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Pagina �1
Trekking in the southern Morocco
Travelouge
bacelix editions
I’ve never seen so many stars
Pagina �2
But the camel has one or two Humps?
Moon photographed by my friend Luca in Bergamo
Premessa:
People who had the possibility to cross part of Morocco tell that, when approaching the desert, you ask yourself if the landscape you are watching is real or comes from a cinema screen; green is too brilliant, red is hot red, sky is very clear.An immense “tavolozza” swang by the Arab music till the last village before the when the trail becomes at once straight and the absolute “nothing” is around you. The street seems to be endless but in the distance you can see the desert and it is so beautiful to take your breath away. Massimo’ diary is not different from these reports; his notes , even overview, give back the sense of a happy disorientation that a hill trekker feels when he is in an enchanting millenary environment. Here is his yearning thought to the night sky: ”I couldn’t sleep this night, without wind, so I opened my sleeping bag only for my head out of the tent. In an hour I noticed seven falling stars, not to speak about the clear landscape that was over me. I have never seen so many stars. Maybe because I saw only a small part of the moon and I fell asleep.Massimo’s words are a kind of country report by a traveler of the nineteenth century , only technology is different not feelings, amazement, labors, enthusiasm, discovery, green tea, camels, local guides, brace fire bread, desire to go far away and then to return there, measured steps to safeguard resources and long tours only useless but he made all that to taste the wonderful freedom of loneliness.A ten-‐day trip from 15 to 28 January without a too long preparation, guided only by the instinct of a respectful traveler whose unique track of his passage is a foot print and the mark of the wheels of his trolley. All this remind to an old Tuareg saying:” Start your way even if the you don’t like the moment, because when you arrive you will appreciated it”. Maybe this is what Massimo has felt.
We will ask him to tell us.
Giuseppe Zambaiti
Pagina �3
Mountains around me take my breath away, Their sides and ridges seem to be modeled. By the hand of the Creator himself.
15 January 2015 Starting to Marrakesh
Malpensa Terminal 2
I thought about it for many days; trolley yes –no, rucksack yes – no, and at the end I decided for the trolley without rucksack or better with my domestic 20 l. rucksack I use for my outdoor walkings. Another change because I use a body building belt to change draught position from two side bars to a support point and central draught on my back. My daughter Sara accompanied me to Bergamo for the shuttle bus to Malpensa. I think of my new adventure trough Southern Morocco and how I decided to start. I write some lines while sitting at my place number 16 F of Airbus 320 – Easy Jet: I see a lot of clouds on my right till at the feet of a mountain chain that seems endless, the Alps. I visited part of Marrakesh where I lost myself in its “suks” while walking in the center of an old city. From Marrakesh to Tizi n-‐Tichka pass for 210 kms on tortuous roads, with snow and traffic till 2250 meters of height.
Pagina �4 Ma il cammello ha una o due gobbe?
31 kg trolley, included sleeping bag, tent
Down to Ouarzazate, famous because there are the sets of many films: The Gladiatore, The Mummy, Laurence of Arabia… and then Zagora. Here the desert siteof Sahara starts, in the south west of Morocco, I followed tracks and roads you can hardly call with that name, I crossed valleys and fords almost dried waiting with anxiety the sunset and the sunset was waiting for me every evenings like a friend. From Taguine to Foum for 200 kms through a dried lake
in a desert and plane place for about ten days, with Hamed and his camel; I found water to drink and cook in the deep wells dag in the stony soil. Then Foum Zguid, Tazenakht, Tallouine, Taroudant and at least Agadir.
Pagina �5
Marrakesh 16 January 2015 As a first day I think to a urban trek in the old Marrakesh. Starting from my hotel i will take the main street dedicated to the king Mohammed V till Jemaa el-‐ Fna that means the Dead Assembly. Once it was used as a stage for executions and exhibition of cut skulls. luckily today it is only one of the most famous squares in the world for its Suks and morning and night shows for tourists. Out of my hotel i find a foggy climate with a thin rain with 12 degrees and a 95% humidity. I walk to Medina but my GPS doesn’t work a from my map i could not recognize the streets, so i go to the opposite direction and I walk for 12 km to the square instead of 4. This is one of the reason why it is good to be alone. Everything you do is good and no one can complain. My target is to travel and also if you go to the opposite way you can always see something new. As I approach to the center the more traffic raises and people on the road, students on foot or by bicycle follow the same direction .There are many French schools but they are private institutions where study the European sons of rich people. If our ultra protective mothers could see those less lucky children in the traffic they will suffer from an heart attack. The main alleys are full of orange trees and at a man heigh people picked all their big fruits. There are also a lot of eucalyptuses some of them are dried and someone has carved the trunks to make sculptures. Now I am in a botanic park and write some lines. The park is beautiful and rich as our city parks. All that made me of a good temper, I hear birds singing and it seems to be at spring. I start walking again to Medina. I have lost myself, the Medina is a place you cannot descrive, you can imagine all the little markets in Italy, mix them and put them together in a place as big the city of Bergamo but the rorarely are more than two meter. I saw that Suks are of different categories: cobblers, smiths, antiquaries and
Pagina �6
mixed and massed of all kinds; my Rantastic program went out of order and I didn’t know where to go. I met a lot of Pilgrims here, unmistakable with their rucksack and the shell on the back. I am sitting in a Suk and I am drinking my second mint tea so I can enjoy the little multicolor flood of people who at their turn enjoy perfumes and colors of this place where tradition and an apparent modernity coexist; the faces I see show a sharp contrast between people of a low range and the ones of upper classes who are closely similar to the European people; looking, dresses and the same status symbols like luxury cars and trendy mobile phones , At least I am in Jemaa el –Fna square full of tourist as all respectful squares of the world. Lots of stalls and even snake charmers who try to invite you to take part to their show, and animal sellers: canaries, turtles and the multicolor chameleons. I think I must buy a Moroccan SIM Card not to spend more than the rest in telephone calls! It is profusely raining now so I find a shelter in a little restaurant where I can use WI-‐FI so I send some photos and write some lines. It is noon but I have already eaten and already walked 15 kilometers. In half an hour I will be at my hotel that I chose because it is near the bus station and I can know bus times, for example the one at 8.30 to Ouarzazate for tomorrow.
Pagina �7
Marrakesh 17 January 2015
Wake up at 6 but I was just asleep so I prepare my trolley and I carry it on my shoulders for four decks. I have breakfast and then I run to the bus station, destination Ouarzazate. I had enough of yesterday’s tour in Marrakesh because I don’t like going around in the city even it is old , famous and crowded. I expect great things from the bus tour, a first taste of the Moroccan land trough a plane place and then Atlas mountains with all their colors until Tizi-‐n Tichka pass, 2200 meters. one of the highest pass of the Country, then down to Ouarzazate. What a spectacle boys! Luckily I haven’t done it on foot; there is the danger to be hit by lorries at every bend . The risk is real because lorries pass very close to the side of the road, moreover I would have taken a hard walk week. As I foresaw after a plane part studded with little villages and a few bigger countries, I enter the valley where is the local river to lord. That is because water has excavated the banks reaching the road-‐sides and in some cases has swallowed the road; this is caused by the abundant rains of the last weeks. We mount the mountains and cross the front of the Atlas, one hundred km wide, while we continue to enter and go out of valleys and to mount inexorably. There are a lot of small little villages and huts at the side of the road, where makeshift merchants sell every kind of trinkets, particularly quartzes and minerals.
Pagina �8
We go on travelling on a raod that is similar to the one of the Stelvio pass in Italy and when we see the snow our speed decreases and buses, lorries, cars begin to form a long column; there are also a couple of German Unimogs, ubiquitous at every raids and latitude. I must say our driver was a very good one, in particular for the right speed to maintain and for the ability to have the right measure a every bend, even if there were panic moments when approaching ravines or subsiding sides of the road. The pass at least and downhill to Ouarzazate for more than one hour and 85 kms. Suddenly we are on a dry highland where colors change at every moment from ocher to a vivid yellow, to a pale red. It is a volcanic place where you can see black basaltic blocks and you note that this yellow comes from the pumice stone and solid volcanic ash . It is always time and torrential rains that crumble and devastate these rocks, carrying them down to the valleys by their waters. I saw Ouarzazate in the distance and it is not so small as I imagined; 50.000 inhabitants and a lot of things to see, even a lake ad its dam.
Pagina �9
A tajin based snack, goat stew(very little) and a lot of vegetables: all very spiced and at a tavern on the street. Blessed Trivago and not a tent and a lot of sacrifices; IBIS hotel, one matrimonial room with an ultra-‐ modern bath and giant shower . price 28 euros breakfast included.
Pagina �10
I am just one of five guests in a luxury hotel of one hundred rooms, a superb swimming pool but water is at 12 degrees ( I taste the surface with a finger) so I decide to go out and take some photos of the giant Kasba. I come back to the hotel for a shower, report and a little rest.
18 January 2015 Ouarzazate
It’s 7,30. After an abundant breakfast I leave from my hotel dressed in short trousers, shirt and a pile gilet; the temperature is 4 degrees centigrade! Only 200 meters and I put on a covering pile, but I decide to keep the trousers so I walk towards the center of Ouarzazate. No one around and beside the temperature, this day is not the best day I could have. Out of the city I prefer walking on the sand for four kilometers to AitBenhaddou , wheather is not merciful and I have other 23 kms to go. I go back on the road and I scrounge a
Pagina �11
lift from a guy who is just going to AitBenhaddou; 10 Dhirams is the tip I give him before a greeting. I start my visit to the wall village and instead of entering from the road , as all good children do, I cross the valley where a calm river flows, so when a see a ford made of gravel sacks set at a distance of a step from one to the other I pass to the other side and I enter the village from the rear entrance .When I arrive at the fortress there are some tourists who saw me crossing the river and they greet me warmly because they see the pilgrim shell on the back of my rucksack; they want to exchange some words and smile to me with pleasure . I know they are French so we greet each other with the typical pilgrim’s Ultreya. I continue my visit through narrow alleys, little stairs and tunnels so I discover very little shops where very little old women try to sell local handicraft goods. All the buildings of the village are built of straw mixed with mud, even the walls that border the single estates . The Kasbah ( we would call it “ patriarchal” house) is on the side of the river and it is formed by an inside closed yard but open air, overhung by a crenellated walkway, with micro-‐cameras, that people use as a sleeping place and a kitchen that all people can use. Usually this kitchen is in the center of the building so that smoke can disperse into the air. I take some photo as a good tourist does and I go to the river with the idea to cross it in the opposite way and when I see I can walk on the riverbed I go on for a couple of kilometers , then I follow the road to come back to the city. I meet again the French friends I met just an hour before and they give me a lift that reminded me to the lift I had before my visit to the city. I ask them to leave me at the Atlas cinema studios where I enter not before paying 50 Dhm – 5 Euros and other 10 Dhm to a local boy who knows foreign languages and wants to guide me. I see the F.104 jet used by Michael Douglas in “ Il Gioiello del Nilo”, then I enter an
Pagina �12
imposing portal and I am in front of the set of “ Il Piccolo Imperatore “, then “ Il Trono di Spade”, “ L’Ultimodei Re” with Moses and all the rest. But I got out of my head when I saw the set of “ Asterix and Cleopatra”; Page 13 some constructions have been used for years for films set in the old Egypt, thanks to the long lasting cares against weather and time. Someone told me that two Italian boys are the creators of fiberglass and polystyrene structures (the
same as Gardaland)
When I go out I walk toward the Kasba of TiffoulToute where the oldest part, year 1000, is in very bad conditions and the part you can visit is inhabited because it was restored in 1920 and it is very nice. The halls at the ground floor are furnished with antique furniture and carpets. There is a picture of half length chieftains and important local inhabitants that camps at the entrance. I have ten kilometers to go to get to my hotel so I start my way and at four in the afternoon I enter my bed room. A surprise is waiting for me for tomorrow.
Pagina �13
19 January 2015 First day in the desert
Surprise is I have known Aziz who works as a guide in the desert and he proposes to cross from Mahamid to FoumSguid , 200 kilometers by an off-road car.I refuse because I am a pilgrim but I must say I wouldn’t be sorry to travel this way. Now the proposal is to go on foot but with his (false) brother as a guide. I slept in my tent for eight night in the desert, walking 25 kms a day among sand dunes passing on the Iriki Lake that is a lake without water because there is a dam Dra in Ouarzazate. This morning Aziz will take me at the hotel by car and we drive to the Dra valley to visit the most characteristic places. What a day! I am in the desert by a twig fire with yellow toothed Aziz who prepare our supper , but I want to start from the beginning; as agreed Aziz picked me up at nine, destination Mahamid in the southern Morocco near the Algerian border.
Pagina �14
We board a Toyota cat to leave the wonderful Ouarzazazate and we advance inside the valley of the Dra the famous valley of the Kasbas . We start mounting after around 30 kilometers toward the pass. Mountains around me are amazing, sides and ridges seem to be modeled by the hand of the Creator himself. Dreadful canyons unite in bizarre angles to become a unique river and suddenly they divide into one, two falls. Mountain walls are colored in lilac, Aziz tells me that after abundant rains flowering explodes into thousands of these little flowers. We stop to have breakfast in a palm grove at the sides of the valley. Beyond the river there is a mud village where I Go for a two hour visit. Little streets bordered by crumbling stones ; a ghost village without inhabitants who live some meters higher in houses built of blocks of cement or of straw and soil. A puncture! We change the wheel and again on our way to Zagora. Here we can eat for another hour travel to our starting point at a plane and dry place; as a background there are sand dunes that sun makes of an indefinable color in the twilight. Here is Hamed, my guide who doesn’t speak my language but only Berber and Arab, so our conversation is between
Pagina �15
mute persons. Hamed tries to make me understand that it is impossible to drag the trolley, so we board it on the camel. We start our march with a strong wind from the North. It is late so we make a hard effort to keep a speed step in the sand. I think Hamed is testing my endurance. After 15 kms we arrive at the bivouac, an old acacia where to lay the sleeping bag. My legs hurt because of the forced march on the sand, so I prepare what is necessary to sleep while Hamed , without saying a word, gathers some twigs around the tree and lights a fireand starts cooking some vegetables with meal, chili pepper saffron and something else I don’t know. Tajne , he says, and I will realize in the following days that it will be always present, cooked at the moment , with the Arab bread and the omnipresent mint tea that is the desert whiskey. Just finished to eat and at once to bed but I couldn’t sleep because of the cold and I think that tomorrow I will pitch my tent to have at least a shelter to repair from the wind. Hamed is sleeping in a red sleeping bag laying on a military blanket and other two blankets over the sleeping bag.
Pagina �16
20 January 2015 Second day in the desert
It is the sun that wakes me up (I was already awaken); breakfast with bread , marmalade, banana and orange and, of course, mint tea. We start before 8 after carrying all stuffs on the camel. We go fast till 11.30 then down all the stuffs from the camel and Hamed prepare the Tajne; I feel that I will eat it all days and it’s not very interesting to me. We start again at 11.30 in a stony desert and my feet hurt, so I remove my boots and I wear sandals and again I go on in this “nothing” for a valued 30 kms walk. I don’t use the GPS RANTASTIC program because our spare batteries must last until we arrive at FoumZgoud.
Pagina �17
I will see that from the Ipad map as soon as I will download my photos. We had to start from Mhamid but we anticipate of a 20 kms before from a lost place in the desert . When we arrive at the bivouac I pitch the tent and we eat and at 19 I am already in my sleeping bag; it is cold and dark and my friend Hamed can speak only Arab. My only company is the wonderful Ferrino Lightent 1, so good night!
21 January 2015 Third day in the desert
It is the photocopy of the second day, the only thing that changes is the landscape that now is sandy. Walking is more tiring now but I don’t know how many kilometers we have travelled; we passed before a shepherd camp where there were water and electricity but we couldn’t see anyone so we went on even I hoped to have a shower. At a certain time I order Hamed to stop and mount the camp, he couldn’t realize how tired I was. We are among dunes , a strong wind blows from the West and I toil to pitch my tent, even if the pickets work very well against the wind all night long.
Pagina �18
Hamed proposes to stop there for a trip among the dunes and the place will really deserve an additional stop but collapse into the sand so I prefer going on. This situation remind me to the snowshoeing of last December ; it was a traumatic experience because my snowshoes didn’ t fit my weigh. It is 18, time to eat and it is becoming to get dark so at 19 I am already under my tent where I read some pages the I try to sleep. How many things you can think during those hours of apparent sleeping! Since when I sleep in the sleeping bag I have the impression not to sleep but I rest at least! It is useless to say that I miss a warm bed and a cushion.
Good night
Pagina �19
22 January 2015 Fourth day in the desert
Even this time I counted hours not from a bell sound but looking at my phone and I guessed the time hour by hour so it is impossible to sleep. After breakfast we start and I feel I am very fit but after an hour only of up and down in the dunes I ask for a rest.
We cross a desert area with kilometers of dunes that extend towards North and we continue up and down for two hours. Our problem is we must go West so when the dunes decrease we turn ninety degrees on the left and now we are on the right way. While I write some lines sitting on a stone I see the dunes in the distance and Hamed show me the way we came from pointing at it with a finger; how far it is! This is the most tiring day of my life and at the same time the most beautiful. When I remind those days I think of a wonderful souvenir.
Pagina �20
We have crossed a place where abundant rains create some valleys that unite in one plane river bed that can contain the incredible quantity of water during thunderstorms. I can see deep canals in the sand. The advantage is the green that grows there and you can imagine our camel that stops at any time to browse green grass and little flowers. When we arrive at the bivouac we see a building, not much more than a surrounding wall with towels used for roof. In a little time two children arrive and one helps me to mount the tent with a reward of 10 Dhm. I took him a picture while he climbed an acacia; he looked like Mowgli in the jungle with a special light in his eyes. Later another child arrives and he too asked me to give him something. In the end the three urchins cost me 10 Dhm. a blue cap of the no longer existing Grandi Impianti company and two packets of sweets I kept for similar occasions. They stayed even after the sunset and ate all we offered, included a double ration of Tajne but I was happy because I had food for one month and I don’t exaggerate.
Pagina �21
Round a twig fire Hamed and the three children intone a desert song, a singsong dirge that they think very amusing so they want me to take part in that song; the final result is that all burst out. Then I show them the photos I took using the mobile and then downloading to the IPad. They have discharged the battery because they wanted to see films and photo in which they were. I show them my family and of course my little nephews Lidia and Viola and the photos of North Cape, Turkey and the Way of Saint James, Rome with my wife Mary. They stared at me and asked me even questions I couldn’t answer but only with a stupid smile. The last sweets are for the after dinner and also two little bars end the same way. Hamed makes me understand he would like to go to the two children’s and I mime that I am going to read something and then to sleep. I see him while stealthily takes some supplies. Probably because he doesn’t want to go empty handed into someone else’s te I slip backwards into my “garconniere”; it is not so easy with telephonr, IPad, battery charger… I am greedily reading a book, Estinzione, and I think it is a pleasure to me! Good night.
Pagina �22
23 January 2015 Fifth day in the desert
The three children’s goats wake me up, it is the first night I sleep quite well. Mint tea and bread with marmalade; tea is a rite! Every man in the desert dedicates a particular care and is nothing compared with our super delicate and clear teas; it is cloudy with pieces of herbs inside. All this is boiled on a twig fire; we take a little ember and we put it in a small hole previously excavated with an enameled tea pot over the fire filled with three quarters of water and we add chopped tea leaves in a good quantity.
At the end we add a desert herb, like rosemary but soft and some pieces of sugar ( Hamed has taken a cone of sugar weighed two kilos and breaks it with a stone. He pours the concoction four, five times into a glass and from the glass to the tea pot, then you can put in the tea leaves , prosit! I talked at lenght about tea because today we haven’t eaten but we walked for six hours and now we mount the camp for the night and the sun is still high in the sky.
Pagina �23
Iriki Lake crossing satisfied me as ever before; 30 kilometers walking on a very plane desert. The lake is only a far remembering since 30 years; someone dried it when they built a dam on the river Dra near the city of Ouarzazate. Today only the offside vehicle roadways furrow this desert and when the passengers see a pilgrim who crosses the lake they greet him warmly. Here we meet a young camel driver and spoke some words using my macaronic French but he understood me and this is important. Not too long ahead we can see a mirage, better, a cathedral in the desert; on the background I see a massive building dancing under the Fata Morgana effect and as I approach it I can clearly distinguish its embattled walls. I remember the French films about Foreign Legion so I hope nobody will come to recruit me by force. It is only a white wall, one square meter, with black writings faded by the sun and wind:
ALBERGUE IRIKI SAHARA.
Pagina �24
I enter the very Spartan structure , it is desert and its two doors are closed so we stop to eat some tangerines and to drink water in the straw gazebo outside. We go on following the endless track and Hamed shows me on the horizon at the North West the ubiquitous umbrella acacias; we have arrived, it is two o’ clock. We mount our camp and I prepare my trolley for the last two stages .
Hamed prepare our food and he cooks the bread he has just kneaded and put it in the ember. All seems so easy and even it is not all clean, all is fine. I prefer harmony than cleaning so I feel fresh even if I don’t wash for five days; more or less! We are drinking tea while the sun sets rapidly. This evening we will eat tomatoes with a little salt, mackerels and a kind of barley and… good night.
Pagina �25
24 january 2015 Sixth day in the Desert
I couldn’t sleep without wind, so I opened the zipper and put my head outside the tent, only the head and the body inside the sleeping bag. I counted seven falling stars in an hour and the landscape over me; I have never seen so many stars maybe because I could see only a lowercase glove of moon and without realizing what was happening I felt asleep.
I remembered that it was very cold at night so I stayed in the tent till seven in the morning, wake up hour. After lots of days drinking tea I had a big cup of Nescafè and it seemed to be much better than ours, it taste like the American coffee and we drank it with the bread Hamed cooked in the ember the evening before. Morning breakfast is my favourite meal.
Pagina �26
I have prepared my Truck under Hamed’s skeptical eye; he says that nothing is better than a camel when someone has to carry anything in the desert. Even though we were in a stony place I was convinced of succeeding and I started as my friend was tying the camel.
Only fifty meters ahead I lost my rucksack so I also lost the occasion to test it on a hardly walkable soil. I must say that the trolley test was positive because it resisted during those days on stony and exhausting tracks . I am convinced it will never break! Out of this moony part we walked two hours and a half more on a hard sand then a stony track began.
Pagina �27
What remains of a Donkey
I have been holding for more than one hour until midday bivouac . It is 13.30 and we start again, an uninterrupted march till the night bivouac where we arrive at 5 p.m. a mule work with a truck too! My feet hurt a little bit less if I travel with my trolley and the reason is that I change my posture and consequently my footing even if I walk uphill. We arrive at a plateau extended as far as eye could see and at last I could ask Hamed to take me some photos so I had to throw half of them away:
Now I take care of my feet the we eat and then GOODNIGHT.
Pagina �28
25 gennaio 2015 Foum Zguid
I slept again in my sleeping bag even though I had a bed to sleep. Foum Zgad is at the end of a gorge where a stream of cold air comes from the mountains at night and windows of my bedroom are from fear with many broken panes. At 23.30 I slipped into my sleeping bag because I needed to warm my body. Abundant breakfast in the morning with black coffee, bread and marmalade; 180 Dnh to sleep and eat in the morning and in the evening. I start walking in a cold morning, warmly dressed and towing my trolley; people look at me smiling maybe because they are trying not to be as donkeys and there is someone who choose to behave like a donkey. This is good for me also because it will be worse to carry 30 kilos on my shoulders. I tour around the two halves of the village, the new one built on the right side of the mountain with Arabic buildings, all is very tidied up and from the center of the village start the roads to Ouarzazate, at west side, and to Tata at East. In the centre all is vivid, artisan shops , sanitaries, hardwares and bazaars that sell food, mechanic workshops and smiths. This all in the African way that is very messy for us and not too clean..
Pagina �29
The old part of the city, the most picturesque, is at the opposite side of the valley at the left side, partially demolished the uniform black color of the local stone. This way the road ends when the city ends and it becomes a track that enters an immense palm grove. The two teams towns are divided by the Zguid river that flows in a giant riverbed. We can see palms and debris that the impetuous stream carry during rain season. I am sitting outside a bar that is on the main square and an hour ago I asked a local taxi driver how much is the price to ride from Foum Zguid to Tazenakht, about 85 kilometers . The bold young asked for 30 Dhm the equivalent of 3 euros but I paid what I thought it was the right price and then I dared ask what time we would leave; “Inchallha!” he answered ( I hope my writing is correct but I doubt), that means “if God wants we will see”. Three hours passed, the car has changed, an old Peugeot 505 SW, and now I am on a car with other 6 passengers and the driver and they all stank like or more than me! From my point of view I saw in the order: a couple of young hippies, two Suisse boys ready to spend four days in the desert, a couple of German people aged about 60, on a Camion Camper equipped with all the accessories of a house and in the end, two very important Moroccan persons who accompanied a French man dressed in the colonial style, in a white panama.
Pagina �30
I thought to be Mr. Poirot who observes the world around him to guess who the murderer is. Of course I had lunch meanwhile alternating succulent morsels to a look at what happened around me and an eye to the Michelin map. The road R 111 is similar to our Valle Brembana but not so deep and large enough. The local river dramatically enlarges its bed and erodes the sides and portions of carriageway as long as 300mt
After some kilometers we slow down to a crawl to overcome debris or to step over yards evictions. If we don’t count these little inconvenients the valley is like the Michelin maps reports; well cared oasis inside some sunny bights of the river and when you enter a village the first thing you can see is a Kasba more or less in ruins. The street mounts till Tizi-‐n Taguergoust, more than 1600 meters, as our Foppolo.
Pagina �31
In a thirty kilometers descent we arrive at Tazenekht city. The hotel is big enough and the rooms are very cold but with warm water. Guess what I had for dinner? Tajne! This night too I will sleep in my comfortable sleeping bed, by now I am accustomed to it and I feel to be like a butterfly in its cocoon.
I spend a little time more than usual writing some notes: taxi, waitings and the hotel, I walked only for ten kilometers. My left foot isn’t very good, tomorrow another bus to Taroudant and then Agadir I suppose. In a couple of hour I will eat my pappa, then just two steps to digest and …
GOODNIGHT.
Pagina �32
27 january 2015 Agadir
As I said my first day here when you travel alone you can take any decision about the travel and no one but you can say a word against the decision you take. After the night I spent in the hotel in Tazenaki I think of the cold food I ate , of my sleeping in the cold and of my waking up with a temperature of -‐0-‐ degree; I was happy to board the bus to Agadir, distance about 200 kilometers.
I thought it will take three hours but it needed 6 hours ; I boarded a very crowded troop train and I was wrapped up for the cold; after two hours later the sun entered the window at my left (no curtains of course) and I was giving in outburst. All windows were closed, no breath of air, the implacable sun on the face and more my travel friend smelt like a fish in a port market. Now I am sitting at a bar in Agadir and that all make me laugh but I was really freaking. Because I am very satisfied with my travel through Southern Morocco I have a little tour around the city of Agadir and I think that tomorrow I will be at the airport to come back to my village of Luzzana.
Pagina �33
Pagina �34
Pagina �35Mowgli
I have flown between two continents looking at the Sea and Earth from the Sky.
I have walked on Sands and Stones.
I HAVE NEVER SEEN SO MANY STARS.
See you next time and Buen Camino a Todos …….
Pagina �36
Stamattina 0 gradi brrr