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Legend Swimwear Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Factory Limited Product Evaluation Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung Dr. M.Y. Leung

Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

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Page 1: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Legend Legend Swimwear Swimwear

Factory LimitedFactory Limited Product EvaluationProduct Evaluation

Dr. M.Y. LeungDr. M.Y. Leung

Page 2: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Content (2 hours)Content (2 hours)

1. Introduction of Product Evaluation

2. Scope of Product evaluation3. Specifications of Swimwear

Fabrics4. Fabric testing

Fabric Construction Physical Properties Colorfastness Properties

Page 3: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Scope of Scope of EvaluatioEvaluatio

nnMatching Matching PatternPattern

Blind-stitched hem

Product Inspection

Workmanship checking

Labeling checking

Performance Testing

Page 4: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Performance Quality of Textile Performance Quality of Textile ProductsProducts

Other YarnCharacteristics

Yarn Count

FabricSett

FabricThickness

Fabricweight

FibreCom position

Construction

AbrasionResistance

SeamSlippage

SeamStrength

BurstingStrength

TearStrength

TensileS trength

Durability

D im ensionStability

Draping

SnaggingResistance

P illingResistance

Colorfastness

AppearanceRetention

Aesthetic

W eather/Organismresistance

Appearanceafter finishing

Colorfastness

D im ensionStability

Care

Others toxic orenvironm ental test

Form aldehyreRelease

Flam m ability

W aterrepellence

Functional& Safety

Handle

A ir/ watervapor perm eability

MoistureRegain/ content

W ettability

Therm alProperty

Com fort

Page 5: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Performance Tests for Performance Tests for Swimwear??Swimwear??

What suggestion for Care What suggestion for Care Label??Label??

Page 6: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Knits specializing on stretchable & functional knitsKnits specializing on stretchable & functional knits

Swimwear fabrics

Page 7: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Pigment print, pigment discharge print, rubber print, burn-out Pigment print, pigment discharge print, rubber print, burn-out print, puff printprint, puff print

Exit Back to Overall

Swimwear Fabrics

Page 8: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

ProductsStretch woven fabrics with Embroidery

Exit Back to Overall

Page 9: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Care-label for SwimwearCare-label for Swimwear

Wash in warm water (40°C)Wash in warm water (40°C) Do not bleachDo not bleach Do not ironDo not iron Do not dry-clean/ No dry-cleanDo not dry-clean/ No dry-clean Do not tumble dry/ Flat dry/ Hang dryDo not tumble dry/ Flat dry/ Hang dry

Page 10: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Specification and Specification and StandardStandard

Throughout the world there Throughout the world there are numerous organizations are numerous organizations to develop standard test to develop standard test methods and regulations to methods and regulations to control the performance control the performance quality of textile.quality of textile.

Uniformity of standards are Uniformity of standards are with a growing need.with a growing need.

International standards to International standards to alleviate some of the alleviate some of the problems faced by problems faced by manufacturers that export or manufacturers that export or import from foreign import from foreign manufacturers are necessary.manufacturers are necessary.

Page 11: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Sources of StandardsSources of Standards

International Standards

National Standards

Company Standard

Product

Spec

Page 12: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

International StandardsInternational Standards

International Used Standards:International Used Standards: The International Organization for The International Organization for

Standardization (ISO)Standardization (ISO) British Standards (BS)British Standards (BS) American Association of Textile Chemists American Association of Textile Chemists

and Colorists (AATCC)and Colorists (AATCC) Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS)Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS) European Committee for Standardization European Committee for Standardization

(CEN)(CEN)

Page 13: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

What are the specifications for Swimwear?

Are there any difference between swimwear and other knitted and woven fabrics?

What make the difference?

Page 14: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Specification for Knitted and Woven Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)

CharacteristicsCharacteristics RequirementRequirement

KnittedKnitted WovenWoven

Breaking strength ASTM D5034Breaking strength ASTM D5034

Bursting strength ASTM D 3787 (bursting Bursting strength ASTM D 3787 (bursting attachment)attachment)

Yarn slippage, 6mm (separation) ASTM D Yarn slippage, 6mm (separation) ASTM D 434434

Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424

Dimensional Change AATCC 135Dimensional Change AATCC 135 Pressing and finishing Pressing and finishing After 5 launderings (shrinkage > 3%)- After 5 launderings (shrinkage > 3%)-

testing stretchtesting stretch Growth ASTM D 2594Growth ASTM D 2594

ColourfastnessColourfastness Burnt Gas Fumes – 2 cycles AATCC 23Burnt Gas Fumes – 2 cycles AATCC 23

Shade change from original fabricShade change from original fabric

Shade change after 1 launderingShade change after 1 laundering

--

222N222N

--

--

2% max2% max

3% max3% max

3% max3% max

Class 4Class 4

Class 4Class 4

111N (25 lbf)111N (25 lbf)

--

89N (20lbf)89N (20lbf)

6.7 N (1.5lbf)6.7 N (1.5lbf)

1% max (pre-finished)1% max (pre-finished)

2% max (post-2% max (post-finished)finished)

3% max3% max

Class 4Class 4

Class 4Class 4

Page 15: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Specification for Knitted and Woven Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)

CharacteristicsCharacteristics RequiremeRequirementnt

KnittedKnitted WovenWoven

Colourfastness Colourfastness Laundering: colour change AATCC 61Laundering: colour change AATCC 61

stainingstainingCrocking: Dry AATCC 116Crocking: Dry AATCC 116

WetWetPerspiration: Shade Change AATCC 15Perspiration: Shade Change AATCC 15

StainingStainingLight Light (40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc) AATCC 16(40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc) AATCC 16Water: Chlorinated Water: Chlorinated Fabric Appearance Fabric Appearance AATCC 124, AATCC 96AATCC 124, AATCC 96Flammability FFA Part 1610Flammability FFA Part 1610

Class 4Class 4

Class 3Class 3

Class 4Class 4

Class 3Class 3

Class 4Class 4

Class 3Class 3

Class 4Class 4

Class 4Class 4

DP 3.5DP 3.5

PassPass

Class 4Class 4

Class 3Class 3

Class 4Class 4

Class 3Class 3

Class 4Class 4

Class 3Class 3

Class 4Class 4

Class 4Class 4

DP 3.5DP 3.5

PassPass

Page 16: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Specification for Knitted Swimwear (ASTM Specification for Knitted Swimwear (ASTM D 3996)D 3996)

CharacteristicsCharacteristics RequirementRequirement

TestTest RequirementRequirement

Bursting strength (Ball bursting)Bursting strength (Ball bursting)

Dimensional Change Dimensional Change

LaunderingLaunderingNon-stretchNon-stretchStretchStretch

Wet relaxation or growth Wet relaxation or growth

Dry relaxation or growthDry relaxation or growth

ColourfastnessColourfastness Burnt Gas Fumes – 1 cycles Burnt Gas Fumes – 1 cycles

- Shade change from original fabric and - Shade change from original fabric and after 1 after 1

laundering cyclelaundering cycle-Sodium Hypochlorite bleachSodium Hypochlorite bleach-Non-chlorine bleachNon-chlorine bleach LaunderingLaundering

Shade changeShade change

StainingStaining

ASTM D 3787ASTM D 3787

AATCC 135AATCC 135

AATCC 23AATCC 23

AATCC 188AATCC 188

AATCC 172AATCC 172

AATCC 61AATCC 61

30 lbf (133N)30 lbf (133N)

5% max5% max

7.5% max7.5% max

10% max10% max

5% max5% max

Class 4Class 4

Class 4Class 4

Class 4Class 4

Class 4Class 4

Class 3Class 3

Page 17: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Specification for Knitted and Woven Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)

CharacteristicsCharacteristics RequirementRequirement

TestTest RequirementRequirement

Colourfastness Colourfastness Crocking: DryCrocking: Dry

WetWetPerspiration: Shade ChangePerspiration: Shade Change

StainingStainingSea water: Shade ChangeSea water: Shade ChangeOzone: Shade changeOzone: Shade changeLight (40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc)Light (40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc)Flammability FFA Part 1610Flammability FFA Part 1610

AATCC 8 (solid)/ AATCC 8 (solid)/ AATCC 116 AATCC 116 (print)(print)

AATCC 15AATCC 15

AATCC 106AATCC 106

AATCC 129AATCC 129

AATCC 16AATCC 16

Class 4Class 4

Class 3Class 3

Class 4Class 4

Class 3Class 3

Class 4Class 4

Class 3Class 3

Class 4Class 4

PassPass

Page 18: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Buyer’s Specification for Knitted Buyer’s Specification for Knitted SwimwearSwimwear

CharacteristicsCharacteristicsTestTest RequirementRequirement

Mass per square meter Mass per square meter

Force & Elongation Force & Elongation

Dimensional Change (Drying tumble)Dimensional Change (Drying tumble)

ColourfastnessColourfastness Nitrogen OxideNitrogen OxideArtificial LightArtificial LightWashing at 40°CWashing at 40°CWaterWaterSea waterSea waterChlorinated waterChlorinated waterPerspirationPerspirationDry RubbingDry RubbingWet RubbingWet Rubbing

Fibre CompositionFibre Composition

ISO 3801ISO 3801

ISO 5077ISO 5077

BS 4294BS 4294

ISO 105G/01ISO 105G/01

ISO 105B/02ISO 105B/02

ISO 105C06ISO 105C06

ISO 105E01ISO 105E01

ISO 105E02ISO 105E02

ISO 105E03ISO 105E03

ISO 105E04ISO 105E04

ISO 105X12ISO 105X12

ISO 105X12ISO 105X12

ISO 1833ISO 1833

±3%±3%

±10%±10%

±3%±3%

4/54/5

44

44

44

44

44

44

44

44¾

±3%±3%

Page 19: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

What are the What are the different between different between

testing testing swimwear/fabrics swimwear/fabrics and commercial and commercial apparel fabrics?apparel fabrics?

Page 20: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Fabric with StretchFabric with Stretch

Most fabrics used for Most fabrics used for swimwear are elasticswimwear are elastic

By insertion of Spandex/ By insertion of Spandex/ Lycra etc.Lycra etc.

All elastic yarns are covered All elastic yarns are covered with a layers of fibres/ with a layers of fibres/ filamentsfilaments

Two ways of covering: air-Two ways of covering: air-jet and wrappingjet and wrapping

Page 21: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Fabric AnalysisFabric Analysis Standard Conditions:Standard Conditions: Pre-conditioned:Pre-conditioned: Stored the specimen in chamber with Stored the specimen in chamber with Temperature < 50°CTemperature < 50°C Relative humidity: 10 to 25 %Relative humidity: 10 to 25 % Conditioned:Conditioned: BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2%BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2% ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2%ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2% What types of tests are required to carry out in What types of tests are required to carry out in

controlled condition?controlled condition?

Page 22: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Fabric AnalysisFabric Analysis

Standard Conditions:Standard Conditions: Pre-conditioned:Pre-conditioned: Conditioned:Conditioned: BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2%BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2% ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2%ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2% What types of tests are required to What types of tests are required to

carry out in controlled condition?carry out in controlled condition?

Page 23: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Tensile StrengthTensile Strength For fabric with stretch < 11%For fabric with stretch < 11% To obtain the breaking load and elongation at To obtain the breaking load and elongation at

break of a textile fabricbreak of a textile fabric Grab test: 1-inch grab (ASTM D 5034, JIS L Grab test: 1-inch grab (ASTM D 5034, JIS L

1096, ISO 13934-2:99)1096, ISO 13934-2:99) Strip test: 2-inch strip test (ASTM D5035, JIS L Strip test: 2-inch strip test (ASTM D5035, JIS L

1096, ISO 13934-1)1096, ISO 13934-1)clamp

clamp

3 inches

200 mmGrab Test Strip

Test

Page 24: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Tensile StrengthTensile Strength

Load and Elongation Curve

Page 25: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Tearing StrengthTearing Strength

Tearing strength refers to the force required to Tearing strength refers to the force required to break a group of yarns (max. up to 3 pieces) break a group of yarns (max. up to 3 pieces) together by tearing off the fabric.together by tearing off the fabric.

There are various types of tearing depends on There are various types of tearing depends on application.application.

Page 26: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Tearing StrengthTearing Strength

ElmendorfElmendorf Only for warp-direction of Only for warp-direction of

warp knit and wovenwarp knit and woven ASTM D1424-96ASTM D1424-96 JIS L 1096JIS L 1096

Tongue TearTongue Tear Single ripSingle rip ASTM D 2261-96ASTM D 2261-96 JIS L 1096JIS L 1096

Page 27: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Elmendorf Tearing Elmendorf Tearing StrengthStrength

Criteria: The tearing

strength must be within 80% of the centre capacity.

What happen if the tearing load is at the 95% of the max loading?

Release the weight to tear off the fabric

Page 28: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Bursting Strength (most Bursting Strength (most common for knitted fabrics)common for knitted fabrics) Bursting is radial or multi-directional Bursting is radial or multi-directional

breaking strength.breaking strength. There are two types of bursting strength: There are two types of bursting strength:

ball bursting and hydraulic bursting.ball bursting and hydraulic bursting. Multi-directional force from a steel ball is Multi-directional force from a steel ball is

push up the fabric held in flat until push up the fabric held in flat until rupture.rupture.

Multi-directional force from pressure of an Multi-directional force from pressure of an inflated diaphragm is applied on fabric inflated diaphragm is applied on fabric until rupture.until rupture.

Page 29: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Bursting StrengthBursting Strength

Page 30: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Bursting StrengthBursting Strength Diaphragm bursting Diaphragm bursting For knitted swimwear or woven swimwear with stretch > For knitted swimwear or woven swimwear with stretch >

20%20% ISO 13938-1:99/BS 4768, ASTM D 3786-87ISO 13938-1:99/BS 4768, ASTM D 3786-87

Ballistic ball bursting For high strength fabric or high stretch fabric ASTM D 3787-80

Page 31: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Bursting StrengthBursting Strength

Radial extension Hydraulic

diaphragm bursting

Bursting pressure= P(f+d) - P(d)

Page 32: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Fabric StretchFabric Stretch

Stretched the fabric in defined load/ length

Keep the stretched fabric for defined time

Measure the change of L

L

Page 33: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Fabric Stretch and Fabric Stretch and GrowthGrowth

Stretch = (L2 – L1) x 100%L1

L2: extended length under load

L1: original length

L2

L1

Page 34: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Fabric Stretch and Fabric Stretch and GrowthGrowth

Growth = (L3 – L1) x 100%L1

L3: extended length after released

L1: original length

L3

L1

Page 35: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Dimensional Changes of Dimensional Changes of Fabric after Home LaunderingFabric after Home Laundering

Page 36: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Dimensional StabilityDimensional Stability Maintenance of the shape and dimensions of a Maintenance of the shape and dimensions of a

textile product can be a significant factor in its textile product can be a significant factor in its acceptance by consumers.acceptance by consumers.

Terminology:Terminology: ““Refurbishing” is used to describe any of a Refurbishing” is used to describe any of a

number of process that textiles may undergo to number of process that textiles may undergo to remove soil and stains and to restore the remove soil and stains and to restore the appearance of the items.appearance of the items.

Two most common refurbishing methods are Two most common refurbishing methods are “laundering” and “dry-cleaning”.“laundering” and “dry-cleaning”.

Page 37: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Dimensional StabilityDimensional Stability

Refurbishing Refurbishing A) LaunderingA) Laundering

It is based on the use of water as a solventIt is based on the use of water as a solvent Water is effective in dissolving water-based spots and stainsWater is effective in dissolving water-based spots and stains Detergents are laundering aids used to enhance cleaningDetergents are laundering aids used to enhance cleaning

B) Dry-cleaningB) Dry-cleaning It requires the use of organic solvents to dissolve oily soils It requires the use of organic solvents to dissolve oily soils

and stains, such as body oils, waxes, fats and makeupand stains, such as body oils, waxes, fats and makeup Because only a minimal amount of water is used, fibres do Because only a minimal amount of water is used, fibres do

not swell significantly and therefore, do not shrink as much.not swell significantly and therefore, do not shrink as much.

Page 38: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Dimensional StabilityDimensional Stability

Dimensional stability refers to a fabric’s ability to Dimensional stability refers to a fabric’s ability to resist a change in its dimensions.resist a change in its dimensions.

A fabric or garment may exhibit A fabric or garment may exhibit shrinkage or growthshrinkage or growth under conditions of refurbishing.under conditions of refurbishing.

Items are especially affected by the Items are especially affected by the moisture and moisture and heat used in washing, tumble drying, and in steaming heat used in washing, tumble drying, and in steaming and pressing.and pressing.

There are various ways that need to shrinkage occur There are various ways that need to shrinkage occur when textiles are subjected to heat and/or moisture.when textiles are subjected to heat and/or moisture.

Page 39: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

What are the causes of What are the causes of Dimensional Instability?Dimensional Instability?

Relaxation Shrinkage:Relaxation Shrinkage: Results of relaxation of stress of fabricResults of relaxation of stress of fabric

Progressive ShrinkageProgressive Shrinkage Dimensional change that continues through successive Dimensional change that continues through successive

washingwashing

GrowthGrowth Shrinks in length results grow in widthShrinks in length results grow in width

Yarn Reduction/ Thermal shrinkageYarn Reduction/ Thermal shrinkage It occurs in thermoplastic fibres.It occurs in thermoplastic fibres. Upon imposition of heat, fabrics/polymer molecules move Upon imposition of heat, fabrics/polymer molecules move

more randomly, nonlinear form and thus decrease the more randomly, nonlinear form and thus decrease the lengthlength

Page 40: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Relaxation ShrinkageRelaxation Shrinkage

Dry state: Yarns are stretched Dry state: Yarns are stretched and temporarily set.and temporarily set.

Release of strains Release of strains Energy releasedEnergy released IrreversibleIrreversible Need several washings to min & Need several washings to min &

stable energy level.stable energy level.

Page 41: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Causes of stretching Causes of stretching (Woven)(Woven)

WarpingWarping WeavingWeaving Wet-finishing, dyeing printing etc.Wet-finishing, dyeing printing etc.

Page 42: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Causes of Extension Causes of Extension (Knitted)(Knitted)

Take-down tension of the knitting m/cTake-down tension of the knitting m/c Sewing or spreading of the knitted Sewing or spreading of the knitted

goodsgoods

Page 43: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Fibre Level: ProgressiveFibre Level: Progressive

Progressive ShrinkageProgressive Shrinkage Fibre SwellingFibre Swelling Fibre movement within Fibre movement within

the textile structurethe textile structure

What causes progressiveWhat causes progressive

shrinkage more serious?shrinkage more serious? Alkaline mediumAlkaline medium Higher temperatureHigher temperature Greater freedom of Greater freedom of

movement.movement.

Page 44: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

How does fibre swelling would lead to How does fibre swelling would lead to fabric shrinkage?fabric shrinkage?

Fibre swellingFibre swelling Yarn Yarn swellingswelling

Balance of forceBalance of force If so, how to solve the If so, how to solve the

problem of shrinkage due problem of shrinkage due to fibre swelling?to fibre swelling?

Page 45: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Contraction of Yarn Contraction of Yarn

Decrease in length of yarnDecrease in length of yarn Normally by heat/ high temperatureNormally by heat/ high temperature Synthetic filament is most sensitiveSynthetic filament is most sensitive How to reduce the shrinkage How to reduce the shrinkage

situation?situation?

Page 46: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Dimensional StabilityDimensional Stability

Shrinkage MeasurementShrinkage Measurement BS 5807/ BS 4923BS 5807/ BS 4923 AATCC 135 (fabric)AATCC 135 (fabric) AATCC 61 (garment)AATCC 61 (garment) Report on 1st and last washesReport on 1st and last washes Benchmarks the length of 50cm or Benchmarks the length of 50cm or

25cm apart for both warp and weft 25cm apart for both warp and weft directionsdirections

Measure the dimension of products Measure the dimension of products after treatmentafter treatment

Shrinkage % = Shrinkage % = Original - after wash Original - after wash x 100% x 100%

Original lengthOriginal lengthGrowth is positiveGrowth is positiveShrinkage is negativeShrinkage is negative

Page 47: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Dimensional InstabilityDimensional Instability Results Interpretation Results Interpretation

For apparel products, the required For apparel products, the required maximum shrinkage or growth usually maximum shrinkage or growth usually are dependent on types of products. are dependent on types of products.

For woven fabrics: usually maximum For woven fabrics: usually maximum shrinkage after laundering is 2.0 to shrinkage after laundering is 2.0 to 3.0%3.0%

For knitted fabrics: allowance for For knitted fabrics: allowance for shrinkage is higher, usually 5.0%shrinkage is higher, usually 5.0%

For stretch fabric: allowance for For stretch fabric: allowance for shrinkage will be higher.shrinkage will be higher.

Page 48: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

ColorfastnessColorfastnessAATCC Definition of ColorfastnessAATCC Definition of Colorfastness Resistance of a material to any Resistance of a material to any

change in any of its color change in any of its color characteristics, characteristics,

Transfer of its colorants to adjacent, Transfer of its colorants to adjacent, or bothor both

after exposure to any environmentafter exposure to any environment

Page 49: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Color Loss during daily Color Loss during daily usesuses

FrostingFrosting

BleedingBleeding

FadingFading

YellowingYellowing

CrockingCrocking

Color leaves the surface of fabric due to abrasion. (Detaches)

Migration of color from wet fabric into water and then to others.

Lightening of color due to loss or breakdown of dye.

The change of color base to a very yellow version of a color.

Transfer of a color to another surface through rubbing

Page 50: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

50

Bleeding Bleeding pipingpiping

Page 51: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

51

Color loss Color loss inin

drycleanindrycleaningg

Page 52: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

52

FrostingFrosting

Page 53: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

53

Light fadingLight fading

Page 54: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Evaluation of Color Evaluation of Color change/ Staining (Visual change/ Staining (Visual

Assessment)Assessment) Gray Scale for Color ChangeGray Scale for Color Change Gray Scale for StainingGray Scale for Staining Chromatic ScaleChromatic Scale Blue Wool Standard (Light Fastness)Blue Wool Standard (Light Fastness)

Page 55: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Gray Scale for Color Gray Scale for Color ChangeChange

Nine steps of color difference by stationary pairs of Nine steps of color difference by stationary pairs of gray chipsgray chips

Half step ratingHalf step rating 5 indicates no difference (two gray chips with same 5 indicates no difference (two gray chips with same

color)color) 1 indicates extreme difference1 indicates extreme difference Neutral gray = 12 ±1%Neutral gray = 12 ±1%

Page 56: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002:Gray Scale for Colour Change Fabric Sample Size: 6 x 6 cmSolution: Acid Perspiration

GRADE * GRAY SCALE

5 No change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 5

4.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4-5

4 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4

3.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3-4

3 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3

2.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2.3

2 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2

1.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1-2

1 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1

* 5 = no colour difference 1 = highest degree of colour

difference

Fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test

Original fabric colour

1)1) Grey Scale for Assessing Variation of ColourGrey Scale for Assessing Variation of Colour

Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report

Page 57: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Gray Scale for Gray Scale for StainingStaining

Nine pairs of white and gray color chips.Nine pairs of white and gray color chips. Half step ratingHalf step rating 5 indicates no difference (2 white chips)5 indicates no difference (2 white chips) 1 indicates extreme difference1 indicates extreme difference Rating is based on the color difference of the gradually Rating is based on the color difference of the gradually

increase darkness gray chip and the white chipincrease darkness gray chip and the white chip

Page 58: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report

Original colour of multifiber test fabric

Multifiber test fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test

2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining

Page 59: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Multi-fibre FabricMulti-fibre Fabric

Warp: Filament Warp: Filament Dacron 55Dacron 55

Weft: multi-fibre Weft: multi-fibre fabricfabric

AcetateAcetate CottonCotton NylonNylon PolyesterPolyester AcrylicAcrylic WoolWool

Page 60: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002: Colourfastness to PerspirationAATCC Chromatic Transference ScaleMultifiber Test Fabric Solution: Acid Perspiration

GRADE GRAY SCALE

5 Negligible or no color transfer

4.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 4-5 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

4 Color transfer equivalent to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

3.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 3-4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

3 Color transfer equivalent to Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

2.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 2-3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

2 Color transfer equivalent to Step 2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

1.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 1-2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

1 Color transfer equivalent to Step 1 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report

2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining

Page 61: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Visual Assessment Visual Assessment MethodMethod

Light Sources:Light Sources: Daylight D-65 (North Daylight D-65 (North

Sky light)Sky light) White fluorescentWhite fluorescent/ /

UVUV Viewing angle:Viewing angle:

Specimen is 45° froSpecimen is 45° from horizontalm horizontal

Viewing perpendicuViewing perpendicular to the specimenlar to the specimen

Page 62: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Color fastness to Color fastness to LaunderingLaundering

Sewn the specimen to a Sewn the specimen to a white cotton fabric/ multi-white cotton fabric/ multi-fibre fabricfibre fabric

Wash using the Wash using the LaunderOmeter LaunderOmeter

Assessment:Assessment: Color change (Grey scale Color change (Grey scale

for color change)for color change) Staining (Grey scale for Staining (Grey scale for

staining)staining)

Page 63: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Colorfastness to Colorfastness to LaunderingLaundering

LaunderOmeter

Page 64: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Wash Test ISO 105-Wash Test ISO 105-C06C06

Test Test no.no.

TemTemp. p. °C°C

pHpH Liquor Liquor 4g/l 4g/l detergedetergentnt

Cl %Cl % Sodium Sodium perboraperboratete

No. of No. of steel steel balls balls single single 30 mins30 mins

No. of steel No. of steel balls balls multiplemultiple45 mins45 mins

A1A1 4040 150150 00 00 00 1010

A2A2 4040 150150 00 11 00 1010

B1B1 5050 150150 00 00 00 5050

B2B2 5050 150150 00 11 00 5050

C1C1 6060 10.510.5 5050 00 00 2525 5050

C2C2 6060 10.510.5 5050 00 11 2525 5050

D1D1 7070 10.510.5 5050 00 00 2525 100100

D2D2 7070 10.510.5 5050 00 11 2525 100100

D3D3 7070 10.510.5 5050 0.010.0155

00 2525 100100

E1E1 9595 10.510.5 5050 00 00 2525 100100

E2E2 9595 10.510.5 5050 00 11 2525 100100

Page 65: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Color Fastness to Color Fastness to CrockingCrocking

Rub the fabric with a Rub the fabric with a white cotton fabricwhite cotton fabric

10 cycles in 10 seconds10 cycles in 10 seconds Dry rubbing Dry rubbing Wet rubbingWet rubbing Assessment on mainly Assessment on mainly

on stainingon staining

Page 66: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Colorfastness to Colorfastness to Perspiration/ Water/ Sea Perspiration/ Water/ Sea

WaterWater It is designed to It is designed to

determine the colour determine the colour fastness of textiles to fastness of textiles to perspiration, water, perspiration, water, sea water.sea water.

BS 1006, BS EN 20105, BS 1006, BS EN 20105, ISO 105, AATCC 15ISO 105, AATCC 15

Perspirometer

Page 67: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

1)1) Soak test 6 X 6 cm specimen in Soak test 6 X 6 cm specimen in the perspiration solution for 30 the perspiration solution for 30 ±2min.±2min.

2) Pass specimen through 2) Pass specimen through wringerwringer

3) Weight specimen. Should be 2.25 ±.05 times the original dry weight.

ProceduresProcedures

Page 68: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

4) Place assembled multi-fiber fabric 4) Place assembled multi-fiber fabric & specimen on a glass plate.& specimen on a glass plate.

5) Place the plates in the perspiration 5) Place the plates in the perspiration tester to provide uniform contact tester to provide uniform contact between the multi-fiber & fabric between the multi-fiber & fabric sample under a standard load. sample under a standard load. Then, secure the Then, secure the pressure platepressure plate

6) Heat loaded specimen into oven at 38ºC for 6hr

7) Place in conditioned atmosphere overnight (21ºC, 65% RH).

ProceduresProcedures

Page 69: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002:Gray Scale for Colour Change Fabric Sample Size: 6 x 6 cmSolution: Acid Perspiration

GRADE * GRAY SCALE

5 No change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 5

4.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4-5

4 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4

3.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3-4

3 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3

2.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2.3

2 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2

1.5 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1-2

1 A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1

* 5 = no colour difference 1 = highest degree of colour

difference

Fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test

Original fabric colour

1)1) Grey Scale for Assessing Variation of ColourGrey Scale for Assessing Variation of Colour

Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report

Page 70: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report

Original colour of multifiber test fabric

Multifiber test fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test

2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining

Page 71: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002: Colourfastness to PerspirationAATCC Chromatic Transference ScaleMultifiber Test Fabric Solution: Acid Perspiration

GRADE GRAY SCALE

5 Negligible or no color transfer

4.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 4-5 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

4 Color transfer equivalent to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

3.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 3-4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

3 Color transfer equivalent to Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

2.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 2-3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

2 Color transfer equivalent to Step 2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

1.5 Color transfer equivalent to Step 1-2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

1 Color transfer equivalent to Step 1 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

Evaluation & ReportEvaluation & Report

2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining

Page 72: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Color fastness to LightColor fastness to Light

Using the Blue Wool Using the Blue Wool standard for assessmentstandard for assessment

By gradeBy grade ISO 105 B02ISO 105 B02 BS 1006 D01BS 1006 D01 By fading unitBy fading unit AATCC 16EAATCC 16E

Page 73: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Assessment for Light FastnAssessment for Light Fastnessess

Measurement of Colorfastness to light for Measurement of Colorfastness to light for AATCC standard is measured the fading units.AATCC standard is measured the fading units.

Specimen = grayscale G4, ? Step of bluewool it is?Specimen = grayscale G4, ? Step of bluewool it is?

?4

L2

L3

L4

L5

L6

L7

L8

L9

Page 74: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Assessment for Light FastnessAssessment for Light Fastness Before exposure to the Xenon light source, the Before exposure to the Xenon light source, the

light source is required to be checked by the light source is required to be checked by the Blue Wool StandardBlue Wool Standard

Standard hours, specimen = Grayscale ? StepStandard hours, specimen = Grayscale ? Step

? 10 to 40 hours

Page 75: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Flammability standards for Flammability standards for normal wearing apparel normal wearing apparel

StandardsStandards Class 1: Normal flammability (suitable for clothing). Class 1: Normal flammability (suitable for clothing).

Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or more for non-raised fibre Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or more for non-raised fibre fabrics fabrics

Flame spread is 7.0 seconds or more for raised fibre fabrics.Flame spread is 7.0 seconds or more for raised fibre fabrics. Class 2: Intermediate flammability. Class 2: Intermediate flammability.

Flame spread is from 4 to 7 seconds and the base fabric Flame spread is from 4 to 7 seconds and the base fabric ignites or fuses.ignites or fuses.

Class 3: Rapid and intense burning (unsuitable for clothing). Class 3: Rapid and intense burning (unsuitable for clothing). Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or less for non-raised fibre Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or less for non-raised fibre

fabrics fabrics Flame spread is less than 4.0 seconds for raised fibre Flame spread is less than 4.0 seconds for raised fibre

fabrics.fabrics.

Page 76: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

Time required for the flame to proceed up Time required for the flame to proceed up to a distance of 5 in (127 mm) is recorded.to a distance of 5 in (127 mm) is recorded.

The automatic timer can be stopped by The automatic timer can be stopped by breaking the stop cord at 5 inches length breaking the stop cord at 5 inches length from the starting position.from the starting position.

45°

Fire source

Cotton string

Timer

Flammability Test (45°)Flammability Test (45°)

Page 77: Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

END END

Product EvaluationProduct Evaluation