Leader: Christian Boix - Tropical Birding

Gabon 2010 31st July – 19th August

Gabon A Tropical Birding Set Departure Tour

31st

July – 19th

August 2010

Leader: Christian Boix All photos taken on tour

INTRODUCTION

This trip report describes the mainland portions of our 2010 Gabon, Sao Tome and Principe Islands Tour – an unforgettable experience, considering the riches offered by all the enclaves visited. The main aim of the Gabon mainland sectors (Libreville, Lope National Park, Makokou, Ivindo River basin, the Bateke Plateau at Lekoni, as well as Loango NP) were to sample a gamut of enigmatic forest species, difficult to see elsewhere in Africa, which in Gabon can be seen with greater regularity. The dry weather encountered during our trip did not help much, bird parties were few and breeding was somewhat stalled and birding was slow. We were indeed at mercy of all the demands and rigors that birding tropical rainforests necessitate, but despite this fact the list of pickings was rewardingly impressive, and certainly of the highest quality, throughout the trip. We had a unique chance to visit some of the best lowland forests in Africa, traipsed endlessly through healthy rainforests, cruised some of the continent’s most remote areas and glided down the most evocative

Gabon: Lower Guinea Forest Rarities 31st July-19th August

2

waterways in Central Africa. The main highlights included: White-crested Bittern, Hartlaub’s Duck, African Finfoot, Bat Hawk, Congo Serpent Eagle, Long-tailed Hawk, Ayre’s and Cassin’s Hawk Eagle, Pel’s and Vermiculated Fishing Owls, Hottentot Buttonquail, Finsch’s and Latham’s Forest Francolin, Black and Plumed Guineafowl, Forbes’s Plover, African Skimmer, Rock Pratincole, Gabon Coucal, Thick-billed Cuckoo, Bates’s, Brown, Swamp and Long-tailed Nightjars, Black Spinetail, Mottled and Bates’s Swift, Rosy, Black-headed, and Black Bee-eaters, Blue-throated Roller, White-crested, Black-casqued and Black Dwarf Hornbills, Bare-cheeked Trogon, Blue-breasted, White-bellied, African Dwarf, Shinning and Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, Damara Tern, Bristle-nosed, Naked-faced, Yellow-billed and Black-backed Barbets, Spotted, Thickbilled, Willcock’s and Lyre-tailed Honeyguides, Malbrant’s Lark, Long-legged, Woodland and Short-tailed Pipits, African and Rufous-sided Broadbill, Gray-necked Rockfowl, Red-throated Cliff Swallow, Red-chested and White-throated Blue Swallow, African River Martin, Blue Cuckooshrike, Gray Ground Thrush, Black-collared Neolestes (Bulbul), Congo Moor Chat, Dja River Warbler, Fan-tailed Grassbird, Teke and Dambo Cisticola, Gosling’s Apalis, Lowland Masked Apalis, Salvadori’s Eremomela, Violet-backed Hyliota, Yellow-footed Flycatcher, Rufous-vented and Bates’s Paradise Flycatchers, White-spotted and Yellow-bellied Wattle-eyes, Dusky Tit, West African and Angola Batis, Red-capped Crombec, Violet-tailed, Mouse-brown and Johanna’s Sunbird, Souza’s Shrike, Fiery-breasted and Perrin’s Bush-Shrike, Rufous-bellied Helmetshrike, Cassin’s and Rachel’s Malimbe, Black-chinned and Loango Weaver, Black-chinned Quailfinch, Locust Finch, Magpie Mannikin, Black-headed Waxbill, Black-bellied Seedcracker and Black-faced Canary. Mammal highlights included Humpback Whales, Dugong, African Forest Elephant, Hippopotamus, African Forest Buffalo, Sitatunga, Chimpanzee, Black Colobus, Grey-cheeked and Red-capped Mangabey, Crowned, Putty-nosed and Moustached Monkeys, Swamp Otter, Giant Squirrel, Beecroft’s Anomalure to mention some, All in all we logged an impressive 400 bird species tally. Supported by a 31 mammal cast over a 20-day trip. Add to this our extremely successful Sao Tome and Principe portion of the tour and you will understand how Gabon 2010 will be a tour hard to forget by all who partook on the adventure. Check the STP trip report to see how we did on that sector. ITINERARY Saturday 31st July Visit to Bambouchine mangroves and Moka River estuary, near Akanda NP Sunday 1st August Birdwatching Mondah Forest, Cap Esterias and transfer to Lope by train. Monday 2nd August AM walk around Lope Hotel grounds and PM drive into Lope NP Tuesday 3rd August AM Birding in Lope NP and PM birding selected sites near Lope Hotel Wednesday 4th August AM Birding in Lope NP and PM circular hike in gallery forest at Lope NP Thursday 5th August Depart Lope for Makoukou via Boue. Friday 6th August Am Birding at Liboumba River and PM birding at Ipassa Research Station Saturday 7th August Full day birding at Ipassa Research Station Sunday 8th August Full day Gray-necked Rockfowl Expedition Monday 9th August Full day birding at Ipassa Research Station and short visit to Liboumba River vicinity Tuesday 10th August Full and long day day drive from Makoukou to Lekoni, via Akieni. Wednesday 11th August AM birding Gaspier track and PM birding Old canyons track in Lekoni Thursday 12th August AM birding Cirque Rouge Grasslands and PM birding the Edjangoulou track Friday 13th August AM birding the Old canyons track with noon transfer to Franceville for flight back to

Libreville in afternoon.


3 Saturday 14th August Early AM flight to Port Gentil and transfer by boat to Ogoue and Loango NP. PM birding in

Ste. Catherine beach (Loango NP) Sunday 15th August Full day birding Mpivie River, Ste Anne Mission, Chemvere lagoon and night boat ride back

at Mpivie River (Loango NP) Monday 16th August Full day visit to Akaka area (Loango NP) Tuesday 17th August Opaka Forest and Ste Catherine Estuary (Loango NP) Wednesday 18th August AM birding at Mpivie River and PM birding around the lodge (Loango NP) Thursday 19th August AM transfer to Ogoue and Port Gentil with fly back to Libreville in afternoon.

TRIP ACCOUNT MOKA RIVER Although the original idea was to be headed for Lope NP, ever-changing flight schedules in Gabon forced us to stay an extra day in Libreville, thus we decided to visit Akanda NP and drift down to the Moka River since estuaries and mangroves were poorly represented habitats in this itinerary. A peaceful morning drift along the waterways of the Moka River gave us a chance to enjoy some of Gabon’s pickings namely Blue-breasted, Woodland Kingfisher and the diminutive Malachite Kingfisher. Flying overhead Rosy Bee-eaters challenged the stability and buoyancy of our dugout canoe as everyone cranked their necks and bodies to try get a better view of this stunning bee-eater. A stunning Yellow-crowned Woodpecker worked a snag whilst we feasted on the finding. From a sea of roots and mangrove rhizophores we teased out an immaculate Gabon Boubou, and a loquacious Yellow-breasted Apalis. Closer to the shore a Purple-throated Cuckooshrike perched in the open was called out, later joined by a flock of the unmistakeable Spotted Greenbul. The fluty calls of a Common Wattle-eye eased our chances of finding this handsome bird. Mistletoes and other flowering shrubs had become an irresistible magnet to a collective of very active sunbirds such as Reichenbach’s, Carmelite, Collared, Green-headed and the plainer Eastern Olive. A Grey-headed Negrofinch carrying nesting material was also enjoyed. Due to tide issues we elected to do a short hike towards the edge of Akanda NP. With the hot and humid heat building up relentlessly birding slowed down progressively, nevertheless we still managed to connect with a classy bag of forest and forest edge treats. It took very little to summon up a Red-rumped Tinkerbird, a Yellow-throated Tinkerbird, a Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird and a Hairy-breasted Barbet one by one, and enjoy close up views of these highly responsive and smartly coloured barbets. Lemon Dove and Blue-spotted Wood Dove cleared the path ahead of us, whilst Little Greenbul called from every tangle we walked past. A small flock provided great views of Brown-eared Woodpecker, Yellow-spotted Nicator and Black-winged Oriole. A shy Gray Woodpecker never stayed long enough for the whole group to enjoy. In more open country we encountered our first large flocks of Rosy Bee-eaters, Splendid Glossy Starlings, flocks of the engaging Black and White Mannikins and its more hulky looking cousin the Pied Mannikin. A hawk eagle soaring lazily above our heads was photographed and studied in detail and resolved to be an Ayre’s Hawk Eagle. After a rather hot return walk we reached the moorings where our “boat” awaited. Sadly the fleet of available boats in the Moka River seems to decline and degrade as years go by and our skip was no exception, plugging the odd hole with our feet, bilging water every so often and having blindly placed our lives on a local mariner that liked to refer himself as “Le Grand Capitein” we hesitantly chugged our way towards the mouth of the Moka River. Large sand banks emerging during low tide offer several square miles of worm riddled strata, and fish trapped pools to swathes of migrating waders, herons, egrets, storks and terns. Large swan-like Pelicans were sighted miles before reaching the river mouth, a hard to miss Goliath Heron and the scarce Gray Heron were spotted on our approach. The mudflats were well frequented by Western Reef, Little and the elegant Great White Egret. Two unexpected Marabou Storks stood out like a sore thumb against the horizon and


4

several Woolly-necked Storks scoured the muds too. A lonely African Spoonbill was the only sighting we had of this species on this tour. An Osprey carrying a freshly caught fish flew by whilst hundreds of Palmnut Vultures were grounded on the muds, presumably feasting on small crabs. Scurrying about were hordes of White-fronted Plovers and the off Common Ringed Plover in the mix. Common Sandpipers and Curlew Sandpipers made up the bulk, but amidst Greenshank, Whimbrel, Curlew and even a Red Knot were teased out. A single fleeting sighting of a Damara Tern in the distance left us longing for a better one, but there were plenty Royal terns to feast on. Drizzle, gushing water and spray made the return trip far moister than we had hoped for, but as soon as we got back to Libreville, a good warm shower, a cold beer and a delicious menu to choose from, was all that was needed to re-vitalise ourselves and soon everyone was back to licking their whiskers after counting how many lifers the day had yielded. MONDAH FOREST With our train departing in the early evening and extra time in hand to do some birding we scurried off to the nearby forest of Mondah, in the Cape St Clara. Birding from the road is reasonably productive and given that successful birding in Gabon is directly proportional to time spent in its slow forests, we were not to delay the experience any further. En route to the forest we stopped for Long-legged Pipits scouring the road verge, Chattering Cisticolas that called incessantly from rank grass and a displaying Pin-tailed Whydah that brought the car to a sudden halt, as the driver mesmerised on the birds display. A small kettle of Little Swifts was worth scouring as in the midst two Mottled Spinetails were milked out. Reaching the forest Afep Pigeons were seen cruising above the canopy, the “cooing” of Western Bronze-naped Pigeon sounded from deep in the forest, and African Green Pigeons were seen feeding on various fruits. A lonely Lizard Buzzard atop a tall tree was scanning the forest edge below. A distant Klaas’s Cuckoos called from nearby Viellot’s and Village Weaver colonies, but it was the distinct call and shape of a different cuckoo that locked all our attention onto a pair of Thick-billed Cuckoos flying across the road and over us, a royal treat, especially since minutes later we managed to call in a flock of Rufous-bellied Helmetshrikes which perched and showed phenomenally well allowing for prolonged enjoyable scope views for all. Equally enthralling was following and watching a small group of Red-billed Dwarf Hornbills foraging in the canopy, only bettered by a family of Blue-throated Rollers hawking from a nearby snag. Singletons of Purple-headed Glossy Starlings flew over our heads across the road. As the morning warmed up Gray-throated Barbets and a gamut of tinkerbirds and barbets spotted the previous day put in an appearance. Bulbuls and Greenbuls became more active and vocal and soon we had clocked up Golden, Slender-billed, Little, Common and Swamp. Equally apparent was a battery of great looking sunbirds like Reichenbach’s and Carmelite, Superb, Olive-bellied, an unexpected Tiny and Little Green Sunbird. At an open grassland patch we flushed a Square-tailed Nightjar and enjoyed great views of Orange-cheeked Waxbills, Blue-breasted Bee-eaters and close up views of Rosy Bee-eaters. But the one sighting that took the cake was the unexpected and improbable finding of a very large Lowland Gorilla footprint, clearly a young disperser from the nearby Akanda NP…and we were merely 30 kms away from bustling Libreville. After lunch we returned to the hotel briefly, and soon made way towards the train station. The usual chaos and pandemonium reigned. It took a bit of waiting, queuing and patience till we eventually boarded the Transgabonnaise. However, once comfortably seated in first class, the “rickety-track” motion and sound took its toll and we all slumbered. In our sleep the train rolled into the night, across verdant and luxurious forests, until well past midnight, when we were at Lope, and swiftly transferred to the nearby Lope Hotel, where staff and manager were awaiting our arrival.


5

Smokey velvet cloaks the Carmelite Sunbird (left) whilst Reichenbach’s Sunbird adds a dash of colour to suburban

shrubberies in Libreville (right) LOPE NP Renewing staff and management seems to be the norm in Gabon, and Lope Hotel, had also seen the exodus and arrival of an entirely new suite of staff. Fortunately they did not need any priming and we were treated like kings during our stay, with early breakfasts and late suppers when needed, ready to go take away lunches when requested and resolve when any of our rooms failed to be adequate, for whatever plumbing challenge. Our stay could not have kick-started with a greater plus as we balanced breakfast on our scopes whilst watching a troop of Chimpanzees gorge themselves in figs on a large tree across the valley, what a way to start a day! The gardens around us were alive with birdlife, a flurry of Viellot’s and Orange Weavers darting back and forth carrying nesting material. Dark-capped Bulbuls, African Thrushes and Yellow-throated Greenbuls swirling by with beaks filled with ripe fig. Double-toothed Barbets, African Green Pigeons, Pied, Piping and White-thighed Hornbills crowning the canopies of nearby fruiting trees, and over the lawns, flitting back and forth were countless Lesser Striped Swallows, Petit’s (Black) Saw-wings, Square-tailed Saw-wings, the odd Red-throated (Cliff) Swallow and a valiant white morph African Paradise Flycatcher trailing an impressive set of white streamers. Every now and then a flashing glimpse of an African Pygmy Kingfisher would spice up our meal. Birding the Ogoue’s edge and vast grasslands surrounding the premises was, as always, very productive. Next to reception we had our only sighting of Black-faced Canary, which was all too brief, but luckily followed with great views of Olive-bellied, Green-headed and Copper Sunbirds. The mango grove below the hotel produced some goodies such as Shinning Kingfisher and the shy Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat. More excitingly a skulking bushshrike of large proportions was spotted moving through the canopy, unlike Fiery-breasted this bird was not deeply entangled, but in broad open view, neither neck breaking high but a 4m off the ground. Its yellow and orange breast stood out, a white lore preceded a bright yellow eye and pale green wing coverts dappled its wing (ruling out a yellow-breasted morph of Fiery breasted), instinctively this could only be Grey-headed Bushshrike, and thus possibly a first record for Gabon and a considerable range extension, or very lost bird. Enjoying the slow rapids of the Ogoue River we scoped African Skimmers, several Rock Pratincoles, retiring White-headed Lapwings, ever-present Hamerkops, Three-banded Plovers, patient Pied Kingfishers and a hulking Giant Kingfisher. Fruiting figs along its edge attracted a number of species namely Little and Yellowthroated Greenbuls, Black-necked Weavers, both Gray-throated and Bristle-nosed Barbets, and carpets of Orange-cheeked Waxbills.


6

The mighty Ogoue River and its forested slopes as its snakes past Lope NP

The traipse through the grasslands was rather successful and got us several great opportunities to acquaint ourselves with coveted species such as Compact Weaver and several flocks of Red-billed (Black-chinned) Quailfinch peacefully feeding on the deck, the elegant Red-throated Swallow and much larger Rufous-chested Swallow. The “shankey” Long legged Pipit, bulky Flappet Lark and sexy Yellow-throated Longclaw. The taller grasses were abuzz with a smattering of engaging cisticolas such as Chattering, Siffling, Croaking, Winding, and Red-faced Cisticola, as well as the much larger Yellow-shouldered Widowbird. Ever watchful, a pair of Mackinnon’s Shrike, and hordes of Blue-breasted Bee-eaters, perched and scoured the fresh cut lawns around the lodge. Senegal Lapwings and Water Thick-knees policed the lawns as Forest Buffalo herds cruised across them. High above mixed flocks of Palm and Little Swifts and the more slender Bates’s Swift wheeled about.

Smart looking Compact Weaver (left) and the diminutive yet ornate Black-chinned Quailfinch (right)

The bridge before the park entrance proved to be a great spot to get great and definitive views on species such as Bat Hawk, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Shining Kingfisher, Cassin’s Flycatcher, Black and White Shrike Flycatcher, Green Crombec and not quite definitive but very exciting first glimpses of Black-bellied Seedcracker, but no Finfoot here this year. A brief drive into the park searching for Mandrills failed to clock the blue-nosed baboon-like animal but we did encounter the rather elusive Black Colobus, Forest Buffalo (and ensuing entourage of Yellow-billed Oxpeckers)


7

and Forest Elephant as well as Sitatunga. Birds were few in the savannahs but we still managed to see Klaas’s and Dideric Cuckoos, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Whistling Cisticola and a pair of rather large Marsh Cane Rats. We also enjoyed several views of the massive Black-casqued Wattled Hornbill, countless flocks of Grey Parrots, gliding Pied and Piping Hornbills, a wonderful pair of Great Blue Turacos and whilst driving over a small rivulet a big ginger surprise…our first Pel’s Fishing Owl of the trip, and what a way to end the day. Except for the fact that whilst driving out in the dark and with fires burning all over the reserve and plenty insects on the wing, a Brown Nightjar was sighted cashing on the bounty. On our second day, a highly dedicated hike to find Dja River Warbler turned up the goods faster than expected, we had merely arrived and positioned ourselves when the first few strophes of playback energized a displaying male to creep up close, flutter, call and perch several times in the open to our surprised delight. Whilst soaking in this elusive Bradypterus a Spotted Honeyguide flew by and all the while darting Black Crakes were seen crossing the wetland. A nest of Red-eyed Puffbacks with two chicks was being attended by the parents, and from the depths of a nearby forest we brought out to the edge a magnificent pair of Guinea Turacos. As we immersed ourselves into a healthy patch of gallery forest, our senses tuned into the crashing tell tale of nearby Forest Elephants, underfoot we noticed we were walking past Lowland Gorilla tracks and a very close troop of agitated Chimpanzees, all of which set a wonderful atmosphere. A moving bird flock high in the canopy got us merrily stuck for over an hour as we enjoyed great views of Rufous-bellied Helmetshrikes, several sightings of Fiery-breasted Bush-shrike, a distant calling Lyre-tailed Honeyguide, a pair of the dapper Chestnut Wattle-eye and calling Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye, Green-backed Woodpecker, Western Black-headed Oriole, acrobatic Shining Drongos, noisy Splendid and Purple-headed Glossy Starlings, smart looking Gray’s Malimbe, industrious and ubiquitous Icterine Greenbuls and the bulkier Red-tailed Greenbul, whilst White-bearded Greenbul and Yellow-spotted Nicator called deeper in the flock. Our ramble through this forest was slow thanks to meetings with African Forest Flycatcher, a maddeningly quick White-spotted Wattle-eye, a cryptic Green Hylia, a frustrated summoning of Long-tailed Hawk, smart looks at Black-headed Paradise flycatcher, several stealthy Rufous Flycatcher Thrushes, and glimpse views of Lowland Akalat. But the most enjoyable birds of the day were a very obliging Rufous-sided Broadbill that was found displaying and scoped, gawked at, and admired for over half an hour as it performed its mechanical drill. But also, a creep alongside a pair of foraging Brown-chested Alethes which we located by the sound of their rustlings in the leaf litter.

A comparative study of Cassin’s (left) and Sabine’s (right) Spinetails at Lope NP.

Over the following days we targeted a number of different types of forests searching to amass as much diversity as the Lope forests could deliver, thus through patient rambles, tireless whistling, some playback, stealthy waits and constant flock tracking we managed to catch up with a handsome list of forest specials such as Red-chested Goshawk, screeching Red-fronted Parrots, ululating Gabon Coucals, fascinating Sabines'and Cassins Spinetails, secretive White-bellied Kingfisher, very accommodating Chocolate-backed Kingfisher and


8

White-crested Hornbill, curious Yellow-billed Barbet, chunky Naked-faced Barbet, Speckled Tinkerbird, the diminutive Willcock’s Honeyguide and larger Thick-billed Honeyguide, Little Grey Greenbul, Honeyguide and Sjostedt’s Greenbuls, skulking Common Bristlebill, better views of White-bearded Greenbul, smart Red-tailed Ant-thrush, responsive Buff-throated Apalis, Common Wattle-eye, Black-headed Batis, a group of Chestnut-capped Flycatcher, Dusky Tit, funny looking Scarlet-tufted Sunbirds, Bates’s, Collared and Superb Sunbird, Black-throated (Cassins) Malimbe, and Forest Weaver to mention some. However two birds deserve a special mention, the first one was a fine specimen of Gray Ground Thrush that approached us as we were standing motionless calling for Chocolate-backed Kingfisher. The bird flew in and perched in front of us, allowing us to scope it and enjoy it just long enough, but as soon as cameras were pointed at it the bird shot off and despite an earnest search to re-sight it, all we added to the experience was the joy of hearing it call a few times. Nevertheless elation reigned as adding a scarce and rare Zoothera to anyone’s tally deserves a mindful notch. The other bird was Fan-tailed Grassbird which we somewhat were not expecting but managed several good views of along a grassy slope.

Having served justice on the forests of Lope NP, we set off towards the famous Ipassa Research Station, located on the banks of the Ivindo River, not far from the bustling town of Makoukou. To get there we set off early towards Boue watching nervously how this poorly frequented road narrowed in on us and at times barred us passage due to fallen limbs. However armed with pangas (machetes), and determination, we chopped and pushed our way through until we reach Boue. Waiting for the ferry we notched Leaflove, but the best bird of the day was undoubtedly a small flock of African River Martins wheeling over the rapids of the Ogoue River, six birds were hardly the flocks we were expecting, but despite the shortcoming in numbers everyone was very pleased to have this flagship species under the belt. Other hirundinids that spiced up the day included White-throated Blue Swallow, Wire-tailed Swallow and a small flock of Forest Swallows that was encountered along the way sallying low over the gravel road. Afep Pigeons were also seen flying over, as well as several Black-bellied Seedcrackers, White-crested Hornbills, Mottled Spinetails and Scaly Francolins crossing the road. A solitary Cassin’s Hawk-Eagle was sighted flying high above our heads and at Boue we encountered several Speckled Mousebirds, a strangely sparse species in Gabon. Darting back and forth the road next to our lunch spot a Red-thighed Sparrowhawk tried to secure its bounty, but soon enough a platoon of Swamp Greenbuls managed to get rid of him.


9

The enigmatic African River Martin (left) already paired up, and White-throated Blue Swallow (right) arguably one of

Africa’s smartest looking swallows.

We reached Makoukou in the late afternoon, and after a long and fruitless wait for a Spot-breasted Ibis fly-over the nearby Liboumba River, none was seen but delicate White-throate Blue Swallows kept us well entertained. We finally retired to our accommodations in the heart of Makoukou. MAKOUKOU (6th-9th August 2010) The aftermath of an unexpected and apparently unprecedented dry spell presented us a very different looking and feeling forest at the Ipassa Research Station. Trepidation is generally the feeling I get when I stand in front of this chunk of forest bordering the massive Ivindo NP, however this year, despite our best efforts to churn out the goodies, they where just not enough. We slogged every possible hour, chased every distant party and tracked down just about every worthwhile species calling. But a dry and crunchy Ipassa seemed to have gone into some sort of aestivation mode. Bird activity was poor even in the early morning hours and whilst we were there we never experienced the slightest signal of rain. Nevertheless the trail network of Ipassa continues to be one of the more exciting sites to bird in Africa (when birds are calling and moving) but that was not the case this year. Still our stealthy rambles turned up a handsome bag of species such as Black Goshawk and broken views of Long-tailed Hawk and Cassin’s Hawk Eagle tearing past over the canopy. A stately flock of Black Guineafowl was surprised roosting above our heads providing several views of them flying and at one stage perched on a high branch. Massive Great Blue Turacos, and exquisite Yellow-billed Turacos bounded from branch to branch. Hornbill traffic was prolific and it was rare not to see over five or six hornbill species in any one day with Black-casqued, White-thighed, and Black and White casqued, White-crested, Pied and Piping, Red-billed Dwarf and the rarer Black Dwarf Hornbill all recorded. A special paragraph needs to be dedicated to the constant efforts sapped by the near-impossible Lyre-tailed Honeyguide, which on repeated occasions stalled any pursuits we were on, drawing all our attention and giving us nothing but one small protracted glimpse. Its mesmerising “voo-voo” crescendo tortured us for days, but regardless all our efforts no decent views were attained a testimony to the mythical elusiveness of this bird. Thick-billed and Spotted Honeyguides were however somewhat easier to see. Ant swarms were the best and we had loads of fun skirting the hordes of “nippers” and settling in the brush watching species such as Fire-crested Alethe, Forest Robin, White-tailed Ant-thrush, Common and Lesser Bristlebill, Yellow-spotted and Yellow-throated Nicator (the latter only heard), White-bearded Greenbul and the distant presence of Lowland Akalat and Brown Illadopsis among others.


10

Bristle-nosed Barbet (left) feasting on figs, and Banded Prinia (right) in a bursting performance

The scrubby verges of the main trail, streams and tracks produced Green-backed Camaroptera, Yellow-browed Camaroptera, Olive-green Camaroptera, Black-faced Rufous Warbler, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Yellow Longbill, Blue-shouldered Robin Chat (h), Blue-headed Crested Flycatcher, African Blue Flycatcher, Green Sunbird, Scarlet-tufted Sunbird, Violet-tailed Sunbird, Blue-throated Brown Sunbird, Cameroon Sunbird, Sooty Boubou (h), Black-necked Weaver, Black-headed Waxbill, and many a Black-bellied Seedcracker. Bulbuls and Greenbuls moving in canopy and mid-strata flocks offered endless entertainment and challenges to the rather slow mornings and afternoons in Ipassa. With time and dedication we teased out a lavish bag consisting of Little, Little Gray, Ansorge’s, Slender-billed, Yellow-whiskered, Golden, Honeyguide, Sjostedt’s, Spotted, Simple, Yellow-throated, Yellow-necked, Swamp, White-throated, Icterine and Xavier’s Greenbuls. The canopy of selected fruiting and flowering trees often were attended by a welcome visitors such as Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, Yellow-spotted Barbet, Gabon and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, Blue Cuckooshrike, Black-capped Apalis, Buff-throated Apalis, Rufous-crowned Eremomelas, Violet-backed Hyliota, Yellow-footed Flycatcher, Gray Tit-Flycatcher, Bates’s Paradise Flycatcher, West African Batis, Yellow White-eye, Velvet-mantled Drongo, Narrow-tailed Starling, Black-throated Malimbe and Rachel’s Malimbe. Every afternoon was spent overlooking the mighty Ivindo river snaking away from us, and from this vantage point we overlooked a sea of tree canopies, the perfect setting to track down a Spot-breasted Ibis heading towards its roost, but unfortunately we had to content ourselves with only hearing them in the distance and poor light conditions. But as dusk fell a 150+ flock of Rock Pratincoles and squads of fishing African Skimmers took to the wing over the glassy black waters of the Ivindo River, which was a beautiful sight to witness. At a nearby field a Bates’s Nightjar was enjoyed several nights, it’s not often that one can get to appreciate how huge this species is, almost as large as a European Nightjar and very much smaller than most other African nightjars. Birding some degraded logging trails near the Liboumba River we garnished our list with excellent views of Banded Prinia, Lowland Masked Apalis, Sooty Flycatcher, Green Crombec and scope views of Black-bellied Seedcracker, plus a fleeting and far too fast look at a Western Bluebill that would not grace us with a more prolonged look.


11

Gray-necked Rockfowl – The Prince of Darkness! (I Fulton)

With Ipassa being as torpid as it was, our Rockfowl excursion became much anticipated, and indeed as it turned out this day was to become one that will indeed linger in our memory for many years to come. Two aspects of it will certainly never be forgotten, namely coming upon a cave throbbing with millions of bats and no less than eight Grey-necked Rockfowls, and our local guides’ driving skill. All known caves holding Picathartes in the Makoukou area are several hours away by car and treacherous roads, but by leaving early we managed to do several stops en route and a pick up a number of goodies either by the side of the road or clearing the way ahead of us. Gosling’s Apalis was one of the top targets of the day and this was had fairly easily near the Zadie River, here too we had great views of Long-crested Eagle, the elegant Mosque Swallow and delicate Tambourine Dove, but a streaming flock of Black-collared Lovebirds stopped for no one. Scurrying Forest and Scaly Francolins and Plumed Guineafowl crossed the road ahead of us. The walk to the cave was not difficult, but felt like it took forever as the pressure mounted. Our timing was unorthodox, despite our early start and great progress we did not manage to get to the cave sooner than 13h00. Mid day is in my books possibly the worse hour to expect a Rockfowl anywhere near a cave, especially on a clear day. Technique is crucial when approaching a sacrosanct haven where this elusive birds occur, silence is paramount and a stealthy approach obligate. So all my hopes evaporated as our burlesque guide started whistling and screaming outside the cave in order to locate his tracker. I honestly thought after hours of investment, we had blown every possible chance we could have ever had to surprise the Rockfowl. As it turns out, we were the first birders to visit this cave, and judging by the confused look and comical behaviours of the eight Rockfowl we came upon at the cave, it must have been the first time for them as well to share the dome with humans. From hopelessness we sprung back to elation as no less than eight Rockfowl bounded back and forth over a mound of bat guano, inspecting us, checking us, tracking our position and eventually squeezing past us and heading back into the forest via their normal escape route. At close quarter it was


12

exhilarating to be able to monopolise views of these awesome creatures, in full light, mere meters away and with reciprocated curiosity. Without a shadow of a doubt this was the BEST Rockfowl sighting I have ever had after 10 years of showing this bird to fellow birders. The walk back was spiced up with brief looks at a Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye. Our departure from Makoukou was delayed by a flat tyre, but we were soon on our way and the LONG drive south through to Lekoni via Akieni. Birding stops had to be cautiously selected due to timing issues, although we still managed to clock Black-bee-eater, Dark-chanting Goshawk along the way. We encountered too many pestering gendarmes, police and half baked uniformed buffoons vying for a dose of respect that demanded our passports for checking, and slowing our progress dramatically. LEKONI A Barn owl hissing across the gardens woke me up at 0400 and after that there was no falling asleep again. To make things worse the new management was so damn effective I could not even use this insomniac hours doing the routine cook-chase-around-town to secure some breakfast, as it had become routine in previous years. This time breakfast was already laid out and ready for us…truly a surprise! Lekoni is truly a remote and fascinating place, pretty much an outpost that is perched on the Bateke Plateau and wedged in the south east corner of Gabon bordering Congo. It is blessed with magnificent rolling grasslands, teeming with good birds, and vibrant gallery forests that hold fistfuls of exciting specials and endemics. Locals commute through vast landscapes bringing cassava, manioc and charcoal from a seemingly barren landscape. This time round we had to work extra hard for decent views of Finsch’s Francolins but after flushing no less than 9 different birds on different occasions, we finally tracked down a covey that was reasonably relaxed and responsive to our playback. We slunk upon them commando style until it was no longer safe to even breathe. Since they were not getting any closer to us, and had also become progressively quieter, we opted to take one more step. Well aware of where they were, we secured split second views of the birds on the ground followed by an explosion of francolins all around us. Being so close little detail was missed and no less than 6 birds erupted in all directions one by one, allowing for repeated views. Coqui Francolin, Red-necked and Scaly Francolin were also recorded during our search for Finsch’s.

Grasslands of the Bateke Plateau near Lekoni (Barbara Greatorex)

The open grasslands en route to the spectacular Cirque Rouge were prolific and productive as always. The main targets were found effortlessly as we strolled and zigzagged across expansive grasslands. A Joanna’s Sunbird, Yellow-fronted Canary, Fawn-breasted Waxbill and Brown-crowned Tchagra greeted us at the edge of the grasslands. Cruising the skies a calling pair of Temminck’s Coursers called incessantly, perhaps annoyed by a soaring Red-necked Buzzard. Congo Moor Chats, although ubiquitous, kept their distance whilst Sooty Chats were somewhat more obliging. Plain-backed Pipits taunted us until we finally flushed our first tail-less Short-tailed Pipit. We spent some time with the latter, trying to pin him down on the ground for better scope views, but almost like a seasoned Heteromirafra it managed to melt into the grass no matter how accurately we


13

narrowed its landing. On two occasions the bird flushed just as we had spotted it slinking through the tussocks, thankfully though it would move only a short distance and we were all able to enjoy its detail at close quarters. Another interesting sighting was provided by several Rufous-naped Larks, also known as Malbrant’s Lark, a very likely split considering how disjoint and isolated these Rufous-naped populations are. Flappet Larks were commoner, and their ‘flappettings’ filled the air around us. Traipsing about yielded two long and enjoyable bursts of Black-rumped or Hottentot Buttonquail, and all the while White-bellied Bustard (Barrow’s) called around us. Most of the morning was spent targeting different micro-habitats in the grasslands and teasing patiently a gamut of small “cisticolas” such as the yet to be described ‘Teke’Cisticola which is very similar in looks but calls differently to Short-winged Cisticola, Dambo (a far more richly coloured variant of Cloud-scraping), Pectoral-patch and Zitting Cisticolas. A confiding flock of Black-throated Canaries showed extremely well, as did several individuals of Yellow-shouldered Widowbirds. A surprise flock of 15 Locust Finches flew right by us our but continued going beyond our reach. Banded Martins were also sighted on several occasions as they drifted past over the grasslands.

Malbrant’s Lark (left) a handsome split waiting to happen and a chance encounter with Black-chinned Weavers (right)

At Cirque Rouge we soaked in great views of White-fronted Bee-eaters and Little Bee-eaters and were soon drawn to a flock of Horus Swifts milling over the crags in the canyon. An all-black swift that was of the same size, shape and flying habits as the rest of Horus swifts, yet donning a completely dark rump and flashing a tiny white throat was noticed, perhaps the toulsoni race of Horus Swift described from NW Angola. Birding the gallery forest around the Cirque we struck it lucky with a Perrin’s Bush-shrike that was very responsive and eager to investigate us, on several occasions he showed well as he negotiated a dark set of tangled lianas giving good but dark views. However, hours later we bumped into another one next to the road en route back to Lekoni…see for yourself. Whilst luring in the first Perrin’s we also picked up Double-toothed Barbet, Dark-backed Weaver and Square-tailed Drongo, the latter a potential split if one believes in Sharpe’s Drongo. The search for Black-headed Bee-eater was fruitless and heavy on our hearts, but fortunately short lived as we would find these birds breeding in Loango NP later on the trip. A highly coveted bird that we all relished chasing was African Broadbill, this we managed to entice and lure in to do its quizzical, mechanical toy, “flitsy” dance above our heads, whilst we laid motionless on our knees in deep awe. The matrix of scrub and grasslands filling the gaps between swathes of gallery forest were by far the most enjoyable to bird and it is here that we scored some great looks at a range of miombo-like species such as Woodland Pipit, Red-capped Crombec, Yellow-bellied Hyliota, Cabanis’s Bunting, Angola and Black-headed


14

Batis, Black Scimitarbill, White-winged Black Tit, Yellow-throated Petronia, Western Violet-backed and Amethyst Sunbirds, Pale Flycatcher, Green-capped Eremomelas, Short-winged, Tinkling (Gray), Piping, Red-faced and Whistling Cisticola, Violet-backed Starlings, Brown-hooded and Striped Kingfishers and the elusively cryptic Souza’s Shrike. Black-collared Neolestes (Bulbul) were common yet they drew our undivided attention every time they appeared, and the truth be told they are remarkably clean and handsome birds to watch. From the gallery forests we teased out other goodies such as Luehder’s Bushshrike, but Bocage’s was sadly only heard this time. Black-crowned Tchagra was seen but once calling from the forest edge.

Perrin’s Bushshrike by the side of the road – truly a sight to behold!!

Hours of dedicated focus were monopolised by our search for the highly localised Black-chinned Weaver, a species only known from the Bailundu highlands of western Angola, the Congolese side of the Bateke Plateau and Lekoni. Sheer perseverance paid off and we finally bumped into a flock of two perched males and two females, which were scoped and relished until they parted. Whilst zigzagging the countryside we also came across a mint pair of Black-backed Barbets taking a rest between fig forays, a Rufous-necked Wryneck and an all too brief sighting of Salvadori’s Eremomela. At dusk, spotlight in hand we waited patiently both nights and scored great views of Swamp Nightjar, Fiery-necked Nightjar and also Long-tailed Nightjar. With a successful bag of goodies we returned to Franceville to fly back to Libreville and get ready for the final portion of the trip down south in Loango NP.


15

Playful Congo Moor Chats on the Bateke Plateau (I. Fulton)

LOANGO NP The internal bickering’s between government and private airlines have made access to this part of the world more epic by the day. After reaching Port Gentil we boarded a large schooner type craft, powered by two massive 120 hp out boards and set off across estuaries and broad waterways towards Omboue. The 3h ride down was peppered with sightings of Royal Terns, Palmnut Vultures, Piping and Pied Hornbills, Gray Parrots, African Darter Interestingly, several Little Terns in breeding plumage were seen fishing and resting on river banks, they were seen fishing and flying back forth with fry dangling in their beaks suggesting they were either breeding or courting. They belonged to the “guineae” subspecies found mostly on estuaries and lower reaches of large rivers between Gabon and Ghana. A suggestion that this form should soon be split has been proposed. Apparently, it is as distinct from the Little Tern complex as the recently split Least Tern (S. antillarum) group, and it could soon be seen doning the Sternula genus epithet. From Omboue to the edge of the Iguela Lagoon we proceeded by car and once there visits to the neighbouring forest patches and excursions to sites such as St. Catherine, Akaka, Mpivie River and Petit Loango where done on motorised crafts. At the beaches of St. Catherine we had a fruitful and enjoyable encounter with a large flock of terns basking in the sand at high tide. Butter-billed Royals and coral-billed Caspian’s stood shoulder to shoulder allowing for great comparison. Bleached Sandwich Terns glared against a background of dark and bright-billed African Skimmers, whilst a bunch of ‘comic’ terns posed quite a challenge which was eventually resolved as “senegalensis” forms/subspecies of Common Tern. These grey-chested terns fooled English naturalist and collector Swainson in 1837 to believe he was onto a new species, Sterna senegalensis, when he first saw them at the mouth of the Muni River in Equatorial Guinea. However, our ‘nugget’ find for the afternoon came about as we took a stroll along the shore and bumped into a flock of 15-20 Damara Terns, mostly in non-breeding plumage with the exception of a few ready adults.


16

Damara Tern (left) roosting at St. Catherine, and a Royal pooping Tern scouring the surf (I.Fulton)

August offered the chance of seeing on several occasions the backs of Humpback Whales cresting over choppy seas, and on one occasion smacking the water with their large flippers. Cruising back to the lodge, back of the lagoon, we had a number of all too brief encounters with African Dugongs (Sea-cows, Manatees). These would promptly dive down into their deep and black tannin water safe haven, showing little more than their flukes, leaving behind no more than a smooth turbulence bubble and micro bubbles raising to the water’s surface. A pod of Hippos was sighted off the lodge’s jetty on our last day. The forests behind the lodge were fairly dry and bird activity was never particularly busy during our stay. Birding the edge proved the most effective and yielded species such as White-browed Forest Flycatcher, Emerald Cuckoo, African Piculet (GO), Sjostedt’s Greenbul, and a Gabon Coucal that showed scurrying and sparsely as it scrambled for safety across the road and into a roadside brush tangle. The better find of all was indeed Black-headed Bee-eater, possibly one of the most wanted birds in this leg of the trip. The finding became all the more interesting by the fact that we found its nest. The nest was on the ground, a gallery/tunnel excavation much like the ones of Malagasy ground rollers. The pair was then scoped and videoed to our hearts content having moved away from the nest’s entrance.

Black-headed Bee-eater …worth every ulcer along the way!!

An excursion down to the heat of Loango NP, Akaka, took us down endless lagoons and tranquil waterways. The day produced several enjoyable encounters both avian and mammalian. Male and female African Finfoots were seen on a number of occasions, Shinning and Malachites Kingfishers zipped across the bow of our boat with demystifying recurrence. Whilst Cassin’s Flycatcher and White-throated Blue Swallows adorned any snags providing a vantage perch for their pickings. Large flocks of foraging Gray Parrots would burst above our heads when surprised by our presence, as we appeared round the corner. African Pygmy Geese and White-faced


17

Whistling Ducks and brightly coloured African Jacanas added to the atmosphere, with Gabon Boubous and Winding Cisticolas calling and perching along reedbanks. A chance to visit a monospecific Purple Heron colony (80+ nests!!) was a unique experience, and similarly, enjoying a 50-60 strong Pink backed Pelican colony on a Kapok tree proved was quite a spectacle.

African Finfoot (left) - utterly demystified in Gabon, and Hartlaub’s Duck shy and skittish as ever (left)

Top bird of the day was several Hartlaub’s Ducks feeding at some flooded grasslands next to the main channel. A total of eight birds were enjoyed on the way up and down at exactly the same spots. We also welcomed several flocks of African River Martins gathering momentum and building in numbers as the day progressed. The birds were already paired up, their distinctive calls were now easy to pick up and we were lucky enough to watch them very close by as they wheeled and flocked over the water ahead of our stern for a sip and a dip. The best birding we had in Loango was undoubtedly staged along the slow, black water tributaries feeding the lagoon complex. Here, where no wave action, sound or human presence ever disturbs the peace, Africa’s most iconic, wanted and desired species gathered to feed. It took but the first 20 minutes on the water to get used to cracking views of not one but countless African Finfoots. Dazzling and endearing White-throated Blue Swallows stared at us as we glided lazily past their perches. Flash-fast Shinning Kingfishers, raucous Giants and the nearly impossible White-bellied Kingfisher decorated the river banks on a number of occasions. Hartlaub’s Ducks, a widely distributed African duck, yet common nowhere, were sighted more than once. But, the main draw of our presence here transcended ambition, the retiring and cryptic White-crested Tiger-Bittern was NEEDED. Our devotion and dedicated efforts were eventually rewarded, but not after putting the hours and hiking a learning curve figuring out how to best approach this species. After several flushed attempts, fruitless approaches and nerve racking all too brief encounters, on the last day, we located one well ahead of our boat, approached and followed it downstream enjoying an adult bird that had no issues showing and sharing itself for as long as we could have ever dreamt of. Indeed a beacon moment in anyone’s African birding career.


18

White-crested Bittern – A surreal encounter of Kharmic and cosmic proportions

Other Guinea Forest specials enjoyed from the boat included Long-tailed Hawk, Blue-headed Wood Dove, Bare-cheeked Trogon, Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher, Meeting up with Pel’s Fishing Owl on nine different occasions in one day, was a phenomenal lifetime FIRST, being able to enjoy them in broad day light and in the spotlight later at night was truly a treat. BUT, nothing prepared us for the gluttonous sightings of no less than 14 Vermiculated Fishing Owls, spotted on our way back home under cover of darkness. This spectacle truly exceeded my wildest expectations, and set a daunting precedent I very much doubt will ever be repeated.


19

Over 14 different Vermiculated Fishing Owls (left) and 8 different Pel’s Fishing Owl(right) in the same outing –

SAY NO MORE!!

Mammal wise, we thoroughly enjoyed a sedate group of Red-capped Mangabeys feeding on dates at a grove of palm trees. A pod of three Hippos, two females and one calf, showed us in no uncertain terms that our presence was not appreciated in that stretch of river. Two Forest Elephants were sighted from the water foraging on the banks, both fully engrossed in their diet and every now and then taking an update “sniff’ on our presence and intentions. Capping it off, a Beecroft's Anomalure glided over our heads and across the spotlight beam landing in an impossible canopy over our head. Personally, I was most excited to come across a pair of mating African Soft-shelled Terrapins (Tryonyx triunguis) a rarely seen turtle that can often grow into gigantic dimensions!!

Gliding down some of Africa’s most prolific waterways in Loango NP – a religious experience


20

The lodge itself produced a few interesting sightings namely squadrons of Long-legged Pipits commanding the lawns, a shy and solitary Senegal Lapwing, Narina Trogon and the ubiquitous Carmelite and Reichenbach’s Sunbird. A lonely Forbes Plover was relished on our drive back to Omboue.

Forbes Plover an erratic little chap with a fascination for flooded grasslands

BIRD LIST Taxonomy and nomenclature follow: Clements, James F. 2000. Birds of the World: A Checklist. Fifth Edition. Vista, CA: Ibis Publishing Co. Includes recent updates. All the birds on this list were seen by at least one person in the group other than the leader, except those marked with a ‘GO’ = Guide only or 'HO' = heard only.

PELECANIFORMES: Pelecanidae

1 Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens

PELECANIFORMES: Anhingidae

2 Darter Anhinga melanogaster

CICONIIFORMES: Ardeidae

3 Gray Heron Ardea cinerea 4 Goliath Heron Ardea goliath

5 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 6 Great Egret Ardea alba 7 Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia 8 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 9 Western Reef-Heron Egretta gularis 10 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 11 Striated Heron Butorides striata 12 White-crested Bittern Tigriornis leucolopha

CICONIIFORMES: Scopidae

13 Hamerkop Scopus umbretta

CICONIIFORMES: Ciconiidae

14 Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis


21 15 Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus

16 Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus

CICONIIFORMES: Threskiornithidae

HO Spot-breasted Ibis Bostrychia rara 18 Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash 19 African Spoonbill Platalea alba

ANSERIFORMES: Anatidae

20 White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata 21 Hartlaub's Duck Pteronetta hartlaubii 22 African Pygmy-goose Nettapus auritus

FALCONIFORMES: Pandionidae

23 Osprey Pandion haliaetus

FALCONIFORMES: Accipitridae

24 Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus 25 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus 26 African Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer 27 Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis 28 Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus

29 Congo Serpent-Eagle Dryotriorchis spectabilis 30 African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus 31 Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus 32 Dark Chanting-Goshawk Melierax metabates 33 Red-chested Goshawk Accipiter toussenelii 34 Red-thighed Sparrowhawk Accipiter erythropus 35 Black Goshawk Accipiter melanoleucus 36 Long-tailed Hawk Urotriorchis macrourus 37 Red-necked Buzzard Buteo auguralis 38 Ayres' Hawk-Eagle Aquila ayresii 39 Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis 40 Cassin's Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus africanus

GALLIFORMES: Phasianidae

HO Coqui Francolin Francolinus coqui 42 Forest Francolin Francolinus lathami

43 Finsch's Francolin Francolinus finschi 44 Scaly Francolin Francolinus squamatus 45 Red-necked Francolin Francolinus afer

GALLIFORMES: Numididae

46 Black Guineafowl Agelastes niger 47 Plumed Guineafowl Guttera plumifera

GRUIFORMES: Turnicidae

Hottentot Buttonquail Turnix hottentottus

GRUIFORMES: Rallidae

HO White-spotted Flufftail Sarothrura pulchra HO African Crake Crecopsis egregia 50 Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra

GRUIFORMES: Heliornithidae

51 African Finfoot Podica senegalensis

GRUIFORMES: Otididae

HO White-bellied Bustard Eupodotis senegalensis

CHARADRIIFORMES: Jacanidae

53 African Jacana Actophilornis africanus

CHARADRIIFORMES: Burhinidae

54 Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus

CHARADRIIFORMES: Glareolidae

55 Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii 56 Rock Pratincole Glareola nuchalis

CHARADRIIFORMES: Charadriidae

57 White-headed Lapwing Vanellus albiceps 58 Senegal Lapwing Vanellus lugubris


22 59 Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus

60 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula 61 Forbes' Plover Charadrius forbesi

62 White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus

CHARADRIIFORMES: Scolopacidae

63 Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica 64 Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus 65 Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata 66 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 67 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 68 Red Knot Calidris canutus 69 Sanderling Calidris alba 70 Little Stint Calidris minuta 71 Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

CHARADRIIFORMES: Sternidae

72 Little Tern Sternula albifrons 73 Damara Tern Sternula balaenarum 74 Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia

75 Common Tern Sterna hirundo 76 Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus 77 Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis

CHARADRIIFORMES: Rynchopidae

78 African Skimmer Rynchops flavirostris

COLUMBIFORMES: Columbidae

79 Rock Pigeon Columba livia 80 Afep Pigeon Columba unicincta HO Bronze-naped Pigeon Columba iriditorques 82 Lemon Dove Columba larvata 83 Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata 84 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis 85 Blue-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur afer 86 Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria 87 Blue-headed Wood-Dove Turtur brehmeri

88 African Green-Pigeon Treron calvus

PSITTACIFORMES: Psittacidae

GO Black-collared Lovebird Agapornis swindernianus 90 Gray Parrot Psittacus erithacus HO Red-fronted Parrot Poicephalus gulielmi

CUCULIFORMES: Musophagidae

92 Great Blue Turaco Corythaeola cristata 93 Guinea Turaco Tauraco persa 94 Yellow-billed Turaco Tauraco macrorhynchus

CUCULIFORMES: Cuculidae

95 Thick-billed Cuckoo Pachycoccyx audeberti HO Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius 97 Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus HO Olive Long-tailed Cuckoo Cercococcyx olivinus

99 Klaas' Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas 100 African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus 101 Dideric Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius 102 Yellowbill Ceuthmochares aereus 103 Gabon Coucal Centropus anselli 104 Blue-headed Coucal Centropus monachus 105 Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis

STRIGIFORMES: Tytonidae

GO Barn Owl Tyto alba

STRIGIFORMES: Strigidae

HO Akun Eagle-Owl Bubo leucostictus 108 Pel's Fishing-Owl Scotopelia peli


23 109 Vermiculated Fishing-Owl Scotopelia bouvieri

CAPRIMULGIFORMES: Caprimulgidae

110 Brown Nightjar Caprimulgus binotatus

111 Fiery-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus pectoralis 112 Swamp Nightjar Caprimulgus natalensis 113 Bates' Nightjar Caprimulgus batesi 114 Long-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus climacurus 115 Square-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus fossii

APODIFORMES: Apodidae

116 Mottled Spinetail Telacanthura ussheri 117 Black Spinetail Telacanthura melanopygia 118 Sabine's Spinetail Rhaphidura sabini 119 Cassin's Spinetail Neafrapus cassini 120 African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus 121 Little Swift Apus affinis 122 Horus Swift Apus horus 123 Bates' Swift Apus batesi

COLIIFORMES: Coliidae

124 Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus

TROGONIFORMES: Trogonidae

125 Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina 126 Bare-cheeked Trogon Apaloderma aequatoriale

CORACIIFORMES: Alcedinidae

127 Shining-blue Kingfisher Alcedo quadribrachys 128 Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata 129 White-bellied Kingfisher Alcedo leucogaster 130 African Pygmy-Kingfisher Ispidina picta 131 Dwarf Kingfisher Ispidina lecontei 132 Chocolate-backed Kingfisher Halcyon badia 133 Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis 134 Blue-breasted Kingfisher Halcyon malimbica 135 Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcyon albiventris 136 Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti

137 Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maximus 138 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

CORACIIFORMES: Meropidae

139 Black Bee-eater Merops gularis GO Blue-headed Bee-eater Merops muelleri 141 White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides 142 Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus 143 Blue-breasted Bee-eater Merops variegatus 144 Black-headed Bee-eater Merops breweri 145 White-throated Bee-eater Merops albicollis 146 Rosy Bee-eater Merops malimbicus

CORACIIFORMES: Coraciidae

147 Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus 148 Blue-throated Roller Eurystomus gularis

CORACIIFORMES: Phoeniculidae

149 Black Scimitar-bill Rhinopomastus aterrimus

CORACIIFORMES: Bucerotidae

150 White-crested Hornbill Tockus albocristatus 151 Black Dwarf Hornbill Tockus hartlaubi 152 Red-billed Dwarf Hornbill Tockus camurus 153 African Pied Hornbill Tockus fasciatus 154 Piping Hornbill Ceratogymna fistulator

155 Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill Ceratogymna subcylindrica

156 White-thighed Hornbill Ceratogymna albotibialis 157 Black-casqued Hornbill Ceratogymna atrata


24

PICIFORMES: Capitonidae

158 Yellow-billed Barbet Trachyphonus purpuratus 159 Gray-throated Barbet Gymnobucco bonapartei

160 Bristle-nosed Barbet Gymnobucco peli 161 Naked-faced Barbet Gymnobucco calvus 162 Speckled Tinkerbird Pogoniulus scolopaceus 163 Red-rumped Tinkerbird Pogoniulus atroflavus 164 Yellow-throated Tinkerbird Pogoniulus subsulphureus 165 Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird Pogoniulus bilineatus 166 Yellow-spotted Barbet Buccanodon duchaillui 167 Hairy-breasted Barbet Tricholaema hirsuta 168 Black-backed Barbet Lybius minor 169 Double-toothed Barbet Lybius bidentatus

PICIFORMES: Indicatoridae

170 Willcock's Honeyguide Indicator willcocksi 171 Thick-billed Honeyguide Indicator conirostris 172 Spotted Honeyguide Indicator maculatus HO Lyre-tailed Honeyguide Melichneutes robustus

PICIFORMES: Picidae

174 Rufous-necked Wryneck Jynx ruficollis GO African Piculet Sasia africana 176 Green-backed Woodpecker Campethera cailliautii 177 Brown-eared Woodpecker Campethera caroli 178 Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens 179 Gabon Woodpecker Dendropicos gabonensis 180 Golden-crowned Woodpecker Dendropicos xantholophus 181 Gray Woodpecker Dendropicos goertae

PASSERIFORMES: Eurylaimidae

182 African Broadbill Smithornis capensis 183 Rufous-sided Broadbill Smithornis rufolateralis

PASSERIFORMES: Alaudidae

184 Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana 185 Flappet Lark Mirafra rufocinnamomea

PASSERIFORMES: Hirundinidae

186 African River Martin Pseudochelidon eurystomina 187 Square-tailed Sawwing Psalidoprocne nitens 188 Black Sawwing Psalidoprocne pristoptera 189 Gray-rumped Swallow Pseudhirundo griseopyga 190 Banded Martin Riparia cincta 191 Red-chested Swallow Hirundo lucida 192 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii 193 White-throated Blue Swallow Hirundo nigrita 194 Lesser Striped-Swallow Cecropis abyssinica 195 Rufous-chested Swallow Cecropis semirufa 196 Mosque Swallow Cecropis senegalensis 197 Red-throated Swallow Petrochelidon rufigula 198 Forest Swallow Petrochelidon fuliginosa

PASSERIFORMES: Motacillidae

199 Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys 200 Long-legged Pipit Anthus pallidiventris 201 Short-tailed Pipit Anthus brachyurus 202 Woodland Pipit Anthus nyassae 203 Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus 204 African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp

PASSERIFORMES: Campephagidae

205 Blue Cuckoo-shrike Coracina azurea 206 Petit's Cuckoo-shrike Campephaga petiti 207 Purple-throated Cuckoo-shrike Campephaga quiscalina

PASSERIFORMES: Pycnonotidae


25 208 Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus

209 Little Greenbul Andropadus virens 210 Gray Greenbul Andropadus gracilis

211 Ansorge's Greenbul Andropadus ansorgei 212 Slender-billed Greenbul Andropadus gracilirostris 213 Yellow-whiskered Greenbul Andropadus latirostris 214 Golden Greenbul Calyptocichla serina 215 Honeyguide Greenbul Baeopogon indicator 216 Sjostedt's Greenbul Baeopogon clamans 217 Spotted Greenbul Ixonotus guttatus 218 Simple Greenbul Chlorocichla simplex 219 Yellow-throated Greenbul Chlorocichla flavicollis 220 Yellow-necked Greenbul Chlorocichla falkensteini 221 Swamp Greenbul Thescelocichla leucopleura 222 Leaf-love Phyllastrephus scandens 223 White-throated Greenbul Phyllastrephus albigularis 224 Icterine Greenbul Phyllastrephus icterinus 225 Xavier's Greenbul Phyllastrephus xavieri

226 Common Bristlebill Bleda syndactylus 227 Lesser Bristlebill Bleda notatus 228 Yellow-spotted Nicator Nicator chloris HO Yellow-throated Nicator Nicator vireo 230 Red-tailed Greenbul Criniger calurus 231 White-bearded Greenbul Criniger ndussumensis 232 Black-collared Bulbul Neolestes torquatus

PASSERIFORMES: Turdidae

233 Rufous Flycatcher-Thrush Neocossyphus fraseri 234 Red-tailed Ant-Thrush Neocossyphus rufus 235 White-tailed Ant-Thrush Neocossyphus poensis 236 Gray Ground-Thrush Zoothera princei 237 African Thrush Turdus pelios 238 Brown-chested Alethe Alethe poliocephala 239 Fire-crested Alethe Alethe diademata

PASSERIFORMES: Cisticolidae

240 Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops 241 Whistling Cisticola Cisticola lateralis 242 Chattering Cisticola Cisticola anonymus 243 Gray Cisticola Cisticola rufilatus 244 Winding Cisticola Cisticola galactotes 245 Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis 246 Piping Cisticola Cisticola fulvicapilla 247 Siffling Cisticola Cisticola brachypterus 248 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis 249 Cloud-scraping Cisticola Cisticola dambo 250 Pectoral-patch Cisticola Cisticola brunnescens 251 Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava 252 Banded Prinia Prinia bairdii

253 White-chinned Prinia Schistolais leucopogon 254 Black-capped Apalis Apalis nigriceps 255 Masked Apalis Apalis binotata 256 Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida 257 Buff-throated Apalis Apalis rufogularis 258 Gosling's Apalis Apalis goslingi 259 Green-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura 260 Yellow-browed Camaroptera Camaroptera superciliaris 261 Olive-green Camaroptera Camaroptera chloronota

PASSERIFORMES: Sylviidae

262 Ja River Scrub-Warbler Bradypterus grandis 263 Black-faced Rufous-Warbler Bathmocercus rufus


26 264 Greater Swamp-Warbler Acrocephalus rufescens

265 Salvadori's Eremomela Eremomela salvadorii 266 Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis

267 Greencap Eremomela Eremomela scotops 268 Rufous-crowned Eremomela Eremomela badiceps 269 Green Crombec Sylvietta virens 270 Red-capped Crombec Sylvietta ruficapilla HO Yellow Longbill Macrosphenus flavicans HO Gray Longbill Macrosphenus concolor 273 Green Hylia Hylia prasina 274 Yellow-bellied Hyliota Hyliota flavigaster 275 Violet-backed Hyliota Hyliota violacea 276 Fan-tailed Grassbird Schoenicola brevirostris

PASSERIFORMES: Muscicapidae

277 Pale Flycatcher Bradornis pallidus 278 African Forest-Flycatcher Fraseria ocreata 279 White-browed Forest-Flycatcher Fraseria cinerascens 280 Sooty Flycatcher Muscicapa infuscata

281 Yellow-footed Flycatcher Muscicapa sethsmithi 282 Dusky-blue Flycatcher Muscicapa comitata 283 Cassin's Flycatcher Muscicapa cassini 284 Gray Tit-Flycatcher Myioparus plumbeus 285 Forest Robin Stiphrornis erythrothorax 286 Lowland Akalat Sheppardia cyornithopsis HO Blue-shouldered Robin-Chat Cossypha cyanocampter 288 Red-capped Robin-Chat Cossypha natalensis 289 Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat Cossypha niveicapilla 290 Red-backed Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys 291 African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus 292 Congo Moorchat Myrmecocichla tholloni 293 Sooty Chat Myrmecocichla nigra

PASSERIFORMES: Platysteiridae

294 African Shrike-flycatcher Megabyas flammulatus

295

Black-and-white Shrike-flycatcher Bias musicus

296 Brown-throated Wattle-eye Platysteira cyanea 297 Chestnut Wattle-eye Platysteira castanea 298 White-spotted Wattle-eye Platysteira tonsa 300 Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye Platysteira concreta 302 Black-headed Batis Batis minor 303 West African Batis Batis occulta 304 Angola Batis Batis minulla

PASSERIFORMES: Monarchidae

305 Chestnut-capped Flycatcher Erythrocercus mccallii 306 African Blue-Flycatcher Elminia longicauda 307 Blue-headed Crested-Flycatcher Trochocercus nitens 308 Black-headed P Flycatcher Terpsiphone rufiventer

309 Rufous-vented P Flycatcher Terpsiphone rufocinerea 310 Bates' Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone batesi 311 African Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis

PASSERIFORMES: Picathartidae

312 Gray-necked Rockfowl Picathartes oreas

PASSERIFORMES: Timaliidae

313 Brown Illadopsis Illadopsis fulvescens

PASSERIFORMES: Paridae

314 White-shouldered Black-Tit Melaniparus guineensis 315 Dusky Tit Melaniparus funereus

PASSERIFORMES: Nectariniidae

316 Scarlet-tufted Sunbird Deleornis fraseri


27 317 Mouse-brown Sunbird Anthreptes gabonicus

318 Western Violet-backed Sunbird Anthreptes longuemarei 319 Violet-tailed Sunbird Anthreptes aurantium

320 Little Green Sunbird Anthreptes seimundi 321 Green Sunbird Anthreptes rectirostris 322 Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris 323 Reichenbach's Sunbird Anabathmis reichenbachii 324 Green-headed Sunbird Cyanomitra verticalis 325 Blue-throated Brown Sunbird Cyanomitra cyanolaema 326 Eastern Olive Sunbird Cyanomitra olivacea 327 Carmelite Sunbird Chalcomitra fuliginosa 328 Green-throated Sunbird Chalcomitra rubescens 329 Amethyst Sunbird Chalcomitra amethystina 330 Olive-bellied Sunbird Cinnyris chloropygius 331 Tiny Sunbird Cinnyris minullus 332 Johanna's Sunbird Cinnyris johannae 333 Superb Sunbird Cinnyris superbus 334 Bates' Sunbird Cinnyris batesi

335 Copper Sunbird Cinnyris cupreus

PASSERIFORMES: Zosteropidae

336 African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis

PASSERIFORMES: Oriolidae

337 Western Black-headed Oriole Oriolus brachyrhynchus 338 Black-winged Oriole Oriolus nigripennis

PASSERIFORMES: Laniidae

339 Souza's Shrike Lanius souzae 340 Mackinnon's Shrike Lanius mackinnoni 341 Common Fiscal Lanius collaris

PASSERIFORMES: Malaconotidae

342 Red-eyed Puffback Dryoscopus senegalensis 343 Large-billed Puffback Dryoscopus sabini 344 Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus 345 Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis

346 Luehder's Bushshrike Laniarius luehderi 347 Gabon Boubou Laniarius bicolor HO Sooty Boubou Laniarius leucorhynchus

349 Four-colored Bushshrike (Perrin's) Telophorus viridis

350 Fiery-breasted Bushshrike Malaconotus cruentus

PASSERIFORMES: Prionopidae

351 Rufous-bellied Helmetshrike Prionops rufiventris

PASSERIFORMES: Dicruridae

352 Square-tailed Drongo Dicrurus ludwigii 353 Shining Drongo Dicrurus atripennis 354 Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis 355 Velvet-mantled Drongo Dicrurus modestus

PASSERIFORMES: Corvidae

356 Pied Crow Corvus albus

PASSERIFORMES: Sturnidae

357 Splendid Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis splendidus 358 Purple-headed Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis purpureiceps 359 Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster 360 Narrow-tailed Starling Poeoptera lugubris 361 Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus

PASSERIFORMES: Passeridae

362 Gray-headed Sparrow Passer griseus 363 Yellow-throated Petronia Petronia superciliaris

PASSERIFORMES: Ploceidae

364 Black-throated Malimbe Malimbus cassini


28 365 Rachel's Malimbe Malimbus racheliae

366 Gray's Malimbe Malimbus nitens 367 Black-chinned Weaver Ploceus nigrimentus

368 Slender-billed Weaver Ploceus pelzelni 369 Loango Weaver Ploceus subpersonatus 370 Black-necked Weaver Ploceus nigricollis 371 Orange Weaver Ploceus aurantius 372 Vieillot's Weaver Ploceus nigerrimus 373 Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus 374 Forest Weaver Ploceus bicolor 375 Compact Weaver Pachyphantes superciliosus 376 Red-headed Quelea Quelea erythrops 377 Yellow-shouldered Widowbird Euplectes macroura 378 Black-winged Bishop Euplectes hordeaceus

PASSERIFORMES: Estrildidae

379 Pale-fronted Negrofinch Nigrita luteifrons 380 Gray-headed Negrofinch Nigrita canicapillus 381 White-breasted Negrofinch Nigrita fusconotus

382 Fawn-breasted Waxbill Estrilda paludicola 383 Orange-cheeked Waxbill Estrilda melpoda 384 Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild 385 Black-headed Waxbill Estrilda atricapilla GO Western Bluebill Spermophaga haematina 387 Black-bellied Seedcracker Pyrenestes ostrinus 388 Red-billed Quailfinch Ortygospiza gabonensis 389 Bronze Mannikin Spermestes cucullatus 390 Black-and-white Mannikin Spermestes bicolor 391 Magpie Mannikin Spermestes fringilloides 392 Locust Finch

GO African Firefinch GO Orange-winged Pytilia Pytilia afra

PASSERIFORMES: Viduidae

395 Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura

396 PASSERIFORMES: Fringillidae

397 Black-faced Canary Serinus capistratus 398 Black-throated Canary Serinus atrogularis 399 Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus

PASSERIFORMES: Emberizidae

400 Cabanis' Bunting Emberiza cabanisi

MAMMAL AND REPTILE LIST

Taxonomy and nomenclature follow: Kingdon, J. 1997. The Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals. Princeton University Press.

1 Dugong Dugong dugon Brief glimpses of their divings at Loango NP

2 Humpback Whale Megaptera novaeangliae One breaching individual off Ste Catherine in Loango NP

3 African Forest Elephant Loxodonta africana cyclotis Lope NP and Loango NP

4 African Forest Buffalo Syncerus caffer Several herds at Lope NP

5 Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius A pod of 4 at Loango NP

6 Chimpanzee Pan troglodytes A magnificent troop sighting from the Lope Hotel

7 Lowland Gorilla Gorilla gorilla Footprints at Akanda NP and Lope NP

8 Black Colobus Colobus satanas Lope NP

9 Red-capped Mangabey Cercocebus torquatus Loango NP

10 Grey-cheeked Mangabey Lophocebus albigena Lope NP

11 Vervet Monkey Chlorocebus pygerythrus Lope NP

12 Crowned Monkey Cercopithecus pogonias Lope NP

13 Putty-nosed Monkey Cercopithecus nictitans Lope NP

14 Elegant Needle-clawed Galago Euoticus elegantulus One seen at Lekoni

15 Straw Coloured Fruit Bat Eidolon helvum Several seen at Lope NP


29 16 Dwarf Eppauletted Fruit Bat Micropteropus pusillus Several seen at Lope NP

17 Sitatunga Tragelaphus spekei A few seen in Lope NP

18 Blue Duiker Philantomba monticola One seen at Ipassa Research Station

19 Bush Duiker Sylvicappra grimmia One seen crossing the road in Lekoni

20 Yellow-backed Duiker Cephalophus silvicultor One found dead at Loango NP

21 Red-legged Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus rufobrachium One at Lope NP

22 African Giant Squirrel Protoxerus stangeri One at Lope NP

23 Lady Burton's Rope Squirrel Funisciurus isabella Seen well at Lope NP and Ipassa

24 Thomas Rope Squirrel Funisciurus anerythrus Seen well at Lope NP and Ipassa

25 Swamp Otter Aonyx congica One individual crossing a river between Lope and Boue

26 Beecroft's Anomalure Anomalurus beecrofti Spotted briefly gliding over the Mpivie River in Loango NP

27 Western Tree Hyrax Dendrohyrax dorsalis Hear at night at Lope and Ipassa

28 Marsh Cane Rat Thryonomys swinderianus Two seen next to the road in Lope NP

29 African Slender-snouted Crocodile Crocodylus cataphractus Loango NP

30 Dwarf Crocodile Crocodylus cataphractus Loango NP

31 Ornate Monitor Varanus ornatus Loango NP

Documents

Leader: Christian Boix - Tropical Birding