Installation Instructions SUPERCHARGER · 2017. 12. 14. · 1.1 With the engine running, raise the hood and locate the main under hood fuse box by the fend-er well near the firewall

INSTALLATION TIME IN AS LITTLE AS 4 HOURSFOR EXPERIENCED MECHANICS, AROUND 5TO 6 HOURS FOR “OCCASIONAL” MECHAN-ICS.

TOOLS REQUIRED: 3/8” Drive Socket set w/17mm, 14mm, 13mm, 12mm, 10mm & 8mm sock-ets; Deep sockets (14mm or 9/16”, 10mm):Phillips and Standard screwdriver, 10mm, 12mm,and 17mm open end wrench; 5mm Allen wrenchwith a 3/8” drive; paper clip; a box to store yourOLD PARTS in. A 1/4” drive socket set will be use-ful with some of the tight working areas. A timinglight will be needed to set the ignition timing.

A NOTE ON ADDING A SUPERCHARGER TOYOUR MIATAThis system has been carefully designed withattention to every detail utilizing over 1000 hoursof engineering and testing. Each component ofthis system has been carefully designed to matchthe quality of the automobile you purchased fromMazda. The only added maintenance item foryour Miata will be an occasional belt tension checkfor the Supercharger drive. As for your engine’slife, a Miata engine in good condition will see littlereduction in useful life with the addition of this sys-tem. However, it is your responsibility to insurethat your engine is in good condition before youinstall this system. Putting boost on a tired enginewill lead to catastrophe. If your car has under80,000 miles on it and has had the oil changed

regularly (every 3000 miles or so), you shouldhave no trouble. If in doubt, check your engine’scompression. You should have at least 135psi ofcompression in each cylinder with no more than a10% variance between any two cylinders or with a10% increase in any cylinder after a tablespoon ofoil is poured in. Your cooling system should be upto par (50/50 mix of water and new coolant).Basically, if you have a good engine, it will be veryhappy with this supercharger.

BEFORE INSTALLING THIS SYSTEM:A. Drive your fuel tank empty and refill with 92Octane major brand gasoline. If you can only find91 Octane, see step #3 under “Adjustments” at theend of these instructions. B. Change your oil and filter. Use synthetic oil ifpossible (Mobil 1 or similar, see notes at end ofinstructions).C. Change your spark plugs if they have morethan 10,000 miles on them. We suggest a set ofslightly cooler plugs (#971-075) to prevent detona-tion. Gap these plugs at 0.038 inches. Use anti-seize compound on the threads. Splitfire sparkplugs are not recommended for boosted enginesdue to their higher heat range.D. Change your fuel filter if it has more than20,000 miles on it. This is critical.

Installation InstructionsSUPERCHARGER

‘90-’93 Mazda Miata

Part# 999-000, 999-005, 999-010, 999-015

440 Rutherford St. P.O. Box 847 Goleta, CA 93117 1-888-888-4079 • FAX 805-692-2523 • www.jacksonracing.com

999-000 -1- Revised 05/02

BEGINNING THE INSTALLATION1.0 DISASSEMBLY1.1 With the engine running, raise the hood andlocate the main under hood fuse box by the fend-er well near the firewall on the passenger side ofthe engine compartment. Lift the main fuse boxcover and locate the relay labeled “FUEL INJ”.While the engine is running, remove the “FUELINJ” relay. The engine will stop running. Turnyour ignition key off. Store the “FUEL INJ” relayin a safe place until you are finished with theinstallation. Release the pressure in your fueltank by removing your gas cap momentarily andthen re-installing.

1.2 Release the airflow meter harness 7-pin con-nector by lifting the small wire clip that runsaround the rectangular base of the connector.Remove the stock air flow meter, air filter box andintake snorkel. Remove the air flow meter fromthe air box. Store the air box, filter, and snorkelaway. Move the air flow meter to a safe place ona worktable.

1.3 Remove the molded rubber elbow and hardplastic tube that lead from the throttle body to theairflow meter. If you have cruise control, you willalso have to remove the vacuum line from theintake manifold nipple and from the points whereit attaches to the hard plastic intake tube.

Remove the cruise control vacuum line from thecruise actuator as well and save it for use in step#4.4 later.

1.4 Remove the chrome crankcase vent pipe thatis attached to the front of the cam cover and therubber hose that leads into the cam cover (Figure1.4). These can be stored away. However, findthe small restrictor inside the rubber hose thatran from the cam cover to the chrome tubing. Itcan be felt as a lump in the straight section of thehose near the chrome tube end. Persuade it outby gently clamping the hose with a pair of pliersjust behind the “lump”. Save this restrictor forstep #7.8. Re-install the chrome bolts that heldthe tubing in place. Store the chrome tube andMazda hoses away.

1.5 Locate the new engine thermostat from yoursupercharger kit. Installing the thermostat is aseasy as it looks - it is right there on the front ofthe engine where the top radiator hose goes intothe thermostat-housing cap. Remove the twobolts holding the cover and gently lift it off. Youcan leave the radiator hose attached to the cover.Place your new thermostat (spring end down)into the thermostat base. Reinstall the cover witha new gasket (provided). Make sure the old gas-ket material is completely off of both mating sur-faces. Remember to remove the new thermostatgasket’s white protective paper to expose an

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Supercharger Installation Instructions

2. Stock Air Filter Box3. Air Flow 4. Stock Plastic / Rubber Cross Over5. ICS Valve (Idle Air Control)6. Throttle Body Gasket7. Throttle Cable8. Throttle Body

adhesive layer to assist in assembly. You can dothis entire procedure without losing too muchcoolant. There is no need to drain your coolingsystem. Simply place some old newspapers onthe floor to catch the pint of coolant that will spill.Make sure to top off your coolant tank once theengine is warm. If your coolant is over two yearsold, you must change it (see page 7-15 of yourowner’s manual). Your supercharged car will beusing 100% of your cooling system and it mustbe up to the task.

2.0 THROTTLE BODY2.1 Remove the throttle body (FIGURE 1.4) byreleasing the two electrical connectors (one hasa spring wire, one has a plastic lever clip), thetwo small coolant hoses on either side of thelower Idle Control System (ICS) valve, and thefour bolts.TIP: THE SPRING HOSE CLAMPS FROMMAZDA ARE BEST REMOVED BY APPROACH-ING FROM THE SIDE WITH NEEDLE NOSEPLIERS. GRASP ALL THREE TANGS AT ONCEAND COMPRESS THEM TOGETHER. THIS ISEASIER TO DO WITH THE THROTTLE BODYALREADY LOOSE FROM THE INTAKE MANI-FOLD.Plug the coolant hoses with a screwdriver, golftee, or pencil to prevent the leakage of coolant(OR - keep the hose ends above the radiator caplevel to prevent leakage). Release the throttle

cable from the throttle shaft spool. Release theThrottle Position Switch harness by lifting thesmall wire clip that runs around the rectangularbase of the connector. If the throttle body gaskettears as you remove it, you will need to clean offthe old gasket from both surfaces, the throttlebody and the intake manifold. Carefully use aknife or the backside of a hacksaw blade toscrape the mounting surfaces clean. DO NOTSCRATCH OR MAR THEMOUNTING SURFACES IN ANY WAY.

2.2 Moving to a worktable, remove the idle aircontrol (ICS) valve from the bottom of the throttlebody by removing the three Phillips head screws.Use a good quality screwdriver and be carefulnot to strip the Phillips head screws. If you can-not loosen a screw with the screwdriver, use asmall set of pliers from the side. Carefully sepa-rate the two units making sure not to tear the rub-ber gland gasket. The rubber gland gasket willwant to stay with the Mazda throttle body care-fully pick it out with a flat blade screwdriver andsave it for the next step.

2.3 Take the Idle Air Manifold (dummy throttlebody) from your supercharger kit and install theMazda idle air control valve (ICS) from step 2.2 inthe appropriate place. Use the rubber gland gas-ket from the Mazda throttle body in this position.Re-use the three Mazda Phillips screws. Use nosealant, just the rubber gasket.


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Figure 1.5

Gasket, Replace

2.4 Install the Dummy Throttle Body and ICSvalve back onto the intake manifold in the sameposition as the standard throttle body on theintake manifold. Use the 1104 sealant providedif the original gasket was not salvaged.Reconnect the coolant hoses to the idle controlvalve as you found them. Use hardware suppliedas necessary.

2.5 Reconnect the idle control valve electricalconnector.

2.6 Take the Throttle Position Switch (TPS)extension wire (3 conductor with sheathing) fromyour kit and use it to extend your factory TPS har-ness. We have provided six heat shrink buttcrimp connectors to use for each wire junctionyou will first have to cut the three pin connectoroff of the end of the Mazda TPS harness. Cut atleast 3 inches back from the end of the plasticconnector to give yourself enough room to workwith. You will be splicing in the Jackson Racingsupplied extender, matching color to color. Ourextender has three color-coded wires that matchthe colors of the Mazda harness. Strip a smallsection from each wire’s end on the harnessextender and connect it to the appropriate colorwire (red conductor to red Mazda wire, etc.). Usethe heat shrink butt connectors to secure eachsplice. Crimp with an appropriate tool or pliers.Use a heat gun or similar to shrink the butt con-nector’s protective tubing over the crimped con-nector. We do not recommend the use of openflame to shrink the tubing. Wrap the entire group-ing of three connectors with electrical tape atboth ends to protect from moisture and dirt.

2.7 Locate the ICS blanking plate and take it overto your Mazda throttle body. You will use a thinlayer of sealant between the blanking plate andthe Mazda throttle body. Install this blanking plateonto your Mazda throttle body using the threePhillips head screws supplied in the kit.

3.0 BELT DRIVES3.1 NOTE: CARS WITH POWER STEERING:

You will be re-arranging your power steeringbracket components per figure 3.2. Referring tofigure 3.1, remove the slot bracket and pillowblock by removing bolts “A”, “C”, and “D”. Takethe flat idler pulley bracket from your kit and trialfit it to the assembly per figure 3.2. You will bemoving the pillow block and bolt “D” to behind thepower steering stamped steel bracket. Thismakes room for the flat idler pulley bracket. Theupper support for the repositioned long bolt “D”comes from a relocated Mazda slot bracket. Itbecomes an extension bracket for bolt “D”. Theslot bracket is attached to the stamped steelpower steering bracket using a new bolt/wash-er/nut assembly supplied in your kit. Make sureto point this bolt with its head nearest the nylonidler pulley and that this bolt goes through theslot. The forward hole of the repositioned slotbracket will not be used. The rearward hole isnow used for the relocated “D” bolt, which will beused to tighten your drive belt. Note: The powersteering pump must be in its lowest position forthis procedure.


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3.2 When you are done with your trial fitting of theflat idler pulley bracket, take this flat bracket to aworkbench and install the two nylon idler pulleysusing the spacers, bolts and nyloc nuts provided.Make sure that the bolts point toward the front ofthe car.

3.3 Secure the idler pulleys firmly to the flatbracket. Proceed to install the idler pulleyassembly onto the car per the procedure prac-ticed during the trial fitting.The final assembly (minus the pulleys) shouldlook like figure 3.3.

VERY IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE THAT THEDRIVER’S SIDE IDLER PULLEY IS FREE TOSPIN. THE PINCH BOLT THAT YOU INSTALLTHROUGH THE PILLOW BLOCK FROM THEREAR CAN INTERFERE WITH THE BACKSIDEOF THE IDLER IF INSTALLED INCORRECTLY(i.e. leaving out the thick washer under the bolt’shead). TEST THE ASSEMBLY BY TIGHTENINGTHE PINCH BOLT FULLY AND SPINNING THEIDLER PULLEY. USE ADDITIONAL WASHERSUNDER THE PINCH BOLT’S HEAD IF NECES-SARY.VERY IMPORTANT: Check the clearance


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between the small coolant hose that runs fromthe base of the thermostat housing and the pas-senger side plastic idler pulley (see figure 8.1). Ifthe clearance is less than 1/2 inch between thehose and the pulley, trim three quarters of an inchof length off of the thermostat end of the smallhose. Reinstall the hose, reusing the springclamp. By removing a small piece of the hoseend, the hose will be pulled away from the idlerpulley, avoiding any damage during operation.This is a critical area for attention since a hosefailure could cause severe engine damage. Notall cars need this modification.

3.4 POWER STEERING CARS: Spin the powersteering pump pulley until the nut on the mainpump mounting bolt is visible. Insert a socketwrench (deep 14mm) here and hold the rear hexhead with a 14mm box wrench. Remove the nutand the long bolt (item “B” in figure 3.1). The boltwill retract rearward underneath the exhaustmanifold.

3.5 Pick the flat steel supercharger bracket fromthe kit and slip the long power steering pumpmounting bolt through the non-slotted end.Reinstall the power steering pump bolt and nutwith the flat bracket pinched between the bolthead and the cast power steering pump bracket

that is on the engine. When finished, rotate thepower steering pump as far down as possible(the pulley will touch the AC compressor pulley ifso equipped). This will allow room for the super-charger to be installed and for the belt to slip overthe pulleys.

3.6 NON POWER STEERING CARS: Locateyour lower bracket assembly from the kit. Theend with the small 90-degree bracket mounts tothe idler bracket (standard on AC equipped cars)or to new idler bracket (supplied with kit for non-AC, non-PS cars). Use the new, longer 10mmbolt provided to attach this bracket to the engine(Review figure 3.4 for bolt location).


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4.0 FUEL MANAGEMENT4.1 Locate the Mazda fuel pressure regulator atthe firewall end of the fuel injector rail. There isa short vacuum hose running to it that initiates onthe top rear of the intake manifold. Follow the fuelhose that runs from the bottom of the Mazdapressure regulator to the metal fuel pipe on thepassenger side of the engine compartment, justnear the intake manifold. It will have a white paintmark on it. This is the fuel return hose. Removethe fuel return hose from the metal fuel pipeattached to the chassis, being careful not to spillany fuel. Make sure that you have released thepressure in your gas tank by removing your gascap first.

4.2 Locate your Auxiliary Fuel PressureRegulator (AFPR) from the kit.

4.4 Install the Air/Fuel Regulator by first removingthe cylindrical black plastic evaporative canisteron the right side of the engine compartment fromits vertical mounting brace. This is performed by

simply sliding the canister upward to remove it.There is a small hole in the brace through whichwill pass a 6 mm bolt with a 10mm head to fas-ten the mounting clamp of the Air/Fuel Regulator.Mount the AFR to the brace after connecting thefuel lines. Locate the flexible fuel line attached tothe REAR (towards the windshield) of the metalfuel rail that connects the Fuel injectors. Followthis fuel line to the rigid pipe just below the Evap.cannister; this pipe will be marked with either awhite spot or stripe. Disconnect the flexible fuelline from the rigid pipe and connect it to the off-set brass barb on the bottom of the A/F regulator.Connect a new piece of fuel line to the remainingcenter brass barb and to the rigid pipe with thewhite mark, this can be achieved by making alarge gentle curve between the two connections.Ensure that there are no kinks to obstruct fuelflow in any of these lines. Reinstall the Evap.Canister by sliding it back on it’s mounting brace.

5.0 SUPERCHARGER PREPARATION5.1 Working on a table, set the supercharger unit


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in a position easy to work with. Be very carefulnot to bump the supercharger pulley in any wayas it can easily damage the front bearing. Checkoutlet manifold for debris and clean it out if nec-essary. Install the outlet manifold as shown in fig-ure 5.1 using the bolts from kit bag #2. Get yourMazda throttle body with the ICS blanking plateas installed in step #2.7 and mount it to thesupercharger using a thin film of the sealant pro-vided and the four bolts (8mm x 40) supplied inthe kit.

5.2 Locate your throttle cable bracket that is bolt-ed to your standard intake manifold and removethe throttle cable by loosening the pinch nuts sur-rounding the cable end on either side of thebracket. Once the nuts are loose, you can pull

the cable out of the bracket - the grommet willdeform and let you do this. Remove the throttlecable bracket by removing the two 10mm head-ed bolts. Unclip the throttle cable from the firewallanchors. Begin re-routing the throttle cable bylooping the end behind the brake master cylinderand laying it along the driver’s side fender well.

5.3 Locate the black plastic Roto-mold inletelbow from your kit. Check elbow for debris and

clean it out if necessary. Youwill be placing the assemblyinto the position shown priorto installing the supercharger.Make sure to install the 2.5” to2.75” reducer hose to the air-flow meter end of this plasticelbow prior to setting it inplace. This will greatly assistin airflow meter installation.Also, install the 2.5” diameterhump hose to the throttle bodyend of this plastic elbow. Usethe clamps provided to securethe hoses to the elbow


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6.0 SUPERCHARGER INSTALLATION6.1 Remove the engine lift eyelet at the front ofthe engine, just above the exhaust manifold byremoving the bolt using a 14mm socket. Usingthe two new flanged headed bolts supplied withyour kit, install these to the two bosses on theside of your cylinder head. Leave at least 1/2” ofthread exposed on each bolt.

6.2 Bring the supercharger over to the engine.Feed the throttle body end into the hump hosealready installed on the black plastic “air flowmeter to throttle body elbow” (make sure to slip afully opened hose clamp over the hose first).Orient the supercharger so that you can slip thelarge “keyholes” in the bracket attached to thesupercharger over the two bolt heads installed instep #6.1. Make sure that the bolts move up theirrespective vertical slots and seat against theupper edge of the horizontal slots in the bracket.Slide the supercharger towards the firewall as faras it will go. Tighten down the two pinch boltsusing an open-end wrench. If you find that thebracket/supercharger assembly collides withyour cam cover vent tube during initial installa-tion, it means you did not leave enough threadsexposed on the two main mounting bolts installedin step #6.1. Retry it with the bolts further out.

6.4 Swing the flat lower bracket up into place infront of the supercharger boss. Locate the smallstamped throttle cable bracket from your kit andthread the new bolt through the throttle cablebracket hole, through the supercharger boss and


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through the flat steel lower bracket. Secure withthe locking nut and bolt supplied. Make sure thatthe head of the bolt is on the throttle bracket sideof the assembly. Leave the power steering pumplong bolt and nut finger tight (14mm heads).

6.6 Route your throttle cable so that it is loopedback toward the firewall, routing the cable justbehind the driver’s side headlamp motor. Installthe cable’s threaded end into the small bracketattached to the underside of the supercharger.Make certain that the cable/grommet is fullynested within the slot (this may require somemuscle - we made it tight so your throttle cablewon’t ever fall out). Open the throttle by hand andinsert the cable end into the throttle spool. Makesure that the cable runs in the center of thegroove of the throttle spool. If it does not, adjustthe throttle cable bracket left or right until it iscentered in the spool’s groove. Have an assis-tant operate the gas pedal multiple times to con-firm that the action is free and easy without bind-ing or interference. Make sure that the cable hasa bit of “sloppy” slack with the gas pedal releasedand that full throttle is available when the gaspedal is fully depressed. If it does not “flop” in theidle position, you will have trouble setting youridle speed. Make sure that the cable is run insuch a way as to allow for engine movement fromside to side.Make very certain that all throttle cable-mounting points are secure - this installation

area is critical for safe operation of your car.This bracketry has been carefully designedfor correct operation. It is your responsibilityas the installer to ensure that it is boltedtogether successfully without binding orinterference.

6.7 Connect the 48+” long vacuum hose (sup-plied) to the hose barb on the supercharger’sbypass manifold. Use the horizontal hose barbthat is pointed rearward toward the car’s firewall.Carefully tie this hose off so it neatly crosses theengine compartment and does not interfere withany critical areas. It can neatly fit into the firewallclips that used to hold your throttle cable. If youfind the line is too long, trim to the proper fit.Connect the other end of the vacuum line to theAFPR, making sure that there is enough slack toallow for engine movement.

7.0 AIRFLOW METER WORK7.1 Locate the new air filter base from your kitand install it to the air flow meter intake port,reusing the Mazda cork gasket and four nuts.The air flow meter is offset toward the top of theair filter base. The seven pin electrical connectoron the airflow meter faces upward.

7.2 Locate the driver’s side shock tower supportand notice the Mazda air filter box mountingbracket (painted body color) on the forward edge.This vertical bracket is held in place by a hori-


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zontal bolt (also painted body color). Remove thebolt using a 10mm socket and store the bracket.On the “flying buttress” closest to the firewall,bend the captive nut tang downward to makeroom for the plastic elbow section using a smallscrewdriver in the hole.

7.3 Bring the air flow meter with the air filter baseinstalled over to the engine bay. Tilting theassembly at an angle, feed the air flow meter out-let into the rubber reducer sleeve already in placeon the plastic elbow (install loose hose clampfirst). The air flow meter assembly fits into thespace just inside the shock tower, between thetwo “flying buttresses” of the shock tower. Theextra hole and boss in the air filter base will lineup with the horizontal hole you just removed the6mm body colored bolt from. Using the longerbolt provided (M6 x 30mm, Allen head), attachthe air filter base/air flow meter assembly to thecar using this bolt (it mounts horizontally, throughthe air filter base, the flying buttress, and into theMazda captive nut on the flying buttress). Usethread-locking compound.

7.4 Make sure that there is no chaffing or rubbinganywhere along the plastic elbow assembly,even though it is a very tight fit. Gently repositionany brake lines that are pressing against theelbow. Make sure all joints and clamps aresecure - a leak in this area will keep your car fromidling correctly. However, never over tighten yourclamps, they may break somewhere down theroad.Use the small length of rubber hose (1/4” dia)that is slit along its length to cover the brake linerunning just above the elbow. This will preventany contact at this point, which may result innoise during operation.

7.5 Locate the 3/4” diameter idle air hose (5’length) from your kit. Attach one end to the ‘large’outside fitting on the plastic elbow downstream ofthe airflow meter (just below the brake mastercylinder once the elbow is in place). Use a clampto secure the hose to the short 3/4” nipple. Run

the hose toward the front of the engine compart-ment, and across the engine side of the radiator.Using the tie wraps provided, attach the rubberhose securely to the radiator fan shroud supportsnear the fan motor(s). Attach the end of the hoseto the idle control (ICS) valve nipple that is aimedtoward the front of the vehicle. Make sure that thehose is attached in a way that will not interferewith either fan operation or with the engine belts.At a point along the length of the hose behind theradiator, cut it and install the check valve sup-plied. Install the check valve with the flanged endtoward the plastic elbow using the small hoseclamps. See figure 7.6. The hose is supplied abit longer than it needs to be. Feel free to trim itslength if you prefer. Be careful not to pinch thehose at any point - doing so will affect your idlestability. You want to have it tie-off in a low posi-tion; the cross over tube will fit above this hose,hiding it in the final installation. On some cars,there might be a slight kink in the hose where itattaches to the plastic elbow nipple. This isacceptable - orient the hose so it remains open.

7.6 Install the air filter element over the air filterbase. Next, collect the two studs and install themwith the element in place. Install the waffle-pat-terned air filter cap and secure using the nutsprovided. Use the tie-wraps provided to secureall components and keep them clear from the beltruns, exhaust manifolds, and especially the throt-tle cable. Re-route the air bag harness over theair filter, keeping it away from the headlight rais-ing motor.IMPORTANT! Secure the air bag harness withtie wraps to keep it from falling into theengine belt system or being pinched in anyway.

7.7 Take the throttle body wiring harness exten-sion as left in step #2.6 and route the body of theharness along the firewall using the bright cadplated firewall clips that originally held the throttlecable on your stock Miata. Tie-wrap the exten-sion harness along the firewall in at least twoplaces. Make sure to leave enough slack on both


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ends to allow the engine to rock side to side with-out pulling on the harness. Contain any extralength in a neat fashion. Connect the female endto the throttle body at the throttle position sensor.

7.8 Find the internal restrictor taken out of yourPCV hose in step #1.4. Locate the 3/8” internaldiameter rubber hose from your kit and press therestrictor into this hose at least one inch. Attachthis hose from the ‘medium’ size fitting on theplastic intake elbow (near the throttle body, point-ing to the engine). Cut to length and attach theother end to the camshaft cover fitting on theexhaust side. Make sure the hose does not kinkat any point and that the restrictor is not left out.If you leave the small restrictor out, the enginewill not idle correctly.

7.9 Locate the 7/32” internal diameter idle bal-ance hose and attach it to the ‘small’ fitting onthe plastic elbow. Attach the other end to theunused vertical vacuum nipple on the bypassblock of the supercharger. Cut the line to theproper length, leaving some slack to allow forengine movement. Make sure the line is notpinched in any way and that it has no possi-bility of interfering with the throttle cable orspool. Use tie wraps as necessary to securethe line. The diagram in figure #7.5 shows thebypass actuator signal line being attached tothe engine side nipple on the bypass manifold.It may be connected to the fender side nipple–either is acceptable. Connect your idle bal-ance line to whichever vertical nipple isunused. The bypass actuator may have twonipples on its “can”. The upper one is used inthis kit. The lower nipple should be left open -it is used in the GM factory installations.

7.10 Reconnect the 7 pin electrical connector tothe air flow meter. Make sure the harness is notpinched at any point.

8.0 FINAL ASSEMBLY

8.1 Install the new 4-rib drive belt. This new beltwill run counter-clockwise from the crankshaft,around the air conditioning compressor, up to thepower steering pump, over to the right nylon idlerpulley, up and over the supercharger pulley, justunder the left nylon idler pulley, and back down tothe crankshaft. Figure 8.1 shows the belt run for

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Figure 7.5

configurations A-D listed below. If you find thebelt to fit too tightly, gently rock the car in fourthgear while pressing the belt onto the pulley usingthe following trick. Put the belt on all pulleysEXCEPT the supercharger pulley, which youshould leave for last. Feed the belt onto thesupercharger pulley in a COUNTERCLOCK-WISE direction; place the car in fourth gear withthe handbrake off (and the ignition keys OUT!).Gently roll the car backwards with your bodyweight while insuring that the belt feeds itselfonto the supercharger pulley the last little bit.Watch out for your fingers. Make sure the beltdoes not roll off of either inside idler pulley whileit feeds onto the supercharger pulley.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOUUSE THE ENGINE STARTER TO “BUMP’ THEBELT ONTO THE SUPERCHARGER. DOINGSO PUTS A HIGH LOAD ON THE SUPER-CHARGER BEARING AND WILL VOID YOURWARRANTY. ALSO, IT IS VERY DANGER-OUS.

Loosen the pinch bolts on your relocated powersteering adjustment assembly (12mm head onpillow block pinch bolt, 14mm head on lower frontbolt). Tighten the long bolt “D” per figure 3.4 toachieve correct belt tension. The longest run ofthe belt should not deflect more than ? of an inchwhen pressed down with around 22 pounds ofthumb pressure. The tension specification is 90pounds. An easy check for proper belt tension isdone by listening to your belts during warm up. Ifturning the steering wheel with the air condition-ing creates a squeal, then the tension is tooloose. In general, only a slight amount of blackdust should appear around the superchargernose when the tension is correct. Heavy dusting

indicates excessive belt wear from a loose belt.Check your tension again after the first 500 miles- it will loosen slightly as the belt wears in.NEVER ATTEMPT TO ADJUST THE BELT WITHTHE ENGINE RUNNING!Re-tighten all bolts and double-check your work.

8.2 Locate the rubber sleeves and the front crossover tube. Check the inside of the cross overtube for debris - clean if necessary. Running arag through the pipe pulled by a strong wire is agood way to do this. Install the cross over tubebetween the idle air manifold (dummy throttlebody now on the intake manifold) and the super-charger discharge manifold. If you find the rubbersleeves hard to slip over their respective land-ings, use some spray light oil such as WD40,which dries off to lubricate the situation. Do notuse gasoline products or pure silicone products.The best technique for installing the cross overtube involves putting the 2.75” diameter rubbersleeve on the supercharger manifold and the 2.5”diameter sleeve on the cross over tube, andattach both with clamps. Then install the crossover tube, starting at the supercharger end first. 8.3 If you have cruise control, route the factoryvacuum line from the cruise control back to itsoriginal position, being careful to tie-wrap it awayfrom the engine belts or radiator fans. Removethe steel spacer from one of the mounting grom-mets on your stock Mazda air box. Use this13/16” long spacer and the 6mm x 25mm hexhead bolt supplied to secure your cruise controlbrace to the air filter base. The bolt will go verti-cally through the cruise control leg brace and intothe small ledge with a threaded hole on the air fil-ter base.

8.4 Once the cross over tube is installed correct-ly, double-check all your pipe and tube connec-tions. There should be no loose ends or connec-tions. Do not over tighten any hose clamps, butensure that they are snug. Double check yoursupercharger belt for correct tension. If the crossover tube is pressing too hard against your upperradiator hose, you can remove 3/4” to 1” from the

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radiator end of the hose to allow for more clear-ance, if you wish. You are now ready to startyour engine.

8.5 First, crank your engine for a few secondswith the “FUEL INJ” relay still removed from step1.1. Confirm that the supercharger belt stays onand that no other parts have been left unattend-ed to.

8.6 Reinstall the “FUEL INJ” relay. Complete step 8.7 before starting your engine.

8.7 CLEARANCESIMPORTANT!MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE AT LEAST 3/4”INCH CLEARANCE BETWEEN ANY ENGINEMOUNTED COMPONENT AND ANY BODYMOUNTED COMPONENT. CRITICAL AREAS:BYPASS ACTUATOR TO BRAKE LINES (VERYCRITICAL - The engine “rocks” strongly to thedriver’s side upon deceleration. If clearance istoo tight, your brake lines can be gently deformedaway from the super-charger bypass actuator byhand. ) SUPERCHARGER OUTLET MANIFOLDTO AIR FILTER (INCLUDING CLAMPS) ALLVACUUM LINES TO THROTTLE SPOOL ANDCABLE

9.0 ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS9.1 SUPERCHARGER BELT DRIVE ADJUST-MENTStart your engine and observe your belt drive. Thebelt should line up with itself as it passes betweenthe two nylon idlers. To put it a different way, theportion of the belt running up to the superchargershould lay almost directly over the portion leavingthe supercharger and heading toward the powersteering pulley. If the upward run is more forward orrearward than the downward run, you need tomove your supercharger slightly forward or back-ward with respect to the crankshaft pulley.Remember the two bolts attaching the supercharg-er’s bracket to the cylinder head from step 6.1? Youcan now access these two bolts with an open-endwrench. Loosen each bolt slightly to allow foradjustment. Start the engine. You can now movethe supercharger assembly slightly forward or rear-ward to correctly align the drive pulleys. The slots

in the Supercharger mounting bracket will allowyou to find the perfect alignment for the belt run.NOTE: Do not attempt to move the supercharg-er with your hands with the engine running.Use an appropriate tool.The best tool to use is a flat blade screwdriverplaced between the forward bracket bolt and thefront inside edge of the bracket. Move the super-charger assembly while watching the belt run theidler pulley. If you have the two bracket bolts tooloose, the supercharger will be out of alignmentfrom side to side. Make sure the two bolts are snugenough to just allow some leveraged movement.Once you have the belt running true in the centerof the idler pulleys, tighten the rear bolt to securethe position. Shut off the engine and tighten theother bracket bolt securely. Recheck all mountingbolts for tightness.9.2 IDLE ADJUSTMENT:Restart your engine. Using the idle airscrew onyour throttle body (now on the back of the super-charger), adjust your idle speed to 950-rpm afterthe engine is warm. This can best be approxi-mated by closing the screw completely (turningclockwise) and backing it out one and a half turnscounter-clockwise. Adjust further to reach the950-rpm value. Next, turn your headlights onBRIGHT and put your heater fan on HIGH. Leavethe air conditioning off. Rev the engine briskly inneutral to at least 2500 rpm and release. Noticeif the idle stops to 900 rpm. If it dips below thislevel and feels like it will stall, then recovers to950 rpm, open the idle airscrew (counterclock-wise rotation) one tenth of a turn at a time until


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most of this “droop” disappears. A slight droop of100 rpm or so is acceptable and normal. Morethan that may create a stalling problem duringdriving.Turn off the lights and heater fan and doublecheck that your idle speed is 950 rpm. If youopen the idle screw too much, you will create toohigh of an idle speed when the lights and fan areturned off. You also may possibly introduce astumble on part throttle to full throttle accelera-tions. In addition, a slow return to idle behaviorwill occur.

9.3 If you have difficulty stabilizing the droopingidle problem, adjust your dashpot to help in slow-ing the throttle’s closing. The factory specificationis that the dashpot tip just begins to touch thethrottle arm at 2500 rpm. Have an assistant holdthe engine at 2500 rpm from the driver’s seat.

The dashpot tip should just be touching the throt-tle arm. Adjust the dashpot so that this contactpoint is at 3000 rpm or more to help with thedrooping idle. Your Miata will drive best with thelowest idle speed possible with only a slightdroop in the idle (checked as described abovewith a warm engine, lights and heater fan onhigh).

9.4 Using a timing light, adjust your ignition tim-ing to 8 degrees before top dead center (BTDC).You have to run a jumper wire (an unfolded paperclip will do nicely) between terminals “GND” and“TEN” of your diagnostics center (located justabove the driver’s side shock absorber). Theignition timing is adjusted using the position sen-sor mounted at the firewall end of the intakecamshaft. A 12mm box wrench will loosen thesecuring bolt. The 8 degree BTDC mark is theone just to the right of the “10” degree mark onthe crankshaft pulley as viewed under a timinglight.

9.5 IGNITION TIMING AND FUEL QUALITY:Your Miata supercharger kit is designed to oper-ate on 92 Octane fuel. Make sure that you runyour engine on 92 octane only, which means youshould completely burn up any lower octane gasin your tank and refill it with 92 octane beforeinstalling your supercharger kit. NOTE: If youcan only find 91 Octane fuel (R+M/2 method),set your timing to 6 degrees BTDC instead of8 degrees. If you live in an extremely hot area(temperatures exceeding 100 degreesFahrenheit), set your timing to 6 degrees

Figure 9.4


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BTDC for an extra margin of safety. In anycase, should you ever hear “pinging” orknocking from your engine when underacceleration, you should take measures toeliminate this detonation, i.e. higher-octanefuel or a further retardation in ignition timing.NEVER CONTINUE TO OPERATE YOURENGINE IF YOU HEAR ANY SIGNS OF DETO-NATION (PINGING OR KNOCKING). YOUWILL QUICKLY MELT YOUR ENGINE DOWN!This kit has been carefully designed to work with-in the stock Mazda engine parameters and nodetonation will occur if the above settings andfuel are followed. The only way detonation cancreep into your situation is if your engine has amechanical fault, the fuel you are using is of theincorrect octane, if your timing is set incorrectlyor if your fuel filter is clogged. It is your responsi-bility as the installer of this kit to ensure that thesupercharger has been installed according tospecification.

DRIVING TIP:If you should find yourself in a situation whereyou cannot find high-octane fuel, you can bypassthe supercharger temporarily. Note the positionthe bypass actuator arm is in during idle. This isthe position that bypasses the boost air back intothe supercharger inlet. As you blip the throttle,the actuator arm will move and close a butterflyvalve inside the bypass manifold. Using a shortpiece of wire, fix the bypass actuator arm in the“bypass” position that it holds at idle. This willprevent boost from being developed and thus,detonation will not occur. Of course, your enginewill now run like a stock Miata’s, but will be quiteoperable for as long as you need. When you findhigher-octane fuel, simply remove the wire torelease the actuator arm and the bypass willfunction normally, closing during acceleration,bypassing during idle and cruise. Try to run thelow octane fuel out of your tank before filling up.Mixing fuels of different octane will lower theoverall rating and detonation could still be a prob-lem.You can order a Jackson Racing BoostTiming Controller that retards your timingduring boosted conditions. This is useful forthose who can only find 91 Octane fuel orwish to increase their low-end power byadvancing the static ignition timing.

9.6 Starting procedure: Start your engine as youwould a standard Miata. Remember to bring theengine up to operating temperature (as indicatedby your water temperature gauge) before runningit hard. Full boost on a cold engine will greatlyincrease your engine wear.

9.7 Oil changes: we suggest you use synthetic oilsuch as Mobil 1 and change it regularly (5000miles maximum). If you use a mineral oil, changeit every 2500 miles. While your superchargerdoes not use any engine oil for its lubrication,your engine will be working a little harder with theaddition of a supercharger. The synthetic oil pro-vides an extra measure of protection, but is notnecessary for safe and reliable operation.

9.8 Breaking-in: Your supercharger will work per-fectly from the first time you fire it up. However,it does need about 500 miles to fully seat therotors. Up to that time, you may notice a slightnoise coming from the supercharger at idle. Thisis normal.

9.9 Performance: You will notice that your engineruns stronger on cold days than on very hot ones.This is due to the nature of the internal combus-tion engine. When the air is cold, the enginereceives a denser charge of air, thus more powercan be produced. While this is true with anyengine, the supercharger amplifies this cold airbenefit.

10.0 LONG TERM MAINTENANCE10.1 BELTSThe only item to watch with your supercharger kitwill be the belt tension for the supercharger drive.If you have a tension gauge for a poly-vee belt,the tension is to be 90 pounds. Without a gauge,look for less than ?” of deflection on the long runof the belt. If you see a large accumulation of beltdust on your supercharger, it is an indication thatyour belt is slipping. A slight amount of belt dustis normal. CHECKING YOUR BELT FORWEAR: As the belt wears, small cracks will formin each of the ribs on the inside run of the belt.Replace your belt when you can count six crackswithin in one inch of length (six cracks total fromall ribs combined).


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10.2 DRIVEABILITYIf you notice a driveabilty problem as your carages, have your fuel pressure checked. The vari-able fuel regulator supplied with this kit increasedyour fuel injection system’s pressure as boost isapplied from the supercharger. Have a technicianinstall an accurate 0 to100psi fuel pressure gaugein the fuel line BEFORE it enters the fuel rail (thefuel line you did not disturb during this installation).With the engine running, but the vacuum line tothe auxiliary fuel pressure regulator disconnected,the fuel pressure should be 48 to 52psi. If it is not,the Allen head screw on top of the fuel regulatorcan be retracted or tightened to adjust the basefuel pressure. Make sure to temporarily connectthe vacuum line to cycle the AFPR diaphragmwhen checking the baseline pressures.10.3 Every six months or so, check your hoseclamps for correct tension. The rubber hoses willtake a set and the clamps may not be holding astight. Also check all mounting bolts and nuts, par-ticularly the throttle cable anchor bracket. 10.4Your air filter is a long-life unit needing serviceonly every 15,000 miles. To clean, you can washthe filter element in soap and water. Use a dishdetergent soap such as Dawn, etc. Rinse thor-oughly and allow to dry. Wet the filter elementwith a light application of ATF (automatic trans-mission fluid). Alternatively, a special cleaning kitis available from Jackson Racing (#901-970).

10.5 At every oil change, lubricate the bypassactuator arm contact point and shaft bushing withlight grease to insure long life - these parts areexposed to under hood dirt and grime.TROUBLESHOOTINGSYMPTOM: Engine cranks but will not startPROBABLE CAUSES: Airflow meter disconnect-ed; Idle air line open; Low battery voltageCURE: Double check that seven pin to airflowmeter is well connected. Re-check the 3/4” ICSline and the PCV line to see that they are notleaking. Use a known good battery to “jump” theMiata’s battery. It is possible to have enough volt-age to crank a Miata but not enough to correctlyrun the engine’s control computer.

SYMPTOM: No power during boostPROBABLE CAUSES: Incorrect boost signal toFuel Pressure Regulator, Pinched fuel lines,cross over tube loose.

CURE: Check signal line to AFPR for 17 inchesof Hg vacuum at idle, at least 5psi of pressureduring boost. Make sure line is not pinched orblocked. Make sure that line is attached to thecorrect nipple on bypass block. Blow into theAFPR signal line to confirm that there is no leak-age of boost signal air. Check fuel lines for kink-ing. Check the cross over tube to see that it iswell connected at both ends.

SYMPTOM: Unstable IdlePROBABLE CAUSE: Idle air screw set incorrect-ly; Restrictor left out in step #7.8; Pinched idle airbalance line; air leak in intake track.CURE: Re-check restrictor. Check idle adjust-ment procedure in step 8.1 above. Check the idleair balance line for restriction or pinching. Checkfor air leaks - vacuum at idle should be at least 17.7 in Hg.

11.0 FURTHER MODIFICATIONSNow that your Miata has a stronger engine, thereare a few changes you might want to make to therest of the car to improve its performance. Thefollowing are not required for your superchargedMiata, but are presented as tuning hints for a bet-ter all-around car. We recommend that you install a Jackson RacingStage 1 clutch when it comes time to put in a newclutch. While your new supercharger and thestandard Mazda clutch work well together, it is agood idea to step up to the Jackson Racing unitwhen you are changing your clutch. We recommend you install a set of JacksonRacing larger diameter anti-roll bars for the sus-pension for your Miata. These will tighten up yoursteering response. We also recommend a newset of Tokico shock absorbers if your Miata hasover 30,000 miles on it. The Tokico shocks cou-pled with a set of the Jackson Racing Sport low-ing spring will lower the car about 35mm. Thiscombination yields better handling with out theharsh ride of competition springs. Have your caraligned afterward (driver’s equivalent weight inthe driver’s seat) to factory specifications afterany suspension changes. You might want to add a Jackson Racing Boostand A/F ratio gauge to your supercharged Miata.These are good for keeping an eye on things. A performance exhaust will make your super-charged Miata that much faster. Since you are


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now flowing 300 cubic feet per minute through amuffler designed for 177cfm, an improvementcan be made. Jackson Racing offers a StainlessSteel Cat-back exhaust system designed aroundthe Supercharger. Further performance improvements can beobtained through the use of the Jackson RacingBoost-timing controller. This timing controllerconstantly adjusts ignition timing based on boostand RPM. This will allow you to make the mostpower safely.WARRANTY: The supercharger system carries atwo-year or 100,000 mile warranty (for the origi-nal purchaser of the kit) against defects in mate-rials and workmanship. No other warrantiesapply. This warranty is void if the subject vehicleis used in any racing activities of any sort. HELP: If you experience any problems with yourkit during installation or operation, contact yourretailer or Jackson Racing at 1-888-888-4079


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Documents

Installation Instructions SUPERCHARGER · 2017. 12. 14. · 1.1 With the engine running, raise the hood and locate the main under hood fuse box by the fend-er well near the firewall