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Israel & the Palestinian
Territories
Daniel Robinson, Orlando Crowcroft, Anita Isalska, Dan Savery Raz, Jenny Walker
p195
p231& Golan
p156Sea of Galilee
Lower Galilee &
West Bank
Jerusalem p112
p46The Dead Sea
p297
Jaffa (Yafo)Tel Aviv-
p261
Upper Galilee
The GazaStripp292
North CoastHaifa & the
(Jordan)Petra
The Negev p315
p341
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Israel & the Palestinian Territories . . . 4Israel & the Palestinian Territories Map . . . . . . . . . .6Israel & the Palestinian Territories’ Top 20 . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 20If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . .21Month by Month . . . . . . . 23Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Shabbat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Crossing Borders . . . . . . 36Travel with Children . . . . 40Regions at a Glance . . . . 42
JERUSALEM . . . . . . . 46Around Jerusalem . . . . 109Abu Ghosh . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Latrun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Neot Kedumim . . . . . . . . . 110Soreq Cave . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park . . . . . . . . . . .111
TEL AVIV- JAFFA (YAFO) . . . . . .112Around Tel Aviv . . . . . . . .151Gush Dan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Herzliya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Holon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Netanya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Ramla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
HAIFA & THE NORTH COAST . . . . 156Haifa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Daliyat Al Karmel . . . . . . . 176Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Ein Hod & Ayn Hawd . . . . 177Atlit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Zichron Ya’akov . . . . . . . . . 180Mey Kedem . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Caesarea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Akko (Acre) . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
EFES
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WOMAN PREPARING FLATBREAD
PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
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ST CATHERINE’S CHURCH P269
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HUMMUS P380
Contents
Kibbutz Lohamei HaGeta’ot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Nahariya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
LOWER GALILEE & SEA OF GALILEE . . . 195Nazareth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Kafr Kana . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Tzipori . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205Mt Tabor Area . . . . . . . . . .205Jezreel & Beit She’an Valleys . . . . . . . . . .209Tiberias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Sea of Galilee . . . . . . . . 219Northwestern Shore . . . . 219Eastern Shore . . . . . . . . . . 228Southwestern Shore . . . .230
UPPER GALILEE & GOLAN . . . . . . . . . . . 231Upper Galilee . . . . . . . . 233Tsfat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Mt Meron Area . . . . . . . . . 242Rosh Pina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Hula Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Galilee Panhandle . . . . . . 247Golan Heights . . . . . . . . 252Katzrin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Southern Golan . . . . . . . . 254Central Golan . . . . . . . . . . 255Northern Golan . . . . . . . . . 258
WEST BANK . . . . . . . 261Bethlehem . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Ramallah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Taybeh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278Jericho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279Hebron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Nablus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286Jenin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290
THE GAZA STRIP . . .292
THE DEAD SEA . . . . 297Ein Gedi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .300Northwestern Coast . . . .306Masada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Ein Bokek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311Sodom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312Neot HaKikar . . . . . . . . . . 313
THE NEGEV . . . . . . . 315Be’er Sheva . . . . . . . . . . . .317Negev Highlands . . . . . . . .319Mitzpe Ramon . . . . . . . . . 323The Arava . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Eilat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
PETRA . . . . . . . . . . . 341The Ancient City . . . . . . . . 343Wadi Musa . . . . . . . . . . . .346Siq Al Barid (Little Petra) . . . . . . . . . . . 353
Israel & the Palestinian Territories Today . . . . . . 356
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358
People of Israel & the Palestinian Territories . . . . . . . . . . . 374
Regional Food . . . . . . . . 380
Daily Life . . . . . . . . . . . . 385
Government & Politics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388
Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392
Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396
Environment . . . . . . . . . 402
Safe Travel . . . . . . . . . . . 408
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 411
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 421
Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426
Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 429
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 437
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 446
SURVIVAL GUIDE
UNDERSTAND
SPECIAL FEATURESAl Haram Ash Sharif/ Temple Mount 3D illustration . . . . . . . 56
Religious Sites . . . . . 223
Petra Walking Tour 3D illustration . . . . . . 350
Itineraries
EGYPT
JORDAN
SYRIA
LEBANON
SAUDIARABIA
Mt Carmel
MEDITERRANEANSEA
DeadSea
Sea ofGalilee
Haifa
JERUSALEM
Masada
Nazareth
Dead Sea
JaffaTel Aviv
Caesarea
Akko
Rosh HaNikra
Tiberias
Beit She’an
EGYPT
JORDAN
SYRIA
LEBANON
SAUDIARABIA
Mt Carmel
MEDITERRANEANSEA
DeadSea
Sea ofGalilee
Haifa
JERUSALEM
Masada
Nazareth
Dead Sea
Tel Aviv
Caesarea
Akko
Rosh HaNikra
Tiberias
Beit She’an
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Best of Israel
A whirlwind introduction to Israel’s most important historical, religious and natural sights.
Spend your first four days in and around Jerusalem, including a couple of days wan-dering the alleys of the Old City, exploring the Western Wall and the adjacent Temple Mount/Al Haram Ash Sharif, and following the Via Dolorosa to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Break out your swimsuit and hiking shoes for a full-day excursion down to the Dead Sea and up the storied stronghold of Masada. Next, head to the Mediter-ranean coast for three days around Tel Aviv, dividing your time between strolling, cycling, lounging on the beach, fine dining and watching the world go by. Next, head up the coast for a peek at Roman-era Caesarea before pushing on to Haifa. Check out the views from atop Mt Carmel and the Baha’i Gardens before a day trip to the walled city of Akko and the grottoes of Rosh HaNikra. After a day in Nazareth, concluded with a tongue-tingling ‘fusion’ dinner, head to Tiberias for a day exploring the storied shores of the Sea of Galilee. On the drive back to Jerusalem, stop at the Roman ruins in Beit She’an.
2 WEEKS
28 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Explore the best Israel has to offer from the Lebanese border to the Red Sea.After four or five days in and around Jerusalem, including a couple of days exploring
the Old City and a half-day visit to the Israel Museum, take a trip down to the wondrous caves at Beit Guvrin–Maresha National Park, stopping at a winery on the way. Next, stir it up in Tel Aviv for a few days, strolling along the beachfront promenade to historic Jaffa, biking along the Yarkon River and working on your Mediterranean tan. On your way north to Haifa, stop at the Roman ruins of Caesarea and the quaint old town of Zichron Ya’akov, famed for its vintage winery. After touring Haifa’s sublime Baha’i Gardens, visit Mt Carmel and the Druze village of Daliyat Al Karmel. The next day, continue north to Akko, with its enchanting mixture of Crusader ruins and Ottoman relics. Next, go as far north as politics permit, to the subterranean grottoes of Rosh HaNikra, before heading inland for a couple of days in Nazareth, exploring Christian sites and dining on traditional Arab delicacies and East-West fusion dishes. Based in Tiberias for a couple of days, relax around the Sea of Galilee, combining ancient synagogues and Christian sites with quiet beaches and, perhaps, white-water rafting on the Jordan River. Loop east to the Golan Heights, visiting the hilltop ruins of Gamla, the Golan Archaeological Museum in Katzrin and towering Nimrod For-tress. Circle west via the lush vegetation of Banias Nature Reserve to the wetlands of the Hula Valley, beloved by migrating birds; the quaint, cobbled streets of Rosh Pina; and Tsfat, suffused with the spirituality of the Kabbalah (Jewish mysticism). Finally, head south through the Jordan Valley, strolling the colonnaded Roman thoroughfares of Beit She’an. After a starlit night on the shores of the Dead Sea, rise early to catch the sunrise from high atop Masada. Continue south into the Negev Desert for a day or two around Mitzpe Ramon, including a hike into Makhtesh Ramon. The last stop, for a spot of sea, sun and snorkelling, is Eilat.
4 WEEKS
#÷
SAUDIARABIA
JORDAN
EGYPT
LEBANON
SYRIA
M E D I T E R R A N E A NS E A
G U L F O FS U E Z
SuezCanal
Mt Carmel
Tel AvivJaffa
JERUSALEMMasada
Dead Sea
Mitzpe RamonMakhtesh Ramon
Eilat
CaesareaZichron Ya'akov
HaifaAkko
Rosh HaNikra
Tiberias
Katzrin
BaniasNature Reserve
Nimrod Fortress
Tsfat
NazarethBeit She’anDaliyat
AlKarmel
Gamla
Rosh Pina
Beit Guvrin-MareshaNational Park#÷
SAUDIARABIA
JORDAN
EGYPT
LEBANON
SYRIA
M E D I T E R R A N E A NS E A
G U L F O FS U E Z
SuezCanal
Mt Carmel
Tel AvivJaffa
JERUSALEMMasada
Dead Sea
Mitzpe RamonMakhtesh Ramon
Eilat
CaesareaZichron Ya'akov
HaifaAkko
Rosh HaNikra
Tiberias
Katzrin
BaniasNature Reserve
Nimrod Fortress
Tsfat
NazarethBeit She’anDaliyat
AlKarmel
Gamla
Rosh Pina
Beit Guvrin-MareshaNational Park#÷
SAUDIARABIA
JORDAN
EGYPT
LEBANON
SYRIA
M E D I T E R R A N E A NS E A
G U L F O FS U E Z
SuezCanal
Mt Carmel
Tel AvivJaffa
JERUSALEMMasada
Dead Sea
Mitzpe RamonMakhtesh Ramon
Eilat
CaesareaZichron Ya'akov
HaifaAkko
Rosh HaNikra
Tiberias
Katzrin
BaniasNature Reserve
Nimrod Fortress
Tsfat
NazarethBeit She’anDaliyat
AlKarmel
Gamla
Rosh Pina
Beit Guvrin-MareshaNational Park#÷
SAUDIARABIA
JORDAN
EGYPT
LEBANON
SYRIA
M E D I T E R R A N E A NS E A
G U L F O FS U E Z
SuezCanal
Mt Carmel
Tel AvivJaffa
JERUSALEMMasada
Dead Sea
Mitzpe RamonMakhtesh Ramon
Eilat
CaesareaZichron Ya'akov
HaifaAkko
Rosh HaNikra
Tiberias
Katzrin
BaniasNature Reserve
Nimrod Fortress
Tsfat
NazarethBeit She’anDaliyat
AlKarmel
Gamla
Rosh Pina
Beit Guvrin-MareshaNational Park#÷
SAUDIARABIA
JORDAN
EGYPT
LEBANON
SYRIA
M E D I T E R R A N E A NS E A
G U L F O FS U E Z
SuezCanal
Mt Carmel
Tel AvivJaffa
JERUSALEMMasada
Dead Sea
Mitzpe RamonMakhtesh Ramon
Eilat
CaesareaZichron Ya'akov
HaifaAkko
Rosh HaNikra
Tiberias
Katzrin
BaniasNature Reserve
Nimrod Fortress
Tsfat
NazarethBeit She’anDaliyat
AlKarmel
Gamla
Rosh Pina
Beit Guvrin–MareshaNational Park
É
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Israeli Odyssey
29PLAN
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Above: Spices, Mahane Yehuda Market (p81), JerusalemLeft: Tomb of Yasser Arafat (p275), Ramallah
30
PLAN YO
UR TRIP ItIn
er
ar
Ies
This route takes you to the major Palestin-ian cities and sights.
Start off at the Yasser Arafat Museum in Ramallah before jumping on a sherut up to Taybeh to check out the West Bank’s oldest brewery for an hour or two. Spend your first evening either bar-hopping in Ramallah or hanging out with the locals in the cafes close to Manara Sq. The next day jump on a bus to Nablus for a day of shopping in its enchanting market, scrubbing up at an ancient hammam and visiting the Samaritans atop Mt Gerizim. Up early the next day, grab a service to Jenin and check out the Freedom Theatre and then either head back to Ramallah or spend a day staying with farmers near the northern village of Burqi’in. Take a service to Jericho for a full day of sight-seeing (perhaps two, if you want to see everything). End your trip with a couple of nights Bethlehem, with its winding lanes and ancient churches, and a day trip to the troubled city of Hebron, profoundly sacred to both Jews and Muslims.
1 WEEK
Welcome to the West Bank
From simple hummus to Arab- and French-inspired gourmet meals, this tour of gastronomic hot spots takes in the Holy Land’s most delicious dishes.
Start in Jerusalem, where contenders for the ‘best hummus’ title can be found in the Old City, and the foodie scene around the Mahane Yehuda produce market is worth exploring. For the country’s best gooey- hot, cheesy-sweet kunafeh pastry, head north to the West Bank city of Nab-lus and then sample extra-virgin olive oil in Jenin. Make a beeline for Nazareth, where the buzzword is fusion. Continue your culinary pilgrimage on the shores of the Sea of Galilee with a lunch of St Peter’s fish and then head to the Golan Heights for perfectly aged steak – paired, of course, with Golan-grown red wines. Looping west, stop in Jish for Galilee-style Arab cuisine or drop by the all-vegetarian settlement of Amirim for meat-free treats. Finally, head to the Mediterranean coast, sampling seafood and hummus in Akko, creative Arab cuisine in Haifa, and modern Israeli cuisine in Tel Aviv, where glamorous restaurants run by celebrity chefs vie for attention with tradi-tional eateries serving hummus, falafel and the local fast-food favourite, sabich.
10 DAYS
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JERUSALEM
Nablus
Jenin
Tel Aviv
Akko
Haifa
Nazareth
Amirim
JishGolan
Heights
LEBANON
JORDAN
Sea ofGalilee
DeadSea
Nablus
Jenin
Jericho
Ramallah
JERUSALEM
Hebron
JORDAN
DeadSea
#•Bethlehem
#•Taybeh
Mt Gerizim#•
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Culinary Trail
31PLAN
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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
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435435
OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Aileen Gerloff, Anna Thanou, Bill Davis, Caroline Guibet Lafaye, Dominik Armellini, Eran Globus, Frederik de Smedt, Isabela Vera, Jannik Zijlstra, Jeroen van der Zeeuw, Kirsty Westra, Nikolaj Albrecht, Petra Bischofberger, Sophie Millner, Thorsten Nieberg, Vibhor Garg
AUTHOR THANKSDaniel RobinsonSpecial thanks to (from south to north): Chini Da-Silva, Gili Bat-Sara, Eran Hejams, Jody Siro-ta and Michael Chen (Eilat); Yair Sela (Samar); Alex Cicelsky, Doria Pinkas and Maya Galimidi (Lotan); Anat Sha’ul (Ne’ot Smadar); David and Ofra Faiman (Sde Boker); Gil Shkedi (Ne’ot HaKikar); David Lew (Masada); Lee, Meitar and Shani (Ein Gedi Field School); Sliman (Ein Gedi Nature Reserve); Eldad Hazan (Ein Feshkha/Einot Tzukim); Nisim Bados (Beit She’an); Nati and Ofer (Banias); Rachel Eshkol (Tzipori); Ido Itai and Amir Aviram (Gamla); Gregory and Hanoch (Yehudiya); Alon Malichi (Katzrin); Omer Feldman and Ya’akov Leiter (Tsfat); Ron Tsvi, Amihai and Tehila (Rosh Pina); HaKupa’it Vera (Tel Hatzor); Mordechai Kohelet Israel (Dalton); Tony (Jish); Inbar Rubin (Agamon HaHuleh); Anat Nissim (Galil Nature Museum);
Shadi (Tel Dan); Talal (Mt Hermon); and, most especially, my wife Rachel and my sons Yair and Sasson for their support, understanding and patience.
Orlando CrowcroftI would like to thank my friends Nigel Wilson and Mary Pelletier in Ramallah, MC in Jerusa-lem and Heidi Levine in Tel Aviv. A big shout out to all the staff at Area D Hostel, Ayman at the Cinema Guesthouse in Jenin, Canaan Khoury and family in Taybeh and all those who made me feel welcome during my stay in the Pales-tinian Territories. I’d also like to thank my editor Lauren Keith and fellow authors Anita Isalska, Daniel Robinson and Dan Savery Raz. And my wife, Helen, for everything.
Anita IsalskaCountless chance encounters and conver-sations enriched my research; thank you to everyone who knowingly or unknowingly guided my travels. I’m especially grateful for the suggestions and insights from Noga Tarnopolsky, Riman Barakat, Linda Gradstein, the Educational Bookshop & Cafe crew, and for Slavica and Einav, who pointed me to some excellent tips. Deep thanks to Anna Heijblok, whose stories of her Jerusalem will stay with me. And, as ever, heartfelt gratitude to Normal Matt for cheerleading from the wings.
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
436
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
Dan Savery RazThanks to destination editor Lauren Keith for kicking this project off and making it run so smoothly. Also thank you to Maoz Inon (travel entrepreneur and peace warrior), Yoram Hai (for vegan tips) and Bea Hemming (for recommending Bicicletta). Biggest thanks goes to my wife, Shiri, for looking after the kids while I tapped away on my laptop, and my two girls, Hila and Maya, for always making me smile.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘ Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.
Cover photograph: Dead Sea, vvvita/ Shutterstock ©.
lllustrations pp56–7 by Javier Martinez Zarracina, pp350–1 by Michael Weldon.
THIS BOOKThis 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Israel & the Palestinian Territories guide-book was researched and written by Daniel Robinson, Orlando Crowcroft, Anita Isalska, Dan Savery Raz and Jenny Walker. The previous edition was written by Daniel Robinson, Orlando Crowcroft, Virginia Maxwell and Jenny
Walker. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Lauren KeithProduct Editors Carolyn Boicos, Elizabeth Jones, Anne Mason, Saralinda TurnerSenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Katherine Marsh Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Carly Hall, Gabrielle Innes, Helen Koehne, Lou
McGregor, Rosie Nicholson, Charlotte Orr, Christopher Pitts Assisting Cartographers Gabe Lindquist, Alison Lyall Cover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Nicholas Colicchia, Gwen Cotter, Helen Elfer, Sandie Kestell, Virginia Moreno, Ilana Myers, Lauren O’Connell, Martine Power, Alison Ridgway, Kathryn Rowan, Jacqui Saunders
437
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1948 Arab–Israeli War 366-7
AAbu Ghosh 109accommodation 411-12, see
also individual locationslanguage 429, 431
Acre, see Akko activities 23-7, 32-3, see also
individual activitiesAfrican Hebrew Israelites of
Jerusalem 376Agamon HaHula 247air travel 421, 422Akhziv 193-4Akhzivland 193-4Akko (Acre) 14, 185-91,
188, 14Al Aqsa Mosque 59Al Beidha (Petra) 354Al Haram Ash Sharif 9, 53-9,
56-7, 56-7Alexander Stream National
Park 154Alma Beach 126amusement & water parks
Latrun 110Meymadion Water Park 125Tel Aviv 125Tiberias 216
Ancient City (Petra) 343-6Ani’am Artists’ Village 255animals 402, 403, see also
individual speciesApollonia National Park
151-2aquariums 332Arabic 431-2Arafat, Yasser 370-1
museum 275tomb 275, 30
Arava, the 328-32Arbel National Park 219-20Arch of Titus 360archaeological digs 32, 111archaeological sites, see
also fortresses & palaces, historic sites, ruins
Ancient Bathhouse 200Ancient City (Petra) 343-6Ancient Katzrin Park 252Beit She’an 15, 209-11,
15, 206 Bethsaida 226Caesarea 13, 182-5, 184Capernaum 15, 221,
226, 15City of David 75-6Crusader City 184Herodian Quarter
Museum 67-8Jerusalem Archaeological
Park & Davidson Centre 66-7
Kursi National Park 228Magdala 220Masada 307-8Mey Kedem Tunnel 182Old Jaffa Visitors Centre
128 Petra 343-6, 350-1Qumran National Park
306-7Tel Be’er Sheva 317-18Tel Hatzor 247Tell Balata Archaelogical
Park 287Western Wall Tunnels 66
architecture 17, 69, 126area codes 417Ari’s Mikveh 237Armageddon 180 Armenian ceramics 70art galleries, see also
museumsBeit HaGefen Cultural
Center 163Beit Ha’ir 117
Canaan Gallery 238Chelouche Gallery 120Dar Zahran Heritage
Building 275Ein Hod Gallery 178Fig Tree Courtyard 238General Safed Exhibition
238Helena Rubenstein
Pavilion 116Ilana Goor Museum 129Kabbalah Art 238Museum on the Seam 79Museum Without Walls 163Negev Artists’ House 317Safed Candles Gallery 235Sheva Chaya
Glassblowing Gallery 238
Studio Magal 178Tel Aviv Museum of
Art 116Tzfat Gallery of Mystical
Art 238arts 396-401, see also
individual artsAshkenazim 374-5Atlit 179-80ATMs 415Avdat 320Ayn Hawd 177-9
BBaha’i faith 164Baha’i Gardens (Akko) 189 Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 12,
159, 161, 12, 168Banias Nature Reserve 258Banksy 272, 399Bar’am National Park 242bargaining 415Basilica of the Annunciation
196, 22bathhouses & hammams
Akko 189Nablus 289Wadi Musa (Petra) 347
Bauhaus architecture 17, 126
beaches 21Alma Beach 126Aqueduct Beach 185Argaman Beach 189Atlit 179Bat Galim Beach 166Beit Yanai 179Bograshov Beach
125Coral Beach Nature
Reserve 332 Dado Beach 166Dekel Beach 333Dolphin Reef Eilat
332-3Dor 179Ein Bokek Beach 20, 311Frishman Beach 125Gordon Beach 10, 124,
134-5Herzliya Beach 151Hilton Beach 125Metzitzim Beach
124-5Mikhmoret Beach 154Netanya Beach 153North Beach 332Tel Aviv 10, 123-6, 10Village Beach 333Zamir Beach 166
Bedouin people 377beer 20, 382Be’er Sheva 317-19, 318Beit Alpha Synagogue
211Beit Guvrin-Maresha
National Park 111Beit Keshet Forest 208Beit She’an 15, 209-11,
15, 206Beit She’an Valley 209-13Beit She’arim 177Belvoir 211Ben-Gurion 321Bet Gabriel 230
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
438
IND
EX B-D
Bethlehem 16, 266-74, 268, 5, 16
accommodation 272-3checkpoints 264drinking & nightlife
273, 274food 273sights 267-72travel to/from 274
Bethsaida 226bicycle travel, see cyclingBio-Ramon 324-5birdwatching 32, 404
Agamon HaHula 247Gamla Nature Reserve
255Hula Nature Reserve
246-7International Birding &
Research Center in Eilat 333-4
Black Hebrews 376boat travel 422Bograshov Beach 125books 357
government & politics 390
health 428history 363literature 396-7religion 394
border crossings 36-9, 419British Mandate 50, 113,
363-6budget 19, 412, 414burial sites, see tombs &
burial sites bus travel 422-3business hours 19
CCaesarea 13, 182-5,
184, 13Caesarea National Park
183-4, 168calendars 24camel riding 335Capernaum 15, 221, 226, 15car travel 423-4
safety 410Shabbat 423
Cardo Maximus 67Carmelite Monastery of St
Elijah 177Caro Synagogue 235
cathedrals, see churches, chapels & cathedrals
cavesBell Caves 111Cave of the 40 Holy
Monks 200 Cave of Machpelah 283Dodim Cave 302Elijah’s Cave 165-6Flour Cave 313Mt Sodom 313Rosh HaNikra Grottoes
193, 168Sidonian Caves 111Soreq Cave 111
cell phones 18, 417cemeteries, see also tombs
& burial sitesAncient Jewish
Cemetery 237Commonwealth War
Cemetery 317Kinneret Cemetery 230
Centre International Marie de Nazareth 198-9
ceramics 70, 238Chagall Windows 90chapels, see churches,
chapels & cathedralscheckpoints 264cheese 381children, travel with 40-1
Jerusalem 93Tel Aviv 125
Christian sites 22, see also individual sites
Christianity 359-61, 393-4Christians 377-8churches, chapels &
cathedrals, see also monasteries
Basilica of Jesus the Adolescent 200
Basilica of the Annunciation 196, 22
Basilica of the Transfiguration 208
Benedictine Abbey (Abu Ghosh) 109
Cana Catholic Wedding Church 204
Cana Greek Orthodox Wedding Church & Monastery 204
Chapel of the Ascension 77
Christ Anglican Church 200
Christ Church 65Church & Monastery of
the Apostles 215
Church & Monastery of the Dormition 71-2
Church of All Nations 78Church of Mary
Magdalene 78Church of St John the
Baptist 90Church of St Peter of
Gallicantu 74-5Church of the Ascension
77Church of the Holy
Sepulchre 11, 60-2, 64, 224, 61, 11, 85
Church of the Holy Trinity 81
Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves & Fishes 220, 225
Church of the Nativity 224, 267-9, 224-5
Church of the Pater Noster 77
Church of the Primacy of St Peter 220-1
Church of the Visitation 90
Franciscan Monastery & Church 208
Greek Catholic Church 200
Greek Orthodox Church of St George 290
Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation 200
Immanuel Church 120-1Jacob’s Well 287Lutheran Christmas
Church 269-70Lutheran Church of the
Redeemer 65Milk Grotto Chapel 269Monastery of the Twelve
Apostles 226Mount of the Beatitudes
221Our Lady of the Ark of
the Covenant 109Russian Church of the
Ascension 77St Andrew’s Church 82-3St Anne’s Church 68-9St Catherine’s Church
269St George’s Cathedral 79St James’ Cathedral 70-1St Joseph’s Church 197-8St Mark’s Chapel 71St Peter’s Church 214St Peter’s Monastery 128Synagogue-Church 200
cinema 357, 400, 401Circassian people 208-9,
377Citadel 59-60City of David 75-6climate 18, 23-7, see also
individual regionsconsulates 413-14Coral Beach Nature
Reserve 332costs 19, 412, 414courses
cooking 347Judaism 239language 91, 131, 166
co-working spaces 133credit cards 415Crusades, the 361-2culture 385-7currency 18customs regulations 412cycling 20, 32-3, 405, 422
Beit Keshet Forest 208Kinneret Trail 218Mt Sodom 313Neot HaKikar 314Sea of Galilee 218Sirrin Heights 208Yardenit 218
DDado Lookout 251dairies 236Daliyat Al Karmel
176-7Damascus Gate 68dance 397dangers, see safetyDarwish, Mahmoud 372Davidka Monument 237Dead Sea 9, 44, 297-314,
404-5, 298, 9, 304-5accommodation 297climate 297festivals & events 302food 299-300geography 299highlights 298hiking 297history 299safety 310travel seasons 297travel to/from 300
Dead Sea Scrolls 87, 306, 307
diarrhoea 427 disabilities, travellers
with 418Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
439IN
DEX D
-H diving & snorkelling 33
Caesarea 185Coral Beach Nature
Reserve 332Eilat 332-3
Dome of the Ascension 77Dome of the Rock 9, 58,
223, 8-9, 84-5, 222Domus Galilaeae 226driving, see car traveldriving licences 423 Druze people 378
Eeconomy 387Egypt border crossings 39Eilat 332-40, 334, 336-7Ein Bokek 311-12Ein Feshkha 306Ein Gedi 300-6Ein Gedi Nature Reserve
301-2, 305Ein Harod 212Ein Hod 177-9Ein Kerem 90Ein Zivan 256electricity 413Elijah’s Cave 165-6embassies 413-14emergencies 19
language 430, 432En Avdat National Park
321-2, 22environmental issues
403-6escape rooms 145Ethiopian Jews 376etiquette 414events, see festivals &
eventsexchange rates 19
FFatah 373, 389, 391festivals & events 20,
23-7, 382-3, see also individual locations
films 357, 400, 401First Station 102food 20, 380-4, see also
individual locationscheese 381falafel 381festivals & celebrations
382-3halal 381hummus 380internet resources 384kosher 381
language 430, 432price ranges 414Shabbat 381-2shakshuka 139
fortresses & palaces, see also archaeological sites, ruins
Belvoir Crusader Fortress 211
Herodium 271-2Hisham’s Palace 280 Nimrod Fortress 258Palace of the Lady
Tunshuq 69Freedom Theatre 290Frishman Beach 125
GGalilee, Lower 43, 195-230,
197accommodation 195climate 195food 195highlights 197internet resources 215travel seasons 195
Galilee, Upper 43, 231-51, 232
accommodation 231climate 231food 231highlights 232travel seasons 231
Gamla Nature Reserve 255Gan-Garoo Australian Park
211-12gardens, see parks &
gardensGay Pride Parade 25gay travellers 104, 143, 414Gaza Strip 43, 292-6Golan Heights 43, 232,
252-60, 232Gordon Beach 10, 124,
134-5Gospel Trail 200government 388-91Greek Orthodox Church of
the Annunciation 200Griffon vultures 255Gush Dan 151
HHaas Promenade 83Hai-Bar Yotvata Nature
Reserve 329Haifa 42, 157-76, 158, 160-1
accommodation 167-70activities 166
courses 166drinking & nightlife 172-3entertainment 173-4festivals & events 167food 170-2history 158-9medical services 174shopping 174sights 159-66tourist offices 174tours 166-7travel to/from 174-5travel within 175-6
halal food 381HaMakhtesh HaGadol 326HaMakhtesh HaKatan 326Hamas 373, 389, 391Hamas–Israel War 356-7Hamat Gader 228-9Hamat Tveriya National
Park 216HaMeiri Dairy 236hammams, see bathhouses
& hammams Hanukkah 27Har Hazikaron 88-9headcoverings, Jewish 393health 426-8heat exhaustion 427-8Hebrew 130, 429-31Hebron 282-6, 285Hecht Museum 166Herodium 271-2Herzliya 151-2hiking 21, 32, 33
Coexistence Trail 243Dead Sea 301Eilat 338Ein Gedi Nature Reserve
301En Avdat National Park
321-2, 22Golan 253Gospel Trail 200Israel National Trail 208Jesus Trail 201, 208Kfar Tavor 208Masada 308-9Mitzpe Ramon 325Mt Sodom 313Mt Tabor 208Negev 325Sanhedrin Trail 216Sea of Galilee 226Siege Ramp Trail 309Snake Path 309Tel Dan Nature Reserve
249Timna Park 329
Wadi Arugot 302Wadi Bokek 311Wadi David 302Yehudiya Nature Reserve
254Hilton Beach 125Hisham’s Palace 280historic sites, see also
archaeological sitesAkko’s city walls 186-7ancient Galilee boat 220Atlit Detention Camp 179Beit Oliphant 176Cardo Maximus 67Independence Hall
117, 120Inn of the Good
Samaritan 281Knights’ Halls 187Mauristan 64-5Old Railway Station
(Jaffa) 130Pool of Al Anazia 154-5Ramparts Walk 60Russian Compound 81Turkish Railway Station
317White Tower 155
history 358-731948 Arab–Israeli War
366-7Battle of Ein Jalut 213books 363British Mandate 50, 113,
363-6Christianity, emergence
of 361Crusades, the 361-2Hamas–Israel War 356-7Hellenistic period
359-60Holocaust & WWII 89,
179, 192, 365-6Islam, emergence of
361-3Oslo Accords 370-1Ottoman Empire 363-6Palestine Liberation
Organisation (PLO) 368-70
Palestine, partitioning of 366
Roman Empire 359-61WWI 364Zionism 363-6
hitching 424holidays 416-17Holocaust 89, 179, 192,
365-6Holon 152-3
440
IND
EX H-M
horse riding 227, 256-7, 325-6
hot springsHamat Gader 228-9Tiberias 216
Hula Valley 246-7Human Condition, The 313hummus 380
Iice skating 251, 335immigration 39Incense Route 320insect bites & stings 428insurance 414-15
health 426internet access 415internet resources 19
environmental issues 405
food & drink 384health 426
Islam 361-3, 394-5Islamic Jihad 389Israel Festival 25Israel Museum 17, 86-7, 17Israel National Trail 208Israeli people 385-6Israeli settlements 286itineraries 28-31
JJacob’s Well 287Jaffa (Yafo) 42, 113, 127-31,
137, 141-2, 144, 147, 128Jaffa Gate 59Jenin 290-1Jericho 12, 223, 279-82,
12, 284Jerusalem 42, 46-109
48-9, 72-3Abu Tor 97-8accommodation 46, 92-8Armenian Quarter 70-1Baka 97-8children, travel with 93Christian Quarter 60-5climate 46courses 91Downtown 79-82, 94-6,
99-100, 103, 106, 80-1
drinking & nightlife 102-4
East Jerusalem 78-9, 94, 99, 105-6
Ein Kerem 90entertainment 104-5festivals & events 91-2food 46, 98-102German Colony 83, 97-8,
102, 104Givat Ram 83-8, 102Har Hazikaron 88-9highlights 48history 47, 50-1itineraries 51Jaffa Gate 59-60Jewish Quarter 65-8Kidron Valley 75-7King David St 82-3Mahane Yehuda 100-1,
103-4, 106Mamilla 96-7, 101-2medical services 106-7Mount of Olives 77-8, 223Mt Zion 71-5, 224Muslim Quarter 68-70Old City 53, 92-4, 98-9,
102-3, 105, 52-3Rechavia 97Rehavia 83safety 78shopping 105-6sights 51-90Talbiyeh 83, 104Talpiot 83tourist offices 107tours 91travel seasons 46travel to/from 107travel within 108-9walking tours 61, 62-3,
61, 63Yemin Moshe 96-7, 101-2
Jerusalem Syndrome 64Jesus of Nazareth 201,
360-1, 393-4Jesus Trail 201, 208Jewish dress 88, 393Jewish peoples 369, 374-6Jezreel Valley 209-13Jezreel Valley Railway 210Jish 243-5Jisr Az Zarka 182Jordan border crossings
37-9, 419Jordan River 248Judaica 398Judaism 362, 386, 392-3
KKabbalah 362Kadosh Dairy 236
Kafr Kana 204-5Katzrin 252-4kayaking 248keffiyeh 371Kfar Kama 208-9Kfar Tavor 208kibbutzim 330
Ein Harod 212Kibbutz Ketura 330Kibbutz Lohamei
HaGeta’ot 191-2Kibbutz Lotan 329Kibbutz Neot Semadar
329-30Kidron Valley 75-7Kinneret Trail 218Kirkuk-Haifa Pipeline 210Kiryat Shmona 250Knesset 87-8Knights’ Halls 187Korazim National Park 226Kornmehl Farm 322kosher food 381Kursi National Park 228
Llanguages 18, 429-32
Arabic 431-2courses 91, 131, 166 Hebrew 130, 429-31
Last Supper, Room of the 71
Latrun 110Law of Return 375legal matters 415Leishmaniasis 426-7LGBTIQ travellers 104,
143, 414Lights in Jerusalem 25Lions’ Gate 69literature 396-7, see also
booksLittle Petra 353-4Lot’s Wife 313Lower Galilee, see Galilee,
LowerLuna Park 125
MMagdala 220Mahane Yehuda Market 81,
30, 84Majdal Shams 259-60Majrase Nature Reserve
228Makhtesh Ramon 16,
324, 16makhteshim 326Mamluk architecture 69
Mamshit 320maps 415Mar Saba Monastery 271,
284-5markets
Bethlehem souq 269Carmel Market 117Jaffa Flea Market 129Levinski Spice Market
121Mahane Yehuda Market
81, 30, 84Nahalat Binyamin Crafts
Market 147Old Port Farmers’ Market
147Sarona Market 124Souq Al Abiad 189Souq Al Qattanin 70
Masada 12, 307-11, 12Masada National Park
307-8Mauristan 64-5Mea She’arim 86medical services 426, 427Megiddo 180Meir, Golda 388Merom Golan 256-7Metula 250-1Metzitzim Beach 124-5Mey Kedem 182Meymadion Water Park 125Midburn 25Middle East Respiratory
Syndrome 427Mikhmoret Beach 154military service 385-6minefields 410Mini Israel 110missiles 409Mitzpe Ramon 323-8, 324Mizrahim 375-6mobile phones 18, 417monasteries, see also
churches, chapels & cathedrals
Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah 177
Church & Monastery of the Apostles 215
Church & Monastery of the Dormition 71-2
Ethiopian Monastery 64Franciscan Monastery &
Church 208Latrun Monastery 110Mar Saba Monastery 271,
284-5Monastery of the
Cross 88Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
441IN
DEX M
-N
Monastery of the Qurantul 280
Monastery of the Twelve Apostles 226
St George’s Monastery 281
St Peter’s Monastery 128Stella Maris Carmelite
Monastery 165money 18, 19, 413, 415-16Montefiore Windmill 82Montfort Castle 192-3Moshav Amirim 242-3mosques
Al Amari Mosque 216Al Aqsa Mosque 59Al Bahr Mosque 215Al Jazzar Mosque 187Hassan Bek Mosque 129Ibrahimi Mosque 283,
284Mosque of Omar 269Nabi Musa 281Red Mosque 239White Mosque 200
motorcycle travel 423-4safety 410
Mount of Olives 77-8, 223Mount of Temptation 280Mount of the Beatitudes
221Mt Bental 257Mt Gilboa 212-13Mt Hermon 260Mt Meron 242Mt Sodom 313Mt Tabor 205, 208Mt Zion 71-5, 224Muhammad, Prophet 55,
58, 361, 394-5museums, see also art
galleriesBe’er Avraham 318Beit Hatfutsot 126-7Beit Lohamei HaGeta’ot
192Ben-Gurion Museum 116Ben-Gurion’s Desert
Home 321Bethlehem Museum 269Bialik Museum 117Bible Lands Museum 87Bloomfield Science
Museum 93Burnt House 67Caesarea Maritima
Museum 184Centre International
Marie de Nazareth 198-9
Circassian Heritage Center 209
Citadel 59-60Clandestine Immigration
& Naval Museum 165Design Museum Holon
152Eilat Museum 333Eretz Israel Museum 127EthnoCenter 325First Aliya Museum 181Galil Nature Center 249Galilee Experience 215Golan Archaeological
Museum 252Haganah Museum 120Haifa City Museum 163Haifa Museum of Art
163-4HaMeiri Museum 236Hammam Al Pasha
187, 169Hecht Museum 166Herodian Quarter
Museum 67-8Herzl Museum 89Holocaust History
Museum 89IDF History Museum
130-1Israel Children’s Museum
152-3Israel Museum 17,
86-7, 17Israeli Air Force Museum
318Israeli Museum 127Jabotinsky Institute 117Janco-Dada Museum
178Kesem Hagolan 253LA Mayer Museum for
Islamic Art 83MadaTech 164-5Mahmoud Darwish
Museum 275Maine Friendship House
120Mané-Katz Museum 162Masada Museum 308Memorial Museum of
Hungarian Speaking Jewry 239
Museum of Art, Ein Harod 212
Museum of Bedouin Culture 319
Museum of Holocaust Art 89
Museum of Italian Jewish Art 81-2
Museum of Palestinian Heritage 270
Museum of the History of Jerusalem 59
Nachum Gutman Museum of Art 121
National Maritime Museum 165
Negev Museum of Art & Museum of Islamic & Near Eastern Cultures 317
NILI Museum 181Nisco Museum 178Open Museum of
Photography 250Palestinian Heritage
Museum 79Palmach Museum 127Ramla Museum 155Rockefeller Museum 79Rubin Museum 117Russian Museum 280Samaritan Museum 288Tikotin Museum of
Japanese Art 162Treasures in the Wall
Museum 187Underground Prisoners
Museum 187, 189Upper Galilee Museum
of Prehistory 248Weizmann Institute of
Science 153Yad Layeled Children’s
Memorial Museum 192Yad Vashem 88-9Yasser Arafat Museum
275Yigal Alon Centre 220Yitzhak Rabin Centre 127
music 397-8Muslim peoples 376-7
NNablus 17, 286-90, 288, 17Nahal Iyyun Nature
Reserve 251Nahariya 192Nahla’ot 83Naot Farm 322national parks, see also
nature reservesAkhziv National Park 193Alexander Stream
National Park 154Apollonia National Park
151-2Arbel National Park
219-20Bar’am National Park 242
Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park 111
Beit She’an National Park 209-10, 206
Beit She’arim National Park 177
Caesarea National Park 183-4, 168
En Avdat National Park 321-2, 22
Hamat Tveriya National Park 216
Korazim National Park 226
Kursi National Park 228Masada National Park
307-8Megiddo National Park
180Qumran National Park
306-7Tel Arad National Park
319Tzipori National Park
205, 207nature reserves, see also
national parksBanias Nature Reserve
258Ein Feshkha Nature
Reserve 306Ein Gedi Nature Reserve
301-2, 305Gamla Nature Reserve
255Hai-Bar Yotvata Nature
Reserve 329HaYarden Park Nature
Reserve 226Hula Nature Reserve
246-7Majrase Nature Reserve
228Makhtesh Ramon Nature
Reserve 16, 324, 16Nahal Iyyun Nature
Reserve 251Tel Dan Nature Reserve
248-9Yehudiya Nature Reserve
254-5Nazareth 14, 196-204,
198-9, 15, 206Nazareth Village 201Negev 44, 315-40, 316, 22
accommodation 315climate 315food 315highlights 316travel seasons 315
Negev Highlands 319-23Nelson Mandela Sq 275
442
IND
EX N-T
Neot HaKikar 313-14Neot Kedumim 110-11Netanya 153-4Netanyahu, Benjamin 372nightlife 22Nimrod 258-9Nimrod Fortress 258north coast 42, 156-94, 157
accommodation 156climate 156food 156highlights 157travel seasons 156
OOdem 257-8Old Port (Tel Aviv) 124opening hours 19Oslo Accords 370-1 Ottolenghi, Yotam 101Our Lady of the Ark of the
Covenant 109
Ppalaces, see fortresses &
palacesPalestine Liberation
Organisation (PLO) 389Palestinian Authority 390Palestinian Heritage
Museum 79Palestinian people 387parks & gardens
Baha’i Gardens (Akko) 189
Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 12, 159, 161, 12, 168
Bio-Ramon 324-5Botanical Garden of
Eilat 334Citadel Park 237Ein Gedi Botanical
Garden 302-3Gan Ha’Em 163Gan Meir Park 117Garden of Gethsemane
78Garden Tomb 79HaPisgah Gardens 128-9Independence Park 125Japanese garden 211Park HaYarkon 126Ramat HaNadiv Gardens
181Shepherds’ Field 270
Solomon’s Pools 270Timna Park 329
Passover 24passports 418
Israeli stamps 38Petra 44, 341-54, 342,
344-5, 350-1accommodation 341climate 341food 341highlights 342itineraries 353travel seasons 341
Petra by Night 347planning, see also
individual regionsbasics 18-19border crossings 36-9,
419budgeting 19, 412, 414calendar of events 23-7children, travel with 40-1internet resources 19itineraries 28-31regions 42-4repeat visitors 20Shabbat 34-5travel seasons 18, 23-7
plants 402politics 356-7, 367-73,
388-91Pool of Al Anazia 154-5Pool of Bethesda 68population 356, 385-7postal services 416protests 409-10public holidays 416-17Purim 23
QQalandia 264Qasr Al Yahud 280, 223Qumran National Park
306-7Quneitra Viewpoint 256
Rrabies 427Rabin Square 115-16Rabin, Yitzhak 127, 370-1Rachel’s Tomb 270rafting 248Ramadan 383Ramallah 10, 274-8,
276, 10Ramat Dalton 245Ramla 154-5, 155Red Sea Jazz Festival 26
refugee camps 270, 372religion 392-5, see also
individual religionsreligious services 90Ribat Bayram Jawish 69Rivlin, Reuven 389rocket attacks 409Room of the Last Supper
71Rosh HaNikra Grottoes
193, 168Rosh HaShanah 26Rosh Pina 245-6ruins, see also
archaeological sites, fortresses & palaces, historic sites
Al Beidha (Petra) 354 Crusader castle (Atlit)
179-80Hisham’s Palace 280Little Petra Siq 353-4Samaritan Ruins 287-8Sebastia 288-9Street of Facades 343Tel Al Sultan 279-80
SSabbath, see ShabbatSafari Ramat Gan 125Safed, see Tsfatsafety 408-10, 412-13
hitching 424road 424sinkholes 303
Samaritans 378-9Sanhedrin Trail 216Sarona 124Schindler, Oskar 73-4scuba diving, see diving Sde Boker 321-3Sea of Galilee 15, 43, 195,
218, 219-30, 197, 206-7cycling 218highlights 197walking 226water level 221
security 408-10 senior travellers 413separation wall 271Sephardim 374settlements, Israeli 286Shabbat 34-5, 90, 416
driving 423food 381-2Jerusalem 96Tel Aviv 146Tsfat 236, 241
shakshuka 139
Sharon, Ariel 371sherut travel 424Shivta 320Shrine of Abu Ibrahim 176Shrine of the Báb 161-2,
168Sidonian Caves 111Sidreh – Lakiya Negev
Weaving 319sinkholes 303Siq 343Siq Al Barid 353-4Sirrin Heights 208skiing 260snake bites 428snorkelling, see diving &
snorkelling Sodom 312-13Soreq Cave 111souqs, see marketsspas 303springs, see hot springsStations of the Cross 62-3Stella Maris Carmelite
Monastery 165street art 399Suzanne Dellal Centre 121synagogues 21
Abuhav Synagogue 235-6
Ades Synagogue 82Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue
224, 235Beit Alpha Synagogue
211Capernaum 221Caro Synagogue 235Eliahu Hanavi 67Emtza’i (Middle)
Synagogue 67Hurva Synagogue 68Istanbuli Synagogue 67Sephardic Ari Synagogue
236Umm Al Kanatir
Synagogue 255Yokhanan Ben Zahai 67
TTabgha 219, 220, 224taxes 417taxis 424-5Taybeh 278-9Tel Al Sultan 279-80Tel Arad National Park 319Tel Aviv 17, 42, 112-51, 114,
122-3, 17, 134-5accommodation 112,
132-7activities 131
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
443IN
DEX T-Z
City Centre 115-17, 133, 137-9, 143, 146
climate 112courses 131drinking & nightlife
142-4entertainment 144-6festivals & events 132Florentin 121, 123, 141food 112, 137-42highlights 114history 113, 115internet access 148internet resources 148itineraries 116Jaffa (Yafo) 113, 127-31,
137, 141-2, 144, 147, 128
medical services 148Neve Tzedek 121, 141,
146-7, 135Park HaYarkon 126-7, 137Ramat Aviv 126-7safety 148shopping 146-8sights 115-31South City Centre 117,
120-1, 136-7, 139-41, 143-4, 146, 118-19
Tel Aviv Beach & Port 123-6, 137
tourist offices 148tours 126, 131-2travel seasons 112travel to/from 148-9travel within 149-50
Tel Aviv Museum of Art 116, 134
Tel Dan Nature Reserve 248-9
Tel Dan Stele 249Tel Hai 250Tel Hatzor 247telephone services 18, 417Tell Balata Archaelogical
Park 287Templars’ Tunnel 187Temple Mount/Al Haram
Ash Sharif 9, 53-9, 56-7, 56-7
templesFirst Temple 47, 59, 65,
358-9Great Temple (Petra)
344Qasr Al Bint (Petra) 345Second Temple 47, 54-5,
65, 359-60theatre 398-400theft 410
Tiberias 213-19, 214time 417tipping 415Tisch Zoological Gardens
93tombs & burial sites, see
also cemeteriesBen-Gurion Graves 321Garden Tomb 79Grave of Oskar Schindler
73-4Jehoshaphat 76King David’s Tomb 71Monastery (Petra) 346Rachel’s Tomb 270Royal Tombs (Petra) 343Tomb of Rabbi Akiva
215-16Tomb of Rabbi Meir Ba’al
HaNess 215Tomb of Rabbi Yohanan
ben Zakkai 215Tomb of the Lady
Tunshuq 69Tomb of the Patriarchs
224, 283Tomb of the Prophets
77-8Tomb of the Rambam
215Tomb of the Rashbi 242Tomb of the Virgin
Mary 78Tomb of Turkan Khatun
69Tomb of Yasser Arafat
275, 30Tomb of Zechariah 76-7Tombs of the Kabbalists
237Treasury 343
tourist information 418tours 425Tower of David 59-60train travel 20, 425traveller’s diarrhoea 427travel to/from Israel & the
Palestinian Territories 421-2
travel within Israel & the Palestinian Territories 422-5
Tree of Zacchaeus 280trekking, see hikingTsfat 13, 233-41, 234, 13
accommodation 239-40courses 239festivals & events 239food 240-1history 233medical services 241
sights 233-9tourist offices 241tours 239travel to/from 241
Tzipori 205, 207
UUnderwater Observatory
Marine Park 332University of Haifa 166 Upper Galilee, see Galilee,
Upper
VValley of Jehoshaphat 76-7vegetarian & vegan
travellers 20, 142, 381Via Dolorosa 62-3, 223, 63,
222-3vineyards, see wineries visas 418-19visual arts 399, 400volunteering 419
WWadi Arugot 302Wadi David 302Wadi Musa 346-53, 348Wailing Wall, see Western
Wall walking, see hikingwalking tours
Church of the Holy Sepulchre 61, 61
Petra 350-1 Via Dolorosa 62-3, 63
Walled Off Hotel 272water 403-4, 428water parks, see
amusement & water parks
weather 18, 23-7, see also individual regions
websites, see internet resources
Weizmann Institute of Science 153
West Bank 43, 261-91, 262accommodation 261climate 261, 265food 261highlights 262history 263-5safety 263tours 265travel seasons 261travel to/from 265travel within 266
Western Wall 10, 65-6, 223, 10, 84, 222
Western Wall Tunnels 66wetlands 404-5wildflowers 402wildlife 402, 403windsurfing 33wineries 21, 244
Adir Winery 245Bahat Winery 256Boker Valley Vineyards
Farm 323Carmel Winery 180-1Carmey Avdat Winery
323Dalton Winery 245Golan Heights Winery
252Nachmani Winery 213Odem Mountain Winery
257Pelter Winery 256Sde Boker Winery 323Tabor Winery 208Taybeh Winery 278-9Tishbi Winery 181
womenin Israel 386in Palestinian Territories
387women travellers 420work 420WWI 364WWII 365-6, see also
Holocaust
YYa’ar HaAyalim 257Yad Vashem 88-9Yafo, see Jaffa Yamit 2000 125Yardenit 218Yardenit Baptismal Site 230Yasser Arafat Museum 275Yehudiya Nature Reserve
254-5Yitzhak Rabin Centre 127
ZZichron Ya’akov 180-2Zion Gate 68Zionism 365, 367zoos
Gan-Garoo Australian Park 211-12
Haifa 163Hamat Gader 229Tisch Zoological Gardens
93Ya’ar HaAyalim 257
444
NO
TES
445N
OTES
446
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
BeachGate
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
CampingHut/Shelter
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
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Jenny WalkerPetra Despite having travelled to more than 120 countries from Mexico to Mongolia and Latvia to Lesotho, Jenny Walker’s main interest is in the Middle East, where she has been Associate Dean (PD) of Caledonian College of Engineering in Muscat for the past eight years. A member of the British Guild of Travel Writers and the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild, Jenny has written extensively on the Middle East for Lonely Planet for more than a decade.
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Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541539th edition – Jul 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 056 7© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Dublin, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSDaniel RobinsonLower Galilee & Sea of Galilee, Upper Galilee & Golan, The Dead Sea, The Negev Brought up near San Francisco and Chicago, Daniel spent part of his childhood in Jerusalem, a bit of his youth at Kibbutz Lotan and many years in Tel Aviv, where he worked on a PhD in late Ottoman history, covered suicide bombings for the Associ-ated Press, and helped lead the local Critical Mass campaign for bike paths. A Lonely Planet author since 1989, he holds a BA in Near Eastern Studies from Princeton
and an MA in Jewish History from Tel Aviv University. His favourite activities in Israel include cycling Tel Aviv’s historic avenues, hiking the wadis of Ein Gedi, and birdwatching in the Hula and Arava Valleys.
Orlando CrowcroftWest Bank, The Gaza Strip Orlando Crowcroft is a senior editor at Newsweek, author and former foreign correspondent who first visited the Palestinian Territo-ries in 2012 to cover a football tournament and has reported from Israel, the West Bank and Gaza regularly ever since. He was based in Tel Aviv as a stringer for the Guardian in 2014 when he began writing for Lonely Planet. In 2017 he published his first book, Rock in a Hard Place: Music and Mayhem in the Middle East. His
passions include sampling local fire-water and road trips (ideally not at the same time) and he has never met a dive bar he didn’t like.
Anita IsalskaJerusalem, Haifa & the North Coast Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copy-writer whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of places in between. After several merry years as an inhouse editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host
of websites and magazines. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.
Dan Savery RazTel Aviv Dan Savery Raz is a journalist and editor from Essex, England. Since 2008, Dan has lived in Tel Aviv with his wife and has coauthored various editions of Israel & the Palestinian Territories. He has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet books including Best in Travel, Happy, Street Food, Global Beer Tour and Great Escapes, and written for BBC.com, BBC History Magazine, HaAretz, Time Out, EasyJet Traveller and The Jerusalem Report. Back in the UK, Dan was
Deputy Editor for Flybe magazine and Senior Staff Writer for A Place in the Sun in association with Channel 4. For more, see: www.danscribe.com.
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MORE WRITERS
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