MACRAME TUTORIAL

SUSIE NECKLACE

BYCURIOUS CRAFT STUDIO

IN THIS TUTORIAL

MATERIALS & TOOLS 3DIMENSIONS OF FINISHED ITEM 4MACRAME TERMINOLOGY 4KNOTS 5PREPPING THE METALS 6KNOTTING 8- FIRST SECTION 8- SECOND SECTION 13- THIRD SECTION 14

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MATERIALS & TOOLS

Materials:• 13.5 meters of hemp or cotton cord, 1mm thick• Three pieces of metal wire in different lengths: 7cm, 5.5cm, 4cm*• Two jump rings*• 80cm of chain*

In this tutorial you have instructions for attaching two different types of chains. Depending on your chosen chain, you will also need the following:

Thin chain (1mm)• Four bead tips*• Four crimp tubes to fit inside the bead tips• One chain clasp (lobster or spring type)

Ball chain (I use 1,5mm ball chain and clasp) - easiest to work with!• Two bead tips*• Ball chain clasp*

*For the metal items I recommend using gold filled brass or copper.

Tools:• Craft glue with a precision applicator (I recommend and use G-S Hypo Cement Pinpoint Precision glue)• Sharp precision scissors (the ends of the blades need to be sharp)• Macrame board and pins*• Tape measure or a long ruler• Round nose pliers• Wire cutters

*Instead of the macrame board, you can opt to attach the work in the following ways:

• Piece of styrofoam, or any other soft flat surface you can use pins in• Paper holder / clipboard • Any flat surface and a paperweight • And last but not least, my Netflix watching favorite craft style, while lounging on the couch: Attaching the macrame with a safety pin to my trousers, just above the knee.

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DIMENSIONS OF FINISHED ITEM

• Necklace total length 47cm• Pendant length 7cm, width 6cm

MACRAME TERMINOLOGY

Here is a list of basic macrame terms you will want to know for this tutorial:

• Macrame cord: Also referred to as macrame rope or yarn. You will find that macrame cord can come in 3 forms – braided, 3 ply, and single strand. In this tutori-al we will be using 1mm 3 ply hemp or cotton cord. • Working / knotting cords: The cord or set of cords you use to make the actual knots.• Filler cord: The cord or set of cords that your knots wrap around.• Mounting cord: Mounting cords, dowels, and rings are the terms used for the items that you can attach the vertical “knotting” cords to at the very beginning of the work.

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KNOTS

(See the knot guide with pictures & videos of all basic knots)

You will need only the following two knots for this pattern.

Reversed Larks Head (referred to as RLH)

Start off by folding the cord in half and place the loop under the filler cord. Bring the loop around the front and pull your two cord ends through the loop to tighten.

Clove Hitch knot (pictured on the right) (referred to as CH)

Start by using one cord as the filler cord. Take a second cord on the right side of the filler cord under the filler cord (1) and make a loop around the filler cord (2 & 3). Tighten. Using the same working cord, make another loop around the filler cord and pull the end through the loop (4 & 5). Tighten. This is a clove hitch knot (6).

This knot pictured on the right is worked towards right, but it can also be done towards left by mirrowing all the moves.

1 2

3 4

5 6

6

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PREPPING THE METALS

Wires

• Straighten your metal wire by holding the reel in one hand and sliding the wire in between your fingers pulling it away from the reel multiple times. Instead of your fingers, if you have nylon coated pliers you can use those for the pulling. • Cut three pieces, 7cm, 5.5cm, and 4cm. (Note that it’s easier to straighten your wire before you cut it)• Make a loop at both ends of each wire with your round nose pliers or rosary pliers. (1)

Attaching the chain

Now it’s time to create your chain. Depending on the chain type you have chosen, pick one of the two sections below and skip the other one.

Option 1 - Thin chain

In addition to the chain, you will need a clasp, four bead tips, and four crimp tubes.

• Cut your chain to the desired length (for this design I recommend a 80cm chain) and then cut it in half.

Attach the bead tips to the chain - repeat the following section in all four chain ends. (Photo 2-4): VIDEO *TIP: When watching videos through the Youtube link, select the highest quality playback in “Settings” for the best resolution.

• Pass the end of the chain through a bead tip from the rounded side, so that the end is on the concave side of the bead tip.• Place a crimp tube right at the end of your chain and close it tightly around the chain with pliers (Photo 2).• Close the bead tip with pliers over the crimp tube (Photo 3). • Tighten carefully also the hinges (Photo 4).

Attaching the clasp (Photo 5-6):

• Take one of your chain ends and insert the little bead tip “hook” through the hole at the end of your clasp and close/bend the hook into a loop with your pliers

1 2

3 4

5

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(Photo 5).

Create the counterpart for the clasp:

• Take the other chain, and close one of the bead tip hooks, again by bending the hook into a loop with pliers. This time you leave it empty (Photo 6 on previous page has both ends of the chain pictured).

Option 2 - Ball chain

In addition to the chain, you will need a ball chain clasp and two bead tips.

• Cut your chain to the desired length (for this design I recommend a 80cm chain) and cut it in half.• Connect the two chain ends with a ball chain clasp by sliding the last balls of both chains into the clasp (Photo 7). VIDEO

Attaching bead tips to the remaining two cord ends:

• Loop one end of the chain through the little hole on the bead tip (Photo 8) and close the cover over the last ball with a plier (Photo 9). • Tighten carefully also the hinges (Photo 10). • Repeat on the other end of the chain.

Combining wire & chain

• Pass the longest metal wire’s loop through the bead tip hook and close the hook with your pliers (Photo 11). Repeat on the other side.

And now you’re ready to knot!

7 8

9 10

11

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KNOTTING

SECTION 1: Big semicircle

First section is made on the longest metal wire, to which the chain is attached to. Pre-pare your working station either on the macrame board, clipboard, styrofoam, or simply on the table with a paper weight on the chain. If you use a weight on the chain, place a towel or a piece of fabric on top and under the chain to prevent it from getting dam-aged. In picture (Photo A) you see the wire attached with two pins on a styrofoam piece with a paperweight holding down the styrofoam. NOTE: To make knots around the wire, I usually unpin the work from the board for easier knotting.

MOUNTING THE FIRST CORDS - VIDEO*

*Please note: On this video the knots are tied around a cord, but you will tie them around a metal wire.

1. Cut a 60cm cord, fold it in half and grab onto the fold. With the fold, knot a reversed lark’s head in the middle of the metal wire. (B) Tighten the knot.

2. Repeat step 1 with a second cord of 60cm. (C)

KNOTTING ROW 1. - VIDEO*

*Please note: On this video the cords are mounted around another cord , but in your project the cord is replaced by your metal wire.

Starting from the left, number the cords, number 1 being the leftmost cord and number 4 the rightmost cord.

After each row renumber the cords, always starting from left.

3. Take cord number 2 as filler cord and cord 3 as working cord, and knot a clove hitch. Picture (D) is showing the first part of the clove hitch before it’s tightened, and in picture (E) it is tightened. Repeat this, tighten, and your first clove hitch knot is ready! (F)

4. Continue using the same filler cord and make another clove hitch knot using cord 4 as working cord. (G)

A B

C D

E F

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To finish the row, attach the filler cord onto the wire with a reversed lark’s head knot as follows:

5. Loop the filler cord around the wire by first passing it under the wire up and then back down above the wire. Then pass the end of the cord through the loop you just created. (H) Tighten the knot carefully around the wire.

6. Still with the same cord, make another loop around the wire but in the opposite direction: pass the cord above the wire up and back down underneath the wire, and pass it through the loop. (I) Tighten carefully.

Your first row is now finished with a reversed lark’s head knot! (J)

7. Cut a new 60cm cord and fold it in half. This time make one side of the folded cord shorter by approximately 2 cm (K). Slide your hand to the fold and make a reversed lark’s head knot with it on the wire, on the right side of the first row of knots you just created, leaving the longer strand on the left (L). Tighten and slide the knot left to touch the other knots.

NOTE: You could add the new cords always to the left side of the existing knots and knot only from left to right (or always add to the right and knot from right to left), but from a purely aesthetic point of view I prefer alternating the direction of the rows. The reversed side of the necklace will look more symmetrical if you alternate the direction of the rows.

G H

I J

L K

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KNOTTING ROW 2. Renumber the cords from 1 to 6, starting from the left.

8. Take cord number 5 as your filler cord, and make clove hitch knots going left, on cords 4 (M) and 3.

9. Arrived to the middle, add an extra cord here: Cut a 50 cm cord, fold it in half, and make a reverse lark’s head knot on the filler cord (N), using the fold you just created. Tighten the knot carefully and push it against the previous clove hitch knot you made (O).

10. Make two more clove hitch knots on cords 2 and 1.11. To finalize the row, knot a reverse lark’s head on the wire. First under the wire up

and then above the wire down and through the loop (P). Then above the wire up, under the wire down and through the loop (Q). Tighten.

Your second row is finished!

KNOTTING ROW 3. Renumber the cords from 1 to 10.

12. Cut a new 50cm cord and fold it in half. Attach it with a reverse lark’s head knot on the wire on the left, but this time leave the right strand 3 cm longer than the left.

13. Using 2 as your filler cord, clove hitch cords 3-6 (R).14. Repeat instruction number 9 by cutting and adding a new 50 cm cord on the filler

cord. Note: When instructed to “repeat X”, I’m always referring to repeat the corre-sponding instruction number.

15. Clove hitch cords 7-10.16. To end the row repeat 5 and 6 (Photos H & I).

KNOTTING ROW 4. Renumber your cords from the left, from 1 to 14.

17. Cut a new 50 cm cord and add it on the wire to the right with a reverse lark’s head, but leave the left strand 4 cm longer.

18. Using 13 as your filler cord, clove hitch all the cords towards left, from 12 to 1. On this fourth row we do not add an extra cord in the middle.

19. To end the row, repeat 11 (P & Q).

KNOTTING ROW 5. Renumber cords from 1 to 16.

20. Cut a new 50 cm cord and add it on the wire to the left with a reverse lark’s head, leaving the right strand 5 cm longer.

M N

O P

Q R

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21. Using 2 as filler cord, clove hitch cords 3 to 9.22. Repeat 9, but add a cord of 40 cm.23. Clove hitch the remaining cords 10 to 16.24. To end the row repeat 5 and 6 (H & I).

KNOTTING ROW 6. Renumber cords from 1 to 20.

25. Cut a 50 cm cord and add it on the wire to the right with a reverse lark’s head, leav-ing the left strand 6 cm longer.

26. Using 19 as your filler cord, clove hitch all the cords towards left, from 18 to 1. Do not add an extra cord in the middle.

27. To end the row, repeat 11 (P & Q).

KNOTTING ROW 7. Renumber cords from 1 to 22

28. Cut a 40 cm cord and add it on the wire to the left with a reverse lark’s head, but leave the right strand 7 cm longer.

29. Using 2 as filler cord, clove hitch cords 3 to 12.30. Repeat 9, but add a cord of 25 cm.31. Clove hitch the remaining cords 13 to 22.32. To end the row repeat 5 and 6 (H & I).33. Now add the last cord to this half circle. Cut a 40 cm cord, measure 10 cm and fold.

The two strands are now 30 cm and 10 cm. Knot the cord on the wire to the right with a reverse lark’s head, leaving the left strand longer (about 30 cm).

KNOTTING ROW 8. Renumber cords from 1 to 26.

34. Using cord 25 as your filler cord, clove hitch cords 24 to 13.35. Repeat 9, but add a cord of 25 cm.36. Clove hitch cords 12 to 1.37. To end the row, repeat 11 (P & Q).

KNOTTING ROW 9. Renumber cords from 1 to 28.

Do not add a new cord. (There should not be much space left anyway!)

38. Using 1 as filler cord, clove hitch cords 2 to 14.39. Add one closed jump ring onto the filler cord. (S)

40. Clove hitch cords 15 to 26.41. Using both 1 and 28 as filler cords (T), 1 from left and 28 from right, clove hitch cord 27

around them both (U). Tighten 28 through the clove hitch (V). Watch here the video for more visual instructions.

VOILA! Your first semicircle is knotted! You can now take a break and stretch your legs! :)

S T

U V

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FINISHING THE CORD ENDS

You can use any craft / fabric glue that dries transparent and matt. I recommend (and offer as an option with this kit) the G-S Hypo Cement pinpoint precision glue, as it’s won-derfully invisible after it dries and the precision nozzle is just amazing!

42. Add glue inside the knots from both sides (W & X). If you do not have a precision nozzle on your glue, you can try to apply the glue with a toothpick or a needle. I’ve personally never done that, so if you do give it a go, let me know how it works!

You can either continue to knot the next semicircle or wait for the glue to dry to cut the cords before continuing. The G-S Hypo Cement glue is no super glue, so it does take a bit to dry completely. My recommendation is to wait overnight before cutting the cords.

43. After the glue has dried, cut all cords as close as you can to the knots (Y).44. After you cut the cords, use your fingers to “push” in the remaining little cord stubs

to smoothen the edges (Z).

Section 1 is now finished!

W X

Y Z

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SECTION 2: Middle semicircle

MOUNTING THE FIRST CORDS

45. Loop the second longest metal wire through the jump ring. (AA) If you continued working before cutting the cords, you can bend the cords underneath the first section (BB).

46. Cut a 50 cm cord and fold it in half. Knot a reversed lark’s head on the new metal wire so that one part of the knot is on the right of the jump ring and the other side on the left (CC & DD). Tighten.

47. Cut and knot another 50 cm cord with a reversed lark’s head on the left.

The steps that follow are the same as for Section 1, with the only difference the length of the cords and a part of the last row.

KNOTTING ROW 1.

48. Using 2 as filler cord, clove hitch cord numbers 3 and 4.49. To end the row repeat instruction numbers 5 and 6 (H & I).50. Repeat 7, but add a cord of 50 cm on the wire.

KNOTTING ROW 2.

51. Using 5 as filler cord, clove hitch 4 and 3.52. Repeat 9, but add a cord of 40 cm.53. Clove hitch 2 and 1.54. To end the row, repeat 11 (P & Q).55. Repeat 12, but add a cord of 40 cm on the wire.

KNOTTING ROW 3.

56. Using 2 as filler cord, clove hitch 3-6.57. Repeat 9, but add a cord of 40 cm.58. Clove hitch 7-10.59. To end the row repeat 5 and 6 (H & I).60. Repeat 17, but add a cord of 40 cm on the wire.

AA BB

CC DD

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KNOTTING ROW 4.

61. Using 13 as filler cord, clove hitch 12 to 1. No extra cord added.62. To end the row, repeat 11 (P & Q).63. Repeat 20, but add a cord of 40 cm on the wire.

KNOTTING ROW 5.

64. Using 2 as filler cord, clove hitch 3 to 9.65. Repeat 9, but add a cord of 25 cm.66. Clove hitch 10 to 16.67. To end the row repeat 5 and 6 (H & I).68. Cut a 40 cm cord. Fold it so that one strand is 10 cm and the other 30 cm. Knot it on

the wire to the right with a reverse lark’s head leaving the longer strand on the left.

KNOTTING ROW 6.

69. Using 19 as filler cord, clove hitch 18 to 10.70. Repeat 9, but add a cord of 25 cm.71. Clove hitch cords 9 to 1.72. To end the row, repeat 11 (P & Q).

KNOTTING ROW 7.

73. Pass cords 1 and 22 through the little loops at the ends of the wire, from back to front (EE).

74. Using 1 as filler cord, clove hitch cords 2 to 11.75. Add one closed jump ring onto the filler cord. (S)76. Clove hitch cords 12 to 20.77. Using both 1 and 22 as filler cords, clove hitch cord 21 around them both (T & U). Pull

cord 22 through the clove hitch (V).

FINISHING

78. Repeat 42 to glue the knots (W & X).79. Repeat 43 and 44 to cut the cords (Y & Z).

Section 3: Small semicircle

I’m sure it doesn’t come as a surprise that this section follows the same flow as the previ-ous two!

MOUNTING CORDS

80. Loop the shortest metal wire through the jump ring. (AA)81. Repeat 46 and 47 using 40 cm cords (CC & DD).

KNOTTING ROW 1.

82. Using 2 as filler cord, clove hitch 3 and 4.83. To end the row repeat 5 and 6 (H & I).84. Repeat 7, but add a cord of 40 cm on the wire.

KNOTTING ROW 2.

85. Using 5 as filler cord, clove hitch 4 and 3.86. Repeat 9, but add a cord of 30 cm.87. Clove hitch 2 and 1.88. To end the row, repeat 11 (P & Q).89. Repeat 12, but add a cord of 30 cm on the wire.

EE

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KNOTTING ROW 3.

90. Using 2 as filler cord, clove hitch 3-6.91. Repeat 9, but add a cord of 25 cm.92. Clove hitch 7-10.93. To end the row repeat 5 and 6 (H & I).94. Cut a 30 cm cord. Fold it so that one strand is 10 cm and the other 20 cm. Knot it

on the wire to the right with a reverse lark’s head leaving the longer strand on the left.

KNOTTING ROW 4.

95. Using 13 as filler cord, clove hitch cords 12 to 7.96. Repeat 9, but add a cord of 25 cm. (You can also skip this knot if there is too little

space for it)97. Clove hitch cords 6 to 1.98. To end the row, repeat 11 (P & Q).

KNOTTING ROW 5.

99. Pass cords 1 and 16 through the little loops at the ends of the wire, from back to front. (EE)

100. Using 1 as your filler cord, clove hitch cords 2 to 14.101. Using both 1 and 16 as filler cords, clove hitch cord 15 around them both (T & U). Pull

cord 16 through the clove hitch (V)

FINISHING 102. Repeat 42 to glue the knots (W & X).103. Repeat 43 and 44 to cut the cords (Y & Z).

FINISHED!

Well done! I hope you enjoyed creating this design!

I would love to see your creations, so if you feel like it, please share them with me on Instagram or Facebook. I also invite you to join my Facebook Macrame Makers Club where you can also ask for advice and share your successes!

Cheers,Tuija

PS. Don’t forget to get in touch if you have any questions, doubts, or if you notice any mis-takes in this pattern: hello@curiouscraftstudio.com

For more tutorials, kits, and other macrame fun, please visit:WWW.CURIOUSCRAFTSTUDIO.COM