IDEX India Retail, July 2012

But aggressive promotion and marketing are key to survival and success

Indian Middleclass Turning To Diamonds

INDUSTRYNEWS GJEPC Knocks At Door To Rs.66,000Crore Pakistan Market

SPOTLIGHT

An Indian Splash InLas Vegas

MARKETREPORT

Mumbai Polished Prices UnderPressure

FACETS

MontepuezRubies And The TerribleMixture

July 12

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Danger Your Diamonds May Have Been

Made In A Lab

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kar052312j07 KARP print ad@Idex indian magazine.pdf 2012-5-23 18:24:16

4 IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20

magazineindia retail

05 FROM THE EDITOR’S DESKLose Trust And We Lose Everything

06 MUMBAI DIAMOND MARKET REPORTMumbai Polished Prices Under Pressure

08 COVER STORYIndian Middleclass Turning To Diamonds

19 RETAIL ET CETERAButterflies & Bows

27 DIAMOND RETAIL BENCHMARK

34 FACETSThe Montepuez Rubies & The Terrible Mixture

37 SPECIAL REPORTDanger! Your Diamonds May Have Been Made In A Lab!

44 SPOTLIGHTAn Indian Splash In Las Vegas

50 INDUSTRY NEWSGJEPC Knocks at Door to Rs.66,000 Crore Pakistan Market

w w w . i d e x o n l i n e . c o m

J U LY 2 0 1 2 VOL. 1 No. 20

Editorial Department EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Vinod Kuriyan

EDITORs Edahn Golan, Danielle MaxIDEX ONLINE REsEARCH Ken Gassman

INTERNATIONAL CORREsPONDENT Tamar Katzav

ADMINIsTRATION & MARKETING Managing Director Yaron BarzilayMarketing Manager Kuldip Bedi

sALEs MANAGERs Anish Kuriakose, Osnat Davidov, Avivit Morhaim, Yaron Barzilay

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION Helena DorshtACCOUNT MANAGER Rinat Oz

ART DEPARTMENTGRAPHIC DEsIGNERs

Boris Mandelis (RD Media group) Tera Kaur (RD Media group)

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the Copyright owner.

PUbLIsHED by yARON bARzILAy FOR IDEX ONLINE s.A

ISSN 0334-68382003 IDEX ONLINE S.A.

CONTENTS

JULY

Editor

5IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: EDITOR

he world economy is, according to some, more uncertain than it was during the 2008 global economic

crisis. This is reflected in sharply reduced consumer spending worldwide and extremely price-conscious choices even in the luxury segment.

So it’s worth cheering about the fact that even in these circumstances, the Indian consumer seems to have taken a shine to diamonds. But then, as our cover story reports, the Indian consumer hasn’t exactly been spending a lot of money on gems and jewellery over the first half of this year. Industry players have their fingers crossed when they say that they expect consumption to get going again after the middle of July and really take off with the onset of the festival season. There are just so many unpredictable elements between now and then.

Still, most industry watchers are cautiously optimistic in their outlook for the second half of this year. Having said that, however, one has to face up to the fact that the global diamond industry is faced with one of the greatest threats to its very existence and even the most cautious projections might well go out of the window.

We have to understand that as an industry, we don’t really have a product to sell. All we’re doing is selling an illusion. To sell that illusion, however, we require a reputation.

We require the consumer’s complete trust in us. Many of the Indian jewellery retail industry’s woes can be directly attributed to the fact that this trust has been repeatedly breached by members of the industry – gold that isn’t really of the purity that it is claimed to be, diamonds that aren’t of the stated colour and clarity and more.

Now we’re faced with synthetic diamonds that have been sold as naturally mined diamonds. This is a direct abuse of trust – not to mention fraud in terms of valuation. The synthetic stone, while definitely a diamond, is half the price of the naturally mined one. This is because the latter enjoys an attribute that the former does not – rarity.

So far, the issue has remained within the industry. But if this isn’t sorted out right now, it has the potential to blow up in the industry’s face. If the consumer decides that diamonds aren’t worth buing because of the high probability of being defrauded, it will be the end of everybody’s business.

We’re already in a situation where the Indian consumer has expressed a distrust in gold jewellery – last Diwali, sales of primary gold were strong while jewellery had a pretty miserable outing. If diamonds too cannot be trusted, we’re faced with pretty much an end to business as we know it. idEX

LosE trust And WE LosE EvErything

by VINoD KurIyAN

t

6 IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL | NO 20: MARKET REPORT

MUMBAIDIAMOND MARKET

REPORT

by VINAY PAREKH

MUMBAI POlIshED PRIcEs UNDER PREssURE

he Indian diamond manufacturing industry had closed down at the beginning of May for its

annual summer vacation and consequently, new polished production coming onto the market over the past five weeks has been drastically reduced. Dealers are all aware that this major shortage in production is one of the main factors sustaining current polished prices. The overall outlook is, therefore, extremely cautious.

Compounding this is the fact that domestic demand has been hit by the sliding rupee and demand from China and Europe too has significantly reduced over the same period. This has led to a depressed business sentiment and a further slowing down of movement.

The JCK trade show in Las Vegas was gauged to have poor Indian buying – a fallout of the import duty slapped on polished diamond imports. For much the same reason, not much was expected of the Hong Kong show either at the time of going to press. However, dealers were looking to the show to determine any possible lift in Chinese demand.

At the time of reporting, buyers were unwilling to any excess inventory at all and restricted purchases strictly to what was immediately needed. Dealers said that current prices were not sustainable in the long term and were alert for signs of a correction. IDEX

T

7IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL | NO 20: MARKET REPORT

-0.01 (-2 ) Fair demand for SI2-I1 goods. Overall demand & prices will remain soft.Demand will be very precise.

-0.02 (+2-6.5) Very good demand for white SI2-I1 goods.Good demand for VVS-SI/I-L col.

Steady demand & prices are expected. Shortages will be seen in SI category. Demand for VVS goods will be low.

0.03-0.07 (+6.5-11) Good demand for SI2-I1 whites.Fair demand for VS-SI/I-K col.

Overall demand & prices will remain soft. Demand will be mainly for +6.5-8 sieve.Demand for VVS goods will be low.

0.08-0.14 (+11-14) Good demand for SI & piqué goods.Fair demand for VVS-VS/J+ goods.

Demand & prices will remain stable. Shortages in piqué goods will be seen.

0.30 (1/3) Good demand for VS-SI goods.Fair demand for piqué goods.

Demand for SI goods will remain strong.Prices will remain firm.

0.50 (1/2) Good demand for VS-SI/K+ goods.Fair demand for I1-I2/I+ goods.

Overall demand & prices will remain stable.

0.75 (3/4) Good demand for +0.90 cts. VS-SI/F-J col.Fair demand for I1-I2/I+ goods.

Demand & prices for VS-SI /+0.90 cts. will remain strong.

1.00 (4/4) Very Good demand for SI goods.Good demand for I1-I2/I+ goods.Fair demand for VVS/VS/F-M col.

Overall demand will remain good. Prices will be under pressure mainly for VVS/VS goods.

0.15-0.17 (+14-15.5) Good demand for SI & piqué goods.Fair demand for VVS-VS/J+ goods.

Demand & prices will remain stable.Shortages in piqué goods will be seen.

0.18-0.22 (1/5) Fair demand for SI goods. Overall demand & prices will remain soft.

0.23-0.29 (1/4) Fair demand for SI & piqué goods. Overall demand & prices will remain soft.

0.40 (3/8) Good demand for VS-SI goods.Fair demand for piqué goods.

Demand for SI goods will remain strong. Prices will remain firm.

+3.00 Fair demand for VS-SI/G-K col. Overall demand & prices will remain soft.Prices will be under pressure mainly for VVS/VS goods.

MUMBAI DIAMOND TRADING IN JUNE

Size in Carat (Sieve)

Comments Forward Call

9

The move toward consuming more diamonds comes in the midst of the steady and somewhat frightening upward march of gold prices. “The price of gold has been oscillating, no doubt, but on the whole, it has simply kept going up,” Bamalwa observes, “and this is so only in India! Elsewhere in the world, the price of gold has corrected by up to 18 percent. In India, however, which is still the world’s largest gold consuming market in terms of numbers if not in value, the price of gold has remained obstinately high due to the dismal exchange rate of the rupee against the US dollar.”

But Bamalwa notes that while the high price of gold might have been a strong catalyst, diamonds are, on their own, increasingly being valued by consumers who would previously consider nothing but high-karat gold.

A

But aggressive promotion and marketing are key to survival and success

Indian Middleclass Turning To Diamonds by Vinod Kuriyan

look at what has been happening in the Indian jewellery consuming market over the first five months of the year has revealed some interesting facts. While there are some clearly emerging trends in customer preferences, it is also becoming

increasingly more evident that survival and success are dependent on how effectively the industry is able to catch the consumer’s attention.

“The Indian middleclass is turning to diamonds. There are, of course, some clear pockets where the product of choice is plain gold jewellery, but the aspiration to own diamonds is gradually spreading, there is no doubt about that,” observes Bachhraj Bamalwa, Chairman of the All India Gem & Jewellery Trade Federation.

IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20 COVER STORY

IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20 COVER STORY10

B

Bamalwa: Aspiration to own diamonds spreading

amalwa notes wryly that a slightly better exchange rate for the rupee would do wonders.

“If the rupee were to strengthen even slightly, there would be an immediate correction in the price of gold in India,” he says, adding, “this would immediately boost consumer sentiment.” Bamalwa goes on to make the point that in the end, the international currency exchange rate, something which no jeweller has any control over, is an important factor in determining whether or not jewellery sales will be good.

IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20 COVER STORY 11

According to Bamalwa, the weak rupee, the overall high price of gold and the uproar over the central government’s proposed imposition of excise duty on jewellery – which ultimately led to a protracted strike by jewellery retailers all over the country – have all combined to dampen overall market sentiment. “The ability of the coalition government to make clear policies too is in doubt and this has all had a very negative impact on consumer sentiment,” Bamalwa said.

So negative has consumer sentiment been that jewellery sales over the first five months of the year have definitely been affected. “May, June and the first half of July are traditionally slow months of the year in terms of sale. But this year, they have been slower than ever before,” Bamalwa notes. He goes on to add, “Whatever you plan or do, if the consumer isn’t in the mood to buy, you’re not going to get anywhere with trying to sell.”

He notes wryly that a slightly better exchange rate for the rupee would do wonders. “If the rupee were to strengthen even slightly, there would be an immediate correction in

the price of gold in India,” he says, adding, “this would immediately boost consumer sentiment.” Bamalwa goes on to make the point that in the end, the international currency exchange rate, something which no jeweller has any control over, is an important factor in determining whether or not jewellery sales will be good.

But the rupee-dollar exchange rate notwithstanding, Bamalwa is very hopeful of the coming wedding season, which will kick off in September and run through October. “While I think sales are going to be slow all through June and through the first half of July, I think we’ll see a turnaround. I’m very hopeful about the wedding season,” he notes.

As we have already reported in previous issues, diamond jewellery has been making steady inroads into the bridal segment in India. Quite contrary to other global markets, the Indian bridal market accounts for close to 80 percent in terms of value of all jewellery sales. A good bridal season is seen as good news for diamonds.

Nemichand Bamalwa & Sons

Haresh Soni of Premj i Val j i Jewel lers in Rajkot , emphatically endorses Bamalwa’s view of market sentiment. “Overall consumer sentiment is extremely weak. People are talking about how badly the financial markets are doing, about recessionary trends, banking issues and negative growth stories. Add to this the fact that the political situation in the country has left people believing that clear decisions can’t be taken and that the economic growth story is unstable.”

Soni goes on to note, “Due to our own governmental policies, gold prices have remained high in India while they have indeed corrected everywhere else. There are definitely consumer trends showing moves to mitigate

the high and fluctuating price of gold – perhaps more diamonds, or other metals.”

Like Bamalwa, Soni too believes that the market will get moving again later in the year. “There are no marriages in May and June and so there is no bridal demand. But from August and going through September. I believe the market will pick up. I think the season will be in full swing from Navaratri onwards.”

Anil Talwar of Talwarsons Jewellers in Chandigarh, however, says that the first three months of this year had been extremely good, with a slightly lower level of sales in April and May. Overall, he thinks this will be a pretty good year.

12 IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20 COVER STORY

S

Haresh Soni: Markets will move later in the year

oni goes on to note, “Due to our own governmental policies, gold prices have remained high in

India while they have indeed corrected everywhere else. There are definitely consumer trends showing moves to mitigate the high and fluctuating price of gold – perhaps more diamonds, or other metals.”

“There are no marriages in May and June and so there is no bridal demand. But from August and going through September. I believe the market will pick up. I think the season will be in full swing from Navaratri onwards.”

Aggressive campaigning mitigates weak market

N. Anantha Padmanabhan of NAC Jewellers Pvt. Ltd. in Chennai, thinks that apart from the economic reasons, there’s another reason for the depressed market sentiment. “The first five months of this year were not great. The only reason we did reasonably well was because we went out into the market with aggressive campaigns and got ourselves new customers. If we had sat back and depended on our existing customers, we would have been really down! To give you an idea of what a difference active marketing has made, I would estimate that our sales were down about 15 percent or so – as was the case with others who went actively after the consumer. Those that didn’t had figures that were between 40- and

50 percent down for the period year on year. What can you expect? It is a tough economic situation and the industry’s raw material imports are down by some 65 percent.”

Padmanabhan cautions that simply offering an alternative material to counter the high cost of gold isn’t enough. “The consumer would previously feel good about buying something in gold for an anniversary or some other personal occasion. Not anymore. There are a variety of other products like iPhones, iPads and other electronic goods that the consumer is excited about buying. You have to go out with an aggressive campaign and literally divert their attention away from those other products. Then they’ll come in and buy something from you.”


NAC Jewellers Pvt. Ltd. NAC Jewellers Pvt. Ltd.

NAC Jewellers Pvt. Ltd.


Padmanabhan notes that a case in point was Akshaya Tritiya. While he had realized that the festival could not be taken for granted as an impeller for gold sales and had developed a range of products in platinum, he attributes their relatively good performance to the fact that they were promoted heavily (see our article Akshaya Tritiya’s White Tint in our June issue). “Consumers came in because they were attracted by the campaign,” he says, “it isn’t as though they have switched to platinum and are continuing to buy. The moment our specific Akhsaya Tritiya campaign ended, sales of our platinum range also tapered off.”

Padmanabhan thinks that the rest of the year will be manageable only if retailers stay on the ball with strong marketing and consumer-attracting campaigns. “We can’t look forward to a lift in the market towards the end of the year as the markets in the rest of India do. Here in Chennai, we don’t get much of a lift from Diwali. We have to stay ahead of the game with our own efforts.”

Padmanabhan also thinks that apart from individual marketing and promotional efforts, there ought to be more collective industry initiatives. Hallmarking is one issue he thinks the industry should focus on and promote to the consumer. He also thinks the World Gold Council (WGC) ought to rethink its strategy for promoting gold in India. “The WGC has been going after exchange traded funds (ETFs) and other ‘paper’ gold. They don’t seem interested in physical gold anymore. I think this is a mistake. If they don’t keep campaigning with consumers, the demand for physical gold could disappear. This won’t be good news for the mines and their new production. The values of ETFs could go up because of market dynamics, but what will you do with new mine production if there is no physical demand? The policy they have adopted currently is the wrong one and they should take corrective measures.”

14 IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20 COVER STORY

Padmanabhan: Aggressive promotion key to survival


The consumer would previously feel good about buying something in gold for an anniversary or some other personal occasion. Not anymore. There are a variety of other products like iPhones, iPads and other electronic goods that the consumer is excited about buying. You have to go out with an aggressive campaign and literally divert their attention away from those other products. Then they’ll come in and buy something from you.”


SOCIAL EVOLUTION CHANGING BUYING PATTERNSEconomic forces and promotional issues apart, Talwar in Chandigarh observes that there are other forces at work in the market which have brought about some fundamental changes – and the market is still evolving – in the way Indians bought jewellery. “These changes are so big they are nothing short of a revolution,” he said.

According to Talwar, consumer choice has been playing an increasing role in the way jewellery is sold – and even in determining whether or not retailers are able to stay in business. “The small town of some 70,000 people that I come from, used to have six jewellery retailers. When I went back recently, there were only two left in the business – and they were heavily into the real estate business as well. When I asked them what had happened, they said that when people are willing to drive some 30- or 40 kilometres to a neighbouring town just so they can buy a “softy” ice cream of their choice, it went without saying that for jewellery they were not willing to settle for simply what the small-town retailer had on offer.”

Expanding on the theme of choice, Talwar notes that social changes that have replaced many traditional systems have played a major role in the way jewellery is bought today. “My family has been in the jewellery business some 200 years,” he observed, adding, “and I myself have


Talwarsons Jewellers


16

a manifestation of the changes that are taking place. “I think the Indian consumer is still spending as much as he or she did a while ago,” he says, “but if we jewellery retailers also go on pushing primary gold in the form of bars and biscuits, we’re setting up our own competition. When people say jewellery sales weren’t good at some time, you’ll find that the consumer has spent more or less the same – only this time, he or she bought more bars and biscuits and less of our product.”

Talwar goes on to say, “We have also added to our woes by not adhering to strict quality standards. We lose consumer confidence when the stated purity of gold in our products turns out to be an exaggeration.”Talwar thinks that much of what is perceived as the

W

been in the game some 30 years. When I started out in business, the Indian joint family was dominant and financial control was with the family elders. The most common walk-in customer those days would be grandparents who wanted to buy some jewellery for a granddaughter. The girl’s parents had no say in the matter. Some fifteen years ago, the grandparents got left behind in the ancestral home. The customer profile changed to parents who wanted to buy their daughter some jewellery. Today, the young woman will walk in and make a choice for herself – she isn’t inclined to let someone else do the choosing.”

Talwar also thinks that what many in the jewellery retail industry see as even a temporary slowdown, is actually

hen I started out in business, the Indian joint family was dominant and

financial control was with the family elders. The most common walk-in customer those days would be grandparents who wanted to buy some jewellery for a granddaughter. The girl’s parents had no say in the matter. Some fifteen years ago, the grandparents got left behind in the ancestral home. The customer profile changed to parents who wanted to buy their daughter some jewellery. Today, the young woman will walk in and make a choice for herself – she isn’t inclined to let someone else do the choosing.”


Talwar: Jewellery retail being consolidated

17

vagaries of the marketplace taking their toll on the industry is actually part of a steady change in the jewellery retail landscape in India. “Right now, some 5 percent of the jewellery retailers in the country control 50 percent of the market. In five or seven years, just 2 percent will control between 80- and 90 percent of the market.”Soni too thinks that buying impellers and overall buying patterns have changed today. “The purchase decisions are taken by the young generation today. And they have a rather casual attitude towards the selection and purchase process. The want the widest possible choice and they’ll spend very little time evaluating each. And they’ll like as not pick the very first item they like.”

Soni adds ruefully that there ought to be some way of educating young people in how to go about evaluating and buying jewellery. “It isn’t the same as buying some fashionable new clothes,” he says, adding ruefully, “but that’s how they evaluate jewellery. Try it on and buy it instantly if you like it! There’s no attention really paid to issues of quality and the materials used and whether or not the piece delivers value for your money.”

One industry analyst in Mumbai who preferred not to be identified, noted that one thing is fundamentally clear from the Indian jewellery consuming market’s dynamics over this year – the consumer cannot be taken for granted. “The Indian jewellery retail industry has for years taken the consumer and demand for granted. There is nothing sacrosanct about gold anymore. The economy is lackluster and dispirited for a number of other products too. But they aren’t simply sitting still. They are out in the market aggressively targeting the consumer. Indian jewellery retail has to do the same. Without this, sales levels and margins will not improve even if the economy goes up through the roof tomorrow.”



IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL | NO 20: RETAIL ET CETERA 19

retAiL et CeterA

ButterFLies AnD Bows“SUgaR anD SPicE anD aLL thingS nicE, that’S What LittLE giRLS aRE maDE oF,” oR So thE nURSERY RhYmE cLaimS. bUttERFLiES anD boWS cERtainLY FaLL into thE “aLL thingS nicE” catEgoRY. thiS month, iDEX magaZinE PRESEntS a RangE oF thE

LatESt PiEcES to FEatURE thESE EXtRa-FEmininE toUchES.

ChArMeD to Meet youJEWELLERY bY PiERRE LanniER

Pierre Lannier offers hundreds of different designs of silver and sterling silver and rhodium-plated charms. The adorable charms can be composed and recomposed time and again on bracelets and necklaces to create a perfect piece of jewelry to match each moment – and each outfit.

20 IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL | NO 20: RETAIL ET CETERA

Miiori Inc. recently introduced a new collection from its Esperanza line. The latest additions to the collection feature individually handcrafted 18 karat gold pendants, bangles and earrings, which incorporate Esperanza’s signature butterfly-themed designs. The new collection also boasts miniature and ergonomic designs for women who love to make a statement every day, not just on special occasions.

DeLiCAte Designs

JEWELLERY bY miioRi inc.

The Dance collection by Bagues perfectly captures the delicate soaring and fluttering motion of the butterfly. With diamonds or enamel set in gold, these creations are just as beautiful as those butterflies found in nature.

JEWELLERY bY bagUES

ButterFLy DAnCe

21IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL | NO 20: RETAIL ET CETERA

In Daniel Espinosa’s Monarca collection, the exotic beauty of the butterfly is rendered perfectly in elegant pieces combining pearls and gold. The Mexican designer certainly knows how to make every woman feel like a queen.

JEWELLERY bY DaniEL ESPinoSa

reigning MonArCh

Proving that the butterfly theme works just as well in timepieces as in jewelry, these ladies, watches from Zadig & Voltaire keep time with finesse. The butterflies put in an appearance not just on cases but also on the buckle. The watches are water-resistant to 100 meters.

WatchES bY ZaDig & VoLtaiRE

BeAting wings oF tiMes


This butterfly-shaped earring and pendant set from Schmittgall is composed of 18 karat yellow gold, cultured pearls and diamonds. The pieces are so light and delicate, they look as though they could just float away on the wind.

Light As A FeAther

JEWELLERY bY SchmittgaLL

Italian company Chimento manages to bring perfect Italian style to these black-and white-studded diamond bow pendants. The single-minded purpose of the company is, “to create emotions through beauty.” We say they have more than done this!

Bow Down to styLe

JEWELLERY bY chimEnto

The new jewelry collection from Ninna Ricci includes a subtle blend of romanticism and modernism. The gold- and silver-plated bows are set with stones, pearls and resin. Just like the Ricci woman, this jewelry collection is sensuous and feminine and very romantic and chic.

suBtLe BLenD

JEWELLERY bY ninna Ricci


JEWELLERY bY chaRming bY ti SEnto

troPiCAL wArning

The Tropics collection from Charming by Ti Sento draws inspiration from idyllic tropical scenes and exquisite pearl-white beaches. These silver treasures create the perfect ambiance for dreams, desires and inspiration to blossom, with the power to both evoke memories and inspire.

British jewelry designer Stephen Webster once again presents jewelry with an edge in his Forget Me Knot collection. Set in 18 karat white and yellow gold, dramatic earrings, bold cocktail rings, statement cuffs and necklaces feature white and black diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, garnets and colorful crystal haze stones. The line is also available in silver.

stePhen weBsterJEWELLERY bY StEPhEn WEbStER


Menz, a range of 18k gold jewellery studded with diamonds, is the perfect embellishment to complement the modern man’s style and personality and helps distinguish him greatly from the crowd. The splendid variety encompasses men’s rings, bracelets, kurta buttons and cufflinks, to suit every man’s style & personality. The collection is priced at Rs. 7,200 onwards

D’Damas has solitaire rings that spell sophistication and charm. Single solitaire diamonds embedded in twin coloured gold rings bands for the man who believes in understated style. The range starts from Rs. 35,000 onwards.

The Sangini men’s collection is diverse with a mix of diamond solitaire rings and multi-diamond rings, the collection has minimalist designs for men who like it simple yet trendy. Priced at Rs. 38,000 onwards, the collection is perfect for those who believe in keeping it balanced yet making a statement.

Gili men’s rings are diamond-studded with extravagant designs for the man who believes in flamboyance and style. The designs are contemporary, intricate and elaborate and make a strong impression. Prices start from Rs. 40,000

Father’s Day is considered to be the day of celebration of the one man in your life who is always there for you. Several brands from the Gitanjali Group that target the men’s segment, offered a range of product for the occasion. The men’s segment is one of the most vibrant in Indian jewellery today.

For the one MAn in your LiFe who’s ALwAys there

JEWELLERY bY gitanJaLi gRoUP


The radiant prong-set emerald and micro-set whites compliment each other in this unique cluster. The pendant is fabricated from 3.53 of gold with a 1.83 carat emerald and 46 diamonds weighing a total of 0.65 carats. The earrings together contain 5.14 grams of gold, have 72 diamonds weighing 0.78 carat and two emeralds totaling 0.69 carat.

The platinum bracelet with channel- and flush-set stones teases the fancy of every woman. It features 32.65 grams of platinum and 118 diamonds weighing a total of 2.48 carats.

sPLAshes oF CoLour

JEWELLERY bY Uni-DESign

Love the new Columbian emerald earrings by designer Imtiaz Motiwala. A beautiful vintage design yet modern and chic. The unparallel and classic combination of the green and champagne color makes the pair of earrings very imploring!

This quintessential pair is studded with Colombian emeralds weighing 12.37 carats and triangle rose-cut diamonds weighing 10.46 carats in an ‘ethnic’ setting.

Imtiaz Motiwala creations cater to affluent A-list celebrities, socialites, NRIs, businesswomen and jewellery aficionados. The Imtiaz Motiwala formula has worked in changing perceptions regarding the wearing of diamond-studded gold jewellery that was only limited to special occasions.

suMPtuous eArrings By iMtiAZ MotiwALAtJEWELLERY bY imtiaZ motiWaLa

It has now become a regular affair as women embrace the bespoke creations that are exclusively crafted by the designer for various occasions. The extended inventory encompasses necklaces, pendants, bracelets, earrings, and rings, wedding bands in polki, gemstones and diamonds.

Untitled-1 1 12-05-23 12:56 AM

For the first time ever, Indian diamond jewellery retailers have a retail benchmark for diamond prices, enabling them to assure their consumers about the retail prices being charged for diamonds. The endorsement of the All India Gems & Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF) makes the benchmark prices accepted countrywide, giving the consumer further confidence to buy diamonds.

The Diamond Retail Benchmark (DRB) is derived from up-to-date market data using an objective and fully transparent system. Standard retail mark-ups across the country have been factored in to ensure that the norms of every geographic market in the country are accounted for.

The diamond category is one of the few retail sectors that up to now has not had a credible retail price benchmark for consumers. For consumers, many of them first-time diamond buyers, the purchase of a diamond may sometimes prove to be a confusing experience. As a

luxury product that is bought to celebrate major life events and which will accompany them everywhere, confidence is essential. Consumers should be able to buy a diamond with the confidence of knowing they paid a fair price.

The DRB presents a retail price benchmark for a diamond based on each of the 4Cs – Cut, Carat, Colour and Clarity. The DRB should be used as background information only. Actual prices are determined by the sellers.

Your input will only make the system better. We urge you to contact us at anytime with your comments, suggestions and questions.

IDEX OnlineCall us at (022) 6633 2187 Fax us at (022) 6633 2186 Email us at [email protected]

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ABOUT THE IDEX ONLINE DIAMOND RETAIL BENCHMARK

(022) 6633 2187

(022) 6633 2186

27IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: DRB

Full Page template.indd 102 09-Feb-12 2:26:45 PM

Disclaimer: This Diamond Retail Benchmark India (DRB™) is an informational and educational tool for diamond consumers. Organized around the “the 4C’s” - Carat, Cut, Color & Clarity - the DRB India is based on market data from the diamond trading centers Worldwide and market research assessment of customary retail mark-ups. Endorsed by the All India Gem & Jewelry Trade Federation (GJF), as well as the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) The DRB™ should be used as background information only. Actual diamond sale prices may be di�er compared to this benchmark, depending on demand and supply at time of transaction; source of the diamond certi�cate; �uorescence; cut speci�cations; payment and other terms of business; foreign exchange rates; special stones and other business considerations. This is published jointly by The All

India Gems and Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF), a trade body headquartered in Mumbai, and IDEX, a diamond research house headquartered in Tel Aviv Israel, with a view of unbiased service to the consumer

29

IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3

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L 131254 122721 118400 114078 109757 101114 83827 75184 66541 53299 39947

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E 778880 653665 578093 545626 491329 414981 363400 314920 254474 190537 126600

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H 516649 505790 458696 414981 378248 337415 284891 265887 220012 167156 111197

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M 262064 220012 216189 185273 181395 173583 158014 154136 123386 90143 69644

N 231536 208488 200787 181395 177461 169705 150202 130534 110532 81888 69367

Prices are in Rupees Per Carat Powered by www.idexonline.com

JULY 1st 2012

THE DIAMOND RETAIL BENCHMARK - INDIADIAMOND RE TAIL BENCHMARK FOR POLISHED DIAMONDS

JULY 1st 2012

30


JULY 1st 2012


D 1336307 1073245 919220 756607 628234 563688 469888 419192 331431 226273 141393

E 1017452 961383 834561 663970 585185 534822 455371 390105 323951 218682 133581

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G 841653 728184 621087 542080 513214 462630 397363 346169 294255 195634 125713

H 628234 606737 570835 520417 484348 419192 382791 338800 271705 187933 117846

I 592387 520417 477146 455371 419192 368220 338800 294255 233863 133581 101834

J 513214 448169 433653 390105 353482 323951 301679 279184 187933 125713 93800

K 316527 309103 301679 294255 286719 271705 241454 233863 164718 117846 85656

L 279184 271705 264170 256635 249044 226273 211037 203335 133581 101834 85656

M 264170 256635 249044 241454 226273 211037 172530 156962 133581 101834 85656

N 256635 211037 203335 195634 187933 172530 164718 149150 117846 93800 77400

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00-1

.24

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d 2.

00-2

.99

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d 3.

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K 1119619 1086210 1079506 959111 831680 710510 609009 493324 369937 181007 137958

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D 2191590 1598427 1374259 1121613 949914 693501 588010 545570 438695 287329 163112

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Roun

d 1.

25-1

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d 4.

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H 3847305 2465843 2360408 2156075 1825918 1362569 984154 683528 521857 303784 157405

I 2933459 1766414 1726688 1627459 1422184 1110422 897501 629675 474431 290044 152363

J 2241786 1528173 1349271 1256469 1163555 917502 797274 555599 447282 269322 152363

K 1408942 1289601 1176796 1063992 950856 783922 676658 494764 385949 199789 150313

L 1170203 1057344 904150 830683 763810 622971 515098 426838 351820 199789 143166

M 937503 803978 690121 643083 602803 542135 447282 385949 317525 199789 143166

N 703529 636379 569117 488005 406449 385949 358635 338080 276248 192753 136019

Roun

d 5.

00-5

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JULY 1st 2012




D 11389717 8421575 6231426 4609175 3403236 2233088 1587013 871738 705191 402959 211591

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F 6612333 5244113 5217907 4170370 3212865 2219957 1448224 765250 618261 328550 166713

G 5041000 3357305 3350712 3311319 2950136 2035514 1434983 758546 611557 310654 159510

H 3847305 2917281 2766081 2667461 2312095 1560585 1236467 691839 551222 303784 157405

I 2933459 2476702 2377971 2154081 1976176 1401961 1130478 638318 510942 290044 152363

J 2241786 1982769 1943210 1573827 1527564 1176852 971300 564630 463793 273533 152363

K 1712449 1494487 1474708 1256358 1130478 865089 778547 504183 423292 218461 150313

L 1309325 1123830 984597 958003 825198 778547 631614 450274 362236 211591 143166

M 997839 851792 771899 731897 685135 611557 497479 409718 328162 211591 143166

N 765250 725193 658374 557926 457034 423292 396199 355421 294033 204665 141670

31


D 175855 158568 141282 128317 115353 102166 79949 62164 53299 44435 35514

E 136960 128317 119674 102166 97679 71084 66596 53299 48867 39947 31082

F 128317 106599 102166 88814 84381 66596 62164 48867 48867 39947 31082

G 115353 102166 93246 79949 75517 62164 53299 44435 44435 35514 31082

H 106599 97679 88814 75517 66596 53299 48867 39947 39947 31082 26650

I 97679 88814 84381 71084 62164 48867 44435 35514 35514 31082 26650

J 93246 84381 66596 53299 48867 39947 35514 31082 31082 26650 22217

K 62164 53299 48867 44435 39947 35514 31082 26650 26650 26650 22217

L 48867 44435 39947 35514 31082 26650 22217 17785 17785 17785 17785

M 44435 39947 35514 31082 26650 22217 17785 13297 13297 13297 13297

N 39947 35514 31082 26650 22217 17785 13297 8865 8865 8865 8865

Fanc

y 0.

18-0

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D 187600 170757 166491 149205 136240 110311 101668 75517 71084 53299 44435

E 170757 166491 162170 140562 127597 105989 97346 66596 66596 48867 35514

F 153527 149205 144883 136240 123276 101668 93025 62164 62164 44435 35514

G 149205 136240 131919 123276 114632 93025 84381 57732 57732 44435 35514

H 136240 127597 123276 114632 105989 88703 75517 53299 53299 44435 31082

I 123276 118954 114632 101668 79949 75517 71084 48867 48867 39947 31082

J 114632 97346 88703 71084 66596 62164 57732 44435 44435 35514 31082

K 88703 79949 71084 66596 57732 53299 48867 39947 39947 35514 26650

L 71084 66596 62164 53299 48867 44435 39947 35514 35514 31082 22217

M 62164 57732 53299 48867 44435 39947 35514 31082 31082 22217 17785

N 57732 53299 48867 44435 39947 35514 31082 26650 26650 22217 13297

Fanc

y 0.

23-0

.29


D 337359 259405 227824 215801 195690 179511 154856 146601 125769 100449 70419

E 259405 227824 199734 191645 179511 167156 146601 134190 108870 83384 66098

F 235692 211812 187656 183611 175411 134190 129980 117347 104660 70586 57455

G 215801 187656 179511 171311 158956 125769 121558 96238 92027 61942 53133

H 195690 183611 154856 150701 138401 121558 104660 87706 83384 61776 48812

I 179511 167156 134190 129980 121558 113081 100449 83384 70586 57621 48812

J 142501 134190 113081 108870 104660 100449 92027 79063 66098 48867 39947

K 125769 113081 104660 100449 96238 92027 87706 70419 66098 44435 35514

L 108870 104660 96238 87706 79063 74741 70419 66098 48812 39947 31082

M 104660 96238 87706 79063 74741 70419 66098 57455 48812 39947 31082

N 96238 87706 79063 74741 70419 61776 57455 53133 44435 39947 31082

Fanc

y 0.

45-0

.49


D 439027 329049 279018 267383 247881 216743 177351 173361 153194 132861 82885

E 332872 279018 255693 224555 212865 189207 165272 153194 149205 95518 66098

F 294421 240124 220622 212865 208931 177351 161283 149205 136960 91307 57455

G 247881 232312 201064 197130 181340 169317 153194 145160 128761 91307 57178

H 232312 204998 193141 185273 177351 165272 136960 132861 124605 87096 57178

I 204998 193141 177351 173361 161283 145160 132861 120505 103939 74464 52856

J 169317 153194 149205 145160 141060 132861 120505 103939 95518 61499 48535

K 141060 132861 120505 116405 112305 103939 91307 87096 78675 52856 39891

L 124605 112305 103939 91307 87096 82885 74464 70142 52856 39947 35514

M 120505 108150 91307 87096 78675 74464 70142 65821 48812 39947 31082

N 108150 91307 87096 82885 74464 65821 61499 57178 44435 39947 31082

Fanc

y 0.

50-0

.69


D 243670 219015 202504 190204 156518 139675 127043 101114 88149 70863 48867

E 214860 198404 181783 169151 143886 127043 105435 92470 88149 62164 44435

F 185994 181783 169151 148097 139675 122721 101114 88149 79506 57732 39947

G 156518 152308 148097 139675 135465 118400 96792 83827 75184 48867 35514

H 148097 139675 135465 127043 122721 109757 92470 75184 66541 48867 35514

I 139675 122721 118400 114078 109757 105435 83827 66541 62164 44435 35514

J 118400 101114 92470 83827 79506 70863 66541 62164 53299 39947 31082

K 92470 83827 79506 75184 70863 57732 53299 48867 39947 35514 26650

L 75184 70863 66541 62164 57732 48867 44435 39947 39947 31082 26650

M 66541 62164 57732 53299 48867 44435 39947 35514 31082 26650 17785

N 62164 57732 53299 48867 44435 39947 35514 31082 31082 26650 13297

Fanc

y 0.

30-0

.39


D 292703 249266 217076 213031 192642 151421 134578 109314 105103 83550 61942

E 249266 221065 188542 180342 172087 143000 121946 105103 96515 70586 57621

F 233143 208987 176187 172087 163887 126157 117735 100837 92193 70586 53299

G 204998 180342 167987 155632 147210 121946 109314 92193 79229 61942 44435

H 180342 159732 151421 143000 130367 113524 100837 83550 74907 57621 44435

I 155632 151421 126157 121946 117735 109314 92193 74907 70586 57621 44435

J 130367 105103 100837 96515 92193 87872 83550 70586 61942 48867 35514

K 109314 100837 96515 92193 87872 83550 74907 61942 53299 39947 31082

L 100837 96515 92193 79229 74907 70586 66264 53299 44435 35514 26650

M 96515 87872 79229 74907 70586 66264 53299 39947 35514 26650 22217

N 83550 79229 74907 70586 66264 57621 48867 35514 35514 26650 22217

Fanc

y 0.

40-0

.44

Fanc

y 0.

70-0

.79


D 564353 484459 403457 396033 321070 267826 229376 225497 213862 151366 102997

E 414594 377417 369993 351155 317303 263948 209984 206106 194415 147432 94742

F 384897 366225 328605 317303 298299 248601 206106 194415 194415 139454 86487

G 351155 317303 302067 290653 271649 244723 190537 186603 174913 119342 82276

H 309712 275472 260125 256302 244723 221674 182725 174913 163167 107097 69644

I 275472 256302 225497 221674 217796 194415 163167 139454 131420 94742 61222

J 190537 178846 171034 167156 163167 159233 143443 107097 98842 65433 48535

K 163167 155299 147432 143443 135465 127375 119342 102997 78675 56956 39891

L 143443 127375 115297 111197 102997 98842 94742 90642 69644 52634 39670

M 139454 123386 107097 98842 90642 82276 78065 69644 65433 48313 35348

N 123386 111197 102997 94742 86487 73855 69644 61222 48313 39947 31082


D 628511 494930 473212 444124 352263 281068 246828 239238 235415 165826 106488

E 523907 451438 407668 381905 326223 277245 223835 220012 208488 158014 98343

F 469555 411325 381905 363400 311153 273478 220012 204610 204610 142335 90143

G 367112 344839 337415 303673 284891 246828 200787 189152 189152 126600 82276

H 311153 307441 288603 269655 262064 243061 193085 181395 177461 122611 77788

I 277245 265887 243061 231536 227713 212311 173583 158014 150202 102443 69367

J 223835 216189 204610 185273 181395 165826 146324 114522 102443 69367 52524

K 169705 165826 158014 154136 150202 138401 126600 106488 81888 60945 43936

L 150202 130534 122611 118566 110532 102443 98343 94243 73633 56734 39670

M 142335 126600 118566 110532 94243 86044 81888 73633 69367 48313 39614

N 126600 118566 110532 98343 90143 77788 73633 65156 56734 43936 35293

Fanc

y 0.

80-0

.89




JULY 1st 2012


JULY 1st 2012

32


JULY 1st 2012


D 792121 578038 520417 462630 419192 353482 286719 271705 256635 180232 109868

E 685412 477146 469888 440911 390105 346169 271705 256635 241454 172530 101834

F 642584 440911 382791 375533 368220 331431 264170 249044 233863 149150 93800

G 404676 390105 368220 360851 331431 323951 256635 241454 226273 149150 93800

H 346169 323951 316527 301679 286719 279184 249044 226273 211037 133581 85656

I 323951 309103 279184 271705 264170 256635 233863 195634 195634 125713 77400

J 233863 218682 211037 203335 195634 187933 172530 164718 156962 109868 69145

K 203335 195634 187933 180232 172530 164718 156962 149150 133581 85656 69145

L 180232 164718 156962 149150 141393 133581 125713 117846 109868 77400 52357

M 172530 156962 141393 133581 117846 109868 101834 93800 85656 69145 52357

N 164718 125713 117846 101834 93800 85656 77400 69145 69145 43936 35293

Fanc

y 0.

90-0

.99)


D 1270320 980775 834395 665245 544185 436423 349604 320516 261510 186160 124384

E 932129 813341 700648 587013 522688 414760 335032 291152 261510 172530 116627

F 799324 735996 594160 558480 501136 407557 327774 283783 239071 155466 100892

G 615547 594160 551332 508338 472436 385839 320516 276359 226273 155466 93800

H 551332 486841 450828 422018 400299 356862 298521 246606 224057 147764 85656

I 436423 385839 378581 371323 342346 305834 268935 239071 216577 132196 84935

J 356862 335032 327774 313203 291152 268935 231592 201341 178514 109868 84935

K 291152 283783 276359 261510 246606 224057 201341 186160 163112 108759 76846

L 231592 224057 216577 208987 201341 193750 170813 163112 132196 108759 76846

M 178514 170813 163112 155466 147764 139952 124384 116627 116627 92969 68646

N 170813 163112 155466 147764 139952 124384 116627 92969 84935 76846 68646

Fanc

y 1.

00-1

.24


D 2618317 1941770 1755554 1408388 1180453 883816 625076 446119 355421 221397 148208

E 2247050 1615547 1401684 1240900 1012300 843149 583910 439193 327276 199014 122999

F 1675550 1448501 1146878 1039282 985318 775168 577096 425287 306056 176464 100892

G 1234140 1193861 998781 917669 829575 700205 563300 418361 298964 162724 93800

H 998781 863483 781982 775168 713835 577096 528949 397418 298964 162724 90531

I 788797 747964 652391 563300 542689 522079 459970 362458 239736 162724 88703

J 590781 549560 515153 508283 473766 425287 397418 306056 213308 133581 84935

K 459970 453044 425287 404399 397418 383456 348385 277633 206106 126212 82719

L 383456 369439 341349 306056 291872 270541 263394 227658 169982 118788 82719

M 334312 320184 306056 277633 263394 198903 191645 184442 144052 111364 82719

N 291872 284780 270541 249155 206106 191645 169982 148208 133581 105989 74963

Fanc

y 2.

00-2

.99


D 4665023 2868192 2775832 2234251 1803923 1386005 871960 575046 472824 265887 148208

E 4000997 2518477 2313591 2048978 1724417 1226328 757715 527398 431769 244834 123497

F 2637265 2340074 1949693 1724417 1618261 1052801 717270 513768 369937 209485 101723

G 2234251 1870187 1777439 1425841 1332816 871960 710510 493324 356142 188154 101723

H 1671339 1638152 1432489 1232977 999280 730788 649676 424899 342346 173860 94354

I 925591 918887 912184 905480 878664 703751 561472 404344 286886 162724 94354

J 885368 676769 669954 663195 642917 541027 486509 376808 265887 152363 86985

K 595435 568286 541027 534212 513768 438639 376808 307773 223669 137958 82719

L 404344 397474 390548 383678 363012 328550 272924 244834 173860 123497 82719

M 356142 342346 335476 321624 307773 272924 230705 188154 159510 111364 82719

N 307773 293867 279905 258906 223669 209485 195302 181007 145160 105989 74963

Fanc

y 3.

00-3

.99


D 1353815 1073633 846418 756275 588010 474431 402848 359688 323564 221397 130700

E 1203668 942989 714444 651393 552662 467284 388498 352485 287329 199014 122999

F 874065 770181 595102 588010 531387 445897 381295 345227 280071 176464 100892

G 630284 623248 573882 552662 510056 424345 374093 338024 250873 155466 93800

H 559699 517148 452989 431547 417198 366890 338024 258241 236190 153693 85656

I 460136 417198 410050 402848 359688 330822 287329 250873 228822 132196 84935

J 388498 352485 338024 330822 316306 287329 280071 243559 206493 115242 84935

K 309048 287329 280071 265499 258241 228822 221397 206493 191534 115242 76846

L 265499 243559 228822 221397 213973 206493 183999 176464 161283 115242 76846

M 236190 221397 199014 191534 176464 161283 130700 122999 122999 99673 76071

N 213973 199014 191534 183999 146047 138346 122999 99673 84935 83994 68646

Fanc

y 1.

25-1

.49


D 1811070 1299463 1075350 904704 753671 615547 503795 419026 340573 221397 144052

E 1245221 1211314 1007147 884149 733005 608621 496703 397695 304726 199014 122999

F 1122999 1000332 897889 767466 643304 573771 482631 390603 290321 176464 100892

G 877279 856723 746800 684747 622472 538866 461466 383456 261455 155466 93800

H 739930 719209 608621 552828 531830 482631 411879 340573 254197 153693 90531

I 573771 566790 524849 489667 447338 419026 362015 304726 239736 151532 84935

J 404787 397695 390603 383456 362015 340573 297523 275916 206493 121281 84935

K 362015 326223 311873 304726 297523 290321 254197 217962 196077 115242 82719

L 311873 261455 232478 225220 217962 210704 203391 188709 161283 115242 82719

M 254197 246994 225220 203391 188709 181340 166491 159067 144052 105989 82719

N 225220 217962 210704 196077 159067 151532 144052 136517 121281 105989 74963

Fanc

y 1.

50-1

.99

Fanc

y 4.0

0-4.

99


D 4746080 3873566 3433376 3137404 2597651 1461965 997451 602803 474431 283118 157405

E 4398582 3111142 2940052 2426339 2235193 1322733 897501 535376 433653 248601 128871

F 2828135 2511995 2367001 2254973 2149427 1282952 743698 515098 385949 213807 107264

G 2254973 2142833 1812677 1806083 1706854 1216633 710510 494764 379135 192753 101723

H 1673777 1667184 1660591 1653942 1442074 1097180 703529 454042 372320 185717 100061

I 1097180 1090531 1083883 1077234 1050695 884149 669954 433653 324395 164497 94354

J 970802 937503 917502 870796 850740 736994 528617 392764 276248 152363 92803

K 616267 609507 602803 596044 589340 582581 460857 331265 223669 143166 85545

L 508283 488005 481190 474431 467616 420023 365450 248601 173860 123497 85545

M 413264 399579 392764 385949 372320 344950 290044 192753 171588 121669 85545

N 310654 296914 283118 269322 248601 234750 227769 185717 164497 121669 78287

Fanc

y 5.

00-5

.99


D 7257854 6035293 4812178 3901601 3475373 2219957 1653056 865089 705191 402959 211591

E 5969915 5073965 4117901 3403236 3206272 1976176 1137071 584742 477256 266663 162835

F 4687794 3849133 3665632 3166879 2792398 1686077 1070807 564630 463793 239182 120394

G 3600033 2772674 2733226 2410881 1956396 1487894 1017730 531054 436811 218461 113247

H 2634550 2377971 2180453 2134356 1877334 1329160 924816 470552 375810 204665 106100

I 1877334 1659649 1441631 1434983 1401961 1196742 831847 463793 341792 197739 106100

J 1487894 1362236 1110588 1103939 1077456 971300 738545 443570 287218 183833 98897

K 1110588 944761 851792 845144 785196 645022 531054 348607 225386 148762 98897

L 818550 678431 571334 557926 504183 477256 382625 259793 176852 148762 98897

M 611557 504183 450274 423292 382625 369051 294033 204665 176852 148762 91695

N 457034 423292 382625 328162 259793 246052 232257 197739 176852 141670 84492




JULY 1st 2012

haRd woRk pays off.m a n u fac t u r e r i m p o rt - e x p o rt p o l i s h e d d i a m o n d s i n a l l s i z e s a n d q u a l i t i e s

m a n u f a c t u r e r o f l a r g e s i z e s , r o u n d s a n d f a n c i e s , u p t o 25.00 c t s

schupstraat 1/7 2018 antwerpen belgium tel + 32 3 231 21 47 [email protected] www.pinchasi.com

ear Jeweler, While running through – with the usual haste – a

just as brief and hasty report on Mozambique rubies, my thoughts turned to you. To you and the face you will make after you have examined a ruby entrusted to your care by a customer to have a setting made or to adjust the bezel-setting or claws.

I can just hear your colorful exclamations, which certainly won’t be cries of joy once you examine it. You see, my friend, the ruby didn’t reach you until after others got their hands on it.

It began in 2009. At the time, the first stones crossing the

D Indian Ocean on their way eastwards were so uncommonly pure – that is to say without being profaned by any sort of treatment. It was like a dream.

However, just a few months later, these rubies were coming out transformed from the workshops in Bangkok and were vaguely reminiscent of the Mong Hsu (Myanmar) rubies.

The treatment for the Mong Hsu rubies has been used since the 1990s and consists of heat treatment at high temperatures combined with partial fracture (feathering) filling (with consequent healing) using flux. We’re not talking about a chocolate filling, but that terrible mixture of metallic oxides also used in the production processes

Facets


Jewellers beware! Rubies are arriving in your shops from the bush

of Montepuez in Mozambique via Bangkok.

Courtesy, L’Orafo Italiano

The MonTepuez Rubies anD The TeRRible MixTuRe

by LuIGI CostANtINI

haRd woRk pays off.m a n u fac t u r e r i m p o rt - e x p o rt p o l i s h e d d i a m o n d s i n a l l s i z e s a n d q u a l i t i e s

m a n u f a c t u r e r o f l a r g e s i z e s , r o u n d s a n d f a n c i e s , u p t o 25.00 c t s

schupstraat 1/7 2018 antwerpen belgium tel + 32 3 231 21 47 [email protected] www.pinchasi.com

for synthetic stones made from molten flux. Monstrous for you, my friend, when you see the molten flux seeping out of the cracks every time you whack a flame on them. This is the reason why my thoughts turn to you, jeweler.

So before jumping into the fray to “take up where others have left off,” cast an eye on the stone. Better if it’s magnified a little (40X, 50X).

If you’re faced with partly filled cracks breaking the surface in continuous lines (meaning that the crack hadn’t been healed in those positions), prick up your ears. The treatment doesn’t stop here. They’ve also injected glass infilling into some fractures, similar to the one used for treating rubies and diamonds with lead glass infilling.

It is true that the glass in our Mozambicans doesn’t have a lot of lead and bismuth, but it is still glass. This means

a lot of problems for you as glass melts and seeps out at the temperatures your blow-pipe is used to working at. It is also easy prey to attack from chemical reagents, including detergent solutions.

At this point, don’t let yourself be taken in just by what you see. If you look inside those partly filled cracks, you may even find linear or ball-like devitrification inclusions or, even worse, what looks like fingerprints. And a thought somehow flashes through my mind: but will this glass with little or no lead inside, still give me to those beautiful “flash effects,” such showy, striking and telltale signs of being treated?

What can we do? If I were you, not only would I start to equip myself a bit (any old microscope could be of help), I would also prepare a receipt book with a carbon copy disclaiming any responsibility if the stone turns out to be treated. IDEX


Luigi Costantini is head of Education in Italy at IGI - International Gemological Institute

by Vinod Kuriyan

MEMO

37idEX MaGaZinE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: SPECIAL REPORT

SPECIAL REPORT

couple of months ago, a diamond dealer in New York bought a parcel of 600 diamonds and sent all

the stones to the International Gemmological Institute (IGI) gem-testing laboratory in Antwerp for certification. The tests showed that all 600 of these diamonds were not naturally mined stones as the buyer had assumed, but were synthetics that had been grown in a laboratory. They were all true diamonds, but they hadn’t been created by nature. The seller had not disclosed this.

The incident, which involved Indians, was reported (see box) and immediately set off alarm bells in the diamond and jewellery industry worldwide.

It touched off particular worry in India. The 600 stones were a cut of a much bigger parcel, and nobody knows how many such stones have already been sold worldwide

A

DAngER! YOuR DIAMOnDS MAY HAvE

BEEn MADE In A LAB!AnD wILL THE COnSuMER CARE If YOu

PROTEST YOu DIDn’T knOw YOuRSELf?

or in India as naturally mined diamonds. Some years ago, at an industry seminar, much was said of diamonds that had been created using the High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT) technique in Russia and other countries of the erstwhile Soviet bloc. These goods were reportedly sold undisclosed in the Indian diamond processing market. Details were not forthcoming and after some initial alarm, it was business as usual.

The incident in New York involves lab-grown diamonds allegedly produced by Gemesis, the company with the world’s largest production capability of HPHT and CVD lab-made diamonds. It suddenly raised the spectre that a steady flow of undisclosed lab-grown diamonds could well be making its way into the Indian processing industry once again.

The Indian gem and jewellery industry scrambled to

38 idEX MaGaZinE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: SPECIAL REPORT

Many diamond industry professionals including laboratories have said that the Indian gem and jewellery industry’s business practices leave it wide open to fraud. Primary among these habits is the practice of having diamonds already set in jewellery “certified.” This involves getting the stones already set in a piece of jewellery checked for colour and clarity – which cannot be determined exactly but has to be given in a band.

respond. At press time, a pan-industry initiative involving the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB), the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and the All India Gem & Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF) was looking at ways of instituting some system to protect the industry from undisclosed synthetics. Primary among the ideas being discussed was the institution of “know your customer” (KYC) norms that are in place with the banking and cellular phone industries in India and with the jewellery retail industry in the United States.

Many diamond industry professionals including laboratories have said that the Indian gem and jewellery industry’s business practices leave it wide open to fraud. Primary among these habits is the practice of having diamonds already set in jewellery “certifi ed.” This involves getting the stones already set in a piece of jewellery checked for colour and clarity – which cannot be determined exactly but has to be given in a band.

The problem with the process is that unlike in the testing of loose stones by a reputed laboratory which involves a test to determine whether a stone is natural, synthetic or a stimulant, the testing of diamonds already set in jewellery usually is only for a colour and clarity grade and offers no other guarantees.

One industry professional who declined to be identifi ed, said, “In fact, there’s no way a lab can really distinguish between a diamond and glass that has been set in the jewellery. All you have to do is put a very thin wafer of diamond on top and even an electrical conductivity probe will be fooled. And yet, we have reputed labs regularly certifying jewellery and issuing certifi cates that attest to the colour of the stones!”

This individual went on to say, “What if one or more of these stones is in fact glass topped with diamond – never mind something as sophisticated as a lab-grown stone – which is actually a diamond. How confi dent do you think consumers are going to be about diamonds – and even buying jewellery in general as these stones have been set in product that is sold by reputed names in the market?”

Certifying jewellery is a lucrative business and many laboratories – including the International Gemmological Institute (IGI) that detected the 600 undisclosed stones at the heart of the current uproar, and the Gemmological Institute of India (GII), which is owned by Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) – offer this service commercially. However, say industry watchers, don’t blame any laboratories for this. “These labs are doing this because

39idEX MaGaZinE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: SPECIAL REPORT

Printer went on to say, “We at the IGI do have all the necessary equipment and knowledge and expertise to identify synthetic diamonds and also our experienced

gemologists can easily identify imitations. The Diamond Sure also allows you to test stones mounted in jewellery. In this current scenario, where undisclosed synthetics continue being the largest threat to unethical practices observed in the industry, certification is almost foreseen inevitable.”

K.T.Ramachandran, Executive Secretary & Chief Gemmologist of the Gemmological Institute of India (GII) the educational institution and gem-testing laboratory run by the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), explained that a Raman spectroscope could tell if a stone was indeed a diamond – but it couldn’t tell you if it was a Type IIa that then could lead to the possibility of it being synthetic. He said that the latest Fourier Transform Infra Red (FTIR) spectroscopes were now being offered with a probe that could tell if the stone was a Type IIa. He made it clear, however, that if the stone was in a closed setting with the girdle covered, it could easily be a piece of glass with a wafer of diamond on top and none of these instruments could tell you that. The readings would only be for the material on top.

A diamond could possibly be checked in a DiamondView or DiamondSure machine if set in a small-enough piece of jewellery, Ramachandran noted.

However, the retail industry has to want high-quality grading. Another retailer observed, “I know many of my peers knowingly send their diamonds to hole-in-the-wall ‘laboratories’ for certification. As long as they get a piece of paper that says ‘certificate’ on it, they’re happy to pass it on to their customers. They don’t care if the so-called

of pressure from the industry. Everyone from diamond dealers through jewellery manufacturers and distributors to retailers is generating pressure for finished jewellery to be certified. We as an industry have only ourselves to blame for this. We’re making it easy for someone to pass of synthetics as naturals.”

In response to emailed queries on the issue, Stephen Morisseau, the GIA’s Director for Public Relations, responded, “Accurate grading of diamonds according to the GIA-created 4Cs (including colour and clarity) requires that the stones be loose. For that reason GIA does not grade mounted stones.” He went on to add, “We do accept mounted stones for quality assurance services, including screening for synthetics and color treatments. However, mounted stones are more difficult to examine and it may be necessary for diamonds to be removed from the setting for accurate quality assurance testing.”

IGI, which detected the 600 synthetic stones in the incident mentioned above, however regularly grades stones that are already set in jewellery. Tehmasp Printer, Managing Director of IGI India, responding to the same questions asked of the GIA said, “Synthetic diamonds today are a big concern and the IGI is always at the forefront in their disclosure to the trade. When issuing a certificate for jewellery, we issue two types of reports -- graded prior to mounting and graded as mounting permits. For ‘graded prior to mounting’, we give exact grades as we see the stones before and after they are set in jewellery. For ‘graded as mounting permits’, with our expertise we are able to give accurate results but we have to give split grades for colour and clarity as there may be different quality diamonds in a single jewellery piece.”


laboratory even actually looked at the stone. They don’t get it that the issue of certification is about building consumer trust and not just about whether you can pass off an ‘H’ colour diamond as a ‘G’ with an increase in sale price. It could all blow up in our faces one day.”

Feedback also indicates that the industry seems to be relying too much on laboratories. “There’s only so much that the laboratories can do,” said one leading member of the GJEPC. “The only true protection against synthetics being surreptitiously passed off as naturals will come from the entire industry working within a system that provides a clear, auditable trail of transactions as a parcel moves through the pipeline. I think the pan-industry committee is on the right track in considering KYC norms. Even in the remotest village in India, the vendor of a cellular phone SIM-card is required to log details of the customer who bought the card. He is held accountable for the customer’s actions if he sold the SIM-card without due diligence. We’re selling diamonds and jewellery without that kind of accountability! The diamond and jewellery retail pipeline definitely needs to institute a similar system too. Not just ‘know your customer’ but ‘know your vendor’ (KYV) as well.

“A simple solution to the problem could then be instituted. With strict KYC and KYV norms in place, the industry would be in a position to ask every member who deals

in diamonds one way or another, to state clearly on the transaction invoice that the diamonds are natural to the best of his or her knowledge. Having to make that statement in writing on an invoice will ensure that people all along the pipeline will be vigilant and no one with dubious credentials would then be able to surreptitiously introduce a synthetic parcel into the pipeline.”

While this seems radical, many people agree that a start has to be made in this direction – getting everyone to make a written affirmation that the goods are natural diamonds to the best of their knowledge.

These KYC norms need to be applied to all the diamond-testing laboratories too notes one dealer who has been closely connected with the GII for many years. He observed, “Today, a laboratory is not mandated to establish the credentials of a client submitting a stone. Just about anyone can walk up to a laboratory and submit a stone

for testing. There is nothing binding in the relationship between the laboratory and the individual or company submitting a diamond for testing. If you were on a list of clients that had submitted information according to KYC norms, the laboratory too could immediately have an idea of where the stone came from. Knowing where the stone came from and where it is probably going to, is important. That is assurance. Also, having to submit to KYC norms if one sent in a diamond for testing would ensure that a great deal of vetting takes place before the gemmologists actually look at the stone.”

None of the laboratories today has strict KYC norms in place. Laboratories like the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) have a set of companies, including the Rapaport Group, who act as shipment aggregators for stones that are sent in for testing. Whether or not the aggregator companies institute KYC norms is unclear.

“At the end of the day,” said one jewellery retailer, “it is all about establishing how trustworthy we are as an industry put together. The consumer is not going to bother about

41idEX MaGaZinE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: SPECIAL REPORTidEX MaGaZinE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: SPECIAL REPORT

There are many issues that the Indian diamond industry needs to work out. For example, what if diamond dealer A, who cuts and polishes rough diamonds, sells his polished goods regularly to dealer B. Dealer B owes A Rs.1 crore for

Who Is Liable In The Pipeline?

diamonds he has bought on credit terms. Now he buys a parcel of diamonds worth Rs.10 lakh and has the diamonds tested. The laboratory certifi es them as being lab-grown synthetics.

Is Dealer B liable in any way? How can he prove that he did not know the diamonds were indeed lab-grown?

This holds good for Dealer A as well. How can he prove that he did not know the diamonds were lab-grown? In a fallout of this, could Dealer B tell Dealer A that because of this deal, the previous shipments of diamonds worth Rs.1 crore (which haven’t been tested and have either been sold onward or are held in inventory by Dealer B) are suspect; that no payment will be forthcoming and that he (Dealer A) should take back all the goods?

Supposing Dealer A could prove that he did buy the rough diamonds from an overseas supplier in good faith. Can he legally shift the blame?

Finally, if the diamonds are acquired by a consumer set in jewellery by yet another party, and if they are then pried out of their settings and tested as being lab-grown, where does the buck stop?

who actually committed the fraud in the pipeline. We as a collective group will be suspect. We’ve already seen the lack of trust in us impacting our business – last Diwali, when the social and religious buying imperatives were really strong, consumers went out and bought lots of primary gold in the form of biscuits and bars. They bought relatively little jewellery. Ask consumers and they’ll tell you that with the price of gold already so high and volatile, they don’t want to risk buying jewellery with the danger that the gold might not be of the stated purity! Quite a statement in trust! And if the consumer starts feeling the same way about diamonds, we won’t have any business left!”

The consensus was clear – the gem and jewellery industry as a whole has to institute business practices that ensure the integrity of its product all the way through the production pipeline. That is the only thing that will satisfy the consumer – who in the end is really the only person who matters.


A series of investigative reports by Chaim Evan-Zohar in the Diamond Intelligence Briefs (DIB) in May has suddenly opened the global gem and jewellery industry’s eyes to concerns that it may have sold or traded in millions of dollars worth of diamonds that are not naturally mined stones but man-made.

The daunting part is that these are all relatively small diamonds in the 0.30- to 0.70 carat range that are normally traded in lots or parcels and not as individual stones. Even more worrisome is the prospect that perhaps tens of millions of dollars (hundreds of crore rupees) if not more, could be in the Indian market.

These lab-grown diamonds are worth roughly just half the price of natural, mined stones.

According to Evan-Zohar’s report, a diamond dealer in New York bought a parcel of 600 stones ranging from 0.30 to 0.70 carat. His purchase was from an even larger selection of stones. He sent the parcel to the International Gemmological Institute (IGI) laboratory in Antwerp for testing. The results were shocking. All 600 of the stones were lab-grown synthetics.

Evan-Zohar reported, “But these diamonds were not just ‘ordinary’ synthetics. The clarity range was VVS-VS. Internal characteristics were feathers, pinpoints and small dark crystals. All these inclusions are strikingly similar to natural inclusions; hence, says the IGI lab, microscopic observation is insufficient to conclude whether they are natural or synthetic. The polish, symmetry and cut were either ‘Excellent’ or ‘Very Good’. They showed bruted or faceted girdles. The ‘problem’ is with the impurities, which were apparently intentionally introduced in the synthetic production process, not to make the stone more beautiful, but solely to make the stone look more natural. As one source that saw the stones observed: ‘They were created to defraud’.”

Evan-Zohar went on to report that within days of learning of the incident, the Diamond Trading Company (DTC), the rough diamond sales arm of mining major De Beers, issued an alert to all its clients, the Sightholders. The alert stated that the DTC Research Centre had been notified of three recent instances of synthetic detection by laboratories in Belgium, India and China. It said that the goods in all these instances had similar characteristics and that they had, therefore, come from a single source. The report also said that the characteristics were similar to those displayed by stones produced by Gemesis.

Gemesis is a company that was among the pioneers of commercial lab diamond production. It began in Florida

The 600 Diamonds That Were Bought In New York

43idEX MaGaZinE INDIA RETAIL| NO 1: SPECIAL REPORTidEX MaGaZinE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: SPECIAL REPORT

with high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) diamond synthesizing technology from Russia. After going through a financial crisis, the company was bailed out by Indian diamond dealer Jatin Mehta, who is now the majority shareholder. Mehta is chairman of Su-Raj diamonds, an Indian diamond manufacturing company based in Mumbai and listed on the Bombay Stock Exchange. Mehta set up two additional Gemesis production facilities. One, which uses the HPHT method, is in Malaysia. He also initiated a production facility in Singapore that uses the chemical vapour deposition (CVD) diamond synthesizing process.

Gemesis has previously only sold its rough product to other businesses in the diamond jewellery pipeline, using two routes to the marketplace. The first was to contracted manufacturers in a “captive” process where Gemesis bought back the polished, had it certified and laser inscribed before selling the polished goods to jewellery manufacturers. In its second route, it sold rough goods to a small list of clients like the Renaissance Diamond Corporation, which in turn clearly marked the polished goods before onward sale. Renaissance has since ceased operations. Recently, Gemesis added a third channel. It launched an online retail website www.gemesis.com, aimed directly at the consumer. The website states clearly that the products being marketed are lab-created diamonds.

The 600 diamonds that were involved in the incident

were all manufactured through the CVD process and then HPHT treated. What has caused concern is that none of them was certified as having been lab-created nor did any have laser inscriptions on the girdle, raising the concern that they were purposely passed into the industry to mislead.

The diamonds were bought on 60-day credit from Su-Raj Diamonds & Jewelry Inc. in New York. The polished inventory coming out of the Gemesis’ production was stored at Su-Raj New York’s premises. Evan-Zohar reported that Jatin Mehta stated emphatically that his parent company Su-Raj Diamonds India, had disinvested its holdings in Su-Raj Diamonds & Jewelry Inc., New York – as well as its holdings in Su-Raj Diamonds NV in Belgium and Su-Raj Diamonds (HK) Ltd. in Hong Kong – as of February 14 this year. Su-Raj Diamonds & Jewelry Inc. in New York, he said, was now being independently by his erstwhile partner Ashok Bhansali. No documentation was submitted to Evan-Zohar at that time to prove this point.

An Indian industry committee that included the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB) and the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) had asked for a clarification on the incident from Jatin Mehta. Sources told IDEX Magazine – India Retail that Mehta had reiterated in writing to the Indian committee, what he had stated to Evan-Zohar. Matters were ongoing at press time. IDEX

he annual JCK Las Vegas trade show is a key event for the global gem and jewellery industry. With

more than 3,100 exhibitors from all over the world and boasting some 21,000 visitors, the show is a barometer to gauge design trends and the depth of demand globally and particularly in the US market. Despite the recent global recession and an economy that is still struggling to recover from it, the US market still consumes about 38 percent of the world’s jewellery. It is key to the well-being of the Indian gem and jewellery export production industry. This year’s edition ran from June 1 to 4 at the Mandalay Bay Hotel & Convention Centre in Las Vegas.

The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) made a concerted effort at the JCK Las Vegas show this

T year with its initiative aimed at showcasing India as a global destination for all things related to gems and jewellery – especially making the point that India is not just an offshore production centre but a trend generator in its own right, with highly developed jewellery design and development skills.

The JCK show’s organizers acknowledged the importance of the Indian industry in the global gem and jewellery marketplace when it termed this year’s edition the “India Show”. Underscoring this was the fact that the show was officially inaugurated by Indian Ambassador to the US Nirupama Rao. She was accompanied by GJEPC chairman Rajiv Jain.

The Indian initiative at the show kicked off with an India

An IndIAn SplASh In lAS VegAS

Indian Ambassador to the US Nirupama Rao (centre) inaugurates the India Evening along with GJEPC brand ambassador Sonam Kapoor as GJEPC Chairman Rajiv Jain (right) looks on.

44 IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: SPOTLIGHT

SpoTlIghT

Evening on the first day. It featured a Kathak dance presentation by the Pandit Chitresh Das Company along with a cultural show by the ICCR and an Indian jewellery fashion show. The highlight of the fashion show was Bollywood actress Sonam Kapoor, who is the GJEPC’s international brand ambassador. The India Evening also featured the best of Indian cuisine, with chefs from the Taj Mahal Hotel in Mumbai being flown in for the occasion.

Over the entire duration of the JCK show, the GJEPC also organized a daily cultural show with performances by artistes from Gujarat.

Apart from this, the JCK show also featured a special India Gallery, located at the “Shark Reef ” at the Mandalay Bay centre, which showcased front-running work by Indian designers and brands that are one of a kind globally.Along with the India Gallery, the JCK show also featured as usual, the India Pavilion, which was located at Bayside Level of the Mandalay Bay centre. The pavilion featured a wide array of fine jewellery products ranging from platinum to gold, diamonds, watches, designer jewellery, antique and estate, bridal jewellery, coloured gemstones,

loose diamonds, jewellery services, very-high-end giftware, and pearls among others. It was visited by jewellery manufacturers, importers, traders and retailers. It featured a variety of regionally inspired and product-specific pavilions.

The India Pavilion, which is sponsored by the GJEPC, has been a participant at the JCK Las Vegas show since 2004. This year, the India Pavilion featured 65 leading Indian exporters.

GJEPC Chairman Rajiv Jain noted that the India Gallery along with the India Pavilion and the fact that this year’s JCK show was termed the India Show, served as a combined promotion for “Brand India”. The development of “Brand India” is considered essential to the efforts of the GJEPC, which wants India to be synonymous with cutting edge design and high quality fabrication.

Agreement With Fiera di VicenzaDuring the JCK Las Vegas show, the GJEPC also signed an agreement with the Fiera di Vicenza, organizers of the annual winter, spring and summer VicenzaOro trade fairs.

The agreement gives Fiera di Vicenza exclusivity in representing the gold and precious stone Italian districts and companies taking part in the annual India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) that is held in Mumbai. Also, Italian gold, jewellery and jewellery processing machinery companies will have special exhibition space at the VicenzaOro Italian Club and T-Gold at the Mumbai show.

With a market share of 28.9 percent, India is the world’s largest consumer market for gold jewelry and represents an enormous opportunity for Italian products. Fiera di Vicenza

Indian product on display

Sonam Kapoor walks the ramp to showcase Indian product

45IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: SPOTLIGHT

the luxury goods chain and Italian jewellery have enormous business potential.”

He added, “For some time now, Fiera di Vicenza has been working on intensifying relations with India. In order to function in a country that is as big as a continent, one must know the market and get oneself noticed. Signing this agreement with the GJEPC is an achievement for Fiera di Vicenza and a starting point towards new areas of growth.”Corrado Facco, General Manager of Fiera di Vicenza, said the partnership is a key element in their new strategy of making VicenzaOro a leading global brand. “The Indian market, which counts more than 150 million evolved consumers, just had to be part of our action,” Facco said.IdeX

said it has been encouraged by the Indian government’s recent willingness to lower customs duties, viewed as a catalyst to developing business relations with India.

The agreement also allows for an Indian pavilion at the VicenzaOro events to house leading high-end Indian jewelry companies sponsored and coordinated by the GJEPC. The VicenzaOro shows have featured an Indian pavilion for some time now.

According to Roberto Ditri, President of Fiera di Vicenza, “It is a big advantage for Fiera di Vicenza and its exhibitions, which are competing for first place in the gold and jewellery sector, and a further chance to promote Italian jewellery on the international scene. India is one of the markets where

All decked out with Indian jewellery and all smiles...


all it The Great Gatsby effect, call it a desire to return to a more glamorous era or call it a love for great,

classic design. No matter what you call it, the Art Deco influence was one of the prevalent trends seen at the JCK Las Vegas and Couture trade shows.

From Fred Leighton’s newly launched collection to Ivanka Trump’s signature Art Deco lines to the swinging tassel necklace and earrings – in every gemstone – found in many showcases, designers are clearly getting their inspiration from the glamour of the 1920s and 1930s.

Even the diamonds are getting in on the act, with an increasing number of more geometric and old-style cuts putting in an appearance. While the ever-popular round and princess cuts continue their popularity, the Art Deco trend must be welcome news to diamantaires who have had less popular cuts – such as baguettes and trapezoids – sitting in their inventory.

And, with the upcoming release of the The Great Gatsby in December – for which Tiffany & Co. designed the jewellery – the jazz age looks sets for a real and continued comeback.Moving away from the past, and proving that the tastemakers such as Pantone really do make a difference, tangerine and other orangey hues were to be found throughout the show floors of both JCK Las Vegas and Couture. (The colour forecasting company named tangerine its colour of the year.)

CBY DANIELLE MAX

ReTuRn To ART deCo In lAS VegAS…. ANd A RESURGENCE of fANCy CUt & ColoUR dIAmoNdS

Fine jeweller Le Vian, which is known for its on-trend collections, had lines featuring (trademarked) neon mandarin tangerine garnet and neon tangerine fire opal. At its well-attended trend fashion show, the company also presented sure-to-be-seen future fashions such as brown diamonds for bridal jewelry and a mix of blue and black stones.

Perhaps it’s still the consequence of the “Kate effect” and that British Royal engagement ring, or perhaps it’s just having its moment, but blue seemed to be putting in an appearance in many showcases – especially in the form of blue sapphire – though other blue stones are also popular.Another trend that seems to be having its moment was wrapped gemstone jewelry. From simple wire wrapping to more luxurious and sophisticated shapes embracing large stones, the encasing trend – as seen at designers such as Angelique de Paris – added another, sparkly, facet to simple gemstone shapes.

Finally, one trend we were disappointed not to see more of at Baselworld that seemed to be almost everywhere one turned in Las Vegas was gem slice jewelry – both faceted and un-faceted. The beautiful and colourful pieces offer a


great statement item for a less than statement price, making them a consumer must-have in a time when people are still less than enthusiastic about parting with their cash.

Diamond Fancy Cuts & Colours Sell WellWhile rounds and princess-cut diamonds remained the most popular diamond shapes, sales of fancy shapes were strong at JCK Las Vegas. Pears, radiants and ovals all did well, with cushions proving especially desirable.

The reason for the rise of the fancy cuts is clear: rounds are considered expensive and with their relatively lower prices, fancies offer buyers bigger pieces for less money. As one trader explained, “the market is full or rounds, which are moving slowly and expensively. Cushions are really in fashion more people want them and even though they are less common in the market, they are cheaper.”Enav Schwartz of A. Schwartz & Sons said the show had been fairly good, although he did come with relatively low expectations. “People came here in a bad mood,” he said. “I hope the show has changed that mood.”

Schwartz said he had sold a broad range of goods, especially “bread and butter” rounds in VS-SI clarities with GIA and EGL certificates.

Israel-based fancy colour specialist Leibish & Co. said the show had been better than expected. In terms of colour goods, 1-5 carat yellows were selling the most, followed

by pinks below 1 carat. Company CEO Yossi Polnauer said some of the increased demand for coloured stones is a result of people increasingly looking t o w a r d s c o l o u r e d d i a m o n d s a s a n investment vehicle. The coloured market, he said, is getting stronger and stronger.

Nilesh Shah of Nice Diamonds said that in terms of good sellers, he had sold a number of black and brown diamonds. People had been making enquires about pinks and blues,

he said, but when they found out the price of these natural coloured stones, they tended to end up buying treated stones.

The fancy colours were especially popular in fancy cuts, notably radiants and cushions in 0.5-1 carats. White goods, he said, moved in larger sizes, in GHI colors and SI2 clarity.IdeX


he one-of-a-kind cocktail ring “The Temptation of Eve” portraying the devilish serpent in the creation

story by Stephen Webster was unanimously voted as the winner of the Diamond Jewellery Over $20,000 category by a panel of top industry judges at the Couture Design Awards 2012 at the Wynn Hotel in Las Vegas.

The ring is set in 18-karat gold with 6 carats of white diamonds and a single 5-carat brilliant-cut Forevermark diamond clasped in the serpent’s coiled tail. Webster is the first British jewellery designer to create a collection with Forevermark diamonds.

The “Eclipse Bracelet” from the luxury Italian jewellery brand Stefan Hafner picked up the second place. The bracelet also placed second in the “People’s Choice” category. The latter award is based on votes given by US retailers.

The bracelet is a unique piece of jewellery with woven

look that conveys the softness of a cloud. It is studded with 47.48 carats of diamonds. This is the second year that the Stefan Hafner brand has won design honours at the Couture show in Las Vegas. The brand was acquired by the India’s Gitanjali Group in 2011 along with four other well known Italian jewellery brands. IdeX

T

hIgh end deSIgn AwARd wInneRS

Stefan Hafner’s ‘Eclipse’ bracelet.

Stephen Webster’s ‘temptation of Eve’ ring


IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: INDUSTRY NEWS50

Industry news

GJePC KnocKs at Door to rs.66,000 crore ($12 Billion) PaKistan MarKet

akistan has a domestic gem and jewellery consumption of Rs. 66,000 crore ($12 billion) annually. It also

currently exports some Rs.3,335 crore ($600) million in gems and jewellery, aiming to more than double this figure to the Rs.8,338 crore ($1.5 billion) mark by 2015. Domestic jewelry consumption is fuelled by a huge supply of locally mined coloured gemstones, diamonds that are mainly channeled into the country through Dubai, and an annual import of 170 tons of gold.

Those figures and the growth plan hold out enticing prospects for the Indian gem and jewellery industry. The Indians want access to Pakistan’s domestic market, which has design tastes similar to India’s; would offer Pakistan direct access to Indian diamonds while getting direct access to Pakistani coloured gemstones; and both countries could look at joint ventures in jewellery.

With these aims in mind, Sanjay Kothari, Vice Chairman of India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), led a 12-member Indian gem and jewellery delegation to Pakistan over the second week of June. Briefing the press in Mumbai on the trip, Kothari remarked that while the GJEPC had been trying to visit Pakistan for some time now, the up-and-down relationship between the two countries prevented it. However, when the Pakistani delegation to last year’s India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) was briefed in detail about the Indian gem and jewellery industry and its growth, it carried back the message to the its government that the Pakistani industry could benefit greatly from cooperation with the Indian industry, Kothari said.

Acting on this, the Pakistani government set up the Pakistan Gem & Jewellery Development Company, a partnership

P

The Indian delegation with Pakistan Prime Minister Gilani (centre)

between government and industry, much like the GJEPC itself. Among the new entity’s first actions was the setting up of a 70-booth gem and jewellery trade show and an invitation to the Indian industry to attend it.

Kothari stated that the Indian delegation was extended an extremely warm welcome, with the inauguration of the show by Prime Minister Syed Yousuf Raza Gilani set for 7 pm to accommodate the only arrival slot the Indians had.

Kothari said the delegation found a lot of Indian-made jewellery on display with Pakistani retailers. The product, along with Indian diamonds, had all come into Pakistan on a “magic carpet” from Dubai, Kothari noted. “There is no import duty on cut and polished diamonds and coloured gemstones into Pakistan,” he said, “but there is a 5 percent advance income tax which is refunded if the diamonds or colored gemstones are re-exported. Jewellery attracts a 5 percent duty and a 19 percent value added tax (VAT).”

Kothari went on to say, “We advised the Pakistani government officials that these tariff barriers would only drive the trade into the unofficial sector and we cited the Indian example and how it had helped the industry grow in this country.” He added that the Pakistani response was favourable and he looked forward to early changes in the tariff structures. “India is seek ‘most favoured nation’ status as a trading partner with Pakistan,” he said, “towards this, we also said that visas were a big issue – we want long-term multiple-entry visas issued on both sides to facilitate trade.”

The Indians have also sought direct auctions of Pakistani coloured gemstones – preferably in Jaipur. They have also mooted joint Indian-Pakistani participation in trade shows in centers such as Dubai and Singapore.

A 100-strong Pakistani delegation is expected to attend this year’s IIJS and the GJEPC was looking at setting up a Pakistan pavilion for the 2013 edition of the show. IdeX

IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: INDUSTRY NEWS

The only way to go for more exhibition space is up

51

he 29th edition of the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS), scheduled to run in Mumbai from August

23 to 27, will feature over 800 exhibitors in 1,900 booths, according to show-committee convener Haresh Zaveri.

Briefing the press in Mumbai, Zaveri said that the show, which is hard-pressed for space and has a wait-list of 479 firms wanting to take part, is trying a variety of options to address the problem. One solution being offered to prospective exhibitors is the multi-user mezzanine booth. Zaveri explained that this meant that booths could be erected with upper or mezzanine floors that would house companies other than those on the ground floor. Hitherto, mezzanine floors have been simply expansions of the ground-floor exhibitor’s exhibition area.

t

sPaCe-starved IIJs to try Multi-user Mezzanine Booths

“Our focus is on offering new exhibitors space at the show rather than granting existing exhibitors more space,” Zaveri said. “Any cancellations among participants would mean that the freed-up space would be offered to someone from the waitlist rather than being given as extra space to existing exhibitors.”

Zaveri said 1,800 overseas buyers were expected this year as compared to last year’s 1,300. He added that between 650 and 700 buyers had already registered for the show. IdeX

IIJS: India’s premier trade show with a chronic space shortage


shoPPInG For Gem & Jewellery talent in MuMBai

umbai is a significant gem and jewellery centre with tremendous employment potential. More than 600

attendees and 55 recruiters took advantage of that potential at the fourth edition of the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) Jewellery Career Fair held in Mumbai on May 10. The event was held in collaboration with the Gem & Jewellery Promotion Council (GJEPC) at the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB), Bandra Kurla Complex. The venue was provided courtesy of the Mumbai Diamond Merchants Association (MDMA). Attendees from diverse backgrounds including grading, merchandising, sales, marketing, finance and communications sought career advice and opportunities in the industry.

“The GIA is pleased to provide the Indian gem and jewellery industry with a platform that encourages new talent,” said Nirupa Bhatt, Managing Director of the GIA in India and the Middle East. “Building a qualified and effective workforce is the need of the hour and the Career Fair provides important recruiting opportunities.” Bhatt also expressed appreciation for the support of the trade bodies (the GJEPC, BDB and MDMA) that helped make the Career Fair a success. “We are pleased to associate with the GIA’s Career Fair

because it addresses the important industry’s need for a skilled workforce,” said Rajiv Jain, Chairman of GJEPC. “Job seekers were able to demonstrate their skill sets, while the recruiters introduced the value their businesses offer.”

Anoop Mehta, President of the BDB, noted, “This is a great opportunity to showcase the infrastructure and facilities available within the industry. The BDB is a living example of this and we are glad to be a part of the GIA’s endeavour. These efforts will go a long way in bringing fresh talent into the industry.”

The event featured a panel discussion on “Growth Opportunities in the Gems & Jewellery Industry,” and one-on-one mentoring and recruiting sessions.

Diamond Manufacturing companies like Rosy Blue, Dimexon, Bhavani Gems and Shairu Gems, along with jewellery manufacturing houses including Kama Schachter, Laxmi Dia Jewels and HK Designs, as well as retail houses including Harry Winston, Reliance Jewels, Anmol Jewellers and Popley Jewellers, participated in the Career Fair. IdeX

m

Prospective employers and job hopefuls interact

Career inspiration: GJEPC Chairman Rajiv Jain (extreme left) and Nirupa Bhatt (second from right) with featured speakers

Bhatt: Qualified & effective workforce is the need of the hour

IDEX MAGAZINE INDIA RETAIL| NO 20: INDUSTRY NEWS 53

atrina Kaif, brand ambassador of Nakshatra, the jewellery brand owned by the Gitanjali Group,

unveiled the brand’s new logo and its latest brand campaign – Glow Diving – at a function at Mumbai’s Grand Hyatt hotel. Present at the occasion were Gitanjali Group Chairman and Managing Director Mehul Choksi along with Shardah Uniyal, the group’s Vice President for Marketing and Sushil Sharma, Vice President, International Brands.

The unveiling featured a performance by singer Kavita Seth, followed by the unveiling of the latest Nakshatra jewellery collection by Kaif and Choksi.

“Divine force” is one of the key attributes of the new campaign – a fresh rendition of the “divine luck” philosophy associated with the brand whereby every piece of Nakshatra jewellery carries with it an attribute that is described as being “preciously divine”.

The new brand tagline is “Glow Divine” which the brand says is “in keeping with the inner radiance that a diamond emits whilst complimenting the inner beauty that every

k

katrIna kaIF unveils new naKshatra logo & caMPaign

woman radiates”. Keeping with the philosophy of “Glow Divine”, the new brand logo is inspired by the popular floral Indian motif and exhibits the “eternal beauty and brilliance of constellation in a graphically depicted diamond cluster”.

Choksi observed, “The new logo and identity are yet more remarkable milestones on Nakshatra’s journey in symbolizing jewellery that is beautiful, divine and ethereal, exuding the divine energy of perfect creations! It reflects all the values that have been at the core of our brand philosophy as well the vision and direction in which we aim to grow.”

Speaking on the occasion, Katrina Kaif said, “As the brand ambassador of Nakshatra, it gives me immense pleasure to be a part of this momentous occasion. The introduction of a new brand identity and logo simply enhances the divinity and immortality that Nakshatra represents; making each woman feel special and divine- almost like a Goddess! I look forward to a continued great association with Nakshatra and continue to wish the brand all the very best.” IdeX

Gitanjali VP for International Brands Sushil Sharma with Katrina Kaif


aipur-based jewellery design and retail house Amrapali has launched an emerald jewellery line inspired by the

jewellery the maharajahs once commissioned. The line features intricate cuffs, necklaces and chandelier earrings with an Indian aesthetic design element that is now being sought after by western jewellery retailers. It debuted on June 12 at Amrapali’s Beauchamp Place boutique and Harrod’s Fine Jewellery Room in London on June 12.

The emeralds in Amrapali’s jewellery line come from the world’s first formally structured mine operated by Gemfields in Zambia. Gemfields says the mine’s unique attribute is that all the emeralds have been ethically mined, with fair wages and good working conditions for workers and an initiative to address the environmental impact of the operation. Gemfields says the entire process pipeline from mine to market is also transparent.

Amrapali has been making jewellery for over three decades from their Jaipur studios and go to great lengths to sustain traditional Indian techniques that are revered around the world. The design and retail house has recently become the first Indian jeweller in Harrods Fine Jewellery Room, testament to its unique aesthetic. IdeX

he International Gemmological Institute (IGI), one of the world’s leading gem and jewellery testing

laboratories, announced the launch of a ‘Tatkal’ service exclusively for loose diamonds.

IGI said that the service was launched in response to the growing demand from the industry for urgent grading results. Clients now have the option of submitting stones in the morning and receiving full diamond reports the same evening. The client can also order laser inscriptions, rechecks, the IGI seal among the laboratories many other offerings under the ‘Tatkal’ service.

The new service is priced at 1.5 times the IGI’s standard

service fee. It will be available for a maximum of 50 stones per client per day. IGI says the new service will enable diamantaires to take commercial decisions faster and also enable jewellery retailers to quickly close deals with consumers.

IGI India Managing Director Tehmasp Printer observed, ‘During the past year, we were inundated with requests for urgent reports, so we commissioned in-depth research to deliver a workable and commercial solution for our clients. With the overwhelming response we have received so far, it appears that the ‘Tatkal’ service is what they have been looking forward to for a very long time.” IdeX

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amraPalI launches eMeralD Jewellery collection in lonDon

IGI announces ‘tatKal’ services in MuMBai

aksham, a corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiative from Gitanajli Gems Limited, won the

Award for Empowerment at the recently held Aaj Tak Care Awards. The award was given away by Indian Finance Minister Pranab Mukherjee at a function also attended by Bollywood actor Akshay Kumar. Mayuri Asar, Head - CSR division, Gitanjali Gems received the award on behalf of the company.

Under the Saksham initiative, Gitanjali has provided training and employment to over 2,000 underprivileged rural youth including nearly 500 people with disabilities (PWD). Gitanjali also employs over 250 PWDs at its factories in Hyderabad, Mumbai and Surat.

Congratulating the winners, Pranab Mukherjee said, “India needs its corporates to show, organise and help people who need to be brought into the developmental stream. Our task is vast and we need to work together if we want a better future.”

Mehul Choksi, Chairman and Managing Director of the Gitanjali Group said, “We are proud that our pioneering efforts in employing persons with disabilities, has been recognized. Since the gems & jewellery manufacturing process offers scope for employment of PWD’s, we have a responsibility to the society at large and proud to commit in helping the underprivileged and persons with disabilities.”

The Saksham initiative is aimed at empowering PWDs through training and employment. The PWDs are trained in the various processes of diamond and jewellery manufacturing that are appropriate for them. Gitanjali says it is studying the manufacturing process and learning from its experience so that it will be able to understand which type of work is suitable for a person with a particular disability.

During the training period, out-of-town trainees are provided boarding and lodging free of costs while locals receive a stipend in lieu of this. After the training and gaining some work experience at Gitanjali’s factory, the firm looks at helping the PWD trainees find employment in the industry.

The initiative is currently in place at Gitanjali’s Hyderabad facility. The firm plans to replicate it in Surat and Mumbai, which are the jewellery and diamond manufacturing hubs of India. IdeX

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GItanJalI wins csr awarD for eMPowerMent

Handicapped workers at the Gitanjali plant

Finance Minister Pranab Mukherjee (centre) and Gitanjali CSR Head Mayuri Asar (right)


amas, the Dubai-based jewellery and watch retailer, has announced that it has recently been appointed

as the exclusive authorised Forevermark Jeweller in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). Forevermark is the diamond brand from the De Beers Group of companies and this is the first time it will be available in the Middle East.

“We are delighted to be appointed as the first and exclusive authorised Forevermark Jeweller in the UAE,” said Anan Fakhreddin, CEO of Damas. “Customers who buy Forevermark have the assurance that they are buying high quality diamonds that come with the promise that they are beautiful, rare and responsibly sourced.”

Stephen Lussier, CEO of Forevermark, said “We are delighted to welcome Damas as the latest partner into the rapidly growing global Forevermark network. As the leading jewellery retailer in the Middle East with a long association with some of the world’s most well- known and prestigious brands, Damas was the obvious choice for

our expansion into the UAE and beyond. We look forward to a strong partnership where Damas’ knowledge and experience of the consumer in the Gulf works in harmony with Forevermark’s expertise in diamonds.”

Forevermark collections will soon be available at six Damas stores within the UAE, specifically in the Marina Mall Abu Dhabi boutique, the Mall of Emirates boutique, the Dubai Mall boutique, the Deira City Centre store, and two stores in the Dubai Gold Souk. Damas has confirmed that it plans to increase the number of outlets that retail Forevermark to 13 by the end of 2012.

“We are very excited about the potential of Forevermark in this region, which is why we are finalizing plans to expand this partnership across the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) region within a short time frame. This is an exceptional brand and we are sure it will be very well received by our discerning customers,” Fakhreddin concluded. IdeX

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Forevermark aPPoints DaMas as authoriseD uae Jeweller

Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle (left), Gitanjali Chairman Mehul Choksi (centre) and Neha Dhupia at the inauguration

Ian harebottle, neha dhuPIa inaugurate ‘leaDing italian Jewels’ in singaPore

he Gitanjali Group announced its foray into Singapore with the launch of its first store “Leading

Italian Jewels” at the Raffles Hotel. This flagship store was inaugurated by Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle along with Gitanjali Group Chairman and Managing Director Mehul Choksi and Bollywood actress Neha Dhupia. The store offers a blend of high-end Italian jewellery brands.

Speaking at the occasion, Choksi observed, “We have always believed that wearing great pieces of jewellery makes a woman look and feel beautiful. This elegant store will not only draw the locals here but will also appeal to those visiting Singapore.”

The store offers Gitanjali’s Italian brands like Stefan Hafner, Io Si, Porrati, Valentino Milano and more.IdeX

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ollywood stars Emraan Hashmi & Kalki Koechlin unveiled the new monsoon collection of Maya Jewels

by Gitanjali at its showroom at South Extension in Delhi while simultaneously promoting their movie Shanghai.

The latest collection is a blend of gold and diamond jewellery in different shapes that “easily denotes the different flavours of the season which can be teamed up with any attire”.

Speaking on the occasion, Kalki Koechlin said, “I am glad that Maya Jewels by Gitanjali has given us the opportunity to unveil their new monsoon collection and also promote our upcoming movie, Shanghai on the same platform. I love their jewellery pieces as its unique and beautifully designed.”

Adding to that, the talented Emraan Hashmi, said, “I assure you that Shanghai will be an interesting watch for the movie lovers. And I am thankful to Maya Jewels by Gitanjali for giving us this platform to promote our film.” IdeX

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emraan hashmI & kalkI koeChlIn unveil Maya Jewels Monsoon collection

Kalki Koechlin (centre) and Emraan Hashmi (right) unveil the monsoon collection

The Hari Krishna group’s Ghanshyam Dholakia (second from left) and Savji Dholakia (third from left) at the function

isna , the VVS diamond jewellery brand that was launched by the Hari Krishna Group in 2005,

marked the sixth year of its retailer loyalty program at a function on May 5 in Mumbai. The event featured a lucky draw with a range of cars and motorcycles as prizes.

The Kisna brand is distributed through 425 distributors to over 5,000 outlets in 329 cities located in 27 states. The brand boasts 1,450 retail outlets in Mumbai alone. Kisna says 3,914 retailers have enrolled in the retailer loyalty program which entails them buying previously agreed amounts of Kisna product every month. The agreed purchase levels range between Rs.25,000 and Rs.50 lakh every month.IdeX

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kIsna MarKs retailer loyalty PrograM anniversary

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IDEX India Retail, July 2012