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“Invent a New India Using Knowledge”

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“Invent a New India Using Knowledge”

है”ह”ह

IS 1937 (1987): Handloom Cotton Bleeding Madras [TXD 8:Handloom and Khadi]

IS : 1937 - 1987 ( Roairmod 1998 )

Indian Standard

SPECIFICATION FOR HANDLOOM COTTON BLEEDING MADRAS

( First Revision )

First Reprint APRIL 1999

UDC 677.21.074

0 Copyright 1987

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS MANAKBHAVAN,P BAHADURSHAHZAFARMARG

NEW DELHI 110002

Gr 3 October 1987

IS : 1937 - 1987

Indian Standard SPECIFICATION FOR

HANDLOOM COTTON BLEEDING MADRAS

( First Revision )

Handloom and Khadi Sectional Committee, TDC 13

Chaimlan Reprcsrnfin~ DBVELOPMEKT Co~ar~sstort~ ran Development Commicuioner for Handloomr,

H~DLOOXS New Delhi Vice-Chairman

DIBIBOTOIS OF HANI-JLOOMS AND Directorate of Hnndloomr & Textiles, Govern- TEXTILES ment of Tamil Nadu, Madras

JOINT DIR~OTOB OF HANDLOOMS AND TEXTILES ( Altrrnatr to Director of Handloome & Textiles )

San1 A. T. BASAK Directorate General of Supplier & Dirporale

SERI B. D. DUBE (Altrraafr ) ( Inspection Wing ), New Delhi

SERI P. K. Dns Directorate of Handloom & Textiler,

S~xr SAMI~ MUKHE~JEB (Aftera&) Government of Weat Bengal, Calcutta

SH~I 0. P. DEAWAN Silk & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council, Bombay

SHBI L. Ddsr GOWDA Indian Institute of Handloom Technology, Salem SRRI Q. M. HUMAYUN National Handloom Development Corporation

Ltd, Lucknow SH~I D. JAYABAYAIAH Dovrlopment Commissioner for Handloomr,

New Delhi DB M. N. U. KURUP

SEBI R. B. NASEKA~ ( Altrraatr ) Minbtry of Defence ( DC1 )

Soar T. MAEADEVAN SHBI B. N. MEHTA

Handloom Export Promotion Council, Madras Directorate of Indurtriea, Government of

SHBI C. R. YADAV ( Altnnafr) Haryana, Chandigarh

( Curtituud on polr 2 )

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS

Tblt publication ir protected under the Iadian wht Ad ( XIV of 1957 ) and reproduction ln whole or in part by any me- except with written publleher shall be deemed to be an infringement of copyright B

ermluion of the un er the said Xct.

Hcprcrenting

Khadi and Village Industries Commission, Bombay

SIII;I R. S. KULI~ARNI (Altcrnafc) SI~RI IN. I~.\LARRIYHNAN N,wr Krr:ila state Handloom Development

Corporation Limited, Cannanore SIII~I P. VIJ~YAN ( dltrmate )

SIIRI R. G. OWAI,RI;AR All India Federation of Co-op Spinning Mills Ltd, Bonlbay

Sulzr M. G. RAJ \N ‘I’cxtilrs Curnmittre, Bombay SHIU A. S. R,\MA RAI) (Alternate)

SIIKI K. RANUANATIIAN South India Textiles Research Association, Coimbatore

Suw S. RANQ~~AJAN Handicrafts and Handlooms Exports Corporation of India, Madras

Surct ‘l’. RANIJASWAMY Southern India Mills’ Association, Coimbatore Slinr H. R. Rho Silk & Art Silk Mills’ Research Association,

Bombay RI*:OIONAL MANAOER Andhra Pradesh State Hnndloom Weavers’

Co-optrative Socic~y Ltd, Vij lyawada RI!ZPILPSEN’TATIVE Director of Handlooms, Govc,rnnlcnt 01 Orissa,

Bhubanashwar l~~PRESENTATIVI: J &K Stat? Handloom Development Corporation

Ltd, Srinagar RIWRICSXNTATIVE Dirrctor of Handlooms, Govcsrnml,nt of Assam,

Guw.thati R,sPREsENTATIVE Appxels Export Promotion Council, RTcw I?clhi

SHHI K. E;. R~IIAT~I Govcrnmrnl of Uttar Prad(:sh Sll,lI 11. 1’. SHAf<M,\ ( .‘~htl,d~)

SWlLL’:T‘\l~Y All India Handloom Fabrics Marketing

SH& A. RAJA~%.\NI ( Allcrnalc 1 )

Co-operative Society Lttl, Bombay

SHRI D. SICNGUPTA ( Alternatr II ) SENIW Exvcu~~~~vs & SPPCIAL Tamil Nadu Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative

OIPFICL.;IC Society Ltd, Madras SENIOH .~.~NA~:E~: ( DI+XIGN &

1’,~or,uc:1- Dw.,:I OPIIIESY ) ( Allmate ) SHRI R. I. Mrn~ia. Diwctor Gene1 al, BIS ( Ex-oficio A4cmbsr )

Director ( Tex ; SeCrGLllgv

S~nr P. RIIATNA~AK Deputy tiwrctor ( ‘Flax ), IiIS

Handloom anti Khadi Cotton Cloth Subcommittee, TDC 13 : 1

COWCIlCT

DIREW~~, INI)IAN INSTJTUTY OF Development Commissioner for Handlooms, HANULO~M ‘l-,J(.i,XoLOoY , New Delhi VARANA~T

( Continrtcd on pap 9 )

i;

Indian Standard SPECIFICATION FOR

HANDLOOM COTTON BLEEDING

( First Revision )

0. FOREWORD

IS : 1937 - 1987

MADRAS

0.1 This Indian Standard (First Revision) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards on 4 May 1987, after the draft finalized by the Handloom and Khadi Sectional Committee had been approved by the Textile Division Council.

0.2 This standard, which was first published in 1961, has been revised in order to specify constructional particulars as in vogue presently. The other important change carried out is the deletion of breaking load requirements since the standard recommends the use of yarn conforming to IS : 171-1985*.

0.3 For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the final value, observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with IS : 2- 1!)60t. The number of significant places retained in the rounded off value should IX the same as that of the specified value in this standard.

1. SCOPE

1.1 This standard prescribes the constructional particulars and other requirements of handloom cotton bleeding Madras.

1.2 This standard does not specify the type of finish, general appearance, lustre and feel of cloth, nor does it specify the colour or colour combination in striped or checked cloth.

*Specification of cotton and cotton regenerated cellulosic fibre blended grey yarn ( third rsuision ) .

‘;;5.’ ; -

+Rules for roundinp off numerical valuer ( reuirnd ).

3

IS : 1937 - 1987

2. MANUFACTURE

2.1 Yarn -The cotton yarn used in the manufacture of handloom cotton bleeding Madras shall conform to the requirements of IS : 171-1905*.

2.2 Cloth- The cloth shall be free from substances liable to cause subsequent tendering.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 The constructional particulars of BLEEDING MADRAS shall conform to those given in Table 1.

TABLE 1 CONSTRUCTIONAL PARTICULARS OF HANDLOOM COTTON BLEEDING MADRAS

VARIETY COUNT OF YARN ENDS/ PICKS/ MASS LENQTH WIDTH WEAVE FOR GUIDANCE ONLY dm dm

~---__h----_---) Warp Weft

Cotton Count Cotton Count (Tea) (Tex)

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) is) (7) (8) (9)

g/m’ m ,OZr] 115 or 1

Loomstate 608(98) 408( 14.8) 330 330 90 20 or as I 40 or as agreed 1 agreed ) Plain

Washed 60s(9’8) 4Os( 14.8) 340 340 85 104 or 1 lIZor 1

I tireed,

TOLERANCE - - *5 i-5 f5 See Note-2 -

PERCENT

METHODS - - IS : 1963-1981+ IS : 1964 IS : 1954- Visual OF TEST 1970t 1969t

NOTE - The length shall not be less than the declared or marked value.

*Methods for determination of threads per unit length in woven fabrics ( second rcuision ) .

tMethods for determination of weight per square metre and weight per linear metre of fabrics (firrt revision ).

IMethods for determination length and width of fabrics (&t revision).

*Specification of cotton and cotton regenerated cellulosic fibre blending grey yarn (third voisinn ).

~.._._.__.__.._...~._______ _. ..” l_“-.l

3.2 The other requirements in Table 2.

IS:1937-1987

of the cloth shall conform to those given

SL NO.

9

ii)

iii)

TABLE 2 REQUIREMENTS OF HANDLOOM COTTON BLEEDING MADRAS

GRARACTERISTICS REQUIBEMBNT METXOD OF TEST

Colour fastness to light 4 or better IS : 686-1985. or IS : 2454-1985t

Scouring loss, percent, Max:

a) Loomstate

b) Washed

Dimensional change, percent, Max:

a) Loomstate

1) Warp way 2) Weft way

b) Washed

1) Warp way

2) Weft way

8

2.5

5

2

2.5

1

IS : 1383-1977i (Mild method)

IS : 2977-1964s

*Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to day light (first reuttiffn).

+Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to artificial light (xenon lamp) (Jir~t revision ).

$Method for clcterrnination of souring loss in grey and finished cotton textile materials (Jirst r&iota ).

5Method for determination of dimensional changes of woven fabric (other than wool) on soaking in water.

3.3 The colour of the cloth shall bleed when tested by the method prescribed in Appendix A.

3.4 If, in order to illustrate or specify the type of finish, general appearance, lustre and feel, and colour or the colour combination in the striped or checked cloth, a sample has -been agreed upon and sealed, the supply shall be in conformity with the sample in such respects.

3.4.1 The custody of the sealed sample shall be a matter of prior agreement between the buyer and the seller.

5

IS : 1937 - 1987

4. INSPECTION

4.1 The cloth, when visually inspected, shall be reasonably free from following defects:

a) More than two adjacent ends running parallel, broken or missing beyond 20 cm;

b) Weft crack or more than two missing picks across the width of the material;

c) Prominently noticeable weft bar due to the difference in raw material, count, twist, lustre, etc;

d) Noticeable selvedge defects;

e) Noticeable warp or weft floats in the body;

f) Noticeable oil and other stains;

g) Noticeable hole, cut or tear up to 3 mm size;

h) Smash rl!pturing the texture of the fabric;

j) Undressed snarls noticeable throughout the piece;

k) Conspicuous gout due to foreign matter, usually lint or waste woven;

m) Conspicuous broken pattern;

n) Prominently noticeable dyeing defects; and

p) Any other flaw which mar the appearance or affect the serviceability and/or durability of cloth.

4.1.1 A reference may be made to TS : 412%1967* for details of these defects.

5. MARKING

5.1 The cloth shall be suitably marked with the following informations:

a) Name of the material and variety;

b) Manufacturer’s name, initials or trade-mark; and

c) Length and width of the cloth.

*Glossary of terms partaining to dofecta in fabric.

_ ._..^ ..__..____. -_.--. ._- _ ._-__ _-

IS : 1937 - 1987

5.1.1 The cloth may also be marked with the Standard Mark.

NOTE - The use of the Standard Mark is governed by the provisions of the Bureau of Indian Standards Act, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made there- under. The Standard Mark on products covered by an Indian Standard conveys the assurance that they have been produced to comply with the requirements of that standard under a well-defined system of inspection, testing and quality control which is devised and supervised by BIS and operated by the producer. Standard marked products are also continuously checked by BIS for conformity to that standard as a further safeguard. Details of conditions under which a licence for the use of the Standard Mark may be granted to manufacturers or producers mav be obtained from the Bureau of Indian Standards.

6. PACKING

6.1 Unless otherwise agreed upon by the buyer and the seller, the cloth shall be packed in bales or cases in conformity with the procedure laid down in IS : 1347-1972* or IS : 293-19807.

7. SAMPLING AND CRITERIA OF CONFORMITY

7.1 The scale of sampling and criteria for conformity as given in IS : 3919-1966: shall be followed in respect of physical characteristics, namely, ends and picks, mass, dimension and weave.

7.2 The scale of sampling and criteria for conformity as given in IS : 5463-19695 shall be followed in respect of chemical characteristics, namely, colour fastness, dimensional changes, scouring loss and bleeding test.

APPENDIX A

( Clatrse 3.3 )

METHOD OF TEST FOR BLEEDING

A-l. TEST SPECIMENS

A-l.1 Cut from the sample under test t\vo test specimens each measuring approximately 10 X 10 cm. Keep one of the test specimens as the control sample.

_---.-- *Specification for inland packaging of cotton cloth and ! arn (,/ir~f reaisiotr i.

+Codr for seaworthy packaging of cotton yarn and cloth ( third revision ). $Methods for sampling cotton fabrics for determination of physical characteristics. $kI~~thn& for sampling cotton fabrics for chemical tests.

I

IS I 1937 - 1987

A-2. PROCEDURE

A-2.1 Immerse one test specimen in a mild soap solution (2 g/l), the liquor to specimen ratio being 50 : 1. Maintain the temperature of the soap solution at about 4WC, Agitate the specimen every five minutes for a period of 20 minutes. Rinse the specimen in cold water and dry at room temperature.

A-2.2 Compare the colour of the treated test specimen with that of the untreated control sample. Bleeding is said to take place when the colour of the treated test specimen mute or blend on to the neighbouring colours to produce a mellowed and subdued shade effect.

NOTE -In case of washed cloth, which would have already been muted, there rbould onl be a Jora in the overall depth of the shade and muting will not be pronounce 8. m character in compariron with the control #ample.

8 ?

IS : 1937 - 1987

( Continurd from page 2 )

Members RcpresmtinE

SHRI A. T. 1318~~ Directorate General of Supplies & Dirpoaala

SHRI II. D. D~J~E ( Alternate ) ( Inspection Wing ), New Delhi

SRRI P. K. Das Directorate of Handloom & Textiles, Government

SHRI SAMIR MUKHE~JEE (Al&male) of West Bengal, Calcutta

SBRI L. D~SI Gowt,r, Development Curnmirsioner for Haadloomr, New Delhi

SHRI K. K. R~HATAQI Government of Uttar Pradesh SHRI M. P. SHARMA ( Altrmatr)

SERI B. R. K~WEHIK Textilea Committee, Bombay DR M. N. U. KIJRUP Ministry of Defence ( DGI )

SHRI N. K. NAQPAL (Akrma~r ) SERIF. V. PRABWAKRAN Kbadi & Village Industries Commission, Bombay

SEBI M. V. RAYAOHANDRA ( Altsrnatr ) SARI S. RANGARAJAN Handicrafts and Handloom: Export1 Corporation

of India Ltd, Madras SENIOR EXECUTIVE & SPECIAL Tamil Nadu Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative

OBFIOER SE;;~M~~~ANAOER ( DESION &

DEVELOPMENT)

Society Ltd, Madras

( Altrmatr ) SRRI T. 0. TFWUAR Kerala State Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative

Society I,td, Trivandrum

9

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS

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271065

*Sales Cffice is at Novelty Chambers, Grant Road, MUMBAI 400007

SSales Cffice is at ‘F’ Block, Unity Building, Narashimaraja Square, BANGALORE 560002

3096526 $

222 39 71 1 .,T,” ; ‘P

I, ‘.

Reprography Unit, BIS, New Delhi, India