Ip mar april 2013

INDIAPERSPECTIVES

VOL 27 NO. 1 MARCH-APRIL 2013

IINNSS IIDDEE GLOBAL PERSPECTIVESIndiaBhutan Cordial RelationsPHOTO FEATURESpring DelightsFESTIVAL OF COLOURSHoli at Brajbhoomi

P O T P O U R R I

Virtual shopping at IGI AirportDelhi International Airport,with HomeShop18, hasintroduced a virtualshopping wall named ScanN Shop at the Terminal 3of the airport. The wall letsconsumers view and buyproducts by scanning theQR code or over the phone.

Railway heritage sitesNational Institute of Design, Ahmedabad,and Ministry of Railways plan tocollaborate to give a facelift to heritagerailway sites across India. NID studentswill disseminate information at railmuseums through technology and light,sound and interactive media, souvenirsand signages. The project will coverrailway lines such as Darejeeling, Kalka-Shimla and Nilgiri.

Republic Day celebrationsThe 64th Republic Dayparade, on January 26 inDelhi, presented akaleidoscope view of Indiasrich heritage and militaryprowess. The parade hadsynchronised military andpolice formations, tableaux,motorcycle display and a fly-past, and programmes byschool children.

Indo-French satelliteSARAL launchedSix foreign micro andmini spacecraft and theIndo-Frenchoceanographic studysatellite, SARAL(Satellite for Argos-3 andAltika) were launched bythe Indian SpaceResearch Organisationfrom Sriharikota inFebruary. SARALsapplications includestudy of climaticdevelopments, migrationof marine animals andprotection ofbiodiversity.

Royal Mint sovereignsBritains Royal Minthas started tomanufacture goldsovereign coins in Indiafor the first time inalmost 100 years. Thesovereigns will beproduced by Indiangold producer MMTC-PAMP using thetechnique developed bythe Royal Mint in itsSouth Wales facility.

Heritage walks at Bombay High CourtOne of Mumbais old architecturalbuildings, the Bombay High Court, hasnow thrown its doors open to visitors.Heritage Walk on weekends will befacilitated by the Tour Guides Association,only when it is not a working day. TheWalk will be in the presence of police andthe court keeper between 8 and 10.30 a.m.on Saturdays and Sundays of every monthexcept the Courts working Saturdays.

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EDITORIAL NOTE

arch is the month of changing colours when winter fades away, making way forspring; when you see the blooming of natures palette of shades from fresh greenshoots springing up all over the earth to flowers in myriad colours that sway in thebalmy breeze. The festival of colours, Holi, celebrated on March 27 this year, is an

occasion when Indians enjoy springs abundant colours with bonhomie. This is the time whengardens are blessed with blooms and butterflies creating the perfect setting for one to beat peace with nature.

MarchApril are exciting months in India. There are festivals galore;glimpses of which are captured on the pages of this double edition, makingfor a visual, cultural and festive treat.

To capture the essence of Holi, we take our readers to Brajbhoomi, theland where Lord Krishna spent his childhood. Crowds smeared in thefestive colours of Holi make their way across the regions villages, turningthis land into a veritable kaleidoscope. This issue observes the occasionsof Baisakhi, Poila Boishakh, Bihu, Gudi Padwa, Ugadi, Puthandu andVishu, and Easter, with articles that celebrate the enthusiasm, happinessand prosperity that pervades the country. The edition is also in harmonywith nature, recording the arrival of spring at some of Indias well-knowngardens. Readers will get a glimpse of India as we travel to Kochi, in Kerala,and the pristine tribal pocket of Jawhar-Kelichapada, in Maharashtra.

In addition, we trace the successful journey of the Delhi Metro Rail Corporation, which inDecember 2012, completed 10 years of its operations. We have its managing director, ManguSingh, recalling the past decade of success and sharing the future itinerary of the service.March 8 being International Womens Day, we celebrate the contribution of women to Indiasglobal success with the profile of social activist Nileema Mishra.

As the worlds largest democracy showcased its potential during the 64th Republic Daycelebrations in Delhi, the visit of the King of Bhutan, Jigme Khesar Wangchuk, as chief guest,finds a place in this edition, which captures the spirit of the enduring friendship between Indiaand Bhutan. Our Partnerships section features INDIAFRICA: A Shared Future, a unique people-to-people outreach effort focussing on young people of India and Africa, providing them withopportunities to engage meaningfully with each other through competition and collaboration.

Riva Ganguly Das

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March-April 2013 VOL 27 No. 1/2013

INDIAPERSPECTIVES

Editor: Riva Ganguly DasAssistant Editor: Ashish Arya

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India Perspectives is published every month in Arabic, Bahasa Indonesia, English,French, German, Hindi, Italian, Pashto,Persian, Portuguese, Russian, Sinhala, Spanish, Tamil and Vietnamese.Views expressed in the articles are those of the contributors and not necessarilythose of the Ministry of External Affairs.

This edition is published for the Ministry ofExternal Affairs by Riva Ganguly Das, Joint Secretary, Public Diplomacy Division,New Delhi, 0145, 'A' Wing, Jawahar LalNehru Bhawan, New Delhi-110011Tel: 91-11-49015276 Fax: 91-11-49015277

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For a copy of India Perspectives contact the nearest Indian diplomatic mission.

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COVER PHOTO: A REVELLER IN HOLI COLOURS / IMAGESBAZAARCOVER DESIGN: BIPIN KUMAR

Potpourri 2

Holi:Festival of colours at Brajbhoomi 6

Festive feast:New Year cuisine 14

Global Perspectives:IndiaBhutan cordial relations 20

Partnerships:INDIAFRICA: A Shared Future 26

Photo feature:Spring delights 30

Festival:Easter celebrations in India 44

Travel:Kochi: A slice of Kerala 48

Past time:Kabootar baazi in Old Delhi 56

Stagecraft:Inter-culture theatre 62

Milestone:Ten years of Delhi Metro 68

Legacy:Tribal tourism 72

Profile:Social activist Nileema Mishra 76

Exhibition:India Art Fair 80

Fair:Surajkund International Crafts Mela 84

Review:Mithila picks contemporary issues 88

Verbatim:Subodh Gupta 90

MARCH-APRIL 2013


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Splash ofColour

Songs, merriment and mayhem make Brajbhoomi, the land where Lord Krishna spenthis childhood, a colour mosaic during HoliTEXT: KUMAR MANGWANI

FESTIVE SPIRIT

t is the busiest day of the year, and all of us are geared up and ready for action. As decided, wewould plan like an army on siege, perfecting our proficiency. The water-filled balloons clutchedin our tiny grips and as someone strolls down our lane, we drop them with improvised aim.Dripping and stunned, the recipient issues forth his reaction, while our merry laughter echoes

within quickly shut windows. Another group of children scamper under the foliage, tightly concealedtill our enemy returns to his barrack. The raids can be likened to those of Krishnas, the disparityalthough in quarries ours unwary passersby, His effervescent female friends or gopis.

One tale goes: Krishna, as a blue-skinned boy keeps complaining to his mother about thecontrast in complexion between him and that of his fair consort Radha. Yashoda, annoyed by theconstant questions, squirms out of the situation persuading Krishna to smear Radhas face in thecolour he desires. And thus began the ritual of Holi.

In Brajbhoomi, the pastoral lands of Krishnas childhood, Holi takes on a special significance instyles yet incomparable. At Barsana, as I finally shuffle myself into the temple, the forecourt lays

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Legend goes, Krishna with his friendswould sneak into Radhas native land colouring the maidens with gulaal. The hassled girls would chase the boys with wooden staffs (lath)

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audacious in blotches of dried colours blending with the patterned floor. The lathmaar Holi is what Imissed out. Legend goes, Krishna with his cowherd friends from Nandgaon would sneak into Radhasnative Barsana colouring the maidens with coloured powder or gulaal. The hassled girls would chasethe boys with wooden staffs (lath). The tradition continues to this day, where the men from Nandgaoninvade Barsaana to tease the women with songs only to be beaten up with the stiff sticks.

The second day of my arrival in Mathura is Holika Dahan, the traditional burning of demonessHolika, who tried killing her nephew Prahalad, by taking him in a fire. However, instead of Prahaladdying, Holika died in the fire. This is the reason why Holi is celebrated as a festival marking the burningof all demoniac tendencies. I disembark from the cycle rickshaw at the unremarkable Holi-gate, theold towns new milestone now restored in over-embellished trimmings. Try as I might, the glassful ofbuttermilk and the Bengali sweets refuse to sedate the daytime heat. A walk past a sweet shop, thenthe alleys stifled in deafening music, and then a little meander to head down the steps to Vishram Ghat,so named as Krishna is believed to have rested here after slaying the evil Kansa. The Yamuna flowsby lazily as I expend a few hours on the steps. The secured dinghies gently waltz in the lapping waters.

A priest, spying me as a potential nave, invites me to perform the Yamuna aarti or prayer since


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I have come to this place of worship from miles away. The chanting begins with the usual gusto andas the tempo ascends fevered pitch, to the swaying and clapping, the suspended full moonshimmers with a hint of mischief analogous to that of Krishnas playful acts.

Next morning on Dhuleti, Mathura wears a ghostly veil. The usual flurry of traffic remains shy.Even the usual corner shops are tightly shut. I attempt flagging down a lone cycle rickshaw headingthe Holi-gate way, he pops his eyes towards a group of revellers heading this way, and quicklyswerves into a lane. The reason strikes apparent. I too slither into the first alley lest I become theirhonoured guest. My heart races on venturing into a nondescript detour towards the ghat. A pat formy cunning self, but the evasion remains short-lived. Helpless, in the next minute I am one of them.A brass tumbler appears in my hand. With cloudy eyes I peer at the turbid concoction. A celebrantgrinds green balls of cannabis, another one a handful of almonds. Buckets tanked up with milk areimpatient for the final potent tarnish, bhang. Filled tumblers are passed around, drums materialisebeating to popular tunes and the ghat stumbles into an unparallel frenzy.

The streets are turning into a colour mosaic. Women heap bucketfuls of water from the safetyof their balconies. The charged men on streets toss handfuls of colours. There is dance, there is


Holika Dahan is the burning ofdemoness Holika, who tried killingher nephew Prahalad, by taking himin a fire. However instead of Prahaladdying, Holika died in the fire


GETTING THERE The Brajbhoomi is centred around Mathura extending 75 km north-south and 50 km east-west,encompassing Vrindavan, Nandgaon, Barsana, Gokul, Govardhan and Baldev Mathura, 141 km from New Delhi and 58 km North-west of Agra, is accessible by regular bus servicesfrom Agra and Jaipur Govardhan, 25 km west of Mathura is where Krishna is said to have lifted the hill on one finger to shelterthe inhabitants from deluge Vrindavan, 11 km north of Mathura is a celebrated Vaishnavite pilgrimage. The popular temples here areBanke Bihari, Madan Mohan temple, Radha Vallabh temple and the Jaipur temple Gokul, 10 km south-east of Mathura is associated with Krishnas foster parents Nanda and Yashoda. Thisis where Krishna is believed to have revealed his divinity to Yashoda she made him open his mouth afterhe gulped a handful of earth, only to peer in and see the entire universe

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music, and faces blur from yellows to greens to red. A tractor-drawn float carting saffron saints pullsinto the street for a brisk trade of colours.

The evening is a remarkable contrast. Colours done with, people in sparkling whites exchangethe symbolical pinch of gulaal on scrubbed foreheads. Dhuleti comes to an end, but celebrationsare far from over. Someone mentions the Horganga; I recollect wild images from Xaviers illustriousbook The Holy Song. The natives of Baldev village celebrate the Horganga on the second day ofDhuleti; their women with their heads covered take positions along the outer perimetre of thespacious courtyard, while the men continuously circumambulate the temple.

The outsiders over the one-storey roofs take turns in casting colours and water hoses. In merrybarter, the natives pump long brass water guns or pichkaris in criss-cross gushes. Parked on theroof, there are dignitaries and there are foreigners. None are spared. Trip after trip, water bucketsare carried into the courtyard and poured over the women. They retaliate like the gopis, teased bythe ebullient Krishna. For one hour this mass mayhem moves in a colourful trance, the spectaclebeyond any assessment.


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New YearFeastIndia is a land of diversity with numerous festivals spread across its regions.Talking of the New Year celebrations, the occasions may differ from oneIndian state to the other, but the spirit is alike to usher in the year withjoy, peace, prosperity, brotherhood and bonhomie. Baisakhi (Punjab), andthe lesser known Chaitti and Basoa (Himachal Pradesh) and Navreh(Jammu and Kashmir) in north; Poila Boishakh (West Bengal), Bihu(Assam) and Pana Sankranti (Orissa) in east; Gudi Padwa (Maharashtra) inwest; and Ugadi (Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka), Puthandu (Tamil Nadu)and Vishu (Kerala) in south, are also the occasions when Indian kitchensgear up for the best cuisine worth waiting all year for

CUISINE


BAISAKHICome April 13 and there will be celebrations in Punjab to welcome the arrival of the harvestseason with the significant festival, Baisakhi. Derived from the month of Vaisakh (AprilMay),Baisakhi sees people taking bath at nearby rivers and tanks and visiting temples and gurudwaraswith sweets and money (which is supposed to be one tenth of the total produce or whatever theyare capable of donating) to thank for their fortune and pray for a better crop next year. Baisakhiinvolves a lot of socialising. Friends and relatives are invited for dinner or lunch. Lots of fruits andsweets are sent to the houses of daughters as gifts. Visitors are welcomed and offered buttermilkand sweets. Also, langars or free community meals are organised at gurudwaras, and everyonehelps to make it a success. The meals consist of some absolutely delectable, rich dishes such as puri (deep-fried bread) with cooked potatoes, dal (a preparation of pulses), halwa and kheer(a sweet dish made with milk) made in pure ghee.

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SANJEEV KAPOORCHEF, AUTHOR AND TELEVISION HOST

(Clockwise fromtop) Rich foodssuch as kheer,maa chhole ki dal(pulses), halwaand spicy snacksare big duringBaisakhi


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(Clockwise fromleft) Luchi,ghugni, pantabhat and shrik-hand are part ofthe regional foodfare around theNew Year

WEST

EAST

GUDI PADWAThe morning is bright and as the sun spreads its light, one ray strikes upon the brass pot thathangs upside down on a pole outside a Maharashtrian home. Gudi Padwa is the first day ofChaitra and is celebrated as New Years Day by the people of Maharashtra. In the Maharashtriantradition, Gudi Padwa is one of the four most auspicious days of the year to celebrate weddings,housewarmings and inaugurations of business ventures and for buying gold, silver or property. Atthis time the crops are harvested and the produce is packed off to the marketplace.On this festive day, courtyards in village houses are swept clean. Even in the city, people do somehectic spring-cleaning. Women and children create intricate rangoli designs on their doorsteps,the vibrant colours symbolising the burst of colour associated with spring. Traditionally, familiesare supposed to begin the festivities by eating bittersweet leaves of the neem tree. Sometimes, apaste of neem leaves is prepared and mixed with cumin seeds, jaggery and salt. All the membersof the family consume this paste, which is believed to purify the blood and strengthen the bodysimmune system against diseases. Delicacies like puran poli (sweet flatbread), soonth panak(Konkani style jaggery, ginger and pepper drink), shrikhand (a sweet dish made of strainedyogurt), puri and chana ussal (made with coconut and sprouts) are relished on this day.

POILA BOISHAKH AND BIHUWest Bengal celebrates the first day of Vaisakh, April 14 as Poila Boishakh, which is the firstday of the Bengali calendar. Also known as Nobo Borsho, it falls a day after VishuvaSankranti. An important festival for Bengalis, the day is marked by cleaning homes, taking anearly bath, wearing new clothes and preparing special dishes. The day is spent paying a visitto friends and family to greet them. Traditionally, the day starts with an authentic meal thatconsists of panta bhaat (soaked rice) with onion, green chillies and fried hilsa fish.

New Year in Assam is celebrated as Bihu, also known as Rongali Bihu or Bohag Bihuaround April 15. This day marks the arrival of spring. The Assamese New Year continues forseven days, where the first day is called Goru Bihu. Goru means cow and thus, this day is forthe animal and has cows washed and worshipped. The second day is Manuh Bihu which isfor humans. This day is celebrated in a similar way as that of Poila Boishakh. Gosai Bihu isthe third day where statues of Gods (gosai) are worshipped in each and every householdasking for another smooth and happy year ahead. Delicacies such as pithe (types of cake,dimsum or bread), narkol nadu (sweetmeats made of rice and coconut), ghugni (an eveningsnack) and luchi (deep-fried flatbread) are prepared.

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UGADI, PUTHANDU AND VISHUCelebrated in Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka, Ugadi or Yugadi marks the arrival of Chaitramonth and beginning of the New Year. The day symbolises a new life according to the Hindubelief that says, Lord Brahma, The Creator, began creating the world on this day. Also,according to the renowned Indian mathematician Bhaskara, Ugadi is the beginning of a newHindu lunar calendar with a change in the moons orbit.

Prayers are held on this day by devotees who make special offerings at temples. This day isalso considered auspicious to start new business ventures. Besides cleaning of houses andbuying clothes, people decorate their homes with toran (made of mango leaves) and floors withcolourful art or kolam.

Special foods such as ugadi pachadi (sweet and sour tamarind-raw mango chutney), badamhalwa (sweet dish of almonds), payasam (sweet dish made of rice and vermicelli), moong dalkheer (sweet made from milk and pulses), pulihora (sour and spicy tamarind rice), lemon rice, ujjigarelu (onion vadas) and pappu pulusu (red grams cooked with tamarind) are made on this day.

Tamil Nadu celebrates its New Year with Puthandu also known as Varusha Pirappu that fallson April 13 or 14, which is considered as the first month in the Tamil calendar. While in Kerala,the New Year is celebrated as Vishu. It is believed that on this day, the first thing seen by aperson when one opens eyes in the morning is an indication of what one can expect in the yearto come. So, it is made sure that one opens eyes in front of a propitious image. Lord Vishnu, thePreserver of Creation, is worshipped on this day and special food items such as aviyal (avegetable dish), ada pradhaman (rice flakes in coconut and jaggery sauce), kuzhi paniyaram(soft pancakes), beans thoran (made of vegetables and coconut) and kalan (mixed vegetablesin yogurt and coconut gravy) are prepared.

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UGADI SYMBOLISES ANEW LIFE ACCORDINGTO THE HINDU BELIEFTHAT SAYS, LORDBRAHMA, THE CREATOR,BEGAN CREATING THEWORLD ON THIS DAY

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(Clockwise fromtop left) Adapradhaman,kalan, kuzhipaniyaram andpal payasam arepart of the SouthIndian food platter


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King of Bhutan, JigmeKhesar Wangchukwith Prime Minister,Dr Manmohan Singh

With strategic and economic interests and cultural intermingling in mind,IndiaBhutan relations are poised to climb new peaks in days to come

TEXT: MANISH CHAND

GLOBAL PERSPECTIVES

n diplomacy, expressions of goodwill are routine, but many a time the same wordsand phrases do not lose their lustre. Unique, time-tested, exemplary the list ofaffirmative adjectives is indeed long while describing the IndiaBhutan partnershipand friendship, but its also true that the fraternal and intimate ties that bind the two

countries are without parallel. These special relations were once again telescoped inthe eight-day visit of Bhutans monarch and his spouse to India in January. Bhutans32-year-old Oxford-educated monarch Jigme Khesar Wangchuk was the chief guestat Indias Republic Day celebrations in the Indian capital a singular honour bestowedonly on special friends of India. The visit reinforced the model of good neigbourlyrelations the worlds oldest and most populous democracies have forged over theyears. A beaming Prime Minister Dr. Manmohan Singh and President PranabMukherjee warmly received the royal couple during the ceremonial reception at theforecourt of Indias presidential palace Rashtrapati Bhavan easy smiles, confidentialconversations and perfect photo-ops seamlessly merged with substantive discussionsthe Bhutan monarch had with his Indian interlocutors to pitch bilateral ties into ahigher trajectory.

Dr. Manmohan Singh, a firm believer in robust IndiaBhutan relations, underlinedIndias unwavering commitment to the development and prosperity of the Himalayanstate, a newly-minted democracy that prefers to measure its wealth in terms of GrossNational Happiness rather than the market-driven GDP. He also assured of continuedsupport of the Government of India to Bhutans 11th Five Year Plan for developmentprojects aimed at modernisation and closer integration of the economies and peopleof the two countries.

The Bhutanese monarch was generous in acknowledging Indias contribution to thesocio-economic development of his country over the past half a century and said thatits continued assistance would be indispensable for his countrys future growth.

Speaking at a state banquet in his honour on the eve of the Republic Day, the kingsspeech was laced with sparks of eloquence and even a touch of poetry. In this momentof great happiness I offer to you my deepest, most profound affection and goodwill.My bond with India is for life, for it arises from two loves my love for India and, mylove for Bhutan and my people, he said. Recalling his grandfather, who was invited asthe Republic Day chief guest in 1954, he said, quoting his grandfather, The destiny of

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(From left) The King ofBhutan with President

Pranab Mukherjee and DrSingh at the Republic Day

function, and whileinspecting the Guard of

Honour ceremony at thePresidential Palace in Delhi

Bhutan is intimately bound with that of India and it is in our mutual interests to furtherthe bonds of friendship and understanding.

And, many decades later, in a modernising Bhutan, my father (who was also thechief guest earlier) declared, India is the cornerstone of our foreign policy. To theseprofound assertions of intimate bonds I would like to state, Indo-Bhutan friendship isindispensable for the future success of Bhutan, he said.

Underlining a unique cultural intermingling between the two nations, he describedIndia as a great nation, and the motherland of our race, She was the mother ofour philosophy; mother of much of our mathematics mother, through the villagecommunity, of self-government and democracy. Mother India is in many ways themother of us all, he said, triggering resounding applause from assembled guests.

Inspiring words indeed, but a trusted diplomatic relationship is not just made ofpretty words and inspired eloquence. This is what puts the IndiaBhutan relations in adifferent league straight-from-the-heart speeches backed by substance and content.The kings reaffirmation that India remains the cornerstone of Bhutans foreign policy istimely and should silence sceptics who have made much of another emerging Asianpowers renewed interest in building bridges with the Himalayan state.

Its an ongoing good news story in transformational diplomacy, but needs to beplaced in context. India remains Bhutans largest trading and development partner.

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Over the years, a large chunk of Indias developmental assistance in form of loans,grants and lines of credit has been committed to Bhutan. The statistics tell their ownstory. Bhutan received around ` 1,723 crore from India for the year 2010-2011, saysthe Budget Report of the Ministry of External Affairs. The process of working withBhutan on its Eleventh Plan and consultations is progressing, says External AffairsMinister Salman Khurshid. These plans were further discussed during the visit ofBhutans PM Jigmi Y Thinely.

Bilateral trade is on an upswing. In 2011, bilateral trade was estimated to bearound ` 61.6 billion, comprising 72 per cent of Bhutans total imports and 85 percent of its exports. In power sector, a key pillar that underpins robust bilateral ties, thetwo countries have set new models to create a sphere of co-prosperity. In fact, powertrade has emerged as a key contributor for Bhutans tax revenues in 2011-2012. AsShyam Saran, Indias former foreign secretary, has put it aptly, Bhutan has becomethe richest country in South Asia because it has been able to properly harness its ownresources using Indian aid and investment. Saran has called hydropower collaborationa perfect example of a win-win situation.

The cascading rivers of Bhutan have a cumulative hydropower potential of 35,000MW. The power generated in Himalayan mountains and rivers light up smiles incountless homes in Bihar, West Bengal and Delhi. India has helped set up the 336 MW

IN 2011,BILATERAL TRADEBETWEEN INDIA

AND BHUTANWAS ESTIMATEDTO BE AROUND ` 61.6 BILLION,COMPRISING

72 PER CENT OFBHUTANS TOTAL

IMPORTS AND 85 PER CENT OF

ITS EXPORTS

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Chukha hydro project (1986-87), the 60 MW Kurichu (2001-02) and the 1,020 MWTala project (2006-2007). India has pledged to buy 10,000 MW by 2020, makingBhutan perhaps the only country in South Asia which enjoys trade surplus with NewDelhi. The two sides have already agreed on ten hydropower projects. Of these, thethree projects Punatsangchhu-I Hydro Electric Project, PunatsangchhuII andMangedechhu HEPs are under construction.

In the realm of national security, the strategically-located Bhutan continues to beof special significance to India. Issues related with security were discussed whenNational Security Adviser Shivshankar Menon called on the Bhutanese monarchduring the visit. Indias leaders have not forgotten how in 2003 the then King JigmeSingye Wangchuk personally led the offensive by the Royal Bhutan Army to cleanseanti-India insurgents such as the United Liberation Front of Assam from theBhutanese soil. Against the backdrop of reports about intensifying activities ofinsurgent groups along the IndiaBhutan border, counter-terror cooperation is boundto gain greater salience in the bilateral relations.

As the worlds budding democracy navigates its transition to modernity, the time-tested relations between India and Bhutan are set to acquire new traction in theevolving geopolitical flux in the region. Above all, its a relationship based onreciprocity. If India has been generous with funds and developmental assistance,

THIMPHUHAS BACKED NEWDELHIS POSITIONON A NUCLEAR-WEAPON-FREEZONE IN SOUTH

ASIA, THECOMPREHENSIVETEST BAN TREATY

AND THE 1998NUCLEAR TESTS

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Bhutan has consistently backed Indias claim for a permanent seat in the UN SecurityCouncil. Among other important issues, Thimphu has backed New Delhis position ona nuclear-weapon-free zone in South Asia, the Comprehensive Test Ban Treaty and the1998 nuclear tests at Pokhran.

From the time Indias first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, along with hisdaughter Indira Gandhi, trekked to Paro on yaks in 1958 to Bhutans embrace ofdemocracy and the first elections in 2008 to the royal couples choice of India as theirfirst stop after their wedding, to their latest visit to New Delhi in January, therelationship has exhibited a meeting of minds and hearts. With such trust and depthsof goodwill, the two countries have managed to create a radiant realm of co-prosperity.India will stand by you as a factor of stability and support in your quest for greaterprosperity and happiness, Dr Singh said in his address to the Bhutanese parliamentin 2010. And Bhutan has made it clear yet again that New Delhi remains thecornerstone of its foreign policy.

With this rare convergence of strategic and economic interests on the one handand an effortless cultural intermingling on the other, the multi-faceted relationsbetween India and Bhutan are poised to climb new peaks in days to come.

Manish Chand is Editor-in-Chief of India Writes (www.indiawrites.org), an online magazine focusedon international affairs and promoting dialogue among cultures.

(From left) The King andQueen of Bhutan paying floral tributes atRajghat, and the King in conversation with theExternal Affairs MinisterSalman Khurshid

Africa a continent known for its diversity, myriadtraditions, natural bounty, music and exuberance.India a country marked by myth, culture, colours,innovation, rapid economic growth and a vibrant

democracy. The INDIAFRICA relationship is unique andowes its origins to a common past and holds immensepotential for building a great shared future. The people havesimilar aspirations and dreams, face common challengesand tackle them in multiple ways that hold lessons not justfor themselves, but also for the rest of the world.

INDIAFRICA: A Shared Future is a programme that iscomplementing the various government-to-government,institution-to-institution and business-to-business linkages,with a unique people-to-people outreach based on sharedsensibilities. The objective is to bring the young people ofIndia and Africa closer and provide them with opportunitiesto engage meaningfully and expand their horizons.INDIAFRICA has created multiple platforms for students,entrepreneurs and visionaries to engage in dialogue,showcase their talent and collaborate to develop innovative

A SHARED FUTUREINDIAFRICA has created multiple platforms for people in India and Africa toengage in dialogue, showcase their talent and collaborate across sectorsTEXT: AMIT SHAHI


PARTNERSHIPS

INDIAFRICA campus ambassadors and AIESEC volunteers of the University of Addis Ababa, Ethiopia I

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solutions for problems old and new. Following deliberations at the INDIAFRICA Forum

Summit held at Addis Ababa in May 2011, INDIAFRICA: AShared Future was launched as a three-year project in July2011. Conceptualised and managed by theIdeaWorks, adesign and strategy firm headquartered in Delhi, theprogramme is supported by the Public Diplomacy Divisionof the Ministry of External Affairs, Government of India.

Guided by its operating philosophy, Compete.Collaborate. Co-Create the Future, INDIAFRICA organisescompetitions, discussions, campus outreach programmesand has instituted a Young Visionaries Fellowship programmefor young entrepreneurs. Several reputed institutions suchas Indian School of Business (ISB), Hyderabad; Universityof Witwatersrand, South Africa; National Institute of Design,Ahmedabad; University of Johannesburg, South Africa;Lagos Business School, Nigeria and Udaan School ofPhotography, India, have come on board as partners. Theworlds largest youth managed organisation AIESEC isproviding excellent support across Africa.

The competitions, open for participation in multiple

languages, have emerged as dynamic platforms for youthand professionals across India and Africa to collaboratethrough competition, innovation and entrepreneurship, andexplore future collaborations in business, design and culture.

The Young Visionaries Fellowship programme identifiespromising young entrepreneurs in India and Africa andoffers them opportunities for growth and cross-fertilisationof ideas. The vision is to encourage collaborativeentrepreneurship and trade, and a better understanding ofthe challenges and opportunities of doing business in thetwo geographies.

Over the first 12 months, INDIAFRICA: A Shared Futurevisited Kenya, Nigeria, Tanzania, Ethiopia, Rwanda,Uganda, Mozambique, South Africa, Zambia and Ghana.Multiple events and interactive sessions were organised,which presented an opportunity to interact with variousstakeholders such as universities, schools, industryassociations, students, entrepreneurs and opinion leaderswho welcomed the initiative as a means to forge meaningfulbonds between the youth from both the nations.

Season One of the contests drew participation from 21

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INDIAFRICA Interactive Session with African Heads of Mission in Delhi

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(Above, in centre) Michael Hubbard, an INDIAFRICA Young Visionary from South Africa with his friends at a Hyderabad orphanage; and (below) panelists, award winners and organisers after the INDIAFRICA Panel Discussion in Davos

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African countries and India. The Business VentureCompetition finals were held at Lagos Business School onSeptember 25 where leaders of the top nine teams madepresentations for three Grand Prizes of $10,000, $7,500and $5,000 and two trips to Davos, Switzerland during theWorld Economic Forum (WEF) Annual Meeting in January2013. A total of 124 prizes were announced.

Seven young entrepreneurs from Africa and five fromIndia won the Young Visionaries Fellowship, which carriesan individual grant of $10,000. They will be attending a six-day boot camp at ISB, Hyderabad with a view to harvest atleast six executable and scalable new ideas for INDIAFRICAcollaborative business ventures across sectors.

In the true spirit of INDIAFRICA: A Shared Future,Michael Hubbard, a student entrepreneur from University ofCapetown and one of the INDIAFRICA Young Visionaries, hasset a great example for all young people of Africa and India.He has visited Hyderabad three times over the past coupleof years. In a laudable act of selflessness, he has spent$2,000 of his grant on setting up a library at an orphanagein Hyderabad and has contributed $3,000 towards themedical treatment of Shashank, his fellow AIESECer in thesame city. The latter initiative inspired AIESECers across Indiato raise another $5,000 over a week to fund Shashankstreatment, helping him recover from a serious road accident.

INDIAFRICA: A Shared Future chose Davos, Switzerlandto share its story with the world during the WEF AnnualMeeting in January this year. An INDIAFRICA music medleywith three master musicians from India and Ghana was thehighlight of the September 23 awards evening. January 25saw a luncheon panel discussion themed How canINDIAFRICA and the World Co-create the Future.INDIAFRICA winners Kennedy Kitheka of South Africa,

Arnold Sarfo Kantanka of Ghana and Zubaida Bai of Indiamade individual presentations.

Dr Nkosana D Moyo, Executive Chairperson, MandelaInstitute of Developmental Studies, South Africa, in hisopening comments, spoke about the colonial past of bothIndia and Africa and how Africans have much to imbibefrom the Indian way, in learning to build their nascentdemocracies. The panelists, Jasandra Nyker, CEO,BioTherm Energy Pty Ltd, South Africa; Bright Simons,President, mPedigree Network, Ghana; and NeelamChibber, Founder, IndusTree, India discussed the varioussimilarities and differences between India and Africa andwhat both geographies could take away from each other.The discussion was moderated by Prof Michael Useem,Director, Centre for Leadership & Change Management,The Wharton School, University of Pennsylvania, USA.

Season Two of INDIAFRICA competitions are now openfor registration from both India and Africa. Campus outreachevents have been conducted in Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco,Burkina Faso, Cote dIvoire, Senegal and Ghana. The entriesfor the Business Venture competition close on March 14 andfor Essay Writing, Photography and Poster Design on April14, 2013. The INDIAFRICA Community of participants,winners and campus ambassadors is at work to ensuremaximum participation from both geographies.

With INDIAFRICA: A Shared Future, youth of Africa andIndia are not just discovering the joys of competing andcollaborating with each other, but also scripting futurehistories. The programme has built up a significant socialmedia presence with a Facebook community of over1,54,000 spread across Africa and India.

Amit Shahi is CEO and co-founder, theIdeaWorks. For moreinformation on the programme, log on to www.indiafrica.in

THE YOUNG VISIONARIESFELLOWSHIP PROGRAMME OFFERS YOUNG

ENTREPRENEURS IN INDIA AND AFRICAOPPORTUNITIES FOR GROWTH

AND CROSS-FERTILISATION OF IDEAS

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Breeze, Blooms & ButterfliesIndia Perspectives visits the best season of the year, spring

SPRING TIME


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(From left) Toweringchinar trees at NishatBeg Garden and visitorsin the Tulip Garden

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The Kashmir Valley comes alive with multi-hued flowers, tall and graceful Chinars and apple and pear treesin full bloom during spring. With terraced lawns, cascading fountains, bright flowerbeds with the panoramaof the Dal Lake in front of them, the Mughal Gardens of Nishat and Shalimar were the Mughal Emperorsconcept of paradise and to date are popular among beauty lovers. In 2007, the valley formally got themagnificent Tulip Garden, located on the eastern bank of the Dal. The captivating Zabarwan Mountainprovides the perfect backdrop to the garden that is well spread out over 30 hectares with more than 100varieties of tulip alone. Cultivation of different flowers in this garden was going on a limited scale till 1998.Soon the commercial floriculture activity started in the garden with the technical and financial assistance ofFood & Agriculture Organization, United Nations, and different varieties of tulip, alestromeria, gladiolii, liliumand gerbera were introduced. During 2006, former Jammu & Kashmir Chief Minister, Ghulam Nabi Azadconceptualised the dream of creating the Tulip Garden and about 2,75,000 tulip bulbs were imported fromHolland and sown here. In its first year, 2007, the garden hosted 20,000 visitors, with the number growingby leaps and bound to reach 1,50,000 in April 2012.

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TULIP GARDEN, KASHMIR

Valleys colourful bulbs

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THE MUGHAL GARDEN, NEW DELHI

Royalty and prideThe Mughal Garden of Rashtrapati Bhavan, New Delhi, is one of the most beautiful gardens of theworld. Its beauty lies in its design and architecture inspired by the gardens built during theMughal era and many elements of British garden art and extensive flora, comprising trees,bushes, vines, lawn grass and seasonal flowers. Located at the heart of Delhi and at the first addressof India, the Mughal Garden has kept pace with changing times with various value additions over theyears, thanks to the keen interest taken by successive Indian Presidents. Spread over 15 acres, the Mughal Garden includes a circular garden and a rectangular garden near the main RashtrapatiBhavan building, which is divided into four quarters, each with terraced gardens on either side.There are six fountains in the shape of a lotus to beautify the lawns. Known especially for over 250varieties of roses, this years attraction at the garden was the dahlia in different colours.


LALBAGH BOTANICAL GARDEN, BENGALURU

Nature at its bestIt was 1760 when the famous ruler of old Mysore, Hyder Ali developed a private garden in anarea of 40 acres. Inspired by a garden at Sira in Tumkur near Bengaluru, the garden was laterdeveloped by Alis son Tipu Sultan and subsequently by the British and Indian experts ofhorticulture. The continued efforts, extended area and vast and varied plant species brought thegarden the status of Government Botanical Garden in 1856. A delight to behold any time of theyear, today the Lalbagh Botanical Garden in Bengaluru has become a lush green paradise spreadover 240 acres and encompassing nearly 2,000 species of plants and 1,117 varieties of bonsai.The garden has well laid out paths, open spaces and shaded patches. With native and exoticflora of wide-ranging diversity, use and interest, this veritable treasure trove of plants is also animportant centre for dissemination of knowledge of plants.

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A newborn Three-spotG

Butterflies are known to be the reincarnation of souls; theyare believed to have been born from Virgin Marys tear drops,and are called Himalayan flowers who earned wings fromLord Vishnu! A date with the charismatic winged creaturesabounding the green expanses of KeralaPhotographs: Dr. Unni Krishnan Pulikkal, www.imagery.in

Beauty in

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Kerala, a haven forbutterflies, has over 300 speciesof rare, endemic and exoticspecies of colourful butterflies. Of them, 37 species are endemicto the Western Ghats.

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A newborn Three-spotGrass Yellow butterfly

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The Swallowtails(Papilionidae), the Brush-footed (Nymphalidae), theYellows and Whites (Pierridae),the Blues (Lycaenidae) andthe Skippers (Hesperidae) arethe families to look out for

(Top) Red Pierrots matingnear Peechi WildlifeSanctuary and (left) Lime butterflies onClerodendron flowers

Though butterfliesare active round the year, itrequires attention to spotone. If lucky, you couldwatch members of all fivefamilies in a single day


(Top) Tamil Lacewing and(left) Yamflies are the mostphotogenic butterfliesfound in Kerala

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Although Christmas has always seized thesocial and popular limelight, for Christians inIndia, as the world over, it is actually Easterthat is of a far deeper religious significance.

Easter is a quieter, more personal festival thanChristmas, and what is fascinating is that by and large,Indian Christians celebrate it in exactly the same way asChristians the world over.

Easter is at the very heart of the Christian spiritualcalendar, with its celebration of the death of Jesus andhis resurrection from the dead. The lowest point inChristian belief is plumbed on Good Friday, when Jesusdies on the cross. And the correspondingly highestspiritual point is reached on Easter Sunday, when Jesusrises from the dead, a symbolic triumph of life over death,of good over evil.

Easter cannot be separated from Lent, a periodlasting approximately six weeks before Easter, which isa time of spiritual reflection and also physical privation.Lent is when Christians typically give up somethingthey enjoy, as a token penance. It can be sweets orchocolate or that evening glass of wine, but the idea is

to deprive yourself of one of lifes little pleasures. In orderto clear your house of all such tempting goodies for thesix weeks, you have a big blow-out on the day beforeLent starts, Mardi Gras or literally Fat Tuesday whenyou gorge and party and dance for the last time beforethe solemnity of Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent.

Mardi Gras has always been celebrated in Goa, themost obviously Catholic part of India, in a centuries oldtradition called Intruz. After sinking into gentleoblivion, Intruz is being revived in some of the villagesof south Goa, with processions and carnivals, butnothing will ever really rival the big Mardi Gras carnivalin Panaji. From the religious processions introduced bythe Portuguese over 400 years ago, Carnival in Goa nowembraces religion, food and fashion shows.

After all that very public partying, drinking, dancingand colour, Ash Wednesday brings in Lent. In a ritual thatis both sad and moving, churches symbolically cover upall the statues, candles are extinguished, the church bellsare muffled, as all gaiety and colour is subdued. After thesix long weeks comes the Holy Week when churches allover the country are packed, taking you on a long

FESTIVAL

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Highest spiritual

point for Christia

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life

over death, of go

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Lent, a period las

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approximately six

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is a time of spirit

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The Holy Week, a longspiritual journey fromPalm Sunday throughto Easter Sunday, is a

busy time for churchesacross the country

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spiritual journey from Palm Sunday through to EasterSunday, with congregations reaching their maximumfrom Maundy Thursday onwards.

On Maundy Thursday the day of the Last Supper,after which Jesus was betrayed and captured Christians the world over eat hot cross buns, whichliterally have a cross on them. For people who have givenup pastries or cakes for Lent, hot cross buns are the onepermitted exemption.

Traditionally, the Good Friday service commemoratingthe death of Jesus on the cross begins at 3 pm, as that isaccepted as the time of his Crucifixion, and when thecrowds pour out of church three hours later, it is to beginthe countdown to Easter.

The Easter Vigil, a mass celebrated at midnight, tousher in Sunday, is a happy time. As chocoholic littlechildren, you know it is only a matter of hours till youcan break that fast. You watch as gradually life, colourand music come back into church. Symbolically, thestatues are uncovered, and the candles in church arelit in a moving communal ceremony. Everyone holds acandle, the priest lights the first candle, and one by onethe light slowly passes through the congregation, the

dark of midnight being banished. And then the bells are rung.

And Easter morning has dawned.Food takes centre stage on Easter Sunday.

Traditionally in India, as all over the world, children aregiven chocolate eggs, which are supposed to representthe stone that was rolled in front of Jesus grave, as wellas symbolising birth and spring. Kolkata old-timers recallwith nostalgia the chocolate eggs from Flurys, but asIndia increasingly embraces all that is global, childrenare now spoiled for choice with chocolate eggs andchocolate Easter bunnies available all over the country.

So far, Indias Easter rituals have hardly varied at allfrom those of Europe and the west, but the traditionalfamily lunch on Easter Sunday is naturally very local inflavour. While Goans might well eat sausage pulao,Syrian Christians will rather have traditional Kerala food,with appam and, as a treat, duck.

And life returns to normal, with everyone eating anddrinking all the goodies they had renounced for Lent, asEaster Sunday gives way to Easter Monday, a daydevoted to polishing off whatever remains of thosechocolate eggs.

THE NAME, EASTERSome traditions connect name Easter with the Babylonian and Assyrian

goddess of love and fertility, Ishtar or an Anglo-Saxon goddess of fresh

beginnings, Eostre. Probably the Christian holiday was named after

celebrations of spring and fertility. Talking of fertility, the star of festival is

the egg, a symbol of life. Like in other parts of the world, the eggs are

decorated, gifted and hidden.


TEXT: PALLAVI AIYAR

TRAVEL

KeralaA Slice of

A city that has linked India to the world, Kochisknown world over for its rich heritage

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As I sped along the 26 km-long road from Kochiairport to the Kerala citys historic heart, FortKochi, the warming vistas of golden-green paddyfields and coconut-laden palms were balm to my

winter-chilled soul. Palm fronds arched towards each otherto form a canopy over the still backwaters that criss-crossedthe area. The brochures claimed Kerala to be Gods owncountry, and, for once, the hype did not seem overblown.Punctuating the landscape, demure churches sheltered inthe shade of bulbous domed-mosques and signs for Jew

town swayed gently in the breeze by roadside Hindushrines, giving me my first taste of Kochis fabuloussyncreticism and multi-cultural history.

Throughout the millennium, Kochi had exported pepper,cardamom and coffee while importing waves of immigrantsand cultures, making it a spice-scented tapestry ofcosmopolitanism. It was long home to Syrian Christians,Jews and Arabs before becoming the centre of the battlefor control of the region between the European colonialpowers of Portugal, Holland and England.


TITLE TRACKAncient travellers andtradesmen referred toKochi as Cocym,Cochym and Kochi. TheKochi Jewish communitycalled Kochi as Kogin,which is seen in the sealof the synagogue. Theorigin of the nameKochi is thought to befrom the Malayalamword kochu azhi,meaning small lagoon.

However, somepeople believe that thename has a Chineseorigin, during the time ofKublai Khan. Yet anothertheory is that Kochi isderived from the wordKaci meaning harbour.Italian explorers NicoloConti and Fra Paolinesay that it was calledKochchi. After the arrivalof the Portuguese, andlater the British, thename Kochi stuck as theofficial appellation. Thecity reverted to a closerAnglicisation of itsoriginal Malayalamname, Kochi, in 1996.

(From left) A Kathakaliperformance andmusicians at theannual festival in Siva Temple,Kochi

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It even had a China connection, with many in Keralabelieving the city was named Kochi by the founder ofChinas Yuan Dynasty, Kublai Khan. Merchants from thecourt of Kublai Khan are also credited with havingintroduced to this part of southern India, one of the regionsbiggest tourist draws: the Chinese fishing nets.

Kochi incorporates several islands (all connected by aseries of bridges and ferries) and the mainland, Ernakulam.The areas called Mattancherry and Fort Kochi (where I wasstaying) were on the southern peninsula and were host to

most of the major places of interest. Given my timeconstraints, I had narrowed down my must-sees to four:the Chinese fishing nets, St Francis Church (the firstEuropean church built in India), the synagogue and theDutch palace.

From the hotel where I was staying, it was a few minuteswalk to the Chinese fishing nets, possibly the mostphotographed image in Kochi. They were to be found allalong the sea front and had a timeless grace. Each structurewas some 10 m high, comprising a cantilever with a massive

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(Above) Ferriesand (below)autorickshaws arethe main modes oftransport in andaround Kochi

MUST SEEFolklore MuseumKerala Folklore Theatreand Museum, set inThevara, Kochi, is amagnificent experienceof architectural beautyand traditionalperforming arts ofsouthern India. Thismuseum is packed withexquisite historicalobjects from windowframes to hand-paintedceilings. It housesperforming artsgarments, puppets,musical instruments,and Hindu and Christianarchitectural pieces.After having a tour of themuseum, the guides willshow you to the mainvenue hall where aperformance ofKathakali, Mohiniyattam,Bharatanatyam, andKalaripayattu is givenwith live music.

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hammock-like net on one end and heavy rocks suspendedfrom dangling ropes providing a counter weight on the other.

Before heading to the hotel for supper, I decided tocatch a traditional Kathakali dance-drama performance atthe Kerala Kathakali Centre next door. It turned out to be afascinating experience that introduced the basics of thishighly-stylised ritual theatre right from a demonstration ofthe intricate make up and elaborate masks used by theperformers, to the basic story structures of the art form.

There was much eyebrow waggling and lip quivering bythe all-male cast who were accompanied by a bevy ofpercussionists on instruments like the madalam,mridungam, gingira and tabla. Traditionally, a Kathakaliperformance tended to last all night. This one, luckily formy stomach, had been abridged to a tourist-friendly hour-and-a-half.

The next day, I spent the morning walking around FortKochi, taking in St Francis Church, and an atmosphericallydecrepit Dutch cemetery. The church dated back to the first

decade of the 16th century when it was built by FranciscanFriars, soon after the great Portuguese explorer Vasco daGama landed on Keralas shores in 1498, havingdiscovered the sea route from Europe to India. The explorerdied in Kochi in 1524 on his third visit to India, and his bodywas buried in the church for 14 years before being movedto Lisbon. I walked around the simple building till I cameupon his gravestone on the southern side of the church.Inside, ceiling fans hanging from the high, vaulted roof,turned lazily. In the front pew, a gnarled old woman wasdeep in prayer.

Now, the property of the Church of South India, StFrancis had been through several avatars, ranging from itsPortuguese origins when it was dedicated to St Anthony toa protestant rebirth at the hands of the Dutch who tookcontrol of the area in 1663. In the 19th century, it changedhands again when Anglicans took it over and rededicated itto St Francis of Assisi.

Kochis multi-layered European past was also in display

ST FRANCIS CHURCH WASBUILT BY FRANCISCAN FRIARS, SOONAFTER VASCO DA GAMA LANDED ON

KERALAS SHORES IN 1498, HAVINGDISCOVERED THE SEA ROUTE FROM

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at the wonderfully-dilapidated Dutch cemetery that I visitednext. As I waded through the overgrown grass taking a lookat the faded inscriptions on the gravestones of the Dutchand British traders and colonialists who had ended theirlives here, I could hear the sea lapping in the background.This was the oldest European graveyard in India, and it wastouchingly evocative.

An hour later, I was on my way to Mattancherry, for alook at its famous synagogue. The first migration of Jews toKerala is thought to have taken place in the 6th century BC,

although the synagogue in Kochi was built much later in1568. The synagogue had been used exclusively by theJews whose ancestry could be traced to the Middle Eastand Europe. These were Jews who had settled in Kochirelatively recently, from 16th century onwards. The otherJews, Malabari Jews were the citys original inhabitants. Thearea around the synagogue is known somewhat as JewTown. Tourists were seen shopping or browsing through thenumerous antique and spice shops.

The Dutch palace was a spacious two-story 16th-century


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building that turned out to actually have been built by thePortuguese, who gave it to the Raja of Kochi as a token ofthanks for trading rights and favours granted to them. Whenthe Dutch claimed Kochi in 1663, they also took control ofthe palace, which explained the misnomer. The fabulousmurals in bright red, green and yellow ochre, depictingstories from Indian mythology that covered the walls of thebedroom chamber, made for an absorbing couple of hours.Also on display were a collection of coronation robes,palanquins and royal family portraits.

Ernakulam, my last stop in Kochi was the face ofmodern India: chaotic, disjunctive and colourful with cowsand overcrowded buses jostling each other for road-spaceand colourful film posters pasted on every street corner. Thedinner at the Taj Malabar Hotel on Willingdon Island, whichboasted a magnificent view of the Kochi harbour, made itthe perfect last evening. As the evening waned I felt littlepricks of future nostalgia. Although I was sad to be leaving,I comforted myself with the knowledge that Id be taking alittle piece of Kerala with me.

(From left) A Dutchcemetery and St Francis Church,where Vasco daGama was buried

HOW TO REACHBy air: TheNedumbasseryInternational Airport isabout 20 km away fromKochi. By rail: Kochi has threeimportant railheads:Harbour Terminus onWillingdon Island,Ernakulam town andErnakulam Junction.Ernakulam Junction iswell connected to allcities in India. By road: Kochi is wellconnected by busservices. The state-runbuses connect Kochiwith all major cities inKerala and with manycities in Tamil Nadu andKarnataka.

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FLIGHTS ANDWHISTLES

The pigeon fanciers of Old Delhi havekept their passion aliveTEXT: ARUN GANAPATHY

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t was 3 o clock on a winter afternoon. The past few dayshad been foggy but that day the skies were clear andbrilliantly blue. In the distance I could see the domes andminarets of Delhi. On the terrace of Nadeem Ahmads

small house a light chilly wind blew, but the sun was stillstrong. Suddenly Nadeem let out a high-pitched whistle andlooked towards the sky. Ao aao, aao (come, come), hecalled, waving a stick with a cloth at its end. My eyesfollowed his hand and head to see a flock of pink, white,brown and grey pigeons dive in and out of the surroundingrooftops and brickfaced backs of houses.

Nadeem and his friend Shakeel are part of a traditioncalled kabootar baazi or pigeon fancying. It goes back tothe times of Mughal Emperor, Akbar. It is said that whenJahangir fell seriously ill in his boyhood, a worried Akbarannounced that he would reward anyone who would helphis son recover. In response, an aged mystic declared thatthe Prince would recover if he was kept in a room full ofpigeons. True to the mystics word, Jahangir recovered anddeveloped a liking for the pigeons. When he became theEmperor, pigeon fanciers flocked to his court from Egyptand Baghdad and from them Jahangir learnt the art ofkabootar baazi. In those days pigeons were mainly used tocarry messages, but when that function died kabootar baazicontinued as a sport. It was, and still is, popular in Agra,Lucknow and Delhi, said Nadeem, who threw some more

grain and the pigeons tumbled over each other to get them.This here is a Hyderabadi chotidaar, he said pointing toa white pigeon with red eyes. Look its got a crest.

By now the grain was over and the males had startedchasing the females. Nadeem stamped his foot; andtogether the pigeons fluttered their wings and took off likea helicopter. Just when I thought he had lost them for good,Shakeel, Nadeems friend, stuck his fingers into his mouthand whistled in a low-pitched tone. Instantly the pigeonsturned around and flew back towards Nadeems terrace.How did you manage that? I asked Shakeel. Thesepigeons understand our whistles. A high-pitched onemeans fly far. A low soft tone means come back, a yell tomake them behave, he replied.

Every rooftop here looks alike, and each has peoplefancying the pigeons. How do the pigeons know whichrooftop to come back to? I asked. We train them. On thefirst day we dont feed the pigeon any food, then we slowlyfeed them at particular times. From these habits, thepigeons know which flock and house they belong to. Wealso train them to recognise our voices and whistles. Aftera months training, the pigeons are ready, he said.

As we were talking Nadeem opened the mesh door ofthe coop and we both crawled in. Inside were rows ofpigeon holes. On each of them sat a pigeon of a differentcolour. This is lal bhan, this Agra shahi, he pointed out


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more varieties. I have 90 pigeons and it costs me about`3,000-4,000 a month to maintain them. To keep them coolin summer, we drape khus khus mats around the coop andfeed them almonds. In winter, we feed them desi ghee andwarm food. And treat them when they fall ill.

The surrounding rooftops were full of kabootar baaz,each whistling his own particular whistle. Small clouds ofpigeons filled the sky in front of the minaret. Those belongto Mullahji, said Nadeem identifying one cloud. Shakeelcan identify the pigeons just by the colour of their eyes. Wealso put coloured rings around their legs, see the orangeones, he pointed out.

It was time for a little competition, a demonstration ofwho the ruler of pigeon airspace was. Nadeem stamped hisfeet and all of them waved their sticks; the pigeons took to the air again and whirled around the rooftop. Meanwhile,Mullahjis flock was dipping and diving around the mosque. Both flocks came close to each other at momentsbut never met.

Mullahji is not excited, but he will be when we fly our

new ones, said Shakeel and Nadeem threw the newpigeons out of the coop. In less than a minute they wereflying over Mullahjis house. This time the two flocksmerged. For the next few minutes, they wheeled, whirled,dipped and dived over the jumble of mud houses and trees.Suddenly, a conspiratorial whisper went around the group.

Kale gandedhar has come, said Shakeel excitedly. Ilooked up to see the flock banking like aircraft in front ofNadeems terrace. They were preparing for their final diveon to the terrace. Nadeem and Shakeel softened their yells.

At the back was an extra pigeon. Come, come, oh oh,Nadeem softened his tone more, coaxing, pleading Mullahjiskale gandedhar to land. Just as the flock made one final tightturn, kale gandedhar wobbled and Nadeem stopped calling.At that moment, Mullahjis pigeon wheeled around and flewtowards his home. A stranger to the flock wont settle, it willwobble and jerk, said Shakeel. The sun, now the colour ofmolten iron, had started dipping on the horizon. As Idescended the rickety ladder, I understood why kabootarbaazi is still a great passion of the old Delhiwallahs.


Kabootar baazi goes back to the times of Mughal Emperor, Akbar, and flourished during the reign of

Jahangir. Pigeon fanciers from as far as Egypt and Baghdad flocked Jahangirs court

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The spirit of multiculturalism and direct exchange of soft power is playingout in contemporary theatre, a hybrid form culling from different linguistic,traditional and literary sources. Manipur-born director Jayanta Meetei, analumnus of New Delhis National School of Drama (NSD), has been

experimenting with multilingual theatre in five languages Manipuri, Japanese,Malay, Mandarin and an ethnic Taiwanese at his repertory company, Ex-TheatreAsia, at the picturesque Miaoli mountain resort, in western Taiwan for the last 10years. Meetei is the only Indian theatre exponent in Taiwan and manages hiscompany of 11 actors with a government grant. His repertoire is a neo-Asian genre a mix of traditional Indian, Manipuri folk, western post-modernism and Chinesetraditional and contemporary styles lending a distinctive feel to 17 productions,including a Mandarin version of Girish Karnads play Haya Vadana.

I combine all the Asian art forms to give new expression to contemporarytheatre. Our Asian theatre is characterised in music, dancing, physical acting,exaggerated acting and elaborate costumes. I draw from all these commonalitiesto add value, Meetei said.

Meetei was in India at NSDs Bharat Rangmahotsav, an annual theatre festival,with a production, A True Calling in Manipuri and Mandarin based on an Indianfolktale by Vijaydan Detha. The play is built around two actors, an ancient Manipuriperformer and a Chinese multi-discipline modern actor. One of the actors narratesthe story of fellow actor, who earns his living by playing a variety of roles. The king

STAGECRAFT

THE NEW LANGUAGE OF

THEATREAs a medium, inter-cultural theatre helps nations develop

to common idiom of global cultural understanding

TEXT: MADHUSREE CHATTERJEE


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A scene fromthe play, A TrueCalling

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Scenes fromPaddy HaytersIndian Tempest

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hears of his talent and calls the actor to put up the biggest performance of hislife. But at the end of the performance, the king refuses to pay the actor themoney he had promised him. For Meetei, the play is a comment on the modernpolitical leadership.

Over the last three decades since the mid-1970s, foreign theatre has beenspurring a slow cultural fusion on the Indian stage with indigenous adaptations ofwestern plays and modern theatre practises of Europe and the US. In the late1980s and 1990s, the winds of globalisation drove Indian theatre to experimentwith diverse cultures and languages from across continents for direct osmosis onstage, the director said.

One of the earliest experiments of the east-meets-west on stage is Americandirector and scholar Peter Brooks Mahabharata starring danseuse Mallika Sarabhaias Draupadi in a crossover cast in 1989. In the recent years, the Indo-westerncollaborations around Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsens plays involving foreignactors, directors and Indian repertories at the annual Ibsen Festival in Delhi can bedescribed as an example.

Director Paddy Hayter of the Footsbarn Theatre has prompted a new dialogueacross cultures with an adaptation of William Shakespeares The Tempest, believedto have been conceived around 1610-1611 in English, French, Sanskrit andMalayalam at the Bharat Rangmahotsav.

I have used five performers from Kerala three actors, one actress and one


I COMBINE ALL THE ASIAN ART FORMS TO GIVE NEW

EXPRESSION TOCONTEMPORARY THEATRE

JAYANTA MEETEI, DIRECTOR, EX-THEATRE ASIA


musician for my production Indian Tempest. I decided to use four languagesbecause I believe in creating natural situations in theatre where it is impossible tospeak the same language. But it is communication through words the words areour guides and our mentors, Hayter said.

The Footsbarn Theatre uses a mlange of styles that is inspired by traditionaloutdoor performance, opera, conventional proscenium theatre, mobile tenttheatres and old world drama. What is important is that there have been a lot ofinter-cultural experiments when you put two cultures together and you expect athird meaning. It is a dialogue between languages, different bodies and stories,said Anuradha Kapur, Director, NSD.

According to Kapur, the NSD has been trying to open similar inter-culturaldialogues by inviting directors from around the world to interface with students inits campus in India and direct them on stage. They introduce aspects of theirown styles, traditions and practise to Indian students, Kapur said, citing anexample of a version of King Lear staged by Uzbek director at the NSD withOttoman costumes.

Inter-cultural theatre as a medium to develop to common idiom of globalcultural understanding was first set in motion by the United Nations in 1948 whenit set up the International Theatre Institute. The forum hosts the Theatre of Nations an inter-cultural performance umbrella and celebrates the World TheatreDay every year.

Madhusree Chatterjee is an assistant editor at IANS

INTER-CULTURAL THEATRE ISA DIALOGUE BETWEEN

LANGUAGES, DIFFERENTBODIES AND STORIES

ANURADHA KAPUR, DIRECTOR, NSD

20/03/13 2:40 PM Page 6

An Enemy of the Peopleis based on a story byHenrik Ibsen

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After a glorious journey of 10 years, the Delhi Metro Rail Corporationaims to achieve more landmarks in years to come

A SMOOTH RIDE TO SUCCESS

MI L E S TONE

MANGU SINGH

t was December 24, 2002, when the residents of Delhi,and we at the Delhi Metro Rail Corporation (DMRC),embarked on a journey that was set to change Delhi andour lives for better. The task at hand was huge to give

the Indian capital a mass rapid transit system (MRTS), whichwas suggested to be the only solution to citys ever-increasingtraffic problems. Considering MRTS is either built on elevatedviaducts or underground and does not take up any roadspace and is environment friendly, the idea was to have aservice running parallel to the existing transport modes andfitting in with the clean and green image of Delhi.

But the task was not as easy as it was envisioned. Therewere challenges, which in the long run made the journey allthe more interesting. Excitement still fills my mind whenever

I recall those hectic days that lead to the commencementof the 8.5 km journey from Shahdara to Tis Hazari stationin 2002. The realisation of the dream could never havefructified without the able leadership of DMRCs firstmanaging director Dr. E Sreedharan, who was not only asuperb engineer, but also an impeccable people manager.Dr. Sreedharan always led from the front and created a workculture unheard of in most public sector establishments in the country.

Looking back all those years, I would like toacknowledge the years of tireless teamwork that made theDMRC, in many departments, a step ahead of the rest. Forexample, Delhi Metro was the first ever Metro systemglobally to introduce contact-less tokens and smart cards.

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Besides, DMRCs Operations and Maintenance team setnew benchmarks in terms of professionalism by runningtrains with immaculate punctuality and maintaining theMetro stations superbly. Frequent inspections of thestations and construction sites by officials ensured qualitycontrol. Soon the efforts made the service a well-readsubject by reputed international management institutesthat visited us to study and analyse our performance. In2011, DMRC was certified by the United Nations (UN) asthe first Metro rail and rail-based system in the world to getcarbon credits for reducing greenhouse gas emissions, asit helped to reduce pollution levels in Delhi by 6,30,000tonnes every year.

PEOPLE POWERMore than anything, DMRCs greatest achievement has beenthe faith of the people of Delhi. Our average daily ridershiphas increased by almost 3,00,000 in the last one year. Thepunctuality rate has also been a commendable 99.87 percent. From a mere 8.5 km in 2002 we have grown to 190 km

7 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MARCHAPRIL 201370

M E T R O P E D I A Delhi Metro has been a bridgebetween Delhi and its residents andexpatriates alike, connecting them tocitys lesser visited pockets. Over theyears, it has perked up Connaught Placeand Chandni Chowk, made areas onDelhis fringes habitable, helped citytourism, and made corporate houses in the NCR choose the serviceover private vehicles.

The highest point of the Delhi Metro isat Karkardooma crossing in East Delhi 19 metres above the ground. Its deepeststation is Chawri Bazar with a depth of 25 metre. The Chattarpur Metrostation is the only station that is madecompletely of steel.

By 2021, Delhi Metro promises to bewithin 500 metre radius of everyresidential colony in Delhi.

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today and our ridership has increased from a few thousandsto over two million per day. Satellite towns of the NationalCapital Region (NCR) such as Noida, Gurgaon andGhaziabad are already on the Metro map and Faridabad andBahadurgarh are slated to join within a few years.

We thank the active feedback of Metro commuters tohelp us improve by the day. All the commuter-oriented stepstaken by us such as the introduction of reserved coaches forladies or reserved seats for senior citizens have been takenon the basis of the feedback of our commuters. We havea public complaint cell and a 24X7 helpline service to helppassengers connect to us whenever they feel like. In the lastdecade, DMRC also added a museum at Patel Chowk tomake people aware about the service. The museum is justa humble beginning towards our effort to document ourjourney. A museum in Hindi is also in the pipeline.

LOOKING AHEADIn the last one year, we have continuously strived to improvethe quality of DMRC and introduced an eight-coach train.

We plan to introduce 68 such trains into service in a phasedmanner which will tremendously increase our overallcarrying capacity and help in controlling overcrowding atstations. Over 120 new automated fare collection gateshave been installed at some of our busy stations to facilitatesmoother crowd movement. To boost the securityapparatus, 160 new door frame metal detectors and 104hand-held metal detectors have also been added.

In the coming years, our immediate target is to completethe under-construction Metro corridors on time. We wantto take the Metro to all corners of the NCR so that thepressure of vehicular traffic on the roads is reduced.Besides focusing on our own expansion, we are guiding theupcoming Metro projects of other Indian cities in ourcapacity as consultants.

To conclude, I would like to ensure that in the years tocome too, Delhi Metro will continue to work equally hard toprovide the best possible services to its commuters and givethem more reasons to travel with us daily.

The writer is Managing Director, Delhi Metro Rail Corporation

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We organised a tour to the tribal area of Jawhar-Kelichapada nearly two years ago and it was agreat hit! said Chandan Pathare, director,Jungle Cub, a specialised tour operator.

Pathare recalled the general quiet and get-away-from-it-allcharacter of the location and learning the traditions of theAdivasis (early people) as reasons for the big hit.

With the growing demand for ever-newer places with stillnewer experiences, tribal tourism has the added advantageof benefitting the local economy. Our aim in starting tribaltourism in Kelichapada village was to bring economicbetterment for the local population without having to migrateout of their villages, looking to earn a livelihood, said an

official at the Pune-based BAIF Development ResearchFoundation, a non-profit which works to provide gainful self-employment and sustainable livelihood for rural poor.

Tribal tourism fit BAIFs aims and objectives and theprogramme began four years ago at Kelichapada, in Jawhartaluka of Thane district, about 180 km north of Mumbai.The tribals of the area had first to be trained, which involvedtraining them as guides, setting up the infrastructure tohandle overnight tourists or those wanting meals.

The BAIF official added, Our objective was tocomplement the under-employment of the locals who workin their fields two-three hours a day in the monsoon seasonbut had to migrate at other times, looking for work. We wanted


LEGACY

NaturesEndogenous tourism initiatives in the tribal area of Jawhar-Kelichapada,

Maharashtra, focus on supporting its culture and livelihoodTEXT: MALTI PANDE

A tribal plays at

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them to have livelihoods in their own setting so we identifiedthis village, Kelichapada, near Jawhar, in Thane district.

BAIF calls this endogenous tourism that is, originatingfrom the local surroundings, and different from eco-tourism.The focus of eco-tourism, the BAIF officials point out, is thepreservation of natural resources and landscape, whileendogenous tourism focuses on the culture and crafts of theregion through projects that are owned by the community.The best season to visit this area is SeptemberApril whenthe countryside turns a lush green immediately after the rain.

Kelichapada is a hamlet comprising 72 families of whichnearly 50 families participate in the tourism project. Whilea dormitory, which can house up to 20 people, and toiletshave been built, there are also some home-stay facilities.Living conditions are very basic here and you are withnature. Youve heard of confluences of rivers, but nearKelichapada is a confluence of waterfalls! This is amazingand the location lends itself to adventure tourism. Besidesare traditional food and culture, Pathare said.

Jairam Jadhav, a member of the Kalmandavi Paryatak

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HOW TO GET THERE:Jawhar is 180 km fromMumbai, 85 km fromNashik and 289 kmfrom Pune.Nearest airports areMumbai and NashikThere are fiverailheads: Thane,Nashik, Igatpuri,Dahanu and Palghar

7 INDIA PERSPECTIVES MARCHAPRIL 201374

(From left) Tribalspresenting theirlocal dance; anartist at work;women preparingfood; and a warmwelcome of thetourists

3:30 PM Page 4

Samiti (the local tourism committee) and a guide said thehighlight of the locale is to see nature and the tribal culture.Visitors want to see our traditional dances, hear thetraditional music, and walk around, where we can explainabout the different vegetables, fruits and flowers. For touristswanting a full village experience, there are bullock cart ridesas well. And the money that is spent by these tourists, whobuy our artefacts or have lunch prepared by the women inour group, stays here, Jadhav said.

BAIF began the project under its innovating livelihoodsthrough hospitality service provider programme. The planis now to organise special programmes during localfestivals. Coming up in July is the rice festival, wheretourists can witness paddy transplanting. This dovetailsneatly with the broader objective of preserving localrice varieties. There are also programmes to preserve thewild vegetables of the region.

Tourists who have been to Kelichapada, recalled theitinerary, beginning with a warm welcome, followed by atraditional lunch and a three-km walk to the Kalmandavi

waterfall. In the evening, over dinner around a campfire, villagers presented their traditional dances andkathakari (stories set to music). Among the other attractionsare a sacred grove, a Sunset Point, handicraft such asmasks made from papier mch and the renownedtraditional Warli paintings. Warli, a tribe of the region, is arecognised style of art, done typically on mud-plasteredwalls using rice paste depicting scenes from their lives.

Jawhar, located at a height of 518 metres, is the seat ofan old Gond tribal kingdom. The Jai Vilas Palace has longbeen a major tourist attraction while the region is home tothe Kukana, Kolcha and Warli tribes. Kelichapada is in theplains, amid the paddy fields.

Tours to this village can be either a day trip or anovernight stay. The charges vary from ` 450-500 for the daypackage to ` 800 for an overnight trip. These chargesinclude accommodation and food and some part of theincome generated is ploughed back into the communitykitty. This is intended to help with the maintenance andimprovement of tourist infrastructure, said a visitor.


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Thirteen years ago Nileema Mishra returned to her roots in Bahadarpur,Maharashtra, and started Bhagini Nivedita Gramin Vigyan Niketan (BNGVN), anon-governmental organisation that addresses the communitys problems fromwithin the village. The project that began with just 14 women is today a 20,000-

women initiative with 1,800 self-help groups in 200 villages across Maharashtra, engagingin micro credit and other income-generating activities.

Mishra had seen so much poverty around her during her childhood that even as ateenager, when girls her age were dreaming about better things in life, she would spendhours visualising a better future for her villagers. I thought that the lady who spent her nightsin starvation would have good food to eat. The one who had poor housing condition wouldhave a good house, recalls the 41-year-old social worker, recipient of the Ramon MagsaysayAward in 2011 and now the Padma Shri. Awards have given me the confidence that I amon the right track of community development. But winning any award was never my dreamor goal. What motivates me is the feeling that the work we do for people is actuallysupporting them to improve their lives, she says.

Sporting short hair and always dressed in a salwar kameez (a traditional attire), Mishradraws inspiration from Mahatma Gandhis vision of a self-sufficient, prosperous village. Bornto a middle class family, she went to Pune for further studies and was equipped with amasters degree in clinical psychology. She could have continued working in the cityenjoying all the comforts of urban life, but poverty of her village beckoned. In 2000, shereturned to her village and started BNGVN. In 2004, the village farmers desperatelyneeded funds but did not have access to banks. Thats when they approached BNGVN,which made them start the micro-credit scheme. Soon money was raised and villagerswere provided with loans at 10 per cent interest rate per annum. Today, the micro-creditprogramme has a 100 per cent loan recovery rate.

TEXT: URMILA MARAK

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PROFILE

THE SELFLESSCRUSADERNileema Mishra has been instrumental in effecting majorchanges in improving the lives of villages in Maharashtra

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Active on ground, NileemaMishra keenly participates in all

of BNGVNs projects

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WE ARECOMMITTED TO

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A SYSTEM,WHICH WOULD

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FOR THEIR OWNDEVELOPMENT

Mishra in conversation with themembers of BNGVN


The positive stories are endless. BNGVN is helping women in making export-qualityquilts. They have become so confident that they train other women in making quiltsbesides going outside the state to get raw materials at a cheaper rate. Its other initiativesinclude helping women in producing food items that are marketed locally through 20outlets called Bhagini Kendra. The women into marketing these products have formedBhagini Vypari Sanghatana, a cooperative, to spread the business to four other districts ofthe state. Her organisation has so far succeeded in training villagers in production,marketing, accounting and computer literacy and has also been instrumental in makingthem articulate and confident.

Today, women are active members of these groups and saving substantial amount.They are lending internal loans and taking care of their needs through the self-help groupswithout going to private money lenders to take loans at a high interest rate, she says.

But things are not always rosy for her and her team. Their main stumbling blocks arearranging funds for the projects and the huge administrative expenses of the organisation.Arranging for funds takes a toll on our core team. We believe that we could use this energyin concept development, as well as its implementation in the community.

Despite the challenges, Mishra takes pride in her team. Isnt it great to have a coreteam by your side that understands what you think and conceptualise? she asks, satisfiedthat the support of her teammates has made the journey so far, easier.

Working 24X7 does not tire this social activist as her daily routine revolves aroundBNGVN always. When not travelling, Mishras entire day is packed with meeting villagers.We have a lot of discussions to find solutions to their problems, as I believe in peoplesparticipation. People from other villages too approach us for our intervention, she adds.

Now, that her team has become independent and efficient, she travels extensively toguide and mentor other self-help groups and to meet donors to raise funds. She does notshy away from admitting that looking for good donors is an arduous task. But her quest toeffect more changes in improving the lives of the villagers is making her work even harder.Making Bahadarpur a model village and replicating the process in other villages besidescreating a self-sustainable community is what Mishra is looking at in the future.

This process involves taking all the challenges to the small lanes of the village and tothe self-help groups and finally to individual homes. We are committed to support thevillages with a system, which would take care of their education, health, communitydevelopment and livelihood, gradually making them responsible for their owndevelopment, she says, suggesting the million-dollar smiles of the villagers as her drivingforce. The smiles are priceless. I chose to live for the many families around me and thatgives me a lot of strength to live my life, she signs off.

The fifth edition of the India Art Fair 2013, organisedFebruary 1-3 in New Delhi, offered everything onecould anticipate. Contemporary, dynamic andenjoyable, it was undeniably a fitting tribute to

experimental avant-garde art that co

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