KANCHENJUNGA TO MAKALU GHT TREK NEPAL 2015 PART 4

Day 11 Pangpema to Lhonak (4,785m)- What a night at 5150 meters. It began when I woke up almost midnight coughing, then listening as I became aware of the snow storm raging outside. There was already a foot-deep drift closing off the vestibule. Reaching out with bare hands from my sleeping bag, I cleared the entry way of dry snow so there was air circulating from the outside. I now had trouble with my breathing and felt liquid congestion accumulating in my lungs and I breathed with a slight rattle. Since I have asthma can be activated by the cold, I was very concerned, and prayed. A woman last year (2014) from the Seattle Mountaineers group died from pulmonary edema in the night from the same symptoms on Everest base camp at the same elevation we were, according to my friend Tom in Seattle who was on the trip. Tom said she was fighting the flu, and has spread it through the group at the beginning of their trip. She was warned not to continue up but she did. This was on my mind now.

I thought what choices I had, either in waking up our guide and descending immediately or wait and see, and try to sleep sitting up. It was a fierce snow storm, pitch black, and hazardous as well as challenging to hike out in the dark. If the symptoms worsened I knew it was important to get back down to a lower elevation quickly. I was coughing heavily and I prayed for this to reverse, and after more coughing, the fluid accumulation stopped and I felt the congestion improved clearing up somewhat. I knew God heard my cry and I am not one to overdramatize this situation. The next morning Ethan and Stan shared with me their concern hearing me cough through the night and they were very encouraged by my faith for God to prevent this from getting worse. A healing like this only happened once in my life before from a damaging impact to my right eye at the age of 14. I was kept immobile for three days at Children’s Orthopedic Hospital in Seattle, and the third day the eye surgeon shared with my parents and I that he had scheduled to remove since the eye was ready to burst hemorrhaging with blood. I was prayed for by our pastor, and the symptoms reversed, causing the surgeon to cancel the operation and clearly state to me he had never witnessed a miracle like what happened to me.

The wind became much stronger as the night progressed through to morning. We were in a full-blown blizzard, and every half hour I had to reach out from my sleeping bag to sweep the fresh snow that drifted covering the tent fly and vestibule to get air flow inside to breath. I was so warm in my marmot down bag and down coat over the bag, but it was subzero and ice condensed inside the tent from my breath. I was tired from lack of sleep, and it seemed such a long night before our guide Pasang shouted through the storm it was time to break camp. In the blowing white out the tough porters prepared on their small kerosene stove hot water so we had a warm cup of hot tea and instant porridge. They were very cold and also hadn’t gotten much sleep, and now the winds were blowing 70-80 km/hour blizzard, making packing up the frozen tents tortuous. We were all frozen; it was so cold.

Shouldering our packs while the porters lifted their loads, we began our way back. Our guide led first breaking trail in the snow, knowing it would be treacherous making our way through large boulder screes and hidden holes in the rock where knees could be blown out if we post holed through. Couldn’t see the trail, and everyone stumbled on the slipper ice covered rocks, and with legs crashing into cavities unseen next to snow

covered giant boulders. It was difficult, but we managed to find our route down slowly following rock cairns for 12 kilometers from 5200 meters to 4200 meters at Lhonak. This was the most miserable part of the trip so far experiencing high winds and piercing ice

stinging our faces, and trying to avoid twisting a knee. This brought back unpleasant memories of so many miserable climbs I suffered in the past in my youth, including attempted spring ascents with storms suddenly appearing on Mt Rainier or the North Cascades, and taking 40 church youth across the glacier peak wilderness during a summer snow storm that lasted almost a week.

I was still short of breath while descending, barely able to keep up with the group. I was in such good shape, yet I don’t know why altitude is affecting me this time. I handled altitude much better in my younger years, having scaled up to 5700 meters (19,000 feet) on Mt Kilimanjaro easily in 5 days from near sea level, and hiking for months at an average of 5200 meters (17,000 feet) in Peru. This time I gave up most of my heavy camera gear, feeling a bit sorry for the porters that had labor with heavy loads, fighting deep snow drifts and falling into unseen holes in the rocks covered by snow.

Stan gave me an extra baklava that helped reduce my facial exposure to the freezing and bitter ice storm that could cause potential frostbite. We were on the razors edge of hypothermia and exhaustion stumbling through the boulders and too often a leg or our whole body would posthole thigh deep through the snow that covered hidden holes in the rock screes. We not only worried about spraining a knee or ankle, but was also concerned about potential avalanches of rock and snow from the cliffs above. It was hard work for many long hours before we finally make it to Lhonak with poor visibility. We could make out the faint form of the stone huts and finally got to their shelter and out of the biting wind while the porters made a smoky fire with dried yak dung. Faithfully our guide unpacked the heavy kerosene stove and in the smoky room, made us hot noodle Raman soup that revived everyone. By late evening the wind died, and the skies cleared casting a wonderful light on all the fresh snow of blues and gold, and reflecting star light.

Good fellowship tonight with Stan and Ethan covered in our sleeping bags in the cold hut. We were so thankful to have gotten through this severe weather and miserable conditions. Good sharing and we could identify with the mountain people and the poor here, who lived simply but often without much food. Stan shared his vision of ‘Give back

hope” that he started a year ago to build orphanages and feed poor villages. We were amazed how we persevered through snow covered boulder fields and hidden rock holes

in this blizzard. We stepped outside for a while to witness a beautiful sunset of mauve yellow and crimson sky painted in reflection on glaciated summits. We crawled into our sleeping bags exhausted, and thankful to be at a lower elevation under clear skies.

Day12 Lhonak to Ghunza (3,595m)- Very cold and clear morning. Outside the winter scene was pure white with a foot of snow accumulated on the ground contrasted against a blue sky. Slept cold but okay. Equipment all frozen including our boots and laces, packs, even water bottles, but we kept spare water in our sleeping bags. After finally being successful jamming my feet into stiff, frozen boots, we gathered for a breakfast of granola and hot yak milk. All was cooked on a dried yak dung fire that belched a thick acrid smoke barely survival, burning our eyes and lungs.

Lhonak and the alluvial plant in the evening

Still tired from the previous day, we headed out across the expansive snow covered alluvial fan under a now high overcast and hazy sun. We traversed across more difficult

terrain of boulders covered with ice and snow trying to find the rock cairns that marked the unseen path of the trail. We had to push through sections of 2-3-foot-deep snow drifts that crossed the valley, tiring to sludge through with our already exhausted legs.

Lhonak

Descending from Lhonak past Kambachan on the way 30 kilometers to Ghunza

And we continually slipped on ice covered boulders or posthole into countless snow-covered rock crevasses. We walked slowly in order to feel out the terrain with trekking poles. It took great concentration to be cautious not to twist ankles or knees.

After 5 very long hours we finally descended to Kangpechen, and tried to find a room in the tea house there. The kind and affable owner of the white stone tea house shared there was no room. The German and Swedish groups could not ascend higher, so they stayed, filling the tea house. He did cook us lunch while we huddled around the cook stove inside while he cooked us spaghetti and soup, sharing he was trained as a cook in college. He had an artist friend from Kathmandu visiting. After a good rest and a great lunch, we unanimously voted to leave and descend for another long 5 hours on snow covered terrain to Ghunza. Everyone tired, but we did not want to camp in slush and snow conditions on the flats near the tea house. We wanted a dry bed.

The afternoon was warming up and melting part of the snow as we crossed the flats in mud from yak trails and slush snow to the steep valley wall and rock avalanche area that was shedding even more boulders and dangerous. We navigated carefully on the failing slop, and saw one fresh huge boulder that had just peeled off just before we arrived at the edge, Smaller rocks kept zinging by in front of us but we kept an eye upslope to run across when it was clear. We crossed without incident and was thankful we didn’t have to take a major detour cross country on a small trail in the valley. There were more fresh rock slides moved by the freshly melting snow.

Finally entered the gentler sloped valley below with forests of now snow-covered birch and fir mixed with rhododendrons in the understory. Continued to descend into larch and juniper fir forest with azaleas and realized this was such a beautiful place, and wondered what it would be like in bloom. It was now overcast, accenting the grey and black coloration of steep cliffs with myriads of waterfalls and rock slabs. So nice to be back in the forest and hear the melody of the roaring river.

Made it to Ghunza by almost 7 pm and an hour after dark. Managed to find yellow flowered primroses in bloom along the trail by headlamp. I was thankful for having the endurance of covering 31 kilometers today (17 miles) in steep, snow covered terrain. Our porters were exhausted, and we were exhausted even without the heavy loads they were carrying. It was good to sit and sip yak tea at the tea house we stayed on the way up, and we had dinner of soup and rice.

Tucked into my sleeping bag in the cold tea house, in low light with my headlamp read Ephesians about being predestined by the lord. So difficult a place to live here with the cold and rain and the Tibetan Nepalese live a difficult life, but Ghunza is a beautiful setting in the mountains.

Day 13 Rest Day. Slept hard. Good breakfast of wheat and millet. Washed clothes in cold mountain water as the sun broke came out, sorted gear, then accompanied our guide to visit the WWF education center and the distillery, where juniper branches are clipped (avoiding killing the tree) to distill juniper oil, selling and creating the product for

market. There is a small hydroelectric dam here that provides electricity for Ghunza to Gyabla down river. We returned to the tea house and had a good lunch of bean soup with momo, a pastry with vegetables cooked over an open fire. So good. Stan and I had badly blistered lips from sun and snow even using sunblock so eating became a bit

Ghunza, Sherpa who worked with WWF radio collaring snow leopard

painful with cracked lips.

By afternoon rain and thunderstorms rolled in, so we sat inside the tea house by the small smoky fire and passed the time in conversation. Two goats are inside with us and are fed scraps. Finally, we saw Stefan and Kirsten from Germany pass by and they stopped to chat. Stefan looked tired and worn out, and had no energy to get past lhonak. Kristen accompanied us up to Pangpema, but he had been suffering from

altitude sickness. We joined them for a great evening at the Kanchenjunga house where Birgit and Stefan were staying and met with us, and I had shared about meeting the Sherpa guide Himalaya Chunga Sherpa who worked with WWF on the snow leopard project. He showed us his photographs and shared about darting snow leopards in the Kanchenjunga valley. The population of about 35 leopards there is doing well, sustained by about 750 blue sheep. However, the pastures are deteriorating the past 4 years due to little rain during the monsoon, and an increased snow depth during the winter. Yak grazing competes with sheep for food, but with dwindling grass in the meadows, the mountain people are selling off their yaks. Leopards feed on blue sheep, domestic yaks, snow partridge and pikas. No marmots here.

Hi\s daughter-in-law and wife gave me tea with yak milk. Exciting best part was I used his satellite phone and got through to my wife Djainiaty. Once I connected and heard her voice, I was elated. I have really missed her and it was so good to hear her voice and know we both missed each other greatly. She is precious to me, but so busy with work, making her own coffee meals, but still sings in the morning and worships even without me. I am so blessed. thankyou Lord for keeping us safe, and for helping me be a light in this dark Buddhist area. Shared with the Swedish group at the adjacent lodge and the group shared Kanchenjunga was very difficult and only 3 made it to Pangpema out of the group of 15.

Our guide Pasang laid out our change in route because of the heavy snow, so decided to avoid Nunga La Pass (4700 meters) and descend lower down the Ghunza valley to Gyabla and Selap where we had passed over a week ago on the way up. We would ascend an alternate route above that crossed a lower mountain pass called Himalaya Chumba. It was a longer way around to Olangchung gola and Lumba Sumba Pass, but a better alternative in heavy snow storms. We are told it is wilder and remote here, and the area is known for Tahr and goral along the cliffs of the steep drainage leading to the pass, and musk deer, Himalayan black bear, and red panda on the other side in bamboo forests towards Selap. Rested well and prepared to leave Ghunza in the morning. Read Ephesians 2.

Day 14. Ghunza to Gyabla (2,730m)- It had rained hard last night, and above 3400 meters there was more fresh snow. We left Ghunza with full loads and crossed the bridge, then descended the river heading for Gyabla, a day’s journey downriver just above Amajillosa. We are retracing our route earlier last week as we descend back into forests of fir, and now budding/flowering species of rhododendrons in different shades of pink, red, and lavender. There was the wonderful scent filling the forest of lilac bushes covered with flowers that reminded me of my dwarf lilac blooming at home in the spring. The scent of lilacs filled the air. It became warm again as we descended through forests of rhododendrons, hemlock, bamboo, tan oak and oak covered with moss, then entered the spectacular Ghunza River canyon. Here there were vertical walls containing the wild and boiling river now filled with snowmelt, and there were huge boulder drops that are more spectacular than Icicle Creek in the Washington cascades at home.

Was passed by a yak and mule train before we finally reached Gyabla in the afternoon, a small clearing with a tea house surrounded by few huts. We rested and were served a

lilacs in bloom along the Ghunza River

Tan oak, chestnut, maple montane forest cup of hot tea and cookies before we began our ascent along the ridge above us. We climbed almost 300 meters in elevation through fields of barley and potatoes until we reached a few small huts with cedar planked roofs. With the permission granted from the owner, this was to be camp for the night, and pitched our tents while curious young children stormed out of nearby huts to observed everything we did, from unpacking our

Broadleaved montane forest at 2800 meters packs to setting up our tents. We again had tea heated on the fire of the host family, who welcomed us into their hut. Inside it was dark and smoky, and the children were covered in soot and dirt, but they were filled with laughter and joy with their new guests and entertainment. I made up a game of chasing the kids as a bear (balu), then it turned into potato bear...they laughed and played. wonderful children who were so curious, mixed with goats coming into the wood home...with black tar lining all the overhead beams, and quarter yak meat smoked and stored on the rafters. The girls of the mother and friends ranged from 2-10 years old. I desired some way to lead the kids to know Gods love for them through me and prayed for them. We enjoyed the neighbors visit

Camp above Gyabla, home of a Nepalise family on a remote farm

and older women who came for eye treatment and medicine with extra ointment Ethan Barrett had to give them.

Remote farm above Gyabla where we camped, and I had the chance to enjoy the children and family

Ate steamed potatoes and beans for dinner, then again played with the kids chasing them as they laughed and would explode out of the house with me in pursuit. Sat by the fire as it got dark, but room filled with choking smoke. Several neighbors gathered and drank chang or millet beer heated with hot water warmed by the fire. I sang a few songs for them from John Denver 'almost heaven, west Virginia' before I left for the tent. Wonderful evening to bring joy to children. DAY15 Gyabla across Haspokhari pass (4150m) to yak camp (2900m) above the remote Tamur Nadi River. woke up to a beautiful clear day and thanked the Lord for the warmth of the sun as it slipped over the ridge. Packed up sleeping bag, clothes and gear. Three young girls stood next to me and watched my ritual of stuffing my gear into waterproof storage bags. Breakfast of boiled eggs and rice, then began the steep ascent that began through grass pastures towards the ridge to Haspokharf pass (4150 M). It was warm as we got a late start passing through the fields and I walked on ahead, then I reached a stream and entered a beautiful tan oak forest, trees with long thick trunks. Alone I had time to reflect, passing through blooming rhododendron, and the sound of the stream cascading through the forest mixed with birdsong made a wonderful time for meditation with the Lord. Very steep trail and continued to gain

water ouzel, white winged grosbeak in juniper

Himalayan goral, Jannu from clearing above Gyabla ridge elevation through now a rhododendron dominated section of forest. Heard musk deer bark close by, now able to walk quietly and see wildlife, then saw several monal

pheasants. Beautiful male birds with rainbow metallic colored feathers. Nearing the top of the oak and hemlock forest it clouded up and began to rain. Here there were lavender primulas and moss covered true firs (Abies), then a wolverine sized honey badger in the tree ahead of me, very tame as it wasn’t bothered by my approach. It worked its way to the base of the tree then scooted away across the forest floor. Heard female Satyr Tragopan and soon afterwards a pair of Great Parrotbills Conostoma oemodium (nationally threatened) and a Spot-winged Rosefinch Carpodacus odopeplus feeding on Rhododendron nectar.

Forest hardwoods budding, rhododendrons in bloom in this wild, rarely used trail up the ridge to the pass that leads over the ridge to the upper Tamur river It began raining lightly now and getting colder, so I found a sheltered log under a huge boulder on a cliff to eat lunch. I was surrounded by beautiful lavender primulas that were forming colorful carpets on the forest floor. A small vole climbed up the moss right next to me, startling me a bit. Couldn’t eat much as I was exhausted climbing the steep 1000 meters (3200 feet) with all my heavy camera gear, but with more to go. After lunch I walked slowly and continued to ascend in the rain, ahead of the porters, guide and Stan and Ethan. Nearing the pass summit the heavy rain turned into a snow storm on the

exposed ridge packed with wind-swept rhododendrons. Got into a foot of deep fresh snow and nothing but rhododendron thickets. Surprised two beautiful turquoise male monals up close, admiring their color and iridescent metallic blue backs. Also saw the blander brown female.

Flowering rhododendrons, cliffs below pass, barking deer

Forest of Abies , Himalayan fir, hemlock, rhododendron forest with flowering primulas

Monal pheasant male left, female right

Long-tailed minivet, Spot-winged rosefinch in rhododendrons

Rhododendrons in bloom, Musk deer watching carefully before it fled

Himalayan goral, yellow throated weasel

View from below the pass just as a severe lightning storm moves in bringing snow By now the snow was really blowing in a horizontal wind and it was hard work to ascend the final ridge to the pass. There was a brief clearing and I waited for 45 minutes under dark grey skies in the wind for the group to catch up to me. The blizzard again opened up full force as Stan Ethan and our guide caught up, and we all crossed over Haspokhari pass (4150m), while lightning flashed and thunder rolled across the lower ridge, not a good place to be exposed. The trail disappeared under the fresh snow, but now on the north side we had to posthole and plow through the previous days 4-foot deep snow drifts. Minima, the young porter from Ghunza hired to help caught up with us and guided us through the descent of the ridge in open snow gullies and rhody thickets, with all of us trying to find the trail. So cold and stinging snow in the eyes, we continued to fight the drifts and wind swept free areas while thunder and lightning cracked and lit up the ridge. There were lightning strikes not far from us, scary conditions amidst hard hitting snow in high winds hissing through the trees. We found the trail, a hacked-out tunnel that wove though the rhododendron thickets, and it got us out of the wind. The trail was slippery as it led us another 500 meters 1500 feet) lower into a bamboo and rhododendron forest. Now raining hard at the lower elevation, I was dry in my climbing parka, but soaked from the waist down. Everyone

Haspokhari pass (4150m) just before the lightning and snow storm hit full force

Descending through a rhododendron forest, blood pheasants was soaked. I went ahead of Stan and Ethan, and the porter who knew this area, led me to our camp. Now in the Yangma Khola valley, and just 30 minutes before dark, we came to a small yak clearing for grazing on a steep slope, with a stone wall for shelter. But it was packed with yak crap. I mean packed. Our tents would not carry a new odor.

Stan and Ethan caught up but were exhausted, but for some reason I had energy now that I was at a lower elevation. No porters, and our guide wisely stayed with them as it was treacherous conditions. I pitched both my tent and helped with Stans tent in yak poop on a steep slope where there was really no room. Everything soaked. I had my gear, so we all crawled into Stan’s tent and I shared my sleeping bag and warm gear with Stan, who was shaking and hypothermic praying the porters would make it. it was now dark, and I kept checking outside for an hour before we finally saw flashlights in the forest above. we thanked the lord for their safety. I got out and helped them set up the rest of the tents and camp. So thankful for their arrival. We had heated up water on the kerosene stove and drank ramen soup. Everyone safe, but a wet night as it poured rain, some leaking into my tent. Not the best day of the trip ha-ha. The weather was getting us down, but I was concerned for Stan, and so glad to rest.