INNOVATIVE LOW COSTBUILDING TECHNIQUES

PRESENTED BY : ARVA HUSAIN

MAYUR GOYAL NIMISHA GOYAL

ADOBE

ADOBE IS BASICALLY JUST DIRT THAT HAS BEEN MOISTENED WITH WATER, SOMETIMES CHOPPED STRAW OR OTHER FIBERS ARE ADDED FOR STRENGTH, AND THEN ALLOWED TO DRY.

STRAW HELPS WHEN THERE IS TOO MUCH CLAY TO KEEP THE BRICKS FROM CRACKING AS THEY DRY.

COMMONLY ADOBE IS SHAPED INTO UNIFORM BLOCKS THAT CAN BE STACKED LIKE BRICKS TO FORM WALLS. ADOBE BLOCKS CAN BE FORMED BY POURING IT INTO MOLDS AND ALLOWING IT TO DRY, OR IT CAN PRESSED INTO BLOCKS WITH A HYDRAULIC PRESS.

THE BEST ADOBE SOIL HAS ABOUT 30% CLAY IN IT TO BIND THE MATERIAL TOGETHER, WITH THE REST BEING MOSTLY SAND OR LARGER AGGREGATE.

SOMETIMES ADOBE IS STABILIZED WITH A SMALL AMOUNT OF CEMENT OR ASPHALT EMULSION ADDED TO KEEP IT INTACT WHERE IT WILL BE SUBJECT TO EXCESSIVE WEATHER. ADOBE WITH ABOUT 4% ASPHALT IS QUITE WATERPROOF.

WHEN ADOBE IS USED AS AN EXTERIOR PLASTER IT IS EITHER STABILIZED OR REPLASTERED ON A REGULAR BASIS. ADOBE PAINTS NICELY WITH OIL OR LATEX PAINTS.

ADOBE IS A GOOD THERMAL MASS MATERIAL, HOLDING HEAT AND COOL WELL. IT DOES NOT INSULATE WELL, SO WALLS MADE OF ADOBE NEED SOME MEANS OF PROVIDING INSULATION TO MAINTAIN COMFORT IN THE BUILDING. SOMETIMES THIS IS ACCOMPLISHED BY CREATING A DOUBLE WALL, WITH AN AIR SPACE, THIS CAVITY IS THEN FILLED WITH LOOSE INSULATING MATERIALS.

EXTERIOR INSULATION IS ALSO PROVIDED USUALLY IT IS RIGID POLYSTYRENE OR POLYURETHANE NAILED OR SPRAYED ON THE WALLS.

ADOBE IS A GOOD THERMAL MASS MATERIAL, HOLDING HEAT AND COOL WELL. IT DOES NOT INSULATE WELL, SO WALLS MADE OF ADOBE NEED SOME MEANS OF PROVIDING INSULATION TO MAINTAIN COMFORT IN THE BUILDING. SOMETIMES THIS IS ACCOMPLISHED BY CREATING A DOUBLE WALL, WITH AN AIR SPACE, THIS CAVITY IS THEN FILLED WITH LOOSE INSULATING MATERIALS.

EXTERIOR INSULATION IS ALSO PROVIDED USUALLY IT IS RIGID POLYSTYRENE OR POLYURETHANE NAILED OR SPRAYED ON THE WALLS.

ADOBE WORKS WELL IN COLD AND DRY CLIMATE BECAUSE OF ITS PROPERTY OF ABSORBING MOISTURE FROM THE ATMOSPHERE HENCE IT DOES NOT WORK WELL IN AREAS HAVING HIGH PRECIPITATION.

ADOBE BUILDINGS MUST HAVE SUBSTANTIAL EAVES TO PROTECT THE WALLS FROM THE RAIN WATER .

ADOBE WALLS REQUIRE A GOOD FOUNDATION WITH A CONCRETE OR BLOCK STEM WALL THAT GETS EIGHT INCHES ABOVE THE FINISHED GRADE FINISHING IT OFF WITH A GOOD PITCHED ROOF WITH AT LEAST TWELVE OR SIXTEEN INCHES OF OVERHANG KEEPS THE ADOBE WALLS FINE.

ONCE ERECTED ADOBE WALLS MUST BE EXPOSED TO ATLEAST THREE WEEKS OF SUNLIGHT TO GIVE IT ENOUGH HEAT TO DRY .USUALLY ADOBE ACHIEVES MAXIMUM STRENGTH IN ABOUT 60% HUMIDITY ATMOSPHERE.

IT HAS A SPECIFIC HEAT OF 0.2 WHICH IS THE SAME AS CONCRETE, STONE, BRICK BUT ADOBE ALSO HAS A WONDERFUL COEFFICIENT OF HEAT DIFFUSIVITY WHICH RESULTS IN ITS RELEASING HEAT MORE SLOWLY THAN THE OTHER MATERIALS WHICH ALL

HAVE HIGHER DIFFUSIVITY. HENCE ADOBE WORKS WELL IN COLD BUT DRY CLIMATE.

DRILLING HOLES THROUGH THE ADOBE BLOCKS WOULD EITHER WEAKEN, OR MORE LIKELY ACTUALLY CRACK THE ADOBE .HENCE LARGE OPENINGS IN THE ADOBE WALLS IS NOT DESIRABLE.

ADOBES CAN BE DRIED RIGHT ON TOP OF THE QUACK GRASS. THE FIRST TIME AROUND THE GRASS IMBEDDED IN THE BOTTOM OF THE ADOBES MAKE IT HARD TO LIFT THE ADOBES OR THE BOTTOM IS PULLED OFF. BUT LATER, THE GRASS QUITS BEING A PROBLEM . A LOT OF MOISTURE IN THE ADOBES IS LOST DOWNWARD INTO THE GROUND. THE WICKING ACTION OF THE GROUND IS ACTUALLY EQUAL TO THE DRYING ACTION OF SUN AND WIND AT THE TOP.

CORDWOOD

CORDWOOD CONSTRUCTION UTILIZES SHORT, ROUND PIECES OF WOOD, SIMILAR TO WHAT WOULD NORMALLY BE CONSIDERED FIREWOOD. FOR THIS REASON THIS METHOD OF BUILDING CAN BE VERY RESOURCE EFFICIENT, SINCE IT MAKES USE OF WOOD THAT DOES NOT HAVE MUCH OTHER VALUE.

CORDWOOD BUILDING CAN ALSO CREATE A WALL THAT HAS BOTH PROPERTIES OF INSULATION AND THERMAL MASS.

THE MASS COMES FROM THE MASONRY MORTAR THAT IS USED TO CEMENT THE LOGS TOGETHER, AND THE INSULATION COMES FROM THE WOOD ITSELF AND THE CENTRAL CAVITY BETWEEN THE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE MORTARS.

CORDWOOD WALLS REQUIRE A POST AND BEAM OR SIMILAR SUPPORTING STRUCTURE AND THEN CORDWOOD IS USED AS AN INFILL, EVEN THOUGH THE CORDWOOD METHOD CREATES A VERY STRONG WALL THAT COULD SUPPORT A CONSIDERABLE LOAD.

THE PROCESS OF BUILDING IS SIMILAR TO LAYING ROCKS IN MORTAR, WHERE THE LOGS ARE ALIGNED WITH THEIR ENDS STICKING OUT TO CREATE THE SURFACE OF THE WALL AND MORTAR IS APPLIED ADJACENT TO EACH END OF THE LOG.

TYPICALLY THE LOGS ARE NOT COATED WITH A MOISTURE BARRIER, BUT ARE ALLOWED TO BREATH NATURALLY.

IT IS POSSIBLE TO INCLUDE OTHER MATERIALS INTO THE MATRIX, SUCH AS BOTTLE ENDS THAT WOULD PROVIDE LIGHT TO ENTER INTO THE CORDWOOD WALL.

CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO HAVE LARGE EAVES TO KEEP WATER AWAY FROM THE WALL.

CORDWOOD CONSTRUCTION IS NOT SUITABLE FOR HOT AND DRY AREAS AS THE WOOD WILL DRY AND EVENTUALLY CRACK A BIT.

CORDWOOD IS NATURALLY QUITE INSULATING AGAINST THE COLD AND THE HEAT, DOES NOT REQUIRE MAINTENANCE OVER TIME, IS PRETTY TO LOOK AT, EASY TO CONSTRUCT.

WOODS THAT CAN BE USED FOR CORDWOOD CONSTRUCTION ARE COTTONWOOD WHICH IS A ‘SOFT’ HARDWOOD ,POPLAR, RED AND WHITE CEDAR TREES AND WOOD OF DECIDUOUS TREES.

USE OF LIGHT AND AIRY WOODS IS RECOMMENDED, AS OPPOSED TO DENSE HARD WOODS. THE LIGHTER WEIGHT WOODS WILL BE BETTER AS INSULATION, AND THEY WILL BE MORE STABLE WITH REGARD TO EXPANSION AND CONTRACTION (SHRINKAGE).

CAST EARTH

CAST EARTH IS THE INVENTION OF HARRIS LOWENHAUPT OF PHOENIX, ARIZONA. HE BECAME FASCINATED WITH THE IDEA OF MAKING EARTHEN HOMES CASTABLE.INSTEAD OF MAKING INDIVIDUAL EARTHEN BLOCKS FOR BUILDING, OR INTENSIVELY RAMMING EARTH INTO FORMS ,HE WANTED TO BE ABLE TO JUST POUR THE PLASTIC EARTHEN MATERIAL INTO A FORM AND HAVE IT SET UP VERY QUICKLY, WITHIN A DAY!

STRUTURE WITH CAST EARTH CONTRUCTION

HE STARTED EXPERIMENTING WITH ADDING PLASTER OF PARIS TO EARTH, AND FOUND THAT ABOUT 15% OF THE GYPSUM WOULD MAKE A VERY SOLID BLOCK. THIS WORKED FINE FOR VERY SMALL PROJECTS, BUT FOR LARGER WALLS IT SET UP WAY TOO QUICKLY (WITHIN MINUTES). SO HE LOOKED FOR RETARDING AGENTS THAT COULD BE ADDED TO THE MIX TO SLOW DOWN THE SETUP TIME.

IN THE EARLY 1990'S, HE CAME UP WITH A PROMISING MIX THAT ALLOWED ABOUT TWO HOURS OF WORKING TIME .SINCE THEN HE HAS REFINED THE PROCESS TO ALLOW SETUP TIMES OF OVER EIGHT HOURS, WHICH MAKES POSSIBLE VERY LARGE SCALE BUILDING PROJECTS.

FORMWORK USED FOR THE CAST EARTH CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUE

THE COMPRESSIVE STRENGTH OF CAST EARTH IS ABOUT THE SAME AS ADOBE OR RAMMED EARTH, SUFFICIENT TO SUPPORT MOST CONVENTIONAL BUILDING LOADS.

THE TENSILE STRENGTH, IS SEVERAL TIMES GREATER THAN THESE MATERIALS, WHICH MAKES IT MUCH STRONGER AND PERHAPS MORE DURABLE.

CAST EARTH DOES NOT SHRINK AS IT CURES (IT ACTUALLY EXPANDS SLIGHTLY), MAKING IT MUCH LESS LIKELY TO CRACK. LIKE OTHER EARTHEN MATERIALS, IT WILL ABSORB MOISTURE, BUT IT RETAINS ENOUGH STRENGTH, EVEN WHEN SATURATED, TO MAINTAIN ITS STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY.

THE THERMAL PROPERTIES OF CAST EARTH ARE SIMILAR TO OTHER EARTHEN MATERIALS: IT MAKES FOR EXCELLENT THERMAL MASS, BUT HAS LITTLE VALUE AS AN INSULATOR, EXCEPT THAT BECAUSE THE WALLS ARE GENERALLY QUITE

THICK, SO IT TAKES MANY HOURS FOR ATMOSPHERIC TEMPERATURES TO APPROACH THE INTERIOR PORTIONS OF THE WALL. FOR THIS REASON IT WOULD BE BEST TO PROVIDE SOME INSULATION IN THE WALL SYSTEM WHERE EXTREMES OF TEMPERATURES

LOOSE INSULATION MATERIALS

COULD BE FILLED INSIDE THECAST EARTH WALL

CONSTRUCTION

ARE FOUND.

EXTERIOR INSULATION, COULD BE DONE, OR IT IS ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMBED THE LOOSE INSULATION MATERIAL WITHIN THE WALL AT THE TIME OF POURING CAST EARTH, AS SHOWN IN THE LEFT.

COSTS OF BUILDING WITH CAST EARTH ARE USUALLY LOWER THAN ADOBE OR RAMMED EARTH

UNDER VARIOUS CONDITIONS THE COST MAY BE COMPETITIVE WITH FRAME WALLS. THESE CONDITIONS INCLUDE SIZE OF PROJECT, CHOICE OF EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR FINISHING (UNFINISHED CAST EARTH IS RICHLY TEXTURED AND AESTHETICALLY BEAUTIFUL).

LIFETIME COSTS ARE SUBSTANTIALLY LESS BECAUSE OF THE HIGH ENERGY EFFICIENCY AND LOW MAINTENANCE EXPENSES OF EARTH WALLS.

CAST EARTH PROJECT WILL BE ABOUT ONE HALF TO THREE QUARTERS THE COST OF RAMMED EARTH OR ADOBE. FOR LARGE JOBS, OR MULTIPLE BUILDINGS , THE ECONOMIES OF SCALE OF MECHANIZED BUILDING CAN BE CONSIDERABLY ACHIEVED.

ANOTHER MAJOR CONSIDERATION IS THAT CAST EARTH CAN BE MADE FROM A WIDE VARIETY OF TYPES OF SOIL. UNLIKE ADOBE, RAMMED EARTH (WHICH MUST HAVE A CERTAIN RATIO OF CLAY TO LARGER AGGREGATE SOIL), CAST EARTH DOES NOT REQUIRE THE BINDING CAPACITY OF CLAY. IT CAN UTILIZE SOIL WITH SOME CLAY IN IT,

BUT THIS IS NOT NECESSARY. UNLIKE CEMENT, WHICH CANNOT TOLERATE MUCH FINE MATERIAL LIKE CLAY, CAST EARTH CAN EASILY INCORPORATE IT INTO THE MATRIX IT CREATES.

THE MOST SIGNIFICANT ASPECTS OF THIS MATERIAL IS AESTHETIC; THE COMPLETE NATURAL, VARIEGATED APPEARANCE OF THE FINISHED WALL THAT HAS NOT OTHERWISE BEEN COVERED IS STUNNING. IT RESEMBLES CUT SANDSTONE

CUT SANSTONE APPEARANCE

SLABS,WITH RANDOM PATTERNS THAT SWIRLS THROUGH THE SURFACE.

MANY TECHNIQUES ARE AVAILABLE FOR ENHANCING THE ALREADY PERFECT APPEARANCE OF EXPOSED CAST EARTH. IN THIS CASE, THE MIX WAS ONLY LIGHTLY PIGMENTED, AND WAS POURED AROUND SEVERAL ROCKS PLACED NEXT TO THE FORMS.

THREE FEET THK WALLS IN CAST EARTH CAN ALSO CONTAIN 2" OF STYROFOAM INSULATION,PLACED INTERNALLY ABOUT 6" FROM THE WALL'S EXTERIOR SURFACE

STYROFOAM IS PLACED INSIDE THE 3’ THICK WALLS TO PROVIDE INSULATION IN THE WALLS.

THE PICTURE SHOWS A 3’ THICK CAST EARTH WALL.SMALL STONES ARE BLENDED WITH CAST

EARTH MIX TO IMPART A PLEASING APPEARANCE

EARTHSHIP

THE EARTHSHIP IS A COMPLETELY INDEPENDENT GLOBALLY ORIENTED DWELLNG UNIT MADE FROM MATERIALS THAT ARE INDIGENOUS TO THE ENTIRE PLANET. THE MAJOR STRUCTURAL BUILDING COMPONENT OF THE EARTHSHIP IS RECYCLED AUTOMOBILE TIRES FILLED WITH COMPACTED EARTH TO FORM A RAMMED EARTH BRICK ENCASED IN STEEL BELTED RUBBER. THIS BRICK AND THE RESULTING BEARING WALLS IT FORMS IS VIRTUALLY INDESTRUCTIBLE.

MATERIALS:• USED TIRES• ALUMINIUM CANS • CEMENT• WOOD

SECTION SHOWING

USE OF TYRES IN EARTHSHIP CONTRUCTION

THE COST OF USING EARTHSHIP IS SIMILAR TO CONVENTIONAL CONSTRUCTION COST - BUT THE DIFFERENCE IS THESE HOMES HAVE LITTLE OR NO

MAINTAINACE COST SO THE OVERALL COST COMES DOWN.

PROVIDE COMFORT IN ANY CLIMATE. DO NOT USE ELECTRICITY TO MAINTAIN A STABLE,

COMFORTABLE TEMPERATURE. INTERACT WITH THE SUN FOR SOLAR

GAIN.INTERACT WITH THE EARTH FOR COOLNESS AND PROVIDE A STABLE TEMPERATURE.

ELECTRICITY:

EARTHSHIPS PRODUCE THEIR OWN ELECTRICITY WITH A PREPACKAGED PHOTOVOLTAIC / WIND POWER SYSTEM. THIS ENERGY IS STORED IN BATTERIES AND SUPPLIED TO ELECTRICAL OUTLETS.EARTHSHIPS CAN HAVE MULTIPLE SOURCES OF POWER,ALL AUTOMATED.

SEWAGE:EARTHSHIPS CONTAIN USED AND REUSED ALL HOUSEHOLD SEWAGE IN INDOOR AND OUTDOOR TREATMENT CELLS

COMFORT: EARTHSHIPS MAINTAIN COMFORTABLE TEMPERATURES IN ANY CLIMATE. THE PLANET EARTH IS A THERMALLY STABILIZING MASS THAT DELIVERS TEMPERATURE WITHOUT WIRE OR PIPES. THE SUN IS A NUCLEAR POWER PLANT THAT ALSO DELIVERS WITHOUT WIRES OR PIPES.

CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUESSTEPS:

• GET 500 TIRES OR SO; • DIG A FOUNDATION; • POUND DIRT INTO THE TIRES; • STACK THE TIRES INTO A HOUSELIKE SHAPE;

• PLASTER THE TIRE-WALLS WITH ADOBE, AND ADOBE WITH STUCCO ON THE EXTERIOR;

• PUT IN A PASSIVE SOLAR SYSTEM THAT FEEDS GOLF-CART BATTERIES;

• INSERT A 5-STAGE WATER TREATMENT SYSTEM;

EXAMPLES A 2 BEDROOM, 1 BATH, PACKAGED EARTHSHIP DESIGN

DEMONSTRATES PASSIVE SOLAR HEATING, SOLAR ENERGY COLLECTION THROUGH PHOTOVOLTAICS, WATER CATCHMENT, AND SEWAGE TREATMENT. THE WIDTH OF EACH ROOM IS FLEXIBLE, AS IS THE LENGTH OF THE ENTIRE SHELL.

EACH EARTHSHIP INCLUDES AN INTERIOR PLANTER WHICH ALLOWS THE RESIDENT TO USE FRESH WATER AT SINKS AND SHOWER, SEND IT THROUGH THE INTERIOR GREY WATER PLANTER TO FEED THE PLANTS WHICH IN TURN CLEAN THE GREY WATER AS WELL AS PRODUCE OXYGEN, FLOWERS AND SOMETIMES FOOD,THE REMAINING WATER CAN BE USED TO FLUSH THE TOILET.

STRAWBALE

STRAW-BALE CONSTRUCTION IS A BUILDING METHOD THAT USES STRAW BALES AS STRUCTURAL ELEMENTS, AS

THE STRAW-BALE HOUSE WAS FIRST BUILT SIMPLY AS A MAKE-SHIFT STRUCTURE, TO PROVIDE TEMPORARY LODGING, UNTIL ENOUGH FUNDS WERE AVAILABLE TO PAY FOR THE SHIPPING IN OF TIMBERS, TO BUILD A "REAL" HOUSE. HOWEVER, THESE HOMES QUICKLY PROVED TO BE COMFORTABLE, DURABLE, AND AFFORDABLE, AND SO BECAME REGARDED AS PERMANENT HOUSING.

THE PICTURE SHOWS A HOME IN WHICH THE LOAD BEARING

WALLS HAVE BEEN BUILT BY RAMMING EARTH INTO USED

AUTOMOBILE TIRES. INTERIOR WALLS ARE BUILT USING

RECYCLED CANS.

NOW,THEY ARE BEING BUILT THE WORLD AROUND, FROM NORTHERN CANADA, MONGOLIA AND POST-CHERNOBYL RUSSIA, TO MEXICO, AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND. BECAUSE IT IS BASED ON AN INEXPENSIVE AND RENEWABLE SO-CALLED "AGRICULTURAL WASTE PRODUCT," WITH A TECHNIQUE RELATIVELY SIMPLE FOR BEGINNERS, INVOLVING FEW SYNTHETIC CHEMICALS AND PROVIDING EFFECTIVE ENERGY-CONSERVING INSULATION, IT CONTINUES TO GROW IN POPULARITY.

MATERIALS STRAW-BALES CAN BE MADE FROM A RANGE OF PLANT

FIBERS GRASS-FAMILY SPECIES LIKE WHEAT, BARLEY, BLUE-GRASS AND RICE, FLAX, HEMP, ETC. (BALES OF RECYCLED MATERIALS LIKE PAPER, PASTEBOARD, WAXED CARDBOARD, CRUSHED PLASTICS, WHOLE TIRES AND USED CARPETING HAVE ALSO ALL BEEN USED OR ARE CURRENTLY BEING EXPLORED FOR BUILDING).

A NEWER TREND IS THE USE OF HIGH-DENSITY RECOMPRESSED BALES, SOMETIMES CALLED STRAWBLOCKS, OFFERING FAR HIGHER COMPRESSION STRENGTH. THESE BALES, "REMADE" FROM FIELD BALES, IN MASSIVE STATIONARY PRESSES PRODUCING UP TO 1 MILLION POUNDS OF FORCE

INNOVATORS SOON DISCOVERED THAT WHERE A WALL OF "CONVENTIONAL FIELD BALES" IS ABLE TO SUPPORT A ROOF LOAD OF 600 POUNDS PER FOOT ,THE HIGH-DENSITY BALES CAN SUPPORT UP TO 3,000 TO 4,500 POUNDS PER FOOT.

STRAWBALE CONSTRUCTION SYSTEM

THIS MAKES THEM PARTICULARLY SUITED TO LOAD-BEARING MULTI-STOREY DESIGNS, AND THEY MAY BE FACED WITH SIDING, GYP-BOARD OR PANELING

CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES STRAW-BALE BUILDING TECHNIQUE WAS ONE IN WHICH WALLS OF STRAW-BALES ACTUALLY PROVIDED THE SUPPORT FOR THE ROOF-STRUCTURE ABOVE, SO THESE ARE NOW REFERRED TO AS LOAD BEARING, AND STRAW-BALE HOMES OF THIS STYLE CONTINUE TO BE BUILT AND PERMITTED.

AN ALTERNATIVE METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION USES A POST AND BEAM FRAMING SYSTEM TO CARRY ROOF, WIND AND SEISMIC LOADS. ONCE THAT STRUCTURE IS IN PLACE, THE WALLS ARE THEN INFILLED WITH STRAW BALES FOR INSULATION. THIS TYPE OF STRUCTURE IS POPULAR

BECAUSE IT ALLOWS BALE PLACEMENT TO BE

ACCOMPLISHED WITH THE ROOF ALREADY IN PLACE. FIELD BALES ARE LAID IN RUNNING BOND LIKE BRICKS.

THEY ARE EASILY RETIED TO MAKE HALF OR CUSTOM SIZED BALES. THEY MAY ALSO BE EASILY "PINNED" INTERNALLY OR ON BOTH SURFACES (WITH BAMBOO, REED, REBAR OR WOOD), OR CAN BE "CAGED" ON BOTH FACES WITH PRE-WELDED OR WOVEN MESH, TO INCREASE PRE-STUCCOED WALL STABILITY.

PART OF THE STRUCTURE. MOST OFTEN A CONVENTIONAL ROOF STRUCTURE IS ATTACHED TO A LOAD-DISTRIBUTING PLATE OR BEAM AT THE TOP OF THE STRAW WALLS. THESE CONVENTIONAL ROOF STRUCTURES MAY BE INSULATED WITH STRAW BALES, TAKING ADVANTAGE OF THEIR HIGH INSULATION VALUES AND ACOUSTIC PROPERTIES.

ADVANTAGES INSULATION: STRAW-BALE BUILDINGS HAVE EXCELLENT

THERMAL PERFORMANCE BECAUSE OF THEIR COMBINATION OF HIGH INSULATIVE VALUE AND THE WELL-DISTRIBUTED THERMAL MASS PROVIDED BY THICK PLASTER COATING.

THERMAL MASS: THE TYPICAL INTERIOR FINISH OF A STRAW-BALE WALL IS EITHER CEMENT OR GYPSUM PLASTER, OR A COMBINATION. AN APPROPRIATE THICKNESS OF THIS WALL MATERIAL CAN PROVIDE EXCELLENT THERMAL MASS ON A DIURNAL CYCLE. THERMAL MASS REDUCES THE THERMAL SWINGS DUE TO DAYTIME WARMING AND NIGHT TIME COOLING, BY ABSORBING AND THEN GRADUALLY RELEASING HEAT.

SIMPLICITY: STRAW-BALE BUILDING UTILIZES LOCALLY AVAILABLE MATERIALS, AND BASIC CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES THAT REQUIRE LITTLE SPECIALISED OR PROPRIETARY MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT.

IT HAS OFTEN BEEN SUCCESSFULLY USED BY INEXPERIENCED BUILDERS WORKING ON THEIR OWN HOMES.

AVAILIBILITY AND COST: STRAW IS WIDELY AVAILABLE, AND IS GENERALLY AN ABUNDANT, RENEWABLE RESOURCE. RELATIVELY LITTLE ENERGY IS CONSUMED IN HARVESTING, BALING AND TRANSPORTING BALES TO A BUILDING SITE. IN BULK, STRAW BALES ARE GENERALLY SOLD FOR CLOSE TO THE COST OF BALING AND TRANSPORT. FARMERS WILL SOMETIMES SELL BALES FOR UNDER COST IN ORDER TO CLEAR STORAGE SHEDS PRIOR TO A HARVEST.

DISADVANTAGES

LIMITS TO STRUCTURAL STRENGTH: LOAD-BEARING STRAW-BALE WALLS ARE TYPICALLY USED ONLY IN SINGLE-STOREY OR OCCASIONALLY DOUBLE-STOREY STRUCTURES. A DUG FOUNDATION (BASEMENT) IS UNCOMMON. DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION CHALLENGES: STRAW-BALE BUILDINGS MUST BE CAREFULLY DESIGNED TO ELIMINATE THE POSSIBILITY OF MOISTURE ENTERING THE WALLS, ESPECIALLY FROM ABOVE. SUCCESSFUL DESIGNS OFTEN INCORPORATE ROOF OVERHANGS THAT ARE WIDER THAN NORMAL AND ROOF SHAPES

EARTH BAGS TECHNIQUE

THIS TECHNIQUE CONSIST OF FILLING OF BAGS WITH SOIL. BAGS ARE THEN PILED ONE OVER ANOTHER AND FINALLY IS PLASTERED.

CRUSHED VOLCANIC ROCK HAS BEEN USED IN PLACE OF SOIL. THIS CREATES A VERY WELL INSULATED WALL THAT WILL NEVER ROT OR BE DAMAGED BY MOISTURE. THE WALLS ARE THEN COVERED WITH PLASTER OR PAPERCRETE.

THE WALLS ARE MASSIVE AND SUBSTANTIAL, THEY RESIST ALL KINDS OF SEVERE WEATHER (OR EVEN BULLETS AND BOMBS), AND THEY CAN BE ERECTED SIMPLY AND QUICKLY WITH READILY AVAILABLE COMPONENTS.

POLYPROPYLENE BAGS ARE USED WHICH HAVE SUPERIOR STRENGTH AND DURABILITY, AS LONG AS THEY ARE KEPT AWAY FROM TOO MUCH SUNLIGHT

EARTHBAGS STRUCTURES CAN BE USED AS A EMERGENCY SHELTERS, CABINS, STUDIOS, GARDEN SHEDS, ETC.

IT WORKS WELL IN EARTHQUAKE-PRONE AREAS AND PLACES SUBJECT TO FLOODING, WINDS, AND HURRICANES. IT COULD BE USED AS QUICK HOUSING FOR PEOPLE MADE HOMELESS BY NATURAL DISASTERS

MATERIALS USED NATURAL MATERIALS

SAND, ADOBE, FLAGSTONE, ROCK, LIME, SCORIA, PARTS OF TREES.

RECYCLED MATERIALSGLASS, WAGON WHEELS, CULVERT COUPLERS, MISPRINTED RICE BAGS, MILLED LUMBER, PAPER, SINK.

NEW MATERIALSBARBED WIRE, PORTLAND CEMENT, SOME MILLED LUMBER, POLYETHYLENE SHEETING, PAINT, LINSEED OIL, TILES, CHICKEN WIRE.

CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUE

BELOW IS A STEP BY STEP CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUE TO CONSTRUCT A EARTHBAG DOME THE INTERIOR DIAMETER IS 14 FEET (4.3 METERS).

SELECTION AND LEVELLING OF SITE

BUILDING SITE FOR THE DOME SHOULD BE WELL-DRAINED.

THE CENTER OF DOME IS MARKED WITH A STAKE THAT WILL REMAIN THERE UNTIL THE DOME IS NEAR COMPLETION. USING A STRING ATTACHED TO THIS STAKE AS A RADIUS,THE PERIMETER IS MARKED.

USING A SHOVEL AND A LEVEL, THE AREA IS CLEARED AND LEVELLED.

DIGGING OF PERIMETER TRENCH

IN AREAS WHERE HEAVIER SOILS DO NOT DRAIN WELL, IT IS VITAL TO CREATE A RUBBLE TRENCH FOUNDATION FOR DOME.THIS HELPS KEEP MOISTURE FROM WICKING UP INTO THE WALL, AS WELL AS KEEP THE WALL FROM "HEAVING" IF THE GROUND FREEZES.

USING THE SAME CENTER STAKE, MARK THE INTERIOR CIRCLE OF THE WALL AND ALSO THE EXTERIOR CIRCLE (DEPENDING ON HOW WIDE BAGS ARE.)

MARK THE ENTRANCE, ALLOWING ENOUGH SPACE FOR A DOOR AND ITS FRAME.THE ENTRANCE FOOTING JOGS INWARD TO SUPPORT THE VERTICAL DOOR ONCE THE DOME SLOPES INWARD.

FILLING THE TRENCH

THE TRENCH IS FILLED WITH COBBLES OF VARIOUS SIZE,STONES, GRAVEL, OR "URBANITE" (BROKEN UP CONCRETE DEBRIS).TRENCH IS LINED WITH A WIRE MESH BECAUSE SOIL IS LOOSE SAND THAT WOULD EASILY CAVE IN AND FILL THE VOIDS OF THE RUBBLE.

FILLING THE BAGS

POLYPROPYLENE RICE BAGS ARE USED BECAUSE THEY ARE STRONGER AND WILL NOT DETERIORATE ONCE THEY ARE PLASTERED.

THE BAGS ARE FILLED WITH LOCALLY MINED, CRUSHED VOLCANIC ROCK (CALLED SCORIA) BECAUSE IT IS LIGHTWEIGHT AND HIGHLY INSULATING.

LOCAL SOIL AND OTHER POSSIBLE

INSULATING MATERIALS INCLUDE RICE HULLS. THE RICE BAG IS HELD OPEN WITH A LARGE STEEL FUNNEL.

LEAVE ABOUT 20-25 CM OF SPACE AT THE TOP OF THE BAG TO ALLOW THIS TO BE FOLDED OVER WHEN THE BAG IS PLACED ON THE WALL TO SEAL THE CONTENTS IN IT.

TWO BAGS (ONE PLACED INSIDE ANOTHER) ARE USED ON THE FIRST COURSE TO HELP PROTECT THE BAGS FROM RUPTURE ON ANY SHARP ROCKS.

LAYING THE BAGS USING THE TRENCH AS GUIDE, PLACE THE FIRST ROW OF

BAGS DOWN OVER THE RUBBLE IN A NEAT ROW.BEFORE EACH BAG IS PLACED,A PIECE OF POLYPROPYLENE TWINE

(ABOUT 1.5 METERS LONG) IS USED TO TIE TWO COURSES OF THE BAGS.

TAMPING THE BAGS

EACH COURSE OF THE BAG IS THOROUGHLY TAMPED TO COMPACT THE FILL INSIDE THE BAG

ADDING MORE COURSES

THE FIRST SEVERAL COURSES WILL BE PLACED VERTICALLY, ABOVE EACH OTHER. THE BAGS SHOULD OVERLAP IN A BRICK-LIKE PATTERN (RUNNING BOND). THIS MAKES FOR STRONGER BONDING OF THE WALL. THE POLY TIE TWINE FROM TWO COURSES BELOW THE TOP COURSE AT THE TOP TO CREATE A MORE INTEGRATED WALL

ENTRANCE COLUMNS

TO STABILIZE THE ENTRANCE, CREATE MASSIVE COLUMNS THAT WILL HELP HOLD THE SHAPE AND SUPPORT THE ARCH OVER THE DOORWAY.A DOUBLE-BAG ARRANGEMENT IS USEDIN THIS COMPLETELY FILL THE BAGS TO THE TOP AND THEN SEW A SECURE HEM SUCH THAT IT WOULD CONTAIN THE CONTENTS OF THE BAG, EVEN WHEN TAMPED. THE LENGTH OF THESE FULL BAGS SHOULD MATCH THE WIDTH OF TWO BAGS LAID SIDE-BY-SIDE.

DOOR FRAME ANCHOR

THIS IS DONE BY ANCHORING THE DOOR FRAME TO THE BAG COLUMN, BY PLACING A PIECE OF THREADED ROD BETWEEN THE BAGS, WITH CHUNK OF WOOD FASTENED WITH A WASHER AND NUT AT ONE END OF IT.THE DOOR FRAME IS ATTACHED TO THE OTHER END AND TIGHTENED AGAINST THE COLUMN.

ATTACHING THE DOOR FRAME

THE WOODEN DOOR FRAME IS BOLTED TO THE BAG COLUMN BY RECESSING THE NUTS SO THAT THEY DO NOT INTERFERE WITH INSTALLATION OF DOOR. ONCE THE FRAME IS CINCHED UP TIGHTLY, THE EXCESS THREADED ROD IS SAWED OFF.

WINDOW FRAMES

STANDARD CULVERT COUPLERS ARE USED AS WINDOW SUPPORTS. THESE ARE INEXPENSIVE AND IT IS EASY TO SET THE COUPLERS, STACKING THE BAGS AROUND THEM. IT IS

NECESSARY TO BRACE THEM INTO PLACE UNTIL THEY GET LOCKED IN WITH THE BAGS.

THEY SHOULD BE SLANTED TO MATCH THE CURVE OF THE WALL.

THE BLUE TARP AT THE BASE OF THE BAG WALL IS USED TO PROTECT THE BAGS FROM ULTRAVIOLET EXPOSURE OF THE SUN.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE BAGS COVERED BECAUSE THE SUN DOES DEGRADE THEM. SO IT IS NECESSARY TO PUT A FINISH STUCCO ON THE WALL.

FORMING THE ARCH

THE FORM FOR THE ARCH IS MADE WITH TWO PIECES OF PLYWOOD NAILED AT INTERVALS. THIS FORM IS THEN SET ON TOP OF THE DOOR FRAME.SOME SHIMS ARE FITTED BETWEEN THE FORM, THEN THESE ARE EASILY REMOVED WHEN THE TIME COMES TO RELEASE THE FORM.

PLACING THE BAGS OVER THE FORM

COMPLETELY FULL BAGS THAT ARE SECURELY HEMMED AT THE TOP ARE USED TO MAKE THE ARCH. THE BAGS ARE PLACED IN SUCH A WAY THAT THEY RADIATE OUTWARD, AND ARE TAMPED INTO PLACE.CONSTRUCTION IS PROCEEDED BY PLACING THE BAGS SYMMETRICALLY ON EITHER SIDE OF FORM.

THE LOFT JOISTS

ONCE THE LEVEL WHERE THE LOFT IS TO BE MADE IS ACHIEVED,THE JOISTS FOR THIS IS PLACED RIGHT ON THE BAG WALL.THESE ARE KEPT EVENLY SPACED AND VERTICAL WITH

BLOCKING NAILED BETWEEN THEM. LOGS CAN BE PRE-DRILLED AND PINNED TO THE BAG WALL

COMPLETING THE TOP OF THE DOME

TO CLOSE THE TOP OF THE DOME, IT IS NECESSARY TO ANGLE THE FOLDED END OF THE BAG TO ADAPT TO THE INCREASINGLY TIGHT ANGLE OF THE CIRCULAR COURSE. THIS IS DONE BY ARRANGING THE CONTENTS OF THE BAG TO MAKE THAT ANGLED SHAPE

THE FINAL BAGS

TO PLACE AN AIR VENT, LAST FEW BAGS ARE MOVED OVER A BIT TO MAKE ROOM FOR IT. USE 15 TO 20 CM PVC PIPE FOR THIS PURPOSE, AND THEN EVENTUALLY USE A TETHER BALL FOR A VENT CLOSURE.

RELEASING THE ARCH FORM

ONCE THE BAGS ARE STACKED OVER THE ARCH, THEN THE FORM CAN BE RELEASED

APPLYING PLASTER

PLASTERING CAN BE DONE WITH PAPERCRETE (RE-PULPED PAPER MIXED WITH PORTLAND CEMENT AND SAND).THE PAPERCRETE ADDS TO THE INSULATION VALUE OF THE WALL.

OTHER POSSIBLE PLASTER MATERIALS FOR THE DOME ARE COMMON CEMENT STUCCO AND STABILIZED EARTHEN PLASTERS.OTHER PLASTERS MAY REQUIRE A MOISTURE BARRIER SUCH AS POLYETHYLENE SHEETING DRAPED OVER THE DOME BEFORE APPLYING PLASTER.

THE ENDS OF THE JOISTS STICKING THROUGH THE BAG WALL, FLUSH WITH THE OUTSIDE, ARE PLASTERED OVER ALONG WITH ALL OF THE BAGS.

FITTING THE GLASS AROUND THE WINDOWS

WHILE THE PLASTER IS STILL WET, PLACE THE GLASS OVER THE OPENING AND SCORE AROUND THE PERIMETER OF IT WITH A TROWEL EDGE TO INDICATE WHERE THE GLASS WILL NEED TO FIT.

PREPARING THE PLASTER TO ACCEPT THE GLASS

REMOVE ENOUGH OF THE WET PLASTER TO BE ABLE TO RECESS THE GLASS INTO THIS CAVITY.ONCE, SATISFIED THAT THE GLASS WILL FIT,

LET THE PLASTER SET UP BEFORE INSTALLING THE GLASS; THIS WILL GIVE THE GLASS A FIRM BASE TO SIT ON.

TWO APPLICATIONS OF PLASTER IS DONE, SO THAT WHEN THE SECOND COAT IS DONE, OVERLAP THE GLASS WITH THE NEW PLASTER ON THE TOP AND ON THE TWO SIDES. THE BOTTOM IS LEFT FLUSH WITH THE ORIGINAL COAT SO THAT WATER WOULD RUN OFF

ADDING COLOUR

A FINAL COLOUR COAT CAN BE APPLIED, EITHER BY USING CONVENTIONAL CEMENT STUCCO METHODS, OR BY PAINTING THE PLASTER

WALL AFTER THE RICE BAGS ARE PLASTERED AND COLOURED

BIG HOUSES CAN ALSO BE CONSTRUCTED WITH THIS TECHNIQUES.

HOUSES BY COMBINING DOMES

INTERIORS OF A DOME HOUSE (ELEMENTS LIKE STAIRS ARE USED

AS STRUCTURAL MEMBERS)

PAPERCRETE

IT IS A RE-PULPED PAPER FIBER WITH PORTLAND CEMENT OR CLAY AND OTHER DIRT ADDED.

THE PAPER TO BE USED CAN COME FROM A VARIETY OF SOURCES AND IS USUALLY FREE. ONE CAN USE NEWSPAPER, JUNK MAIL, MAGAZINES, BOOKS, ETC, FROM LOCAL DUMP OR FROM THE WASTE BIN AT POST OFFICE.

DEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF MIXER THAT IS USED TO MAKE PULP, THE PAPER MIGHT BE SOAKED IN WATER BEFOREHAND OR NOT. MIXER USE A SMALL ELECTRIC MOTOR MOUNTED DIRECTLY TO A SHAFT WITH A COUPLE OF FOUR INCH SQUARE BLADES ON IT, THIS SHAFT IS SUSPENDED IN A PLASTIC DRUM WHERE THE MIXING TAKES PLACE.

PREPARING PAPERCRETE FILL THE TANK NEARLY FULL OF WATER, ADD ABOUT ONE

WHEEL BARROW FULL OF DRY PAPER, ONE SACK OF PORTLAND CEMENT, SOME SAND, DEPENDING ON HOW THE MIX IS USE. IN A DRAIN BOX WITH 1/8 INCH MESH ON THE BOTTOM, DUMP THE SLURRY IN VIA A DRAIN HOLE IN THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK. AFTER ABOUT A HALF HOUR OF DRAINING THE EXCESS WATER FROM THE SLURRY, THE PAPERCRETE IS LIKE SOFT, WORKABLE CLAY.

APPLICATIONS THE SLURRY CAN BE PUMPED OR DUMPED INTO FORMS

TO SET UP THAT WAY. BRICK SIZED BLOCKS OF PAPERCRETE CAN BE MADE TO

BUILD WITH, AND MORTARS THEM TOGETHER WITH A SLURRY OF THE SAME STUFF.

EITHER PUMP THE SLURRY INTO FORMS OR MAKE LARGER BLOCKS FOR BUILDING. THE ADDITION OF MINERAL MATERIAL (SAND, ADOBE, ETC.) MINIMIZES THE

SHRINKAGE MAKING THE FINAL PRODUCT MORE DURABLE AND FIRE PROOF.

CURED PAPERCRETE ACTS LIKE A SPONGE UNLESS IT IS COATED WITH SOMETHING TO STOP THE ENTRY OF WATER. IT IS A WHOLE NEW CONCEPT FOR A ROOF: A SPONGE THAT WELCOMES THE MOISTURE, AND THEN SIMPLY GIVE IT BACK TO THE ATMOSPHERE THROUGH EVAPORATION.

PROPERTIES OF PAPERCRETE

IT IS DIMENSIONALLY VERY STABLE BOTH THROUGH THE PROCESS OF TAKING IN MOISTURE AND DRYING OUT AND IN A WIDE RANGE OF TEMPERATURES.

IT WILL HOLD FASTENERS TO SOME EXTENT, ESPECIALLY SCREWS, WITHOUT CRACKING.

IT IS HIGHLY INSULATING IT DOES NOT SUPPORT FLAMES, BUT WILL SMOLDER FOR

DAYS IF IT DOES CATCH FIRE. THE MORE CEMENT AND MINERAL MATERIAL THAT IS ADDED TO THE MIX, THE MORE FIRE PROOF IT BECOMES.

IT WILL SUPPORT MOLDS IF IT REMAINS WARM AND MOIST FOR TOO LONG.

IT WILL WICK MOISTURE FROM THE GROUND INTO THE WALL IF IT BURIED IN DIRT.

IT BECOMES SOFT AND DETERIORATE IF KEPT DAMP FOR TOO LONG.

IT RESISTS RODENT AND INSECT INFESTATION.

CARRIAGE HOUSE

IT WAS DESIGNED TO CREATE GARAGE,SHOP SPACE,OFFICE AND STORAGE SPACE.

IT IS A HYBRID DESIGN, UTILIZING EARTHBAGS PLASTERED WITH PAPERCRETE, A STEEL PREFABRICATED VAULT, CONCRETE FLOOR, AND WOOD-FRAMED END WALLS.

THE VAULT IS COMPLETELY COVERED WITH INSULATING EARTHBAGS, HENCE THE BUILDING IS VERY WELL INSULATED, AND COMFORTABLE YEAR-ROUND.

THIS CONCEPT COULD BE CONVERTED TO RESIDENTIAL USE, WITH ADDITION OF KITCHEN AND BATHROOM AND THE STEEL INTERIOR FINISH.THIS IS RATHER INEXPENSIVE WAY TO CREATE SUBSTANTIAL SHELTER.

SECTION THROUGH CARRIAGE HOUSE

SUGGESTIONS WHILE USING PAPERCRETE

POLYTHENE CAN BE USED AS A MOISTURE BARRIOR BEFORE THE PLASTERING IS DONE AS IT EASILY ABSORBS MOISTURE.

EARTH BAGS CAN ALSO BE USED AS A MATERIAL FOR WALL CONSTRUSTION SO IF MOISTURE ENTERS IT DOES NOT HARM THE STRUCTURE.

BORAX CAN BE ADDED TO THE SLURRY TO MAKE IT MOLD RETARDENT AND FIREPROOF

PAPERCRETE MAY NOT BE A GOOD CHOICE IN WARM AND HUMID CLIMATES, BECAUSE MOLD COULD FORM ON IT. ALSO, THE PAPERCRETE FINISH IS FAIRLY MAINTENANCE FREE