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है”ह”ह

IS 15312 (2003): Method of Test for Seam Puckering onMaterials Sewan by Industrial Sewing Machines [MED 29:Sewing Machines]

IS 15312:2003

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Indian Standard

METHOD OF TEST FOR SEAM PUCKERING ONMATERIALS SEWN BY INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES

ICS 61.080

0 BIS 2003

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDSMANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG

NEW DELHI 110002

March 2003 Price Group 2

Sewing Machines Sectional Committee, ME 29

FOREWORD

This Indian Standard was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized by the SewingMachines Sectional Committee had been approved by the Mechanical Engineering Division CounciL

This standard is one of the series of standards prepared to rationalize the method of tests for industrial sewingmath ines. This standard specifies-the method of tests, measurement and calculation for seam puckering on thematerials sewn by single needle straight lock stitch industrial sewing machine and industrial over edge sewingmachines under natural conditions.

Other standards in this series are:

1s 15313:2002 ‘Method of test for vibration measurement industrial sewing machines’

IS 15314:2002 ‘Method of tests for tightness and balance of stitches on seam, sewn by industrial sewingmachines’

In preparation of this standard, assistance has been derived from the following standard issued by the JapaneseIndustrial Standard Committee:

JIS B 55:1986 ‘Testing methods for seam puckering on material sewn by industrial sewing machines’.

In reporting the results of a test or analysis made in accordance with this standard, if the final value, observed orcalcu Iated, is to be rounded off, it shall be done in accordance with IS 2: 1960 ‘Rules for rounding off numericalvalues (revised’.

1S 15312:2003

Indian Standard

METHOD OF TEST FOR SEAM PUCKERING ONMATERIALS SEWN BY INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES

1 SCOPE

This standard specifies the method of tests for seampuckering on materials sewn by single needle straightlock stitch industrial sewing machine and industrialedge sewing machine (hereafter referred to as thesewing machines).

2 DEFINITIONS

For the purpose of this standard the followingdefinitions shall apply.

2.1 Sewing Machine — The sewing machine meansthe set of table, sewing machine head, legs and drivingarrangement.

2.2 Material Puckering—The condition of sewnmaterials shrinked along the seam line by sewing. It isexpressed by sewing shrinkage rate.

2.3 Uneven Material Feeding—The condition whereslippage between the mutually overlapped sewnmaterials is generated by sewing. It is expressed bysewing slippage rate.

3 TEST METHODS

3.1 Test Method for Seam Puckering by IndustrialSingle-Needle Straight Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

3.1.1 Preparation of Test Piece

Make the size of test piece 90 mm in width, 500 mm inlength, attach the measuring length marks at an intervalof 300 mm as shown in Fig. 1 respectively on upperside and lower side test pieces, make the materialoverlapped with two sheets as one set, prepare five setsand use for seam puckering test.

3.1.2 Testing Operation

Take into consideration the sewing work conditions ofeach following item, and relating to test pieces of fivesets sewn along the sewing portion of Fig. 1.Whenhaving sewn with deviating from the measuring lengthmark, perform again.

The installation of sewing machine is to be so stabilizedthat vibrations do not give interference to sewing.

The operation of the sewing machine is to be carriedout so as to quickly reach the specific number ofrevolutions from stopping conditions.

The sewing overlap condition of sewing threads shallsatisfy the use and object in actual sewing.

For the test piece without applying excessive force fromthe outside part, it is to be sewn from its front end up torear end.

3.1.3 Measuring Method and Calculating Method

3.1.3.1 After sewing, place the test piece on a flat stand,under the natural condition as it is, measure themeasuring length section shown in Fig. 1 by using ascale of 0.5 mm accuracy.

3.1.3.2 Calculate the seam puckering rate according tothe folIowing formulae, and obtain the average valueof five sets of test pieces (to one place of decimal):

300-LUP“ = x 100

300

300- L,P, = x 100

300

E

where

pu =

p,=

LU=

L,=

E=

Lu– L,= x 100

300

material puckeringpiece (’Yo),

material puckeringpieces (’??),

rate of upper side test

rate of lower side test

length of measuring length section of upper sidetest piece after sewing in mm,

length of measuring length section of lower sidetest piece after sewing in mm, and

uneven material feeding rate (’%.).

NOTES

I The case where the material puckering rate is minus means

elongation.

2 The case where uneven material feeding rate is minus means

that the shrinkage of upper side test piece is larger than the

shrinkage of lower side test piece.

3.2 Testing Method for Seam Puckering onMaterials Sewn by Industrial Edge Sewing Machine

3.2.1 Preparation of Test Piece

Make the size of test piece 90 mm in width, 500 mm inlength, attach the measuring length marks at an intervalof 300 mm as shown in Fig. 2 respectively on upper

1

IS 15312:2003

side and lower side test pieces, make the materialoverlapped with two sheets as one set, prepare fivesets and use for seam puckering test.

3.2.2 Testing Operation

Take into consideration the sewing work conditions offollowing each item, and relating to test pieces of fivesets along the sewing portion of Fig. 2. When themeasuring length mark is broken and the measuring oflength is impossible, perform again.

The installation of sewing machine is to be so stabilizedthat vibrations do not give interference to sewing.

The operation of the sewing machine is to be carriedout so as to quickly reach the specific number ofrevolutions from stopping conditions.

The sewing overlap condition of sewing threads shallsatisfy the use and object in actual sewing.

For the test piece without applying excessive force fromthe outside part, it”isto be sewn from its front end up torear end.

3.2.3 Measuring Method and Calculating Method

3.2.3.1 After sewing, place the test piece on a flat stand,under the natural condition as it is, measure the

SEWING PORTION MEASURING LENGTH MARK

T/l

MEASURINGLENGTH MARK >0

pj

500

All dimensionsin millimetrem

FIG. 1 TEST PIECEOF INDUSTRIALSINGLE-NEEDLESTRAIGHTLOCK STITCHSEWINGMACHINE

SEWING PORTION MEASURING LENGTH MARK

MEASURINGLENGTH MARK ,0

----- ------{

r90

MEASURING\

-100 300 LENGTH SECTION

All dimensions in millimetres.

FIG. 2 TEST PIECEOF INDUSTRIALEDGE SEWINGMACHINE

2

measuring length section shown in Fig. 2 by using ascale of 0.5 mm in accuracy.

3.2.3.2 Calculate the seam puckering rate according toformulae given in 3.1.3.2, and obtain the average valueof five sets of test pieces (to one place of decimal).

4 RECORD OF TEST RESULTS

The test results of seam puckering on materials shallbe marked with (a) to (d) and, as required, with (e).

a) Material puckering rate and uneven materialfeeding rate.

b) Date of test.

c) Class and type of sewing machine used for test.

d) Materials:

i) Class of material used for test piece (asrequired, append the sample), and

ii) Class of sewing thread used.e) Test Conditions:

i) Overlapping method of test piece (surface,back and direction),

ii) Stitch style,

iii)

iv)

v)

vi)

Feed pitch and in industrial hem sewingmachine the hem stitching width,

Number of revolutions of sewing machine,

Thread tensile force of needle thread, bobbinthread or looper thread (see Note 1),

Strength of thread take-up spring (see Note2),

vii)

viii)

ix)

x)

xi)

xii)

xiii)

IS 15312:2003

Class of needle and number of needle(number of thickness of needle stem),

Dimensions of throat hole of throat plate,

Class of pressure foot,

Force of pressure foot,

Class of feed dog and roughness of dog,

Height of feed dog, and

Differential feed dog.

NOTES

1 ‘rhethreadtensileforce of needle thread of industrial single

needle straight lock stitch sewing machine means of tensile force

to take out upward the thread by applying the thread guard

bending bar from tension disc at the stopping time of sewing

machine. The thread tensile force of bobbin thread means the

tensile force to take out upward in indication the thread from

needle hole of throat plate.

Further, in order to make the bobbin thread not to contact with

rotating hook, measure under the condition where the needle

bar is nearly at upper dead point.

The thread tensile forcesof needle thread and looper thread of

industrial sewing machine means the tensile force to take out

the thread in the advancing direction of thread from tension

disc passing through the thread guide at the time of stopping of

sewing machine.

2 Strength of thread take-up spring means the tensile force

when starting of displacement of thread take-up spring by pulling

upward with hanging the needle thread on thread take-up spring

and thread guard bending bar.

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Review of”Indian Standards

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This Indian Standard has been developed from DOCNo. :ME 29/LM 18 ( 0435 )

Amendments Issued Since Publication

Amend No Date of Issue Text Affected

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