Laundry and Ironing Basics

House & Home

Load up on laundry know-how.

Static cling, bleach spots, shrunken sweaters—the laundry room can seem like a

frightening place. With just a little basic knowlege, though, you can keep your

wardrobe and linens fresh and flawless. Teach yourself how to:

Care for different fabrics and choose the right laundry supplies•

Get great results from any washer or dryer, at home or at a laundromat•

Iron out wrinkles and keep all your clothes in top shape•

Laundry & Ironing Basicspublished by Barnes & Noble

how to do it TM

Laundry BasicsTypical household laundry consists mainly of clothing, towels, and bed linens. Depending on the number of people in your household, you may need to wash dirty laundry anywhere from once to several times a week. Regardless of the amount of laundry that accumulates in your home, it’s important to stick to a regular schedule. If neglected, dirty laundry can easily pile up, leaving you with a shortage of clean clothes and linens—not to mention a job that’s more time-consuming than it needs to be.

How to Sort LaundrySorting laundry is the process of separating dirty clothing and linens into separate loads according to their similar washing and drying needs. Sorting is an important routine that saves water and energy, protects fabrics, and eases the process of everyday laundering. Though it may seem like an arduous task, sorting can save your belongings from irreversible dam-age, such as fading, shrinking, and tearing. Laundry is usually sorted according to color and/or fabric content.

Whites: • Items that are primarily white should be washed together in hot water, preferably with bleach to maintain their brightness. Whites include undershirts, underwear, towels, socks, and most bedsheets.Light colors: • Pale-colored clothing and linens can be washed together in either warm or cold water, depending on their fabric content. You may opt to use colorsafe bleach to maintain the brightness of light colors. Dark colors: • Items that are very bold or bright in color can bleed dye onto other fabrics. To avoid this, group dark-colored fabrics together and wash them in cold or warm water, depending on their fabric content.Delicates:• Items made of fine, fragile materials, such as lace or silk, should be washed together, either by hand or on your washer’s delicate cycle (see Washing Machines) in a mesh bag that’s washing machine–safe. Unprotected delicates can pull and tear if subjected to a regular machine washing.Other categories:• In addition to the above loads, be sure to keep lint-producing fabrics, such as terrycloth, separate from lint-attracting fabrics, such as knits. Wash heavily soiled items separately from lightly soiled items. And though it’s a good idea to combine different-sized items within each load (the mix facilitates cleaning action in a washer), it’s best to avoid pairing very bulky items, such as duvets, with much smaller items, such as socks.

Household Laundry ScheduleYour laundry schedule will depend on many factors, includ-ing the number and age of people in your household and the amount of time you have to devote to the task. The following general guidelines can help you devise a consistent laundry schedule that suits your lifestyle.

Item How Often to Launder

Sheets Once a week

Blankets/quilts Once a month

Bath towels Once a week (twice in humid weather or larger households)

Kitchen towels Daily or every other day if you cook a lot; once a week if you cook less often

General clothing (pants, shirts, etc.)

After each wearing

Undergarments, socks, and gym clothes

After each wearing (bras can be worn more than once between washings)

How to Read Fabric Care LabelsTo help consumers care for their fabrics, the Federal Trade Commission requires that manufacturers affix permanent care labels, or tags, to garments, linens, and towels. These fabric tags must be legible and resistant to fading. On cloth-ing, they’re typically found inside collars, waistbands, or left-hand seams. On linens and towels, they’re usually sewn into the hem. In addition to size and fabric content, care labels include important information about how to wash, dry, and iron the item. The information is presented in written instructions, fabric care symbols, or both.

Instructions on Fabric Care LabelsMost written instructions found on fabric care labels are general and straightforward. The most common written directions you’ll find on garments and linens include:

Machine wash:• Safe to wash using a standard washing machine. The label may indicate whether to use cold, warm, or hot water. If it doesn’t, you can assume that any temperature is safe.Hand wash:• Not safe to wash in a machine; wash only by hand. The label will sometimes recommend a general water temperature.

Do not bleach: • Not safe to wash with bleach.Tumble dry:• Safe to dry in a dryer. The label will often indicate whether to use high, medium, or low heat. If it doesn’t, you can assume that any temperature is safe.Iron:• Safe to iron. The label will often indicate “hot iron,” “warm iron,” or “cool iron.” If it doesn’t, use your discretion based on the item’s fabric content (see How to Iron for more information on iron settings).

Garment tags may also feature variations on the typical care instructions, but the directions are always stated clearly and concisely. For example, a sweater made of wool, which can easily shrink in a tumble dryer or become misshapen if handled while wet, may include the instructions “Lay flat to dry” or “Do not twist or wring.”

How to Read Fabric Care SymbolsIn 1997, the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) published a series of standardized symbols to take the place of written instructions on fabric care labels (though many labels include both written instructions and symbols). Fabric care symbols are illustrated washing, drying, and ironing directions that consumers can read and understand, regardless of language. The following chart illustrates all of the ASTM’s fabric care symbols and their meanings.

P F P F W Wtetrachloroethylene

or petroleum solventpetroleum

solvent only

ASTM Guide to Care Symbols

Machinewash

Bleachwhenneeded

Iron whenneededdry or steam

Tumble dry

normal

only non-chlorine/oxygen bleach

any bleach

normal permanentpress

delicate /gentle

permanentpress

delicate /gentle

handwash

(200F) (160F)

symbol(s)dots & ˚C

&

Warningsymbols forlaundering

Additionalinstruction(in symbolsor words)

do not wash

do not bleach

do not wring

do not dry(used with

do not wash)

in the shade(added to linedry, drip dry,or dry flat)

no steam(added to iron)

do nottumble dry

do not iron

Cycles

Watertemperatures

&

Cycles

Heat settings

Heat settings

Dryclean Do notdryclean

Do notwetcleanWetclean

95 70

(140F)

60

(120F)

50

(105F)

40

(60F-85F)

30

Wash

Bleach

Dry

Iron

ProfessionalTextile Care

any high medium

lowhigh medium

medium mild cycle

W

normal mild very mild

low no heat /air

line dry /hang to dry

drip dry

dry flat

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Writer: Kristine Solomon

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The information contained in this and every Quamut guide is intended only for the general interest of its readers and should not be used as a basis for making medical, investment, legal or other important decisions. Though Quamut makes efforts to create accurate guides, editorial and research mistakes can occur. Quamut cannot, therefore, guarantee the accuracy of its guides. We disclaim all warranties, including warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose, and must advise you to use our guides at your own risk. Quamut and its employees are not liable for loss of any nature resulting from the use of or reliance upon our charts and the information found therein.

Photo Credits: Page 1: Digital Vision/Punchstock (photo 1), This figure has been reproduced by SparkNotes Publishing under license from ASTM International. This figure is reprinted from ASTM Standard D 5489-01a, Standard Guide for Care Symbols for Care Instructions on Textile Products, copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428, USA (phone: 610-832-9585, fax: 610-832-9555, e-mail: [email protected], website: www.astm.org. Copies of the official standard should be obtained directly from ASTM., (image 2); Page 2: Scott B. Rosen/Bill Smith Studio (photos 1, 3-4, and 8-9), Courtesy of Proctor & Gamble (photos 2, and 5-6), Vincent & Jennifer Keane/Lucence Photographic (photo 7), Courtesy of Whirlpool Corporation (photos 10-11); Page 3: www.energystar.gov (image 1), Courtesy of LG Electronics (photo 2), Courtesy of Samsung (photo 3); Page 4: Courtesy of Haier America (photos 1-2), Cour-tesy of LG Electronics (photo 3); Page 5: Scott B. Rosen/Bill Smith Studio; Page 6: Arvind Balaraman/Shutterstock (photo 1), Comstock/Jupiter Images (photo 2).

Laundry & Ironing Basics www.quamut.com

Laundry SuppliesFor everyday laundering, stock up on the following supplies and replenish them as needed:

• Detergent: Laundry detergent comes in two forms: powder (or granular) and liquid. The main difference between the two is texture. An advantage of powder detergent (which predates liquid) is its typically lower price. An advantage of liquid detergent is the fact that it’s predissolved—powder sometimes does not dissolve fully, especially in hard water.

• Bleach: Household bleach comes in liquid or powder form and is used to whiten or brighten laundry and remove stub born stains (from whites only). There are two main types of bleach. Chlorine bleach is a strong, pungent chemical that’s highly effective at removing stains, primarily on cotton and synthetic fibers. However, it can damage silk, wool, acetate, spandex, and any fabrics labeled “flame-resistant” or “dry clean only.” Oxygen bleach, sometimes called all-fabric bleach, is milder than chlorine bleach but less effective at removing stains and whitening fabrics. Oxygen bleach is safe to use on just about any type of material, as long as it’s not labeled “no bleach.” Oxygen bleach doesn’t give off the same harmful fumes that chlorine bleach emits. To brighten colored items, you can use color-safe bleach (see below), which is sold either alone or as a detergent component.

• Fabric softener: Fabric softener is used to soften laundry and reduce static cling—some softeners even make ironing easier. Fabric softener is available in two forms. Liquid fabric softener is added to the washing machine (either to its automatic dispenser or directly into the wash) during the final rinse cycle. Fabric softener sheets, or dryer sheets, are added to the dryer at the beginning of its cycle.

powder detergent liquid detergent

chlorine bleach oxygen bleach

liquid fabric softener dryer sheets

• Pre-laundry stain remover: This concentrated gel, liquid, or solid detergent, sometimes called a stain stick or pen, brushes, rolls, or rubs on to pretreat stains on fabric before it’s washed. Stain removers work by “freezing” and breaking down stains before they have a chance to set.

• Laundry additives: A laundry additive is a powder or liquid used in addition to detergent and sometimes instead of bleach. It helps to clean, freshen, and brighten laundry, and is especially useful when trying to remove tough stains, odors, and allergens.Hamper:• A hamper is a basket or bin, usually kept in a laundry room, bedroom, or closet, that holds dirty laundry until it can be washed.Laundry basket:• This handheld container, usually made of plastic, is used to transport laundry from the hamper to the washer, the washer to the dryer, and the dryer to the bureau, armoire, or closet.Laundry bag:• A laundry bag is often necessary for transporting large loads of laundry, especially to and from the laundromat.Mesh bags:• These bags are used to hold delicates—such as lingerie and baby clothes—that might snag or tear in the washer or dryer. They’re also handy for keeping socks contained as they’re washed. Look for mesh bags that are labeled specifically for laundry; they’re designed to withstand repeated machine-washing and drying.

• Drying rack: Items that will shrink in a tumble dryer are labeled “hang to dry” or “lay flat to dry,” meaning that they should be hung or placed on a clothesline or drying rack, a floor-standing or wall-mounted wooden or plastic rack with tiers for hanging items and level surfaces for laying items flat.

Get to Know Detergent JargonNot all detergents are created equal—often, you’ll come across words on detergent labels that indicate special fea-tures. Some of the most popular terms include:

Ultra:• Indicates that the detergent is concentrated, so you should use a smaller amount than usual.All-purpose (heavy-duty):• Implies that the detergent can be used with almost any type of laundry fabric (except for the type that requires “mild” or “gentle” detergent), as well as for other household cleaning jobs, such as washing windows or mopping floors.

drying rack

Free:• Indicates that the detergent lacks dyes, perfumes, and fragrances that tend to cause allergic reactions.Color-safe bleach:• Indicates that the detergent is safe to use on colored items. Color-safe bleach keeps both colors and whites looking bright.

Washing MachinesWashing machines wash dirty laundry through mechani-cal energy (supplied by the motion of the washer), thermal energy (supplied by water temperature), and chemical action (supplied by soaps and detergents). Washers typically have a capacity of 1.7–3.1 cubic feet or more and are 24–33" wide. They work by either agitating or tumbling laundry.

Agitating:• This is the process of spinning laundry around a central, vertical post, creating a centrifugal force that presses out stains, suds, and water. Agitating results in laundry that’s damp-dried, meaning that it’s already wrung out and doesn’t drip.Tumbling:• This is the process of tossing laundry around an empty drum (the barrel-like chamber inside the washer), sloshing and spraying sudsy water throughout the items. Tumbling is a more gentle method of washing than agitating is. Like agitators, tumblers also move laundry at a speed that presses out water, leaving laundry damp-dried.

Types of Washing MachinesWashers fall into different categories based on the location of their door and whether they agitate or tumble laundry.

• Top-loading: The most common type of washer in the United States, a top-loading machine has a top-mounted door through which to load laundry. It uses a central, vertical post and centrifugal force to agitate laundry. Its top-loading design makes laundry easy to access.

• Front-loading: Front- loading washers, already popular throughout Europe and on the rise in the United States, have a door in front through which laundry is loaded. This type of washer, often referred to as a high-efficiency (HE) washer, tumbles laundry in its drum, using less energy and water, requiring less detergent, and drying laundry more quickly than top-loaders. But front-loading machines tend to have longer wash cycles than top-loading machines, and their front-loading design forces you to bend down to reach your laundry.

top-loading washer

front-loading washer


Look for the ENERGY STAR LabelIn 1992, the U.S. government’s Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) started the ENERGY STAR program to pro-mote energy savings in consumer appliances and electron-ics. When shopping for washers and dryers, look for models that bear the ENERGY STAR logo—it means that they meet the EPA’s strict energy-efficiency guidelines. An ENERGY STAR washing machine uses 40% less energy and water than standard models.

Steam and Silver as Laundry AgentsIn recent years, some manufacturers have introduced hybrid washing machines that use new technologies, such as steam or silver, not only to clean but also to purify dirty laundry.

• Steam: Some washers come with a steam setting that releases steam and humidity into the washer’s chamber, cleaning lightly soiled laundry while conserving energy and water. The most notable example of a steam washer is LG’s TROMM SteamWasher™. Washing machines that use steam are more expensive than traditional models.

• Silver: Silver has odor-, stain-, and bacteria-fighting properties that make it a powerful purifying agent. Up-and-coming washing machines deposit silver ions into the load during the wash cycle. The most popular model, Samsung’s SilverCare™, claims to kill 99.99% of bacteria and odors in laundry. Because this technology is new, the SilverCare washer is more expensive than traditional washers.

Washing Machine Water TemperaturesDifferent types of fabrics require different water temperatures, so you’ll need to set your washing machine accordingly. Washers can be set to the following water temperatures:

Hot:• A hot-water wash has a temperature of 112°F or above. Hot water is very effective at removing stains, odors, and germs, and detergents tend to dissolve best at high temperatures. But hot water can also damage certain articles of laundry over time. Whites and colorfast items, for instance, are sturdy enough to benefit from hot-water washing, whereas brightly colored fabric can fade, and delicate fabric (such as wool and silk) can shrink or warp in hot water. Another major downside of hot-water washing is that it uses up a lot of energy, so it’s best to reserve this setting only for heavily soiled items.Warm:• A warm-water wash has a temperature of about 105°F. Blends, synthetics, and light- to medium-colored items (particularly noncolorfast fabrics) benefit most from this type of wash. But warm water isn’t as effective as hot water at removing stains, so it’s best to pretreat stains before tossing articles into a warm-water wash.Cold:• A cold-water wash has a temperature of 86°F or below. Brightly colored, non-colorfast, and delicate fabrics are best suited to cold-water washing, as lower tem-peratures are gentler on laundry than higher ones are. But cold water is also least effective at removing stains, so it’s necessary to pretreat stains before tossing items into a cold-water wash. Cold-water washing is also kind to the environment, as it uses relatively little energy. For this reason, companies now manufacture detergents designed specifically to dissolve in cold water.

Washing Machine CyclesA cycle is a washing machine setting that determines wash time, spin or tumble speed, and water temperature. Virtually all washing machines have three standard cycles:

Regular:• Also called normal, this cycle uses hot or warm water to wash sturdy fabrics, such as cotton, vigorously.Permanent press:• Also called the wrinkle-free or easy-care cycle, this type of wash is meant for wrinkle-treated fabrics, synthetics, and manmade fibers. It uses a cold-water rinse (most synthetics can’t tolerate heat) and a slower spin cycle. Delicate:• Also called gentle, this setting is meant for delicate fabrics, such as acrylic, silk, wool, acetate, and any articles composed of a delicate weave, which may tear, stretch, or pull in a more aggressive wash cycle. The delicate cycle uses cool to warm water and a slow washing action.

LG’s TROMM SteamWasher™ Samsung’s SilverCare™

More advanced washing machines may have extra cycles, including:

Cotton, silk, or wool:• These cycles are suited specifically to these fabrics.Extra long:• This lengthy wash is useful for heavily soiled items.Extra rinse:• The extra rinse in this cycle helps remove any leftover stains or detergent.Extra spin:• The extra spin time in this cycle helps press more water out of absorbent articles, such as towels and blankets.Hand wash:• This setting mimics the delicate action of actual handwashing.Quick:• This short cycle washes lightly soiled items in less time, using less water and energy than longer cycles.Sanitize:• This cycle releases a dose of extra-hot water into the wash mid-cycle to kill germs and bacteria.Soak:• Also called prewash, this quick cycle soaks items for a few minutes before the main cycle, helping to remove stains.

Washing Machine MaintenanceWashing machines and their various parts need regular maintenance and cleaning to stay in good working order. Consult the user manual that came with your machine, and also follow these guidelines:

Washer Part Problem Solution Frequency

Main tub or drum

Repeated washings leave behind dirt, detergent residue, and limescale de-posits, especially if you have hard water, which is high in minerals, such as calcium and magne-sium. (If your laundry tends to be dull, din-gy, and stiff after you wash it, you probably have hard water.)

To sanitize the machine, fill it with hot water (no laundry or detergent), add 1 quart chlorine bleach directly into the tub (not the bleach dispenser), and run a hot-water wash on the longest cycle. To remove mineral deposits, follow this cycle immediately by adding 1 quart white vinegar to the machine and running it again on the same long, hot- water cycle.

Every 3 months if you have very hard water; every 6 months if you have moderately hard water; once a year if you have soft water

Lint trap When too much lint clogs the lint trap, it can interfere with the machine’s performance.

Consult the user manual to locate your washer’s lint trap (it’s usually near the top), then remove built-up lint.

Once a month

Fabric softener dispenser

Residue from liquid fabric softener can leave bluish stains on laundry.

Warm a cup of white vinegar in the microwave or on the stove, pour it into the dispen ser, and run the empty machine through a short, hot-water cycle. If the dispenser is removable, soak it in a hot-water-and-vinegar solution.

Once a month or bimonthly

Bleach dispenser

Residue from bleach can leave faded spots on laundry.

If the dispenser is removable, rinse it in the sink with dishwash-ing detergent. If it’s stationary, use a pipe cleaner or rag to clean off residue.

Once a month or bimonthly

DryersA dryer is a front-loading appliance that dries laundry automatically. Like washers, dry-ers have cycle settings that determine the drying temperatures that they use. But unlike washers, dryers have programmable timers that allow you to specify the exact duration of the cycle—some dryers even feature a moisture sensor that automatically shuts off the machine when the laundry is dry, to avoid overdrying. Full-size dryers typically have a capacity of 4–7 cubic feet or more and are about 27–33" wide.

Types of DryersThough some dryers dry laundry through alternate means, such as heat pumps and cen-trifugal force, the most common type of automatic dryer in the United States is a tumble dryer, which tumbles damp laundry in a barrel, dispersing hot air and blowing out moisture through an exhaust pipe that leads outdoors. There are two types of tumble dryers: electric and gas.

ENERGY STAR logo


Electric dryer:• This is the oldest and most common type of tumble dryer. It runs on a 240-volt electric current and therefore requires a 240-volt outlet that can accom-modate either a three- or four-pronged plug. (Like washers, dryers are available in ENERGY STAR models.) Electric dryers are cheaper than gas dryers but are more expensive to operate, costing you more in the long run.Gas dryer:• This type of dryer runs on natural gas, so the area where you plan to place your gas dryer should have a gas line. Though gas dryers are a bit more expensive to buy, they’re less expensive to operate because they don’t run on electricity, so they end up saving you money in the long run.

Space-Saving UnitsStandard washers and dryers are large units that take up a lot of space, so many manufac-turers now offer space-saving alternatives:

• Compact dryers: These svelte dryers are about 24" wide and have a capacity of 2 –4 cubic feet. Compact dryers are ideal for homes where space is at a premium.

• Stackable dryers: These dryers are designed to sit on top of matching front-load washers, saving floor space.

• Combination washer/dryers: Also called laundry centers, these hybrids provide a washer and dryer in one unit.

Dryer CyclesDryers come with three standard settings: regular, permanent press, and low/delicate.

Regular:• This is the highest setting on a dryer. It uses hot air to dry sturdy items, such as jeans, underwear, and towels, that are not prone to shrinkage.Permanent press:• This medium setting uses warm air to dry synthetics, blends, and anything labeled “tumble dry medium.” It usually includes a cooldown period. To prevent wrinkles, remove items from the dryer immediately after this cycle ends.Low/delicate:• This is the lowest cycle on a dryer. It uses relatively cool air to dry delicate items, such as lingerie, woolens, hand-washables, and anything prone to shrinkage or labeled “tumble dry low.”

Dryer MaintenanceA dryer needs regular maintenance to function properly. Follow these guidelines:

After each load, clean out the • lint filter and the space in which it sits. It’s a good idea to vacuum this area now and then as well. A clogged lint filter slows down the performance of the dryer and presents a fire hazard.Once every couple of months, clean the inner walls of the dryer with a damp cloth.•Once a year, remove the vent pipe or exhaust hose and clean the lint out of it, then •reattach it, resealing the joints with duct tape if needed.Make sure the vent pipe is free of kinks, which can block the flow of air.•

How to Wash LaundryMost fabrics can be laundered in a washing machine—labels will indicate clearly when items should be hand washed or dry cleaned instead. Cleaning laundry in the washing machine saves time and yields the best results.

Prepare Clothing for LaunderingBefore tossing your sorted laundry into the wash:

Turn items inside out:• This slows the fading of fabric on its visible side.Empty pockets:• Tissues, lip balm, chewing gum, and other foreign objects left in pockets can stain or damage your laundry.Check for tears and runs:• Rigorous washing action can worsen existing damage.Zip up zippers:• An open zipper can snag fabrics.Do a colorfastness test:• Some boldly colored fabric dyes may bleed in water or fade dramatically in colorsafe bleach. Most items that are not colorfast are labeled “wash separately.” But if you’re wary of a brightly colored item that’s never been washed before, test it first. Put a drop of water onto a hidden spot—such as the inside of a hem or seam—then blot it with a cotton ball. If the cotton stays clean, it’s safe to wash the garment with other fabrics. If it picks up some of the dye, wash the item separately. You can perform the same test to determine whether it’s okay to use colorsafe bleach.

compact dryer stackable dryer combination washer/dryer

How to Pretreat LaundryPretreating is the process of presoaking items and pretreating stains before laundering the items. Pretreating can help to remove odors but is particularly important when dealing with stains—washing and drying a fabric without first pretreating it can cause some stains to set, making them virtually impossible to remove.

How to Presoak LaundryHeavily soiled items, such as gym clothes, should be presoaked to remove tough stains and odors before the items go through the main wash. Presoaking also helps oxygen bleach to work better. You can presoak laundry whether you’re washing it in a machine or by hand.

Machine presoaking:• Most washing machines have optional presoak settings that soak clothes in a water-and-detergent mixture for 15–60 minutes before launching into the wash cycle. Newer washers presoak laundry automatically when certain heavy-duty cycles are selected.Hand-wash presoaking:• Pretreat hand-washable items by mixing mild detergent into a sinkful of water and letting the items sit in this solution for 15–60 minutes.

How to Pretreat StainsIf any of your items have visible stains or perspiration marks, set them aside for pretreat-ing. Dampen the stained area and rub a stain stick (see Laundry Supplies) or a dab of liquid detergent directly onto the spot. Then toss the item into the wash.

How to Machine-Wash LaundryOnce laundry has been sorted and pretreated, it’s ready to be washed. Follow these steps:

Select the appropriate cycle and press start. If you’re washing everyday clothing and 1. linens that are only lightly soiled and have no stains, it’s okay to select a gentler, cold-water cycle. A cold-water cycle is safe for any material, and using it saves energy.Add detergent as the machine is filling with water—if you add detergent only after 2. the laundry is already loaded, it can get concentrated in the fabric and not rinse out fully, causing faded or greasy spots. If the load is small, it’s okay to use less than the recommended amount of detergent and select the short cycle to save time, money, energy, and water. In modern machines, you may also add liquid fabric softener at this stage (see step 4).Load the laundry and let it wash. A standard wash cycle is about 20–40 minutes long—3. if you’re using a front-loading washer, expect the cycle to last a little longer.During the final rinse (depending on your machine), add liquid fabric softener either 4. into the softener dispenser or into the wash itself. The package will suggest an appropriate amount. If in doubt, use less—fabric softener tends to be greasy and can build up on clothing. Take laundry out of the machine as soon as possible after the cycle ends and transfer 5. it to the dryer, drying rack, or clothesline. Damp clothes that sit in the washer too long can develop a musty, mildew-like smell.

Should You Wash New Items Before Wearing?If you or someone in your household has sensitive skin, it’s a good idea to wash new items before wearing or using them. Manufacturers often treat fabrics with special finishes that resist wrinkles, dirt, and oils so that the items will look their best in stores. These finishes tend to be hard on sensitive skin. One wash in the appropriate cycle should do the trick.

Laundry Troubleshooting for the WasherOccasionally, laundry will come out of the machine in worse condition than when it went in. Below are the most common laundry pitfalls and how to remedy them.

Problem Likely Cause(s) Solution(s)

Dingy/gray discoloration

Load not properly •washed (due to low water temperature, poor sorting, too little deter-gent, or too much fabric softener)

Rewash load, using presoak, •strong detergent, hot water, bleach (if applicable), and laundry additive.

Color bleeding

One or more articles in •wash are not colorfast

Remove noncolorfast item(s) and •rewash load with strong detergent, hot water, and bleach (if safe for items).

Tears Excessive use or misuse •of bleachOpen zipper or hook •in washOverloaded or improp-•erly loaded washer

Use amount of bleach appropriate •to size of load, or dilute bleach with water.Close all zippers and hooks prior •to washing.Don’t overfill washer.•Isolate delicates in mesh bag.•


Brown or rust-colored stains

Iron or manganese in •water supply

Have local water utility company •test water for rust.To remove rust stains, fill washer •with water, select appropriate cycle, add 1/3 cup rust remover to water, and let dissolve. Then add laundry. Follow with rinse cycle or regular cycle with detergent. (To test for colorfastness, add one teaspoon rust remover to one cup water, then place one drop of that solution on inconspicuous spot on item. Let spot dry and see whether color changes.)

Excessive lint Low water pressure•Improper draining•Improper sorting•Overloading•

If water pressure seems low when •water is filling, look for kinks in hoses and check screens in hoses for buildup of sediment.Once water has filled to maximum •level, advance dial manually to final spin cycle. Start timer at be-ginning of spin cycle, wait 90 sec-onds, then open lid. If all water has not drained, check drain hose for kinks or call a professional.

How to Hand-Wash LaundryAny item that’s lacy, embroidered, noncolorfast, vintage (made before washing machines were used), or otherwise delicate or valuable should be hand washed in a sink or basin. In particular, very delicate lingerie and items labeled “hand wash only” must be hand washed. Though time-consuming, handwashing will protect your delicates from damage, fading, and shrinkage, prolonging the life of the fabric. To hand-wash laundry:

Make sure that your fingernails have no ragged edges. Wearing waterproof gloves is a 1. good idea, but it’s not necessary.Fill the sink or basin with cool water, then add a capful of mild detergent. 2. Wash items one or two at a time (wash noncolorfast items separately). Swish the 3. item(s) through the sudsy water, then let them soak for a few minutes. Squeeze the sudsy water gently out of the fabric. Don’t twist or wring the item. Drain the basin or sink and rinse the item with cool water until the water runs clear. 4. Roll the item in a dry towel to absorb excess water. If the item is noncolorfast, use an 5. old towel that you don’t mind ruining.Depending on the item’s care label, hang it or lay it flat to dry—never tumble dry a 6. hand-washable item. If you don’t have a drying rack, hang the item on a plastic or wooden hanger or lay it flat on a clean, dry towel. Remember to reshape knits or other stretchy garments to preserve their shape when you lay them out to dry.

How to Dry-Clean LaundryDry cleaning is the process of laundering items—mainly clothing and certain types of bedding—with chemicals instead of water or standard detergent. Though there are at-home kits that simulate the action of dry cleaning (see below), real dry cleaning can only be done by professionals, as it requires bulky machinery and special training. Dry cleaning is more expensive than machine washing, and it takes longer—usually a few days to a week—for your laundry to be ready. You should take your garments and bedding to be dry cleaned if:

Their care labels indicate to do so •They’re filled with down or feathers (for example, coats, duvets, and pillows)•They have tough stains that you can’t remove on your own•They have an odor that won’t come out in the washer•

Because professional dry cleaners are trained to remove different types of stains, you should point out and identify specific stains whenever possible so that the dry cleaner knows which types of chemicals to use. Never take an item of laundry to the dry cleaner unless its label recommends this type of laundering specifically. Some fabrics can’t withstand the chemicals used in professional dry cleaning.

At-Home Dry-Cleaning KitsAt-home dry-cleaning kits include cloths treated with dry-cleaning chemicals, stain removal liquid, and reusable, dryer-safe bags to contain laundry. These kits are great occasional substitutes for dry cleaning, especially for removing odors (some, but not all, kits can get rid of stains too). To save time, you may also opt to launder lightly soiled delicates with an at-home dry-cleaning kit instead of by hand. Dryel® is a popular at-home dry-cleaning kit. To use an at-home dry-cleaning kit:

Treat stains with the provided stain-removal liquid.1. Put a pretreated cloth and the laundry items in the dryer-safe bag.2. Toss the bag in the dryer and select the cycle indicated in the kit’s instructions.3. When the cycle is over, remove the bag immediately so that no wrinkles can set. 4.

How to Dry LaundryThough most of your clean laundry should be dryer-safe, always remember to check care labels before tossing items into an automatic dryer. Dryer-related damage is often irrevers-ible. When in doubt, hang or lay items flat to dry.

How to Machine-Dry LaundryUsing the tumble dryer is the quickest and easiest way to dry your laundry. To machine dry successfully, remember the following guidelines:

Don’t overfill the dryer. Fabric expands as it dries, and an oversize load can reduce the •machine’s efficiency, hampering its ability to tumble the items. Plus, the laundry will take much longer to dry.Don’t underfill the dryer. Clothes in an undersize load will clump together, and you’ll •waste energy to boot. If you have a small load that needs to be tumble dried, toss in a few dry, non–lint-producing items to facilitate the tumbling action.Take advantage of leftover heat by drying multiple loads back-to-back.•Remove items immediately after the drying cycle ends. When laundry is left sitting in •the machine for too long, it can shrink or develop wrinkles. To prevent overdrying—which can cause yellowing, wrinkles, shrinking, loss of •elasticity, and textural damage—set the timer conservatively. You can always check the laundry at the end of the cycle to see whether it needs more drying time.Remove items with thick seams, such as jeans, when the flat parts are dry but the •seams are still slightly damp. Doing so will help prevent overdrying.

Laundry Troubleshooting for the Dryer

Problem Likely Cause(s) Solution

Shrinking Dryer temperature was •set too high, or item wasn’t meant to be tumble dried

Check care labels when items •come out of wash—especially if you’re washing items for the first time.

Static cling Laundry was overdried•Item is simply susceptible •to static

Put dryer sheet in dryer and •redry load.

Laundry takes too long to dry

Lint trap is clogged•Load was too big•

Clean lint trap and fill dryer only •one-third full—remember that fabric expands as it dries.

Wrinkles Laundry was left sitting in •dryer for too long

Put damp towel in dryer and •redry load.

How to Line-Dry LaundryBefore automatic dryers were invented, people had no choice but to hang their laundry or lay it flat to dry. Even when you have a dryer, you may sometimes choose to take advantage of your clothesline in mild weather to save energy or just let laundry absorb the smell of fresh air. If you do, remember the following guidelines:

Always make sure the clothespins and clothesline are clean before hanging laundry. If •your clothesline is made of rope, you can wash it with a simple household cleaner or a solution of water and detergent whenever it looks dirty.Keep a liberal supply of clothespins on hand so that you won’t run out halfway through. •Wooden clothespins are common, but plastic ones are less likely to leave marks on fabric.Extend standard fabrics about 4" over the line, then pin. To secure heavier fabrics, •extend them halfway or a third of the way over the line, then pin.Don’t let items drag on the ground.•When hanging flat articles, such as sheets and towels, hang them widthwise with their •hems parallel to the line. This takes up less space and puts less stress on the line.Hang pillowcases with their open end facing up and pinned at either corner. This way, •they’ll catch wind and billow in the breeze.To make sure towels are fluffy when dry, shake them vigorously (make them snap) •before hanging them—doing so loosens the pile (fluffy texture) of the fabric. Do the same when you take them down.To prevent fading on very sunny days, hang colored laundry inside out on a shady spot •on the line—or don’t hang it outside at all. Similarly, whites can yellow from prolonged exposure to sunlight, so limit their exposure time whenever possible.If you want to line dry your laundry year round, buy an indoor clothesline (try •www.stacksandstacks.com) and hang it in your basement or laundry room.


How to Use a LaundromatIf you don’t have the space or means to own a washer and dryer, your alternative is to do your laundry at a nearby laundromat. Laundromats may offer do-it-yourself facilities, drop-off/pick-up service, delivery service, or a combination of the above. Having the employees at the laundromat wash, dry, and fold your laundry for you is always more expensive than doing the laundry yourself. (For more on folding items, see the Quamut guide to How to Fold Everything.)

Cost of doing laundry yourself:• Each washer in a laundromat generally takes $1–5 in quarters, depending on its size, and each dryer typically takes one quarter per 6–8 minutes. Some laundromats now have washers and dryers that accept prepaid laundry cards instead of quarters. If you wash one load of laundry and dry it for one hour, it can cost anywhere from $3.50 to $7.50.Cost of drop-off laundry service:• Usually, laun-dromats charge by the pound—$0.75 to $1.00 per pound is pretty standard. A typical load of laundry weighs 10–25 pounds, costing anywhere from $7.50 to $25.00.

Laundromat SuppliesTake the following items with you to the laundromat:

Your laundry in a basket or laundry bag•Detergent•Fabric softener•A roll of quarters•

How to Use Laundromat Washers and DryersThe washers and dryers at laundromats are similar to machines designed for homes in some ways, including:

Settings•Water temperatures•Cycle durations•

But laundromat facilities are also different in several ways. In a laundromat:

Washers and dryers require quarters (or prepaid cards) •to operate.Many washers and dryers have larger capacities than •at-home machines. Machines may not be as well-maintained or cleaned as •you’d like.Compartments for detergents and fabric softeners are •located atop the washer.Washers typically tumble rather than agitate.•

Here are a few tips for using laundromat facilities the right—and polite—way:

If compartments for detergent are not located on top of •the machine, put the detergent right into the machine as it starts filling with water, before loading laundry.Laundromat washers usually have just the basic •cycles—regular, delicate, and permanent press. Washing times don’t vary as widely—25–40 minutes is typical.Remember that you’re sharing washers and dryers—•leaving your laundry in the machine too long is not only harmful to your clothes but also inconsiderate to others.Never leave laundry unattended.•Because most laundromat washers are front-load •models, remember that they don’t require as much detergent as a top loader. A half cupful is fine.

Starch:• This spray-on solution is similar to sizing but more concentrated, leaving fabrics a bit stiffer.

Ironing TechniquesBefore ironing, close any zippers and fasten any buttons, hooks, and clasps on your items. Set up the ironing board in a well-lit spot, at waist height and with its wide end facing to your right (if you’re right-handed). Fill the iron’s reservoir with water, then plug it in and choose the appropriate setting. When ironing, use one hand to guide the iron and the other to smooth the fabric and pull it taut as you work. Iron as large an area as possible, then stand the iron on its heel while you rearrange the garment. Spray sizing or starch—particularly on stubborn spots, such as collars and cuffs—while holding the can about 6–10" from the fabric. Then run the iron over the area.

Ironing vs. PressingThere are two general techniques that are used to get fabric smooth with a steam iron:

Ironing:• This is the process of sliding the steam iron back and forth over the fabric while applying light pressure. Ironing is the more common technique.Pressing:• This entails placing the iron in one spot, then lifting it. You may choose to place a protective cloth, called a pressing cloth, over the item that you’re pressing. Pressing is recommended on more heat-sensitive items, such as men’s suits, wool, net, pile fabrics, and some silks and rayons.

Ironing TipsGet the best ironing results by using the following tips:

To prevent • shine—a common result when ironing certain fabrics—iron the garment inside out or use a pressing cloth. Iron sleeves and pockets more easily by first stuffing •them with tissue paper, a washcloth, or a sleeve board.To iron pleats, pin them in place, then pull them taut and •iron from the waist to the hem.If a fabric is stretchy or cut on the • bias (cut diagonally), iron it in the direction of the weave.If a fabric is piled (such as velvet), hold the iron’s sole-•plate above the garment—don’t let it touch—and shoot it with steam only.Iron around buttons, not on them. Buttons may crack or •melt under heat or scratch the iron’s soleplate.

Iron Safety, Maintenance, and TroubleshootingTo stay safe and make sure your iron stays in good working order, do the following:

Test the soleplate first:• To avoid burning a fabric, always test the soleplate’s heat before using the iron. Iron either an inconspicuous portion of the garment or a rag made of the same or similar material. Unplug it:• Keep the iron plugged in only when you’re actually using it.Clean the iron after each use:• When the iron is cool, wipe the soleplate with a damp cloth. Never use an abrasive cleaner or steel wool on the soleplate. If starch or other residue builds up:• Buy a specially designed iron cleaner, available at most home centers, or use an old toothbrush to scrub on a paste made of baking soda and water (the soleplate can withstand a low level of abrasion). If the iron becomes clogged:• First, make sure that you’re using the right type of water (tap vs. distilled)—doing so will help prevent clogs. If your iron does clog, pour white vinegar into the water reservoir and turn on the iron, letting the heated vinegar sit in the reservoir until it’s all released as steam. Iron a clean rag to make sure all of the vinegar is released. Then unplug the iron, let it cool, and rinse out the reservoir with cool water.

Ironing BasicsWhen you take your clothes out of the dryer, some of them will be wrinkled. An electric iron is the easiest way to press these wrinkles out of fabrics. Most irons use both heat and steam and are called steam irons. A steam iron has several parts:

Soleplate:• This nonstick iron plate heats up quickly and evenly. The soleplates of steam irons feature a series of holes through which steam is released.Water reservoir:• This is a space in the iron that holds water. When an iron is plugged in, the water in the reservoir heats up and is released through the soleplate as steam, which works in tandem with heat and pressure to help remove wrinkles. Some steam irons can operate with tap water; others call for distilled water. If your locality has hard water, it’s best to use distilled water in your iron.Steam button:• This button lets you control when steam is released from the iron. Some steam irons also have a button that lets you spray water onto the fabric.

Iron SettingsNot all fabrics require or can tolerate the same level of heat, so steam irons feature various settings for different types of material. Choose these settings carefully to prevent perma-nent damage to your clothing and linens. There are universal symbols in the form of dots that represent the three most common settings on steam irons. They are:

One dot:• The iron’s cool setting—248°F. Use this setting for synthetic materials.Two dots:• The iron’s warm setting—320°F. Use this setting for silk and wool.Three dots:• The iron’s hot setting—370°F. Use this setting for cotton and linen.

Though the above system is still in use, many modern irons have more than three settings. On these irons, each setting should indicate the type of fabric for which it’s intended.

How to IronIroning isn’t essential, but it helps your clothes look their best—some fabrics, such as cotton and linen, wrinkle very easily. Depending on your time and devotion to the task, you may even want to iron other household fabrics, such as bed sheets and hand towels.

Ironing SuppliesIn addition to a steam iron, you’ll need the following supplies to iron your laundry:

• Ironing board: Whether it’s a floorstanding or table model, the ironing board should be padded and have a smooth, heat-resistant cover.

Sizing:• This spray-on solution helps remove wrinkles, restores body to the fabric, and forms a protective layer that repels dirt. Cotton and linen benefit most from sizing.

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Laundry and Ironing Basics