Index

CONTENT PAGE NUMBER

INTRODUCTION/ INVESTIGATION 1 - 4

PRODUCTION METHODS 5 - 6

CUTTING LAYOUT 7

CAD DESIGN / FINAL DESIGN SKETCH 8

COSTING/EVALUATION 9-10

BIBLIOGRAPHY 10

ROUGH SKETCHES 11 -

/tt/file_convert/5c9aba8d09d3f265168c447a/document.doc 14/05/23

INTRODUCTION

Design BriefIn this assignment I am required to adequately research and identify a number of pieces of furniture from varied sources that are capable of being a form of furniture, i.e. not game or recreational items. I am to use what I have researched and incorporate any ideals that would be useful in manufacturing my piece of furniture. I am also required to produce a ‘design brief’ which must in all cases show evidence of the investigation of a broad and varied range of similar products, keeping in mind that it must be clear concise and to the point. I am also to critically analyse a large amount of materials and production methods, write an evaluation devising solutions to any problems and use a range of communication techniques. Included within this brief I am required to create a full CAD design of the project, which gives enough basic measurement information for anyone to be capable of working from. I must also include all rough sketches of the initial designing processes and a costing sheet.

Constraints

In this assignment I am required to create and construct a piece of suitable furniture that is of a year 12 standard being that it follows the product specifications such as skill, size, knowledge and time criteria. The Constraints or restrictions I would face include the following;

The construction of the piece must include the usage of one static machine in its construction; this can include but is not restricted to the use of; planer, joiner, hollow chisel mortiser, drill press, thicknesser and various sanding implements. It must include the use of at least 3 hand machine tools which may or may not include; chisels, planes, hammers, mallets, marking gaugers, orbital sander, electronic router and a jigsaw. In consideration of the piece it must be of a sufficient year 12 standard and be finished with either stain or varnish. The project must be attempted at home using all school facilities available. This project must have a costing sheet in which the materials will be costed to each individual and it must be completed before the deadline on October the 22nd 2010.

Other then this there are personal restraints which may or may not affect my construct such as sickness or family issues.

Taking the constraints into consideration I decided that I wanted to make a Hope chest styled like a pirates treasure chest.

Investigation

Along with the creating and issuing of the design brief I am also required to investigate examples of previous furniture of similar design to what I am to construct. I must review each piece and include any relevant comments or sketches towards each piece.

Most of the pictures that I found on the internet and in brochures were not exactly what I was intending on doing, but gave me enough of a general idea to see what I could do myself. Most were flat lidded and rectangular and made out of solid woods, which I knew, would be too far out of my price range in order to use for my task. The piece I am going to make isn’t as simple as most of the examples I found on the internet and includes a greater amount of processes in the construction. The reason I am aiming to create such a piece of furniture is that I have always wanted one, and it would be quite interesting to see how well it turns out.

/tt/file_convert/5c9aba8d09d3f265168c447a/document.doc 14/05/23

Japanese Hope Chest1 in Dark Walnut Finish with Brass Fish LockThis piece of furniture is quite sleek and elegant. Although it is not the design of chest I am looking for it does incorporate several ideas that I could use. As a suitable design I could make something like this, although I am not sure I would be able to accomplish the styled legs. I particularly like the stain used in this piece as it is a rich darker brown that I would be looking to stain my own chest.

Large Sailor's Chest in Brown2

This design is a simpler example of a chest. The dove tail joints add character along with the roped handles and the solid bottom. Technique wise this chest is quite a lot simpler then my own design, and the washed out brown looks slightly tacky and off-putting

.Cedar Outdoor Storage Bench w/ Liner3

Design wise this chest appeals to me, the use of the slatted middles in the external frame look quite nice against the outer frame of the bench. The colour however does not suit my taste, as I like darker more bold furniture.

Red Leather Faced Chest.

This chest is the closest frame wise to what I am after in my own design. Though I wouldn’t attempt to make this particular style of chest because it looks as though it would take too long and would be too costly to make. I would However incorporate the designs of this chest and the Cedar Outdoor storage bench to create my own chest.

Unfortunately I was unable to source any hope chests with a half hexagonal lid, such as my own design came to have.

Material Properties:As a free choice project, the choice of timbers and other materials is individually based. For my chest it would be an obvious choice not to use veneered particle board, as it would not suit the structure of the piece. As a cheap easily sourced product I chose to use Radiata Pine for the frame and matchboard for the inner slats. To join the timbers standard PVA high strength glue will be used.

The Pine I am using is 19mm x 70 mm, and comes with knots, which are a weak spot in the timber.

1 http://www.orientalfurniture.com/oriental-furniture/JPN-HP720.html - visited on Monday 10th October2 http://www.cedarchests.com/storage-chests/coffee-table-chests/largesailorschestblue.cfm - visited on Monday 10th October3 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UPV70K?tag=cocc6-20 – visited on Monday 10th October/tt/file_convert/5c9aba8d09d3f265168c447a/document.doc 14/05/23

Pinus Radiata4 as a species of workable timber is quite efficient as it machines well and takes well to gluing, nailing and staining. However careful consideration is needed in reference to knots which can tear the wood quite easily. It is a mostly durable wood that can be prone to boring insects and stain fungi if not treated adequately. The Sapwood is readily treated with both open tank and pressure methods. The plantation grown stock is in most cases sapwood. Radiata has many uses such as veneer, plywood, pulp, paper, fibre and particle board and is used well in light construction and in context as boxes and crates.

Particleboard5 is ideal for applications such as wardrobes, wall units, TV cabinets, shelving, toys, cupboards and wall linings. Standard grade raw Particleboard is a high density, strongly bonded economical general purpose board made of larger wood core particles and finer particles on sanded surfaces. It is an ideal substrate for laminating and veneering. Other uses include making furniture and shelving.

As furniture and most woodworking are comprised of joinery, glues need to be administered in order to assure the strength and durability of the frame and other excess parts of furniture. For my Chest I will be using standard PVA glue in order to assure that the joints remain fastened and in structured place.

Polyvinyl Acetate6 also referred to as PVA or PVA c is a white glue used primarily for wood and carpentry. It can also be used for a variety of other methods such as general adhering, book binding and also handicrafts. Some benefits of this glue variety is that its open or ‘wetness’ is maintained at a higher length of time which makes it useful for complex assemblies like chairs and larger panels. However the glue retains a rather runny inconsistent fluidity and therefore is not very compatible with sanding as it softens when exposed to heat.

For the hinges I wished to use I was very certain that I wanted to use a variety that would hold a large amount of weight without buckling. After looking over several types of hinge I deliberated that I would need to have a piano hinge as it would distribute the weight of the chest more evenly and therefore not damage the joint on both the box and the lid. I would also be incorporating a stop system in the opening of the lid, so that it can only be lifted to a certain point before stopping, this will be achieved with two metal brackets sitting diagonally with fasteners on each side.

As my chest is large in size it is necessary to have some form of lifting ability. I will accomplish this by either drilling two small holes on each side of the panelling and filling through some thick rope or purchasing some steel or equivalent handles and position them on the top of the frame on each side. The handles I chose ended up being re-enforced steel handles 90mm long.

Due to my preferences I will stain the colour of my finished chest a deep brown, probably ranging in the colours and tones reflecting a deep mahogany or Walnut. I will also apply varnish to bring out the colour I wish to stain the chest in.

For the frame of my chest, I used a series of Stubbed Mortise and tenon joints7. The Mortise and tenon joint is one of the oldest most used joints in woodworking history. As a woodworking joint it is regarded as one of the most durable and long-lasting joints. Mortise and Tenon consists of cutting or chiselling a hole and a plug essentially to join the wood, frame etc together easily. Stub Mortises consist of four walls and the tenon depends on the thickness of the timber being used.

Production methods – Step by step manufacturing process

4 http://www.conifers.org/pi/pin/radiata.htm - visited on Monday 10th October5 http://www.gunnersens.com.au/products/timber-veneer-panels.html - visited on Tuesday 11th October 6 http://books.google.com/books?id=NC-AXM9U6qsC&pg=PA242 – visited on Tuesday 11th October7 http://www.mortiseandtenon.net/ - visited on Tuesday 11th October/tt/file_convert/5c9aba8d09d3f265168c447a/document.doc 14/05/23

Image 1. Example of a Stub Mortise, The highlighted section is what is chiselled out to fit the tenon.

Equipment

Steel rulerGlueNails

ScrewsHammer

BoltsWashers

SawSand paper

ChiselHammer

MalletPencil

Tape measureClamp

Wood puttyTrowel

PaintbrushDrill

Screwdrivers

To make this chest I needed the following;

Machinery Drop sawElectric RouterSaw TableRadial arm SawBandsawHollow chisel mortiserPortable drillPortable sanderBiscuit jointer

Materials

4 x 600mm Pinus Radiata4 x 700mm Pinus Radiata6 x 900mm Pinus Radiata24 x 600 mm match board7 x 700 mm match board10 x 190mm matchboard21 x 220 mm matchboard2 x 600 mm pinus radiata4 x 400 mm Pinus Radiata2 x 450 mm Pinus Radiata2 x 90mm reinforced steel handles1 x 90mm brass hasp and staple2 x 70mm lengths of rope1 x 870mm Piano hingeWood stainClear coat varnishBoltsWashers10mm biscuitsHandlesHasp and staple

Measure out 12 lengths of pinus radiata, 19 x 70 mm. Mark out four as 900mm, 700mm and 600mm respectively using a steel ruler, a set square and a pen or pencil. Cut using a radial arm or drop saw. Using an electric router or router table cut out grooves on the inside of each piece of radiata. Mark out mortise and tenon joints on each end and on the inner side of the 700mm and 600mm pieces. Cut out the mortise using either a small chisel and a mallet or hollow chisel mortiser. Check for the best fit in each piece, dry assemble the pieces so that you have two respective rectangular side frames which will look like this;

/tt/file_convert/5c9aba8d09d3f265168c447a/document.doc 14/05/23

700mm

600mm

Glue together using PVA and clamp using a bar clamps, keeping flat to ensure levelness. Once dry measure out tenons on the end of each 900mm pine and cut with the radial arm saw, making sure to adjust the level of the saw so that it just shaves off the right depth instead of cutting the wood completely. Test out the tenons in each mortise and mark out the best fit, dry assemble and glue again using the bar clamps to fit together. Measure out 24 pieces of 600 mm long match board and another 7 at 700mm long. The 600mm will fit onto the side parts of the frame, measure and cut each piece to fitting length and then slide into place securing with glue and wood nails. Do the same with the 700mm pieces except securing them to the bottom of the chest making sure the depth of the router groove allows for the matchboard to be flush with the outer frame. Punch the nails in with a nail punch and cover with wood putty. Measure out two thirds of the way up the chest bottom on each side and mark out in the middle. Place the reinforced steel handles onto the marking and draw out the drill holes. Drill the holes with a respective drill piece and an electric drill, and then fasten the handles on with bolts and washers, making sure to cut and bur the bolts to secure them in place. Next measure out more pine, 2 of 600mm, 2 of 400mm and another 2 of 450 mm. Router all pieces with an electric router or if you have one a router table. Cut each of the 400mm and 450mm pieces so that they correspond together to make a trapezium shape like so;

Mark out each part and cut with a biscuit cutter preferably set on 10 mm. Once cut place the biscuits into the grooves and dry assemble. Clamp together using a fastener strap or if you don’t have some available hammer nails into the crossed points in each joint making sure to miss the biscuits. Once dry, measure out 6 lengths of 910mm (this is to ensure for the extra length of the edging around the frame.) pinus radiata with a measuring tape, router them with either an electric router or a router table then measure each out for a mortise and tenon joint. Also using the tenons measure out the outer part of the trapeziums so that they correspond and make a trapezium shaped prism. Dry assemble for best fit then glue and clamp with large bar clamps. Cut out several lengths of 190mm matchboard. Then measure out each side of the trapezium, you should be able to fit approximately 5 pieces of matchboard into each side panel ( four modified to fit adequately) cut those with the radial arm saw or bandsaw so that they fit respectively into each groove.

After fitting the side panels cut about 21 pieces of matchboard 220mm long, measure out seven for the sides and the top and modify to fit. Dry assemble each row of matchboard, making sure to mark out the sequence in which they fit with a writing implement. Fasten each row with glue and then nail each side of the boards down with a hammer and wood nails. Cut out a piano hinge of approximately 880mm long, place it along the edges of both the lid and the box and mark out the screw holes. Using a small drill bit in an electric drill place pilot holes in each of the markings so that the screws will fit easier and not split the wood when driven into the frame. Replacing the hinge start from both edges and screw it on using a drill or screw driver and woodscrews. Once applied measure out two lengths of rope to a sufficient length (this is to create a stopper when the chest is opened so that there is no direct pressure placed upon the piano hinge when opened) . Secure the rope using rope hook to the inside of the chest on the side opposite of the piano hinge, do the same on the lid. To attach the rope hook drill a hole smaller then the hook with a drill bit then attach. Loop the rope through and tie off to prevent the rope from coming loose. Sand down the inside and outside of the chest till smooth, then apply a light stain.

/tt/file_convert/5c9aba8d09d3f265168c447a/document.doc 14/05/23

The triangular board on the side of the frame will be best cut after measuring an angle on the wood fast bandsaw.

Treasure Chest

/tt/file_convert/5c9aba8d09d3f265168c447a/document.doc 14/05/23

Section a

Section a

Routed groove

900

923

400

600

450

700

600

Matchboard

24 x 600 mm match board7 x 700 mm match board10 x 190mm matchboard21 x 220 mm matchboard

Note – All measurements are in mm

1. All timber (other than matchboard) is 70x19 Pinus Radiata2. Cut Pieces to length plus 10mm3. Mortise and Tenon following lengths of Radiata ; 900, 700, 6004. Biscuit joint following lengths of Radiata 400, 450. 600. 9235. See Production methods for assembly and processes.

Final Design

/tt/file_convert/5c9aba8d09d3f265168c447a/document.doc 14/05/23

580

720

1040880

700

700

190

70

70

600

Arielle Palmer MAJOR PROJECT COSTING SHEET

Item Number Material Thickness Width Length Area Cost/m Cost/m² Cost GST Total Cost

Frame small 4 Pine 19 0.07 0.6   $1.35 $1.35 $1.35 $0.14 $4.31

Frame Medium 4 Pine 19 0.07 0.7   $1.35 $1.35 $1.35 $0.14 $5.03

Frame Large 4 Pine 19 0.07 0.9   $1.35 $1.35 $1.35 $0.14 $6.46

Piano Hinge 1 Hinge         $1.05   $1.05 $0.11 $1.16

Matchboard 10 Pine 12 0.14 0.6   $1.60 $1.60 $1.65 $0.17 $1.82

Matchboard 14 Pine 12 0.14 0.6   $1.60 $1.60 $1.60 $0.16 $16.13Matchboard 7 Pine 12 0.14 0.7   $1.60 $1.60 $1.60 $0.16 $26.34

Top frame 2 Pine 19 0.07 0.6   $1.35 $6.72 $0.67 $5.64Top Frame Curved 2

Pine

19 0.14 0.9   $2.65

 

$4.77 $0.48 $5.25Top frame slats 10 Pine 19 0.07 0.9   $1.35   $12.15 $1.22 $13.37Handles 2 Rope     0.4   $2.35   $2.35 $0.24 $2.59Lock 1 Lock         $5.00   $5.00   $5.00Hasp and Staple 1            $2.50   $2.50 $0.25 $2.75                    $0.00 $95.83

                       

                  Pre-paid $13.25                         

                      $82.28

Evaluation

In regards to my chest I believe I followed the constraints to a high standard. Within the construction of my piece I used six static woodworking machines, 7 hand machine tools and several other amounts of equipment found within the woodworking area. Using effective communication I was able to overcome any problems I faced with the production of my chest with little issue or drama. I used a great deal of investigation throughout my piece too to overcome several problematic errors as many simple problems occurred related to the structure of my design, such as the nature of my lid. As a piece of storage furniture I believe I have succeeded in my aim as the finished product is large, sturdy, easy to carry and has the incredibly useful ability to be able to be locked via the use of the hasp and staple. Obviously there are several things I could have done to make the design more successful, such as staining and varnishing, putting a sliding tray into the middle to disperse the space inside the chest more evenly, or made it slightly smaller, but I feel given the result I have that I didn’t do all that badly.

I made a few changes to the outlay of my design, the most notable being the progression from a curved lid to a trapezium shaped one. I also used different handles from the design as the chest would be too big and have the potential to be too bulky for the ornate handles I chose initially. The integration of matchboard for the panelling inside the frame was another change, which in the end turned out for the better then just pine strips as it gave a more unique look to each part of the panelling.

While I am and will continue to be happy with the efforts I have made with my stage 2 woodwork assignment I feel humbled in the fact that I learnt a great deal from my teacher and from personal experiences. For example I learnt how to use a biscuit joiner, a portable electronic router and also how to most efficiently use a bandsaw to enable the straightest of lines possible.

If I had the chance to redo anything, I would fix all of the problems I faced during the process of this particular ‘model’. That being I would make sure to router everything that needed routing BEFORE I dry assembled and glued them together. I would also, granted I had the necessary funds for it, use a darker variety of wood such as mahogany or meranti, as they would only require a light varnish and not a full stain to obtain a darker colour variety.

All in all I believe that although I didn’t completely 100% comply with each and every constraint or learning outcome during the time I spent making my chest, I did use my best effort and after all that’s all you can do.

/tt/file_convert/5c9aba8d09d3f265168c447a/document.doc 14/05/23

Problems;

Throughout the production of my piece I encountered several problems. The first being that i forgot to router the frame for the chest before actually putting it together. A stupid mistake that ended up costing me more time in order to manually router out the inaccessible areas with a small chisel and a mallet in order to allow the matchboard to fit into the grooves.Further on, I made the same mistake for one side of the trapezium lid, fortunately my experiences previously made this an easy counter and I was able to eliminate this problem at a faster rate than I had previously with the main chest frame. Another problem I had was trying to join the trapeziums together, as the fastening belt in the workshop was broken I was unable to use that to successfully bond the frames together. Instead I had to glue then nail them so that they would bond together efficiently enough so that I could put the matchboard inside the grooves. My last problem was how to connect the matchboard onto the long sides and the top of the trapezium lid. Because of the nature of the lid it was necessary for me to have to get each section extremely accurate in order for the matchboard to look adequate. This was fixed by routing a groove diagonally into each side so that any incorrect lines would be hidden from obvious view.

BibliographyWord Count: 3600

Websites;

1. Amazon. (-, - -). Cedar Storage Bench with Cushion Top Color: Buckskin. Retrieved October Sunday 3rd , 2010, from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UPV70K?tag=cocc6-20

2. Earle, C. J. (2009, July 15th). Pinus Radiata. Retrieved Ocbtober Sunday 3rd, 2010, from Conifers: http://www.conifers.org/pi/pin/radiata.htm

3. Google. (-, - -). Handbook of materials. Retrieved October Sunday 3rd , 2010, from Google Books: http://books.google.com/books?id=NC-AXM9U6qsC&pg=PA242

4. Gunnersuns. (-, - -). Timber Veneer Panelling. Retrieved October Sunday 3rd, 2010, from Gunnersuns: http://www.gunnersens.com.au/products/timber-veneer-panels.html

5. Hayneedle.inc. (-, - -). Large Sailor's Chest - Blue. Retrieved October Sunday 3rd, 2010, from /www.cedarchests.com: http://www.cedarchests.com/storage-chests/coffee-table-chests/largesailorschestblue.cfm

6. Oriental Furniture. (2010, - -). Japanese Hope Chest. Retrieved October Sunday 3rd, 2010, from orientalfurniture: http://www.orientalfurniture.com/oriental-furniture/JPN-HP720.html

7. Unknown. (2007, - -). Mortise and Tenon. Retrieved October Sunday 3rd, 2010, from Mortise and Tenon: http://www.mortiseandtenon.net/

Locations;

Hub LibraryNoarlunga Library

Magazines/ NewspapersIkea 2010 CatalogueBunkersHarvey Norman

/tt/file_convert/5c9aba8d09d3f265168c447a/document.doc 14/05/23

/tt/file_convert/5c9aba8d09d3f265168c447a/document.doc 14/05/23