-Kenya Sky Island Strugglesin Changing WorldBy Clar Ni Chonghaile

YOU may not have heard of Kenya's MatthewsRange but this sky island - isolated mountainforests surrounded by a vast desert plain - offerssomething special to those willing to take the timeto stray off the beaten tourist track.

These forested hills rise over 2,500 metres above thesurrounding low lands about 200 km north of Isiolo in northernKenya. For decades, access has been difficult, but now a newroad - built to facilitate oil and mineral exploration as wellas trade in the region - is opening up this unique landscapeof ancient cycads, sometimes called "living fossils", and giantcedars. This is causing concern among conservationists.

The new road is just one of several threats to thearea. The fate of the Matthews Range raises the old questionof how to protect valuable natural resources and uniqueecosystems while allowing much needed development forlocal communities.

Dr. Paula Kahumbu, executive director ofWildlifeDirect, took part in an expedition to the Matthews Rangelast year to evaluate biodiversity and note any new species.

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The expedition was supported by the ature Conservancyand included members of the Northern Rangelands Trust andNamunyak Conservancy.

Kahumbu said the team was surprised by the scarcityof new species on the mountains, which were formed over 10million years ago. Sky islands often contain unique speciesbecause of their isolation. "(The Matthews Range) is in a part ofKenya where we are seeing strong evidence of climate change.The lower rainfall and hotter temperatures are drying outthe forests," she said. "That is probably why we found so littlediversity there."

Dr. Richard Leakey, who fbunded WildlifeDirect,believes that the alternation of wet and dry spells has reducedthe number of species as those used to wet conditions die outduring droughts and are not replaced.

Other threats are also present. This region is hometo the Samburu people, nomadic pastoralists like the Maasaiwho for years have used the forests for their own subsistence.But their impact is no longer .sustainable as the environmentbecomes more fragile and population demands increase.

"Locals said there had been no destruction but youcould see huge patches on the sides (of the mountains) thathad been burnt years before and had not recovered," saidKahumbu. "Bush and ancient cycads had been burnt to acrisp," by honey hunters who let fires burn out of control tosmoke the wild bees out of their hives, she said.

Then there is the new road, which runs along theedge of the Range. New roads offer new opportunities butalso new risks. "The traditional low-level of use had beengoing on for hundreds of years but because of the access(from new roads) these forests will become very attractiveto loggers. There are no controls and nothing to stop youdriving up in your truck and driving off with charcoal.Nothing," said Kahumbu.

The Range is not in a protected area but ismanaged by the amunyak Conservancy, a communityproject. The orthern Rangelands Trust also works withlocal communities to ensure sustainable development andpromote tourism and community-based enterprises.Kahumbu says the best way to protect the area would be fora private commercial or conservation entity to step in andget government backing to operate. Perhaps it could thenapply to get carbon credits under a U.. -backed schemethat hopes to reward developing nations with carbon creditpayments in return for saving forests.

This, she thinks, would be more effective thantrying to develop a fully fledged, high-volume tourismindustry. "You need some kind of strategy that will providesustainable long-term conservation funding and thentourism adds something extra," she said.

For those who do want to experience this uniquelandscape with its endemic cycads -- palm-like plants withspreading fronds and a thick stem that seems to be made upof scales -- there are a number of options, including cameltrekking and camping.

Visitors can also stay at the Kitich Camp, a tentedcamp for up to eight people, in the southern part of therange. Walking safaris can be arranged to spot elephant andbuffalo and see the ancient cycads. Also found in the area arelion, leopard, Greater Kudu, waterbuck and forest hog, andthere are over 200 species of birds.

You can also stay at Sarara Camp, a community-runlodge with five double tents and a natural rock swimmingpool overlooking a waterhole. "(The Matthews Range) isvery beautiful and will attract people who want something alittle more rugged," says Kahumbu.

For more information visit: wwwsataracamp.com.ww~v..wildlifedirect.org.wlv~v.magicalafrica.Jlet/kitich_camp_kenya.htm

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