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Our Home from Scratch LLC Page 1 CabinetsfromScratch.com
Kitchen Upper Cabinet:
Single Door
by
Cabinets from Scratch
Our Home from Scratch LLC Page 2 CabinetsfromScratch.com
Disclaimer Our Home from Scratch LLC and its legal owners cannot be held responsible for
any loss, damage, disappointment, injury or death resulting from following the
procedures or techniques described in these plans. Our Home from Scratch LLC
and its legal owners assume no risk and cannot be held responsible for any misuse
of these plans either directly or indirectly. They make no statements as to the
weight or strength capacity of the item described in these plans.
These plans may contain errors and Our Home from Scratch LLC and its legal
owners cannot be held responsible for any error. No guarantee is made as to the
quality of any product that is described herein.
Always use appropriate Personal Protection Equipment when working with tools
and exercise caution if taking any action associated with these plans.
Attempt at your own risk. Some woodworking skills are required. Sorry if that’s a
bummer.
This procedure contains affiliate links.
Distribution Policy By downloading these plans you consent to this distribution policy. These plans
are not to be distributed in anyway without the express consent of Our Home
from Scratch LLC or its legal owners. The individual pictures or procedures
contained herein are also not to be copied or shared.
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Introduction
These plans for an upper kitchen cabinet are nearly identical to the kitchen
cabinets I built from scratch in my first home in Philadelphia. They design has
been updated to include better joinery methods and the door is overlay instead of
inset, which makes the project easier for entry level woodworkers.
The cabinet box is made from 3/4” thick plywood and includes a 3/4" thick
back board. While this thicker back board makes the cabinet heavier and slightly
more expensive, it also adds strength, rigidity and reduces the different types of
plywood you’ll need to purchase and manage. It’s the same approach I took in
my kitchen cabinets.
Feel free to add additional fasteners to this project if the sides of the
cabinet will be between other cabinets or walls.
If you get stuck on any particular part of these woodworking plans, feel free
to email me at [email protected] with any questions. For full
cabinet building training, visit CabinetsfromScratch.com for more information on
our comprehensive video training course.
I hope you enjoy the challenge of building this project.
R,
John Gerard
Our Home from Scratch LLC Page 4 CabinetsfromScratch.com
Getting Started These woodworking plans will take you step by step through the build of a
kitchen upper cabinet with a single door. The first thing you should do is read
through these procedures to familiarize yourself with the materials, tools and skill
requirements necessary to complete them.
Tools The tools and miscellaneous supplies I used for this project include the
following, some of which are optional:
1. Table Saw with 60 tooth saw blade
2. Miter Saw (also with 60 tooth saw blade)
3. Pneumatic Brad Nail Gun with Pancake Compressor
4. Pocket Screws
5. Dado Blade Set
6. Router with 23/32” cutting bit
7. Cordless Drill
8. Wood Glue
9. 3/4" Long Brad Nails
10. K-Body Clamps
Dimensions This cabinet is designed to the following dimensions:
1. Width: 18”
2. Height: 42”
3. Depth: 12”
This version of the cabinet has a 3/4" overlay door. Feel free to modify the
plans to meet your needs. A customizable version of these plans in MS Excel is
available to Cabinets from Scratch subscribers.
Our Home from Scratch LLC Page 5 CabinetsfromScratch.com
Material: Listed below in Table 1 is a list of all the lumber you’ll need to build one
cabinet. All of this lumber should be available at your local large hardware store
(Lowe’s, Home Depot, True Value, etc.). Avoid softwoods like pine for this
project. Use oak or maple for stain-grade projects. Choose poplar lumber with
birch plywood for paint-grade cabinets.
TABLE 1: LUMBER PURCHASE LIST
Item Description Width Length (in) Qty
1 3/4" Thick Birch or Oak Plywood 48” 96” 1
2 3/4” Thick Poplar or Oak Hardwood 2 ½” 96” 3
3 1/2" Thick Birch or Oak Plywood 24” 48” 1
Hardware:
You’ll also need to purchase the following material to complete your
cabinet build.
1. Shelf Pins
2. Door Pulls (you pick)
3. 3/4" Overlay Hinges
Preparation:
To begin this project, you’ll need to take your purchased lumber and cut
out all of the parts listed in Table 2. Plywood parts should be cut to their final size
using a combination of a table saw and a circular saw. Refer to the plywood cut
sheets at the end of these plans
Hardwood components however, should be cut to their final lengths, but
not their final widths. All hardwood boards should be cut slightly wider than their
final width on the table saw then brought down to their final width using a jointer
or thickness planer. If you skip this process and simply cut your hardwood boards
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down to their final widths using the table saw you’ll end up with boards that have
a very rough-cut and uneven edge. It won’t look as clean or professional.
TABLE 2: CABINET PARTS LIST
Hardwood Cabinet Parts
Item Name Length (in.) Width (in.) Thk (in.) Qty. Material
1 Stiles 42 2 3/4 2 Oak or Poplar
2 Top Rail 14 2 3/4 1 Oak or Poplar
3 Bottom Rail 14 2 3/4 1 Oak or Poplar
4 Shelf Front 15-3/4 1 3/4 3 Oak or Poplar
Hardwood Door Parts
Item Name Length (in.) Width (in.) Thk (in.) Qty. Material
5 Door Stiles 39-1/2 2 3/4 2 Oak or Poplar
6 Door Rails 17 2 3/4 2 Oak or Poplar
Cabinet Plywood Parts
Item Name Length (in.) Width (in.) Thk (in.) Qty. Material
7 Sides 42 11-1/2 3/4 2 Matching Ply
8 Bottom 16-3/4 10-5/8 3/4 1 Matching Ply
9 Top 16-3/4 10-5/8 3/4 1 Matching Ply
10 Back 42 16-3/4 3/4 1 Matching Ply
11 Shelves 15-3/4 10 3/4 3 Matching Ply
Plywood Door Parts
Item Name Length (in.) Width (in.) Thk (in.) Qty. Material
12 Door Panel 36 16 1/2 2 Matching Ply
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Machining:
With all of your lumber cut to their final dimensions, we can begin
machining the lumber to add grooves and pocket screw holes, which will allow us
to assemble the cabinet.
Face Frame
Let’s start with the face frame. Lay out all of your face frame boards down
on a workbench. Evaluate each board to determine which side looks best. Using
a pencil, lightly mark the better side so you know what side is which. Flip all of
the boards over. Drill two pocket screw holes on both ends of the backsides of
the Top Rail and the Bottom Rail. Refer to Figure 1 for an illustration of pocket
screw hole locations.
The stiles then get a 1/4” deep by 23/32” wide groove down the length of
the back. These grooves will allow the cabinet box to recess and attach to the
face frame during assembly. This groove needs to be located 1/4” in from the
outside edge of the stiles.
Figure 1 illustrates what the back of the face frame will look like once
assembled. You don’t need to assemble it at this point.
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Figure 1: Face Frame Back with Pocket Screw Holes and Stile Grooves
Door
Moving onto the door, you’ll need to expose a 3/4” long tongue (or tenon)
at the ends of each door rail. For a clear instruction on how to accomplish this
using a table saw, watch this YouTube video from my channel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTwRxyHVHFg
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Once the tongues are exposed on the door rails, you can cut a 1/4” wide by
1/4” deep groove down the middle of each door part. Next, raise the table saw
blade to 3/4” high and make a 2-1/2” long groove on the ends of the door stiles.
This will allow the tongues on the rails to plug into the stiles. Test for fit.
For another example of this technique, you can watch this YouTube video
from my channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyWnPv8DGx0
At this point, you can cut a 1/4” deep by 1/4” wide rabbit all along the edge
of the door center panels. You should be able to assemble doors dry without any
glue to test its fit up. Make adjustments where necessary.
Plywood Boxes
Machining the plywood box will require adding 23/32” grooves in a few
places. First, we’ll add a groove in one of the side boards for the back board.
Using a router table with a 23/32” cutting bit or a 23/32" dado blade stack on
your table saw, make a groove 3/8” deep down the length of the side board and
locate it so it leaves a 1/4" space between the groove edge and the back edge of
the sideboard. Refer to Figure 2 for reference.
Next, you’ll need to add grooves in one of the side boards to receive the
top and bottom boards. Locate these 3/8” deep grooves so they leave a 3/4"
space between the groove edge and the top and bottom of the side boards
respectively. Refer to Figure 2 for reference.
You’ll need to repeat these cuts on the other side board, but make sure
they are a mirror opposite of the first side board. Figure 2 illustrates that
mirrored reference.
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Figure 2: Box Side Boards – Left and Right Side
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The back board will need one 23/32" wide by 3/8” deep groove 3/4” up
from the bottom edge and a second groove 3/4" down from the top edge. See
Figure 3 for that image.
The bottom and top boards won’t need any modifications.
Figure 3: Back Board
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Assembly:
Using wood glue and 1-1/4” long pocket screws, assemble the face frame as
per Figure 1.
For the box assembly, dry fit the box components together first before
gluing the assembly together. The sides can be stood upright, while the back is
inserted into the grooves in each side. You can then insert the bottom and top
boards into the grooves in the sides. The bottom and top boards should fully seat
into the grooves in the back board and will be 1/4" recessed from the front edges
of the sides. Use clamps to help you keep the assembly together during dry fit. If
everything fits together well without glue, you can disassemble it and glue it
together.
Liberally apply a bead of wood glue into each groove before you re-
assemble. You can shoot in a 3/4" long brad nail at an angle into the joints to
keep the assembly together while you are clamping it up. Make sure to clamp the
assembly in multiple spots as you proceed.
At this point, you can also glue the face frame to the box assembly and
clamp both units together by applying a liberal bead of glue in the face fame
groove. Check to ensure the top of the face frame and the top of the box
assembly are flush. It might help to position the cabinet upside down on a
workbench to ensure they remain flush. Measure the cabinet from diagonal to
diagonal at the top of the cabinet to verify the cabinet is square. If it’s out of
square, use a long clamp over the longer corners and tighten it down until it
comes into square. Keep the cabinet clamped together overnight to make sure
the glue cures properly.
The door will go together similarly. Only apply glue to the tongues. You
don’t need to glue the center panel in, but you can if you want to since it’s made
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from plywood. Make sure the stiles ends are flush to the rails and clamp together
overnight.
The shelf front board can be attached to the plywood shelf board using glue
and brad nails.
For the door hinges, it’s best to simply follow the manufacturer’s
instructions provided with the hinges you purchase as they vary from
manufacturer to manufacturer. The door should be installed temporarily to
ensure fit and functionality then removed for finishing.
Finishing:
Before painting or staining, sand every surface lightly using 120-grit
sandpaper. Sand every surface again using 220-grit sandpaper and then wipe
clean with a clean rag. You can use a tack cloth and a rag with denatured alcohol
as well.
If you want to paint your cabinet, you should apply two coats of a primer
followed by two coats of your finish paint. It’s best to spray both applications
using an HVLP gun. You can use a shellac-based primer like BIN and a satin
lacquer for the final coat. If spraying your paint is not an option, you can use a
brush to apply your paint. Read more here about best practices and products for
painting cabinets:
http://www.ourhomefromscratch.com/2014/09/cabinet-painting-101/
If you plan to stain your cabinet, apply a pre-stain conditioner first to avoid
blotches. Follow that with your stain and then either a clear coat lacquer as a
topcoat or satin polyurethane. You should generally avoid anything glossier than
satin or eggshell.
After the finishing process is complete, you can re-assemble your cabinet
permanently by re-installing the door.
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Resources
That’s it. If you find any errors, have any suggestions for improvement or
any questions, drop me a line at [email protected]
Thanks and good luck!!