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Gettingaroundthee-book

ThisInsightCityGuidee-bookisdesignedtogiveyouinspirationforyourvisittoHongKong,aswellascomprehensiveplanningadvicetomakesureyouhavethebesttravelexperience.TheguidebeginswithourselectionofTopAttractions,aswellasourEditor’sChoicecategoriesofactivitiesandexperiences.Detailedfeaturesonhistory,peopleandculturepaintavividportraitofcontemporarylifeinHongKong.TheextensivePlaceschaptersgiveacompleteguidetoallthesightsandareasworthvisiting.TheTravelTipsprovidefullinformationongettingaround,activitiesfromculturetoshoppingtosport,plusawealthofpracticalinformationtohelpyouplanyourtrip.

IntheTableofContentsandthroughoutthise-bookyouwillseehyperlinkedreferences.Justtapahyperlinkoncetoskiptothesectionyouwouldliketoread.Practicalinformationandlistingsarealsohyperlinked,soaslongasyouhaveanexternalconnectiontotheinternet,youcantapalinktogodirectlytothewebsiteformoreinformation.

Maps

AllkeyattractionsandsightsinHongKongarenumberedandcross-referencedtohigh-qualitymaps.Whereveryouseethereference[map]justtapthistogostraighttotherelatedmap.Youcanalsodouble-tapanymapforazoomview.

Images

You’llfindhundredsofbeautifulhigh-resolutionimagesthatcapturetheessenceofHongKong.Simplydouble-taponanimagetoseeitfull-screen.

AboutInsightGuides

InsightGuideshavemorethan40years’experienceofpublishinghigh-quality,visualtravelguides.Weproduce400full-colourtitles,inbothprintanddigitalform,coveringmorethan200destinationsacrosstheglobe,inavarietyof

formatstomeetyourdifferentneeds.

InsightGuidesarewrittenbylocalauthors,whoseexpertiseisevidentintheextensivehistoricalandculturalbackgroundfeatures.Eachdestinationiscarefullyresearchedbyregionalexpertstoensureourguidesprovidetheverylatestinformation.AllthereviewsinInsightGuidesareindependent;westrivetomaintainanimpartialview.Ourreviewsarecarefullyselectedtoguideyoutothebestplacestoeat,gooutandshop,soyoucanbeconfidentthatwhenwesayaplaceisspecial,wereallymeanit.

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TableofContentsHongKong’sTop10Attractions

Editor’sChoiceIntroduction:TheHongKongWay

HongKong’sPeopleDecisiveDates

TheStoryofHongKongCultureandSocietyWhereFoodisanArtInsight:DimSumChineseMedicine

Insight:BeliefsandSuperstitionsThePerformingArtsBusinessandMoney

Insight:ModernArchitectureIntroduction:Places

Central,WesternandThePeakInsight:TheStarFerry

WanChaiandCausewayBayInsight:Horse-Racing

TheSouthSideKowloon

Insight:ShoppingNewKowloon

Insight:HongKong’sFestivalsTheNewTerritories

Insight:HongKong’sWildSideTheOutlyingIslandsInsight:ThemeParks

MacauShenzhenandthePearlRiverDelta

GuangzhouTransport

A-Z:AHandySummaryofPracticalInformationUnderstandingtheLanguage

FurtherReadingHongKongStreetAtlas

HongKong’sTop10Attractions

WithitsvibrantChineseculture,superbfood,excitingnightlife,shoppingandoneoftheworld’smostdramaticsettings,thereisanawfullottosee

anddoinHongKong.Thisbriefintroductionsketchesoutsomeofthehighlights.

TopAttraction1

TheStarFerry.Takeinthesuperbharbourviewsaboardoneoftheseappealinglyold-fashionedvessels.AtHK$2.50fortheupperdeck,thisisoneoftheworld’sgreattravelbargains,andamustforallvisitorstoHongKong.Formoreinformation,clickhere.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TopAttraction2

TsimShaTsuiandYauMaTei.QuintessentialHongKong:shops,restaurants,crowdsandneoneverywhere.TempleStreetNightMarketisagreatplacetogetacquaintedwiththelocalvibe,butwatchoutforfakemerchandise!Formoreinformation,clickhere.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TopAttraction3

TheOutlyingIslands.Incompletecontrasttothecrowdedurbanareas,HongKong’s230OutlyingIslands–suchasLamma–arelargelyrural,andlackbuildingsoverthreestoreystall.Mostalsolackroads.Therearesomebeautifulbeachesandgreathiking.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

HKTB

TopAttraction4

WanChaiandCausewayBay.TwoofHongKong’smostdynamicandcolourfulneighbourhoods,crammedfullofbars,restaurantsandshops.Formoreinformation,clickhere.Dreamstime

TopAttraction5

PoLinMonastery.AspiritualretreathighinthemountainsofLantau.TheBigBuddhastatuedrawsthecrowds,andtheareacanbeaccessedbycablecarfromTungChung.Formoreinformation,clickhere.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TopAttraction6

ThePeak.Gazedownfromthesewoodedheightsandtakeinoneoftheworld’sgreatestvistas,accessedfromCentralbythePeakTram–anattractioninitself.Therearesomewonderfulwalksfromthetramterminus.Formoreinformation,clickhere.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TopAttraction7

Hikinginthehills.AsurprisinglyhighproportionofHongKongiscoveredbycountryparks,largelyuninhabitedtractsoflandconsistingofbiggrassyhillsandpatchesofwoodland.TheSaiKungareaintheeasternNewTerritoriesisoneofthemostattractive,andiswell-endowedwithfabuloushikingtrails.Formoreinformation,clickhereorclickhere.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TopAttraction8

ManMoTemple.HongKong’smostatmospherictemple–allcloudsofpungentincenseandmysteriousstatuesloomingoutofthedarkness.Formoreinformation,clickhere.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TopAttraction9

HongKongIslandviews.Likenowhereelseonearth,theurbanstripalongthenorthcoastoftheislandisamassofskyscraperswedgedagainsttallgreenmountains.Formoreinformation,clickhereorclickhere.iStock

TopAttraction10

HappyValley.Encircledbytwinklingapartmentblocks,theHappyValleyhorseracingtrackisafantasticamphitheatreofsportingandculturaldrama.TheastonishinggamblingpassionsoflocalsareondisplaymostWednesdaynights,SeptembertoJuly.Formoreinformation,clickhere.SuperStock

Editor’sChoice

Anoverviewofthebestfamilyattractions,festivals,walksandotherfreehighlights,plustheHongKongessentials–eating,shoppingand

nightlife–asselectedbyoureditor.

OnlyinHongKong

Lightfantastic.ThenightimeviewfromthePeak,sobreathtakingthatitbordersonthespiritual.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

Redsailsinthesunset.CatcharideontheAquaLunajunk,whichcrossestheharboureveryafternoon(https://aqualuna.com.hk).Forabudgetoption,grabadrink-to-gofromaconveniencestoreandtakearideontheStarFerry.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

Culturalinsights.TheHongKongTouristBoard(HKTB)runsfreetalksandtourswherelocalexpertssharetheirknowledgeonsubjectsrangingfromChinesemedicineandfengshuitot’aichi.Mostrequireadvancebooking.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

Escapethecity.Fewcitiesintheworldhavesucheasyaccesstobeautiful,emptycountrysidewithloftyhillsandgoodbeaches.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

TheAquaLuna.AlexHavret/ApaPublications

BestDining

Seafoodfeast.TakeaferryovertoLammaorCheungChauandgorgeyourselfondelectableseafoodatoneoftheislands’open-airrestaurants.

DimSum.Don’tmissoutonthisHongKongspeciality.

Beadventurous.Trysomeofthemoreunusuallocaldelicacies,suchassnakesouportheunappetising-sounding“thousand-yeareggs”.

Cosmopolitanchoice.HongKongishardtobeatforsheerquantityandchoiceofrestaurantsfromallcornersoftheglobe.Qualityisgenerallyhigh.

FormoreonHongKong’sculinaryscene,formoreinformation,clickhere.

DimSumisservedinwickerbaskets.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

BestforFamilies

OceanPark.Alwaysahitwithfamilies.Attractionsincluderidesforallages–thereisathrillingrollercoaster–plusaquariumsandperformingdolphins.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

Disneyland.Thishasnaturallybecomeamust-visitforkids.Formoreinformation,clickhereorclickhere.

ThePeak.Appealingtovisitorsofallages,withtheexcitingPeakTram,amazingviews(bestafterdarkforkids)andMadameTussaudstoboot.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

OutlyingIslands.Theferryride,theseafoodandthebeachesmakeforanenjoyabledayout.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

ScienceMuseum.Thishastheusualhands-oninteractiveexhibitstoentertainandeducate.Nearby,findtheSpaceMuseumwithitsIMAXcinema.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

JumboKingdomfloatingrestaurant.AtriptoAberdeen’sfinestalwaysseemstogodownwellwithchildren.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

NgongPing360.Thecablecarisgreatforchildren,and,onceatthetop,theBigBuddhawon’tdisappointeither.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

ExoticsealifeattheOceanPark.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

BestShopping

Smartshoppingmalls.ForseekingoutArmani,Diorandco.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

Grimymarkets.Attheotherendofthescale,HongKong’sstreetmarketsareworthavisitforlocalcolourand,ofcourse,thatfakeRolexyouhavealwayspromisedyourself.Formoreinformation,clickhereorclickhere.

Antiques.Don’texpectbargains,buttheshopsalongHollywoodRoadarefullofinterestingchinoiserie.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

Electronics.PeopletendtothinkofNathanRoad’s“GoldenMile”,butwhilethereisnodenyingtheabundance,pricescanbekeenerelsewhere.CitywidechainsBroadway(www.broadway.com.hk)andFortress(www.fortress.com.hk)arereliableoptions.

Clothingbargains.HongKonghaseverythingfrom5-starluxurytofactoryoutletstores–andobligingtailors.formoreinformation,clickhereorclickhere.

CatStreetmerchandise.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

BestFestivals

ChineseNewYear.Thisisthetimetoseedragondances,firecrackersandatrulybreathtakingfireworkdisplayovertheharbour.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

BunFestival.Stilt-walkersandcolourfulcostumesdescendonCheungChau.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

DragonBoatFestival.Thistakesplaceinearlysummer,withdragonboatracesatlocationsaroundHongKong.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

MidAutumnFestival.Withitslanternparadesandmooncakes,thisfestivalisbestexperiencedatVictoriaPark.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

BunFestivalonCheungChauIsland.

HKTB

BargainHongKong

Junktrip.ForjustHK$160,takeatriparoundtheharbouronanoldChinesejunk.https://aqualuna.com.hk.

FreemuseumsonWednesdays.AlldayWednesday,everyWednesday.AppliestomostmajormuseumsinHongKong.

WiFi.Numerouscafés(andsomerestaurantsandbars)havefreeWiFiaccessforcustomers.FreegovernmentWiFispotsarealsolocatedathundredsofpremisesacrossthecity,includingpubliclibraries,foodmarkets,governmentbuildingsandmajorparks.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

Localphonecalls.ThesearefreeinHongKong(also,mobilecallsareverycheap).Ifyouneedtomakealocalcallyoucanaskinashopandtheywillprobablyletyouusetheirphone.

HorseracingatHappyValley.AdmissionfeeisanominalHK$10,greatvalueforwhatcanbeanexhilaratingnightout–althoughofcourseitcanworkoutveryexpensive…Formoreinformation,clickhere.

HongKongRacingMuseuminHappyValley.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

BestWalks–UrbanandNon-Urban

KowloonwaterfronttoKowloonPark.Admirethefamousskyline,thenheadnorthviasubwaystotheheartofTsimShaTsui–Nathan,Peking,HankowroadsandKowloonPark.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

StarFerryPier(Central)toLanKwaiFong.IconicskyscrapersshowthewayonthisshorttripthroughCentral’sfinancialheartlandtoLanKwaiFong,HongKong’sglitziestdrinkingden.Thetripcanbemadeatbustlingstreetlevelorviathesci-fielevatedwalkway.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

Central/Westernbackstreets.ExploretheareaaroundStauntonStreet,hubofthelivelySoHonightlifearea,thenreturndownhilltotheauthenticChineseatmospherearoundGage,GrahamandPeelstreets.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

ThePeakTrail.ThecircularroutealongLugardandHarlechroadsisaneasybutspectacularstroll.Somemorestrenuoushikescanalsobeenjoyedfromhere.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

MacLehoseTrail.Takeyourpickofwalksalongthis100km(62-mile)trailrunningacrosstheNewTerritories.HighlightsareTaiLongWan,abeautifulbeachattheeasternextremity,andTaiMoShan,theSAR’shighestpeak.Formoreinformation,clickhereorclickhere.

TaiPoKau.OneofthelargestremainingforestsintheNewTerritories.Watchoutformonkeys.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

Lantau.ToescapetheBigBuddhacrowds,followanyofseveraltrailsleadingintothepeacefulgrassyhillsaround.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

TheMacLehosetrailcoversmuchoftheNewTerritories.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

BestNightlife

SoHo(SOuthofHOllywoodRoad).ThisareaadjoiningLanKwaiFonghasreallytakenoffoverthepastfewyears,withlotsoftrendybars,clubsandrestaurants.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

WanChai.Moredown-to-earththantheCentralnightspots.ThemainhubisfocusedonLockhartandJafferoads.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

LanKwaiFong.Long-establishednightlifehubintheheartofCentral,withawiderangeofrestaurantsandbars–packedatweekends.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

TsimShaTsui.Amixoftouristyandlocalbarsandrestaurants,withclustersinthestreetsbetweenPekingandHaiphongroads,andonKnutsfordTerrace.AnewnightlifezoneisdevelopingaroundMindenAvenueeastofNathanRoad.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

LanKwaiFongnightlife.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

BestFreeViews

ifc2.TheHongKongMonetaryAuthoritybuilding’s55th-floorInformationCentrehasstellarviewsbacktowardstheforestofhigh-risesinCentral.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

CentralPlaza.HongKong’sthird-tallestbuildingofferstheisland’smostexpansiveskyscraperviewfromitswonderfullyuntouristy45thfloor.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

BankofChinaTower.Apublicviewingdeckoccupiesacornerofthe43rdfloorofthislandmarkbuildingwithviewsovertheskyscrapersofCentralandbeyondtoKowloon.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

LugardRoad.Theviewsfromthispedestrianisedstreetarehardtobeat,especiallythemajesticnight-timevistawithitssoundtrackofchirrupingcicadas.Formoreinformation,clickhere.

TheiconicviewofHongKongfromVictoriaPeak.

HKTB

Incensecoilsarefeaturedatmanytemples.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TramsinCentral.AWLImages

Introduction:TheHongKongWay

FewcitiesignitethesensesasdoesHongKong,offeringanintoxicatingblendoftraditionand

modernity,andcolonialhistoryalongsideavibrantChineseculture.

HongKongpulsateswiththevisualenergyofafireworksdisplay.Itresonatestothedinofadimsumrestaurant’speakhour.Mesmericinamultitudeofways,attimeschaotic,intriguing,puzzling,endlesslyexcitingandinpartspossessedofanastoundingalternativebeauty,HongKongisaplacethatprecipitatesthestrongestemotions.MorethanonevisitorhasnotedthatthismustbeoneoftheEarth’sacupuncturepoints.

DimsumisaHongKongspeciality.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

HongKongisfuelledandinspiredbyconstantimmigration,frommainlandChina,fromelsewhereinAsiaandfromthefourcornersoftheworld,withmorethan7.3millionsoulssimultaneouslyfocusedontopdollarandbottomlineinanarearathersmallerthantheEnglishcountyofBerkshireandlessthanhalfthesizeoftheAmericanstateofRhodeIsland.CosmopolitanyetintegrallyChinese,HongKong’sinhabitantsaredefinedbywhat’swrittenontheirbusinesscards.Offduty,theymaygoshopping,playtennisandbasketballoncourtsperchedatopskyscrapers,orpinballtheirwaybetweenthebarsandclubscrammedhugger-muggerinthenumerousnightlifezones;everyonehereisalltooawarethatTime’swingedchariotdoesn’tsomuchhurrynearasovertakeontheinsidelane.

LockhartRoadbynight.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

HongKong’sseafoodisveryfresh.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

HongKongtookanextendedbathinthelimelightattheendofthe20thcentury,withadignifiedreturntoChinesesovereigntyin1997whichmarkedtheendofacolony,aneraandanempire.It’sallhistorynow.HongKongisaSpecialAdministrativeRegion(SAR)ofChina,withakeyroletoplayinthespectaculargrowthoftheChineseeconomy,althoughitremainsmarkedlydifferentfromthemainland:the“onecountrytwosystems”pledgeisclearlyworking,despiteconcernsandprotestsovercertainissues.Withinthisframework,HongKong’speculiar,cosmopolitanblendofChineseandWestern,anditsprosperity,continuetothrive.

Forthefirsttime,though,itisfacingrealcompetitionfromitsneighbours.TheeconomicrevolutioninthePearlRiverDeltahascatapultedentirenewcitieslikeShenzhenontotheworldmap.AndMacau’sformerlackadaisicalambiencehasbeentransformedbythearrivalofadozensofglitzycasinoswhichpullinmorepatacasthanthoseinLasVegas.DoestheformerCrowncolonyhavethestaminatokeepup?Thesmartmoneyissaying:youbet.

HongKong’sPeople

OutsidersmayseeHongKong’speopleasmaterialisticandsometimesbrusque.Buttherearereasonsforthis,includinganobsessionwith

success.

ThepeopleofHongKongarevariouslydescribedasbeingthemostbusiness-minded,materialistic,competitiveandrestlesspopulationontheplanet.Fewothercitieshavesuchacomplex,unsettledhistory.Itisaplacethatmovesatlightningspeedbecausetimeismoney,andeveryminutecosts.Thoughitcansometimesinfuriate,lifeinHongKongisaddictive,andeventhosewhohaveescapedtomorepeacefulplaces–vowingnevertoreturn–havebeendrawnbacklikeironfilingstoamagnet.Eventhemostjadedvisitorusuallyfindssomethingseductiveaboutit.

ChinesechessisonlyvaguelysimilartoitsWesterncounterpart.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

HongKong’s7.3millionpeoplearepackedintojust1,103sqkm(426sqmiles),andcertainareashavesomeoftheworld’shighestpopulationdensities.Duringrushhour,overwhelmingcrowdsofcommuterssqueezethemselvesintotrainsandbuses.Lunchhourisafeedingfrenzy,asthousandsofofficeworkersdashforrestaurants,jostlingandbargingtheirwayintotinynoodleshopsanddelicatessens.Elbowingstrangers,jumpingqueuesandhonkinghornsintrafficjams(oftencomplementedbydeafeningconstructionsitesandroadworks)areunavoidablefeaturesofdailylifehere.

FamilyshoppingatGrahamStreetMarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AsamajortradingportsituatedonthefertilePearlRiverDelta,HongKonghaslongbeenamagnetforimmigrantsinsearchofabetterlife.NewarrivalscontinuetofloodinfromChinaandoverseas,allsharingonedream:tomakemoneyquicklyandtoenjoyspendingit.ThiscontinualinjectionofnewbloodispartofwhatgivesHongKongitsexcitementandintensity.

Forthoseseekingasettled,peacefulexistence,HongKongwillbeahardslapintheface.Thisplaceresoundswithrags-to-richestalesofentrepreneurswhobuiltuptheirbusinessempiresfromscratch,andthispromiseofsuccessisinthemindsofalmosteveryimmigrantwhoheadshere.

LocalidentityHongKongis,andalwayshasbeen,Chinese.Inspiteofmorethan150yearsofcolonialrule,theChinese,whomakeupabout92percentofthepopulation,neverhadasenseofallegiancetotheBritishCrown.Thoseoftheoldergeneration,whooriginatedfromelsewhere,oftenidentifiedwiththeirhomeprovincesortownsinChinaratherthanHongKong.

Onthewhole,however,localChinesearemoreinclinedtoviewthemselvesasHongKongcitizensratherthanHanChinese.Thissenseofidentityhasincreasedinthepost-handoveryears,alongwithwhatcouldbetermedanembryoniccivicpride–HongKongersnolongerregardtheircitysimplyassomewheretoliveandmakemoney,withaneyetomovingonsomewhereelseasneedsdictate.Greaterpoliticalandevenenvironmentalawareness–examplesincludethecampaigntohaltfurtherreclamationoftheharbour–aresymptomsofamaturingcitygrowinginconfidenceandsophistication.Itisinpartduetothefactthatthelocalpopulationisevermorelikelytohavebeenbornandraisedhere,andthattheyarepartofwhatislikelytobecometheworld’slargesteconomywithinageneration.

WesternsportssuchasbasketballarepopularinHongKong.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

EthnicgroupsHongKong’soriginalinhabitants(formoreinformation,clickhere)settledinwhatisnowtheNewTerritoriesandoutlyingislands.SometimesreferredtoasthePunti“peopleoftheearth”,theyweremainlyfarmers.Inthe13thcentury,KublaiKhan’sMongolhordessweptsouthintoChina,destroyingtheSongdynastyandpushingHanChinesefarmerssouthwardsfromthemainlandintoHongKong.TheTangclansettledinthefertileShekKongValley,wheretheyestablishedaclusterofwalledvillagesincludingKatHingWaiinKamTin(formoreinformation,clickhere).Theywerefollowedoverthecenturiesbyvariousotherfamilies,formingtheso-called“FiveGreatClans”:theTang,Hau,Pang,LiuandMan.Thesepeopledevelopedtradeinsalt,pearls,ceramicsandfishing,andfarmedthefertilerivervalleys.

Friendstalkovernoodles.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Meanwhile,theHakka(“guestpeople”)migratedsouthwardsinwavesfromcentralChina.AslaterarrivalstheymadethebestofthemorehillylandintheeasternNewTerritories.

ForcenturiesasprinklingofTanka“boatpeople”havelivedonjunksinplaceslikeTaiOandAberdeen,harvestingpearlsandmakingsalt.LegendhasitthattheTankaarethedescendantsofthe5th-centurygeneral,LuTsun,whorevoltedagainsttheemperor;afterhisdeath,hispeoplewerepersecutedanddeemedunworthytoliveonland.

Boardingatram.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TheTanka’sboat-basedcommunitiesalsoattractedtheHoklopeople,whooriginatefromtheareaaroundFuzhou(Fujianprovince)andweretraditionallyfishermenandmanuallabourers.TodayallfishingcommunitiescelebratetheseagoddessTinHau’sbirthdayonthe23rddayofthethirdmoon,sailinginelaboratelydecoratedfishingboatstohertemplestoprayforprotectionatsea.

TheseethnicgroupsremainedremotefromtheChinese,andlaterBritish,imperialauthoritiesallthewaythroughtothe1950s.

imperialauthoritiesallthewaythroughtothe1950s.

Localssittingonabench.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TheCantoneseThismixof“indigenous”peopleisnowcomprehensivelyoutnumberedbytheCantonese,whotracetheirrootsbacktootherareasofGuangdongprovince.Traditionallyregardedasarebellious,ungovernablepeoplegiventospontaneousactionifangered,theyhavealwaysbeenmistrustedbyemperorsandregimes.TheNationalistrevolution,whichtoppledtheQingdynastyin1912,wasinstigatedbyaCantonese,DrSunYat-sen,andGuangzhoubecamethecentrefortheNationalistParty,thefirstmodernpoliticalpartyinChina.TheChineseCommunistPartyfoundedthePeasantMovementTrainingInstitute,theirfirstschool,inGuangzhouin1922,andMaoZedongissaidtohavedevelopedhistheoryofpeasantrevolutionwhileworkinginthecity.

Foroverahundredyears,fromthelatterpartofthe19thcenturytothepresentday,theportofHongKonghasbeenthedestinationofmigrants,someofwhomstayedinthefarmingvillagesoftheNewTerritoriesortheurbancentresofKowloonorCentralandWestern.ManyheadedfurtherafieldtotheUS,AustraliaorSoutheastAsia.NeverwasthepushandpullofmigrationmoreevidentthanduringandaftertheJapaneseOccupationandfollowingtheendoftheChineseCivilWar.ArrivalsfromGuangdongremainedthemajority,butinthelate1940slargenumbersofrefugeesfromShanghai,theformercommercialcentreofChina,fledtoHongKongwhenthecommuniststookover.ManyforeignfirmsalsorelocatedtheirChineseheadquarterstoHongKong.TheShanghainesecommunitysettledinNorthPointonHongKongIsland,andthebusinessmenamongthemwerequicktousetheircapital,know-howandpooloflabourtosetupfactories.

TheCantoneselanguage

TheCantoneselanguageoftensoundsharshandargumentativetounaccustomedears,butitshumour,slangandinterspersedEnglishwordsmakeforlivelyconversation.CantoneseisalsocenturiesolderthanMandarin(putonghua),theofficiallanguageofChina,whichevolvedlaterinthecourtsofMongolemperorsduringtheYuandynasty(1271–1368).Therefore,theoriginalrhythmsandsoundsofclassicalTang-andSong-dynastypoetryareprobablyclosertomodern-dayCantonese.Onaday-to-daylevelCantoneseisabawdylanguage:quiteinnocent-lookingindividualsswearliketroopers,andpeopleareoftenbrutalwhencommentingonotherpeople’sappearanceanddelightinpunsanddoubleentendre.

TheChiuChow(Shantou)peoplefromfurtheruptheGuangdongcoast,alsorenownedfortheirbusinessacumen,clungtogetherinpowerfulclannetworks,andsettledinSaiYingPunandKowloonCity.

AschooloutinginPoHo.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

PopulationexplosionFormuchofthe1950s,’60sand’70s,illegalimmigrantscontinuedtooutwitthebattalionsofthePeople’sLiberationArmy(PLA)andChinesecoastalgunboats,whichcooperatedwithHongKong’ssecurityforces.By1980thisinflux,combinedwithahighbirthrate,hadpushedHongKong’spopulationto4million(formoreinformation,clickhere).

ThesedecadesofpopulationgrowthcoincidedwithHongKong’srapidindustrialisation,atimewhenfactoriesweredesperateforlabour.Duringtheearly1950smanypeoplelivedinsquatterhuts,thenlaterinnewlybuiltgovernmenthousingblocksinKowloon,whichprecededthevastnewtowndevelopments(todaymorethanhalfofHongKong’scitizensliveinnewtownsintheNewTerritories).

Populationfacts&figures

HongKong’spopulationpassedthe7millionmarkin2009andatthelastcensus,in2016,standsat7.34million.Itmeansthateachsquarekilometreofitsterritoryishometoanaverageof6,777people(17,230persqmile)–makingitoneoftheworld’smostcrowdedplaces.Locallybornresidentsformthemajorityofthepopulation(61percent),with31percenthavingbeenbornelsewhereinChina.Cantoneseisspokenby96percent,but45percentcanspeakEnglishand40percentMandarin.Therearealsoover200,000speakerseachofHakka,ChiuChow,Hokkien(Fukien)andShanghainese.At83.74years,lifeexpectancyisamongtheworld’shighest,whileinfantmortalityratesareamongthelowest.

IntheNewTerritories,farmingwasindecline,unabletoprovidesufficientemploymentforthetypicallylargefamilieslivingthere.Throughoutthe1950s,theUK’spolicytorecruitunskilledworkersfromitscoloniesdrewthousandsofyoungmenfromtheseruralcommunities.ManyofthefoundersofBritishChinesetakeawayrestaurantswerepartofthisexodus.

ShoppingattheTempleStreetNightMarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TheRightofAbodeAsChinaopenedupinthe1980s,agrowingnumberofHongKongmen,typicallynewmigrants,marriedmainlandChinesewomen,creatinganewsocialproblemofdividedfamilies.DadlivedandworkedinHongKongwhileMumandthekidsstayedinGuangdong,visitingonlyoccasionally.After1997manyofthesedependentchildren,nowgrownup,soughttoclaimRightofAbodeinHongKong,causingfiercedebateoverresidencyrights.InitiallytheHongKongCourtruledintheirfavour,butwithHongKongconcernedthatthiswouldinstantlygrantresidencytoaround300,000mainlandChinese,thegovernmentinBeijingwasaskedtoruleonthematter,andtheinterpretationoftheRightofAbodewassubsequentlyaltered.

Anelderlyresident.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Sincethen,anyonefrommainlandChinawhoiscomingtoHongKongfromChinatoreunitefamiliesisgivenpriorityinthequotaofnewarrivalsallowed.

Chinatoreunitefamiliesisgivenpriorityinthequotaofnewarrivalsallowed.Nowadays,thenumberofmainlandersallowedtosettlehasbeenincreasing–from25,000ayearinthelate1980sto54,750,or150perday,in2013.However,tensofthousandsofHongKongmenmarrymainlandwomeneveryyearanda2001courtrulingthatanyoneborninHongKongwasentitledtoresidencyledthousandsofpregnantmainlandwomenarrivingatHongKongmaternitywardsintheadvancedstagesoflabour.Thisbecameoneofthehottopicsaroundthe2012legislativeelections,withthewinningchiefexecutive,LeungChun-ying,banningmainlandmothersfromschedulingbirthingappointmentsin2013.ThisisoneoftheprimaryreasonsthatresentmentagainstmainlandersstillsmouldersinpartsofHongKongsociety.

ManyofthesemothersplantosendthechildrentoHongKongforschooling,oftenwhilemothers,andsometimesfatherstoo,remaininGuangdongtowork;thisiscreatinganewrangeofsocialproblemsanddifficultyinadjustment.Today,manynewarrivalsfromthemainlandarestillderidedasahtsan(countrybumpkins)andarethebuttofjokesinsoapoperas,despitethefactthattheysharethesameheritageasmostHongKongresidents.

Dualidentity

Afterthe1984Sino-BritishagreementtoreturnHongKongtoChina,andtheeventsinTiananmenSquarein1989,anewtypeofmigrationemergedintheterritory.Between1990and1997some300,000arethoughttohaveleftHongKong,travellingmainlytoCanada,AustraliaandtheUnitedStates.Thepriceofsecuringaforeignpassportmeantsacrificingbusinesses,familyandfriends,andstartingfromscratchinanaliencountry.ManyoftheémigrésthenreturnedtoHongKongafterestablishingpermanentresidenceoverseas,shuttlingbackandforthannuallytoretaintheirstatusinbothplaces.ManyentertheSAR(formoreinformation,clickhere)andChinawiththeirHongKongIDcard,butusetheirforeignpassportwhentravellingfartherafield.

ExpatriatesinHongKongHongKong’sculturaldiversityislargelyaresultofthemanydifferentforeignnationalswhohavemadetheirhomehere,eithertemporarilyorpermanently.Indeed,the6percentofthepopulationthatisnotChinesehavemadevaluablecontributionstocuisine,arts,cultureandreligioninHongKong,whileassimilatinglocalcustomsandtraditions.HongKonggrantspermanentresidencyandtherighttovote(albeitforalimitednumberofseatsinLegco)toall–withtheexceptionofdomestichelpers–whohavelivedherelegallyforsevenyearscontinuously,butonlythosewithChineseparentagewillbegrantedaHongKongSARpassport(seebox).

BusychefsatLittleBao.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

American,Australian,Canadian,SouthAfrican,BritishandotherEuropeanexpatriates–gweilo(“ghostperson”or“foreigndevil”)astheyareknowninCantonese–makeupthemajorityoftheforeignbusinesscommunity,numberingaround36,000.(Itisworthnotingthatthetermgweiloisinsuchcommonusethatitisnotgenerallytakentobeoffensive.HoweverCantoneseslangforpeoplefromthemainland,andanyonewithadarkerskin,isgenerallyderogatory.)DuringBritishrule,expatriateswereoftengivenpreferentialtreatmentintheworkplace,commandingmuchhighersalariesthantheChinese.Today,theseinequalitiesarelessapparent.Nonetheless,inrecentyearsHongKonghastriedtofocusonattractingskilledprofessionalsthroughvariousschemes.Itgrantsworkingvisastomorethan210,000non-Chinese

professionalseachyear,andhasaspecialschemetargetingmainlandprofessionals.

Freshfishatthemarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ThereareincreasingnumbersofAsianexpatriatesandoverseas-bornChineselivingasexpatriatesinHongKong.TheJapanesebusinesscommunityhasplayedaquietbutimportantroleincommerceinHongKongandChina,andtherearesome2,000Japanesecompaniesandalmost14,000JapaneseresidentsintheSAR.

OneofthemoreestablishedforeigncommunitiesinHongKongcomprisesthedescendantsofearlymerchanttradersandsoldierswhofollowedtheUnionJackfromtheIndiansubcontinenttoHongKong:Indians–includingmanySikhsandParsees,aswellasSriLankans,PakistanisandBangladeshis.Theirdescendants,manyofwhomspeakfluentCantonesecanonlybegranted

descendants,manyofwhomspeakfluentCantonesecanonlybegrantedHKSARpassportsiftheycanproveChinesebloodorjumpthroughatoughseriesofhoops.Upto8,000weregrantedBritishpassportsinalast-minuterulingin1996.

Afewthousandex-Gurkhatroops,whoonceservedintheBritisharmy,arenowworkingassecurityguardsinHongKong,andmanyoftheirlocallybornoffspringusetheirrighttopermanentresidencytoworkinHongKongtoo.

HongKong’slargestethnicgroupsareFilipinaandIndonesiandomestichelpers.Over200,000eachyearenteronstrictemploymentvisasthatstipulatetheymustlive-inwiththeiremployersandworksixdaysaweek.AminimummonthlywageofHK$4,310(US$556)isinforce.ThisenablesbothparentsinmanyHongKongfamiliestoworkfulltimeandcareforchildrenandelderlyrelatives.

Mostdomestichelpersremitthebulkoftheirpayhometosupporttheirownchildrenthroughschoolingandtoprovidefortheirextendedfamilies.ComeSundaysandpublicholidays,thousandsofFilipinahelpersgatherinCentraltomeetfriends,whilethegrowingIndonesiancommunitytendstogathernearVictoriaParkinCausewayBay.

DecisiveDates

c.4000BC

Thefirststone-agesettlementsareestablishedonthesouthChinacoast.

EmperorKangxi.Publicdomain

1557

PortuguesetradersestablishacolonyatMacau.

1685

EmperorKangxiallowslimitedtradeinGuangzhou(Canton).ShipsbeginarrivingfromtheBritishEastIndiaCompany.

1773Britishtradersunload1,000chestsofopiuminGuangzhou.

1799

China’sopiumconsumptionreaches2,000chestsayear,forcingBeijingtobanthedrug,whichthendrivesthetrade

underground.

1834

TheBritishEastIndiaCompanylosesitsmonopolyontheopiumtradetootherEuropeannations.

1839Chinaappointstheanti-opiumviceroy,LinZexu,tocleanupdrugsinGuangzhou.Heconfiscatessome20,000chestsof

opiumfromtheBritish.HostilitiesmountuntilNovember,whenBritishshipsblowupfourChinesejunks,sparkingthefirst

Anglo-ChineseWar,whichbecameknownastheFirstOpiumWar.

1840–1

NegotiationsbetweenChinaandBritainbreakdown,andtheBritishfleetattacksGuangzhouandoccupiesthecity’sforts.

Thetwosidesagreeonapreliminaryresolution(theConventionofChuenPi),whichcedestheislandofHongKong(population5,000)totheBritish.Butneithergovernmentishappywiththe

termsandbothrefusetoratifyit.

1842TheOpiumWarendsandBritishpossessionofHongKongisconfirmedbytheTreatyofNanjing,whichcedesHongKongIslandtoBritain“inperpetuity”.SirHenryPottingerbecomes

thefirstBritishgovernorofHongKong.

Colonialperiod

1856–60

TheChinesecedeKowloonandStonecutter’sIsland“inperpetuity”toBritain.Buthostilitiescontinue,culminatingin

theSecondOpiumWar.

1862

ASino-PortuguesetreatygrantsMacaucolonialstatussimilartoHongKong’s.

1898

BritainforcesChinatoleasetheNewTerritories,includingtheoutlyingislands,for99years.

1911

1911DrSunYat-senoverthrowstheQingdynastyandestablishesthe

RepublicofChina.

1912

EmperorPuyiabdicates,signallingtheendofImperialChina.

SirHenryPottinger,thefirstgovernor.Publicdomain

1932

1932

TheChineseCommunistsdeclarewaronJapan.

1941OnChristmasDaytheBritishsurrenderHongKongtothe

Japanese.

1945

WorldWarIIendsandtheBritishresumecontrolofHongKong.China’scivilwarbetweentheCommunistsandthe

Nationalists(Guomintang)resumes.

SunYat-sen.GlynGenin/ApaPublications

1949TheNationalistsaredefeatedandfleetoTaiwan.The

CommunistsfoundthePeople’sRepublicofChina(PRC).

1953

Withtensofthousandsofpeoplearrivingeachmonth,HongKong’spopulationhits2.2million,butmanyarelivingin

Kong’spopulationhits2.2million,butmanyarelivinginsquattercamps.TheShekKipMeifireleaves53,000homeless.

Publichousingpolicyisfast-tracked.

1966

CulturalRevolutionbeginsinChina,spillingoverintoHongKongwithriotsoverapriceincreaseinthefirst-classStarFerry

fare.

TheJapanesearrive,1941.Corbis

1971

SirMurrayMacLehosebecomesthefirstHongKonggovernortobeappointedfromtheBritishdiplomaticcorps.

1972

Openingofthefirstcross-harbourtunnel.HongKongpopulationhits4million.

1973Thefirstnewtown,TuenMun,iscompleted.

1974

TheIndependentCommissionAgainstCorruption(ICAC)issetuptostampoutcrimeandcorruption.

1976

DeathofMaoushersinaneweraforChina.

1978UnderDengXiaoping,Chinastartstoreformitseconomyand

openitsdoorstotheworld.

1979

HongKong’sUS$1billionMassTransitRailway(MTR)opens.

1982

BritishPrimeMinisterMargaretThatchervisitsBeijingandHongKongtobegindiscussionsonHongKong’sfuture.ChinadecidestodevelopShenzhen,asmalltownonHongKong’s

northernborder,intoaSpecialEconomicZone(SEZ).

Handovercountdown

1983ChinarevealsitsplanforHongKongtobecomeaSpecial

AdministrativeRegion(SAR)after1997.Undertheproposedterms,HongKongwillkeepitsowncapitalistsystem,judiciary

andpolice,andtheleadingofficialwillbeaHongKongChinese.TheHongKongdollarispeggedtotheUSdollarata

rateof7.8.

1984

TheBritishAmbassadortoChinaandtheChineseViceForeignMinisterinitial“ADraftAgreementontheFutureofHongKong”,endingtwoyearsofacrimony.TheHongKong

governmentstartstoplanfortheterritory’sadministrationintheyearsrunningupto1997.

1985

BritainandChinaratifytheSino-BritishJointDeclaration.ThecolonyholdsitsfirstelectionfortheLegislativeCouncil

(Legco),drawingcriticismfromChina,whichinsiststhatanypoliticalchangesnotacceptedbyBeijingwillnotberespected

afterthehandover.

1988

TheproposedBasicLaw,HongKong’spost-handoverconstitution,ispublished.

1989

OnemillionpeopletaketothestreetstoprotestagainsttheTiananmenSquaremassacre.ForcedrepatriationofVietnamese

boatpeoplebegins.

1991BeijingandLondonannounceanagreementregardingthenew

airport.

1992

HongKong’s28thandlastBritishgovernor,ChrisPatten,arrivesintheterritoryandproposespoliticalreform.Themove

drawsattacksfromBeijing.

ChrisPattenattheHandoverceremonyin1997.Corbis

1994LegcopassesPatten’sproposedelectoralreforms.Chinaand

UKcontinuetosquabble.

1997

Chinaresumessovereigntyon1July,TungChee-hwaisappointedchiefexecutive(CE)andHongKongbecomesan

SAR.ThestockmarketdivesinresponsetotheAsianeconomiccrisis.

Post-handover

1998

VotersgotothepollstoselectathirdoftheseatsonLegco.HongKongInternationalAirportatChekLapKokopens.Asianeconomiccrisisworsens.Firstknownhumancaseofbirdflu

viruskillssixpeople.

1999TheruleoflawisunderminedasgovernmentasksBeijingtooverturntheCourtofFinalAppeal’srulingontherightofabode.TyphoonYorkkillstwoandinjuresover500.China

resumessovereigntyofMacau.

2003

ThedeadlySARSvirusspreadstoHongKong,killing299.Economicrecoverystumbles.On1July,overhalfamillionpeoplejoinamarchtoprotestagainstproposalsfornationalsecuritylaws(“Article23”).Thegovernmentbacksdownand

shelvestheplansindefinitely.

2004

Mainlandtouristarrivalsboomandeconomicrecoverybegins.Uptohalfamillionprotestorsagainmarchon1July,callingfor

moredemocracyandlocalcontrol.

2005TungChee-hwaresignsandissucceededbyDonaldTsang,a

careercivilservantwithafinancebackground.

2006

Astravelrestrictionsonthemainlandcontinuetoease,Chinesevisitorarrivalshit13.6million.

2007AnelectioncommitteeappointsDonaldTsangasCEuntil2012.

2008

HongKonghostsequestrianeventsfortheBeijingOlympics.InSeptember,SAR-wideelectionsareheldforhalftheseatson

Legco.

Protesterduringthe“UmbrellaRevolution”.GettyImages

2012Anew-lookchiefexecutiveelectionseesLeungChun-yingbecomeHongKong’smostseniorofficial.Afterweeksofprotests,thenewgovernmentabandonsplanstoforceHongKongschoolchildrentositChinese“patriotism”classes.

2014

Massprotests,includingmasscivildisobedience,arestagedtopressureBeijingtointroduceuniversalsuffrage(Umbrella

Revolution).

2017CarrieLam,aBeijing-supportedcandidate,becomeschiefexecutive.Theelectionremainsindirect(bytheElection

Committeeandnotbypublicvote).

2018

TyphoonMangkhutstrikesinSeptember,causingwidespreaddamage.TheHongKongNationalPartybecomesthefirst

politicalpartytobebannedsinceHongKong’sreturntoChina.

TheStoryofHongKong

InitiallyregardedbytheBritishasanill-chosengainoflimitedvalue,HongKongsoonbecameanimportantpartoftheEmpire–andonethatwas

onlyreluctantlyrelinquished.

Tomostpeople,HongKong’shistorystartswiththeOpiumWarsinthe1840s.However,archaeologicalstudieshaveuncoveredevidenceofhumanhabitationalongthisstretchofthesouthernChinesecoastdatingbacksome6,000years.

Mostoftheexcavatedstonetools,potteryandotherartefactshavebeenfoundpreservedincoastalareas,suggestingastrongdependenceonthesea.BronzeappearedinthemiddleofthesecondmillenniumBC,andweaponsandtoolssuchasaxesandfishhookshavebeenexcavatedfromlocalsites.Thereisevidence,too,intheformofstonemouldsfromtheislandsofChekLapKok,LantauandLamma,thatthemetalwasworkedlocally.Rockcarvings,mostofwhicharegeometricinstyle,havealsobeendiscoveredaroundHongKongIslandandonsomeofthesmallerislands.

Laundryhangingacrossthestreets,1941.GettyImages

AnincreasingnumberofpeoplefromthemainlandcametosettleintheregionduringtheQin(221–206BC)andHan(206BC–AD220)dynasties.CoinsoftheHanperiodhavebeenfoundinHongKong,andabricktombwasuncoveredatKowloon’sLeiChengUk(formoreinformation,clickhere)withacollectionoftypicalHantombfurniture.Otherfindingsincludedpotteryandironimplements.Littlehasbeendiscoveredfromthenext1,000years,butengravedwritings,coinsandceladonpotterysuggeststronglinkswiththeChineseSongdynastyduringthe13thcentury.ThemanyMing-styleblue-and-whiteporcelainworksdiscoveredonLantausuggestincreasingcontactwiththemainlandduringtheMing(1368–1644)andQing(1644–1911)dynasties.

ThecomingoftheEuropeans

ThecomingoftheEuropeansTheWestbegantoshowaninterestinChinaandAsiaduringthe15thand16thcenturiesduetotheincreasedtradeinproductssuchassilkandtea.ThePortuguesewerethefirsttoarrive,tradingwithChinaatvariouspointsalongthecoastandestablishingasettlementatMacauin1557.TheBritish,ontheotherhand,didnotappearinforceuntilthelatterpartofthe17thcentury.

In1685,EmperorKangxi,whoreignedwhentheQingdynastywasatthepeakofitspower,openedGuangzhouforlimitedtrade.ShipsbeganarrivingfromtheBritishEastIndiaCompanystationsontheIndiancoast,andsoonHongKong,withitsdeep-waterharbour,begantoestablishitselfasatradinghub.FifteenyearslatertheCompany,theworld’slargestcommercialorganisation,receivedpermissiontobuildastoragewarehouseoutsideGuangzhou.

EarlytradewithEuropeans

Tobeginwith,intheearly18thcentury,tradewithWesterncountrieswasinChina’sfavour.TraderspaidhugeamountsofsilverforfineChineseteaandsilkproducts,forwhichtherewasgreatdemandinEurope.Toughtermswereimposedonforeigntraders,consideredtobebarbarians.TheycouldonlyliveinrestrictedareasinGuangzhou.Theycouldnotbringinarms,warshipsorwomen.LearningtheChineselanguagewasforbidden,andtradersalsohadtoputupwiththeChinesesystemofroyalties,bribesandfees.Furthermore,localmerchantswereappointedbytheemperortokeepaneyeonforeigners.

Nineteenth-centuryopiumaddicts.MaryEvansPictureLibrary

TheopiumtradeAftermorethanacenturyoftradingwithChina,theEastIndiaCompanytriedtobalanceitsincreasinglyexpensivepurchasesbydevelopingitsprofitablesaleofopiumtotheChinese,mostlyshippedfromtheircoloniesinBengal.Bythebeginningofthe19thcenturytherewerealreadymillionsofaddictsinChina,andthecountrywaspayingforitsspirallingdrughabitwithsilverspecie,disastrouslydepletingthenationaltreasury.Clearly,fromaQingperspective,somethinghadtobedone.

Alarmedattheincreasingoutflowofsilver,theemperorJiaqingbannedthedrugtradecompletelyin1799.In1810hewentfurther,announcing:“Opiumisapoison,underminingourgoodcustomsandmorality.Itsuseisprohibitedbylaw.”ButneitherforeignersnorGuangdongmerchantswerewillingtogiveuptheprofitablebusiness,andtheyresortedtosmuggling.By1820,thetradehadgrownto30,000chestsannually.

Jiaqing’sson,Daoguang,continuedtoissueedictsafterhecametothedragonthronein1820,buttonoavail–theBritishweren’tlistening,andnor,apparently,weretheopiumaddicts.Accordingly,in1838DaoguangdispatchedLinZexu,theformidableGovernor-GeneralofHenanandHubei,ashiscommissionertoimposeQinganti-opiumlegislationontheunrulyforeign

commissionertoimposeQinganti-opiumlegislationontheunrulyforeigntradersinGuangzhou.TothefuryoftheWesterners–atwhoseheadstoodtheBritish–Linconfiscatedanddestroyedmorethan20,000chestsofopiumandblockadedtheporttoforeignshipping.LinalsowrotetoQueenVictoria,askingwhytheBritishprohibitedopiumimportsintotheirowncountry,butforceditonChina.“Wasthisamorallycorrectposition?”,thecommissioneraskedrhetorically.

TheBritishdemandtheopeningofChina’sports.BridgemanArtLibrary

Lin’sletterwasneverdeliveredtothequeen,althoughitwaspublishedinTheTimes.Andwhileitmayhavegivenliberalanti-opiumcampaignersinGreatBritainpauseforthought,itraisednosympathyatallwiththeopiummerchantsofIndiaandCanton,wholoudlydemandedcompensationfortheirlostopium,andpressedformilitaryretaliation.Thiscamein1840,withthearrivalofwarshipsandsoldiersfromIndia.EuropeanmilitarysuperiorityensuredtheFirstOpiumWar(1840–42)wasshort,sharpandone-sided.TheBritishseizedcontrolofGuangzhou.Intimidated,theQingcommissioner,QiShan,whohadreplacedLin,agreedinJanuary1841totheConventionofChuenPi,whichcededHongKongIslandtoBritain.On26January1841,theBritishflagwasraisedatPossessionPointonHongKongIsland,andtheislandwasofficiallyoccupied.Fivemonthslater,BritishofficialsbegansellingplotsoflandandthecolonisationofHongKongbegan.

Thename“HongKong”isderivedfromtheCantoneseHeungGong,whichmeans“fragrantharbour”.Inthepast,sandalwoodincensewasproducedaroundwhatisnowAberdeen,and

thescentdriftedouttosea.

NeitherChinanorBritainwashappywiththetermsoftheChuenPiagreement,however.TheChinesegovernmentanditspeoplesawthelossofapartofitsterritoryasanunbearablehumiliation,andQiShanwasorderedtoBeijinginchains.TheBritishgovernment,particularlyLordPalmerston,theirascibleForeignSecretary,wasunhappywithHongKong,whichhecontemptuously–andfamously–describedas“abarrenislandwithbarelyahouseuponit”,andrefusedtoacceptitasanalternativetoacommercialtreaty.

BlamingCaptainCharlesElliotoftheRoyalNavyforfailingtomakefulluseofthetroopssenttoChina,PalmerstonreplacedhimwithSirHenryPottinger,HongKong’sfirstgovernor,inAugust1841.PottingersoonrealisedHongKong’spotentialfuture,eventhoughBritainhadtreateditasjustanotherpawninongoingnegotiationswiththeChinese.Heencouragedlong-termbuildingprojectsandawardedlandgrants.

HongKongbecameaBritishcolonyinthreestages:HongKongIsland(1841–2)was

followedbytheKowloonpeninsula(1860),thenNewKowloonandtheNewTerritorieswere

leasedfor99years(1898).

AfterShanghaifellin1842,theQingauthoritiessuedforpeace,andtheTreatyofNankingwassignedinAugust,formallytransferringHongKongIslandtotheBritish“inperpetuity”(theChuenPiConventionofthepreviousyearhadnotbeensignedandsowasneveracceptedasanofficialagreementbytheBritish).AswellasawardingtheBritish21millionouncesofsilverincompensationfortheopiumseizedthreeyearsearlier,thetreatyalsoopenedfive“TreatyPorts”toforeignshippingandresidenceincludingGuangzhou,Xiamen

“TreatyPorts”toforeignshippingandresidenceincludingGuangzhou,XiamenandFuzhou,NingboandShanghai.SuddenlyChinawasexposedtoanewandtroublesome“enemyatthegate”.Subsequently,withthesiltingofMacau’sharbourandtheweakeningofPortuguesepowerinAsia,HongKongbeganitsgrowthintooneofthegreatestportcitiestheworldhadeverseen.

StormingthefortressatXiamen(Amoy)in1841.TheArtArchive

TheearlycolonialperiodInitsearlydays,thenewBritishcolonygrewslowly,butfurtherAnglo-Chineseconflictwassoontochangethis.In1856adisputeovertheinterpretationoftheearliertreatyledtotheoutbreakoftheSecondOpiumWar,andduringthetwo-yearconflict,manycompaniesinGuangzhoutransferredtheirofficestoHongKong,considerablystrengtheningthefledglingcolony.China,weakwithacorruptgovernment,lostagain.Bythesummerof1858,alliedBritishandFrenchtroopshadadvancedfartothenorth,forcingtheChinesegovernmenttosigntheTreatiesofTianjin(Tientsin).ThetermsgaveforeignerstherighttosenddiplomaticrepresentativestoChinaandtravelfreelythroughouttheland.

ApanoramaofVictoriaHarbourfrom1860.GettyImages

HostilitieswererenewedthefollowingyearwhenChinesesoldiersfiredonthefirstBritishenvoytoChinaashemadehiswaytothecourtinBeijing.Fightingcontinueduntil1860.TheBritishconsulinGuangzhousecuredtheperpetualleaseoftheKowloonpeninsulaallthewaynorthtowhatisnowBoundaryStreet,includingStonecutter’sIsland.

Bythistime,othercountries–Russia,France,GermanyandJapan–werewakinguptotheimportanceofhavingeasyaccesstoChina.NottobeoutdonebytheBritish,theybegantomakesimilarincursionstosecurefootholdsallalongtheChinesecoastline.In1862,aSino-PortuguesetreatygaveMacauacolonialstatussimilartothatofHongKong.Asecondtreatyin1887confirmeditasaPortuguesecolonyinperpetuity.

TheBritishwereconcernedthattheirterritoryinHongKongwasvulnerabletoattackfromthenorth,andwishedtogaincontrolofthemountainousareanorthofKowloonasfarastheShenzhenRiver.In1898theygottheirway,securingtheleaseofwhatbecameknownastheNewTerritories(aswellassome230islands)foraperiodof99years.Therewaslaterregretathavingsignedthistreaty,whichonlyleasedtheland,whileHongKongIslandandtheKowloonpeninsulawereBritishinperpetuity.(ItwouldlaterbeimpracticalforBritaintokeepHongKongIslandandKowloonwhentheNewTerritoriesleaseranoutin1997.)

ranoutin1997.)Atfirst,ChinesewarshipswereallowedtousethewharfatKowloonCity,

andChineseofficialswerepermittedtoremaininoffice.However,ayearlater,theBritishtookoverthecitycompletely.TheNewTerritorieswasdeclaredapartofHongKong,althoughitkeptaseparateadministrativebodyfromtheurbanarea.Underalaissez-fairestyleofBritishrule,HongKongpeoplewereleftalonetoconcentrateontheirbusinesses.

Duringthelate19thandearly20thcenturies,thecolonydevelopedrapidly,becomingamagnetforimmigrantsandacentreoftradewithChinesecommunitiesabroad.Severalpublic-servicecompanieswereestablished,includingtheHongKongandChinaGasCompanyin1861,thePeakTramin1888andthe137km(85-mile)Kowloon-CantonRailway(KCR)in1910.Thepaucityoflandforbuildingduetothesteepterrainmeantthatland-reclamationprojectsgotunderwayasearlyas1851.In1904,thefirstlandreclamationwascompletedinwhatisnowtheareaofChater,ConnaughtandDesVoeuxroads.In1929,anotherreclamationprojectwascompletedinWanChai.Todayaround6percentofHongKong’slandhasbeenreclaimedfromthesea.

TurbulenttimesFromthebeginningofthe20thcentury,Chinaexperiencedaseriesofpoliticalupheavals.In1900,apeasantuprisingknownastheBoxerRebellionseriouslychallengedtheauthorityofthecreakyandcorruptQinggovernment,whichcollapsedforgoodafewyearslater.In1911SunYat-senestablishedtheRepublicofChina.(AlthoughSunYat-sentravelledtoHongKongmanytimestoenlistsupportforhiscause,hisrevolutiondidnothavemuchimpactontheBritishcolony.)

ThePrinceofWalesiscarriedinaChineselitterthroughthestreetsenroutetoGovernmentHouse,1922.PAPhotos

Between1920andthelate1940slifeinChinawasdominatedbyconflict.Thelong-runningcivilwarbetweenMaoZedong’sCommunistParty(foundedin1921)andtheNationalists(Guomintang),ledbyChiangKaishek,dividedthecountry.TheJapaneseinvasionin1937,andWorldWarII,broughtterriblesuffering.InDecember1941JapanesetroopsattackedHongKongfromthenorth;AlliedforceswithdrewfromtheNewTerritoriesandKowloontoHongKongIsland.After18daysoffighting,theBritishforcessurrenderedonChristmasDay.TheJapaneseOccupationlastedforthreeyearsandeightmonths,duringwhichtimeallBritishandAlliednationalswereinternedincampsandtwo-thirdsofHongKong’sChinesepopulationfledtoChina.

ThedividebetweentheBritishcolonialadministrativeandbusinessdistricts(Central)andtheChinesecommercial“bazaar”areas(Western)werewellestablishedbythe1860s

andcanstillbediscernedtoday.

Duringtheoccupation,HongKong’stradevirtuallystopped,thecurrencylostitsvalueandfoodsupplieswerelimited.ChineseguerrillasfoughtagainsttheinvadersintheNewTerritories,andvillagershelpedforeignerstoescape.UnderanagreementbetweenJapanandPortugal,Macaubecameneutralterritory,andsomeEuropeansfoundrefugehereduringthewar.

InAugust1945,aftertheJapanesesurrender,theRoyalNavyarrivedinHongKongtore-establishBritishruleoverabatteredcolonywithapopulationofjust600,000.

Post-warHongKongAfterthewar,HongKongChinesewhohadescapedtothosemainlandareasbeyondJapanesecontrolreturnedinlargenumbers.China’scivilwar,whichresurfacedin1946soonaftertheJapanesesurrender,drovemorepeople–includingaffluentShanghaientrepreneurs,shippingmagnatesandpropertytycoons–intotheBritishterritory.By1949,thepopulationhadswelledto2million.

Refugeesandmigrants

Formuchofthe20thcentury,HongKongwasaplaceofrefugefromthechaosinChina.Thecivilwarofthe1930sbroughtlargenumbersofrefugeesfromsouthernareas,butthispaledincomparisonwiththeinfluxthattookplacebetween1945and1950,whenmorethan1.5millionChinesefloodedsouth.Thisexpandedthesupplyofcheaplabour,thoughasignificantnumberofémigrésweresavvybusinessmen,notablyfromShanghai.Seenasmodern-dayrivals,HongKongandShanghaishareadeepaffinity,bornofthispost-warinflux,andmanyaspectsofmodernHongKongculturecanbeseenasacontinuationofaShanghaiculturethatexistedbefore1949andtheCommunistrevolution.

After1950,regulationswereintroducedtolimitnumbers,yetthroughoutthe1960sand’70speoplecontinuedtoarriveattheLoWuborderpost,desperatetoescapepoverty.Somesucceeded,butafternumbersshotupbetween1978and1980,thedoorwasfirmlyshut.ThefocusthenswitchedtotheVietnameseboatpeople,arrivingbyseaandhousedinrefugeecampsuntilforcedrepatriationinthe1990s.Post-1997,movementbetweenthePRCandtheSARiscontrolled,butfluid.Formoreonimmigration,formoreinformation,clickhere.

InOctober1949,MaoZedongdeclaredtheestablishmentofthePeople’sRepublicofChina,andthedefeatedNationalistsfledtoTaiwan.TheUnitedNationsimposedanembargoontradewithChina,withseriousconsequencesforHongKong’seconomy.Ashifttomanufacturingproveditssaviour,withthehundredsofthousandsofrefugeesprovidingcheaplabourfortextilefactoriessetupbyChineseentrepreneurs.

Withhundredsofthousandsofpeoplelivinginsquattercamps,aseriesoffiresculminatedinthe1953ShekKipMeifire,whichleft53,000homelessandledthecolonialgovernmenttofast-trackitspublichousingpolicy.Soonthefirsthigh-risenewtownswerebeingplannedanddeveloped.

Bythe1960sthetextileandgarmentindustriesaccountedformorethanhalfofthecolony’sexports.Themanufactureofplastictoysalsobecameimportant.Atthesametime,thesituationinChinawasbecomingevermoredesperate,withfaminebringinganotherwaveofimmigrantstoHongKong.Thistimethenumberswerealarming,andthecolonialgovernmenttrieddesperatelytokeepthemout.FormostoftheHongKongpopulation,thestandardofliving

themout.FormostoftheHongKongpopulation,thestandardoflivingcontinuedtoriseduringthe1960s,instarkcontrasttotheirrelativesonthemainland.

DuringtheVietnamWarinthelate1960sandearly1970s,USNavyvessels,enroutetoorfromVietnam,wereafamiliarsightinVictoriaHarbour,andAmericansoldiersheadedtobarsandnightclubsoftheWanChaiandTsimShaTsuiforR&R.

Atthistime,ChinawasravagedbytheCulturalRevolution,andtheturmoildriftedintoHongKong,wheretensionseruptedintoaseriesofdisturbancesinthemid-1960s,andalsotoMacauwhereRedGuardswagedapropagandawarwithpostersandslogans,callingontheChineseresidentstostartarevolution.Thechaosalmostparalysedtheeconomy,butbytheendof1967,theunresthadbeenmoreorlessquelled.

1970sand1980s

Startinginthelate1970sandcontinuingthroughthe1980s,HongKong’seconomydevelopedatanamazingpace,asitexpandeditsroleasanentrepôtwithitsneighboursandasChina’stradingpartner.ThiswasmadepossiblebygreaterstabilityinChina,andtherapideconomicadvancethereduetoDengXiaoping’spragmaticpolicies.HongKongbegantoplayavitalroleasChina’swindowtotheworldandtheworld’sgatewaytoChina.AnincreasingnumberoflocalbusinessesbeganinvestinginfactoriesinthePRC,wherelabourandrawmaterialswerecheaper.

Tokeeppacewitheconomicdevelopment,infrastructurewasimproved,andtheterritorywastransformedintoamodern,efficientandcosmopolitancity.Thegovernmentincreaseditsinvestmentineducation,housingandothersocialwelfareprojects.AnefficientcivilservicesystemintroducedbytheBritishgovernmentplayedamajorroleintheeconomicboom,aidedbytheIndependentCommissionAgainstCorruption(ICAC),setupin1974.

Bythe1980s,theHongKonggovernmentenjoyednear-completeautonomyfromLondon,andevenhadthepowertoconcludecertainnegotiationswithforeignpowers.Thecolonyregularlynegotiateditsowneconomicagreementswithothercountries,andwasadmittedintoseveralinternationalfinancialinstitutions,suchastheAsianDevelopmentBank.

Anxietiesandthebuild-uptodialoguewithChina

Anxietiesandthebuild-uptodialoguewithChinaAmidalltheprosperity,however,wasaninescapableanxietyoverthefuture,withthe1997expiryofthe99-yearleaseontheNewTerritoriesloominglarge.Bytheearly1980s,lifeinHongKongwasdominatedbytheissueofitsreturntoChina.MostofthelocalpopulationwouldhavepreferredtostayunderBritishruleratherthanembracethecommunistregime.AlthoughtheywereunhappywiththefactthatBritishcompaniesandexpatriateshadenjoyedprivilegesinbusinessandingovernmentpositions,peopleappreciatedbeingabletocompeteinafreemarket.Havingescapedextremepovertyor,insomecases,politicalpersecution,theyfearedgoingbacktothecommunistsystem.Buttheirdestinywasnotintheirownhands.

ChinahadalwaysmaintaineditsstancethatitwouldtakebackHongKongwhenthetimewas“ripe”.Bytheearly1980s,themomentseemedtohavearrived,andBeijingbecameintentonexpunging150yearsofhumiliation.

AlthoughChinarefusedPortugal’soffertoreturnMacauinthemid-1970sforfearofdestabilisingHongKong,circumstanceshadchangedbythe1980s.NowChina’sleadersbeganthinking

aboutgettingHongKongback.

NegotiatingthereturnMargaretThatcher’svisittoBeijingin1982formallylaunchedthediscussiononwhatwouldhappentoHongKongafterthe99-yearleaseontheNewTerritories,nine-tenthsofthecolony,expiredin1997.Thereactiontothenewsthatthecolony’sfuturewasbeingnegotiatedwastypicalofHongKong–thelocalstockmarketnosedived.

InSeptember1984,aftertwoyearsofoftenacrimoniousnegotiations,BritainandChinacametoanagreement,theJointDeclaration,whichformallyagreedthereturnofthecolonytoChinain1997.TheDeclarationstipulatedthatHongKong’swayoflifewouldremainunchangedfor50years,thattheterritorywouldbecomeaSpecialAdministrativeRegion(SAR)andcontinuetoenjoya“highdegreeofautonomy”–exceptinforeignaffairsanddefence–andthatChina’ssocialistsystemandpolicieswouldnotbeimposed.AsDengXiaopingputit,“Horseswillkeepracing,andnightclubdancingwillcontinue.”

putit,“Horseswillkeepracing,andnightclubdancingwillcontinue.”

MargaretThatchermeetsDengXiaopingin1982todiscusstheSino-BritishJointDeclaration.GettyImages

PlansweredrawnupforHongKong’sadministrationintheyearsrunningupto1997.KeypointsincludedelectionstotheLegislativeCouncil(Legco),theDistrictBoardsandnewRegionalCouncils.Beijingsoonappointedacommitteeof59members,only23ofwhomwerefromHongKong,todraftthemini-constitution–knownastheBasicLaw–fortheSAR.Inmilitarymatters,Britainannounceditwouldphaseoutitsgarrison,whileChinasaidthePeople’sLiberationArmy(PLA)wouldbestationedinHongKongafterthehandover.

DuringHongKong’sfirstLegcoelectionsin1985,initiatedbytheBritish,24ofthe56memberstooktheirplacesthroughindirectelections.Outofatotalpopulationof5.5millionatthetime,only70,000peoplewereeligibletovoteunderHongKong’srestrictedsystemofindirectelections.Ofthatnumber,only47,000registeredtovoteandonly25,000actuallywenttothepolls.Nevertheless,thiselectionstartedadebateaboutwhethertheHongKonggovernmentwouldallowopenelectionstotakeplacein1988,ashadbeenpromised.

ThedemocracyquestionandthebraindrainBythelate1980s,Chinawasbeginningtoworryabouttheterritory’sfledgling

Bythelate1980s,Chinawasbeginningtoworryabouttheterritory’sfledglingattemptsatdemocracy.Beijing’stopmanintheterritory,LuPing,insistedthatBritainwasdeviatingfromtheJointDeclarationandarousingfearandanxietyamongstHongKong’speople.Amidthepoliticaltension,however,HongKong’seconomycontinuedtothrive.

TheBritishgovernmentwanteddirectelectionstobeheldbefore1997.Increasinglyirritated,BeijingeventuallydeclaredthatpoliticalchangesnotconsistentwiththeBasicLawwouldbenullifiedin1997.DengXiaopingaddedthatuniversalsuffragemightnotbebeneficialforHongKong.

InJune1989,theChinesegovernmentcrushedapro-democracydemonstrationcentredinBeijing’sTiananmenSquare.Horrifiedbythebrutality,1millionpeopletooktothestreetsinHongKongtoprotest.

ThemassacreexacerbatedtheHongKongbraindrain,withlargenumbersleavingtheterritoryannuallyinthenextfewyears.Attheendof1989,BritainsaiditwouldgrantBritishcitizenshiptojust225,000HongKongChinesebeforeHongKongrevertedtoChina.In1990,about60,000ofHongKong’smostaccomplishedprofessionalsmovedoverseas(oftentosecurepassports),mainlytoCanadaandAustralia.BritaincalledonitsalliestoacceptHongKongimmigrants;theUnitedStatesamendeditsimmigrationlawstoincreaseHongKong’squotato10,000annuallyuntil1994and20,000thereafter.TheHongkong&ShanghaiBank(HSBC),theterritory’slargest,moveditsHQtoBritain,generallyseenasreflectingthecompany’slackofconfidenceinHongKong’sfuture.

Fundingthenewairport

Atthestartofthe1990sitseemedthatbarelyadaywentbywithoutsomewranglingbetweenBritain,HongKongandChinaoverwhowastofootthebillforthehugelyexpensivenewairportunderconstructionatChekLapKok,offthecoastofLantauIsland.

ToboosttheeconomyandrestoreconfidencebatteredbytheTiananmenSquaremassacre,theHongKonggovernmentannounceditwouldbuildanewairport,scheduledforcompletioninearly1997atanestimatedcostofHK$78billion.Chinaattackedthescheme,insistingthatitshouldbeconsultedbecauseitsfutureSARgovernmentmightbesaddledwithdebt.

GovernmentrepresentativespaidmanyvisitstoBeijingtowinapprovalfortheproject,allthetimetryingnottoappearasiftheyweregrovelling.Chinawasunrelenting.Finally,in1991,BeijingandLondonannouncedthatanunderstandinghadbeenreached,although–likethe1984Sino-BritishAgreement–itsconclusionwaswithoutHongKong’sparticipation.Chinagaveitssupportfortheairportinexchangeforfiscalguaranteesandaplaceontheairportauthority’sboard.

Almosttwodecadeson,itallappearstohavebeenworthwhile–ChekLapKokisuniversallyacclaimedasoneoftheworld’smostefficientairports,andplaysalargepartinHongKong’scontinuingsuccess.

DirectelectionsLondontriedtokeepearlierpromisesofdemocraticreformwithoutprovokingChina’sdispleasureatfreeelectionsforLegco.Pushedbybuddingpoliticalawarenessamongitscitizens,theHongKonggovernmentagreedtospeeduptheprocess,sayingitwouldput18seatsupfordirectelectionsin1991.

Afternumerousconsultations,thetwogovernmentsagreedinearly1990thatmemberselectedtoLegcoin1995wouldserveuntiltheirtermendedin1999,twoyearsafterthehandover,andthattheywouldbeamongthe400peoplewhowouldselectHongKong’sfirstpost-1997handoverChiefExecutive.ChinalaterrenegedontheagreementafterGovernorChrisPattencarriedoutelectoralreformsagainstBeijing’swishes;ChinareplacedtheelectedLegcowithaBeijing-appointedprovisionallegislature.

Beijing-appointedprovisionallegislature.

MartinLee,pro-democracypolitician.GettyImages

InJune1991,HongKong’snewBillofRightsbackingthe“rightsandfreedoms”guaranteedinthe1984Sino-BritishAgreementbecamelaw,despiteChina’sinsistencethatthemovewasagainsttheprinciplesstatedintheBasicLaw,HongKong’spost-handoverconstitution.

ThefirstdirectelectionsinLegco’s150-yearhistorytookplaceinSeptember1991.Forthefirsttime,theincumbentgovernmentfacedoppositionandthepotentialoflegislativedefeatsfromtheoppositionunderbarristerMartinLee.China,inanot-too-subtlemove,advisedvoterstotakecandidates’“attitudestowardthemainland”intoaccountwhencastingtheirvotes.Thecommentwaswidelyinterpretedasacalltovoteforthepro-Beijingcandidatesandnotthoseofthepro-democracycamprepresentedbyLee’sUnitedDemocrats.Unimpressed,votersdemonstratedtheirindependencebygiving15ofthe18seatsupfordirectelectiontopro-democracycandidates.

StreetdemonstrationsfollowingthedeathsatTiananmenSquarein1989.GettyImages

PattenandthehandoverInApril1992,Britain’sConservativePartychairmanChrisPattenwasnamedHongKong’slastgovernor–thefirsttimeapoliticianinsteadofadiplomathadbeengiventhepost.

Patten’sarrivalheraldedthemosttenseperiodinrelationsbetweenBritainandChina.ChampioningthedemocraticrightsoftheHongKongpeopleputhimunerringlyontoacollisioncoursewithBeijing.AlowpointwasreachedwhentheChinesegovernmentdeclaredthatallcontracts,leasesandagreementssignedorratifiedbytheBritishHongKongadministrationwithouttheapprovalofChinawouldnotbehonouredafter30June1997,thelastdayofBritain’srule.Beijingalsopointeditsaccusingfingerattheprivatesector,includingtheBritishcompanyJardines,whichitaccusedofsupportingPatten’spoliticalagendaand

damagingtheinternationalcommunity’sconfidenceinHongKong’sfuture.FormoreonPattenandthehandover,formoreinformation,clickhere.

AloopholeintheRightofAbodesectionoftheBasicLawledtomanymainlandrelativesofHongKongcitizenstryingtobeinHongKongby1Julytoclaimresidency.MigrationbecameblurredasHongKongcompaniessoughtouttalentedprofessionalsfromthemainland,andHongKongersmovedtoChina,ortravelledtherefrequently,totakeadvantageofbusinessopportunitiesinthenewboomingChina.

TheHongKongflagisloweredduringthehandoverofHongKongtoChinesecontrolafteryearsofBritishcolonialrule.GettyImages

SeveralopinionpollstakenshortlybeforethehandovershowedthatmostHongKongpeoplewouldhavepreferredtoremainunderBritishruleiftheycouldcontroltheirowndestiny,althoughitwasdeemedpoliticallycorrecttosaytheylovedthemotherland.AndalthoughmanywerescepticalthatBeijingwouldkeepitspromisetoletHongKong’spoliticalsystemcontinueforanother50years,mostpeoplehaddecidedtoaccepttherealityandadapt,awarethat

50years,mostpeoplehaddecidedtoaccepttherealityandadapt,awarethattheirfutureeconomicsuccesswasinextricablytiedtoChina.

Endofempire

ThehandoverofHongKongtoChinasawmorecelebrationsthanatanyothertimeintheterritory’shistory.MostHongKongersforgotthepoliticsandrevelledintheoccasion.AsmidnightapproachedonJune30,1997,mostmajorfigureswhohad,orweretohave,ahandinHongKong’sfuturegatheredintheHongKongConventionandExhibitionCentre.

Justbeforemidnight,theUnionJackdescendedastheBritishmilitarybandplayed“GodSavetheQueen”.ChrisPattenshookhandswiththecrowdsbeforeboardingtheroyalyacht.Insidetheconventioncentre,civilservantssworeallegiancetothePeople’sRepublicofChinainMandarin.

Thenextmorning,People’sLiberationArmytroopscrossedovertheborder,welcomedbyvillagersliningtheroads.

Finally,thedayarrived:journalistsfromallovertheworldflewintocovertheevents,whiletherewasfeveredlast-minuteactivitytocompletetheConventionCentreintimefortheceremony.Aslightlysurrealpartyatmosphere,buildingovertheprecedingweeks,tookover.

Thelastgovernor

ChrisPattenboughtthesavvyofaWestminsterpoliticiantoLondon’slastmajorcolonialoutpost.Hisgovernorshipwasperhapshisgreatestpoliticalachievement.

ChrisPatten,HongKong’slastgovernorforthefiveturbulentyearsleadinguptothehandover,tookoverfromDavidWilsonin1992withtheavowedaimofprotectingtheinterestsoftheHongKongpeople.Unlikehispredecessors,whohadarriveddeckedoutinfullceremonialdress(plumedhelmetandall),Pattenworeadark

ceremonialdress(plumedhelmetandall),Pattenworeadarkbusinesssuit–discreetlymodernisingtheimageoftheofficeofgovernorinHongKongintheprocess.Despite,orperhapsbecauseofsomeofhisunorthodoxways,Pattensoonprovedtobeapopularleader.Insteadofsittinginhisoffice,hewentoutintothestreetstomeetordinarypeople,listenedtotheiropinionsandheldquestion-and-answersessionsinpublicduringwhichheaddressedpoliticallysensitiveissueswithacandid,sometimescontroversialattitude.

Pattenannouncedvariousproposalsforincreasedspendingonwelfare,health,housingandtheenvironment.Themostcontroversialmove,however,washisproposaltoreformthepoliticalsystem.Chinawantednosuchshifttowardsgreaterdemocracy,andopenlyattackedPatten’spoliticalreforms.Asaresult,theHangSengIndexdroppedabout5percentinOctober1992,andbrokerswarnedthatunlessPattenmadeaU-turnonhispushforgreaterdemocracy,thestockmarketcouldsufferfurther.

ElectoralreformsIn1994,LegcopassedPatten’sproposedelectoralreformsbyanarrowmargin,invitingstrongcondemnationfromChina.Thereformswereahalfwaypointbetweenfulldirectelectionsforallmembersofthelegislatureandamoremutedelectoralplan.Legcoremainedfarfrombeingadirectlyelectedlegislature,butthechangewasstillenoughtodrawmorecriticismfromChina.

TheelectoralreformwasPatten’slastmajoractinoffice.AsChinabegantoplayanincreasinglyimportantroleinHongKongsocietyandthebusinesssectorscompetedwitheachothertogetonBeijing’sgoodside,Pattenwassidelined.Beijingsimplyrefusedtotalktohim,makingitdifficultforhimtotakeanyfurtheraction.

DespitethemanyhumiliatinginsultstheChineseleadersthrewhiswayduringhisfiveyearsinoffice,Patten’spoliticalreformsandpersonalcharismawonhimtherespectofHongKong’sresidents.AttheBritishfarewellceremonyonthenightof30June1997,Patten’sforcefulfarewellspeechreceivedlongapplausefromthecrowd,andpeopleshouted“Wewillmissyou”asheandPrinceCharlesboarded

theroyalyachtBritanniaforEngland.

Witheverypassingyear,thehandoverfeelsmoreandmorelikeancienthistory.Theshiftofsovereigntywasfollowed,coincidentally,byaneconomicdowntown,butprosperityhassincereturnedandHongKonghasrarelylookedbackasitmovesforward.Pattenwouldbeproudthatpoliticalawarenessandcivicpridehaveheightenedoverrecentyears.He’dalsounderstandthebasiclawofHongKonglife:theeconomyremainsking.

FarewellspeechattheBritishHandoverCeremony;PrinceCharleslookson.GettyImages

Post-handoverTheSAR’sfirstchiefexecutivewasselectedbyaBeijing-appointedcommitteeatthebeginningof1997fromachoiceofthreecandidates.TungChee-hwa,aShanghai-bornshippingtycoonwhohadreceivedfinancialhelpfromChinainhisearlierbusinessdays,wastheobviouscandidatefromearlyon.Tung–alongwithhisChiefSecretaryAnsonChanandFinancialSecretaryDonaldTsang–

withhisChiefSecretaryAnsonChanandFinancialSecretaryDonaldTsang–hadpreviouslybeenamemberofthecolonialgovernmentappointedbyPatten.

Legcowasdismantledon1July1997,andreplacedwithaBeijing-appointedprovisionallegislature.Aftertakingoffice,TungannouncedanewvotingsystemforHongKong’sfirstlegislativeelection,setforMay1998,thatgavethebiggestsaytobusinessgroups,amovebelievedtohavebeendesignedtosidelinethemostpopularparty,theDemocrats.

Freespeech(anti-Article23)protests,July2003.iStock

HongKongintothe21stcenturyBeforethehandover,apopularviewwasthatHongKongundercommunistChinawouldundergopoliticalchanges,whileremainingstableandprosperouseconomically.Whathappenedinthemonthsafterthehandoverwasjusttheopposite.Therewerefewpoliticalconfrontations,apartfromsomedissentconcerningthemake-upoftheSAR’sfirstlegislativebody,andthePLAkeptalowprofileinitsbarracks.However,inlate1997andthrough1998HongKongexperiencedamajoreconomiccrisis,asdidmanyAsiancountries.TheHangSengIndexdropped6,000points–about40percent.

Aslowrecoverybeganin1999,butevenby2003theeconomywasstillinthedoldrums,unemploymenthadsoaredand,inanironicreversalofhistory,manylocalsbeganseekingworkonthemainland.FromMarchtoMay2003the

manylocalsbeganseekingworkonthemainland.FromMarchtoMay2003theSARSvirusepidemiccausedpanicacrosstheregion–theHongKongpublicworesurgicalmasksandplasticglovesoutdoors,andtouristnumbersdriedtoatrickle.

Asthecityrecovered,agrowingfrustrationwiththegovernment’shandlingoftheSARSoutbreakandinparticularitsproposaltointroducecontroversialanti-subversionlawsbroughtmorethan500,000peacefuldemonstratorsontothestreetstoprotestagainsttheplanson1July2003.Theplanswereshelvedandtheministerresponsible,ReginaIp,resignedwithinthemonth.Thefollowingyear200,000marchedandestablishedthetraditionofannualJuly1marches,callingformoredemocracyandvotingreforms.

HongKong’simprovingeconomicfortunesarelargelythankstothedouble-digitgrowthinChina’seconomy,andincreasedChinesetouristarrivals.Yetthissuccessdidlittletohelpthechiefexecutive.Unabletoregainthepublic’sconfidence,TungChee-hwasteppeddowninearly2005.

Demonstratorsprotestingagainstperceivedpro-Chinesechangestotheschoolcurriculumin2012.Dreamstime

Hisreplacement,appointedbyBeijing,wasDonaldTsang,adevoutCatholicandcareercivilservant.BorninHongKong,Tsangwasmorecomfortabledealingwithpressandpublicthanhispredecessor.Whilehispopularityremainedrelativelyhighthroughouthistenure,Tsangdidn’tdodgecontroversyentirely.Hispoliticalreformpackageattractedvociferouspro-democracy

entirely.Hispoliticalreformpackageattractedvociferouspro-democracydemonstrations,whichdemandedthatadatewassetforelectingLegcobyuniversalsuffrage.Tsanghimselfwasreelectedaschiefexecutivein2007bya800-strongcommitteelargelyloyaltoBeijing.Inareversaloffortunes,Tsanghassincebeenembroiledinanumberofhigh-profilecorruptioncharges;hewasfoundguiltyofmisconductinpublicofficein2017andsentencedto20monthsinprison.

InSeptember2012,LeungChun-ying,orC.YLeung,becamethethirdchiefexecutiveoftheSAR,electedfromanexpanded1,200-strongvotingcommittee.Incontrasttopreviouselections,thecontestwasmarkedbytabloid-stylescandalandmud-slinging.Leungwasthesecond-choicecandidateforlongperiodsbeforeaseriesofblundersandcorruptionallegationsscupperedthechancesofhisrival,TangYing-yen.Leungfacedsometoughearlydecisions,optingtobackdownonplanstomakeallHongKongschoolchildrentakeChina“patriotism”classes,andtakingahard-lineontheincreasingtrendofpregnantmainlandmotherscrossingthebordertogivebirth–bothissueswhichhadsparkedprotestsintheprecedingmonths.

Pro-democracyprotestsFurtherprotests,thelargestseeninadecade,ensuedin2013–14.BennyTaiYiu-ting,AssociateProfessorofLawattheUniversityofHongKong,launchedacivildisobediencecampaignandstartedtheOccupyCentralwithLoveandPeacemovementtopressureBeijingandtheSARadministrationtointroduceuniversalsuffrage.Protests(UmbrellaRevolution)continuedinSeptember–December2014,resultingintheSARpromisingtosubmita“NewOccupancyreport”totheChineseCentralGovernment.InJanuary2015aproposalforelectoralreformwasannounced,butitwasneverimplemented.InalatermovethatangeredBeijing,USlawmakersputforwardstudentprotestleaders(JoshuaWong,NathanLawandAlexChow)andtheirpro-democracyUmbrellaMovementasnomineesforthe2018NobelPeacePrize.

ThepeopleofHongKongremainedunabletoselecttheirowncandidateinthe2017elections;Beijing-supportedCarrieLamwasappointedasthechiefexecutivebytheElectionCommitteeandnotbypublicvote.Meanwhile,inaworryingdevelopment,theHongKongNationalPartywasbannedin2018–thefirstrestrictionofitskindtotakeeffectsinceHongKongwasreturnedtotheChinese.

CarrieLamandhercabinetaresworninon1July2017.GettyImages

Onecountry,twosystems?In2017HongKongmarkedthetwentiethanniversaryoftheestablishmentoftheSARwithbothfireworksandaprotest.Eventoday,despitethe“onecountrytwosystems”,theChinesenationalanthemplaysatthestartoftheday’stelevisionbroadcast,thePRCflagfliesalongsidetheHongKongBauhinia,andtheschoolcurriculumhaschangedtoincludetheBasicLawandPutonghua.CantonesehasreplacedEnglishasthelanguageofinstructioninmostschools,andspeakinggoodMandarinisnowatleastasimportantashavinggoodEnglishforthoselookingtogeton.MandarinisheardmoreonthestreetsofHongKongnow,inpartbecause45.8millionChinesetouristsvisiteachyear.

Analystssay“threeflowsfromChina”arenowdrivingHongKong’seconomy–goods,visitorsandcapital.In2010themovebacktoHongKongfromLondonofHSBC’sCEOwasseenashighlysymbolicoftheshiftinthe

fromLondonofHSBC’sCEOwasseenashighlysymbolicoftheshiftintheworld’seconomiccentreofgravitytoChina.

AgenerationthatcannotrememberHongKongasanythingbutpartofChinaiscomingofage,asagrowingsenseofcivicidentityisexpressedthroughissuessuchasheritageconservationandthepreservationofstreetmarkets.Thereisalsoincreasedconcernabouttheenvironment,inparticularwhatcanbedonetoreducepollutioninacitywhosehazeobscuresitsiconicviewsalltoooften,andwhereroadsidepollutionreachesdangerouslyhighlevels.

Thenewgenerationarealsosufficientlyconfident,andsavvyintheiruseoftheinternetandsocialmedia,toco-ordinatelarge-scalepoliticalprotests.TheJuly1marchesareseenasanestablishedannualevent.Onlythetargetschange.

HongKongisafoodlover’sparadise.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

CultureandSociety

HongKongersareproudoftheirChineseculture,onewhichemphasiseshardwork,theroleofthefamilyand–notleast–thepursuitoffinancial

success.Asathoroughlyinternationalcity,HongKongisalsoopentoinfluenceswhichhaveproducedsomeuniqueculturalquirks.

Forallitsmodernityanddynamism,HongKong’scultureandsocietyareunderpinnedbyastrongfoundationoftraditionalChinesevaluesandbeliefs.TheConfucianconceptsofhumility,perseverance,reverenceforancestorsandrespectforeldershavebeenadaptedtoitsmodern,capitalistsociety.Confuciussaidthatapersonshouldalwaysexaminemotivescarefullybeforeacting,sinceallindividualsaredirectlyresponsiblefortheirfate.AstheteachingsofthegreatsagepermeatedintoChinesesocietyoverthecenturies,thishasledtoabeliefthatanythingcanbeachievedthroughsheerwillandhardwork.Theattitudeis,“Ifyoudon’thaveanymoney,thengooutandearnsome!”ratherthanrelyingongovernmentsupportorcharitytoprovidefinancialassistance.

Withthisworkethicinmind,manyparentsworkatleastnineortenhoursaday,sixdaysaweektoprovidefortheirchildrenwhowill,oneday,lookaftertheminoldage.Mostofthefamilybudgetgoestowardschildren’sclothing,healthcareandeducation,sothattheymayenjoywhattheirparentsneverhadintheiryouth.Childrenareexpectedtosupporttheirelderlyparentsandtohonourthememoryofdeceasedparentsbyregularlyvisitingtheirgravesandmakingofferings.

Familyvaluesareverystrong,andparentsdoteontheirchildrenbyspendingtimeandmoneyonthem.OnSundaysandholidays,parentstakethewholefamily,withgrandparentsintow,forWestern-stylebuffetsordimsum.Afterlunch,familieswanderaroundthestreetsandshoppingmalls,buyingnewtoysandclothesforthechildren.

What’sinaname?

OneofHongKong’sodderculturalquirksistherangeofeccentricEnglishnicknameschosenbytheHongKongChinese:Biscuit,Photosynthesis,Frandie,Wealthy,Xerox,Tweetie…ThisisinparttheresultofadesiretoembracetheEnglish-speakingworld,andinpartawayofidentifyingwithaparticularrespectedfigure,ahobbyorinterest.

EmulationofthefamousandsuccessfulaccountsfortheplethoraofJackieChansintheterritory,andmayalsoexplainsomeoftheWilsons–afterthecolony’spenultimateBritishgovernor.SeeminglygauchenamessuchasLuckyorWealthyortheno-nonsenseMoneyrepresenttheaspirationsofapeoplewhohaveonlyenjoyedprosperityforacoupleofgenerations.

Humourisapparentwithnamesthatechotheindividual’sChinesename,suchasWinkyWong(aversionofWongWing-keethathasbeenusedbymorethanoneHongKonger).Sometimesthenamepunsonthefamilyname,asinGypsyLeeorIvanHo.Hobbiesorinterestscanplayarole,scientificprocessesclearlybeingoffascinationtoPhotosynthesisWong.Fandie,AnkieandBandarepresentadesiretobetheonlypersonintheentireworldtohaveacertainname.Andthentherearethedownrightpeculiarbutmemorable,suchasOnions,SquashorCatherine(aman).

AffluentyoungHongKongers.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

MoneyandstatusSuccessivefamines,warsandpoliticalupheavalinChinahavetaughttheHongKongChinesenottobecomplacentaboutfinancialsecurity.Theyareeagle-eyedatspottingopportunitiesformakingmoney;here“filthylucre”reallydoesseemtobuyhappiness,sincematerialsecurityisvitaltoone’ssenseofwell-being.Thereisnootherplaceintheworldwherepeople,richorpoor,areasbusiness-mindedandclued-upaboutproperty,stocksandhorse-racing.It’snocoincidencethatkungheifatchoi–literally“congratulationsonyourwealth”–isacommongreetingatLunarNewYear.Asinmostplacesintheworld,ofcourse,thequestforwealthisalsomotivatedbyself-respector“face”.Wearingdesignerlabelsandbuyingexpensivedishesinarestaurant,suchaslobster,abaloneandshark’sfin,areallwaysofshowingyouhavewealth.Attheendofameal,dinerswillfighttopaythebill,sincegenerosityalsogainsface.Faceandguanxi–lifelongobligationsofmutualassistance–arecrucialtorelationships.That’swhytheChineseprefertogivebusinesstofamilyandfriendsratherthandealwithstrangers,whomightprovetobeunreliable.Infriendsthereiscertainty.

HongKonghasoneoftheworld’shighestpopulationdensitiesandmostpeopleliveinpublichousing.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ThepublicpersonaManyforeignersvisitingHongKonghavecomplainedthatthepeoplearesometimesbrusquetothepointofrudeness.Thishasoftenbeenaresultofculturalmisunderstandings,butnotalways.HongKongdoesnothavethe“haveaniceday”culture,andchit-chatabouttheweatherseemsunnecessarywhenthere’sbusinesstobedone.Evenso,therehasbeenacampaigntoimprovepolitenesstomeettourists’expectations.ThecustomerserviceinmanyofHongKong’shotelsandrestaurantsissecondtonone.

LayingofferingsatWongTaiSinTemple.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Propertyandthecostofliving

PropertyandthecostoflivingForfinancialreasons,HongKongersoftenmarrylaterthanmainlandChinese–forwomen,29isatypicalage,formen,31.Becauseofhighpropertyprices,mostpeople,evenmarriedcouples,havenochoicebuttolivewiththeirparentsuntiltheyhavesavedenoughmoney.Crampedlivingconditions,however,makelifedifficultforwould-belovers.Momentsalonearerare,andthepryingeyesofrelativesarenotconducivetoromance.Peopleoftensocialiseinlargemixedgroups;parksarefewandfarbetween,sobusyanonymousplacessuchasmallsorlargethemeparksofferachancetobealone.

Lackofspace

HongKongisoneoftheworld’smostcrowdedenvironments,withcorrespondinglyexpensivepropertyandoftencrampedlivingconditions.OverhalfofHongKong’spopulationlivesinpublichousing,wherefamiliesbenefitfromlowrents(theaveragemonthlyrentforpublichousingisHK$1,540)aswellassharedincomefromfamilymembers,andarethusrelativelywell-offcomparedtolow-incomefamiliesinotherpartsoftheworld.However,lower-middle-classfamiliesareoftencaught:theydonotqualifyforpublichousing,andmostpropertypricesarewaybeyondtheirbudget.Theaverageapartmentisjust500sqft(48sqmetres),enoughforalivingarea,smallkitchenandone,sometimestwo,smallbedrooms.

ThisisacapitalistsocietywhereDarwin’stheoryofthe“survivalofthefittest”predominates.Localtaxlawsgiveresidentsincentivetobeamongthosethatnotonlysurvive,butthrive.Residentskeepmostofwhattheyearn–thehighestincome-taxrateis17percent,andonlyaround2percentoftheworkingpopulationpaysthis,withoverhalfpayingnoincometaxatall.

HustleandbustleisdailylifeinHongKong,buteventhebusiestpeoplestopforashoeshine.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

However,HongKonghasahighcostoflivingduetolimitedland,theexpenseofimportingrawmaterialsandfoodandhighdutiesimposedonpetrolandcars.Ontheotherhand,thereisnosalestax,andpublictransportischeap.Luxurygoodsscorehighpointsinthe“face”game,andsomepeoplewillgladlyblowalltheirdisposableincomeonaLouisVuittonbageveniftheycan’tthenaffordmuchelse.

HongKonghassteadilyexpandedinareaasatotalof70sqkm(27sqmiles)hasbeen

reclaimedfromthesea.Around70percentofthishastakenplacesince1980.

Landpriceshavealwaysbeenhigh,aresultoftheshortageofsuitableterrainforconstruction.Thegovernmentmakeshugeprofitsonlandsales–asituationwhichfuelsthedesireformoreandmorelandtobereclaimedfromthesea.ThelargestandmostsuccessfulHongKongcompanies,suchasCheungKongandSunHungKai,havebuilttheirfortunesuponthissystem.

PerformanceattheAvenueofStars,whichismodelledontheHollywoodWalkofFame.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

SocialwelfareandhealthHongKongmaybeoneoftheworld’swealthiestcities,butnotallshareinitsprosperity.Anestimated150,000,mostlyelderlypeople,liveininadequatehousing,withtheworst-offinshacksorso-called“cages”(withroomforabedandnothingelse,andusuallypackedseveraltoaroom),oroutonthestreets.

Thereisawelfaresystemfortheelderly,withpaymentsofHK$2,495–5,450permonth.TheMandatoryProvidentFund,introducedin1999,forcesemployeestoinvestupto5percentoftheirsalaryforretirementwhenthefundcanbewithdrawnasalumpsum.

PrimarymedicalcareislargelytakencareofbyprivateGPsinHongKong,while90percentofhospitaladmissionsareatgovernment-subsidisedhospitals.Theproblemofovercrowdedpublicwardsandlongwaitinglistshasdrawnagreatdealofcriticism,however,andthishasledtosubstantialgrowthinprivatemedicalinsurancefundedbybothcompaniesandindividuals.Manyemployersofferhealthinsurancetosubsidiseprivatehealthcare.

PeoplequeuingonGoughStreet.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Affordablegovernmentmedicalcareiscurrentlyassuredfortheentirepopulationthroughpublicfundsandprivatedonations,buttheadministrationisconsideringmakingprivatehealthinsurancemandatory.

Pollutionandtheenvironment

MostvisitorstoHongKongarelikelytonoticetheappallingqualityoftheair.HazingouttheviewsfromThePeak,onbaddaysevenmakingitdifficulttoseeacrosstheharbour,thepollutionisfrequentlycitedbyresidentsastheworstsingleaspectoftheSAR.Someofthesmogishome-grown,butagoodproportionisimported–aphoto-chemicalclouddriftingdownonthenortheastwindsfromtheindustrialzonesofGuangdong.ThesewindsareattheirmostpersistentduringtheOctober–Aprilperiod;pollutionlevelsareusuallylowerbetweenMayandSeptemberasthewindblowsinfromthesouthandeast,andheavyrainwashesoutthedust.Meanwhile,thewatersarealsofilthy,andthisandover-fishinghasreducedlocalfishstocksby80percent.

Inthepastfewyears,theseenvironmentalproblemshavebecomeahottopicinHongKong,andsomeprogressisbeingmadeonlocalemissions–sometaxisandbusesrunningonLPGgas,forexample.Yetdespiteagreatdealofdebate(andprotest),thereisalackofwill-powerfromtheauthoritiestodoanythingaboutit–partlyasaresultofapowerfulbusinesslobbyreluctanttosanctionanythinglikelytocutprofitmargins.

CrimeHongKong’sover-the-topactionmoviesoftengivetheimpressionofacrime-riddencitywhichisaperpetualhuntinggroundforchopper-wieldingtattooedthugsandarmedrobbers.Inreality,oneofthepleasuresofHongKongisitslackofcrime–thestreetsaresafeatanytime,andthechancesofbeingmuggedorpickpocketedaresignificantlylowerthanalmostanywhereinEuropeorAmerica.Thisisoftenmentionedasamajorqualityoflifebenefit,onethatencouragesexpatstoliveinHongKong.

CatchingupwiththenewsatLinHeungTeahouseonWellingtonStreet.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Organisedcrimedoesexist,though.Thetriadcrimesyndicatesrelyonahierarchicalstructure,withranksdenotedbynumbersthatbeginwithfour,representingthefourelements,compasspointsandseas.Thehighest-profilegangsare“14K”and“SanYeeOn”,whoseillegalactivitiesincludeloan-sharking,gambling,narcotics,prostitution,smugglingandextortion.

In2016,HongKonghadanestimated8,000drugabusers:50.3percentofthemareheroinaddicts,29.4percentusemethamphetamineand16.1percentketamine.Thegovernmenttakesatoughstanceonnarcotics.Possessionofmarijuanacarriesthesamepenaltiesasharddrugs:acriminalrecordandpossibleimprisonment.Still,HongKong’s“workhard,playhard”culture,

possibleimprisonment.Still,HongKong’s“workhard,playhard”culture,coupledwithitsaffluence,hasmeantthatrecreationaldrugsarereadilyavailable.

HongKongerslovetoshop.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

EducationHongKong’seducationalsystemiseverybitascompetitiveasitsbusinesscommunity.Childrensuffergreatpressuretogetintoprestigiousschools.Themostsought-afterareEnglishorbilingualschools–Englishiswidelyusedinbusiness,medicineandlaw.Aselsewhereintheworld,somestudentscommitsuicideeachyeariftheyfailanimportantexam.Parentalpressureoftenprovestoomuchforchildren,whospendmuchoftheirtimecrammingforexamsandstudyingforeignlanguagesforoverseasstudy.Tutorsarehiredtopreparetoddlersforkindergartenentranceexams,anordealthatsometimesrequirestwohoursoftestingtodetermineachild’sChinese,Englishandarithmeticskills.

ThegovernmentregularlycarriesoutstudiestoascertainthestandardofEnglishspokenbyteachers,toensurethatstudentsgeteveryopportunitytobecomeconfidentlybilingual.ThecorecompetencyremainsChinese,Englishandmaths,butanoverseaseducationisseenasapassporttoahighersalary.

PoliticalawarenessNowthatHongKongisinitsthirddecadeof“onecountrytwosystems”,itsresidentsseemtobedevelopingacleareridentity.Theyareproudofwhatthecityhasachieved,andnostalgicaboutthetoughyearswhentheyortheirparentshelpedcreatetheeconomicmiracle.ThereisalsoaninnerconflictbetweenprideinbeingChineseandlingeringuneaseatBeijing’srule.

RelaxingonthebeachatShekO.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Censorshipinsomesectionsofthemediaisaconcern,butlocalsdovoicefreelytheircriticismoftheHongKonggovernment.Thereissomefrustrationamongstordinarypeoplethatcertaingroupswithinsocietywieldmoreinfluencethanothers,inparticularthetycoonswhocontrolthepropertysectorandmonopolies.Themessofurbanplanning,andtheissuesofharbourreclamation,pollutionandalackofpublicspacesonlyaddstopublicvexation.Yetatthesametimetheseverysametycoons,whohavetheearofBeijing,arewidelyadmiredfortheirbusinessacumenandsheervolumeofwealth.

Houq:cuteobsession

IntandemwithmuchoftherestofAsia,HongKongisinthralltoJapanesepopcultureanditsobsessionwithallthingscute–whatistermedinJapanaskawaii,inHongKongashouQ.Theepitomeofthisis“HelloKitty”,theubiquitouscatcreatedbytheJapanesecompanySanriowhichadornsover20,000products,fromclothingtostationery.SociologistssaythefascinationwithJapanesestyleisfuelledbyAsians’needtofindamodernimageofthemselves,toformtheirownpopularcultureratherthanborrowfromtheWest.Or,asan18-year-oldHongKongerexpressedit:“Japanesesocietyisveryfast-pacedandalwayschanging.Everythingisverycuteandstylish.”

Inthelastcoupleofdecades,politicalawarenesshasdeveloped,andstreetprotestshavebecomearegularfeatureaslocalpeoplehavegrownincreasinglyfrustratedwiththeSARgovernment’sdecisions;thereisakeensenseofinjustice.

ThefutureHongKong’seconomicsuccesscanbecreditedabovealltoonething:itsindustriouspeople.AsBeijingiswellaware,anyattemptstorestrictfreedomscouldresultinanexodusofatalented,highlyeducatedworkforce,withdisastrousconsequencesforChina.MostChina-watchersbelievethatforHongKongtocontinuetothrive,itisherethatChina’seconomicreformsmustcoincidewiththeadvanceofdemocracyratherthanitssuppression.TheconcernthatShanghaicouldtakeoverHongKong’sprivilegedpositionasthegatewaytoChinaisvoicedlessoftennow,andsomeinfluentialgroupslooktoafuturewhereHongKongformsagiantmegalopoliswithShenzhen.

Chineseartsandcrafts

UntaintedbythecommunistdogmathatjustifiedransackingculturaltreasuresduringMao’smainlandrule,HongKongisregarded–alongsideTaiwan–asoneofthepurestrepositoriesoftraditionalChinesecultureandart.

Chineseartsandcraftshavealonghistory.Traditionalformsincludeporcelain,embroidery,brocade,carpets,jadeproducts,carvings(wood,bambooandivory)andpaperdecorationscalled“scissors-cuts”allwithdifferentstylesandregionalinfluencesaswellasbrushpaintingandcalligraphy.InHongKong,themostreliableplacestobuytheseitemsaretheChinaArtsandCraftsshopsandtheChineseProductsdepartmentstoresonHongKongIslandandKowloon.Forantiques,looknofurtherthanHollywoodRoadandneighbouringUpperLascarRow(morecommonlyknownasCatStreet;formoreinformation,clickhere).

FineproductsChineseembroideryandbrocadehavehadareputationforexcellentqualitysincethedaysoftradeontheSilkRoad.Thebestsilkproductscomefromeasternregionswheretheclimateissuitableforraisingsilkworms,whilethedrynorthwesternregionsofthecountryproducefine-qualitycashmere.

SilkembroideryfromSuzhou,nearShanghaiineasternChina,isespeciallywellknownforitsfineworkmanshipandvenerablehistorystretchingbackover2,000years.DrawnworkfromShantouineasternGuangdongalsoenjoysagoodreputationoverseas.

Scissors-cutistraditionallyaproductofruralChina,wherevariouskindsofcolourfuldesignsarecreatedtodecoratewindowsbeforeChineseNewYear.Patternsincludeanimals,fruit,flowersandcharactersfromancientChinesefolktalesoroperas,oftenwiththemesofgoodharvests,prosperityandhappiness.

Carvingsofjade,ivory,wood,bone,rockandbambooareafamiliarsightinChina.Thebest-knownarejadecarvingsfromBeijing,anartformthatdatesbacktotheMingdynasty(1368–1644);ivoryballsfeaturinglegendaryChinesefiguresfromGuangzhou;stonecarvingsfromShoushaninFujianprovince;bamboocarvingsfromHuangyaninZhejiangprovince;andhigh-qualityink-slabsmadeinDuanxiandZhaoqinginGuangdong.

TheChineseinventedporcelaininthe7thcenturyAD,agood1,000yearsbeforeEuropeansmanagedtounlockthesecret.ThebestvarietycomesfromJingdezhenCountyinJiangxiprovince–fine,smoothandreminiscentoftheceramicsmadeduringtheYuandynasty.ClosertoHongKong,theceramicsproducedatShiwan(formoreinformation,clickhere)arerenownedfortheirquality.

Chineselandscapepaintingandcalligraphyaregenerallymountedonahangingscroll.Indaysgoneby,thescrollwasrolledup,storedaway,andbroughtoutonspecialoccasionstobeslowlyunfurled,revealingonlypartsofascene,subtlydrawingtheobserver

intothepicture.Miniaturepaintingsonshells,feathers,treebark,deerhornsandeventhinstrandsofwheatstrawarealsopopularsouvenirsandgifts.

CraftsandstatuettesforsalenearHollywoodRoad.

iStock

WhereFoodisanArt

Cantonesecuisinehasbeenexportedaroundtheworldfordecadesandpassedoffasgeneric“Chinesefood”.Muchofwhatmakesitunique,however,isparticulartothiscornerofsouthern

China.

IthasbeensaidthatwhentheChineseareconfrontedwithsomethingtheyhaveneverseenbeforeordonotunderstand,theirfirstimpulseistotryeatingit.Thisfolkphilosophyhashelpedinspireoneofthegreatestcuisinestheworldhasknown.

EachregionofChinanaturallyevolvedadistinctivecookingstylethatreflecteditstopography,climate,floraandfauna,thetemperamentofitspeopleandtheircontactwithoutsiders.FoodsofnorthernandwesternChinadevelopedseparatelyfromthoseofthesouthernandeasterncoastal“ricebowl”.SouthernChinese(mainlytheCantonese,butalsosub-groupssuchastheHunanese,ChiuChowandHakkapeople)liketocomplainthatBeijing-basedfoodlackssmoothnessandsubtlety.Beijingfolks,meanwhile,arguethatsouthernersgrind,chopanddilutetheflavouroutoftheirfood.

Awidearrayofdimsum.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Whatevertheirregionalbiases,Chineseeverywheretalkabouttheirfoodthewayforeignersmighttalkaboutart.ThisisprobablybecauseChinesecuisineisregardedasanartform.Andeveniftheyaren’tconsciousoftheirfoodasamajorculturalaccomplishment,noChinesecaneveravoidtalkingaboutit.ThemostcommonCantonesegreeting,forexample,issiktzofanmeimeaning“Haveyoueaten?”Everydialectisrichinfoodsymbolism.“Youarebreakingmyricebowl”,wailstheChinesewhoselivelihoodisthreatened.

EventolearnsimplyhowtosayriceinChineserequiresanannotateddictionary.ConsiderthelinguisticvariablesofCantonese:plainriceismai;cookedriceisfaan;riceporridge(commonlycalledcongee)isjuk;andharvestedbutunhuskedriceisguk.

Freshmeal.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ThetraditionalChineseconceptofamealisverymuchacommunalaffairandonethatprovidesstrongsensoryimpact.Dishesarechosenwithbothtasteandtextureinmind,astomach-pleasingsuccessionofsweet-sour,sharp-bland,hot-coolandcrunchy-smooth.

Inalandthathasexperiencedrecurrentfamineandnaturaldisasters,wastageisnotacceptable.Childrenarewarnedbytheirparentsthatiftheyleaveanyriceintheirbowls,theywillmarryapock-markedspouseandthemoregrainsleftinthebowl,themorepock-markedthepartnerwillbe.

Anabundanceofleafygreenscanbefoundinthemarkets.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Evenduringrecentperiodsofpovertyandprivation,theChinesehavenearlyalwaysinsistedonfreshfood.ManyChinesestillshopeverydayforfreshmeatandvegetables.Cooksdonotstartwithaparticulardishinmind,butrathergotothemarkettobuywhat’sfreshandinseason,thencreatethemeal.

IntegraltoChinesecookingistheyin-yangphilosophyofthecorrectbalanceof“hot”and“cold”ingredients.Ahot(yang)itemsuchas

snakeorchickenrequiresacompensatingcool(yin)“partner”suchascabbageortofu.

Tomanyoutsiders,someChinesefoodsseembizarre,ifnotdownrightrepulsive.ThesearchforraredelicaciesiscommontoallChinese,butthe

repulsive.ThesearchforraredelicaciesiscommontoallChinese,buttheCantonesehavepushedittotheextreme.Amongthemaremonkey’sbrain,bear’spaw,snake,dog,frog,sparrow,shark’sfin,bird’snest,jellyfishandlizard.UnfortunatelyfortheaverageHongKongChinesewhosavourssuchoutlandishfare,manyofthesedelicaciesareeitherillegalorvirtuallyimpossibletoobtain.Hence,manyarerareandexpensive.

PorkishighlyprizedinChinesecuisine.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

CantonesecuisineTheCantoneselivetoeatand,atitsmostrefinedlevel,theirgastronomyachievesafinickydiscriminationthatbordersoncultism.IntheCantonesemethodofpreparation,foodiscookedquicklyandlightly,usuallystir-friedinshallowwateroranoilbaseinawok.Theflavourofthefoodsisthuspreserved,notcookedawayinpreparation.Manydishes,particularlyvegetablesorfish,aresteamed.Thisdiscouragesovercookingandpreservesafood’sdelicateandnaturalflavours(aswellasitsvitamins).Saucesareusedtoenhanceandusually

naturalflavours(aswellasitsvitamins).Saucesareusedtoenhanceandusuallycontaincontrastingingredientssuchasvinegarandsugar,orgingerandonion.

TheCantoneseareveryfondofseafood,asanyonewhohasvisitedoneofHongKong’soutlyingislandswillattest.Fishistypicallysteamedwholewithfreshgingerandspringonionsandsprinkledwithalittlesoysauceandsesameoil;fisheyesandlipsareconsidereddelicacies.Prawnsandcrabssteamedorinablack-beansauceareverypopular.Theterm“jumpingprawns”signifiesthattheyarealive,butitdoesn’tmeanyouareexpectedtoeatthemthatway.Otherseafoodfavouritesincludesquid,invariousformsincludingadelectabledeep-friedversion,octopusandcrab.Shark’sfinsoup–goldenthreadsofgelatinousshark’sfininabroth–isthecentrepieceofCantonesebanquets,despitemountingecologicalconcerns(formoreinformation,clickhere).

Anassortmentoffreshseafood.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Vegetabledishesareubiquitous,featuringleafygreenssuchasbocchoiandchoisum,gentlysteamedandoftenliberallyflavouredwithgarlic.Tofu,aversatileingredientmadefrompressedsoyabeancurd,isanotherstapleeithersteamedordeep-fried.

FauxChinese

OverseasvisitorswhoarefamiliarwithChinesefoodinWesterncountriessoonlearntheauthenticcuisineoftenhaslittletodowithwhattheyhavebeenservedinChineserestaurantsabroad.Take,forexample,twosupposedCantonesedishes:sweet-and-sourporkissaidtohavebeeninventedbytheever-resourcefulinhabitantsofGuangzhousolelyforsweet-toothedforeigners.AndchopsueywasreportedlyinventedinSanFranciscowhenacustomerenteredarestaurantatclosingtime,andthecooksthrewtheirleftoversintoapot,serveditupandinquietjestcalledthisorientalgoulash“chopsuey”.Also,despitetheChinesepreoccupationwithluckandsuperstitions,American-stylefortunecookiesdonotexisthere.

Chickeniscommonplaceand,inkeepingwiththeChinesesenseofeconomyandvariety,asinglebirdisoftenusedtoprepareseveraldishes.Chickenblood,forexample,iscookedandsolidifiedforsoup,andtheliverisusedinamarvellousspecialitycalledGoldCoinChicken.Theliversareskeweredbetweenpiecesofporkfatandred-roasteduntilthefatbecomescrispandtheliversoftandsucculent.Thedelicacyistheneatenwithwafersoforange-flavouredbread.Cantonesechickendishescanbeawkwardlybonyforchopsticknovices,althoughlemonchickenispreparedbonelesswiththeskincoatedinacrispbatterandservedinalemonsauceflavouredwithonions,gingerandsugar.

Forstarters,choosesomethingfromthedisplayofbarbecuedmeatsintherestaurant’sdisplaywindow.Cantonesebarbecuingmethodsareunrivalled.Trygoose,duckor,bestofall,tenderslicesofporkwithagoldenandhoneyedskinservedonabedofanise-flavouredpreservedbeans.

Driedfoodisforsaleatmanymarkets.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Alsoexperiencethetastesensationofdouble-boiledsoupswithduck,mushroomandtangerinepeel,andawinterspecialitycalledMonkJumpingovertheWall.Thisisablendofabalone,chicken,ham,mushroomsandherbssoirresistiblethatmonksaresaidtobreaktheirvowsofvegetarianismoncetheysmellit.

Toolsandtechniques

Manyforeignersstrugglewithchopsticks(faaijeeinCantonese),withricegrainsaparticularmenace.Thankfully,it’sperfectlyacceptabletoraisethericebowltoyourlipsandshoveltheelusivemorselsintoyourmouth.Scrapingandslurpingisnotconsideredrude.

ChopsticksarethoughttohavebeenadoptedbecauseofatraditionalConfuciandistasteforknives–potentiallydangerousweapons–onthediningtable.Iftheyproveimpossibletohandle,itisfinetousetheporcelainspoonprovidedforsoupsasascoopforothercourses.Andnoonemindsifyoumakeamess–itisevenpermissibletowipeyourhandsontheedgeofthetablecloth.

Atypicalmealstartswithacolddish,whichisfollowedbyseveralmaincourses.Soup–usuallyclear,lightbroth–maybeeatenaftertheheavierentréestoaiddigestion.However,athickandfull-bodiedsoupmaybeservedasamaindish,andasweetsoupoftenservesasadessertattheend.Therearenoruleswhenitcomestoorderingyourmeal.Themainthingistoenjoythefood.

Onemistakesomeforeignersmakeisswampingtheirricewithsoysauce,acrudeactthatrobsitofitscharacterandfunction.AChinesemealshouldincludeenoughspicyandsavourydishestomaketherelativeblandnessofsteamedriceanessentialbalancingagent.

Snakeisatraditionalwinterdish,oftenservedasanenergy-enhancingsoup.DogmeatisalsoawinterdishbutisillegalinHongKong:therearespecialtoursacrosstheborderspecificallytoeatdogmeat.AnotherCantonesewinterwarmertosampleisacasseroleofchickenandChinesesmokedporksausage.Thesesausagesaresoldinpairsandareusuallyservedsteamedonabedofrice.Inautumn,restaurantsservericebirdsculledfrompaddyfieldsatharvesttime.ThesearequiteofteneatentogetherwithsucculentShanghaihairycrabs.Frogsarealsofoundinthericepaddies,andthese“fieldchickens”areoftenservedatbanquetsinsouthernChina.InHongKongmarketstheyaresoldliveinplastic

banquetsinsouthernChina.InHongKongmarketstheyaresoldliveinplasticbags,andrestaurantspreparetheminmanydeliciousways,includingdeep-friedfrog’slegscookedinacrunchybattermixedwithcrushedalmondsandservedwithsweet-and-soursauce.

Fierychillipeppers.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ProbablythesinglemostfamousCantoneseculinaryphenomenonisdimsum,asuperblytastytreatandamustoneveryHongKongtourist’sitinerary(formoreinformation,clickhere).

OtherChinesecookingstylesCantoneserestaurantsdominateinHongKong,butotherdistinctiveformsofChinesecooking–thesubtleflavoursofChiuChowandShanghai,thespicydishesofSichuanandHunan,northernspecialitiessuchasPekingDuckandMongolianhotpot–arealsowellrepresented.

Dimsumsoupdumplings.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ChiuChowcuisineisalsoknownasSwatow(Shantou)foodbecausethistypeofcookingoriginatedaroundthecityofShantouineasternGuangdongprovince.Seafoodaddictsenjoysuchdishesasoystersfriedineggbatterandclamsservedinaspicysauceofblackbeansandchillies.Greymulletisafavouritecolddish,andpomfretsmokedovertealeavesandfreshwatereelstewedinbrownsauceareotherhighlyrecommendedseafoodwonders.

TheChinesepenchantforbizarreculinaryinnovationreachesitsapogeewithbird’snestsoup,forwhichthedriedsalivaliningaswiftlet’s

nestprovidesthebase.

AChiuChowrestaurantisalsoanappropriateplacetotrybanquet-stylefoodsuchasshark’sfinsoupandbird’snestsoup.TheownerofonerestaurantinHongKongreputedlyrentsamountaininThailandthatissaidtoharbourthefinestcollectionofswiftletnestsinSoutheastAsia.Thenestitselfisvirtuallytasteless,butitsnourishingsalivaliningsarebelievedtorejuvenatetheold.Thisdelicacyisalsoeatenasadessertflavouredwithcoconutmilkoralmonds.Anotherunusualavianmealismincedquail,cookedwithwaterchestnutsandeatenwrappedincrisplettuceleavesspikedwithadollopofplumsauce.

AfterCantonese,theemphaticallyflavouredcuisineofthecentralprovinceofSichuanisperhapsthemostfamiliarChinesefoodtoforeigners.Hunanesefoodissimilarbutarguablyevenspicier.Muchoftheemphasiscomesfromchillies,whichappearinmanyguises:driedandfriedinchunks,togetherwithotheringredients;groundintoapastewithatouchofaddedoil;aschillioil;andcrushedtoapowder.OtheringredientsimportanttoSichuanesecuisineareSichuan“pepper”(thedriedberryofthepricklyashorfagara),garlic,gingerandfermentedsoybean.Populardishesincludemaladoufu(spicytofu)andgongbaochicken(withchilliandpeanuts).

ModerntakeontraditionalcuisineatLittleBao.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AtypicalSichuaneatingexperienceishotpot,orhuoguo.Dinerssitaroundatablewithapotofseasonedbrothheatedbyagasfire(charcoalwasusedinthepast).Eachdineraddsbitsandpiecesofpreparedvegetable,meat,fishandbeancurd.Thefoodcooksveryquicklyandcanbefishedoutofthebrothusingchopsticksoraspecialstrainer,thendippedinsesameoil,peanutsauceorabeatenegg.

ThecuisineofthelowerreachesoftheYangziRiver,especiallyaroundHuaianandYangzhou,gaverisetothetermhuaiyangtodescribethefoodofChina’seasternseaboard.Thisfertilearea,knownasthelandoffishandrice,producesawiderangeofcropsaswellasabundantfish,prawns,crabandeel.Huaiyangcooksoftensteamorgentlysimmertheirfood,ratherthanusingthefasterdeep-fryingstyle.Signaturedishesincludeporksteamedinlotusleaves,DuckwithEightIngredients,andLion’sHeadMeatballs.Forthemostpart,thecookingofShanghai,JiangsuandZhejiangisusuallyregardedasbeingpartof

Huaiyangcuisine.Overthecenturies,culinaryelementsfromallovereasternAsiahavebeen

liberallyadaptedandabsorbedintoChinesecuisine,andit’sdifficulttotracetheoriginsofsomedishes.PekingDuck,preparedbyroastingtheduckoveranopencharcoalfireandslowlybastingitwithsyrupuntiltheskinisadeep,crispybrown,wasoriginallyMongolian.Mongolianhotpot,called“steamboat”inSingaporeandMalaysia,isinfactofcentralChineseMuslimorigins.Itisprobablythesecondbest-knownofthenortherndishes,andasawinterfood,isservedbetweenNovemberandMarchinnorthern-stylerestaurants.

Egg-custardtarts,aHongKongbakerystaple.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AsurpriseformanyattheirfirstnorthernChinesemealisthatriceisnotservedunlessspeciallyrequested.Wheatisthecommongrainstapleinthenorth,

sonorthernerstraditionallyeatsteamedbread(pao)ortastyonioncakesinsteadofrice.OneofthespectaculartreatsatanorthernChinesemealishandmadenoodlescalledliemien,oftendeftlymadeatthetablebythechef,whoturnsdoughintostrandsofnoodleswithinseconds.

HongKong’sbakeries

BakeriesoccupyaspecialplaceinHongKonghearts,dispensingbreakfastandsnacksfromtheubiquitousegg-custardtarts(daantaht),doughnutsanddoughysausagebunstoawiderangeofcolourfulcelebratorycakesandpastries.Youngparentstaketheiroffspringtothesamebakerytheypatronisedwhentheywerechildren,andafteraspelloverseas,HongKongersdropbytheirfriendlyneighbourhoodcakeshop,areflexreactionthatconfirmstheirhomecoming.AndwhenarenthikeforcedtheclosureofthefamedTaiCheungBakeryonLyndhurstTerrace(Central)after51yearsofbusiness,peopletooktothestreetsin(futile)protest.

AcosmopolitanculinarysceneNowadays,whileCantoneseandotherChinesecuisinepredominatesinHongKong,thereisavastarrayofotherfareonoffer.StandbeneaththeescalatorinCochraneStreetinCentral,andwithinspittingdistanceyou’llfindamodernBritishgastropub,Russian,IndianandThairestaurants,andascarlet-huedsushijointwithplattershummingroundthebaronaconveyorbelt.

Foodhawkersstillplytheirtradeonstreetcornersalthoughofficialdomisseekingtoeradicatethemandabrowserounda7-ElevenorCircleKconveniencestoreleadspastmicrowaveabledimsumandpotnoodles,packetsofdriedfishandfruit,aswellasboxeddrinksthatmightbemistakenformedicine.

MealsareanimportantcommunalaffairinHongKong.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Thebudget-mindedcanfeastforafewdollarsonseafoodnoodlesataseasiderestaurantononeoftheouterislands,oryoucansplurgeinafive-starhotel,divinginandoutofcosmopolitanbuffetsorsettlingdowntoalengthyrepastwithmaîtred’andsommeliershimmeringdiscreetlyintheshadows.

HongKong’slong-establishedIndiancommunityhasresultedinagoodsupplyofcurryhousesalloverthemainurbanareas,notablyinTsimShaTsui’sChungkingMansions(formoreinformation,clickhere).AlsoveryeasytofindandusuallyexcellentarethenumerousThairestaurants,aswellasplentyofotherSoutheastAsiancuisinenotjustMalaysianandSingaporeanbutVietnameseandBurmese,too.Japanesefoodisalsoverywellrepresented.Asinanylargecosmopolitancity,thereisnoshortageofEuropean(mainlyFrench

andItalian)andAmericanrestaurants(McDonald’soutletsareeverywhere,andextremelycheap),aswellasothercuisinesrangingfromEgyptiantoArgentinean.

Insight:DimSum

PerhapsthemostfamousCantoneseculinaryphenomenon,dimsumisoneofHongKong’straditionaldelicaciesandgoesdownatreatwith

visitors.

FromsunrisethroughtolunchtimepeoplealloverHongKongenjoyyumcha(“drinktea”),catchingupwithfriendsandeatingdimsum(“littlehearts”),smallportionsofCantonesedishesanddumplingsoftenservedinbamboobaskets.Tosharetheexperience,headtoadimsumrestaurantandjoininthenoiseandenjoymentofthistastyHongKongtradition.

InHongKong(andneighbouringGuangdongprovince)peopleeatdimsumforbreakfastorbrunch,congregatinginbustling,informaleateriesthatoftenopenatthecrackofdawn.Inthosetraditionalestablishmentswheremenushavenotyettakenover,self-servicetrolleysstackedwithsmallplatesandsteamerbasketsarewheeledpast.Steamed,pan-fried,deep-friedorcongee(arice-based,soupydish)arethetraditionalcategoriesfordimsum,althoughafewvarietiesarebaked.Mostcommonarethedelicatesteameddumplings,whichcomewitharangeoffillings.Dessertdimsumisalsoavailable.

Novicesoftenstartwithsiumai(shrimpandporkdumplings),hagow(shrimpdumplings)andchasiubau(steamedbarbecueporkbuns)–thesethreeareprobablythemostpopulardishes.

Inatraditionaldimsumrestaurant,dinersreplenishfromtheever-circulatingtrolleyratherthanorderingeverythinginonego.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

InformationforNovicesAdimsumrestaurantcanbedauntingforforeignerswithnoexperienceofChineseetiquette,soherearesomepointerstofollow.

Atthetableyouwillbepresentedwithabowl,plate,chopsticksandasmallteacup.Teaisthefirstthingtoorder,afterwhichyouwillbepresentedwiththeall-important“card”,whichresemblesalargelotteryticket.Eachtimeyouordersomethingtheitemwillbetickedbythewaitingstaff.AfewrestaurantshaveEnglishmenus,butonthewholebepreparedsimplytolookandpointandtrynewthings.Olderestablishmentsstillhavevendorswheelingtrolleysaround,eachcarryingadifferentspeciality.Ifyoucan’tseewhatitistheyareselling,stopthetrolley,withapolitebutloudnggoi(excuseme).Sometimesthere’sacounter,sowalkupwithyourcard,openthebasketsandpointatwhatyouwant.Whenyourteapotisempty,simplyflipthelidoverandsomeonewillappearandtopitupwithhotwater.Whenyourbowlisemptyit’stimetosampleanotherbamboobasket.

ChineseMedicine

Chineseremedieshavebeenpractisedfor4,000yearsand,aidedbytheinternationalpopularityof

acupuncture,havebeengainingrecognitionaroundtheworld.

TraditionalChinesemedicineisbasedonanarrayoftheoriesandpracticesfrombothforeignandnativesources.ItwasduringtheZhouperiod(11thcentury–221BC)thatmanyofthesetheoriesfirstemerged.ThisstageofChinesehistory,markedbynearcontinuousfightingandmisery,lastedseveralcenturies.Againstthebackgroundofthisconstantstateofturmoil,manyideastookrootthatweretocolourallaspectsoflifeinChinaforthenext2,000yearsincludingmedicine,whichitselfwasinfluencedbytheteachingsofConfucianismandDaoism.

Holism,theideathatpartsofahumanbodyformanintegral,connectedandinseparablewhole,isoneofthedistinguishingfeaturesofChinesemedicine.WhereasWesternmedicinetendstotreatsymptomsinadirectfashion,Chinesemedicineexaminesillnessesinthecontextofthewholeperson.

AtraditionalChinesemedicineshoponQueen’sRoadWest.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Yin-yangphilosophyandthetheoryoffiveelementsformasystemofcategoriesthatexplainthecomplexrelationshipsbetweenpartsofthebodyandtheenvironment.Yinandyangrepresenttwooppositesidesinnaturesuchashotandcoldorlightanddark.Eachofthedifferentorgansissaidtohaveyinoryangcharacteristics,andbalancebetweenthetwoisvitalformaintaininghealth.Likewise,eachorganislinkeddirectlytoaparticularelement:firefortheheart,earthforthespleen,waterforthekidneys,metalforthelungsandwoodfortheliver.Thewayinwhichtheyinteractaffectsaperson’shealth,so,forexample,thekidneys(water)nourishtheliver(wood).

Apharmacistweighsingredientsforaprescription.Corbis

TraditionalversusmodernThementionoftraditionalChinesemedicineoftenconjuresupimagesofacupunctureneedles,aromaticherbsandstrangeanimalparts.Yet,despitetheexoticstereotype,itisincreasinglygainingrespectfrombothscientistsandthegeneralpublicinEuropeandtheUS,particularlywithregardtothealleviationofpain.

InChina,scepticismanddebatearoseastothevalueoftraditionalmedicineduringthefirsthalfofthe20thcentury,withprogressiveintellectualandpoliticalgroupsparticularlyhostile.AfterthefoundingofthePeople’sRepublicofChina,competitionbetweenWesternandChinesemedicinewaseradicatedforpracticalaswellasideologicalreasons,withanattempttointegratethetwosystems.

Thisintegratedapproachhaspersisted,andtodaymedicalcareinChinaoftenconsistsofamixtureofbothWesternandtraditionalChinesemedicine,althoughtheformer,orxiyi,tendstobedominant.Largepublichospitals(renminyiyuan)incitiesacrossthecountryofferboththetraditionalChineseandWesternapproachestomedicaltreatment.HospitalsdealingexclusivelywithtraditionalChinesemedicine(TCM),orzhongyi,tendtobesmaller,lesswellequippedandhardertofind.InHongKong,theChineseMedicineCouncilofHongKong(www.cmchk.org.hk)hasbeenregulatingtheindustrysince1999,andwhiletherearenofull-scaleTCMhospitals,thereareseveralplacesinCentralandSheungWanthatofferabasicconsultation(anexampleistheGoodSpringCompanyonthecornerofStanleyStreet,besidetheMid-Levelsescalator).

Ingredientscomefromallkindsofanimals.Dreamstime

TheChinesewillusuallyvisitadoctortrainedinWesternmedicineiftheyfeelthattheyareseriouslyillandneedtobetreatedquickly.Iftheproblemisnottooseriousorurgent,thepatientmayseekoutatraditionaldoctortorestore

nottooseriousorurgent,thepatientmayseekoutatraditionaldoctortorestoreharmonytothebodyandthusprovidealong-termcure.

ChineseHerbalTeahasmanymedicinalproperties.

HKTB

Theanimalpartstrade

Inadditiontonaturalherbs,animalbodypartsareintegraltomanytraditionalmedicinerecipes.Globalisation,industrialprocessingandanexpandingChinesemiddleclassmeansomeoftheplanet’smostprecariousspeciesareunderpressure.

TheChinesehavebeenusinganimalpartsformedicinalpurposesforwellover1,000years.Yetforallitsgrowingappealacrosstheworld

wellover1,000years.YetforallitsgrowingappealacrosstheworldaspeoplelookforalternativestoWesterndrugs,thereisadarkerside.Wildlife,underpressurefromintensiveindustrialandeconomicdevelopmentinrecentdecades,isnowbeingpushedtothebrinkofextinctionbytheincreaseddemandforbodyparts.

Thedemandfortigers,forexample,isforcingthesemagnificentcreatureseverclosertoextinction(recentstudiesestimatethatthereareonly30to80SouthChinatigers,480to540Siberiantigersand400to500Sumatrantigersleftinthewild).VarioustigerpartsareusedinChinesemedicine:eyeballstotreatepilepsy,thetailforvariousskindiseases,bileforconvulsionsinchildren,whiskersfortoothaches,thepenisformaleimpotenceandthebraintocombatlazinessandpimples.Yetofalltigerparts,itisthebonesthataremostvalued,usedtotreatrheumatism,weakness,stiffnessandevenparalysis.

Rhinoceros,bearandsharkpopulationsarealsorapidlyshrinking.Rhinoceroshornisreputedtobeanaphrodisiac.Onlyabout30,000rhinosremaininthewild,withanother1,000incaptivity.Abouttwothirdsofthesearewhiterhinosandtheremaininghalfconsistsoffourotherspecies.Withoutassistance,thesecouldsoonbeextinct.AlsogreatlythreatenedbyChinesedemand,bearsfromasfarawayasNorthAmericaarecruellyfarmedfortheirbile,usedtotreatavarietyofailments,andpaws,whichareusedinsoup.

FromcelluloidpredatortoculinaryvictimLikebear’spaw,shark’sfin,thoughnotusedexclusivelyformedicine,isadelicacy.Servedmostcommonlyasshark’sfinsoup,thisbrothisbelievedtobenefittheinternalorgans.Sharksarecaughtandtheirtopfinslicedoff.Theyarethentossedbackintotheocean,alive,todrown.Insomeareas,thesharkpopulation–essentialtotheecosystem,asthesharkisthetoppredator–isdeclining.

Inrecentyears,humanpopulationsandexpendableincomeshaveincreaseddramaticallyinAsia,alongwitharesurgenceofinterestintraditionalcures.Useoftraditionalmedicinesisseenasastatussymbolandalsoasawaytoholdontolocalcustomsamidstrapidsocialandeconomicchanges.

socialandeconomicchanges.

Whiletheeffectivenessoftheseendangeredanimalproductsinmedicineisstilldisputed,researchersconfirmthebenefitsoftheactiveingredientspresentinaconsiderablenumberofChineseprescriptions.

Asendangeredanimalpopulationsplummet,theuseoftheirpartstofeedanever-growingdemandisnolongersustainable.HongKong’sgovernmentdemonstrateditsawarenessofthefactin2013whenitbelatedlybannedshark’sfinfrommenusatofficialfunctions.Onewayoranother,thetradeinendangeredanimalpartsformedicinemuststop.Thismeansfindinganalternativetoalternativemedicine.

EndangeredanimalssuchastigersandsharksarethreatenedbytheChinesemedicineindustry.Photoshot

ThepharmacyChinesepharmaciestendtohaveauniqueodour.Thereareallsortsofexoticanimals,insectsandvegetables,allofwhichappearinthepagesoftheEncyclopaediaoftheTraditionalChinesePharmacopoeia,aweightytomepublishedin1977,runningto2,700pagesandlistingsome5,767substanceswithmedicinalorpreventativeproperties.HavealookaroundthepharmaciesinWesternDistrictandyouwillseebirds’eggs,snakeswoundupinspirals,toads,

tortoises,centipedes,grasshoppers,driedfish,deerantlersandthegenitaliaofvariousunfortunateandoftenendangeredanimals(formoreinformation,clickhere).Andthentherearethemyriadherbs,blossoms,roots,berries,mushroomsandfruitsdriedandpreserved.AlltraditionalChinesepharmaciesarewellstockedwithginsengroots,oftenshapedlikeahumanfigure.

Findingtherightbalance

TraditionalChineseMedicine(TCM)entailsmorethanjustacupuncture:theknowledgeofremedies(zhongyao)isanimportantfactor.Patientsaretreatedwithdifferentkindsofmassageandchiropractics(tuina),aswellasbreathingandmovementtherapies,suchastaijiquan(shadow-boxing)andqigong(breathingtherapy).WhileHongKong’smainhotelsofferextensiveWestern-stylehealthtreatments,it’sworthre-establishingyourinnerharmonythelocalway.Startoffwiththefamiliar:arelaxingtoerubtoboostcirculationandfreetheflowofqi,orafullbodymassage:theSunnyParadiseSauna(341LockhartRoad,WanChai;tel:28310123)isoneofanumberofvenuesaroundHongKong.

Traditionalcuresarenotonlyavailablefrompharmacies.WanderingaroundaHongKongmarket,onemayseeherbsandproduceforsalethatareusedasremediesratherthanfood.

AncientChinesemedicinebookfromtheQingdynasty,recordingtheuseofacupunctureandherbalmedicine.iStock

AcupunctureOneeffectofacupuncturethatisundisputedandvaluedbyabillionChineseisthereliefofpain.Whileothersrelyondrugstomoderatephysicalpain,theChinesegototheacupuncturist.Casesofacutebackpain,forexample,canbecuredbystickingjustoneneedleintherenzhongpointbetweenthetoplipandnose.

Increasinglyacceptedbymanyphysicians,acupuncturewasin1997approvedasa

legitimateandinsurabletreatmentforpainbymedicalauthoritiesintheUnitedStates.

Anewformofpainlessacupuncture,whichdoesnotuseneedles,isadministeredbyear.Small,roundseedkernelsarestuckontocertainpointsoftheearandmassagedbythepatientfromtimetotime.Thismethodisnotonlyverysuccessfulintreatingpain,butisalsosaidtorelievesuchallergiesashay

verysuccessfulintreatingpain,butisalsosaidtorelievesuchallergiesashayfever.

Whenenteringanacupunctureclinic,youwillnoticeoneofthedominantaromasoftheChinesepharmacythatofthemoxaherb,whichisthesamethingasArtemisia,ormugwort.Itisconsideredespeciallyhelpfulintreatingillnessesthat,inChinesemedicalterminology,areclassifiedas“cold”;forexample,stomachanddigestivecomplaintswithoutfever,certainrheumaticillnesses,chronicpainsinthebackandcrampedneckandshoulders.Themugwortisplacedontotheacupuncturepointorontheendoftheacupunctureneedle,ormouldedintotheshapeofacigarandrolledbackandforthovertheskin.

TheancientChinesemartialartoft’aichihasmanyhealthbenefits.iStock

ExerciseAtsomestagewhileinHongKong,visitapublicparkatdawntowitnesstheChineseexerciseartsoftaijiquanandqigong.Taijiquanisthemostcommontypeofexercise,so-calledshadow-boxing.QigongisoftentranslatedintheWestasbreathingtherapy.

Bothexercisesarebasedonthebeliefthatthehumanbodyisendowedwiththelifeenergy,qi.Ifthiscanbeharnessedandcontrolled,apersoncaninfluence

thecourseofcertainailmentsthatafflictthebody.Bodyandbreathingexercisesarethuspreventativeformsof“medicine”.

DuringtheCulturalRevolutioninChina,qigongwasbannedbecauseitwassaidtobetooclosetosuperstition.Butin1980,newqigonggroupssprangup,andsoongainedalargefollowing.Someformsinvolvehardlyanymovement:breathingand“sinkingintooneself”areofprimeimportance.Otherforms,likethe“wildgoose”variety,entailagreatdealofmovementandareaestheticallyappealing.

Inbothtaijiquanandqigong,changesinmentalandemotionalstatesfollowacertainpatternofmovement.Themostextremeoftheseisthe“craneqigong”,whichinvolvesviolent,sometimescatharticemotionaloutbursts.Practitionersmayscream,cry,laugh,danceorjumparoundastheyexperiencefagong,abandoningoneselftospontaneousmovements.

It’sinthedietTheChinesehavelittledoubtoftheefficacyofdifferentfoodsfortreatingailmentsandhealingcertainpartsofthebody.Considerthreetraditionaldelicacies:shark’sfin,abaloneandbird’snest.Theseareexquisitepartsofanextensivecuisine,eatenfortheirsensorydelights.Yeteachisclaimedtohavemedicinalvalue.Shark’sfinandabalonearesaidtobenefitinternalorgans,includingtheheartandkidneys.Abalonealsoregulatestheliverandreducesdizzinessandhighbloodpressure.Bird’snest,usuallytakenasasoup,allegedlycleansesthebloodandthecomplexion.

FormuchofChina’shistory,herbalistshaveattributedmedicinalvaluetovariousfoods.At

times,thedistinctionbetweenfoodandtreatmentcanblur.

Verifyingsuchclaimsisdifficult.Thescientificmethod,whichinvolvescontrolledexperimentsusingknownvaluesandquantities,doesn’tlenditselfwelltotheanalysisofclaimsthatafooditemcanhelpcurephysicalillnesses.Moreover,tobevalid,aresultmustbeindependentlyverifiable.Considerationmustalsobegiventotheplaceboeffect,whereavalidresultoccursbecauseonebelievesinsomething’sefficacy.ManysaythesuccessofChinesecuresis

believesinsomething’sefficacy.ManysaythesuccessofChinesecuresissimplyaquestionofmindovermatter.However,recentresearchonthehealtheffectsofsoybeansandgreentea,forexample,suggeststhatcomponentsinthesetwoitemshavesubstantivemedicinalvalue,possiblyagainstsomeformsofcancer.

Herbalremedieshavegraduallygainedrespectaroundtheworld.Westernnutritionistshavealwaysstressedthatcertainfoodsprovidenecessaryvitaminsandmineralsthataregoodforthebody;carrotsforgoodeyesight,calciumforstrongbones.TraditionalChinesemedicinalfoodssimplytakethesescientificremediesonelevelfurther.

Insight:BeliefsandSuperstitions

Ancientbeliefssuchasfortune-tellingandfengshui,aswellasmoretraditionalreligious

principles,continuetocolourdailylifeinHongKong.

Fewmodern-daycityresidentstaketheirtraditionalbeliefsmoreseriouslythantheHongKongChinese.Aconstantundercurrent,counterpointtothebrash,modernmetropolis,thesevalueshavebeenformedoverthecenturiesthroughaninteractionofthethreeprimaryChinesereligionsorphilosophies–Buddhism,DaoismandConfucianism–overlaidwithelementsofanimism,superstitionandfolktradition.AddingfurthertothisesotericmixistheChinesetraditionofancestorworship.Someaspectsofthecorebeliefsoverlapwitheachother(forexample,manytemplesarebothBuddhistandDaoist).

ThesereligionsarecomplementedbythemoreovertlysuperstitiousbeliefssoimportantinHongKong.Fengshui(formoreinformation,clickhere)isbasedaroundthecentralChineseconceptofqi(theenergy,lifeforceorspiritthatisbelievedtoexistinnatureandalllivingcreatures),anunderlyingprincipleinChinesemedicine(formoreinformation,clickhere).Numerology(formoreinformation,clickhere)isamorestraightforwardsuperstition.Throughout,twothemesareuniversal:thedesireforprosperityandlongevity.

YetitisoftensaidthatHongKongersworshiponethingandonethingonly:money.Anditistruethatthealmostevangelicalpursuitofpersonalwealthseemstobehard-wiredintomuchofthepopulation.Deityworshipisoftenusedinthepursuitofworldlygainsincludingadviceonstock-marketandhorse-racingtips(witnessthelargenumberofofferingstothegodofgoodfortune,WongTaiSin,athistemple).

BusyWongTaiSinTemple,dedicatedtotheDaoistgodofhealingandgoodfortune,isfamousforitsfortune-tellers.

HKTB

FengshuiMostpeopleagreethatI.M.Pei’siconicBankofChinaTowerisanimpressiveandattractivestructure,butthereisonenegativeaspect:itsstrikinglysharpangleschannelbadfengshuiontoitsneighbours.Fengshui(“windandwater”)isanancientChineseformofgeomancy,andanimportantconsiderationwhenanewtowerblockisbeingplanned.Afengshuimasterwilladviseonwhichdirectionitshouldfaceandwheredesks,bedsorevenavaseshouldbeplacedtoattractthebestluckandpreventbadfortune.Ashelteredposition,facingthewaterandawayfromahillside,isconsideredauspicious,butalthoughtheBankofChinawasbuiltwiththeseprinciplesinmind,thefactthatitsaggressiveanglesarrowedhostileenergytowards,amongstothers,GovernmentHouseandtheHSBCBuilding,wasnotconsidered.TheconstructionoftheCheungKongCentre,atanangleaskewtothebankandbetweenitandtheHSBCBuildingandastrategicallyplacedwillowtreeatGovernmentHousehaveimprovedneighbourlyrelations.

LuckyNumbersHongKongmaybetheonlyplaceintheworldwheresomeonewouldpayUS$1.7millionforavehiclelicenceplate.In1994,localtycoonAlbertYeungdidjustthat,investinginalicenceplatebearingthesingledigitnine,consideredluckybecausetheCantonesewordfor“nine”soundslikethewordfor“eternity”,“longevity”or“perpetuity”.

Otherluckynumbersincludetwo,whichstandsfor“easy”,threefor“livingorgivingbirth”,sixfor“longevity”andeightfor“prosperity”.Butitisthecombinationsthatareinmostdemand.Forexample,163means“liveforever”or“givebirthnon-stop”,168equals“prosperityalltheway”,and162“easyalltheway”.Luckylicence-platenumbersbecamesomuchindemandthat,in1973,thegovernment’stransportdepartmentbeganauctioningthemofftothehighestbidders.Thenumbereighthasconsistentlydrawnthehighestbid.Today,alllicence-platenumbersconsideredluckyinCantonesearereservedandavailableonlythroughauctionswheretheyattracthighprices.

Thesuperstitionovernumbersalsoappliestostreet,apartmentandtelephonenumbers.Forexample,thepriceforanapartmentonthe14thfloorcanbe20percentcheaperthanthatforthesameflatonthe18thfloor,because14inCantonesemeans“definitelydies”,while18means“definitelyprospers”.Somebuildingsgetaroundthisproblembysimplyomittinga14thfloor,goingstraightfromthe13thtothe15th.

ThePerformingArts

SpendanytimeinHongKongandonewillencounteradiversecatalogueofperformingarts,

includingtraditionalopera,liondancesandCantopop.

AlthoughChineseoperaisnolongerthemostpopularperformanceartinHongKongandChina,itremainsanintegralpartofChineseentertainmentandculture.OriginatingfromChina’searliestfolkmusicanddances,modern-dayChineseopera–astoryputtomusicanddance–emergedduringtheSongdynasty(960–1279).AlthoughChineseoperacametobeassociatedwithfestivalsandstateoccasionsatthe18th-centuryimperialcourtinBeijing,itwasalsopopularamongthecommonpeople.

WestKowloonBambooTheatre.Dreamstime

InHongKong,aperformanceofChineseoperaiscustomaryduringimportantfestivalsintheChinesecalendar.Performancesareusuallyheldinbamboo-and-mattheatrestemporarilyerectedinpublicareas.Chineseoperahasmanyculturalandregionalvariations.Cantoneseoperas,whicharenaturallythemostpopularinHongKong,arequitedifferentfromChiuChowoperas.Beijingoperasareperformedinthecourt’sofficialdialect,Mandarin.

Therepertoireisdrawnfromfolklore,legendsandhistoricalevents.Thebackboneoftheperformanceistheactor-singer.InthesamewayastheirWesterncounterparts,Chineseoperaticsingersundergomanyyearsofintensivetrainingtoachieveaproperlypitchedfalsetto.SingingartistsareoftenaccompaniedbyatraditionalChineseorchestra.Percussionistsoccupyonesideofthestage,whilethewind-and-stringsectionsitsopposite,leavingthemain

ofthestage,whilethewind-and-stringsectionsitsopposite,leavingthemainareaofthestageclearfortheprimaryperformers.Toforeignears,thesoundsofaChineseoperaseembizarreanddiscordant,withthehigh-pitcheddialogue,deafeninggongsanddrumsechoingfromthemusicpit.

TherewerenoactressesduringChineseopera’searlydevelopment,becausewomenwerenotallowedtomakepublicappearances,somaleactorstookthefemaleroles.AsinWesternopera,however,thattraditionhasdied.

ThepaintedmaskiscriticalinChineseopera.JohnIshii/ApaPublications

Make-up,movements,propsandspecificcostumecoloursidentifyanactor’sage,sexandpersonalitythemomentheorsheappearsonstage.ActorsinBeijingoperaswearextremelyheavymake-up,acosmeticstylederivedfromtheuseofpaintedmasksinolderoperaticforms.Awhitepatchonthenoseindicatesacomiccharacteroflowrank;acompletelywhitefacesuggestsevilandtreachery;aredfaceidentifiesacourageousbutdim-wittedman;andablack-facedactorisanordinaryperson.Thereare18typesofoperabeards,eachsymbolisingadifferentpersonality.

symbolisingadifferentpersonality.

Chineseoperasalsoincorporatemime,dance,swordplayandacrobatics.Fortheprincipal

artists,gesture,movementandattitudeareallasimportantastheirspokenlines.

HeaddressesarealsoavitalpartofChineseoperacostume;themoreimportantthecharacter,themoreelaboratetheheaddress.Costumesareexaggeratedinstyletoachieveasgreatatheatricaleffectaspossible.Eachcolouridentifiestherank,statusandpersonalityofthedifferentoperaticroles:purpleforbarbarians,yellowforemperors.Propsareusuallyminimal,theideabeingtoleaveasmuchaspossibletotheaudience’simagination.

Thoughthereareformalexceptions,itisacceptableforaudiencestoarrivelateforaperformance,leaveearly,walkaroundandchat,oreveneatduringashow,whichmayrunfromthreehourstoawholeday.Whenanactorsingsespeciallywell,theaudienceisexpectedtorespondbyshoutingoutpraiseandapplauding.

MostofthetraditionaloperaperformancesinHongKongarecalledsumkung(god’seulogy),astheyareperformedtocelebratespecialfestivalsorthebirthdaysofdifferentgods.ManyoftheseperformancesarerelatedtoDaoismandBuddhism.Forexample,duringtheGhostFestival,operasarestagedtogetherwithotheractivitiestoexpiatethesinsofthedead.Oneachoccasion,performancescanlastuptofivedays.

Resplendentcostumesembellishtheoperaticperformance.AlexHavret/ApaPublications

TorevivethepopularityofChineseoperas,someartistshavetakenmeasurestorejuvenatebothformandcontent.ThemostactivereformerinHongKongisveteranLeungHon-wai,whohasformedhisownoperaticgroupandemployedwriterstoproducenewscripts,whileasymphonyorchestrawasintroducedtobringamoremoderntempo.

Ironically,thefirstmajorreformofChineseoperawasstartedonthemainlandbythelateChineseleaderMaoZedong’swife,whopersecutedintellectualsduringtheCulturalRevolution.Underherinstructions,traditionaloperatroupesputon“revolutionarymodelplays”.TheysangthepraisesoftheCommunistPartyandcondemnedtheevilsofcapitalism.Delicateyounggirlsyearningforlovewerereplacedbyironladiessweatingawayinthefields.Symphonicmusicwasintroducedtoaddastrongermood,whileWesternopera-singingtechniqueswereappliedtomakerevolutionaryleadersstandout.

NewYeardragondances.Corbis

Rigidpoliticalpropagandaaside,theserevolutionaryplaysintroducedmodernelementstotraditionalChineseoperasandconvincedveteranartiststhatnewstoriescouldwork.

LionanddragondancesAliondance,inwhichtwoperformerswearandmanipulatealioncostume,isalsoanintegralpartoffestiveoccasions.Thisqongfu-relatedentertainmentformisusuallyperformedatfestivals,oronspecialoccasionssuchastheopeningofanewbusinessoracorporateanniversary.

SincethelionisconsideredaholyanimalandseenasaspiritthathasitsownimportanceinChinesemythology,liondancesarebelievedtobringgoodluck.Sometimesperformancesareaccompaniedbyfirecrackerstoscareawayevilspirits.Theremayalsobeadragondancetoaccompanythelion.Thedifferencebetweenthetwodancesissimple:thedragonisheldaloftbyagroupofperformers,whomovethegiantpuppetfromoutside.Theywalkinsetpatternstomakethedragonlooklikeitisflying.Buttheliondancehasacrewofonlytwo,whomovethelargeclothorpaperpuppetfromwithin.Also,intheliondanceperformerscanmovetheheadinvariousways,aswellastheeyes,mouthandears.

ChineseNewYearparade.

HKTB

TherearegenerallytwotypesofChineselions:northernandsouthern.Thedifferencesareintheirappearanceandthewaytheymove.Whilethenorthernlionhasafurryyellowcoatandasemi-rigidmouth,thesouthernversionhasamovablemouthandamorecolourfulbody,butnolonghairforfur.

Wheretoseeperformingarts

HongKong’sflagshipvenueistheCulturalCentreinTsimShaTsui.HometotheHongKongPhilharmonicOrchestra,thecentrealsoplayshosttomanyvisitingartistsandtouringproductionsofhitmusicals.TheHongKongArtsCentreinWanChaiistheplacetogofortheatreandtheoccasionalconcert,whileCityHall(Central)issynonymouswithdanceandChineseopera.TheAcademyforPerformingArts,closetotheArtsCentreinWanChai,containstheLyricTheatreandorganisesconcertsbyitsownstudentsandinternationalmusicians.TheannualHongKongArtsFestival(Feb–Mar)bringstogetherlocaltalentandleadinginternationalperformers.

MusicandfilmDespiteeffortstoadapttomoderntimes,interestintraditionalartshasbeenreplacedbypopmusicandfilms.MainlandChineseimmigrantsinthe1950sand1960sbroughttoHongKongnotonlymoneyandentrepreneurialskills,butalsoarts,cultureandtheMandarinlanguage.Duringthe1950sand1960s,mostofthewell-knownartistsinHongKongwerefromShanghai.Inthe1970s,whencontactbetweenHongKongandTaiwanincreased,HongKong’smusicscenewasdominatedbyTaiwanesesongs,mostlywrittenbycollegestudentsontheislandruledbytheGuomintang(Nationalist)Party.

ACantopopsinger.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Inthemid-1970s,someHongKong-bornsingerswithaclearlocalidentitystartedamovementtopromoteCantonesepopsongs,andbytheearly1980sthefirstgenerationofCantonesepopstarsdubbed“Cantopop”bythelocalpressappeared.Sincethelate1980s,thislocalscenehasbeendominatedbyteenidols–youngmaleandfemalesingersintheirlateteensorearlytwentieswhosepopularitydependsmoreontheirlooksthantheirvoices.Inthe1990s,thebiggestlocalpopstarsweredescribedas“emperors”and“empresses”,withthemostfamousperformerscalledthe“fourheavenlyemperors”singers:LeonLai,JackieCheung,AndyLauandAaronKwok.Eachdevelopedhisownloyallegionoffanswhozealouslytracktheiridol’severypublicappearance.Whenheart-throbsinger/actorLeslieCheungdiedinasuicidejumpfromthetopflooroftheMandarinOrientalhotelin2003thecitywaspracticallyparalysedbygrief.TributewebsitescontinueontheInternet,andfansstillparadewreathsinpublic.

TonyLeungChiu-Wai,starofthe2004HongKongfilm‘2046’.TheKobalCollection

Lifeforthemoretraditionalprofessionalartistshasgottougher,sincethelocalsocietyissocommerciallyorientedthatpeopledonothavemuchtimeforseriousart.However,asthecitygetsmoreaffluent,thegovernmentanditscitizensarebeginningtoappreciatethehigh-qualityarts.

ThereareeightprofessionalperformancecompaniesinHongKongandhundredsofamateurgroups.ThemostprominentplayersincludetheHongKongPhilharmonicOrchestra,HongKongRepertoryTheatre,HongKongChineseOrchestraandtheHongKongDanceCompany.Foundedin1985,theAcademyforPerformingArtsinWanChaiisoneofthetopperforming-artsschoolsinAsia.MajorculturaleventsincludetheannualHongKongArtsFestivalandtheFringeFestival.

Thetop5highest-grossing-everfilmsinHKareallHollywoodofferings:Avatar

(HK$178,029,000);Avengers:AgeofUltron(HK$132,747,000);Titanic(HK$128,003,000);

IronMan3(HK$106,390,000);andTransformers:AgeofExtinction

(HK$98,197,000).

TheprofileofChinesecinemahasrisenconsiderablyinrecentyears.HongKongfilmsaregaininginternationalattention,andlocalfilmtalenthasbecomemoreinfluentialfollowingtheachievementsinHollywoodofdirectorJohnWoo,actorChowYun-fatandaction-starJackieChan,aswellasthehighlyacclaimed,idiosyncraticworkofdirectorWongKar-wai.HongKongremainsoneofonlyahandfulofplacesintheworldwherelocallymadefilms(mainlyactionandromance)canstilloutsellHollywood.

BusinessandMoney

MakingmoneyisHongKong’sraisond’être:thefastbuckisreveredandthetycoon’sstatusstops

justshortofbeatification.

Evenwithitslimitedresourcesandspace,prosperityandaffluenceareamongthefirstimpressionsavisitorgetsafterarrivinginHongKong.AtHK$333,645(US$42,964),percapitaGDPisoneofthehighestintheworld,althoughthisisbolsteredbyasmalleliteofsuper-richresidents.ThemedianmonthlyhouseholdincomewasHK$23,500(US$3,027)in2014.Accordingtoa2017Forbesreport,therewere75US-dollarbillionairesandthecityisthoughttohavethesecondhighestconcentrationofmillionairesintheworld.LiKaShing,knownlocallyas“Superman”,istherichestofall:in2017ForbesestimatedhispersonalwealthatUS$31.2billion(hisinitialfortunewascreatedbymanufacturingplasticflowersinthe1950s).Thepost-2008globalrecessionaffectedHongKongfarlessthanmostdevelopedeconomies.

HongKongisacityriddledwithcontradictions.Itcontinuestotoplistsoftheworld’s“freesteconomies”,yetthereisnocompetitionlawandtheproperty-richcartelsdominatemajorsectorsoftheeconomy.AroundhalftheworkingpopulationearnslessthanHK$130,000(US$16,700)peryear,andthewealthgaphasincreasedinrecentyearswith11.6percentofhouseholdssurvivingonanannualincomeoflessthanHK$72,000(US$9,285).

FinancialdisplayboardsinMongKok.

iStock

AneconomicsuccessstoryAnexcellentdeep-waterharbourandastrategiclocationonChina’sdoorstep–thefactorswhichbroughttheBritishhereinthefirstplace–havelongencouragedHongKong’sshippingandtradingbusiness.Todayitistheworld’ssecond-busiestaircargohubandthird-busiestcontainerport.

ForthefirstcenturyofBritishrule,HongKongdevelopedasatradingportthroughwhichChinadidbusinesswiththerestoftheworld,butthisentrepôtrolerapidlydiminishedafterWorldWarII,ascommunistChinabecameincreasinglyisolated.Inashorttime,theeconomyswitcheditsfocustomanufacturing.AlargenumberofmainlandentrepreneursfledhereaftertheCommunistPartycametopowerin1949.Bringingcapitalandbusinessskills,theyre-establishedthemselvesbysettingupfactoriesmakingtextilesandtoys.Asizeableworkforcewasonhandtoprovidethelabour.

Manufacturinggraduallydiversifiedintoelectronics,printing,publishing,machinery,fabricated-metalproducts,plasticproducts(thefamous“madeinHongKong”cheaptoys),watchesandjewellery.Butthisprovedtobearelativelyshort-livedstageinHongKong’seconomichistory.

HongKonghastheworld’shighestproportionofüber-expensivecars.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Sincethelate1980s,mostcompanieshavemovedtheirprocessing

Sincethelate1980s,mostcompanieshavemovedtheirprocessingoperationstoChina,wherelabourisconsiderablycheaper.HongKongcompaniesownhalfofthe400,000orsofactoriesinthePearlRiverDelta.By2015themanufacturingsectoraccountedforjust1.2percentofGDP,downfrom24percentin1984.TodaymanycompanieshaveanofficeinHongKongthatcoordinateswithoverseasclientslookingtohavegoodsmanufacturedinChinaorelsewhereinAsia.Iftheydon’thaveafactoryoftheirown,theysourceoneinChinaorAsia.TheHongKongofficescoordinatepaymentsandshipping,andmayalsoprovidedesignservices,qualitycontrolandproductionservices.Forthemoment,mostbuyersaremoreconfidenttodealwithHongKong-basedcompanies,governedastheyarebyHongKonglaw.

Aswellaslocalsuccessstories,HongKongismaintainingitsroleasamajorinternationalcommercialandfinancialcentre(apositionithasheldsincethemid-1980s).Therearearound3,500internationalcompanieswithregionalofficesinthecity.Tourismisimportanttoo;HongKongwelcomedover59.3millionvisitorsin2015.

InFebruary2017,HongKong’sforeigncurrencyassetsstoodatUS$390.5billion,makingittheworld’ssixth-largestholderofforeigncurrencyreserves.

HongKongisrichwiththestoriesoftycoonswhohaveascendedtothesummit,falleninto

thefinancialabyss,thenclimbedtothetoponcemore,attaininglegendarystatus.

LinkswithChinaThesinglemostimportantfactorinHongKong’scurrentprosperityhasbeentheopeningupofChinatoforeigntrade.

Untilthelate1970s,theHongKongbusinesssectorwasdominatedbyBritishcompanies,knownashongsbytheCantonese.ThefourleadingBritishhongswereJardineMatheson,WheelockMarden,HutchisonWhampoaandtheSwireGroup.Butinthelastfewdecades,energeticandambitiousHongKongChinesegroups,withinvestmentsinshipping,propertyandthetextileindustry,havebuiltnewempiresandtakenoversomeoftheBritish-foundedconcerns.ConsideringmainlandChinatobethebiggestmarketintheworld,HongKongentrepreneurs–withtheirbloodandemotionaltiestothemainlandandtheirknowledgeoftheChinesewayofdoingbusiness–naturallyedgedouttheirBritishrivals.

HongKongershaveasharpeyeforbusiness.Assoonastheyhavesavedenoughmoneybyworkingforotherpeople,manyofthemventure

intotheirownbusinesses.

WiththeadventofDengXiaoping’seconomicreformsinthelate1970s,HongKong’sstrategicpositionastheinternationalcommunity’sgatewaytoChina,andChina’stradewindowtotheoutsideworld,suddenlybecamefarmoreimportant.BothChinaandHKbenefitedhugelyfromtheirfast-developingeconomicties.

ThesedaysChinaaccountsfornearlyhalfofHongKong’stotaltradeingoods,makingthemainlanditslargesttradingpartner.In2015justover56percentofallHongKongexportswenttoChina,andjustunder47percentofallimportedgoodscamefromChina.HongKongremainsthelargestinvestorinChina;itscompaniesemployanestimated12millionpeoplethereandabout240,000HKresidentsworkinChina.Beingpartofamotherlandwithamarketofover1.3billionpeoplejustacrossthebordermeansHKbusinessesareideallyplacedtotargetconsumersinChinaandtohelpinternationalcompaniestapintothevastopportunitiesthere.

CurrencycontrolToprovideastablecurrency,thegovernmentintroducedalinkedexchange-ratesystemin1983thatpeggedHongKong’scurrencytotheUSdollar.ThesystemwasdesignedtoaligninterestrateswiththoseintheUSA’sthenstableeconomy.TheexchangeratewasfixedatHK$7.8toUS$1.However,duringthe1997financialcrisisthatspreadthroughAsia,manypeoplequestionedthewisdomoflinkingHongKong’scurrencytotheUSdollarsorigidly,andthereisstillperiodicdoubtastowhetherthe“peg”shouldremain.TheHKdollarisnowworthconsiderablylessthantheChineserenminbi,whichfloatsagainstabasketofcurrenciesandwhichhasincreasedonanalmostdailybasissince2008.TherenminbihasalreadybecomeAsia’sregionalcurrencyandhasaspirationstoglobalreservecurrencystatus.

TheLandmark,aprestigiousdevelopment.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Thepegstillexists,butiscomingunderincreasingpressureastheUS

Thepegstillexists,butiscomingunderincreasingpressureastheUSeconomycontinuestobattlewithanalmightydebtburdenandothereconomicissues.Ontheotherhand,theUSdollar’srelativelyweaknessoverrecentyearshasmadeHongKong’scurrencymorecompetitive.

Stockmarketgambling

HongKong’sHangSengIndex,whichtracksthevalueofstocksandsharesontheHongKongstockmarket,wassetupin1969andisconsideredthekeyindicatoroftheSAR’seconomichealth.Unsurprisinglyforaplacesoobsessedwithmoney,itappears,prominently,everywhereinthecity:ongiganticscreensinCentral,intaxicabsandouter-islandferries,inelevators,hotellobbiesandshoppingcentres.Thefinancialcrisishitthestockmarkethardand,bytheendof2016,iswasstillaround5,000pointsbelowthehighithitinOctober2007.

HongKong’sotherformofgamblinginvolveshorses(formoreinformation,clickhere),the“Mark6”lotteryand,ofcourse,thosefrequenttripstoMacau.

FurtherreasonsforeconomicsuccessTheglobaleconomiccrisismeantHongKong’seconomyshrankby2.5percentin2009butithasachievedmodestgrowtheveryyearsinceand,overall,hasincreasedbymorethantwo-thirdssince1997.Thegovernmentisquicktopointoutitlikestokeepbusinesspeoplehappy,withitslowandsimpletaxregime:profitstaxiscappedat16.5percent,andsalariestaxat17percent.Thereisnocapitalgainstax,estateduty,VATandsalestax.

CasinogamblingisonlyallowedoffshoreinHongKong,butishugelyimportantinMacau.

Corbis

Thegovernment’slong-standingpolicyofminimuminterferenceandmaximumsupportforbusinesshasbeenakeyfactorinitsprosperity.Asoundlegalandfinancialframework,aconvertibleandsecurecurrency,ahighlyefficientnetworkoftransportandcommunication,askilledworkforce,theenterprisingspiritoflocals,ahighdegreeofinternationalisationandculturalopennessallhelp,too.HongKong’sfinancialmarketshaveahighdegreeofliquidityandtransparentregulations;thefoundingoftheIndependentCommissionAgainstCorruption(ICAC)in1974effectivelystampedoutaseriouscorruptionproblemthatwasstiflinggrowth,andhasbeenofenormousbenefittoHongKong(thoughitisstillkeptbusy).Therearefewplacesintheworldwhereitiseasiertosetupandregisterabusiness.Ontheotherhand,localcompaniesareincreasinglycompetingwithmainlandcompanies,asthepoolofskilledlabourbeginstoextendintoChina.

Forthemoment,HongKong’spositionasgatewaytoChinaseemsassured,butfinancialcommentatorssuggestitmaybeovertakenbyShanghai,whichistippedtobecomeoneoftheworld’stopthreecentresofcommercewithinthenext20years.

Insight:ModernArchitecture

Fewoftheworld’scitiesconfrontthevisitorwiththeirarchitectureasdramaticallyasHongKong,

withitsconstantlyshiftingskyline.

HongKongisacitythatlikestoflauntitswealth,andnowhereisthismoreapparentthaninitsarchitecture.Theacutescarcityofland,particularlyonthedenseurbanstripofHongKongIsland,andconsequenthighprices,havepushedbuildingseverhigherintothepollutedskies.Infacttherearemoretallstructures(over13storeys)herethananywhereelseontheplanet.Showpiecebuildingsviefortheprimespotandthemosteye-catchingdesign,augmentedbygaudynight-timelightdisplays.

ThisbeingHongKong,nothingstaysstillforlong.AtonetimeStJohn’sCathedralwasthetallestbuilding.Intheearly1960s,theMandarinOrientalHoteltookoverthemantle,tobeusurpedbyJardineHouse(1973),theHopewellCentre(1980),theBankofChina(1990),CentralPlaza(1992),IFC2(2003),and,thecurrentincumbent,Kowloon’sICCTower(2010).

Butheightisn’teverything.Withmoneytoplaywith,architectshavebeenabletoproducesometrulyexcitingdesigns.PrimeexamplesareNormanFoster’swidelyadmiredHSBCHongkongHeadquarters,theConventionandExhibitionCentreandI.M.Pei’selegantBankofChinaTower.

HongKongIsland’sconstantlyevolvingskylineneverfailstocaptivate,withtheglassandsteeltowersframedagainsttheforestedbackdropofVictoriaPeak.

iStock

Highdemand,highpricesTheconstructionindustryisbigbusinessinHongKong,andthegovernmentdrawsmuchofitsrevenuefromthesaleofland(incometaxesarelow).Withsupplyexhaustedanddemandashighasever,landhastobereclaimedfromthesea,withconstructioncompanieswillingtoforkoutstaggeringsumsfortherighttobuildonthenewplots.

Incontrasttothehigh-techbuildingsthemselves,thegiantwebsofscaffoldingusedintheirconstructionaremadeentirelyofbamboo.Extremelystronganddurable,bamboogoesupfourtimesfasterthansteel–nonailsorscrewsareused–andwithstandstyphoonsbetter.Therearearound250experiencedbambooscaffoldersinHongKong,whoclamberaboutbarefoothundredsoffeetabovethestreets.Fewusepropersafetyequipment,however,andthereareseveraldeathseachyear.

HongKongIslandhaslongheldamonopolyonsuper-tallglass-and-steeltowers,butKowlooniscatchingup.WiththeendofheightrestrictionsfollowingtheclosureofKaiTakAirport,developmentisrapid–andtheICCTower(ontheWestKowloonreclamation;formoreinformation,clickhere)tookoverfromIFC2in2010asthetallestbuildingintown.TheNewTerritoriesarealsogettinginontheact,withthe319-metre(1,046-ft)NinaToweratTsuenWan.

PosingforapicturebyKowloon’sAvenueofStars.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ChiLinNunnerytemplecomplex,NewKowloon.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Introduction:Places

AdetailedguidetoHongKong,Macau,ShenzhenandGuangzhou,withprincipalsightsclearlycross-referencedbynumbertothemaps.

Today’sHongKongcanbedividedintofourparts:HongKongIsland,theKowloonpeninsula,theNewTerritoriesandthenumerousoutlyingislands.HongKongIslandis75sqkm(29sqmiles)oftopsy-turvyrealestate.TheearliestBritishsettlementswereestablishedhere;itisnowdominatedbygreatbanks,enormousfuturisticbuildings,opulenthotels,splendidresidencesonthePeak,surprisinglyrestfulbeachesandtheterritory’soldestChinesecommunities.AcrosstheHarbour–bytheMassTransitRailway,StarFerryorviaoneofthreetunnels–isKowloon,withitsmillionsofpeoplepackedintojustafewsquarekilometres.TsimShaTsui,thesiteofmanyhotels,barsandshops,ischangingasfastasanywhereinHongKong,withmassivedevelopmentsaboveandbelowground.

FruitandvegetablemarketinYauMaTei.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

BeyondthemountainswhichringKowloontothenorthlietheanachronisticallynamedNewTerritories,leasedbytheBritishfor99yearsandhandedbacktoChina,togetherwiththerestofHongKong,in1997.Amixofemptyhillsides,bucoliclandscapesandbustlingdevelopments,it’saverydifferentsideoftheSAR.Evenmoreremotearethe230-plusoutlyingislands,someofwhichhaveremaineduninhabitedandunalteredsincethedaytheUnionflagwasfirstplantedandsome,likeLantau,whichhavebeenradicallyredesignedtoaccommodateairports,themeparksandmuchelsebesides.Tothewestacrossthesilt-ladenwatersofthePearlRivermouthistheformerPortugueseenclaveofMacau,nowfirmlyestablishedastheworld’sleadinggamblingdestination.Acrosstheborder,thePearlRiverDelta,anchoredbytheever-expandingcitiesofShenzhenandGuangzhou,isoneofAsia’sgreat

ever-expandingcitiesofShenzhenandGuangzhou,isoneofAsia’sgreateconomicpowerhouses.

SignposttoSaiWanVillage.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Localsignage.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Central,WesternandThePeak

Withitsmassofskyscrapers,theworldofbusinessandfinancedominatesCentralDistrict.Incontrast,thetraditionalChinesewayoflifestillthrivesinneighbouringWesternDistrict.GazedownatitallfromtherarefiedheightsofVictoria

Peak.

MainAttractionsStarFerries

HSBCBuildingBankofChinaTower

LanKwaiFongSoHo

ManMoTempleThePeakTram

ThePeak(walksandviews)

CentralDistrict–ChungWaninCantonese–isHongKong’sbusinessandfinancialhub,attheheartoftheincrediblecliff-faceofhigh-risebuildingsthatextendsalongthenorthshoreofHongKongIsland.WedgedbetweentheharbourandtheprecipitousslopesofVictoriaPeak,thisiswherethemoneyis:thefinancialpowerhousesandglamoroushigh-endshoppingmalls,overlookedbythemulti-millionaires’mansionsuponThePeak.

TheCentral-Mid-Levelsescalatorisanextensivesystemofoutdoorcoveredescalators.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Tothewest,SheungWanandWesternDistrictretainmoreelementsofHongKong’spast;thiswastheareathattheBritishestablishedasVictoriaCityinthe1840s,andfromherethecityhasexpandedandgrownineverydirection,includingupwards.ItalladdsuptooneofthemostfascinatingareasofmodernHongKong.

Yet,liketherestofHongKong,therearefewconventionaltouristsightshere:despitetheeffortsofthetouristboardtohighlightthepastwithsuchinnovationsastheSunYat-senTrail,mostofthe“landmarks”enroutearesimplyplaquesrecordingsomebuildingorotherthathaslongsincedisappeared.Instead,thefascinationisinthecontemporary,theeverydaylifeoftheplace,thedramaofthearchitecture,theamazingcontrastsofscaleandthesheerenergy

dramaofthearchitecture,theamazingcontrastsofscaleandthesheerenergythatemanatesfromthecrowdedstreets.

FromlefttorightistheBankofChina,theHSBCBuildingandtheOldSupremeCourtBuilding.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AndalthoughmostofthepedestriansonCentral’sstreetsareattiredforbusiness,andgiantvideoscreensflashthelatestnewsandfinancialfiguresfromaroundtheworldtopassers-by,therearestillstrongelementsofformerdays,withwaysidehawkerssellingnoveltiesandknock-offs,incensestickssmoulderingbytinyshrines,anddeliveryboysserenelypedallingthroughredlightswithacargooffreshmeatbalancedintheirbike’scast-ironbasket.

ThefinancialcentreTheCentralFerryPier1[map],theterminalfortheStarFerryonHongKongIsland,isasgoodaplaceasanytobeginexploringCentral.Withreclamationcontinuallynarrowingtheharbour,theStarFerrynowoccupiesasitenextdoortotheoutlyingislands’ferrypiers.ItfeaturesEdwardian-styleembellishmentsandismoreuser-friendlythanits1950spredecessor,EdinburghPlace,whichsparkedprotestsbyconservationistswhenitwasdemolishedin2007.Havingseenmanysuchupheavalssinceitsformationinthe19thcentury,theStarFerryCompanywasmorephilosophicalaboutthemove.(FormoreontheStarFerry,formoreinformation,clickhere.)ThebeautifullypresentedHongKongMaritimeMuseum(www.hkmaritimemuseum.org;Mon–Fri9.30am–5.30pm,Sat–Sun10am–7pm)tracesHongKong’slongconnectionwiththesea.ThemuseumislaidoutoverthreefloorsofCentralFerryPier8,withthemorethanadozengalleriesincludingalookathistorictradeandsearouteswithbothChinaandtheWestandanimmersivesenseofasailor’slifeatsea.ItmakesforagreatintroductiontotheroleofshippinginHongKong’shistoricdevelopmentandcontemporaryprosperity.

TheprosaicallynamedInternationalFinanceCentre(ifc)2[map],acombinationofsmartshoppingmallandoffices,sitsatoptheAirportExpressCentralterminal.Justtothenorthinfrontoftheferrypiers,andpartofthesamecomplex,istheInternationalFinanceCentreTwo(Twoifc)3[map].Itstandsat415metres(1,362ft),whichmakesitcurrentlythe26th-tallestbuildingintheworld(fully34metres/112fthigherthantheEmpireStateBuilding),andiscappedbyamassofcurvingspires.Whenitwasfinishedin2003,IFC2becamethetallestofHongKong’s7,500-oddhigh-risebuildings,butin2010thattitlepassedtotheInternationalCommerceCentre(ICC)acrosstheharbourinWestKowloon(formoreinformation,clickhere).UnfortunatelythereisnopublicaccesstotheupperfloorsastheyareleasedbytheHongKongMonetaryAuthority.Theauthoritydoesopenuptothepubliconthe55thfloorwiththeHKMAInformationCentre(Mon–Fri10am–6pm,Sat10am–1pm;free)wherethereareseveralinterestingexhibitsonHongKong’sfinancialhistoryaswellasoutstandingviewsoverCentral.Lowerdown,onthefifthfloor,thereisapleasantoutsideterracewithbarsandrestaurantsabovetheLaneCrawforddepartmentstore.ThetowerblockonthewestsideoftheIFChousesthesuper-luxuryFourSeasonsHotel.

Taxissurroundedbypedestrianwalkways.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

WalkwaysconnecttheIFCtotherestofCentralviaExchangeSquare4[map],homeoftheHongKongStockExchange.

HongKongIsland’sskylineincludingtheMandarinOrientalHotel.

MandarinOrientalHotelGroup

HeadeastalongthewalkwaytoJardineHouse5[map],whosedistinctive1,700-plusroundwindowshaveinspiredthenickname“HouseofaThousandOrifices”.Openedin1973(whenitwasknownastheConnaughtCentre),itwasformanyyearsthetallestbuildinginHongKong.JustbehindistheGeneralPostOffice(GPO),andbeyondthatCityHall,whichlostitswaterfrontpositionin2008whenthe(supposed)finalpartoftheCentralWanChaireclamationwasbuilt.

It’spossibletogetagoodoverviewofallthecurrentreclamationandproposalsattheCityGallery(www.citygallery.gov.hk;daily10am–6pm;EnglishguidedtouronSunandpublicholidaysat4.30pm)onEdinburghPlace.Thisfour-floorexhibitionhasanumberofcreativelydesignedandhighlyinteractiveexhibitionsonmajorengineeringprojectsofthepast,presentandfuture.TheadjacentCityHallnotonlyhousesadministrativeoffices,butaconcerthall,theatre,marriageregistryandthreerestaurants,includingthepopularMaxim’sPalace(fordimsum).

Tip

TogetthemostoutofawalkingtourofCentral,visitonaweekdayduringworkinghours,as(LanKwaiFong/SoHoapart)thisisnotoneofHongKong’safter-hourslocations–unlikeTsimShaTsuiandCausewayBay,manyshopscloseby7pm.ShopsareopenonSaturdays,buttheenergisedatmosphereoftheworkingweekislacking.Sundaysarequiet,withshopsshut,althoughtheweeklyFilipinaget-togetherisinfullswing.

EasttoStatueSquareBetweenCityHallandtheGPO,anunderpasswilltakeyoutoStatueSquare6[map]andChaterRoad.OnSundays,throngsofFilipinamaidsgatherhereontheirdayoffinafestiveoutdoorparty.The184,000Philippinenationals,mostofwhomworkhereasmaids,arethejoint-largestforeigncommunitylivinginHongKong–nearlydoublethenumberofBritishandAmericanpassport-holders,whototalaround93,000inall.The2016censusrevealedjustover150,000Indonesianresidents,whohaveasimilarSundayhabitbuttendtomeetupinCausewayBay’sVictoriaPark.

DesignerstoresonDesVoeuxRoad.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

StatueSquarewasoncegracedwithastatueofQueenVictoria,longtransplantedtoCausewayBay,andreplacedbyastatueofSirThomasJackson,anIrishmanwhomanagedtheHongkongandShanghaiBankingCorporationfor30yearsaroundtheendofthe19thcentury.ChineseandexpatriatevictimsofWorldWarsIandIIarecommemoratedattheCenotaph,andHongKong’swarveteransgatherhereonRemembranceDayeveryNovember.

TheMandarinOriental7[map]isoneoftheoldestandgrandesthotelsinHongKong.It’sunusualtomentiontheMandarinwithouttheaccompanyingadjective“venerable”,andatfourdecadesoldit’ssomethingofatreasure.Hong

Kong’stallestbuildingwhenitopenedin1963,thehotelhadaUS$140millionfaceliftin2006tokeepupwiththenewwaveofrivals.

TheLandmarkshoppingmall.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ThispartofCentralDistrictisthefinancialhubofHongKong,hometotheHQofseveralmajorbanks.FacingStatueSquareisNormanFoster’sstrikingUS$1billionHSBCBuilding8[map],oncethemostexpensivebuildingintheworld.Itwascompletedin1985,shortlyafteritwasagreedthatHongKongwouldbehandedbacktoChinain1997,andbuiltinsuchawaythatitcouldhavebeendismantledandshippedtoSingaporehadthingsgoneawry.AshortwayalongDesVoeuxRoad,istheCheungKongCenter,itsdull1999designpromptingthenicknamethe“boxtheBankofChinacamein”.Withfengshuiconcernstothefore,theheightof283metres(927ft)issaidtohavebeendeterminedbydrawingalinebetweentheBankofChinaandtheHSBCBuilding.Asia’srichestman,LiKa-ShingisCheungKong’sCEOandhasofficesonthetopfloorbetweenthefinancialgiants.

Thedramatic368-metre(1,209ft)BankofChinaTower9[map],designedbytheAmerican-ChinesearchitectI.M.Pei,isoneofHongKong’smostfamousbuildings.Openedin1990,itsbolddesignandsharpanglesmake“cutting-edge”anunusuallyaptdescription–andtheseangles,pointingdirectlyatotherfinancialinstitutions,areblamedforchannellingbadfengshuitothem(formoreinformation,clickhere).BehinditisCitibankPlaza,anotherultra-moderntower.

StJohn’sCathedral,thecity’soldestAnglicanchurch.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

OldSupremeCourtBuildingEastofStatueSquareisthecolonial-styleformerSupremeCourtBuildingandone-timehomeofHongKong’sgoverningbody,theLegislativeCouncil(Legco).Builtin1912,itistoppedbyastatueoftheGreekgoddessThemis,anditsEdwardiandomeshowsupbrilliantlyagainsttheBankofChinaTower.ThebuildingwasusedasatorturechamberbyJapanesepoliceduringWorldWarII,andwartimeshrapneldamagecanstillbeseenontheeasternwall.Historycamefullcirclein2015whenthebuilding–closedsinceLegcomovedoutin2011–re-openedastheCourtofFinalAppeal.AcrossJacksonRoad,ChaterGardenisarareopenspacethatmayhostdemonstrators,dancingoff-dutymaidsormunchingofficeworkersontheirlunchbreak.Untilthe1970s,thesitewasoccupiedbytheHongKongCricketClub.TheverandahatthenorthernedgeofthegardenisagreatplacetoviewsomeofCentral’siconicskyscrapers.

ShoppersatGrahamStreetmarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

InlandtoDesVoeuxandQueen’sroadsHeadinginlandfromtheGPO,pedestrianthoroughfarestakeyouoverConnaughtRoadCentraltoDesVoeuxRoad,namedafterSirGeorgeWilliamDesVoeux,governorfrom1887to1891.Thetramstophere,atthejunctionwithPedderStreet,isabluroftrafficonweekdays.ParalleltoDesVoeux,Queen’sRoadCentralwasthearea’soriginal“MainStreet”–untilalittlefootpathwasturnedintoDesVoeuxRoad,whicheventuallyupstagedit.Thesedaysbothareverybusy,althoughQueen’sRoadhasmoreinthewayofshops.

WalkinginCentral

Central’sstreetsarecloggedwithpedestriansandtrafficyearroundandaremoreeasilynavigatedviathenetworkofelevatedwalkways.TheserunfromtheGPO(firstfloor)pastExchangeSquareandtheIFCtotheMacauFerryTerminal,andviaChaterHouseandadjacentbuildingsasfarasthebottomofLanKwaiFong.Numeroussecurityguardsenrouteareveryobligingwithdirections.Itthehottestmonths,itisquiteanexperiencetousethesewalkways–movingbetweenwiltingheatandhumidityandicyair-conditioningasthepassagepassesthroughmallsandofficeblocks.Thecontrastisheightenedbythedecibellevel,whichoscillatesbetweenpipedmusicinthemallsandapiledriverdinonthestreets.

ShoppinglanesandmallsSomeofthesidestreetsconnectingQueen’sandDesVoeuxroadsarewellworthexploring.OnPedderStreet,ShanghaiTangisoneofHongKong’smostsuccessfulhomegrownfashionstores.British-ChineseentrepreneurDavidTang,whofirstbroughttheterritorytheexclusiveChinaClub,thenCubancigars,turnedhisattentiontomakingChinesefashionchic.AcrossthestreetTheLandmark)[map]isaprestigiousshoppingmallwithenormousstand-aloneshopsdedicatedtoluxurybrands,afour-floorHarveyNicholsdepartmentstoreandTheLandmarkMandarinOrientalhotel.Fivefloorssurroundavast6,000-sqmetre(20,000-sqft)atrium.Walkwaysconnectthefloorsaroundtheatriumwithneighbouringbuildings:ChaterHouse,whichhasmorethanhalfadozenGeorgioArmanishopsandanArmanibar;andPrince’sBuilding,withafurtherabundanceofmarbleandupmarketshops.

StreetvendorsselltheirwaresonHollywoodRoad.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Bywayofcontrast,LiYuenStreetEastandLiYuenStreetWest,generallyknowncollectivelyasTheLanes![map],arenarrowalleywayslinedwithstallsandshopsthatsellclothing,fabricsandcounterfeitdesignerfashionaccessories.Bargainingisstillexpected,andtheatmosphereiscompletelydifferentfromthatofthesurroundingshopsandmalls.

CatStreetmarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

PartycentralBehindQueen’sRoadCentral,whichwasthewaterfrontroadbeforelandreclamationbeganinthe1850s,theterrainrisessteeply.D’AguilarStreetleadsuptothenightlifecentreofLanKwaiFong@[map],whichtogetherwithnearbyWyndhamStreetandSoHo(formoreinformation,clickhere),istheprimepartyingareaforHongKong’syoungandtrendy.Moderncuisine,funkybars,clubs,Englishpubsandtinysnackshopsgeneratedollarsandhangoversinequalmeasure,andlate-nightrevellerscangeteverythingfrompizzatosushiintheweehours.Atweekendsmanybarsstayopenuntil5am.

TheCentral–Mid-Levelsescalator.AlexHavret/ApaPublications

ColonialrelicsAtthetopofLanKwaiFong,WyndhamStreetmarksaboundaryofthecommercialandresidentialareas.UphillfromherearethetowerblocksoftheMid-Levels,withdesirableandexpensiveapartments.

Fact

Peopleusuallyassumethatthedark-greenforestedbackdroptothefamousviewacrossVictoriaHarbouris“natural”.Infact,thehillsideswerestrippedoftheiroriginalforestcoveroverthecenturies,anditwasn’tuntilthe1940sand’50sthatreplantingtookplace.Earlyphotographsclearlyshowtheabsenceoftrees,alteringthescenealmostasdramaticallyasthelackofbuildings.

Glenealy(oneofthefewstreetsinHongKongwithoutasuffix)snakessteeplyuphillandeastwardontoUpperAlbertRoadandGovernmentHouse£[map],thegrandhomeoftheformercolonialleadersofHongKong.AfteraspellasastateguesthouseduringtheTungChee-hwaadministration,itisnowtheofficialresidenceoftheChiefExecutiveoftheHKSAR.Themansiondatesfromthe1850sbutwasremodelledbytheJapaneseduringWorldWarII,whoaddedatowerwithavagueShintolook.Thereisaclearviewofthebuildingthroughthewrought-irongates,whichareopenedtothepubliconlyacoupleoftimesayear,usuallyinspringandautumn(nosetdates).

ThesurroundingareaisoneofthefewremainingpartsofHongKongthatretainsagenuinelycolonialfeel.Ifyougoanyfurtherup,thepocketofexoticgreeneryisquicklyinvadedbythehigh-risesoftheMid-Levels;lowerdown,theareaisengulfedbybanksandofficetowers.

Fact

OnHongKongIsland,thehigherthealtitude,themoredesirablethepropertyandthehighertherents–apatternestablishedintheearlycolonialyears,whentheupperslopeswereconsideredlesspronetomalarialmosquitoesthanthoseclosertosealevel.Howhighupthehilloneliveshaslongbeenseenasastraightforwardmeasureofstatus.

OppositeGovernmentHousearetheZoologicalandBotanicalGardens$[map](www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/hkzbg;opendaily6am–7pm;free),alushtropicalretreatworthyofexploration.Thesmallzoohousesavarietyofexoticwildlife,includinganimpressivecollectionofred-cheekedgibbons.Itopenedin1864andstillretainselementsofitsoriginalVictoriangentility,withaddedEasternspiritualitycourtesyoftheelderlyChinesewhopracticet’aichihere.

DiningalfrescoonHollywoodRoad.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

StJohn’sCathedralTuckedawayoppositetheCitibankPlazaonBatteryPathRoad,andjustbelowGovernmentHouse,theVictorianGothicStJohn’sCathedral%[map]wasconsecratedin1849andisthecity’soldestAnglicanchurch.NotethatBatteryPathitselfisapleasantwalk,beginningattheHSBCBuildingandleadingpastthecathedraltoHongKongPark.Theattractivered-brickFrenchMissionBuilding,behindtheCheungKongCenter,isalsomorethan150yearsold.

SoHohasmanyboutiquestoresincludingartgalleries,jewellerystoresandclothesshops.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

HongKongParkFollowBatteryPathtotheeastofthecathedralalongthefootbridgetoCitibankPlazatoreachthelush,greenexpanseofHongKongPark^[map](www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/hkp;daily6am–11pm;free).AsCentral’sonlylargeopenspace,itisbusyalldaylong,witht’aichipractitionersfirstthinginthemorning,joggersandofficeworkers,andbridalpartiesposingagainstabackdropofwaterfallsandshrubs.Theaviary(daily9am–5pm)ishometoover90differentspeciesofbirdsfromtherainforestsofSoutheastAsia,includingvariousbarbets,shamas,fairybluebirdsandbulbuls.Walkthroughagiantmeshupto30metres(100ft)highonaone-wayelevatedwoodenwalkway(enterneartheKennedyRoadentrance).

TheparkisalsohometooneofHongKong’sbestexamplesofbespokearchitecture–FlagstaffHouse,hometotheMuseumofTeaWare&[map](tel:28690690;Wed–Mon10am–6pm;free).Thebuilding–ofmoreinterestthanthemuseum–wascompletedin1846andisreputedlytheSAR’soldestsurvivingcolonialstructure.Itoncefunctionedastheresidenceofthecommander-in-chiefoftheBritishforces,whentheareawasVictoriaBarracks.

AcoupleonthepopularPeakTrail,whichoffersspectacularviewsacrosstheharbour.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AroundtheEscalatorandSoHoThecharacterofCentralbeginstochangeasonewalkswestwardsalongQueen’sRoadCentralawayfromthebanks,shinymallsandshopsandintoanolder,Chineseneighbourhood.TheuniqueMid-LevelsEscalator*[map]runsthroughtheheartofthistransitionalzonebetweenCentralandWesternDistrict,whichinrecentyearshasbecomealivelynightlifecentre.

Theremarkableescalatoritselfwascompletedin1993,atacostofHK$245million.Comprising20separatesectionsandrunningto800metres(2,625ft),itistheworld’slongestoutdoorescalatorsystem.Itwasbuiltpartlytoeasetrafficcongestioninthenarrowstreetsbelow,butthemostsignificanteffecthasbeentorevivetheareasalongsideit.Around54,000pedestriansuseiteachday,doubletheoriginalestimate.

ColourfulManMoTemple.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Theescalatorstartsat100Queen’sRoadCentral,emergingfromthelargely

Theescalatorstartsat100Queen’sRoadCentral,emergingfromthelargelyvacantCentralMarketbuildingtoascendthesteephillside,passingaboveCochraneStreet,acrossHollywoodRoadtoShelleyStreetandthenontoConduitRoad,upintheMid-Levels.Fromearlymorningtosunset,cannyshopperspackGageStreetwherestallssellingfreshmeat,livefishandmorelinethestreetinfrontofnoodleshops,roastmeatshopsandhardwareemporiums.It’sworthdescendingtogroundlevelonGrahamStreettowitnessthemarketstallsdisplayinganastoundingarrayoffreshfruit,vegetablesandherbs.

WalkbackupthehilltorejointheescalatoratHollywoodRoad,famousforitsantiquesshops(formoreinformation,clickhere).

ShoppingatCatStreetmarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Tip

ThestreetsofSoHoareknownfortheirbarsandrestaurants,buttherearealsoalotofgoodshops,mostlyclusteredonStauntonStreet.Ifyou’relookingfornon-mainstreamfashionoraccessories,thisisoneofthebestplacesinHongKong.

SoHo([map]Beforetheescalatorwasbuilt,theareatothesouthwestofthispartofHollywoodRoad–Staunton,ShelleyandElginstreets–wasratherrun-downandseldomvisitedbyoutsiders.Now,asthehubofanightlifeareathathasbecomeknownasSoHo(SOuthofHOllywoodRoad),thesenarrowstreetsarehometoover100cafés,restaurantsandbars,offeringanever-changingmixofvenueswithcuisinesfromallovertheworld,plusboutiquessellingyoungdesigners’clothes,jewelleryandtrendygifts.

DriedfoodonsaleatQueen’sRoadWest.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Withtheescalatorprovidingeasyaccessforpeoplefromthefinancialandbusinessdistrict,andtheupmarketMid-Levelsresidentialarea,SoHoisbusyeverynightoftheweekandaneasyplacefortheout-of-townvisitortofeelcomfortableandnotbetaggedasatourist.Itscosmopolitanvibeandeaterieshavenowspreadinalldirectionsinthestreetsneartheescalator.RestaurateursarealsosettingupshopinGoughStreetaswellasalongPeel,CochraneandAberdeenstreets.ThisareaissometimescalledNoHo,becauseitliestothenorthofHollywoodRoad.

OldBaileyStreethasatypicallySoHoeclecticmixofoutletsthatincludesHongKong’sNewAgeShopandoverlooksthenowclosedVictoriaPrison.TheprisonispartofacomplexthatincludesCentralPoliceStationandHongKongMagistracy,builtinstagesbetween1841and1925.Theattractiveoldcomplexhasbeenredevelopedtorestorethe16originalheritagebuildingsandtoaddtwonewones.ItnowhousestheTaiKwunCentreforHeritageandArts(www.taikwun.hk;daily11am–11pm),openedin2018,aspacededicatedtoexcellentcontemporaryartexhibitions,performingartsshowsandcommunityhistory.

BelowtheformerCentralPoliceStation,WyndhamStreet,whichconnectswithHollywoodRoad,isalsolinedwithrestaurants,withafewartgalleries

interspersed.ItconnectsneatlywiththebijouSoHobistroswiththeboisterousLanKwaiFongnightlifearea.

BuyingtraditionalChinesemedicineonQueen’sRoadWest.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AboveSoHoUphillfromSoHo,betweenCaineRoadandConduitRoad,theonlysiteofnoteamongtheapartmenttowersistheJamiaMasjid,whichwasfirstbuiltin1890andisHongKong’soldestmosque.

IfyouexittheescalatoratCaineRoadandwalkforfiveminutesyouwilldiscovertheDrSunYat-senMuseumand–afewminutes’walkfurtheralong–theMuseumofMedicalSciences.

DrSunYat-senMuseumAddress:7CastleRoad,Central

Tel:23676373OpeningHrs:Mon–Wed&Fri10am–6pm,Sat–Sun10am–7pm

Entrancefee:charge,butfreeonWedTransport:MTRCentral

Housedinabeautifullypreservedmansionbuiltin1914,theDrSunYat-senMuseum,[map]tellsthestoryoftheFatherofModernChina,andhistimeasamedicalstudentinHongKong,exploringthecolony’sroleinshapinghisideasaboutthemodernisationofChina–whichledtorevolution.WhileSunneversetfootinthehall,itisausefulstartingpointforpaintingapictureoftheplacesalongtheSunYat-senHistoricalTrail,whichguidesvisitorsthrough12significantsitesintheCentralandWesterndistricts.

MuseumofMedicalSciencesTheOldPathologicalInstitute,builtin1906tostepupthefightagainsttheplagueandinfectiousdiseasesinHongKong,istodayhometotheMuseumofMedicalSciences⁄[map](www.hkmms.org.hk;Tue–Sat10am–5pm,Sun1–5pm).Thesmallgalleriesincludeareconstructionofanearly20th-centurypharmacy,anautopsyroom,andthecontrastsbetweenWesternandChinesemedicine.AchancetotakeabreakinitssmallChineseherbalmedicinegardenwarrantsadetouronthewaydownCaineRoadorupfromHollywoodRoad.

TakingabreakonthePeakTrail.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

HollywoodRoadtoWesternWestoftheescalator,HollywoodRoaditselfiswellknownforitsabundanceofshopssellingallmannerofChinese(andotherAsian)antiques,notably

furniture,artandornaments.Pricescanbequitehigh,and–asalways–it’sbesttoshoparoundandlookoutforthelogooftheHKTB’sQualityTourismServicesScheme(QTS;formoreinformation,clickhere).

ManMoTempleAddress:124–126HollywoodRoad,Central

Tel:25400350OpeningHrs:daily8am–6pm

Entrancefee:freeTransport:MTRSheungWan

FollowHollywoodRoadwesttothecornerofLadderStreetandthewonderfullydarkandatmosphericManMoTemple¤[map],builtaround1842onwhatmusthavebeenalittledirttrackatthattime.TouristsregularlythrongthroughManMo,butthisdoesn’tinhibitthetemple’sregularworshippersfromvisitingtofillthetemplewiththickcloudsofsmokefromtheirjosssticks.Theimmenseincensespiralshangingfromtheceilingcanburnforweeks.

Manisthegodofcivilservantsandofliterature.FormostofimperialChina’shistory,civilservants–orMandarins–formedthebest-educatedandmosthigh-statussocialgroup.Moisthegodofmartialartsandwar,andismorepopularlyknownbyhisworshippersasKuanTiorKuanKung.StatuesofthelegendaryEightImmortalsstandguardoutsidethetemple;inside,twosolid-brassdeer(representinglongevity)adornthemainchamber.Nearthealtar,therearetwosedanchairsencasedinglass.Yearsago,whentheiconsofManandMowereparadedthroughWesternonfestivaldays,theyweretransportedonthesechairs.

PassengersonthePeakTram.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

LadderStreetandCatStreetThesesmallstreetsaretwoofthemostquirkyofalllocalthoroughfares.Namedforitssteepness,LadderStreetretainsits19th-centurystonestepsandzigzagsdownfromCaineRoad,pasttheMuseumofMedicalSciences,toHollywoodRoadandontoQueen’sRoad.

JustoffthislaststretchofLadderStreet,belowHollywoodRoad,isthestreetofficiallycalledUpperLascarRowbutmuchmorecommonlyknownasCatStreet‹[map],so-namedbecausethiswasoncewheresellersoffloadedstolengoods,or“rat”goodsinCantonese.Customerswhochasedtheratswereknownasthe“cats”.Sellersnowtradeinlegitimatetouristtrinketssuchascommunistmemorabiliaandjade,thoughthe“antiques”maynotalwaysbequiteasoldastheylook.Bargainingistherulehere–whetherforasafetypin,ashoelace,or,ifyoushouldbesolucky,aTang-dynastyporcelainhorse.Theareawasoncefamousforseamen’slodginghousesandbrothels,anditwasahangoutforcriminalsandlow-lifecharactersofallkinds.InnearbyLokKuRoadaretheCatStreetGalleries,whicharedevotedtoartworkandantiquereproductionsfromalloverAsia.

ContinuewesttoPossessionStreet›[map],socalledbecauseitwasherethatCaptainSirEdwardBelcherlandedinJanuary1841toplanttheUnionflagandtakepossessionofHongKongforBritain.NomonumentmarkstheexactspotwheretheBritishflagwasplanted,thoughaHongKongTouristBoardbollardatthejunctionofPossessionStreetandHollywoodRoadgivesaroughapproximation.BelcherStreet,westofPossessionStreet,isnamedafterthefetedcaptainoftheHMSSulphur.

WesternDistrictWesternDistrictislocatedjusttothewestofCentral,butisworldsawayfromtheultra-modernfinancialdistrict.Ironically,consideringitsname,thisisoneoftheleastWesternisedareasofHongKong,andprovidesararehintoftheoldcity.TheareabeginsofficiallyatPossessionStreetandsprawlswesttoKennedyTown.

ThemagnificentviewofHongKongfromthePeak,acrossVictoriaHarbourtoKowloon.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

OneofWestern’scharmsisthatitispackedwithshopsandmerchantstradingintraditionalgoods,tea,riceandingredientsforherbalmedicine.FindaChineseherbalist,withhisaromaticconcoctionsofsnakemusk,herbs,ginsengandpowderedlizards,andyoudiscoverpartofapharmacopoeialtraditiondatingback4,000years.

SheungWanAbufferzonebetweenthesteel-and-glassskyscrapersofthefinancialdistrict,SheungWanisthegatewaytothemoretraditional,andresidential,districtsofSaiYingPunandKennedyTown.Untilrecently,developmentherewasonabuilding-by-buildingbasis,soitisnotunusualtofindmodernedificespokingupbetweenoldertenementbuildings.

HeadinginlandfromtheurbanexpresswayofConnaughtRoad,ManWaLanefi[map]islinedwiththechop-makerswhocarveelaboratenamestampsfromblocksofstone.Thesechopsarenotonlypracticalinstruments(formaldocumentsinbothHongKongandChinarequirea“chop”,usedasasignature),butworksofancientChinesecraftsmanship.WatchingaManWachop-carversculptacustomer’snameoutofasmallblockofstone,ivory,jadeorwoodisaninterestingexperience.Therearemaleandfemalechopstyles:whenbackgroundmaterialiscarvedout,thechopismale;whenthecharactersarecarvedout,it’sfemale.ThechopisalsoimportantinotherAsiancountries,particularlyJapan.

TheheartofWesternAsQueen’sRoadCentralbecomesQueen’sRoadWest,thearchitecturebecomesmoretraditional.Lookoutforthefewopen-fronted“shop-houses”,traditionalwholesaletradinghousesandshopsthatoverflowontothepavementswithauniqueHongKongmixofeverythingfromdailynecessitiestotraditionalChinesemedicine,moneyfromthe“BankofHell”andfuneraryitemstoburnatgravesandhandmadecakemouldsanddimsumbaskets.

WestfromMaWaLanearesomeofthemostaromaticstreetsinHongKong.WingLokStreetfl[map],BonhamStreetandDesVoeuxRoadWestarethecentreoftheChinesemedicinetradeinHongKong.Shopsherespecialiseinsellingherbs,ancientremedies,driedextractsofplantsandanimalparts.Specialistsindelicaciessuchasbird’snestabound,asdostoressellingapungentrangeofdriedseafood,includingabalone,seacucumberand–morecontroversially–shark’sfin.HongKongisamajorcentrefortheworld’stradeinshark’sfin.Oncearegionaldelicacy,eatenoccasionallybywealthyChinesefamiliesinafewareasofsouthernChina,shark’sfinsouphasbecomeextremelypopularthroughoutGreaterChinaasaprestigioustreatatbanquets.Withincreasingwealthintheregion,manyspeciesofsharkarefacingextinction.

OneblockinlandonHillierStreetandJervoisStreetisamixofsmallteashops,cafés,printshopsandmerchantssellingwholesalegoods.Itisagreatneighbourhoodtoexploreonfoot,forpokingintolittlealleysandforgettinglostinthewebofsidestreets.Lookfortheteamerchants,noodlespecialists,Chinesesweetsandpreservednuts,aswellasshopssellingtraditionalChinesepots,pansandbamboosteamers.Onthecross-streets,minusculestallsandworkshopscanoftenoccupylessthan6sqmetres(20sqft)ofspace.

OnMorrisonStreet,closetotheharbour,standsWesternMarket‡[map],ared-brickEdwardian-stylestructure.Itwasopenedin1906andservedformorethan80yearsasafoodmarket.Recognisedasahistoricallandmark,itselegantarchitecturalfeatureswerepreservedandrestored,andin1991itwasconvertedintoashoppingcomplex.Itoffersadiversityofhandicrafts,fabricandsouvenirstalls,aswellasaChineserestaurantonthetopfloor,enlivenedbyafternoon“teadances”.

FromWesternMarketyoucantakeawalkwayacrossConnaughtRoadWesttotheShunTakCentre,whichhousestheMacauFerryTerminal.NowyouareinWesternproper:thenameofthisneighbourhood,SaiYingPun,means“Westernmilitarycamp”andisso-namedfortheBritishcampswhichwere

establishedhereinthe1840s.ThesteepstepsofCentreStreetconnectBonhamRoadwithQueen’sRoadWest,andthearchitecturebetraysthehistoricalboundaries.TheChinesewerenotallowedtoliveaboveHighStreetinthe19thcenturyandthearearetainsaflavourofanolderHongKong,withsmallearth-godshrinesoutsideeachshop.AboveHighStreet,Europeanarchitecturereappears,especiallyaroundHongKongUniversity,whichwasfoundedin1911.

FurtherwestFromWesternitispossibletowalkuptowardstheresidentialdistrictofPokFuLam.ThehillyupperpartofWestern(whichisactuallypartoftheMid-Levels)isquitedifferent.HerethearchitectureismorePortuguesecolonialthantraditionalChinese–withtiledpitchroofs,stuccowallsandprojectingbalconies.TheUniversityofHongKonghasitscampushere.TheUniversityMuseumandArtGallery(www.umag.hku.hk/en/;Mon–Sat9.30am–6pm,Sun1–6pm;free;bus3B,23,40,40Mor103)at94BonhamRoadisworthalook.Housedinthe1930sFungPingShanBuilding,itcontainsaninterestingcollectionofpotteryandporcelaindatingbacktothe7thcentury,althoughthemostprizedpossessionistheworld’slargestcollectionofbronzewarefromtheYuan;contemporaryartisexhibitedintheadjoiningT.T.TsuiBuilding.ItalsohasawelcomingTeaGallerywhereyoucanpauseoveracupofChinesetea.

BeyondtheuniversityistheresidentialdistrictofPokFuLam,whiledownbytheharbour,KennedyTown°[map]isoneofHongKong’soldestChinesesettlements,andoneofthecheapestplacestoliveonHongKongIsland.Alsohereistheresultofanotherhugeland-reclamationproject–theWesternHarbourCrossing,HongKong’sthirdcross-harbourtunneltoKowloon.

ThePeakThePeak,properlythoughrarelycalledVictoriaPeak·[map](ShanTenginCantonese),isHongKong’smostnotablenaturallandmark,theresidentialaspirationoftheupwardlymobilepopulationanddestinationtomorethan7millionvisitorsayear.

Yetitwasn’talwaysregardedwithsuchawe.Atravelwriteroncedescribeditas“beautifulinthedistance,butsterileandunpromisinguponmorecloseexamination”(althoughthatthiswasbeforereforestationtookplace–formoreinformation,clickhere),andduringthefirstsixyearsofHongKong’shistory,hardlyanybodytravelledtoitsinhospitableheights.ButasHongKongdevelopedasacolony,theBritishsoughtoutahillresortawayfromthehot,malaria-infestedlowerelevations.OncethePeakTramwaywasopenedin1888,theareaquicklydevelopedintooneofthemostsought-afterplacestoliveinHongKong–andhasremainedsoeversince.

ThePeakTram

OfHongKong’smanyandimpressiveengineeringmarvels,thePeakTramremainsoneofthemostimpressive.Rising396metres(1,299ft)injustsevenminutes,upgradientsassteepas27degrees(1in2),thetramhasbeenhaulinghumancargoupanddownVictoriaPeaksince1888,andhasn’thadasingleaccidenttodate.Thereareonlytwocars,acluethatthisisnotatramintheconventionalsense,butratherafunicular,withthetwocarriagescounter-weightingeachother.Eachholds72passengersandonedriverandispulledon1,500-metre(5,000ft)steelcableswoundondrums.ThelowerGardenRoadterminuscanbeaccessedbyfreeopen-topdouble-deckerbusfromCentralPier,whiletheupperterminusemptiesoutintothePeakTowermall.Trainsrunfrom7amtomidnightdaily.

ThePeakTramisalsooccasionallyusedbythosewholiveinoneofHongKongIsland’smostgentrifiedneighbourhoods.Inpre-tramdays,long-suffering“coolies”usedsedanchairstotransportthegentryupthemountainside.Suchtransportationdisappearedlongago,butpalanquins–large,coveredsedanchairs–arestillsometimesusedduringcharityraces.

TheupperterminusofthePeakTramisthePeakTowerº[map].Shapedlikeawok,thisisformanypeopleoneoftheugliestbuildingsinHongKong.Ofcourse,themainreasonforcominguptoThePeakistomarvelatoneoftheworld’sfinestvistas,whichonHongKong’sincreasinglyrarecleardaysshouldincludeaviewallthewaytomainlandChina.Manyfindthenight-timeviewsevenmoreincredible,avastglitteringswatheofelectriclight,mostspectacularimmediatelybelowinCentralandWanChaiasthebuildingsattempttooutdoeachotherintheireye-catchingdisplays.ThePeakTowerboastsshopsandrestaurantsplusaviewingplatformatthetopofthe“wok”.FromtheSkyTerrace(www.thepeak.com.hk;Mon–Fri10am–11pm,Sat–Sun8am–11pm)youcanenjoyasuperb360-degreepanorama.ThereisalsoaSkyGallerywith

regularoutdoorexhibitions.Forindoorentertainment,thePeakTowerhasitsveryownMadame

Tussauds(www.madametussauds.com/hong-kong/en/;daily10am–10pm),withover100waxworksofAsianandinternationalcelebritiesthatdelightphoto-op-crazedvisitors.

PeakwalksThereareavarietyofsuperbwalksfromthePeakTower.ThePeakTrailfollowsLugardandHarlechroadstocompleteacircuitofVictoriaPeak,affordingmagnificentviewsacrosstheharbourandKowloontothenorth,CheungChauandLantautothewest,andthegreatmassesofjunksandsampansatAberdeentothesouth,withLammaIslandbeyond.Thisgentle3-km(2-mile)walk,wellsignpostedandshadedfromthesun,takesabout50–60minutesround-tripfromthePeakTower.

TheareaaroundthePeakTowerisinfactVictoriaGap,whereasthesummitofVictoriaPeakitself(552metres/1,811ft)liestothewest.FollowthePeakTrailuntilyoureachMountAustinRoad,whichwindsuptotheattractiveVictoriaPeakGardens.Thesummititself,withitspairofradiotowers,isoutofbounds.

ItispossibletowalkbackdowntoCentralandindulgeinsomeofthefinerviewsandfootpathsthroughThePeak’swoodedslopes.TheCentralGreenTrail–markedby14bilingualsignboardshighlightingpointsofinterest–windsitswaydownfromBarkerRoad,acrossMayRoadandthenviapathsnamedClovelly,BrewinandTramwaybacktotheGardenRoadterminus.Anothershort,steeproutethroughtheforest,signpostedtotheMid-Levels,descendsnorthwardsfromFindlayRoad(justbelowthePeakTower)tothebeginningoftheOldPeakRoad.ApopularlongerwalkdescendswestwardsthroughPokfulamCountryPark,andconstitutesStage1oftheHongKongTrail.Formoreambitioushikers,therestofthetrailheadseastforsome50km(30miles)allthewaytoTaiTamandontoShekO(formoreinformation,clickhere).Nature-loverscanwanderthroughforestsofbambooandfern,stuntedChinesepines,hibiscusandvinesofwonderful,writhingbeauty.Ornithologistslogsightingsofbirdssuchasbluemagpiesandcrestedgoshawks.

Insight:TheStarFerry

CostingjustahandfulofHongKongdollars,thecrossingofVictoriaHarbouraboardoneoftheStarFerriesisaneight-minutevisualfeast.

Fromancienttomodern,fromRolls-Roycetorickshaw,HongKongofferseverymodeofconveyanceforrichandpoor.Buttheterritory’squintessentialtransportistheStarFerry.ShuntingbackandforthacrossVictoriaHarbour,thesegreen-and-whiteferrieslinkthecommunitytogetherinawaythatisbothsymbolicandendlesslypractical.

Thefleetwouldwinfewprizesforglamorousdesign.EventhegrandlynamedCelestialStar(othernamesincludeMorningStar,MeridianStar,ShiningStarandTwinklingStar)isjustoneofadozenjuddering,smoke-belchingpeople-movers.Yettheclankinggangways,weather-beatencoxswainsandsolidwoodendeckshaveatimelesscharacter.

Thefirstofthecurrent“Star”fleetmadetheirmaidenvoyagesin1898,althoughearlierferriesbeganoperatingaquarterofacenturybeforethat.UntilHongKongIslandwasconnectedtoKowloonbyroadtunnelin1972andtheMassTransitRailway(MTR)in1979,theStarFerrywastheprimewaytocrosstheharbour–thesedaysitisgenerallyquickertousetheMTRunlessyouaretravellingbetweenpointsclosetothepiers.

Asreclamationcontinuestonarrowtheharbour,theStarFerryPierinCentralmovednorthwardsin2006.ThelocationisnownexttotheOutlyingIslandsferrypiersinfrontoftheifc2tower.ThedistanceacrosstoKowloonisnowshorterthanever,butjourneytimesremainthesame,aschoppierwatersprolongdockingmanoeuvres.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

HongKong’stramsAkindofdoubleactwiththeStarFerry,HongKong’sfleetofelectrictramswasintroducedin1904,andhasremainedvirtuallyunchangedsince1925,whenthefamiliardouble-deckercarscameintoservice.Someofthe163-strongfleetnowhavecomfyseatingandair-conditioning.Moreareduetobeupgradedovercomingyearsbutmanagershavepromisedthetinkeringwillnotoverwhelmthetrams’antiquatedcharm,enjoyedby230,000peopledaily.

AswiththeStarFerry,ridingthetramisnotonlyoneofthecity’sbestbargains(aflatfareofHK$2.50onweekdaysandHK$3.40onweekends,howeverfaryougo)butalsoagreatwaytosightsee–aslongasyoucangetaseatonthetopdeck,preferablyatthefrontwheretheviewsareaccompaniedbyarefreshingbreeze.It’sagreatvantagepointfromwhichtoobservethecitygoaboutitsbusiness.Aseatattherearofthetopdeckisalsogood,andgiveswonderfulphotoopportunities.

Redecoratedannuallyaccordingtoadvertising-agencywhim,thetrams–knownlocallyasthe“ding-ding”forthebellsthatannouncetheirarrival–rundailyfrom6amuntilmidnight.ThelinerunsrightalongthenorthcoastofHong

dailyfrom6amuntilmidnight.ThelinerunsrightalongthenorthcoastofHongKongIsland:fromKennedyTowninthewesttotheheartofthecityatDesVoeuxRoadCentral,fromwheretherouteproceedsalongQueenswayandthroughthemiddleofWanChaiandCausewayBaybeforecontinuingpastVictoriaParktoNorthPointorShauKeiWanintheeast.AbranchleadsofftoHappyValleyandtheterminussouthofthefamousracecourse.Vintage-styletramscanalsobehiredoutforprivateparties.

WanChaiandCausewayBay

WanChaiandCausewayBayofferatasteofmodernHongKongandhavesomeoftheSAR’s

bestshoppingandnightlife.

MainAttractions

HongKongConventionandExhibitionCentreNightlifearoundLockhartRoadHappyValleyhorseracingCausewayBayshopping

EastofCentrallietwocrowded,vibrantdistrictsthatwholeheartedlyembracethelocalpassionforeating,drinkingandshopping.Hometoalmost200,000people,WanChaiandCausewayBayhaveagreatdealtoofferanyonewishingtosampletheauthenticflavourofmodernHongKong.Thetramline(whichwasonthewaterfrontwhenitwasbuiltatthebeginningofthe20thcentury)runsrightthewaythroughthesedistricts,andprovidescheapandconvenienttransportationaswellasnumerousphotoopportunitiesfromthetopdeck.

HysanPlace,a36-storeyshoppingmallandoffice.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AdmiraltyAdmiralty1[map],bridgingCentralandWanChai,usedtobethesiteofaBritishnavalstation.Thesedaysitisanagglomerationofgleamingofficetowersandsmartshoppingmalls.

FishmongerssellfreshfishatWanChaiWetMarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

WhentheBritishfirstcametoHongKong,theywereunabletofindasuitablesiteforanavalgarrison,soHMSTamarwasmooredoffshorejusteastofCentral(or“Victoria”asitwasthenknown).Manyyearslater,aftertheJapaneseoccupationinWorldWarII,thecompoundwasmovedashore.Afterthehandover,Tamar–asthecompoundbecameknown–wasturnedovertotheChinesePeople’sLiberationArmy,whichcontinuestooccupytheeye-catchingPrinceofWalesBuilding.BesideitistheHongKongCentralGovernmentComplex,whichhousesmeetingsoftheLegislativeCouncil(Legco)aswellastheofficesoftheChiefExecutive.Afteryearsasadustysliverofundevelopedwaterfront,Tamarnowhasawatersidepromenadeandabrandnewpublicpark,andmakesforapleasantstroll.

TheepicentreofAdmiraltyisPacificPlace,oneofHongKong’sritziestmalls,showcasingthetopnamesinfashionandhousingthreeofHongKong’sbesthotels:theConrad,MarriottandIslandShangri-La.

WanChaiFromAdmiralty,itisjustafewminutes’walktoWanChai,whichhaslongelicitedknowingnudgesfromresidentsbecauseofitsreputationasared-lightdistrict–althoughoverthepastyearsmostofthegirliebarshavebeenreplacedbyalivelymixofbarsandpubs.Byday,itisaregularbusinessdistrictwherelocalsheadforlessexpensiveshoppinganddining.

WanChai’smulti-facetedcharacterbuildsupinlayers,startingwiththeolderareabetweenthehillsideandthetramline,whichseguesintothelivelynightlifedistrictaroundHennessyandLockhartroads,andfinallythesmartwaterfrontarea.

Closetothewaterfront(northofmulti-laneGloucesterRoad),inanareasometimesknownasWanChaiNorth,aretheAcademyforPerformingArts2[map]andtheHongKongArtsCentre3[map],twopopularvenuesfortheatricalandculturalperformances.TheArtsCentrealsohasgalleries,rehearsalroomsandacaféwithviewsoftheharbour.

JuttingoutintotheharbouristhefuturisticHongKongConventionandExhibitionCentre4[map],whichunderwentaHK$4.8billionextensioninordertoserveasthevenuefortheformalhandoverceremonyin1997–thebuildingworkwascompleteddays(somesayhours)beforetheceremony.Overadecadeon,theConventionCentreattractsover3.3millionvisitorsayeartoitsexhibitions,conferences,tradeshowsandconcerts.

ThecomplexisadjacenttothesvelteGrandHyattandtheRenaissanceHarbourViewHotel,andfringedontheharboursidebyawaterfrontpromenade.Atitsnorthernmostpointaretworatherodd-lookingstatues.Thetallblack

obeliskistheReunificationMonument5[map],whichwaserectedtocommemoratethehandoverandsignedingoldbyformerChinesePresidentJiangZemin.ItremainsahugelypopularspotfortourgroupsfrommainlandChina.Closebyisthegaudy,goldenForeverBloomingBauhiniaSculpture6[map].ThebauhiniaflowerisindigenoustoHongKongand,astheSAR’semblem,itsfivepetalsareprintedontheHongKongflag.FurtheronpastthetouristcruiseoperatorsisWanChai’sownStarFerrypier,withferriestoTsimShaTsui.

TheheartofWanChaiElevatedwalkwaysleadsouthfromtheConventionCentretothe78-storeyCentralPlaza7[map]officetower,HongKong’sthirdhighestbuildingat374metres(1,227ft),andonintotheheartofWanChaiaroundtheMTRstationandLockhartRoad8[map].

Fromherewestwardsisalivelyneighbourhoodwithnumerousbarsandrestaurantshousedbeneathageingofficebuildings.Duringthe1960s,WanChaiwasafavouriterest-and-recreationdestinationfortensofthousandsoftroopsfightingintheVietnamWar.Itwasduringthisperiodthattheareaearneditsreputationasatawdrybutthrivingred-lightdistrict,capturedinthefamousfilmTheWorldofSuzieWong(1960).Fivedecadeson,afewdiehardgirliebarsonLockhartRoadremainandcanbeeasilyidentifiedbytheirblack-curtaineddoors.Today’sWanChaiisamixofbarsandall-nightestablishmentsthatpullinavariedmixofexpats,localsandout-of-towners,whostartoffinmoreexpensiveareaslikeLanKwaiFongandSoHo,thengravitatetoWanChaitoletrip.

ThereareafewratheranachronisticBritish-stylepubsinthearea,butinternational-stylebars–withsportsandmusiconplasmascreensandayoungclientele–arethemoretypicalafter-hoursoffering.

NeonsignslightupLockhartRoadbynight.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Queen’sRoadEastTwoblocksinlandfromLockhartRoad,crossthetramtracksonJohnstonRoadandtakeawalkthroughWanChaiStreetMarket.WanChai’shugeurbanregenerationprojecthasseensomeshophouses(tonglau)torndowninfavourofoffices–butothershavebeenpreserved,forinstancethefourelegantlyrestoredtenementbuildingsat60–66JohnstonRoad.

Beyondthemarket,Queen’sRoadEast9[map]istheplacetotrackdownhomefurnishingsofallkinds,fromcool,moderndesignershopstoChinesetraditionalrosewoodfurniture.

ThisneighbourhoodalsohastwotraditionalChinesetemplesthatprovideaglimpseoftheoldwayoflifeinstarkcontrasttotheirmodernsurroundings.OnQueen’sRoadEastnexttoanarrowlaneofstepsleadinguptowardstheMid-Levelsisthetiny,darkHungShingTemple.Legendhasitthatthistemple,builtontopofhugeboulders,wasnamedafteraTang-dynastyofficialwhowasrenownedforhisextremevirtueandhisabilitytomakepredictionsthatprovedtobeofgreatvaluetotraders.Perhapsbycoincidence,severalsmallbanksintheneighbourhoodarefilledwithgroupsofelderly“traders”whostareatcomputerscreenstofollowtheshare-pricemovementsofthestockmarket.

AHungShingTempleinWanChai.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

MuchmoreimpressiveisthePakTaiTemple)[map]atthetopofStoneNullahLane,atriple-halledtemplenotedforits400-year-old,3-metre(10ft)statueofthedeityPakTai,whoassuresharmonyonearth.Thetempleitselfwasnotbuiltuntil1863.Thereareusuallyoldmenandwomenpotteringaroundinthedarkrecessesofthetemple,lightingincensesticksorlayingoutofferings.

BackonQueen’sRoadEast,theformerWanChaiPostOffice(1912),onthecornerofWanChaiGapRoad,nowhousestheEnvironmentalResourceCentre(Wed–Mon10am–5pm).Takealookinsideattheoriginalwoodencounterandredpostboxes;nature-loverscanpickupaleafletonthe1.5-km(1-mile)WanChaiGreenTrail,whichstartsbesidetheoctogenarianmangotreeandgiantcandlenuttreejustoutside.

Takeaturnup19th-centuryShipStreettodiscovertheshinynewWanChaionStarStreetwithloungebars,teashops,restaurantsandPacificPlaceThreeofficetower.

298ComputerCentreinCausewayBay.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

HappyValleyAttheeasternendofQueen’sRoadEastisoneoftheoldestsettlementsonHongKongIsland,developedafterearlycolonialsettlersabandonedWesternDistrictduetomalaria.ThissecondsettlementwasnamedHappyValley,reportedlybecauseacartographer’sgirlfriendacceptedhisproposalofmarriagethere.Itwasfarenoughfromthesea,somewhatdesertedand,importantly,didn’thavemalaria-riddenricefarmsinitsvicinity.

ShortlyaftersettlinginHappyValley,thecolony’sresidentscreatedthegreenswardandedificethathasmadetheareaworld-famousamongsthorse

racingfans:theHongKongJockeyClub’sHappyValleyRacecourse![map].DuringtheSeptembertoJulyseason,racesareheldheremostWednesdaynights–aswellasatShaTinRacecourseattheweekend.AnightoutattheHappyValleytrackisaquintessentialHongKongexperienceandlessexpensivethanmost(formoreinformation,clickhere).

Ifyoucan’tmakeittotheactualraces,visittheHongKongRacingMuseum(dailynoon–7pm,andtill9pmonracenights;free),attheHappyValleyStandinsidetheracecourse.ThemuseumhaseightgalleriesandavideopresentationthattellthehistoryofhorseracinginHongKong,andthelocals’all-consumingobsessionwithit.

ThebusycrossingbySogodepartmentstore.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Tip

OnthehillsideaboveHappyValley,the4km(2.5-mile)BowenRoadwalk(accessedviaStubbsRoad)isoneofHongKong’sbesturbanstrolls.Alongtherouteyou’llcometoLovers’Rock,wherelocalsflockonthe6th,12thand26thdaysofeachlunarmonthtolightjosssticks,hangwinebottlesonthetreeoppositetherock,andprayforharmoniousmarriages.

AbovethevalleyForpanoramicviews,headuptoleafyBowenRoadandLovers’Rock.Formoregoodviewsoftheharbour,branchoffuphilltotheleftatWanChaiGapRoadforthePoliceMuseum@[map](Tue2–5pm,Wed–Sun9am–5pm;free).ThemuseumtracesthehistoryoftheHongKongpoliceforce,packedwithinformationonillegalnarcotics,triadsandoccasionalodditiessuchasthestuffedheadofatigershotin1915afteritkilledapoliceman.

EveryyeartensofthousandsgatherinVictoriaParktomournthosewhodiedintheTiananmenSquareprotestsof1989.

123RF

CausewayBayBeyondCanalRoadtotheeastofWanChaiisCausewayBay(TungLoWan),oneofHongKong’spremiershoppingareasandahiveofactivityfromearlymorninguntillateatnight.

NighttimeshoppingonJardine’sBazaar.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

CausewayBay’smodernhistorybeganin1972whenthefirstCross-HarbourTunnelopenedtolinkHongKongIslandandKowloonbyroadforthefirsttime.Therearenowthreecross-harbourtunnels,butthisoneisstillthebusiest.Ittransformedtheneighbourhoodintoathrivingurbanarea,whichthesedaysisbestknownasaplacewhereyoucanshopanddinelateintothenightandwhereretailspaceissomeofthemostexpensiveontheplanet.Thestreetsareoftencrowdedtothepointofbeinguncomfortable,evenbyHongKongstandards,andpollutionlevelsarenotoriouslybad,exacerbatedattimesbythe“canyoneffect”ofitsnarrowstreetsandtallbuildings,whichtrapexhaustfumes.

TimesSquare£[map],afewblockssouthofthecrossroadsnearSogoDepartmentStoreinCausewayBay,isthearea’sbiggestmall,with14floorsof

shopsandrestaurants,plusacinema.Thestreetsaroundincludeanexhaustivemixoffactoryoutlets,designerboutiquesandhigh-endfashion.Therearealsotwoothermajormallsnearby,theelegantLeeGardensontree-linedHysanAvenue,andHysanPlace,offLeeGardenRoad.

TheHongKongrugbysevenstournament;internationalteamscompeteattheHongKongfootballstadium.Dreamstime

OnthewaterfrontThebayherewasspannedbyacausewaybeforeitdisappearedintoagreatland-reclamationprojectinthe1950s;theformercoastlineistracedbyTungLoWanRoad,whilethepresent-day“bay”isoccupiedbytheRoyalHongKongYachtClub(nostalgicmembersvotedtokeeptheclub’sroyaltitle,althoughtheChinesetranslationmakesnoallusiontotheHouseofWindsor)andtheTyphoonShelter.

ThispartofHongKong’swaterfrontfeaturestheNoonDayGun$[map],

apeculiarcolonialrelicthatwasreferencedinNoëlCoward’sMadDogsandEnglishmen.Nobodyknowsforsurewhythegunisfiredatnooneveryday,butthestorygoesthattheritualdatesbacktothemid-19thcentury(althoughthepresentcannonwasinstalledin1982),whenoneoftheJardine’sopiumshipssailedintotheharbourandanover-excitedminiongavethevessela21-gunsalute.Theegotisticalgovernorwasincensedthatameretradershouldreceivethesamegreetingashimself,soheorderedthatthegunbefiredatnooneverydayinperpetuity.Despitethedemiseofthecolonialera,the(Jardine-owned)traditionlookslikelytocontinuejustaslongasJardinekeepstrading.

VictoriaParkCausewayBayisboundedontheeastbyVictoriaPark%[map],namedafterQueenVictoria,whosestatue(movedherefromStatueSquareinCentralafterWorldWarII)canbeseensurveyingtheactivitiesofherformersubjects.Oneofthelessloyaldaubedherwithredpaint,andtracesarestillvisibledespitetheeffortsofcleaningstaff.Thiswelcomeswatheofparklandhasaswimmingpool,joggingtracksandtenniscourtsandispopularwitht’aichidevoteesintheearlymorning.Tensofthousandsofpeoplegatherhereonspecialoccasions,suchasChineseNewYear(whenflowermarketsdominate)and,notably,duringtheMid-AutumnFestival,whentheparkisilluminatedwithlanterns.

AtthesouthernmostreachofCausewayBay,thestrikingformofthe40,000-seatHongKongStadium^[map]istheSAR’slargestoutdoorvenue,andhosttotheannualRugbySevens.

TheRugbySevens

TheHongKongRugbySevensisoneofthebiggestpartiesinthecity.Twenty-fournationalteamstakepartattheHongKongStadiuminCausewayBay,andtheatmosphereandfestivitiesmakeforariotousevent.TheSouthStandisinfamousastheplacewhereelaboratefancydressandheavydrinkingaretheorderoftheday.

HeldonthethirdweekendinMarch,ticketsselloutquickly(www.hksevens.com).Ifyoumissout,it’spossibletosharesomeoftheatmosphereinthemarqueesattheSevensVillage,nextdoorinthegroundsoftheIndianRecreationClub.Matchesareshownliveonahugeplasmascreenwithhandybaraccess,andthepartygoesonintothenight.

NorthPointandbeyondBeyondVictoriaPark,theurbanstripcontinuesmoreorlessunbrokenallthewaytoShauKeiWan.Ifyouhavethetime,itisinterestingtotakeatramthroughtheseresidentialareas(youcanthenreturnwestwardsmorerapidlybyMTR).You’llpassthroughtheoldShanghaineseresidentialneighbourhoodofNorthPointtothenewlyemergingbarsandrestaurantsofQuarryBay,andtheshoppingextravaganzaofTaiKooShing.

FurthereastatShauKeiWan,theHongKongMuseumofCoastalDefence&[map](http://hk.coastaldefence.museum;Fri–Wed10am–6pm,Oct–Febuntil5pm;freeonWed),detailsHKmaritimemilitaryhistory.Themuseumishousedina19th-centuryfort,15minutes’walkfromShauKeiWanMTRstation.TheHongKongFilmArchive(www.filmarchive.gov.hk;Fri–Wed10am–8pm,or15minutesafterlastscreening)nearSaiWanHoMTRisalsowellworthalook,whiletheup-and-comingstripofbarsandrestaurantsatLeiKingWan(akaSoHoEast)isjustaroundthecorner.

Insight:HorseRacing

TheWednesdayeveningracesunderfloodlightsatHappyValleyareoneofthemostenjoyable

nightsoutinHongKong,withagreatatmosphereandexcitement.

FromSeptembertoJuly,there’sabuzzintheairmostWednesdaysonHongKongIsland,asformguidesandnewspaperpunditsarecarefullystudiedaheadofthefloodlitnightracesonturfatHappyValleyracetrack.MostvisitorswhoattendsaythatthisisoneofthemostenjoyableexperiencesoftheirtimeinHongKong.

CatchatramtoHappyValleyortakeataxi(askyourdriverforaracingtip–youcanthenofcoursetiphimtoreturnthefavour),payHK$10atthepublicentranceandthenwanderbetweenthetracksidebeergarden,open-airorair-conditionedstands.Dresscodeiscasualandrefreshmentsarecheap,withgood-qualitypizzaslicesandmeatskewerscostingjustHK$40,andjugsofbeerstartingatHK$125.Thereareuptoeightracesbetween7.15pmand11pm.

TheHKTBoperatesaComeHorseracingTourthatwillpickyouupfromyourhotelandprovideseatsintheVisitors’Box,withabuffetandopenbarforHK$1,090perperson.

TheweekendracesatShaTinseeevenlargercrowds(withfarfewertourists).Thetrackhostedtheequestrianeventsatthe2008Olympics.

Alamy

HowtobetEvenifyouareacompletebeginneratthehorses,itisveryeasytojoinin.TheJockeyClubproducesaguideinEnglishfortheWednesdaynightracesthatclearlydetailstheform,trainer,owner,jockey,etc,ofeachhorse,andletsyouatleastpretendyouaremakinganinformedchoice.MostcounterstaffspeakgoodEnglishandarepatientwithnon-gamblingforeignershavingaflutter.

ThesimplestpuntisforaWin.OptforaPlaceandyourhorsehastocomefirstorsecondiflessthansevenhorsesstart,orinthetopthreeifsevenormorestart.ForaQuinellayouchoosethreehorses,andifanytwoofthemfinishinthetopthreeyou’reawinner.ForaTrioyoubetonwhichhorseswillcomeinthefirstthreeplaces,butinanyorder,whileaTierceisthesamebutmustbeinthecorrectorder.MinimumbetisHK$10.Thereareleafletsavailabletoexplainallbets.

TheSouthSide

ThesouthernpartofHongKongIslandactsasalteregotothecommercialnorth.ExceptforthebusyspotsofAberdeenandStanley,muchofthecoasthereisrelativelyunspoiledanduncrowded.

MainAttractions

AberdeenOceanPark

RepulseBayBeachStanleyMarket

BigWaveBayandShekO

IncontrasttothenortherncoastofHongKongIsland,whichhaschangedalmostbeyondrecognitioninrecenttimeswithsuccessiveland-reclamationprojects,therockysouthernshorelineremainsmoreorlessasnatureintended.Therearefourcountryparkshere,alongwith290,000orsoresidents,someofwhomliveinthemostsought-afterrealestateintheSAR.WithitslushvegetationandsweepingviewsoftheSouthChinaSeaandoutlyingislands,thisistheeasiestplacetoescapetheheavilyurbanisedstripontheothersideofthemountains.OceanPark’spandas,dolphinsandhair-raisingridesareamajordraw,whileelsewheretherearesomegoodbeaches,challengingwalksandpleasantvillagestodiscover.

FunforthewholefamilyatOceanPark.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Tip

BusesfromExchangeSquare,Central,tothesouthernpartsofHongKongIslandinclude:no.70,themainroutetoAberdeen,andnos.66and260,whichruntoStanleyandRepulseBay.ForOceanPark,takenos.629or629A(expressservice)fromtheAdmiraltyMTRstation;ShekOisbestaccessedbytakingno.9fromtheShauKeiWanMTR.

AberdeenTheharbourtownofAberdeen(HeungGongTsai)1[map]istheonlyplaceonthesouthcoastwithanurbanfeel.ItcanbereachedbyroadfromKennedyTownthroughtheresidentialdistrictofPokFuLamandpasttheCyberportdevelopment,althoughmostvisitorstakeamoredirectroutesouthfromWanChaithroughtheAberdeenTunnelalongStubbsRoadandMagazineGapRoad.

WatchingthesunsetatShekO.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

NamedaftertheearlwhowasSecretaryofStatefortheColoniesin1848,Aberdeenischieflynotableforthehugenumbersofvesselsbobbinginthewateralongitsshoreline,andtheover-the-topJumboKingdom’sfloatingrestaurants(formoreinformation,clickhere).Nolongerafishingvillage,themaintownisnowallhigh-risesandconcrete,butthenaturaltyphoonshelterispackedwithboatsofallkinds,fromwoodenfishingboatsandkaidos(smallcargoboats)toferries,junks,sampansandyachts.Afloatingpopulationofaround20,000peopleoncelivedinboatsinAberdeenharbour,buttodaymostoftheirdescendantshaveoptedforre-settlementinhigh-riseaccommodationondryland.Withfishstocksdown80percentsincethe1950s,HongKong’sfishingindustryisindecline,hardhitbyoverfishingandpollution.Whileafewpeoplearelivinginrelativeluxuryonmodernjunksintheharbour,mostofHongKong’s“boatpeople”arefromtwomainethnicgroups:theTanka(literally,theeggpeople,socalledbecausetheyusedtopaytaxeswitheggsratherthancash)

andtheHoklo,originallyfromFujianprovince.Aridethroughtheharbourisaninterestingexperience.Eagersampan

drivers,oftenpersistentelderlywomen,areusuallyonthelookoutfortouristsandwillofferrides(youwillprobablyhavetobargainforaprice:HK$60–80for20minutesisaboutright).Alternatively,lookoutfortheJumbosignsontheharbourfront,andyoucanhoponthefreeshuttleboatforafive-minuteridetotheflamboyantfloatingrestaurants.OppositetheJumbo,thesleekwhiteyachtsareownedbymembersoftheAberdeenMarinaClub,whichisoneofthemostexclusiveandexpensiveprivateclubsintheSAR.ThisareaisalsohometosomeofHongKong’slastboat-buildersandrepairers.

Jumbodining

Openedin1976,theirresistiblykitschJumboFloatingRestauranthasbeenpartoftheAberdeensceneryfordecades.TheJumboseatsmorethan4,000dinersandisoneoftheworld’slargestfloatingrestaurants.Gaudydragonsgreetyouattheentranceandfairylightsmarkouteverycurveandlineofthevessel.AmalgamatedwiththesmallerandslightlylesspalatialTaiPakFloatingRestaurant,“JumboKingdom”isself-declared“themeparkonthesea”andamagnetforselfie-takingtourists.

ThereisafreeshuttlefromtwoclearlymarkedpiersontheAberdeenwaterfront.Hoponandtakealookaroundthewell-stockedfishtanksandtheteashop.Thefoodintheindoorrestaurantshasimprovedinrecentyears,butisn’tthebestinHongKong.Thatsaid,theformerrooftopstorageareahasbeenconvertedtoabarrestaurant,TheTopDeckattheJumbo,andisagreatplaceforadrinkoralightmeal,withoutdoorseatingandpanoramicviewsacrosstheharboursampansandluxurycruisersinthetyphoonshelter.

AberdeenChinesePermanentCemetery.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TinHauTempleBackondryland,theTinHauTempleonAberdeenMainRoadisrathershabbyformostoftheyear,butcomesaliveduringtheTinHauFestivalinAprilorMay,whenthousandsofboatsconvergeonAberdeen’sshoresandthetempleisdecoratedwithpapershrinesandlanterns.Liondancesareperformedoutside–aneventthat’schargedwithatmosphereandhighlyphotogenic.

SparklinglightsontheJumboFloatingRestaurant.

HKTB

AlongthepromenadeTheAberdeenpromenadehasbeenbrightenedupinrecentyearsandnowfeaturesplaquestellingthestoryofthetownandtheboat-dwellers.Atitswesternend,theAberdeenWholesaleFishMarketisatitsbusiestinthemorning,whencustomersturnuptoselectandcollectthebestproduceforseafood-lovingHongKongdiners.

UponthesteephillsideabovethefishmarketisthequaintlynamedChinesePermanentCemetery,enteredthroughapagoda-stylegate.FromthecemeterythereisanexcellentviewacrossAberdeen;higherstillisthestartingpointforvarioushikesintheAberdeenCountryPark.

OceanParkisoneofHongKong’sbiggestattractions.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TheshorelinearoundtheAberdeenTyphoonShelterthatconnectsthetown’swaterfrontwithnearbyOceanParkincludesapromenadeinthewesternsection.In2016theSouthIslandMTRlineextensionreachedthisarea.

FurtherwestalongthecoastisthecontroversialCyberportdevelopment,whichhasstruggledinmeetingitsoriginalambitiontobecomeHongKong’shi-techcentre.

ApLeiChauAcrosstheharbourfromthebumper-to-bumperfishingboats,thehigh-risetowersofApLeiChau(Duck’sTongueIsland)2[map]packinalmost90,000people.ThemainreasontodetourhereistovisitHorizonPlaza,onLeeWingStreet,aformerwarehousenowpackedwith28floorsofshops.Aswellasfloorafterfloorofcontemporary,antiqueandreproductionfurniturestores,carpetstores,andgourmetfoodandwineoutlets,HorizonPlazaalsohasdesignerfashiondiscount“warehouses”.

OceanPark3[map]Address:WongChukHang;www.oceanpark.com.hk

Tel:39232323

Tel:39232323OpeningHrs:daily10am–6pm

Entrancefee:chargeTransport:629OceanParkCitybusfromCentralpiersandOceanParkMTR,973fromTsimShaTsui(StarFerry)FromAberdeen,goeastpastthePolice

TrainingSchoolatWongChukHangtooneofHongKong’sbiggesthomegrownattractions.Openedin1977atacostofHK$150million,OceanParkisacombinationofthemeparkandoceanarium.Thecomplexisdivided

intotwosections,alowlandsiteandaheadlandsite,linkedbya1.4-km(1-mile)cable-car.FormoreonOceanParkformoreinformation,clickhere.

EasttoRepulseBayBeyondOceanParktotheeastisaregionofrockycoastsandsmoothwhitesands–hometo12ofHongKong’s40gazettedbeaches.OnsummerweekendsitcanseemasifhalfthepopulationofHongKonghavemadetheirwayhere.Afewlocations,suchasRockyBayontheroadtoShekO,havevirtuallynopublicfacilities,butofferunparalleledviewsanduncrowdedstretchesofsandandsea.Others,likeRepulseBay,attractbus-loadsoftourists,fast-foodrestaurantsand,atweekends,aboutasmuchpeaceandquietasacarnival.RepulseBay,Stanley,TaiTamandShekOarealsohometoseveralresidentialdevelopmentsthatcommandsomeofthehighestreal-estatepricesandrentsintheworld.

ShopsandcaféslineStanley’swaterfrontpromenade.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

DeepWaterBay4[map],thefirstbeachbeyondAberdeenandOceanPark,hassomebeautifulmansions,andisreputedtoenjoysomeofthebestfengshuiinHongKong.Italsohasanine-holegolfcoursemanagedbytheHongKongGolfClub(openweekdaystothepublic).FurtheralongtheroadistheexclusiveHongKongCountryClub.Thelongstretchofbeachhereoffersaquietplacetosoakinthesunorgoforaswim.

ShoppingforbargainsatStanleyMarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

RepulseBayRepulseBay(CheenSoyWan)5[map]iseasilyidentifiedwhenyouseetheapartmentblockwithasquareholeinthemiddle.ThebaywasnamedafterthebattleshipHMSRepulse,whichtookanactivepartinthwartingpirateswhoplunderedhereinthemid-19thcentury.NowwidenedtoseveraltimesitsoriginalsizeanddevelopedintoaplaygroundfortouristsaswellasurbanHongKongers,RepulseBayBeachhaseverythingexceptpeaceandquiet.

Thehillsthatrisesteeplyfromtheshorelinehaveasombrehistory.ItwasherethatinvadingJapanesetroopscamepouringdownattheendof1941duringWorldWarII.TheRepulseBayHotel,onceoneofthefinesthotelsintheEast,wasamilitarytargetbecauseBritishandCanadiantroopsuseditasabasetokeepopentheroadbetweenStanleyandAberdeen.Afterthreedaysoffighting,thehotelwastaken,andCommonwealthprisonersweremarchedtoEucliffe

thehotelwastaken,andCommonwealthprisonersweremarchedtoEucliffeMansion(thisfollyhasalsobeendemolishedandreplacedbyvillas),abouthalfakilometre(1⁄3mile)fromthehotel.Mostoftheprisonerswereexecuted,andsurvivorswereincarceratedattheStanleyInternmentCamp.

ShekOhasoneofthebestbeachesinHongKong.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Thehotelwasalsodemolishedinthe1980s,andonthesitetodayisTheRepulseBay,aluxuryapartmentcomplex;ithascapturedsomeoftheold-worldstyleinitsrenownedrestaurantswithverandasoverlookingthelawnandbeach.Thecomplexincludesthefamousblueapartmentbuildingwiththeholeinitsmidst.

Tip

Thelargeblueapartmentbuildingwiththebigsquareholeinthemiddleisthebest-knownsightinRepulseBay.Somesaytheholeisapassagewayfortheheavenlydragontocomedownfromthemountains;otherssayitwasputtheretogenerategoodfengshui;stillotherssayitwasjustthearchitect’sattemptatbeingfunky.AreplicaoftheoldRepulseBayHotelstandsinfrontoftheapartmentblock,preservingasoupconofgracefromdaysgoneby.

StanleyFifteenminutes’drivefurthersoutheastisStanley(ChekChu)6[map],popularwithHongKongresidentsforitsrestaurantsandseasideambience.NamedafterLordStanley,a19th-centurySecretaryofStatefortheColonies,StanleywasthelargestindigenoussettlementinHongKongwhentheBritishfirstsetfootherein1841.Infact,thelocalTinHauTempledocumentsthatthetownwasfoundedin1770bythepirateCheungPoTsai,whohadtakencontroloftheisland.

Southcoastbeaches

Iftheweather’sgoodandthewater’sclear,HongKong’sbeachesaregreatplacestohangout.Atotalof40ofthemaregazetted(10onthesouthcoastofHongKongIsland),whichmeanstherearefacilitiesincludingtoilets,showers,changingrooms,barbecuepits–andlifeguardsfromMarchtoNovember.Thesandsarekeptclean,butwaterqualityvariesdramatically–ratingsarepostedatlifeguardstations(alongwithalonglistofthingsyouarenotallowedtodo).

ThenearestbeachtoCentralisatDeepWaterBay,whilealongthecoastisthelarger,butmorecrowded,RepulseBaybeach.SouthBay(NamWan),justbelowRepulseBay,hasarelaxedbeachsceneandthebestviewofthesunset.AtweekendsDJsattheopen-airSouthBayBeachClubprovideasoundtrack.StStephen’sisthenicerofStanley’stwobeachesandhasawatersportshirecentre.TheeastsideofCapeD’Aguilarhasthebestsurf:BigWaveBayistheplaceforsurfersandhasasurfhireshop,whileShekOattractsamixedgroup–beach-goersandsurfersjostlewithboogieboarders,swimmersandinflatables.

WhattoseeinStanleyStanleyMarket(www.hk-stanley-market.com;daily10am–7pm),theprincipalattractiononStanleypeninsula,drawsthousandsofvisitorsatweekends–localsinsearchofabargainaswellastouristslookingforsouvenirstotakehome.AfewstepsfromNewStreet,wherethebusesstop,isanextensivecoveredmarketpackedwithshopsandstallssellingclothes(factoryover-runsorseconds),rattan,freshfood,ceramics,budgetart,hardware,brassobjects,Chinesecrafts–infact,almostanything.

Attheendoftheopen-frontedrestaurantsandbarsalongMainStreet,whichskirtsStanleyMainBeach,thereisamodernshoppingmall,directlyoppositeoneoftheSAR’smostimpressivearchitecturalprojects.MurrayHouse,aformerBritishArmybarracksdatingfrom1848,wasmovedstonebystonefromCentral(itwaslocatedonthesitenowoccupiedbytheBankofChinatower)andrebuiltonthewaterfront.Ithousesanumberofsuaverestaurants,manyofwhichhaveseaviews.

TheOldPoliceStation

EastofthebusterminusistheOldStanleyPoliceStation,oneof94declaredmonumentsinHongKong.TheearlyBritishsettlersregardedapostingtoStanleyPoliceStation(builtin1859)ashighlydangerous.OnlyadirttrackconnectedthetowntothecityofVictoria(nowCentral),andpiratesfrequentlyattackedandrobbedthegarrison.Stanleywasallbutabandonedinthe1850s,untiltheoriginalpolicestationwasreplacedbythebuildingwhichstandstoday.ThestationisalsothoughttohavebeenthelastpointofresistancetotheadvancingJapaneseforcesintheBattleofHongKongduringWorldWarII.OnChristmasDay1941,thetown’scommandingofficerrefusedtobelievetheBritishhadsurrendered,andsothetownfoughtonforadayaftertroopselsewherehadlaiddowntheirarms.ThatthishistoricbuildingiscurrentlyoccupiedbyasupermarketsaysagreatdealabouttheparlousstateofHongKong’sheritage.

Tip

IfyouaretravellingdirecttoStanleyfromCentral,taketheno.6busfromExchangeSquare,whichbypassestheAberdeenTunnel.You’llhavethebestviewsfromthetopdeckgoingoverthetopalongWongNaiChungGapRoad.Passspindlyskyscrapersappearingprecariouslybalancedonthehillside,andenjoytheinexpensivewhite-knuckleridedowntoRepulseBayandStanley.

OthersightsDowntheroadisStanleyPrison,whichisstillinuse,whilethetwo-storeybuildingtoppedwithamockguardtowernexttoitsparadegroundhousesthequirkyCorrectionalServicesMuseum(www.csd.gov.hk;Tue–Sun10am–5pm;free).ItsninegallerieschartthehistoryofHongKong’spenalsystem,withcreepyexhibitslikeamockgallowsandfakecells.ItwasalsoinStanleyPrisonandatnearbyStStephen’sCollegethattheJapaneseinterned2,800non-

Chinesecivilianmen,womenandchildren.TotherightoftheprisonistheStanleyMilitaryCemetery,where

tombstonescommemorateearlycolonialmilitaryfamilies,aswellasthosewhodiedduringWorldWarIIattheBattleofHongKongoratStanleyInternmentCamp.NearthecemeteryisStStephen’sBeach,withawatersportscentrethathiresoutsailingdinghies,windsurfingboardsandkayaksifyoucanproducetheappropriatecertificate.

BeyondStanleyFromStanleyyoucanreachtwocountryparkswithaccesstomoreremotebeaches,ortakeonastageortwooftheWilson,HongKongorTaiTamtrailsandhiketosomeoftheleastvisitedspotsontheisland.

ToreachTaiTamCountryPark,headnorthalongTaiTamRoadtowardstheTaiTamReservoirs7[map],whichfeatureVictorianaqueductsanddams.Madeupoffourreservoirs,TaiTamcanonlymeetHongKong’sneedsforthreedays(mostofHongKong’swatersupplyispipedinfromChina).Theparkcoversfullyone-fifthofHongKongIsland,andthereservoirsareapopularpicnicspot.Thewell-markedwalkupalongtheHongKongTrailtothenorthleadspastprettywoodlandandwaterfalls;duringtheweekit’smostlikelytobedeserted.Atthetop,atrailaroundWongNaiChungGaptracestheeventsoftheBattleofHongKongin1941.

BigWaveBayandShekOFollowingTaiTamRoad,thenShekORoad,aroundTaiTamBaywilltakeyoutotheeastcoastofHongKongIsland,whereBigWaveBay’sconsistentsurfandeasilyaccessiblelocationisabigdrawfortheHongKongsurfingcommunity.BoardsandsuitscanberentedfromtheSurf360shop,justoffthebeach.

Justtothesouth,ShekO8[map]isapleasantvillagewhosemarketplacehasacollectionofshopssellingbeachparaphernalia.Therearealsosomelaid-backrestaurantswellknownforbothChineseandThaicuisine.StrollouttoShekOHeadland,facingtheislandsofTaiTauChauandNgFanChau,andtotherightisthemosteasterlypointoftheisland,CapeD’Aguilar.

Alternatively,takeitallinbywalkingalongtheDragon’sBackfromthetrailmarkeraboveToTeiWantoShekO(stage8oftheHongKongTrail),whichtakeshikersalongridgesaroundthesepeaksfortwoorthreehoursbefore

droppingdowntoBigWaveBay.

Kowloon

AlwaysregardedasplayingsecondfiddletoHongKongIsland,thedistrictsofTsimShaTsui,YauMaTeiandMongKokinKowloonnevertheless

definethechaosandbustleoftheSAR.

MainAttractionsViewsfromwaterfrontpromenade

HongKongSpaceMuseumHongKongMuseumofArt

NathanRoadKowloonPark

HongKongScienceMuseumHongKongMuseumofHistoryTempleStreetNightMarket

Namedaftertheninedragons(gaulung)oflegendthatliveinthehillsthatmarkitsnorthernedge,theKowloonpeninsulaisoneoftheworld’smostcrowdedareas,withmorethan2.2millionpeoplesqueezedintoits47sqkm(18sqmiles).

AtthesouthernendisTsimShaTsui(pronounced“chimsachoi”),anirrepressibleshoppingdistrictstuddedwithseveralimportantculturalcentres.FurthernortharethemoretraditionalareasofYauMaTeiandMongKok,where,despitetheadditionofafewnewmallsandhighrises,lifeisstillverymuchlivedonthestreetsandinthemanystreetmarkets.

Kowloonisoneoftheworld’smostcrowdedareas.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Kowloonisquitedifferentfromtheglitteringislandacrosstheharbour–it’salittlerougherroundtheedges,andonthegolaterintothenight.AwayfromthemaintouristareasalongandbesideNathanRoad,wherethebroadestmixofnationalitiesandculturescanbeseenanytimeofthedayornight,Kowloonis“moreChinese”,orperhapssomemightsay,moreHongKong.

Byday,savefortheviewsfromthewaterfrontandafewidiosyncraticsights,itisnotanespeciallyattractiveplace.Alackofplanningcohesionovertheyearshasledtoasometimesbizarremishmashofdesignsandstyles,fromtheritzytotheramshackle.However,Kowloonsparklesintheneonglowofnighttime.Thephysicalchargethatrunsthroughcountlesssignsandlight-fittingsisreflectedintheelectricatmosphereatstreetlevel.

NathanRoad,Kowloon’smainthoroughfare.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Yetthingsarechanging,thetransformationkickstartedinpartbytheclosureofKaiTakAirportin1998,afterwhichbuildingswereallowedtosoarbeyondtheformerflightpathlimits.PropertydevelopersdashedintobegincreatinganewskylineforHongKongIslandtolookat,andlookupto.

ThesedaysKowloonhasthetallestbuildinginHongKong,andthefourthtallestintheworld:the484-metre(1,588-ft)InternationalCommerceCentre(ICC).LocatedontopoftheKowloonMTRstationandsurroundedbyluxuryhighriseapartmenttowers,the118-storeyICChasaviewingplatformonthe100thfloorandoneofthehighesthotelsintheworld,theRitzCarltonHongKong,perchedabove(formoreinformation,clickhere).

ThevenerableClockTower.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AroundtheStarFerryPierTheobviousplacetostartexploringTsimShaTsuiisattheStarFerryPier1,[map]wheretheferrieslandfromCentralandWanChai.ThefunctionalconcourseisthelocationofHongKong’smostaccessibletouristinformationoffice(runbytheHKTBandopendaily8am–8pm),ontheimmediaterightofthedisembarkationpoint.

TheHongKongCulturalCentre.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

JusteastoftheStarFerryTerminalisTsimShaTsui’smostobviouslandmark,theformerKowloon–CantonRailwayClockTower.Datingfrom1921,thetoweristhefinalvestigeofthehistoricKowloon–CantonRailway(KCR)Station,oncetheAsianterminusofasystemthatranalltheway(withafewchangesenroute)backtoEurope.Inthemid-1970sitwasreplacedbyanewstationtotheeast,atHungHom.

ViewofKowloonfromtheHongKongConventionandExhibitionCentre.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ImmediatelybehindthetoweristheunmistakableformoftheHongKongCulturalCentre2[map],aminimaliststructurewithasweepingconcaveroofcoveredinuglytiles.Whenitwasbuiltin1984,peoplewerebaffledbyitsabsenceofwindows–aninexplicabledecisiontoblockoutoneoftheworld’smostdramaticviews.Nonetheless,thelackofviewfocusesattentiononwhat’sgoingoninside,andtheplaceisextensivelyused.ItisthehomeoftheHongKongPhilharmonicOrchestraandstageslocalandinternationalopera,classicalmusic,theatreanddancethroughouttheyear.Itisalsoareliablesourceofinformationaboutartsandculturaleventsthroughoutthecity.

TheAvenueofStars.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AlongthepromenadeFromtheStarFerryPiereastwardalongtheharbour,awaterfrontpromenadeextendspasttheCulturalCentreandInterContinentalHoteltowardsTsimShaTsuiEastandHungHomBay,astretchof

reclaimedlandpackedwithhotels,officesandshops.Thisprovidesagreatvantagepointforviewingthenorthshore

ofHongKongIsland,oneofthemostspectacularcityscapesintheworld.At8pmeachnight,anywhere

alongthepromenadeisgoodforwatchingtheSymphonyofLights,theworld’slargestsoundandlightshowthat

illuminatestheglitteringskylinemorethanever.BeyondtheCulturalCentrethepromenadeskirtstheInterContinentalHotel

andtheNewWorldCentreandbecomestheAvenueofStars3[map]–decoratedwithtributestothefamousandlesssoofHongKongandChinesecinema,withHollywood-stylestarssetinthepavement.Someofthemonikers–FungBoBo,IvyLingPo,TsoTatWah–willbefamiliaronlytofilmbuffs,butmanyothercharactersarehonouredhere,includingSanFrancisco-bornBruceLee,JohnWoofromGuangzhou,BeijingnativeJetLiandMalaysianMichelleYeoh,thefirstAsianBondgirl.

HongKongSpaceMuseum4[map]Address:10SalisburyRoad;www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Space

Tel:27210226OpeningHrs:Mon,Wed–Fri1–9pm,Sat–Sun&publicholidays10am–9pm

EntranceFee:charge,butfreeonWedTransport:MTRTsimShaTsui

JustbehindtheCulturalCentre,theigloo-likeHongKongSpaceMuseumisafavouritewithkids.Itsunmissableplanetariumdomescreensastronomicalandnatural-historydocumentaries,someinOMNIMAXSensaroundformat.Itsdisplaysincludeinteractivescale-modelrocketsandgenuineastronautsuits.

HongKongMuseumofArt5[map]Address:10SalisburyRoad;hk.art.museum

Tel:27210116OpeningHrs:Mon–Wed,Fri10am–6pm,Sat–Sun10am–7pm

Entrancefee:charge,butfreeonWedTransport:MTRTsimShaTsui

HongKong’slargestpublicartgalleryiscurrentlyundergoingathorough,modernisingrenovationandisscheduledtoreopenin2019.Itisthemainvenueformajorvisitingartexhibitions.TheMuseumofArtalsodisplaystraditionalandcontemporarycalligraphyandpainting,alongwithhistoricphotographs,printsandartefactsofHongKong,MacauandGuangzhou.OthergalleriesexhibitChineseantiquitiesandmodernChineseart.

SalisburyRoadAcrosstheroadfromthisswatheofunattractivearchitecture,variousstretchesofSalisburyRoadhavebeenunderrenovationsincethe1990s,andaremosteasilyaccessedbysubwayviatheundergroundSogodepartmentstore.

AcrosstheroadfromtheCulturalCentreisapetite19th-centurybuildingthatfunctionedastheMarinePoliceHeadquarters6[map]until1996.Inaplanthatsqueakedthroughbeforethegovernmentbegantogetseriousaboutheritageconservation,it’sbeenrestoredandreopenedasa10-suiteboutiquehotel(HullettHouse),whichhasaseriesofbarsandrestaurantscraftedfromrestoredstablesandholdingcells.Theadjacentarea,oncehometoaloftypromontorywithsweepingseaviews,hasbeenre-landscapedandconvertedintoanewfaux-Victorianmallcalled1881Heritage.Typhoonsignalswereoncehoistedfromalighthousehere.

OntherightsideoftheYMCAisthemagnificentPeninsulaHotel7[map],whichcelebratedits90thbirthdayin2018.

ThePen

Backintheearly1920s,thenewlyformedHongKongandShanghaiHotelsCompanycommissionedarchitectstodesign“thefinesthoteleastofSuez”.ThePeninsula,asthepropertywasnamed,openedin1928andalmostinstantlymovedHongKong’ssocialcentreofgravityseveralhundredmetres/ydsnorth.Inthoseearlydaysoflong-haultravel,guestsarrivedattheKowloonCantonRailwayterminusonTsimShaTsuipromenadeafterafirst-classtrainjourneyfromEuropeviaMoscow,BeijingandShanghai,ordisembarkedfromluxurylinersmooredonwhatisnowCantonRoad.EarlyguestsincludedGeorgeBernardShaw,NoëlCowardandphilanthropistCorneliusVanderbiltJr.

Traditionshavebeenassiduouslymaintained,andonecanstillenjoyanafternoonteainthesumptuousgiltcornicedlobby,accompaniedbyastringquartetonthebalcony.Oneofthefewconcessionstoprogresshasbeentheadditionofanewtowerblockin1994,whichsoarsupwardsfromtheoriginalU-shapedbuildingandistoppedoffwithatwinhelipad.ThePen’sfleetofRollsRoycelimousines,itsswishrestaurants,luxuriousspaandsophisticatedbars,ensurethatitremainstheconsummateHongKonghotel.

AshortdistanceeastisSignalHillGarden,whichhousestheBlackheadSignalTower8[map](daily9–11am,4–6pm;free).Thetowerwasbuiltin1907tohousethetimeballbywhichshipsintheharbouradjustedtheirchronometers.

MaritimegatewayImmediatelynorthoftheStarFerryPierisStarHouse9[map],wherecheongsams,porcelain,andalmosteverykindofChinesehandicraft,areonsaleattheChineseArtsandCraftsstore.

AdjoiningStarHouseonCantonRoadisthemammothHarbourCitycomplex)[map],encompassingOceanTerminal,OceanCentreandGatewayArcade.Insidethereareover700shopsandboutiques,plusthreeMarcoPolohotelsanddozensofrestaurants.Morethan20luxurycruiselinesincludeHongKongasaportofcallandregularlymooratthetwoberthshere,althoughshipsaslargeastheQueenMaryIIareforcedtomooratthedeeper,butsemi-industrial,KwaiChungContainerTerminalratherthandisgorgingtheirpassengersdirectlyintothemallsandotherentertainmentsofdowntownTsimShaTsui.

TheHarbourCitycomplex.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Runningparallelwithtoday’scruiseshipandferryterminalsisCantonRoad,whichmarkedthewaterfrontuntilthe1950s.Todayitisthe“frontdoor”ofHarbourCityandhometoanincreasingnumberofdesigner-brandmegastores.ItalsobordersthewesternedgeofKowloonPark.

HaiphongRoad,packedwitheveningshoppers.

Dreamstime

TheheartofTsimShaTsuiThe“GoldenMile”wasanicknamegiventoNathanRoad![map]inthe1960safterithadbeentransformedfromasleepy,tree-linedresidentialboulevardintoagaudy,neon-litstreetlinedwithelectronicsshops,tailors,boutiquesandothershopstargetingtouristsmorethanlocals.Shopshavechanged,signshavemultiplied,butNathanRoadstillremainsthecoreoftheTsimShaTsuishoppingandentertainmentdistrict.Thishasnowspreadoutalongthevariouscrossstreets,whererundownmansionblockspackedwithshabbyguesthousesandtradingofficesareoddlywedgedbetweentheshops,luxuryhotelsandtheoccasionalskyscraper.

Where

NathanRoadisthecentraltrunkofKowloonrunningnorthfromTsimShaTsuithroughYauMaTeitoMongKok’sBoundaryStreet,whichmarksthelinedrawnin1856whenthelandtothesouthwascededtotheBritish“inperpetuity”.In1898thedistrictsimmediatelysurroundingcolonialKowloonwere,alongwiththeNewTerritories,leasedtotheBritishuntil1997.

FromthewestsideofNathanRoad,PekingandHaiphongroadsconnectwithincreasinglyupmarketCantonRoad.Totheeastthere’splentyofshoppingalongCarnarvon,CameronandGranvilleroads:hereyouwillfindfactoryoutlets,inexpensiveaccessoryshops,fashionboutiquesandnumerousbargains.

NathanRoaditselfnowboaststheveryupmarketLaneCrawforddepartmentstore,aswellaslargermid-pricedfashionshops,cut-pricecosmeticsstoresandplentyofjewelleryandelectronicshops,where“buyerbeware”istheorderoftheday.Therearealsothelesssalubriouslookingarcadesthatoverflowwithafascinatingmixofboothsandshops,includingthegroundfloorofChungkingMansions.

ChungkingMansions

Builtin1961inaprimeNathanRoadlocation,ChungkingMansions(36–44NathanRoad)isoneofHongKong’smostunlikely–andugliest–touristdraws.Thishulkingtenementprovidessheltertofrugalbackpackersandnewlyarrivedmigrantsinscoresofcleanbutludicrouslycrampedguesthouses,accessedbyunreliableliftsandeeriestairwells.AmongthemoneychangersandwholesalersonthegroundfloorarevariousstallswhereyoucanbuyanythingfromBollywoodDVDs,sarisorsamosastoelectronicsandalarmclocks.HeaduptothemezzaninefloorandtuckintosomeNepalisnackfoodandtakeinthequintessentialKowloonscene.FortheChinesemoviefanit’sachancetoexperiencethetwilightworldportrayedinWongKarWai’sbrilliantChungkingExpress.

KowloonPark@[map]Address:HaiphongRoad

OpeningHrs:5am–midnightEntrancefee:free

Transport:MTRTsimShaTsui

TheshadyoldbanyantreesofKowloonParkdatebacktowhentheBritishArmy’sWhitfieldBarrackswereestablishedhereinthe1890s.The13.5-hectare(34-acre)parkincludesaChinesegardenwithlotusponds,children’splayground,mazeandanaviarypark(accessoftenrestrictedduetoavianfluconcerns).ASculptureWalkdisplaysworkbylocalartistsandisthevenueforkungfudemonstrationseverySundayafternoon(2.30–4.30pm).Atthenorthernendthere’salargesportscomplexandindoorandoutdoorswimmingpool(daily6.30am–noon,1–5pmand6–10pm).TwoblocksofformerWhitfieldBarracks,whichwerebuiltin1910tohouseBritishandIndiantroops,havebeencleverlyrestoredtocreatetheHongKongHeritageDiscoveryCentre(www.amo.gov.hk;Mon–Wed,Fri10am–6pm,Sun10am–7pm).Gallerieshost

temporaryexhibitionsandapermanentdisplaythatattemptstodefineHongKong’sculturalheritage.

EastoftheparkAtthesoutheasterncornerofthepark,onNathanRoad,istheKowloonMosque£[map],withitsfourminaretsandlarge,whitemarbledomegracefullystandingoutfromtheclutterofshopsandrestaurantsopposite.Builtin1984,itservesHongKong’s300,000Muslimresidents,ofwhomabout50,000areChinese.Theoriginalmosquebuilding,builtin1894,servedtheBritishArmy’sMuslimIndiantroops.

Acrosstheroadarethreecolonialbuildings,eachover100yearsold,frontedbyequallygraciousbanyantrees.Atno.138theVictorianGothic-styleStAndrew’sChurch(1904)istheoldestAnglicanchurchinKowloon.Nextdoor,setbackfromtheroadistheformerKowloonBritishSchool,whichopenedin1902andnowhousestheAntiquitiesandMonumentsOffice(notopentothepublic).UpthehillbehindNathanRoad,theHongKongObservatoryhasbeenmonitoringtheweatherheresince1883.

AlongsidetheentrancetoObservatoryRoadistherefreshinglymid-marketMiramarShoppingCentre,whilejustsoutharethetrendyrestaurantandentertainmentareasofKnutsfordSteps,KnutsfordTerraceandKimberleyRoad$[map].Thisareaalsohasaremarkablenumberofbridalshops,whereyoungcouplesflocktohireorbuyallmannerofbridalwareandtositforpre-weddingphotographsofthehappycoupleinfullweddinggearthatwillbeondisplayattheirweddingcelebration.

TempleStreetNightMarketgetsintofullswingintheearlyevening.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ModyRoadLinkingNathanRoadtoChathamRoadisModyRoad%[map]which,togetherwithneighbouringHanoiRoad,isgoingfromgrubbytogroovyatalivelypace.Themakeoverofthisslightlyrundownareawaskickstartedin2007bythecompletionofK11,a64-floorskyscraper.Thetowerhasbroughtupmarketofficespace,whatitclaimsisHongKong’sfirst“artmall”,andtheHyattRegencyTsimShaTsui.

HaiphongRoadmarksthesouthernlimitofKowloonPark.AlexHavret/ApaPublications

ThegroundfloorarcadeatChungkingMansionsisascloseasHongKonggetstoa“LittleIndia”.

AndreaPistolesi

TsimShaTsuiEastChathamRoadrunsparalleltoNathanRoadandishometotwogoodmuseumsandHongKong’slargestuniversity.

HongKongScienceMuseum^[map]Address:2ScienceMuseumRoad;hk.science.museumTel:27323232

OpeningHrs:Mon–Wed,Fri10am–7pm,Sat–Sun&publicholidays10am–9pmEntranceFee:charge,butfreeonWedTransport:MTRTsimShaTsuiEast

TheScienceMuseumhasover500exhibitsonpermanentdisplayin18galleriescoveringtopicsfromtelecommunicationstofoodscience.Highlightsincludetheflightsimulatoranda22-metre(72ft)twin-towerenergymachine,whichisthelargestofitskindintheworld.Themajorityofexhibitsareinteractiveandaimedatmakingthewiderangeoftechnologyandsciencetopicsaccessibleforitsprimaryaudienceofschoolstudentsandyoungchildren.

Ladies’MarketinMongKokisoneofthemostpopularmarketsinHongKong.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

HongKongMuseumofHistory&[map]Address:100ChathamRoadSouth;hk.history.museum

Tel:27249042OpeningHrs:Mon,Wed–Fri10am–6pm,Sat–Sun&publicholidays10am–7pm

Entrancefee:chargebutfreeonWedTransport:MTRTsimShaTsuiEast

JustoppositetheScienceMuseum,theHongKongMuseumofHistory

documentsthestoryofHongKongfromneolithictimesrightuptotheendofcolonialrule.TheHongKongStoryisthecoreexhibition,takingindevelopmentsfromtheDevonianperiod400millionyearsagotothe1997handover,spreadingovertwofloorsandacrosseightgalleries.Mostexhibitsfocusonmorerecenthistory,withimaginativemockupsoftraditionalteahousesandvariousstreetscenes.Thereare53interactivedisplaysandscoresoffascinatingoldphotographs.

YauMaTeiJadeMarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AcrossChathamRoad,theRosaryChurch*[map]wascompletedin1905tomeettheneedsofthegrowingCatholiccommunity,asaresultofadonationfromaPortugueseexpatriate,DrAnthonyGomes.

FromtheTsimShaTsuiEastareaitiseasytoreturntothebrightlightsandshopsofTsimShaTsui.AnetworkofundergroundwalkwayslinksthenewTsimShaTsuiEaststationwithvariouspointsaroundTsimShaTsuiandtheMTR.

TropicalfishonsaleattheGoldfishMarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

HungHomFurthereastbeyondtheHistoryMuseumisHungHomRailwayStation([map],builtin1975toreplacetheoldKowloonstation(bytheTsimShaTsuiClockTower)astheterminusfortrainsfromChina.TherearedepartureseverytwoorthreedaystoBeijingandShanghai,andseveraldailytoGuangzhou.Tenminutes’walkawayisHungHomFerryPier,withservicestoCentral,WanChaiandNorthPoint.

Theunusual-lookinginvertedpyramidsituatedontheharboursideofthestationisthe12,000-seatHongKongColiseum,[map],oneoftheSAR’slargestmusicvenues.Theindoorstadiumhostssell-outshowsbyCantopopidolsandinternationalstars.

YauMaTeiJordanMTRstationatthenortheastcornerofKowloonParkmarksthetransitionfromTsimShaTsuitothemoretraditionalYauMaTei.

AtthejunctionofJordanandCantonroadsthereareseveraljadeandivoryshopssellingmahjongsets.ShanghaiStreetstillhasshopssellingredChineseweddingdresses,embroideredpillowcasesandotheritemsforaChinesebride’strousseau,aswellasfascinatingshopsmakingpotsandpanstoorder.

NingPoStreetandReclamationStreetarewellknownfortheirshopssellingpapermodelsofhouses,carsandnotesfrom“HellBank”thatareburntatfunerals,whichassurethatthedeceasedwillbewell-offintheafterlife.AtthejunctionofKansuandBatterystreetstheJadeMarket⁄[map](daily11am–6pm)ispackedwithstalls.Dealersofferjadeineverysculptableform,fromlargeblocksoftherawmaterialtotiny,ornatelycarvedchips(formoreinformation,clickhere).

ShopperscansitandeatatoneofthemanybasicdinersalongtheedgesofTempleStreetNightMarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TempleStreetNightMarketShanghaiStreetcontinuesnorthtoPublicSquareStreet,whereyou’llfindanareaoncefamousforitstemples,butnowrenownedfortheTempleStreetNightMarket¤[map](www.temple-street-night-market.hk;daily4pm–11pm).Runningparallelto

ShanghaiStreet,stallsstartsettingupinthelateafternoon,butthemarketcomestolifeafterdusk.Best

knownforitsfakedesignergoods,thisistheperfectplacetohuntdownthattackymemento,withstallsselling

souvenirT-shirts,lighters,watches,bags,jeans,oldcoins,crafts,smallelectricalgadgets,mobilephonesandtoys.

It’salsogoodforbargainpriceclothes.Palmistsandphysiognomistsvietorevealyourdestiny,andtherearenumerousdaipaidongs–basicHongKong-styledinersservinguptastyseafoodandhotpotstoeatatfunctionalfold-uptablesandstoolsperchedontheedgesofthe

street.OneofthetemplesthatgavethemarketitsnameistheTinHauTemple‹

[map](complexopendaily7am–5.30pm)onPublicSquareStreet,whichwasoriginallybuiltclosertotheharbour,andlocalsstillvisititregularlytoworshipTinHau,theprotectoroffisherfolk,whoseimageisdrapedinintricatelyembroideredscarletrobes.Totherightofthealtarare60identicaldeitiesthatrepresenteveryyearofthe60-yearlunarcalendar.Worshippersplace“HellBank”notesunderthegoddedicatedtotheyearsoftheirbirth.

HongKong’sonlyartscinema,BroadwayCinematheque,istwoblocksalongfromTempleStreet,pastReclamationStreet,oppositetheelegant1920s-builtformerYauMaTeiPoliceStationonPublicSquareStreet.Aswellasfourscreensshowingabroadmixoffilms,thereisthelaidbackKubrickBookshopCafétorelaxinandmulloveryourmovieoptions.

WestKowloonreclamationFurtherwestliesa40-hectare(100-acre)parcelofreclaimedlandwhichisbeingdevelopedtocreatethelong-awaitedWestKowloonCulturalDistrict(WKCD).Morethantwodecadesinthemaking,thecomplexhasbeenheldupbyseveralpublicconsultationsandcontroversies,althoughconstructionisfinallyunderway,andpartsofthedevelopmentarealreadyopentothepublic.Thespacewillfeaturecommercialdevelopmentaswellasculturalfacilities(sleekartcentresandgleamingmuseums),greenspace,retail,diningandnightlightoptions.MuseumswillincludetheM+Museumforvisualculture;theM+Pavilion,currentlyopentothepublicandholdingexhibitionsuntiltheM+Museumiscompleted;theXiquCentre,dedicatedtotheheritageofXiqu;theHongKongPalaceMuseum,dedicatedtobronzeandjadeitems,paintings,ceramicsandlifeintheImperialCourt;andtheLyricTheatreComplex,staginginternationaldanceandtheatreperformances.Forupdatesonconstruction,visitwww.westkowloon.hk.

Atthetimeofwriting,theM+Pavilion,NurseryParkandwaterfrontpromenadewerealreadyopentovisitors.Spectacularviewsoftheharbourand

theHongKongskylinecanbehadfromthepromenade.Nearby,thevery-muchcompletedUnionSquaredevelopmentprovidesastarkcontrast,andincludesHongKong’stallestresidentialblockat75storeys,theElementsshoppingmallandthecity’stallestbuilding–theInternationalCommerceCentre(ICC;formoreinformation,clickhere)–whichtowersabovetheKowloonMTRstationat484metres(1,588ft).TheSky100(www.sky100.com.hk)observationdeckonthe100thfloorgivesexceptional360-degreeviewsofthecitywhilethefloorsabovearehometotheseriously-swishRitzCarltonHongKong.

TheLanghamPlaceMallhasraisedthetoneinMongKok,anareathatoncehadanunsavouryreputation.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

MongKokMongKok(properlyWongKokinCantonese:along-deadsignwritergothislettersmixedup)wasformanyyearsassociatedwithsleaze.Theareagotashockin2004,whenLanghamPlace,aglitzycombinedofficeblock,shoppingmallandfive-starhotel,openednexttotheMTRstationrightintheheartofwhatusedtobetheseediestpartoftown.Theshoddybarsandone-roombordelloscontinuetooperateinnearbysidestreets,butthewritingisonthewall.LanghamPlace–whosedeveloperspentadozenyearsbuyingupthetenementsfromdifferentowners–isthefuture,soaring255metres(840ft)totheheavens.

YuenPoStreetBirdMarket.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AglimpseofanolderMongKokcanbeseenatLuiSengChun,119LaiChiKokRoad.Atypicalmid-20thcenturytonglau(shophouse),itsgroundfloor

wasoccupiedbyabonesettingmedicineshop,whileanextendedfamilylivedupstairs.

Manywell-knownMongKokstreets,likeFaYuenStreet–knownlocallyas“SneakerStreet”becauseofthepreponderanceofsportsshops–havebeenearmarkedforredevelopmentbythegovernment’sUrbanRenewalAuthority.However,residentsandtradershavetendedtoputupstiffresistancetotheintermittentplansthatcomealongandmostretainawonderfullyungentrifiedcommercialair.

OntheeastsideofNathanRoad,onTungChoiStreet,theso-calledLadies’Market›[map](www.ladies-market.hk;dailymidday–11.30pm)sellseverythingfromfakedesigneraccessoriesandclothingtocheapcosmeticsandtoys.Itisalsoapopularareaforlate-nightshoppinganddining.AtthenorthernendofTungChoiStreet,GoldfishMarketisagroupofshopsspecialisingintropicalfishandunusualgoldfish.

Tenminutes’walktothenorth,approachingBoundaryStreet,thecolourfulFlowerMarketfi[map](www.flower-market.hk;8am–dusk)hasafascinatingselectionofcutflowers,houseplantsandfengshuiflora.NearbyisthephotogenicYuenPoStreetBirdMarket(daily7am–8pm)precinct,accessiblethroughatraditionalgatewayandcontainingastringofmelodioussongbirdstalls.

China’sfavouritestone

JadewasformerlythepreserveofChina’selite.BeliefinitspowerfulessenceisnearlyasoldasChinesecivilisationitself,anditsprominenceinChineseartandliteratureatteststoitslongstandingvalue.Jadewasprizedfortheaestheticbeautyofthestone,theskillneededtocarveitandthemagicalpropertiesitwasbelievedtopossess.

Mostjewellerywasmadefromjade,favouredovergemsandpreciousmetals,andsomepeopleheldthatthestoneglowedwiththevitalityoftheownerorbecametarnishedifthewearerfellill.TheChinesehavelongbelievedthatwearingjadeornamentsimpartsgoodhealth,goodluckandprotectionfromevilspirits.

Therearetwotypesofjade:jadeiteandnephrite.Earlyjadeobjectswerecarvedfromnephrite,asofterformofthestonethatcanbeworkedwithprimitivetools.

Thebest-knownsinglepieceofjadeisJadeMountainoftheGreatYuTamingtheFlood.Accordingtorecords,theuncutstonewasdiscoveredinXinjiangprovinceandweighedmorethan5tonnes,requiringmorethanthreeyearstotransporttoBeijingandsixyearsforateamofartisanstocarve.

Insight:Shopping

Trading,buyingandselling,shopping–it’swhyHongKongwasfoundedandwhatitstilldoes

best.

HongKongpridesitselfonbeingashopper’sparadise,andmostlocalsareinsatiableshoppers.Ifyoulovetoshop,youwillloveHongKong.Whetherit’sinamall–HongKonghassomeofthelargestandmostglamorousintheworld,packedwithdesignernames–ordownonstreetlevelinoneofthelivelystreetmarketsordusty“antique”stores,thereisnoshortageoffinds.

Thesedays,HongKongmaynotbethebargainbasementitoncewas,butthereisnosales,value-added-orluxurytax,whichgivesittheedgeoversomeotherAsiandestinations.Bestofall,HongKong’scompactsizemeansthatit’seasytocoveralotofshoppinggroundinaremarkablyshorttime.

UpperLascarRow,morecommonlyknownasCatStreet,isfilledwithstallssellingrealandfakeantiques,bric-a-bracandmemorabilia.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

SecureshoppingShoppinginHongKongcansometimesbeafraughtbusinessfortheamateur.ConsumerscantrustshopsshowingaQualityTourismServices(QTS)sign,identifiablebythelogoofaredjunkwiththeChinesecharacterforqualitywritteninblackinside,whichwillprovidegenuineproducts,displaypricesclearly,provideproductinformationandoffergoodcustomerservice.

Whenbuyingelectricalgoods,considerwhetheryouneedaninternationalguaranteeandnotjustalocalHongKongversion.Goodsthatseemsuspiciouslycheapmayonlybeguaranteedforthelocalarea,andrepairsorreplacementswillhavetobecarriedoutinHongKong.

Beware“bait-and-switch”tactics,whereretailersshowcaseaproductatanambiguousprice,acceptadepositandthenclaimtheitemisoutofstockbeforepressuringthebuyertoacceptaninferiorproduct.Finally,alwaysaskforaproperreceiptwhichclearlystatespurchasedetails,andavoidstreettouts.

Theproblemofretailerscheatingtouristsisnolongerrife,butifyoudohaveaproblemyoushouldcontacttheHKTBortheConsumerCouncil(www.consumer.org.hk/ws_en;tel:29292222).

HongKong’smarketsThere’splentyoffuntobehadatHongKong’sstreetmarkets.Ladies’MarketandTempleStreetNightMarketinKowloonareoverflowingwithamixoftackysouvenirs,cheapclothesandtheodd“realfind”,withauniqueurbanKowloonbackdrop.BydaytheFlowerMarketnearPrinceEdwardMTRispackedwithunusualflowersandplants.Tosee,andsmell,anauthenticHongKongwetmarket,visittheSheungWanMunicipalServicesBuilding,orGrahamStreetinCentral.AlsoinCentral,TheLanessellsouvenirs,sportswear,pashminas,linen,knitwearandchinoiserie.StanleyMarketsellssimilargoodsplusfactoryover-runs,butitspopularityisduetothenumberofstalls,andthechancetorelaxinaseasidecafé-bartorechargeyourbatteries.

AstallatLadies’MarketonTungChoiStreet.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ShoppinginShenzhenShenzhenappealstobargainhunters,butbewarnedthatanythingoverlycheapislikelytobeknock-offtat,andgenuinebrandgoodswilllikelycostmorethantheydobackhome.Somebeautifulnewmallshavesprungupoverthelastdecadeorso,thoughmanyHongKongshoppersstillseenoneedtoventurebeyondLoWuCommercialCity,rightontheborder.Thisvastshoppingarcadesellscheapclothesandshoes,factoryover-runs,outrageousfake-designergoods,pens,cufflinks,toysandallmannerofhomefurnishings,electronics,andaphenomenalnumberofhandbags,walletsandpurses.

Thereareover2,000boothsspreadoverfivefloors.Clothescanbetailor-made,ortheywillcopyafavouritegarmentforafractionofthepriceinEuropeorNorthAmerica.Thewholeofthefifthfloorisdevotedtoafabricmarketsurroundedbytailors.Jewelleryrulesonthesecondfloor,withplentyofpearls,semi-preciousstonesandcostumejewellery.Withinflationandtherisingvalueoftherenminbi,pricesareconsiderablylesscheapthantheywereafewyearsback,buttherearestillbargainstobehad.

NewKowloon

InadditiontobeinghometoHongKong’smostfamoustempleandtheregion’slargestBuddhistnunnery,theseurbandistrictsattheupperendofKowloonpeninsulameritexplorationforthose

interestedinthegrittiersideoftheSAR.

MainAttractionsKowloonWalledCityParkWongTaiSinTemple

ChiLinNunneryLeiChengUkTomb

KowloonproperendsatBoundaryStreetinMongKok,whichbetween1860and1898definedthefrontierbetweenHongKongandChina.AlthoughofficiallypartoftheNewTerritories,thedistrictsimmediatelynorthofthisstreetaremorecommonlyknownasNewKowloon.ThedenselypopulatedneighbourhoodsofKwunTong,KowloonCity,WongTaiSinandShamShuiPo,wedgedupagainstthemountainstothenorth,areoccupiedbyhousingestates,shoppingmallsanddecayingfactoriesandwarehouses–thiswasthelocationofmostofHongKong’slightindustryuntilitshiftedoverthebordertoChinainthe1980s.Manyoftheolderbuildingsarebeingtorndownandreplacedwithmoreupmarketresidentialtowersandmegamalls.

KowloonWalledCityPark,wheretheKowloonWalledCityoncestood.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

KowloonCityKowloonCity1[map]isbestseenonfoot,startingatLokFuMTRStation.WalkupWangTauHomEastRoadasfarasJunctionRoad,thenturnleftandcontinuewest.AlongJunctionRoad,theChineseChristianCemeteryontheleftisastarkreminderofthelackofspaceinHongKong,withgravesstackeduplikesardinesonconcreteterraces.

NextdoortothecemeteryisthetinyHauWongTemple,withtraditionalrooftilesandincensespiralshangingfromtherafters.Builtin1730,thetempleisdedicatedtoYangLiangJie,aloyalandcourageousgeneraloftheexiledSongdynasty’sboy-emperorPing.Thegeneral’sbirthdayiscelebratedonthe16thdayofthesixthmonthofthelunarcalendar.Thetemple-keeperactsasamediuminterpretingtheadviceofHauWongbymeansofkayfook–prayingforthegod’sblessing.

TheChiLinNunneryisthelargestBuddhistnunneryinEastAsia.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

RememberingtheWalledCityContinuepastthetemplefor10minutesuntilthejunctionwithCarpenterRoad,thenturnleftandheadpastKowloonCityPlazaonthelefttoreachKowloonWalledCityPark2[map](www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/parks/kwcp;daily6.30am–11pm;MTRLokFu).TheparkmarkstheareawherethenotoriousWalledCitystooduntilitwasfinallydemolishedin1992.

TheWalledCity

Inpre-colonialtimes,thesitethatwastobecomethenotoriousWalledCitywasoccupiedbyafortress.ItcontinuedtobeusedbytheChineseafter1841(partlytomonitorBritishactivities),andwhenBritainleasedtheNewTerritories(whichincludedthispartofKowloon)in1898,thesitewasexcluded.Atfirst,theQing-dynastyofficialsremained,butBritishtroopsweresoondispatched,andtheywereexpelled.

YetBritishlawwasneverfullyimplementedwithinthewalledcompound,anditsoondeterioratedintoasemi-lawlessenclavethatwaslefttoitsowndevices.AfterWorldWarII,illegallow-riseblocksbegantoappear,resultinginamulti-storeysquatterareawithunauthorisedelectricityandwatersupplies.Bythe1950s,thedankalleywayshadbecomeareal-lifevicecity–asqualidhavenfordrugaddicts,triadgangs,illegalimmigrantsandbrothels,aswellasunlicenseddoctorsanddentists.

Intrueimperialstyle,theBritishsimplyturnedablindeye,butthroughthe1970spressuremountedforthemtoact.Beijingvehementlyopposeddemolitionplans,regardingitasChineseterritory,buteventually35,000residentswereresettledinhousingestates,andtheentireblockwasrazedtotheground,aprocesscompletedin1992.

Openedin1995bythenGovernorChrisPatten,itisanattractivespaceinthemiddleofdowdyswathesofgreyurbandecline.ModelledontheJiangnangardenstyleoftheearlyQingdynasty,itfeaturesachessgardenaswellastheMountainViewPavilion,fromwhichLionRockloomslargetothenorth.ThesoutherngateoftheoldWalledCityhasbeenpreserved,alongwithtwooldcannons,whileaninformationcentrecontainsaphotographicexhibitiondetailingthepeculiarhistoryofthecity,itsdemiseandthesubsequentconstructionofthepark,aswellasdisplayingrelicsfoundwithinthewalls.

YoungwomanatWongTaiSinTemplewithabamboochimstick,usedforfortunetelling.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

WongTaiSinTemple3[map]Address:2ChukYuenVillage,WongTaiSin;www.siksikyuen.org.hk

Tel:23278141OpeningHrs:daily7am–5pm

Entrancefee:freeTransport:MTRWongTaiSin

ProbablytheliveliestandmostcolourfulplaceofworshipinHongKong,and

themostrewardingforoutsiderstovisit,isWongTaiSinTemple,whichsitsoppositetheeponymousMTRstation.

WongTaiSin,theDaoistgodofhealing,issaidtohavediscoveredthesecretoftransformingcinnabar(vermilion,aredmercuricsulphide)intoanelixirforimmortality.ApaintingofthegodwasbroughttoHongKongfromChinain1915,andwasfirstplacedinasmalltempleinWanChai,beforebeingmovedtoWongTaiSintobenefit,itwassaid,fromthefengshuibetweenformidableLionRockandthesea.SinceWongTaiSinisalsothegodofgoodfortune,theChinese,whoaretoocautioustorelysolelyonluck,flocktothetempletoaskhimforadviceonallmatters,includingsuchworldlyconcernsashorse-racingandstockmarkettips.Thesoundofrattlingchim–acontainerholdingdozensoffortunesticks–resoundsalldaylong.English-speakingfortune-tellerswillalsoprovidechapterandverseonthefutureusinganumberofothermethods.Theyareespeciallygood(fromaparentalpointofview)withchildren.

NianLinGarden.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TheoptimumtimestovisitareduringChineseNewYearoratWongTaiSin’sbirthdayonthe23rddayoftheeighthlunarmonth(betweenmid-Septemberandmid-October),whenthousandsofworshipperscrowdintothetempletolightincense,burnpapermoneyandrattlechimsticks.

AstreetinShamShuiPo.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ChiLinNunnery4[map]Address:5ChiLinDrive,DiamondHill;www.chilin.org

Tel:23541888OpeningHrs:daily9am–4.30pm,garden6.30am–7pmEntrancefee:free

Transport:MTRDiamondHill

OneMTRstoptotheeastofWongTaiSin,theChiLinNunneryisthelargestBuddhistnunneryinEastAsia.Nunshavelivedheresince1937,buttoday’sstructuredatesonlyfrom1998,havingbeenrebuiltinwoodwithouttheuseofasinglemetalnail.ThecomplexcomprisesanumberofBuddhisthallsandthetranquilgardenwithlotuspondsinfrontofthemainentrance.

TheHallofCelestialKingshousesastatueoftheMaitreyaBuddha(Milefo),theBuddhaoftheFutureandaheavenlybeingwhowilldescendtoEarthtosavehumanity.GuardiansoftheFourDirectionssurroundhim.Ontheleftisahallcommemoratingthegoddessofmercy,Guanyin,whositsinsideagrotto.OntherightisBaishiyajaGuru(MedicineMaster),accompaniedbytheSunandMoonBodhisattvas,Buddhistredemptiondeities.ThemostimpressivestatueisthegoldenSakyamuniBuddha,restingonalotusaltarintheMainHall.Acrosstheroad,theNianLinGarden(daily7am–9pm;free)isoneofthemostbeautiful

road,theNianLinGarden(daily7am–9pm;free)isoneofthemostbeautifulChinesegardensinHongKong.AlsofollowingTangaesthetics,thegardenfeaturesornamentalrocks,pavilions,waterfeaturesandbeautifullyshapedraretrees.ABuddhistvegetarianrestaurantishiddenbehindawaterfall.

StallsellingelectronicmerchandiseinShamShuiPo.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

BelowLionRockTherelentlessseaofhigh-risesstartsthinningtothenorthofNewKowloon,aroundKowloonTongMTRstation.Thisarea,wedgedbetweenKowloonCityandShamShuiPo,isthewealthiestinKowloonandisfullofluxurylow-risehousing,plusthehighestconcentrationofnurseries,schoolsanduniversitiesinthecity–amountingtoover200institutions.InatypicallyoddHongKongstyle,theareaisalsofamousforits“lovehotels”,discreetlysituatedbehindhighwalls,withgatesmannedbysecurityguards.Roomsat41CumberlandAvenue,BruceLee’sformerhome,werealsooncerentedbythehour.It’snolongerabrothel,butcallsforthepropertytobeconvertedintoapermanenttributetothekungfustarhavesofarbeenunheeded.

Forvisitorsthere’smoreofinterestatFestivalWalk,amassivemallaboveKowloonTongMTRstation,whichhasrestaurants,an11-screencinemaandanicerink.

ShamShuiPoShamShuiPo5[map]issituatedtothewestofKowloonTong,welloffthetouristtrailbutnonethelesseasilyaccessedbyMTR.TheareaisasgoodaplaceasanytogetanideaofthedevelopmentofHongKong’sarchitecture,fromgrimH-blockresettlementestateshastilyconstructedinthe1950stoclean,modernapartmentblockserectedinthe1980s.ShamShuiPoPoliceStation,atLaiChiKokRoadandYenChowStreet,isoneofKowloon’sremainingcolonialpre-warbuildings.DuringWorldWarII,thestationwasoccupiedandusedbytheJapanesetointerrogateprisonersofwar,andnowadaysresidentsreportaghostlyBritishsoldierwanderingaroundatnight.

Ifyou’reinsearchofelectronicgoods,ShamShuiPoishigh-techheaven–eventhoughmuchofitlookslikeafleamarket.ArcadesandstallssellingcomputersandrelatedmerchandisecanbefoundonYenChowStreetandApLiuStreet,wheretherearealsostreetstallssellingcheapgoods–fromoldstereosandvinylrecordstobrokencomputers,TVsandhouseholdappliances.Manyofthelatestgismosareparallelimports–suifoh–goodsimporteddirectlyfromothercountriesavailableatlowerprices,butwithoutguaranteesorinstructions.Rip-offsdooccur,andit’sadvisabletocheckitemsbeforebuying.TheDragonCentreonYenChowStreetisa10-storeymallwithicerinkontheeighthfloor,andachildren’sentertainmentarcade.

LeiChengUkTomb6[map]Address:41TonkinStreet,ShamShuiPo

Tel:23862863OpeningHrs:Mon–Wed,Fri–Sun10am–6pm

EntranceFee:freeTransport:no.2fromKowloonStarFerryPier,MTRCheungShaWanTheLei

ChengUkHousingEstateishometooneofHongKong’sarchaeologicaltreasures,discoveriesmadein1955byworkersexcavatingthehillside.The

tombhereisaHan-dynastyburialvaultdatingbacktobetweenAD100and200,whenKowloonwasundertheadministrativecontroloftheWuEmpire,whichtookcontrolofsouthernChinaintheperiodfollowingthecollapseoftheHanEmpire.Fourbarrel-vaultedchambersformacrossunderadomedvault,andthereareafewfuneraryexhibitsonshow.A3-Danimationhelpsyouto

thereareafewfuneraryexhibitsonshow.A3-Danimationhelpsyoutovisualisethetomb.

Insight:HongKong’sFestivals

ThecityisatitsmostcolourfulandexuberantduringthemanytraditionalChinesefestivals.

Despitethebrashmodernity,HongKongisacitywhosepopulationremainsclosetoitsroots,wheretempledeitiesandancestorsarehonouredwithequalfervour.ThesetraditionsareattheirmostvibrantandvisibleduringthecolourfulChinesefestivals.

LunarNewYear,inJanuaryorFebruary,isthemajorannualevent,atimeforbeingwithfamily,whenmostbusinessesshutdownforatleastaweek.Childrenandtheunmarriedreceivelaisee,luckyredpacketscontainingnewlymintedmoney.Employeesgetabonus.Shopsaredecoratedinfinestyle,andtherearenoisydragondancesandprocessions.Onthe15thdayoftheLunarNewYeartheSpringLanternFestivalinvolvesthehangingofcolourfultraditionallanternsinhomes,restaurantsandtemples.FishermendecoratetheirboatsinbrightcoloursandflocktoTinHautemplesaroundtheterritoryontheBirthdayofTinHau,thegoddessofthesea,inAprilorMay.AtvariousTinHautemples–notablyatSaiKungintheNewTerritories–thereareparadeswithliondancesandfloats.TheCheungChauBunFestival(formoreinformation,clickhere)inMayisoneofthemostexcitinglocalfestivals;figuresinhistoricalcostumesparadeonstiltsorrideonfloatsacrosstheisland.DuringtheDragonBoatFestivalinJune,elaboratelydecorateddragonboatsracetothebeatoflouddrums.Manypeople’sfavouriteistheMidAutumnFestival(MoonFestival)inSeptember:paperlanternsofallshapesandsizesareilluminatedandtakenouttopublicparks–notablyVictoriaParkinCausewayBay.Peoplealsoeatspecialsweetcakesknownasmooncakes.

PerformingtheFireDragonDanceattheHeritageMidAutumnFestival.

HKTB

TheChineseZodiacChinesefestivalsoperateusingthelunarcalendar.BeginningwithChineseNewYearinlateJanuaryorearlytomid-February,theyearisdividedinto12monthsof29days,withanextramonthaddedeverytwoandahalfyears.

Thecalendaroperatesin60-yearcycles,dividedupintofivesmallercyclesof12years.Eachyearisrepresentedbyananimal,andeachofthefivecyclesbyanelement(wood,water,metal,earthandfire).AswithWesternastrology,theyearofaperson’sbirthisthoughttoprovidecluesintohisorhercharacter.The12animalsare:Rat:(1948,1960,1972,1984,1996,2008,2020)charming,imaginativebutquick-tempered.Ox:(1949,1961,1973,1985,1997,2009,2021)aleader,conservativeandpatient.Tiger:(1950,1962,1974,1986,1998,2010,2022)sensitive,emotional,stubborn.Rabbit:(1951,1963,1975,1987,1999,2011)popular,sentimental,cautious.

Dragon:(1952,1964,1976,1988,2000,2012)charismatic,clever,pronetoindiscretion.Snake:(1953,1965,1977,1989,2001,2013)wise,thoughtful,charming,intuitive.Horse:(1954,1966,1978,1990,2002,2014)hard-working,intelligentbutegotistical.Ram:(1955,1967,1979,1991,2003,2015)artistic,pessimistic,generous.Monkey:(1956,1968,1980,1992,2004,2016)intelligent,witty,popularbutdistrustful.Rooster:(1957,1969,1981,1993,2005,2017)extravagant,brave,hard-working.Dog:(1958,1970,1982,1994,2006,2018)honest,faithful,dependablebutaworrier.Pig:(1959,1971,1983,1995,2007,2019)clever,sincere,honestbutpronetosetdifficultgoals.

IncenseburneratthefootoftheBigBuddhaonLantauIsland.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TheNewTerritories

HongKong’snorthernhinterlandiswelloffthetouristtrail,whichissurprisinggivenits

magnificentscenery.Somesplendidbeachesandancientwalledvillagesaddtotheappeal.

MainAttractions

TenThousandBuddhasMonasteryHongKongHeritageMuseum

TaiPoKauNatureReserveSaiKung

HikinginSaiKungCountryParkHongKongWetlandParkKamTinWalledVillages

KadoorieFarmandBotanicGarden

ThebufferbetweenthedenseurbanareaofKowloonandtheboundarywithmainlandChina,theNewTerritoriesareanoddmixture.Nobodyisploughingwithwaterbuffaloanylonger,buttherearecornerswheretimeseemstohavenotsomuchstoodstillasgoneintoreverse.Conversely,otherareasareasmodernasanywhereelseintheSAR,notablytheNewTownssuchasShaTinandYuenLong–andthisiswheremorethanhalfofHongKong’spopulationlive.Transportlinksaregood,withtheMTR’sEastRailrunningstraightupthemiddletotheborderwithmainlandChina,supplementedbytheMTRWestRail,TseungKawnOandMaOnShanlines,aswellastheLightRail.Awayfromtheelectrifiedrails,therearecalmbeachestoseekout,remotevillagesandloftymountainstohike–afterall,sometwo-fifthsoftheSARisdesignatedascountrypark.

TaiLongWanbeach,abeautifulpartofHongKong.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ShaTinandSurroundingsShaTin1[map]isoneofHongKong’slargestnewtowns,butitalsooffersplentyofrecreation.Massivehousingprojectsoccupywhatwereoncelushricepaddieswhoseproducewasreservedfortheemperor,whiletheNewTownPlaza,anextensiveshoppingandentertainmentcomplex,offerscinemas,designerboutiquesandamusicalfountainthatneverfailstodrawappreciativecrowds.

ThewalkuptotheTenThousandBuddhasMonastery.AlexHavret/ApaPublications

TenThousandBuddhasMonasteryAddress:PoFookHill,PaiTauVillage,ShaTin;www.10kbuddhas.org

Tel:26911067OpeningHrs:daily9am–5.30pm

Entrancefee:freeTransport:Citybus170(fromAberdeen),MTRShaTin

TheShaTinValleyhasseveralplacesofworshipincludingtheremarkableTenThousandBuddhasMonastery2[map].FollowthesignpostsfromGrandCentralPlazaandIKEA,thenclimbthe431stepsflankedbygold-paintedeffigiesofenlightenedbeingsupthehillsideaboveShaTinstation.Foundedin1949,themonasteryhasfivetemples.Thenameis,infact,over-modest–the

mainaltarroomaloneaccommodatescloseto13,000Buddhastatuesalongitswalls.Thetempleisguardedbyhuge,fierce-lookingstatuesofvariousgods,andbysimilarlyferociouswatchdogsthatarechainedupinthedaytime.Thecomplexalsocontainsanimpressivenine-storeypagodaofIndianarchitecturaldesign,commemoratingaBuddhawhowasbelievedtobetheninthreincarnationofPrinceVishnu.

Afurther69stepsupthehillistheTempleofManFat,containingthepreservedremainsofthemanwhocreatedthistemple-and-pagodacomplex:

YuetKai,amonkwhospentalifetimestudyingBuddhismandlivingameditativelife.Hisgreatestconcernwastoachieveimmortality–anobjectivewhichseemedtohavefailedwhenhediedandwasburied.Yetwhenhisbodywasexhumed(tobemovedtoitsfinalrestingplace,accordingtoChinesecustom),itwasperfectlypreservedandradiatedaghostlyyellowglow.SincetherewasobviouslysomethingsupernaturalaboutYuetKai,itwasdecidedtopreservehisbodyingoldleafforposterity.

StatuesattheTenThousandBuddhasMonastery.AlexHavret/ApaPublications

FromtheTenThousandBuddhasMonasteryyoucanlookacrossthevalley

atAmahRock,whichlookslikeanaamaa,ormother,withababyonherback.Legendhasitthatalocalfishermanwenttoseaanddidnotreturn.Hiswifewaitedpatientlyforhisreturnbuthedidnotappear.Afterayearthegodstookpityonherandturnedherintostone.TodaytherockisaplaceofworshipforChinesewomen,andstandsasasymbolofwomen’sloyaltyandfidelity.

ShaTinRacecourseispopularwithbothlocalsandtourists.

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AmajordestinationinthevalleyistheHongKongJockeyClub’sShaTinRacecourse3[map],whichhasitsownMTRstation.Around30,000puntersflockherefortheweekendracedays,butthecrowdcantripleoncupdayssuchastheHongKongDerby,theQueenElizabethIICupandtheHongKongInternationalRaces.Touristscanbuyspecialtouristbadgesatthetrackoratoff-sitebettingoffices,whichgrantthemaccesstothemembers’enclosureandafrontseatonHongKong’sracingworld.Formoreonhorse-racing,formoreinformation,clickhere.

Fact

PuntersattheHongKongJockeyClub’sShaTinRacecoursechecktheracingstatisticsandwatchthethoroughbredsgoingthroughtheirpacesontheworld’slongesttelevisionscreen.Measuring70.4metres(231ft),theLEDscreenisaslongasaBoeing747.Anaverageof40,000peoplebetoneveryrace,givingtheJockeyClubarace-dayturnoverinexcessofHK$1billion.

HongKongHeritageMuseumAddress:1ManLamRoad,ShaTin;www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk

Tel:21808188OpeningHrs:Mon,Wed–Fri10am–6pm,Sat–Sun10am–7pm

Entrancefee:charge,butfreeonWedTransport:KMBroutes72A,80M,86,89,282,MTRCheKungTempleIfyouareinShaTinalready,itiseasytotakeafive-minutetaxiridefromthemainstationtothesuperbandspaciousHongKongHeritageMuseum4[map].ThisisHongKong’slargestmuseum,with12exhibitionhallsincludingHongKong’sonlyformaltributetooneitsmostfamous(albeitUS-born)sons,BruceLee.OtherhighlightsincludetheT.T.TsuiGalleryofChineseArt,anexhibition

devotedtothedevelopmentoftheNewTerritories,oneonthehistoryofCantoneseoperaandanotherdetailingtheevolutionoflocaltoys.

TwostopsalongfromShaTinistheChineseUniversityofHongKong,withitshighlyrespectedArtMuseum(www.cuhk.edu.hk/ics/amm;tel:39437416;Mon–Sat10am–5pm,Sun1–5pm;free)showcasingacollectionofover7,000piecesfromitsextensivecollectionsofChineseartfromancienttopre-moderntimes.

TaiPoandtheNortheast

TaiPoandtheNortheastFurthernorth(backonthemainMTREastRailline)isthemarkettownofTaiPo5[map],whichmeans“buyingplace”.TheOldTownisatthenortheasternendofToloHarbour,wherethehighwaycrossestheLowerLamTsuenRiver.TheHongKongRailwayMuseum(www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk;Wed–Mon10am–6pm;tel:26533455;free),completewithvintagetraincarriages,ishousedintheformertrainstationbetweentoday’sTaiWoandTaiPoMarketMTRstations–a10-minutewalk:followthemapandsignsinMTRstations.Alternatively,takeataxi.

Catchbus64KorhopinataxifromTaiWostationtovisittheWishingTrees,apairofbanyanswhichhavebecomepopularwithlocalsfortheirallegedproperties.Theideaistomakeawish,writeitdownonthestreamerprovidedandthenhurlthisintothetree.Unfortunately,thetwoelderlybanyansstartedcollapsingunderthestrain,andfornowwishesareplacednearbyonawoodenrack.

OneofthebestplacestoescapefromurbanHongKongistheTaiPoKauNatureReserve6[map].

TaiPoKauNatureReserve

AshorttaxiridefromTaiPoMarketMTRstation,ora20-minutewalkfromthecarparknearthe14-milestoneonTaiPoRoad,TaiPoKauistheoldestofHongKong’sreserves.Plantingbeganherein1926aspartofthegovernment’sattempttoreforesttheNewTerritories(muchoftheoriginalforestcoverhadlongsincedisappeared,andwhatwasleftwasdestroyedduringtheJapaneseOccupation).

Today,the460hectares(1,136acres)offorestshelteragoodproportionofHongKong’sfloraandfauna.Nativetreespeciesincludelitsea,giantbean,sweetgum,camphor,acacia,paperbarkandthejoss-sticktree(Aquilaniasinensis)–usedformakingfansandjosssticks.Acolourfulvarietyofbirds–includingsuchexoticaasrufous-cappedbabblers,scarlet-backedflowerpeckersandgreaternecklacedlaughingthrushes,amongstanassortmentofbulbulsandminivets–makethereservetheirhome.March,AprilandSeptemberarethebest“birding”months.Mammalsarealsowellrepresented,althoughmostlydifficulttoobserve–theexceptionbeingtherhesusmacaquemonkeys,whichcanbequiteaggressive,particularlyifthereisfoodaround(avoidfeedingthem).Barkingdeer,civetcat,pangolinandporcupinearefarmoreelusive.

FreshseafoodinSaiKung.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ToloHarbourTothenortheast,thecoastaroundToloHarbourhasbecomemorebuiltupinrecentyears,butoncepastShuenWan,TingKokRoadmustrankamongthemostpicturesqueroutesinHongKong,leadingroundtothePloverCoveReservoir,Bride’sPoolandStarlingInlet.ArideonKMBbus75KfromTaiPoMarkettoTaiMeiTukletsyouenjoythepanoramas.Atweekendsandonpublicholidays,theroadsidebarbecueareasteemwithnoisygroups,buteventhen,afive-minutewalkintothehillsbringspeaceandsolitude.TheareaaroundBride’sPool7[map],withwaterfallsandwoodlandglades,isespecially

beautiful,whilethevillageofLukKengtothenorthstillhasseveralfineoldinhabitedhouses.Likemanysemi-abandonedvillages,LukKengwasoncehometoafewthousandpeople.Itsdeclinebeganinthe1950sand60s,whenricefarmingbecameunprofitable.ThenearbyvillageofNamChungmarksthenorthernendoftheWilsonTrail,a78km(49-mile)walkingroutethatrunsfromStanleyonHongKongIslandtothenorthernendoftheNewTerritories.

Bride’sPool.iStock

MirsBayIslandsOutatMirsBay(TaiPangWan)inthefarnortheastoftheSAR,TungPingChau8[map](nottobeconfusedwithPengChaunearLantau)isoneofHongKong’sremotestislands,just3km(2miles)offtheGuangdongcoast.Fromitshilltops,youcangetapanoramicviewofthemainland’sBaoAnarea.Oncesupportingapopulationofcloseto3,000,therearenoresidentsnow,thoughtheremainingdesertedhamletshavebecomepartofthetouristattraction.PingChauhasafascinatinglandscape,madeupofwhatareknownas‘thousandlayerrocks’–colourfulandunusuallyshapedsedimentaryrock.TheislandisnowoneoftheeightareasmakinguptheHongKongGeopark(www.geopark.gov.hk).

AtthenorthwesternendofMirsBayclosetotheSaiKungpeninsulaisTapMunChau9[map](alsocalledGrassIsland),a30-minuteboatridefrom

WongShekPier.Adramaticdeclineinfishstockshascausedacollapseofthefishingindustry,andofcommunitieslikeTapMun:todaymanyofthehousesstandempty,althoughthevillageretainsasingleseafoodrestaurant,LoiLam’s,thatmakesthejourneyworthwhile(andispackedoutatweekends).Apathwindsthroughthevillage,uppastthefortress-likepolicestation,andontoagrassyplateauwhosebriskwindsmakeitextremelypopularwithlocalkite-flyers.

OntheLungYeukTauHeritageTrail.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Thereareterrificviewsfromthenorthernpointoftheisland,particularlyfromthetopofthehillsnexttothe100-year-oldTinHauTemple.WhiletherearedozensofTinHautemplesalloverHongKong,thisoneisspecialbecauseitisthelastbeforetheopensea.Whentheeastwindsroar,theirsoundscanbe

heardinacreviceunderthealtar–thiseeriehowlingisseenasawarningofstormstocome.Formerislandresidentswhomayhaveemigratedtoallpartsoftheglobewillmakeaspecialefforttocomebacktothetempleformajorfestivals.

PartsofTapMunarecoveredwiththick,impenetrablescrub,butintheupperreachesmuchofitisabandonedagriculturalland,andthecowsthatoncepulledploughsarenowferalandroamfreely.

SunriseoverFanling.iStock

FanlingFanling)[map]anditsneighbourSheungShuiarenewtownswithoveraquarterofamillionresidents.FanlingisalsohometothelargestDaoistinstituteinHongKong–FungYingSinKoon(www.fysk.org;TempleofParadise;daily9am–5pm),closetoFanlingMTRstation.Thereisanintricatesystemof

pathwaysaroundthisrebuilttemple,andplentyofshadybenchessuitableformeditation.

ScenefromaShawBrothersmartialartsfilm.KobalCollection

Shawbrothers

ClearwaterBayRoadrunspasttheformerShawBrothersMovieStudio,onceacornerstoneofthelocalfilmindustry.FoundedbysixbrothersfromShanghaiin1958,forthreedecadesthestudiooftenchurnedoutover30filmsayear.Bestknownfortheirmartialartsmovies,thebrothersalsoproducedromance,operaanddramas;manyoftheir1,000-plusfilmsarenowconsideredclassicHongKongmovies.ShawBrothershasoneoftheworld’smostadvancedfilmproductionanddigitalpost-productionfacilitiesinaUS$180millionbuildingonthehillaboveTseungKwanO.Thepatriarchoftheempire,SirRunRunShaw,wasawardedaBAFTASpecialAwardin2013,attheageof106,shortlybeforehepassedawayinJanuary2014.

FromFanlingstation,it’sashortrideonthe64KminibustotheLeungYukTauHeritageTrail,startingatShungHimTong–avillagefoundedin1901byHakkaLutheransfleeingpersecutionacrosstheborder.ThetrailwendsitswayaroundseveralwalledvillagesbeforereachingthevenerableTangChungLingAncestralHall(Wed–Mon9am–1pm,2–5pm;free).Originallybuiltin1570,thehallremainsafocalpointoftheTangclan.

Onamoreearthlylevel,thewell-knownHongKongGolfClub(www.hkgolfclub.org)justoutsideFanlinghasthreeexceptionallygood18-holers,knownastheOld,theNewandtheEden.ItisthesiteoftheHongKongOpenTournamenteveryFebruary,andisopentonon-membersonweekdays,thoughvisitorswillrequireahandicapcertificate.

ViewofClearwaterBay,towardsthegolfclub.

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ClearwaterBaytoSaiKungTheseeasternareasoftheNewTerritoriesaresomeofthemostattractivepartsofHongKong.TheSaiKungpeninsulaisthemostscenicarea,withrollinghills,mountains,reservoirs,craggycovesandover70islands.Itisatitsmostrewardingifyoucanhikeintothehillsortaketothewateronaferry,speedboatorjunk.

ClearwaterBayTheClearwaterBaypeninsula![map]isasought-afterresidentialareathatisblessedwithsomegreatbeachesandpossiblythefreshestairinHongKong.ThesingleaccessroadleadspasttheformerShawBrothersMovieStudiotoreachtheexclusiveClearwaterBayGolf&CountryClub,easilyrecognisedbyitslandmarkpyramid-shapedclubhouse.Non-memberscanplayhere,but

greenfeesarehigh.

HikersinSaiWan.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TheTinHauFestival

TinHau,theDaoistseagoddess,isreveredbyfishermenallalongtheChinacoast.AlsoknownasMatsuandA-Ma,herdeificationisbasedonthelegendofLinMoniang,aFujianesegirlwholivedinthe10thcentury.Asleepduringastorm,shedreamtthathertwofishermanbrothersweredrowning,andthatshemanagedtosavethem.Whenthebrothersmiraculouslysurvivedtherealstorm,thestoryspread,andLinbecametheobjectoffishermen’sprayersforprotectionfromthedangersofthesea.

Thefestivalofherbirthonthe23rddayofthethirdlunarmonth(mid-April–mid-May),isanoisycelebrationatitsliveliestaroundtheTinHauTempleinJossHouseBay.

AnindentationintheshorelineformsJossHouseBay,whichcomestolifeonceayearonthebirthdayoftheseagoddessTinHau.HundredsoffishingjunksandsampansheadfortheTinHauTempleheretopaytheirrespectstotheQueenofHeavenandGoddessoftheSea.ThistemplewasbuiltbytwobrothersallegedlysavedbyTinHauaftertheirjunkwasdestroyedbyatyphooninthe10thcentury.Tocopewithupto10,000visitorsduringtheannualTinHaufestival,ferriesrunforonedayonlyfromNorthPointonHongKongIsland.

Tip

TherearesomegoodbeachesaroundClearwaterBay,andcomparedwiththewilderstretchesofsandfurthernorthinSaiKung,theyareeasilyaccessibleontheno.91busfromDiamondHillMTRstation.

TungLungChauAlsoknownasNamTongIsland,TungLungChau@[map]islocatedoffthesoutherntipoftheClearwaterBaypeninsula.Theisland’sbiggestattractionisTungLungFort(InformationCentreWed–Mon9am–5pm;openaccesstothe

fort)builtabout300yearsago.Tofindthefort,followthepathfromthehamletattheferrypierovertherolling,openlandscapeofnorthernTungLung.Thefortisperchedonalowheadlandinthenortheast.Itwasabandonedin1810,butitsinteriorisreasonablywellpreserved,withthebasesofthepartitionsbetweentheroomsvisible.

OnthenorthshoreofTungLungChauaresomerockcarvingsonthecliffsdepictingthedailylivesofpeoplewholivedinthisareaseveralhundredyearsago.Itisaperfectplacetoenjoythebeautifulseaview,withwavesrushingtotheshoreandhikingtrailsleadalongthecliffsandhills.Aswithmostoftheoutlyingislands,thereisnoregularferrytoTungLung,butkaidoboatsfromSaiWanHoonHongKongIslandoperateonmostweekends(tel:25131103).

Island-hoppingfromSaiKung

OffshorefromSaiKungvillage,someofthemosteasilyaccessibleoutlyingislandssitintheInnerPortShelter(NgauMeiHoi),aformerBritishmilitaryfiringrangethatmakesaveryphotogenicstarttothetrip.Sampanownerswilleithermakeaone-hourtourforaboutHK$100(bargainhard!),droppingyouoffforashortstrollatwhicheverislandyoudesire,orchargearoundHK$300totakeyoutoyourdestinationandthenpickyouuplater.OneofthenicestbeachesisatHapMunBayonKiuTsuiChau(SharpIsland),withfinesandandwaterthatisusuallyclear.Youcanalsocampovernighthere,andtherearebarbecuepitsforacook-out.Ifrecentvisitorsorperhapsarecentstormhaveleftthebeachinamess,don’thesitatetomoveonroundtheharbour:thereareotherstrandsonPakShaChau(WhiteSandIsland)andtinyChamTauChau(PillowIsland).YimTinTsai(LittleSaltField)IslandisremarkableforitsCatholicchapel,whichseeslittleusenow,asmanyoftheislandershavemovedaway.Rememberthatwhicheverislandyoupick,youshouldtakeenoughfoodanddrinktokeepyougoing;sunscreenandmosquitorepellentarealsoadvisable.

SaiKung

Hiram’sHighwaybranchesoffClearwaterBayRoadjustbeforetheUniversityofScienceandTechnology,andleadsdowntothetownofSaiKung£[map].TheroadisnamedafterabrandofsausagemadebyHiramK.Pottsthatthehighway’sbuilder,JohnWynne-Potts,devouredbythetin.WhilethefringesofSaiKunghavefallenpreytodevelopment,thistownanditsneighbouringvillagesretainastrongseasideflavour.Alongtheseafront,seacreaturesintanksareasuresignthatseafoodisonthequaysiderestaurants’menus,andSaiKungTownalsohasgoodpubsandalfrescointernationalrestaurants.FurthereastalongtheseafrontyoucancatchtheferrytoKauSaiChau,theonlypublicgolfcourseinHongKong.

TheroadfromtownrunsouttoSaiKungCountryPark$[map],thestartingpointoftheMacLehoseTrail.Thetrailstretchesfor100km(60miles)throughmostlyopencountry,fromonesideoftheNewTerritoriestotheother,acrossthehighgrassyhillsasfarasTuenMun.Thetrailiswellmarked,andthereareplacestocampalongtheway.Somepartsareextremelysteepandhard-going,butanyonewhoisusedtohikingshouldhavenoproblemstacklingtheshortersectionsoranyoftheotherwalksinthisarea.Attheveryendoftheroadintothecountrypark,HoiHaprovidesasmallstretchofsandontheedgeoftheeponymousmarinereserve.

ThewhitesandbeachatTaiLongWan.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ThejewelinSaiKung’scrownisTaiLongWan(BigWaveBay)Beach%[map].Theusualwayofgettingthereinvolvesatwo-hourtrek,eitheraroundtheHighIslandReservoirorbycuttingacrossthehillsalongtheMacLehoseTrailStage2fromtheroadatPakTamAu.OthersopttotakeabusortaxitoWongShek(formoreinformation,clickhere)andhoponaspeedboat(aroundHK$60forsmallgroups)forathrilling15-minuterideroundtoChekKeng,thenjointheMacLehoseTrailandhikeforanhourovertheridgetothebay.Whicheverwayyouarrive,theeffortismorethanworthit.Therearetwolongswathesofverypaleandpowderysand,andusuallyenoughsurftomakeitworthluggingasurfboardoverthehill.Thereisalsoacafé-cum-shopsellingcoldbeerandhotnoodles,andenoughopenspacetorompfarandwide.TheonedownsideofTaiLongWanisthatthereisastrongundertow,sodon’tswimouttoofar.AdayofrestandrelaxationheremakesitdifficulttobelievethatthisispartofHongKong.

TheTsingMaBridge,HongKong’s‘GoldenGate’.Dreamstime

BeyondthecrestatPakTamAu,theroadswoopsdownthroughwoodsandlittlevillagestoWongShekpier,butfromjustbelowthetopit’sworthpausingtoadmirethepristineviews.

AtWongShek^[map](Bus94fromSaiKung)theJockeyClubwatersportscentrehiresoutdinghiesandwindsurfingboards(tel.23282311;

closedTue).Thisisalsoapopularpicnicandbarbecuesite–perhapsbecauseit’sseenasthe“endoftheline”,justaboutasfarawayfromthecityasit’spossibletogetbyroad.

ChekKeng&[map]isnearlydesertednowadays,butit’sfascinatingtowanderroundtheoldbuildingsandpaddyfieldsandimaginethetimewhentheNewTerritorieswerealandapart,withpeoplelivingonwhattheycouldearnfromsoilandsea.ThisremainsagloriouslyemptypartofHongKongthatevenlocalsknowlittleabout.

Hikinginthehills

OneofHongKong’sgreatestassetsisitsmountainouscountryside,andtheopengrassyhillsoftheNewTerritoriesoffersuperbhiking

opportunities.

Inarockygullytheairisdank.Farabove,hiddenbyawalloftrees,aretheupperslopesofTaiMoShan(957metres/3,140ft),thegreatmassifthatencompassesthecentralNewTerritories,andHongKong’shighestpoint.Cuttingdownthroughthemountain,watercascadesbeyondrocksgreenwithslime.Lowerdown,gurglingamidstbamboothickets,thestreamdescendsintothesprawlingbowloftheShingMunValley.

Furthertotheeast,onthebeautifulSaiKungpeninsula,thesteepgrassyslopesofSharpPeak(468metres/1,535ft)plungedowntoTaiLongWan–abayringedbycrescentbeaches.Rangesstretchintothedistance,loomingaboveseldom-visitedvalleys.

InthefarnortheastisPatSinLeng(639metres/2,096ft)–grand,challengingandthenorthernlimitoftheHongKonguplands.Jaggedridgesriseupabovesheerescarpments.Valleyswithrichbiodiversityoccupylandwhere,just40yearsago,ricefarmerstilledtheland.Oldhomes,emptyandforlorn,standamidstthefields.

TheNewTerritories’countrysideremainslargelyempty.Withitssteeppeaks,deepvalleysandoceanviews,itepitomisestheChinesetermfor“landscape”–shanshui,literally“mountainsandwater”,whichdefinesaparticularstyleoftraditionalChinesepainting.

LocalhikesThelandscapeiscriss-crossedwithnumeroushikingtrails,varyingfromfamilywalkstosignpostednaturetrailstoruggeduplandandcoastalhikesleadingintoareaswhereonerarelyseesanothersoul.Excellentpublictransportmakesaccessquiteeasy.

FromtheShingMunValley,a14km(9-mile)hiketakesyouupandacrossimpressiveboulderslopes,pastthemassivesummitofTaiMoShan,anddownthroughthelushandbeautifulPakNgaShanValley–siteofKadoorieFarmandBotanicGarden(formoreinformation,clickhere).

TheidealhikeontheSaiKungpeninsulaistheroutethatconnects

TheidealhikeontheSaiKungpeninsulaistheroutethatconnectsSharpPeakwithTaiLongWan,acircularrouteofabout15km(9.5miles).Noodleshopsinafewplacesofferwelcomerefreshment,andthecleanbeachesaregreatforswimming.

ThehikeupandoverthePatSinLengrangeisonlyabout10km(6miles),butthedistancecanbemisleading.Hereaseriesofsharpup-and-downpeaksmarkadramatic,airyridgeline,withtheviewssweepingsouthtowardsHongKongandnorthintoChinaproper.

Fortheambitious,theMacLehoseTrail(formoreinformation,clickhere)crossestheentirewidthoftheNewTerritories,extendingeast–westforsome100km(62miles),whiletheWilsonTrail(70km/44miles)runsnorthfromStanleyonHongKongIslandtothePatSinLengrange.

GirlhikinginHighJunkPeak,oneofthethreetreacherouspeaksinHongKong.Dreamstime

TheWesternNewTerritoriesLookingtothenorthwestfromHongKongIsland,theviewacrosstheharbourtotheshoreofthewesternNewTerritoriesisdominatedbycontainerships,cranesandanetworkofbridgescrossingfromLantautoTsingYiIslandandontoKowloon.KwaiChungcontainerportisoneofthethreebusiestportsintheworld,transportinggoodsfromfactoriesinGuangdongtoportsworldwide.

world,transportinggoodsfromfactoriesinGuangdongtoportsworldwide.

TsuenWanskyline,withtheL’HotelNinaontheleft.iStock

ThebusyportandtheneedforroadandraillinkstotheairportonLantaupromptedtheinvestmentofpublicfundsintohugeinfrastructureprojects,includingsomedramaticnewbridges.Openedin1997,theTsingMaBridge*[map]issome2.2km(1.5miles)long,withmajestic200-metre(650ft)twintowers.ItlinksLantau(andtheairport)withTsingYiIsland.TheentrancetotheRamblerChannelbetweenContainerTerminal9onTsingYiandtheeightothercontainerterminalsatKwaiChung,isspannedbyStonecutters’Bridge,1.6km(1mile)long,withcablesradiatingfromits295-metre(970ft)towers.TheLantauLinkVisitorCentre(Mon–Fri10am–5pm,Sat–Sun10am–6.30pm,closedWed),ontheNorthWestTsingYiInterchange,explainshowthebridgewasbuilt,andhowitcontinuestowork,whiletheadjacentviewingplatformhasspectacularviewsofthebridgeandsurroundingcountryside.

SunriseinTaiMoShan.

123RF

TsuenWanBehindtheindustrialareaatKwaiChungistheurbansprawlofthenewtownofTsuenWan([map].TheChinesepresencehereseemstohavebeguninaboutthe2ndcenturyAD.Inthe13thcentury,theChineseEmpireextendedtothisareabecausetheemperorwasbeingdrivensouthbyinvadingMongols.In1277,theemperorandhisentouragearrivedinTsuenWan.Later,inthemid-17th

century,whentheFormosanpirateKoxingawasbuildinghisempire,theManchugovernmentorderedamassevacuationofcoastalareastosavethepopulacefromthemaraudingbuccaneer.Koxinga’sforcesdemolishedthevacatedsettlementofTsuenWan,anditwasnotrepopulateduntiltheendofthe17thcentury.

Tip

TheYuenYuenInstitute(daily9am–5pm;free)nearTsuenWanispopularonorganisedtouristitineraries.Itwassetupin1950andistheonlytempleinHongKongdedicatedtoallthreemajorChinesereligions:Daoism,BuddhismandConfucianism,andactivelypromotestheintegrationofthethreereligions’philosophies.Thereisagoodvegetarianrestaurantonsite.

ThemainreasontomakethelongMTRjourneyouthereistopokearoundtheSamTungUkMuseum(Wed–Mon9am–6pm;free),abeautifullyrestoredHakkawalledvillage.Thenarrowalleywaystraceapathpastacentralancestralhall,anexhibitionroomandrowsoftinycubiclesstockedwithperiodfurnitureandfarmingtools.

TsuenWan’smostmodernbuildingisalsothesixthtallestinHongKong.Thetop40storeysofthe319-metre(1,046ft)NinaTowerisL’HotelNina,namedlikethetowerafterthelateNinaWang,whowasHongKong’srichestwomanwhenshediedin2007,leavingherfortunetoherfengshuimaster.

BeyondTsuenWanWestofTsuenWan,theTuenMunHighwaypassesanotherimpressiveairport-relatedbridge–TsingLong–beforereachingthesprawlingNewTownofTuenMun.

NearCastlePeak,thelargemountainwestofTuenMunthatismostlyoccupiedbyarmyfiringranges,andadjacenttotheChingChungLightRailTransit(LRT)station,isthehugetempleofChingChungKoon,[map]

(daily9am–5.30pm).DedicatedtoLuiBun,oneoftheso-calledDaoistimmortals,thetemplehousesnumerousvaluableChinesearttreasures(notonshow).DespiteastarringroleintheopeningsceneofBruceLee’sEntertheDragon,inHongKongitisbestknownasacolumbarium,wheretheashesofthedeceasedarestored.Nichescontainingashes,oftenfeaturingphotographsofthedeceased,arelookedafterbytempleattendants.ChingChungKoonisalsohometoafewelderlyresidents,forwhomitprovidesmedicalservices.Thereisavegetariancanteensellingbasic,fillingfareforvisitors.

OntheslopesofCastlePeakstandsatemplethatissmallerbutnolessintriguingforthat–PeiTuTemple⁄[map],dedicatedtotheeponymousmonk,afamousfigureinChinesemythology.

Fact

WithlandalwaysatapremiuminHongKong,theissueofthe7millionpopulation’sfinalrestingplacesoccasionallycomestothefore.Withnichesinwell-knowntemplesandcolumbariacommandingsuchhighprices,anumberofillegalfacilitieswerediscoveredin2010onremoteislandsandareasintheNewTerritories–and,inafewcases,insideapartmentswithinresidentialhousingblocks.

VividgreeneryatHongKongWetlandPark.

123RF

YuenLongIn1898,whentheBritishtookacensusoftheirnewlyleasedNewTerritories,YuenLong¤[map]wasatraditionalmarkettownsetamong50orsovillagesinthemiddleofthelargestfloodplainintheNewTerritories.Thecensuslogged23,000peopleintheYuenLongdistrict.Nowthepopulationisalmost615,000,mostofwhomliveinthehigh-riseblocksofTinShuiWaiandYuenLongnewtowns.Afewremarkableremnantsofthepastremain,however,andtheareacanbeexploredviatheoverlandLightRail,busesandtheMTR.ItisalsothestartingpointforexploringthemangrovesandmudflatsofHongKong’swetlands.

FromTinShuiWaiMTRit’sashortwalktothePingShanHeritageTrail,ashort1km(0.6-mile)strollthroughmorethanhalfadozenhistoricalChinesebuildingsofwhichthehighlightistheonlysurvivingintactpagodainHongKong–theTsuiSingLau(PagodaofGatheringStars),builtin1486toimprovethevillage’sfengshui.

HongKongWetlandParkAddress:WetlandParkRoad,TinShuiWai;www.wetlandpark.gov.hk

Tel:31522666OpeningHrs:Wed–Mon10am–5pm

EntranceFee:chargeTransport:KMB&Citybusnos.967,264M,276B,LRTWetlandParkTheHongKongWetlandParkallowsvisitorstoexplorethediversityofHong

Kong’swetlandecosystembyfollowingwoodendeckingpathsthatmeanderthroughanareaofcoastalmarshland.

Withinthe61-hectare(151-acre)areathereareseveralhideswithgood-qualitytelescopesforbirdwatching.Sofar241birdspecieshavebeenrecordedhere,includingnumerousvarietiesofegretsandherons,andtherareblack-facedspoonbill.Anindoorvisitorcentrehouseseducationalinteractiveexhibitionsonconservationissues.

TheKadoorieFarmprovidesawelcomeretreatfromurbanHongKong.Dreamstime

TheMaiPoMarshes

Forthededicatedbirdwatcherornaturalist,avisittotheMaiPoMarshes‹[map]isamust.ManagedbytheWorldWideFundforNature(WWF),thisexpanseofmangrovesandmudflatsisastoppingpointonthemigratoryroutesofmorethan400differentspeciesofbirds.TheWWFrunsscheduledtours,butvisitsmustalwaysbebookedinadvance(tel:24713480;www.wwf.org.hk;charge).

Fact

ThefiveGreatClansintheNewTerritoriesfirstmovedintoGuangdongduringtheHandynasty,thentoHongKongduringtheSongandYuandynasties.ThefiveclansweretheTang,Hau,Pang,LiuandMan.TheTangssettledintheYuenLongareaandwerethearchitectsofthebuildingsalongtheLungYeukTauandPingShanHeritageTrailsandtheKamTinwalledvillages.

KamTinwalledvillagesEastofYuenLong,thewalledvillagesofKamTin›[map]canbereachedeasilybyMTR

(KamSheungRoadstation)orthe64Kbus.ThemostpopularforvisitorsistheKatHingWaivillage,which

standsincongruouslysurroundedbymodernhousingasheavyvehicletraffictrundlespast(togetthere,taketheMTRWestRailtoKamSheungRoadStation).Some400peoplelivethere,andmostofthemstillsharethesame

surname,Tang.Builtinthe1600s,thefortifiedvillagesheltersbehindwalls6metres(20ft)

thick,withguard-housesateachcorner,arrowslitsforfightingoffattackersandamoat,althoughtheauthenticitymayseemcompromisedbysomemodernbuildingsinside.Visitorscanenterforanominalcharge,althoughtheladiesintraditionalHakkadressareexperiencedmodelsandwillexpectafeeforaphotograph.

AcrossthecentralmountainsFromKamTinitispossibletotakeascenicrouteviaShekKongfi[map],oncetheBritishmilitarygarrisonandairfieldbutnowhometoaskeletonforceoftheChinesePeople’sLiberationArmy.ThefarendofthevillagemarksthestartofRouteTwisk(anacronymforTsuenWan/ShekKong),oneofthemostpanoramicdrivesinHongKong.

Analternativerouteistotakethe64KbusthatcrossestheHKSARfromYuenLongtoTaiPo,andforjustafewdollarsenjoythesightsalongtheLamKanRoadasitwindsalongthroughthecontrastsofthe21st-centuryNewTerritories–scrapmetalyards,abandonedcars,containersandcreeper-coveredheavymachineryamongsprawlingvillagesofSpanishvillas,surroundedbymajesticmountainsandlushforests,withglimpsesofthespiresofHongKongandShenzhenoneitherside.

FromthetopofRouteTwisknearHongKong’shighestpeak,TaiMoShanfl[map](957metres/3,140ft),onecanlookovertoChinaanddowntoHongKongIsland.ContinueonLamKamRoadtoPakNgauShekintheLamTsuenvalleytoreachKadoorieFarm.

Kids

KadoorieFarmisagreatplacetotakechildren.Aswellasthechancetoexperiencethelocalfloraupclose,there’sanamphibianandreptilehouse,insecthouseandvariousfarmanimalstosee.InjuredbirdsofpreyaretreatedandreleasedbackintothewildfromtheRaptorSanctuary,andthereisalsoawildliferescuecentre.

KadoorieFarmandBotanicGardenAddress:LamKamRoad,TaiPodistrict;www.kfbg.org.hk

Tel:24837200OpeningHrs:daily9.30am–5pm

EntranceFee:charge

Transport:MTRKamSheungRoad,then64KtoTaiPo

LocatedatthefootofTaiMoShaningroundsof1.5sqkm(0.5sqmile),KadoorieFarmisaboutasfarfromurbanHongKongasitispossibletoget.Setupinthe1950s,whenitprovidedpigsandchickenstohelpnewlyarrivedrefugeesbecomeself-sufficient,KadooriehassinceevolvedintoaconservationcentreandwildanimalsanctuaryandisapioneeroforganicfarminginHongKong.

It’safairlysteepwalkupthelandscapedhillsidetothepeak,KwunYumShan(552metres/1,811ft),butthemagnificentviewsacrosstheNewTerritoriestoShenzhenbringafittingreward.Alternatively,youcancallaheadtocoordinateyourvisitwiththetwice-dailyshuttlebusthatrunsfromthefarmtothepeak.

Insight:HongKong’sWildSide

Aseriesofcountryparksoccupyover40percentoftheSAR’slandarea,andoffereasilyaccessible

respitefromthismoststressfulofcities.

OneofthemanyunusualaspectsofHongKongisthecontrastbetweensomeoftheworld’smostdenselypopulatedurbanareasandtheutterlyemptycountrysidethatsurroundsthem.InpartsoftheNewTerritoriesandOutlyingIslandsitispossibletowalkformileaftermileindramaticmountainscenery,enjoysuperbnaturalviews,andseenooneforhoursonend.

Foritsmodestsize,HongKonghassomeimpressivemountains–at957metres(3,140ft)TaiMoShanisonaparwiththehighestmountaininEngland,andseveralothersintheNewTerritoriesandLantauarenotfarbehind.Awell-signpostednetworkofhikingtrailsextendsacrossall24countryparks,withsomelongerdistanceroutessuchastheMacLehose,WilsonandHongKongIslandtrails.

Areasofwoodlandoccuratlowerandmiddlelevels,sometimesasaresultofreforestation,butmostuplandareasweredeforestedlongagobytheagriculturalneedsofvillagers.Thehigherareasarealmostallgrasslandandshrubland,brightgreeninsummer,browninthedrywinters.

WaterfallatThePeak.

Alamy

HongKong’sfaunaandfloraLocatedontheeasternedgeoftheEurasianlandmass,HongKongliesinatransitionzonebetweenthecoolerlandstothenorthandthetropicalsouth.Thecoolwintersbroughtbythenortheastmonsoonwindsmeanthatthenaturalvegetationcoverisnottropical“jungle”,butratherbroad-leavedforestwithtemperateoaksandlaurelsaswellastropicalspeciessuchaslianas,banyansandfanpalms.Theoriginalforestcoverdisappearedcenturiesagotobereplacedeitherbyagricultureorgrassland(onthehills),butsomeareasarenowsuccessfullyreforested.

AwidevarietyofwildlifesurvivesinHongKong.TheTaiPoKauNatureReservesheltersrhesusmacaques,pangolins,civetcatsandbarkingdeeraswellasalargediversityofbirds,amphibiansandreptiles.TheMaiPoMarshesareanimportantrestingpointformigratorybirds.Marinelifehasbeenbadlyhitbypollution,butChineseriverdolphinscanstillbeseenoffthecoastofLantau.

TheOutlyingIslands

Eachofthethreeprincipaloutlyingislands,Lantau,CheungChauandLamma,makea

rewardingdaytripfromthecity.Attractionsincludesandybeaches,seafoodrestaurants,appealingvillages,beautifulsceneryand–onadifferent

note–Lantau’sDisneylandthemepark.

MainAttractions

PoLinMonasteryandtheBigBuddhaNgongPingCableCar

TaiOCheungShaBeach

DisneylandCheungChauvillagePakTaiTemple

YungShueWantoSokKwuWanWalk

AsubstantialmajorityofHongKong’svisitorsarriveatthestate-of-the-artinternationalairportonwhatusedtobean“outlyingisland”,butonewhichisnowjoinedbyroad-and-railsuspensionbridgetoKowloon.WithinashortspaceoftimetheyarebeingwhiskedintothecityaboardthesmoothAirportExpresstrain,passingnottoweringskyscrapersbutloftymountainswhicharepartofLantau’scountryparks.SucharethecontrastsonHongKong’sislands.

The‘boatpeople’ofTaiOvillagehavebuilttheirhomesonstiltsoverTaiOCreek.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Lantau’speacefulcountrysidehassufferedfromthedualonslaughtoftheairportandtheconstructionoftheDisneylandthemepark,butHongKong’sotherlargeoutlyingislands,LammaandCheungChau,arefarlessdeveloped.Heretherearenoproperroads(justnarrowconcretepaths),andfewstructuresarehigherthanthreestoreys.Theremainderoftheislands–morethan230ofthem–areeitheruninhabitedorsupportsmallruralcommunities.

ThisscatteredarchipelagoprovidesaglimpseofHongKongthroughthelooking-glass,aportionoftheSouthChinacoastthatreflectsbothrapidchangeandtimelesscohesion.Naturally,manyyoungislandershavemovedawayintothecityandlefttheirhomestoageingparents.Untilrecently,fishingwasthemainsourceofincomefortheremainingislanders,buttimeshavechanged,and

mainsourceofincomefortheremainingislanders,buttimeshavechanged,andthemostprofitablebusinessesarenowproperty,restaurantsandtourism.

AcoupleholdssticksofburningincenseatPoLinMonastry.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Tip

FerriesoperatefromPierno.6intheOutlyingIslands’ferrypiersinCentraltoMuiWo(SilvermineBay)onLantauapproximatelyevery30–50minutesthroughoutthedayonweekdays,andevery40–60minutesatweekends.Journeytimeiseither30minutesona“fastferry”or50minutesonan“ordinaryferry”.Forinformation,tel:21318181.Itisaveryscenic45-minutebusridefromMuiWotoeitherNgongPingorTaiO.

LantauLantau(“brokenhead”inCantonese)isbyfarthelargestofHongKong’sislands.Itsnorthandeastaredominatedbythenewairport,afour-lanehighway,anddoublerailwaylineswhichthunderalongtheshoretotheapartmentblocksofTungChung,TsingMaBridgeandtheDisneylandthemepark.Therestoftheislandispredominantlyrural.InthesoutharelongbeachesandsmalltownshipssuchasMuiWo(SilvermineBay),linkedbyferriesandpacketboats(kaido)toPengChau(pleasant,thoughhardlyamust-see)andCheungChau.InthefarwestofLantau,TaiOandFanLauarefavouritedestinationsforday-trippers,andtherearegoodcoastalandhillwalks.

TheBigBuddha,officiallythe‘TianTanBuddha’,onLantauIsland.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ThecentreofLantauisdominatedbyloftymountains,notablyLantauPeak(934metres/3,064ft)andSunsetPeak(869metres/2,851ft),criss-crossedwithwanderingpathwaysanddustytrailslinkinganumberofBuddhistmonasteries.The70km(43-mile)LantauTrailandotherintersectingsideroutesaregoodforashortstroll,adaytriporovernighttrek.Aparticularlygoodhikecirclesthevast(20,900-million-litre/5,500-million-gallon)ShekPikReservoir,onthewesternslopesofLantauPeak.Alternatively,acoastalpathrunsfromShekPikroundtoTaiO.

PoLinMonastery1[map]Address:NgongPing,Lantau;www.plm.org.hk

Tel:29855248OpeningHrs:daily8am–6pm

EntranceFee:freeTransport:no.2busfromMuiWoFerryPier,no.23fromTungChung(orby

taxiorcablecar),MTRTungChung,thentaxiorcablecarUponthemountainouscentralspineisoneofHongKong’sbest-knownattractions,the

red,orangeandgoldPoLinMonastery(PreciousLotusMonastery).Thelargecomplex,whichdatesbacktothe1920s,isbusierandnoisierthantheaverageBuddhistretreat.Itscanteenservesgoodvegetarianmealsbetween11.30amand4.30pm.Therealcrowd-puller,however,isthe26.4metre(87ft)tallTianTanBuddha,knowncolloquiallyasthe“BigBuddha”.Thethree-storeybaseon

whichBuddhasitsismodelledonthesupportstructurefortheHallofPrayerForGoodHarvestsatBeijing’sfamousTianTantempleandexplainsthestatue’sname.Alongflightofstepsleadsuptothestatueandtherearefantasticviewsfromthetopwhentheweatherisclear,whileanexhibitioninthebaseofthe

statueexplainshowitwasbuilt.

NgongPingVillage,aBuddhist-themedtouristattractiononLantauIsland.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Tip

MuchofthecentralpartofLantauisdottedwithsmallBuddhistmonasteries.WestofPoLininthedirectionofTaiOonLantau’snortherncoastisanexcellentwalkingpaththattraversesmountainridges,canyonsandstreamsenroutetoLantau’sYingHingMonastery,ahavenrichwithtraditionalBuddhistpaintingsandstatues.Themonasterysitsonaslopeandcommandsafineviewofthesurroundingmountains,farmlandandtheSouthChinaSea.

ThemonasteryhasmanagedtoretainasemblanceofserenitydespitetheproximityoftheairportandthenumberoftouristswhocomeheretoseetheBigBuddha–theiraccesseasedbytheNgongPing360cablecar(formoreinformation,clickhere).

ShoppersinTaiOVillage,LantauIsland.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

NgongPingVillageArecentarrivalonthePoLintouristtrail,theNgongPingVillageisaslightlytackyBuddhist-themedattraction(Mon–Fri10am–6pm,Sat10am–6.30pm;free)completewithgardens,teahousesandtheatreshowsaboutBuddhismforadultsandchildren–ratherquixoticallyofferinga“JourneyofEnlightenment”.

AtthebaseoftheBigBuddha.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

AnalternativewaytoreachthecentralLantauheightsisbytakingtheNgongPing360CableCar(www.np360.com.hk;Mon–Fri10am–6pm;Sat–Sun9am–6.30pm;charge)fromTungChung(ashortwalkfromtheMTRstation),whichgivesviewsacrossLantauandtheairport–althoughhazecanspoilthis.Glass-flooredcabinsaddextraexcitementtothejourney.Onceatthetop,strollthroughNgongPing’sgardenstotheBigBuddha.

TungChungFortBestaccessedbyhikingfromNgongPingorLantauPeak,TungChungFortoverlookstheeponymousnewtown.Aforthasexistedonthesitesincethe12thcentury,protectingtheareafrompiratesandother“outerbarbarians”.Thethickramparts,includingsixoldcannons,datebacktothe19thcentury,whentheQingArmyestablishedagarrisonhere;thisremaineduntiltheNewTerritories(ofwhichtheOutlyingIslandsformapart)wasleasedtoBritainin1898.

TaiOOneofLantau’soldercommunities,remoteTaiO2[map]islocatedonthenorthwestcoast,closer–asthecrowflies–toMacauthantoCentral.Here,theTanka“boatpeople”,whotraditionallylivedontheirboatsnearshore,havebecomesemi-landdwellers.AlongTaiOCreek,theyhavealsobuiltricketyhomesonstiltsoverpartsofthecreek.

Theoldrope-ferrythatwasonceafeatureofTaiOhasbeenreplacedbyabridge.Beneathitsarch,boatmenoffertripsouttoseeHongKong’spinkdolphins,whosomehowmanagetoexistinthepollutedwatersoffshore.However,abetteroptionistotakeatripwiththeenvironmentallysensitiveHongKongDolphinwatch(www.hkdolphinwatch.com).

TaiOVillageviewedfromacrossTaiOCreek.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

MuiWoandthesouthernbeachesLantauisfamedforthelong,smoothandoftenemptybeachesthatlinemuchofitssoutherncoastline.ThemostpopularandcrowdedbeachisatMuiWo(SilvermineBay)3[map].Aclutchofbarsandrestaurantshasopenedinthevillage,roisteringaffairsthatbecomeverybusyatweekends.

DisneylandonLantauIsland.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

A15-minutebusridewilltakeyoutothestunning,sweepingbaythatisCheungShaBeach.Stretchingfor3.2km(2miles),itisoneofHongKong’slongestbeachesandofferswatersportsandotheractivities.Kite-surfing,skim-boarding,alfrescodiningandasmallvillageofteepee-styleaccommodationmakethestretchofCheungShaknownasPalmBeacharealgetaway.

Largelycutofffromtherestoftheislandisamajorreal-estatedevelopmentcalledDiscoveryBay4[map],awell-plannedbutrathersoullesscomplexthatincludesagolfcourse.“DB”isamagnetforexpatswithahankeringforsuburbia,andhaselicitedcomparisonwithTheTrumanShow.

HongKongDisneyland5[map]Address:SunnyBay,Lantau.park.hongkongdisneyland.comTel:1830830

OpeningHrs:daily10am–8.15pmEntrancefee:charge

Transport:R11,R21,R22,R32,R44,KMTRDisneylandHongKong’slong-awaitedthemeparkopeneditsdoorstothepublicin2005,completewithits

ownMTRstation,twohotels,shops,restaurantsandthesortofamusementsthat

thrillatmore-or-lesssimilar(iflarger)venuesinParis,TokyoandtheUS.Thereareseventhemedareas.Formoredetailsformoreinformation,clickhere.

CheungChauCheungChau(“longisland”inCantonese)isthemostdenselypopulatedoftheoutlyingislands.Thecurvingwaterfrontpromenade,thepraya,isoneofthemostpleasantplacesinHongKong,especiallyaftersunsetwhenitsalfrescorestaurantsburstintolifeonlyyardsfromthefishingvesselsbobbingatanchor.HometoHongKong’sfirstandsofaronlyOlympicgoldmedallist(fromAtlanta1996),LeeLai-shan,CheungChauhasastrongwindsurfingtradition,centredonAfternoonBeach(KwunYanWan).

ResidentsofCheungChauIslandgoabouttheirday.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

CheungChauvillage6[map]ThevillageofCheungChau,neartheferrydock,isatangleofalleyways.Therearenovehiclesontheislandapartfromsmall,motorisedcartsandanamusingbonsai-sizedpolicecar,fireengineandambulance,aphenomenonthatgrantsanautomaticserenity.Headoffinanydirectionfromtheferryterminal

andyouwillpassavarietyofmodernandtraditionalshopsandnumerousseafoodrestaurants.

Ashortdistancetotheleftoftheferrydock,upthemainroad,isPakTaiTemple,builtin1783anddedicatedtothegodPakTai,protectoroffishermenandtheisland’ssaviourfromplagueduringthelate1700s.Inside,infrontofthealtar,arestatuesoftwogenerals,Thousand-LiEyeandFavourableWindEar,whoweresaidtobeabletoseeorhearanythingatanydistance.

TheBunFestivalEachyeartheislandhoststhefour-dayBunFestival,usuallyinMay.KnownasChingChiuinCantonese,it

originatedmanyyearsagoafterthediscoveryofanestofskeletons,believedtobetheremainsofpeoplekilledby

pirates.Theislandwassubsequentlyplaguedbyaseriesofmisfortunes;toplacatetherestlessspiritsofthevictims,

offeringsweremadeonceayear.Howpastrybunscameintothisstoryisanybody’sguess.

Tip

FerriesoperatefromtheOutlyingIslandsFerryPiersinCentraltoCheungChauevery30minutesdaily.ForinformationcallFirstFerry,tel:21318181.LammaferriesarerunbyHongKongandKowloonFerryLtd(hkkf),tel:28156063.Servicesrunat20–60-minuteintervalstoYungShueWan,lessfrequentlytoSokKwuWan.

Duringthefestivities,giantbambootowerscoveredwithediblebunsareerectedinthecourtyardofPakTaiTemple.Inthepast,thelocalmenwouldclimbupthetowerstoplucktheirluckybuns–thehigherthebunwas,themoreluckitwouldbring.Afteroneofthetowerscollapsedin1978,bringingbrokenbonesandbruisesratherthanluck,thefree-for-allwasstopped.Theritualwasrevivedin2005inamorecontrolledenvironment;nowonlypre-qualifiedcompetitorscanrisktheirnecks.

FishingboatsdottheseaaroundLammaIsland.

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Anotherattractionduringthefestivalarethecolourfullyclad“floatingchildren”,whoarehoisteduponstiltsandparadedthroughthecrowds.OtherfestiveeventsincludeperformancesofChineseoperaanddramaticliondances.

AroundCheungChauScatteredabouttheislandareseveraltemplesdedicatedtoTinHau,goddessofthesea.CheungChauwasoncethehauntofpirates,includingthenotoriousCheungPoTsai.Asontheotheroutlyingislands,“FamilyTrail”walksarewell-markedandleadtoCheungPoTsaiCaveaswellasotherscenicspots.

Therearealsosomeexcellentbeaches.ThemainstrandisTungWan7[map],ontheother,eastern,sideofthenarrowisthmusfromtheharbour.BelowtheWarwickHotelatthesouthernendofthesandsisa3,000-year-oldBronzeAgerockcarving.OthergoodbeachesareAfternoonBeach(KwunYamWan),justpasttherockcarving,andPakTsoattheisland’ssouthwesterntip.

Lamma

LammaThesecond-largestoftheoutlyingislandsisLamma.Richingrassyhillsandpicturesquebays,theruggedterrainmeansthatthereisonlyaverysmallareaoffarmland.ArchaeologistshaveassociatedLammawithsomeoftheearliestsettlementsintheregion.

Lammapower

IdentifyingLammafromadistanceiseasythankstothethreechimney-stacksneartheisland’snorthwesttip.Thiscoal-burningpowerstationprovidesalltheelectricityforHongKongIsland.

Inanodtoenvironmentalconcerns,HongKongElectricbuiltone46-metre(151ft)windturbineonthehillsideaboveYungShueWan.Givenitsbreezyopenlocation,LammaWinds–asitisofficiallycalled–isapleasantspottostrolluptoandtakeintheviews,particularlyifyoudon’thavetimetodotheSokKwuWanhike.FromYungShueWan,walktowardsHungShingYeforfiveminutesuntilyoureachacrossingwithawider“road”.Turnleftandfollowthisuphillfor15minutes.

Lammahasapopulationofaround6,000,mostlyconcentratedinandaroundthevillageofYungShueWan.Amongthemareasizeablenumberofexpatriates(over60nationalitieslivehere),whovaluethegreensurroundings,peaceandquiet(andthelowrents).DespitethefrequentferryservicetoCentral,only30minutesaway,thisroadlessislandremainsdistinctlyslow-paced–althoughitcangetcrowdedwithday-trippersatweekends.

YungShueWanYungShueWan(BanyanBay),atthenorthernendofLamma,isoneoftwoferrygatewaystotheisland.ThevillagehasagoodsupplyofrestaurantsservingJapanese,Thai,MediterraneanandIndiancuisine,aswellasseveralChineseseafoodestablishmentsonthewaterfront.

Onasidestreetjustpastthetown’smainintersectionisYungShueWan’s

100-yearoldTinHauTemple,guardedbyapairofstonelions.Inside,behindaredspiritstand(todeflectevilspirits),isthemainshrinewithimagesofthebeadedandveiledTinHau.

ThewalktoSokKwuWanItisonlyashortstrollfromYungShueWanoutintothecountryside.Themainpath,signpostedtoHungShingYeBeach,passesneatvegetableplotsandthree-storeybuildings(nothinghigherispermitted,withtheexceptionofthepowerstationchimneysthatloombehindthehilltotheright).Thebeachitselfisapleasantlycleanstretchof

sand.ThepaththenrisessteeplyintothehillsasitheadssouthtoSokKwuWan,

Lamma’sothermainvillage.Thispopularwalk,whichcanbecompletedinanunhurriedhourandahalf,treatshikerstoviewsoutacrossthesea,whileontheother(left)sidethevistaextendsacrosstheLammaChanneltothescatteredtowerblocksofHongKongIsland’ssouthernshore.

HungShingYeBeach.iStock

SokKwuWanliesontheeasternshoreofalongfjord-likeinletknownasPicnicBay,andisapopularweekendpleasure-junkmooring.Thebaybrims

withfloatingfishfarms,alltendedbyafleetofboatsofvariousshapesandsizes,andisoneofthemainsuppliersofHongKong’sseafoodrestaurants.Notsurprisingly,thevillagehasalongstringofseafoodrestaurants,beguilingintheeveningwithbrightlightingdisplaysandmarvellousaromas.EntrepreneurialvillagershavesetuptheLammaFisherfolk’sVillage(www.fisherfolks.com.hk;daily10.15am–6pm;chargeincludesshuttle)inared-sailedjunkinthebay,toteachvisitorsabouttraditionalfishingcommunitiesandtheircrafts.

PoToiPoToiisagroupofislandslocatedinthesouthernmostareaoftheSAR,southeastofStanley,andinhabitedbyonlyahandfulofpeople.ReachedbykaidofromAberdeenorStanley,themainisland,PoToi,ishometoalargerockresemblingasnail.Undertherockisacavewithcarvingsshapedbywindandrain.Theopen-airrestaurantsnearthepierinthesouthserveexcellentseafood.FordetailsontheislandsinMirsBayandtheeasternNewTerritories,formoreinformation,clickhere.

Insight:ThemeParks

HongKong’sDisneylandandlong-runninglocalcompetitorOceanParkmaketheSARagoodbet

forafamilyholiday.

WhenHongKongDisneylandopenedin2005,itseemedthatthewritingwasonthewallforitslocalcounterpart,OceanPark.Amajorrenovationandexpansionsoonputpaidtothatidea,andnowbothparksattractasimilarnumberofthrill-seekinglocalsandtourists.Infact,eachoffersaquitedifferentdayout–asthenamesuggests,anaquariumformsabigpartofOceanPark’sdraw,whileDisneylandhasitsownuniqueappealforsmallchildren.Bothhaverollercoastersandotherridesforthrill-seekers–althoughOceanParkhasmoreforolderkids.

Disneyland(formoreinformation,clickhereforopeningtimesandotherdetails)isdividedintoseventhemedareas(MainStreetUSA,Fantasyland,Adventureland,Tomorrowland,GrizzlyGulch,MysticPointandToyStoryLand).Ticketsgiveaccesstoall.AswithotherDisneylandparks,bepreparedtoqueue–it’sbesttoavoidweekendsandthehottestmonths:waitinginlinewithbored,over-heatedchildrenisnofunforanyone.

Aswellasitsimpressiveaquariums,OceanPark(formoreinformation,clickhere),onHongKongIsland’ssouthcoast,hasamile-longcablecar,variousthrillingrides,dolphinshowsandpandas.

ThereisanightlyfireworksdisplayoverDisneyland’sSleepingBeautyCastle,atthecentreofFantasyland,oneofthepark’sseventhemedareas.

Dreamstime

AnalternativethemeparkThoughunlikelytoeverchallengeitstwobigbrothersonvisitornumbers,HongKong’snewestpark(opened2009)isprobablythemostcoherentlythemedofthelot.TheenormouswoodenarkatthecentreofNoah’sArk(www.noahsark.com.hk;daily10am–6pm,charge)isclaimedtobethefirstbuilttotheexactmeasurementsgivenintheBible,solargethatitseeminglypropsupTsingMaBridge.Elsewherethereisapleasantparkwith67pairsoffull-sizedanimalsculptures,aSolarTower,whichexplainstheuniversefromthecreationist’sperspective,andanArkExpowhichspellsoutthedangersfacingtheenvironment.ThoughevangelicalChristianeducationisattheheartofthings,theGiantSwing,andvariousotherclimbingexhibitsprovidehigh-altitudekicksforthekids.It’slocatedonMaWanIsland,accessiblebyboatfromCentralorbusesfromTsingYi.

SãoPaulochurch.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Macau

Amajortourismdrivehasbroughtflashycasinosandrapidchangetothetinyterritory,buttheuniquePortugueseambiencestillsurvives.

MainAttractionsLargodoSenadoSquare

RuinsofSãoPauloMonteFort

MacauMuseumSantoAgostinhoChurch

A-MaTempleMacauTower

NAPEGuiaLighthouseColoaneVillage

IfeverthePearlRiverDeltahad“bling”,it’snow,andnowhereisthismoreobviousthaninMacau.EstablishedbythePortuguesein1557asthefirstEuropeancolonyonChina’sshore,Macauwasformuchofrecenthistoryasleepyoutpost,playingsecondfiddletoitshigh-profileneighbour.ThingshavechangedquicklysinceitreturnedtoChinain1999–becoming,likeHongKong,aSpecialAdministrativeRegionofthePeople’sRepublic.

GrandLisboaHotel.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

ThesedaysMacauhasanewleaseoflifeasthe“leisurecapitalofAsia”.CashinginonthenewwealthinChina,andtheChineseloveofgambling,whatwasuntilrecentlyaratherlow-keycasinoscenehasexplodedintoabrash,gaudy,full-scalecelebrationofgreedwhichhasusurpedeventhemightyLasVegas.AhugereclamationprojecthasmergedtheislandsofColoaneandTaipatoformanewentertainmentareaofspectacularthemedcasinosandluxuryhotels.Nowadaysmorethan2.4millionvisitorsamonthpourinbyferryfromHongKongoroverthelandborder,themajorityofthemmakingabeelinefortheBaccarattables.

SignpostsinLargodoSenadoSquare.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Yetamidstallthecrowdsandpizzazz,sizeableareasofoldMacausurvive–gracefuloldbuildingsredolentofsouthernEurope,overlookingcobbledstreetsshadedbyancientbanyantrees.Ifit’sapeaceful“MediterraneaninChina”experienceyouareafter,headovertothemainsquareofeitherTaipaorColoanevillageforlunch.

Fact

Thereisdisagreementoverthecorrectspelling:MacauorMacao?Thelatterformismakingsomethingofacomeback,andtheburgeoningcasinoindustryseemstopreferit.Mostofficialsources,aswellaslocalsandwesterners,continuetouse“Macau”,however.Toaddtotheconfusion,itisknownasAomeninthepinyinspellingofMandarinChinese.

Macau’sHistoricCentreIntheyearsleadinguptothe1999handover,thePortuguese(whoin2014stillaccountedforaround2percentoftheresidentpopulation)setaboutensuringthatMacau’sculturalheritage–andtheirinfluence–wouldbepreserved.Buildingswererenovated,squaresre-cobbled,andpastelpaintsoncemorebrightenedupthegreystreets.

The25sitesthatnowcomprisetheHistoricCentreofMacauwereaddedtoUnesco’sWorldHeritagelistin2005,acknowledgingtheirimportanceastheoldestandmostintactexampleofEuropeanarchitectureonChinesesoilandasasymbolofculturalexchangebetweenEastandWest.SitesincludeChinesetemples,Portuguesechurches,scenicsquaresandthefirstlighthouseinChina.Bestexploredonfoot,therearetwowell-signpostedmainroutes,whicharefairlyshady,andthereareenoughbuildingsopentothepublictoproviderespiteonahumidday.

LargodoSenadoSquare1[map]ThebestplacetostartanyforayintoOldMacauistheLargodoSenado(SenateSquare),theoldcity’smainsquare,coveringsome3,700sqmetres(4,425sqyds),whichhasbeenrepavedwithaboldPortuguesewave-patternmosaic.Ahandytouristinformationcentreissituatedrightonthesquare(daily9am–6pm).

LargodoSenadoSquareispavedwithdistinctivePortuguesemosaics.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Acrossthemainroad(AlmeidaRibeiro)istheLealSenado2[map](LoyalSenate;Tue–Sun9am–9pm),regardedbymostasthebestexampleofPortuguesearchitectureinMacau.ItnowhousestheInstituteofCivilandMunicipalAffairs.TheLealSenadowasdedicatedin1784,anditsfaçadecompletedin1876.Thetitle“Loyal”wasbestowedonMacau’sSenatein1809

byPortugueseKingJohnVI,whowasPrinceRegentatthetime,asarewardforcontinuingtoflythePortugueseflagwhentheSpanishmonarchytookoverthePortuguesethroneinthe17thcentury.Aninscribedtablethere,datingfrom1654,grantsMacauitssacredtitle:“CityoftheNameofGod,Macau,ThereisNoneMoreLoyal”.Headupthestaircasetothefinewrought-irondoorsandbeyondtoasmallcourtyardwithazulejostiles.Upmorestairs,thelibrary(Mon–Fri1–7pm)andcouncilchambershowfineexamplesofOldWorldwoodwork.Halftheofficesonthegroundfloorhavebeenconvertedintoagallerythatisusedforspecialexhibitions(Tue–Sun9am–9pm).

Tip

Macauhasseveraltouristinformationoffices:thecentralofficeisatLargodoSenado,opendaily9am–6pm,tel:(853)83971120.TheofficeattheMacauFerryTerminalisopendaily9am–10pm,tel:(853)28726416.Therearekiosksatthebordergate(daily9.15am–6pm)andtheairport(daily9am–1.30pm,2.15–7.30pm,8.15–10pm).

EcclesiasticaltreasuresBackonLargodoSenadosquare,oppositethetouristoffice,isthewhitechurchofSantaCasadaMisericórdia3[map](HolyHouseofMercy),withitssmallmuseumofreligiousartefacts(Tue–Sun10am–1pm,2.30–5.30pm).Atthenorthernendofthesquareisthebutter-colouredSãoDomingos4[map](StDominic’s),oneoftheoldestofMacau’schurches.Itdatesfromthe17thcentury,buttheSpanishDominicansbuiltachapelandconventonthissiteasearlyas1588.AtthebackistheMuseumofSacredArt(daily10am–6pm).

TakeashortwalkupatravessatotheSé5[map](MacauCathedral;daily7.30am–6.30pm),motherchurchoftheMacaudioceseafter1850,whichatthetimeincludedallofChina,JapanandKorea.Thestained-glasswindowsarethemainattractionofthisratherplainbuilding.

LealSenadobuilding.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

SãoPaulo6[map]FromSãoDomingosfollowthepavementnorthalongoneofMacau’smainshoppingstreetsbeforeturninguphilltotheruinsofSãoPaulo(StPaul’s;daily9am–6pm).Itstoweringfaçadeandimpressivegrandstaircasearethemost

strikingofallMacau’schurches.Unfortunately,thesitemusthavebadfengshui.Thefirstchurchonthesitewasdestroyedbyfirein1601.Itwasrebuilt,butin1835anotherinfernosweptthroughthechurch,destroyingtheadjacentcollegeandalibraryreputedtobethebesteastofIstanbul.Theclassicalfaçade–craftedbyJapaneseChristianswhohadfledpersecutioninNagasaki–survived.In1904,effortsweremadetorebuildthechurch,butlittleprogresswasmade.Still,todaythegrandfaçadeofSãoPauloremainsMacau’smostenduringicon.

FortalezadoMonte7[map]Address:PracetadoMuseudeMacau

Tel:(853)28357911OpeningHrs:daily7am–7pm

EntranceFee:free

OverlookingthefaçadeofSãoPauloarethemassivestonewallsofthefort(usuallycalledMonteFort),builtintheearly1600s.WhenDutchshipsattackedandinvadedMacauin1622,thehalf-completedfortresswasdefendedby150clericsandAfricanslaves.AluckycannonshotbyanItalianJesuit,GeronimoRhu,hitthepowdermagazineoftheDutchfleet’sflagshipandsavedthecity.Accessisfree,andtherearegreatviewsoverthecityfromthecannon-linedramparts.

TheMacauMuseum(www.macaumuseum.gov.mo;Tue–Sun10am–6pm;freeon15thofeverymonth)wasopenedonthesiteofthefortressin1998.Threefloorsoflivelyandwell-captionedexhibitschartthehistoryoftheenclaveanditscitizens,fromitsfirstsettlementthroughtothehandovertotheChinese.

BrightlycolouredPortuguese-stylehouse.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

CamõesGrotto&Garden8[map]A15-minutestrolltothewestofthefortwilltakeyoutothepicturesqueCamõesGarden(daily6am–10pm),whereLuísdeCamões,thecelebratedPortuguesesoldier-poet,issaidtohavecomposedpartofthenationalepic,OsLusiadas(TheLusiads).AbronzebustofCamõesrestsinthegarden’sgrotto.AbovethegrottoisanobservatorybuiltbyaFrenchexplorer,CountdeLaPérouse.ThegardenfeaturesinmanypaintingsbyGeorgeChinnery,themostfamous19th-century“ChinaCoast”artist,whoisburiedinthenearbyOldProtestantCemetery,whichisafascinatinghistoricalsnapshotoftheearly

foreigncommunityhere.

Bythewallsofthefort.GlynGenin/ApaPublications

NearbyCasaGarden(Mon–Fri9.30am–6pm)isan18th-centuryhouseandgardenthatwashometoEastIndiaCompanyofficialsandisnowaculturalinstitute.

SouthofLargodoSenadoMostofMacau’sUnesco-listedsiteslietothesouthofLargodoSenado,acrossAvenidadeAlmeidaRibeiro,inastringallthewaytothesoutherntipofthepeninsula.ThefirstoftheseisSantoAgostinho9[map](StAugustine;closeduntilfurthernotice),anattractivebaroque-stylechurchthatisthelargestintheregion.SpanishAugustiniansfoundedachurchherein1586,butthepresentstructuredatesfrom1814,anditsornatefaçadefrom1875.

Acrossthesquare(LargodeSantoAgostinho)andalsoontheUnescolististheSirRobertHotungLibrary(www.library.gov.mo;Mon–Sat10am–7pm,Sun11am–7pm),datingfrom1894,andthebeautifullyrestoredDomPedroVTheatre)[map].Builtin1860,thiswasthefirstwestern-styletheatreinChina,andoftenopensforconcertsandperformancesduringMacau’smanyartsfestivals.

Anothervenerablebuildingonthesquare(butaccessedfromRuadoSeminarioaroundthecorner)isStJoseph’sSeminary,dedicatedin1728whenitssolepurposewastoestablishJesuitmissionsinChina–ataskitperformedwithgusto.Todayitsvasthalls,classroomsandlivingquartershavemostlydisappeared,butitsarchitectureandsculpturesareworthviewing,andthebeautifulchapelisopentothepublic.ThestatueswithinweresalvagedfromSãoPauloin1835.

Alittlefurthersouth,theimposingpale-yellowchurchofSãoLourenço@[map](StLawrence’s;daily7am–9pm)israisedupabovestreetlevelandsurroundedbyasmallgarden.Thechurchwasoriginallybuiltinthe1560s,andmostfamiliesofPortuguesesailorsusedtogatheronthefrontstepsofthechurchtoprayandwaitfortheirreturn,soitwasknowninCantoneseasFengShunTang(HalloftheSoothingWinds).Theelegantchurchwasmostrecentlyrebuiltin1846.Thegranddoublestaircaseleadingupfromthestreet,irongates,towersandcrystalchandeliersareEuropean,buttheroofismadeofChinesetiles.

SãoLourençochurch.

iStock

ThesoutherntipTakeadetourupColinadaPenha£[map](PenhaHill)forsweepingviewsandtovisittheChapelofOurLadyofPenha,datingbackto1622butlargelyrebuiltin1837.WhilenotlistedasaUnescosite,thechapelandBishop’sPalacenextdoorwereoncethecentresofRomanCatholicmissionaryworkintheregion.

ContinuingontheUnescoWorldHeritageroute,therearemoreexamplesoftheinfluenceofdifferentculturesonarchitecturalstyles.ThepeacefulpiazzaofLargodoLilaumarksoneoftheearliestPortugueseresidentialareas.Nearby,theCasadaMandarin(Mandarin’sHouse)onAntoniodeSilvaLaneisatraditionalChinesecourtyard-styleresidence,datingbackto1881.Furthersouth,theMoorishBarracks(daily9am–6pm)werebuiltin1874tohousepolicemenrecruitedfromanotherPortugueseenclave,Goa.

TinHauTempleMingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Shop

Withintwominutes’walkoftheA-MaTemplethereareahandfuloflong-establishedPortugueserestaurantsonRuaAlmiranteSergioPortoInterior,includingALorchaandRestaurantLittoral.

A-MaTempleandtheMaritimeMuseumTheA-MaTemple$[map](TemplodaDeusaA-Ma;daily7am–6pm)squatsbeneathBarraHill,attheentrancetoMacau’sInnerHarbour.Itistheoldesttempleintheterritory,saidtodateback600yearstotheMingdynasty.Itwascertainlytherein1557,whenMacauwascededtoPortugal.TheoriginaltempleisbelievedtohavebeenerectedbyfishermenfromsoutheastChinaanddedicatedtoTinHau,thepatrongoddessoffishermenknownasA-MainMacau.ItwasthencalledMaKokMiu(MaPointTemple).TheChinesenamedtheareaA-Ma-Gao,ortheBayofA-Ma.Theoldestsurvivingpartofthistempleisalowerpaviliontotherightofitsentrance.Thereisacolouredbas-reliefstonecarvingheresaidtobearenderingofaChinesejunkthatcarriedthegoddessA-MafromFujianprovincethroughtyphoon-ravagedseastoMacau,whereshewalkedtothetopofBarraHillandascendedtoheaven.

WorshipattheA-MaTemple.AlexHavret/ApaPublications

InfrontofthetempleistheinterestingMaritimeMuseum%[map](www.museumaritimo.gov.mo;Wed–Mon10am–5.30pm;half-priceonSun),withdisplaystracingthehistoryofshippingintheSouthChinaSea.

NorthoftheA-MaTemple,Macau’srun-downOPortoInterior(InnerHarbourArea)ishopingtoshareintheboomtownsuccessofelsewhereinMacau,withitsownVegas-stylecasino.The2.3-hectare(5.75-acre)Ponte16casinoandentertainmentresortincludesaSofitelhotel.FacingZhuhai–andusingaclassicChineseformulation–Ponte16boaststhatithas“oneriver,twobanks”sceneryandEuropean-Chinesearchitecture.

Tothesouth,theimpressivewallsoftheoldFortalezadaBarra(FortressofBarra)risefarabovetheavenueguardingtheentrancetotheInnerHarbour.

NewMacauMuchofwhatcanbetermedNewMacauhasbeenbuiltonreclaimedlandtothesouthandeastofthenaturalpeninsula,anareaknownastheNAPE,whichformsagridofcasino-andhotel-linedstreetsclosetotheHongKongFerryTerminal.Furthersouth,beyondNamVanLakeanditscolourful,iferratic,“cyberneticfountain”,liesMacau’smostprominenttouristattraction–the338-metre(1,110ft)MacauTower^[map].Takethelifttotheobservationdeck(www.macautower.com.mo;Mon–Fri10am–9pm,Sat–Sunfrom9am)for360-degreeviewsofMacau,andlookthroughitsglassfloors(notrecommendedforvertigosufferers).Thrill-seekerscan“skywalk”aroundtheedgeofthehandrail-freeplatform,climballthewaytothetopofthemast,orleapoffinacontrolledbungeejump.

MacauTowerandtheMacau–TaipaBridgeatnight.

iStock

Fromthetowerit’seasytoseeMacau’schangingshapeandothernewlandmarks.Theorange-and-whiteHotelLisboathatwasoncethemainlandmarknowlooksquaintlyretroandisdwarfedbynewdevelopments,includingthegarish44-storeyGrandLisboahotelandcasinothatismodelledonalotusrootbutalsoresemblesagiantmirror-coveredturnip.

TheNAPEandFisherman’sWharfTothesouthoftheAvenidadaAmizadeliestheNAPE(NovosAterrosdoPortoExterior),arectangleofreclaimedlandthatisoneofthemostup-and-comingareasinMacau.Theareaishometosometypicallyopulent21st-centuryMacaudevelopments–thecopper-colouredWynnMacau,thegold-and-silverMGMGrand,the34-storeyStarWorldCasinoandthegoldenSandsMacau,symbolisingthenewbreedofVegas-stylegamblingpalacesforwhichMacauisbecomingfamous.Therearealsoalargenumberofrestaurantsandbarsintheimmediatevicinity.

Fisherman’sWharf.GlynGenin/ApaPublications

Thestate-of-the-artMacauCulturalCentre&[map](www.ccm.gov.mo)islocatedatthejunctionofAvenidaManSingHaiandAvenidaDrSunYat-sen,andhastwoauditoriathathostaregularprogrammeofperformancesandshows.Nextdoor,thespaciousgalleriesoftheMacauMuseumofArt(www.mam.gov.mo;Tue–Sun10am–6.30pm)arespreadoverfivefloorsandhostmajorinternationalexhibitions.Thereisapermanentcollectionofover3,000worksofShiwanceramics,calligraphyandartfromMacauandChina.

RuaDoCunha,anarrowpedestrianstreetinTaipa.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TowardstheHongKongFerryTerminalyou’llfindtheentranceoftheüber-kitschFisherman’sWharfentertainmentarea*[map](daily;10am–10pm;freeadmissionbutchargeforrides).Thelargecomplexcontainstheme-parkrides,hotels,acasino,anexhibitioncentre,shopsanddozensofrestaurantsdishingupfoodfromallovertheworld.

Tip

Youmustbeover18toenteracasinoinMacau,andthereisadresscodeofsorts–menmaynotwearsleevelessT-shirtsorshorts,whilewomenareallowedtodoso.Sandalsarenotnormallyallowed,andflip-flopsareadefiniteno-no.Takingphotographsinsidethegamingareaisstrictlyforbidden.

NorthernMacauBetweenBarraandtheborderwithGuangdong,thenorthernendofMacauispredominantlynondescriptresidentialandsemi-industrialblocks.AsinHongKong,mostoftheonce-flourishinggarmentandtextilebusinesseshavemovedovertheborder.By2020,Macau’sLightRailnetworkwilllooparoundhere,connectingthebordergatewiththedowntownarea,theairportandCotai.

BordergatesAtthemodernbordergatebetweentheSpecialAdministrativeRegionandZhuhaiovertheroadinmainlandChina,aparkhasbeencreatedaroundtheformergateway,PortasdoCerco([map],whichwasbuiltin1870andisinscribedwithaquotefromPortuguesepoetCamões:“Honouryourcountry,foryourcountryiswatchingyou”.Thecrossingisopenfrom7amtomidnight,andthecasinoshuttlebuseslineuptomeetthepuntersarrivingfromthemainlandbyland.

Coloane’sseafrontpromenade.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

Around500metres/ydstothesouthistheFortressofMong-Ha,onthehillofColinadeMong-Ha,constructedtoprovideadefencevantagetoguardthePortasdoCerco.Builtin1849,thefort’sbarracksnowholdthe24-roomPousadadaMong-HaandMacau’sInstituteofTourismStudies,whosestudentsnowstaffthesmallhotelandrestaurant.

PortuguesemosaicfloortilinginColoane.MingTang-Evans/ApaPublications

TemplesandmemorialsNearthesouthernfootofColinadeMong-HasitsKunIamTemple,[map],dedicatedtoGuanyin,theBuddhistgoddessofmercy,anddatingbackto1627.ThefirstSino-AmericanTreatywassignedherein1844byKiYing,China’sviceroyinGuangzhou,andCalebCushing,whowastheUnitedStates’“CommissionerandEnvoyExtraordinaryandMinisterPlenipotentiary”toChina.

MostorganisedtoursmakeaquickvisittotheDrSunYat-senMemorialHouse⁄[map](Wed–Mon10am–5pm).ThememorialisclosetotheKiangVuHospitalwhereSunpractisedmedicineasoneofthefirstWestern-trainedChinesedoctorsinthisarea,beforehebecameknownasthefatherofmodernChina.

NearbyaretheSuzhou-styleLouLimIocGardens(daily6am–9pm),withlotusponds,bridgesandornamentalmountains,resemblingaclassicallandscapepainting.

Macau’shighestpointTheColinadaGuia,thehighestpointinMacau,risestotheeastoftheSunYat-senHouseandishometotheGuiaFortressandLighthouse¤[map](daily9am–6pm),oneofMacau’sclassiclandmarks–albeitonethatisbecominghardertospotamidallthenewskyscrapers.PartoftheHistoricCentreofMacau,this17th-centuryWestern-stylelighthouse–theoldestontheChinesecoast–onceguardedthecoastalapproaches.Besidestheviews,thereisasmallartgallery.AcablecarlinksthehilltopwithasmalllocalparkandaviaryatFloraGardenbelow(6am–8.30pm).

EachNovember,thestreetsofMacauaretakenoverbytheMacauFormula3GrandPrixandtheMacauMotorcycleGrandPrix.Learnmoreaboutthe“GuiaRace”historyoftheseexcitingroadracesattheGrandPrixMuseum‹[map](Wed–Mon10am–6pm)at431RuadeLuisGongazagaGomesinthebasementoftheTourismActivitiesCentre.Nextdoor,theWineMuseum(Wed–Mon10am–6pm;charge)tellsthestoryofPortuguesewines.

TaipaandColoaneThe“other”MacauisnotonthepeninsulathatisgenerallyregardedasMacau,but

consistsofthetwooutlyingislandsofTaipaandColoane–whicharenowreallyoneisland,joinedtogetherbyCotai–620hectares(1,550acres)ofreclaimedland,hometoTheVenetiancasino.

TheVenetian,vastinscaleandambition.

LasVegasSandsCorp

Macau’scasinos

Macau’smega-casinospackinthepuntersandpullinaroundsixtimesmorecashperyearthantheLasVegasstrip.AsoneForbeswriterputit,Macauisnowofficially“Vegasonsteroids.”

Macau’spremierentertainmentrattlestothesoundofaspinningrouletteballandmovesatthespeedofacroupiershuffle.Gambling–orgaming,astheindustrywouldhaveit–seemstohavebecomeMacau’sentireraisond’être,lighteningthepocketsoftheChineseandHongKongmassesandmakingaluckyfew–mainlycorporateexecutivesandshareholders–veryrichindeed.Atpresent,the42(andcounting)casinosfallintotwodistinctgroups.ThefirstisepitomisedbytheoriginalLisboa,ownedbygazillionaireStanleyHo,whoformanyyearsgrew(metaphorically)fatonagamingmonopoly.Theseoldercasinosarecomparativelylow-rent,withmillinghordescrowdingaroundthetablesandsnatchingatthehandlesofthefruitmachines,knownasHungryTigersintheseparts.

Thesecondgroupisverydifferent.In2002itwasfinallyagreedtoopentheindustryuptootherplayersfromoutsidetheregion.SheldsonAdelson’sLasVegasSandswasthefirsttoenterthefray,buildingtheSandsMacau,agildededificeontheMacaupeninsula.TheGreekMythologyCasinogaveatotallynewfacetothelow-keyislandofTaipa,andAmericanmogulSteveWynnsoonfollowedsuitandopenedhisfirstAsiancasino,WynnMacau’s,astone’sthrowfromHo’snewventure,thefantasticallyluridGrandLisboa,anddaughterPatsy’sjointventurewithVegas,theMGMGrandMacau.

ThestripTothesouth,meanwhile,developmentcontinuesonreclaimedlandthatlinkstheislandsofTaipaandColoane.Cotai,asithasbeennamed,isalreadyhometothespectacularlyvastVenetianMacauResortwhich,with3,400slotmachinesand800gamingtables,hasthelargestcasino.The“CotaiStrip”isnowatrademarkoftheVenetian’sowner,LasVegasSands,whichalsoownsthethreehotelsoftheSandsCotaiCentraldevelopment,theConrad,HolidayInnandthe3,896-roomSheratonCotaiCentral.However,“thestrip”isonlypartofCotai;othermegadevelopmentsincludeTheCityofDreams,ajoint-venturebetweenAustralia’sgaminggiantCrownandHo’ssonLawrence,andtheUS$3billionGalaxyWorldResort,hometothreehotelsand,ofcourse,anothermassivecasino.

Eventhefinancialcrisisdidn’tstopChina’snewlyflushpuntersstreamingin;onthecontrary,it’smorethanlikelythatsomeofBeijing’smassive“stimulus”packagewassloshedacrosstheBaccarattable.Thecrisesendedupmarkingapossiblypermanentchangingofthegamblingguard.In2009theentirestateofNevada(248casinos)tookUS$847.1million,adroponthepreviousyear,whiletinyMacau(34casinosatthetime)claimedUS$1.42billion,snatchingthetitleoftheworld’sNo.1gamblingdestination.Revenuescontinuetosurgeatadizzyingrate,andaslongas“gaming”remainsillegalonthemainland,it’sunlikelytolosethatmantle.

ThemassgamingfloorinStarworldcasino.

Starworld

TaipaTaipa›[map]wasoncethecentreforjunk-buildingandfirecrackermanufacture,andintheearly1700sbecamethebusycentreforWesterntradewithChinawhenanimperialedictbannedEnglishandFrenchshipsfromGuangzhou,insistingtheymooratTaipainstead.

Todayithasitsshareofnewcasinos,includingthehilariousGreekMythologyCasinocompletewithRomancenturions,andthemoresophisticatedAltiraMacau.BetscanbeplacedonhorsesattheMacauJockeyClubRacecourse,whichhasweeklymeetingsthroughouttheyearoneitherFridaynightsorSaturdayorSundayafternoons,andoccasionallyboth.

Tip

IfyouareheadingstraighttotheCotaistripcasinos(orColoaneorTaipa)fromHongKong,considertakingLasVegasSands’CotaiJetServicetoavoidtediousimmigrationqueuesandtrafficjams.TheyrunapproximatelyeveryhalfhourbetweentheMacauFerryTerminalandtheTaipaFerryTerminal(nearMacauairport).Formoreinformationformoreinformation,clickhere.

InTaipaVillagelocalhistoryanddevelopmentsareexplainedinthethree-storeymint-greenMuseumofTaipaandColoaneHistory(Tue–Sun10am–6pm).HeadeastalongRuaCorreiadaSilvaandexplorethenarrowstreetsaroundthevillagesquare,whereyouwillfindmanygoodrestaurants.

OverlookingthemainsquareisOurLadyofCarmel,aneoclassicalchurchbuiltin1885.Nearby,ontheAvenidadaPraia,istheTaipaHousesMuseum(Tue–Sun10am–7pm),fivebeautifullyrestoredhouses,eachofwhichnowfunctionsasamuseum:theMacaneseHouse,HouseoftheIslands,HouseofthePortugalRegions,ExhibitionGalleryandHouseforReception.Fromthisolde-worldelocationyoucangazeacrossthewatertotheamazingCityofDreamsandthevastVenetianMacao-Resort-Hotel:nowhereisthecontrastbetweennewandoldMacaumorestriking.

Kids

Withitsfakesky,canalsandgondalas,mostchildrenwillenjoyexploringtheVenetian.Thereareregularchild-friendlyexhibitionsandeventssuchasIceWorld,wheretheattractionsincludeDreamworkscharactersrenderedinice.Acrosstheroad,CityofDreamshasspecialeffectsattheimmersiveBubbletheatreandFrancoDragone’sTheHouseofDancingWatershow.Thereisalsohasanenormousindoorplayareafortheunder-12s.

ColoaneColoanefi[map]isalmosttwiceasbigasTaipa,andwhatwasoncethelasthidingplaceforpiratesisnowagreenretreatfromtheSAR’sbustle,casinosandconstructionwithbeaches,countryparksandacharmingvillagetoexplore.

PeacefulColoaneVillageliesinthesouthwestoftheisland.TheChapelofStFrancisXavier,builtin1928,commemoratesthesuccessfulrecaptureofagroupofchildrenkidnappedbypiratesin1910.ThechapellooksontoColoane’stinyPortuguese-stylevillagesquare,whichcomesalivewithrestauranttablesandfestivitiesatweekendsandduringholidays.

Fromthesquareyoucanexplorethenarrowlanesthathideafewsmallfurnitureshopsandcafés.ItallmakesColoaneaneasyplacetospendhalfadayexploring–andaneveneasierplacetositwithsomePortuguesewineandMacanesefoodandwatchtheworldgobywhileothersloseandwinfortunesatthegamingtablesafewmilesaway.

Furthersouth,bytheprettybayatCheocVan,there’sanopen-airpoolnexttothewhitesandybeach.ThePousadadaColoaneoverlooksthebay,andfromthispleasantfamily-runhotelandrestaurantyoucanfollowawell-signpostedtrailfor45-minutesuptotheisland’speakandtheA-MaCulturalVillage(www.a-ma.org.mo;daily8am–6pm).Onthelastpartofyourclimb,youwillhearpipedmusiccomingfromspeakershiddeninthebushesshortlybeforebeingrewardedbythesightofavast,Qing-dynasty-stylecomplexcompletewithtemples,abelltower,drumtower,theTianHouPalaceandamuseum.The170-metre(560ft)peakismarkedbyanimpressive20-metre(65ft)statueofthegoddessA-Ma,whichcanbeseenfromthesea.ShuttlebusesrunbetweenthecomplexandtheFaçadeatEstradadeSeacPaiVanevery30minutes.

Coloane’sotherhotelisthegranderWestinResortMacau,builtintothehillsideoverlookingHacSa(blacksands)Beach.TheMacauGolfandCountryClub’s18holesbeginonthehotel’s“roof”.Closetothebeachistheever-popularFernando’srestaurantwherelunchesrarelyfinishbeforedusk.

Louhudistrict’sdazzlingnightskyline.

GettyImages

ShenzhenandthePearlRiverDelta

JustacrosstheChinaborder,theswarmingcityofShenzhenhasgraduatedfrombeingHongKong’ssweatshopandisrapidlytakingonitsneighbour’s

airofglitzandsophistication.Somenotablemainlandcharacteristicsremainthough.

MainAttractionsLoWuCommercialCityWindowoftheWorld

SplendidChinaOpiumWarMuseum,HumenZuMiaoTemple,Foshan

Shiwan(ceramics)

Thepastthreedecades’stupendousgrowthinthePearlRiverDelta(PRD)–withtheSpecialEconomicZone(SEZ)ofShenzhenattheforefront–hasbeenakeypartofChina’srecenttransformation.Occupyingaround40,000sqkm(15,500sqmiles),thedeltawasoncetotallyconsumedbymanufacturing,contributingaround30percentofChina’stotalexports.ThesenumbersarenowonthedeclineasfactoriesrelocateinlandandtootherpartsofSoutheastAsia.Thereareupsidesintermsofpollution–whilesometimesbad,theairtendstobebetterherethaninBeijingorShanghai–andthewealthgeneratedduringtheboomyearshasmadetheregionamongthemostmodernanddevelopedpartsofChina.

PedaloesinLizhiPark,overlookedbytheenormousKK100skyscraper.

AWLImages

TheDelta’stransfigurationfrompaddyfieldstostocksandsharesdeals,describedbyTheEconomistmagazineas“sohugeastotransformglobaltradingpatternsandinvestmentflows”,beganinearnestin1992.ThethenparamountleaderDengXiaopingtouredChina’ssouthernprovinces,passingonthemessagethattogetrichwasglorious.SEZswithlooserregulationsandtaxationstartedupinShenzhenandZhuhaishortlyafter.InvestorsfromTaiwanandHongKonghurtledin,puttingtheirinternationalmarketingsavvytoprimeuse,tobeswiftlyimitatedbytheirmainlandcounterparts.

ThealwaysbustlingDonmengPedestrianStreet.

iStock

ThePRDstillproducesalargeproportionoftheworld’selectronics,motorparts,shoes,toys,furniture,textiles,clocks,watches,lightingandceramics.Therearearound200,000factorieshere,approximatelyhalfofwhichareownedbyHongKongcompanieswhoseworkerslargelyoriginatefromthelessindustrialisedinlandareasofChina.Thesemigrantworkerstypicallyliveindormitoriesonsiteatfactories,andsendmoneybacktotheirfamiliesathome.

DongmenPedestrianStreetcelebratesChineseNewYear.

Dreamstime

ShenzhenandenvironsShenzhen1[map],slapbangnexttotheHongKongborder,wasalwaysgoingtodowell.ThisisthenewfaceofthePRC,wherecapitalismhasbeengivenprettymuchafreehandafterdecadesofcommunism.NowadaysitsMissionHillsGolfClub,whichembracesadozen18-holechampionshipcourses(designedwithhelpfromthelikesofJackNicklaus,NickFaldoandVijaySingh)standsintheGuinnessWorldRecordsastheworld’slargest.ShunHingSquare,some384metres(1,260ft)tall,isthe21st-highestbuildingintheworld.Yetinthelate1970s,therewaslittlehereexceptforafarmingcommunityandadingybordertown.

TheriseandriseofShenzhen

ThecreationofSpecialEconomicZones(SEZs)duringthe1980s,withtheirmodernandrelaxedbusinessandtaxregulations,kick-startedthetransformationofthePearlRiverDelta,andnowherewasthismorepronouncedthaninShenzhen.Pell-mell,thefactoriesandskyscrapersgrewalmostovernight,immigrantsfromalloverChinapouredintotheburgeoningcitytomaketheirfortunes,highwayswererolledout,airportsandrailwaysconstructed,andarablelandsmotheredinconcrete.Thefewhundredpeasantswhoonceekedoutalivingheredispersedinaphenomenonthatwastobecomeabywordforfastliving,cheapshoppingandano-holds-barredracetothefuture.

FourdecadeslaterandShenzhenisoneoftherichestcitiesinChina.Percapitaincomeisaroundeighttimesthenationalaverage,andthepopulationhasrisenfrom700,000to11millionin25years.Between1992and2016,thecity’sGDPincreasedmorethanthirty-fold,fromRmb32billionto1.95trillion.Ofcourse,therelentlessgrowthhasitsdownside.Asinequalityrises,sodoescrime:youarearoundninetimesaslikelytobemuggedinShenzhenasinShanghai,andtheairpollutioncanbechoking.

ShenzhenBao’anInternationalAirportliestothewestofthecityandhasgoodferryandcoachlinkstoHongKong.Therehasbeentalkofonedaycreatinga“mega-metropolis”comprisingHongKongandShenzhen,butfornowtherearesixlandbordersbetweenthetwo;mostvisitorsfromHongKongtaketheMTRtoeitherLoWu,thebusiestbordercrossingpoint,orLokMaChau,andwalkacrosstoentermainlandChina.BothcrossingslinkdirectlyintotheShenzhenmetronetwork.

ReplicaoftheEiffelTowerintheWindowoftheWorldPark.

Dreamstime

Shenzhenoffersa(ratherunrepresentative)glimpseofthePeople’sRepublictoWesternersvisitingHongKong,whileHongKongersthemselvesvisitinsearchofcheaperdining,nightlifeandrecreation,nottomentiontheshoppingbargainsattheemporiawherethegoodsare“inspiredby”majorfashioncompanieslikePradaandChanel.

WhattodoinShenzhenOneofthemostextensiveretailromperroomsistheexhaustingLoWuCommercialCityA[map](LuoHuinpinyin),ontherightafteryouexitthecustomshall.Jewellery,clothes,leathergoods,knick-knacksandacornucopiaofothermerchandisearepackedoneatoptheotherhere–althoughshopssellingthesamesortofitemstendtoclustertogether.Thecardinalruleistobargainfiercely.Offerlessthanathirdoftheaskingpriceandsettlefornomorethanhalf.StallholderswillcalculatethepriceinRenminbiorHKdollars,butyouwillgetabetterdealifyouusetheformer.

Shenzhen’sothermainshoppingareasareDongmenB[map],withawiderangeofshopsandsomegoodtailors,andatHuaqiangLuC[map],whereelectronicsgoodsstorescanbefound.ThereislittledifferenceinpricecomparedtoHongKongasfarasmainstreamelectronicsbrandsareconcerned:

thebargainslieingoodsmanufacturedforthedomesticmarket,althoughthepriceisafairindicationofthequalityandlifeexpectancyofanyitem.

Evenhalfaday’sshoppinginShenzhenislikelytotakeitoutofyou,sotaketimeouttoenjoysomeinexpensivegrooming.LoWuCommercialCentrehasdozensoflow-keynailbarsandwell-priced–ifatadspartan–massageparloursandbeautysalons.

PeoplehangwishesonthetreeforgoodluckintheFoshanAncestralTemple.

Dreamstime

IfShenzhenhasaWildWestvibeduringthedaytime,waituntiltheevenings.Internationalhotelsareasafebetunlessyouarepartyingwithlocals.ThemainbarareasareInternationalBarStreetinFutianandShekouD[map],amoreexpat-friendlyresidentialarea.

ChineseNewYearParadeintheFolkCultureVillage,Shenzhen.

Dreamstime

ThethemeparksIt’stemptingtoregardShenzhenasoneenormouswackythemepark,andthere’scertainlynoshortageoftherealthing.ThethreemainparksareclusteredtogetherintheNanshanDistrict,about12km(8miles)westofthedowntownarea.Therearecombinationticketsavailableifyouwishtoseemorethanonepark.WindowoftheWorld2[map](daily9am–10pm)showcasesfacsimilesofeverythingfromThaipalacesandJapaneseteahousestoEuropeanmonuments–nonemorespectacularthantheimpressivelylargescalemodeloftheEiffelTower.

Inarathersimilarvein,SplendidChina3[map](daily10am–6pm)packsthewholecountryintoonepark,whiletheChinaFolkCultureVillage4[map](daily9am–9pm)presents56differentethnicperspectives.

TheShenzhenMuseum,onFuzhongSanLuinFutianDistrict(Tue–Sun10am–6pm;free),ishometomorethan20,000culturalrelics,withpermanentexhibitionsonthehistoryofthePearlRiverDelta.ExhibitionsonfolkhistoryincludeHakkacultureandHakkaroundhouses.

Transportto/fromShenzhen

HongKong–Shenzhen

Trains:Every6–8minutesfromKowloontotheborderterminusofLoWu(5.30am–11.07pm)or,slightlylessfrequently,toLokMaChau(5.35am–9.35pm).Journeytakesaround45minutes.Shenzhenstationislocatedjustovertheborder.

Ferries:20+dailyferriesbetweenHongKong/KowloonandShekouport(50mins);11–13dailybetweenHongKongAirportandShekou(30mins);5–8dailybetweenHongKongAirportandtheFuyongFerryTerminal(ShenzhenAirport;45mins).

Buses:Frequentshuttlebuses(typicallyevery30mins)runfromseverallocationsaroundHongKong,includingCentral,TsimShaTsuiandtheairport,todowntownShenzhen,ShekouandShenzhen

Airport.

Shenzhen–Macau

Ferries:3dailyto/fromShekouport(80mins).AlsohourlyShekou–Zhuhai(1hr).

Shenzhen–Guangzhou

Trains:3–5expressperhour(55–70mins),plusslowertrains(1.5hrs).

Buses:frequentdepartures(1.5–2hrs).

TheShenzhenMetroShenzhen’smetrosystemopenedin2004andhassincedevelopedatwarp-speed.Therearecurrentlyeightlines:the“green”Luobaolineisprobablythemostimportant,runningfromLoWu,throughthecentralDongmenarea,outpastthethemeparks,throughtherapidlydevelopingNanshandistrictandontotheairport;the“red“Longhualinerunsnorth–southfromtheFutianbordercrossing(besideLokMaChau)toQinghu;the“blue”LongganglinealsobeginsinFutianandventuresnortheastpasttheUniversiadepark;the“purple”Huanzhonglinedoesanortherlylooparoundthecity;whilethe“yellow”Shekoulinerunseast–westallthewayouttotheShekouportandpeninsular.Threenewlinesopenedin2016:the“navy”line,travellingwest–eastfromXiliLaketoTai’an;the“grey”linethroughNanshan,FutianandLuohu;andtheAirportExpress,linkingBao’anInternationalAirportandthecitycentre.Trainsrunevery6–8minutes6.30am–11pm.

AroundtheDeltaAwayfromShenzhen,muchofthePearlRiverDeltaisamixofsprawlingindustrialparks,oddswathesoffarmlandandoccasionalgolfcoursesinterspersedwithafewlessdevelopedhillyareas.Theareastothewestoftheriverdeltaitselfare,onthewhole,moreattractivethanthosetotheeast.

PassengersaboardthetrainatShenzhenRailwayStation.

Dreamstime

HumenandtheopiumpitsWhileinternationaltradeisnowalltherageintheDelta,earlyattemptsbyWesterntraderstointroduceopiumtoChinainthe19thcenturymetwithstiffofficialresistance,commemoratedatbothaparkandamuseuminthetownofHumen,rightontheriverdelta,around25km(15miles)northwestofShenzhenAirport.ItwasatHumenthatCommissionerLinZexu(formoreinformation,clickhere)contaminatedseveralthousandchestsofopiumwithquicklimein1839,thendepositedthehaulintheso-calledopiumpitsontheshoretothesouthoftown.TheBritishretaliated,sparkingtheFirstOpiumWar,andLinwasexiled.IntheOpiumWarMuseum(YapanZhanzhengBowuguan;www.ypzz.cn;daily8.30am–5pm)inZhixinPark,muchismade(andrightlyso)oftheperfidiousnessofforeignmerchantswhostartedtheconflictthatendedwiththeChineseforcesvanquishedandthecedingofHongKongin1841.Onthecoastsome5km(3miles)southofHumentown,theoriginalopiumpitsareworthavisit(8am–5pm).

FoshanandShiwanThebusycityofFoshan5[map]liessouthwestofGuangzhou.It’sadustycentreofceramicsandtextileproduction,buthiddenawayfromthegridsoffactoriesisthe1,000-yearoldZuMiaoTemplecomplex(21ZumiaoLu;daily8.30am–6pm)Thetempleiswellpreserved,withmanyfinelysculpturedfriezesmadefromlimestone,ashofshells,paper,rice,strawandsand.TheoncecolourfullypaintedfriezesdepictfablesandscenesofFoshan’shistory.Manyofthefriezeshavefadedtoanantiquetone,whichaddstothetemple’scharm.

Shiwan6[map],just2km(1.25miles)southwestofdowntownFoshan,hasbeenmakingceramicsforcenturies,andishometomanyporcelainfactoriesthatthesedayswelcometourgroups.ThefiresattheNanfengAncientKiln(daily8am–5pm)aresaidtohavebeenalightandfiringpotterysincetheMingera.Thefour-dayfiringprocessisexplainedbywayofaseriesofEnglish-languagesigns.

IntheNanhaidistrictofFoshan,XiqiaoShan7[map]isahillyareawithvillagesthathaveretainedsomeoftheir19th-centuryflavour.XiqiaoisoneofthemorepeacefulareasinGuangdong,onethatstillthrivesonitslocalproduceandrivertrade.Fromthetown,it’spossibletotravelbycablecartovisitthestatueofGuanyinonthecrestofthenearbyhillandwalkalongstonepathsthatwindthroughevensmallervillages,rockyplateauxandwaterfalls,includingFeiliutianChi,whichisreckonedtobethemostpicturesque.

SouthtoMacauShunde8[map],ontheroadfromGuangzhoutoZhuhai,isrenownedforitsQinggarden,andhassomephotogenicbacklanesandcanals.Furthersouth,thelargetownofJiangmen9[map]iseminentlymissable,althoughtheMing-eravillagesinthesurroundingcountryside–centredroundawatchtower–areapleasantreminderofarchitecturalwhiminformerdays.ClosertoZhuhai,andonthecoast,thememorialgardenatCuiheng)[map]paystributetoitsbest-knownson,DrSunYat-sen,China’sfirstrepublicanpresident.Zhuhai![map]isthelastmajorcitybeforeMacau,andissteadilygrowinginimportanceasaSpecialEconomicZone.

Guangzhou

OneofthefirstChinesecitiesopentotheoutsideworld,Guangzhouhaslonghadeconomic

modernisationasitsgoal.Still,despitetheusualurbanbustle,someofoldCantonremains.

MainAttractions

PearlRiverCruiseShamianIsland

ChenjiaSiTempleSunYat-senMemorialHall

YuexiuParkBaiyunShan

InGuangzhou@[map]–alwaysoneofChina’smoredynamiccities–thereisapalpablesenseoftheenergyfuellingthecountry’srapidtransformation.Thisisaboisterousurbancentrewithalltheblemishesoneassociateswithmoderncities,airpollutionandtrafficjamsincluded.Thegreatermetropolitanarea–withcountlessfactoriesandaccompanyingmigrantworkforce–ishometoover14million.ThecityishighlyaccessiblefromHongKongthankstofrequenthigh-speedraillinks(formoreinformation,clickhere).Thoughmostofthepassengerswhopackthesecarriagesarebusinesstravellers,Guangzhouisaneasyandpopulartripfortourists,albeitonewhichrequiresafullChinavisa.IncontrasttoShenzhen,thecityretainsadistinctidentityandisrelativelywellendowedwithtraditionaltouristsights.Thesehavebeenaddedtoinrecentyearswiththedevelopmentofaculturalzoneintheeasternreachesofthecitycentre,wherethereisadazzlingoperahouseandalavishmuseumdedicatedtoCantoneseculture.

ViewacrossZhujiangNewTown.Bigstock

GuangzhouisthoughttohavebeenfoundedinthethirdcenturyBCasanencampmentbythearmiesoftheQinemperor,QinShiHuangdi.DuringtheTangdynasty(618–906),thecitywasalreadyaninternationalport,althoughforcenturiesitremainedsecondtoQuanzhou(MarcoPolo’sZaytun,upthecoastinFujianprovince).TradewithEuropebeganafterthePortugueseestablishedthemselvesintheregionafter1514,andfrom1757to1842,GuangzhouwastheonlyChineseportopentoforeignersandwasatthecentreofthebuild-uptotheFirstOpiumWar(formoreinformation,clickhere).ItlaterbecameoneofChina’sfourtreatyports.

BridgeoverthePearlRiverlitupbyalightshowincentralGuanzhoucity.iStock

FollowingtheoverthrowoftheQingdynastyin1911,thecityattractedreformersandrevolutionaries.SunYat-senestablishedtheheadquartersoftheGuomintang(NationalistParty),thefirstmodernpoliticalpartyinChina.Later,MaoZedongandZhouEnlaiworkedandtaughtinGuangzhouduringabriefperiodofcooperationbetweenthetwopoliticalgroups.DuringtheMaoera,whiletherestofChinawasclosedtoforeigntrade,GuangzhouresumeditsroleasChina’stradingwindowontheword,continuingtodobusinessattheinternationalCantonFair.Inrecentyears,eventhoughithaslostgroundtotheeconomicmiraclethatismodernShanghai,thecityhasconsolidateditsprosperityandisamagnetformigrantworkers.

AroundthecityGuangzhouisdefinedbythePearlRiver(ZhuJiang),whichflowsthroughthecentreofthecityfromwesttoeast.Placesofinterestarescatteredaroundawidearea.

Tip

AcruiseonthePearlRiver(ZhuJiang)isapleasantwayofseeingGuangzhou,particularlyintheeveningwhenthecitylooksatitsbest–allthebridges,andmanyoftheskyscrapersoneitherbank,areimaginativelyfestoonedwithlightingdisplays.BoatsdepartfromTianziandDashapiersonthenorthbank,andmostcruiseslastfor90minutes,withtheoptionofdiningaboard.Severalcompaniescompeteforbusiness,thoughthefocusisondomestictourism.Ticketboothsatbothpiersdisplaypricesandpackages.

ShamianIslandA[map]ThemostattractiveneighbourhoodtoexploreisaroundShamianIsland,apreservedrelicofcolonialtimesinthesouthwestofthecity.OriginallyasandbaronthenorthernbankoftheZhuJiang,thesmallislandwasreclaimedandexpanded,thendividedin1859intoseveralforeignconcessions,primarilyFrenchandBritish.Acanalwasdug,andafterteno’clockintheeveningtwoirongatesandnarrowbridgeskepttheChineseofftheisland.

Shamianiscompactandfeelsverymuchlikearesortarea,insharpcontrasttothehustleoftherestofthecity.Aprogrammeofgentrificationhasrenovatedanumberofoldcolonialbuildingsandnurturedopen-airrestaurantsandriversidecafés,whilstformerCatholicandAnglicanchurcheshavebeenreopenedforworship.

QingpingMarketTothenorthofShamianIsland,alongQingpingLu,isQingpingMarketB[map](Qingping

Shichang),longknownforsellingeveryimaginableanimalforfood.Ithaschangedinrecentyears–inpartbecauseofSARS–andtherearefewerexoticmammalsondisplay.

Howeverthesightoflivescorpionsandturtles,orlivefowl,catsandrabbitskeptinsmalldirtycagesstillshocks.Thenearbystreetsofpetshopsoffersomenewconflictsto

puzzleover.StallsliningDishipuLuandDaiheLuselljade,jewellery,oldtimepiecesandMaoparaphernalia.

Around1km(0.6mile)tothenorth,theparallelstreetsofXiajiuLuandChangshouLuformthecentreofalivelyshoppinganddiningarea.BehindtheGuangdongRestaurant,anarrowsidealleycalledShangxiaJieleadstoHualinSiC[map],saidtohavebeenfoundedbyanIndianmonkin526,althoughtheexistingbuildingsdatefromtheQingdynasty.Thereare500statuesofluohan,pupilsoftheBuddha,inthemainhall.

ThewaterfrontTheBund(YanjiangLu)runseastwardsalongthewaterfrontfromShamianto

HaizhuQiaoD[map],builtin1933andtheoldeststeelbridgeacrossthePearlRiver.Around2km(1.5miles)eastofthebridgeonEr-ShaIslandistheGuangdongMuseumofArtE[map](GuangdongMeishuguan;38YanyuLu;www.gdmoa.org;Tue–Sun9am–5pm;free).Itsdozenexhibitionhallsdisplaysomeofthemoreavant-gardeexamplesofChineseart,withexhibitionsofworkbylocalstudentsandanoutdoorsculpturearea.

AcathedralandamosqueTothenorthwestofHaizhu,the50-metre(160ft)doubletowersoftheSacredHeartCatholicCathedralF[map](ShishiJiaotang)areplainlyvisible.Builtintheearly1860sitholdsservicesundertheauspicesofthePatrioticCatholicChurch.

Furthernorthistheonion-shapeddomeofHuaishengSiG[map],datingbackto627andfoundedbyatradersaidtobeanuncleoftheProphetMohammed.The25-metre(82ft)minaret,theGuangTaPagoda(NakedPagoda),dominatesanareawherehigh-risesarecompetingtocapturetheskyline.ThemosquefunctionsasaculturalcentreforGuangzhou’sHuiMuslims,whocompriseabout5percentofthecity’spopulation.

Citytransport

Guangzhou’smetrosystemisextensive,andthenetworkconnectsmostplacesofinterest.Trainsarecleanandruneveryfewminutesfrom6amtomidnight.Tickets(actuallyadiscwhichisinsertedintheturnstile)costfromRmb2,andstored-valuecardsareanoption.StationsaremarkedbyredsignswithasplitYsymbol,andsignageandticketmachinesarebilingual.Taxisfillinthegapsthatthemetrohasyettoreach;askyourconciergetowriteyourdestinationinChinese,asfewdriversspeakanyEnglish.Allcabshavemeters.Thebusnetworkiscomprehensive,butslowandcrowded.Therearefewerbicyclesthesedays,butthiscanstillbeagoodwayofgettingabout–bikehireisavailableonShamianIsland.

LiurongSiH[map]Address:87LiurongLu

OpeningHrs:daily9am–5pmEntranceFee:chargeTransport:XimenKou

NorthofZhongshanLu,oneofthecity’smaineast–westthoroughfares,anarrowstreetleadstotheLiurongTemple(TempleoftheSixBanyanTrees).Itwasbuiltin1097togetherwiththeHuaTaPagoda(FlowerPagoda),althoughatemplehasstoodheresincethesixthcentury.Eachstoreyhasdoorwaysandanencirclingbalcony–climbtothetoptoberewardedwithagreatviewofGuangzhou’surbansprawl.

CarsspeedpastabuildingonShamianIsland.

123RF

GuangxiaoSiI[map]Address:109GuangxiaoLu

OpeningHrs:daily6.30am–5pmEntranceFee:chargeTransport:XimenKou

GuangxiaoTemple(TempleofBrightFilialPiety)waspreservedduringtheCulturalRevolutiononordersfromPremierZhouEnlai.ThetempleisbelievedtodatebacktosometimearoundAD400,althoughmostbuildingsareof19th-

centuryvintage.TheentranceismarkedbyabrightlypaintedlaughingBuddha,andthemainhallisnotableforitsceilingofred-lacqueredtimber,whiletherearcourtyardhassomeoftheoldestironpagodasinChina.

TheDongtieandXitiepagodas(WesternandEasternIronpagodas)datebacktothecity’searliestbeginnings.Thereisa10th-centurystonepagodabehindthemainhallwithsculpturesoftheBuddhaplacedineightniches.

ChenjiaSiJ[map]Address:ZhongshanLu

OpeningHrs:daily8.30am–5pmEntranceFee:chargeTransport:ChenjiaSi

ChenjiaSi(ChenFamilyTemple),locatedonthewesternendofZhongshanLuclosetotheeponymoussubwaystation,isoneofChina’smorewhimsicaltemples.Thetemple,builtin1894,hassixcourtyardsandaclassicalChineselayout,andisdecoratedwithfriezescraftedinShiwan,nearFoshan(formoreinformation,clickhere).ThelargestfriezedepictsscenesfromtheepicRomanceofThreeKingdoms,withthousandsofintricatefiguresagainstabackdropofornatehouses,grandiosegatesandpagodas.Thereisagiantaltarofgold-leafplatingandadditionalwood,brickandstonefriezesalongtherooftops.

ThetemplehousestheGuangdongFolkArtsMuseumwithdisplaysfromalloverChina,includingembroidery,ethnicminoritycostumes,porcelainfiguresandjadecarvings.

YuexiuPark.iStock

AroundJiefangLuTheSunYat-senMemorialHall(SunZhongshanJiniantang)K[map],setwithinalush6-hectare(15-acre)park,iseasytospotwithitseye-catchingbluerooftiles.Theoctagonalhall,builtshortlyafterthedeathofSunYat-senin1925andcompletedin1931,nowhousesalargetheatreandlecturehall.

Guangzhou’slargestpark,YuexiuL[map],isbeautifullylandscapedwiththreeartificiallakes,rollinghills,rocksculpturesandlushgreenery.ItscentrepieceistheTowerOverlookingtheSea(Zhenhailou)M[map],amemorialtothesevengreatseajourneysundertakenbytheMuslimeunuchadmiralZhengHetoEastAfrica,thePersianGulfandJavabetween1405and1433.Today,thetowerhousesamunicipalmuseumshowcasingthehistoryofGuangzhou(www.guangzhoumuseum.cn;daily9am–5pm).

NearbyisthemarbleandgraniteSunYat-senMonument,whichsitsonahillabovetheSunYat-senMemorialHall.

OntheothersideofJiefangBeilufromYuexiuParkistheNanyueTombN[map](XihanNanyueWangmu;daily9am–5pm),thetomboftheNanyuemperor.In1983,bulldozersuncoveredthetomboftheemperorWenDi,whoruledsouthernChinafrom137to122BC.Nowanundergroundmuseum,thesitehousestheskeletonsoftheemperorand15courtiers,includingconcubines,guards,cooksandamusician,whowereburiedalivewiththeemperor.Thousandsoffuneralobjectsfromjadearmourtobronzemusicchimesaredisplayedinadjoiningrooms.

Fact

Initsearliesttimes,GuangzhouwascalledPanyu,andthenameGuangzhoufirstappearedduringtheperiodoftheThreeKingdoms(AD222–280).ThecitywasformerlyknowntoWesternersasCanton:fromtheCantonesepronunciationoftheprovincialname“Guangdong”,thePortuguesederivedthenameofCantão;fromCantãocameCanton.

EasterndistrictsEastofYuexiuPark,ontheedgeofLuhuPark,istheGuangzhouMuseumofArtO[map](GuangzhouMeishuBowuguan;www.gzam.com.cn;13LuhuLu;Tue–Sun9am–5pm),withanimpressivecollectionofancientandcontemporaryartandsculpture(includinggenuineterracottawarriorsfromXi’an).

ClosetothejunctionofYuexiuandZhongshanLuistheformerKongziMiao,orConfuciusTemple,whichlostitsreligiousfunctionduringthe“bourgeoisrevolution”of1912.In1924,thePeasantMovementTrainingInstituteP[map](NongminYundongJiangxisuo;daily9am–5.30pm)wasopenedhereasthefirstschooloftheChineseCommunistParty.TheeliteofthePartytaughthere:MaoZedong(hisworkandbedroomareonshow),Zhou

Enlai,GuoMoruoandseveralothers.

ViewofGuangzhoufromtheBaiyunMountain.Dreamstime

Afterthecollapseofaworkers’uprisingin1927,thecommunistswereforcedtoretreatfromthecities.Aparkandmemorial,LieshiLingyuanQ[map](MemorialGardentotheMartyrs)situatedjusttotheeastofthePeasantTrainingInstitute,wascreatedin1957inmemoryoftheuprisinganditsnearly6,000victims.NearbyistheGuangdongGemingBowuguanR[map](ProvincialMuseumoftheRevolution;daily9am–5pm),areminderoftheroleoftheGuomintang(NationalistParty)anditspredecessorssincetheFirstOpiumWar.

ZhujiangNewTownOnthenorthernbanksofthePearlRiver,eastofthehistoriccitycentre,liesZhujiangNewTown,aUS-stylegriddeddistrictthathasbeenraisedfromthedustoverthelastdecade.Studdedwithfive-starhotels,mammothtowerssuchastheGuangzhouInternationalFinanceCenter,andabeautifuloperahouse,itpointsthewaytoseveraltouristattractions.ThemesmerizingexteriordesignoftheGuangdongMuseumS[map](GuangdongBowuguan;hwww.gdmuseum.com;2ZhujiangDonglu;Tue–Sun9am–5pm;free)isasimpressiveasitsenormouscollection,whichexcelsonceramicsandpainting,

butalsohasitemssuchasDuaninkstonewhichspecificallyreflectGuangdong’shistoricculturalindustries.

Ontheoppositesideoftheriveristhehard-to-miss600-metre(1969ft)-highCantonTowerT[map](GuangdongTa;www.cantontower.com;222YuejiangXilu;daily9am–10pm)thetalleststructureinChinathankstotheenormousantennae.Thetowersellsavarietyofpackagedtouristexperienceswhichincludeathemepark-styleverticaldroprideontheoutsideofthetowerandanoutdoorobservationdeck488metres(1,600ft)abovegroundlevel.

BaiyunShanAneasyhalf-daytriptothenorthofthecityleadstoBaiyunShanU[map](WhiteCloudHills),aseriesofhillsoverlookingGuangzhou.Togettheretakeataxior,ifyoufeeluptoit,busno.24fromthesouthsideofRenminPark–journeytimeis30minutes.Acablecarascendstothetop,whereyoucanwalktoseveralotherpeaks.Souvenirstandsandteahousesarefoundatvariouspeaksandprecipicesinthearea,idealplacestositbackandtakeinthesurroundinghills.Ifyouprefertowalkuptothepeak,thereisapavedroadaswellasstonepathsthatwindupthroughthetrees.

Transport

Gettingthere

Byair

HongKongAirport

HongKongisamajorinternationalair-traffichubfortheregion,handlingjustover70millionpassengersin2016.TheimpressiveHongKongInternationalAirport(HKIA)islocatedatChekLapKok,onthenorthernshoreofLantauandabout34km(21miles)fromCentral.TheY-shapedbuildingishighlyefficient.Withtworunwaysandtwoterminals,HKIAcanhandle68flightsperhouratpeaktimes.Aircraftarereceivedataplethoraofgates;movingwalkwaysandanAutomatedPeopleMoverspeedarrivalstoImmigration,wherequeuesaredealtwithswiftly.Suitcasesareusuallycirclingthecarouselwhenyoureachthebaggagehall,andthereisalargeshoppingmall,left-luggageoffice,postoffice,plusplentyoffoodandbeverageoutlets.The1,171-roomRegalAirportHotelisconnectedtoTerminal1,whileaMarriottand9-holegolfcourseareaccessedviaSkyPlaza,agiantentertainmentandretailcomplexalongsideTerminal2.Enquiryhotline:21818888;www.hkairport.com.

TheAirportExpress(tel:28818888)railway,whichrunsfromrightinsidetheterminalbuilding,istheeasiestandquickestwaytogetintotown–trainsreachHongKongIslandinjust23minutes,withstopsatTsingYiandKowloonstations.SinglefarescostHK$90–100,returnsHK$160–180.ManyhotelsoperatefreeshuttlebusestoandfromtheAirportExpressstations.

Numerousbuseslinktheairportwiththecity.Airbusservices(prefixed“A”)runatregularintervalstoHongKongIsland,KowloonandtheNewTerritories,andmostrunfrom6amtomidnight.ThefaretoCentralisaroundHK$35.Slower“commuter”buses(prefixed“E”)runatsimilartimes.Therearenightbuses,andshuttlebusestoTungChungMTRstation.

ThetaxifaretoKowloonshouldbearoundHK$250,andHK$300toHongKongIsland–slightlymoreifyou’recarryingheavyluggage.Onlytheredtaxisareabletotakepassengerstothesedowntownareas.TherearedirectferryservicesfromtheairporttoMacauandShenzhen,aswellasafleetofbusestodestinationsinGuangdong.

Otherairports

MacauInternationalAirport(tel:28661111,orseewww.macau-airport.com)providesaconvenientgatewayfortravellersfrommanypointsinAsia.Anumberoflow-costairlinesoperateoutofMacau,soitcanbeeconomicaltoflytodestinationsinSoutheastAsiaandChinafromhere.TheairportisontheeastsideofTaipaIsland,andislinkedbybridgestothedowntownarea.Taxifaresareabout40Patacas(writtenasMOP$40).TheregularAP1busservesmajorhotels,theFerryTerminalandthebordergate–thefareisMOP$3.30.

ShenzhenBao’anInternationalAirport(eng.szairport.com)isnot(yet)amajorportofentryintoChina.Ifyouareplanningonwardtraveltoothermainlandcities,itisgenerallycheapertoflyfromShenzhenthanfromHongKong.TheairportislinkedtoHongKongbyaferryandbusservice,andissituatednorthwestofthecityonthedeltacoast.

Guangzhou’sgleamingBaiyunInternationalAirportis28km(18miles)anda45-minutedrivefromdowntown.Ithasevolvedintoanincreasinglyimportantinternationalhub.InadditiontoflightsacrossthemainlandandAsia,therearedirectlinkstoLondon,Paris,LosAngeles,MelbourneandSydney.Forflightinformation,tel:020-36066999,www.baiyunairport.com.Busesandtaxisshuttlepassengerstoandfromtheairport.ExpecttopaybetweenRMB120–150forataxi.

Byrail

MTRoperatesdirectintercitytrainsfromShanghaiandBeijingtoKowloon’sHungHomStationonalternatedays,aswellasdailyservicestotheGuangdongcitiesofChangping,Guangzhou,FoshanandZhaoqing(www.it3.mtr.com.hk).Thehigh-speednetworkthatcoversmuchoftheChinamainlandisnotyetpluggedintoHongKongsojourneytimesarerelativelyslow:justover19hoursto/fromShanghai,and23hoursto/fromBeijing.NotethatHongKongusuallyappearsas“Jiulong”–putonghuaforKowloon–onChinesepinyintimetables,noticeboardsandtickets.IftravellingbytrainfromotherdestinationsinChina,Guangzhouisthemainrailhub,and12directintercitythroughtrainsrunbetweenHungHomandGuangzhouEastdaily.AlternativelyyoucanheadtoShenzhenandwalkacrosstheborderatLoWu,thencatchanMTRtrainsouthtoKowloononceyouhaveclearedcustoms.

Bysea

NumerouscitiesinGuangdongprovinceareconnectedbyseawithHongKong,anditisalsopossibletotakeaferryfromXiameninFujianprovince.Formoreinformation,clickherefordetailsonregionaltransport.

Gettingaround

HongKongisaneasycitytogetaround,onceyouarearmedwithabilingualmap,andhaveworkedoutwhereHongKongIsland,theharbourandtheKowloonpeninsulaareinrelationtooneanother.Publictransportisexcellent,butbeaware,however,thatsincethisissuchadenselypopulatedcity,tryingtonavigateyourwayaroundintherushhourischallenging–evenimpossibleattimes–fortheuninitiated.Travellingatthistimeofdaymayalsomakeyoufeellessthancharitabletowardsthelocalpopulation.Ifyou’rewaitingforataxionthestreetawayfromataxirank,it’severymanforhimself.Don’texpectanyonetoacknowledgewhetheryouhavebeenthere10secondsor10minutes.Ifyouthinkit’syourturn,justtakethetaxi.

Octopuscards

VisitorsstayingmorethanafewdaysshouldbuyanOctopusstored-valuecard,whichpermitstravelontherailsystems,buses,someminibusesandferriesatreducedfares.Itcanalsobeusedatmanypublicphones,photobooths,vendingmachinesandforpurchasesatanumberofretailoutletssuchas7-Eleven,Starbucksandlocalsupermarkets.OctopuscardsaresoldatservicecountersatAirportExpressandMassTransitRailwaystations.TheminimumpriceisHK$150,whichincludesarefundableHK$50deposit.Childrenaged3–11andthoseover65payreducedfares.Forenquiries,tel:22662222.www.octopuscards.com.

Publictransport

Rail:theMTR

HongKonghasafastandefficientrailsystemwithclearsignageinEnglishandChinese.Alltrainsareair-conditionedandoperatefromaround6amuntiljustaftermidnight.

AlltrainsinHongKongareoperatedbytheMTR(tel:28818888,www.mtr.com.hk),inanetworknowcomprisingtenrailwaylinesservingHongKongIsland,Kowloon,NorthLantauandtheNewTerritories.AnadditionalLightRaillineservesTuenMunandYuenLong.TheMTRalsorunstheAirportExpress(formoreinformation,clickhere).

Adultsinglefaresvaryaccordingtothespecificdepartureanddestinationstations.TheyrangefromHK$4.50–55,thoughatypicaldowntownfarewillbeHK$13orless.Thereisa10percentdiscountifyouuseanOctopuscard(seepanel).Therearealsoticketdealsfortourists:aHK$55touristpass(HK$25forchildrenaged3–11)allowsunlimitedtravelduringany24-hourperiodontheIsland,TsuenWan,KwunTong,TseungKwanO,TungChungandDisneylandResortlines.ForHK$85/120youcangetaoneortwodaypasswhichincludesridestothemainlandChinaborderatLoWuandLokMaChau.TheAirportExpressTravelPassisthebestbetforanyonearrivingbyairforashortstayinHongKong.ItcostsHK$220/300foroneortwoAirportExpressjourneysandthreeconsecutivedaysunlimitedtravelontheMTR.

Trams

HongKongIsland’shistoric“ding-ding”tramsarebothaninexpensivewaytogetaroundandatouristattractionintheirownright.ThetramlinesrunacrossthenorthofHongKongIslandwestandeast.Stopsarefrequent,andyoucansimplyhoponandoffasyouplease.TheflatfareisHK$2.30,or$1.20forunder-12sand$1.10forover-65s(exactchangerequiredoruseanOctopusCard),andtheserviceoperatesbetween6amand1am.Sitonthetopdeckforthebestviews(formoreinformation,clickhere).

ThePeakTramisafunicularrailwayandhasbeenrunningsince1888.IttakeseightminutestoreachtheupperterminusfromtheterminusonGardenRoad,Central,runningevery15minutes,between7amandmidnightdaily.

ThePeaktramadultreturnfareisHK$45,single$32,children$20and$12.

Buses

SixdifferentbuscompaniesprovideservicesinHongKong,coveringallthemajorareasaswellasspeedyconnectionstoandfromtheairport.Routesarereducedatnight.FaresrangefromHK$1.90forshortjourneysinthecitytoHK$45forlongertripsintotheNewTerritories.FinaldestinationsaremarkedinEnglishandChineseonthefronttoppanel.DriversrarelyspeakmuchEnglish,buttimetablesandroutemapsarepostedatbusstops.Exactchangeisneeded,oruseanOctopusCard.

Enquiries:Citybus(tel:28730818)andNewWorldFirstBus(tel:21368888),whichrunonHongKongIsland,KowloonandtheNewTerritories,areownedbythesamecompany(www.nwstbus.com.hk).OtheroperatorsareKowloonMotorBus(KMB;tel:27454466;www.kmb.hk);LongWinBusCo.(tel:22612791),whichservestheairport;DiscoveryBayTransportationServices(tel:29870208);andtheNewLantaoBusCo.(tel:29849848;www.newlantaobus.com)onLantauIsland.

Ferries

Thenine-strongStarFerryfleetcrossestheharbourbetweenCentralandWanChai,onHongKongIsland,andTsimShaTsuiontheKowloonsidefrom6.30am–11.30pmeveryday(topdeckHK$2.50,lowerdeckHK$2Mon–Fri,topdeckHK$3.40,lowerdeckHK$2.80weekendsandpublicholidays).TherearealsoroutesfromHungHomtobothCentralandWanChai.Departuresareevery6–12minutesdependingonthetimeofday,andthejourneytakesabouteightminutesCentral–TsimShaTsui,andaround15minutesWanChai–TsimShaTsui.

FerriestotheOutlyingIslands–Lamma,Lantau(including24-hourservicetoDiscoveryBay),CheungChauandPengChau–leavefromtheferrypierstothenorthoftheIFCtoweronHongKongIsland.FaresstartfromHK$11.Fastferriescostmore.

Minibuses/maxicabs

These16-seaterpassengervans,colouredcreamwitheitheraredorgreenside-stripe,runonfixedroutesbutwillstopanywhereexceptondoubleyellowlines.Theyareusuallyfasterthanregularbuses,butnotascheap.DestinationsareusuallywritteninEnglishatthefrontofthevan.Calloutclearlywhenyouwantthedrivertostop.FaresvaryfromHK$2–25.Vanswithagreenstripe(maxicabs)takeOctopusCardsorexactchangeonly.ThosewitharedstripedonottakeOctopusCardsbutwillgivechange.

Taxis

Itisusuallyeasytohailataxionthestreet,althoughatbusytimesyoumayneedtojoinaqueueatataxirank–bestatahotel.TaxisinHongKongandKowloonarecolouredredand,intheory,cantakeyouanywhereintheterritoryapartfromnon-airportdestinationsonLantau.However,sometimesyouwillcomeacrosstaxisonHongKongIslandwhichareso-called“Kowloontaxis”:otherwiseidentical,thesewillonlytakepassengersacrosstoKowloon–whichcanbefrustrating.GreentaxisoperateintheNewTerritories,andbluecabsonLantauIsland.AlltaxiscancarrypassengersbetweentheairportandtherestofHongKong.

TheinitialfareisHK$22forredtaxis,HK$18.50forgreen,HK$17forblue.Thereareadditionalchargesforeachitemofluggagethat’sstoredinthetrunk,animalsandtravellingviatunnels,whichareallpostedinsidethetaxi.Passengersmustwearaseatbelt(whenavailable)whethersittinginthefrontorrear.

ManytaxidriverscanspeaksomeEnglishandknowthemainhotelsandtouristspotsinHongKong,buttoavoidproblems,takeyourdestinationwrittendowninChinese.Ifyouencounterdifficulties,allcabsareequippedwitharadiotelephone,andsomebodyatthecontrolcentreshouldbeabletotranslate.

Takingpassengersforaridebyacircuitousrouteisnotunknown,anddriverswillsometimesrefuseafare,usuallyifthejourneywilltakethemoutoftheirwayastheyareabouttofinishwork.Youmaycallapoliceofficerorphonethecomplainthotline,tel:25277177,buttosavetimeitisprobablybettertowalkoffandfindanothertaxi.Ifyoulosesomethinginataxiyoucancall1872920totryandtraceit.Youwillneedtopayachargeforthemtosearchforyouwhetherornotyougetyourbelongingsback.

Streetsigns

AllstreetsignsareinbothEnglishandChinese.HongKongstreetmapsusuallyhavebothEnglish-andChinese-languagesectionsinthebacktomakeiteasiertofindyourdestination.Problemsmayarisewhenusingtaxisoraskingdirections.WheretheEnglishnameofastreetordistrictisatransliterationoftheChinese,thecomplexitiesofCantonesepronunciationmaystillmakeitunintelligibletotheaveragedriver.Fromtheoppositeperspective,manydowntownroadsarenamedafterhistoriccolonialfiguresorplaces,withtheChineseversionanattemptattransliterationinCantonese.Onceagain,thegulfinpronunciationbetweenthetwolanguagessometimesmakesthemmutuallyunintelligible.Otherroadsreferencethesamelandmark,building,personorplacebutusetheoriginalwordintherespectivelanguages,makingthemsoundverydissimilar.Ifindoubt,trytohaveyourdestinationwritteninChinesescript.

Macautransport

ThehugeriseinvisitornumberstoMacauhasresultedintrafficproblems,andtaxisareoftendifficulttofindawayfromhotels,casinos,theferrypierorthebordercrossing.Manycasinosoperatefreeshuttlebusesfromtheferryterminal.

Buses

BusesandminibusesareeasytouseinMacau,withtheEnglishdestinationwrittenonthefrontalongwiththeChinese.Busstopshaveroutesandnumbersclearlymarked.Exactchangeisneeded.Abattalionofbuseswaitattheferryterminalandstopatmostmajorhotels,casinosandtouristsites.Faresarecheap,rangingfromMOP$3.20foranywhereonMacaupeninsulatoMOP$6.40forHacSaonColoane.

Taxis

TheformerPortuguesecolonyhasafleetofblackoryellowtaxis.TheinitialfareisMOP$17.DriversherespeaklessEnglishthanthoseinHongKong,andmanycarryalistoftouristsiteswritteninEnglishandChineseintheircab.Thereisasmallsurchargeforlargeitemsofluggage.

Pedicabs

Asanechoofthequietercolonialpast,thereareasmallgaggleofpedicabdriverswhowaitforcustomatthejettyterminal.Youwillneedtobargainwiththedriver–atypicalpriceisaroundMOP$150perhour,butnotethatalotofMacauishilly,withtheroadsbeingcongestedandunsuitableforthesetwo-seaterbicyclecabs.

ForinformationonpublictransportinShenzhenandGuangzhou,formoreinformation,clickhere.

RegionalTransport

Byboat

HongKong–Macau

TherearenumerouswaystotravelfromHongKongtoMacaubysea.Faresforseacrossingsvarybetweenservicesandtheclassofticket,thetimeoftheday,andthedayoftheweekyoutravel.FirstFerryrunsitshigh-speedcatamaransfromtheChinaFerryTerminalinTsimShaTsui.Turbojetservicesareslightlymoreexpensiveandmorefrequent,andtheyleavefromtheMacauFerryTerminalattheShunTakCentreinSheungWan,HongKongIsland.TicketsrangebetweenHK$164andHK$200foreconomyclassoneway.Forthemostup-to-dateinformationonfares,checkwiththecompanyprovidingtheserviceortheHongKongofficesoftheMacauGovernmentTouristOffice,tel:28315566;www.macautourism.gov.mo.

ShunTakHoldings’TurbojetscarrythelargestpercentageofpassengersbetweenHongKongandMacau,andtakeaboutanhour.Refreshmentsareprovidedonboard,withcomplimentarynewspapers,coffeeandteaonthefirst-classtopdeck.Departuresareevery15minutesfrom7amuntil1am,andthenroughlyoneanhour.TurbojetsalsooperatearoutedirectfromHongKongAirporttoMacau,althoughthereareonlysevendeparturesdaily.ContactTurbojetontel:28593333,www.turbojet.com.hk.

TheNewWorldFirstFerry“flyingcats”aretwo-deckcatamaransthatcarry400passengers.Theyleaveeveryhalf-hourbetween7amandmidnightfromChinaFerryTerminalTST.ContactFirstFerryontel:21318181,www.nwff.com.hk.YoucanalsogostraightfromHongKongtoTaipaonCotaiJetFerries(tel:23599900),whichdepartfromtheMacauFerryTerminaleveryhalfanhour7.30am–6pmand,approximately,everyhourupfrom6pm–midnight.FromTaipathereareeitherhourlyorhalfhourlyferriesfrom7am–3am.TicketscostfromHK$154onweekdaysandfromHK$167atweekends.ThisisagoodoptionifyouareheadingstraightfortheCotaicasinosorforTaipa/Coloane.

Itiswisetobuyyourreturnticketinadvance,especiallyifyouaretravellingattheweekendorduringapublicholiday,asticketscansellout.

Baggage

Baggageislimitedto9kg(20lb),andthereisnotmuchspaceonboardforlargesuitcases.TheLeftLuggageServiceCentre,G/FShopG02,ShunTakCentre(6.30am–12.30am)chargesHK$20perpieceperhour.

HongKong–Guangdong

FerriesoperatebetweenHongKongandseveralGuangdongcitiesincludingZhuhaiandShekou(forShenzhenAirport).TheferryservicewhichonceservedGuangzhouhaslongsinceceasedtooperate,usurpedbymodernroadandraillinks.MostferriesleavefromHongKong’sChinaFerryTerminalonCantonRoad,TsimShaTsui.TicketscanbeboughtfromtheterminalorCTSoffices.

Byhelicopter

SkyShuttle(inHK,tel:21089898;www.skyshuttlehk.com)operateahelicopterservicebetweenHongKongandMacau.Thereareflightsevery30minutesfrom9amuntil10.59pm.TheflightsusehelipadsontheMacauFerryTerminalintheShunTakCentreinHongKongandtheMacauFerryTerminalinMacau.One-wayfaresareHK$4,300,risingtoHK$4,800duringholidayperiods.Journeytimeisaround20minutes.ThereisalsoalessfrequenthelicopterservicebetweenMacauandShenzhen.

Byrail

Guangzhou–HongKong

TwelvedailytrainslinkGuangzhou’sEastRailwayStationandHunghomStationinKowloon.Travellingtimeisjustundertwohours.ThereisalsoadailytrainbetweenZhaoqingandHongKong,viaGuangzhouandFoshan,withatravellingtimeoffourhours.

InGuangzhou,awayfromthestationitself,mosthotelsandtheCTS(ChinaTravelService)officecanhelpwithtraintickets.InHongKong,ticketscanbepurchasedthroughtravelagents,hotels,CTSofficesandatHunghomStation(tel:29477888).IfticketstoGuangzhouaresoldout,taketheMTRtotheborderterminusofLoWu(a40-minutejourney,withdeparturesroughlyevery10minutes).ShenzhenStationisafewminutes’walkacrosstheborder.

TherearedozensoftrainsdailybetweenShenzhenandGuangzhou.TraveltimescanbeuptotwohoursifdepartingthecentralGuangzhouRailwayStation(GuangzhouHuocheZhan),thoughregularbullettrainsmakethetripfromGuangzhouEast(GuangzhouDongZhan)inaround50minutes.

Alltrainsareair-conditioned.

A-Z:AHandySummaryofPracticalInformation

A

Accommodation

Hotelareas

HongKong’srelativelysmallsizemeansthatyouarenevermuchmorethananhourfromthecitycentreandharbour.ThemajorityoftouristsstayinTsimShaTsui,ontheKowloonsideofVictoriaHarbour,althoughthemostluxurioushotelstendtobelocatedonHongKongIsland,inthedistrictsofCentral,WanChaiandCausewayBay.

Businesstravellers’choiceofhotelisdeterminedbythepurposeoftheirtrip.ThereareplentyoftophotelsclosetothemainfinancialandbusinessdistrictsonHongKongIsland.IfaHongKongConventionandExhibitionCentreeventisthefocusofthetrip,thenahotelwithinwalkingdistanceinWanChaiisuseful.ForbusinesspeopleusingHongKongasabasefortraveltosouthernChina,hotelsintheNewTerritoriesmaybebest.

ThelowlevelofpersonalcrimeinHongKongmeansthattherearenodistrictstoavoid.IfyouwouldliketoescapethemoredenseurbanareasitisperhapsworthinvestigatingthehandfulofhotelslocatedintheNewTerritoriesandtheOutlyingIslands;traveltimesintoCentralwillbebetween30minutesandonehour.

InMacau,thechoicesrangefromgoliathLasVegas-stylecasinoresortsontheMacaupeninsulaorCotaitoquietescapesonColoane.BusinesstravellerstoGuangzhoucanenjoythesumptuousnewhotelsaroundtherapidlydevelopingTianhecommercialdistrictwhileShamianIslandisprobablythemostpleasantbaseforleisuretravellers.Shenzhen,ShekouandDameishahavewell-equippedresorts,andanyhotelwithin15minutesofLoWuisidealforshopping.

Pricesandbooking

HongKonghassomeoftheworld’sbesthotels,buttheyarealsoamongthemostexpensive,withbudgetoptionslimited.RoomsatthebesthotelsstartatmorethanUS$400.FlexibletravellerswillfindpricescheaperMondaytoThursdays,thoughpricesremainhighthroughoutHongKong’svarioustradefairsandpublicholidays.Checkwiththehotel’swebsite,travelagentsorhotel-bookingwebsitesforthebesttimetotakeadvantageofcheaperrates–reliablewebsitesincludeAsiaTravel;AsiaHotels;C-Trip,www.ctrip.com;andWotif,www.Wotif.com.

VisitorsarrivingattheairportwithouthotelbookingscanmakereservationsatoneoftwoboothsoperatedbytheHongKongHotelsAssociation(open6amtomidnight)inthearrivalsareaofTerminal1.TravelagentsatMacauFerryTerminaldisplayhotelratesclearlyandofferferryandroomdeals.

ThereisnosalestaxinHongKong;howeverhotelsadda10percentservicechargetobills.

InMacau,pricesaregenerallymuchcheaperthanHongKongbuttariffsincreasesharplyatweekends.RoomsareoftenfullybookedonSaturdaysandaroundmajorpublicholidays.PricesattophotelsinShenzhenandGuangzhouarealsomarkedlycheaperthanHongKongbutthepricegapisnarrowing.Adoubleroominafive-starhotelwilllikelycostinexcessofUS$250,moreduringtradefairsorpublicholidays.

Formoredetailsabouthotels,checkwiththeHongKongHotelsAssociation(tel:23753838),ortrytheHongKongTouristBoardatwww.discoverhongkong.com.

ManyChinesetouristsarechainsmokers.Ifyouarenotasmoker,insistfirmlyonanon-smokingfloorwhenbooking,anddoublecheckyourrequesthasbeenmetwhenyouarrive.

Addresses

HongKongcontinuestousetheaddresssysteminheritedfromtheBritishandaddressesareeasilyunderstoodbytourists.RoadsallhavecorrespondingChineseandEnglishnames,thoughthewayinwhichtheycorrespondmaynotalwaysbeobvious.SomeareChinesenamesrenderedinRomanizedscript;manyroadsonHongKongIslandandKowloonwereoriginallynamedafterhistoricBritishfiguresandtheChineseversionisanattemptattransliterationin

historicBritishfiguresandtheChineseversionisanattemptattransliterationinCantonese;othersstillreferencethesamelandmarkorbuilding,thoughtheChinesewordmaysoundcompletelyunliketheEnglish.Whenusingtaxis,itoftenpaystohaveyouraddresswrittendowninChinesescript.

InmainlandChina,addressesareorderedintheoppositeway,withthelargestunit–thecity,ordistrict–appearingatthetopofaddresses.IncontrasttoHongKong,theground-levelofanygivenbuildingisknownasthefirstfloor(1/F).Englishroadnamesarealwaysthepinyin(Romanized)versionoftheoriginalChinesename.Largeroadsareoftendividedintogeographicsections,andit’scommontoseethewordsDong,Xi,Bei,NanandZhongfeaturebeforethewordLu(road).Theserefer,respectively,toeast,west,north,southandcentralsections.

Admissioncharges

Government-ownedmuseumandgalleryadmissionsaregoodvalueinHongKong.AveragechargesarearoundHK$10foradultsandHK$5forseniorsandstudents.Childrenunderthreearefree,andmanymuseumsarefreetoallonWednesdays.Tomakeyourmoneygofurther,theHK$50MuseumPassgivesannualunlimitedaccesstosevenofthecity’smostpopularmuseumsandadiscounttoDisneylandPark.

Privatelyownedvenuesaremoreexpensive.AdultspayHK$265atMadameTussauds,whilechildrenaged3to11yearscostHK$215.AdayoffunatOceanParkisHK$219forchildrenandHK$438foradults.Bothoffersmalldiscountsforbookingonline.Atcinemas,ticketsaverageHK$80foradultswithasmallreductionforchildren.Admissiontoallparksandbeachesisfree.

Agerestrictions

ThelegalageofconsentforsexualactivityinHongKongis16.Licencedbars,restaurantsandclubscannotservealcoholtoanyonebelowtheageof18,thoughthereisnoagerestrictionondrinkingoutsidethesepremises.Driversmustbeovertheageof18.

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Budgetingforyourtrip

Budgetingforyourtrip

Havingstayedsteadyformostofthepastdecadeorso,pricesareslowlystartingtorise.TheHongKongdollarispeggedtotheUSdollar,sohowfaryourmoneygoeswillalwaysberelativetothestrengthandweaknessofthegreenback.

Hotelpricescanvarythroughouttheyear.ThebusiesttimesatHongKonghotelsareduringthemainpublicholidaysinChinaandthelargetradefairsinAprilandOctober.Outsidethesetimespricescandropconsiderablythoughroomtariffsarealwayshigheronweekends.Researchingyouroptionswillpayoff,asmanyhotelshaveregularpromotionsontheirwebsites,andtravelagentsandonlinehotel-bookingsitesnegotiatespecialrates.

OnceinHongKong,transportationisabargain.ForHK$11(US$1.50)youcantravelupto10stopsontheMTRorcrossHongKongIslandbypublicbus.ItcostsHK$2.30toridethelengthoftheislandbytramandonHongKong’sothericonictransportation,theStarFerry,youwillspendnexttonothingcrossingtheharbour.

DiscoveringtherangeoffoodinHongKongispartoftheexperience,andpricescanvarydramatically.YoucanexpecttopayUS$15orlessperpersonataveryreasonableChineserestaurant.Amealfortwoinamid-rangerestaurantcancostupwardsofUS$100withwine.AtthebestrestaurantsdinersexpecttopayUS$250plusfortwo.

Tostretchthebudgetfurther,lookoutforspecialmenusandbudgetsetmenusatcafésandrestaurants.“Businesslunch”setmenusaregreatvalue.

Therearebargainstobehadatthebesthotels.Thehotelbuffetisaninstitutionandagreatwaytosampleahugevarietyofcuisine,orsatisfydifferenttasteswithinagroupforareasonableprice.It’saneventinitselfandatreatforgastronomes.

StandarddrinksinHongKongcostaroundUS$8andcanbedoubleinluxuryhotelbarsandthetrendiestvenues.LookoutforHappyHours.

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Climate

HongKonghasahumid,subtropicalclimate.Thereare,however,fourdistinctseasons.TheidealtimefortravellingtoHongKongisfromtheendofSeptembertoearlyDecember,whentheweatheriswarm,theairisrelativelydryanditseldomrains.Theaveragedaytimetemperatureisaround24°C(75°F),withhumidityaround70percent.

Whattowear

Despitethelatitude,winter(lateDecembertoearlyMarch)temperaturescanbeslightlychilly,especiallyintheruralareas,soitisadvisabletobringlightwoollensandsometimesacoat.Theaveragedaytimetemperatureis17°C(63°F),withhumidityaround75percent.

Temperaturesandhumidityriseabruptlyinspring,whendaytimetemperaturesshootupfrom20°C(68°F)inMarchto28°C(82°F)inMay.Insummer,whichlastsuntilearlySeptember,temperatureshoveraround30°C(86°F)andhumidityisconsistentlyabove70percent.Evenatnightitisrareforthetemperaturetodipbelow26°C(79°F),andevenwhenitdoesn’trainyouwillquicklybedrippingwithsweat.Wearlightclothes,butbringsomethingwithlongsleevesforthesummer–becausemanyrestaurantsandshopshaveveryeffectiveair-conditioning.

Macau’sclimateisthesameasHongKong’s.TemperaturesinGuangzhouareslightlyhigherinsummer,slightlylowerinwinter,andthereisrathermorerainthroughtheyear.

Typhoons

FromJunetoearlySeptember,itisnotuncommonforHongKongtoexperiencetropicalstormsortyphoons(thenamederivesfromdaifung–bigwind).IfyouareinHong

Kongwhenatyphoonhits,youwillfindthatvirtuallyeverythingcomestoacompletestandstill.

TheHongKongObservatoryhasstandardtyphoonwarningsthatvaryaccordingtohowcloseatyphoonistoHongKong.Usually,thisbeginswithatyphoonnumberone(T1)signal,whichmayshortlyescalatetoanumberthree.Whenthenumbereightsignalisraised,itmeansHongKongmaysufferadirecthit.Schools,officesandshopscloseimmediatelyandeveryonegoeshome.Araretyphoonnumbertenisalmostcertaintomeanseriousdamage,asthestormsweepsthroughtheterritorycausingfloodsandsometimesdeaths.Watchingtyphoonnewsbulletinscanbedramaticandexciting,butwheneverythingclosesyouwillbestuckforanythingtodo.Hotels,however,docontinuetooperate.Infact,localsoftengotohotelrestaurantsastheyaretheonlyplaceslikelytobeopenduringatyphoon.Stayinsideduringatyphoon,asfatalitieshavebeenknowntooccurinbothurbanandruralareas,mainlyduetoobjectsandstructuresthatfallinthestrongwinds.

Thefrequencyofdirecthitsiserratic:ofthefourteensince1946,onlytwo(TyphoonYorkandMangkhut)haveoccurredinthepast30years.InApril2008,typhoonNeoguripassedclosetoHongKong,theearlieststormforover50years.

Crimeandsafety

OneofthegreatjoysofHongKongisthelowlevelofcrimeandtheresultant

OneofthegreatjoysofHongKongisthelowlevelofcrimeandtheresultantfreedomfromfearofcrime.Inthemaincommercialandentertainmentareasyouaresafetowalkaloneatanyhouroftheday,andmostofthenight.Touristsaremoreobvioustargetsforpickpocketsinthebusiestareas,butnormalprecautionsshouldsuffice.

BothGuangzhouandMacauareconsideredsafedestinationsfortourists.Avoidtouts,anddonotbetemptedtopursuegoodsandservicesofferedtoyouonthestreet.

MorecautionisrequiredinShenzhen.HongKongresidentshavereportedmuggings.DressdownforavisittoShenzhenandleaveyourjewellerybehind.Sticktobusypublicareas.Whenshopping,donotletthelureofabargainmakeyouforgetyourcommonsense.

Customsregulations

HongKongisafreeport,soyoucanbringasmanygiftsasyoulikeinandoutoftheterritory.Wineandbeerarealsoduty-free,thoughpassengersarerestrictedto1litreofliquorwithanalcoholcontentof30%ormore.Firearmsmustbedeclaredandhandedintocustodyuntildeparture.Duty-freetobaccoallowancesforvisitorsare19cigarettes,asinglecigaror25gtobacco.

Departuretax

HongKongimposesaHK$120AirPassengerDepartureTaxonallpassengersaged12yearsandabovedepartingHongKongInternationalAirportorbyhelicopterattheHongKongMacauFerryTerminal.Thiswillbeincludedinthepriceoftheairlineticketandnomoneyispayableattheairport.

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Disabledtravellers

TheHongKongCouncilofSocialServiceshascompiledausefulaccessibilityguideforbuildingsandtouristattractions,www.hkcss.org.hk.

TaxisareoftenthebestwaytogetaboutinHongKong,andreasonablypriced.Thetrainnetworkshaveaveryinconsistentlevelofaccess.StationannouncementsareinCantonese,Mandarin(Putonghua)andEnglish.

announcementsareinCantonese,Mandarin(Putonghua)andEnglish.

Easy-AccessTravelisasubsidiaryoftheHongKongSocietyforRehabilitation,andhasafleetofspeciallyadaptedbusessoitcancaterforvisitorswithlimitedmobility.Daytrips,fullitinerariesandadviceareavailable.Email:eat@rehabsociety.org.hk,tel:27727301,www.rehabsociety.org.hk/e.

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Embassies&consulates

Australia,HarbourCentre,23–4/F,25HarbourRd,WanChai.Tel:28278881.

Canada,8–9thfloor,BerkshireHouse,25WestlandsRoad

QuarryBay.Tel:37194700.

France,AdmiraltyCentre,TowerII,25–26/F,18HarcourtRd,Admiralty.Tel:37529900.

Germany,21/F,UnitedCentre,95Queensway,Admiralty.Tel:21058788.

Ireland,20/F,33DesVoeuxRoad,Central.Tel.25350700

Japan,46–47/F,OneExchangeSquare,8ConnaughtPlace,Central.Tel:25221184.

NewZealand,Rm6501,CentralPlaza,18HarbourRd,WanChai.Tel:31158944.

Singapore,Unit901,9/F,Tower1,AdmiraltyCentre,18HarcourtRd,Admiralty.Tel:25272212.

SouthAfrica,Rm1906-08,19/F,CentralPlaza18HarbourRd,WanChai.Tel:39264300.

UnitedKingdom,1SupremeCourtRd,Admiralty.Tel:29013000.

UnitedStates,26GardenRd,Central.Tel:25239011.

EmergencynumbersForpolice,fireandambulanceservicesinHongKongandChina,dial

Forpolice,fireandambulanceservicesinHongKongandChina,dial999.InMacaucall999foremergencies,or919forpolice.

Etiquette

HongKong’sincredibledensitymeansresidentshavelearnedtocopewithminimalpersonalspace.However,forsuchacrowdedcity,HongKongisrelativelyfastidiouswhenitcomestopublicetiquette.FoodanddrinkisforbiddenontheorderlyMTR,queuesarewellobservedandjaywalkingisfrownedupon.Badhabitsarepointedoutininfomercialsbroadcastacrossthemedialandscape.Itisthepolaroppositeontheothersideofthemainlandborderwhereelbowsflyonsubwaytrains,queuesrarelyexistandjaywalkingisoftenanecessityifyouwishtocrosstheroad.

Electricity

ThevoltageinHongKongis200/220volts,50cycles.Foraplaceofsuchinternationalstanding,itissurprisingthatHongKongstilldoesnotseemtohavestandardisedplugfittings.However,hotelswillcertainlyhaveadaptorstomakeanyappliancework.

H

Healthandmedicalcare

NovaccinationsarerequiredforHongKong,butitisadvisabletoconsiderinoculationsagainstHepatitisA.TapwaterissafeinHongKong,butyoumayfindbottledwatermorepalatable.Themostimportantthingistokeepwellhydratedintheheatandhumidity.Foodfromstreetstallsisusuallyjustassafeasthatservedinlicensedcafésandrestaurants.Asia’smostprominentpharmacybrand,Watson’s,isheadquarteredinHongKongandtherearestoresacrosstheterritory,includingmanyMTRstationsandshoppingmalls.

Medicalservices

HongKong

AdventistHospital,40StubbsRd,HappyValley.Tel:36518888,www.hkah.org.hk.

CentralMedicalPractice,3/F,BaskervilleHouse,13DuddellStreet,Central.Tel:28240822,www.centralhealth.com.hk.

PrinceofWalesHospital,30–32NganShingSt,ShaTin,NewTerritories.Tel:26322211,www3.ha.org.hk/pwh.

QueenElizabethHospital,30GascoigneRd,Kowloon.Tel:29588888,www3.ha.org.hk/qeh.

QueenMaryHospital,102PokfulamRd,HongKong.Tel:22553838,http://www3.ha.org.hk/qmh.

Macau

KiangWuHospital,Estr.CoelhodoAmaral.Tel:28371333.

S.JanuárioHospital,Estr.doViscondedeS.Januário.Tel:28313731.

Shenzhen

ShenzhenPeople’sHospital,1017DongmenBeiLu.Tel:25533018.

Guangzhou

GuangzhouCanAmInternationalMedicalCentre,5/F,GardenHotel,368HuanshiDongLu.Tel:83866988,www.canamhealthcare.com.

GuangzhouNo.1People’sHospital,602RenminBeiLu.Tel:83992090.

I

Internet

Mosthotelschargeforin-roominternetservice.FreeWi-Fiaccessisbecomingmorewidespreadinhotels,andthegovernmentisbuildingacitywidefreeGovWiFinetwork.YoucanalsoaccessthewebforfreewithaWi-Ficodeinmanycoffeeshopsandsomerestaurantsandbars.

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Leftluggage

FacilitiesareavailableatHongKongAirport,andinKowloonatHungHomStationandtheHongKongChinaCityBuilding.

LGBTQtravellers

HongKongisstillfairlyconservative,andgaymarriageisnotyetanoptionintheterritory,butthere’sacosmopolitanLGBTQscene,scatteredaroundCentralandSoho.FormoreongaynightlifeinHongKongvisitwww.travelgayasia.com.

TheannualHongKongPrideParade(www.hkpride.net)andGayGames–tobeheldinHongKongin2022(www.gaygameshk2022.com)–alsohighlightthecity’slaissez-faireattitude.

Lostproperty

Toreportlostorstolenproperty,contacttheHongKongPolice.Call28602000tofindoutthelocationofthenearestpolicestation.Ifyouthinkyouleftyourpropertyinataxi,itmaybeworthcontactingthetaxilostpropertylinewhichwill–intheoryatleast,andforacharge–informalltaxidrivers.Tel:1872920.

Toreportalostcreditcard,callAmericanExpresson28116122,MasterCardon800-966-677andVisaon800-96-725.

M

Maps

TherearenumerousmapsavailableinHongKong.TheHongKongTourist

TherearenumerousmapsavailableinHongKong.TheHongKongTouristBoardprovideswelcomepacks(whichincludemaps)atairport,seaportandbordercrossingsfrommainlandChina.ThelaminatedInsightFleximapstoHongKong,Macau,ShenzhenandGuangzhouaredurable,detailedandeasytouse,andeachhasafullstreetindex.IfyouaretravellingintoChina,mapswithplacenamesinbothEnglishandChineseareuseful.IfyoucanpointataplacenamewritteninChinesewithafriendlysmile,manyamisunderstandingcanbeavoided.

Media

Newspapersandmagazines

HongKonghasalargenumberofnewspapersandmagazines,mostofwhicharepublishedinChinese.HongKongcontinuestoenjoyafreepressdespitebeingpartofChina,andtheterritoryisnotedasamediacentrefortheregion.

ByfarthemostinfluentialnewspaperinHongKongisthedailyEnglish-languageSouthChinaMorningPost.AsecondEnglishdaily,TheStandard,ishandedoutfreeonthestreets,MondaytoFriday.TwoofthemostpopularChinese-languagedailiesaretherathersensationalistOrientalDailyNewsandtheAppleDailyNews.

AlistingsmagazineworthlookingoutforisTimeOutHongKong(www.timeout.com/hongkong),publishedeveryfortnight.Touristswhowantanopinionatedinsider’sviewwillfindtherestaurant,clubandentertainmentreviewswortharead.TimeOutalsoincludesreviewsofeventsinMacau.

Radioandtelevision

OveradozenradiostationsarebroadcastinHongKong,thoughthereisnowonlyonededicatedEnglish-languagechannel,RTHK.SomeotherstationsofferanelementofprogramminginEnglish.TheBBCWorldServiceisavailable24hoursaday.Forlocalnews,HongKong’stwoTVstations,TVBandATV,eachbroadcastoneEnglish-languagechannelandoneChinese-languagechannel.IfyouarestayinginahotelyoushouldhaveaccesstoaselectionofregionalandinternationalbroadcastersinEnglishviacableandsatellite.

Money

TheHongKongdollaristhestandardunitofcurrencyandcomesindenominationsofHK$1,000,$500,$100,$50,$20and$10notesplusHK$10,$5,$2and$1coins.Thedollarisdividedinto100cents,andtherearecoinsof50¢,20¢and10¢denominations.ThedollarratefluctuatesagainstmostmajorinternationalcurrenciesbutitispeggedtotheUSdollaratapproximately7.8HongKongdollarstotheUSdollar.

Therearethreenote-issuingbanksinHongKong:HongkongandShanghaiBank,StandardCharteredBankandtheBankofChina.Mostbankswillexchangeforeigncurrencyandgenerallydisplayexchangeratesondigitalboards.Theyusuallyofferbetterratesthanthemoney-changersinthemajortouristareas,there’susuallyaHK$50chargeforasingletransaction.Cashmachinesareplentifulintheurbanareas,andallowthewithdrawaloflocalcurrencywithmostmajorcreditcards.

Macau’sofficialcurrency,thepataca(MOP$),isdividedinto100avos.Therearebanknotesindenominationsof1,000,500,100,50,20and10patacasand10,5,2,and1patacacoins.ThepatacaislinkedtotheHongKongdollar,whichisacceptedascurrencyinMacau.

HongKongdollarsarenotwidelyacceptedinGuangzhouandShenzhen,thoughsomeshopsmayacceptthecurrency,albeitatpunitiverates.It’sadvisabletochangeyourmoneyintorenminbi(RMB)beforeyouenterthemainland.Thebasicunitistheyuan,oftencalledkuai.Oneyuanisworth10jiao.Banknotescomein100,50,10,5and1yuandenominations;plus5,2and1jiao.

Tipping

TippingiscustomaryinHongKonginbars,restaurantsandhotels.A10-percentservicechargeisaddedtothebillinmanyrestaurants,butitisstillcustomarytoaddafurther5percenttogodirecttothestaff.Taxidriversdonotexpecttobetipped,butroundingupthefaretothenearestdollarortwoisappreciated.

InplacesfrequentedbytouristsinMacau,ShenzhenandGuangzhoutippingisincreasinglycommonpractice;followthesameguidelinesasHongKong.

O

Openinghours

Openinghours

OfficehoursinHongKongare9amto5.30pmor6pm.Smallshops,grocersandmarketsareopenbefore8am,butmajorstoresandshoppingcentresgenerallyopenaround10am.Banksopenbetween8.30amand4.30pm,buttimesmayvarybetweenbranchesandbanks.

WhileshopsinCentralcloseby7or8pm,elsewhereit’slate-nightshoppingeverynight.Inparticular,manyshopsinCausewayBay,TsimShaTsuiandMongKokstayopenuntil10or11pmsevendaysaweek,includingpublicholidays.

Barsandrestaurantsarefreetochoosetheirownopeningtimes.Thingsstarttoquietendowninthemainentertainmentdistrictsafter1am.Ifyouwanttodrinkandpartyallnightyouwillfindvenues.

InMacau,restaurantsandbarsareopenlate,butaftermidnightmostoftheactioniscentredaroundthe24-hourcasinos.InShenzhenandGuangzhoushopsandshoppingcentresareopenintheevening,andalthoughlocalsliketodineearly,therearemanyplacestoeatanddrinklateatnight.

Publicholidays

ThefactthatmanyHongKongresidentsworkafive-and-a-half-dayweekandhaveshortperiodsofannualleaveiscompensatedbyarelativelylargenumberofpublicholidayseveryyear–17intotal.Theseareasfollows:

1January:NewYear’sDay

January/February:LunarNewYear(three-dayholiday)

March/April:GoodFridayandEasterMonday;ChingMingFestival(5April)

May/June:DragonBoatFestival;Buddha’sBirthday(lunar);LabourDay(1May)

1July:SAREstablishmentDay

September/October:ThedayfollowingtheMid-AutumnFestival

1October:NationalDay

October:ChungYeungFestival

25December:Christmas(twodays).

Macau

AsforHongKong,butwithsomeadditionaldays:NationalDay(1October)isatwo-dayholidayinMacau.TherearepublicholidaysforAllSouls’DayinNovember,theFeastoftheImmaculateConceptionon8DecemberandtheWinterSolsticeon22December.TheMacauSpecialAdministrativeRegionEstablishmentDay(20December)replacesHongKong’s1Julyholiday.

China

TherearesevenofficialholidaysinChina.Twoofthesearethree-dayholidaysforLunarNewYearandNationalDay,thoughthesemorphintoafullweekwithstaffandschoolchildrenworkingoverthepriorweekendtogivethemselvesafullsevendaybreak.Theseperiodsareknownas“GoldenWeeks”,thoughconditionsareunpleasantfortravellersaspricesincreaseandtransportnetworksheave.Ifpossible,avoidtravellingtothemainlandatthesetimes:

1January:NewYear’sDay

LunarNewYear:officiallythreedays(Jan/Feb),butnearlyalloffices,banksandgovernmentdepartmentscloseforafullweek.

QingmingFestival:April4or5

1May:LabourDay,plustwofollowingdays

DragonBoatFestival:Fifthdayofthefifthlunarmonth(usuallyJune)

Mid-AutumnFestival:Mid-waythroughtheeightlunarmonth(usuallySeptember)

NationalDay:officiallythreedaysfromOctober1,butnearlyalloffices,banksandgovernmentdepartmentscloseforafullweek.

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Postalservices

Airmailstampsareavailablefromconveniencestoresandvendingmachinesoutsidepostoffices.TheGeneralPostOfficeinCentral,2ConnaughtRoad,alsosellsaselectionofcardsandgifts.

Mostpostofficesareopen9.30amto5pmMondaytoFridayand9.30amto1pmonSaturday.TheGeneralPostOfficeat2ConnaughtPlace,Central,isalsoopenfrom9amto5pmonSundaywhile,ontheKowloonside,theTsimShaTsuiPostOffice,locatedat10MiddleRoad,isopenSundays,9amto2pm.

Ifyouchoosetomailpresentsandpurchasesratherthancarrythemhome,HongKongPostischeap,efficientandcanalsocourierdocumentsandparcels.InHongKong,Macau,ShenzhenandGuangzhouhotelswillassistguestswithpostingmailandpackages.

InMacau,themainpostofficeislocatedinpicturesqueSenadoSquare.Ifyouaretemptedbyantiqueandreproductionfurniture,shopscanassistinarrangingshipping.ShenzhenshoppersrelyonthepostofficeonthegroundfloorattheLoWushoppingcentretoeasetheirburdenafterbargainhunting.InChinaitis

Wushoppingcentretoeasetheirburdenafterbargainhunting.InChinaitisprobablymuchsimplertousethepostalservicesatbusinessandtouristhotels.

S

Shopping

HongKonghasfrequentlybeencalledashopper’sparadise,anditiscertainlytruethatmostHongKongcitizensareinsatiableshoppers.Optionsrangefromcolourfulnightmarketsandglitzyshoppingmallstomulti-storeydepartmentstoresandbustlingnarrowstreetsfullofantiquesandbric-a-brac.HongKongmaynotbethebargainbasementitoncewas–indeedpricesinthemajormallsareoftenhigherthaninequivalentshopsintheWest–butshoppingmaynonethelessproveoneofthemostcompellingactivitiesofanytriptotheterritoryformanyvisitors.Thereiscertainlynoshortageofsupply.

Shoppingmalls

HongKong’smallsaredestinationsinthemselves,andarefullofcafésandrestaurantsinwhichtotakeabreak.Manyalsohousecinemasandentertainmentsuchasice-skatingrinks.Shoppinghoursvary,butgenerallycontinueuntillateeverydayoftheweek.Evenduringpublicholidaysmostshopsareopen,theexceptionbeingduringtheweekofChineseNewYear.Asaguide,shopsinCentralclosearound7pm,buttheothermainareastendtostayopenuntil10pm,sometimesevenlater.Thesalesstartinmid-tolateJuneandDecember.MallsarelandmarksinHongKong.Taxidriverswillrecognisetheirnamesratherthanthestreettheyareon,andmostarepartofanMTRstationdevelopment.

Smoking

SmokingremainsanintegralpartofsomeaspectsofChineseculture,thoughitspopularityseemstobeonthedeclineinHongKong.Healthinfomercialsregularlywarnofthedangersofthepractice,andablanketbanonsmokinginallindoorplaces–restaurants,barsandclubsincluded–hasbeeninplacesince2009.Somenightlifevenuesdoturnablindeyeandtobaccocontrolinspectorsarekeptbusyissuingfines.

Studenttravellers

Studenttravellers

Studentsovertheageof11yearsdonotbenefitfrommanytraveldiscountsinHongKong,Macauandthemainland.Someculturaleventsofferslightlyreducedticketpricesforstudentswithidentification.

T

Telephones

HongKongiswellknownforhavingoneofthemostadvancedtelecommunicationssystemsintheworld.Virtuallytheentirenetworkconsistsoffibre-opticcablingwithdigitalswitching,whichmeansawholehostofadvancedtelecommunicationsservicesareavailabletolocalusers.

Internationalcalls

Allhotelsofferinternationaldirect-dialservicesataninflatedprice.

Internationaldiallingcodes:

HongKong:852

Macau:853

Shenzhen:86-755

Guangzhou:86-20

InHongKong:

DirectoryAssistance:1081(inEnglish)

CollectCalls:10010

Internationaldirectoryenquiries/overseasnumbers:10013

Internationalaccesscodes:

AT&T:800961111

MCI:800961121

Sprint:800961877.

Localcalls

Localtelephonecallsarefreeofcharge,soitmaybepossibletousethetelephoneinshops,barsandrestaurantsthathavealandline.Manyshoppingmallsandconveniencestoresevenhaveacomplimentaryphoneforcustomerstouse.Mosthotelschargeforlocalcallsfromguestrooms.

Mobilephones

HongKonghasoneofthehighestratesofmobile-phoneownership–at235percentthereareovertwicemorephonesubscribersthanresidents.MobilephonescanberentedatHongKongInternationalAirport.Toavoidroamingchanges,youcanbuypre-paidSIMcardswithaHongKongnumberandafixednumberofminutesfromconveniencestoresorthetelephonecompanies’shops.Thesecardsarecompatiblewithtri-bandanddual-bandphones.MobilescanbeusedontheMTRsubwaysystem.

Publicphones

Publicphoneboothsarebecomingincreasinglyrare.ItgenerallycostsHK$1forfiveminutes,andcallscanbepaidbyphonecardorcoins.Stored-valuephonecardsareavailablefromretailstoresoftelephonecompaniesandconveniencestores.

Timezone

HongKong,Macau,ShenzhenandGuangzhoualloperateonthesametimezone(Beijingtime).ThisisGMT+8hours(EST+13hours).Thereisnodaylightsavingstime,sofromearlyApriltolateOctober,whenEuropeandAmericaputtheirclocksforwardbyonehour,HongKongissevenhoursaheadofLondonandtwelvehoursaheadofNewYork.

Toilets

ToiletfacilitiesattouristattractionsinHongKongaregenerallyclean,wellmaintainedandalwaysfreeofchargetouse.Publictoiletsinotherlocationsareofavariablestandard,andsoapandpapermaybeabsent.Tobeonthesafeside,alwayscarryasmallpackoftissues.Shoppingcentresandrestaurantsusually

alwayscarryasmallpackoftissues.Shoppingcentresandrestaurantsusuallyhavecleanfacilities.

TherearefewpublictoiletstobefoundinMacau,andcleanpublictoiletsareararityinShenzhen.However,inrecentyearsGuangzhouhasopenedsomeacceptablenewpublictoilets,completewithstarrating.Patronsmustpayasmallfeeofoneortwoyuan.

Touristinformation

TheHongKongTourismBoard(HKTB)istheofficialgovernment-sponsoredbodyrepresentingthetourismindustryofHongKong,andoffersmanyusefulservicesandhelpfulpublications.HKTBalsoprovidesinformationpacksfortouristsarrivingattheairportandthelandcrossingatLoWu.Out-of-hourscomputerterminalsprovide24-houraccesstotheexcellentwww.discoverhongkong.comwebsite.

AttheHKTB’sVisitorInformationandServicesCentresyoucanpickupusefulpublicationsincludingtheweeklyHongKongDiaryandthemonthlyOfficialHongKongMap.AGuidetoQualityShopsandRestaurantsisahandy(butdense)bookthatlistsallestablishmentsthathavebeenaccreditedbytheHKTB’sQTSscheme,andincludesspecialoffersandvouchersthatareexclusivetovisitors.Thecentresalsoprovideatour-reservationserviceforselectedtours,andstockaninterestingselectionofsouvenirs.

HKTBvisitorcentres

InternationalAirport:(onlyaccessibletoarrivingvisitors),HallsAandB,ArrivalsLevel,Terminal1,8am–9pmdaily

LoWuTerminalBuilding:ArrivalHall,2/F,8am–6pmdaily

HongKongIsland:PeakPiazza(betweenThePeakTowerandThePeakGalleria),11am–8pmdaily

Kowloon:StarFerrypier,TsimShaTsui,8am–8pmdaily

VisitorHotline(multilingual):25081234,9am–6pmdaily

Touristinformationisavailableatwww.discoverhongkong.com.

CTSoffices

ChinaTravelService(CTS)isChina’sstatetravelagencyandcanarrangetours,ticketsandvisasfortraveltothemainland,althoughCTSofficesdonotprovideatouristinformationservice.

HongKong:G/F,CTSHouse,78–83ConnaughtRoad,Central.Tel:28533533.

Kowloon:1/F,AlphaHouse,27–33NathanRoad,TsimShaTsui.Tel:23157171.

Macau

TheMacauGovernmentTouristOfficerunsofficesattheMacauferryterminalinHongKonganduponarrivalinMacau.ThereisalsoatouristinformationcentreontheLargodoSenadosquare,open9am–6pmdaily.Visitorscancontactthetouristhotline(853)28333000orviewthewebsitewww.macautourism.gov.mo.

Touristofficesoverseas

HongKongisthemostvisitedcityinAsia,andtheHKTBhasofficesinSydney,London,Paris,Frankfurt,LosAngeles,NewYork,Tokyo,Osaka,Seoul,SingaporeandTaipei.TherearealsoHKTBofficesinBeijing,Shanghai,ChengduandGuangzhou.www.discoverhongkong.com.

Australia

Level4,HongKongHouse,80DruittStreet,Sydney,NSW2000

Tel:61292833083

Fax:61292833383

UnitedKingdom

2ndFloor,20OrangeStreet,LondonWC2H7EF

Tel:442073215380

UnitedStates

115East54thStreet,2ndFloor,NewYork,NY10022

115East54thStreet,2ndFloor,NewYork,NY10022

Tel:12124213382.

V

Visasandpassports

NationalsofmostWesterncountriesdonotrequireavisaforentrytoHongKongorMacau,butyouwillneedoneifyouplantovisitmainlandChina.

ForthosetakingupemploymentinHongKong,itisnecessarytoobtainaworkpermitfromtheImmigrationDepartment,usuallyinadvanceofenteringtheterritory.Yourcompanyshouldbeabletoassistwiththenecessarypaperwork.HongKongresidentsshouldcarryaHongKongidentitycard,whichisissuedbytheImmigrationDepartment.

Allothervisitorsaresupposedtocarryphotographicidentitysuchasapassportwiththem,butitisunlikelythatyouwillbestoppedbypoliceofficersandaskedtoproduceidentification.

Chinesevisas

VisasforChinaareissuedattheOfficeoftheCommissioneroftheMinistryofForeignAffairs,3/FChinaResourcesBldg,26HarbourRd,WanChai;tel:34132424www.fmcoprc.gov.hk/eng/.Visaapplicationsaremadeontheseventhfloor.Twophotosarerequired.Abasicsingle-entryvisacostsHK$200buthigher,“reciprocal”chargesaremadetocitizensof25countries,theUSandUKincluded.ABritishcitizenwillpayHK$360whileanAmericanwillpayHK$1,100.Visasareprocessedinaboutthreedaysthoughexpressservicesareavailable.Chinavisas

canalsobeobtainedthroughmostHongKongtravelagents,includingtheHongKongofficesoftheChinaTravelService(CTS).Thetwomainofficesareat1/F,ChinaTravelBldg,77Queen’sRoadCentral;tel:25220450,andat1/F,AlphaHouse,27NathanRoad,TsimShaTsui,tel:23157106,24-hourhotline34132300.www.ctshk.com.

IfyouareplanningashorttriptoShenzhen,citizensoftheUK,Canada,Australiaandseveralothernationscanapplyforafive-dayvisaonarrivalwhencrossingthemainlandborder.ThevisaofficeatLoWu(Lohu)keepsthelongestofficehoursandmostreliablestaff.VisasgenerallycostRMB168,butthepriceishikedtomorethanRMB400forBritishpassportholders,makingitmoreeconomicaltoapplyforaregularChinavisa.ThevisaonarrivaloptionisnotopentoAmericancitizens.

IfyouplanonvisitingHongKongasasidetripfromthemainland,makesurethatyouhaveadouble-ormultiple-entryChinavisa.

W

Weightsandmeasures

Imperial,metricandtraditionalChinesemeasuresarealllegallyacceptedweightsandmeasuresinHongKong.Distanceismostoftenmeasuredinkilometres.ClothesandshoesalsomixAsian,European,BritishandUSsizings.

VitalStatistics

Area:TheHongKongSpecialAdministrativeRegioncoversatotalareaof1,103sqkm(426sqmiles),comprisingHongKongIsland,theKowloonpeninsula,theNewTerritoriesand262outlyingislands.

Geography:HongKongliesonalatitudeof22°15North(similartoKolkataandHavana)andalongitudeof114°10East.

Population:HongKong’spopulationisjustover7.2million,andpopulationdensityis6,544peoplepersqkm(16,948persqmile).Ofthehalfamillionorsonon-ChineselivinginHongKong,thethreebiggestgroupsarethe184,100Filipinos,153,300Indonesians,andthe32,000orsoUSpassport-holders.

UnderstandingtheLanguage

HongKong’sofficiallanguagesareChineseandEnglish.ThemainChinesedialectisCantonese,spokenbyalmost90percentofthepopulationandaninseparablepartofthesoundandrhythmofthecity.MandarinChinese(Putonghua),theofficiallanguageofthePeople’sRepublicofChina,isincreasinglyimportant,reflectingexponentialrisesintouristnumbersandlong-termresidentsfromthemainland.MostHongKongersincustomer-facingjobscanspeakpassableMandarinandsomehaveclaimedthishasgonehand-in-handwithanequivalentdeclineinthestandardsofEnglish.

TherearenumerousdialectsorvarietiesofChinesethatsharegrammaticalsimilaritiesandthesamebasicwritingform,buttheyarenotmutuallyintelligibleinspokenform.Ofthese,MandarinandCantonesearethemostimportant.

CantoneseisspokeninHongKong,MacauandmostoftheneighbouringprovinceofGuangdong,aswellaspartsofGuangxi.OutsideChina,CantoneseisthemostwidelyspokenformofChineseduetothehistoryofworldwidemigrationfromHongKonganditsneighbouringprovinces.

HongKongpeopleuseastandardformofChinesewhentheywrite,orinabusinesssituation,butspeakcolloquialCantoneseineverydayconversation.Thislanguageisrichinslang,andsomespokenwordsdonothavecharacters.

ToconfusetheChineselearnerfurther,HongKong(likeTaiwan)usesaslightlydifferentstyleofcharacterstotherestofChina.DuringreformsinitiatedbyMaointhe1950stoincreaseliteracy,thePRCsimplifieditscharacters.HencethecharactersusedonthemainlandarereferredtoasSimplifiedChinesewhileHongKong’smorecomplexcharactersarecalledTraditionalChinese.ManyChinesecancomfortablyreadbothscriptsbutthewayapersonwriteswilltendtodependonwhichsideofthemainlandbordertheywereborn.

Tones

Ifallthiswasnotenoughtomaster,manyanenthusiasticlinguisthasbeendefeatedbyCantonesetones.ToneisnotusedwithinasentencetoindicatestressasinmanyEuropeanlanguages;instead,eachwordhasadistinctpitchthatgoeshigher,lowerorstaysflatwithineachword.AmongtheCantonesethereisnorealagreementastohowmanytonesthereare–somesayasmanyasnine–butmostpeopleusesixindailylife(whichmakesPutonghua’sfourtonesseemmoreaccessible).

TheJyutpingtransliterationsystemdevisedbytheLinguisticSocietyofHongKongclassifiesthesixmaintonesas:1,highfalling/highflat;2,highrising;3,middle;4,lowfalling;5,lowrising;6,low.Forthenewlearner,justhittingthreetonestoboosttheirintelligibilityisatriumph.

Eachwordhasonesyllable,andisrepresentedbyonedistinctcharacter.Awordismadeupofthreesoundelements.Aninitialeg,“f”,plusafinalsoundeg“an”,plusatone.

Toneisanessentialpartofeachword.Afewrarewordsjusthaveafinalsoundandatone,eg“m”in“mgoi”(thankyou).

Therefore,whencombinedwithatone,“fan”hassevendistinctandcontradictorymeanings:todivide(highrising1);flour(highfalling2);toteach(middleflat3);fragrant(highflat1);agrave(lowfalling4);energetic(lowrising5);andashare(lowflat5).

Thewealthofsound-alikewords(homonyms)thatcanbeeasilymispronouncedplayapartinmanyCantonesetraditionsandthedevelopmentofslang.However,forthevisitorornewlearnertonesmeanthatutterbafflementisacommonreactiontoyourattemptsimplytosaythenameoftheroadyouwishtovisit.PersevereandattempttomimicthewayaCantonesespeakersayseachpartofthephrase.

Pronunciationjasinthe“y”ofyapzissimilartothesoundinbeigeorjarorthezhinGuangzhoucasinchipauasinhoweiasinwayaiasinbuyouasinnoiasinheNumbers

onejat

twoji

threesaam

foursei

fiveng

sixluk

sevencat

eightbaat

ninegau

tensap

elevensapjattwelvesapjitwentyjisaptwenty-onejisapjatonehundredbaakzeroling

140jatseiling235jisaamngCommonwordsandphrases

Goodmorningzousan(joesan)GoodafternoonngonGoodnightzoutauGoodbyebaibaiHello(onphone)wai!

Thankyou(service)mgoiThankyou(gift)dozeYou’rewelcomeMsaimgoiNoproblemmoumantaiHowareyou?Neihoumaa?(neighhomarr)Fine,thankyougayho,yausumHaveyoueaten?sikzoufaanmeia?

Yeshai

nomhai

OKhouaa

so-somama

Mynameis…ngorgeeuyesterdaykumyuttodaygumyuttomorrowtingyutNouns

hotelzaudimkeysosi

managerginglei

roomhaakfongtelephonedinwatoiletciso

banknganhongpostofficeyaujinggukpassportwuziurestaurantzaantengbarzauba

busbasi

taxidiksi

trainfoze

QuestionsQuestionsareoftenfollowedby“a”

Who?bingoa?

Where?bindoa?

When?geisia?

Why?dimgaaia?

Howmany?geidoa?

Howmuchdoesthatcost?geidorchina?

Doyouhave…?yaumo…a?

WhattimeisthetraintoGuangzhou…?Guangzhougeforche,gaydimhoya?

Peoplemothermaamaafatherbaabaasonzai

daughterneoibabybebe

friendpangjauboyfriendnaampangjaugirlfriendneoipangjauhusbandlougungwifeloupo

Adjectivessmallsui

bigdai

goodho

badmmho

expensivegwaicheappeng

thinsau

fatfei

slowmaan

fastfaai

pretty/beautifullenghotjit

colddung

very…hou…

verycoldhoudungdelicioushosickTaxis

taxidiksi

Pleasetakemetomgoycheyngorhur-ee.

straightonjickhur-eelefthaijorbinrighthaiyaubinHealthandemergencies

Ihave(a)…ngo…

headachetautungstomachachetoutungtoothachengatungcoughkausaufeverfaatsuiflugammou

IhaveaheadachengotautungIamsickngojaubengdoctorjisangnursewusi

ambulancegausurngchepolicegingchaatFoodanddrink

breakfastzoucaanlunchngcaandinnermaancaaneatsikfaan

ricefaan

boiledricebaakfaanfriedricecaufaannoodlesmin

vegetablescoimeatjuk

beefngaujukporkzyutjuklambjoengjukchickengai

prawnha

fishjyu

teaca

coffeegaafeiwatersur-ee

beerbezau

white/redwinebaak/hungzauIamavegetarianngosikzaaiMybill,please!maaidaan,mgoi!

alittleseeuseeuenoughgaulaGlossary

Amahbag–largeblue,redandwhitebagfavouredbyelderlywomenwhocancarrymorethantheirbodyweightinsideonestripybag,alsopopularwithmigrantworkersandthosemovinghouse.

Astronaut–apersonwholives,worksorstudiesinadifferentcontinenttotheirimmediatefamilymembers.AcommonphenomenoninHongKong.

ChaChaanTeng–akaHongKongCafé.Servesupcomfortfoodthatincludesthelocaltakeonforeigncuisines.Milkisalwaysofthe

condensedorevaporatedvariety.

ChineseTea-greenorblackteawithoutmilk.

Chop–self-inkedstampusedforsigningdocuments.

DaiPaiDong–literallymeans“biglicenceplace”,areferencetothesizeofthelicencerequiredbytheseoutdoorfoodstalls.Outdoorseatingexpandssimplybyaddingmoreplasticstoolsandfold-uptables.ServesinexpensiveCantonesefarefromenormouswoksinano-frillsenvironment.

F.I.L.T.H.–“FailedInLondon,TryHongKong,”aderogatoryreferencetoBritonsinHongKong.

Godown–awarehouse.

Gweilo–whitedevil,foreigner.

Hawker–someonesellinggoodsfromastall,sometimeslicensedsometimesnot.

Helper–alwaysmeansadomestichelperormaid.Theterm“amah”israrelyusedexceptinreferencetoholdalls.

LaiSee–“luckymoney,”givenatweddingsandLunarNewYear.

Junk–traditionalsquare-sailedChinesevessel.Thetermisalsousedforanyvesselhiredfora“junkparty”.

Kaido(Gaido)–smallcargoboatorferry.

Kowloontaxi–ataxiwhosedriverclaimsnoknowledgeofstreetsormajorbuildingsonHongKongIsland.

Legco–HongKong’sgoverningbody,onlypartiallyelected.

Lunchbox–notfilledwithapackedlunchfromhome,butapolystyreneboxoffooddeliveredtotheworkplace.

Mark6–thelottery,achancetowinmillionsforjustHK$20.

MTR–masstransitrailway–HongKong’strainsystem.

Octopuscard–pre-paidtransportcard,alsousedasadebitcard.

Sampan–smallboat,withmotorattheback,usuallydrivenbyanelderlyman.

SAR–SpecialAdministrativeRegion(ofChina).

TaiTai–housewife,amarriedwoman,especiallyladieswholunch.

FurtherReading

Fiction

Clavell,James.Taipan.Theriseofaninfluential19th-centuryBritishmerchantfamilyinHongKong.

Gao,Xingjian.OneMan’sBible.NobelPrize-winningauthor’staleaboutamaninHongKongrecallinghisyouthinMao’sChina.

Gardam,Jane.OldFilth.PoignantandattimesamusingtaleofaHongKongjudgewhoretirestotheUKandrecallshislifeinthelawinHongKong,andasaRajorphan.

Mason,Richard.TheWorldofSuzieWong.AnEnglishartistfallsinlovewithalocallassinthebookthatmadeWanChaifamous.

Mo,Timothy.TheMonkeyKing.AbrilliantaccountofadysfunctionalfamilylivingincolonialHongKong.

Morris,Jan.HongKong.Wonderfullyinsightfultextfromthedoyenneofmoderntravelwriters.

Row,Jess.TheTraintoLoWu.HighlyacclaimedphilosophicalshortstoriesaboutHongKong,thisbookisunusualandthought-provoking.

HistoryandcurrentaffairsBooth,Martin.Gweilo:MemoriesofaHongKongChildhood.Athoroughlyenjoyablememoir,

amusingandaffectionate.

Chamberlain,Jonathan.KingHui:TheManWhoownedalltheOpiuminHongKong.ThisbiographyspansmostofHongKong’s20thcenturywiththeadventuresofasometimeplayboy,brigand,gambler,smuggler,businessman,teacherandspy.HuiKingcertainlyledaninterestinglife.

Coates,Austin.MyselfaMandarin.Evocativememoirsof1950sHongKong.

Keay,John.TheEndofEmpireintheFarEast.ExploresthelegacyoftheBritishEmpireinAsiawithsomefascinatingdetail,andanewafterwordontheremarkabledevelopmentoftheChineseeconomy.

Sinclair,Kevin.TellMeaStory:FortyYearsofNewspaperinginHongKongandChina.PlentyofbarroomtalesandtheinsidestoryofhowtherecenthistoryofHongKongunfolded,fromtheSAR’sbest-knownjournalist.

Tsang,Steve.AModernHistoryofHongKong.Thisdetailed,up-to-datehistoryoftheterritoryhasbecomethemostauthoritativegeneralhistoryyetpublished.

Vines,Stephen.HongKong:China’sNewColony.Athoroughoverviewoftheeconomy,mediaandpoliticalset-upofmodernHongKong.

Welsh,Frank.AHistoryofHongKong.Asocial,economicandpoliticalhistoryoftheterritory.

Wordie,Jason.Streets.AfascinatingguidetothehistoryofindividualstreetsonHongKongIsland.

Nature/walkingguides

Spurrier,Pete.TheLeisurelyHiker’sGuidetoHongKong.EasywalksaroundHongKong’shills.Aguideformoreserioushikingisalsoavailable.

Stokes,Edward.ExploringHongKong’sCountryside:AVisitor’sCompanion;TheWilsonTrail:HikingAcrossHongKong;HongKong’sWildPlaces:AnEnvironmentalExploration.ThesebooksexplorethescenicbeautyoftheHongKongcountryside.

Williams,Martin.HongKongPathfinder.23walksinruralHongKong.

Macau

Jackson,Annabel.PortugueseCuisineontheChinaCoast.ThebestbookonMacau’suniquefusioncuisine,with62recipes.

Porter,Jonathan.Macau:TheImaginaryCity:CultureandSociety,1577toPresent.RecommendedtoanyonewhoisinterestedinlearningmoreaboutMacau.

China

Becker,Jasper.TheChinese.FineanalysisofcontemporaryChinaandwhatmakesthecountrytick.

Simons,Rowan.BambooGoalposts.Theentertainingstoryofoneman’squesttoteachthePRCtolovefootball,writtenbyaUK-bornBeijingtelevisionpresenter.

Watts,Jonathan.WhenaBillionChineseJump:VoicesFromtheFrontlineofClimateChange.DispatchesbytheGuardian‘sformerChinamanofferasalutarytakeontheMiddleKingdom’sacutepollutionproblems.

OtherInsightGuides

InsightGuidespublishesnumerousotherguidestotheregion,includingInsightGuideChina,cityguidesBeijingandShanghai,ExploreHongKongandExperienceHongKong.

HongKongStreetAtlas

ThekeymapshowstheareaofHongKongcoveredbytheatlassection.