KOREA magazine [March 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 3]

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KOREANCUISINEMAKES WAVES

MARCH 2010 www.korea.netPEOPLE & CULTURE


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PRELUDE

Koreas Stoic Beauty Ancient Sanseongin Chungcheongbuk-do Province, the centralregion of Korea, are representative of fortressesdating back to ancient times and the middle ages.Ondalsanseong Mountain Fortress in Danyang isa site that bears the marks of the southwardadvance of the Goguryeo Kingdom and the north-ward expansion of the Silla Kingdom. This fortress,along with six others in the province, was includedon UNESCOs Tentative List of World Heritagesites in January 2010. The Tenative List includessites under consideration for nomination asofficial World Heritage sites.


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CONTENTSMARCH 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 3

PUBLISHERKim He-beom,Korean Culture and Information Service

EDITINGHEM KOREA Co., Ltd

[email protected]

PRINTINGSamsung Moonwha Printing Co.

Allrightsreserved.Nopartof thispublicationmaybereproducedinanyformwithoutpermissionfromKOREAandthe KoreanCulture andInformationService.

Thearticles publishedin KOREAdonot necessarilyrepresenttheviewsofthe publisher.Thepublisherisnotliableforerrorsoromissions.

Lettersto theeditorshouldincludethewritersfullnameandaddress.Lettersmay beeditedforclarityand/orspace restrictions.

Ifyouwantto receivea freecopyof KOREAorwisto cancela subscription,pleasee-mail us.AdownloadablePDF fileof KOREAanda mapandglossarywith commonKoreanwords appearinginourtextareavailableby clickingonthe thumbnailof KOREAonthe homepageof www.korea.net.

COVER STORY 04Discovering a nations cuisine meansmore than just eating the food. As Koreandishes gain an acclaim, truly appreciatingthis unique fare requires a closer look.

TRAVEL 26Hanok , or Korean traditional houses, werepopular until the 1970s. But behind aninnocuous facade lies a rich history andphilosophy that continues to persevere inthe modern world.

MY KOREA 32Is Korea heaven on Earth for shopa-holics? The shopping season in Westerncountries doesnt begin till the winter holi-days, but here in Korea, you can find mid-night shopping year-round.

SUMMIT DIPLOMACY 36The G-20 Summit will descend on Seoul inNovember this year. Korean President LeeMyung-bak consulted with other worldleaders at the World Economic Forumabout the upcoming economic agenda.

GLOBAL KOREA 40Korea is becoming more involved withoverseas relief aid. From the governmentto civil groups, the nation is increasing itsefforts to help less fortunate countries.

NOW IN KOREAThe hottest phrase in Korea nowadays isundeniably girl group. But girl groupfever is more than just a trend: its sym-bolic of a cultural era that is embracingthe expulsion of authoritarian ideology.

PEN & BRUSH 16Its been 46 years since poet Kim Cho-hyefirst made her debut. Her prolific body of work is best described by the concepts of stillness, moderation and contemplation.

PEOPLE 20Korean chaehwa , or handmade silk flow-ers, encapsulate the essence of the purebeauty that communicates with nature.Hwang Su-ro has spent half a century ded-icated to this art.

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Around the world,Korean food is nolonger seen as just a hot and spicy dishesfrom an East Asian country.After discovering arange of healthy and delicious dishes in Koreanrestaurants the world over, people have come to realize thediversity of Korean fare. While some ingredients andpreparation techniques are similar to those found else-where,Korean cuisine truly embodies the nations cultureFurthermore,the many fermented dishes that are part of meals have recently gained prominence as part of theslow foodmovement, leaving little doubt that Koreanflavors are making waves overseas. by Seo Dong-cheol

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The Korean government has deemed the years from 2010 to 2012 as a VisitKorea period. What are the must-eat d ishes to sample at the numerous eventstaking place during this period in the country? It can be daunting to see just howmany menus can hold, so a recommendation or two from those in the know canreally help. A survey by a Korean newspaper last year found that foreign residentsin Korea enjoyed bulgogi (barbecued beef) best, followed by galbi (grilled shortribs), and bibimbap (rice mixed with meat and vegetables).

Recently, Koreas Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism (MCST) and theMinistry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MIFAFF) conducted a surveyof peoples favorite dishes at Korean restaurants overseas, and the following, inorder, were the top 10: kimchi (and kimchi-jjigae), bibimbap, hanjeongsik (a tradi-tional, full-course Korean meal), galbi, bulgogi, samgyeopsal (sliced pork belly),samgyetang (ginseng and chicken soup), naengmyeon (chilled buckwheat noodles),haemul-pajeon (seafood and green onion pancakes) and tteok (rice cakes). Thiswould suggest, then, that its high time people put aside their fear of unknowndishes and embraced new flavors.

Interestingly enough, those top 10 Korean dishes are not solely confined to

Korean restaurants anymore, as their tastes make them popular with palates on allcontinents. Sick of eating processed food and quick bites in between meals, peo-ple all over the world are turning their attention to slow food (as opposed to fastfood). Thats where kimchi and other fermented foods come in, as well as Koreanbarbecue, pizzas and chicken soups, all of which are becoming recognized globally.As Korean foods take up more space on peoples tables, and people give them acloser look, the subtleties of the dishes will inevitably be revealed.

SLOW AND STEADYVisit a Koreans home and youre sure to come across a homeappliance unique to this part of the world: the kimchi fridge. Koreans have a regularrefrigerator to keep their food cool and another one to store their kimchi.Traditionally, Koreans made kimchi in the autumn and buried it underground to letit ferment. These days, however, the majority of Koreans live in apartment build-ings and do not have a yard in which to bury their kimchi. Thus, the birth of the kim-chi refrigerator, which recreates conditions similar to those underground, maintain-ing an average temperature of 1C.

Kimchi is easily the most famous of fermented Korean food. Though cabbage is

Soy sauce, gochujang and soybean paste aremade from bricks of ground fermented soy-beans (above). Salted shrimp and fish arematured in Korean traditional pots (below).

Kimchi is one of the principle fermenteddishes of Korean food (above). Jangajji, fer-mented in soy sauce or gochujang, are alsokinds of slow food (below).

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the most well known variety, kimchi made with radishes or cucumbers are alsopopular, all of which use the formula of mixing salt, red pepper flakes, crushed gar-lic, green onions, ginger, soy sauce and fermented fish together. Fermented kimchiis healthy and nutritious, as it co ntains a wide range of vitamins.

Other Korean fermented foods such as soybean paste, gochujang (red pepperpaste) and soy sauce have been thrust into the spotlight as the perfect slow foods.The history of the term dates back to 1986, when the international slow foodmovement got its start in Italy. The message of the movement was to promote areturn to a traditional diet. Fed up with fast and instant foods, people who used tobe obsessed with speed and convenience are now returning to more natural ingre-dients that agree with the human body. The slow food movement has led to adecline in American fast food, which in turn has given way to emerging slow foodfrom Asia, says Jeong Hye-gyeong, a p rofessor at Hoseo University. New trendshave seen healthier food finding its way onto the tables of people around theworld. In the near future, healthy, eco-friendly foods will be the norm.

There is no doubt that fermented foods have been a part of diets in both theEast and West for millennia. Long ago, Western cultures developed wines, beers,

Samgyetang is one of popular healthy foodin Korea, especially in summer (opposite).

Tteok is made of rice, nuts, herbs and evensome fruits that make it highly nuturitious(above). Naengmyeon is also a popular dishfor its refreshing cool broth (below).

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cheeses and yogurts as their own healthy fermented food products. But when itcomes to things that are slow and patient, nothing quite matches the variety of Korean cuisine. Theres nothing out there like Korean food, insists Jeong. Wehave slow food like no one else. Korean soy sauces and soybean pastes are usual-ly preserved at least one year before theyre consumed, with some aged as long as60 years. There arent a lot of people who can wait that long. Koreans, however,embody slow food.

These slow fermented ingredients are a fundamental part of the national cui-sine not merely an afterthought. Most meals and side dishes include a ferment-ed ingredient. Among stews, kimchi-jjigae (kimchi stew) and doenjang- jjigae (fer-mented soybean paste stew) are popular. When people make guk , a basic Koreansoup, with kimchi or soybean paste, salt and soy sauce are added to season it aswell. Then theres bibimbap, which would not be complete without gochujang.Essentially, if you sit down to have a traditional Korean meal, it would be nearlyimpossible to avoid all the fermented foods present on the table. Korean food is,fundamentally, a hodgepodge of slow foods.

UNIVERSAL TRAITSThe top 10 Korean foods which non-natives like most havemore in common than just fermentation. The ingredients that go into the dishesand how theyre made are fairly universal, as its common to find barbecue, pizzas,soups and noodles in dishes from other countries. Beef and pork are universalingredients, save those nations which refrain from incorporating them in their cui-sine for religious reasons. Barbecued foods and steak are popular around the

world, so bulgogi, galbi, and samgyeopsalhave become popular with people inother countries. People over-seas enjoy Korean meat dish-es not just for their familiaringredients, but for theoriginal recipes used toprepare the food.

As Professor Jeongexplains, Western meatdishes are simple, servedrare, medium or well-done.Thats it. However, Korean meatdishes agree with foreignpalates because of the manyunique ways in which theyre del-icately prepared.

Bulgogi is made by taking thinslices of sirloin or other cuts of beef and marinating it in a mixture of soysauce, sugar, green onions, garlic,

Some meat dishes are cooked directly on atabletop grill just before eating (above).Galbijjim is a steamed beef dish marinated

with soy sauce and seasonings (below).

Bibimbap is a combination of rice, vegeta-bles, meat and gochujang. It is also one of the well-known Korean food overseas.

toasted sesame seeds, ginger, pepper and sesame oil. It is then fried in a panbefore serving. Galbi, or sliced short ribs, is marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil,garlic, green onions and pear. However, its different from bulgogi in that itsgrilled over a charcoal fire or braised. Additionally, the seasoning goes deep intothe meats tissue, suffusing it with the uniquely original smells and flavors of Korean cuisine. And dont forget about the grilled fatback of samgyeopsal, whichreminds many of unsmoked bacon and is also cooked in its own way. Koreans grillthe slices of pork belly on a tabletop grill before wrapping it with an assortment of vegetables.

Samgyetang is a traditional Korean meal eaten by many to beat the heat of sum-mer. Similar to the broth of chicken noodle soup, samgyetangs health benefits areunparalleled. After removing its innards, the chicken is stuffed with glutinous rice,garlic, and jujubes and then boiled for hours. Ginseng, that mysterious root whosepositive effects on the human body are still being uncovered to this day, is alsoadded, making samgyetang as much a tonic as a delicious meal. Haemul-pajeon,which resembles a pizza or pancake in appearance, is made by adding oysters,squid and clams to a mixture of chopped green onions, hot peppers and flourdough. It is then fried on a pan and eaten while still hot.

Korean traditional rice cakes, tteok, are made by steaming pounded or glutinousrice. Seasoning it with nuts, fruits and herbs makes it highly nutritious. Then thereare all the different noodles, which come in a whole slew of shapes and sizes: thepasta of Italy, the rice noodles of Vietnam, the udon of Japan and the chow mein of China. Of the many kinds of Korean noodles, naengmyeon, buckwheat noodles sea-

soned with sliced cucumbers, radishes and pears, and topped with a boiled egg ina chilled broth of beef or chicken, is one of the most popular.

SEEDS OF GLOBALIZATIONA recent survey found that 60 percent of foreign resi-dents in Korea believe Korean food has the potential to go global. One Japanesehousewife loves kimchi so much she not only has a kimchi fridge but makes herown kimchi! Perhaps the globalization of Korean food has already begun. TheKorean government aims at accelerating the further globalization of the nationalcuisine. Indeed, the governments bold new goal is to make the domestic fare oneof the worlds five most favorite foods within a decade, and increase the number of Korean restaurants around the world from its present number, 10,000, to 40,000.

In May 2009, the government formed a Korean Cuisine to the World group,and a Korean Cuisine Foundation is in the works as well. Related government agen-cies including the Ministry of Culture, Spo rts and Tourism have vowed to cooperatewith civic groups to nurture the brand of Korean food.

Behind this sweeping culinary movement lie the universal traits of the cuisineand its potential to become globally recognized. It is only a matter of time beforethe seeds of Korean food grow into a strong, global tree. With an open mind to newcultures and an interest in following a healthy diet, people are being encouraged to

join this movement to make this unique food more popular and accessible in everycorner of the world.

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COVER STORY

A CORNUCOPIA OF TASIN LOCAL SPECIALTI

SUWON GALBI (GYEONGGI-DO PROVINCE)Suwons marinated galbi short ribs are a local specialty that

can be enjoyed anywhere in the world. As Gyeonggi-do Provincesmost famous dish, this rich, meaty meal has a universal appeal,almost like barbecue. Suwon galbi is said to have originated at arestaurant called Hwachunok, which opened in Suwon in the1940s. The galbi served there, marinated in sesame oil, garlic,scallions and Asian pear, then charcoal-broiled over a low flame,quickly gained popularity due in part, perhaps, to the fact that atthe time Suwon was home to the largest cattle market in thecountry. Its served with an assortment of different vegetables.Recommended Restaurant Bonsuwon Galbi

Address 51-20 Uman-dong, Paldal-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-doFor more information call +82-(0)31-211-8434 or visit www.bonsuwon.co.kr

Gyeonggi-do Travel Information www.ethankyou.co.kr

CHEONAN BYEONGCHEON SUNDAE(CHUNGCHEONGNAM-DO PROVINCE)

The origins of Byeongcheon sundae date back to the yearsafter the Korean War (1950-53) when a Western ham facto-ry was established in the township of Byeongcheon. It wasthere that people started making sundae, a type of bloodsausage, with the residual pork which had been processedto produce ham. They also began selling pork bone soupwith sundae at outdoor markets.Recommended Restaurant Cheonghwa Jip

Address 167-6 Byeongcheon-ri, Byeongcheon-myeon, Dongnam-gu,Cheonan-si, Chungcheongnam-doFor more information +82-(0)41-564-1558Chungcheongnam-do Travel Information tour.chungnam.net

Gyeonggi-do Province features incrediblysumptuous food that is presented beautifully.Host to Koreas royal family and nobility forcenturies, the regions cuisine has long beeninfluenced by food from the royal court, whichexplains its traces of extravagance. Gangwon-do Province is the most mountainous region inthe nation. Its distinguishing geographic fea-tures include the Taebaek Mountains and theEast Sea. Fresh seafood and produce such as

potato, corn and buckwheat are staples formany of its unique dishes. Food from theChungcheong-do Province is clean and simple,with people there using fewer spices than inother regions. The only landlocked, northernportion of the region has an abundance of gin-seng, garlic and jujubes. The southern part,which is closer to the water, carries plenty of seafood, including blue crabs and shrimp. TheJeolla-do Province, which makes use of thelarge amount of fertile land within its bordersand the southwestern coast, has myriad localcrops and seafood to create a range of dish-es. While the Gyeongsang-do Province is alsoblessed with both fertile land and a richcoastal region, its cuisine is relatively simple,with many of its dishes being saltier and spici-er than those from other areas. Finally, JejuIsland, the outcrop located off the southern tipof the Korean peninsula, is a seafood loversparadise.

JEONJU BIBIMBAP (JEOLLABUK-DO PROVINCE)There are numerous theories as to how bibimbap , a bowl of

warm white rice topped with an egg yolk, seasoned beef, and avariety of vegetables, was first made. Some say it was a lightmeal served in the royal court, later introduced to the public.Another theory says farmers combined rice with certain sidedishes in a bowl because they had no time to sit down and eatduring the busy harvest season. Although no one is certain of bibimbaps origin, theres no doubt it combines a variety of tastyingredients together in one bowl to make a nutritious meal.Recommended Restaurant Gajok Hoegwan

Address 80, Jungang-dong 3(sam)-ga, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeollabuk-doFor more information +82-(0)63-284-0982 or www.jeonjubibimbap.com

Jeollabuk-do Travel Information www.jeonbuk.go.kr

GANGNEUNG CHODANGSUNDUBU

(GANGWON-DO PROVINCE)Made from local soybeans and waterfrom the East Sea, Gangneungchodang sundubu is a silken tofusoup with the savory taste of soy-beans. They say the first person toever make tofu was Heo Yeop, a gov-ernment official and scholar duringthe Joseon era. He made his tofu bycoagulating soymilk with cleanseawater. Unlike conventional tofu,chodang sundubu is more watery,because its not curdled, with aclean, mellow aftertaste. Tofu is high

in protein but low in cholesterol andsaturated fat, making it a much-lovedcommodity by people around theworld for its health benefits.Recommended Restaurant Yetnal Chodang Sundubu

Address 334-2 Unjeong-dong, Gangneung-si, Gangwon-doFor more information +82-(0)33-645-0557or www.oldchodangdubu.co.kr Gangwon-do Travel Information www.gang won.to

OBUNJAGI TTUKBAEGI (JEJU ISLAND)Obunjagi ttukbaegi is a soup consisting of obunja-

gi (a shellfish related to abalone) and served in anearthenware pot with mushrooms, tofu, garlic, onionsand hot peppers. The dish is a local specialty of JejuIsland, Koreas largest and a popular tourist destina-tion. With about 70 percent of all obunjagi harvestedoff Jeju, it boasts an addictive chewy taste that is highin protein but low in fat, with a clean, refreshing flavor.Recommended Restaurant Sambo Restaurant

Address 319-8 Cheonji-dong, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-doFor more information +82-(0)64-762-3620

Jeju-do Travel Information www.jeju.go.kr

YEONGDEOK SNOW CRAB(GYEONGSANGBUK-DO PROVINCE)

If youre a fan of king crab and lobster, youll love the snowcrab from Yeongdeok. This delicacy is also called bamboo crabbecause its leg joints resemble the plant. The best snow crabsare caught in the clear waters of the East Sea nearYeongdeok, as they have longer legs and chewier meat. It is

high in protein, low in calories and rich in minerals, includingcalcium. Winter and early spring are the best times of year forsnow crab, usually steamed or boiled in soups.Recommended Restaurant Sanho Snow Crab Town

Address 305 Ganggu-ri, Yeongdeok-gun,Gyeongsangbuk-doFor more information +82-(0)54-733-4023 or www.sanhocrab.comGyeongsangbuk-do Travel Information www.gbtour.net

Geographically speaking, Korea is a small country.Buthat doesnt mean it lacks great, diverse food and fla-

vors. Get ready for a journey around this small butculturally rich nation in search of local food that bestrepresents each region. by Seo Dong-cheol | illustration by Yu Yeo

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MAKGEOLLI: A TRADITIONAL DRINK THAT TICKLES MODERN TASTEBUDS

Makgeolli is a traditional alcoholic beverage in Korea, muchlike wine in France or sake in Japan. It is made by fermenting amixture of boiled rice and water with yeast.

There are several reasons makgeolli has become more pop-ular in Korea than other types of rice wine. For one, it has beenloved across the country since the Goryeo Dynasty that beganin the 10 th century. In its unfiltered form and served with itsnatural sediment after being stirred, it was n ot just an alco-holic beverage but a filling refreshment. Originally popular withfarmers, it earned the nickname nongju , or farmers liquor.

A popular drink for years, makgeolli eventually fell out of favor with people during the Japanese colonial era (1910-

1945). Because of food shortages, there was not enough riceto eat, let alone enough to produce alcohol. As a result, thegovernment restricted the making of rice wine and the onceubiquitous makgeolli seemed to fade into history. But as riceproduction increased, people started to miss the traditionaldrink, and it began its return to the spotlight.

Today, in a world where health and well-being are at the fore-front of many peoples minds, makgeolli is the perfect fit.Usually around 6.5 percent alcohol by volume, its lighter inalcohol content than other alcoholic beverages like soju (alocal grog) and wine. The sediment, which gives it a milky, off-white color, is rich in nutrients such as lactobacilli, protein,amino acids and vitamins. Interestingly, makgeollis popularityextends beyond the borders of Korea. In Japan, large depart-ment stores like Takashimaya sell makgeolli and idong makge-olli, makgeolli cocktails, as well as other fusion varieties.

THE BEST WAYS TO DRINK MAKGEOLLIWilliam LawtonCromwell, an American from Connecticut who has been living inSeoul for a year and half, loves makgeolli. I like it because

its lighter than other drinks [tequila, rum or whiskey], andgoes down easy, he says. It smells fresh and its fruity tastemakes it feel like Im drinking a fruit wine.

Along with its popularity, side dishes that are well-matchedwith the drink are turning h eads, too. For time immemorial acountless number of dishes have competed with each other,vying for the title of the best side dish complement to makgeol-li. Today, the most popular and affordable is probably

pajeon , especially Dongnae-pajeon , a Korean pancake fromBusan that is made of dough with spring onions, seafood andeggs. With its melange of balanced ingredients, it boasts aflavor that goes well with the rice wine.

Another good accompaniment is a specialty of the Jeolla-doProvince called hongeo-samhap , a three-layered dish consistingof cooled fermented thornback ray (or skate), steamed porkand well fermented kimchi. The thornback has a unique burn-ing taste from ammonia, though it beco mes milder when eatenwith pork and kimchi. In addition, sashimi chomuchim , madewith fresh fish, spiced with vinegar and hot pepper bean paste,is paired with the beverage. Kim Ok-sim, the owner of a barnamed Gounnim in Seoul says it is the be st side dish, claimingIts sweet and sour taste goes well with makgeolli.

The makgeolli craze is sure to be around for a while. Eventhe Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheriesannounced last year it would give full support by subsidizingcompanies that make makgeolli with freshly harvested rice.The popular drink was even served during a Korea Nightevent at the Davos World Economic Forum in Switzerland.Koreans have long appreciated makgeolli for its taste andhealth benefits. Will it, however, be able to gain popularityoverseas? It will certainly be interesting to see how makgeollifares globally in 2010.

The world of alcohol is governed by trends. These days,the most popular drink in Korea is definitely makgeolli, atraditional Korean rice wine. Last year, in fact, 889patents related to makgeolli were applied for, a 32 per-cent increase from 2008. Each region of Korea has count-less varieties, which has led to the rise in use of terms

such as makgeolli bar and makgeolli nouveau. Letstake a closer look at the appeal of the alcoholic beveragethats changing Koreas drinking culture.by Oh Kyong-yon| photographs by Kim Nam-heon

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For William Lawton Cromwell, left, who enjoys a few drinks with friends after work, makgeolli is no longer a foreign drink

for him (opposite). There are more than a hundread kinds of makgeolli in Korea (below). Makgeolli matches with many

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PEN & BRUSH

It has now been 46 years since Kim made her debut as a poet.Since her first pieces were published in Hyundae Munhakmagazine in 1964,she has steadily, unceasingly brought outsuch works as A Drifting Star,Saranggut 1(and subse-quent volumes 2 and 3),Mother,and Island. Saranggutwas even reprinted in middle school Korean language text-books,while Motherwas introduced to European readersthrough translated French texts,which brought her globalacclaim as the poet who expressively captured Korean senti-

ment and culture.Kim is the recipient of many renowned literary awards,including the Society of Korean Poets Award and the KoreanLiterary Award,which is presented annually by the KoreanWritersAssociation to remarkable domestic literary works.

ANGUISH ANDJOY FOR LifeSometimes her poems have a generous, maternal love full of aspring-like vitality, while at other times they are akin to a field of

reeds, smeared in the bleak loneliness of late fall.The work of KimCho-hye,who has lived her entire life as a poet, are just like herexperiences: pure and straight as an arrow bent only by the wind,always asking an endless series of questions for self-reflection.by Oh Kyong-yon

The prolific writer has also written two essays,To Find aBeam of Light in Lifeand Hurting Together,Loving inCompany,both published in the early 1990s. However, Kimis truly a poet at heart and embeds her affection for themedium even in prose.

In one of her collections,the writer declares that poets gothrough pain instinctively they ignite themselves and igniothers as well. Love, whether it contains a universal characteror a special one, has been an important element in life for

me.In the end, she expresses her unmatched affinity forpoems, concluding,That is prosody.What more can youwant besides poems?

Last year,she chose 100 works from her 10 poetry collec-tions, and bound them into a special collection of selectedKim Cho-hye


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poems. The book was printed on hanji (traditional Koreanpaper), while the whole process of typesetting, printing andbookbinding were completed manually. A limited edition of 1,000 copies were printed,creating a r are and meaningfulmasterpiece.Selecting pieces from her countless works,span-ning more than 40 years, proved to be quite the challenge.Yet,publishing the selected book of poetry was an unavoidabletask, Kim says,The most important criteria for selectionwere that the poems were ones that had to be easily under-stood by readers, and that they contained the inspiration of the writer in a natural way.

THE VALUE OF WORDSPoems are the most valuable thingsin my life, something that I have dedicated all my efforts to,Kim says when asked what meaning poetry holds for her.Though the woman is now a veteran,she says she has lived allher life pondering about the definition ofa well-writtenpoem. Writing has caused her internal conflict and deviation,but Kim stresses that she never questioned or became dis-heartened about becoming a poet.She instead chose to disci-pline herself to stand strong and says she will always continuewith her efforts.Of course,the creative process itselfis very painful and difficult. But whenever I receive a collection of my poems in my hands after I endure that process, I experi-ence an inexpressible joy.That is probably the biggest happi-ness for poets.

Saranggut,composed of 183 poems,is a large series of

poems compiled into three volumes.Kim says she chose thetitle by combining the Korean word for love (sarang) withthe Korean shamanic ritual called gut. Love, she says,is auniversal theme and the most fundamental power,while gutis a form of Korean shamanism and traditional seasonal cus-tom. The practice,which has its roots in ancient Korean his-tory,holds rituals for auspicious events or ill omens depend-ing on the shamanistic religion. It is an element of Koreanculture that symbolizes all acts of conflict in the Koreanlifestyle.When in love, people are in the most pure,passion-ate and intense state; when a shaman holds a service and ispossessed by spirits,it is a moment of the purest passion andintensity.Inspired by these paralleling ideas,Kim combinedthe two words for her collection.

Critics say her works are mere symbols of style ideas,

such as moderati,blankness,and contemplation.To this,Kim says,It is the instinct of poets to express many thingswith just a few words. She adds that Some say that literatureis a product of symbols and omissions but the symbols andomissions in poems must be effectively expressed,which

describes the goals ofher world of poetry. The authorexplains that,in poetry, in which the conciseness of languageis beauty,you must expand blank space to the fullest and dis-seminate the echoes of language into that void.

In Korean,there is a proverb that says Every finger hurtswhen you bite all 10which refers to the fact that,regardlessof the number of their children, each and every child isimportant to all parents.To poets,every poem is as valuableas a child, but often inquisitive readers ask Kim to divulgewhat her favorite work is.Though under the premise that allworks are important to her,she chose Motheras the workthat she especially treasures.My mother provided me withthe foundation to concentrate on literature,and taught methe meaning of sacrifice and love.Though it has now beenover 40 years since she passed away, my mother still vividly remains in my soul,i n my works.

POEMS: A SECOND NATUREWhen asked abstractly about theexistential value ofpoets in real life, Kim says that writing is apainful but joyful task.She continues,Poets must be

prophets (who have a keen insight into life),and pioneers of history (who write with great responsibility).A true portraitof a poet is one who has both the virtues of a prophet and apioneer.Writing poems must spring from a sense of respon-sibility, she says for oneself,for humanity. The object ofpoetry is not to decorate the poets personal sentiments, it isan expression of true responsibility for life.

For her,Kim defines poetry as a second nature, meaningthat, just as water and wind must flow, her poems must alsobe completed in an unmanufactured,natural way.And, as apoet, she hopes that every persons soul can be seeped withpoetry.

She confesses:when she sees her poem on the wall of acountry-side cafe, or when she meets someone by chancewho is able to recite her poems,she is energized as if budsare sprouting from my body. But not for a sense of egotism,its more that meeting her readers is like sharing souls beyondtime and space.To Kim, its not about living inwardly,alone.Through my works,I hope to continually share the varioussentiments that I have experienced in my life.

MOTHER (MRE)> Language French> Publisher LHarmattan (Paris, France)> Published year 1995

One body, / but separated / into different bodies.Give painfully, gain lacking / did not know we would be sepa-rated.

Only having experienced bitter things / Mother cannot feelbitterness any more. / Only familiar with sweet things, / thechild does not recognize sweetness.

To the beginning / return to one body,switch roles, / be born again.

Mother, a representative piece by Kimalong with Saranggut, is a master-piece in which the poets personal feel-ings are embedded. The poem speakssoftly of a longing for her mother andregrets being undutiful as a daughter.To me, my mother was like a God, anabsolute existence in all aspects of mylife, Kim says. She cried so much whilewriting this piece that she suffered fromexhaustion after completion.

SARANGGUT (CENT PTALES

DAMOUR)> Language French> Publisher LHarmattan (Paris, France)> Published year 1998

I know you do not come to me, / not because you donot wish to meet, / but because you fear/ leaving.

Though you know / my tears are for you, you pretend not to know and hide;I know it is because of the flame / that you cannot throw away / or win. / Being near / causes pain,but sending you away / is a bigger pain.

I know how to love, / living, missing you.Even when two hearts scrape against each other.

They know how to weave together love,a love they do not take, because it is what they want.

The piece Saranggut 1 was published in the bookof the same title in 1985. Kim declares that All theproblems that arise among human beings, be theybetween friends, relationships with the opposite sex,or parent-child relationships, there is nothing thatcannot be solved with love.

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The Korean art of chaehwa, or handmade silk flowers, is the essence of pure beauty communicating with nature.Artisan Hwang Su-ro has spent a

half century walking down this road of flowers with fierce determination.Through perseverance she has single-handedly tried to restore the flowerculture of the Joseon court,thus making it possible for others to experi-ence the virtues and natural colors of chaehwa. Her life represents theearnest power of this traditional craft, setting it apart from modern-day flower arranging. by Kim Yeon-jeong | photographs by Kim Nam-heon

A TIMELESSARTIN FULLBLOOM


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A butterfly lands on a flower made of silk. A bee smells a sweetscentand descends ontopetals madeof honey wax.Its strangehow these creatures interact with these innocuous creations,because they are not real. Instead, they are Korean chaehwa ,or flowers formed with naturally-dyed silks and waxes. As thetale of these insects suggests, the materials used to createchaehwa are so well crafted that they mimic nature. Chaehwawas a major decorating element for royal and national eventsduring the Joseon era. During banquets, particularly elaboratechaehwa would be made to adorn the sides of the throne. It issaid that scarlet red peach blossoms were placed on the left,and white red peach blossoms on the right.

Although there are no photographs in which to see how theoriginal handmade flowers looked, there are a couple of UNESCO designated books that contain detailed texts anddrawings of the works of art. Uigwe: The Royal Protocols of the

Joseon Dynasty and The Annals of the Choson Dynasty providealmost complete descriptions of chaehwa, enabling artisanstoday to recreate flowers in the traditional style. Once, thismagnificent court flower culture was on the verge of extinction,but thanks to the efforts of Hwang Su-ro, it has survived andcontinues to be taught today. Through her efforts, she hasestablished the Institute of Korean Royal Silk Flowers, whereshe and more than 10 students research the court chaehwaculture and make efforts to bring about the arts restoration.

MAGIC OF COLORChaehwa captures the essence of the natu-ral light of flowers. In order to recreate the original colors of nature, only the finest silks can be used. The most difficultstep in creating chaehwa is the dyeing process, as it requiresall organic ingredients such as flow ers, trees, grass and bugs.The restoration process also depends solely on historical litera-ture, so it is not easy to guess the colors from simple blackand white pictures. Hwang says she adds her own imaginationas an artist to whats written in the books, in order to recreatethe right colors. Using only surrounding resources, the silk isdyed scarlet, blue, black-green, gold and more.

The next step is to delicately mold each petal, stigma andstamen. I have heard there are those who make flowers inFrance, Hwang says. However, their flowers are not made byhuman hands, but mass-produced with machines. Only flowersmade by hand can create such deep colors. Flowers producedin factories only emit light outwards, lacking depth. The

process is intricate and strict. From beginning to end, themakers touch can be found almost everywhere. As such, thecharm of chaehwa is in adding the touch of human hands tothe grace of nature. The artisan says this is how each flowercomes to have a distinctive look and expression to it: each cre-

A student paints yellow pollen onto a bundle of fibers (top). Hwang Su-ro and her assistant dye silk with the ink from flowers (above).Hwangs work describing the trees and birds (opposite).


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ation has been given a separate, new life.Hwangs art is not limited to silk flowers, but also uses wax

to create beautiful arrangements. The wax is made by first boil-ing beehive remains and cooling them in cold water. Korea hasa prime environment for wax co llecting, with its thick forests,high mountains and distinct seasons. Before, fine wax was col-lected from early spring (when wild flowers bloom) until autumn(when petals fall), and the harvesting of high quality wax led tothe development of crafts using it. It is said that during theGoryeo era, wax in Korea was a major export to China, alongwith Goryeo celadon, as it was popular with the Chinese.

Floral artwork was the earliest form of wax crafts. A cherry

blossom made from wax could be so similar to the real thingthat bees and butterflies alike sought out the creations. Theclean scent and color of the wax flowers was also consideredmore rare than the natural ones, raising the craft into highregard with the noble classes and members of the Joseoncourt. Creating the flowers required a great deal of work; slowhands created blunt petals and heat too high would burn thedelicate material.

A FLORAL LIFEWhen making silk flowers, Hwang says all dis-tractions fade away, leading to an experience Koreans call

hwadosammae (being absorbed in the way of flowers). Hwang,with her determination and ambition, has been a master of herart longer than anybody. Seeing such an elegant woman wear-ing silk hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) makes it difficult toimagine that she endures such grueling p rocesses to createthe works of art. The restoration of a hwajun (decoration byputting flowers in the vase) that once flanked the sides of theJoseon throne took an entire year with the help of more than10 people to complete it. This is because the art comprises aseries of complicated procedures, like choosing the silk, dye-

ing it, cutting it into the shape of a flower, ironing it and addingminute decorations. Hwang says that she is always worriedsomeone will see her hands, as they are often burnt by an ironand always stained from the dyeing procedure.

When I was young I was raised by my mothers family, whowere descendants of Joseon royalty. My grandfather hadalways kept flowers close by, so my sense for them was excep-tional, even as a young girl. More than anything I was influ-enced by the traditional rituals I saw. I learned the royal chae-hwa skills of using natural dyes from my elders, as a matter of course, she says. Later on, during my days in Japan, Iencountered claims that there was no culture of flower decora-

The uniqueness of Hwangs art is in its realism. Flowers, made of silk,perfectly imitate natures own (above). Chaehwa is made of intricately molded floral leaves (opposite).

tions in Korea and it originated from Japan. That was when Ithought this must be my destiny. I think it was then that mysingular path for flowers began.

If not for Hwang, the royal art would not be around today,making it a precious asset for Korea. Chaehwa and its style isimbued from nature, full of charm with its delicate colors,revealing the spiritual world of the Korean people.

To let the world know of Koreas royal floral culture, Hwanghas held a number of exhibitions in places around the world. Inparticular, the special exhibition at the 2005 APEC Summit inBusan was praised by first ladies from around the world. In2007, Hwang surprised the globe with an exhibition of her work

at the UN headquarters. To her, that exhibition was the mostmemorable. People thought I put dirt in the vase to make hwa-

jun in order to fix the flowers. Actually it was rice, not dirt. Bypouring in a large amount of rice, the tension between thegrains prevented the flowers from falling. I asked staff there atthe time to prepare some rice, and I remember I had to gothrough much trouble, she says. Rice was forbidden insidethe building as it is classified as food. Through various inter-esting exhibitions, Hwang has fully promoted the powerful ele-gance of Korean court culture.

Hwangs lifetime of research, study and work have resultedin a book that records her preservation of a tradition. Fromdescribing the detailed history of chaehwa to learning how tocreate the arrangements, Beautiful Chaehwa of Korea is a woof art itself. Like the process of creating flowers, the cover ismade from silk that has been dyed naturally, completed withtraditional Korean book binding methods. Through the book,Hwang expresses her wish that the art form, once dependentonly on the efforts of individuals, will survive as a culturalasset. Her next aspiration is to open a modern flower museumto exhibit the myriad artwork she has worked on over the pasthalf century.

Though she has walked an uncertain path, studying a dyeingcraft without any guidance, Hwangs strength to continue isawe-inspiring to say the least. In the words of AndreiTarkovsky, For that which they call passion is not really theenergy of the soul, but merely friction between the soul and theouter world. Hwangs philosophy is one which endures.People tend to think in terms of black and white when itcomes to the present day and tradition, she says. Howeverthe present and tradition should communicate harmoniously.

That is why the two need to be understood in the same con-text. Though she has pondered all her life how the traditionsof Korea could speak to the contemporary world in understand-ing, she says she has found the way. From the beautiful powerof traditional chaehwa, new flowers will blossom.

TRAVEL


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Youve probably heard the word before: hanok. But these tradi-tional Korean houses,which are often associated with history long past, were the popular form of residence until as late as the1970s. But what made this structure, with its simple design andform, last through the centuries and root itself as an integral partof life here?KOREAtravels to discover the subtle philosophies of the lives and people inside, seeking to root out the truth behindthe belying minimalism. by Ines Min | photographs by Park Jung-ro

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Chunchu Folk Museum is a 154-year-old hanok that lies at theedge of Okcheon, Chungcheongbuk-do Province, a place atodds with the modernity of the times. Though these traditionalhouses are often pictured as immaculate structures with pris-tine gardens gracing the courtyard, Chunchu first sets itself apart by being nothing like youd expect. At first glance, theentrance of the expansive hanok seems cluttered with stonestatues, gravel for the parking lot and various odds and endsresolutely staking its claim in the past. But it is within theseparadoxical elements that the beauty of the family-run guest-house, restaurant and museum lies. Chunchu is nothing lessthan the most courageous amalgamation of old, new, respect-

ful and realistic

and the perfect place to thrust yourself intothe traditions of old Korea and learn some of its deepest cus-toms, away from the accessible city and superficial resorts.

Upon our arrival, owners Jeong Tae-hee and his wife, LeeHwa-soon, welcome us into their home. The couple has man-aged the hanok for the last decade, seeking to preserve a wayof life in order to share their knowledge with passersby. Thoughvisitors may pick and choose which aspects of the hanok toenjoy a homemade meal at a table, a tour of the hanoksartifacts complete with Jeongs narration, or as a relaxing wayto spend a night warmed by the ondol (under-floor heating sys-tem) Chunchu works best as an entire immersion experience.

STRUCTURAL INTEGRITYEntering into a room inside the mainbuilding, the 58-year-old owner explains the significance of ahanoks skeletal structure. It is the most important aspect of

the residence, he says, while looking up toward the supportingwood visible in the ceiling unlike modern homes, the mainbeams and woodwork are not hidden.

Without these timbers, a hanok cannot call itself a truehanok, he says. The crossbeams construct the hou ses cen-tral integrity, and its importance is so fundamental that aKorean idiom has been based on it. Often, a prodigious sonwill be referred to as the crossbeam of a family to signify hisimportance in keeping all the members together.

What makes the rooms different is that whether youreopening or closing the doors, leaving or coming in, the layoutalways feels open, he says, referring to the connectivitybetween rooms. In Korean homes, it is believed there mustbe ample empty space ... space for wind to blow through. Thisis particularly vital during the humid summer season, when acool breeze is the only means of relief from the stifling heat.

Furnishings are typically traditional-style standing wardrobesand low-lying drawers. Complementary with the lifestyle, ondolwas used to warm residences during the cold months. Thoughtoday ondol has survived in modern culture, using heated water

Centuries-old stones decorate every corner of the grounds (top).Red peppers and jujubes are set in the sun to dry (above). A

view of the inner courtyard of the guest rooms (opposite).


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HOW TO GET TO OKCHEON> By car You can get to Okcheon on the GyeongbuExpressway, southbound. Exit Okcheon IC (2 hours).> By bus/train Take a bus from the Dong Seoul BusTerminal to Okcheon, or take a train from Seoul Station toOkcheon Station. For more information visit www.oc.go.krCHUNCHU FOLK MUSEUM> Address Munjeong-ri 6-2, Okcheon-eup, Okcheon-gun,Chungcheongbuk-do Province> Phone +82-(0)10-3174-3307 or +82-(0)43-733-4007(Korean and English)> Rates A basic room for a single night is 60,000 won(US$52.20). Traditional home-cooked meals available withadvance notice, starting from 10,000 won (US$8.70)GETTING AROUNDJEONG JI-YONG MEMORIAL HALL> Address Hakgwe-ri 39, Okcheon-eup, Okcheon-gun,Chungcheongbuk-do Province> Phone +82-(0)43-730-3588 (Korean only)> Hours Tuesday-Sunday from 9am to 6pm, closed on

Mondays and Jan 1, Feb 14, Sep 22 (in 2010)YONGAMSA TEMPLE> Address Samcheong-ri 478, Okcheon-eup, Okcheon-gun,Chungcheongbuk-do Province> Phone +82-(0)43-732-1400 (Korean only)> Hours Open from 6am for sunrises

pipes to warm a room, a series of renovated rooms in Chunchustill direct heat from wood-burning stoves. The hot air is circu-lated underneath the floors, then vented through the openingof a horizontal chimney.

Chunchu has no lack of eye-catching anachronisms thatserve as the museums focal point of historical value. As Jeongleads the way with a slow, steady pace, he stops every sooften to offer a detailed background of a relic or artisans com-position. The stately, quirky man is a lover of storytelling, andthe courtyard, initially nothing more than a hodgepodge to theuntrained eye, is transformed tale by tale into a charming pieceof the puzzle of Koreas history.

OF HOMEGROWN DELIGHTSAs the sun begins to set, itstime to prepare for dinner. Jeong crouches to feed a cracklingfire in an open furnace made of brick and concrete, whichbraces a large pot resting above. The heavy iron piece cancook rice enough for 10 in as little as seven minutes. This isonly one of the many unique experience programs made avail-able to guests at Chunchu that Jeong and Lee have designedto help visitors understand times past.

Activities range from cooking rice in the traditional pot tomaking grain syrup for yeot , traditional candy, to brewing home-made makgeolli , a rice wine. For those who are looking forsomething more active, Jeong will even teach the basics of the

seonbi chum dance, of which he is a master.We dine on a basic meal of rice and delectable side dishes,

each of which have been made on-site, using all local ingredi-ents bought from neighboring markets. The table brims withyear-long fermented kimchi, pickled sesame leaves, soft, freshtofu, a milky-colored oxtail soup with glass noodles and more.The fare seems to be nothing extravagant, but each bite burstswith flavor that would be difficult to replicate elsewhere: bright,tangy and savory.

PERMANENCE IN TIMEHanok dates back to the time of theThree Kingdoms Period of Korean history, yet the lifestyle has

managed to persevere. Though the coming of the conveniencesof Western architecture has thrust the lifestyle in to the back-ground, it still manages to survive through those like Jeong.Life in a hanok may have its disadvantages, but he feels theintrinsic nature of the structure outweighs all negative percep-tions. Its true that manmade concrete lasts a long time, butits not something organic, Jeong says. A hanok is somethingof the earth, built using trees, stones and water, no matter thelocale. A return to nature is the thing your body wills as youage, he explains. And, although we may travel far and wide, ahuman desire to return to our home in nature will always winout, which is what a hanok embodies.

Jeong flashes a characteristic smile. Right?

The grain and patterns of the hanoks original wood can beseen inside the rooms (top). Jeong Tae-hee, the manager of Chunchu Folk Museum, demonstrates how to squeeze makge-olli deposit in order to release its juices (above).

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REDEFINEDIn my corner of small-town Canada, shopaholics and fash-ionistas define shopping as a hobby, a pastime and, in somecases, a lifestyle. Inarguably, no season is more sacred than

the weeks preceding Christmas, during which bargainevent slogans brandish local newspaper headlines. As anotoriously last-minute shopper in college, with a jam-packed class schedule and frugal budget, I recall awaitingthe annual event known as Midnight Madness, a solitary shopping extravaganza that typically lasted from 8pm tomidnight. Equipped with comfortable shoes for rushing,credit cards and shopping lists, my fellow consumers and Iwould line up outside the towns modest one-story shop-ping mall an hour in advance just to get the goods. Sincemy arrival in Seoul in 2002, however,Midnight Madnesshas taken on an entirely different meaning.

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As it happens,on a chilly Wednesday evening I found myself suddenly in needof American two-dollar bills framed in glass, a hammer, some live eels, ShaunCassidy on vinyl and a neon-pink faux-fur shawl.Well, not really in need,buthad those purchases actually been necessary, I knew I would be able to findeach and every one at Seouls oldest market, Namdaemun, named after theiconic south gate ofthe formerly-walled city. Eagerly skipping past the neon-lit tiger honoring the Lunar New Year,I embraced the labyrinth of alleys: fromthe crisp market air to the strong aroma of roasted silkworm larvae accostingmy nostrils.Its been said that shoppers can find everything under the sun atNamdaemun Market except nuclear weapons and tanks, so I was keen onthe prospect of emptying my bank account and testing out the bold claim.Surely there was something that belonged in my clutches.

I armed myself with comfortable walking shoes,as the size of Namdaemunrivals that of my entire suburban hometown.Turning left at the first narrowalley,I began to understand what I was getting myself into.It was an attack on


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the senses: vendors packed themselves closer and closer together,grills sizzled,feet shuffled, and animated speech and laughter grew louder.Although thecrowd was largely Korean,there was a notable modicum of international facesand tongues.Locals swarmed around stalls for late night eats, paired with bot-tles of the domestic beer.Rows of pigs feet,freshly plucked chickens,mam-moth-sized oysters,live seafood, sundae (Korean blood sausage), the fiery butirresistible dumplings known as tteokbokki, and a popular glass noodle dishcalled japchae, are in high demand.I immediately detoured to pick up a din-ner-plate sized kimchijeon, a spicy,pancake-like goodie that can be describedas a kimchi pizza, comfort food for late night winter wandering.

Having recharged my batteries, I paused at a wide intersection to regain my bearings.Around me, in no particular order, is: an optical shop (cheap glasses

in an hour); a ginseng store with glass jars containing specimens ofthe stimu-lating plant that bring to mind the shelves of a mad scientists lab;a souvenirshop featuring child-sized hanbok, traditional Korean clothing,embroideredwith Mashimaro,Pucca and other pop culture characters; and a shop sellingEd Hardy knock-offs.Another 50m and its an assortment of blinking wind-up toys, hats of every style imaginable,a TonyMoly makeup franchise and twoside-by-side shops selling soccer jerseys featuring every player from the UKsDavid Beckham to Frances Zinedine Zidane.

Theres more.Past the bare outskirts of this vast shopping mecca are entirealleyways dedicated to bedding and pillowcases,pots and pans, and stillanother selling mostly fruit and preserved goods i n bulk.

Several tourist information booths in and around Namdaemun Market arehelpful in keeping track of where you are in relation to the subway, but they close at 6pm and,if you want to know what is sold in the popular arcades,youwill have to go in to find out.In my opinion, exploration is the only way oneshould tackle the maze-like Namdaemun.After all, what is madness without alittle mystery? As the evening progresses to the midnight hour, I make my way to the markets of Dongdaemun,which is within walking distance of Hoehyeon Station, a common access point to Namdaemun proper.This iswhere the hardcore shoppers do their greatest damage and the action lastsuntil the sun rises. As a fashion district where traditional markets and tower-ing, modern shopping malls sit side by side, Dongdaemun boasts an estimat-ed 30,000 shops.Due to its vastness,its tough to know where to begin.

I boldly venture into Pyounghwa Market, an enormous, multistory com-plex buzzing with activity.The market operates from 9pm until 6am andfocuses on apparel for middle-aged women.Im greeted by colorful displaysof umbrellas,earrings, scarves,and other items that appeal to the femaledemographic.While digging through a promising array of blouses,Im polite-ly informed that there are no dressing rooms,no refunds, and to make my choices carefully. Although it is a wholesale market,selective shoppers arewelcome,but dont make the mistake of spending too much time mullingover one item, as youre sure to see it throughout the evening.Getting the bestdeal is a trick of the shoppers trade and I recommend testing out a few ven-dors, assuming youre up to the challenge.

Once again in need of fuel, I stop for odeng , and am treated to the fish cakeserved on a bamboo skewer, hot off the grill.While indulging, I meet a fellowlady from my native country in search of merchandise for her local boutique.She is shouldering two gigantic bags containing various Ed Hardy T-shirts,

which she tells me are trendy in Toronto. She will have to make several trips toretrieve her wares, as her stash includes a Korean-style lantern, numerous pil-lows and a curtain set.She showcases her bounty of metallic buttons andbeads for hand-made jewelry,a variety of monogrammed scarves, a dozenfeather-adorned headbands and a handful of mini-photo album cell phonecharms.By now the pedestrian streets are thronging with merchants, hagglersin animated action,and people eating, mingling and resting.Its 2am and thenight is young for the Seoul shopping scene.

Strolling around the lively streets, I am frequently surprised by the sheervolume ofgoods that people are carrying,and the multiculturalism ofthecrowd.Buyers from Japan,China, Russia,the United States and Latin Americacreate a lively,if not chaotic,combination. Its the nature of madness thatcomes off as unexpectedly welcome and appeals to my inner explorer, eager todiscover a new alley in a place Ive long called home.Theres a sense of com-munity in this megaplex of shopping mania, united by the common goals of agood bargain and jovial experience.This i s the shopping mall that neversleeps.In the words of Bo Derek,Whoever said money cant buy happinesssimply didnt know where to go shopping.

They certainly didnt give the streets of Seoul a shot. by Kelly Frances McKenna | photograph by Kim Nam-heon | illustrations by Jo Seung-yeon

PROFILE

During her 7 years inKorea, Canadian KellyFrances McKenna hasworked as a fashionmodel, performanceartist, graphic designerand media coordina-tor. She establishedan NGO that special-izes in saving Koreanmoon bears. She cur-rently co-owns a Website aimed at increas-ing tourism while help-ing fellow Seoulitesmaximize their timehere. When she isntbusy hitting the meanstreets of Seoulsshopping districts,Kelly enjoys animalwelfare work, joggingand good conversationover Korean food.

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THE G-20 SUMMIT IN KOREA: A BRIDGE TO THE WORLD

Leaders of 20 of the worlds leading and emerging economies,known as the Group of 20, will descend on Seoul in November this year.The summit is expected to serve as an opportunity to evaluatethe state of the global economy and the new world order.At theDavos Forum held in January,President Lee Myung-bak once againreminded world leaders of Koreas presence on the world stage.Here, KOREAtakes a look at the significance of the G-20 Summit inSeoul, its preparation and its agenda,while trying to predict inwhich direction global leadership is headed. by Kwon Kyeong-hui

The 40th World Economic Forum inDavos, Switzerland, was an occasionto reaffirm the shifting of global lead-ership of the world order from a Groupof Seven to a Group of 20. KoreanPresident Lee Myung-bak and FrenchPresident Nicolas Sarkozy agreed intheir speeches that pressing globaleconomic issues should be discussedat the G-20 Summit.

By virtue of hosting the conference,

Korea has seen its national profileand prestige rise substantially. In hisaddress on January 27, President Leewon popular support after proposingthe agenda for the November meeting.His plan includes fully implementing

past G-20 agreements: efforts toreduce gaps in international develop-ment and forming a global financialsafety net; offering outreach to non-member developing nations and hold-ing business summits. The 21 st

Century Security Agenda Committeeforum suggested an Empowering G-20, arguing that during the G-20Summit in Seoul, a separate meetingof high-ranking security officials

should be staged. The committee alsosaid the G-20 should take the opportu-nity to become a forum that deals not

just with economic and f inancialissues, but non-traditional securityissues as well.

SHIFTING THE CENTER OF GLOGOVERNANCEThe global head tablehas expanded to 20, as the center of global governance has shifted. Whenthe consensus was formed that the G-7 structure would not be sufficient toovercome the global financial down-turn in 2008, the G-20 was born. Andat the Pittsburgh meeting inSeptember 2009, when Korea wasselected as the next host, the G-20

was also chosen as the premierforum to discuss global economicissues. The crisis made a new gover-nance structure necessary. Amid dis-putes surrounding the change somdeveloped nations preferred the G-8

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financial market could be included.However, considering the establish-

ment of the G-20, there will be tightcompetition for control between thedeveloped and the developing nations,and even among the powerful statesthemselves. From the start, the G-7states were worried that the presenceof new rising powers in the G-20 set-ting would compromise their vestedinterests. Meanwhile, these emergingstates pointed out that the G-7 waslosing its ability to lead and govern theinternational community, and they aredemanding that the membership beexpanded to reflect the increasedclout of the emerging countries.

Changes to the relationshipbetween the US and the EU, whichonce had strong ties, may be anotherreason that the G-20 will have strug-gles before reaching consensus. AsEuropean nations worked toward inte-gration, friction occurred in someareas between the US and Europe.

Against this backdrop, the future of the G-20 will likely see a battle forpower among the United States, theEU and China, as the emerging pow-

ers call for their share of the pie. Theworking dynamics will likely be quitecomplicated.

The possible agenda for future G-20summits could mean even more strug-gles. With regards to sustainablegrowth, the US and China could be atloggerheads over reducing the UStrade deficit. To improve its trade bal-ance, the US wants a revaluation of the Chinese yuan. But China has yetto give a definitive answer. The devel-oped and the developing countriescould also wrangle over reforms at theIMF and World Bank.

Climate change is another toughissue. The 15 th Conference of Partiesto the UN Framework Convention on

Climate Change in Copenhagen endedwith a political declaration instead of an agreement. The participants alsofailed to reach a conclusion on theirreduction targets or the sharing of financial aid. So the goal for Korea to

structure while France led efforts toform a Group of 14 everybody set-tled on the G-20.

Thanks to the shift to a Group of 20, born of the economic crisis, Korea

now stands directly in the middle of the restructuring of global governance.The G-8 countries used to account fornearly 80 percent of global productivi-ty, but now the figure has dropped toaround 50 percent. Problems havearisen that developed nations alonecant solve. The role of Korea as thebridge between the developed andthe developing countries is beginningto be noticed.

At the Pittsburgh Summit, Lee said,It was agreed that unprecedentedcooperation between developednations and new powers will be mosteffective in resolving a wide range of problems related to the economy. Hiswords served as a reminder to the

degree of change global governancehas undergone. A successful hostingof the G-20 Summit is expected tohave virtually the same effect as co-hosting the 2002 FIFA World Cup.

Considering the economic sway of

the G-20 nations, which account for85 percent of the worlds grossdomestic product, the G-20 Summit inSeoul is slated to be the largest inter-national conference ever staged inKorea. Whereas previous internationalmeetings were festivities-oriented, theG-20 Summit this year will have con-crete discussions on overcoming eco-nomic problems.

GLIMPSE INTO THE SEOUL SUMMITReferring to the seating plan at thedinner during the G-20 Summit in

London in April 2009, the Britishnewspaper The Guardian said it wascarefully planned diplomatic artistry.Prime Minister Gordon Brown, thehost, was flanked by IndonesianPresident Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono

and Chinese President Hu Jintao.Sitting across from Brown was SaudiArabian King Abdullah. The overallseating plan reflected internationalrelations and Britains own interests.It was an example showing the risingstatus of the emerging powers andalso the diplomatic skills of the UK.

The G-20 Summit in Korea will bethe largest event the nation has everheld. Aside from the leaders of the G-20 members, representatives fromASEAN and Africa, plus chiefs of theWTO, OECD and IMF, among othermultinational agencies, will be inattendance, bringing the number of world leaders to about 30. More than2,000 officials will accompany theseheads of state and agencies. Countingthe members of the press, attendeeswill number about 20,000. The G-20members include the G-7 states theUS, UK, Germany, France, Japan,Canada and Italy as well as Korea,Russia, China, Brazil, Australia, SouthAfrica, Mexico, Saudi Arabia, India,Argentina, Indonesia, Turkey and thechair nation of the European Union.Up to 130 billion won( US$113 million)

could be necessary to run the summit.Thebudgetfor securityalonewillreachabout27 billionwon (US$23.4 million).

KOREA TO SERVE AS THE BRIDGEPresident Lee Myung-bak and theKorean government will, as the chair,focus on acting as the bridgebetween the developed nations andthe developing ones. As the mediatorbetween these two forces, Korea isknown to have prepared ambitiousplans to lead efforts to overcome theongoing economic crisis and to estab-lish the new economic system after-ward. In that context, the most impor-tant item on the agenda at the SeoulSummit will likely be the new world

economic order that the countriesshould adhere to after the crisis. Inaddition, issues that have been previ-ously discussed such as sustain-able growth, reforming internationalagencies and strengthening the global

act as a bridge at this years G-20Summit is a challenge and a good testof its mediation and coordinationskills. The success of the Summit isdirectly tied to Koreas standing in theinternational community.

Hosting the G-20 Summit means

that Korea is now in a position torestructure the world economic sys-tem, says Shin Je-yoon of theMinistry of Strategy and Finance. If Korea can successfully act as thebridge, then it will help raise our inter-

national profile.Yoon Deok-ryong of the Korea

Institute for International EconomicPolicy says, The year 2010, withKorea as the chair, is the crucial yearfor the G-20 to really become true gov-ernors ... Korea is at the forefront of

the historical change.Lee Dae-ki, a researcher at the

Korea Institute of Finance, adds, Weneed to work through differences onthese sensitive matters and seekways to implement agreements.

In December 2009, members of the Green BicycleVolunteers perform a ceremony wishing for thesuccess of the G-20 Seoul Summit (above). Worldleaders at the London Summit 2009 (opposite top).President Lee Myung-bak, left, delivers a keyspeech at the World Economic Forum in Davos,Switzerland, in January 2010 (opposite below).

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Koreas overseas relief work beganwith NGOs. It was after the civil warbroke out in Rwanda in 1994 thatorganizations that were active over-seas gained recognition from the gen-eral public. Good Neighbors began itsrelief projects with fundraising. Duringsix months of emergency assistance,Good Neighbors dispatched 100 vol-unteers to treat 36,000 people med-ically. The group also supplied foodfor 2,000 orphans per day in Rwanda,and spent two years building schoolsto provide elementary and middleschool education.

NGOs also offered help after theKosovo War in the late 1990s, the1999 earthquake in Turkey, the war inAfghanistan, the 2003 earthquake inIran and the war in Iraq. In particular,the government allocated US$1.5 mil-lion for NGO work in the aftermath of the Iraq War in 2003. Together, theseorganizations had US$8 million

including the money they had raised in order to begin relief work.

Christian NGOs such as Korea Foodfor the Hungry International, GoodNeighbors, Good People and World

Vision, also reached out to help thosedevastated by the massive quake inSichuan Province in China. They visit-ed wrecked villages to supply rice and

drinking water, among other essentialliving supplies. They even built play-grounds for children there.

The private sector has increasinglytaken part in relief aid. After the Haitiearthquake, the general public soonbegan donating to help the country.Internet Web sites opened cyber dona-tion collection boxes and peopleonline have since kept giving.

GOVERNMENT LEADS OVERSERELIEF AIDTo help Haiti, the govern-ment and the private sector providedUS$5 million in emergency relief funds. The government plans to addanother US$5 million for midtermrestoration and rebuilding projects.The National Emergency ManagementAgency led the government emergencyrelief aid squad, including internation-

al aid teams and Korea InternationalCooperation Agency members.Doctors and nurses from the NationalMedical Center and the KoreanFoundation for International Health-care, and emergency aid workers at

KOREA PROVIDES OVERSEASDISASTER RELIEF AID

It has been more than a month since a 7.0-magnitude earthquakedevastated Haiti, a country in the Caribbean. But the people thereare still suffering. Their social system has collapsed and survivorsare not getting proper treatment.Aside from the food shortage,Haitians are exposed to poor hygienic and living conditions. Andcountries all over the world have worked hard to help Haitibounce back from the despair. Korea has actively participated inrelief efforts for Haiti, at the governmental, civic and corporatelevels. Of course,Haiti is not the first country Korea has helped.Since the 1990s, nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) startedproviding overseas aid for various causes.Recently, companiesoperating in foreign countries have joined in, and the govern-ment has formed a legal framework for overseas relief work andincreased the budget for such aid. by Park Ji-hwan

Korean NGOs actively participate in relief aid over-seas. Good People International donated the solarLED lamps for the Tarukan Village in thePhilippines in October 2009 (opposite). The earth-

quake devastated Haiti caused the collapse ofmany buildings (above). A doctor dispatched fromWorld Vision Korea gave an emergency treatmentto a patient, a victim of the Tsunami tragedy in2004 (below).

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When a tsunami engulfed SoutheastAsia in December 2004, the govern-ment dug deep and supplied funding,supplies and workers worth US$5 mil-lion out of a special budget. Victims of Cyclone Nargis in Myanmar in May2008 received US$2.5 million, andthe Chinese suffering after theSichuan earthquake that year gotUS$5.48 million.

Aside from financial aid, the govern-ment has been sending aid workers toon-site locales. The first quick-response workers from Korea servedin the United States after HurricaneKatrina devastated New Orleans.

Another quick-response unit extend-ed a helping hand to Sichuan after theearthquake. The National 119 RescueService workers sent 41 members toChina just 12 hours after getting thecall for help.

When the influenza A (H1N1) virushit Mexico in April last year, Koreawas there to supply high-qualitymasks, ear thermometers, liquid soap

the Ministry of National Defense,formed the second aid unit, setting upclinics to treat patients in Haiti.

In addition, the government willdeploy peacekeeping forces to helpHaiti recover from its ruins. The forceswill stay in Haiti until December 31this year to lend their hands to thecountry. The Ministry of NationalDefense allocated 28.7 billion won,about US$24.8 million, for expenses.

The governments overseas aidefforts received a much-needed boostin 2007 when the law on overseasemergency aid was passed. Based onthis legal foundation, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade can deter-mine the extent and the method of humanitarian aid, depending on thedegree of damage, in the case of dis-asters. This law also expanded thegovernments budget on overseasrelief aid. Before, an average of US$1million per year was spent on such aidefforts, but the amount has sincerisen to about US$8 million per year.

and blood banks, which had a com-bined value of US$500,000.

In the future, Korea plans to budgetat least US$50 million for overseasemergency aid. The governmentbelieves the amount of overseas aidmust be on a par with our nationalstatus. In order to solidify the struc-ture to provide official developmentassistance (ODA) and to build an aidsystem suitable for Korea, the govern-ment plans to set up a separateagency for international development.

BUSINESSES OFFER THEIR HELPKorean companies havent shied awayfrom reaching out to others. SamsungGroup donated US$1 million to beused in rebuilding Haiti after the mas-sive earthquake. It is the largest con-tribution by a single Korean firm.

Samsung plans to add an additionalUS$1 million or more through localsubsidiaries.

The union at LG Electronics gave 50million won (US$43,500) in relief aidto Good Neighbors. The money isbeing used to help rebuild schoolareas and provide drinking water andmedication. Aside from the laborunion, LG Electronics decided to sup-ply US$60,000 worth of relief goodsand volunteers through its Panamasubsidiary, which services Haiti. Thedispatch of volunteers will be timedwith the arrival of supplies.

Hyundai Heavy Industries workedwith the Haitian embassy in theDominican Republic and the RedCross to send 21-ton and 11-ton exca-vators to facilitate repair work, plusskilled workers to operate the equip-ment. The excavators were providedby the companys dealer in theDominican Republic and its subsidiaryin Chicago. Until emergency restora-tion is complete, Hyundai HeavyIndustries will provide the oil, filter,parts and skills necessary to repairequipment.

Korean firms also showed generosi-ty in the aftermath of the Sichuanearthquake. Beijing Hyundai Motorprovided five Tucson SUVs, worth 1.1million yuan. Dongfeng Yueda Kia, KiaMotors Chinese subsidiary, handedout six Sportage SUVs, worth 1 millionyuan. Hyundai Mobis gave 500,000yuan. Right after the earthquake hit,LG Group donated 17 million yuan tothe Chinese Red Cross. Six of itsmajor affiliates LG Electronics, LGDisplay, LG Chem, LG Household andHealth Care, LG CNS and LGInternational all played a major role.

Through its Chinese subsidiaryDoosan Infracore China, the DoosanGroup gave 1.5 billion won (US$1.3

million) to the Chinese government.For quick recovery work, about 150excavators were provided. KumhoAsiana Group donated US$200,000to the Chinese government after theearthquake, and 480 boxes of instant

noodle packs, 1,680 boxes of bottledwater and other supplies to theChinese Red Cross. Hanjin Groupsupplied 2,000 blankets and 36,0001.5-liter bottles on a special freighterthat traveled to the emergency com-mand center in Chengdu, SichuanProvince.

When Korean companies make

profits in the global markets, thenthey all have roles and responsibilitiesas members of that society, said anofficial with a major conglomerate. Inorder for the Korean firms to establishthemselves in the international mar-kets, they should continue to giveback to society around the world.

THE GOVERNMENT AND THE PUBLICJOIN HANDSA new model for jointgovernment-civic aid to countriesstruck by misfortune is on the way. Asnational interest in overseas aid hasrisen, the government and NGOs haveteamed up. The government and GoodNeighbors will build a youth anti-drugeducation center in Paraguay and a

parasite control center in Tanzania.While Korea has often built schools orhospitals in underdeveloped nations,it has never previously shared itsknow-how in relief aid.

The youth anti-drug education center

will span over 33,000 square metersof land in the Paraguayan capitalAsuncion. It will adopt the Koreanyouth anti-drug education system andoffer concentrated education andmanagement programs to eradicatedrug use among the Paraguays youth.Good Neighbors has already invitedrelated officials, including the minister

of youth in Paraguay, to introducethem to the Korean education pro-grams. The NGO plans to sendexperts to Paraguay in the near future.The Paraguayan government has highexpectations as it prepares to learnfrom Korea, which is virtually free of youth drug abuse.

Good Neighbors will set up a para-site control center in Tanzania and willgive the locals education in preven-tion. Good Neighbors suggested to theKorean government that such a facilitybe built after it recognized the needfor help in dealing with parasites whilecarrying out relief work there. The gov-ernment has been behind the efforts.

Analysts say civilian specialists

have lent their expertise to areas thegovernment cant reach, and thatefforts in Paraguay and Tanzania areexemplary cases that will help raiseKoreas profile in the field of interna-tional aid.

A boy wandered around the region of Batticaloa,eastern province of Sri Lanka, just after theTsunami (below). A Haiti baby is holding a volun-teers hand (opposite).

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The hottest term in Korea at the moment is none other than girl group. They can be seenon every screen, appearing in TV dramas,entertainment shows and even documentaries.

Leaping beyond the boundaries of generation and gender, these pop groups are lightheart-ed, sincere and now stand in a position where every move they make sparks a new trend.

Just what is it about them that drives us into such a frenzy? by Jeong Deok-h

GIRL GROUPSSWEPT UP B

Wonder Girls is giving a performance at a concert in 2009.

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ter. At first he wasnt thrilled about the show, as it felt more of a playground for teenagers than a setting for a father. But oncehe was there, he encountered a sight hed never expected tosee. The crowd lined at the entrance was composed of such adiversity of people, males and females of all ages, from teens

to the middle-aged. Older men and women alike were proudlystanding in line holding the hands of their children, who were inturn carrying posters and CDs in their a rms. The mans appre-hension dissipated at the sight of them. Once inside the con-cert hall, he saw that the venue was packed, from the standingsection lining the stage, to the seats on the second floor.Though the man had attended several concerts in his youth,the scene of men and women of all ages mingling was a for-eign one. However, that feeling soon faded as GirlsGeneration came on stage and began singing and dancing theiradorable, trademark moves. The issue of age was forgotten byeveryone in the concert hall, and they all went wild together.

WAVES OF INFLUENCEThese episodes from the record storeand music venue are ones you would have never seen in thepast. The target demographics for pop bands remained those

still in the middle of their teenage years. In the 1990s, whenthe Korean pop scene thrived, the audience expanded toinclude those in their 20s. Fans organized official clubs, wentto shows to chase after their stars, camped in front of singers

houses and screamed with joy at a sighting. Back then, olderfolks would look at the crazed youths with awe. Their typicalresponse was to cluck their tongues and scold the youngstersfor recklessly chasing singers when they ought to be studyinghard for their futures.

However, 20 years later, things have changed again. Thegeneration that once devoted themselves to fan clubs has nowreached the midway point in their lives. Now they nod theirheads knowingly at those from younger generations and, fur-thermore, theyre willing to sit with them, listen to a newly-bought CD, hum tunes in a car, and even go to concerts. Theformal term of endearment for this age group is uncle andauntie fans. And, at the center of all this change are the girlgroups, who seem to have something for everyone. To elders,these charismatic performers remind them of their youth: tomen, they are beautiful eye candy; to women, they provide arefreshing energy that helps liven dull days and erase frustra-tion with bold, simple messages. Idol girl groups, in mereyears, have become an entity that brings together generations,as opposed to serving as a distinctive divider.

Just when and how did this unique movement manifest?

Was it when the Wonder Girls rocked the entire nation withtheir echoing rhythm to the lyrics of Tell Me? Or was it whenthe retro feel of the hit song Nobody made peoples heartsbeat with excitement? Maybe it was when the refreshing Girls

Inside a typical record shop is a man, in his mid-40s, noncha-lantly pushing a CD of the young girl group 2NE1 over the coun-tertop. Theres a hint of e mbarrassment on his face. Afterstealing a quick glance at the clerk, he mumbles: My daughteris a fan. The cashier gives h is customer a meaningful smileand replies, Theyre really good. I like them a lot too.Sensing his mind was all too-easily read, the man puts on astraight face and insists, No, its not for me, but for mydaughter. But its too late, the words already sound like anexcuse. The clerks smile widens. These days there are manyolder men and women who come in to buy 2NE1 CDs. Themiddle-aged man hurriedly shoves his purchase into his bagand returns to the streets. He ponders his situation: Whowould have thought a man in his 40s would buy an album bya teenage girl group, after convincing himself it was for hisdaughter, then go home to sing the songs with his kids?

What first made this middle-aged man fall for pop bands(commonly referred to as idol groups in Korea) was a GirlsGenerations concert he went to with his grade school daugh-

2NE1 targeted female fans with their boyish features (opposite top). 4Minute hasrecently given concerts in Thailand and the Philippines (opposite below). GirlsGeneration became a teenage icon with their fun and friendly fashion sense (above).

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KOREA magazine [March 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 3]