kitchen garden manual

KITCHEN GARDENER’S The

Handbook

Save the Children, IndiaHead Office | 1st & 2nd Floor, Plot No 91, Sector- 44, Gurgaon – 122003. INDIA

Telephone : (+91) 124 - 4752000www.savethechildren.in

This handbook is for new learners in the field of gardening at their home for growing fresh vegetables and fruits. With the help of team members of Save the Children, India, namely, Mr. Farhad Ali, Technical Advisor; Mr. Pradeep Nair; Ms. Tanvi Chauhan; Ms. Priyanka Shah, Kitchen Garden Consultant.

We owe our deep sense of gratitude to Mr. Shekhar Sethu, Director of Programmes; Mr. Sajit R. Menon, Deputy Programme Director and Ms. Sumita Kirti, Senior Manager for their leadership, guidance and dynamism wrapped up with enthusiasm, which have helped us with their technical guidance and support.

It would not have been possible to come up with this asset unless Mondelez India and Foundation Programme team would have not lend their hands for supporting Shubh Aarambh and taking it to the communities. We hope that the manual will help to establish the objectives of Kitchen Gardening to the Programme Implementers!

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Preface

Chapter : 1 Why do We Need a Kitchen Garden?

Chapter : 2 How do We Start a Kitchen Garden?

Chapter : 3 Learning How to Sow and Grow

Chapter : 4 Why it is Important to Care for Soil in the Kitchen Garden?

Chapter : 5 How do we Look After the Garden?

Chapter : 6 Yielding and Distribution of Vegetables

Appendix 1 Template of MoU Between Members Regarding Garden Maintenance and Vegetable Distribution

Appendix II Sowing Chart - Monthwise

Appendix IIITools for Gardening

Appendix IVStorage of Seeds

Chapter : 1

Why do We Need a Kitchen Garden?

Starting a Community Kitchen Garden

Having a home garden means:

Home grown vegetables are:

A kitchen garden provides an avenue for a community to grow its own food. The community can ensure that the food it consumes has been grown organically (without chemical pesticides or fertilizers that have adverse health effects), and is fresh and seasonal. A garden can ensure a steady supply of fruits and vegetables in a community's diet throughout the year. And if the produce exceeds the consumption of the community, they may sell it and invest the revenue in other public spaces!

In addition to serving as a source of food for the community, community gardens have several other benefits. Community gardens promote physical fitness and recreation, improve air quality and are aesthetically pleasing. They increase cooperation and collaboration between members of the community by providing them with a common goal as well as a space for face-to-face interaction. Additionally, a garden is beneficial for school children in a number of ways. It teaches them how to grow vegetables and other food crops. It educates them on nutrition and health. It increases their ability to interact and socialize with others. A garden can also help children manage anxiety and stress, and become more creative.

The participatory approach increases a sense of ownership. To ensure effective participation, every garden should have a good leadership. A leader sets rules and etiquettes for the garden in order to create a friendly environment where members may work side-by-side and make decisions in consultation with each other.

A community may have one or many of the following objectives listed below as its goal for starting a community garden:

l Promote the production of nutrient-rich fruits and vegetables

l Enable people to make better-informed choices about the food they consume

l Improve healthy food choices for children and adolescents at and after school, at colleges and universities as well as at recreation facilities

l Increase food security and access to healthy foods, especially fruit and vegetables.

1. Low cost, healthy diet.

2. Food all year long.

3. A chance to make some money.

l Fresher

l Healthier

l Less expensive and more nutritious

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The Kitchen Gardener’s Handbook The Kitchen Gardener’s Handbook

PREFACE

Nutrition and education are key to a child's development. Even though national and multi-national agencies have prioritized nutrition and education—for example, by including them in the Millennium Development Goals—there is still much work to be done. Hunger and malnutrition plague millions of children all over the world leading to decreased physical activity, diminished cognitive abilities, and a reduced resistance to infections. It adversely affects academic achievement and may increase drop-out rates. In the long term, chronic malnutrition decreases individual potential and productivity, incomes and national development. Thus, the social and economic well-being of a nation depends on its children and youth.

One needs to invest in nutrition and education to break the cycle of poverty and malnutrition. “Shubh Arambh” aims to fulfil the nutritional and educational needs of children and their families through creating community gardens and using them as tools for learning and enhanced nutrition. These gardens should be envisaged as a means to improve nutrition and education rather than as a source of income or bulk food.

Shubh Arambh is funded by Mondelez and is implemented in four states: Madhya Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and Maharashtra. It aims to strengthen the resilience of children by focusing on their health and nutritional needs. Shubh Arambh encourages schools, Anganwadi members and communities to create 'learning' gardens. These gardens should be moderately-sized (so that they can be easily managed by students, teachers and parents), and should include a variety of vegetables and fruits. Communities could link home gardens with school garden to facilitate the exchange of knowledge and experience between the school and the community. Such strategies have the merit of sustainability: they create healthy dietary habits over the long run, and put food choices into the hands of the consumer.

This manual is intended to assist school teachers, parents and communities in developing gardens. We hope that this manual will prove useful for all those who wish to start or improve community gardens, and through it help children learn and grow.

If we start a vegetable garden,

we can grow, prepare and eat our

own fruits

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Chapter : 2

How do We Start a Kitchen Garden?

Before a community starts a kitchen garden, it must consider carefully several factors. It should identify land, key crops, resources needed, and roles and responsibilities of members. It should plan and schedule activities such as preparing beds, planting seeds, harvesting, etc. and then mobilize resource needed to execute these activities. Communities can break down the process of starting a kitchen garden into the following phases:

There are many factors to keep in mind when selecting a site. Below is a list of important points to keep in mind:

• Does it get at least 4-5 hours of direct sunlight per day during the summer, rains & winter?

• Is there access to water?

• Is the ground relatively flat?

• Is the site close to the people who plan to use it?

• Is the site visible from the house or pedestrian areas? A visible site will be safer and attract more neighbourhood support.

• Can a tractor/soil trucks gain access to the lot?

• Is the soil safe for gardening? Test the soil for contaminants. If the site is contaminated, it will require raised beds and fresh soil.

• What is the site being used for presently? Is a garden compatible with the other current uses?

• Is it known who owns the lot? Permission will need to be secured from the landowner to have a community garden there.

• Will the site likely still be available in years to come? It is good to have a space where the garden can grow for multiple years.

• Does the site have any existing wind breaks to protect plants?

• Does the site need to be cleared before it can become a garden? • Is the land free from rodents & other pests?

When visiting potential sites, be prepared to draw simple site maps to help in the selection process. The more information that is gathered about potential sites, the easier it will be to select the garden and to design the garden layout. Some significant Garden Site Map Characteristics are mentioned below:

• Sun/shade patterns

• Wind patterns

• Water availability

• Drainage patterns

• Changes in elevation (slope)

• Soil conditions and quality

• Existing trees

• Existing buildings

• Existing structures

1. Installationa) Selection of the garden site and area

Why do we need a vegetablegarden?

Read this manual tolearn how to grow thefood your family needs for food security

Grow our ownvegetables?....how

Great Idea!! Besides, I heard that vegetables are good for children

We don’t have much money and our family needs food to eat. Why don’t we grow our own vegetables

A vegetable garden has many benefits:

a) It provides a variety of food sufficient for the whole family all year round or for several months.

b) It improves income over the long term through the sale of vegetables.

c) It improves or maintains the whole family well nourished.

d) It strengthens family bonds.

e) It enables food to be grown safely and healthily.

f) It promotes diversity of cultivation, in vegetables, fruit trees, legumes and poultry.

• Existing fences

• Paved areas

• Space to accommodate future plans for expansion

Organize volunteer members of kitchen garden to clear the site by removing debris and other unwanted materials. You may need to organize a bulk garbage pick-up with your municipal collection, or a trip to the local dump to remove materials from the site. It is important to have the soil tested before planting the garden to determine the soil quality and assess whether raised beds are required. If garden plots are going to be in the ground, it is a good idea to rent a rototiller to till the soil and add any amendments required based on the soil test. Depending on the site's conditions, the group may also need to level the ground, and install water lines and a drainage system. Speak with a local horticultural group or gardening centre for advice on what is required for the site at hand. Some points to keep in mind:

• Allow for convenient water access

• Ensure physical accessibility (allow for comfortable mobility for all participants)

• Provide space for required structures (storage, rain barrels, greenhouses, etc.)

• Orient plots for optimal growing conditions (direct sunlight, wind breaks, etc.)

• Provide a composting area

• Consider fencing needs (e.g. to deter wildlife) Make the garden visible (e.g. post adequate signage)

• Incorporate rest and play areas, and ensure access to washrooms

Once the site has been cleared and prepared, it is time to build and install required garden infrastructure. The infrastructure that is installed will depend on the garden design and needs of the group. Keep in mind that not all of these are required to be completed in the first year, and that projects can be added as the garden develops. Some of the items you will want to consider installing include:

• Easily accessible raised beds;

• Pathways and ramps;

• Composting bins;

• Fences and gates;

• Collaborative actions in gardening

Community members should work in conjunction with local horticulturists and farmers to decide which plants to grow. Several factors can influence this decision such as:

• Nutritional and economic value

• Easy availability of seeds

• Accommodation to the local climate and soil

• Resistance to pests & insects

• Yield

Establish guidelines for the garden through consultation with gardeners, committees, and other key stakeholders such as the landowner. Garden guidelines are an excellent way to ensure that everyone

b) Ground Preparation

c) Build and Install Garden Infrastructure

d) Deciding What to Grow

e) Establishing Garden Guidelines

understands how the garden will operate and what is expected of participants. They should include information about health and safety while working in the garden in addition to guidelines for working with others, sharing space, and treating fellow gardeners with respect. Additionally, guidelines provide a place to record procedures to ensure that every year new volunteers and participants know how to open and close the garden and run activities throughout the growing season. Information that is only passed on by word of mouth can be lost, hence recording it in the guidelines will store it for future years. Generally, community garden guidelines highlight and elaborate on the following important areas:

1. Volunteer and participant responsibilities.

2. Agreements and other forms;

3. Safe handling of tools, materials, and fertilizers & pesticides;

4. Garden procedures

5. Important contacts

6. Task List for In-House Gardeners & Volunteers (could include)

• At the end of the gardening season, all dead plants and non-plant materials (string, wire, wood, metal, plastic, etc.) must be removed and disposed of properly and all gardens left neat and tidy. Ensure your garden is cleaned-up by________________.

• Pick up litter when you see it.

• Please put weeds and dead plants into the compost bin provided. Any diseased plants or seedy or invasive weeds are to be bagged and put in the trash so as not to contaminate the gardens.

• Do not apply anything to or pick anything from another person's plot without their approval.

• Please do not leave the water on unattended. When finished gardening for the day, please roll up the hose at the faucet area, return tools to the shed and lock the shed before leaving the garden.

• Please supervise children in the garden.

7. Code of Conduct (Sample)

• Smoking and chewing tobacco is not allowed.

• Pets, drugs (including alcohol), fires are not allowed.

• For your safety, only garden during daylight hours. Consider gardening in pairs or keeping a cell phone nearby if it makes you feel more comfortable.

• Report theft, vandalism and unusual activities to the garden co-leaders.

• Use common courtesy, be considerate of your gardening neighbors and enjoy the garden!

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Chapter : 3

Learning How to Sow and Grow

Before getting your hands dirty in the garden, take a moment to read about different kinds of seeds, and the processes of germination and transplantation required to turn seeds into saplings and then into plants.

Hybrid seeds are produced by companies through careful pollination of two specific varieties. Normally, this highly selective plant breeding is done to bring together two traits in each of the chosen varieties so that the resulting seed has both of the traits. Non-hybrid seeds are also called open pollinated seeds or heirloom seeds. Non-hybrid seeds come from plants that are naturally pollinated. Some of these varieties have been around for centuries. Non-hybrid seeds will produce plants whose seeds will produce more plants that look the same as the parent plant.

Hybrid seeds yield a greater produce of fruits and vegetables, grow faster and are more resilient to pests and diseases. Hybrid plants are physically uniform. This is advantageous for farmers who harvest with machines, but for small-greenhouse gardeners picking by hand, this feature does not offer much benefit. On the other hand, hybrid seeds are more expensive and require exacting horticulture. Moreover hybrids plants are usually infertile, requiring the purchase of new seeds every year.

Non-hybrid seeds exhibit a wonderful variety. For example, there are thousands of non-hybrid varieties of tomatoes, each with a unique flavour and taste. Many non-hybrid seeds are much more susceptible to disease and pests than their hybrid counterparts. Moreover, their yield is lower than hybrid seeds.

Buy seeds in labeled, sealed packages. The package label should specify : - Species , variety name, production year, germination ability, brand name or company. The seeds should not be more than one year old.

Materials Required : 50 Seeds, Cotton Wool, Paper Towels or Newspaper

Method:Place a tight layer of cotton wool on a plate and cover it with toilet paper. Add water to dampen it and remove any excess water.

Place the seeds on the wet paper in an orderly fashion. Moisten the paper every day. Keep the plate inside the House in a warm place.

a) Learn about Seeds: Non-hybrid seeds vs. Hybrid seeds:

If you have any doubt about the quality of seeds, you can run below mentioned tests:

Germination Test

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After six or seven days count the number of seeds that have germinated.

Results:

If 40 or more of the 50 seeds that were planted, have germinated it means that they have very good germinating power (higher than 80 percent).

If less than half have germinated and the plants are weak and growing unevenly,the seeds are weak and should not be used.

Now that you have selected which kind of plants to grow and have purchased the desired seeds, it is time to learn how to sow them. There are two ways to sow vegetable seeds:

The seeds are placed directly in the soil in which they will grow. This method is used for vegetables with large seeds that are resistant to changes in weather conditions. Vegetables which can be sowed directly are spinach, coriander, methi & root crops like potato, sweet potato, raddish, carrots. Direct sowing can be done in several ways:

l Broadcast : The seeds are scattered over the surface of the bed

l In line : The seeds are placed in rows at regular distances apart

l Drilling : 2 to 3 seeds are placed in small separate holes.

b) Learn how to sow seeds:

1) Direct Sowing :


How to Sow Seeds In-Line

Materials : Stakes, string, weeding hoe, labels.

Method:

Mark the sowing lines with a line of string. Attach a stake at each end to stretch the string across the bed.

• Trace the furrows using the string line as a guide.

• Find out how many seeds you need to sow for each vegetable.

• Distribute the seeds neatly in the furrow by hand.

• Place a stake with the name of the each vegetable sown on the furrow.

You can find out the sowing depth and the amount of seeds to sow for each vegetable in the chart at back of manual. Larger seeds are buried deeper and smaller seeds are sown nearer the surface(1 cm= half inch approx..) . Direct sowing in line is complete. Now the seeds have to be covered with mulch!

• Mulch is made with organic compost, or decomposed manure, combined with an equal amount of sand or soil.

• Once the sowed furrow has been covered with mulch, compress it gently with the back of the hoe.

• Finally, the bed has to be watered. The soil must be kept moist and therefore it must watered regularly without watering.

• Uses the land better, because the plants spend part of their life in a small space.

• There are fewer losses in seedbeds and less seeds are needed than with direct sowing.

• Protects the plants from the cold, the sun and the rain.

Seedlings can be started in fruit boxes, plastic containers, used tins, flowerpots etc. You can also have seedbeds in the soil if you have a lot of land and when you need many plants.

2) Indirect Sowing (Seedlings and Transplants): If the seeds that you want to sow are very small or if they take a long time to germinate, or need special care, it is preferable to sow them in seedling beds or seed trays. It can be used for following vegetables; gourds, chillies,onion and cabbage etc. Seedbeds have many advantages:

Not all vegetables can be transplanted. Check the chart at the back of this manual to see if the vegetables that you are planting are better suited to direct sowing or to transplanting.

How to Prepare the Seedbed ?

Step by Step:

2 - Crush the bigger lumps1- Shift the substrate (the mixture of soil, sand and organic compost)

3 - Fill the seedbed with substrate 4 - Remove any large particles

5 - Moisten the substrate 6 - Mix and Level 7 - Draw the furrows at therecommended depth anddistance

8 - Sow the seeds in the furrows at the recommended distance apart. Sow one seed per space

9 - Cover the furrows 10 - Cover with Newspaper, moisten and cover with more paper or dry grass without seeds

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How to Care for Seedlings?

Weeding

After you have finished preparing and sowing the seed bed, you need to:

• Check the seedbed twice a day.

• Remove the paper and dried grass as soon as the first seed germinates.

• Water daily with water and nutrient solution.

• Loosen the soil twice a week to avoid the formation of hard layers and development of algae.

• Earth up or put the substrate around the bottom of the plants to strengthen the development of roots.

• Water the shoots gently with a fine sprinkler

After a few days, the seeds will start to germinate. Watch OUT! Weeds will also start to grow. The weeds need to be removed because they compete with the seedlings for nutrients and water. Run a weeding tool between the furrows, about two centimetres into the soil. The soil loosens and then you can remove new weeds. It is better to weed when the surface is dry because the crust breaks more easily. If the seedlings are too close, you can thin them out.

IMPORTANT

• You should have a separate seedbed for each species. Don't mix the seeds of different vegetables. Water the plants carefully so that seedlings are not damaged.

• Water the seedbed daily. It is best to water it early in the morning so that the excess moisture evaporates during the day.

• Don't forget to remove the newspaper as soon as the first seeds germinate. Otherwise, you will have weak plants, which develop a long stalk and yellow leaves.

Ø 1) Before the seeds germinate, the seedbed should be covered with newspaper and dry grass.

Ø 2) After germination, the cover should be removed.

Ø 3) The seedlings have to be watered daily with a fine sprinkler.

How Should the Seed be Watered after Sowing?

At first, the seeds can be watered with a spray hose, or a watering can, to make sure that the water reaches the seeds.

Later, when the plant starts to grow,they can be watered by irrigation channel, sprinklers or with a drip system which is discussed later in the manual.

You have to pay attention to when the plants have 3 or 4 leaves, because then, you have to thin them.

• Loosen the soil between the furrows with the hoe.

• Use the weeding hoe to eliminate plants growing between the different groups, leaving only those at the desired distance.

• Manually remove small or weak plants, leaving only a single healthy plant.

Transplanting entails removing the seedlings from the containers and planting them in the spot where they will continue to grow until harvest.

If, 30 to 40 days after sowing, the seedlings have 4 to 5 leaves, and are firm, they are ready to be transplanted.

• When you transplant, the soil should be damp but not too wet.

The plants begin growing within 5 to 10 days.

Thinning means eliminating surplus plants, leaving only those at fixed distances:

• Do not water the seedlings for 2-3 days before transplanting.

Water on the day you transplant.

IMPORTANT:

How to Transplant Seedlings?

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Step by Step :

1) Remove the seedlings with a small trowel, taking up as much soil as possible.

2) Separate them carefully, one by one, onto a wet cloth or paper. Now is a good time to remove any plants that are small or weak.

3) Do not take out more seedlings than you plan to plant on that day. Keep the seedlings in the shade and under a wet cloth while you transplant. You should transplant early in morning or on cloudy day.

4) If the seedlings are very close together in the seed bed, you can take several clusters out at same time.

5) Shake them lightly to separate the soil from the roots. The roots are then bare.

1) Make a line of holes in the raised beds. The distances between the holes depend on the vegetable to be planted.

2) Place the seedling with the whole plug into the hole.

3) Press the soil with your hands so that the roots make contact with the earth below.

Remember!

You should prepare the soil before transplanting!

If the Roots are Bare

The seedlings have to be watered immediately after transplanting.

Check the back of the manual for a sowing chart.

You can water by furrows.

You can also use the watering can but avoid wetting leaves.

Make holes along the furrows with adibber (made with a stick)

Holding the outer leaves place theseedlings in the hole. The roots shouldbe spread out.

The seedling should be planted a littlebit deeper than it was in the container

Press the soil around the seedlingwithout damaging the roots.

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Chapter : 4

Why it is Important to Care for Soil in Kitchen Garden?

Although we do not see them because they are very small, the soil is inhabited by millions of insects and plants that are beneficial to your vegetables. These are microorganisms—they help compost plant and mineral waste and prepare nutrients that serve as 'plant food.' If these die, the soil also “dies” and will not be able to nourish plant growth. It is important to take care of the soil and give it back the nutrients that were used to produce the harvest. There are several methods to nourish and replenish the soil. They are:

Organic farming works in harmony with nature and uses techniques to achieve good yields without harming the natural environment or the people who live and work in it. Organic farmers control pests and weeds without using harmful chemicals, ensure that ground water stays clean and safe and maximizes his or her resources in the process. The methods and materials that organic farmers use are summarized as follows:

• Compost crop wastes and animal manures• Practice crop rotation• Use mulch on the soil surface

• Carefully select crop varieties that are naturally resistant to weeds and pests• Use natural pesticides• Practice Crop rotation

a. Organic Farming

To keep and build good soil structure and fertility :

To control pests, diseases and weeds :


Organic farming also involves :

Organic farming provides long-term benefits to people and the environment :

Modern, intensive agriculture causes many problems, including the following :

There are Many Types of Organic Matter

•

• Careful use of water resources• Good animal husbandry

• Control pests and diseases without harming the environment.• Ensure that water stays clean and safe.• Use resources which the farmer already has, so the farmer needs less money to buy farm

inputs.• Produce nutritious food, feed for animals and high quality crops to sell at a good price.

• Artificial fertilisers and herbicides are easily washed from the soil and pollute rivers, lakes and water courses.

• The prolonged use of artificial fertilisers results in soils with a low organic matter content which is easily eroded by wind and rain.

• Dependency on fertilisers. Greater amounts are needed every year to produce the same yields of crops.

• Artificial pesticides can stay in the soil for a long time and enter the food chain where they build up in the bodies of animals and humans, causing health problems.

• Artificial chemicals destroy soil micro-organisms resulting in poor soil structure and aeration and decreasing nutrient availability.

• Pests and diseases become more difficult to control as they become resistant to artificial pesticides. The numbers of natural enemies decrease because of pesticide use and habitat loss.

• Organic fertilizer or compost.• Worm humus (vermi composting)• Farm animal manure.• Mulches• Green Manures

Organic fertilizers can be prepared in the home garden. The materials you need are easy to get : kitchen leftovers, vegetable scraps animal manure.

Cat or dog excrement which can carry diseases and make people sick.

• Weeds with seeds that contaminate the ground.

• Toxic plants (like eucalyptus leaves, walnut leaves) which prevent the growth of other plants.

• Plants treated with herbicides.• Scraps of infected plants.• Poisonous plants.• Glass, metal, plastic, materials that do not

decompose.• Leftover fats and meats that decompose

very slowly and produce a stench

How to Prepare Compost

IMPORTANT! Never prepare organic compost with

The soil is a livingthing that also dieif we don’t take care of it.

One of the most essential jobs in your home garden is to add organic matter to the soil.

IMPORTANT

Animal Manure

VegetableScraps

KitchenLeftovers

Organic Fertilizer1918


One Way to Make a Compost Heap

Once you have enough manure, vegetable scraps and kitchen left overs, you can start an organic compost heap. Keep placing more layers. Remember that the compost heap shouldn't be more than 1.50 m or less than 75 cm high.

When the heap has quite a lot of layers and has reached a height of approximately 1.50 m. The compost heap should be covered with 3 cm(>1 inch) of soil or sand and then covered completely with a layer of straw.

Finally, water the heap and remove the pole, which will leave a vent for aeration. Although you may have more material, do not continue adding it to the heap. Prepare another compost instead.

The finished compost has a pleasant odour of soil and leaves, is very dark in colour, and is unrecognizable from the materials that had been placed in the heap.

After three months, the compost will be ready!

Some Suggestions for Taking Care of Compost

• Two or three days after having prepared the compost heap, you should stick your hand intoit to make sure it is hot. If the mixture is just lukewarm, you have to add water.

• If, when squeezing a handful of the mixture:

- Drops of water are released, it means that there is enough moisture.- Water runs out, it means that there is too much moisture.- Nothing comes out, it means that it lacks moisture

• In hot weather, the compost heap needs to be watered everyday so that it does not dry out.

• If the heap is in direct sunlight, it has to be protected with branches.

• In case of too much rain, cover the heap with plastic or old sheeting.

• After three weeks, turn the compost over with a rake or shovel.Repeat this procedure every 10 days to aerate better

Vermi-culture is the culturing of earthworms to compost various non-toxic organic solids and liquid wastes available from cities, dairies, sugar and distillery units, pulp and paper mills, tanneries, fermentation industries and food processing units. Earthworms are used as bio-degraders for composting such refuse. Vermi-castings, consisting of excreta of earthworms and the cocoons released by them, are rich in organic matter and plant nutrients. In the presence of vermi-casts, the decay of organic refuses and the formation of compost is accelerated. The process could be continued uninterruptedly by the addition of dung and other organic wastes at regular intervals to serve as food source for the earthworms.

Some advantages of vermi-composting are:

• Organic wastes are broken down and fragmented rapidly through earthworms resulting in stable, non-toxic material, which could be used as soil conditioner / fertilizer in agricultural and horticultural practices.

• As with the composting process, vermicomposting reduces the bulk and density of waste.

• In vermicomposting, earthworms increase and accelerate Nitrogen mineralization rate.

• The humification process is greater and faster during vermicomposting. A decrease in fulvic acid carbon and increase in the percentage of humic acid carbon are observed in vermicompost. The humic substances show an increase of 40-60%, which was higher than the value obtained through composting process.

• Vermicomposting also brings down the availability of heavy metals compared to composting.

• Vermicomposting has hormone like compounds (auxins), which accelerate plant growth. Higher percentages of germination have been recorded with vermicompost than with compost.

• Chemical analysis of vermicomposts and composts have shown slightly lower pH value for vermicompost and slightly higher nutrient concentrations, particularly of Nitrogen.

• It is also quite common for vermicomposts to have very low concentration of Ammonia-nitrogen and very high concentration of Nitrate-nitrogen, whereas the opposite is true for many types of compost.

• The nutritional value of vermin-compost depends upon the raw materials used for feeding.

b. Vermi-composting

1.50-1.50 cm

30-60cm

Choose a place that stays dryand sunny ; loosen the soil 30 cm to 60 cm deep, withouttilling

Bury a two-metre-high pole inthe centre. Place the first layer of straw or dry stem to the loosesoil

Without flattening the underlayer, add a layer of kitchen and vegetable scraps.

Sprinkle a small amount of ashor lime to avoid bad odourswhen the decomposition starts.

Make the next layer with manure

Then add another layer of soil.The heap has to be watered daily

10-15cm

2 m

5 cm10-15cm

5 cm

10-15cm5 cm

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Chapter : 5

How do we Look After the Garden?

a. Watering

How much and when to water depends on:

• The weather : If it is hot and dry, you need to water more often.• The type of soil : If the soil is sandy and loose you need to water more, but with less

water.• The type of vegetable to be watered : some vegetables have deep roots and other

shallow roots. The deeper the roots, the less often you need to water but with more water.

The following test can be done:

Two days after watering, make a hole near the plant. The moisture should be below the plants roots. Water should not be accumulated at that depth.

If the plant's leaves look droopy and lifeless, you should water them immediately, but it is better to prevent this from happening. The plant should always look firm.

To water, you can use:

• A watering can • A hose • Perforated cans

How to water

Water plants with a fine mist. When the seeds are just planted, you should avoid heavy gushes of water, because they can damage the seedlings by uncovering the seed.

Various methods for watering are:

Irrigation is easy but you need to take the following precautions:

• The furrows should have very little slope, so that the water does not carry away the soils and seeds.

• The water should run slowly, without becoming stagnant or breaking up the furrows.

• The water should not touch the plant directly.

• It is better to water in the mornings.

You can water your seedlings and small garden with sprinklers. This is the most effe-ctive method when the slope is steep and water is scarce.

You should observe the vegetable garden carefully to judge when and how much to water:

Important

a. Furrow irrigation

b. Sprinkler Watering


c. Farm Manure

d. Mulches

e. Green Manure

If you want to start your home garden right away, don't worry if you do not have organic compost or worm humus. Animal manure is a good alternative, provided it is well prepared. Manure from these animals can be used:

• Birds and poultry • Horses • Cows • Pigs• Goats • Sheep • Rabbits

Mulching means covering the ground with a layer of loose material such as compost, manure, straw, dry grass, leaves or crop residues. Green vegetation is not normally used as it can take a long time to decompose and can attract pests and fungal diseases. Mulches have several effects on the soil, which help to improve plant growth:

• Decreasing water loss due to evaporation• Reducing weed growth by reducing the amount of light reaching the soil• Preventing soil erosion• Increasing the number of micro-organisms in the top soil• Adding nutrients to the soil and improving soil structure• Adding organic matter to the soil

Green manures, often known as cover crops, are plants which are grown to improve the structure, organic matter content and nutrient content of the soil. They are a cheap alternative to artificial fertilisers and can be used to complement animal manures. Growing a green manure is not the same as simply growing a legume crop, such as beans, in a rotation. Green manures are usually dug into the soil when the plants are still young, before they produce any crop and often before they flower. They are grown for their green leafy material which is high in nutrients and provides soil cover. They can be grown together with crops or alone. They have the following benefits:

• Increase and recycle plant nutrients and organic matter• Improve soil fertility• Improve soil structure• Improve the ability of the soil to hold water• Control soil erosion• Prevent weed growth• Stop nutrients being washed out of the soil, for example, when the ground is not used between

main crops.

How to Use Mulches

Always apply mulches to a warm, wet soil. Mulch applied to a dry soil will keep the soil dry. Care should be taken as to the thickness of the mulch applied. Too much mulch will prevent air flow and encourage pests. To allow the germination of planted seeds through the mulch, a layer of less than 10cm should be used. To clear an area of land of persistent weeds a layer of 10cm or more can be used.

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c. Rain Water Harvesting

d. Drip Irrigation

You can build a mini-drip watering system with a used 200-litre tank,a tap and some PVC pipes. The drip emitters can be wooden screws.

b. Garden maintenance

I. Prevention from Pests and Bacteria

Pests are small insects that reproduce quickly, causing serious damage to crops because they feed off the plants. In many cases, the plants cannot resist pest attacks and die. Eliminating all the pests totally is not recommended. You need to achieve a 'balance'. The number of insects that remains in the garden after control should be low enough not to cause damage to plants. There are some things you can do to control pests before they become a problem:

• Avoid the use of chemical insecticides which are very dangerous to your own health. Consult your local technician(Extension officer) if the use of chemical products is inevitable, and select non-toxic products.

• There are many things that can be done to “avoid or prevent” the destruction of plants by pests:

- Crop rotation planting : Remember that you should change the kind of vegetables you plant every year.

- Remove all vegetable scraps : Insects may stay on the scraps in the field multiplying. Use vegetable scraps to make organic compost.

- Use Inter - planting : It will be more difficult for insects to spread if the plants are separated by other vegetables. Some plants are beneficial to others when they are planted next to them.

Rainwater collection :

CAUTION

If you water too much :

If you do not water enough :

The excess water will take nutrients deeper and out of reach of the roots. Also, too much water makes it easier for disease to develop.

The roots will grow closer to the surface and will be unable to take advantage of the soil nutrients. The plants will be smaller and produce less.

Nutrients

Humid soil Humid soil

Dry soil

Humid soil

Dry soil

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Choose vegetables that are more resistant : Some insects do not cause too much damage to some vegetables. Eg- onion, spinach, peas.

- Take good care of the vegetable garden : If the plants are big and strong the insects will not cause as much damage.

1) Traps : Better for catching some pests.

2) For slugs : Place boards on the soil between garden plants. During the day the slugs will hide under them where you can trap them easily.

3) For white flies, aphids and thrips : Paint the inside of a not too deep can a bright yellow. Half fill the can with water then hang it on a pole. The insects will be attracted by the colour and will drown upon falling in the water. Use concentrated soap solution. Apply with a sprayer to control aphids and small larvae.

4) Barriers: You can prevent grubs from damaging small plants by placing rings made of cardboard around them. When the plants grow and bypass the ring they are strong enough to resist the grub attacks.

-

How to Prepare Pest-Control Contraptions?

5) Sprays: There are some substances that do not damage plants or people yet help control infestations. Example: Soap solution, to control aphids, spidermites and white flies. Mix 2 teaspoonful of detergent or liquid soap in 4 litres of water. Use this liquid soap in 4 litres of water. Use this liquid to spary plants completely. Wash off the soap with clean water.

6) Colour traps: Use blue, yellow or white plastic flags covered with used engine oil to capture insects in the garden.

5 cm

3 cm

How to Prepare Organic Pesticides?

Neem (Azadirachta indica)

A tree native to India and Pakistan, but planted widely around the world for its use as a natural pesticide. In addition to being an insecticide, it has been used as a fungicide, nematicide and bactericide. Commercial products made with neem include Bioneem, Margoan-O, Biotrol and Nimex. The active ingredient in neem mimics an insect hormone and repels insects, as well as inhibiting their digestion, metamorphosis and reproduction. It has been used effectively on over 100 leaf-eating insects. To use neem, collect mature seeds, wash and remove the husk, and allow to dry completely. Take twelve handfuls of dry seeds (or use 500 grams per 10 litres water) and grind them into a fine powder. Mix the powder in 12 litres of water and soak overnight. Strain the liquid and apply.

Chile, pepper (Capsicum frutescens)

Collect two handfuls of chillies and dry. Grind into a fine powder, taking care not to inhale too much of the highly irritating dust, mix with 2 litres of water and soak overnight.

Tobacco (Nicotiana tabacum)

Only real tobacco contains nicotine, the substance acting as an insecticide. Collect healthy, fresh leaves which are free of spots. Mix 80 grams of dry leaves and stems per litre of water and soak for two days. Best if applied in the early morning because the solution is very volatile — it escapes as a gas. CAUTION: Tobacco is toxic to people, do not breath the vapours, or allow to touch the skin.

Garlic (Allium savitum)

Finely chop 3 bulbs of garlic and mix with 10 litres of water. You can store this for up to two weeks unstrained, although its effect on the plant lasts only for one to three days after applying it. The following mixtures are said to relieve the symptoms of some virus diseases:

Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis)

Mix 200 grams of fresh leaves per litre of water. Mix at least 5 minutes in a blender. Used against several virus diseases in tomatoes and beans.

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Microbial Insecticides

A number of microbial insecticides are available for organic farming or gardening. Handle microbial insecticides carefully and apply during low pest presence. Avoid applying microbial pesticides on a hot day. Apply these products as close as possible to the target insect or apply at weekly intervals, if necessary. Always mix microbial insecticides immediately before application and agitate the tank during spraying, as the spores may settle. Application of living spores to the underside of leaves and stems is recommended to increase persistence of these products and to protect them from washing off. Remember to check the expiration date on the containers before purchasing, and store products under cool, dry conditions. Type of microbial insecticides are the following:

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is the largest-selling commercial biological insecticide in the world. Commercial Bt products contain fermentation solids, bacterial spores, and insecticidal toxins. Bt is a stomach poison that paralyzes the insect's gut and causes infection, which kills the insect in 10 to 14 days. The smaller the insect when Bt is applied, the better the control will be.

Spinosad

Spinosad is derived from a bacterial fermentation process, and commercial formulations contain a mixture of spinosyns. Spinosad has a fast knockdown and is an excellent insecticide for alternating with other softer products like oils and Bt. Spinosad is a very effective insecticide against caterpillars, flea beetles, and thrips. Spinosad can be highly toxic to pollinators. To reduce environmental impacts, products should be applied during evening hours when bees are not around.

Pyrethrum

Pyrethrum (pyrethrin) is a popular botanical insecticide that provides quick knockdown of a number of small insects. Larger insects may recover from treatment. Pyrethrin is a contact poison and needs to be applied several times throughout the season to get full control of target pests. Pyrethrin formulations with piperonyl butoxide (PBO) are not approved for organic production.

Dahlia (Dahlia pinnata)

Mix 150 grams of fruit per litre of water.

Spinach (Spinacea oleracea)

Mix 200 grams of fresh plant leaves per litre of water and soak for one day.

CAUTION: Although these natural products are generally not toxic to humans, they can cause serious injury if inhaled, ingested, or rubbed on the skin or in the eyes. Use the same safe practices as described for commercial pesticides.

Chalk

Mix 3–5 grams of chalk per litre of water. Soak for 12 hours if construction grade chalk is used, 3– 4 days if natural chalk is used. Stir frequently and apply directly. Dehydrates the insect when in contact. It can burn young plant tissue and should therefore only be used on mature leaves.

Mineral oil

Use a high grade oil such as ultra fine spray oil or M-Pede. Mix 10–30 ml of mineral oil in a small amount of water, then add one litre of water, stir constantly. Cooking oil can be used instead of mineral oil, if soap is added. Dehydrates or suffocates the insects or their eggs when in contact.

Animal urine

Collect cow or goat urine and mix with a small amount of soil. Allow to ferment for two weeks. Dilute with 2–4 litres of water per litre of urine. Urine is very high in nitrogen and thus can burn tender leaves. Do not apply in full sun, and dilute further if necessary. Human urine can also be used.

Cow's milk

Mix 1/2 cup of fresh, unpasteurized milk with 4 cups of flour and 20 litres of water. It kills insect eggs and acts against some insects which carry viruses.

Fungicides

Fungi prosper in conditions of high humidity and shade. Reducing these two factors helps control them. Fungi often appear first on the lower leaves of the plant because the spores are released from the soil. Always apply fungicides to the soil and the bottom leaves.

Papaya (Carica papaya)

Finely chop 1 kg of dry leaves and mix with one litre of water; stand overnight. Dilute with four litres of water.

Garlic and onion

(Allium sativum, A. cepa). Mix 500 grams finely chopped material in 10 litres of water. Allow to ferment for one week. Dilute with another 10 litres of water. Incorporate into the soil.

Canavalia (Canavalia sp.)

Canavalia has been shown to kill the nests of leaf-cutter ants. The ants do not eat the leaves they cut, but use the leaves to grow a fungus which the ants eat. Canavalia leaves prevent the fungus from growing, and this starves the ants. It can be planted around the border of the garden.

Non-Plant Substances used as Insecticides

II Weed Control

When plants that you have not planted- and do not want-grow in your garden, they are Weeds. Weeds take away light, nutrients and water from the plants in your vegetable garden. Weeds cause more damage when the vegetables are small and unable to compete for water and light. You need to control weeds from the very beginning, by doing the following

1. Tiling the soil.

• Stirring up the soil between the furrows with a rake.• Clearing near the plants with a weeding hoe.• This should be done only on the surface to avoid damaging the roots. This job has to be

done when the plants are still small.

2. Covering the soil with mulch.

You can cover the soil between the furrows with any of these materials:

• Organic compost• Black plastic• Dried grass• Newspaper• Dry leaves

:

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The best cover is organic fertilizer or compost. Apply a layer 5 to 10 cm thick between the furrows and around the plants. As a result:

• Weeds cannot grow because of the lack of light.• The soil remains moist.• The soil does not over heat during the day,nor get too cool during the night.• The plants leaves and fruit stay cleaner since mud does not splash.• Avoids erosion.

3. Preventive control: It is the measures that should be taken to prevent an excessive increase in the growth of weeds on the soil such as:

• Using good quality seeds that are not mixed with weed seeds.• Using organic compost.• Planting crops in rotation.• If necessary, using something like nylon stockings to filter out weed seeds from water that is

used for watering.• Keeping the garden clean of weeds.• Not using weeds with seeds in making organic compost.

4. Mulch is another good way of controlling weeds.

5. One way is using recycled plastic plates to make a crown around each plant, with the plate facing down. This impedes unwanted plants from growing around your crop, helps keep soil moisture in and avoids soil erosion.

Chapter : 6

Yielding and Distribution of Vegetables

The quality of vegetables is highest when they are ripe and ready to be harvested. Most vegetables shrivel easily when they are harvested green.

• Some produce that is harvested too early will never have the flavour or nutritional value that ripe vegetables have.

• You should start getting to know every vegetable. With practice you will get to know the exact moment to harvest each one.

• Vegetables that are harvested too late (overripe) will rot and are unsafe and unpleasant to eat.

• Harvest during the coolest hours of the day, early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when it has cooled down.

• Place everything you harvest in the shade as you go.

• Handle the produce carefully. It should not be bruised or torn with your nails.

• Harvest when the leaves have dried. In the case of onions, garlic, pumpkin and potatoes you should harvest when plant is ready. This means that the edible part is ready.

• Use a very sharp knife to cut leafy vegetables and to separate the edible part from the plant.

a. Harvest

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• Before harvesting root and bulb vegetables, loosen the soil with a strong garden fork to avoid having to pull at the plant which may damage it.

• Leave a bit of stem attached to the fruit. A piece of stem is left on many fruits like melons, pumpkin and peppers so that diseases do not enter through the incision made when removing the stem.

Observe the following precautions when storing vegetables:

• Eliminate vegetables that are soft, damaged and sick or infected with pests as they will affect the healthy vegetables.

• Trip the leaves on root vegetables like carrots, beets and radishes to 1 cm. Leaves of some plants such as beets and radish can also be consumed.

• Some fruits such as tomatoes and melons can be harvested before reaching maturity and kept until they can be eaten. Others like onions and garlic have to be curried/dried after harvested or harvested when they are dry, and kept in bags or nets.

• Most vegetables need to be stored in a very cool place (10-15 centigrade). Ideally vegetables should be stored in a refrigerator.

• There always should be room for air to circulate.

• You can use paper or cloth bags to protect the vegetables. Do not store in black plastic bags.

b. Storage

APPENDIX -1

IMPORTANT: The following form is intended as a guide only. Be sure the final agreement you use meets the needs of your group and the property owner.

I, ______(property owner) give permission to ________(community garden organization) to use the property located at __________________(site address) as a community garden project, for the terms of _______ years, beginning _______(Date) and ending, _______(Date).

This agreement may be renewed with the approval of both the property owner and the community garden organization at the end of the agreement period. All questions about the community garden, its nature, risks or hazards, have been discussed with the garden coordinator to my satisfaction. The community garden agrees to indemnify and save harmless the property owner from all damages and claims arising out of any act, omission or neglect by the community garden's occupation or use of the property. As the property owner, I agree to notify the community garden organization of any change in land ownership, development, or use 60 days prior to the change in status.

All the members of the community kitchen garden will spend time in the garden & provide their services such as . 50% of the vegetable and fruit produce will be given to AWCs and primary/middle school located nearer to the garden on free of cost. The remaining will be distributed among the members equally.

(Property owner's signature)_______________________ (Date)___________________

(Community garden member's signature)_____________ (Date)___________________

(Signature of all embers is essential)

(Witness signature)______________________________ (Date)___________________

Template of MoU Between the Members Regarding Garden Maintenance and Vegetable Distribution

setting up the garden, sowing & maintenance

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APPENDIX - II

Month Veggies / Herbs North South

September

Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Peas, Radish, Tomato, Lettuce, Spinach

Capsicum, Bean, lady finger, Brinjal, pumpkin,

tomato, cauliflower, cabbage

Raddish, Tomato, Fenu greek, chilli, spinach, beans, brinjal, Cluster beans, lady's finger,

drumstick

October

Beet, Brinjal, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, Peas, Radish, Spinach,

Turnip

Beans, Brinjal, spinach, turnip, tomato,

cauliflower, cabbage

Beetroot, Raddish, Tomato, Fenu greek,

onion, spinach, brinjal, Cluster beans, lady's

finger, drumstick

November Turnip, Tomato,

Radish, Pepper, Peas, Beet

Radish, peas, Brinjal, spinach, turnip, tomato,


Beetroot, Raddish, Tomato, Fenu greek,

onion, spinach, brinjal, Cluster beans, lady's

finger, drumstick

December Tomato Radish, peas, Brinjal,

spinach, tomato, cauliflower, cabbage

Beetroot, Raddish, Tomato, Fenu greek, Snake gourd, onion,

spinach, brinjal, Cluster beans, lady's finger,

drumstick

August All gourds, Cucumber,

Okra, Tomato

Beans, lady finger, Brinjal, pumpkin,

tomato, cauliflower, cabbage

Cauiflower, Cabbage, Brinjal, Tomato, Chilli,

fenu greek, cluster beans, snake gourd,

onion, spinach, brinjal, lady's finger, drumstick

January Brinjal Capsicum, Green pea, cauliflower, cabbage,

tomato, brinjal

Raddish, Tomato, Fenu greek, chilli,Onion, all gourds, spinach, beans, brinjal, Cluster beans, lady's finger, drumstick

Month Veggies / Herbs North South

Febuary

Bittergourd, Bottle gourd, Cucumber,

French Beans, Okra, Sponge Gourd,

Watermelon, Spinach, Tinda

Bottle gourd, green pea, capsicum, cabbage,

tomato, spinach, Tinda

Raddish, Tomato, Fenu greek, chilli, Cluster

beans, Onion, all gourds, spinach, beans, brinjal, Cluster beans, lady's finger, drumstick

March Same as February

Bitter gourd, Bottle gourd, green pea, capsicum, cabbage,

tomato, spinach, Tinda

Raddish, Tomato, Fenu greek, chilli, Cluster

beans, spinach, brinjal, lady's finger, drumstick

April Capsicum cucumber, tinda,

capsicum, cabbage, tomato

Raddish, Tomato, Fenu greek, chilli, brinjal,

lady's finger, drumstick, Cluster beans

May Onion, Brinjal, PepperPumpkin, onion, tinda,

tomato

Raddish, Tomato, Fenu greek, chilli, spinach, brinjal, lady's finger, drumstick, Cluster

beans

June

All gourds, Brinjal, Cucumber,

Cauliflower, Okra, Onion,Tomato,Pepper,

Lady Finger

Brinjal, pumpkin, tomato, cauliflower

Raddish, Tomato, Fenu greek, chilli, spinach, brinjal, lady's finger, drumstick, Cluster

beans

July All gourds, Cucumber,

Okra, Tomato

lady finger, Brinjal, pumpkin, tomato,


Cauiflower, Cabbage, Brinjal, Tomato, Chilli,

fenu greek, cluster beans, all gourds, onion, Raddish, spinach, brinja,

Cluster beans, lady's finger, drumstick,

Cluster beans

SOWING CHART-MONTH WISE (NORTH AND SOUTH ZONE)

SOWING CHART-MONTH WISE (NORTH AND SOUTH ZONE)

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Spade - flat : to mark and to cut the soil when it is soft.

Spade - pointed : when the ground is hard.

Shovel - wide : for loading and unloading earth, compost etc.

Garden - Fork : to turn the soil and stones.

Hoe : to break up the soil, to break the crust, to remove weeds and to draw up furrows. The narrower the blade, the better it adapts to hard earth.

Name Spacing (Inches between the plants)

Depth of seeds (Inches)

Direct / Transplant

Basil 12-18 inches 1/2 inch Direct

Brinjal 18-24 inches 1/2 inch Transplant

Bitter Gourd 18-24 inches 1/2 inch Direct

Bottle Gourd 18-24 inches 1/2 inch Direct

Beet 4 to 6 inches 3/4 to 1 inch Direct

Cauliflower 18 inches 1/4 to 1/2 inch Transplant

Cucumber 12 inches 3/4 to 1 inch Direct

Cabbage 12-18 inches 1/2 inch Transplant

Carrot 6-12 inches 1/4 inch Direct

Capsicum 5 inches 1/2 inch Direct

Lady's Finger 12-18 inches 1/4 inch Direct

Onion 12 inches 3/8 inch Direct

Okra 12 inches 1.5 inches Direct

Peas 4-6 inches 1 inch Direct

Pepper 18 - 24 inches 1/4 to 1/2 inch Direct

Radish 2-3 inches 1/2 inch Direct

Turnips 12-18 inches 1.5 inches Direct

Spinach 4-6 inches 1/2 inch Direct

Raddish 5 inch 1/2 inch Direct

Brinjal 30 inch 1 inch Transplant

Chilli 24 inch 1 inch Transplant

Tomato 30 inch 1 inch Transplant

Gourds 36 inch 1/2 inch Direct

Fenu greek 3 inch 1/2 inch Direct

Cluster beans 30 inch 1/2 inch Direct

Beans 30 inch 1/2 inch Direct

Onion 5 inch 1/2 inch Direct

Drumstick 240 inch 1/2 inch Direct

Lady's finger 30 inch 1/2 inch Direct

SOWING CHART - AS PER DEPTH AND SPACING OF VEGETABLE

APPENDIX - III

TOOLS FOR GARDENING

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Rake : to break the soil crust, to remove lumps, to prepare the sowing bed and to cover the seeds.

Weeding Hoe : to break the soil crust and to weed near the plant.

Dibbers or Transplanters : made from tree branches. Are useful for making holes where the seedlings will go and to hold the soil.

Trowel : to help move seedlings to their planting spot.

Watering Can : to water seedlings and new plants with a light sprinkle. (A perforated can or a hose with sprinkler nozzle can be used).

The technique for home organic gardening is storing seeds from other plants rather than going to the market and purchasing processed seeds which have different kinds of chemicals in them. In order to plant garden seeds and to know how to store seeds long term, then here are 9 points which can guide you to seed storage.

When one is taking seeds direct from the plant they should first clean and dry them. In order to clean them, the entire soil and dust residue should be removed by using a tissue paper or a kitchen towel. They should be dried properly by using a kitchen towel and leaving it under the sun for a while. Place them in a zip log bag and store in a dry area.

When taking a seed of the plant, remove all the additional matter which might be present. With the help of the fingernails remove the gel coating, shell, husk or the cob which might be present. Dry them and store in a zip lock bag. This will prevent them from having fungus, moisture and molds.

For storing seeds long term, one should know how to preserve seeds in the fridge or the freezer. First of all one should clean and dry the seed and then store it in a zip lock bag. The temperature provided with the seeds in the refrigerator and freezer should be constant until the seeds are ready to be used for plantation. The seeds should be kept at the back of the freezer or refrigerator where it is away from the fan and has a constant temperature. The enzyme activity will be stopped in the seeds and this is the best method for the long term seed storage.

To store seeds in an open atmosphere, one can use an airtight jar or a storage container. In 4 layers of tissue paper, add 2 heaped tablespoons of milk powder, fold and keep it with the seeds in the air tight jar. This will prevent any moisture to enter the container, or one can also use silica gel, replace after every six months. This is the best way to store seeds, especially the rare seeds and exotic seeds for a longer term.

Whenever one is storing seeds for a longer term in the zip lock or air tight jar, always label them with the date and year in order to know which seeds need to be planted since the prime time for the seed storage is around 3 years.

In order to store veggie seeds, spread them out on a kitchen towel. Once dried roll them over and store in a zip lock bag. Whenever one wants to plant them, they can tear down the kitchen towel roll and plant the seed along with the towel in the soil.

The best way for storing vegetable seeds in the pulp, squeeze out the pulp with seeds and add them in a container with water stirring for a week. The dead seeds will appear up, discard them again and then add water until the well seeds are cleaned. Once cleaned, dry them and lay them out on a paper to dry and then store in a zip lock bag.

To store seeds from fruits or vegetables, take the most ripen one and then wash them clean and pat dry. Keep them secured in an airtight jar or zip lock bag.

One can store seeds in a container with cotton balls, make sure there is no moisture otherwise the seed germination will start.

1)

2)

3)

4)

5)

6)

7)

8)

9)

APPENDIX - IV

Storage of Seeds

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Documents

kitchen garden manual