Jeweller September 2012

JewellerAug/Sept 2012 £7.50 The Voice of The Industry

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With input from theBritish Jewellers’ Association

Showing OffCountdown to IJL 2012

Faking ItThe challenge set by synthetic diamonds

Future TrendsDesign directions for the year ahead

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The Voice of the Industry 3

Contents & Contacts |

Future Trends 44

Three prediction houses offer their take on

design directions for 2013

Show’s Promise 50

A preview of the events and launches at IJL next month,

including the new KickStarters line-up

The Wolf at the Door 75

Gem-A’s Jack Ogden looks at the challenges

presented by synthetic diamonds

The Height of Refinement 84

Belinda Morris visits Buxton-based Capella to learn

about the feather in its refining cap

C O N T E N T S A U G / S E P T 1 2

The National Association

of Goldsmiths

78a Luke Street,

London EC2A 4XG

Tel: 020 7613 4445

www.jewellers-online.org

Editor: Belinda Morris

Tel: 01692 538007

[email protected]

BJA Marketing & PR Manager:

Lindsey Straughton

[email protected]

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Sales Director: Ian FrancisTel: 020 7613 4445Fax: 020 7729 [email protected]

Publishing Enquiries/Classified Advertising: Neil [email protected]

Art Director: Ben [email protected]

Contributors:Mary Brittain, Miles Hoare,Mélina Leprince-Ringuet, JackOgden, Greg Valerio, Jo Young

The Jeweller is published by the National Association ofGoldsmiths for circulation to members. For more informationabout The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has metacceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are forguidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in TheJeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

Communiqué 4

Editor’s Letter 7

Industry News 8

NAG News 22

Member of the Month 24

Education & Training 27

IRV Review 30

Show Report 32

BJA News 35

BJA Feature 38

Brand Profile 42

Legal 78

BJA Feature 80

Insurance 82

Ethical 86

Security 88

Antique Jewellery 90

Notebook 94

Display Cabinet 96

The Last Word 98

JewellerThe Voice of The Industry www.thejewellermagazine.com

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Cover ImageIn conjunction with

International Jewellery London

2nd - 5th September 2012Earls Court 2, London

wwwjewellerylondon.com

Engage first gearI had a period of political overdrive thismonth. Over two days I was firstly at aHouse of Commons breakfast with guestspeaker Baroness Royall of Blaisdon, shadowleader of the Lords; not unexpectedlyexpressing some forthright views about theshortcomings of government support forsmall business. Later it was the Foreign andCommonwealth Office for discussions onthe Kimberley Process, some feedback onthe intermediate meeting held under thechairmanship of the USA, and some difficultquestions about the future. The followingmorning it was a breakfast meeting withGaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO, wholater also proved an enthusiastic participantin our joint NAG/BJA Ethics Working Group, lending the support of the WorldJewellery Confederation.

Next up Portcullis House, the politicalanthill opposite the Houses of Parliament,for a seminar convened by Anne-Marie MorrisMP, Conservative representative for theNewton Abbot constituency and chair of theAll Party Parliamentary Micro Business Group.The discussion was the shortcomings of themajor lending institutions and the alternativesthat are emerging to service the needs ofthe business community.

Remarkably, about 90 per cent of businesslending still comes from the big banks, andmost SME businesses don’t look beyondthem. However, the requirement for banksto hold more capital to offset their liabilitiesis affecting their ability to lend, and participants felt that the ‘sound bite’ initiativesannounced by government aren’t having animpact. Funding expansion is one thing, formany the real problem is not ‘new’ financebut ‘re-financing’ or maintaining existingfunding, with banks calling in or re-structuringoverdraft facilities. But adversity has beenthe mother of invention, and small businesses have turned to credit cards,bridging loans, asset finance, peer-to-peerlenders, and business angels for short termfunds – sometimes on unfavourable terms.Reassuringly, commercial finance, unregulatedby the FSA, has flourished in recent yearsand we heard from one association thatrepresents 80 different accredited lendersincluding banks and businesses with innovative models like crowd funding thatcould assist. The clear message that emergedwas that small businesses should not bedeterred by their first ‘no’ from the bank but seek assistance to re-structure and represent their requirements. The result maybe more positive than they expect!

Safer neighbourhoodsI’ve heard innumerable speeches in my time,but you cannot fail to pay attention whenyour guest speaker begins, “My husbandGarry was murdered in Warrington on 12thAugust 2007 when he went out barefoot toremonstrate with people vandalising my car.It was the start of my journey to the Houseof Lords as someone who could speak forvictims, but also the start of a life sentenceof regrets; a lifetime of ‘what if’ and ‘whatmight have been’. A gang of youths kickedhim repeatedly in the head and are nowserving time for murder.”

Since Garry’s death, his widow has campaigned against the UK’s binge-drinkculture, calling for better training for landlordsand bar staff. In November 2008, our speaker,then known simply as Mrs Newlove, went onto set up Newlove Warrington – a community-based charity with the aim of making thetown a safer and better place to live. Hervision was to improve facilities and increaseopportunities for the children in the com-munity, through better education and theteaching of key life skills. The three campaigngoals were to inspire people to lead morepurposeful lives, to motivate them to enrichtheir lives and to provide opportunities forpositive interaction with communities. In

M I C H A E L H O A R E ’ S

CommuniquéPositive news on the more helpful lending institutions, creatingsafer neighbourhoods, investing in training through apprenticeshipsand the excitement that’s building for the Loughborough Conference,have all been front of Michael Hoare’s mind this month.

| Comment

4 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2012

May 2010 she was given a peerage in the Dissolution Honours listand became Rt. Honourable Baroness Helen Newlove, subsequentlyto work with the Department for Communities and Local Governmentas a champion for active safer communities.

The occasion was the British Security Industry Association AnnualLunch and Sir Hugh Orde OBE QPM, awarded prizes to the G4Sdiversity team for their contribution to the community; Oliver Moodythe apprentice installer of the year; Alan Duckworth of G4S who wasslashed about the arms while preventing the theft of the cash cassettehe was delivering; and David Holland who, while on his way to work,restrained a man who was intending to jump from a bridge. All civilianoperatives despite current criticism of the private sector!

Living lives at several steps removed from the brutalities faced by others, security can sometimes feel like an ‘intellectual’ exercise,but the reality is these people are the ones who actually have to face the robber – and do something about it! I don’t think anyonein the room would have failed to respond when the Baroness challenged “all present to help realise the dream of safer, healthier,and happier neighbourhoods.”

Apprentices on paradeOver time we have had a number of requests from Members forinformation about apprenticeship schemes and how their businesscan get involved. In the past there have always been stumblingblocks, and although we always wanted to get involved we never feltsatisfied that SMEs were properly catered for. For their part Membersalso felt nervous about the quality of trainees available and makinga long term commitment. However the NAG is now working withthe Retail Apprenticeship Training Agency Skillsmart to provide asolution. Our education and training manager, Victoria Wingate, gottogether with Skillsmart’s Neil Moss recently to thrash out the detailsof a new pilot scheme that will allay most jewellers’ concerns aboutengaging an apprentice for the first time.

Initially we would like to hear from jewellers in Central London,Derbyshire, the North East, Manchester, South & West Yorkshire andthe South West. If interested email: [email protected] the first instance. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

Longing for LoughboroughStudying the Loughborough Conference brochure, I have to say thatSandra Page and the IRV have excelled themselves this time.Loughborough is a regular diary date for a loyal ‘hard core’ of jewellers and valuers, however this year the initiative reaches its25th birthday and to mark the occasion, not only has the dinnergone all ‘black tie’ but the list of contributors has gone stratosphericwith big names like Alastair Dickenson Eric Knowles, GrantMacdonald, and Robert Turner. I won’t list all the highlights of theevent here as the brochure runs to ten pages of treats (email Sandrato request a copy at: [email protected]) but further detailscan be found in IRV Review on page 30.

Please email: [email protected] for further informationabout any of the issues discussed above.


Comment |


Comment |

I’ve never been much interested in watching sports on TV, but I have surprised even myself

with how mesmerising I have found the efforts of Team GB (as well as those of the likes of

Bolt of course). But while I’ve been studying form, power and technique (yes, really, I have)

I’ve also found myself drawn to more personal details. Like jewellery. Well, it’s my job.

Anyway, it’s fascinated me how many athletes, men as well as women, wear it… while

they’re competing. And not just subtle little studs or a pinky ring, but long, dangly, chunky chains

and pendants. They don’t even tuck them into their singlets before leaving the starting

blocks. Great for the industry of course, but surely it must be a distraction or hindrance? Well,

clearly not, or they wouldn’t wear them, I suppose. I must lay my hands on an athlete (any

would do) to get the low-down.

And while on the subject of The Games… how were they for you? Did they live up to the

promise of the shopping bonanza as tourists and locals alike flocked to the key Olympic

centres? Did you get shot (no pun intended) of those souvenir-type charms? Were sales of

red, white and blue enamelled cufflinks on track (pun definitely intended)? I’d love to get your

feedback on the summer of (Brit) love.

Meanwhile we have 2013 to look towards and to get you in the mood for thinking

ahead there’s our Future Trends feature (p44) and IJL Preview (p50). The former may seem,

at first reading, esoteric, head-in-the-clouds stuff, but these predictions (if you pare away

the fashion speak) have a funny way of coming good in due course – albeit in less extreme

or idiosyncratic forms. As for our edited overview of what to expect at Earl’s Court at the

forthcoming show – it simply goes to prove what talent there is out there and what a diverse

and exciting body of work is being produced to whet the appetite.

Roll on IJL. See you there!

Page 75

Page 50

Editor’sLetter

This month:

Many jewellers buyingdiamonds probably still carry on as theyhave done for years,hoping that fate smiles on them…”

“Events where we meetthe people behind the jewellery are so important for retailers likeus who don’t stock bigmainstream brands…”

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jewelleror any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: [email protected]

| Industry News


The jury is still out on the question ofwhether the Olympic Games has had a

positive effect on sales for jewellery retailers,but the KPMG/British Retail Consortium’sretail sales monitor for July 2012 suggestsotherwise. UK retail sales values were up 0.1per cent on a like-for-like basis from July2011, when they were up 0.6% on a yearago. On a total basis, sales were up 2.0 percent, against a 2.5 per cent rise in July 2011.

Online (including mail-order and phone)sales of non-food items showed strongergrowth, up 15.6 per cent against growth of9.6 per cent last year. This marks thestrongest growth this year.

While a PR spokesperson at Links ofLondon reported that its Westfield Stratfordstore “has been very busy and really enjoyingthe buzz and atmosphere” with “the Official

Jewellery Collection of London 2012… selling exceptionally well there as you mightimagine” trade is less buoyant elsewhere inthe area. “We’ve been enjoying the Olympics,but sales figures are down,” said Jayant Ranigaof PureJewels in Green Street – a stone’sthrow from the Olympic park.

“Our customers felt that it was not worthcoming into the area during the Olympicsfor fear of traffic and congestion. However,the roads have been quieter than normaland access has been even easier. So all the scaremongering actually frightened thecustomers away unnecessarily. Also, theadded restrictions on parking in the area didnot help,” he added.

While Thomas Sabo noticed a rise in itsfigures compared to last year, the Germanbrand with a shop in Westfield Stratford didn’t

perceive a “drastic Olympic effect”. “We’resatisfied with the figures of the last coupleof weeks even though short notice changesof opening hours weren’t very helpful inboosting trade,” said UK MD Harald Winzer.“We expected a bit more from the Olympictrading but most of the people just go to the games or for food & drinks rather thanfocusing on shopping.”

Commenting on the BRC report, directorgeneral Stephen Robertson said: “With onlythe opening couple of days of the OlympicGames covered by these statistics we’llhave to wait a while to assess the overallimpact on retail sales. Let’s hope Team GB keeps on increasing its medal tally,bringing a feel good factor that helps consumer confidence.”

However, at buying group CMJ’s AutumnTrade Event, held in Birmingham just as the Games were closing, the mood amongmembers and suppliers was buoyant. It wasgenerally felt that the mood of optimism in the country that the Olympics had engendered would surely have a positiveeffect on trade in the months to come.

No medals (yet) forsummer sales figures

Goldsmiths’ awards for New DesignersLast month The Goldsmiths’ Company gave two awards at New Designers 2012, the annual

showcase of work from Britain’s leading graduate designers representing the best in contemporary design.

As well as presenting the two awards the Goldsmiths’ Companyalso sponsored the Jewellery and Precious Metalwork Zone at theevent for the ninth consecutive year and had a stand in the centreof the Zone offering students information on the new Goldsmiths’Centre with the facilities and opportunities it presents, as well asgiving technology assistance and details on hallmarking requirements.

The two awards were granted for excellence – one for jewelleryand one for silver. The criterion for both the awards is to identifyexcellence in design and craftsmanship. The winning pieces haveto show superlative design, originality and sales potential.

Lorna Watson said: “There was a really strong show this year, with an encouraging mix ofcreativity, craftsmanship and commerciality. However Marie Johnstone of Duncan &Jordanstone College of Art & Design was singled out for the Jewellery Award because of her

ability to demonstrate a sense of whimsy and playfulness in tan-dem with strong making skills.” Her collection, featuring humeroustoy-like pieces, is entitled ‘Come to Your Senses’. The Silver prizewent to Noeleen Logue of the National College of Art & Design inDublin, whose work entitled ‘It’s What’s Inside that Counts’ consistsof one off hand-raised sculptural forms using traditional silver-smithing raising techniques.

Past Prime Warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company Mr GrantMacdonald presented the winners with a prize of £1,500, made up ofa cheque of £1,000 plus precious metal to the value of £500.

Rox opensEdinburgh store

Luxury Scottish jewellery store Rox hasannounced it is opening its first boutique

in Edinburgh, investing £1m to create a new2,500 sq ft jewellery and watch destinationand 12 new jobs. The latest, opening in the newly redeveloped Assembly RoomsEdinburgh on George Street, will be thejeweller’s fifth boutique to date and will follow in the footsteps of its flagship ArgyllArcade store which boasts an exclusiveMöet sponsored champagne bar in its ‘ThrillRoom’ which is frequented by celebrities,VIPs and sports stars.

Award winning interior design businessGraven Images, responsible for the awardwinning Missoni Hotel in Edinburgh, hasbeen commissioned to lead the fit-out programme. Work will begin on-site inSeptember with the new boutique expectedto open towards the end of October in timefor the Christmas shopping rush.

Kyron Keogh, MD of ROX, said: “We havebeen looking for a great space in Edinburghfor quite some time now and we are excitedto be opening in the Assembly Rooms.

MarieJohnstone

NoeleenLogue


Industry News |

S N I P P E T SAttempted burglary of Suffolk-based NAG member

Police in Felixstowe, Suffolk are appealingfor information in relation to an attemptedburglary at NAG member Hill’s the Jewellersin Felixstowe. On 9th August a member ofstaff reported that their window had beensmashed and two men had been seen running away from the shop. Both aredescribed as being in their 20s, around 5’10” tall and both in padded Barbour-stylejackets. Initial reports are that the windowheld in place and nothing has been stolenfrom the family-owned business. A hammerhas been recovered from the scene.

Expansion for Jeremy Hoye

Brighton-based jewellery retailer anddesigner Jeremy Hoye has revealed that heplans to open 10 new stores around the UKand the expansion kicks off with a shop inTunbridge Wells which will open before thisChristmas. Arriving 18 years after Hoyeopened his first shop, the design of the newone will adopt the rebranded Jeremy Hoyecolours of black and gold – a revampedlook “with a more grown-up feel” accordingto Hoye.

Folli Follie joins CMJ

The Folli Follie Group, which includesaward-winning British jewellery brand Linksof London, has become an approved supplier to the Company of MasterJewellers and launched its Autumn/Winter 2012 collections exclusively at theCMJ Autumn Trade Event this month. Heldin Birmingham, the Event was the CMJ’slargest to date with 100 exhibitors showcasing new lines in three buying halls,including Converse watches which joinedearlier this year.

Positive shopfitting figures

A survey conducted by the Shop & DisplayEquipment Association has revealed that its members’ sales are increasing. Exactly60 per cent of respondants registered anincrease in sales – averaging 13 per cent –over the last six months, compared with the same period last year. Almost half were confident of increased sales for thenext 12 months.

Team changes atWeston BeamorWeston Beamor, the Birmingham-based casting house and rapid-prototyping service,

has changed its management team and employed a further member of staff. The appointments herald a programme of investment and expansion for the company which is part of the WB Creative Jewellery Group.

Glen Day, who was previously productionmanager at the firm’s sister company Domino,has been promoted to become businessmanager with overall responsibility for theday-to-day management of the company.Day has worked in the jewellery industry forthe past 27 years and prior to joining WBwas employed by Gecko and Signet.

Ed Hole, who was previously working as a CAD designer within Weston Beamor, has beenpromoted to become head of CAD and rapid prototyping and is tasked with developing furtherthe range of jewellery production services offered by the company. Hole joined WB shortly aftergraduating from Loughborough University where he took a BA Hons degree in Industrial Design.

Hole’s position in the five-strong CAD design team he now heads has been filled by SarahPhillips who has joined the company from the Hatton Garden retailer Beverley Hills Group,where she previously created bespoke CAD designs for customers. Phillips has a had a glittering design career having won, among other awards, a Goldsmiths’ Company DesignBursary to support her studies at Sheffield Hallam University where she did a degree inJewellery and Metalwork.

“My task and that of my entire team is to ensure that we fully understand our customers’needs and that we offer them the services they are looking for as quickly and efficiently aspossible,” said Day. “We are already exploring ways in which our lead times can be improvedand have embarked upon a programme of further investment in the latest production technologies. We will be showing our latest acquisition – a 3D scanner which we believe isthe only one currently being used for jewellery production in the UK and which undoubtedlyopens up a whole raft of new production possibilities to our customers – at IJL. This is justthe start of an exciting period of development for the business,” he added.

MBO at Green + Benz

Independent contemporary retail jewellers, Green + Benz, has been sold to a managementbuy-out team, led by the company’s incumbent managing director Helen Dimmick, for an

undisclosed sum. She will take a controlling stake in the business and is joined on the newboard by the company’s current finance and operations director, Mark Williams and chairmanof T.H. Baker, Alan Higgs.

NAG member Green + Benz, which was founded in 1991 by Shane Green and Julie Benzin 1991, has four stores in Manchester, Sheffield and Chesterfield employing 31 staff,appointed Dimmock in October 2010. Previously she worked for The Company of MasterJewellers and Tiffany & Co.

“Green + Benz is in excellent shape; the great relationship with our suppliers ensures weconstantly anticipate retail trends and the dedication and loyalty of our staff is second-to-none. To lead the management buy-out of such a prestigious and well-respected retail jewellery business is a truly wonderful opportunity,” said Dimmock.

“Of course we will not rest on our laurels, and plans are in place to increase the turnoverof the business in the next five years with store developments, expanding product rangesand services and online technology all avenues that will be explored further,” she added.

Ed Hole and Glen Day

| Industry News


S N I P P E T STeam change at NAG

Following the departure of Stacy Simpson –who has joined the IJL team as marketingexecutive – the NAG is pleased to announcethe appointment of Charley Torr as marketingand communications officer. Torr joins the Association from the Total Jobs Groupwhere she gained experience in events, PRand sales communication and support.

Clogau achieves RJC certification

The Responsible Jewellery Council hasannounced that Clogau Gold has justachieved certification by meeting the highest ethical, social and environmentalstandards established by the RJC’s MemberCertification system. The company follows in the recent footsteps of newly certifiedChristian Dior Couture and luxury watchbrand Hublot, plus 16 other gem and jewellery businesses.

Jewellery conference line-up

Gem A’s Jack Ogden, who will be talkingabout the Cheapside Hoard, is among animpressive line-up of guest speakers at the7th Annual Conference of the Associationfor the Study of Jewelry & Related Arts in New York. For details of the subjects, speakers and the event itself which will be taking place on 7th October, 2012 visit:www.jewelryconference.com

Rock Vault Dozen at LFW

The British Fashion Council, in collaborationwith the International Palladium Board, hasannounced the jewellery designers whohave been asked to design a ring using upto one ounce of palladium. The rings will beshown in an exhibit as part of the BFC’sjewellery initiative Rock Vault during LondonFashion Week this September. Among thedesigners are Alexandra Jefford, HannahMartin, Hillier and Imogen Belfield.

Jewellery line for Katie Price

Model and TV presenter Katie Price launchedher jewellery line, Day 22, at Moda at theNEC last month. The 60-piece range,designed with costume jewellery labelLemonade includes collections for men andchildren as well as for women.

Two awards in onenight for NAG memberFamily jewellers Allum & Sidaway, with stores in Shaftesbury, Gillingham, Dorchester,

Salisbury and Ringwood, has been presented with two awards recognising achievementin business on the same night. Management and staff were split in order to attend the twoaward ceremonies in late June as the NAG member scooped the South Wilts Business ofthe year award for best retailer, and the first Blackmore Vale Business of the Year award.

The Blackmore Vale Business of the Year Award was presented to a business that has notonly increased potential but has also had a positive impact on the economy as a whole. “Thepast year has presented great challenges to the business community but we have shown apositive year on year turnover which we believe can only be put down to our brands, performance, customer service and award winning staff,” said MD Jason Allum.

“We are absolutely thrilled to receive these awards. We believe that we have reached apinnacle of success through hard work, outstanding achievements, expansion of locationsand an investment in beautiful designer jewellery collections. To be recognised by theBlackmore Vale and the South Wilts business community with these exceptional and prestigiousawards during our 70th anniversary year is a wonderful accolade for our hard work and success”.

Chamilia chooses BransomPersonalised jewellery and accessories brand Chamilia has announced that it has chosen

Bransom Retail Systems as its preferred partner. The agreed partnership deal betweenthe two businesses involves collecting sales information from stockists using the Bransomsystem and compiling KPI statistics for Chamilia. For Chamilia stockists that do not currentlyuse the Bransom EPoS System special introductory terms are on offer.

Bransom’s exclusive bsmart-Links product, which is used by a growing number of jewellerysuppliers to deliver product and price updates to their stockists, will be deployed to managethe automatic collection of sales statistics to help the brand understand the sell through success rate and help with the development of new products.

Chris Garland, MD of Bransom said, “Chamilia are an extremely successful brand who arekeen to work with their retailers to drive consumer sales. We are very excited to be chosen byChamilia as their preferred partner and will work hard with their retailers to make this projecta success; it is an excellent opportunity for Bransom clients to work with a major brand.”

| Industry News


S N I P P E T SNew brands for MDS

MDS Consulting, headed by Mark Sutcliffe(who also runs Swiss Watch Repair) hasannounced that he has taken on three distribution brands: Australian stainlesssteel jewellery company Cudworth; Zurich-based SevenFriday watches and the Swiss-German Hanhart which makes preci-sion watches and stop watches for aviators and racers.

Certified diamond price drop

A Rapaport Research Report shows that certified polished diamond prices fell in Julyas trading continued to slow amid ‘weakeconomic sentiment’. Far East buyers havegrown cautious and Indian suppliers areunder pressure while liquidity remains tight.Buyers are avoiding large purchases whilesuppliers are adjusting to lower prices.Rough inventories are rising as polishedtrading volume declined and sightholdersare refusing to buy high-priced De Beersrough diamonds.

New appointment at TJH Dublin

Irish distribution company TJH Ltd hasappointed Robert Eden as sales manager(UK), to lead the Dublin-based company’sentry into the UK market. Eden, who has 15years’ experience in the jewellery industrywill be working with the designer fashionbrand John Rocha as well the Eternal 9ctgold collection and the sterling silver Willow& Cream boutique brand.

Tissot opens mountain boutique

Swiss watch brand Tissort has opened itshighest boutique in the world, by partneringwith The Jungfrau Railway to open a shop atthe mountain’s peak. Visitors reach thesleekly modern store by experiencing Swissrailway history at first hand.

F Hinds opens its111th store in BuryIndependent family jewellers F Hinds has opened a new store in Mill Gate Shopping Centre,

Bury, bringing its total of branches across England and Wales to 111. Bury is the company’ssecond store in the Manchester area with the other located at the Trafford Centre.

The new F. Hinds’ 1,600 square foot store, adjacent to W H Smith, has five full length shopwindows and a bright layout to showcase the extensive range of gold, platinum and silver,diamond and gemstone jewellery, Lladró porcelain and collectibles. In addition, this storeaims to be a magnet for those who appreciate watches – 18 classic and designer brands will be available with Guess, DKNY, Fossil and Police watches and jewellery presented on aspecially designed, high gloss black wood/white shelf display.

The store also features environmentally friendly, energy efficient LED lighting throughout.“We believe this could be the first retail outlet to have LED lighting not only for the shop butalso all the store rooms, staff rest rooms and even the emergency lighting”, comments NeilHinds, F. Hinds’ property director.

In addition to the new store, F Hinds has appointed Underwired, a specialist digital strategyagency, to build its online customer engagement programme. “We have a close relationshipwith many of the customers who use our shops and we want to be able to extend that toprovide the same quality of service to them online,” explained Andrew Hinds. “Our outlookis long term and hard sell is an anathema, so we only want to be in touch if we have something relevant to offer our customers as individuals. We chose Underwired becausetheir approach mirrors ours and because they are straightforward and focused on the simplethings which matter the most.”

Edinburgh Assay Office launcheseCommerce tool

The Edinburgh Assay Office has launched a new eCommerce tool for independent jewellersand jewellery makers, allowing them to capitalise on the booming online retail market

by creating a secure and stylish website in minutes. Designed specifically to meet the needsof small to medium sized enterprises, the new eCommerce package has been developed incollaboration with Powa, a leading global supplier of online trading solutions.

Assay Master and CEO Scott Walter said: “Growth in online jewellery sales now out performs traditional retail sales growth by a considerable margin. Consumers in the UK spent£7.9bn online in the last five weeks of 2011. Unfortunately, the significant upfront costs ofcreating a secure eCommerce enabled website means that smaller, independent jewellerscaptured only a fraction of those sales.

“The Assay Powa platform provides all of the tools necessary to create your own retail website quickly and easily, with no expert technical knowledge required and minimal upfront costs.The package includes domain name registration and email addresses, a website wizard to

help create a fully customisable website inminutes and a website hosting service.”

The new Assay Powa template includesinbuilt SEO (Search Engine Optimisation)tools and the ability to integrate with existingsites, blogs, social media feeds, direct mailingsolutions and stock inventory systems. Theplatform also has the capability to handleinternational expansion for companies operating existing eCommerce sites.

| Industry News


S N I P P E T SNew Sima Vaziry line at British Museum

Jewellery designer Sima Vaziry has added tothe core range of pieces sold at the BritishMuseum’s shop by supplying a new rangecommissioned in support ofthe ‘Shakespeare: staging theworld exhibition’. The items willbe on display for the durationof the show (from now until25th November, 2012). Thepieces are modern interpre-tations of Tudor jewellery,using red and green gemscombined with silver and24ct gold plating.

Decorative Arts jewellery at Bonhams

Bonhams Los Angeles will be auctioningapproximately 20 pieces of 20th CenturyDecorative Arts jewellery on 1st October2012. Described as ‘wearable miniaturesculptures’ and inspired by modernist architecture and design, the highly collectablepieces are from artists including GeorgJensen, Line Vautrin and Claude Lalanne.Estimates start at $600.

WDC restructuring approved

The newly elected World Diamond Councilboard of directors has given the green lightto a proposal by WDC president Eli Izhakoffthat a steering committee be established tolook at the restructuring of the Council.Membership, financing and admin will beexamined. The board also expressed strongsupport for the reform of the KimberleyProcess and for an expanded definition forconflict diamonds.

Assay Office request

The Birmingham Assay Office has put outan ‘urgent’ call for Birmingham’s creativetalent to design a new name plate for theentrance to its historic building. Designersare being given free reign with their ideasfor the silver plaque which will replace theone stolen from the premises by metalthieves earlier this year. Local bullion dealer The Bullion Room has offered tomanufacture the piece using silver andstudded diamonds.

125th birthday for jewellery firm

Alabaster & Wilson, one of Birmingham’s oldest jewellery firms is celebrating 125 years inbusiness – a span of two jubilees. The company was founded by Arthur Alabaster and

Thomas Wilson on Vyse Street in the same year as the BJA was founded as well as QueenVictoria’s Golden Jubilee celebrations. To commemorate the events of its anniversary year ithas created a selection of specially designed jewellery, including a range of Diamond Jubileeinspired brooches and pendants and a Flame for the 2012 range of enamelled cufflinks.

Over the last 125 years Alabaster & Wilson has manufactured high quality products for manyof the UK’s leading jewellers and also exported across Europe, USA and Australia. It has alsosupplied exclusive pieces for the British Royal Family, the Sultan of Brunei, Roman Abramovich,Eric Clapton, the British Racing Drivers’ Club and Formula One drivers Lewis Hamilton andJenson Button. The firm is also the leading jewellery supplier to the horse racing world.

“We’re in the process of growing our busi-ness aimed at public customers, which willinclude the launch of a new website verysoon,” explained Stephen Alabaster, greatgrandson of co-founder Arthur Alabaster,who runs the business with his brother Pauland sister Wendy. In this matter the compa-ny received support and advice fromaccountancy firm Chantrey Vellacott DFKwhich has represented Alabaster & Wilsonfor the duration of the firm’s history.

Pandora Q2 profitsand revenue fallThe set of results released by Danish jewellery, bead and charm brand Pandora in its

interim report for Q2 2012 have revealed that the Groups’s revenue has decreased by9.5 per cent, falling from DKK 1,392m in Q2 2011 to DKK 1,260m for the same period thisyear. The decrease in Europe is put at 16.6 per cent. Major global expansion plans remainunchanged however.

The reported numbers are in line with expectations says the company, and indicate that,as anticipated, figures were adversely affected by a stock balancing campaign that was launchedearly this year. In Q2 Pandora received returns of DKK 183m worth of discontinued productsand replaced DKK 310.

The report states that excluding the negative impact of the one-off stock balancing campaign 2012 revenue growth is expected to be in mid-single digits and gross margin inthe mid 60s driven by the impact of commodities prices and a reduction in Pandora’s selling prices; and EBITDA margin in the mid 20s.

The company’s revenue assumption is based on the expectation of around 200 new concept stores in 2012, with a particular focus in new markets. It expects to open at least135 new concept stores and shop-in-shops in its key new markets (Italy, France, Russia andAsia) during the course of 2012.

“Our operations continued to develop as expected during the quarter, even with a slightly better gross margin helped by a changed product mix,” commented Pandora CEOBjorn Gulden. “The execution on the stock balancing campaign continued into Q2 2012 and was very well received by our retail partners across all our markets. Even though the stock balancing campaign, short-term, hurts our revenue, cost ratio and profitability in 2012,the campaign has proven to be the right action to help our retailers improve the quality oftheir stock.”

Portamento

The Portamento Collection is an exciting designer collection of

rings which can be worn on their own, or stacked together. The

luxury collection uses diamonds and black diamonds, as well as

precious ruby, blue and pink sapphire and emerald, and semi-

precious amethyst, set in white, rose and yellow gold.

0208 446 9020 I sales @alfredterry.com I www.alfredterry.com

Daydream your design


Industry News |

S N I P P E T SNew Assay Award

The Sheffield Assay Office has workedalongside one of the city’s finest silversmithsto provide the first sterling prize for a newaward to celebrate excellence in innovationwithin the hallmark industry. Carrs Silver created the Touchstone Award, a 12 inchsilver dish worth £3,500, which was presented to inaugural winners BirminghamCity Council by the British Hallmarking Councilfor its campaign in targeting unmarked goodswithin the city’s jewellery community.

HM the Queen receives gift from Birmingham

When The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee tourrolled into Birmingham, the Queen wasgiven a silver bowl designed and made bythe Jewellery Quarter-based silversmithAndrew Macgowan. The gift was presentedon behalf of the citizens of the city by BBCpresenter Kay Alexander, in her role aschairman of the Birmingham Assay Office.

Big Ben moves to Zurich

No, not really… it just looked that waywhen Mondaine, maker of the official Swiss Railway Watch, transformed theZurich Station meeting point clock into a10m high replica of the London landmark.The clock served as the rallying point forSwiss televised coverage of the London2012 Olympics.

Olympic torch honour for BeaverbrooksMark Adlestone, chairman of Beaverbrooks ran through Liverpool with the Olympic flame,

having been chosen for the honour by the Games’ official timekeeper Omega. At a special event held at Beaverbrooks’ Omega Boutique in The Trafford Centre shortly after therelay, Adlestone presented a cheque for £1,000 to the East Lancashire Hospice, after hearingof one particular runner’s story.

Before setting off on the 300m sprint, Adlestone met 16-year old Caitlin Jones who has arare genetic disorder – Goldenhar Syndrome, symptoms of which include a hearing impairment,autism and a heart condition, as well as special educational needs and asthma. Caitlin alsosuffers from panic attacks when in crowds and therefore has had to work hard at managingher state. Despite this, the teenager has raised over £26,000 for cancer charities, having losther father to the disease four years ago. Before his death he was nursed at the Hospice.

“I was very drawn to Caitlin”, says Mark.“She has raised so much money and awareness and I really wanted Beaverbrooksto support her. Prior to us running, Caitlinwas very anxious, so I told her that I wouldmake a donation on the condition that sherelax and enjoy her moment with theOlympic Flame, which she did and Caitlinwas supported throughout the day byDenise Gee from the Hospice.”

Following Mark’s Olympic experience, the torch was taken to Beaverbrooks’ officeand to some of the stores, so team memberscould have a closer look and have their photos taken with it.

Beverley retailers join forces

NAG member Guest & Philip is among 33 independent retailers in the East Yorkshire market town of Beverley, who have got together to promote themselves. Last month the

group launched a new website – www.independentbeverley.co.uk – designed to celebrateand promote the diverse range of shops in the town to both locals and visitors alike.

As well as contact information and links to the websites of each business, the site featuresa ‘trail’ – a walking tour of the town to make sure that people are taken to the door of everyparticipating retailer. The project has been funded by Amalia Booker, owner of giftware andfurniture store Amanti, who is passionate about keeping independent retail alive in Beverley.

Councillor David Elvidge, chairman of Beverley and Rural Community Partnership welcomesthe arrival of the website. “The independent traders in Beverley are, I believe, the backboneof our local economy,” he said. “They are at the heart of our thriving community, indeed theyare an integral part of our town’s unique character, something that attracts visitors from farand wide to shop within our town and visit us again and again. I wish them all continuedsuccess and would encourage everyone to support local independents.

The retailers, who also include jewellery shops Figaro and Xen Jewellery, hope that otherindependent retailers around the country will find their initiative inspiring, “particularly thosein towns that are suffering in the shadow of retail giants”.

The move comes just before the Government’s announcement of another wave of PortasPilots aimed at reviving the UK’s high streets. The 15 chosen locations include Ashford,Braintree, Morecombe and Tiverton.

| Industry News


Royal Mint talksmedals withChris Evans

Fergus Feeney, the Royal Mint’s programme director for the London

2012 Olympic and Paralympic medals went on air earlier this month to give DJChris Evans the low-down on the Mint’swork. Among the facts revealed: 4,700medals were struck (any left over will bereturned for refining), they are the biggestand heaviest ever made for the Games, the gold and silver medals weigh 412g and each one takes 10 hours to producewith 22 stages and the gold medals aremade of silver and each gilded with around6g of gold.

Tresor Paris ‘Raw’winners announced

Last month three students of Holts Academy in Hatton Garden were announced as thewinners of Tresor Paris’ ‘Raw’ competition. In first place was Rebecca Boatfield whoimpressed the judges with her ‘original and current’ design incorporating pyramid forms. Thesecond prize went to Amy Crockford, with Saima Husain scooping third.

The competition was launched this Spring, the brief asking students to create an originaldesign for the Tresor Paris collection, using the raw materials that the company favours.Boatfield’s design featured magnetite, stainless steel and black Tibetan cord and will now beincluded as a limited edition bracelet in the Tresor Paris collection. The Hatton Garden-basedjewellery company was the recipient of the inaugural Marketing Campaign of the Year category at this year’s UK Jewellery Awards.

KaanaanmaacelebratesJubilee

Wokingham-based fine jewellery makerand NAG member Kaanaanmaa

supported the town’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations by designing and donating a newpiece of civic regalia for Wokingham TownCouncil, joining other items commemoratingsignificant royal and national events.

The hand-made piece, which is valued at£8,000, is an acorn pin in 18ct gold and setwith 1ct of brilliant-cut diamonds, to be wornby the Mayor on official duties. When it is not being worn Kaanaanmaa have made asilver base of acorns, acorn cups and twigs for the pin to sit in to be on display.The pin reflects the Council’s crest and motto E glande quercus – ‘from the acorn, the oak’.

Royal London steps back in timeBritish watch brand Royal London has found a new fan-

base – members of the WWII re-enactment community.Produced by the Condor Group, Royal London was invited toexhibit at last month’s War & Peace Show at Paddock Wood,Kent and caused a stir with its faithfully rendered 1930s and’40s style timepieces.

Following the exposure at the show Royal London receivedfurther endorsement for its vintage replicas from the DameVera Lynn Trust for Children with Cerebral Palsy, with whomthe company intends to collaborate on its next Vintage range.The company has already donated a percentage of salesmade at War & Peace to the Trust.

Speaking of the project, Royal London’s head of UK sales & marketing David Stokes said:“It’s in the very early stages of discussion but nonetheless an exciting project for the future andwe’re really looking forward to working with such a wonderful and historic British charity”.


STAINLESS STEEL & LEATHER

| Industry News


Surrey family jewellers Warrenders has hadthe honour of playing host to an official

Olympic torch throughout the duration of theLondon Olympic and Paralympic Games.The torch went on display in its Sutton Storeon 27th July.

The torch is on loan at Warrenders fromone of the three Sutton residents chosen as Olympic torchbearers, Lauren Sullivan.Lauren, who has achondroplasia, a form ofdwarfism, was nominated to be a torchbearerfor her inspirational sporting achievements.Through swimming she has been able to seebeyond her disability and accomplish greattriumphs. This year in the DSE Junior National

Disability Championships she won three goldmedals, and her most recent success wasbreaking the minute on 50m freestyle to gaina qualifying time for the British Internationalscompetition. Lauren won the Sutton disabledsportsperson of the year award in July 2011,and is a Paralympic hopeful for 2016.

Lauren is the sister of Warrenders salesassistant Kirsten Sullivan, who joined theteam this May. The store will be donating£215; the cost of the torch, to Lauren’s chosen charity, the Dwarf Sports Associationwhich enables equal opportunities fordwarves to compete fairly against oneanother in a variety of different sports.

Warrenders housesOlympic torch

Russian roughdiamond auction held

Russia’s largest diamond company,Alrosa, conducted its first-ever auction

of large, rough diamonds last month. Heldin New York the sale saw more than 80 percent of the goods on offer sold. It featured51 rough diamonds ranging from very fine to commercial quality, in sizes thatranged from 11 carats to almost 80 carats.The highlight of the by-invitation-only auction were two gem-quality rough diamonds weighing 57.47 and 79.65 caratsrespectively, which sold for several millionUS dollars each. The sale was the outcomeof a series of talks initiated by the DiamondManufacturers & Importers Association ofAmerica. The total sales sum of the auction and the identity of the buyers hasnot been revealed.

Bucks jewellers to closeAfter 143 years in business, NAG member Bucks Jewellers of Hanley, Stoke on Trent is to

close as the Buck family retires from the business. The store will close its doors for thefinal time on Christmas Eve this year. In the meantime, all stock is being reduced by up to50 per cent.

Established in 1869 by Arthur Frederick Buck, the store was managed latterly by LaurenBuck after her father, Philip, was diagnosed with cancer in 2009. In the 1960s FA BuckJeweller’s became the first and only Rolex agent in Staffordshire and remained so until this year. In 2008 the store underwent a major refurbishment, transforming it from a dark,traditional shop into a contemporary showroom.

New features at Gemworld

As well as the lure of 280 exhibitors from32 countries who will be presenting

gemstones and jewellery at GemworldMunich (26th – 28th October, 2012), theGerman show will, this year, be playing host to the only International ColoredGemstones Association Pavilion in Europe.Organisers also anticipate that cutters fromIdar-Oberstein and numerous providersfrom India, Thailand and Hong Kong willturn the event into the centre of the globaldiamond trade for two days. In additionthere will also be a new Brazilian Pavilionwith exhibitors bringing polished and unpolished stones straight from the mine.

To be a s tock is t www.mdsconsu l t ing .webs.comTel : +44 (0) 20 8749 9906 Emai l : markdav idsutc l i f [email protected]

| NAG News


With September just around the corner,the industry set to experience some of

the best trade events of the year, starting, ofcourse, with International Jewellery London.We’re not just saying this because of thelongstanding relationship between the NAG and London’s premier trade show –but because IJL has an enviable reputationfor a quality event.

Over four days from the 2nd of SeptemberIJL will provide the perfect chance for retailerslooking to buy for Christmas and the comingyear, while also delivering an ideal opportunityto catch an impactive runway show, listen toan inspiring seminar, or discover an up andcoming young designer.

This is a sentiment backed up by IJL’sevent director, Sam Willoughby. “The showis already seen as an essential buying event

in the calendar for top retailers and buyers,across London, the UK and internationally.Amazing designers and brands choose IJLas the time to launch their new collectionsand it provides an optimum opportunity tosource with the busy Christmas periodapproaching, but also with 2013 in mind,”she said. “Retailers find they can keep aheadby visiting IJL, in terms of both new designsand latest trends. With exciting new features,initiatives and names, this year’s show is setto be outstanding.”

We’re especially looking forward to theBJA’s KickStart. It’s a positive initiative thatgives 10 promising designers the chance toshowcase their work and allows retailers andmanufacturers to pick out their potential starsof the future. As always, we’re also excitedabout the Inspiration Theatre, which neverfails to impress with its packed programmeof informative lectures. Once again the NAGis proud to announce that its EthicalWorking Party seminar will be taking placeon 4th September at 15.15 in the InspirationTheatre. And for members who are lookingfor new wares the selection of high quality,design-led jewellery showcased at IJL isunrivalled in the UK. This year promises to be packed with more star brands and

designers such as Jessica de Lotz and AndrewGeoghegan – while also hosting the first IJLWatch Trail with brands like Storm, Since1853 and BQ.

As proud sponsors, the Luke Street teamwill be out in force promoting the benefitsof the Association and discussing jewellers’issues face-to-face. The NAG will also behosting a Summer Drinks Reception onMonday 3rd September in the VictoriaRoom from 2.15pm-3.15pm so please joinus and meet the team, our CEO and thenew chairman Pravin Pattni.

You can find us on the day at Stand I109OR for more information about the NAG atIJL visit our blog at: nag-blog.org

To find out how you can attend IJL visit:www.jewellerylondon.com or call them on:020 8271 2144.

Countdown to IJL

Those of you who read Michael Hoare’sweekly digest The Week That Was on the

new NAG blog, will be aware that we’re currently working hard on preparations forthe NAG’s first Retailer Security Conference.The event, which is scheduled to take place on 16th October at BRE (BuildingResearch Establishment) Watford, will playhost to a number of informative talks, livedemonstrations and networking sessionssurrounding the issues jewellers face whenit comes to crime.

As with any luxury, high-value industry,jewellers deal with crime frequently – andwe only have to look back to the tragicdeath of Peter Avis in January this year to bereminded how important security is for theretail jeweller. But we know too well that

half the battle is finding what protection youneed and then sifting through the manysuppliers out there (and there’s a lot!) tofind what best suits your circumstances. Thisis where the security conference comes in.Firstly, we want jewellers to become betterinformed about the risks they face and secondly, we want them to be able to findcost-effective solutions to their security issues.

With this is in mind, we’ve already enlisteda number of sponsors from the securityindustry to help run the day. Our headlinesponsor is SmartWater Technology whichdelivers customised crime reduction strategies. Working with the major players inthe security industry SmartWater consultsmany large companies on how to plan theirbusiness in a secure way. The conference

will provide a unique insight into theSmartWater approach – and will hopefullyencourage jewellers to think about usingsome of these techniques in their business.

We’re also proud to announce we havespeakers from fogging company Bandit, alive demonstration sponsored by Romagand exhibitions from Insafe International andCheckpoint Systems. All in all it promises tobe an exciting and informative day – sowe’re really looking forward to it. And if allthat wasn’t enough to whet your appetite,this event is free to all NAG members. Yes, FREE!

So if you’re interested in coming along,please contact Ritu Verma on tel: 020 76134445 or email: [email protected] formore information.

Security conference sponsors confirmed


NAG News |

New Member Applications

Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: [email protected] within threeweeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary ApplicationsDavid Jones (Goldsmith & Jeweller), Preston, Lancs

Affiliate ApplicationsSue Trewin, Hemel Hempstead

Neve Jewels Ltd, Hatton Garden

IRV ApplicationsIf members wish to comment on any ofthese, please contact Sandra Page on tel:(029) 2081 3615.

New Member ApplicantsDavid L Goodson PJDip PJValDip FGA DGA,David Lloyd, Ludlow

Last month saw the great and thegood of the UK Jewellery industry

descend on the Grosvenor HouseHotel in London for the Retail JewellerUK Jewellery Awards. Among thoseattendees was our very own chairmanPravin Pattni who joined some 600 keyindustry players in celebrating the personal and professional businessexcellences of the last year.

To his and our delight, Pattni was able to witness several NAG members take home topprizes. In almost all of the award categories NAG members were nominees and many ofthem subsequently left with top honours, as radio and TV star Lauren Laverne announcedthis year’s winners. Overall six member stores picked up prizes in the fifteen categories thatwere contested throughout the evening. These winners included:• Tresor Paris – Marketing Campaign of the Year• Rox – Independent Retailer of the Year• Clogau – Jewellery Brand of the Year• Steffan’s – Jewellery E-tailor of the Year• Beaverbrooks – Retail Employer of the YearAnd Kirstie Rennie from the Glasgow branch of Fraser Hart, who took home the Retail Starof the Year award.

“There was a really good feel at the evening. It was a great celebration and a good opportunity to network within the trade,” commented Prattni. “It was delightful to meet withfriends from the industry, and especially to see so many of our members rewarded for theirhard work. I look forward to doing it all again next year!”

The NAG would like to congratulate all members who walked away with a prize – an indication of their outstanding work, passion, and dedication over the past year. It’s this kindof excellence in the field that has enabled the NAG to endure for many years. Thank you,and long may it continue!

New chairman celebratesUK Jewellery award winners

New NAG websiteunder development

Last year saw both the flagship JET 1 andJET 2 courses take on a new edge, as we

launched our online learning environment– enabling students from across the globeto take these industry-leading courses.

In keeping with this digital streamliningprogramme the NAG is introducing a newwebsite for all things knowledge-related.The new education website is currently beingdeveloped and will be launched later thisyear. The site comes as part of a total revampof the NAG’s digital space which we beganin April with a number of new social mediachannels and our blog (yes, another plug!).

It’s taken a little while for the NAG to getthis far, and as we’re constantly extolling thevirtues of new technology and evolution inbusiness so it’s time to be taking heed of ourown words. We’re really looking forward tothe new education website and all furtherpossible developments in our online sphere.

Here at Luke Street we’ve seen a sneakpreview – and think it looks fabulous!

Win a luxury IJL experience

If you haven’t already heard, now is your your last chance to join the NAG/IJL giveaway. This year the Association is offering two people the chance to enjoy a luxury IJL experience,

courtesy of event organisers Reed Exhibitions. What is a luxury experience you may ask? Well, that’s a closely guarded secret for now.

All will be revealed once the winner is announced. So for your chance to enter simply visitthe NAG Blog at: nag-blog.org or contact Ritu at Luke Street for further details on tel: 0207613 4445 or email: [email protected]

Clogau – Jewellery Brand of the Year Beaverbrooks – Retail Employer of the Year

The company recently won a customerservice award for local businesses; whatmade you stand out from the othernominees and how did the team atMaude’s feel about winning the award?We firmly believe that one of the mostimpressive aspects of our business, and onethat helped us to stand out amongst the othercandidates for the award, is our attitude andrespect towards both our colleagues andcustomers. For us, every day at work is a newchance to share our love of jewellery withthe public. Winning the award only confirmedour commitment to the community and weare so proud of our achievement.

You sell quite a few different jewellerybrands, but with so many names outthere nowadays it must be difficult tochoose between them. What criteria doyou look for when picking those to stock?Choosing the right brands for our customersis incredibly important to us. We regularlyattend various exhibitions like IJL and SpringFair at the NEC to ensure that we are alwaysup to date with the latest designs andbrands. We believe one of the best ways to choose is to involve all of our team atMaude’s so that we are all a part of the brands that we sell. In terms of criteria,we look for innovative design, styles that will suit an array of tastes and pieces that

combine fashion and quality. And we do notunderestimate packaging and point of salewhen judging a brand either! The latter arevery important to customers when buyinggifts, so we take this very seriously. We haverecently taken on the brand ‘Lily & Lotty’.They supply beautiful packaging and displays,which have attracted a lot of positive attentionfrom our customers.

One of the brands you are currently selling is the ‘Help for Heroes’ collectionby Claus Sheelke for Aagaard. Have youfound this range to be popular, and do customers have a different attitudetoward this kind of charitable jewellery?The ‘Help for Heroes’ collection continuallyproves to be a popular brand, both for itsstyle credentials and for the amazing charitythat it supports. The designs are attractiveand appealing to both men and womenwith the variety of clasps available. We alsofind that the customers particularly love thestory that is behind the making of thebracelets – a story based on bravery andcamaraderie. And there is most certainly adifferent attitude towards charitable jewellery.With this brand in particular, the charity inquestion is close to many of our customers’hearts as many seem to know somebody –be it a friend or family member – who isinvolved in some way. The fact that the‘Help for Heroes’ collection now donates 10per cent of every sale to the charity is anextra incentive to buy.

Currently, what would you say was your best selling brand and why do you think this is?As our largest range is Aagaard this has, fora while, been our best selling brand. We feelit incorporates the idea of ‘affordable luxury’for both men and women, with necklacesand bracelets that customers can buildthemselves and collect for occasions. Aagaardare constantly expanding and updating theircollections too, making it quite addictive forjewellery fanatics!

Recently though, we have taken on theCoeur de Lion range, which is certainly provingto be just as popular. The eye-poppingcolours, tactile materials and the fact thatthey look just as good off as they do onmeans that they have been flying off of ourshelves, with people buying sets at a time!

The government is currently trying tohelp new businesses start up during thistough economic climate. As a thrivingand long standing jewellery business,what advice would you give to thoseentrepreneurs looking to start up in the retail jewellery trade?I would say, without doubt, that if you want a jewellery business to be successful,you need absolute commitment. Like anygood business, sacrifices may be necessarybut if you put in every effort you will enjoythe results. A positive outlook is importanttoo, as well as an active relationship with thecommunity; if you treat your customers well,they will come back again and again. Andmake sure you have a bit of fun too – no onelikes a dull window display, so get creative!For Mothers’ Day for example, we filled ourwindows with vintage tea cups, French fanciesand bunting! Everybody loved it.

And finally, could you supply us withyour favourite customer anecdote?When we first launched Aagaard’s ‘Lovelinks’at Maude’s, a valued customer of ours wasunsure about them and reluctant to purchasea bracelet, believing they ‘weren’t for her’.Regardless of this, her husband treated herto one and within weeks she was alreadywell on her way to achieving completion.Years on, this lady now has 15 bracelets andcounting, as well as rings, earrings, andnecklaces too. All Maude’s the Jeweller’s cansay is “Told you so!”

If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month,please write in and tell us why! Send anemail to: [email protected].

Amy Oliver speaks to Andrea Maude of Maude’s The Jewellers inBoston, Lincolnshire. Set up in 1976, the shop has become oneof the most highly regarded jewellery businesses in the county.

NAG Member of the Month| NAG News


NAG RETAIL SECURITY CONFERENCE

TOPICS ON THE AGENDA:Facades & Glazing, Safe Standards, SaferGems, Alarm Transmission, Fogging Systems and Forensic Marking

EXHIBITORS INCLUDE:SmartWater TechnologyBandit UKRomag LtdInSafe International LtdCheckpoint Systems PLUS live Product Demonstrations

Confused about what security equipment is best for business? The choice and technological advances make it difficult to decide. However, some basic standards apply to safes, glass, and alarms that cannot be ignored. That’s why we are working with T H March to let put these standards to the test.

The theme is loss prevention and, with some graphic practical demonstrations, we’ll be having a ‘smashing’ time, so don’t get left out. Book now – it’s free!

MEMBERSHIP BENEFIT: Free to all NAG members!£35+VAT for NON-NAG members

HEADLINE SPONSOR:

TUESDAY 16TH OCTOBER @ BUILDING RESEARCH ESTABLISHMENT, WATFORD

THEME: ‘LOSS PREVENTION’

HOSTED BY THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS IN CONJUNCTION WITH TH MARCH

CONTACT THE NAG ON: Email: [email protected] Tel: 020 7613 4445 Web: www.jewellers-online.org

BOOST STAFF CONFIDENCE AND IMPROVE SALES

PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERS’ DIPLOMA

Invest in staff training and get ahead of the competition by contacting the NAG now on:

tel: 020 7613 4445 #1 or email [email protected] visit www.jewellers-online.org

The National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG

The Professional Jewellers’ Diploma is packed with information on effective selling designed

Get all the practical skills that a jeweller needs in two bite-sized online assessment chunks (known as JET 1 and JET 2

As well as product knowledge and selling skills, customer service, hallmarking, gemstones, metals (gold, platinum, palladium and silver) the programmes also cover:

JET 1 Online: New designers, personal development, rings, silverware and gifts.

JET 2 Online: Alternative shopping,


NAG News: Education & Training |

We’re aware of sounding like a brokenrecord when it comes to seminars. But

honestly, it doesn’t really bother us thatmuch. Why? Well because the NAG is alwayssounding the horn of new knowledge andfor ever encouraging its members to takeon some supplementary training to boosttheir skills portfolio. It’s nothing new, andnothing you probably won’t hear repeatedacross the pages of The Jeweller in themonths and years to come. Of course, aswe’re running the courses we’re going tosay “Yes, education is good” – but perhapsit does beg the question – “What can anNAG seminar really do for me?”

Well it depends on what you are lookingfor. The NAG has a range of seminars fromEric Emms’ Diamond Grading workshop toVirada Training’s ‘Selling to Chinese Customers’course. What you require will depend onyour unique positioning in both a local andnational market. However, whether you are a part of a multiple business, or going

it alone, the one thing an NAG seminar can really provide is a competitive edge. Just ask yourself: do my competitors have the cultural skills to convert sales? Can they distinguish and grade diamonds with a rigorous method developed over 30 yearsexperience? Do they or their staff have the advanced selling skills to push thosehigh-value products? If the answer is ‘No’, or ‘I don’t know’ – then shouldn’t you be making the most of an opportunity to gainthat extra yard? We think it would be foolishnot to.

To this end, the NAG’s seminars aredesigned to give jewellers new techniquesand insights that can really boost knowledge,brand awareness, practical skills and most ofall, increase those all-important sales. Theseone and two-day courses include: • Gold Buying and Precious Metal Testing

Seminar – London: 12th September• Essential Display Seminar –

London: 4th October

• Eric Emms Diamonds & Diamond GradingSeminar – London: 16th & 17th October

• Selling to Chinese Customers (dates TBC)• Advanced Selling Course (dates TBC)

All our courses are hosted by professionals,and all take place in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. We have received 97per cent positive feedback on our seminarprogramme, and hope we can continue toincrease this figure with the range and qualitywe provide.

If any of these titles spark your interest,contact Amanda White on 020 7613 4445or email: [email protected] forfurther details.

It’s that nail-biting time of year again whenmany of our students will be facing their

final exams for the Professional Jewellers’Diploma (JET 1 & JET 2), or the ProfessionalJewellers’ Gemstone Diploma. While sittingany exam is a daunting task for most, we’retrying to make those top marks as attainableas possible with another round of tutorials.

The dates are as follows:JET 1 TutorialsLondon – 18th SeptemberGlasgow – 18th SeptemberBirmingham – 19th SeptemberLeeds – 21st SeptemberStockport – 26th September

JET 2 TutorialsJersey – 12th SeptemberLondon – 20th & 27th SeptemberStockport – 20th SeptemberGlasgow – 24th SeptemberBirmingham – 27th SeptemberLeeds – 28th September

Gemstone Course TutorialsLondon – 9th, 10th & 11th OctoberTutorials take place in a friendly and relaxedatmosphere, and it’s a great opportunity to

meet your tutor and fellow students beforethe final exam. Previous students who havetaken a tutorial say it really helps with theirconfidence before the exams and it is alsoproven to increase your chances of reachingthose top marks. For more information onbooking your place, contact the educationdepartment on tel: 020 7613 4445 oremail: [email protected]

Autumn Exam Dates 2012JET 2: 24th October Gemstone: 23rd October (Practical)

24th October (Theory)Exam entry forms will be posted to studentsin August. The deadline for exam entries is14th September.

How to gain thatcompetitive edge

JET tutorial dates

| NAG News: Education & Training


This month we celebrate the achievementsof Ashley Nye of Ernest Jones in Bromley

who has been declared the June 2012 winner of the coveted Bransom JET 1 ProjectAssignment Award. Held in conjunction withthe team at Bransom Retail Systems, eachmonth the education department enters allJET 1 assignments into a competition for ‘bestproject’. Selected by the external examiners,the award gives students the chance to berewarded with a trip to the prestigiousGoldsmiths’ Hall, for the presentation of theircertificate at our annual student award ceremony. Those who successfully completeall five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactorystandard will be awarded a JET 1 certificateand are then entitled to continue to JET 2and the completion of the ProfessionalJewellers’ Diploma.

From assignments received this month,Ashley’s was the one that stood out from thebag of entries in the opinion of the projectmoderator. Congratulations to him from usand also from his tutor Eddie Stanley, whosaid: “Ashley has produced some outstandinganswers to each piece of JET 1 online courseassignment work. Every answer has beenwell-researched, facts gathered and thenmarshalled into a very good answer. All hiswork received the top grade”.

When we asked the project moderatorsas to why they selected Ashley’s project they

commented: “There were six other verystrong candidates for the JET 1 BransomMonthly Award during the month of June.Ashley’s project was creative, well researched,presented in a very readable manner andsupported by a list of references for eachmain point included in the answer. It is clear this work had been produced withfirst-hand knowledge of diamond product aswell as a mature, well-developed customercare skills base.”

“It is great to be rewarded,” said Ashleyon hearing of the prize. “I didn’t know muchabout it at first, but once I read up on it Irealised it was quite an honour to get therecognition. “I’d been working in the jewelleryindustry about two and a half years before Ibegan studying for JET 1. I thought I alreadyhad a good knowledge of my products andhow to sell to customers – but the JETcourse made me realise there was so muchmore to learn. After I started doing the courseI felt more comfortable and natural aroundcustomers, because I was confident in myknowledge. It really helped put me at easebecause I wasn’t constantly thinking aboutwhat I was doing. I particularly enjoyed thelast assignment about diamonds, and it’s givenme a more in-depth awareness, showing medifferent aspects of the trade. Overall thecourse was great, and I would recommendit to anyone else in my position. I’d definitelyconsider another JET course in the future.

Ashley finally wanted to thank his tutor forbeing so prompt and helpful, and his storemanager Vicky for supporting him throughthe course. For more information on the JET courses, go to: www.jewellers-online.org or call 0207613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom please visit:www.bransom.co.uk

June Bransom Award winner

| NAG News: IRV Review


The Association is extremely proud of theachievements of the NAG’s IRV whose

objective is to provide the public with a professional valuation service through itsdedicated, qualified and experiencedMembers and Fellows. The achievements ofwhat was the NAG Registered Valuer Scheme(re-launched as the Institute in 2008) havebeen many over the years.

Thankfully the one-liner valuations aremuch rarer than they used to be – althoughit is shocking to realise that there are somepeople in the trade who still offer their customers pieces of paper with little information (and often handwritten!) andhave the audacity to call them valuations!The Institute is doing its best to promote tothe public what they should expect when theyask for a valuation and making them awarethat if they use an IRV they will receivedetailed professional documentation. Notonly is the public now taking this on

board, the insurance companies are alsorecognising the specialist service that theirclients will receive if they use an IRV.

However, without the support of its MIRVsand FIRVs the Institute would not exist sothis special anniversary will be celebrated at our annual conference in Loughboroughthis September when an amazing 30 guestspeakers will join with delegates to sharetheir knowledge and experience of our magnificent trade.

The Conference, running from 22nd to24th September, includes the very popularWorkshop Sessions on Saturday afternoon,all of Sunday, and Monday morning. There’sa record 21 to choose from this year – fromPeter Buckie, David Callaghan, RosamondClayton, Steve Collins, Claire Mitchell of the Gem-A, Chris Simpson and PaulaGrenney from the Guild of Valuers &Jewellers, Kerry Gregory, Peter Hering, AlanHodgkinson, Kate Hopley, Tracy Jukes,

Heather McPherson, Shirley Mitchell, CraigO’Donnell, Pravin Pattni, James Riley, RichardTaylor, Thom Underwood & Michael Inkpenof Quantum Leap, Geoff Whitefield & JohnWatson, Stephen Whittaker and Naomi Wilson.

With the main theme for this year’s conference being ‘celebrating 25 years ofprofessional jewellery valuing’ the guestspeakers are Alastair Dickenson (of BBC1’sAntiques Roadshow), David Evans (pastDeputy Warden of The Goldsmiths’Company), Steve Kennedy (The Gem & PearlLaboratory Ltd), Eric Knowles (also BBC1’sAntiques Roadshow), Grant Macdonald (therenowned silversmith) and Robert Turner(former Queen’s Remembrancer).

On the Saturday night of the conferencethere is a Gala Dinner Dance (black tie andevening dress this year, because it’s a specialoccasion) during which we shall announcethe winner of the David Wilkins Award andpresent certificates to those Members of theInstitute who have become Fellows.

The conference will also have the follow-ing exhibitors taking part: Bransom RetailSystems, Fellows, the Gem-A, the Guild ofValuers & Jewellers, T H March & Co Ltd,Quantum Leap and SafeGuard/AnchorCert.

The Conference Package Fee starts at theexceptional price of £425 for NAG/IRVmembers and £525 for non-NAG members(plus VAT). If you’re a member of anothertrade organisation, and four other membersfrom the same body want to attend, you cando so at the NAG member rate. We alsooffer a 10 per cent discount for the third (andfourth, etc) delegate if a company wantsthree or more staff to attend. (Please noteall the Lodge Bedrooms have been taken.)

Full details on the whole programme are contained in the brochure which is available upon request from Sandra Page,the Conference Organiser. Email Sandra at:[email protected].

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R E V I E W

Celebrating 25 years of professional valuing standardsCome and join us in celebrating the NAG’s Institute of RegisteredValuers’ Silver Jubilee at the Loughborough Conference, saysSandra Page

www.gemworldmunich.comTo watch the 2012 preview clip, simply scan the QR-Code!

October 26 - 28, 2012

Meet the international Gemworldin Munich !

Where the global industry meets the European market! Join one of Europe's most important gem and jewellery

exhibitions in autumn. Get in contact with industry leaders and new clients from one of the biggest jewellery markets

worldwide. The Gemworld Munich is part of the Munich Show –the leading show for rough stones and minerals in Europe.

For more information visit www.gemworldmunich.com and stay updated with the monthly newsletter.

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Ticket promotion

from September 15 thon!

While the early summer date for TheJewellery Show London was generally

well-received by exhibitors and visitors alike,the jury is still out as far as the recent Bijorhcaat Eclat de Mode, Paris is concerned. Usuallyheld in September, the event was broughtforward to the end of June/early July withthe aim of extending the exhibitors’ salesperiod, according to Richard Martin, theartistic director of the show.

However, a straw poll among the ‘preciousjewellery’ stands at the show revealed that the event was “quiet because largeFrench jewellery houses preferred insteadto work with designers during Paris HauteCouture week”. Many exhibitors expressedthe view that the show should return to itsautumn date.

However, those visitors who did make the trip to the Porte de Versailles found aninteresting cross-section of jewellery styles onshow – from the rather classic and reservedFrench designers and brands, to the moreexuberant and unusual offerings from foreign exhibitors, of which there were anumber. Those looking for new talent wouldhave found a cluster of smaller, nichebrands, many of whom were responding

to the high price of gold by creating moredelicate pieces.

Alternatively they were working with other materials. Both Brazilian Olendzki andGiancarlo Cirasia of Italy noticed the markettendency this season was silver rather thangold, with Cirasia observing that English buyersseemed “greatly interested in Italian jewellerytaste as they appreciated the colourful tones”which characterised his pieces.

Rio de Janeiro-based Olendzki takes itsinspiration from the strong fashion buzz of the city and in particular the childhood of the designers Eda and Nina. They alsoinclude traditional Brazilian customs shownas scenes made in gold or silver and rarewood. For instance the Lapa necklace represents a well known neighbourhood in Rio famous for its traditional dances and music. Finally, endangered flowers aresculpted with such a fine technique that thejewel’s appearance is close to reality asseen in an orchid bracelet.

In terms of buying patterns noticed atBijorhca, it all boils down to a bipolar tendency that balances itself out on an

international level. On one hand the delicateminimalist jewellery was targeted by thosewho are struggling with the economic crisis– which more or less means the Europeans.While on the other, the maximalist, statementjewellery appealed to those who are notsuffering from fiscal restraints – namely the Russians.

| Feature


Show Report:Bijorhca at Eclat de Mode, Paris

Bijorhca’s early date gets an uncertain reaction says Mélina Leprince-Ringuet

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THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS is the largest and most active trade

association in the Jewellery industry.

Representing retailers within this sector for well over 100 years, we work together with

our members to promote the highest level of ethical, professional practice in the UK Jewellery

sector through ‘Education’, ‘Representation’ and ‘Communication’.

Today the potential and pitfalls of the jewellery industry are as complex as they are

challenging and as the industry’s major trade association, the NAG is committed to

providing our members with the necessary tools and information to ensure their

businesses are best equipped to take advantage of the challenges ahead.

Indeed we are, and have been, at the forefront of many industry matters – either

contesting, debating or discussing the key issues that effect our members and the

industry as a whole; whether it’s ‘The Kimberley Process’, ‘FairTrade Gold’, ‘CIBJO’,

‘Ethical Jewellery’ or ‘Action for Market Towns’ to name a few, the views of our

membership are always well represented at the ‘top table’.

Plus, more recently, the NAG has developed member initatives such as ‘Safergems’ (in

conjunction with TH March to improve the fight against crime), the ‘Executive Development

Forum’ (a member forum committed to sharing ideas and improving sales) and the

‘Institute of Registered Valuers’ (setting standards for

professional valuers). Add the NAG’s industry renowned JET I & 2 Education and Training

online courses to the list, as well as publishing its very own magazine The Jeweller, and

it is clear to see the NAG is proactively involved in all aspects of the trade.

The NAG is your voice and your trade association for the UK Jewellery industry –

collectively and together we can work to achieve a better industry for everyone.

If you would like to find out what working together can achieve for the benefitof all, please call Amy Oliver on 020 7613 4445 and find out about the differentmembership schemes available to retailers, manufacturers and designers.

Ask not what we can

do for you but what

together we can do

for the benefit of all. . .

Education • Representation • Communicationwww.jewellers-online.org


BJA News |

This year, the BJA celebrates its 125thanniversary and as part of the year long

commemorative programme, at IJL we will belaunching our new anniversary video depictinga flavour of BJA members’ work over theyears. Supporting the video will be a timelineexhibition depicting the change in jewellerydesigns and technology over the years. We willalso be displaying the Jubilee Brooch Awardfinalists for votes from UK residents.

The BJA prides itself on the work undertakenwith the UK’s jewellery designer community –not only including training and mentoring, it incorporates helping young designers understand the importance of exhibiting their work. In this respect we are proud of ourassociation with IJL organisers Reed Exhibitionswhich enables us to bring to you an excellentposse of aspiring design talent on theKickStarters stand at the exhibition.

Please look out for BJA members at theshow – they will be displaying our 125 logocards on their stands. These companies willhave signed a code of ethics relating to goodbusiness practises and many are also signingup to the recently launched Gold Standard.

If you would like to discuss any of our 75 membership services and benefits,apprenticeships and training or BJA projectplease visit our stand (J120) where the teamwill be pleased to offer help and advice.

BJA AwardsThere is still time to register your applicationfor the BJA awards programme – a celebrationof the excellent contribution that BJA members make to the UK jewellery industry.The award categories are:• BJA Member of the Year: Individual or

company that has helped most to promote the BJA during 2012.

• BJA Supplier of the Year: BJA member or a supplier of services to the BJAmembership who has provided outstanding service during 2012.

• BJA Industry Contributor of the Year: BJA member that has done the most to contribute to the overall good of theindustry – suggested areas include: ethical trading practices, training, new standards, initiatives etc.

• BJA Designer of the Year: BJA member who has consistently produced the most commercially viable designs to raise the profile of British design.

• BJA Retailer of the Year: BJA memberrunning either a bricks and mortar business or ecommerce platform

The Awards will culminate in a prestigiousceremony in Birmingham on 6th December2012 and more information on theBenevolent Society Ball can be found at:

www.bja.org.uk/awardsball Details of thevarious sponsorship packages for the BJAawards can be found at:www.bja.org.uk/sponsors

New service provider – AnnodataThrough Annodata’s association with leadingbusiness partners such as Canon, Toshiba,Ricoh and Kyocera, it is able to offer up to 30per cent savings on your existing photocopying,printers and peripheral expenditure (subjectto your current situation).

For BJA members, Annodata will arrange a site visit and conduct a free audit of your company’s current photocopier stock andreview your annual spend. In a most recentcase study, Annodata saved a BJA member£3,000 per year! Benefits include:• a national service• termination existing agreements to

reduce annual hire payments• an all inclusive package including

machines, toners service, call outs, and maintenance parts/labour

• flexible finance packages to suit all budgets

• a wide range of equipment – rangingform a small ink jet printer to high volume print devices.

For further information visit: www.bja.org.uk

Simon says!BJA CEO Simon Rainer looks ahead to the BJA’s presence at theforthcoming IJL show and reveals a new service for its members.

| BJA News


The BJA is pleased to announce the final-ists of its Diamond Jubilee Competition,

which was launched back in June this year. Having received 30 high quality entriesfor a fine-jewellery brooch design, thejudges narrowed it down to six finalists. Thejudging is now open to the UK jewellerytrade and public, inviting them to choosetheir favourite. The finalists are:• Andrew Everest Fine Jewellery –

The Queen’s Firework Brooch• Gwyneth Harris Fine Jewellery –

Garland of Four British National Flowersand Six Commonwealth Bangles

• Harriet Bedford –The Floral Time Capsule

• Ivonna Poplanska – The Eternal Dove• Kasun London – The Queen Bee• Lynsey Pluck Jewellery – Leading Light

Alongside BJA marketing manager LindseyStraughton judges included Ruth Donaldsonfrom Platinum Guild International, HelenDimmick from Green + Benz, RachaelTaylor from Professional Jeweller and repre-senting the BJA National Committee,Vanessa Burkitt from Catherine Jones, SarahJordan and Cindy Dennis Mangan. The judgescommented that many of the entries had taken the theme – The GracefulModernisation of the Monarchy – and produced very diverse yet interesting designs.

Designers were inspired by the Queen’s 60 year reign, through the many formativeand historically significant eras Her Majestyhas guided the nation and indeed theCommonwealth over that time.

Pledges and donations have been andcontinue to be received from our generousmember firms and we have an excellent‘pot’ of materials from which the winningbrooch can be manufactured. Lonmin hasgenerously pledged up to 60g of platinumand other mines across the British Isles are

donating small quantities of rare EnglishScottish, Irish and some Welsh gold, whichmay also be incorporated in to the design.Diamonds, both white and coloured, havebeen pledged and monetary donations arestill coming in to help cover the cost ofsome additional diamonds.

“The generosity of the trade is shiningthrough to help us mark this occasion with a quality statement piece,” commentedStraughton. “It is such an honour for thesesix designers and fitting that a public vote willchoose the winner. The BJA is encouragingnot only its membership and the whole tradeto vote, but is appealing to a broader nationalaudience to participate.”

Shortlisted designs are now available toview and be voted on via the BJA websiteand at the BJA stand during IJL (2nd-5thSeptember). The winner will be announcedat lunchtime on the last day of the show.The brooch will be gifted to the Queen afterbeing displayed at a BJA event at the Houseof Commons in late November

To vote visit: www.bja.org.uk/Jubileevoteor visit the BJA stand no. J120 at IJL.

Finalists announcedfor BJA DiamondJubilee Competition

Harriet Bedford

Lynsey Pluck

Kasun London

Andrew Everest

Ivonna Poplanska

Gwyneth Harris

| BJA Feature


The BJA’s newly elected chairman GaryWilliams, is particularly keen to understand

the views and needs of its very diversemembership by visiting as many of them ashe can during his tenure. One of the first inhis sights is RE Morrish, a family jewellerybusiness situated in the heart of Birmingham’srenowned Jewellery Quarter, which specialisesin antique, Victorian and vintage styles, butalso contemporary, Celtic, gents, Masonic,gem set, diamond set and solid patterns.

When Williams asked the company’s MDand founder Bob Morrish how he first got involved in the jewellery business, he wassurprised to learn that the jeweller startedout on his own at the tender age of 18.Today Morrish’s love of coloured stones andhis proximity to dealers and setters in thequarter has enabled him to build a clientele

who appreciate British made quality with afast turnaround. Bob will be one of thejudges of the prestigious F Hinds competitionfor both student and trade entries and hiscompany will make up the winning designs.

Established in 1964, RE Morrish is still verymuch a family concern with his wife Anne(a partner in the business) and daughterRachel working alongside him (as well asthe occasional help from Max, a very young

grandson). An active member of the BJA,when he was asked which of its services heappreciated the most Morrish highlightedthe extremely useful Confidential CreditLetter – which gives members a heads upon bad payers – as well as the discountedcarnets which are made available to the BJAvia Birmingham Chamber of Commerce.

“We in the jewellery industry can get carriedaway with the glitz, glamour and high-profilebranding of it all and in doing so are in dangerof losing sight of the backbone of the trade,”said Williams after his visit. “RE Morrish andits ilk proves that this important hard core ofBritish jewellery designers and manufacturers,without the aid of huge marketing budgets,is very much alive, well and kicking.”

RE Morrish will be exhibiting at this year’sIJL on stand I90. Visit: www.remorrish.com

COLOURme beautiful

International GemstonesAs one of the largest suppliers of rubies,sapphires and natural coloured diamondsin the UK, International Gemstones has putits customers’ needs at the centre of thebusiness by carrying a range of better quality rubies and sapphires – from verysmall calibrated rounds, to very large singlestones. For more information visit:www.thegembank.com

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Andrew GeogheganAndrew’s aim with the Reflect range was tocreate a ring in which the stone is set slightlylower than in conventional rings and in thisway one must look down into the setting.By creating this ‘space’ or ‘hollow’ in whichlight is reflected from diamond to zircon thereis a feeling of peering into a pool of light,colour and reflections! Raspberry Zircon anddiamonds RRP: From £3700www.andrewgeoghegan.com

GeckoThe new Elements Gold 2013 collectionintroduces a myriad of stones in an array ofbeautiful colours from the subtle opalescenceof moonstone to rich opaque turquoise.This Peridot set showcases the luminescentbeauty of olive cabouchon stones, embracedby a delicate ring of diamond pave RRPfrom £96 www.geckojewellery.com

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RRP: £1,000-£3,000

There are very many BJA members creating inspirational designsusing coloured gemstones as their focal point. Here we highlightjust a few of them, including a little inside information on finejewellers RE Morrish.

Something to say about the BJA? EmailGary Williams at: [email protected]

| BJA Feature


MuruMuru’s Monaco collection, in sterling silveror gold vermeil, features coloured stones withchequerboard cuts including a variety of ice-cream coloured stones that complementthe trend for muted pastel tones this season.Gemstones include blue jade, amazonite,rose quartz and purple jade. RRP £36-£120www.murujewellery.com

Babette WassermanThis sterling silver, gold plated Glitter Starlightring is hand-set with Swarovski crystals, inGreige, Montana, Olivine, Cyclamen Opal &Crystal Bronze. It is also available in sterlingsilver, rhodium plated with crystals in, Silk,Crystal Golden Shadow, Light Smoked Topaz,Antique Pink & Greige. RRP: £360.00vwww.babette-wasserman.com

Holts JewelleryMaking a luxurious statement is this deeppurple amethyst cocktail ring in 18 carat yellow gold setting. RRP: £520.00 www.holtsgems.com

Rodney Rayner LtdRodney Rayner has won the award for BestDesign in Colour at the COUTURE Awardsin Las Vegas four out of the 10 times he has been a finalist! This year the Via Romacollection caught the judges’ and buyers’eyes. The ring is made in 18ct. rose gold andset with white and champagne diamondsand yellow and orange sapphires, with individually cut centre stones of smokyquartz and citrines. RRP £10,920.00 www.rodneyrayner.com

H.ChalfenThis show stopping ring has a main draw ofa rich 5.96ct octagon cut yellow sapphireset within 182 smaller diamonds totalling0.69cts. An unusual trellis-inspired designwould capture anyone’s attention. RRP£12,500 www.chalfen.co.uk

TomassaThese exotic pieces from the Firefly Eveningscollection feature an array of colourfulcabouchon gemstones including amethystand peridot. The contrasting colours sit pronounced among 85 brilliant cut diamondsand 18ct yellow gold creating individualswirls of light. RRP £1,500 www.tomassa.com

SuperfitThis CliQ® Caribe cocktail ring with a mattecabouchon chalcedony in 18K yellow goldfeatures Superfit® shank technology for acustom and comfortable fit. RRP £4,365:www.superfitinc.co.uk

Alfred Terry LtdThis 18ct white gold ruby and diamond ringis fast becoming a best seller at Alfred Terry.Featured as part of the Jubilee Collection it features 0.19ct H SI quality diamonds and a 7mm round ruby. Also available insapphire and emerald at RRP: £1,450www.alfredterry.com

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German design since 1974

bastian GmbH & Co. KG · Phone: +49 (0)421 33 85 - 555 · E-Mail: [email protected]

WWW.MARC-O-POLO.COM

Come and experience true German Design: IJL 2012 | Earls Court | 2 – 5 September | Savor Silver Booth G 160

| Feature


When Poonam Agarwalla moved fromIndia to the UK and then started selling

jewellery from a suitcase 25 years ago, it’sunlikely that she envisaged a time when herfledgling business would be showcasing itswares from one of the largest stands at amajor trade fair. Even when she started tosupply the high street fashion chain Oasiswith costume jewellery for all its branches,she probably didn’t imagine such a futurescenario, given that she was still operatingfrom home at that point in time.

However, from just such an acorn hasgrown the oak tree that is G McKenzie, anumbrella business encompassing some ofthe best-known silver jewellery brands inthe UK. From out of that suitcase emergeda silver trade catalogue (no minimum ordersor re-orders) allowing retailers – whetherjewellers, gift shops or fashion boutiques –to apply their own branding and prices tohand-picked lines. And in the course of timethat much-utilised catalogue paved the wayfor G McKenzie’s own brands.

As he gallops through a potted history ofthe company, ticking off the familiar namesas he goes, sales and marketing director

Steve Austin (who is also the in-housegraphic designer) admits that many peopleare unaware of just how much there is to GMcKenzie. Exactly how far the northLondon-based business has come in 25years is exemplified by its six key brands –but there are three collections in particularwhich, according to Austin, provide the mainfocus: Virtue Rings, White Ice and therecently introduced Virtue Exquisite.

He and the team are particularly excitedabout the latter, and with good reason – it’squite a departure from the G McKenzienorm. A preview of the line at The JewelleryShow in Birmingham at the beginning of thisyear, followed by a full collection unveilingat the new sister show at Somerset House,London in June, was so successful that Austinwas prompted to sign up to the Harrogatetrade fair after a gap of 15 years or so. It seems that jewellery retailers have takenrather well to the new look.

As with all G McKenzie jewellery, the newVirtue Exquisite line is made from sterlingsilver, but then, creating a real point of difference, the pieces – primarily banglesand bracelets – are plated in rose, yellow orchocolate gold or black or standard rhodium.Add to this the fact that the pieces are all made in Italy (rather than the Far East)and naturally the prices are elevated someway beyond the G McKenzie standard… but

not scarily so. “Trade prices are between£7 and £120 – so from £25 atretail for the very fine pieces, whichis pretty fair for jewellery that has

no base metal,” says Austin.Particularly appealing are the popcorn

bangles studded with CZ – a wristful inall the plated colourways offer affordable

glamour (well, more affordable than puregold and diamonds anyway) that has, in myview, a chic subtlety rather than obvious glitz

about it. While the rigid bangles are closedsmartly with a very sturdy magnetic clasp, thefluid, snake-like bracelets fasten with lobsterclasps, and roll-on stretch bangles featurepretty diamond-cut silver beads.

Add to this roll-call open-ended bangles,disc-theme pendants, chain lariats andnecklaces and chain drop earrings – plusfree, understated white and gold packagingwith every product – and it’s not difficult tounderstand why jewellers are clamouringfor the line. You’d have to be quick though

because as with all G McKenzie brands,sales are on a first-come-first-served basis;exclusivity is given to jewellers within theirtowns or within a certain radius of cities.

Not to be outdone by the new kid on theblock, the White Ice collection – which firstappeared 11 years ago – is bigger than everthis year with 40 new lines having beenadded to the offer. “We wanted to freshenthings up a little for 2012 with new pieceslike the ‘Tree of Life’ design and a design thatI describe as having a neutron look,” explainsAustin, “We’ve also tweaked the packagingto make it more environmentally-friendly.”

Brand ProfileG McKenzie

As it launches another new brand, there’s more to silver jewellery business G McKenzie than you might imagine,

as Belinda Morris finds out.

Precious Virtue

VirtueExquisite

VirtueRings


As always, every piece of hallmarked sterlingsilver White Ice jewellery contains at leastone brilliant cut diamond.

Four years ago G McKenzie introducedthe Virtue range, starting – understandablyenough – with beads in sterling silver, 9ctgold and decorated with gemstones, crystal,CZ, enamel and glass. From there the linedeveloped further to incorporate the nowvery popular stacking rings. “For 2012 we’veadded 25 new rings,” says Austin, “butwe’ve not discontinued any previous ones, so

we have a total of around 150 styles now.”This includes the rather more special,made-to-order 18ct gold and diamond stackrings, with variations that encompass blackand pink sapphire and ruby and a choice ofrose, yellow and white gold.

A natural progression from the collectiblebeads is the range of drops that came next.Hanging from plaited Italian leather cords ina range of colours, the delicate pieces aresilver or gold plated, with, occasionally, high-lights of crystal, marcasite, freshwater pearls,CZ or coloured stones.

Then, to create big statement pieces (butwithout the big statement price tag) the

company added Precious by Virtue. “With therising price of silver we decided to use gemstones, with silver fixings,” explainsAustin. Which leaves the likes of amethyst,citrine, agates, lapis, cornelian, sodalite and tiger’s eye to create the colourful

drama, with the paletteoutlined in the colour-arranged catalogue.Highlighting thebold departure isthe accompanyingpackaging – a striking

black and magentacombination.As is the case with all

of the different collections,the company likes to make

things as easy as possible forits retail customers. Besides the

complimentary packaging (which is

a very important element of these largelygift-oriented brands) and the secure-yet-customer-friendly ring display boxes,point of sale material comes as standard.For instance, as well as posters reproducedto a desired size and with the retailers ownlogo, the handy little catalogues for each ofthe six labels are made available to jewellersfor their own customers to pore over.

The nature of much of G McKenzie’s jewellery is such that it creates a desire tocollect and this way the customer canchoose her next piece straight from thepage. (Thoughtfully the images are nearenough life size and the styles captionedwith recommended retail prices.) After thefirst minimum order (£400 in the case ofWhite Ice and Exquisite for instance) a callto G McKenzie’s north London office andsaid item, if in stock, is despatched the nextday – no minimum order required.

However, from just such an acorn has grown the oak tree that is G McKenzie, an umbrella businessencompassing some of thebest-known silver jewellerybrands in the UK.

White Ice

Virtue Exquisite


StylesightSharon Graubard, responsible for trendanalysis at Stylesight explains that there arethree definite future directions for jewellery:

One direction is opulent and over-the-top, with inspirations from art movementsfrom the Italian Renaissance and FrenchBaroque and Rococo eras, to 1930s Decoand 1940s Surrealism. These use yellow orpink gold, lots of filigree, giant stones andflower shapes, as well as some cameos,Dali-esque eyes and bejeweled lips, a laLanvin’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection..

Another is raw and elemental, almostancient in feel, but with a punk edge. Herewe see blackened or hammered metals,heavy chains, raw crystals, and pyramidshaped gems. There is a tribal warrior feeling in breastplates, wide cuffs and big, statement-making rings. Gothic crossesre-emerge as well.

The third direction is clean and modern,with clean-brushed metals, sleek shapes,and modernist artisanal techniques thatsuggest the sculptural designs of the 1960sand 1970s, but the effect is not retro – it istimeless and elegant.

Future

One of the highlights of the seminar programme at IJL nextmonth – and one that is always well-attended year after year – is the talk on up-and-coming jewellery trends. Once againleading trend forecasting agency Stylesight will be revealing itstake on the important developments to expect for 2013 andhere, along with further design direction insights from Swarovski’sGem Visions and fashion intelligence gatherer WGSN, is a taster of things to come…

OPULENT & BAROQUEDolce & Gabbana

FLOWERSMichael van der Ham


We will be seeing more pale stones –particularly opals, but also white topaz, rockcrystal, quartz and chalcedony. Colouredgemstones like topaz and tourmaline areoften mixed or set with precious stones,especially diamonds. The classic jewel tonesreturn, particularly combinations of pinks,violets and reds, or greens and blues. Yellow,brown and amber tones are beautiful forautumnal looks. Both faceted cuts andcabochon stones are key, along with slicedeffects and carved or incised stones.

Inspiration from nature gets more dramatic and gutsy, with insects and wingedcreatures, all kinds of flowers including curvylily shapes, birds and starbursts. Animalscome into jewellery, with snakes continuingto be strong, as well as lions and gargoyles.

Pearls are used in new ways; they can beset in sleek, modernist ways, mixed with rawstones, used in clusters, and in mixed colours.We are also seeing ancient materials likewoolly mammoth ivory, petrified wood, buffalo horn and lava, used in contemporaryluxe ways. Metals are worked into swingingtassels and flexible mesh, bringing graceand fabric-like sensuality to yellow or rosegold, platinum, titanium and rhodium.

SWAROVSKI GEM VISIONS Presented by jewellery writer and consultantVivienne Becker, Gem Vision’s trends for2013 comprised five key themes:

Origin: In meditative mood, this gentle,quiet, low-colour look encapsulates the luxury of comfort and serenity through astyle of modern minimalism, expressing thequest for inner balance, harmony and life inthe slow lane. The pale palette is inspired by‘Northern hues’ – the colours of stone andnatural earth-tone dyes. Cuts are sensualand generous or raw and rough-hewn.

Goddess: Celebrating modern ‘womanity’ –powerful, sensual and exotic, travelling theSilk Route, from Byzantium to India, payinghomage to the goddesses of near-Asia,

Trends

RAW ELEMENTALChanel

CLEAN & MODERNJohn Rocha

ORIGINJenny Lee

GODDESSSho Fine Jewellery

There is a tribal warrior feeling in breastplates, wide cuffs and big, statement-making rings…


encompassing the growing Arabic andOttoman Orientalist influences on contem-porary design. The palette shows a focus ondeep and rich green and amber tones forcabouchon, sculpted and engraved stones.

Take Time: Tinged with the last vestiges ofnostalgia for a faded elegance, for the leisuredlifestyle of a lost era, its savoir vivre and itssavoir faire, this trend rediscovers familyheritage, through a style characterised by a dark, poetic melancholy and a sense of the sacred. Colours include charcoal, smoky greys, carbon blue, deep purple andghostly white.

Toxic Attraction: The fast-growing wealth,power and influence of Asia nurtures thisextreme style of modern Asian fusion glamour, passionate and audacious, inspiredby traditional costume, balanced betweenattraction and repulsion. Vibrant, fruitycolours plus blood red, shocking pink and intense jade green speak of danger and sensuality.

Outer space: A contemporary spaceOdyssey, pushing boundaries through newtechnology and augmented reality, exploring

new materials and processes, generating aradical visionary space-age style, betweenscience, design, astronomy and mathematics.Clean pastels are balanced here by freshsharp tones for geometric cut stones.

For 2013 Swarovski Gems™ launchesZirconia Fancy Diamond Cuts, the third in atrilogy of innovations conceived as part ofthe Pure Brilliance concept. There are fivedifferent fancy cuts, each capturing the perfection of the diamond and each of thefive – Square Princess, Marquise Diamond,Pear Diamond, Oval Diamond and BaguettePrincess – combines cutting technologywith its own personality.

Future

Trends

TAKE TIMEStephen Webster

OUTER SPACEHarry Hornby

TOXICTomasz Donocik

A contemporary spaceOdyssey… generating aradical visionary space-agestyle, between science,design, astronomy andmathematics.

WGSNAccessories editor Jacqui Ma has identifiedthree key jewellery trends for the next season:Wonderlab, The Everyday Heirlooms andIdiomatic.

WonderLab creates a pathway through thejungle of modern science and technology. It lets us into a secret visual world that once was fantasy but is now real. Products have an infectious beauty, where materials

determine form and experimentation hasunexpected results. Elements are put underthe microscope revealing ornate patternsand structures unseen to the naked eye.

Everyday Heirlooms looks at everythingthat makes reality today; the new and thenot so new, the jarringly ugly and theachingly beautiful. It is all about looking atthe world with a new appreciation of that which we previously may have castaside. By mixing the past with the presentand the beautiful with the mundane, a newperception of reality is formed. In this trend materials are clean and honest andpieces are utilitarian and simple with minimal embellishment.

Idiomatic celebrates the uniqueness ofregional cultures and of the communitiesthat shape them. Pieces in this trend bringto life the customs, symbols and style ofparticular regions and the cultures in a progressive, rather than overly sentimentalway. In particular we look at the culture andtraditions of Eastern Europe from Bulgariaand the Ukraine to the Baltic states ofEstonia, Latvia and Lithuania. The highly

personal occasion pieces mix together hardand soft elements and materials andprocesses local to particular regions. Thistrend is about honed craft born out of tradition and history.


Future

Trends

Everyday Heirlooms looks at everything that makes realitytoday; the new and the not so new, the jarringly ugly and the achingly beautiful.

‘Idiomatic’ exemplified: a photo taken of a passer-by on the street wearing jewellery and clothingperfectly demonstrating the trend

WONDERLABChorera Pasionae

IDIOMATIC Folkish earrings

EVERYDAY HEIRLOOMS Katie Hillier


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Image: Lara Bohinc palladium jewellery

Show’sPromise

Undoubtedly a key date in the buyingcalendar, International Jewellery London

(Earl’s Court, 2nd-5th September) promisesto really pack a punch this year. With morenew exhibitors than ever before (129+),and top brands and designers returning, theevent will provide the perfect chance to seethe most talked about new and establishedcontemporary and classic jewellery collectionsfrom leading British and internationaldesigners and manufacturers.

Iconic brands and hot new designersThe 2012 show will open with a new luxurious look and feel, with everything fromfine jewellery to the latest fashion ranges.Visitors can stroll down the Boulevard, studded with star brands and designers suchas Fei Liu Fine Jewellery, Richard Hans Beckerand Heinz Mayer. Stuart Moore will returnthis year on his own stand on the Boulevardfollowing his successful debut in 2011.

As always, regular catwalk shows will addto the glamour of it all.

A new Watch Trail around the show willhighlight watch brands, as well as jewellerycompanies with watch lines. Brands includeBering Time Ltd, Since 1853 (Torgoen Swissand Revue Thommen), Festina, ErhardJunghans, Storm and BQ Watches (Rolex,Cartier, Breitling, Omega and Patek Phillipe).New to the UK and being launched at IJL by Unique Jewelry is the Candino Swisswatch brand (E129).

Peter Carmichael, business developmentdirector of Since 1853, said: “We’re delightedto be exhibiting at IJL for the third year in arow and will be showing at least five watchbrands never seen before. Combined with thelaunch of the new ‘Watch Trail’ it promises tobe a fantastic show. We have been buildingand developing our business plans aroundthe IJL show this year and we’re now counting down the days until it opens!”

Among the many product destinations,the Design Gallery and Designer Brands areasare particularly set to impress, creating anintimate setting for buyers and retailers totalk to designers and see their new launches.Dinny Hall, whose fan-base includes KateWinslet, Samantha Cameron and Alexa Chung,will be showcasing for the very first time.She joins a line up including Amara, RachelGalley, Sho Fine Jewellery, Deakin & Francis,Andrew Geoghegan and Babette Wasserman.

Perennially popular with buyers and press people are the Bright Young Gemsand KickStart stands at the show, as theseinitiatives identify a selection of the hottestnew designers in their infancy. The formerhave been selected by a panel of leadingfashion and jewellery editors who have tippedthem for success, while the KickStart designershave been handpicked by the IJL team andthe British Jewellers’ Association.

“We love the fact that IJL is continuing tosupport and encourage new designers – theyare the life blood of our industry and keepour customer offering fresh and interesting,”says Val Trotter, director of Pebbles. “Eventswhere we meet the people behind the jewellery are so important for retailers likeus who don’t stock big mainstream brands;our customers really appreciate the fact thatwe can tell the story of the designer – itmakes the purchase so much more personaland therefore more meaningful.”

A sure sign that KickStarter, as a concept,works is when designers return to the showunder their own steam a year or two later.Sian Bostwick, now in her third year at IJL andMirpuri (a 2011 Kickstarter) are cases in point.

Hero MetalsIJL will be a celebration of metals this year.One of the show highlights will be thePlatinum Experience hosted by PlatinumGuild International (PGI). For the first timeever PGI is presenting an exhibition whichshowcases the unique heritage of platinum.Through interactive technology the exhibitiontells the story of the qualities of this luxurymetal. The Platinum Trail will also reveal someof the best in platinum jewellery – forinstance Sarah Jordan’s Lonmin DesignInnovation Award-winning pieces along withher two new designer collections. (C71)

Not to be outdone the InternationalPalladium Board will present a seminar onthe future of palladium before meeting visitors on its own stand to talk about thestrengths of the metal. To add weight to the argument, the stand will demonstratethe various designer collaborations that the Palladium Board has undertaken recently.These include two collections by Lara Bohinc,a fine jewellery line with diamonds andSouth Sea pearls, inspired by architecturalstructures and her Collision Collection usingblack onyx. Another collaboration on display


IJL Preview |

Elements Gold

Maître Horloger – Les Genevezdepuis 1884

For further information please contact Ferndale UK Limited on tel: 01403 790902

www.edox.ch

is with students from Central Saint Martin’swith winning and finalists’ designs.

Added to this the Silver Promotion Serviceis sponsoring the Inspiration Theatre, whichwill be hosting a range of seminars and, ofcourse, a dazzling array of designer brandssuch as Nada G, Imogen Belfield and AlfredTerry will also showcase collections featuringgold jewellery.

Seminar highlightsFinding time to fit it all in might be an issue,but as ever IJL has an impressive range oftrade-related seminars taking place, withindustry gurus and experts providing tipsand tools to maximise revenues, save costsand generate ideas to set you apart fromyour competitors. The busy programme canbe viewed online before the event so thatyou can plan ahead. Highlights include:• Callum Watt, aka Maketh-The-Man,

discusses the future of blogging• PureJewels’ brand manager Jayant

Raniga and his industry panel debate‘Brand or Retailer?’

• Top insights from The Retail Champion,Clare Rayner

• A Thomson Reuters expert on the gold survey and forecast for 2013

• The Great Debate• Martin Rapaport reports on the

diamond market in his popular annual seminar

• A look at upcoming trends from leadingtrend forecasting agency Stylesight

• An evaluation of the current internationaljewellery markets, featuring the designerFei Liu

• The Silver Promotion Service looks at the silver market

• Presentations by market experts atleading research company GfK

See the full programme at: www.jewellerylondon.com/seminars

Best from around the worldAs ever, national pavilions provide the chancefor IJL visitors to see some of the best international jewellery talent. Among others,the Netherlands will be represented for thefirst time this year with the Dutch DesignPavilion. A must-see at the show, the collectivewill showcase high quality, unique hand-made gold and silver jewellery.

And that’s not all folks… Visit Brown & Newirth (G61) to hear moreabout the £10,000 honeymoon competitionthat the maker of bespoke wedding andcommitment rings is launching with selectedretailers. Until December 31st this year customers purchasing a hand-made Brown& Newirth wedding ring can enter the prizedraw to win a luxurious honeymoon at theBanyan Tree Seychelles Hotel.

If you need to improve your product photography head to Mode360 (C109)which offers devices for online sellers whoneed to create standard pack shots, as wellas 360° and full 3D animations of products.The reasonably inexpensive machines areefficient and simple to operate and fullycontrolled by a PC and now compatible withMacintosh systems as well as Windows.

Those looking to add an exciting newdimension to their jewellery might beinterested in Weston Beamor’s latest pieceof high-tech equipment launching at IJL.The desk top 3D scanner, which is moreusually found in the dental industry, createsa high resolution image file of the object.Once scanned the 3D replica can be manipulated in the CAD software. For example, the original can be mirrored tocreate a pair of cufflinks, or scaled in size to

make a pendant or charm. The resulting CADmodel can then be used to create a perfectreplica in either wax or resin using WestonBeamor’s rapid prototyping service. (G141)

And when pacing the aisles becomes too much… take a seat. “Everything at IJL isdesigned to enhance the visitor experience.There are plenty of places around the show to network and relax, including aroundthe stylish setting of the newly designedBoulevard Bar, IJL’s new networking spaceon the forecourt, the Garden Café and the Design Gallery Bar,” says event directorSam Willoughby.


An example of 3D design by Weston Beamor

IJL Preview |

Fiorelli Silver

Silver Willow

| IJL Preview


KickStart2012

The KickStart initiative is an IJL/BJA project to help mentor andshow up-and-coming talent. This year’s carefully curated selectionof KickStarters will once again bring inspirational design to theDesign Quarter of the exhibition. “We are particularly impressedwith this year’s KickStarters. Every single designer selected has shown not only fantastic creativity and skill but also, andimportantly, a great commercial awareness,” says Val Trotter,director of jewellery retailer Pebbles. Here’s a preview of thosenames to watch.

FLAVIE MICHOU Flavie developed her design skills in Parisianworkshops, making pieces for brands suchas Tiffany, Chanel and Cartier to name a few.Now from her London workshop she createsunique yet affordable collections.www.flavie-michou.com

CLARICE PRICE THOMAS Clarice’s jewellery combines her interests inmachinery, movements, mechanisms andantiques with an elegant design philosophy.Her debut collection, ‘Time’, has been heavily inspired by the unseen world insideclocks and watches. Her innovative stylehas already won her awards this summer. www.claricepricethomas.com

MANDANA OSKOUIMandana’s work is inspired by formations,sequences and architectural forms found inminerals and rocks. Since graduating shehas developed her organic style and will belaunching a new collection at the show. www.mandanaoskoui.com

DE ANNA KIERNANDe Anna trained as a goldsmith from theage of 17 prior to studying architecture atCentral Saint Martins. Influenced by the cleanlines of modernist architecture and drawingon the natural contours of the female body,her jewellery has a minimalist aesthetic witha focus on subtly framing the body.www.deannakiernan.co.uk

IMOGEN BELFIELDThrough specialised hand carving techniques Imogen creates pieces in textured metals, withan organic twist and incorporating porcelain. Her collections are often embellished with clustersof nuggets, glinting green emeralds, ocean blue sapphires and luxuriant crimson rubies thatsit deep in the natural crevices of gold, silver and bronze – all reminiscent of the precariousboulders of coastal landscapes. No stranger to IJL or publicity Imogen was selected for BrightYoung Gems last year. www.imogenbelfield.com

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LESTIE LEELestie specialises in sterling silver and goldvermeil with coloured stones and preciousstones and all her pieces are hand-made in London. Her instinctive relationship withnatural materials helps her create theseunique pieces. www.lestielee.com

ANNALOUCAH FINE JEWELLERYDesigner goldsmith Annaloucah creates finejewellery, working with Fairtrade and recycledprecious materials. She has participated innumerous high profile brand collaborations,and is now making her collections availableto the trade for the first time, as she takesher brand in an exciting new direction.www.annaloucah.com

MYIA BONNERA recent graduate of Middlesex University,Myia's delicate yet bold collections exploreher interest in the traditions of diamonds.Myia reinterprets this most coveted stone andredesigns each cut to create her signaturefacet design. www.myiabonner.co.uk

QUARTER ANGELJessica Neil will be showing two distinct collections. Firstly the ‘Skyline’ collection,depicting iconic London views, either madein photo-etched silver with contrasting oxidised detail or made in Perspex, wherethe etching of this lightweight material is veryeffective at showing the intricate designdetails. Quarter Angel’s second and newercollection incorporates mixed metals withsparkly stones and feathers. www.quarterangel.com

The KickStart Trend Award This award was launched at the 2011 IJLshow and KickStarter Claire English wonthe coveted prize – a year’s subscriptionto the innovative trend service Stylesightworth $8,500 USD.

Nearly a year on, Claire English said: “Ifound Stylesight to be a marvellous wayto interact with the web and do research.I will be bringing some mood boards created in Stylesight to IJL with me this yearwhen I exhibit with my own stand. Thesetwo dimensional ‘visual mind maps’ willenrich and support understanding of whattrends my new ‘Tooth & Claw’ collectionfeeds into. Jane Boddy, Stylesight’s directorof Trend Forecasting, said: “At Stylesight,we genuinely feel that IJL is one of themost progressive platforms for jewellerydesigners to showcase their collections tothe media and the industry as a whole. I can’t wait to sit on the panel for the2012 award and see the innovative workfrom these exciting new designers on theKickStart stand.”

ROS MILLARRos Millar creates diverse ranges including her organically inspired gold and silver cuttlebonecast jewellery and her glamorously gothic looking ‘Black & Rose Growth’ collection. At IJL shewill launch a new collection, ‘Meteor’, which will gleam with sparkling rose and white rhodiumgold plate alongside champagne diamonds discreetly set and hidden within each piece.www.rosmillar.com

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COME AND SEE US AT IJL2nd - 5th September 2012

www.sheilafleet.com

Stand No. A69Email: [email protected]

Tel: (01856) 861 203

O R K N E Y D E S I G N E R J E W E L L E R Y

C O L L E C T I O NSwallowsInspired by Swallows gracing our summer skies with their breathtaking speed and acrobatic performance

Designed and Made in Orkney, Scotland

| IJL Preview


IJL KeyLaunches

JIANHUIFollowing on from the great success of his ultralightweight wood ‘Next Pasmina’ necklaces,designer Jianhui has introduced two new versions of the concept. One is made of ropes ofwool/silk while this chain style is made from fine thread-wrap chain links. Stand D1

ALICE MENTERFollowing her launch last year, Alice will beshowcasing her best-selling pieces from hersignature collection – industrial componentsreinterpreted as bold jewellery – in newcolour options. She will also be unveiling herfirst foray into ring design. Stand C17

FESTINA AT UNIQUEShown here is one of the eight chronographsports watches that have been launched tocommemorate Festina’s appointment asofficial timekeeper of the Tour of Britain cyclerace. Available in two versions: one with astainless steel bracelet, the other with a rubber strap. Stand E129

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IJL Preview |

JERSEY PEARL‘Joli’ is a perky new approach to pearl jewellery, featuring a single freshwater pearladorning a bow detail leather strap bracelet,which comes in a range of colours – frombright to muted. To be worn alone or stackedtogether for maximum impact.Stand G108

ALEXIS DOVEThe new Curio range is inspired by cabinetsof curiosities that were collected by 17thcentury explorers. Vintage keys, hearts, buttons, skulls and shells in combinations ofsilver and gold vermeil all feature, alongsideDove’s precious lines of wedding andengagement rings, pendants and earrings.Stand A61

PEARL & QUEENIEFirst time exhibitors design duo Becca Hulbertand Kathy Dyton, who work from a studio in Clerkenwell, London, will be showing two very new collections at IJL. EquestrianTreasures is inspired by ‘the beauty of horses… plus the luck and fortune theybring’ and The Love Story, a feminine linecelebrating the power of love.Stand C44

BYBLOS AT SINCE 1853This bold and clever watch line by Italianfashion label Byblos (different colour strapsrevealed under the clear watch face) is oneof several timepiece brands that Since1853 will be showcasing, including TorgoenSwiss, Revue Thommen, Grovana, iTime,Milano and Boxer Milano. Stand J130

BROWN & NEWIRTHAll Brown & Newirth handmade bridal and commitment rings are made in a range of 9ct, 14ct,18ct, 22ct gold, palladium, platinum and assorted mixed metals. A choice of yellow, red, whiteor combination colours in numerous widths, weights and sizes is available. Stand G61

TIVON FINE JEWELLERYAs well as new designs in the TanzaniteRoyale Collection, Tivon will be showing itsnew Couture Collection featuring largergemstones and one-off creations. Shownhere is an 18ct white gold fine diamond andrubelite ring from the Sunset Couture line.Stand i80

JANA REINHARDTThis London-based, award-winning designduo – a husband and wife, both goldsmiths– is introducing ‘Little Miss Sunshine’, a collection combining whimsy with preciousmetal and stones for pieces that will becometimeless keepsakes. Stand A19

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GEMEXAward-winning Gemex will show its newrange of Raphael platinum wedding ring-friendly engagement rings with F/G VS gradesize set diamonds. The centre stones startfrom 0.33 carat, moving up to 0.50, 0.75and 1.00 carat. However, the company whichis well known for its free CADCAM andbespoke services, will be able to modify anyof its designs to take any sized centre stone.Stand H38

BERINGIn support of the polar bear, Danish watchbrand Bering, which launched in the UK lastyear, has developed three exclusive slimceramic models as part of its Time to Carecharity project. As well as gold, the limitededition watch also comes in a silver tonewith either black or white ceramic. 100 percent of the profit from the sale of thesewatches goes to the charity. Stand F131

AARGAARDMurano glass and Swarovski crystals in the Lovelinks line, men’s and ladies’ woven braceletsin a range of colours by From Soldier to Soldier and new charms and bracelets from Story,will all be on show at Aagaard. Stand F11

IKURIALondon-based emerging brand Ikuria(designed by Ikuko Kurahone) will belaunching the Catch collection depicting aspider’s web ensnaring diamond morningdew. The necklaces and rings are availablein sterling silver or 18ct rose gold set with0.09 carat white diamonds. Stand C46

KAMARALaunched last year this range of crystal-basedfashion jewellery includes new pieces featuring mother of pearl saints images with black as well as coloured detailing. Alsoin the range are stud earrings and rings.Distributed by Dan Jewellers. Stand i1

HOCKLEY MINTNew this year is Zt Precision Mounts – aproject that has been a year in the making.The collection combines elegant, cutting-edge design with ‘time-proven wearability’and strong, clean lines. Stand H118

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MIRPURILaunched at IJL last year Johnny Mirpuri’s sterling silver jewellery brand will include two newlines: Fuego, inspired by silouettes of hot and cool flames and Aguaceros (heavy showers inSpanish) – shown here. The latter comprises silver chains and faceted black onyx marquisestones, with chains of varying lengths either oxidised in graduated sections or with blackSwarovski briolettes for a sparkling monochrome effect. Stand D41

EURO PEARLSThe Yoko collection, created specifically withthe UK market in mind, allows retailers to sellpremium South Sea and Tahitian jewelleryat more affordable prices. Smaller south seapearls and more subtle mounts still maintainthe high standards of quality synonymouswith the brand. New for IJL will be the newproduct display for the mid-range Takaracollection, as well as new large round 11mmfreshwater strands and Perlissimo, the sterlingsilver and cultured freshwater pearl line.Stand G41

SHO FINE JEWELLERYThese Flora earrings are from the newFlorabella collection, inspired by designerSarah Ho’s memories of a flower-filledchildhood when she moved from Macau tothe UK. In silver or silver with 18ct rose goldvermeil the earrings are embellished withrhodolite, smoky quartz, white topaz andpink pearls. Stand E70

UNIQUE JEWELS Colourful leather straps with clasps either in gold plate or stainless steel and occasionallyadorned with freshwater pearls, are among the new pieces in the Unique Jewels line. Othersare in sterling silver, using simple geometric forms to create three-dimensional designs. Stand E121

TANKELLongstanding connections with one of theworld’s leading diamond producers allowsTankel – which is continuing to see anincreasing demand for large stones – tooffer ‘superb value at well below currentmarket prices’. Shown here is one of twonew patterns being introduced – a cushioncut 1.51 F VS2 0.34 pave. Stand H81

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THE BRANCHFor 2013 the collection of rosewood jewelleryhas been further enhanced with colouredstones including dyed blue howlite, syntheticcoral, blue quartz and cherry quartz, as wellas silver and gold details. Key pieces includerounded bangles, pendants, earrings andstatement necklaces. Stand B41

LUCY QDesigner and silversmith Lucy Quartermainewill be presenting new pieces from herpopular – and playful – Buttons collectionat the show, including this striking ButtonBangle in highly polished sterling silver.Other designs feature jigsaw pieces, drips,flowers and spiders. Stand C39

ANDREW GEOGHEGANThis new Chocolate Box ring is a perfectexample of the bold and beautiful cocktailrings in the AG collection – in differentshades of green tourmaline it features aframe of diamonds. There’s also a versionwith red, purple and pink stones. Amongother show-stoppers will be Andrew’sFacebook Ring (designed with his Facebooklikers) and the Bridal collection. Stand A75

JUNGHANSGerman watch brand Junghans – establishedover 150 years ago – will be showing this Aerious Chronoscope model with itspilot watch characteristics. The sporty reinterpretation of the classic style featuresa black bezel and new dark dial design, aswell as ergonomically-formed and distinctivestainless steel pushers. Stand H151

SONAL TALGERI-BHASKARANThe designer behind Eastern Mystic jewelleryis launching her own eponymous label atthe show. The East-meets-West style that is also clear in her first brand, is now givenan architectural slant, merging industrialform and Indian symbolism for bold handmade pieces. Stand C12

SO JEWELLERYThere will be over 200 contemporary silver jewellery designs from So this year. Each pieceis coated with a rhodium finish and designs include silver set with brilliant-cut diamonds,freshwater pearls, amethyst, topaz and a collection of silver cufflinks sometimes set withmother of pearl or black onyx. Stand A81

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Come and see this fantastic collection over a glass of bubbly at Gecko’s IJL stand E31/F31or contact Gecko’s Sales team now on T: 01376 532 000 or E: [email protected]

2013 COLLECTION

ELEMENTS

T: 01376 532 000 F: 01376 532 001 E: [email protected]

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LONDON ROAD JEWELLERYIn addition to its latest Kew Bugs andPortobello Starry Nights collections, LondonRoad will be showing its new BloomsburyTassels as well as the Portobello Vintageline. In rose and yellow gold, the line includesa diamond-set lattice pendant and earringswhich reflect the wrought iron work foundon the buildings in and around Portobello.The stars of the Starry Nights collection are rose cut diamond pavé-set moon pendant and star pendant with a rhodiumplate finish. Stand G151


IJL Preview |

GECKOAs ever Gecko will be revealing the new trends from across its many ranges: new materials and textures from Fred Bennett; 60 new modern elegant designs using CZ andSwarovski Elements at Fiorelli Silver; organic pieces in rose, yellow and white gold, featuringdiamond set butterflies from Elements Gold and a new personalised engraving range fromD for Diamond. Stand E31

DOWER & HALLSeverine is one of a few new collectionsthat will be unveiled by the design duo atIJL and features pave set black spinelencased in rose gold vermeil. The lineincludes dainty pendants, beaded or cordbracelets, ear droplets and these longcurled earrings. Perfect for Christmas is theSilver Bells collection with silver open workbells as pendants or charms. Stand F89

HOLLERAmong the many names being shown onthe three DMJ stands is the Los Angeles-based watch brand Holler – and this will bethe first opportunity you will have to viewthem. Bold and different, the modelsinclude funky psychedelics in a wide rangeof vibrant colours. Stand F39

MISSOMAFollowing the success of its Maiya range,Missoma has extended the line to include asilver version in aqua chalcedony, lavenderchalcedony and amethyst quartz. Also newwill be the Talisman collection in amethystquartz and pink tourmaline quartz with black onyx pave, as well as a capsule pavé collection in colourful sapphire shades on silver. Stand H18

DOMINOFirst launched in 2008, Domino’s RosabellaCollection now comprises 82 pieces and IJLwill see the unveiling of the updated, trend-led line of earrings, pendants, neckwearand wristwear in 18ct white, yellow or rosegold. Cascading stones of graduating sizesand unusual setting styles are a key featureof the latest collection. Stand G141

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| IJL Preview


MOUNIRTaking inspiration from the history of his ancestors Mounir is introducing the Phoenician Bangleswhich feature a variety of gemstones, cut in marquise, cushion and round shapes. Stand E48

FEI LIUKnown for fusing his Eastern heritage withEastern influences, Fei’s inspiration for hislatest collection is the jasmine flower. The linecomprises pendants, rings and earrings inblack or white mother of pearl accented withCZ and set in sterling silver. Stand G131

AMOREHaving supplied independent jewellers with gold jewellery for the past 15 years,Amore is now launching new branded AmoreArgento Silver as well as Oro Gold collections.The modern designs are rhodium-plated setwith gemstones and CZ and both collectionsare available with complementary packagingand window displays. Stand E149

MASTERCUTArt Deco and the classic jewellery worn byHollywood starlets of the 1930s provides theinspiration for Mastercut’s Vintage collection.Complementing the rings are necklaces,earrings and versatile studs that can be wornwith a pave bezel for extra evening sparkle.Stand i130

DAVID PETERSON CLOCKSRegular IJL exhibitor David Peterson is aspecialist in carriage clocks, with a wide rangein both quartz and eight-day mechanicalvariations. Models are in 24ct gold or chromeplate on solid brass, with the companyoffering onsite dial naming facilities.Stand i150

FARAH QURESHIFarah will showcase a micro collection ofrings incorporating stones such as bluemoonstone matched with champagne diamonds, green peridot and pink tourmaline.Also showing is the Lady L collection withstones such as rose quartz, pink tourmaline,black diamonds. Stand B1

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KLESHNALuxe Glamour is one of two new collections to be unveiled by Kleshna at IJL this year. Shownhere is the Art Deco architecture of New York-inspired Major Liberty necklace, featuring angularcrystallised jet columns combined with Swarovski Element crystals and finished in sterling silver.Stand B39

ALFRED TERRYLaunching at IJL is the 1909 OriginsCollection – a range of 12 diamond rings ingold and platinum mounts – that celebratethe birth of the London mount maker. Also at the show will be the Portamentoline of stacking rings using white and blackdiamonds, various coloured stones and setin white, rose and yellow gold as well asenamel in black, white, navy, pink or purple.Stand H109

DINNY HALLShowing at IJL for the first time, Dinny Hallwill unveil some bold additions to her Almazcollection, which symbolises strength andendurance while maintaining a sensitivity toshape and form. Also new is the new YingYang collection – simple fluidity and eleganceat its essence. Stand E78

NIKKI LISSONIShowing along with other internationalnames (such as Wize & Ope and Morellato)on the DMJ stand is designer Nikki Lissoniwho creates jewellery in silver and rose andyellow gold plate, including these hand-fin-sihed coins which create interchangeablenecklaces. Stand F49

ARABEL LEBRUSANDesigner Arabel’s new Lace Collection features an intricate structure that offers amodern take on lace-making. In particularher inspiration derives from EnglishBedfordshire lace patterns and its history forthis 14-piece line. Arguably most striking arethe two-tone pieces in a mix of 18ct goldvermeil with either black rhodium vermeilor sterling silver. Stand D42

SUSHILLAThe four cocktail rings in Sushilla’s Daisycollection will be shown in new colourwaysthis year. The four faceted stones set alongside smaller stones are of contrastinghues and finished with a cluster of diamonds in the centre. Stand C11

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NOMINATIONParadiso is a new collection of ornate pendants, the signature piece of which depictsthe gates of Paradise. Created in stainless steeland highlighted with Swarovski zirconia theItalian-made collection comprises necklaces,bracelets and earrings. Stand F121

MARTICKA new modern Murano collection will be among the lines shown by Martick – including avintage range of necklaces (in limited quantities). The other key theme is ‘woodland’ with formsincluding foxes, squirrels and swallows.Stand F1

DIAMONFIREJust launched in the UK, Diamonfire offers analternative to traditional diamond jewellery,inspired by the glamour of Hollywood greats.Its Zirconia stone (measured in carats) hasamazing sparkle thanks to its 57-facet IdealCut (which was developed for diamonds)which is also certified according to thesame quality and criteria as a diamond.Stand F78

MURUAt IJL Muru is launching over 20 new designsas part of its Talisman Collection. Featuringmotifs from modern day life and ancientmythology each piece has a different meaningand comes with a gift card to explain itssymbolism. Designs are available in sterlingsilver or gold vermeil. Stand E21

MANU JEWELLERYOffering high quality, hand-made short production runs, German jewellery brandManu is known for its signature simple, contemporary forms in matte preciousmaterials. These silver rings are in sterlingsilver with 22ct gold and set with gold blue topaz and green tourmaline stones. Stand F118

CW SELLORSFamed for specialising in British stones, CWSellors will be launching its InternationalGemstones ranges including Hearts ofBarbados, Crystal Caves of Druzy andArizona turquoise. Shown here though is anew British stone for the portfolio – PreseliBluestone, of which the inner circle ofStonehenge is composed. Stand G71

DECIIn hammered yellow gold Deci London’shandmade jewellery is inspired by Byzantinework and features engraved emeralds andwarm garnets. Other collections are availablein silver, black rhodium plated silver, vermeiland solid gold. Stand C15

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Contact Gemvision to find out how

H149 at the IJL

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It is said that they first started life as a peanutbutter sandwich. Synthetic diamonds, that

is – what some call lab-created diamonds and the obstinately obtuse call ‘cultured diamonds’. They are diamonds producedfrom the same raw material as diamonds,which is carbon – hence the peanut buttersandwich – and they have the same structure on an atomic level and essentiallythe same properties. The only significant difference is that synthetic diamonds areproduced in a factory, not deep in the bowelsof the earth over interminably long periodsof time. Synthetic diamonds are thus a farcry from the CZs and moissanite that mightbe used to imitate or simulate diamond.

Rationally speaking, synthetic diamondsare a remarkable product, their manufacturea truly great human achievement. But mostof the conventional jewellery industry viewthem as a threat, and a threat they will remainuntil there are robust ways to separate themfrom the natural, or, as the more pragmaticmight argue, until a cost differential betweensynthetic diamonds and anything other than

exceptional natural diamonds becomeunsustainable. Of course there is nothingwrong about marketing synthetic diamonds,just as long as the buyer is aware of exactlywhat they are getting. And therein lays thechallenge – detection.

The prizeEver since the scientists worked out that diamond was just crystallised carbon, theyhave tried to replicate them. Back in 18thcentury France there was even a large prizeoffered for the first person to create a synthetic diamond. There were contendersbut no winners; no winners that is until centuries passed, the prize was long forgotten,and the boffins at General Electric Companyin America started playing around with peanutbutter sandwiches or whatever carbon-basedstuff they had hanging around in the lab, andmade the first synthetic diamond. Nowadayssynthetic diamonds are made in two ways.One process squeezes carbon at very highpressures and temperatures – in essencereplicating what happens in nature – and

the other process builds up diamonds bydepositing layer upon layer of carbon atoms.The first are called HPHT diamonds (HighPressure, High Temperature), the others CVDdiamonds (Chemical Vapour Deposition).Both types of synthetic diamond are nowbeing produced and are entering the market.

The wolfBack in the 1950s one observer describedthe spectre of synthetic diamond hitting thejewellery trade as the wolf at the jeweller’sdoor. You should be able to hear him howling now.

Synthetic diamonds weighing much morethan about three quarters of a carat or soare still rare – for now – but smaller ones are

increasingly common, both loose and set.For example, the GIA in Hong Kong recentlyreported being sent ten undisclosed CVDdiamonds all weighing around a third of acarat and in the F - H colour range. The GIAstated that their appearance was comparableto top-quality naturally-grown diamonds.The lab could detect them, but the averagedealer would not be able to. In India, a hugecentre for diamond cutting, a special committee has been established to help‘stem the flow’ of undisclosed synthetic diamonds. One impetus for this was thesubmission of 600 undisclosed syntheticdiamonds to a lab by an Indian company.


Feature |

The wolf at the doorJack Ogden former Gem-A CEO considers the challenge of synthetic diamonds.

If you think your 40 years ofdiamond-dealing experiencegives you some sort of sixthsense in spotting synthetics,you are deluding yourself.

'How can you tell if it is natural? Photo copyright Gem-A. �

| Feature


These are said to have ranged in size from0.3 - 0.7 carats, were mostly of F to J colourand of VVS – VS clarity. In China the NationalGemstone Testing Center issued a warningafter jewellery set with undisclosed CVD diamonds each weighing about 0.4 caratswas found, seemingly unknowingly set bythe manufacturer.

As this all shows, a well-equipped lab withsuitably trained and experienced staff candetect synthetic diamonds but there is no

simple, click-a-switch, detection method forthe dealer and retailer to use. Assuming youhave some training, there are some warningsigns, but there is not a universal, foolprooftest you can do in your shop or office, andthere isn’t one on the horizon. If you thinkyour 40 years of diamond-dealing experiencegives you some sort of sixth sense in spottingsynthetics, you are deluding yourself.

What now?Many jewellers buying diamonds probablystill carry on as they have done for years,hoping that fate smiles on them or, perhapsin a few cases, being in blissful ignorancethat there is a problem at all. If I was a cartoonist, I’d draw a jeweller dressed asLord Nelson looking at a diamond with hisloupe held to his blind, patch-covered eyesaying ‘I see no synthetics’.

The sad truth is that you are now taking a gamble when you buy a diamond or diamond set jewellery without reliablejustification to accept it as natural. There arenot that many synthetics on the market yet so the odds are on your side that youprobably won’t buy a synthetic diamondwithout knowing it, unless you are buyingfrom crooks. But the odds are shortening all the time and now is the time to decidewhat assurances and supporting paperwork

you want from your suppliers. Now is thetime to decide what size a diamond has tobe before you buy it only with a reputablelab report or at a price that reflects theexpense you will incur getting the necessaryreassurance that it is natural (and a money-back guarantee if it is not). And the time todecide what training you or your staff need.

Testing timesI don’t want to scare you, but the most logical advice I can give you is that you base your buying price for diamonds undera carat (for now), loose or in jewellery, onthe assumption that they are synthetic and will cost money to test, unless you have robust enough reason to stake your reputation on them being natural. In practice that might be a bit harsh for now, but start getting used to the concept.

Can you simply trust your suppliers? That isup to you, and how much you can find outabout the robustness of the processes theyhave set in place, but always remember thatat the end of the day it is your reputationthat is at stake.

You don’t need me to list the names ofthe major labs that have the best reputationin spotting synthetics, but do be aware that not all of the smaller labs have theequipment or expertise to be fully effectivein this area. So ask them about their procedures and read the small print carefully.When a lab says a diamond is natural (or not)it is merely an opinion; when you sell thestone and write or imply that it is natural you are guaranteeing that it is. There is agood rule of thumb here – always choose a lab that has a reputation as good as orbetter than yours. �

For more about Gem-A and the courses andseminars it offers on diamonds and othergems visit: ww.gem-a.com. Gem-A alsooperates a take-in service for GIA laboratoryservices relating to diamonds includinggrading, testing and batch testing.

If I was a cartoonist, I’d draw a jeweller dressed as LordNelson looking at a diamond with his loupe held to his blind,patch-covered eye saying ‘I see no synthetics’.

The diamond testers used by the trade, eventhe latest and sophisticated Multi II shown here,will not identify synthetics. Photo Gem-A.

'The SSEF Diamond Spotter will help identify if a diamond is a typethat may potentially be a CVD synthetic. Photo copyright SSEF.


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Architectural and Security Glass

Trade exhibitions obviously provide theideal opportunity for retailers to look for

new designs that they think will appeal totheir customers. If exclusivity is important, asit is for many premium retailers, in addition topurchasing stock, they may want to take anassignment of the rights in the design (usuallycopyright and Community Design right)from the owner. This will enable them to stopothers from selling the work and provides a‘guarantee’ to customers that they are buyinga piece of jewellery which is not availableelsewhere. The downside is that taking anassignment will increase the purchase priceas the seller will need to be compensatedfor loss of future sales of its design.

Simply buying the rights in a design ortaking a licence or even just buying a certainnumber of pieces for resale should not be the end of the story. This is particularlyimportant when purchasing from a person or

organisation that is not an established busi-ness partner or well known in the industry.

Even though a work attracts copyright ordesign right it may still infringe rights inanother work. It is therefore important to aska few simple questions to help ensure, as far as possible, that products aren’t being bought that infringe the rights of athird party.

Who owns the rights in the work?Without formal ownership of copyright in awork, or a suitable licence, a person cannotclaim any rights over that work and thereforecannot bring a claim for infringement.

Possession of the work does not equateto ownership of copyright in it. The author(or creator) of the work is normally considered the first owner of the copyrightin the work, unless it has been created inthe course of employment in which case the

employer is the first owner of the copyright.In the case of a commissioned work it isessential that the author assigns the copyright(and other rights) in the work to the commissioner in writing. Care must be takenin the event that a work is created by morethan one author (known as ‘joint authorship’)as it will be necessary for all the authors to assign their rights in the work before ownership is fully transferred. Rights of re-saleand enforcement can also be conferred in alicence arrangement.

The first question to ask is who createdthe design? If it was not the person selling it or their employee the purchaser needs to find out how the right to sell the designwas obtained.

Is the work original?If a work has been copied from or inspiredby another work there is a risk that it hasrelied too much on the earlier work and hasinfringed copyright in it. A useful question toask, therefore, is whether the work beingbought has been inspired by any otherwork? If it has, if at all possible a comparisonshould be made of the two and, if the laterrelies too much on the earlier one, proceedwith caution.

Is the work still protected? The protection a work receives under copyright law does not last indefinitely. Theduration of copyright in a work depends onthe type of work in question. The length of protection of copyright in jewellery (as anartistic work) is 70 years from the end of the calendar year in which the author dies.

This means that in practice, for mostmodern designs, the work is likely to still beprotected by copyright. However, it may alsoattract other rights, which will have a shorterduration. For example, the CommunityDesign right lasts for only three years afterthe work has been made available to thepublic. A purchaser therefore must be clearabout what rights they are buying andwhether these are valid for long enough toprovide the desired exclusivity?

This feature is provided for general guidanceonly and is not a substitute for taking specific legal advice on an individual basis.You can contact Sarah Hadland on 0118952 7142, [email protected] orvisit: www.boyesturner.com to learn more.

| Legal Jeweller


Copycats revisitedThe various rights that can arise from jewellery designs, as wellas the issues to be considered when buying and selling jewellery,are always crucial. With IJL almost upon us, now is a particularlygood time to keep them front of mind, says Sarah Hadland,(partner) and Nicholas Hardy (law graduate) of Boyes Turner

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W Hamond – which was acquired by CW Sellors, the Derbyshire-based

jewellery retailing and manufacturing group,in 1997 – is something of a landmark in the picturesque Yorkshire seaside town ofWhitby where it has stood on its imposingcorner site at the base of the 190 steps up tothe town’s ruined abbey for over 150 years.

The shop, decked out in its signature racing green and gold and bedecked withverdant hanging baskets, has – like Whitbyitself – an undoubted old-world charm; yetthere is absolutely nothing old fashionedabout this shop, the W Hamond brand orthe jewellery it sells.

CW Sellors has expanded and modernisedthe three storey building in which the shopis situated. This also houses a delightful contemporary-styled cafe which serves lightmeals throughout the day, and a tastefullydecorated and well-equipped flat, sleepingeight people, which is available throughoutthe year for holiday lets.

Also housed on the premises, behind aglass screen at one end of the shop, is ajewellery workshop where the company’sworkshop manager, Becky Tucker, plies herskills, resizing rings and creating bespoke

jewellery for customers while also sortingand polishing the ‘rough’ jet which is at theheart of the W Hamond brand.

Jet is an intensely black natural gemstoneformed from the fossilisation of the araucaria(or monkey puzzle) tree. It is now extremelyrare and a twenty mile strip of coastline, eitherside of Whitby, is the only place in the wholeof the UK where it can be found, althoughthere are some inferior jet deposits elsewherein the world particularly in Poland and Russia.

During the Victorian era, when the Whitbyjet industry was in its heyday and employingsome 2,000 people, jet was heavily mined.Today however the ‘seam’ is protectedbecause of concerns over coastal erosionand mining is strictly forbidden. Nor can jetbe blasted or hacked from the cliffs. It is atruly finite source and one that relies upona most unusual supply chain.

“We rely on local beachcombers andoccasionally farmers who find jet in theirditches to bring us supplies,” explains ChrisSellors, the company’s MD. In its raw statethe gemstone resembles rather uninterestinggrey/brown pebbles or slivers of slate.Looking for it on a local beach was, to myuntutored eye, like looking for a needle in ahaystack and even Becky, who works with jetall day long, says she has never found any!

To test whether or not it’s the real thingyou simply rub it across some sandpa-per where true jet leaves a distinctivebrown line. While most ‘finds’ are small

pieces (around 2” across) which havebeen torn from the cliffs in storms and

washed onto the beach, there is still theoccasional major discovery.

Thanks to a regular local supplier WHamond is the proud possessor of a veritablejet tree trunk, a huge plank about six feet

long in which it is possible to see the remainsof the tiny creatures that were trappedbeneath the tree when it fell all those centuries ago. There are plans afoot, as yetunconfirmed, to make this stunning objectthe centre piece of a W Hamond garden –naturally complete with monkey puzzle trees– at the 2013 Chelsea Flower show.

To reveal the black centre within jet’s ratherunappealing exterior you need a diamond-edged cutting wheel and plenty of water: aprocess made to look extremely easy in theskilled hands of Becky Tucker. Within secondsthe glorious, shiny interior of the stone wasrevealed before a light polishing with ‘rouge’brought an even greater depth and shine.

“In the old days the jet polishers in Whitbywere known as the ‘Red Demons’ becauseby the end of the day there were covered inred dust from the rouge,” explains Becky who,


Mixing with

The Jet SetW Hamond in Whitby has been selling jet jewellery since 1860and the stunning antique piece it lent to The BJA for its 125thAnniversary Exhibition – which can be seen once again at IJL –caused a real stir. Mary Brittain went to Whitby to find out more.

| BJA Feature

Diamond, Whitby jetand yellow gold bracelet

Close up of a piece of ‘rough’ unpolished jet

1880s jet necklacefeatured in the BJA exhibition

after a couple of years with the company,has become so fascinated by jet and soknowledgeable about its history that she nowgives regular talks on the topic. These talksare brought to life by W Hamond’s stunningselection of antique jet pieces – all of whichare for sale and many of which date back tothe early 1860s when, following the death ofPrince Albert, mourning jewellery sales wereat their height. These include some extremelysizeable necklaces featuring enormous beadsand hand-carved decorations, as well as earrings, bracelets and bangles some withprice tags of over £2,000.

It is however the contemporary jet designswhich really steal the show at W Hamond.The collection, which is ever-expanding, startsat around £159 for a ‘Cross Heart’ pendantset in silver and rises to over £8,000 for aneye-catching necklace in 18ct white gold withdiamonds. Some pieces are minimalistic intheir design featuring large stones and boldlines; others are much daintier and more

romantic and mix jet ‘Flowers’ and ‘Bubbles’with diamonds and other gemstones.

It would seem that jet has extremelywidespread appeal. Shop manager SallyRobinson was particularly enthusiastic aboutthe recent addition of dress and engagementrings into the range as these sell particularlywell to couples visiting the town on holidayand looking for a romantic souvenir.

At the other end of the customer spectrumare the many Goths who flock to Whitbyeach Halloween in celebration of the town’sclose association with Bram Stoker’s novel‘Dracula’ which took the abbey above theshop as its inspiration. At this time of the yearW Hamond dons a huge exterior spider’sweb (it wears snowflakes at Christmas) toget into the mood!

It was this web which first caught theattention of the fashion designer, and darling of the red carpet, Scott Henshall.Henshall, who was holidaying in theWhitby area, saw it while already think-ing about possible dress designs for theactress Donna Air to wear at the Londonpremiere of The Amazing Spiderman.

One thing led to another and after detaileddiscussions with Paul Barker, head jewellerat C W Sellors, an extraordinary piece ofbody jewellery featuring a couple of huge jetand silver spiders and a silver spider’s web,to be worn over a miniscule figure-huggingblack dress, was created.

It is a project which required real crafts-manship, vision and skill. Speaking aboutthe piece Paul – who has been with thecompany since he was 16 and learnt all hisskills on the job – very modestly comments:“It wasn’t really too different to the work wedo on a day-to-day basis, taking a customer’sidea of what they want, providing them with

options and advice on how it will work andlook and turning that image into a reality.This one just involved a lot more jet, diamonds and chain!”

This commission was not the first timethat W Hamond has crossed paths with theglitterati. The company’s building provided a perfect backdrop for the 2002 filmPossession which features an antique WhitbyJet brooch, worn by the actress GwynethPaltrow, as part of its central story line. Therewas also huge excitement recently whencomedian Adrian Edmondson visited theshop for the ITV programme Ade in Britainwhich looks at the story behind traditionalBritish firms. The programme will be aired inthe New Year.

“We shall be exhibiting at IJL (Stand G79)this year and look forward to showing visitorsour latest pieces and explaining to them thisfascinating stone’s continuing and evolvingsales potential,” says Chris Sellors.


View of the town of Whitby with the abbey on the cliff

Donna Air wearing the dress created forthe premiere of The Amazing Spiderman

Silver and jet bands

| Insurance Matters

It is a sad fact that high proportions of businesses affected by major damage, can

go out of business within 12 months withoutadequate insurance. The reasons are nothard to understand – business depends oncash flow. A major fire, or flood, for example,will destroy or severely diminish cash flowuntil the business can recover.

Recovery is not just about repairing thedamage; it is also about recovering turnover.That recovery may have to cope with competitors who have taken advantage fromyour absence for the market to steal yourcustomers, supposedly loyal customers, whomay have no choice but to go elsewhere.

Business Interruption Insurance replacesthe gross profit for the business for the period that the business is suspended by an insured risk, which includes the recoveryof customers phase. It is subject to a ‘maximum indemnity limit’, the maximumperiod of interruption for which the policywill provide cover.

While even cover with a short maximumindemnity period is better than none, many businesses select dangerously shortmaximum indemnity periods, so you’ll needto consider some of the factors which maybe involved in recovery from damage.

Many of the following steps can be heavily delayed if damage is widespread, e.g. after a major flood or storm, becausebuilders, architects and plumbers amongstothers become overstretched:

a) Initially you may be unable to accessthe site until it or nearby properties arerendered safe

b) Liaison periods with insurers, architectsand builders to assess the damage

c) Decision to repair, demolish andrebuild, or move permanently

Demolition, if necessary, will involve:• Tenders and acceptance• Delays before work begins• DemolitionMoving permanently will involve:• Search• Negotiation• Legal delays, possible change

of use• Fitting outMajor repairs or rebuilding may involve:• Architects and design work• Planning permission• TendersConstruction period and delays:• Before work begins• In finding specialist contractors

e.g. for listed buildings, special features or equipment

• Local regulations limiting deliveries of materials

• Lack of on-site storage• A need for additional works to

meet new building regulations• Shopfitting or fitting out of manufacturing

facilities, availability of equipmentPost construction recovery:• Build up of stock, especially if

antique or unique• Recovery of customers

Assessing accurately the maximumindemnity period needed by a business is ahighly skilled process that usually needs inputfrom local architects or surveyors. However,a few moments thought about some of the above stages in relation to other personal experiences shows that selectingjust the minimum 12 month period is veryunlikely to be adequate in the event ofmajor damage.

Some locations, for example in pedestrianaccess areas, narrow streets, or worst of all,

shopping centres can significantly extendthe period. In some cases, shopping centreshave taken up to four years to reopen fullyafter major damage.

A common response by businessmenconsidering longer indemnity periods is thatthey would move to temporary accommo-dation if disaster struck. That can be a goodsolution, and in the right circumstances onethat insurers will encourage, but how canyou be sure in advance that suitable accommodation will be available if andwhen you need it? How will trading from aless prestigious location affect yourturnover? You may have to sign a lease formore than 12 months on less attractiveterms than you currently pay. Moving may besensible, but if the location is poor theturnover may continue to be reducedbeyond the maximum indemnity period.

Extending your maximum indemnity period is likely to be less expensive than you might think. Doubling the indemnityperiod will not double the premium since the majority of interruptions will be ofshorter duration.

Business Interruption Insurance mayseem extremely complex, but it is wellworth discussing with your broker. It mayjust save your business.

Critical Coverfor when disaster strikesNeil McFarlane, MD of TH March explains why BusinessInterruption Insurance is so important.



Curteis is a very different organisation in2012 to the one it was 10 years ago. It’s

still a craft-based manufacturer with over 30years experience. What’s new though is theway in which it sees how it fits into the marketplace. The aim of brands is to dominateinstore display, which is understandable. Whatretailers are starting to realise however is thatpermitting this approach is losing them saleswith their regular sellers of chain, earrings andlockets for example, because they’re notbeing displayed to their full advantage.

Curteis’ current campaign is targeted toensure that customers realise what jewellershave to offer by getting these items back ondisplay. It has two elements, Curteis Packages,which are neat physical displays, and theCurteis Instore campaign, which is entirelyonline of which more later.

The ‘Packages’ include Curteis’ best-sellingchain, modern hand-assembled lockets, on-trend high quality silver collection and itsmost popular earring styles. The companysupplies a free POS display unit and freejewellery display blocks. Retailers can alsopersonalise their POS unit to feature theshop name or logo.

Ordering the Curteis Packages could not besimpler – simply choose from the packagesavailable (chain, earrings, lockets or ‘fresh’)and telephone Curteis’ sales team on thefreephone number: 0800 1956771.

To make the online ordering service fasterand easier the website is currently beingrelaunched. A major attraction is still freepostage, which is offered on all online orders.Instant, real-time information on prices, stockavailability, delivery, order tracking and muchmore besides is easily accessible.

In response to requests from customers,the company trialled the running of thewebsite with recommended retail prices for

a period last year. It worked extremely wellfor those who wanted retail priced products,and many items were sold using iPads intheir shops. Problems arose when otherwebsite visitors imagined that these werethe trade prices, and decided they were out-rageously expensive! Curteis found itselfbeing torn to shreds on jewellery forums, sosadly this service had to go!

Curteis Instore is nothing more than therelaunched version. It can be accessed oncevisitors have logged on to: www.curteis.com

From there jewellers will be able to displayrecommended retail prices. The layout isbeing adapted to fit more devices. It currentlyworks on PC, laptop and 10” tablet, such asthe iPad. The new version being worked on, will be useable on 7” tablets and smart-phones. It will work in portrait or landscapeto suit whatever devices customers chooseto work with. A new fibre optic link is beinginstalled and page download time will beunder a second for most users.

Selling this way will instantly add thousandsof products to a shop’s potential sales. Inaddition retailers will be able to view Curteis’latest jewellery collections and let your

customers guide you through the trendswithout having to invest in stock.

Also being launched in September is abrand new catalogue which also comes witha wall chart, featuring pendant chain andcomponents. New collections for Autumninclude a sterling silver contemporary familycharm locket. The ball locket opens toreveal three circle photo frames, completewith frames to take pictures. The rearencasement houses a charm of your choice,including initial, heart, butterfly, star, roseand key charm.

Noting that cufflinks are becoming morepopular with a younger generation, Curteis isalso introducing a brand new collection of 12 sterling silver cufflink designs. Stylesinclude modern stone-set, blackened colourpatterns and plain shapes. The existing cufflinkrange includes fun, novelty, corporate andformal styles, in 9ct gold and sterling silverand all come at excellent price points.

A D V E R T O R I A L

IJL 2012 STAND H141Curteis Limited, Caia Lane, Ellesmere,

Shropshire SY12 9EGFreephone: UK 0800 1956771

ROI: 1800 625163International +44 1691 690071

[email protected] www.curteis.com

Moving with the times…

Family charmlocket

Sterling silver cufflinks

Curteis ‘packages’

Instore selling campaign

| Ethical Jeweller


Should you care to step out of the reardoor of Capella’s workshop, you will

look across at dramatic Derbyshire hills, apicturesque railway viaduct and, very closeup, a field of toffee-coloured cows (no, Idon’t know the breed, this is The Jeweller,not Farmers’ Weekly!). It’s an incongruoustableau, given that behind you is the expected scene of heavy machinery (‘mills’as they are known) along with many andvarious forms of precious metals that areeither waiting to be processed, in process orrolling off the production line.

However, the bucolic idyll that providesthe backdrop to this gold refining businessis, I’d say, rather appropriate, underscoringas it does the principled ethos upon whichCapella is run. One of only three such businesses in the UK, last year the companyacquired a major feather in its cap bybecoming the only Fairtrade and Fairminedgold refinery in the country (and one of justtwo in Europe).

Admittedly this is still a pretty small part of the company’s business (“less than 0.1per cent” according to sales director Kevin Bloor) but that’s hardly Capella’s fault.Ethical gold, from a global, never mind UKperspective, is very much in its infancy – asa concept as well as in a physical sense.There’s not much of it around to refine asyet. Nevertheless, the fact remains that theBuxton company has been through all thenecessary (and lengthy) checks and issigned up (and pays handsomely for) theannual Flocert audits stipulated by theFairtrade Foundation to ensure that whenthe Fairtrade Fairmined gold rush does takeoff, Capella will be the go-to refinery.

“We can refine as much gold as they can throw at us,” says Bloor, “but we haven’tfound the demand to be massive becausebasically there isn’t the supply of Fairtrade gold. In my opinion it was almostlaunched too soon. As the artisanal minesare producing it they are only managing

to sell to their own country – mainly to control cash flow. The export of it hasn’treally been sorted out yet. The whole thingreally needs a relaunch.”

Regardless of this, Bloor is certain thatFairtrade Fairmined accreditation is the wayto go. “The extra cost of the gold might be aproblem, but the difference it makes to theartisanal miners – who have the chance tomake a proper living – makes it worth it,” hesays. “And for Capella, it’s an extra service, another string to our bow if you like.”

Of course, unless you’re being totallypurist or pedantic about it, Capella alreadyhas that ethical bowstring. “Everything wemake is 100 per cent recycled, so we’re just a step down from Fairtrade,” explainsBloor. Indeed, it was through Greg Valerioand ethical jewellers Cred, that the movetowards accreditation came about. Thecompany was supplying Cred with productsand the subject of Fairtrade Fairmined cameup. “We didn’t want to be seen as just jumping on the ethical bandwagon, but wecould see that this move would open newdoors for us. It was a progression and wewould fill a niche in the market,” he adds.

Valerio himself has no doubts about thewisdom of the refinery’s decision to godown the ethical route. “Capella haveshown the way in the UK in supporting theFairtrade gold process,” he says. “Knowing

The height ofRefinementBelinda Morris visits Buxton-based bullion dealer and preciousmetal refiner Capella and discovers that there’s ethical gold inthem thar hills…


Ethical Jeweller |

we have a UK-based refinery that will respectthe traceability requirements for FairtradeFairmined gold means we have a solidfoundation on which to build a UK-wideFairtrade gold revolution.”

The fact that Capella is willing and able tocomply with the Fairtrade stipulations, says much about the nature of the bulliondealer and refinery. “We class ourselves as asmall and flexible set-up which can reactquickly to customers’ needs,” says Bloor.“And when it comes to selling on recycledmetals, whether it’s to the smallest companies – including students – wanting

just a few grams, to the largest manufacturers,we don’t discriminate.”

The recycling aspect doesn’t end there.An additional service – and one that’sincreasingly being called upon these days – isdiamond recovery. Once was the time whencustomers selling scrap precious metals, orsending it for refinement, didn’t expect tosee any of their stones again – everythingwent into the melting pot. Times havechanged though – there’s lots more penniesbeing counted – and Capella carefullyremoves (through its chemical and electrolyticprocesses) any stones from a heap of metaland returns them to the customer.

“It definitely increases customers’ profits,”Bloor explains. “In the case of one particularlarge customer, the stone recovery amounts

to £40,000 a month.” Which is a lot of moneyby anyone’s standards. Nothing is thrownaway. Rather touchingly there’s even a jar,sitting on a shelf, full of cheap, cheerful andrandom bits of plastic (mostly charms andbeads of the not very desirable variety) thatno-one has the heart to bin presumably.

Capella is also obliging when it comes to how its customers – pawnbrokers, manufacturers, wholesalers and jewellers –are paid for their scrap. It might simply becash, or frequently the 99.9 per cent refinedsilver or 99.99 per cent gold is returned aswire, casting grain, sheet or coiled strips of

varying widths – whatever a manufactureror designer might require for jewellery production. And for investors Capella castsindividual batches of silver or gold into bars(250gms to 5kgs for silver and 50gms to 1kgfor gold) which are then assay-stamped.

The Assay Office (Sheffield in this case)plays an important role in the whole refiningprocess. While the staff at Capella have themeans (and the expert eye) to check thatscrap metal coming in is what the customersays it is (a desk-positioned X-ray machinedoes a double check), an assay report on asample will verify the claim (or otherwise).Everything is very upfront and fair – in factthere are the odd occasions when a customer has underestimated the qualityand therefore the value of his scrap (which

could be anything from assayed bars anddiamond-set jewellery to bench sweeps and residue). In which case Capella willnote it and adjust things accordingly. “We’revery honest,” laughs Duncan Marshall, thefactory manager.

He also explains that because theirs is asmall team, which has been working togetherfor a long time, the possibility of makingchanges to methods of working is alwaysthere. In practice this could come down totweaks in processes that make them moreenergy efficient, keeping factory overheadsdown and thus the business is cost-effective.Keeping prices competitive is a key goal.

Between them the Capella team has morethan 80 years’ experience in the business.Bloor and fellow director Roy Masseyworked together at Auro Argento, which wasthen bought by Cooksons and the factoryrelocated to Birmingham. Unwilling to makethat geographic move Bloor and Masseydecided to set up their own business.“There was room in the market for a smallcompany that could supply raw preciousmetal and materials to the trade,” Bloorsays. Then, around six years ago, as theprice of gold started to rise, Capella realisedthat it needed its own supply. “The cheapestthing to do was to buy scrap and refine itourselves,” he explains. “And then the goldprice really went through the roof!”

Clearly this is a situation that shows scantsigns of changing anytime soon – never hasrecycling seemed quite so attractive andpertinent, with the ethical feel-good factorthrown in for good measure.

“We didn’t want to be seen as just jumping on the ethicalbandwagon, but we could see that this move would opennew doors for us…”

In my earlier article (July 2012) I suggestedthat the raw economics of the diamond

supply chain demonstrated that if there is aloss of consumer confidence in the product,due to a lack of Kimberley Process CertificationScheme (KPCS) reform, a sizable chunk ofthe monetary value in the industry mightsuffer. This would have a knock effect rightthrough the diamond supply chain, adverselyaffecting the diamond producing countriesas well as the A list brands who rely on the brand value of the diamond retaining itsconsumer appeal.

What is clear from the ongoing discussionsis that we all want the KPCS to succeed. Wewant the diamond-producing nations of theworld, mostly in Africa, to prosper. The wealththat diamonds can bring to benefit themajority as well as to enhance democracyand transparency – and also work towardsthe eradication of human rights abuses – isnot insubstantial.

The reform agenda for the KPCS is vital ifwe are to stop the erosion of its credibility.

The current Chair (America) is clear that theestablishment of a permanent secretariatand the incorporation of human rights intothe definitions of what constitutes a blooddiamond is one that as jewellers we shouldbe vocally supporting. However with India,China and Russia, as well as the AfricanDiamond Producers Association (ADPA) the

deadlock and mistrust seems entrenched asnone of these parties sees any need tochange the KPCS.

What does this mean for those of us thatsell diamonds in our jewellery? It wouldappear that unless there is a resolution tothe impasse, we might be heading for whatis being referred to as a KP+ system – a system that would require a higher level ofdue diligence and traceability on stones, both

rough and polished, coming into the EU andNorth America. This would require othermeasures being introduced to govern anyprotocols that would emerge, such as EUlegislation. Yet to protect our industry fromdiamonds that are contributing to human rightsabuses, this may be the price we have to pay.

Additionally, if the KPCS fails to resolve itsinternal issues, we at least will have a muchclearer idea of what needs to happen toclean up the industry. For example, goodsmanufactured in China will become tainted,as they may contain blood diamonds fromMarange. The silver lining here is that, if youcannot trust Chinese-manufactured goods,you will need to manufacture in the UK. Nota bad move if you are a UK manufacturer andcertainly a business opportunity. One thingis for sure – consumers will be made awareof the issues and Chinese-manufacturedgoods may come under pressure.

We are not powerless to influence change.The NAG and BJA are active at the momentin exploring the options and choices availableto us as an industry. Also they are fullyengaged in the broad industry discussionson what the future will look like. In fact whathas become clear is that there is a currentlack of vision on what we want the UK diamond market to look like, and it is precisely this vacuum of critical leadershipthat presents us with the opportunity toshape the future and the NAG and BJA areforming that vision as I write.

To conclude, I have a series of questions tothe KPCS Chair I am waiting a reply on that Iwill publish on my blog www.gregvalerio.comand www.fairjewelry.org in due course, thatI hope will be able to offer even more clarity on the diamond issue.

I am optimistic that with clear leadershipwe can create a jewellery market that is notcorrupted by diamonds tainted with humanrights violations.

Greg Valerio is the founder of CRED Jewellery,an architect of certified Fairtrade Gold and co-founder of Fair Jewellery action, ahuman rights and environmental networkof jewellers across seven countries.

| Ethical Jeweller


In the second part of his feature on diamonds, Greg Valerioexplains how a Kimberley Process reform agenda should offer clarity on the issue of tainted stones.

Diamonds – what onearth is happening?

The NAG and BJA are active at the moment in exploring theoptions and choices available [and] are fully engaged in thebroad industry discussions on what the future will look like.


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| Security


Back in 2009 when we realised there wasa need for something extra to give crime

detection in the jewellery sector a boost, welittle realised that some three years later wewould be looking at such a resounding suc-cess. Nor did we realise that police numberswould be so badly strained by austeritymeasures. But here we are in 2012 with fewerpolice and little sign of crime diminishing. Ifanything the dramatic fluctuations in theprice of gold has made it more attractive tothe dishonest. While some of the privatesecurity firms are having a torrid time overthe Olympics (and I have my own misgivingsabout the privatisation of this aspect of public service) I think we have to be realisticabout the world we live in and acknowledgethat SaferGems is one of the greatest benefitsthe NAG has initiated.

The figures for January to June 2012 tendto bear this out. During that period 369crimes and suspicious incidents wererecorded by SaferGems (compared to 293during the same time period in 2011); 79alerts were circulated to industry (comparedto 90 during the same time period in 2011);60 alerts and analytical reports were providedto police (not recorded during 2011); this leddirectly to seven arrests and two convictions.As important, if not more so, we received 59reports from members that our alerts hadprevented crimes against them or others.

It is these personal stories that make thiswork so rewarding. Take this recent anecdotethat was related to me by one of our analysts. Apparently, “one of our memberswas in court a couple of weeks ago (for someunknown reason), when a Romanian manwalked into court for a theft from a bookies.

He was followed in by his mum and dadwho were there to provide their innocentnon-English speaking little cherub a bit ofmoral support, when our jeweller jumped upand shouted to security that he recognisedmum from one of our alerts and that she wasresponsible for a jewellery theft this timelast year. She was arrested by attendingpolice officers and is now bouncing betweenvarious police forces across the North West& North East regions being interviewed fornumerous jewellery thefts”.

It is this kind of personal involvement thatis at the root of SaferGems’ success, and ofcourse the many interactions with front lineofficers that are too numerous to list here.But before I turn to other matters it is worthsaying that we are noticing that membershave a greater awareness of the threat of

distraction/sleight-of-hand offenders and asa result we appear to be reducing the number of incidents where items are stolen.We have advised that members always havea last look inside gift boxes, especially when‘customers’ leave the shop to get moneyetcetera. There has also been an increase inthe number of members reporting incidentsof fraud where people are contacting jewellers over the telephone and attemptingto purchase high value items with stolencredit cards. We have advised members thatif they have any concerns regarding suspecttransactions to contact their banks prior tocompletion. SaferGems website address:www.safergems.org.uk

Retail Security ConferenceSo much for intelligence. Many jewellers aremore than a little confused about whatphysical security equipment is best for theirparticular type of business. The range ofchoice, the constant updates and the continuous technological advances makethe possibilities even more bewilderingwhen it comes to deciding what suit fits.However, there are some fundamentalissues surrounding the standards that applyto safes, glass and alarms that cannot beignored when choosing security equipment,and that is why the NAG is working with itsofficial insurance brokers T H March to bringyou an opportunity to put these standardsto the test. The theme of our conference isloss prevention, and the intention is to bringdelegates an agenda that explores the theorybehind security standards, and gives somegraphic practical demonstrations. The eventis being held at the Building ResearchEstablishment (BRE) near Watford, whichcarries out research, consultancy and testingfor the construction and built environmentsectors. It is also a UKAS Accredited TestingLaboratory and its sister company, BRE Globalis an independent approvals body offeringcertification of fire, security and sustainabilityproducts and services. Where better to putsecurity products to the test?

With SmartWater Technology and Bandit(UK) Ltd already confirmed as sponsors,and others waiting in the wings, we alreadyhave an excellent line up with slots on shopfacades, safes, glazing, and alarms, withmore to be confirmed. We are planning topack a lot into the day and by making it freefor members we’re expecting excellentattendance. A there is an upper ceiling on numbers because of the nature of the demonstrations involved I advise gettingyour name down early by contacting Ritu at:[email protected]

Securely notMichael Hoare emphasises the tremendous achievements ofSaferGems since its launch, and reminds that the NAG’s forthcoming Retail Security Conference will offer vital data on physical safeguards.

I think we have to be realistic about the world we live in andacknowledge that SaferGems is one of the greatest benefitsthe NAG has initiated.


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Jean Després is a curious character in theworld of fine jewellery: one of the most

exciting and celebrated designers of the1920s and 1930s, he enjoyed a career thatspanned most of his 91 year life, and yet his name is now not nearly as well knownoutside of jewellery collectors’ circles as thescale of his innovation perhaps merits.

Early lifeJean Després began his life as the 19th centurywas reaching its end. He was, like so manyfamous names in the jewellery field, (more orless) born into the jewellery business. Born toOctave Després and his wife Maria Turlin in1889 in Souvigny, the one year old Jean movedwith his parents to the town of Avallon in 1890,

where Octave and Marie opened a shop sellingjewellery and objets d’art that same year. In1898, the year that Jean’s sister Yvonne wasborn, the family relocated again, this time to abuilding in the same town, 20 Place Vauban,where the family had their shop and home.

So, having been raised above a jewellerystore, Jean decided, as soon as the timecame, to stay in the family trade. In 1903,when he was still just a young teen, he leftAvallon for Paris, to take up an apprenticeshipwith a silversmith friend of his father’s. Quitehow he found life in Le Marais (where thesilversmith had his workshop) in turn of the century Paris, after what must havebeen a comparatively sleepy life in his smallBurgundy town is interesting to ponder;

what is known, though, is that he showedgreat promise in his apprenticeship and aclear dedication to his art. The young manstudied several evening courses after work,where he honed his drawing skills, andspent even more of his social time at theBateau-Lavoire, a famed meeting place forartists, art dealers, writers and theatre folk.Here, Després met and befriended a quitestartling list of famous names, including DeChiciro, Vlaminck, Modigliani and Signac,many of whom were an influence on hisown burgeoning style. It must have been avery exciting time and place to be youngand creative. (In fact, one of these artistacquaintances went on to become JeanDesprés’s closest friend: the celebrated Cubistartist Georges Braque. Given that Braquewas a lifelong artistic rival of Pablo Picasso,it is a quite splendid irony that Després –who himself apparently disliked the Spanishpainter and sculptor – became known asthe ‘Picasso of silverware’).

The WarLike many a fledgling talent at that time,Després found his career brought to anabrupt halt in 1914, at the outbreak of theFirst World War. He left his jewellery-makingapprenticeship that same year, signing up tothe infantry as part of a cycling unit (yes, really).He was at the time an accomplished cyclist,having won several races, so there was obviousappeal for the sporting young man; he was,however, later transferred to the air force, initially as a mechanic.

AntiqueJ E W E L L E R YDesprés – the modern masterJo Young reflects on the life of the French jeweller Jean Després and hisinfluence on modern design.

| Antique Jewellery


Again, like so many artists and designers beforeand after him, Després was greatly influencedby his part in the war. In his case, his role inthe conflict had a very clear and visible influenceon his later creative work; he was shifted frommechanic work to draughtsmanship as soonas his graphic drawing skills were recognised,and it was his experience of drawing the manycomponents of aircraft engines that helped toshape the look and feel of much of his mostcelebrated jewellery.

Starting the businessA second, more personal, tragic event conspiredto shape the course of the designer’s life when,in 1919, his sister Yvonne died of the Spanishflu that swept Europe in the years immediatelyfollowing the end of the war. Instead of returning then to his life in Paris, at the heartof the city’s artistic community, Desprésreturned to Avallon to look after both his family and to work for his family business. He was, at this stage, still only 20.

However, despite the stalling of his Parisplans, Després showed the same commitmentand ambition in Avallon as he did in the capital.The following year, he opened a workshop ofhis own at the back of the store on Place

Vauban, where he began designing and makinghis own avant garde jewellery and silverware.He worked incredibly hard, producing reamsof drawings for each of his proposed pieces ofjewellery and silver.

The Machine AgeUnlike some people at the time, one ofDesprés’ great talents was in recognising thepotential of the huge boom in industrialisationthat the world was witnessing in the 1920s,rather than resenting it as a threat or fearingthe rate and scale of change. Indeed, the creative world was ablaze with new ideas,post-war euphoria and a love of all things

new. Després’ enthusiasm for industrial styleand design was immediately evident in hisown work; his jewellery is determinedly geometric, architectural, mechanical-looking.Of course, he wasn’t alone – in the art world,the Fauvist and Cubist movements werefounded on the principles of simplicity andgeometry (the latter by, among others, thejeweller’s friend Braque). In 1918 in Paris, the Purist movement had been founded by Le Corbusier and Amédée Ozenfant to celebrate ‘rejection of ornament’ and a similarreturn to functional, pure design principleswhile Bauhaus was doing something similarin Germany. �


Antique Jewellery |

It was his experience of drawing the many components of aircraftengines that helped toshape the look and feel of much of his most celebrated jewellery.

| Antique Jewellery


So, Després was in good company as far assome of his artistic ideas were concerned. Whatsets him apart as a designer and as a jeweller,I suppose, is the fact that he was so intenselyinterested in the real look and feel of machines;the nuts and bolts that were defining an age.He himself cited ’the science of mechanics’ asone of his influences, which, he said, “involvesa wholly modern discipline based on precision,robustness and the rejection of anything useless or complicated”.

Després contributed to all the major exhibitions – including the famous ExpositionInternationale des Artes Decoratifs etIndustriels Modernes. He realised, rathershrewdly, that as a designer working outsidethe somewhat incestuous, creative heart ofParis, he needed to establish himself throughthese shows. Showing characteristic ambitiousdetermination, he exhibited at the Salons,putting his work firmly under the scrutinisingnoses of the fashion movers and shakers.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, given the ruthlessnessof his design aesthetic, Després did not enjoyuniversal critical acclaim; in fact, he got adecidedly lukewarm reception when he beganexhibiting under his own name from 1928.So controversial was his jewellery deemed tobe, that the Salon d’Automne refused to evenshow it, calling it “too modern”.

By 1930, Després had become increasinglyinvolved with the Paris Salons – even havingbecome a member of the Salon that hadearlier dismissed him – and had more orless established his artistic reputation. It wasat this same time that he began makingjewellery inspired by his WW1 experiencesof aviation draughtsmanship; in a move thatwas extremely radical in jewellery at the time,he literally depicted machine parts in hiswork, including bolts, rods and crankshafts.

Throughout the 1930s, whenthe world was plunged into economic depression and moneywas not flowing nearly as freely asit had during the Roaring Twenties,Després continued to churn outwork at a rapid rate, exhibitingat all the major Parisian exhibi-tions. His work, however, tookon a slightly less radical – morewearable – feel, yet still inspiredby the machines of the age,specifically cars and aeroplanes.

In 1938, the year after he metand married the artist SimoneDelattre, Després exhibited atthe Exposition des Arts Decoratifsin Brussels – effectively enjoyinghis first real international success –and the following year, firmly cementinghis success, he was made a Chévalier de laLegion d’Honneur.

Of course, in 1940 everything changed forParis: German occupiers arrived in the city atthe beginning of the summer, a move thataffected, naturally, every aspect of life for allParisians. Jewellers specifically were affectedby the halting of the trade in gold and preciousmetals. The ever-determined Després, however,carried on regardless, making his jewelleryfrom clients’ materials or when that option wasnot available, working in non-precious metalslike bronze and copper.

After the war and into the 1950s, he continued to work at the same steady rate as he had previously, adding more gold pieces

to his jewellery mix, but by the1960s he was choosing to work lessand less in jewellery, focusing hisattention instead on metalwork and objects, with the exception ofprivate client pieces.

Right up until the end of hiscareer, though, he retained theability to surprise. For example, in1970, at the Salon d’Automne

(the very one that had sniffily dismissed him as ‘too modern’ allthose years before) he unveiledan entirely new range of jewellery that was decorated withuncut gemstones – then a rather

unusual thing to do. He was 81 at the time.After his wife Simone died in 1973,

Després began giving away his jewelleryand work to the Musée des Arts Decoratifs inParis, and some four years later he had becomeill and ceased working for good. Always with akeen understanding of the importance of aprofessional reputation, Després asked for hisworkshop – which he had run through thevast majority of his life – to be closed in orderthat his name, his work and his style wouldremain ever his own.

Like all the very best (I believe) jewellers,Després was first and foremost a designerand an artist (although he himself apparentlyhated the term artist, preferring ‘artisan’, with the sense of no-nonsense manual workthat that title implies). His contribution to theworld of early 20th Century design and aesthetics was not only significant in its ownright, but was demonstrably influenced by –and part of – the artistic movements at thetime. His work was very much of its time, but – in contrast to the safety of the kind ofbeautiful, ‘timeless’ jewellery we’re used toseeing and revering – it is hugely exciting inthe way that it incorporated so much of theworld in which Després lived.

As his biographer Melissa Gabardi so eloquently puts it, “Després’ creations areworks of architecture, often characterised by asurprising inventiveness that marks him out as one of the major figures in the history of modern jewellery. His objects inspired byCubism, Futurism, industrial design and modernmachinery are still on the cutting edge of technical experimentation, even now, fifty yearsafter they first appeared”. �

Vase showing Désprés’ mark on the base

The Executive Development Forum. Feel the benefits!

EDF

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You have the jewellery knowledge so we concentrate on business development and improvement. Always bearing in mind the special nature of the sector and that each business is unique.

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WIIFM! That inevitable question – What’s in it for me?

Well for a start you are losing the isolation many independents feel; you are part of a supportive community.

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Why not you? The EDF members are keen to improve their businesses and they do!

Just like you they have challenges, skills, management issues and limited time to cover the multitude of tasks in running a jewellers. But most of all they are determined to win!

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So what… Look, we could go on for hours extolling the virtues of the EDF and still not answer that one question that you want to ask. So we won’t.

But that doesn’t answer your burning question. So pick up the phone and talk to Amanda on 020 7613 4445 who will give you all the information you need.

| Regular


Jewels in Spain: 1500 – 1800 by Priscilla E Muller (£58, Ediciones El Viso through ACC)First published 40years ago, but onlynow available inEnglish, this guide tojewels made in Spainand the New Worldduring the reign ofthe Hapsburg and

Bourbon dynasties has been revised andupdated by the author – including newcolour images. She puts into historical context the work of Spain’s plateros – (silverand goldsmiths) who, in 1552 were officially recognized as artist-craftsmen(rather than merely trained workingmen).Thus inventiveness was awakened. Imagesof the jewellery, as well as of the works ofartists such as Velazquez, illustrate this thorough and fascinating reference book.

Fashion Jewellery: Catwalk and Coutureby Maia Adams (£9.95, Laurence King)This is a mini edition of Adams’ originalbook which, arranged by designer, profiles33 international fashion jewellers who combine traditional techniques and cuttingedge methods to create their own, individual style ofjewellery. Her choiceof artists – whetherfine jewellers or con-ceptual designers –encompasses thosewho push the boundaries at a time when fashion jewelleryis riding the crest of a wave. It is not about‘costume’ jewellery – which was designedto look ‘real’ – but about innovation andpacking a punch.

Sales & ExhibitionsSeptemberNow until 16th Sept, 2012: A Sense ofPlace: New Jewellery from the NorthernLands. National Museum of Scotland,EdinburghAn exhibition exploring the relationship contemporary jewellers from northernEurope have with their environment.www.nms.ac.uk

20th-10th February, 2013: Van Cleef & Arpels: L’Art de la Haute Joaillerie, Les Art Décoratif, ParisOver 400 piecesby the renownedFrench jewelleryhouse will beshown togetherwith documentsand drawings thattrace the history ofVan Cleef & Arpels as well as a chronologyof its creations and technical inventions.www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

24th-30th & 2nd-7th October: Goldsmiths’Fair, Goldsmiths Centre, LondonAnnual two week event (closed on 1st Oct)showcasing the work of 180 contemporaryjewelers and silversmiths. This year the Faircelebrates its 30th (pearl) anniversary.www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

Jewellery & Watch Trade FairsAugust23rd-27th: India International JewelleryShow, Bombay Exhibition Centre, MumbaiOver 800 exhibitors, from both India andelsewhere, offering gems and jewellery.www.iijs.org

September2nd-5th International Jewellery London,Earl’s Court, LondonEstablished jewellery manufacturers togetherwith new young design talent, plus gemstones, jewellery services and trendseminars. See page 50 for full preview. www.jewellerylondon.com

2nd-5th: Autumn Fair: NEC BirminghamFashion jewellery and accessories alongsidegift and home sectors.www.autumnfair.com

8th-12th: VicenzaOro Fall, Fiera di Vicenza, Italy International exhibition for gold and platinumjewellery, costume jewellery, gemstones,equipment and accessories.www.choicevent.it

19th-23rd Hong Kong Jewellery & GemFair, AsiaWorld Expo, Lantau3,400 exhibitors showing gems and jewellery.http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com

23rd-25th: Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn,SECC, GlasgowA three-day show with a range of exhibitorsacross the jewellery and gift sectors.www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk

October 2nd-10th: MideEast Watch & JewelleryShow, Sharjah, UAEFor buyers with particular interest in gold anddiamond watches and jewellery.www.mideastjewellery.com

5th-8th: Intergem, Intergem Messe, Idar-Oberstein, GermanyGems and gemstone-set jewellery.www.intergem.de

21st-24th: Dubai International JewelleryWeek, Dubai World Trade Centre, UAEGlobal and regional manufacturers showingin three distinct shows.www.jewelleryshow.com

26th-28th: Gemworld Munich, NeueMesse, Munich, GermanyMinerals, gems, jewellery and fossils. www.gemworldmunich.com

27th-29th: Euro Trophex, PTA, Amsterdam,NetherlandsAn exhibition of cups, trophies and awards.www.eurotrophex.com

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PRESMAN MASTERMELTThe oldest ‘Trade Only’ Counter (est. 1945)

Jewellery Scrap BuyersTry our Free Post service

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For daily scrap prices or more info 020 7400 3400 / mastermelts.co.uk56 Hatton Garden, Mon-Fri 9.00am-4.00pm

NICHOLAS INTERIORS LtdFine Retail Solutions

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| Regular


Who has been the biggest influence on your life?Personally – my mother was the biggestinfluence on me. She was a strong, kind,feisty Yorkshire woman. Business-wise it wasmy old and well-respected boss at Cartier,Phil Ryder. He taught me to meet and speakwith everyone and to get out and about – “asyou learn nothing sitting in the office”.

Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why?Anywhere private with its own pool and withthe people I love.

What three words describe you best…in your view and according to others?Driven, determined and considerate. Others Ihope might say – professional, respectedand a team-player.

If you could wave a magic wand andchange one thing about the jewelleryindustry, what would it be?Having worked in the luxury watch industry,the diamond industry and the jewellery/fash-ion industry I see how separate they can all

be. I would wish that we were all closer as weall have the same problems and aspirations,work with the same customers and can learnso much more from each other.

Looking back at your career, what onething would you do differently if youhad your time over?I would change nothing. I believe that what’sfor you doesn’t go past you.

To what do you attribute your success?Luck, hard-work, being in the right place atthe right time and working with a fabulousteam of people.

If not the jewellery industry, what mightyour alternative career have been?I always wanted to own a cheese shop witha really nice delicatessen that serves coffeeand great cakes.

Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country!) Why?I shop twice a year in a great ladies store inYork. She throws me stuff. I try it on. And leavewith a big bag of new things.

What was the last film you saw at the cinema?Err… some matinee cartoon with my 12-yearold step-daughter Liv and her cousins Rosyand Jed (9 and 7 respectively)! By the way Livtold Rosy when asked what I did for a living“Judith talks a lot and drinks champagne!”Hmph, I wish…

Tell us something not many peopleknow about you…I love motorbikes. I left Cartier to go to HondaUK. I ran a British Supersport and Superstockrace team. I have ridden most UK and someEuropean race-tracks on track days, and havetoured Europe many times on a motorbike.Currently in retirement.

Do you Tweet?Not really. Been hacked into twice and onlymanaged to tweet myself I think!

What is your chosen form of exercise?Walking the dog and carrying sample cases.

Quick Fire• Red or white wine? White• Diamonds or coloured stones?

Diamonds• White or yellow metal? White metal• TV or radio? Radio• Jewellery on men? Yes or no?

Not really – depends on the man• Delegator or control freak? Control freak• Beatles or Rolling Stones? The Stones• Paperback or e-reader? Paperback

Last WordThe

The Last Word in our IJL issue goes to recently-married JudithLockwood, IBB Amsterdam’s Country Manager UK, looking afterpopular brands Ti Sento Milano and Charming-by-Ti Sento

Personal ProfileJudith has been involved in the trade for 24 years – working with luxurybrands such as Gucci and Cartier and bringing Hearts On Fire diamonds tothe UK market. As an agent/distributor she and her business partner workedwith brands and designers from all over the world, sourcing, designing,importing and hallmarking platinum, 24ct gold, Italian fashion preciousjewellery and silver fashion jewellery. This led her, in 2008, to IBB Amsterdamand Ti Sento. Since then she has built a strategic distribution networkthrough hand-picked UK retailers which helped to award the brand theaccolade of ‘Jewellery Brand of the Year’ 2010 and 2011.

B E R I N G S L I M C E R A M I CFlat HighTech-Ceramic and Scratch Resistant Sapphire Crystal,

Swarovsk i, Steel Case, 3-Year International Warranty

£ 169,-

i n s p i r e d b y a r c t i c b e a u t y

as seen in:

or contact Henrik Leth Møller at BERING Time Ltd

Phone 07938705688 / [email protected] for more info on how to become a BERING stockist.

www.tresorparis.comwww.facebook.com/TresorPariswww.twitter.com/tresorparis

It’s Time...

IJL E39 and I49

Documents

Jeweller September 2012