KNIT-LINEKnitwear. Open width concepts.

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Advantages of open width treatment of knitted fabric

The advantages of the open width treatment of knitwear at a glance■ No crease marks from rope treatment■ Less hairiness and a smoother fabric

surface (no micro-pilling or pilling)■ No enzyme treatment necessary■ 15–30% less variable costs for

processing■ No fabric losses due to slitting defects

when cutting wet fabric■ Halving water and steam consumption■ No rubbing or abrasion defects■ Shrinking of man-made fibres can

be easily controlled with high repro-ducibility

■ CPB dyeing with reactive dyestuffs possible

Benninger the leading manufacturer ofroller vat washing machines is alsoyour best partner for the open widthtreatment of knits and high elastic fab-rics with synthetic fibres.

The heart of open width treatment is theTRIKOFLEX system. It has set new stan -dards in textile finishing for its low tensiontreatment with maximum washing efficiency.

Beside the TRIKOFLEX, Benninger can deliver the entire program for the openwidth treatment of knitted fabric. Reactionstores, pre-treatment steamers and underliquor stores can be combined with the TRIKOFLEX according to process require-ments.

A high degree of flexibility, quality pro -blems and high water and energy con-sumption are the main reasons to switchthe treatment of knitted goods to openwidth form.

Typical rubbing and abrasion defects from JET processing

KNIT-LINE

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TRIKOFLEX – Maximum washing efficiency at lowest tension

Minimal fabric tension and lengthening■ Due to the water load, the fabric in

creases its weight threefold, therefore free hanging fabric must be avoided.

■ Wave water is spray water which cau-ses water sacks to form when landing on a horizontally or diagonally guided fabric run. The TRIKOFLEX washing machine has not only larger immerse rollers that minimise the distance to thegrooved drum, but handing over of the fabric under the liquor surface has also been realised. This allows the wave water to be used to increase the wash-ing effect without lengthening the fab-ric.

■ TRIKOFLEX washing compartments arefitted with the most up-to-date AC dri-ves. Not only are the intermediate squeezing units frequency controlled, but all the grooved drums are also

driven by AC motors. As an optionalextra, the immerse rollers can be fittedwith support drives. Swivelling com-pensator rollers control the intermedi-ate and main squeezing units as well asthe second grooved drum. Ratio con-trol allows differential speeds betweenthe grooved drums.

Excellent accessibilityThanks to the compact design, the wash -ing compartments are only 140 cm highand are easily accessible which makesservice and handling extremely easy.

No curling selvedge due to■ The use of scroll rollers and selvedge

decurlers■ Minimal distances between the fabric

guiding elements

BEN-WASH

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Grooved drum

The heart of the TRIKOFLEX washingsystem is the grooved drum with a combination of grooved profile and meshcovering.

It serves as a supporting element for thefabric. The large surface of the drum ensures smooth and low tension fabricpassage over a long contact path. Theenclosed design prevents impurities fromentering the drum.

Further features:■ Minimum deflection points■ Short fabric path in the area of the

drum, trough and compensating roll■ Large roll diameter■ Low tension fabric transport through

controlled single motor drives

Spray pipes are arranged around the grooved drum and integrated into thecirculating system. These ensure the extremely high washing efficiency at great circulating capacities.

The drum surface forms the groove pro-file with a mesh covering. As the fabricpasses through the spray section, it issupported by the drum surface and isthus unable to avoid the hydrodynamicwater pressure.

The result:The washing liquor penetrates the fabricand forms a liquor film on the front andback side. In this way, impurities on bothsides are quickly removed. At the sametime a cleaning effect within the mesh iscreated. The washing effect, compared tostandard mesh and screen drum sys-tems, is considerably increased.

Drawing of the active washing principle with grooved drum1 Closed drum body2 Groove profile3 Mesh belt4 Fabric5 Outer liquor film6 Spray pipe

Spray batteryThe spray battery with adjustable sprayangle is decisive for the optimum wash-ing effect in addition to the grooveddrum. The washing liquor is constantlycirculated through the spray pipes withinthe compartment by means of a pump.This pro-duces a cross-flow and a heavy-flowing liquor film on both sides of thefabric. This ensures optimum mass trans-fer and removal of the substances beingwashed off.

BEN-WASH

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TRIKOFLEX LT-Swith intermediate squeezer

TRIKOFLEX LT-DSwith intermediate squeezer

TRIKOFLEX LT-Vcombined retention and washing compartment

TRIKOFLEX LT-Vcombined retention and washing compartmentwith impregnation

High washing performanceWashing efficiency has been tremendous-ly increased by creating a multiple cham-ber system with two liquor circulationsand three concentration levels with coun-ter-flow.

The advantages at a glance■ Universal washing compartments for

knitted and woven pile fabrics■ Optimal shrinkage results ensured by

low tension fabric guidance and short fabric runs

■ Variable drive techniques■ Controllable expander settings with the

possibility of fabric specific adjust-ments

■ Optimal structure and volume develop-ment due to variable re-circulating capacities

The variety of compartments allows you flexibility

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The advantages at a glance■ Combined retention and washing

compartment■ Critical fabrics, e.g. POT (Partial

Orientated Fibres), can also be tight strand guided through the dwelling compartment

■ Flexible dwelling times in the range of 0.5–4 min

■ Separated liquor circulations betweenretention and washing section

■ Counter-flow system■ Relaxation of the fabric due to tension

free plaiting

TRIKOFLEX LT-V – Retention and relaxation

BEN-WASH

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Swivelling compensator and spiral expander in front of the squeezing unit

Decurler in front of the squeezing unit Spiral expander with delivery plate to squeezing unit

Flexibility in the concept

Combined retention and washing compartmentReaction compartments are needed fortemperature and time-depending wash and retention processes such as, demineralization, reductive cleaning, oxidation, neutralization or fastness washing.

Benninger has developed the combinedretention and washing compartment TRIKOFLEX LT-V. The fabric is rinsed viaspray lines on to the roller bed. Depend-ing on the process requirement the fabricis under a constant spray of water andchemical liquor. Subsequent to the pre-determined reaction time, the fabric isexpanded and guided over a short dis-tance to the TRIKOFLEX washing drumfor direct rinsing or washing. TheTRIKOFLEX LT-V compartment can beselected with one or two liquor circula-tions. For reaction processes the entrysection can be equipped with an impreg-nation trough and intermediate squeezer.

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REACTA – Modular steamer and retention accumulator

Washing Impregnation Steaming WashinDemineralization

BEN-BLEACH

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Crucially important to any continuous pretreatment range is the steamer. Here especially therefore, economy and flexibilitymust be combined in optimum fashion. The building block system devised by Benninger enables a steamer ideally suitedto industrial requirements to be assembledfor any duty from proven basic modules. Alternatively used as a steamer, or retentionaccumulator for soaping, with spray watercirculation and saturated steam atmosphere.

Fabric inletThe cloth is let into the steamer through a steam lock, guided over big drive rollersand brought at once to the reaction tempe-rature.

Crease free operation is a matter of course

Chemical metering stationThe chemical station consists, for each chemical, of feed pump, inductive flow-meter and control valve. This means thatthe reproducibility of the chemical meter-ing figures is ensured.

Metering of the chemicals in ml/kg basedon the fabric throughput means that a de -fined quantity is added. The impregnationsystem is self controlling. If more water isbrought in with the fabric then the additionof water – controlled on level – is reduced.

The following is entered at the display:■ Fabric weight per running meter■ Initial filling (in liters according to total

volume)■ Top-up recipe (in ml/kg)

Steamer draw-off sectionWhile still in the steamer, the fabric isdrawn off over a short distance to theappropriate guiding elements, expandedand centred fed into the steamer outlet

with water lock to secure steam tight-ness. Both countercurrent and high tem-perature generate the high washingeffect. Liquor separation is created by thepulling device at the exit.

g Neutralization Washing

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The DIMENSA technology is pre -destinated for the treatment of knittedgoods. The DIMENSA masters the specialstructure, the load and tensioninstability of knitted fabrics brilliantly.The DIMENSA is completed with theTRIKOFLEX drum washing machine.

DIMENSA – Technology successful in the knitted sector

The combination of chain and chainless makes the differenceThe influence on the stitch and walecounts can be attributed to the uniquecombination of the chainless and chainprinciples.

Precisely defined fabric tension is en -sured through all stages of the processby the ratio metered AC drive.

The stabilizing process is initiated by thestenter section. Correction of the stitchesover the entire width takes place by con-stant stretching.Simultaneously the lye concentration isre duced. Complete neutralization takesplace in the TRIKOFLEX washing com-partments.

Dimensions known before processing is finishedThe results after mercerizing on theDIMENSA are, with regard to the dimen-sions, representative of the final product.Deviations from the nominal figures canbe corrected immediately in the stenterframe.■ Constant number of wale counts■ No stitch differences over the width

and length■ Elongation to +15%, shrinkage to

–10% can be compensated

Uniform number of wales across the whole widthStitch thickening in the selvedge zones can cause dark selvedges which, in turn,lead to quality loss and even rejects. Onthe DIMENSA this condition is practically non-existent:■ Because the lye in the selvedges is

extracted methodically■ Because the fabric is positively guided

throughout the stabilizing zone

That is why there is no shrinkage in the stabilizing compartment and no thicken-ing of the wales in the selvedge zones.

Knitted goods – even single jersey – are run onthe DIMENSA opened, without gumming theselvedges.

The versatility of the DIMENSA permits every textile result concerning themercer izing effect. This is achieved byobjective se lec tion of the process para-meters such as:■ Lye temperature■ Lye concentration■ Lye reaction time■ Fabric lengthwise and crosswise

tension

The thus optimized process provides thebest mercerizing effect with savings inlye, water and steam.

BEN-DIMENSA

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The mercerization process results in highquality knit goods characterised byincreased dimensional stability and luster.Furthermore, colour intensification of upto 50% can be achieved. The resultingdyestuff savings can be between30–40%. These factors make the DIMEN-SA mercer-izing process economicallyand ecologically viable.

Mercerizing processes that partially or totally allow free shrinkage in the dwellingand stabilizing zones also lead toimproved dyeing characteristics. Howev-er, they do not exploit the full potentialwith regards to dimensional stability.

DIMENSA – or enhanced fabric appearance and quality

Rel

ativ

e sw

ellin

g

Iod

ine

Sor

ptio

n m

g/g

hot

Optimum

cold

Grey fabric

Time (sec)

Investigations by Bechter reveal that with an impregnation concentration of28–30°Bé‚ or 250–300 g NaOH 100% perlitre (215–240 g NaOH 100% per kg) thereis no significant increase of iodine sorption or dyestuff uptake. This means optimal mercerization is accomplished with a concentration of 220–240 g NaOH 100%per kg cloth on the fabric.

Relative swelling of cotton vs. temperature Comparison hot-cold mercerization

■ Faster caustic soda penetration,speedier swelling

■ High swelling uniformity, no ring mercerizing

■ Better dye penetration■ Smoother cloth appearance■ Softer handle

■ Shorter impregnation times■ No cooling needed for mercerizing■ Maximum squeezing action at

infeed squeeze■ Lower investment cost through

shorter impregnation sections

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Chainless principle Chain principle Chainless principle

The impregnation zone of the DIMENSA for knit goods consists of an impregnationtrough. Utilising mercerization agents for grey fabric is essential due to the shortim pregnation zone. A plate expander infront of the squeezer uncurls the selved -ges. This facilitates an even squeezingeffect, to the outermost edges, whichremoves the impregnation liquor to thecorrect mercerization concentration of220–240 g of caustic soda per kg fabric.

Strong shrinkage across the width due tothe fabric distances is of no consequenceat this stage, but is in actual fact part of the procedural concept. The merceriza-tion process is completed in the subse-quent dwelling zone. An integrated sten-ter section stretches the stitches acrossthe width, which compensates the shrink-age in the impregnation zone.

In the parallel field, the set fabric dimen-sions are stabilised by spraying on hotweak lye. In order to achieve the bestpossible dimensional stability and mini -mise residual shrinkage, the machine isusually run with overfeed whenprocessing knit wear. The stretching fieldalso offers the unique opportunity to

DIMENSA – Mercerizing range for knit goods

correct thickenings at the edges. Edgethicke ning changes the appearance ofthe stitch structure and causes variationsin colour (usually lighter). Benninger hasdeveloped a special edge stretching sec-tion control unit which is placed on thetensioning chain. Any thickening whicharises at the edges is corrected and thenmemorized by spraying on diluted caus-tic soda. This particularly affects articleswith a high level of lateral elasticity, suchas Ripp and Interlook articles, but alsoarticles containing a mixture of Elastan.

The subsequent stabilizing compartmentreduces the caustic soda to a degree thatenables fabric plaiting with out further consequences.

The TRIKOFLEX drum washing compart-ments, which can be either attached incontinuation or operated separately,round off the complete concept of lowtension treatment of knit goods.

Impregnation Dwelling Stabilizing

BEN-DIMENSA

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The Küsters DyePad station with itsflexible S-Roll Technology can dyewoven and knitted goods, in repro-ducible and premium quality. Moreoverthe Küsters DyePad offers great flexi-bility due to the correction potential ofthe two S-Rollers. This means anattractively priced, simple to operate,reliable and economical Padder stationable for diverse handling.

Versatility of the Küsters S-Roll Owing to its design and construction,Küsters high efficiency padders meet allpractical requirements for application inmodern processing. Different feedingsystems, squeezing roll coverings, troughshapes as well as expanders and sprea -ders allow a variety of woven and knittedgoods to be treated.

A uniform liquor application over the fab-ric width, as well as a selective liquorapplication to the selvedge – center –selvedge zone can be easily set, repro-duced and program controlled if required.

This may become necessary owing tovarying absorption capacity, fabric ten-sion, weft distortion and humidity (at thebeginning of the process) as well as faultsarising in subsequent processes, likedyestuff migration at the selvedges du -ring drying.

System benefits■ The right concept for every kind of fab-

ric by appropriate roll coverings, troughdesign, as well as expanding andspreading devices

■ Uniform linear liquor application by twodeflection-controlled rolls throughoutthe entire batch

■ If requested, varied liquors or chemi-cals can be applied over the length andwidth of the batch and also pro-grammed via the PLC, by an adjustablesqueezing effect with one deflectioncompensating roll

■ Reproducibility of all dyestuff andchemical applications

■ No cambering of the squeeze rollers■ Uniform squeezing pressure within the

fabric area including thick and narrowwebs (without selvedge pressure)

■ No side-to-center shading, due tosmooth treatment of the selveges

■ Simple operation and control due toclear design

Advantages■ Low energy consumption■ Short return on investment■ Completely reliable and maintenance-

free■ Reduction of setting-up-time through

an automatic quick cleaning system

Correction diagram

New Küsters S-Roll with double cor-rection potential ■ Greater flexibility for the dye producer■ Enhanced reproducibility with elec-

tronic pressure control

Inte

rnal

rol

ler

pre

ssur

e (b

ar)

Shaft pressure (bar)

New deflection rangeConventional deflection range

Küsters DyePad

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The S-Roll as the heart of the overallsystem enables accurate reproducibleresults due to its user defined capabili-ties, to define pressure applicationpossibilities to the two S-Rolls. Bymeans of an intelligent software sup-port system, a uniform dyestuff appli-cation is guaranteed, this means versa-tile requirements in relation to qualityand material can be achieved.

The deflection-controlled roll for constant resultsKüsters Padders are equipped with thewell-known “Swimming Roll” (S-Roll)Küsters Technology. With controlled li -near pressure the deflection-controlledrolls achieve a specific squeezing nip forevery fabric.

Sealing concept of the S-Roll

Linear pressure between two S-Rolls absolutelyeven across the full width

Insight of the S-Roll

Pressure reduced at center of rolls Pressure raised on one side of the rolls

Pressure increased at center of rolls

Technical data 222.12 222.18

Number of S-Rolls 2 2

Working width (mm) 1600 – 2600 2400 – 3600

Diameter of S-Rolls (mm) 220 300

Max. linear pressure (N/mm) 15 – 50 12 – 50

Küsters S-Roll Technology

Küsters DyePad

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Modular design and constructionenables all practical requirements forapplication in modern processing. Allconcepts are aligned to supply eco-nomically and technologically, the bestpossible solution for our customers.

The determining parameters whenpadding knit goods are■ Dye liquor temperature■ Pressure line of the padder

(correction left, centre, right)■ Fabric absorbency■ Fabric tension

While the first three points pose no newproblems for knits in comparison towoven, the issue of “fabric tension” mustbe approached with care. Differences inthe fabric tension can lead to dye devia-tions of up to 30%.

This is the reason why the KüstersDyePad for knits defines an accurate andconstant fabric transport, all the way fromthe infeed where the fabric is guided overa segment roller right up to batching.

A constant fabric tension is thereforemaintained during the entire treatmentprocess, from dye application to squeez-ing procedure. Low tension batchingtakes place via transferring rollers aftercontrolled squeezing of the knit goods.The batching trolley is moved pneumati-cally along the movable platform as roll

diameter increases, thereby safeguardingconstant winding conditions.

A special displacement element permitslow liquor contents and accordingly fastliquor exchange. Furthermore the lowliquor content minimises the dyestuff losswhen changing the dye bath. For specificapplications the fabric can be guidedthrough a horizontal nip.

Trough or nip dyeing

Küsters DyePad

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Dissolving station

Chemicals

Contidos SF 3

Dye padder

Dye preparation

Contidos SF dosing station

The Contidos SF dosing station gua -rantees accurate reproduction at a pre-mium quality as well as consistentprocess management. The system effi-ciently controls the entire dyeingprocess through automatic monitoringand online dosing.

Modern concept for Cold Pad Batch(CPB) reactive dyeingThe complexities of the textile chal-lenges, require custom-made conceptsand innovative detailed solutions, regard-ing construction and procedure.

Mastering the CPB reactive dyeingprocess goes way beyond the flexingcompensation of the rollers and their cor-rection possibilities. The target of the dyeproducer is to have an accurately repro-ducible process management. This isaccomplished by temperature manage-ment and innovative dosing concepts.

Temperature managementSeason and geographically independent,constant and reproducible applicationand batching temperature.

Dosing to measure■ Online dosing for CPB dyeing with

padder ■ Production of dye liquor on the basis of

dye solution and auxiliaries dispensedseparately

■ Dye solution and auxiliaries are blen -ded homogeneously in a mixer and fedinto the padder

■ Dosing of each individual componentaccording to a formula in ml per liter ofdye liquor

■ Metering of liquor pick-up■ Record of consumption■ Automatic operation mode■ High accuracy in dye liquor production,

with automatic control of dosing toler-ances

■ Simple and rapid color changes■ Small loss of dye liquor and short rins-

ing-times in the case of color changes■ No preparation of auxiliary baths■ Dosing capacity according to a recipe

and production capacity■ PLC control with operator terminal■ Link to process control system■ Dissolving and preparation unit available

Overview Contidos SF dosing station

Single component dosing unit

Küsters DyePad

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STARTER KIT – Starter concept to open width treatment of knit goods

The STARTER KIT makes it possible tobegin the gradual change from the tubu-lar to open width treatment of knit goods.Included primarily in the “Starter pack-age” are a DyePad and a small TRIKOFLEX washing installation.

The TRIKOFLEX takes care of the pre-wash and the washing after CPB bleach-ing and reactive dyeing.

A cost efficient concept, designed for pro-duction of 3–5 tons per day. The processflow and open width treatment result inhigh reproducibility and low steam, waterand energy consumption. In addition,quality is increased since rope creases,hairiness, and pilling or micro-pilling areavoided. Pre-washing allows trouble-freethermosetting of delicate articles with ahigh Elastane content. There is no dangerof crease fixation during thermosetting. Atthe same time, smoke emissions do notpollute the environment.

The following table shows the STARTERKIT process of open width treatment ofknit goods containing Elastane.

Open width treatment STARTER KIT Rope process route

Hose cutting Hose cutting

CPB cold bleaching Thermo-setting

Washing of cold bleaching Sewing togetherTRIKOFLEX

Stenter drying and Bleaching in JETthermosetting

CPB dyeing Dyeing in JET

Washing after CPB Hose opening/cutting

Drying on stenter Drying on stenter

KNIT-LINE

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BEN-WASH Post-treatment of reactive dyed or printed fabrics

BEN-BLEACH Continue Pre-treatment with demineralization and bleaching

BEN-DIMENSA MS-2 Combination of chainless system and stenter frame

KNIT-LINE machine concepts

BEN-WASH Post-treatment of vat and reactive dyed or printed fabrics

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Benninger can now satisfy the ever changing demands for flexibility of thefashion industry and of quality consciouscustomers by being able to offer suitablemachinery for the open width processing of knitted fabrics which ensures highestquality. In addition it must be mentionedthat apart from the improved quality, openwidth finishing, as opposed to the classi-cal rope form treatment by exhaust methods, also promises lower variableproduction costs up to 30%. The engage -ment of Benninger in relation to knittedgoods will generate in long terms newstandards for quality oriented textile com-panies and will make them competitive.

You can feel it’s Benninger

The Swiss company Benninger has been the textile industrys leading partner across the globe for one hundred and fifty years with global branches and service representatives. Benninger develops and manufactures textile finishingand cord production ranges as well as providing complete system solutions. As the market leader Benninger will continue to rely on its comprehensive process know-how in order to be able to offer high-quality installations withexcellent customer service.

Benninger AG9240 Uzwil, SwitzerlandT +41 71 955 85 85F +41 71 955 87 47benswiss@benningergroup.com

www.benningergroup.com

Benninger Zell GmbHSchopfheimerstrasse 8979669 Zell i.W., GermanyT +49 7625 131 0F +49 7625 131 298bengermany@benningergroup.com

Benninger ZittauKüsters Textile GmbHGerhart-Hauptmann-Strasse 1502763 Zittau, GermanyT +49 3583 83 0F +49 3583 83 303kt@kuesters-textile.com

Benninger AGMoscow OfficeLeningradsky pr-t 72Bld. 4, Office 802125315 Moscow, RussiaT +7 495 721 18 99F +7 495 721 30 84benrussia@benningergroup.com

Benninger India Ltd.415/416 & 417 Sunshine PlazaDadar (East)Mumbai 400 014, IndiaT +91 22 4322 7600 F +91 22 4322 7601 benindia@benningergroup.com

Benninger Textile Machinery Co. Ltd.Room 904, Tower ACity Center of Shanghai100 Zun Yi RoadShanghai 200051, P.R. ChinaT +86 21 6237 1908F +86 21 6237 1909benchina@benningergroup.com

Locations

Head officeUzwil, Switzerland

SubsidiariesMumbai, IndiaShanghai, ChinaZell, GermanyZittau, Germany

Representative officeMoscow, Russia