Leh Guide - DOW

8/21/2019 Leh Guide - DOW

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Ladakh Travel Guide – DOW

1. Srinagar – Leh Highway | How to Plan a Journey ....................................................................................... 2 a) Season to Travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway ................................................................................ 2

b) Modes of Travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway .................................................................................. 2 c) Planning Night Stay or Accommodation on Srinagar – Leh Highway ............................................. 4

d) Sightseeing on Srinagar – Leh Highway ......................................................................................... 5

e) List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Srinagar – Leh Highway ............................................. 5 f) Acclimatization and its importance on Srinagar – Leh Highway ..................................................... 6 g) Fuel or Petrol Pumps on Srinagar – Leh Highway .......................................................................... 6 h) ATMs on Srinagar – Leh Highway .................................................................................................. 6

i) Places on Srinagar – Leh Highway with their Distances ................................................................. 6 j) Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Srinagar – Leh Highway ...................................... 7

2. Manali Leh Highway | How to Plan a Journey ............................................................................................. 8 a) Season to travel on Manali – Leh Highway ..................................................................................... 8 b) Modes of travel on Manali – Leh Highway ...................................................................................... 9

c) Planning Night Stay or Accommodation on Manali – Leh Highway .............................................. 10 d) List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Manali – Leh Highway .............................................. 12

e) Acclimatization and its importance on Manali – Leh Highway ...................................................... 12 f) Fuel or Petrol Pump on Manali – Leh Highway ............................................................................. 12

g) ATM on Manali – Leh Highway ..................................................................................................... 12 h) Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Manali – Leh Highway ....................................... 13

3. Places on Manali – Leh Highway | A Detailed Description ........................................................................ 14

4.

Leh, Ladakh | Local Sightseeing and Travel Guide ................................................................................... 21

5. Sham Valley Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide ............................................................................... 23

6. Nubra Valley Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide ............................................................................... 25 a) Season for Traveling to Nubra Valley – Ladakh ........................................................................... 25

b) How to Reach Nubra Valley – Ladakh .......................................................................................... 25 c) Suggested Itinerary for Nubra Valley – Ladakh ............................................................................ 26

d) Places to visit in Nubra Valley – Ladakh ....................................................................................... 26 e) Other Important Information for Nubra Valley ............................................................................... 26

7. Pangong Tso Lake Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide ..................................................................... 28 a) Season for Traveling to Pangong Tso Lake – Ladakh .................................................................. 28 b) How to Reach Pangong Tso Lake – Ladakh ................................................................................ 28

c) Suggested Itinerary for Pangong Tso Lake – Ladakh ................................................................... 30 d) Other Important Information for Pangong Tso .............................................................................. 30

8.

Tso Moriri Lake Ladakh | Sightseeing and Travel Guide .......................................................................... 31

a) Season for Traveling to Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh ....................................................................... 31

b) How to Reach Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh ...................................................................................... 31 c) Suggested Itinerary for Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh ........................................................................ 32

d) Other Important Information for Tso Moriri Lake ........................................................................... 33

9.

Fuel Availability In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips ....................................................................... 34

10. Routes and Road Conditions In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips .................................................. 35

11. Acute Mountain Sickness and Importance of Acclimatization ................................................................... 38

12. List of things to carry when you go on trip ................................................................................................. 41


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1. Srinagar – Leh Highway | How to Plan a Journey

The 434 KM long Srinagar – Leh Highway is almost like a lifeline in the form of road connectivity between Leh – Ladakh and rest of India via Kashmir Valley. Srinagar – Leh Highway also known as National Highway – 1D(NH – 1D) is the most reliable and one of the only two ways to reach Leh – Ladakh by road, the other onebeing Manali – Leh Highway. Generally, travellers or adventure lovers from all over world loves or dreams toundertake this road trip of their life time by covering both routes connecting Leh – Ladakh to rest of India i.e. alifetime experience road trip traversing Srinagar – Leh – Manali Highways. Apart from being famous for its

enchanting views, this highway holds a strategic importance for India and being close to LOC, you see theheavy army presence on it when you travel through Srinagar – Leh Highway.

The highway runs alongside the Indus River and through some extremely harsh and barren terrain includingthe three high mountain passes named Zozi La (3528 Mtrs), Namki La (3815 Mtrs) and Fotu La (4108 Mtrs).In any case, Srinagar – Leh highway offers some breathtaking landscapes ornamented by various historicaland cultural constructions which are just like a dream treat for any traveller driving/riding through Srinagar – Leh Highway.

Generally, people travelling or flying directly to Leh – Ladakh suffers from acute mountain sickness as Leh(3500 Mtrs) due to sudden disturbance of altitude with which the body is adapted. However, Srinagar – Lehhighway provides a gradual ascent to travellers thus helps them fight any chances of acute mountain sickness(AMS) caused due to high altitudes and let them enjoy the beautiful vistas in relaxed manner.

a) Season to Travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway

The 434 KM long Srinagar Highway generally remains closed for about 6 months in an year starting fromNovember to May due to heavy snowfall on the mountain passes mainly Zozi La pass. Zozi La pass startsreceiving snowfall in the month of November and then any day of November (generally 15th Novemberofficially) the highway ceases to close officially as it becomes extremely difficult for BRO to clear the snow.Then, again as the winter months resides, the BRO guys begins the snow clearance process in spring seasonthat is in March and repair the damaged roads, bridges and other parts of the highway. Finally, aftercompleting this rigorous job of snow clearance and fixing the roads, bridges etc BRO announces the openingof Srinagar – Leh Highway generally around mid – May or by June first week.

Hence, the best season to travel Srinagar – Leh Highway is between June to October. In May, if the highwaygets open then generally the roads are in really bad shape and only improves as the season progress withconstant repair work conducted by BRO. By end of June as the road condition stabilizes the monsoon comesto the party in July and creates havoc in lower hills connecting Srinagar to Jammu and further to other parts ofIndia. The landslides are almost inevitable in monsoon season which causes road blockages ever now andthen. The Amarnath Yatra being in full flow in July – August, do expect heavy traffic and rush from Jammu – Srinagar – Kargil parts of highway. Even the dominance of armed forces also increase in July – August owingto the security of pilgrims of Amarnath Yatra.

It is almost a nightmare to drive through Zozi La Pass in July – August especially when it’s raining or hasrained previous days but at any day better than Rohtang Pass on Manali – Leh Highway which becomes morethan hell during monsoon season. One should always avoid Srinagar – Leh Highway during days alongsideIndependence Day in India i.e. 15th August which is when the bandhs and strikes gets more active. As theend of August approach, the Amarnath Yatra is over and monsoon starts to reside from Northern India, theconditions improve much more to travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway and in September it could be called asbest time to travel but you will not find any snow of course. Even in August and late July snow will be hard totouch except few patches on Zozi La pass.Since, the other side of Zozila Pass mainly Kargil onwards comes under rain shadow area where only the drywinds of monsoon reach. So, in July – August you need to tackle the monsoon rains and their havoc in lowerhills only including Jammu, Srinagar, Zozi La pass i.e. till you reach Kargil where there is very little rain duringthese months.

Throughout the season, you need to let pass large convoys of army trucks as army also stock up requiredmaterials in Leh – Ladakh through Srinagar – Leh road majorly. This may cause delay of few hours every nowand then in your entire journey on Srinagar – Leh highway.

b) Modes of Travel on Srinagar –

Leh Highway

Private Vehicles i.e. Cars and Bikes | Self Drive or Ride to Ladakh


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Most people prefer to self drive or self ride to Ladakh by their own car or own bike and some also prefer to selfdrive or self ride to Ladakh by hiring a bike or car. In any case, hired car/bike or personal car/bike, idea is tolive the passion of driving or riding through one of the toughest and adventurous terrains accessible in India.You can take your own or rented, car or bike to Ladakh but one must be careful while driving or riding throughslushy roads, snow and water crossing or nallas. Also, it is always handy to learn little maintenance tasks ofyour vehicle prior to the start of this comparatively less arduous journey than Manali – Leh Highway.

For cars, although an SUV/MUV is good to have and a 4WD SUV will definitely help but I have seen

hatchbacks (including Altos and Nano) and sedans doing good enough job on Srinagar –

Leh Highway thanon Manali – Leh Highway. If you want to try your sedan or hatch back drive to Ladakh then Srinagar – LehHighway is better bet when compared to taking a sedan or hatch from Manali – Leh Highway. However like onManali – Leh Highway, with sedans / hatchbacks one must drive with extra care and caution even at Srinagar

– Leh Highway and especially around Zozila pass (ascend and descend both).

You get less number of challenges on Srinagar – Leh Highway as compared to Manali – Leh Highway withonly major hurdle being Zozila Pass. However even then, whenever you are in doubt, always step out of yourcar, walk down the path, inspect with your foot and plan the path of exit before crossing a dangerous landslideor water crossing on your vehicle. You can also park aside and see how others are crossing the risky sectionto plan your route of escape. In deep water crossings try to maintain the momentum without any half clutchmeasures and complete the entire stretch in one go only. Similarly, in slush stretches do not force the issuerather keep the smooth momentum with required speed to pass you through, without half clutch measures. Dokeep an eye on the direction of the vehicle too. If you get stuck in slush then try to back and forth yourvehicles to get out of the stuck position. It is always handy to ask your fellow co-travellers to get out of the carand push the vehicle from behind incase the car is struggling to pass through the slush or water crossingstretch.

Basic toolkit, screw driver set, small hammer, puncture repair kit, iron rod, two or three ―2 ltr‖ empty bottles ofpepsi / coke / limca etc to carry extra petrol or diesel (jerry cans will leak, cold drink bottles do not leak),funnel, towing rope, spare tube (must for bikes), elfy or fevi quick (2-3 sachets), jump start cables/wires, M-seal to prevent leakage etc. were among the few things which I carried along on my trip to Ladakh. Also, donot forget to get your vehicle (car/bike) serviced about 2-3 weeks before the start of the Ladakh journey. Thiswill ensure that you have proper time in advance to test your serviced vehicle and get fixed any hitches thatmay have been introduced in that service

Hiring a Private Taxi | Taxi Number or Private Number

All taxis (except Ladakh registration number) having taxi number or tourist permits number plates are onlyallowed for a drop in Leh – Ladakh. As per the taxi union rules only taxis with Ladakh number are only allowedto roam in the Ladakh region for sightseeing purposes. If you want to travel within Leh – Ladakh in yourprivate taxi hired from a place other than Ladakh then in that case you need to hire a taxi with private numberplate only. However, in the latter case be ready for some queries by the local taxi drivers in Ladakh or policeconstables on your route. You need to ensure everyone interrogating with you that the vehicles is not hired.

If you can get hold of some taxi driver in Ladakh then hire that taxi only else go to Kargil first and change taxifrom there. From Kargil, the Ladakh taxi driver can pick you and you will have the advantage to cover thesightseeing places en-route Leh on Srinagar – Leh Highway like Alchi, Basgo, Likir etc before you reach Leh.

If that is not your plan then hire a direct taxi from Srinagar to Leh but with taxi hired with Srinagar numberplate you will not be able to do sightseeing en-route especially Sham Valley, as far as I know.

To hire a taxi, go directly to Srinagar taxi stand and bargain hard with the local drivers only, for a drop to Leh.Do not involve any tour operator or hotel staff at any stage. The local taxi drivers will charge about Rs 1200-1500 extra for a planned night halt on the way to Leh. The charges are close to Rs 9000 to Rs 12000 for adrop to Leh from Srinagar with one night halt, depending on your bargaining power, tourist rush and the timeof the year you are visiting.

Srinagar – Leh Bus Service, JK SRTC and Others | Economical mode of travel

JK SRTC ply buses on Srinagar – Leh Highway which are available at Srinagar Bus Stand near Lal Chowkand near Polo Ground in Leh. I guess JK SRTC have both standard as well as semi-deluxe buses which run

Srinagar – Leh Highway with cost of about Rs 500 – Rs 600 for Standard bus and Rs 600 – Rs 700 for semi-deluxe types. There are also few private bus operators running semi-deluxe buses between Srinagar – Lehwho charge about Rs 800 – Rs 900 per seat.

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These buses generally stop at Kargil for the night and Sonamarg for tea and snacks. The JK SRTC busesmay not be as comfortable though but comfort comes with the price. The buses leaves Srinagar around 5 AMand Leh around 6 AM, I guess.

Shared Taxi | A Cannon ball run

You can also buy yourself a seat in a shared taxi which runs every mid-night from Srinagar and reaches Lehon next evening without any night halt. In the same way, shared taxis are run from Leh to Srinagar as well.

You need to pay about Rs 1200 to Rs 1500 per person for a drop to Leh from Srinagar or a drop to Srinagarfrom Leh. Of course, since it is shared with 7-8 other people plus the driver and completes the back brakingcannon ball run of Srinagar – Leh in 16-18 hours, you can imagine the level of comfort yourself. This one isthe second cheapest mode of travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway but mind you, it could be the toughest on thebody too.

Also, not staying at Kargil will mean less acclimatization which may make you feel a bit sick in the first fewdays when you reach Leh.

Other travel modes

You can also get in touch with some travel agent or taxi union in Srinagar who also runs their private buses orTempo Travellers on Srinagar – Leh Highway.

c) Planning Night Stay or Accommodation on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Based on my experience, you can opt to plan a journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway in one of the followingways –

Two Day Journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway

The options of stay or accommodation are very limited on Manali – Leh Highway due to the limitedcivilization but on the Srinagar – Leh Highway you get the respite as there are plenty of civilized placesenroute and you get to find accommodation either one or the other place. You will find accommodation option

ever 70-80 odd KMs on an average. But still, a two day journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway is the mostcommon among all travellers as you tend to see the beauty in relaxing manner as well as you help your bodyto acclimatize to the altitude of Leh. Private Taxis and buses run by JK SRTC also cover the Srinagar – LehHighway in two days with night halt at Kargil. Mostly, people break up the journey on Srinagar – Leh Highwayin the following ways over a span of two days -Srinagar – Kargil / Drass (Day 1) and Kargil / Drass – Leh (Day 2)

This option is mostly preferred by people as it evenly distributes the travel time of the entire journey in twodays. However, on the second day, you need to leave early in the morning if you are interested to stop atevery other point to take pictures and still reach Leh in time :).

Personally, out of Kargil or Drass you shall prefer to stay at Kargil due to varied options of accommodationavailable at Kargil. But, many a times finding vegetarian food becomes difficult in Kargil in the late evening

and hence, you can opt to stay at Drass which does offer a few accommodation options. The distancebetween Drass – Kargil is about 60 KMs only which means about 2 hours of more travel time on next day.

If you are a vegetarian then most likely, what you can do is that if you are reaching Drass by about eveningthen it’s good to take your dinner there and reach Kargil by the late evening or early night time. May be a teaor coffee with some biscuits will make you feel good for rest of the night. It will surely help rather than sleeping

without vegetarian food due its unavailability in Kargil

One Day Journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Srinagar – Leh (Day 1)

This option of completing the journey of Srinagar – Leh in single day is mostly common among local people or

people who are in high rush and is least recommended if you want to enjoy your travel. Shared taxis are thepreferred way to avail this option. Although, it could be the cheapest or time saving for you but this backbraking, cannon ball run of 15-16 Hrs with least stoppages does put a heavy toll on the body as well as themind of an average traveller. This long journey is extremely tiring and by traversing through the varied amount

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of altitudes in a single day, you are definitely running a risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS) or some severeheadaches and for initial days spent in Leh. Of course, this is true incase you have not stayed overnight inGulmarg or Pahalgam or Sonamarg on previous nights of your tour. Doing in a single day, may certainly killthe joy of the journey.

Three Day Journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Srinagar – Kargil/Drass (Day 1) and Kargil/Drass – Lamayuru/Alchi (Day 2) and Lamayuru/Alchi – Leh (Day 3)

Well, by extending the journey of Srinagar – Leh Highway in three days, you give yourself a chance to explorethe sightseeing places en-route thoroughly. There are many tourist destinations in Ladakh region which aresituated on Srinagar – Leh Highway and requires time if you really wish to explore them. Hence, by extendingthe journey with one day you give yourself ample of time to explore these tourist places before you reach Leh.For more details on sightseeing refer section: Sightseeing on Srinagar – Leh Highway, below in the article.

Very few people follow this option due to lack of time and to save money. If these two things have no place forconsideration at your grounds then I will say just go with it and you will make your journey on Srinagar – LehHighway much more than a memorable experience :). I guess the comparison of night halts (Drass/Kargil) isalready done in first option, so opt as per your taste.

This option will mostly be available, if you are travelling by your own vehicle. To be very frank, this option isnot even available if you are hiring a private Srinagar registered taxi as well because Srinagar registered taxiare not allowed for local sightseeing in Ladakh region especially Sham Valley where all these tourist placesare present. In such a case you need to book a taxi to Kargil first from Srinagar and then hire yourself a taxifrom Kargil to Leh or you need to hire a Ladakh registered number taxi. Confirm in advance from the driver ifhe will do sightseeing for Sham Valley before booking it. Then, in next two days after covering all touristdestinations including Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Redzong, Alchi, Likir, Sham Valley etc on the route you can reachLeh.

Staying one night at Alchi, which is lower in altitude than Leh, also make sure that your body is much moreacclimatized to the altitude of Leh and you enjoy a lot better conditions once you reach Leh after a stay atKargil and Alchi on previous nights.

Alternate Route to Leh from Kargil via Batalik and Dah

There exist an alternate route to reach Leh once you reach Kargil which is a bit more scenic than the usualroute. The usual route goes like Kargil – Mulbekh – Lamayuru – Leh and the alternate, less used route goeslike Kargil – Batalik – Dah – Skurbuchan – Leh.

Please make a note that the route via Batalik requires you to get the Inner Line Permits from either DCOffice Kargil or DC Office Leh. So, I will advise that you go to Leh from Kargil via Lamayuru following theusual route and then you can come back to Kargil via Batalik after getting the permits from Leh DC office atthe time you apply permits for Ladakh sightseeing places like Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso etc. If you are

returning via Manali – Leh Highway then you need to take permits from Kargil DC Office to go via Batalik routeand thereby miss the usual route to Leh which goes via Lamayuru.

d) Sightseeing on Srinagar –

Leh Highway

Well, while traversing this beautiful road of Srinagar – Leh Highway you also give yourself a chance to visit thefollowing places either on the route or with little diversions from the route -Maitrey at Mulbek, Lamayuru Monastery, Lunar Landscape, Redzong / Rizong Monastery, Alchi Monastery,Likir Monastery, Basgo Palace, Confluence at Nimmu, Magnetic Hills, Pathar Sahib Gurudwara, PhyangMonastery, Spituk Monastery.

You need to give yourself time to explore these places especially Lamayuru, Alchi and Likir monasteries.Hence, if you plan to cover these sightseeing places either while going towards Leh from Srinagar or towardsSrinagar from Leh, then give yourself at least 3 days to cover the entire Srinagar – Leh route.

e) List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Srinagar – Leh Highway is much better than Manali – Leh Highway in terms of accommodation options itoffers and one can find decent place to stay within 125 odd KMs at max. At some places like Mulbekh,Sonamarg, Drass etc the accommodation options could be very limited and basic guest house / home stay

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types while places like Kargil, Lamayuru does offer varied amount of accommodation options. So, it alwaysbetter to break the journey at Kargil or Lamayuru but of course there are not much worries for places of stayon Srinagar – Leh Highway than on Manali – Leh Highway. You can also take diversion to the towns of Alchi /Likir for a stay there as well. Of course you will find basic home stay types of accommodation at both Alchi /Likir but it would be a worthwhile experience in any case. Here is the breakup of accommodation optionsavailable on Srinagar – Leh Highway with distances –

Srinagar – Sonamarg (80 KMs) | Decent number of accommodation options available at Sonamarg

Sonamarg – Drass (65 KMs) | Decent number of accommodation options available at Drass Drass – Kargil (55 KMs) | Many accommodation options available at Kargil Kargil – Mulbekh (40 KMs) | Few basic / home stay accommodation options available at Mulbekh Mulbekh – Lamayuru (70 KMs) | Decent number of accommodation options available at Lamayuru Lamayuru – Alchi / Likir (55 – 65 KMs / 65 – 75 KMs) | Few basic / home stay accommodation options

available at Alchi / Likir Lamayuru – Leh (125 KMs) | Many accommodation options available at Leh Alchi / Likir – Leh ( 65 KM / 55 KMs) | Many accommodation options available at Leh

Please keep in mind that Alchi and Likir are not exactly on Srinagar – Leh Highway and you need to takediversions near Sasapol, I guess, for either of them. The distance between Alchi – Likir is about 18 – 20 KMsonly.

f) Acclimatization and its importance on Srinagar –

Leh Highway

Unlike Manali – Leh Highway, the journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway goes through gradual increase inaltitude thereby helping our body to get acclimatized properly for the altitude of Leh. That is why going throughSrinagar – Leh Highway is always preferred for road trip to Ladakh than going via Manali – Leh Highway. Bygoing to Leh – Ladakh from Srinagar – Leh Highway, one gives himself a chance to properly acclimatize tothe high altitudes thereby decreasing the chances of being hit by AMS. In the return leg, you can go via Leh – Manali Highway so that your body is properly acclimatized by the time you under take the varied high altitudeson that route. This helps you enjoy the Manali – Leh highway in a better way as well.

Having said that even on Srinagar – Leh Highway it’s always good that you take little precautions to furtherminimize the effects of high altitude sickness. Here are some tips which will help acclimatizing the body faster

Try to cover the Srinagar – Leh journey in two days with a night halt at Kargil most preferably. Keep your body properly hydrated. Avoid sleeping at high altitudes. Avoid over exertion. Avoid tobacco and smoking and alcohol and other depressant drugs. Keep your body warm and eat lots of carbohydrates. Avoid sleep during the day. Sleep in upright position, if possible. Carry preventive medicines for AMS. Immediately descend, if symptoms increase.

g) Fuel or Petrol Pumps on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Again, unlike Manali – Leh Highway, it is easy to find fuel or petrol on Srinagar – Leh Highway. One can getfuel or petrol on Srinagar Leh Highway at: Srinagar, Kangan, Sonamarg, Kargil, Mulbekh, Wakha, Khaltsi, Leh

h) ATMs on Srinagar – Leh Highway

As per my knowledge there are ATMS available at Ganderbal, Drass, Kargil apart from Leh and Srinagar ATMs. I guess you should carry enough cash with you in Ladakh because ATMs at these limited places canrun out of money or become un-operational at any day or time.

i) Places on Srinagar – Leh Highway with their Distances

Generally, the places of on Srinagar – Leh Highway majorly goes like Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass

– Kargil – Mulbekh – Namika La – Fotu La – Lamayuru – Khaltsi – Sasapol – Nimmu – Leh and theapproximate distances between these places is shown below briefly - Srinagar – Sonamarg (80 KMs) Sonamarg – Drass (65 KMs)


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Drass – Kargil (55 KMs) Kargil – Mulbekh (40 KMs) Mulbekh – Lamayuru (70 KMs) Lamayuru – Leh (125 KMs)

j) Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Facility Places

Accommodations /Stay Options

Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil (Many options), Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi

Food / Beverages Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil (Many options), Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi

Diesel / Petrol Pumps Mangan, Sonamarg, Kargil, Mulbekh, Wakha, Khaltsi

Mobile Connectivity Upto Sonamarg both BSNL and Airtel post paid connections work, then inDrass only BSNL, once you reach Kargil you will get the Airtel signal, butthen in Mulbekh and Lamayuru only BSNL works, in Nimmu Airtel isrestored along with BSNL and once you reach Leh both Airtel and BSNLworks.

Of course BSNL has more coverage and better connectivity within thisrange than any other operator. Airtel works in Ladakh but with poor

connectivity. SMS does work fine for both BSNL and Airtel. Vodafone did not work after Srinagar and but now works in Leh – Ladakh

with Aircel. Surprisingly, Anadi reports recently (June 2013) below that itdoes not work anymore, may be contract renewal did not happen or what.So, do not rely on Vodafone.

Aircel also work in Leh and adjoining areas. Packet data works but only with BSNL that too with EDGE only. Prepaid connections from outside Jammu and Kashmir do not

work in Leh – Ladakh. Carry only post-paid.

Anadi reports below: Vodafone postpaid still does not work after anywhereafter Srinagar on Srinagar-Leh Highway and towns falling on the saidhighway.(It works in Gulmarg and Pahalgam). It did not work in Sonamarg,

Drass, Kargil, Mulbek, Khaltse, Nimmu and Leh. Bsnl was omnipresent. InLeh, Bsnl, Airtel and Aircel were working. Vodafone, Reliance and Ideawere not working.

Fixed Phones Ganderbal, Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil, Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi, Nimmu andin between these places as well

Electricity Almost all the towns en-route have electricity and I wonder if there is anytown which lacks it.

Medical Facilities Sonamarg, Drass (limited), Kargil, Lamayuru (limited)

ATMs Ganderbal, Drass, Kargil

Mechanic / PunctureShops

Ganderbal, Sonamarg, Kargil, Lamayuru (Puncture), Mulbekh (Puncture),Nimmu (Puncture)

Liquor Shops Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil


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2. Manali Leh Highway | How to Plan a Journey

Manali Leh Highway is one of the roads that leads to the heaven on earth called Leh – Ladakh (Srinagar – Leh Highway being the other one). It is one of those Highways which offers almost everything to an adventurelover that is available with nature. Serious travellers in India and even abroad does have a dream of traversingthis most beautiful Highway at least once in their lifetime and I am honored to have experienced this journeyof my lifetime. Having said that, the journey on Manali Leh Highway could be a bit trick y to plan if you haven’tresearched well enough. Almost more than 350 KMs out of 474 KMs long Manali Leh Highway, does not have

any civilization and hence you would be the only soul wandering on most part of your journey here. Even onecannot find fuel (petrol / diesel) for 365 KMs on Manali – Leh Highway. Therefore, adequate planning is verywell required to travel on Manali – Leh Highway so as to make it a memorable experience. I hope the belowinformation would be helpful for someone planning a journey on Manali – Leh Highway –

Before anything, if you really want to enjoy Manali – Leh Highway then do it fr om Leh side. That is Leh toManali NOT Manali to Leh. This will help you enjoy the Manali – Leh highway without bothering to rushthrough the place or worry about AMS or driving with nausea etc. Manali to Leh will hold you back from theenjoyment, believe me mostly due to AMs as majority of time you are above 4K Mtrs of altitude which bodycannot adapt easily. But, while coming from Leh towards Manali your body will be acclimatized for thealtitudes much more than when you travel in the opposite direction.

Secondly, it will also help you halt you journey at Sarchu which is at an even distance between Manali andLeh and offers varied amount of accommodation option. Otherwise you will end up doing Manali – Keylong onone day and real push from Keylong to Leh on the second because sleeping at Sarchu is not recommended ifyou are coming from Manali unless your body has completely acclimatized to Sarchu altitude by staying inSpiti and Lahaul Valley for about 4-5 days.

Hence, always try to plan a journey to Ladakh in such a manner that you enter Leh via Srinagar side and thenafter exploring Leh – Ladakh for few days come back via Manali – Leh Highway

a) Season to travel on Manali – Leh Highway

Usually, the opening of Rohtang Pass and Baralacha La majorly governs the travel time on Manali – LehHighway. The average time for opening of Rohtang Pass every year is around May and Baralacha La usuallyopens up close to May end. Hence, June to September is the time window when the Manali – Leh Highway isopen and is considered as the only time for travelling on Manali – Leh Highway. In the early stages i.e. June,one can find huge stocks of snow en-route but the road conditions may be a challenge to drive. While in thelater stages i.e. August to September, the conditions of the roads are almost perfect in shape with all the slushdried out, maintenance work almost completed on these roads by BRO but your eyes will be devoid from thesnow mostly.

The weather in June is always unpredictable and chances of rain are also bright. This leads to the closure ofcertain sections on Manali – Leh Highway due to landslides triggered by rains. However, you may be lucky inJune as well to cruise this Highway in bright sunshine. June is not exactly the ideal time when one wants to bein Manali due to mad tourist influx. As the July – August comes, the Monsoon comes as well in the Northernparts of India. However, the regions on the Northern side of Rohtang Pass that is Keylong and beyond mostlyremains untouched by these monsoon rains (except year 2010 which was an exception). So in July-August,though you may need to cross the Southern side of Rohtang Pass in Monsoon rains that is Manali and lowerhills but after that, especially Keylong, you are almost good to go without much trouble with these rains.

June – July is also the time window when the snow melts on high passes creating almost tiny rivers or watercrossings (nallas) on roads in the early stages. This is quite a challenge to dodge, especially with the vehicleshaving low ground clearance. Post afternoon, when the sun is burning at its best, some of these watercrossings or nallas becomes so violent that they are almost impossible to cross. This may force you to halt the

journey of the day in the middle of nowhere or return back to some civilized place for a night halt. The bestway to overcome these water crossings or nallas, is to know the specific nallas on Manali – Leh Highway andplan to cross them as early in the morning as possible. In year 2010, one of the major hurdle was watercrossing or nalla just after Zingzing Bar and before Baralacha La. Another major one was between RohtangPass and Sissu. In early stages (June), even crossing Baralacha La is a big challenge due to melting snowwhich creates some deep water streams on the road itself. Slush is also bound to be present on Baralcha La

in the early stages of the season and is also quite a challenge to negotiate without proper skills even onSUV/MUV. This slush is generally created by the constant moving traffic which beats the snow present on theroad or aside. Hence, try to cover these sections of Manali – Leh Highway in the early part of the day, whensnow melts very slowly and traffic is less.


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b) Modes of travel on Manali – Leh Highway

IMPORTANT NOTE: Himachal Pradesh Govt. has banned the movement of non-HP registered vehicles onManali – Rohtang Pass road with effect from 27th June 2011 onwards. If you are going towards Leh – Ladakhor Keylong in non-HP registered vehicles then you need to get permits from SDM Office in Manali. Bikes donot need any permit and are free to move on Manali – Rohtang Pass road, be it HP registered or not. So,basically the ban is for LMVs having number plate outside Himachal Pradesh.

Private Vehicles i.e. Cars and Bikes | Self Drive or Ride to Ladakh

Most people prefer to self drive or self ride to Ladakh by their own car or own bike and some also prefer to selfdrive or self ride to Ladakh by hiring a bike or car. In any case, hired car/bike or personal car/bike, idea is tolive the passion of driving or riding through one of the toughest and adventurous terrains accessible in India.You can take your own or rented, car or bike to Ladakh but one must be careful while driving or riding throughslushy roads, snow and water crossing or nallas. Also, it is always handy to learn little maintenance tasks ofyour vehicle prior to the start of this arduous journey in which you will be desolated majority of the time.

For cars, although an SUV/MUV is good to have and a 4WD SUV will definitely help but I have seenhatchbacks (including Altos and Nano) and sedans doing good enough job on Manali – Leh Highway.However, with sedans / hatchbacks one must drive with extra care and caution. Also, be ready for fewscratches or sacrifice some parts on your sedans / hatchbacks under-belly due to the lack of enough groundclearance which may be required in some water crossings or landslides on Manali – Leh Highway. If you aretrying to attempt in a hatchback or sedan, I will suggest to plan the journey late in the season (August – September) when the roads are in good shape than early season.

Whenever in doubt, always step out of your car, walk down the path, inspect with your foot and plan the pathof exit before crossing a dangerous landslide or water crossing on your vehicle. You can also park aside andsee how others are crossing the risky section to plan your route of escape. In deep water crossings try tomaintain the momentum without any half clutch measures and complete the entire stretch in one go only.Similarly, in slush stretches do not force the issue rather keep the smooth momentum with required speed topass you through, without half clutch measures. Do keep an eye on the direction of the vehicle too. If you getstuck in slush then try to back and forth your vehicles to get out of the stuck position. It is always handy to askyour fellow co-travellers to get out of the car and push the vehicle from behind incase the car is struggling topass through the slush or water crossing stretch.

Basic toolkit, screw driver set, small hammer, puncture repair kit, iron rod, two or three ―2 ltr‖ empty bottles ofpepsi / coke / limca etc to carry extra petrol or diesel (jerry cans will leak, cold drink bottles do not leak),funnel, towing rope, spare tube (must for bikes), elfy or fevi quick (2-3 sachets), jump start cables/wires, M-seal to prevent leakage etc. were among the few things which I carried along on my trip to Ladakh. Also, donot forget to get your vehicle (car/bike) serviced about 2-3 weeks before the start of the Ladakh journey. Thiswill ensure that you have proper time in advance to test your serviced vehicle and get fixed any hitches thatmay have been introduced in that service.

Hiring a Private Taxi | Taxi Number or Private Number

All taxis (except Ladakh registration number) having taxi number or tourist permits number plates are onlyallowed for a drop in Leh – Ladakh. They are not allowed to be driven in Leh – Ladakh and as per the taxiunion rules only taxis with Ladakh number are allowed to roam in the Ladakh region for sightseeing. If youwant to travel within Leh – Ladakh in your private taxi hired from a place other than Ladakh then in that caseyou need to hire a taxi with private number plate only. However, in the latter case be ready for some queriesby the local taxi drivers in Ladakh or police constables on your route. You need to ensure everyoneinterrogating with you that the vehicles is not hired.

Whenever, you need to hire a taxi always try to hire it from Manali, as the drivers of Manali will always bemore skilled and more accustomed to the route or current conditions of Manali – Leh Highway. Secondly, thelocals always have a majority with an advantage of local support in any hurdle you might face on the waytowards Leh.

To hire a taxi, go directly to Manali taxi stand and bargain hard with the local drivers only, for a drop to Leh.Do not involve any tour operator or hotel staff at any stage. The local taxi drivers will charge about Rs 1000extra for a planned night halt on the way to Leh. The charges are close to Rs 12000 to Rs 17000 for a drop to


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Leh from Manali, depending on your bargaining power, tourist rush and time when you are visiting the place.June being the highest paid and September – August being the least paid.

On Manali bus stand, the taxis that drop people coming from Ladakh are also available sometimes. Since, thesame local sightseeing rules are applied to Ladakh taxis as well in Manali, they are bound to return withoutany tourists from Manali side, officially. If you can catch any of those Ladakhi drivers, you might save yourselfRs 3000 to Rs 4000 for a drop to Leh from Manali. Same rule is applicable from Leh to Manali side as welland hence, if you can get hold of some Himachali driver at Leh taxi stand, you will again save about Rs 3000

to Rs 4000 on your return drop to Manali. However, you need to be a bit careful from local drivers while fixinga deal with non-local drivers. So, it is always nice if you have some references on either place upfront and callthem directly to fix the deal. Secondly, it might be hard that these taxis will agree for any night halt on the waybut it depends on how you gel up in the negotiations and bargaining.

Manali – Leh Bus Service, HPTDC | Good for a solo traveller or a couple

Perhaps if you are travelling alone or with one or two friends, you can buy or book tickets of Manali – Leh busservice of HPTDC. This semi-deluxe bus covers the 474 Km long Manali – Leh stretch with a night halt atHPTDC Hotel Chandrabhaga, Keylong on coming from either side. The ticket costs Rs 2000 per person (asper year 2010 price) which includes a stay at HPTDC Hotel Chandrabhaga, Keylong and two meals i.e. dinnerand breakfast at the same hotel. There was also an option to buy the ticket only without hotel stay and mealsfor Rs 1500 (not sure if it is still there). The prices mentioned here may change anytime though. The overallcomfort level of the bus is much better than other buses that ply on Manali – Leh Highway.

The bus starts every odd day of the month i.e. 1,3,5 etc from Manali side and every even day of the month i.e.2,4,6 etc from Leh side. (Schedule: At the time of writing this article) Hence, you need to plan your traveldates accordingly, if you go by this option. The tickets can be bought or booked at HPTDC office on mall road,Manali or you may like to contact at HPTDC Office in your local town (HPTDC Contact Details). Do not bookthe seats at the back and confirm before booking regarding the location of the seats. At the back seats, youmay have trouble when the road gets bad especially on the second day i.e. Keylong to Leh. The bus departsat 11 AM from Manali on the first day and 5 AM from Keylong on the second day to reach Leh about 7 PM.

Keylong – Leh Bus Service, HRTC | Cheapest mode of travel

HRTC also run a regular bus service to Leh although not from Manali but from Keylong. However, you canbook tickets for connecting buses (Manali – Keylong and Keylong – Leh) from Manali bus depot itself or evenISBT, Delhi. You can also reach Keylong by getting a seat in numerous shared taxis that ply between Manali

– Keylong every day. The HRTC buses may not be as comfortable though but comfort comes with the price.The ticket between Manali – Keylong costs about Rs 100 – 125 and then Keylong – Leh it costs about Rs 450

– 550, in HRTC buses. I do not know the exact price though. The bus departs at 5 AM from Keylong andreaches Leh about 7 PM.

Shared Taxi | A Cannon ball run

You can also buy yourself a seat in a shared taxi which runs every mid-night from Manali and reaches Leh onnext evening without any night halt. In the same way, shared taxis are run from Leh to Manali as well.You need to pay about Rs 1200 to Rs 1800 per person for a drop to Leh from Manali or a drop to Manali from

Leh. Of course, since it is shared with 9-10 other people plus the driver and completes the back brakingcannon ball run of Manali – Leh in 16-18 hours, you can imagine the level of comfort yourself. This one is thesecond cheapest mode of travel on Manali – Leh Highway but mind you, it could be the toughest on the bodytoo

Other travel modes

You can also get in touch with some travel agent or taxi union in Manali who also runs their private buses orTempo Travellers on Manali – Leh Highway. They are also run according to dates and hence you may not findthe immediate bookings for them.

c) Planning Night Stay or Accommodation on Manali – Leh Highway

Based on my experience, you can opt to plan a journey on Manali – Leh Highway in one of the following ways:

Two Day Journey on Manali – Leh Highway

http://hptdc.nic.in/contact.htmhttp://hptdc.nic.in/contact.htmhttp://hptdc.nic.in/contact.htmhttp://hptdc.nic.in/contact.htm


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The options of stay or accommodation are very limited on Manali – Leh Highway due to the limited civilization.Hence, a two day journey on Manali – Leh Highway is the most common among all travellers. Private Taxisand buses run by HPTDC or HRTC also cover the Manali – Leh Highway in two days. Mostly, people break upthe journey on Manali – Leh Highway in the following two ways over a span of two days -

Manali – Keylong / Jispa (Day 1) and Keylong / Jispa – Leh (Day 2)

This option is mostly preferred by people who do not want to run the risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS) by

staying at higher altitudes than Keylong or Jispa. However, on the second day, you need to leave early in themorning like by 5 AM from Keylong or Jispa to reach Leh in time. Public buses including HPTDC / HRTC haltsfor night at Keylong and leave at 5 AM in the next morning, too.

Personally, out of Keylong or Jispa I will always prefer to stay at Jispa, if travelling by your own or privatelyhired vehicle. Jispa is situated right on the banks of river Bhaga and is further 20 KMs away from Keylongtown. Spending the evening at this place is extremely refreshing and is far better experience than the boringKeylong town. While Keylong town offers varied accommodation options, Jispa has only few options availablefor a stay and hence, it is important that you pre-book them. Secondly, if you are travelling by public transporti.e. HRTC or HPTDC buses then you need to stay at Keylong only else you need to manage the travel toJispa yourself and then fix the pickup too with the driver or conductor. Mobile phones may or may not work inJispa.

Manali –

Sarchu / Pang (Day 1) and Sarchu / Pang –

Leh (Day 2)

After Keylong and Jispa, you will find accommodation majorly at Sarchu and Pang only. This option is alsotaken by many travellers. However, Sarchu and Pang being at much higher altitudes, many people suffer withheadaches, vomiting or sleepless nights. Hence, if you have plans to stay either at Sarchu or Pang then it isextremely important that you stay at Solang Valley not in Manali to acclimatize your body a little bit. SolangValley also may not help altogether though but Manali will certainly not help the cause.

Both Pang and Sarchu are close to mid way between Manali and Leh. So, a stay at any of these placesevenly distributes the time and fatigue over a span of two days. This way it helps you better enjoy the journeyon each of the two days. Again in between Sarchu and Pang, I will suggest a stay at Sarchu due to its loweraltitude than Pang. Pang has lesser and cheaper options available but Sarchu has varied options includingthe Swiss tents with attached toilets. In the end, if you are coming from Leh, then you can stay at either Pangor Sarchu without any trouble because by then your body will be acclimatized to handle such altitudes.

One Day Journey on Manali – Leh Highway

Manali – Leh (Day 1)

This option of completing the journey of Manali – Leh in single day is mostly common among local people orpeople who are in high rush and is least recommended if you want to enjoy your travel. Shared taxis are thepreferred way to avail this option. Although, it could be the cheapest or time saving for you but this backbraking, cannon ball run of 16-18 Hrs with least stoppages does put a heavy toll on the body as well as themind of an average traveller. This long journey is extremely tiring and by traversing through the varied amountof altitudes ranging from 1900 Mtrs to over 5000 Mtrs in a single day, you are definitely running a risk of acute

mountain sickness (AMS) or some severe headaches or disorientation en-route. This will certainly kill the joyof the journey.

Keep in mind that you are most likely to hit with mountain sickness in this option. If you get away with itconsider yourself extremely lucky otherwise keep in mind that any breakdown of the vehicle like puncture,engine heat down etc at some high altitude (Tanglang La, Nakee La, Lachulung La etc) with you sufferingfrom mountain sickness may lead to very very ugly outcomes. Hence, DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT take theacclimatization factor lightly.

Three Day Journey on Manali – Leh Highway

Manali – Keylong / Jispa (Day 1) and Keylong / Jispa – Sarchu / Pang (Day 2) and Sarchu / Pang – Leh (Day3)

Well, this option is nothing but the combination of other two to cover Manali – Leh Highway in three days.Definitely, this option will require more time as well as more money but the results will be worth every penny.This option is the best way to thoroughly enjoy the beauty of nature that is offered by Manali – Leh Highway


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with worries of mountain sickness but minimum and in relaxed manner. There are plenty of places / vistas andpicture taking points on Manali – Leh Highway that are worth spending this extra time and money.

I suggest this option of travel or in particular overnight stay at Sarch/Pang only when you are coming from Lehtowards Manali NOT while going towards Leh from Manali side unless you are coming from Manali side afterspending some nights in Spiti and Lahaul Valley. Sarch and Pang are both above 4K altitude which requireyour body to have few nights at 3K and 2K Mtrs of altitudes to acclimatize your body. If you went to Leh viaSrinagar side and coming from Leh after spending few days, your body will be acclimatized better to minimize

the chances of AMS at Sarchu or Pang.

Very few people follow this option due to lack of time and to save money for the ultimate heaven. If these twothings have no place for consideration at your grounds then I will say just go with it and you will make your

journey on Manali – Leh Highway much more than a memorable experience :). I guess the comparison ofnight halts are already done in first option, so opt as per your taste. Again if possible, do stay at Solang Valleynot in Manali to minimize the chances or effects of mountain sickness.

This option will mostly be available, if you are travelling by your own vehicle. You will even have tough timebargaining with drivers at Manali taxi stand for 2 night halts unless you are ready to pay them handsomely.

d) List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Manali – Leh Highway

It’s always better to know or have the list of all accommodation places on Manali – Leh Highway before youtravel on it because in such unpredictable terrain you can never predict what can come to your rescue. So,having as much details as possible about the place is always favorable.

e) Acclimatization and its importance on Manali – Leh Highway

The journey on Manali – Leh Highway goes through series of high altitudes passes which are good enough tocause headaches, vomiting, disorientation and mountain sickness to the best in the business. After crossingPatseo or Deepak Tal you are bound to run this high road to Ladakh above 4000 Mtrs until you descend fromTaglang La towards Rumste / Upshi. However, with little prevention and care you can combat or minimize theeffects of altitude sickness. Here are some tips which will help fighting the AMS on Manali – Leh Highway -

Don’t stay overnight at Manali, rather stay at Solang Valley which helps in the acclimatization whereasManali does not. You always have an option to roam around in Manali and come back for a night sleep atsome hotel in Solang Valley. This will help your body acclimatize to certain extent on the start of your

journey. On Manali – Leh Highway, do stay at either Keylong or Jispa which are lower in altitude than Sarchu and

Pang to minimize the effects of mountain sickness. Keep your body properly hydrated. Avoid sleeping at high altitudes. Avoid over exertion. Avoid tobacco and smoking and alcohol and other depressant drugs. Keep your body warm and eat lots of carbohydrates. Avoid sleep during the day. Sleep in upright position, if possible. Carry preventive medicines for AMS. Immediately descend, if symptoms increase

f) Fuel or Petrol Pump on Manali – Leh Highway

After Manali town, there is only one Petrol Pump at Tandi on entire Manali – Leh Highway before Upshi /Karu. DO NOT forget to get the tank full fuel at this petrol pump, even if you had it completely filled at Manali.The more you have, the better it will be for you.

g) ATM on Manali – Leh Highway

Do carry enough cash money with you as the ATM is available only in Keylong and Manali town. If you haveno plans to stay at Keylong then do not forget to withdraw cash from Manali town. After Keylong, you will get

hold of an ATM only at Leh town.


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h) Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Manali – Leh Highway

Facility Places

Hotel / Guest Houses Khoksar, Sissu, Gondla, Patseo, Tandi, Keylong (Many options), Jispa, Upshi

Tents / Camps(Dhaba/ Swiss / Normal)

Marhi, Jispa, Darcha, Zingzing Bar, Bharatpur, Sarchu (Many options), Pang

Food / Beverages Marhi, Rohtang Pass, Khoksar, Sissu, Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Deepak Tal,

Zingzing Bar, Bharatpur, Sarchu, Pang, Rumste, Upshi

Diesel / Petrol Pumps Tandi (107 KMs from Manali), Karu (36 KMs from Leh)

Mobile Connectivity In our case, mobile signal of Airtel worked till Keylong only and thenfaded rapidly. The signals were restored after crossing Upshi for Airtel.

Of course BSNL has more coverage and better connectivity within thisrange than any other operator. Airtel works in Ladakh but with poorconnectivity.

SMS does work fine for both BSNL and Airtel. Vodafone did not work for us at all after crossing Marhi and not even in

Leh -Ladakh. Packet data also works upto Keylong and in Leh packet data is available

only with BSNL edge.

Prepaid connections do not work in Leh –

Ladakh. Fixed Phones Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Upshi

Electricity Sissu, Gondla, Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Upshi

Medical Facilities Sissu, Keylong

ATMs Keylong

Police Checkpoints Darcha, Sarchu, Upshi, Khoksar (For foreigners only)

Mechanic / PunctureShops

Marhi, Khoksar, Tandi (not sure), Keylong, Darcha, Sarchu, Upshi

Liquor Shops Marhi, Keylong, Darcha, Upshi

Natural Highlights Rohtang Pass, Tandi Confluence, Sissu Waterfall, Deepak Tal, Suraj Tal,Baralacha La, Strange Soil formations, Moore Plains (Wildlife too), Taglang

La or Tanglang La, Gata Loops


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3. Places on Manali – Leh Highway | A Detailed Description

There is no doubt that Manali – Leh Highway is easily the most adventurous as well as the most beautifulamong all the Highways in India. Every adventure lover has a dream to traverse this 474 KM long, Manali – Leh Highway at least once in his or her lifetime. However, I strongly feel that everyone who loves to travel, beit adventure lover or nature lover or any other form, must and must travel Manali – Leh Highway at least oncein his/her lifetime. Personally, I am lucky enough to have gone through the experience of this lifetime journeyand wish I will do it many more times in future too. Over a span of 474 KM, on the Manali – Leh Highway, one

goes through varied forms of nature ranging from beautiful lush green valley(s) to rocky barren multi coloredmountains to high walls of snow to violent river/water crossings (nallas) to wide flat lands to abrupt landslidesto head swaying hair pin bends to butter smooth roads to many non-existent and washed away roads tostrong cold winds blowing you away and to what not :lol:, all this raising the fun of this ultimate journey togreater heights.

The Manali – Leh Highway makes you experience the raw mother nature present on earth in almost its everyform. Technically, BRO takes care of this Highway and they have further divided its responsibility betweenProject Deepak and Project Himank. Project Deepak is responsible for maintaining the section from Manali toSarchu(222 KM) in Himachal Pradesh region while Project Himank is responsible for Sarchu to Leh (252.4KMs) section which falls in Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir region.

This article is an informatory dissection of all major places that comes on the route from Manali to Leh alongwith the details of food, fuel, accommodation or stay options, amenities etc on Manali – Leh Highway. I hopethis may help you get an idea of what is offered on a journey of Manali – Leh Highway bearing in mind thestoppages of your interest including overnight stays, food, beverages, amenities, photos etc. If you are notinterested in much of the text then you may also check the summary of the places in tabular format at the endof the article directly.

Manali | Altitude: 1950 Mtrs – Solang Valley | Altitude: 2590 Mtrs

Manali, about 570 KM from Delhi, is the place from where this life time journey begins. Manali, the valley ofgods is lush green at the time when you would be doing your Leh journey and you will definitely enjoy theweather there. Although, in May – June due to holiday rush this place is not a penny less than the chaotictrade fair and I am sure you will not want to be at this place in such a tourist rush. Being said that, you can doa lot in Manali town.

One point worth highlighting here is that if you are on your way to Leh – Ladakh from Manali then avoidstaying overnight in Manali town rather stay overnight at Solang Valley, 14 KM away. Why? Manali is at loweraltitude than Solang Valley and does not help in acclimatization. Solang Valley does help acclimatize yourbody to some extent which may help in minimizing the troubles of mountain sickness as you move aheadtowards Leh – Ladakh in upcoming days. Solang Valley is further 16 KM ahead of Manali and is much calmerplace as compared to Manali. Solang Valley also offers some majestic views along with adventure activitieslike parachuting, paragliding, skating and zorbing etc

The only drawback with Solang Valley is that you won’t find as many options for a stay as you can find inManali. The prices of the hotels in Solang Valley are likely to be on the higher side as compared to the variedeconomic hotel options available in Manali town. Also, the variety of cuisines will be much less as comparedto Manali and mostly you will need to have your food in hotel only. But, the advantage acclimatization andpeace definitely outweighs these minor hitches, unless you really want a very very cheap hotel. If you reallymiss different cuisines and lively place, you can surely spend your day in Manali enjoying the other flavors ofthe valley and come back to hotel at Solang Valley for night stay.

Technically, Solang Valley is not on Manali – Leh Highway rather one needs to take a left diversion fromPalchan and travel further 6 KM to reach Solang Valley. If you have hired a taxi from Manali to Leh, you needto ask the driver upfront to pick you from Solang Valley hotel. If you have opted for a shared taxi / public bus,then you yourself need to reach Palchan, the diversion point on Manali – Leh Highway to get into one of themen-route but that also must have been booked in advance from Manali.

Gulaba

Running through few small villages (Palchan, Kothi) of this beautiful lush green valley you reach Gulaba, 20KM from Manali. Gulaba is famous as one of the lower winter snow point when the road to Rohtang Pass getsclosed. There are only few Dhabhas on Gulaba and no options of stay.


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Marhi | Altitude: 3300 Mtrs

After Gulaba, one reaches Marhi which is the highest snow point in winters when road to Rohtang Pass isclosed. There are few Dhabhas on Marhi and as well as there is a liquor shop as well :D. There are no stayoptions apart from those temporary Dhabhas.

Rani Nala

Few KMs ahead of Marhi you reach Rani Nalla which is a glacier point. This place is famous for its huge snowwalls, more than 20 feet high. You can find snow here almost every day of year, may be just year 2010 wasan exception. The feeling of going between these huge walls of snow is impeccable. Of course, if you do notleave early in the day then surely the traffic jam may frustrate you here due to the narrow passage and killyour time. You need to leave as early as possible like 5 AM from Manali to avoid traffic jam on Manali – Rohtang Pass road. In year 2010, the stretch here was in pathetic shape and took many lives due to constantlandslides. It is perhaps the last major point on southern portal of Rohtang Pass. No stay or food options areavailable here.

Rohtang Pass | Altitude: 3980 Mtrs

51 KMs away from Manali town, Rohtang Pass connects the tribal valleys of Lahaul and Spiti to Kullu Valley.This is the hottest Himalayan tourist spot in Northern India and people flood this place in the month of Mayand June. Do expect heavy tourist rush and traffic jam, if you are late in leaving from Manali. It is closed formore than six months in the winter months due to heavy snowfall. Many people feel the altitude factor afterreaching Rohtang Pass with headaches and feeling to puke. So, it is better to keep yourself hydrated on theway. You can enjoy food / beverages here but there is no place for accommodation. By the way meaning ofRohtang is ―pile of corpses or dead bodies‖ ;)…

Gramphu | Altitude: 3200 Mtrs

After you descend towards northern portal of Rohtang Pass, you reach Gramphu. At Gramphu, there is adiversion towards right which will lead you to Spiti Valley via Kunzam Pass. If you want to visit Chandratalthen you need to take the diversion towards Spiti and once you reach Battal, go straight towards Chandratal.There are no stay or food options at Gramphu.

Khokhsar | Altitude: 3140 Mtrs

Just few KM after Gramphu you reach Khoksar which is the first settlement in the Lahaul Valley of HimachalPradesh. This place has several Dhabhas where you can enjoy the food, a clean washroom / toilet to freshenup and a PWD rest house. In order to stay at PWD rest house, generally you will need the advance bookings.There are few houses as well in this small village. The Chandra river flows through this place and the viewsare just amazing from the village.

Sissu | Altitude: 3170 Mtrs

Sissu or Khagling is a small town situated at the right bank of Chandra River in the Lahaul valley of HimachalPradesh. There is a waterfall on the opposite side of town which, people says, looks spectacular butpersonally I haven’t seen it.

It has a PWD Rest House but in case you want to stay then do book that in advance else you may not find theaccommodation. My personal experience had not been good with getting any accommodation at any of theHP PWD Rest Houses. There are few small dhabhas or food stalls where you can find food, tea/coffee anddrinking water as well. You may also get some basic healthcare facilities at the local Primary Health Carecenter at Sissu town. There is also a helipad that is used for the chopper services and mainly utilized bylocales in the winter months when the roads are closed due to heavy snow at Rohtang Pass connecting Kullu

– Manali Valley and Kunzam Pass connecting Spiti Valley.

Tandi | Altitude: 2573 Mtrs

At Tandi, you will find the only petrol pump on Manali – Leh Highway after Manali and up to Upshi / Karu or

Leh. The next petrol pump is about 365 KMs away towards Leh from Tandi. Hence, it is extremely importantthat you do not miss this petrol pump to top up the fuel. Apart from being famous for this only petrol pump onManali – Leh Highway, Tandi is a confluence of Chandra River and Bhaga River. The merged river is calledChandrabhaga River and when it enters Jammu and Kashmir, it is further called Chenab river. The Chandra


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River originates from Chandratal, Spiti Valley and Bhaga River originates from Suraj Tal or Surya Tal, LahaulValley. So, if you have time on hand then do click some pictures of the confluence too.

Keylong | Altitude: 3080 Mtrs

Keylong is the biggest town located on Manali – Leh Highway and is the district/administrative headquarter ofLahaul Valley and Spiti Valley districts of Himachal Pradesh. All the major GOVT. offices of the district arepresent in Keylong town only. The Keylong town is completely cut off from the outside world in the winter

months of November to April, due to heavy snow present at Rohtang Pass. There is a famous KardangMonastery in Keylong which is the largest and most important monastery of Lahaul district of the Drukpa sectof Tibetan Buddhism. The views from the Keylong town are nice with Bhaga river flowing in between butpersonally I felt it (Keylong) too boring …

Most people while travelling on Manali – Leh Highway including the HRTC and HPTDC bus services halts fora night stop at Keylong town. There are many options of accommodation (small hotels and guest houses)available at Keylong including the famous HPTDC Hotel Chandrabhaga, Circuit House, PWD Rest House,Tourist Bungalow etc. There are few small hotels or guest houses in Keylong town which are right on theManali – Leh Highway and can be opted for a stay too.

Also, people coming to explore Lahaul Valley including Udaipur, Triloknath Temple etc make Keylong as thebase town. There are phone and power connections which can be utilized to call at home, charge mobile orcamera batteries. Beyond Keylong you will not find mobile signal and fixed landline phone except Jispa.Medical facilities are also available at the local hospital and there is also one SBI ATM in Keylong town. So, ifyou have by chance missed the ATM at Manali to fetch the cash then do not miss this one. At first place, I willsay do not miss the Manali ATM but still if you have missed it then try your luck at the Keylong ATM which isthe only ATM in reach on Manali – Leh Highway.

Jispa | Altitude: 3320 Mtrs

Jispa, is a small village that is located on the banks of Bhaga River. While coming from Manali side, this is mymost preferred place for a night stay and to break the journey on Manali – Leh Highway. The accommodationoptions present in Jispa are limited as compared to Keylong but if you book them in advance I bet the vistasare worth spending time and money. There is hotel Ibex, a guest house and some camping tents including theSwiss tents which are available as stay options at Jispa. You can get the food as well as beverages here. Thevillage also has a small monastery, a small museum along with numerous trails into the woods which you canexplore or how about spending some time on the banks of Bhaga river, for me it’s just amazing. There is ahelipad as well in Jispa. Jispa have telephone connection which you may use to call at home or informsomeone close because beyond Jispa mobile signals (might have gone already) as well as fixed phones willbe hard to find till you cross Upshi or reach Leh.

Darcha | Altitude: 3360 Mtrs

Darcha is a small village that is considered as last northernmost civilized place in Himachal Pradesh.Primarily, everyone travelling on Manali – Leh Highway needs to stop at Darcha police checkpoint and has toregister their names with vehicle number in the passerby records. This acts as a record that a person haspassed Darcha on his journey on Manali – Leh Highway which is useful in case of rescue like operations (orother purposes as well). Foreigners need to get their passports verified at Darcha police checkpoint. Darcha isalso the endpoint of a famous trek which starts from Padum, Zanskar Valley in Ladakh region and of course,you can start the same trek from here as well :)…

Food / Drinking Water / Beverages (tea/coffee) in dhabhas or road side stalls is available at Darcha. Thisplace also have some tented accommodations and a few people stay overnight at Darcha as well. Darchadoes have telephone and power connections, in case you need to call home or charge your phone or camerafor one last time before reaching Leh then you may try your luck here as well. I didn’t see any phone here butpeople do say that the village has the connection even WIKI also say so

Beyond Darcha, the vegetation will start to reduce and the mountains will start to change their colors into darkbrown water color paintings that we all used to paint in childhood. Decrease in vegetation also means difficultyin pumping the oxygen and increasing altitude will make it even tougher. This is another reason why you need

your body to be acclimatized better and hydrated always on this tough journey. Do not forget to intake goodamount of water just to keep your minerals and oxygen correct in the body. It will be best if you can carry ORSdiluted water with you all the time and keep sipping it after every half an hour or so.


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Deepak Tal | Altitude: 3810 Mtrs

Deepak Tal is a small manmade lake near Patseo having its own charm and is one of the two lakes thatcomes on Manali – Leh Highway. The still water of the lake offers some very nice reflecting views, almostpicturesque from many different angles to all those photography lovers. So, if you are one of those then getready to shoot some unique angle of your own :)… You can enjoy a cup of tea or your breakfast at the Dhaba

just aside Deepak Tal. Beyond Deepak Tal, you will be at an altitude of more than 14000 feet till you reachabout Upshi. So, get ready for some real fun in various ways…

Patseo | Altitude: 3811 Mtrs

After passing through Deepak Tal you will reach Patseo just a couple of KMs ahead. Patseo is a small placewhere only few army camps are present and they have diverted the road in some weird zigzag manner. Onceyou reach Patseo the roads deteriorates considerably and there on for about 40-45 KMs till about you passBaralacha La, you will find some very rough or even washed away roads.

Zingzing Bar | Altitude: 4270 Mtrs

Zingzing Bar is a tiny place with 2-3 tented dhabhas that offers stay options in them. Of course, thesedhabhas does offer food and beverages too. If leaving early from Keylong/Jispa and if you are one of thosewho eat late after waking up then you can mark this place for breakfast as well. This is where the ascent tothe mighty Baralacha La pass starts. Just after Zingzing bar, there is a nalla (water crossing) created by themelting snow of Baralacha range. So, do cross this nalla or water crossing early in the morning because in thelate noon it becomes barely impossible to cross this violent nalla even by trucks :). In such a case, on Manaliside, you will either have to stay overnight in the vehicle or Zingzing Bar dhabhas and on the Baralacha Laside, you will need to go back to Bharatpur or Sarchu tented accommodations for a night stay or stay invehicle.

Suraj Tal | Altitude: 4950 Mtrs

Suraj Tal or Surya Tal is the second highest lake in India and 21st highest lake in the world. Amidst in the highhills of Baralacha La range and just below the Baralacha La pass (8 KMs before Baralacha La pass), you willfind this beautiful crystal clear aqua colored sacred body of water. Suraj Tal is the source of Bhaga river andremains totally frozen and cut off in the months of winter.

Early in the season i.e. June, you may find this lake to be frozen as well. As the time pass into the summers,surrounded with snow covered peaks and emitting its aqua green color as the base, the Suraj Tal looks simplybreathtaking. Do not miss to click few pictures of this amazing high altitude lake in India.

Baralacha La | Altitude: 4890 Mtrs

Baralacha La or Baralacha Pass (La meaning Pass) is second of the five high mountain passes that comes onManali – Leh Highway. Baralacha La connects Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh district ofJammu and Kashmir. At the North West base of Baralacha La range, Bhaga river originates from Suraj orSurya Tal and at South East base, Chandra river originates from Chandratal. Yunam river flows on the Sarchu(Ladakh) side of Baralacha La. There is another famous trekking route which goes to Chandra Tal orChandratal, either starting from or ending at Baralacha La. You will not find any food or water oraccommodation at this pass.

After Rohtang Pass, Baralacha Pass is the second major hurdle to cross or open. At least in the early seasonof Manali – Leh journey, you will certainly witness one or two vehicles either stuck aside or stuck in the middleto traffic jam the road. The ice or snow melting from the slopes, battered by moving traffic either creates deepslush or deep water crossings by washing away the roads. This makes the journey more adventurous and fullof challenges on this mighty mountain pass :).. The feeling of passing through this particular pass is a feelingof its own kind and I purely loved it

Bharatpur | Altitude: Not Sure and Killing Sarai or Sarchu Sarai | Altitude: 4600 Mtrs

After passing through a small deserted place named Killing Sarai or Sarchu Sarai, you will reach Bharatpur

(city) which has 2-3 dhabhas as well as a series of tented accommodation running alongside Manali – LehHighway. Some people do stay overnight at these camps as well. The tents here are cheaper as compared toSarchu. You can have food / tea / coffee here. Once you cross Bharatpur, after a few KMs you will comeacross a road straight as an arrow leading towards Sarchu. Your instincts will compel you to rip apart and just


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zip pass through it. I will suggest to hold on to those instincts as the road is straight but does have lots ofbumps in between may be due to loose soil beneath or due to holes dug by Himalayan marmots. All I want tosay is that while speeding through that road, do not be too complacent while driving :)… else ready for somesuper bumps on the way…

Sarchu | Altitude: 4290 Mtrs

Sarchu, 222 KM away from Manali, is famous for its good tented accommodations on Manali – Leh Highway.

At Sarchu, the state changes from Himachal Pradesh to Jammu and Kashmir. Also, the Deepak Project endsand Himank Project starts from Sarchu. At Sarchu, there is a second police checkpoint where you need toregister your name again on this epic journey. The entry acts as a record of your arrival up to Sarchu. Sarchuis almost a middle point of the journey on Manali – Leh Highway having good amount of tentedaccommodation options including the Swiss tents with attached toilets. Hence, many people do consider it fora night halt. People already having the night halt at Keylong or Jispa, usually stops for lunch at Sarchu. It doeshave few dhabhas (2-3) which offers food and beverages as well.

Sarchu is at high altitude and many people staying overnight here suffer from mountain sickness includingsleepless night, severe headaches or vomiting. If you are not properly acclimatized you will surely be one ofthem, suffering the pinch or punches :)… While coming from Manali side the body is not properly acclimatizedand incase you have not had a night stay at Keylong or Jispa, the body will surely suffer to adapt at such highaltitude at night. Hence, even though Sarchu offers good amount of stay options (tented) but it’s always betterto avoid a stay at Sarchu over Jispa or Keylong in the same order of preference. However, if you are comingfrom Leh after spending few nights at higher altitudes then the body is acclimatized to adapt and you caneither opt to stay at Sarchu or Pang depending upon your taste of the place.

Gata Loops | Altitude: 4190 Mtrs

After 24 KMs from Sarchu, a series of 21 hair pin bends or loops about 7 KMs long, just before Nakee LaPass, will elevate you from an altitude of 4190 Mtrs to 4630 Mtrs. They are called Gata Loops. No food, nofuel and no accommodation is available here.

Nakee La | Altitude: 4740 Mtrs

This one is the third of the five passes that comes on the Manali – Leh Highway. You will not find any soul,food, accommodation or fuel or even trees here… The place is totally deserted.

Lachalung La or Lachulung La | Altitude: 5079 Mtrs

Lachulung La or Lachalung La or Lungalacha La is the second highest pass on the Manali – Leh Highway.Get ready to start feeling some breathlessness from here. You will reach above an altitude of 5000 Mtrs or16000 feet for the first time on your journey. Again there is no vegetation (also counts for breathlessness too),people, fuel, food, or accommodation

Pang | Altitude: 4600 Mtrs

Pang, is where you really start to see those unique looking soil formations on the mountains and specialcolors of Ladakh will become more prominent just around Pang and onwards. Pang also has the world’shighest transit camps. Pang has few tented accommodation in Dhabhas for a night stay and one can alsoenjoy food or beverages on their short stopover at Pang, evening tea may be. One of the Dhabhas also hadattached bathroom. Few KMs before Pang, the road runs alongside a river which offers an exciting feeling andsome very nice vistas. Pang along with its surrounding areas, does offers some fantastic views to be capturedin your camera. Hence, do not miss on the opportunity to record few of them … Pang is at higher altitude thanSarchu which will account for headaches + mountain sickness and offers much lesser accommodation optiontoo. Hence, it is always better to stay at Sarchu which offers the Swiss tents too.

This is the last point where you can find food and accommodation at least before Upshi, which does have verybasic and limited guest houses. If you are running late, then at Upshi as well you are likely to be unlucky onaccommodation front. Hence, if you think you have gone late and don’t want to carry on till Leh in dark, I willsuggest you to stay at Pang only and thoroughly enjoy the rest of the colorful journey in next day’s daylight, it

will be totally worth.

Moore Plains | Altitude: 4730 Mtrs


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Moore plains or Morey plains are surprisingly, flat bedded plains amidst the highest of hills in the country.They run over a length of about 30-35 KMs. As soon as one reach here, the instincts force people to maketheir own roads but I request you not to do so because it damages the ecology of the place and disturbs thewildlife. Many of the wild animals live on the water sources present in Moore plains and running the car off theused tracks may damage those scarce sources. Most people make their own road here and try to do allsought of things with their vehicles, including race with other fellow drivers (specially common among taxidrivers). However, these jerks are unaware of the fact that along with risking the damage to the vehicle inloose soil or pot hole in the middle of nowhere they are also disturbing the ecology of the place. So, I request

at least you not to do so and respect the mother nature in every term so that it prosper more and mo re… Ifyou are lucky you may spot a Kiyang (Ladakh wild asses) here and blue sheep too. Hence, keep yourcameras ready for the game

Debring | Altitude: 4835 Mtrs

At Debring, there are few wrecked shelters of road workers may be and some army camps too. There is aroad (rough in condition) rather I shall stay dirt track that goes to Tso Kar lake and further to Tso Moriri lake ofLadakh. However, you cannot visit the lakes if you are going from Manali side as you will not be having theinner line permits to visit the lakes. The permits are issued from DC office, Leh or even if you arrange thepermits through a travel agent it is not recommended that you attempt a stay at such high altitudes (TsoMoriri: 4595 Mtrs and Tso Kar: 4530 Mtrs) with improper acclimatization. Well, on your return if you haveplans to visit Tso Moriri and Tso Kar then you can return via this route. However, the road conditions are bad.

Taglang La or Tanglang La | Altitude: 5328 Mtrs

This is the last and the highest pass on Manali – Leh Highway at a whooping height of 5328 Mtrs or 17582feet. This pass is also the second highest motorable pass or road in the world, after Khardung La (5602 Mtrsor 18380 feet) which is the highest motorable pass or road in the world. The winds at the pass are freezingcold and the force is such that it will blow you off the cliffs … Sometimes, it’s even hard to stand your groundeven. Secondly, the oxygen level per breath decreases considerably and with almost nil vegetation mostpeople suffer breathlessness at this pass. The raging pollution from trucks or oil tankers also accounts for thestoppage being brief, by most people. Don’t be surprised if your head may also spin many rounds at thisplace, especially when you come from Manali side. While our short stay of 10 minutes, I had almost lost myfooting quite a number of times due to that spinning affect at Tangang La (Disorientation or ataxia)… Thepicture aside the sign board of second highest motorable road in the world, is a must for everyone visiting thismighty pass. No food and no accommodation is present here.

Rumste | Altitude: 4260 Mtrs

As you descend from Taglang La, Rumste is the first settlement you will come across as you enter the Lehvalley. It is situated alongside the Indus river an

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Leh Guide - DOW