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AAC Publications Johnson Mountain, True Believers Zion National Park Over the course of several years, with myriad different partners, I established a new route on Johnson Mountain (6,120’), just south of the Watchman formation in Zion National Park. True Believers (800’, III+ 5.11 C2) follows an obvious corner system on the mountain’s north face and climbs 500’ of technical terrain, with another 300’ of scrambling to the summit. After initially scoping the line from the valley in 2014, Ethan Newman, Rob Warden, and I headed up for a closer look. We climbed to pitch three all free, via fun and varied crack climbing, but the lack of proper kit (ball nuts) to surmount a roof on pitch three forced us to retreat. A number of other attempts followed, with similar equipment mishaps. Ethan, Joel Enrico, and I took the route to the large ledge at the end of the technical climbing in the fall of 2014. Above the roof on pitch three, the rock got significantly softer and became much more survival climbing than fun rock climbing. Alan Thorne, Al Lapinski, and I finally took the route to Johnson’s summit in June 2016. The name refers to an article about Zion climbing written by Bryan Bird in Rock and Ice and titled "True Believers." – Steffan Gregory

Johnson Mountain, True Believerspublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214512.pdf · Johnson Mountain, True Believers Zion National Park Over the course of several years,

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Page 1: Johnson Mountain, True Believerspublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214512.pdf · Johnson Mountain, True Believers Zion National Park Over the course of several years,

AAC Publications

Johnson Mountain, True BelieversZion National Park

Over the course of several years, with myriad different partners, I established a new route onJohnson Mountain (6,120’), just south of the Watchman formation in Zion National Park. TrueBelievers (800’, III+ 5.11 C2) follows an obvious corner system on the mountain’s north face andclimbs 500’ of technical terrain, with another 300’ of scrambling to the summit.

After initially scoping the line from the valley in 2014, Ethan Newman, Rob Warden, and I headed upfor a closer look. We climbed to pitch three all free, via fun and varied crack climbing, but the lack ofproper kit (ball nuts) to surmount a roof on pitch three forced us to retreat. A number of otherattempts followed, with similar equipment mishaps. Ethan, Joel Enrico, and I took the route to thelarge ledge at the end of the technical climbing in the fall of 2014. Above the roof on pitch three, therock got significantly softer and became much more survival climbing than fun rock climbing. AlanThorne, Al Lapinski, and I finally took the route to Johnson’s summit in June 2016. The name refers toan article about Zion climbing written by Bryan Bird in Rock and Ice and titled "True Believers."

– Steffan Gregory

Page 2: Johnson Mountain, True Believerspublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214512.pdf · Johnson Mountain, True Believers Zion National Park Over the course of several years,

Images

Johnson Mountain in Zion National Park, showing the line of True Believers (III+ 800’ 5.11 C2). SteffanGregory and various partners completed the route to the summit over several seasons.

Rob Warden coming up the third pitch of True Believers (800’, III+ 5.11 C2) on Johnson Mountain inZion National Park. Steffan Gregory and a variety of partners completed the route in June 2016 afterseveral attempts.

Page 3: Johnson Mountain, True Believerspublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214512.pdf · Johnson Mountain, True Believers Zion National Park Over the course of several years,

Joel Enrico cruising up typical varied Zion terrain on pitch five of True Believers (800’, III+ 5.11 C2) onJohnson Mountain.

Alan Thorne on the Daley Splitter, a one-pitch variation to True Believers (III+, 800’ 5.11 C2) onJohnson Mountain. Steffan Gregory and several partners completed the route to the summit over thecourse of several seasons.

Page 4: Johnson Mountain, True Believerspublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214512.pdf · Johnson Mountain, True Believers Zion National Park Over the course of several years,

Topo for True Believers (800’, III+ 5.11 C2) on Johnson Mountain. Steffan Greg-ory and severaldifferent partners attempted the route over the course of several seasons, finally taking it to thesummit in spring of 2017.

Page 5: Johnson Mountain, True Believerspublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214512.pdf · Johnson Mountain, True Believers Zion National Park Over the course of several years,

Article Details

Author Steffan Gregory

Publication AAJ

Volume 60

Issue 92

Page 0

Copyright Date 2018

Article Type Climbs and expeditions