Introduction

Welcome …

You have made a wise and prudent purchasing decision. We are committed to making this a profitable decision and are looking forward to providing the type of service, dedication and cooperation you deserve. Our commitment to you is unwavering and your input is invaluable. We realize there are numerous applications, operational learning curves, installation limitations, and other potential problems we have not encountered; therefore, please feel free to call us any time because a successful operation is a team effort and we thank you for allowing Crippen Company to be part of your team.

Should you encounter any difficulties, please contact your local sales representative or the Crippen Company immediately. This is very important! Continued operation when there is a problem could result in damage to other components.

Please take the time to read this “Installation Guide & Operator’s Manual” to insure that your equipment is installed and operated in the proper manner. When this unit is installed and operated properly, it will provide years of trouble free and profitable service.

For your future reference and to expedite any parts or guarantee work with your machine, the model number, serial number, and date of shipment have been included below. Please fill in the numbers below to match the information that appears on the machine nameplate.

MODEL NUMBER ___________________________________

SERIAL NUMBER ___________________________________

DATE OF SHIPMENT ___________________________________

Warranty The Crippen Manufacturing Company will replace free of charge, within one year from

date of shipment, any part which in its judgement has failed because of defective material or workmanship, providing the part has been shown to have been properly installed and operated. This warranty does not obligate Crippen to bear any transportation charges concerning the replacement of defective parts or the return of defective parts.

This warranty shall not apply to any part which shall have been repaired, altered, neglected or used in any way which, in Crippen’s opinion, adversely affects performance; nor to replacement of normal service items.

This warranty and Crippen’s obligation hereunder, is in lieu of all other warranties, expressed, implied or statutory.

Notice to Our Customers

Our equipment is inspected, tested, and packed before leaving our facilities in perfect condition.

When the equipment is received, it must be inspected by your staff for completeness and damage. If any discrepancies exist, a claim must be filed with the carrier. A carrier’s inspection report must accompany any claims. This is a matter the customer should take up with the carrier who delivered the goods even if hidden damage is discovered later. The customer needs to verify damage further by photograph, after which the carrier’s insurance company can authorize repair or replacement.

Without written authorization, we cannot accept any goods for return.

Contact our factory if you have a claim or if you require a “Return Goods Authorization”.

Crippen Manufacturing Company Toll-Free: (800) 872-2474 400 Woodside Drive Phone: (989) 681-4323 St. Louis, MI 48880 Fax: (989) 681-3818

It is also important that you carefully check to make sure damage did not occur in shipment. Any damage must be reported on the bill of lading/shipping document at the time of unloading.

Important Notice!

Road transportation of this equipment from the factory to your location may have loosened the set screws and bolts.

Before running the equipment, check all set screws, bolts, bearing collars, and bushings to ensure they are all tight.

Re-check this hardware periodically as part of the regular maintenance.

INSTRUCTIONS-DIS-ASSEMBLY AND RE-ASSEMBLY MODEL

M-4272 & M-54572

Main units to be removed: Hopper, receives the grain and feeds it to the screens. Upper airflue, acts as a settling chamber for the material lifted at the hopper by the air from the upper airflue fan. Lower airflue, acts as a settling chamber for the material lifted by the lower airflue fan drawing air from the cleaned seed discharge opening. Upper airflue spout, light material lifted by the air at the hopper settles into this spout and discharges from the machine. Lower airflue spout, light material lifted by the lower air at the discharge from the machine drops into this spout and discharges from the machine. The upper air spout and the lower air spouts have gates covering the discharges. The lower air spout is contained in the bottom shoe. Only the extension with the gate need be removed. Top shoe, contains screens number 1, 2, and 3. Bottom shoe, contains screens number 4 and 5. Brush drive crosshead, located under the bottom shoe at the front of the machine, this unit drives the brushes back and forth under the screens. Tapers, located to tap on all screens except number one, there is a taper for each of the 36” screen sections. Note that there are two separate taper drives. One drives the tapers and two and four screens and the other drives the tapers on three and five screens.

Remove the hopper first: The hopper is supported by four cast iron legs. Unbolt these from the frame at the bottom of the legs. Remove the cover on top of the hopper and remove the wood screws that connect it to the upper airflue. The hopper is wider that the airflue and the boards that cover this offset are also screwed into the upper airlfue. Be sure to remove all wood screw before pulling too hard on the hopper, to make sure it is loose. Remove the bolts from the 1” bearings that carry the feed roll shaft in the hopper and unhook the bracket that holds the gate control rod to the front frame crossmember. The hopper should be free to be lifted off the machine.

Remove the upper airflue and fans: Check the door in your building to see if the upper airflue and fans can go through as one unit. If they can, both fans can be left bolted to the upper airflue. Remove the door between the fans at the back end of the machine. If the fans and upper airflue can be left assembled, remove only the bolts and screws that holds the lower airflue to the fan housings and the sheetmetal panels inside between the fans. Disconnect the fan control rods and lift out the two units together. If the doorway is not wide enough for both units together, then remove the bolts that hold the upper airflue to the fan housings and the sheetmetal panels inside the fans and lift off the top airflue separately.

Remove the lower airflue: This airflue can come off before the fans. Remove all bolts from the fan housings, also the bolts from the 3 ½ x 5 x 1 ½” long angle brackets that hold the airflue to the frame and the lower airflue can be lifted off.

Note: When removing the fans, unbolt the fan shaft bearings from the frame, leaving the shaft through the fans.

Remove the upper airflue spout: Before removing this spout, mark with a pencil the outline of the spout on the board to which it is attached. This will help when reassembling.

Remove the top shoe: To do this, the carriages must come out and the brush tracks, which are bolted to the 2:” side channels with the slotted brackets, must be removed.

Before removing the brush carriages, be sure to mark each one starting with the carriage on the top screen, number 1, 2, etc. and also mark the word “Front” on each one on the front crosspiece. Note-front means the front end of the machine, which is the end opposite the fans or the end form which the screens are removed. By marking the carriages in this way, you will be able to put them back in the same position from which they were removed.

After marking all the carriages, unhook the toggle pins in the center of the carriages and they can be taken out. To unhook the side roller chains that connect to the carriages, loosen just ONE of the turnbuckles at each toggle pin in place with a jam nut against the turnbuckle casting. Loosen the left turnbuckle at each carriage position just enough to unhook it from the toggle pin casting. DO not unhook any of the chains from the crosshead below the bottom shoe. By removing just the one turnbuckle from the casting, both chains will loosen, but it will simplify replacing and lining up again. As each chain is unhooked, roll it up and tie it with a wire at the crosshead so they do not become tangled.

Crippen Model MB-5472

This machine is the same as the M-5472 except for the number one scalping screen. In the M-5472, this top screen is the Rough Scalper, where the main product goes through the screen and the rough scalpings stay on top.

In the MB-5472, this system is reversed and the number one screen is used to remove dirt, sand, small weed seeds, etc. and the main product stays on top of the screen.

The divider troughs at the low end of this screen split the flow into two streams.

All the scalping is done on the number two and number four screens.

Number three and number five screens are “Bottom” screens to remove foreign material smaller than the main product.

The change in the number one screen is the only difference from the M-54572.

Model: M-5472 and M-4272

INSTRUCTIONS TO CONVERT BRUSH SYSTEM TO RUBBER BALL SCREEN CLEANING SYSTEM

Remove all five screens form machine, them disconnect the drive to the crosshead which pulls the brush carriages. (Note if the machine has tapers, this drive must be left intact and the gears in the crosshead must be disconnected, instead). Remove the brush carriages, the 1” square brush carriage tracks and the chains, which pull the carriages.

Remove two screen rests at rear of number one screen. Remove wood crosspiece at front of number one screen and cut off two inches. Then replace narrower board in shoe. Slide tray labeled number one into place with labeled end toward front.

Note: each ball tray is labeled: “1”, “2-F”. “2-R”, “3-F”, “3-R”, etc., indicating its screen position and whether it is the front or rear section. When sliding trays into machine the labeled end must be toward the front of the machine so the screen crosspieces are centered directly above the ball tray crosspieces.

Install spring latch assembly. A 3/16” hole must be drilled through the shoe sides in the location shown for eyebolt. #10 x 1-3/4” long screws are provided for the latch pins. Both eyebolt and latch pin are located by the dimension shown from the front edge of the ball tray.

Remove wood crosspieces at front of both number three and number five screens. Slide remainder of trays into place and install spring latches as described above. Please note that the spring latches for number one locate closer to the front then the rest.

Place four rubber balls in each partition of each tray. This can be done before sliding trays into position, however, take care that balls don’t become misplaced when sliding tray into position. The installation is complete at this point and the screens can be reinstalled in the machine as normal. There is a pair of new thinner screen rails provided to help in the removal of screens. When changing screens slide these ½” x 1 ½” wooden rails between the ball trays and the screens.

INSTRUCTIONS TO REPLACE ½” THROW ECCENTRIC SLEEVES WITH 5/8” THROW SLEEVES

Note: this change is required when converting brush systems to rubber ball screen-cleaning system.

Refer to attached parts plates number 63-6 “Eccentric and Countershaft Assemblies”. Eccentric sleeves, cat. No. 15 are fastened to inner “race” of an eccentric bearing, cat. No. 16 with two set screws. One set screw is tightened into a countersink “spot” drilled into the sleeve.

To replace sleeves, loosen the set screws in the bearings and the set screws in each end of the sleeve, which tighten down onto the square key in the eccentric shaft, cat. No. 362. Sleeve will then slide out of bearing with “spot” described above. Penetrating oil may be required on older machines.

The shaft will have to be removed from the ball bearing pillow blocks, cat. No.17. In some cases, it may be easier to remove eccentric shaft with the bearings and eccentric assemblies attached. To do this, unbolt the eccentric arm, cat. No. 198, from the shoe and eccentric housing, cat. No. 13 (the shoe is the shaking part of the machine which holds the screens). Then unbolt the pillow block, cat. No. 17, from the machine. After removing any belt or chain drives from the end of the eccentric shaft, remove it as a complete assembly from the machine.

Note; if the eccentric arms are removed from the shoe, be sure to identify their positions. It is important to put them back in order. Failure to do this could result in their poor fit and failure, causing excessive vibration in the machine.

TO REMOVE THE SCREEN TAPPERS:

There are two separate taper systems on the cleaner. One set drives the tapers on two and four screens, the other three and five. The drives and all the linkage are on the left-hand side of your machine and are shown on snapshots three and four. Trip sprocket “A” drives two and four, trip sprocket “B” drives three and four. The trip sprocket “A” drives directly to the rear taper on four screen and them this rear rod is connected to the other rods for this drive by connecting links marked #1, 2, and 3. Number two link is inside the frame, between the frame and the shoe.

The links for the drive on three and five screens are marked #4, 5, and 6. On the right hand side of the machine, shown in snapshot #5, you will see marked the Taper Locking Levers, which lock each set off the screens if they are not needed for certain cleaning operations or for changing screens, at which time they will be locked off the screens.

Remove all the bearing collars or levers that are right next to the bearings to act as collars, on the right hand side of the machine. This side has the locking levers.

Loosen all the taper arms from the shafts. Each arm is fastened to the taper shafts (1” dia.) By a set screw this is spotted in place. In other words, the point of the set screw is seated in a cone shaped hole drilled in each shaft. Before removing any of the shafts, it would be well to mark them, as well as each taper arm, in the following manner: number two front, number two rear, number three front, number three rear, etc., which will designate the screen it goes on and whether it is the front taper or the rear taper. Mark each connecting link 1,2,3, for the 1 set and 4,5, and 6 for the other set. Leave as may parts connected to the shafts. The drive sprockets A and B can be left in place bolted to the frame side.

REMOVING THE BRUSH TRACKS:

There are two 1” square tracks at each screen position and they must be taken out and re-assembled in the original position, so mark each one on the end or some convenient place and also put a mark on the 2” side channel just below where the track located for reference. There is a slotted angle iron bracket on each end of the tracks. This bracket is bolted to the 1” leg of the side channel. Do not unbolt the brackets from the 2” side channels. At each end of the square tracks, you will notice what we call a “V-block” which fits between the track and the slotted angle bracket. Mark a scribe line across the V-block and the slotted bracket as a

reference mark to help in adjusting the brushes at re-assembly time. If the V-block s are set to this line again, the brushes should be adjusted properly.

After marking the tracks for identification and scribing the lines mentioned above, unbolt the tracks form t he angle brackets and remove them from the machine.

Unbolt the eccentric arms form the top shoe. Do not unbolt these wood arms from the eccentric castings and bearings on the eccentric shaft.

To remove the top shoe from the frame, it will be necessary now to unbolt the four shoe hanger castings. There are two castings on each side of the shoe. It would be well to mark each one in some way to get them back in their original position when re-assembling. Leave the steel straps bolted to the frame at the top. Just unbolt the castings from the shoe and the straps. Block up under the shoe before loosening the bolts so it will not settle. Remove any spout extensions on the delivery side of the machine. It may be necessary to remove the top frame crosspieces to lift the top shoe out of the frame.

To remove the bottom shoe, follow the same general procedure as with the top shoe. Before removing the bottom shoe, take off the eccentric shaft and the countershaft. To do this, note that each bearing has been marked with a notch exactly on center between the bolt holes and a corresponding notch has been put n the frame. This is to line up the bearings properly when the machine is first assembled here at the factory. You can unbolt the bearings from the frame, leaving all the pulleys and eccentric arms in place, which will simplify re-assembly. Mark the ends of the tracks before taking them out, mark the shoe hanger castings and unbolt the eccentric arms from the shoe. Remove any spout extensions and lift out the shoe. Be careful not to jam any of the spouts that project below the shoes. If any of them are jammed, however, be sure to straighten them before putting the shoes back in the frame.

In addition, on the bottom shoe at the rear end, you will notice a rubber covered roll. This is the airseal roll. To remove this, unscrew the wood cleats at the very end of the shoe side panels and by unbolting the bearings from the frame, this roll and shaft can be removed. Scribe a line at the high end of the bearing housings as a reference for re-location. This bearing will not have a reference notch such as the eccentric shaft and countershaft.

TAKING THE FRAME APART. First, remove the frame crossmember at he lower front end of the frame. This crossmember has two corner braces, which are bolted to the frame sides. Unbolt the corner races from the side, not the crossmember. Next, remove the entire crosshead drive as one unit. To do this, loosen the collars on the 1” diameter crosshead side shaft, loosen the bevel gear and pull the shaft out of the bearings. It will be well to leave these bearings in their present locations, as it will help keep the bevel gears lined up when putting the machine back together.

You will notice that the entire crosshead unit is bolted to the frame sides. By unbolting, it will come out as one piece, with all the side chains attached to the swivel plate. Now remove the rest of the frame crossmembers, marking them for reference.

TO RE-ASSEMBLE THE CLEANER:

After the frame sides are carried into the building, clear away an area for assembly. If you can not assemble the machine in the exact location where the cleaner will set, be sure to have the front end of the machine in the proper direction so the cleaner will not have to be turned end for end when it is done.

After the frame is assembled, you can gain sufficient room at the front of the machine to install the shoes if you will move the frame to one of the doors and let the rear corner of the frame stick out the door. When the bottom shoe is in place, the frame can be moved back onto the floor. There should be plenty of room to get the top shoe in the frame, but as mentioned above, it might be necessary to let one end of the frame stick out the door to get in the bottom shoe.

ASSEMBLING THE FRAME:

Set the frame up on a level spot on the floor. Attach the crossmembers but do not bolt tightly, until you have checked the frame across corners at the bottom and across the front and rear ends to make sure it is square. If the frame is not squared up, the parts will not fir properly. Also shim up under the frame at any corner that is low so the frame is setting flat and level on the floor for assembly. After all the crossmembers are bolted tightly in place, the crosshead can be installed again. Also, install the crosshead side shaft in the bearings. Install the bevel gear on the end of the side shaft and mesh it with the gear on the crosshead. The teeth must fit close, but not so tight that they bind. A slight amount of slack is permissible, just so you can feel it. Be sure to tighten the set screws on the side shaft bearing collars and the bevel gear.

After the frame has been assembled, the bottom shoe can be put in place. When it is in the frame, attach the shoe hanger castings to the shoe and bolt them. Then attach the castings to the hanger straps with the proper bolts. The shoe should be spaced equal on both sides in the frame with the 3” wood cleat front end of the frame side. Block up under the shoe is necessary to hold it while bolting in place. Do not force any of the hanger straps. If the frame is squared properly and the shoe set in place carefully, all the hanger straps should fit properly.

Next, install the rubber covered airseal roll, which is located at the rear end of the bottomshoe. Mount the eccentric shaft to the frame, making sure the bearing notches line up as before and bolt the eccentric arms to the bottom shoe. Insert the 1” square brush tracks for the bottom shoe, making sure each one is in the original location. Bolt them to the slotted angle brackets on the 2” side channels and set them to the scribe marks made previously before taking them off. Feed the small side roller chains for the four and five screens up through the proper sprockets and connect them with the toggle pin castings. Do not tighten the one turnbuckle yet that you had to loosen when taking apart. Install the brush carriages and connect to the chains with the toggle pin.

Next, install the countershaft. After the countershaft is installed, you can set the top shoe in place in the same manner as the bottom shoe, making sure the hanger castings and straps are properly lined up. Actually, the hanger straps are plumbed when the machine is newly assembled, so you can check this to make sure the machine is properly leveled and the shoes are setting ok.

After the top shoe is in place, bolt the top shoe eccentric arms. Install the 1” square tracks for the top shoe screens, bring up the side roller chains and connect with the toggle pin castings. Install the brush carriages and connect them with the toggle pins.

After all the carriages are connected, the side chains will be very loose. Tighten the turnbuckles on the left until the chains are snug but not to tight. There should still be a little looseness in the chains at all times. Insert the screens. Any screens will be ok for checking the chains. Rotate the large roller chain sprocket on the brush drive crosshead side shaft until the brushes come clear over to the left-hand side. If the chains are too tight, the brushes will

pull against the side of the shoe, which means the chains should be loosened. You will notice on the crosshead, that when the brushes are clear over to the left side of the shoe, the swivel plate is clear over to the right side of the double strand roller chains on the crosshead. As this plate is carried around the sprockets, which will reverse its direction of movement, the brushes must at this same time be clear to the left side of the shoe. Adjust the turnbuckle accordingly (left hand turnbuckles). Now rotate the large sprocket on the side shaft until the swivel plate is clear over to the left side of the crosshead chains and is just turning around the left end sprockets. At this same time, the brushes have moved to the right side of the shoes and should be snug against the screen frames.

These are the two major points to check, if the brushes get to the side of the shoe before the swivel plate turns around the sprockets, the further movement of the plate will pull the brushes into the sides of the shoes and will force them out of line momentarily until the plate has made the turn around the ends of the sprockets. Therefore, the chains should never be tightened so much that this occurs. Always have the plate just halfway around the ends of the crosshead sprockets (which are the maximum point of travel) when checking the tightness of the chains.

After the chains have closely adjusted, turn the large side shaft sprocket until the carriages have moved from one side to the other and back again. At each end of travel, check the tightness in the chains. After final adjustment has been made, you will find that the chains not doing the pulling will run a little slack until the plate gets past the end of travel and reverses direction so these slack chains do the pulling.

You can now set the hopper, upper air flue spout top airflue and fans back in place. Note: be sure to set the upper airflue spout in place against the top shoe before putting the upper airflue and fans in place. Line up all the bearings with the bolt holes, attach the hopper to the airflue with the wood screws, connect the fan control rods and tighten bearing collars, set screws and bolts.

Set the lower airflue in place. Before fastening down, notice that at the low end you will find a fubber strip. This strip sets just above the airseal roll and when setting the airflue in place, be sure to reach in from the side of the machine and hold this strip so it lays over the top of the rubber roll. Hook up the springs at each end of the airseal gate to the lower airflue side panels and bolt the airflue in place. Just as a check on the location, the airflue should be spaced equally between the side panels of the shoes. This is not always exactly possible, of course, but the airflue should not be rubbing against the shoe at any point. If it dies press against one of the shoe sides, adjust it slightly as needed to make sure it is clear and tighten the airflue brackets.

Now, check the upper airflue spout again to make sure the top edge of the spout is not rubbing against the bottom of the airflue. There should be about 1/8” to 3/16” clearance here, as the spout shakes with the shoe, while the airflue is solid.

To install the tapers the screens must be in the machine. Install the screens that have the thin wood slats attached. The tapers hit on the rubber pad on each slat. Tighten each taper are so the set screws seats in the spot on each 1” taper rod. Do this to al the arms. Connect the side links again, making sure the set screws all seat in the spots on the shafts. With the taper

weights resting on the slats, the trip sprocket fingers will contact the trip lever and lift them off the screen to give the tapping action. It should not be necessary to adjust the amount of lift from the original setting. Wrap the chains around the sprockets and tighten the idlers. Install the drive chains and belts again. After the tapers are installed, lock them off the screens with the taper licks on the right hand side of the machine. When hooking up the motor, be sure it is turning in the proper rotation. Do not unlock the taper until you have the motor connected and have checked it for the proper rotation, as considerable damage will occur to the tapers if the shafts are turning in the wrong direction.

Turn the hand cranks on the fan control rods and check the damper in each fan to make sure it swings through the entire movement from closed to wide open. When installing the air trunks, be sure there are no bolts sticking inside the fans near the dampers. A bolt projecting inside can block the movement of the damper and will not give you control or adjustment of the air.

If the machine is moved around after it has been assembled, before bolting to the floor check it for level. It is very important that the machine be level, especially cross wise, so the grain does not tend to move to one side of the screens, Notice that he V-belt driving the hopper shaft is a crossed belt.

Screw the lower airflue spout extension (with the gate) to the bottom shoe as shown by tags attached to the shoe. Also, install the other extensions.

‘We realize these instructions are lengthy, but hope they enable you to get the machine inside of your building and re-assembled without difficulty.

Paint Specifications

To make it easy to touch up the paint on our equipment and paint accessories to match, we have prepared the following instructions.

Sherwin Williams developed the following formulas:

Blue: REX #F77V100 Yellow: REX #F77Y15 Description – Quick Dry Sales #5010-04659

Clear (Base) Description – Quick Dry OSHA Yellow

5-gallon formula (18.9 liters) PG – 7 oz. 19/32 PB – 19 oz. 10/32 BU – 5 oz. 8/32 TW – 19 oz. 27/32 LB – 25/32

The paint should be easily obtained at any Sherwin Williams store by referring to the above-mentioned formula.

If you have any questions, please contact us.

Common Metric Conversions

Weight

Metric ton = 2,205 lbs Short ton = .9072 metric tons Kilogram = 2.2 lbs Pound = .45 kilograms Metric ton = 40 bu @ 56 lbs/bu Bushel 25.4 kg @ 56 lbs/bu Metric ton = 49 bu @ 45 lbs/bu Bushel 20.4 kg @ 45 lbs/bu Metric ton = 79 bu @ 28 lbs/bu Bushel 12.7 kg @ 28 lbs/bu Quintal = 100 units of measure (220 lbs)

Length

Meter = 3.28 ft Foot = .3 meters Meter = 39.37 inches Inch = 2.54 centimeters Centimeter = .39 inches Mile = 1.609 kilometers Millimeter = .039 inches Inch = 25.4 millimeters

Volume

Cubic meter = 35.31 cubic ft Cubic foot = .28 cubic meter Cubic meter = 61,020 cubic inches Cubic foot = 1,728 cubic inches Liter = .2642 gallons Cubic foot = 28.32 liters Barrel (rice) = 3.45 bushels Bushel = .035 cubic meters Gallons = 3.785 liters

Density per Unit Volume

Kg/m3 = .0624 lbs/ft3 Lb/ft3 = 16.02 kg/m3 Gram/cm3 = 62.43 Corn (56 lbs/bu) 45 lbs/ft3 = 720.90 kg/m3 Rice (45 lbs/bu) 36 lbs/ft3 = 576.72 kg/m3

Area

Hectare = 2.5 acres Acre = .4 hectares Square km = .3861 sq mile Square ft = .093 sq meters Square cm = .155 sq in. Square meter = 10.76 sq ft

Heat

Kilogram calorie = 3,969 BTU BTU = .25 kilogram calorie

Force

Lb/sq ft = 4.882 kg/sq meter kW = HP/1.341 Lb ft = 1.356 Newton meter N = .7376 lb ft

Velocity

Ft/min = .0183 km/hr Ft/min = .3048 meters/min Mile/hr = 1.609 km/hr 196.8 x meters/sec = fpm

Temperature

C = (F - 32) / 1.8 F = 1.8 C + 32 (BTU per lb (H2O removed)) / 1.8 = Kcal per kg

Air Volume

Ft3/min = .59 m3/hr

Pressure

1 bar = 14.3 psi

Converting Bushels per Hour (BPH) to Tons

Tons/hr = (BPH x product weight (per bushel)) / 2205

Fluids

Fl oz = 29.6 cc

Other – Screen Perforations

mm = #/64th’s x .4 #/64th’s = 2.52 x mm

Maintenance

Like all equipment, Crippen cleaners will require periodic maintenance. We have designed our equipment with this in mind. Wear items are easily accessible and routine maintenance can be performed with little loss of production time.

Belts

Belts should be checked periodically for wear or cracks. If a belt begins to show signs of wear, a replacement should be ordered and kept in stock.

Variable Speed Sheaves

Variable speed sheaves should be adjusted through their entire range on a weekly basis; this keeps them clean and in good working order. The threaded rod mechanisms will also be cleaned as the sheaves are cycled. This will keep the parts moving freely and assures ease of later adjustments.

Bearings

All bearings are a premium grade sealed type. They are greased before installation, but will require prudent greasing over their working life. We have found that over-greasing causes more failures than under-greasing; therefore, we recommend that bearings be greased once a year or every 1000 hours of operation.

If you suspect a bearing is failing, listen for unusual noise (knocking) during operation and feel the bearing for excess heat buildup immediately after shutting down and locking out the start/stop station. If the bearing is abnormally hot, then replacement is recommended as soon as possible.

Bolts

Check that the bolts on the eccentric drive arms and shoe hanger straps are securely fastened on a semi-annual basis.

Note: Many of the above components are high wear items and will require periodic replacement. Other components generally will not require replacement unless they are subjected to above normal operating stress.

Safety

Before attempting to service or internally inspect the machine, lock out the start/stop station so that only the maintenance personnel have control of the machine.

Safety guards are provided with the machine to protect the operators and maintenance personnel from injury. Enclosures over belts, pulleys, and other moving parts should remain on the machine, unless service personnel are performing maintenance.

Lubrication Requirements

The main bearings on the machine are lubricated at the factory for the life of the bearing. However, it is permissible to add lubricant depending on how the machine is being used. Sodium-based greases are normally preferred for general purpose bearing lubrication. Excessive quantities of grease cause churning. This results in excessive temperatures and may cause a premature failure of the bearing.

The bearing housing should be kept approximately ϑ to ½ full. Some bearing housing are supplied without a standard grease fitting to provide for re-lubrication.

A few other areas on the machine need regular attention. The various cranks, knobs, and other controls have a threaded part that should be kept oiled to keep them operating smoothly.

Re-lubrication intervals are very difficult to determine and vary greatly, depending on the machine's use and its environment. If plant practice or experience with similar applications is not available, consult your lubricant supplier.

Common maintenance practice must be followed to obtain the maximum life of any machine. There are many factors which affect the frequency of re-lubrication, such as a dusty environment and the length and frequency of machine use. Common practice in the seed and grain industries includes giving the main bearings on the machine a couple of pumps with a standard grease gun twice a year. Because of the wide range of machine applications, we are only able to give general instructions. Please consult with the Engineering Department at Crippen Manufacturing Company for any specific questions regarding operation and maintenance.

Preventative Maintenance Schedule

Daily

• Check for any audible or visible signs of rubbing or vibration that should not be present or that have not been observed previously

• Check the air valves and chambers for any obstructions

Weekly

• Check bearings after operation for heat buildup, seal leakage (greasing), and excessive movement or sloppiness

• Check bolts on the eccentric drive arms and shoe hanger straps • Check bolts and chain tensions

Quarterly

• Check screens and collection pans for wear • Check bearings for grease • Lubricate the air control valve linkage • Check motor amperage draw

Semi-Annual

• Check feed roll, contact plates, rubber balls, and all moving parts for wear • Re-check parts inventory to be certain all essential components on hand for

continuous operation

Parts Catalog

When ordering parts for Crippen cleaners, specify:

� Machine model number � Serial number of machine � Catalog number of part � Part name � Quantity

Pulley, Sheaves, Belting

When ordering a sheave (V-pulley) for a V-belt drive, send us the number on the sheave, as most sheaves are either stamped or embossed with a part number. Also, specify the exact outside diameter and size of the bore. To order a V-belt, specify the same number marked on the belt or specify for which drive the belt is used.

When ordering a pulley for flat belt drives, specify pulley outside diameter, width of face, and the bore.

To order flat belting, specify the belt width and length required.

Spouts, Pans

When order spouts, specify if the spout is at the end of a screen or in the pan immediately below the screen, screen location number in machine (highest screen is #1), and if spout delivers to right or left side of the machine.

For Model Century Pro 588-RH, Serial No. 65843-396

(1) spout for end of screen #2 - or -

(1) spout in pan immediately below screen #3

When ordering a pan, specify overall width and length of the metal, machine model, and serial number.

Note: right or left hand is determined when standing at the front of the machine, facing the end where the screens are changed.