4

It is only in lakes that land andwater find a balancing point. Wateris a fluid element that gushes fromsprings, roars while falling, flowsvigorously along rivers, and poursendlessly into sea. Subject to its in-cessant action, land experiencescontinuous destruction and recon-struction, in the form of an unceas-ing and exhausting process of trans-forming, eroding, crumbling. Inthis unstable relationship, lakes rep-resent the exception. Some type ofprimordial alliance, of original con-tract between the two elements, hasallowed the serene nature of waterto occupy pacifically the spaces of-

fered by land. Lakes are casts ofground, perfect synthesis betweensolidity and liquidity.

This is perhaps why lakes aggre-gate people, who gather aroundthem. The banks of a river separate:frequently the inhabitants of theopposing banks are rivals. On thecontrary, lakes do not create juxta-positions. Neither a “on this side”nor a “on the other side” are given,determined by any geographicalbarrier. The shores of a lake draw aclosed perimeter, an uninterruptedcircle, comprising the surroundingsettlements as if in a ideal, wider,community.

lakes Enchanting reflections

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Lombardia

The Lombard territory includes – in addition to the three largest lakes in Italy,Maggiore, Garda, and Como – a multitude of small bodies of water, which arereal high-altitude oases: the alpine ponds.Equally distributed throughout the three districts of Sondrio, Bergamo, andBrescia, they are an ideal destination for those, whether experienced hikers orsimple tourists, who want to take advantage of walking trails or cycle routes,while discovering places far away from the crowded city and enjoying the sheerunadulterated beauty and the serenity conveyed by this pristine area.

6

How many are Lombard lakes?They are countless: nobody wouldbe able to list all the expanses of wa-ter, from the largest to the smallponds, dotting the region. Just thinkof the tiny lakes nestled in Alps,which in Spring flash with blue re-flections, as ice starts melting, whilewaiting for the Summer to offer

every nuance of green and blue.Thanks to a magical connection withthe sky, their waters imitate so pure-ly and perfectly its transparency thatyou would say that they do not be-long to this world. As though beingchips of glass embedded in opaquerock, lakes bewitch by means of thealways surprising and unexpected

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Lombardia

contiguity between their solidity andliquid and transparent essence. Theproverbial hardness of granite, frozenin sharp forms, sustains and en-velopes this delicate “crystalware” ofnature, like a cupped hand carefullyholding a few drops of liquid. Gran-ite gorges extend towards the bottomof valleys and provide lakes with a

view sweeping to the infinite hori-zon, as if watching from a privilegedbalcony protruding from a noblepalace. The small lakes Piodella,Truzzo, Emet and Angeloga offer en-thralling sights of Chiavenna, whileMasino Valley hosts the graciouslakes Lagazzuolo and Entova, sweet-en by green fir woods.

8

Wooded slopes and relaxing landscapes welcome those interested in exploring the lakesaround Varese area; the largest is Lake Varese, that takes its name from the city. Nearthe west shore, Isolino Virginia, a small island reachable by boat from Biandronno, iswell worth visiting; the site, a peaceful and quiet oasis, is provided with facilities for

In more comfortable zones, be-tween plain and hill, other littlelakes spared from fame and masstourism rest in pristine natural set-tings; for example Lake Endine,bordered by thick reeds, whose un-contaminated habitat remains en-tirely preserved, or lakes Ganna

9

Lombardia

sailing, sports and professional fishing, and canoeing. The small Lake Monate is an inte-gral part of Lake Maggiore. Further along the coast road, is Lake Comabbio, once form-ing a single body with Lake Varese. Ghirla and Ganna lakes, instead, are situatedimmediately below the mountain zone.

and Brinzio, enclosed by luxuriantmarsh vegetation. These are justsome of the unnumbered enclavesin which a green panorama, im-mersed in silence, unfolds beforethe eyes of respectful visitors, luckyenough to appreciate the gift of get-ting into direct touch with nature.

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Ever since they were discovered, the main Italian lakes, Maggiore, Garda, andComo, are a favourite destination for tourists and travellers, attracted by their enchant-

ing blue waters and natural sceneries. Today, the daily lake cruises organized byNavigazione Laghi allow the visitor to fully enjoy the ethereal atmospheres of thesesheets of water, that are unique in the world. This is the case, for example, of Lago

Maggiore Express proposal, consisting of a memorable one-day excursion along Lake

settled there for long periods oreven for good, describing themwith a passionate admiration.

As if following a gigantic cata-clysm, erased from collective mem-ory, fragments of Mediterranean gotentrapped amid formidable moun-tain walls, resembling so much ofnorthern territories, likewise Lom-bard lakes offered travellers the un-predicted, amazing, and early illu-sion of southern regions. Such a vi-sion seems to evoke the myth ofsweet and warm Shangri-la in theinhospitable Himalayan coldness.

The name and the fascination ofthe Lombard lakes, though, aremostly related to the major basins,the lakes Maggiore, Como, Garda,Iseo, and Idro. When discoveringabout them, intellectuals and artistsfrom all parts of Europe got en-chanted and enthralled. They start-ed descending from North regionsto accomplish the rite of “GrandTour” of Italy, the country of classi-cal art and Renaissance. Many ofthem fell in love for the incompara-ble landscape of the Lombard lakesthrough which they proceeded, and

11

Lombardia

Maggiore’s shores; first, by boat to Locarno, then, by train, through the wonderfulSwiss Centovalli and Italian Val Vigezzo valleys. The ferry car service operating onLake Garda gives the opportunity to explore a region rich in historical, natural, andcultural significance. On Lake Como, in addition to the boat trip, you may considervisiting one of the local villas, today like yesterday important meeting points for artistsand intellectuals.

12

Inside a park extending at the foot of Gargnacco hill, nearby Gardone di Sopra, sits themonumental Vittoriale degli Italiani villa, the dwelling of the poet and vates GabrieleD’Annunzio. This is a surprising structure, enclosing different “worlds”, recalling the

artistic and literary climate of the first half of the 20th century.

In mountains that in Winter arewhitened by snow, it is nearly a mir-acle for lemon orchards of Garda toemit a scent so sunny, warm, and vi-tal. Astonishing is the tepid air inwhich olive trees cast their brightshadows onto slopes, by stretchingup and out their knotty trunks andtwisted branches; unusual the radi-ant sun which enriches vines withheavy and sweet bunches of grapes.

Sometimes Winter opens the door

to northern winds; the narrow,wavy, and intricate aspect of pre-alpine lakes can recall fjords (whichalso had been once valleys, later in-vaded and dipped by waters). Thisis true, but similarities with theNorth stop here. The unbelievablymild climate, the richness of flora,the warm light of glowing tints:everything helps to create smallworlds independent from the larg-er region that encompasses them.

13

Lombardia

That portion of the north coast of Garda comprised between Gargnano and Limone,actually coinciding with the Alto Garda Bresciano park, is also known as Lemon Riviera,because of the characteristic lemon orchards planted in the rock gardens decoratingGarda’s shores. The terraced gardens remain as a demonstration of this agriculture-architecture technique peculiar to this part of Italy. At least the great lemon orchardcalled “Prato della fame” (Meadow of Hunger) is worth visiting.

NELLA PAGINA A FIANCO

Breve didascalia di due o tre righeche illustri la foto a destra

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For some years the local authorities have been managing an interesting tourism-orientedrecovery project, focused on restoring the ancient road system. In particular, the project

involves the Sentiero del Viandante (Wayfarer’s Trail) brought back to light by a group ofenthusiastic local researchers. Ever since used by simple travellers and merchants, todaythe trail offers visitor a fascinating walking experience from the north to the south of the

lake. The path passes by the villages of Borbino, Sonvico, Genico, Vezio, Bellano, Dervio,Corenno Plinio, Posallo, and Madonna di Val Pozzo. To the pleasure of body and spirit.

None the less, letters and diarieswritten by many romantic travellersoften convey the fascination exert-ed by storms (as occasional as theyare violent) raging on lakes and bydisturbing secrets that the profounddarkness of Bellano's gorge seem tohide and concretize in the powerfulstream flowing through its blackcave.

On the other hand, travellers de-voted a lot of space to the ecstaticand dreamful brightness of theseplaces, the harmonious vision oflandscapes, the generous vegeta-tion. Recurring themes of theirwork refer to light effects on ruffledwaters, clear skies, golden and daz-zling reflections given back by lakesat sunset, delicate and soft lappingof waves.

Literature

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Lombardia

Ce matin à cinq heures, nous sommes partis de Como dans une barque couverte d’une belle

teinte bleu et blanc. Nous avons visité la villa de la princesse de Galles, la Pliniana at sa

fontaine intermittente; la lettre de Pline est gravée sur le marbre. Le lac devient en cet endroit

sombre et sauvage; les montagnes se précipitent presque à pic dans les eaux.

Stendhal, Rome, Naples et Florence en 1817

Tra levante e mezzogiorno il lago gira dietro un promontorio, un alto scoglio rossastro, a

nascondervi la sua fine oscura; piccolo lago di misura e di fama, ambizioso però e orgoglioso

della sua corona di monti, appassionato, mutabile; ora violetto, ora verde, ora plumbeo;

talvolta, verso la pianura, anche azzurro. Là è il suo riso, là si colora delle nuvole infocate al

tramonto e brilla d’una sola fiamma quando il vento meridiano lo corruga sotto l’alto sole

d’estate.

Antonio Fogazzaro, Malombra, 1881

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These small worlds are separatedfrom the rest not only because oftheir particular climate and territo-ry, but also – in some tracts – be-cause of the physic, protective bar-rier formed by their shores. Espe-cially the lakes Como and Gardaare limited at long intervals by highwalls, steep wooded ravines, or gid-dy cliffs falling sheer into the water.Which is why villages built on smallstrips of land in between the lakeand the mountain have preferredcreating their own relationshipswith other lake settlements, ratherthan addressing villages located be-hind them, often so hard to reach,though being apparently so close.Thus lake is a world apart, au-tonomous. In addiction, its loca-tion itself (a narrow belt betweenthe lake and the mountain) has of-ten defended it from an invasivemodernity... Many enchanting vil-lages have kept their traditional as-pect, probably owing to the factthat there was not space available toexpand their boundaries furher.

Literature

17

Lombardia

Kennst du das Land? Wo die Zitronen blühn,

Im dunkeln Laub die Gold-Orangen glühn,

Ein sanfter Wind vom blauen Himmel weht,

Die Myrte still und hoch der Lorbeer steht.

Kennst du es wohl?

Wolfgang Goethe, Wilhelm Meisters Lehrjahre, 1795-96

The beautiful day was just declining, when we came upon the Lago Maggiore, with its

lovely islands. For however fanciful and fantastic the Isola Bella maybe, and is, it still is

beautiful. Anything springing out of that blue water with that scenery around it, must be.

It was ten o’clock at night when we got to Domo d’Ossola, at the foot of the Pass of the

Simplon. But as the moon was shining brightly, and there was not a cloud in the starlit sky,

it was no time for going to bed, or going anywhere but on. So, we got a little carriage,

after some delay, and began the ascent.

Charles Dickens, Pictures from Italy, 1846

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Lombardia

Once a year, the lake town of Dervio (especially known for its yearly rich sailingrace programme) organises the prestigious International Cartoons & Comics Festival.This year the event will celebrate its 6th anniversary. It features over 100 competingfilms and numerous performances, appealing to people of all ages. During theFestival, comics and cartoon expositions are held. They are particularly interesting,because they involve a widespread and multiform phenomenon, which can justifiablyclaim some role in the national publishing industry.

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A 2-hour walk across the green Val Menaggio permits the visitor to admire the typicalsceneries of Lake Piano. The trail starts from Bene Lario, on the wooded sides of MonteGalbiga. After a while the road from the village narrows into a trail heading to the oldLembra wash house. A little further is Vecchi Mulini, the border of Lake Piano Reserve.

From here the track continues on the edge of a large reed bed, before reaching the southshore of the lake, where Castel San Pietro is situated. This is a remarkable conglomerate

of houses, built in the Middle Ages for defensive purposes. Past the ancient village, awide dirt road leads to the “Casa della riserva” for a well-deserved rest.

merchants and pilgrims, travelledthe calm inland waters cuttingtrough the mountains. These lakeswere so important that, during theRoman age, one of the five imperi-al Admiralships was headquarteredon Lake Como. To date, Colico andMenaggio – two small towns nearComo, on the road once linkingSwitzerland and Milan via Splugapass – still show some traces of theiroriginal “port vocation”.

Some of these villages grew biggerdue to trade exchanges. In fact, mer-chants used to call in their welcom-ing harbours while sailing up thewaterways from lowland cities tothe active Swiss markets. Goods andpeople passed via these lake ports,before the railway had been laid allover Europe. Until then, for manyyears spices and essences from FarEast, rich brocades from Milan, im-palpable silks from Como, as well as

Food and Wine

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Lombardia

At night, near the end of June, allis shads leave deep waters and migrate close to shore

for breeding. In this season lakes Como and Ceresio become the backdrop for a

traditional night net fishing. This is the best moment to catch fish, as they do not feed when

spawning and thus their flesh is leaner and tenderer.

At first allis shads are eviscerated and salted; after some days, they are rinsed and left to

dry in open air. After some more days pressing, the last operation, is performed: fish are

put in special vessels (once made of wood and now of tin) and a heavy stone is placed

on them, so that the fish release their own oil. This particular process completed, allis shads

take the dialectal name of missoltini, strictly typical of local gastronomy, which wants them

to be broiled with oil and vinegar and served with polenta.

Missoltini are a very ancient recipe, as demonstrated by the allis shad represented in a

mosaic in San Giovanni Romanesque baptistry. Of course we would like to hope that this

tradition survives, even if it is becoming rarer and rarer to see fish hanging from rafters.

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Distant from mercantile routes,other small villages of fishermen seetheir survival depending on lake's.These small antique worlds (Picco-lo Mondo Antico being a 1895 nov-el by Antonio Fogazzaro, set onLake Como) have managed to keepcalm and relaxed rhythms of life. Infact, despite the numerous visitorshosted, they have resisted the blan-dishments of tourism and have notturned into mass destinations. All

these villages are quite alike, withtheir multi-coloreud houses, light-ly faded by time. One next to an-other, facing small ports, pushed to-wards the lake by some incumbentmountain, embraced by a green,thick verdure, even today thesehouses contain simple lives. Fishingis always a part of this anthropiclandscape, in which fish are let todry on rafters and boats swing lazi-ly at their moorings.

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Lombardia

The sagra of St. John the Baptist (at Como) is a people’s festival, firmly rooted in thewhole community. The sagra takes place annually at the end of May in Comacina,which is the only island in Lake Como: a procession is held in which are used lumini(small lamps burning oil or wax) made of snail shells. The flame reflections on the waterrevive a local tradition, according to which once a year the lake developed a bright redcoloration. Particularly poetic are the mass, celebrated in Santa Eufemia’s basilica; theregatta among racing lucie (lucia being the typical boat of Lake Como); the solemn pro-cession aboard boats, with flag throwers, people wearing historic costumes and folkloregroups; and, finally, an intriguing food festival.

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These villages, founded and de-veloped along with the rhythm ofwork and fulfilment of vital needs,today captivate us with their spon-taneous grace and beauty devoid ofpretence and embellishment.

At the centre of Lake Iseo lies is-land Monte Isola, on which sitsPeschiera Miraglio, with its peace-ful little squares overlooking thelake; on Lake Como, the magic ofVarenna, Carate Urio, and Sala Co-macina (in peninsulas or protectedbays) stems from their houses beingso close to the shore; on Lake Gar-da, Gargnano offers its unitary ar-chitecture, consisting of buildings,lemon orchards, cypresses.

All these view enchanted roman-tic travellers, who purposely coinedthe category of picturesque, a con-cept combining beauty of agedbuildings with random harmony ofnatural landscapes.

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Lombardia

The Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano (the equivalent of the National Trust) was estab-lished with the purpose to safeguard the Italian artistic and cultural heritage. Thisorganisation runs many yearly events in the places under its jurisdiction, so that peo-ple can understand, appreciate and experience the special symbols that make Italy atruly unique land. Places of rare beauty, such as Grumello Castle at Sondrio, the ArtNouveau Edicola at Mantua, the Monastery at Torba, the Balbianello Villa at Lenno,the Tower at Velate, and the Menafoglio Litta Panza Villa.

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River Mera – thanks to its weak current contained by wide embankments and its softsandy bed – is an ideal river for canoeing, specifically in the section from Gordona to

San Fedelino’s church. The journey on the river leads you away from the city noise,through peaceful and quiet places crowned by the majestic peaks of Val Chiavenna, slop-ing down Spluga pass to the lake. By leaving Chiavenna behind and paddling along theright bank, the very first town you come to is the small village of Dascio, from where you

can reach the Passo bridge, linking Valtellina with the north shore of Lake Como.

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Lombardia

When talking about “nets”, these days our thoughts run immediately to the Internet, the

virtual net. Instead, at Monte Isola, in Lake Iseo, net still means “fishing net”, of which this

small island was until a few years ago one of the first world producers. The local

production started suffering from the sharp competition from Japan only since the 1970s.

Nevertheless, on the island a high-quality production still continues, using the same tools

showed by archaeological evidence.

The origins of this artisan craft probably date back to the Roman age. It is known that in

1500-1600s almost the entire population was involved in this activity, even if most

production was assured by the women. Each household was practically a workshop,

employing all the members. Nets hung at every angle: the small town Peschiera Naraglio

was substantially covered with them and weaving the biggest items required the whole

main square.

Even though lots of these workshops have now evolved into small but active factories, and

nylon has replaced cotton, linen, and hemp, still today you can see someone patiently

mending nets by using a ocia, the special traditional needle, as they once used to do.

Although spontaneity being thecharacteristic of common people’ssettlements, since the Roman age theLombard lakes used to attract “aris-tocrats” of taste and culture, cele-brating their gorgeousness. The ves-tiges of the Roman villa in Sirmioneand the poems written by Catullusand Virgil witness the fascinationthat those lakes held even since then.

The innate beauty of these placeshas always emphasised that generat-

ed by man. The neat geometry ofAngera’s Castle raises on the summitof a green promontory; Caterina delSasso’s Monastery is suspended be-tween water and sky, in the lonelyand dizzy cliff on which it stands;San Fedelino’s small Romanesquechurch, almost skimming over LakeMezzola’s surface, combines its ownsacredness with the large and mys-terious sacredness attached to thesurrounding nature.

Handcraft

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Lombardia

The lake is a micro-cosmos. Assuch, it contains, on a reducedscale, all the elements identifyingsocial spaces. Sacred and profane,art and nature, normal time forwork and privileged time for leisureand travel: the scenic shores ofLombard lakes display all of them.Yet, if a specific uniqueness exists, itis to be found in the superb villas inthe vicinity, asserting unquestion-ably the character of these places,addressing to very sophisticatedusers.

The lake-tempered climate deter-mines the ideal atmosphere inwhich these fabulous buildings canexpress their inherent character,that is pleasure, joy of living, lovefor beauty. Similar to superciliousand beautiful women who letthemselves be admired, but do notconcede themselves, these antiquevillas offer their spectacular views tothe submissive respect of the lake.In this narcissistic game the sheet ofwater mirrors the image and dou-bles its fascination.

The Rocca Borromeo, of Angera rests on a limestone spur overlooking the south por-tion of Lake Maggiore. The Rocca has been housing the Doll Museum (in Europe, one ofthe most important permanent expositions in the field) since 1988. Originally set up byprincess Bona Borromeo, the collection contains (in the twelve rooms of the Visconteaand Borromea wings) hundreds of dolls. These are displayed according to didactical andhistoric criteria, intended to reflect the changes in children’s toy preferences from the 18th

century to the 1950s. A time trip to rediscover the innate human disposition to play.

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The villas and the lake look ateach other in the light of a recipro-cal tie. From the lake, one can ap-preciate the villa’s light architectureof loggias, staircases, and arches;from the opposite perspective, thevilla’s balconies offer an exceptionalview of the lake and its gardenedsurroundings. The garden is themissing link between the wild oflake and the culture of villa, as itsambiguous and double identity de-rives from both of them. A varietyof trees and flowers are suitable tothe fine architecture of Italian-stylegarden, harmonious and perfectunity of hedges and steps, creepersand columnades.

The sumptuous Villa Carlotta, erected in the 17th century, is found at Tremezzo, on theancient Regina road. Its south orientation provides the luxuriant Italian-style garden fram-ing the villa with excellent conditions for vegetation growth. The botanical wealth of thevilla is universally well-known: in April-May, during the rhododendron and azalea flow-ering season, visitors come from all over the world. Moreover, the villa hosts many art

items; for example, sculptures by Acquisti and Thorvaldsen, paintings by Hayez,Migliara, and Wicar, fragments of frescoes by Appiani and – above all – some workscreated in Canova’s workshop, whose at least “Amore e Psiche” deserves a mention.

31

Lombardia

The village of Bellagio, one of the most recalled localities around Lake Como, providesthe opportunity to both visit the surrounding 19th century buildings and walk the citystreets and porches, loosing oneself among old workshops and tiny churches. Not farfrom the village, facing Tremezzina bay, stands Villa Melzi, built between 1808 and1810. The villa, marked by Neo-Classic rules of elegance and harmony, is surroundedby an enchanting English-style park, with very old and exotic trees, sweet smellingplants and flowers of all types, together with classic-like and Egyptian statues, movingthe visitors into a realm of fantasy.

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The magnificence of lake land-scapes inspired these works of art.Their creation was due to both ar-chitects’ talent and Lombard pur-chasers' refinement and resulted in-to increased appeal and fame of theseplaces. Antique villas exerted a

strong influence on the Italian Deca-dent sensibility. The patina of timedelicately veiling walls, soft reflec-tions on water, opulent gardens:everything seems to arouse deepemotions in aesthetes’ hearts. It wasfor these reasons that Gabriele

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Lombardia

D'Annunzio, the main Italian inter-preter of this sensibility, establishedthe shore of Lake Garda as his resi-dence. Obviously, his intentional ex-aggerations, redundancies, andprovocations are very different fromthe simple elegance of Villa Carlot-

ta, Villa del Balbianello, Villa Melzi,Villa d’Este. Anyway there is a lineconnecting the rigorous neoclassi-cal architecture to the ornamenta-tions of Art Noveau; this line beingthe lake itself, able to give promi-nence to art and to merge with it.

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lakes

Traveller’s Notes

Lombardia