Lynette Hinings-Marshall on Australia's Mornington Peninsula

8/14/2019 Lynette Hinings-Marshall on Australia's Mornington Peninsula

1/12


2/12

The Mornington Peninsula is sensational. Its chicbeach front cafes, golf courses, spas, nat ional parks,beaches, restaurants, and vineyards remilliscent ofTuscany entice all who are intent upon indulging in someof the finer things in life.The Peninsula, as it IS affectionately known by thelocals, is an hou(s drive south of Melbourne. It separatestwo bays Port Phillip on the west and Western Port on theeast. To the south a stretch of water called Bass Straitseparates it from Tasmania. The next closest land massto the Peninsula is the Antarctic, some 2,500 kilometers[1,550 miles] away. Despite its proximity to the Antarctic,the Peninsula enJoys a mild Mediterranean climateperfect for producing pinot noir and chardonnay winesThe Peninsula can be driven top to bottom in less than anhour and from coast to coast in 20 minutes. Twenty-fivebeaches glistening like a necklace encircle the190kilometers of coastline so you are sure to find one that isperfect for you. Knovvn internationally for its wineries, thePeninsula IS a maritime wine area and is classified as acool climate region. There are over 200 vineyards, with 60types of wine, and more than 60 cellar doors. It is the sortof place where you want to stroll rather than stride andyou definitely need to linger over an afternoon tea oflavender scones, with homemade strawberry jam andwickedly rich, local cream.

Choices of beaches range from the gentle waves of theMount Eliza beach where Ava Gardner and Gregory Peckfilmed On the Beach in 1959 to the more untamed surfbeaches of Western Port If you enjoy fishing you canthrow out a line from dozens of vantage points around thecoast or join a fishing charter boat. Snapper, Whiting,Flathead, Reef fish and Shark proliferate In the watersand all charters include the essential gear. If you prefersailing or scuba diving or swimming with the dolphins andseals, these water activities are available too.

The ocean also offers visual attractions humpbackwhales making their Journey up from the Antarctic watersin the winter months of June to August, the hand-feedingof the giant stingray at Mornington pier, or the dolphins atplay which, thanks to the Hastings Dolphin ResearchInstitute are protected. It is the amazing variety ofattractions and lifestyle that draws In both tourists andnew residents.

You may prefer to spend the day in a soothing thermalpool followed by a relaxing, rhythmic body massageinspired by traditional Aboriginal techniques. Facialtreatments based on Aboriginal knowledge of nativeplants will leave you feeling wholesomely scrubbed anddeliciously dozy. This indulgent haven is set among nativegum trees amid the naturally heated and healing mineralwaters of the Peninsula Hot Springs Spa. If you are adevotee of hot rock massage they can do that too. If youprefer a 'Dead Sea Mineral Mud massage,' these areavailable at Red Hill Spa and there is even aWomensonl{ Spa Retreat at Mizu on Olive(s Hill

The Peninsula is especially known for its wines. InFebruary there is the International Pinot Noir Celebration.FollOWing that is the festive Mornlngton PeninsulaHarvest to Table Festival which is eleven lazy days ofsipping and sampling until the end of Victoria's Labor Daylong weekend in March This is the time when seafoodplatters, game, local cheeses, raspberries and strawberries and antipasto platters with fresh garden produceabound all over the Peninsula Headliner events includethe Red Hill Long Lunch where chefs from a dozenwineries work and collaborate to tempt your palate.Choose their concoctions from a table set In thewoodlands of Ashcombe Maze. Another not-to-be-missedevent is the Madhatters Pinot Party at Hickenbotham inDromana In their own words this involves the wearing ofhats, as well as rabbits, roses, pinot noir and a long

Montalto Winery


3/12

MO/l/a//o Winery reS/(IIIrlnt

entertaining storybook lunch. If you are from the NorthernHemisphere and prefer to holiday during your summermonths you are in luck as it is June when the Peninsula'sWinter Wine Weekend brings together wines from morethan 40 wineries for a massive tastings day on Saturdaywith special events at numerous wineries for theremainder of the weekend. And if you want to party on,there is the Winter Wine Passport event. All you need is

National GolfClub

five stamps in your passport and you are eligible for the$3,000 wine cellar prize.I did not have time to visit all the wineries but managedto speak with John Mitchell, owner of Montalto Vineyardand Olive Grove in Red Hill South. Montalto is regularlylisted in epicurean magazines and tourism magazines asthe winery not to miss on the Peninsula. In his own words,the kernel of an idea for a vineyard began to develop when


4/12

the Mitchell family lived in he U.K. during the 1980sSummer holidays were spent In the South of Francewhere John and Wendy Mitchell became smitten with thevineyards rolling down the hills to the Mediterranean.Here in the afternoon they found the generosity of spritand joie de vivre as infectious as their glass of rose l Afterreturning to Australia the Mitchell's started thinkingabout planting some vines at their holiday house on thePeninsula John undertook a short

many active pursuits for those wanting to maintain ahealthy balance. Each village on the Peninsula has one ormore tennis clubs which welcomes visitors, and then, ofcourse, there IS golf. As a golfing destination, theMornlngton Peninsula is favorably compared toCalifornia's Monterey Coast and to Scotland's Fifebecause of the outstanding quality of its courses and thesheer number of them. 15 clubs with 19 courses. But it is

the superb natural qualities and viewsviticultural course and was hooked. from the courses that bring theAfter further study they decided to buy a accolades. Leading golf coursevineyard site to produce their ovvn label designers including Robert Trent Jones,Montalto evolved from a love of nature, Jr., Ross Perrett, Tony Cashmore, Greggrowth, people and environ-ment Joined Norman and Torn Doak have al lwith a desire to produce the best designed golf courses here Whateverpossible from the land of which they your preference and standard of play,were now caretakers. Their restaurant you will find a suitable course here.is a striking and harmo-nious building If your idea of active pursuits is a goodfeaturing rammed earth walls, timber walk you are in luck, With 25,000frames and rough-hewn floor boards to Koala 011 the P Ilillsula hectares of spectacular national parksblur the edges and bring the beauty of on the Peninsula there is a leisurely orthe outside into the building Floor to rigorous walk to suit everybody. There isceiling windows take advantage of the the 2-kilometer boardwalk at the Boneobreathtaking rural outlook of vines, olive Maze and Wetlands that winds throughgroves, and sculptures that lead down native tea trees to the bird hide andto picturesque lakes, wetlands and eventually to the large maze. Popularpasture, all with a hint of the ocean as birds on the Peninsula are the colorfulbackdrop. A strong community spirit rosellas, galahs, kookaburras andwas the genesis of the Montalto annual cheeky magpies If you prefer asculpture award with prize money of windswept walk, you must visit the Cape$20,000. Neil Williams the curator sites Schanck lighthouse. From here you can

Rosella chathe sculptures creatively throughout the50-acre estate to create a picturesqueoutdoor gallery that embraces al laspects of the vineyard

I then visited the Morning Star Estate winery in MountEliza because it was January and I wanted to see theshowcase 70,000 roses in bloom Recognized as one ofthe oldest Vineyards on the Mornington Peninsula, it wasestablished in 1932 by the Franciscan order and produceschardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir as well as acabernet sauvignon I wonder if Francis Gillet, a Londonerwho built the distinctive Victorian mansion in 1867,envisioned gasps of delight from diners at the openterrace restaurant as a beautiful young bride walks a redcarpet to the sunken garden nd rose arbor to pledge hervows against the panoramic backdrop of Port Phillip Bay.

In addition to all the fine wines and dining there are

walk toward the Gunnamatta EquestrianCenter and Trail Rides or head In theopposite direction toward the Coolart

Wetlands. Serious walkers and cyclists will want toInclude Point Nepean, the southernmost point of thePeninsula, to explore historic tunnels, fortifications and aquarantine station that provides a visual history of earlysettlement. Tragically, it was here in 1967 that theAustralian Prime Minister Harold Holt went swimming.He was 59 \.vhen he plunged into the surf. He disappearedfrom view and was never seen again. You can visit thememorial erected to the prime minister, but bring yourbathers, because, in typical Australian irony, it is a publicswimming pool

So what do you do after all this outdoor activity? Lunchperhaps? First you choose your village. If you want tolunch with the smart and famous then head to Portsea,


5/12


6/12


7/12

Morning Star E.Hafe Winery


8/12

the holiday playground of Australia's rich and powerfulesta llshment. The Po tsea Hotel is the place if you areon your way home from walking Point N pe bUl if youwant something more elegant the Peppers Delgany willfeel like you are dining in a castle. Just ten minutes no thof Portsea is my perso al favorite, Sorrento. Set around ahalf-moon bay below a main street of beautiful 01 19"century limestone shop fronts and cafes you can enjoyfreshly caught fish from the pier restaurant or alk up thehill to dine el fresco from a choice of cafes all offerinchoice local produce. It is here at Sorrento that you cansWim with the dolphins or sail on the car ferry toQueenscliff just cross the heads on the opposite side ofPort Phillip Bay. If your idea of a perfect lunch is at awinery you may want to try the seared kangaroo with chiliinfused beetroot and horseradish at Max's at Red Hill orperhaps a mushroom cappuccino at Jill's of MoorooducEstate, or the chorizo paelt filled calamari at ParingaEstate.

If you have an appetite for art you will be well served on

the Peninsula The beautiful landscape and eclecticlifestyle has attracted m ny accomplished artists whohave ade the Peninsula both their home and theirgallery. Po sibly the most famous is the McClellandGallery and Sculpt re Park while the Tuscan-inspiredManyung Gallery at Mount Eliza shows around 200 worksIn ever-changing exhibitions The Peninsula is particularlyfortunate to be the home of Internationally-known arti IJohn Anderson It is here on his five-acre prop rtyoverloo 109 the sea at Cape Schanck that he walks to hisseparate studio each day, Here he creates is sensualan almost gothic canvasses, his love of chiaroscuro selfevident. In his own words A derson explains, "I like tomake paintings that show the puzzle of eXistenceSomething that when people look at it they say, yes I havefelt that" I felt privileged when he invited me to his studioand came away entranced and a little over-whelmed byhis I sh, vivacious canvasses I am not sure I will ver beable to afford John Anderson painting but it is definitelyhigh on my wish list

Pcninsu[lI HoI Springs Spa


9/12


10/12


11/12

Local MarkelFlil1den


12/12

In addition to serious arllhere are arts and crafts 10 beenjoyed at wo denul places such as the glass gallery ofEileen Gordon where you can watch the glassblowers atwork, and Lhe Tyabb Packing House here you c nbrowse for hours through Australia's largest collection ofantiques and collectibles. For shopping, head to MountEliza's sophisticated boutiques where you Will be able Latryon top Australian labels, or trawl the busier MainStreet omington which orfers ev rything from homewares La fashion items.

Fi ally, few things are more enjoyable than strollingaround a local market and at any of the communitymarkets on the Peninsula you can browse through morethan hundred stalls before deciding whether you want totake home a jar of superb jam or pickle, cheeses, coffees,chocolates, homemade cakes, teas, 0 fresh fruit andvegetables. You will also want to visit one of the abundantorchards and berry farms where boutique producerscreate fantastic olive oils, cheeses and Jams. You can takea bucket and pick your own raspberries, cherries or

strawberries or just sit and enjoy Devonshire te Withstrawberries fres from the orchard. Other farm gates onthe Peninsula include organic vegetables, fresh duckeggs, hydropOniCs tomatoes, nectarines, pears, organictrout and salmon and fresh native flowers.So how long should you spend at the MornlngtonPeninsula? A serious wine buff could easily devote a weekto Visiting cellar doors. Golfers should allow at least aweek to play several of the courses. Those who want toindulge would need a week to drift between the spas anda dozen 0 so of the winery restaurant an cafes.Outdoor types can walk 20 kilometers on just one baywalk and there are still the water sports, fishing, scubadiving, and horseback rides to consider So, how longshould you stay? You decide; but be prepared that it maynot be Lon enough. fJ

Pel/il/wlo Olil l t ry Road

Documents

Lynette Hinings-Marshall on Australia's Mornington Peninsula