SECTION J

THE REAR ROAD SPRINGS(I~ and 2~ LITRE)

General Description.

Section No. J.l Removal and replacement of the rear springs.

Section No. J.2 Dismantling and reassembling the springs.

Section No. J.3 Maintenance of the rear springs.

GENERAL DESCRIPTIONThe semi-elliptic leaf springs of the rear suspension

are bolted to the axle by means of “U” bolts.The seatings for the” U bolts are fabric lined and a

certain amount of rotational movement is allowedbetween the axle and the bolts. A hexagon dowelprevents excessive movement.

Both ends of the springs are mounted in rubber-bushed shackles and the spring leaves themselvesshould be lubricated every 3,000 miles (5000 km.)with oil to Ref. F (page P.2). Care must be takento ensure that no oil finds its way onto the rubberbushes of the spring eyes.

Spring action is controlled by Girling piston-typedouble-acting hydraulic dampers on early models andlater by telescopic dampers.

Section J.1

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THEREAR SPRINGS

Raise the rear of the car and jack up under the rearaxle so that the spring “ U “ bolts can be detached andthe shock absorber arm freed from its mounting.

Undo the shackle bolt nuts at the rear end of thespring and remove the bolts. Repeat for the front

end.When refitting, make quite sure that the spring is

the correct way round. The bolt which passes throughthe middle of the leaves is 23k in. (59 cm.) from thefront shackle and 22k in. (56.5 cm.) from the rear.The front portion of the spring also has two springclips and the rear only one.

When a spring is being refitted, always lower thecar onto its wheels so that the springs are subjectedto their normal load before tightening the shacklebolts. This is essential to prevent excessive wear ofthe bushes through greater flexing in one direction.

Section J.2

DISMANTLING AND REASSEMBLING

THE SPRINGS

To dismantle the rear road springs the clai~p boltsof thethreespring clips should be undone and removed,after which the centre b,91t may be taken out. It isadvisable to clamp the leaves together while thecentre bolt is released.

Clean each leaf and examine for cracks and breaj~age.Check the centre bolt for wear or distortion. Renewany defective or worn parts. When fitting newleaves it is important that they are of the same length,thickness and curvature as the originals.

Fig. ].I.The spring shackle and rubber bushes. Note that thedistance washer is on the inside on the front shackle

and ,on the outside on the rear shackle.

Section J.3

MAINTENANCE OF THE REAR SPRINGS

No oil or grease should be applied to the shacklebearings as they are of the flexing rubber type.

The springs themselves should be sprayed with oilevery 3,000 miles (5000 km.), but care must be takennot to allow the oil to get onto the bushes.

J. I

KSECTION K

THE FRONT SUSPENSION(I~ and 2~ LITRE)

General Description.

Maintenance.

Section No. K.l

Section No. K.2

Section No. K.3

Section No. K.4

Section No. K.5

Section No. K.6

Section No. K.7

Section No. K.8

Section No. K.9

Section No. K.lO

Section No. K. II

Section No. K.12

Section No. K.13

Section No. K.14

Removing a torsion bar.

Replacing and resetting the torsion bars.

Removal of the front suspension unit.

To change a swivel pi.n assembly.

To dismantle the swivel pin assembly.

To remove a front hub.

To dismantle the front hub.

To remove the steering gearbox.

To change a track-rod.

To dismantle the steering gear.

To dismantle the bottom strut assembly.

To dismantle the upper strut assembly.

Note on front suspension struts.

Setting the steering stops.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

The independent front suspension is built up as acomplete unit which is bolted to the front face of theframe.

Springing is by short torsion bars lying parallel tothe frame sides and located at the front end by inter-nallysplined sleeves which carry the lower suspensionstruts.

At the rear the torsion bars locate in splined adjust-ing cams which are used for setting the suspensionarms to the correct position.

The lower struts are splined to the outside of thesleeve which takes the front end of the torsion bar

and the sleeve oscillates in the front suspensioncradle on large rubber bushes.

The upper struts are rubber-bushed and. pivot ona fixed spindle which is held in position in the frontcradle by means of retaining plates, one of which issplined internally to prevent rotation.

The outer ends of the struts carry the swivel pinbearings on rubber bushes, whilst the swivel pin itselfis threaded at each end to turn in thesimilarly threadedbushes on the bearing.

The telescopic shock absorbers are mountedbetween the outer ends of the lower struts and thetop of the cradle.

K. I

K THE FRONT SUSPENSION

MAINTENANCENormal maintenance consists of lubrication of the

swivel pin bearings (two grease nipples are fitted toeach swivel pin assembly) and the track-rod ends.

Each grease nipple should receive two or threestrokes from a hand grease gun every 500 miles(800 km.). Do not use a high-pressure gun.

The recommended lubricants are indicated underreference D on page P.2.

Section K.lREMOVING A TORSION BAR

Raise the front of the car until the wheels are wellclear of the ground and then disconnect the retainingplate at the rear end of the bar. Now ease the camadjuster a small amount and take off the rubber capat the front. Now tap the bar towards the back orthe front of the car, whichever is the most convenient.

Note.—Do not scribe or punch-mark the torsion bars,and make sure they are fitted to the same side of the carfrom which they were removed. They are not inter-changeable, and it is essential that their surfaces shouldbe devoid of damage of any sort.

Section K.2REPLACING AND RESETTING THE

TORSION BARSWith the car jacked up, slacken the cam adjuster

right back so that full adjustment will be available.Bear down very slightly on the wheel and knock the

(I{ and 2~ LITRE)

torsion bar in from the front or rear, whichever isthe most convenient. Fit the retaining plate and lockit in position.

If the special setting gauge is not available thefollowing is the procedure for setting up the front

suspensionSet tyre pressuras to 24 lb.1’sq. in. (1.7 kg./cm.

2).Dimensions at A,” in the illustration K.l, should

be l~ in. (38.1 mm.) more than dimensions at “ B,”measurements being taken from the centres of theattachments C “ and D “ to level ground.

Fig. K.I.The illustration on theright shows the settingpoints from whichdimensions must betal(en if a gauge is not

available.

I

Fig. K.2.

The torsion bar adjuster.

K.2

(1+ and 2{ LITRE) THE FRONT SUSPENSION Klfthis difference in height is less than I ~ in. (38.1 mm.)

the dimensions must be increased, the procedurebeing as follows

The front of the car must be jacked up until thewheels are completelycIe~r of the ground ; the weightof the car will then be removed from the suspension.This point is very important and on no account mustany attempt be made to increase the dimensions at“A “ with the weight of the car on its front wheels.

The adjusters at the rear ends of the torsion barsshould now be screwed in to effect the necessaryalteration in height between “ A “ and “ B.”

The car must now be lowered onto its road wheelsagain and the springing allowed to settle by rockingthe front end up and down a few times.. Dimensions“A “ and “ B “ should now be re-checked.

If the difference between “A “ and “ B “ is nowgreater than l~ in. (38.1 mm.) there is no need tojack the car up again in order to decrease this dimen-sion. It is only necessary to screw the adjusters outuntil the correct measurement is obtained.

Important Note.—The track must be parallel (i.e.with no “ toe-in “) when the struts are set with a differ-ence of I~ in. (31.75 mm.) between dimensions “Aand “ B.” Each adjuster must then be screwed in untilthe I ~ in. (38. I mm.) running setting is obtained. Thiswill mean approximately I ~ turns on each adjusting screw.No-further adjustment to the track should be made afterit has been set at the 1k in. (31.75 mm.) dimension.

Always check the track at the same points on thewheel rims in order to allow for manufacturingtolerance. This can be ensured by marking the rimsat the point where the first track measurement istaken (at axle height) and then rotating both wheelsthrough exactly half a revolution and taking thesecond measurement.

Special Tool number ST.97 is also available forsetting the front suspension. This tool obviates thenecessity to check the dimensions given above.

Section K.3

REMOVAL OF FRONT SUSPENSION UNITDrain the water from thecooling system as explained

under Section D.l and then disconnect the positivebattery terminal.

Take off the bonnet as described in Section D.2.Undo the radiator steadies at the front and dis-

connect the radiator hoses, one at the header tankand the other at the water pump inlet.

Take off the fan blades by undoing the four screwsholding them to the pulley boss.

Remove the radiator as detailed in Section D.2.

Undo the small nuts and bolts holding the pipingto the radiator grille and remove the grille by undoingthe two fixing nuts at the bottom and removing thetwo small nuts and bolts half-way up each side.

Disconnect all the electric cables at the snap con-nectors, marking them where necessary to preventconfusion later.

Disconnect the fog-lamps at the snap connectorsunder the front extension.

Remove the four bolts holding the front extensionassembly to the lower edges of the wings, then takeoff the piping.

Fig. K.~.The fixing bolts on one side are ringed.

Fig. K.3.The bumper assembly complete.

K.3

K THE FRONT SUSPEX~Ii11V (1+ and 2{ LITRE)

Take off the front extension complete with bumpersand fog-lamps. There are four bolts each side at thetop and four on the under side. The four on theunder side hold the lower support, which must bebent slightly to clear as the assembly is pulled off.

Fig. K.5.The weight of the unit is taken on a sling.

Lift the front wheels well clear of the ground andblock up the chassis underneath the forward bodymounting brackets. Take off the front wheels.I Disconnect and remove both horns and thenunscrew the union nut on the hydraulic pipe at itsT-junction on the right-hand side of the suspensionunit. Catch the fluid that escapes in a clean container.

Detach the clips holding the sidelamp cables to thewing stays and remove the latter. (Note the rubberpads at the top.)

Take off the bonnet sides.Remove the steering column complete. (See

Section R. 10.)Take off the ignition coil.Take off the front wings. There are three bolts at

the joint between the wing and the running-boardI and also three on each chromium strip to be undone.In addition there are four self-tapping screws thatscrew vertically upwards into the body. On the sideopposite the steering column there is a small screw

holding a mudshield to the chassis frame.Next undo the torsion bar retainers at the rear of

the bars, remove the rubber caps on the front endsf the lower strut inner sleeves, ease the adjusters

slightly and tap the torsion bars rearwards until theyre clear of thefront cradle. If the bars are removedompletely make sure they are replaced on theame sides.Now disconnect the front engine steady by undoing

he self-locking nut.

On the 2A- litre take off the fan pulley and bracketafter releasing the split clamp, and then jack up. theengine under its forward end so that the mountingbracket may be detached from the timing case.(Nate.—There may be a certain amount of stiffnesson the rubber blocks.)

On the 1+ litre jack up under the engine and removethe four engine mounting bolts.

The suspension unit should now be supported on ajack or slung from an overhead pulley so that the nutson the ten fixing bolts can be removed.

Note that four bolts enter from the front of theunit and six from the rear.

When refitting the suspension unit, remember thefour bolts with their heads facing forwards, and, ifthe steering gearbox has been removed, leave theclamp bolts loose so that the steering column positionsthe box before tightening.

Refitting the torsion bars is quite simple and theymay be knocked in after the adjusters have beenslackened right back to provide a full range of adjust-ment.

When assembly is complete, lower the car ontoits wheels and set the front suspension as explainedin Section K.2.

Fig. K.6.Exploded view of a swivelpin assembly, showing thethreaded swivel pin, therubber bushes and themethod of locating the top

housing spindle.

I

Section K.4

TO CHANGE A SWIVEL PIN ASSEMBLYTake off the road wheel.Take off the hub and back plate as described in

Section K.6 and remove the bolt which clamps thetwo outer ends of the upper struts. Undo the twoSimmonds nuts at the front ends of the link bearingspindles. The spindles are shouldered at both endsand dowelled at the front.

K.4

(I{ and 2{ LITRE) THE FRONT SUSPENSION KUndo the nut on the front end of the spindle which

carries the inner ends of the top struts. The nut islocked with a lock washer. Remove the nut and takeoff the front upper arm, which is rubber-bushed.

Disconnect the lower mounting for the shockabsorber and detach the rebound bracket and pad.

Now remove the Simmonds nut on the front endof the lower swivel and take off the rubber cap andspring locking ring on the ring nut holding the innerend of the lower strut to the splined sleeve. Undothis ring nut with a “C” spanner. Tap the lower armforwards and then pull the swivel pin assembly away.

Fig K7Method of removing a swivel pin assembly.

Section K.5

TO DISMANTLE THE SWIVEL PINASSEMBLY

Remove the assembly as described in Section K.4.Unscrew the bearing assembly from each end of the

swivel pin. The spindle bearings are rubber bushesand are easily removed.

The threaded outer bushes on the swivel bearingsand the plain inner bushes are a press fit in the housing.

When reassembling, screw the bearing assembliesonto the swivel pin until they come up against the

stop and then turn them back slightly so that fullmovement is obtained. This will be approximatelyhalf a turn.

Note.—When refitting the swivel pin assembly to thestruts make quite sure that the swivel pin lies between thelink bearing spindle and the cradle at the top, whilst atthe battam it lies autside the link spindle. If this is not sathe whale af the steering geametry will be incorrect.

Section K.6

TO REMOVE A FRONT HUBTake off the wheel. Screw back the brake adjusters

and remove the three countersunk screws holding thebrake-drum to the hub. Lift off the drum.

Fig. K.9.Pulling off the front hub.

Fig. K.8.Close-up view of a top strut swivel bearing.

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K TilE FRONT SUSPENSIOIV (I{ and 2~ LITRE)

Unscrew the bearing cap with a “C,, spanner andremove the split pin holding the large castellated nut.

Undo the nut and pick out the pegged washer.Use Special Tool ST.84 to draw off the hub on thel~ litre and ST.64 for the 2~ litre.

Section K.7TO DISMANTLE THE FRONT HUB

Remove the hub as described in Section K.6.Knock out the pin which is used to lock the large

ring nut in position and then unscrew the nut with a“C” spanner. Note the oil seal in the ring nut. If thisseal is damaged or if it is removed at any time makesure that a new part is fitted.

Knock out the large bearing with a drift and ahammer. Withdraw the conical spacer and note thatthe small end faces outwards.

Knock out the smaller bearing. When refittingmake sure that the bearings come up hard againsttheir housings. The dished part of the large washergoes inwards, If this washer is assembled incorrectlythere is a danger of the bearing disintegrating.

Position the cone-shaped distance-piece centrallybefore retightening and locking the large unit.

Section K.3TO REMOVE THE STEERING GEARBOX

Take out the steering column as explained inSection R.lO.

Disconnect the outer ends of the track-rods byremoving the Simmonds nuts, and jar the ball ends outof their tapers.

Fig. K.lO.Lifting the steering gearbox from the suspension

unit.

Fig. K.ll.Tapping o~t a front wheel bearing.

Undothe nuts on the two large bolts passing throughthe two mounting brackets and knock the bolts back.

Remove the four small hexagon-headed screws andlift the steering gearbox clear of the front cradle.

Section K.9

TO CHANGE A TRACK-RODRemove the Simmonds nuts on each ball joint and

then jar the ends off the tapers so that the track-rodmay be lifted away.

When refitting a new rod make sure that it isadjusted so that the front wheels are set parallel.

Section K.1O

TO DISMANTLE THE STEERING GEARRemove the steering gearbox as described in

Section K.8.Take off the mounting bracket on the side farthest

from the pinion housing. Remove the two counter-sunk locating screws in the collar, detach the rubbersleeve and knock the collar away.

Tap out the end bearing housing, which will comeaway complete with its spherical bush. To remove

I

K.8 Riley 1+ and 24 Litre, Issue 2 (H & E) 87302—5/54

(I~ and 2~ LITRE) TIlE FRONT SUSPENSION K

the bush, should renewal be necessary, turn it througha right angle and pull it out through the two slots.

Now remove the plunger housing complete withthe plunger and spring, which is held at the foot of thepinion housing by three nuts. Note and take care ofthe brass shims.

To take out the pinion detach the cover which isheld by three screws, take off the shims and pull thegear upwards. The bearings are of the taper rollertype.

Detach the end of the rubber gaiter where it fitsover the pinion housing and the rack can then be fedout of its casing by rotating the pinion until the gearsare out of mesh. It will then be possible to pull therack away complete with the double eye and bothtrack-rods.

The rack is threaded to take the double eye and theinner spherical bearing, both of which are alsothreaded.

When the steering gear has been reassembled,grease to Ref. D (page P.2) should be fed in through the

Fig. K.13.Detaching the two countersunk screws on the locating

collar.

Section K.11

TO DISMANTLE THE BOTTOM STRUTASSEMBLY

Jack up the car.Remove the front wheel.Remove the torsion bar. (See Section K.l.)Remove the bracket carrying the rubber buffer.Remove the lower mounting bracket for the shock

absorber and take off the front Simmonds nut holdingthe link bearing spindle in place.

Pick off both lock rings holding the ring nuts on theinner pivots and undothefront nutwitha” C “spanner.

Pull off the front arm.Unscrew the two small hexagon set screws holding

the distance tube in the pivot housing~

plunger housing, and also via a grease nipple, whichshould be substituted for the stop screw locatedfarthest from the pinion end of the assembly.

Fig. K.14.The plunger housing.

K.9

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K THE FRONT SUSPF1~Ub~ (1+ and 2~ LITRE)

Undo and remove the nut and bolt passing throughthe two lugs at the outer ends of the top arms.

Remove the front Simmonds nut on the top linkbearing spindle.

Take off the top front strut and jift off the swivelpin assembly. With the lower rear strut still attachedto the splined sleeve, rotate the arm so that the sleeve,rubber bushes and distance-piece are worked out oftheir housing.

When assembling, the distance tube and rubberbushes should be fitted to the spilned sleeve and theassembly inserted in the cradle, after which the setscrews for the distance-piece should be fitted.

Note that assembly will be very difficult, if notimpossible, if french chalk is not used on the rubber.

The distance-piece must be fitted the correct wayround, as must the splined tube, otherwisethe torsionbar wili not engage with the internal splines. In thiscase the internal splines must be nearest the rear end.

Section K.12

TO DISMANTLE THE UPPER STRUTASSEMBLY

Remove the nut and bolt ciamping the two outerends of the struts. Take off the Simmonds nuts onthe link bearing spindle.

Bend back the locking tab on each nut on the innerspindle and take off the nuts. The arms will now puiloff. Note that in this case the arms themseives arerubber-bushed and the spindle is held in place byretaining plates, one of which is splined.

If this upper spindle is bent at any time it must bedriven out and new bronze bushes fitted to the holesin the cradle.

Section K.13

NOTE ON FRONT SUSPENSIONSTRUTS

if it is necessary to change a strut or pair of strutsat anytime this may be done by removing, for example,the front strut and replacing it with the new one,then taking off the rear strut and fitting the replace-ment part at this point.

This method of substitution is much easier thanallowing the swivei pin assembly to faii away.

Section K.14

SETTING THE STEERING STOPSIt is most important that the steering stops at the

ends of the rack housings be correctly reset wheneverthey have been disturbed for greasing the steeringgearbox, or for any other reason, in order to providethe greatest possible amount of lock without riskof the tyre contacting part of the chassis when thewheels are hard over.

To set the stops, jack the car so that both frontwheels are clear of the ground and turn the steeringWheel till the road wheels are at full lock in onedirection. Check the clearance between the rearedge of the tyre on the inside of the turn and thechassis. There should not be iess than ~ in. (19 mm.)between the tyre and the nearest point on the chassis.

Any appreciable deviation from this clearance mustbe corrected by adjustment of the appropriate stop.

Repeat the test with the wheels on the other lockand make quite sure that the stop screw locknuts aretightened up adequately.

K. 12