Knitting Accessories: 7 FREE Patterns for Knitted ......knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top of Block 6—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with H, Rows 10–19 with

KNITTING ACCESSORIES:

7 FREE Patternsfor Knitted Accessories

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Knitting Accessories: 7 FREE Patterns for Knitted Accessories

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KNITTING AccessorIes: 7 Free PATTerNs For

KNITTed AccessorIes

A Knitting Daily eBook edited by Kathleen Cubley

e d I T o r I A l s T A F F

edITor, KNITTING dAIlY Kathleen cubley

c r e A T I v e s e r v I c e s

ProdUcTIoN desIGNer Janice TapiaPhoToGrAPhY As credited

IllUsTrATIoN Gayle Ford

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Interweave Knits and Knitting Daily do not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in this publication. Nor does Knits or Knitting Daily evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evalu ating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Knits or Knitting Daily.

1 Modern Quilt Wrap Mags Kandis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PAGe 4

2 Ribby Slipper Socks cathy carron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGe 9

3 Knitting Needle Knitting Bag Pam Allen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGe 11

4 Folksy Headbands Kristin Nicholas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGe 135 Flip-Top Mittens debbie Bliss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PAGe 156 Bevy of Bangles Mags Kandis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGe 187 Crumpet Beret Maura Kirk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PAGe 20Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PAGe 22

Welcome to our neW free eBook, Knitting ACCESSORiES: 7 FREE PAttERnS FOR KnittEd ACCESSORiES.

I like to have an accessory project on the needles all the time so I can take a break from sweater knitting sometimes, and these small projects will help you practice your skills on a small scale, perhaps challenging yourself a little here and there!

What could be more comforting than being wrapped up in the warmth of a colorful quilt? In the Modern Quilt Wrap, very loosely based on the traditional Log Cabin quilt block, Mags Kandis worked this wrap square by square in the easy and satisfying mitered-square method of color knitting.

These knit slippers are warm and cozy. Cathy Carron designed her Ribby Slipper Socks with an interesting construction and with chunky yarn. They’re a quick, easy knit

Knitting Accessories: 7 FREE Patterns for Knitted Accessories

and you’ll want to knit a pair for everyone in your family.

Pam Allen indulged her fondness for the berry stitch in the Knitting needle Knitting Bag, whose cigar shape was inspired by a bag she saw in a catalog. Rather than binding off, she placed the live stitches on wooden knitting needles, squished them together to form soft gathers, and applied a little superglue.

Kristin Nicholas’s Folksy Headbands are colorful and unique. Knit just one or all three! These headbands make a warm addition to your wardrobe or the perfect gift, if you can bring yourself to give them away!

A pair of frosty-weather mittens in cool blues is just the project to get you started on your winter knitting. Debbie Bliss’s Flip-top Mittens are worked in cashmere, and to make

them more functional, she made them convertible—a flip of the top exposes the fingers. Debbie worked a duplicate-stitch snowflake motif on the hand.

Mag’s Kandis’ Bevy of Bangles came from her love of big, bold bracelets and her loathing of the clang, clang, clunk that almost always accompanies them. Wrapped in beautiful cotton yarn, these bangles are silent!

The Crumpet Beret by Maura Kirk and Fairmount Fibers is one-skein wonder that’s also interesting to knit. This is the perfect gift accessory.

I hope this collection of free accessory knitting patterns will keep you busy!

Cheers,

Kathleen CubleyEditor, KnittingDaily.com

Knitting Accessories: 7 Free Patterns for Knitted Accessories


CA

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by mAGS KANdIS originally published in Folk Style Interweave 2007

Modern Quilt Wrap

finished size: About 161⁄2" (42 cm) wide and 66" (168 cm) long, after blocking.Yarn: Sportweight (#2 Fine). Shown here: Rowan Kidsilk Haze (70% super kid mohair; 30% silk; 230 yd [210 m]/25 g): #597 jelly (lime green; A), #596 marmalade (orange; B), #583 blushes (rose; C), #600 dewberry (lavender; D), #582 trance (medium blue; E), #578 swish (gold; F), #581 meadow (pale blue; G), #595 liqueur (dark red; H), and #588 drab (grey; I), 1 ball each.needles: Size 7 (4.5 mm). Note: a 16" (40 cm) bamboo circular needle is recommended. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.notions: Marker (m); tapestry needle.GauGe: Small square measures 23⁄4" (7 cm) square; large square measures 51⁄2" (14 cm) square, both after blocking.



Stitch guideSmall Square (worked on 24 sts): Row 1: (WS) K12, place marker (pm),

k12.Even-numbered Rows 2–20: (RS) Knit

to 2 sts before m, k2tog, slip marker (sl m), k2tog through back loops (tbl), knit to end—2 sts dec’d; 4 sts rem after completing Row 20.

Odd-numbered Rows 3–21: Knit.Row 22: K2tog, k2tog tbl—2 sts rem. Use left needle tip to lift second st on right needle over the first as if to BO—1 st. Cut yarn, draw tail through rem st, and pull tight to fasten off. Large Square (worked on 48 sts): Row 1: (WS) K24, pm, k24.Even-numbered Rows 2–44: (RS) Knit

to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, k2tog tbl, knit to end—2 sts dec’d; 4 sts rem after completing Row 44.

Odd-numbered Rows 3–45: Knit.Row 46: K2tog, k2tog tbl—2 sts rem. Use left needle tip to lift second st on right needle over the first as if to BO—1 st. Cut yarn, draw tail through rem st, and pull tight to fasten off.

First HalfBlOCK 1

With A, CO 24 sts. Work Small Square (see Stitch Guide), working Rows 1–9 with A and Rows 10–22 with B.BlOCK 2

With I, CO 12 sts, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along side edge of Block 1 as shown in diagram at right—24 sts. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with I, Rows 6–15 with D, and Rows 16–22 with F.BlOCK 3

With F, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top of Block 1, then use the backward-loop method (see

Glossary) to CO 12 sts—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with F, Rows 6–13 with E, and Rows 14–22 with H.BlOCK 4

With C, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top of Block 2, then 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 3—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–3 with C, Rows 4–9 with I, and Rows 12–22 with A.BlOCK 5

With G, CO 24 sts, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right sides of Blocks 2 and 4—48 sts total. Work Large Square (see Stitch Guide), working Rows 1–9 with G, Rows 10–17 with H, Rows 18–23 with C, Rows 24–33 with A, and Rows 34–46 with F.BlOCK 6

With D, CO 24 sts, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 5—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–5 with D, Rows 6–15 with B, Rows 16–23 with E, Rows 24–31 with F, and Rows 32–46 with C.BlOCK 7

With H, CO 24 sts, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top of Block 6—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with H, Rows 10–19 with D, Rows 20–27 with A, Rows 28–33 with G, and Rows 34–46 with B.BlOCK 8

With E, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along lower half of left side of Block 7, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across first half of top edge of Block 5—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–9 with E and Rows 10–22 with C.BlOCK 9

With I, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly

spaced along left side of Block 8, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across second half of top edge of Block 5—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with I, Rows 6–11 with B, and Rows 12–22 with D.BlOCK 10

With F, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top half of left side of Block 7, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top edge of Block 8—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with F, Rows 6–11 with H, and Rows 12–22 with D.BlOCK 11

With G, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 10, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top edge of Block 9—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–9 with G and Rows 10–22 with F.BlOCK 12

With E, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along left sides of Blocks 11 and 9, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along top edges of Blocks 4 and 3—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–7 with E, Rows 8–13 with A, Rows 14–25 with C, Rows 26–35 with B, and Rows 36–46 with G.BlOCK 13

With I, pick up and knit 24 st evenly spaced along top edge of Block 12, then use the backward-loop method to CO 24 sts—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with I, Rows 10–17 with F, Rows 18–25 with D, Rows 26–33 with H, and Rows 34–46 with G.BlOCK 14

With B, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along top edges of Blocks 10 and 11, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 13—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working



Rows 1–7 with B, Rows 8–15 with E, Rows 16–27 with A, Rows 28–35 with D, and Rows 36–46 with C.BlOCK 15

With C, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along second half of top edge of Block 7, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along lower half of right side of Block 14—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with C and Rows 12–22 with A.BlOCK 16

With I, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along first half of top edge of Block 7, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 15—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with I, Rows 6–13 with F, and Rows 14–22 with E.BlOCK 17

With F, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top edge of Block 15, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top half of right side of Block 14—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–9 with F and Rows 10–22 with H.BlOCK 18

With G, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 16, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 17—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with G and Rows 12–22 with B.BlOCK 19

With C, use the backward-loop method to CO 24 sts, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edges of Blocks 18 and 17—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–7 with C, Rows 8–17 with I, Rows 18–27 with E, Rows 28–35 with A, and Rows 36–46 with B.BlOCK 20

With D, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 19, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced

across top edge of Block 14—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with D, Rows 10–17 with B, Rows 18–25 with H, Rows 26–35 with F, and Rows 36–46 with I.BlOCK 21

With C, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along lower half of left side of Block 20, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across first half of top edge of Block 13—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with C and Rows 12–22 with F.BlOCK 22

With A, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 21, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across second half of top edge of Block 13—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with A, Rows 6–11 with D, and Rows 12–22 with B.BlOCK 23

With G, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top half of left side of Block 20, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 21—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with G and Rows 12–22 with D.BlOCK 24

With E, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 23, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 22—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with E and Rows 12–22 with A.BlOCK 25

With F, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edges of Blocks 23 and 24, then use the backward-loop method to CO 24 sts—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with F, Rows 10–17 with B, Rows 18–27 with I, Rows 28–37 with E, and Rows 38–46 with C.

BlOCK 26

With E, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across second half of top edge of Block 20, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along lower half of right side of Block 25—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with E and Rows 12–22 with B.BlOCK 27

With C, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across first half of top edge of Block 20, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 26—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with C, Rows 6–13 with G, and Rows 14–22 with F.BlOCK 28

With A, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 26, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top half of right side of Block 25—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with A and Rows 12–22 with G.BlOCK 29

With D, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 27, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 28—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with D, Rows 6–13 with E, and Rows 14–22 with A.BlOCK 30

With I, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 19, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right sides of Blocks 27 and 29—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with I, Rows 10–17 with H, Rows 18–27 with A, Rows 28–35 with F, and Rows 36–46 with C.BlOCK 31

With G, CO 12 sts, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across first half of top edge of Block 30—24 sts



total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with G and Rows 12–22 with E.BlOCK 32

With D, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 31, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across second half of top edge of Block 30—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with D, Rows 6–13 with A, and Rows 14–22 with I.BlOCK 33

With A, CO 12 sts, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 31— 24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with A, Rows 6–13 with C, and Rows 14–22 with B.BlOCK 34

With F, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 33, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 32—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with F, Rows 6–11 with H, and Rows 12–22 with G.BlOCK 35

With C, pick up and knit 24 sts along left sides of Blocks 34 and 32, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edges of Blocks 29 and 28—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–7 with C, Rows 8–15 with B, Rows 16–25 with I, Rows 26–35 with D, and Rows 36–46 with A.BlOCK 36

With D, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 35, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 25—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with D, Rows 10–17 with G, Rows 18–25 with H, Rows 26–35 with E, and Rows 36–46 with C. This completes first half of wrap.

First Half

A lime green

B orange

C rose

D lavender

F gold

E medium blue

G pale blue

H dark red

36

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24 23

2122 20

2726

28 29

35

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13 14

17

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71011

9 8

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3 4

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5 6

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31

I grey



Second HalfWork the first group of blocks for the second half directly onto the top edge of the first half, modifying the block instructions for the first half as foll:BlOCK 1

With A, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across second half of top edge of Block 36, then CO 12 sts—24 sts. Work as for Block 1 in first half.BlOCK 2

With I, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across first half of top edge of Block 36, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 1—24 sts. Work as for Block 2 in first half.

BlOCKS 3 ANd 4

Work as for first half.BlOCK 5

With G, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 35, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right sides of Blocks 2 and 4—48 sts total. Work as for Block 5 in first half.BlOCK 6

With D, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Blocks 33 and 34, then pick up and knit 24 sts along right side of Block 5—48 sts total. Work as for Block 6 in first half.

BlOCKS 7–36

Work as for first half.

FinishingWeave in loose ends. Block lightly to measurements.

mags Kandis is the author of Gifted and the editor of Folk Style. Her designs appear in publications including Inter-weave Knits, Vogue Knitting, and Knit-ter’s. Mags lives in the heart of Quinte, Ontario.

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by CATHY CARRONoriginally published in Interweave Knits Holiday Gifts, 2008

Ribby Slipper Socks

Chunky yarn, a simple rib pattern, and a clever, easy construction make these slipper socks quick and simple to knit. Designed in five sizes, from toddler to adult, so a beginner or someone short on time can whip up matching slippers for the whole family!

finished size: 43⁄4 (43⁄4, 43⁄4, 61⁄2, 61⁄2)" foot circumference and 6 (71⁄2, 9, 101⁄2, 12)" from tip of toe to back of heel. To fit toddler (child, small woman, large woman, man).Yarn: Blue Sky Alpacas Bulky (50% alpaca, 50% wool; 45 yd [41 m]/100 g): MC, 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) ball(s).

Blue Sky Alpacas Worsted Hand Dyes (50% alpaca, 50% wool; 100 yd [91 m]/100 g): CC, 1 ball (all sizes). Shown in colors as foll:Toddler:MC: #1003 porcupine (light khaki)CC: #2014 oliveChild:MC: #1002 silver mink (light beige)CC: #2007 light blueSmall woman (not shown):MC: #1003 porcupine (light khaki)CC: #2001 dungaree blueLarge woman:MC: #1001 lynx (medium khaki)CC: #2014 olive



Man:MC: #1002 silver mink (light beige)CC: #2001 dungaree blueneedles: Sizes 11 (8 mm) and 8 (5 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

notions: Tapestry needle; stitch marker (m).GauGe: 15 sts and 15 rows = 4" in 1×1 rib with MC on larger needles, relaxed; 14 sts and 23 rows = 4" in 2×2 rib with CC on smaller needles, relaxed.

SlipperWith MC and larger needles, CO 12 sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3 dpn, place maker (pm) to indicate beg of rnd, and join in the rnd.Rnd 1: Knit.Rnd 2: *K1, k1f&b; rep from * around—18 sts.Rnd 3: Knit.SIzES lARGE wOmAN ANd mAN ONlY:

Rnd 4: *K2, k1f&b; rep from * around—24 sts.Rnd 5: Knit.

All SIzES:

Rnd 6: *K1, p1; rep from * around. Rep

Rnd 6 until piece measures 3 (4, 5, 6, 7)" from toe tip. Leg opening: Working back and forth in rows, cont in 1×1 rib for 3 (31⁄2, 4, 41⁄2, 5)" more—piece measures 6 (71⁄2, 9, 101⁄2, 12)" from toe. Join back of heel: Place 9 (9, 9, 12, 12) sts onto each of 2 dpn. Holding these dpn parallel with RS tog, use the three-needle BO (see Glossary) to join back of heel. Cuff: With smaller dpn, CC, and RS facing, beg at top of heel seam, pick up and knit 36 (36, 40, 44, 48) sts around leg opening. Divide sts onto 3 dpn and join in the rnd. Work in 2×2 rib for 4 (4, 5, 5, 5)". BO all sts loosely in rib. Weave in loose ends. With MC threaded on a tapestry needle, close any rem hole at toe.

Cathy Carron is the author of Hip Knit Hats: 40 Fabulous Designs (Lark Books, 2005). She lives in New York City.



by PAm AllEN originally published in Bag Style (Interweave, 2007)

Knitting needle Knitting Bag

Pam Allen indulged her fondness for the berry stitch in this quick-and-easy knitting bag whose cigar shape was inspired by a bag she saw in a catalog. For the front and back, she knitted two slightly shaped rectangles and seamed them along the bottom and partway up the sides. Rather than binding off, she placed the live stitches on wooden knitting needles, squished them together to form soft gathers, and applied a little superglue. Garter-stitch handles sewn to the front and back are all that’s needed to finish the bag. This particular bag isn’t lined, but it would be an easy matter to use the front and back as pattern pieces and add a cheery print lining to prevent needles from poking through.

finished size: About 18¾" (47.5 cm) wide and 9" (23 cm) tall, excluding handles. Yarn: Chunky weight (#5 Bulky). Shown here: Nashua Handknits Creative Focus Chunky (75% wool, 25% alpaca; 110 yd [101 m]/100 g): #1940 dried rose, 3 balls. needles: Bag—size 10½ (6.5 mm). Handles—size 9 (5.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. notions: Tapestry needle; size 15 (10 mm) wooden needles; superglue. GauGe: 17 stitches and 19 rows = 4" (10 cm) in pattern stitch on larger needles.skill level: Beginner.

CA

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Stitch guide:p3tog: Insert needle as though to purl through next 3 stitches on left-hand needle. Wrap yarn and pull through all three stitches at once—3 stitches decreased to 1.

BackWith larger needles, CO 80 sts. Row 1: (WS) K2, *(k1, p1, k1) in next

st, p3tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K2, *p3tog, (k1, p1, k1) in next

st; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Row 4: Purl.

Rep Rows 1–4 until piece measures 9" (23 cm) from CO, ending with Row 4 of patt. dec row: (WS) K2, *k1, p3tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2—42 sts rem. Loosely knit 1 row. With size 15 wooden needles, purl 1 row. Leave sts on needle.

FrontCO 80 sts and work as for back.

Handles (make 2)With smaller needles, CO 6 sts. Work in garter st (knit every row) until piece measures 21" (53.5 cm) from CO. BO all sts.

FinishingGently steam-press pieces. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew bottom seam. Beg at bottom edge, sew side seams for 5" (12.5 cm). Spread sts evenly along wooden needle from knob end to 1½" (3.8 cm) from tip. Use superglue to secure last few sts at pointed end. Sew handles to bag 10 sts in from each end.

Renowned designer Pam allen is a former editor of Interweave Knits and is one of the founders of Quince & Co. She was the creative director at Classic Elite Yarns and is the author of Scarf Style.

Find more great designs in Bag Style published by

Interweave Press (2007)

bookEXCERPT

http://www.interweavestore.com/Knitting/Books/Bag-Style.html



finished size: Fair Isle headband: 22" head circumference. Garter and embroidered headbands: 23" head circumference. Yarn: Nashua Handknits Julia (50% wool, 25% alpaca, 25% mohair; 93 yd [85 m]/50 g):#2163 golden honey (A)#5185 spring green (B)#2083 magenta (C) #2250 French pumpkin (D)#6416 midnight blue (E)Garter Ridge headband: B, D, E, 1 skein each; Embroidered headband: B, C, D, E, 1 skein each; Fair Isle headband: A, B, C, D, E, 1 skein each. Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers.

needles: Embroidered and Fair Isle headbands—Sizes 7 (4.5 mm) and 8 (5 mm): 16" circular (cir). Garter headband—size 7 (4.5 mm): 16" cir. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.notions: Tapestry needle.GauGe: Garter headband: 4 sts and 10 rows = 1" in garter st on size 7 needle in the rnd. Embroidered headband: 4½ sts and 10 rows = 1" in garter st on size 8 needle in the rnd. Fair Isle headband: 3¾ sts and 6¼ rows = 1 in St st on size 8 needle in the rnd.

by KRISTIN NICHOlASoriginally published for online download from Interweave Knits Gifts Holiday 2007

Folksy Headbands

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Stitch guideBobbled Edging: (multiple of 6 sts) *P2, ([k1, p1] 2 times) all into next st, turn, k4, turn, p4, sl 2nd, 3rd, and 4th sts over first st, p3; rep from * around.

Bobbled Bind-Off: *BO 2 sts pwise, ([k1, p1] 2 times) all into next st, turn, k4, turn, p4, sl the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th sts over the first st, BO first st pwise, BO 3 next sts; rep from * around.

Embroidered HeadbandWith smaller needle and B, CO 92 sts. Join for working in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Work 4 rnds in garter st. Change to D and larger needle and work in St st for 11⁄2". Change to B and work 6 rnds in garter st. BO all sts kwise. Embroidery: Vine: Working in chain st (see Glossary) with E, embroider an undulating vine as photographed. Flowers: Work 3 daisy flowers (see Glossary) at each low point of the vine using a single strand of yarn. With B doubled, work a single straight st (see Glossary) in the center of each daisy petal to fill in. Weave in loose ends.

Fair isle and Bobble HeadbandWith C and smaller needle, CO 90 sts. Join for working in the rnd. Work bobbled edging rnd (see Stitch Guide). Purl 2 rnds. Change to B and knit 1 rnd, then purl 2 rnds. Change to D and work 2 rnds in garter st. Change to larger needle. With B and E, work 11 rnds of Fair Isle chart. Change to smaller needle and A and work 2 rnds in garter st. Change to B and knit 1 rnd, purl 2 rnds. Change to E and knit 1 rnd, purl 2 rnds. With C, BO all sts with bobbled BO (see Stitch Guide). Embroidery: Work a cross st (see Glossary) in the center opening of each Fair Isle diamond. Make 3 each alternating between colors A, C, and D. Weave in loose ends.

Kristin niCholas lives in northwest Massachusetts on a farm with her hus-band, daughter, and a miscellany of farm animals.

garter HeadbandWith D, CO 92 sts. Join for working in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Work 4 rnds in garter st, beg with a knit rnd. Change to E and knit 1 rnd, then purl 2 rnds. Change to B and work 8 rnds in garter st. Change to E and knit 1 rnd, then purl 2 rnds. Change to D and work 6 rnds in garter st. BO all sts kwise.



A pair of frosty-weather mittens in cool blues is just the project to get you started on your winter knitting. Debbie Bliss worked this pair in cashmere, and to make the mittens more functional, she made them convertible—a flip of the top exposes the fingers. Work a duplicate-stitch snowflake motif on the hand and add a bobble closure to hold the top flap closed.

finished size: About 8" hand circumference and 9" long from CO edge to tip of hand, not including decorative loop. To fit a woman’s medium.

Yarn: Debbie Bliss Pure Cashmere (100% cashmere; 50 yd [46 m]/25 g): #012 royal purple (MC), 3 balls; #05 turquoise (CC), 1 ball. Yarn distributed by Knitting Fever.needles: Sizes 7 (4.5 mm) and 8 (5 mm): straight. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.notions: Markers (m); stitch holders (optional); removable marker or waste yarn; tapestry needle.GauGe: 20 sts and 25 rows = 4" in St st on larger needles.NOTE

Mittens are worked flat in rows and seamed after completing embroidery.

by dEBBIE BlISSoriginally published for online download from Interweave Knits, Winter 2006

Flip-top Mittens

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Right MittenCuff: With smaller needles and MC, CO 40 sts. next row: (RS) *K1, p1; rep from * to end. Work even in established rib for 13 more rows, ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles. Work 2 rows even in St st (knit on RS; purl on WS), ending with a WS row—piece measures about 21⁄2" from CO. Shape thumb gusset: (RS) K21, pm, M1 (see Glossary), k1, M1, pm, k18—42 sts; 3 sts between gusset m. Work 3 rows even in St st. next row: (RS) Knit to first gusset m, slip marker (sl m), M1, knit to second gusset m, M1, sl m, knit to end—2 sts inc’d between gusset m. Cont in St st, rep the shaping of the last 4 rows 2 more times—9 sts between gusset m; 48 sts total. Purl 1 WS row. thumb: (RS) Removing gusset m as you come to them, k30, turn, use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 2 sts, p13, turn—13 center sts for thumb; with RS facing there will be 19 sts on needle before thumb sts, and 18 sts on needle after thumb sts. note: Thumb is worked back and forth on center sts; you may leave the hand sts on either side of thumb on the needle, or place hand sts on separate holders as desired. Work even in St st on 13 thumb sts only until thumb measures 21⁄2" (about 16 rows) or 1⁄2" less than desired length, ending with a WS row. next row: (RS) K1, *ssk, k1; rep from * to end—9 sts rem. Purl 1 WS row. next row: (RS) K1, [ssk] 4 times—5 sts. Break yarn, leaving an 8" tail. With tapestry needle, thread tail through rem sts drawstring-fashion, pull tight to close tip of thumb, and fasten off on WS of work. Hand: Return hand sts to needle if you placed them on holders. Rejoin yarn with RS facing to beg of thumb gap, pick up and knit 3 sts from base of thumb, knit to

end—40 sts. Work even in St st until hand measures 2" (about 14 rows) from sts picked up at base of thumb, ending with a RS row. next row: (WS) BO 18 sts for finger slit, purl to end—22 sts rem. next row: (RS) K22, CO 18 sts to complete finger slit—40 sts. Work even in St st until hand measures 1" above finger slit (about 7 rows), or 11⁄2" less than desired total length, ending with a WS row. Shape top: Row 1: (RS) K2, *ssk, k13, k2tog, k2;

rep from * once more—36 sts rem.Row 2: (WS) Purl.Row 3: K2, *ssk, k11, k2tog, k2; rep

from * once more—32 sts rem.Row 4: P2, *p2tog, p9, p2tog through

back loops (tbl), p2; rep from * once more—28 sts rem.

Row 5: K2, *ssk, k7, k2tog, k2; rep from * once more—24 sts rem.

Row 6: P2, *p2tog, p5, p2tog tbl, p2; rep from * once more—20 sts rem.

Row 7: K2, *ssk, k3, k2tog, k2; rep from * once more—16 sts rem.

Row 8: P2, *p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, p2; rep from * once more—12 sts rem.

Row 9: K2, [sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2] twice—8 sts rem.

BO all sts.

Left MittenWith smaller needles and MC, CO 40 sts. Work 14 rows of k1, p1 rib as for right mitten. Change to larger needles and work 2 rows even in St st, ending with a WS row—piece measures about 21⁄2" from CO. Shape thumb gusset: (RS) K18, pm, M1, k1, M1, pm, k21—42 sts; 3 sts between gusset m. Work thumb gusset as for right mitten—9 sts between gusset m; 48 sts total. Purl 1 WS row. thumb: (RS) Removing gusset m as you come to them, k27, turn, use the cable method to CO 2 sts,

p13, turn—13 center sts for thumb; with RS facing there will be 16 sts on needle before thumb sts, and 21 sts on needle after thumb sts. If desired, place sts on either side of thumb on holders. Complete thumb as for right mitten. Hand: Return hand sts to needle if you placed them on holders. Rejoin yarn with RS facing to beg of thumb gap, pick up and knit 3 sts from base of thumb, knit to end—40 sts. Work even in St st until hand measures 2" (about 13 rows) from sts picked up at base of thumb, ending with a WS row. next row: (RS) BO 18 sts for finger slit, knit to end—22 sts rem. next row: (WS) P22, CO 18 sts to complete finger slit—40 sts. Work even in St st until hand measures same as right mitten to beg of top shaping (about 8 rows), or 11⁄2" less than desired total length, ending with a WS row. Shape top: Work as for right mitten—8 sts rem. BO all sts.

FinishingBobbles (make 2): With smaller needles and CC, CO 1 st. next row: [K1, p1, k1, p1, k1] all in same st—5 sts. *Purl 1 row, knit 1 row; rep from * once more—4 rows St st completed on 5 sts. next row: (WS) Pass 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th sts over 1st st as if to BO, then knit rem st tbl. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for attaching bobble, and thread tail through last st to fasten off. top loop (make 2): With smaller needles and MC, CO 10 sts. BO all sts on next row. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for attaching loop. Embroidery: Identify the center stitch column on the back of each mitten, then with removable marker or waste yarn, mark the st in the center column about 31⁄2" down from tip of mitten; this marked st is the center st of the



snowflake embroidery motif (indicated by heavy outline on diagram). With CC threaded on a tapestry needle, embroider snowflake motif on back of each hand using duplicate stitch (at right). Using tails threaded on tapestry needle, sew one bobble to back of each mitten about 1" below snowflake motif as shown. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew seam on pinky side of each mitten from CO edge to top. Sew thumb seams. Attach a loop to end of each mitten tip as shown. Weave in ends.

debbie bliss lives, knits, and designs in “merry olde” England.

Snowflake Embroidery

MC

duplicate st with CC

center st



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These silent bangles came to be because of my love of big, bold bracelets and my loathing of the clang, clang, clunk that almost always accompanies them. The first time I wore an armful to “girl’s night,” all my girlfriends wanted their own. I spent one evening knitting up a basket full of bases, then on the following afternoon, I tossed them all into the wash to felt them. I spent the next available evening surrounded by colorful cotton yarn, wrapping and playing to make each bangle unique.

finished size: About 7½" (19 cm) inside circumference.Yarn: Bulky (#5 Bulky) and sportweight (#2 Fine). Shown here: Felted Bases: Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Bulky (85% wool,15% mohair; 125 yd [114 m]/100 g): #m04 charcoal heather, #m162 mulberry,#m145 spice, #m173 wild violet, #m18 khaki, small amounts of each.WraPPinG Yarn: Brown Sheep Cotton Fine (80% cotton, 20% merino; 222 yd [203 m]/50 g): #cf930 candy apple,

by mAGS KANdISoriginally published in Gifted (Interweave, 2010)

Bevy of Bangles



#cf005 cavern, #cf375 rue, #cf770 wisteria, #cf455 willow leaf, #cf450 oriental jade, and #cf860 Sedona red, small amounts of each.needles: Size U.S. 11 (8 mm): straight plus 1 extra needle for three-needle bind-off.notions: Size L/11 (8 mm) crochet hook and smooth waste yarn for provisional caston; tapestry needle.GauGe: About 10 stitches and 13 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch, before felting. Exact gauge is not crucial for this project.NOTES

• The bangles are shown in two sizes based on the number of stitches cast-on. The pattern is written for the thinner size with the thicker size in parentheses.

• Some of the bangle bases are knitted in a single color, others are

worked in two colors. Try different combinations, have fun, and savor your time playing with color.

• For thicker bands of color, double the yarn when wrapping the bangle; for thinner bands, use a single strand. Experiment to get the look you want.

• One skein of Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Bulky is enough for at least a dozen bangle bases.

Felted BaseWith bulky yarn and using the crochet provisional method (see Glossary), CO 5 (7) sts. Work even in St st for 40 rows—piece measures about 12¼" (31 cm) from CO. Carefully remove the waste yarn from the provisional CO and place the live sts on a needle. Hold the needles parallel with RS of work facing tog to form a ring and use the three-needle method (see Glossary) to BO the sts tog. Weave in loose ends.

FeltingSee below for felting instructions.

FinishingThread a length of wrapping yarn on a tapestry needle. Secure the yarn on the inside of the bangle, then wrap the yarn around the base ring, using even tension to ensure that the base ring doesn’t compress too tightly or that the wraps aren’t too loose and appear sloppy.

mags Kandis is the author of Gifted and the editor of Folk Style. Her designs appear in publications including Inter-weave Knits, Vogue Knitting, and Knit-ter’s. Mags lives in the heart of Quinte, Ontario.

FeltingWhen it comes to felting, you don’t have to limit yourself to pure wool. Alpaca, camel, yak, cashmere, mohair, and angora all have great felting potential. But because every yarn felts differently, it is important that you knit and felt a generous swatch to understand how a particular yarn will behave. Try felting blends of these fibers with nonfelting fibers—silk, tencel, rayon, or soy—for an inspiring adventure. Swatch and wash to discover the possibilities. There is no magical formula when it comes to the shrinking factor of a felted project. Therefore, it’s always a good idea to take the time to knit and wash a swatch. Every yarn felts differently—even different colors of the same yarn can have very different results. Small projects are best handfelted. Be careful not to let the inside of a project fuse together. I had to gently pry apart the sides of my first felted egg cozy and the crease never went away. Check the progress periodically and never underestimate how quickly an item can go from floppy to felted. When felting in the washing machine, place the project in a lingerie bag or pillowcase to

reduce the amount of fiber that can escape and clog the machine or attach to the next load of laundry. Keep in mind that what appears to be a felting disaster may in fact be a wonderful opportunity. I have had more than my share of mishaps when felting. The boo-boos that I’ve collected over the years have become inspiring materials for other projects.



This jaunty lace beret is knit using just one ball of Manos del Uruguay’s luxurious silk blend.A dimensional 5-point leaf pattern pops out on a reverse stockinette ground creating an eye-catching motif. Sized to fit a Women’s medium (large) head and knit from the center out, it is easily customizable to achieve a perfect fit.

finished size: 17" (20") Circumference (with band relaxed) 9" (10") Diameter.Yarn: Manos Silk Blend (30% silk/70% wool; 150 yds/50 gms) 1 (2) sk Citric 3068.needles: One set five double pointed needles, size US5 (3.75mm). One 16" circular needle size US4 (3.5mm)notions: 5 stitch markers, Tapestry needle, 9" diameter plate (for blocking)

by mAURA KIRKoriginally published by Fairmount Fibers

Crumpet Beret

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GauGe: 26 sts and 32 rows = 4" in StSt on Size US5 (3.75mm). Change needle size if necessary to obtain gauge*Be sure to check your gauge! The size medium uses a full skein of yarn.skill level: Intermediate.

Hat1. Using dpn, cast on 5 sts and join in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches.2. * kfb, pm; rep from * 5 times. (10 sts)

Work rnds 1-32 of the chart. (170 sts)Rnd 33: *k1, yo, p2tog, p31; rep from *

5 times. (170 sts)Rnd34: *k1, p31, p2tog tbl, yo; rep from

* 5 times. (170 sts)Repeat rnds 33 and 34 5 (10) times more, or as desired for length. (170 sts)next round: Size Medium: p2tog around (85 sts).Size Large: p1, *p2tog, p1; rep from * to last st, p1. (114sts)next round: k2tog 1 (0) times, *p1, k1;

work from * to end.Work 11 more rounds in k1, p1 rib.Bind off loosely in pattern.

FinishingWeave in ends.Soak beret in woolwash and lukewarm water for 10 min. Stretch over a 9" diameter plate and allow to dry.

NOTES ON THE CHART:

The markers each show the division between one petal and the next. The chart represents the stitches of one segment; work each chart row 5 times to complete the round.

maura KirK has a BS in Textile Engi-neering and Technology and she’s work-ing on an MS program in Textile Engi-neering. Maura works at a yarn shop on the weekends and she knits to unwind and designs a bit when she’s inspired.

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Chart:

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purl

yarn over

k2tog tbl

k2tog sl1, k2tog, psso/

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Key:

glossary KNITTING ACCESSORIES: 7 FREE PATTERNS FOR KNITTED ACCESSORIES


Knit Stitch (k)With yarn held to the back of the work, in-sert the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle from bottom of the stitch to top and from the front of the stitch to the back. Wrap yarn around right-needle tip counterclockwise. slip the right needle back through the stitch, carrying the wrapped yarn with it, then drop the worked stitch off the left needle. Gently tighten the yarn. one knit stitch completed on right needle.

Purl Stitch (p)With yarn held to the front of the work, insert the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle from the top of the stitch to the bottom and from the back of the stitch to the front. Wrap the yarn around the right-needle tip counterclockwise. draw the right needle back through the stitch carrying the wrapped yarn with it, drop the worked stitch of the left needle and gently tighten the yarn. one purl stitch com-pleted on right needle.

Illustrations by Gayle Ford

ABBREVIATIONS

co cast on k knit k1f&b knit into front and

back of same st k2tog knit two stitches

together k2tog tbl knit two together

through back loops (one st decreased)

kfb knit into the front & back loop of the same st (one st increased)

kwise knitwise p purl p1f&b purl into front and

back of same st p2tog purl two stitches

together pm pm psso pass slipped stitch

over

p2sso pass two slipped stitches over

p2tog purl two together (one st decreased)

p2tog tbl purl two together through back loops

(one st decreased) pwise purlwise rev st st reverse stockinette

stitch rib ribbing sl1 k2tog psso slip one st purlwise,

knit two sts together & pass the slipped st over (two sts decreased)

sl st slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise unless otherwise indi-cated)

ssk slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)

ssp slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, p2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)

st(s) stitch(es) st st stockinette stitch tbl through back loop wyb with yarn in back wyf with yarn in front yo yarn over

Invisible (Provisional) Cast-OnPlace a loose slipknot on needle held in your right hand. hold waste yarn next to slipknot and around left thumb; hold working yarn over left index fin-ger. *Bring needle forward under waste yarn, over working yarn, grab a loop of working yarn (Figure 1), then bring needle to the front, over both yarns, and grab a second loop (Figure 2). repeat from *. When you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pick out waste yarn to expose live stitches.

Figure 1 Figure 2

Backward-Loop Cast-On*Loop working yarn and place it on needle backward so that it doesn’t un-wind. Repeat from *.




Three-Needle Bind-OffPlace stitches to be joined onto two separate needles. hold them with right sides of knitting facing together. Insert a third needle into first stitch on each of the other two needles and knit them together as one stitch. *Knit next stitch on each needle the same way. Pass first stitch over second stitch. re-peat from * until one stitch remains on third needle. cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch.

Cable Cast-OnBegin with a slipknot and one knitted cast-on stitch if there are no established stitches. Insert right needle be tween first two stitches on left needle (Figure 1). Wrap yarn as if to knit. draw yarn through to complete stitch (Figure 2) and slip this new stitch to left needle as shown (Figure 3).

Figure 1 Figure 3Figure 2

Crochet Chain (Provisional) Cast-OnWith waste yarn and crochet hook, make a loose chain of about four stitches more than you need to cast on. With needle, working yarn, and beginning two stitches from end of chain, pick up and knit one stitch through the back loop of each crochet chain (Figure 1) for desired number of stitches. Work the piece as desired, and when you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pull out the crochet chain to expose live stitches (Figure 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2

Chain Stitch EmbroideryBring threaded needle out from back to front at center of a knitted stitch. Form a short loop and insert needle back where it came out. Keeping the loop under the needle, bring needle back out in center of next stitch to the right.

Cross-Stitch*Bring threaded needle out from back to front at lower left edge of the knitted stitch you want to cover. Working left to right, insert the needle at the upper right edge of the same stitch and bring it back out at the lower left edge of the adjacent stitch, directly below and in line with the insertion point. repeat from * to form one half of the cross. Then work from right to left in the same manner to work the other half of the cross.

Daisy StitchBring threaded needle out from back to front at center of a knitted stitch. *Form a short loop and insert needle back where it came out. Keeping loop under needle, bring needle back out in center of next stitch over. Beginning each stitch at the same point on the knitted background, repeat from * for desired number of petals (six shown).

Straight Stitch Embroiderystraight stitches can be worked side by side or radiating out from a center point. For best results, avoid stitches that are too long, too loose, or too close together. *Bring threaded needle out from back to front at the base of the knitted stitch(es) you want to cover. Insert the needle at the top of the stitch(es) you want to cover. repeat from * (Figure 1). Work straight stitches, alter-nating long stitches with short stitches (Figure 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2




Duplicate Stitchhorizontal: Bring threaded needle out from back to front at the base of the v of the knitted stitch you want to cover. *Working right to left, pass needle in and out under the stitch in the row above it and back into the base of the same stitch. Bring needle back out at the base of the v of the next stitch to the left. repeat from *.vertical: Beginning at lowest point, work as for horizontal du-plicate stitch, ending by bringing the needle back out at the base of the stitch directly above the stitch just worked.

Raised (M1) Increases

With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the front (Figure 2).

Right Slant (M1R)

Figure 1 Figure 2

Figure 1 Figure 2

With left needle tip, lift strand between needles, from back to front (Figure 1). Purl lifted loop (Figure 2).

Purlwise (M1P)

With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the back (Figure 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2

Left Slant (M1L) and Standard M1

Find more

great designs in

Gifted

published by

Interweave Press

(2010)

bookEXCERPT
http://www.interweavestore.com/Knitting/Books/Gifted-eBook.html

Documents

Knitting Accessories: 7 FREE Patterns for Knitted ......knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top of Block 6—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with H, Rows 10–19 with