HughJohnson’sPocketWineBook2014

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AcknowledgementsThisstoreofdetailedrecommendationscomespartlyfrommyownnotesandmainlyfromthoseofagreatnumberofkindfriends.Withoutthegeneroushelpandcooperationofinnumerablewinemakers,merchantsandcritics,Icouldnotattemptit.Iparticularlywanttothankthefollowingforhelpwithresearchorintheareasoftheirspecialknowledge:

SarahAhmed,HelenaBaker,SusieBarrieMW,NicolasBelfrageMW,PhilippBlom,JimBudd,MichaelCooper,TerryCopeland,ColeDanehower,MichaelEdwards,SarahJaneEvansMW,RosemaryGeorgeMW,CarolineGilbyMW,AnthonyGismondi,AnnieKay,ChandraKurt,JamesLawtherMW,KonstantinosLazarakisMW,JohnLivingstone-Learmonth,WesMarshall,CampbellMattinson,AdamMontefiore,JasperMorrisMW,FabricioPortelli,MargaretRand,UlrichSautter,EleonoraScholes,

StephenSkeltonMW,PaulStrang,MargueriteThomas,LarryWalker,PhilipvanZyl

ContentsHowtousethisbookHughJohnsonAgenda2014Vintagereport2012Acloserlookat2011Ifyoulikethis,trythis…GrapevarietiesWine&foodFranceChâteauxofBordeauxItalyGermanyLuxembourgSpain&Portugal

Port,Sherry&MadeiraSwitzerlandAustriaEngland&WalesCentral&SoutheastEuropeHungary,Bulgaria,Slovenia,Croatia,Bosnia&Herzegovina,Macedonia,Serbia,Montenegro,CzechRepublic&SlovakRepublic,Romania,Malta

GreeceEasternMediterranean&NorthAfricaCyprus,Israel,Lebanon,Turkey,NorthAfrica

Asia&OldRussianEmpireUnitedStatesCaliforniaThePacificNorthwest

Northeast,Southeast&CentralTheSouthwest

MexicoCanadaSouthAmericaChile,Argentina,OtherSouthAmericanwines

AustraliaNewZealandSouthAfricaBurgundyandotherPinotNoirsQuick-referencevintagechartsAlittlelearning/therighttemperature

Howtousethisbook

Thetoplineofmostentriesconsistsofthefollowing

information:

1.AglianicodelVultureBas2.rdr(s/swsp)3.★★★4.96’97980001’02(03)

1.AglianicodelVultureBasWinenameandtheregionthewinecomesfrom,abbreviationsofregionsarelistedineachsection.

2.rdr(s/swsp)Whetheritisred,rosé,orwhite(orbrown/amber);dry,sweet,orsparkling;orseveralofthese(andwhichismostimportant):r redp roséw white

br browndr dry*sw sweets/sw semi-sweetsp sparkling()Bracketsheredenotealessimportantwine.★Assumewineisdrywhendrorswarenotindicated.

3.★★★Itsgeneralstandingastoquality:anecessarilyrough-and-readyguidebasedonitscurrentreputationasreflectedinitsprices:★ plain,everydayquality★★ aboveaverage★★★ wellknown,highlyreputed★★★★ grand,prestigious,expensive

Somuchismoreorlessobjective.Additionallythereisasubjectiverating:

★etc. Starsarecolouredforanywinewhichinmyexperienceisusuallyespeciallygoodwithinitspricerange.Therearegoodeverydaywinesaswellasgoodluxurywines.Thissystemhelpsyoufindthem.

4.96’97980001’02(03)Vintageinformation:thoserecentvintagesthatcanberecommended;andofthese,whicharereadytodrinkthisyear,andwhichwillprobablyimprovewithkeeping.Yourchoiceforcurrentdrinkingshouldbeoneofthevintageyearsprintedinboldtype.Buylight-typeyearsforfurthermaturing.

00etc. Recommendedyearsthatmaybecurrentlyavailable.96’etc. Vintageregardedasparticularlysuccessfulforthe

propertyinquestion.97etc. Yearsinboldshouldbereadyfordrinking(thosenot

inboldwillbenefitfromkeeping).98etc. Vintagesincolourarethoserecommendedasfirst

choicefordrinkingin2013.(SeealsoChateauxofBordeauxintroduction)

(02)etc. Provisionalrating.

TheGermanvintagesworkonadifferentprincipleagain:seeGermanvintagenotation.

Otherabbreviations&stylesDYA Drinktheyoungestavailable.NV Vintagenotnormallyshownonlabel;in

Champagnethismeansablendofseveralvintagesforcontinuity.

CHABLIS

Properties,areas,ortermscross-referredwithinthesection;allgrapescross-reftoGrapevarieties.

Aiguilloux Entriesstyledthiswayindicatewine(mid-2012–2013)especiallyenjoyedbyHughJohnson.

Agenda2014

Howmanymomentousthingshavehappenedinwineinthepast

37years?Onmywatch,asitwere,sinceIstartedthisannualsurveyin1977?Dozens,istheanswer:awholerevolution,infact–butgradually.

I’maconservativeatheart,andoftenfoundmyselfalonevoiceinsaying“toomuchoak”,“toomuchalcohol”,orwhateverexcesswasinfashion.Happilythebalanceisgenerallyredressed;thenaturalneedforwhatwinenaturallyis–amiraculouslydigestible,infinitelyvariousdelight–assertsitself,andwearebetterservedbywinemakersthanever.

Takingthelongview,though,Idobelieveweareatatippingpoint:anhistoricpivotintasteandemphasis.UptonowtheultimatestandardsofstyleandqualityhavebeenfundamentallysetbywhatIstillcalltheOldWorld,whichinwinetermsisEurope.ItwasFrancethatinventedfinewine,orwineasaluxury,andrefineditintoanartform.Frenchgrapevarietieswerethefirsttobe

transplantedtonewlandsandusedasmodels.Theystilldominate,buttheyarenolongertheonlyones,andmaynotevendominateforever.ItwasFrancethatfirstneeded,anddevised,systemsofnamingwinesbywhatevercombinationofplace,grapevarietyandstyleneededdefinition,andcouldbeprotectedbylaw.Itisstillnot90yearssinceappellationsbecamecontrôlées.Noweveryregionneedssomewayoforganizingitslabels.Andindeed,it’sstillchaos,withabedlamofbrandsthatmayormaynothaveanystablebaseorviticulturalreality.

TurningpointSowhatisthepivot?Whatisthebigchangethatwewill(gradually)cometoaccept?Itistheendofthehegemonyof“theclassics”,theendofFranceasthecynosure(whyalltheseGreekwords?Becausewe’retalkingclassics).Itisweightofnumbers,thesheermassthatistippingthescales.Therearemorewines,andfarmoredrinkers,intheworldweseecomingintobeingthaninthe

onethatwasalreadycompleted30or40yearsago.Thequestionofwhethertheyarebetterornotsogoodisfadingfromtheheadlines.ItwasoncederigueurtomatchtheMédocandtheNapaValley,theCôted’OrandChardonnaygrowninmanyplaces,PinotNoirfromBurgundyandOregonorNewZealand.Theideaisbecomingoldhat.Howevergoodtoday’sburgundy,otherpeople’sPinotisnolongerameresubstitute.Thatisthetippingpoint,thepointwhereinsistingon“theoriginal”beginstoseemprecious,pretentious,orjustplaindim.

Besides,westartedwiththeNewWorld(tosticktothesenow-archaicterms)imitatingtheOld;thentheOldWorldstartedatleastpickinguptechnologyfrom–ifnotdownrightimitating–theNew.NowtheNewWorldisadoptingOldWorldideas:learning,forexample,thatripenessisfarfrombeingall,thatacidityisneededtobalancesugar,thatanipofperceptibletanninisappetizing…andeven(inhushedwhispers)thataflavouronceregardedwithhorror

as“green”(or“herbaceous”or“bell-pepper”)isanessentialelementinthefinestCabernets.

“Fruit”(asinthatdreadfulexpression“fruit-driven”)isnolongerthebe-allandend-all.Australians(someofthem)keepthestemsintheirPinotNoirandShiraz.Chileansarediscoveringthatlessirrigationgivesthembetterwine.Everybodyisfindingoutthatoakcanbeanexpensiveone-trickpony,andthatitsmostimportantroleisnotinaddingflavourbutitshistoricone:toningwinesforamoreorlessextendedmaturationinbottle.

Andconsumersarediscoveringthatdeep-redcolourinnoindicationofquality;dyeisnotanexpensiveingredient.Notthatprogressonanyofthesefrontswillchangeconsumers’mindsovernight.Tankerscanbeeasiertoturnaround.Wineseemstomakepeopleputtheirheadsinthesand.The“Ionlydrink…”schoolisnotgoingaway.Sauvignonisin,Rieslingout,notfora

seasonortwobutforageneration.Question:whatotherproductharbourssuchprejudicesforsolong?

Soatlasttheplayingfieldthatistheworld’sever-expandingvineyardbeginstolevelout.Neverforget,though,thatitisaplayingfieldwithniches.Nichescanappearfromnowhere,too,buttheycanhaveextraordinaryvigourandpersistence.DoIlikeMadeira,orTokaji,becausehistoryhandeditdowntome,orbecauseitdeliversapleasurethatnoone,anywhere,canreproduce?HunterSemillon,MoselRiesling,SyrahfromCôte-Rôtieareexpressionsofgrapeandgroundcompletelysuigeneris.It’stemptingtoseetheminbiologicalterms,asspeciesasdistinctasameerkatoranimperialfritillary–false,ofcourse,buttempting.Thesedistinctidentitieswillsurvive,Iamcertain.Butbetter,theywillbejoinedbyotheruncopiableoriginalsasyetundiscovered.

Overload?

Thereisanotheraspecttothiscosmicexpansion–thechoiceofenjoyablewinesgrowingsofastthatnoagency,certainlynoindividual,andeventhisbookonlybysuperhumaneffort,cankeepup.Thereisadangerofoverload.Theinternet,ofcourse,isourinstantrecourse:thereisprobablyareferencesomewhereincyberspace.Googlebeforeyougargle.Butspaceislonely,andit’seasytogetlost.Ifyousuddenlyfeelitisurgenttoknowthenameofawinemaker,thepreciseextentofavineyard,orthepercentageofMerlotinablendtothreedecimalpoints,goonlineandyou’llprobablyfindit.Youcaneasilyfindthesellingpriceandnameofasupplier.Theremaywellbetastingnotes,variousscores.Soknowledgeisathand–opinion,too.Butunderstanding?

Theobverseofallthesejostlingfactsisasenseofhelplessness,afeelingverylikedrowning.ItcomesonwhenIreadbacklabelsthattellmemorethanIneedorwanttoknow–aboutthesoil,thesubsoil,theblend,thetemperatureoffermentation,theantiquityof

thefamily,thenameofthemanwhomadethebarrels.Thereisaforestoffactsouttherethatdonothingformyenjoymentorappreciation,buteverythingformyfeelingofinadequacy.Granted,allthismaybemeatanddrinktostatisticians,tohobbyists,tosommeliers.However,tothelumpenmassofuswhojustlikewineandwanttofindfreshsourcesofpleasure,freshliquidsweethearts,thetechnicalstuffisabarrier.“Tellmesomethingaboutthisbottle,”weplead,“thatdoesn’tmakemewishI’dstayedawakeinchemistry.”Tellus,inotherwords,astory.It’sstoriesthatdrawustonewsubjects.Storiesstick;residualsugardoesn’t–ornotinthesamesense.Somepartsofthewineworldknowthis;othersneedtofindoutbeforetheydriftoffintooenospace.

Irritatingasitmaybetowinemakerswhoareperfectionistsineverythingtheydo,andwanttheworldtoknowit,itishumanconnectivenessthatdrivesmostwine-buyingdecisions,andnearlyallofitsenjoyment.Itisfacesandplacesmostpeoplethinkabout

astheyclinktheirglasses–andquiteright,too.Whataretheconcernsoftheimmediatefuture?Chinaisthetopicofthemoment.WilltheChinesegobbleupalltheworld’swine?Myself,Idoubtit.Inthepastthreeyearsorsowinehasbeenacraze,avehicleforconspicuousconsumptionfirst,forspeculationsecondandforenjoymentmaybe.ButformostChineseitwillremain,fortheforeseeablefuture,atbestagameratherthananarticleofdiet–happilyfortherestofus.Andinthefuturebeyondthat?AttherateChinaisplantingvineyards,in50yearsshecouldbetheworld’sbiggestwineproducer–somostof“ours”couldberedundant.

WinespeakWhentechnicaltermscreepintoourwinevocabularytheyareoftenmisused.Twothatareoftenbandiedaboutthesedaysare“oxidative”and“reductive”.Ithelpstohaveadegreeinchemistrytounderstandthesereferencestothebehaviourofaminoacids.Incommonuse,though,oxidativereferstowinethathashadsufficient

accesstooxygentochangeitscharacterwithoutmakingitunstable(whenitbecomesoxidized).“Nutty”,“mellow”,“dried-fruits”areadjectivesthatmightapply.

“Reductive”issaidofwinesstarvedofoxygenundercertaincircumstances(underscrewcaps,forexample).Theresultcanbesmellsofrubberorbadeggs.It’sallaboutsulphur.

Vintagereport2012

Bizarrely,inBordeaux,2012wasthesixthdriestvintageinthe

last50years.That,anyway,isthewordaccordingtoChâteauChevalBlanc,whichmeasuresnotrainfallbutstem-waterpotential.(Thenextdriestwas1989;thedriestofall2005.)TheFrencharen’tkeenonpicnics,admittedly,butanyonewhoarrangedapicnicinBordeauxinApril,June,orevenJulymightraiseaneyebrowatthisinformation.InBritain,ofcourse,thesummerof2012wasacompletewashout:rain,rain,rain,dayafterday.Englishsparklingwinedidnothaveagoodyear,andsomeproducersdidn’thaveayearatall.Luckilyforallofus,rainmighthavebeenthekeynoteoftheyearinnorthernEurope,butmostplacesdidn’thavethesortofsummerwedid.

InBordeaux,infact,itwasayearofextremesofwetanddry.Itwastheclaysoilsthatregulatedwateravailabilitybest;gravelwaseithertoowetornotwetenough.Therewassomerot,andbythetimethesoundgrapeshadbeenselectedandtherestdiscarded,

quantitieswerewelldown.Yquem,infact,decidednottoreleasea2012atall,andwillonlymakethedrywine,Y.CynicssuggestthatwhatYquemreallywantstodoisreducetheamountofwineonthemarketsothatitcanboostprices.Butwhoknowswhatgoesoninthemindsofluxury-goodscompanies?

WherethevintagewassavedinBordeaux,itwassavedbyawarm,dryAugust.ItwasthesamestoryinChampagne,withtheyearadisasteruntiltheendofJuly.Volumeswerewelldown,though,andmanynon-vintageblendswillrelyonreservewines.AndintheLoire2012seemsparticularlyunfair;Sancerrehadanear-normalquantity,whileMuscadet,alreadystrugglingfinancially,hadatinyquantity.BurgundyandBeaujolais,too,werebothwelldown–thethirdtinyvintageinarowforBurgundy.SomeBeaujolaisgrowersarecertainlyhavingatoughtimefinancially,justasthewinesarestartingtoattractattentionagain,butthesamecan’tbesaidforBurgundy.Herethestoryofthelastyearhasbeentheriseof

burgundyatauction.IsgoodburgundyabouttobecomeasunaffordableasgoodBordeaux?

Luckilyforallofus,thewineworldisnolongercomposedonlyofFrance.InItaly,itwasachallengingyear,smalljustabouteverywhereexceptProsecco,whereenoughnewvineyardsarecomingonstreamtokeepvolumesup.InSpain,itwasexceptionallydryinmostofthecountry,andadropofraininSeptemberhelpedthingsalongnicely.Interestingly,thelocalvarieties(Tempranillo,Garnacha,Monastrell,Cariñenaandtherest)withstoodtheconditionsfarbetterthantheincomers.

Californiawasbacktonormal,withanevenyearandalargecropofripegrapes.

Whatofthesouthernhemisphere?InAustralia,MargaretRiverhadagoodvintage;themarriblossom,justbeforepicking,was

abundant,whichmeantthesilvereyebirdswentforthatratherthanthegrapes.ButWesternAustraliaalwaysseemstohavegoodvintages.Itwasalsogood,thoughrelativelysmall,inSouth

AustraliaandTasmania,thoughwithmuchofVictoriadefiningtheyearbywhopickedbeforeandwhopickedaftertherain;whileoverinNewSouthWalesproducerswerehavingaratherEnglishsortofsummer.

InChile,2012washot,hot,hot,atthetail-endofaLaNiñaweatherpatternofheatanddrought.Presumablythatmeanstheheavenswillopensoon.InBritain,wecanonlysympathize.

Acloserlookat2011Goodbutnotgreatvintagesdon’tmaketheheadlinesanywhere;it’sasthoughtheworldnolongerhasroom,ortime,forthem.Classicwines,itseems,areonlyinterestingintopyears–2009,2010.But2011?Sowhat?

Andyet2011isexactlytherightvintageforthoseofuswhobuytodrink.Burgundy,ifyouchoosewell(whichnormallymeanschoosingyourwinemerchantwell),haslovelywinesin2011.They’reprecise,balanced,focused,aromatic;everythingyouwantfromburgundy.Thedifferencesbetweenvineyardsaren’tassharplydifferentiatedasinsomeyears,buttherearesomedeliciousBourgognesRouges.Whites,too,arefulloffinesseandprecision.It’safairlyearly-drinkingyear,andonetolookforinrestaurantsforitscombinationofpurityandsuppleness.

Bordeaux–well,whatcanyousay?TheBordelaisweregoingtocomedowninprice,anddid,butnotbyasmuchastheysaid,andwhilethewines,redandwhite,areoftendelicious,theyweremostlyrathermoreexpensivethantheyshouldhavebeen.Andgiventhat,atthetimeofwriting,theclassic,andclassicallyhyped,2010shavemostlynotriseninprice,thusmakinganonsenseofthepressuretobuyenprimeur,wecanhappilywaituntilthe2011sareinbottle(whichtheywillbebythetimethisbookappears)andthenmakeupourminds.Theyarelovelydrinkingwines.Andwherethepricesaredrinkingprices,they’llbeaveryniceadditiontoourcellars.

TheRhôneisanotherregionthatproducedlovelydrinkingwinesin2011.Supple,juicy,moreforwardthaninclassicyears,theycombinethebestofmodernviticultureandvinificationwiththetraditionalvirtuesofbalanceandelegance.They’renotforverylongcellaring;buttheywillmaketerrificdrinking.

NorthernItalywasabittoohotforbalanceorelegance;softandlush,yes;substantial,yes.BothTuscanyandPiedmonthadabittoomuchmorealcoholthanisreallycomfortable.ButtheDourohadagreatyear;allthemoreironic,then,thattheofficiallimitforPortproductionin2011wassetatnearlyaquarterlessthanin2010.Theeffectontheregion’s38,000growerscouldbesevere:inthetop-qualityUpperDouro,winecosts€800apipetogrow,andwhilesellingitasPortwillmakeaprofit,tablewinecanonlybesoldforaround€200apipe.Agoodvintage,inthatcase,isneitherherenorthere.OverinGermanythingswerelessuncomfortable.Germanyseemstohavetheknackofpullingarabbitoutofthehateveryyear,anditmanageditagainin2011,withterrificwinesofconcentrationandpureraciness.AndthePinotNoirs,too,benefitedfromwarmweatherthatwasnottoowarm.

California,though,hadthevintagethatwinemakersdread:coolandsoggy,withrotracingthroughthevineyards.Butearlytastings

suggestthatit’sfarfrombeingadisaster.Ifsweet,ripewinesarewhatyouwantfromCalifornia,thenthisisn’ttheyearforyou;butifyoulongforfreshness,brightnessandloweralcohol,you’llfindsomewinesyoulove.HigheracidityandlowerpHarethekey,andthebestarebeautiful.InOregon,PinotNoirhadagreatyearin2011.TheidealyearforOregonPinotinvolveslonghangtimes,lower-than-averageyieldsandrainfall,andnottoomuchheat,allofwhichweredulydelivered.ManygrapeswerenotpickeduntilthefirstweekofNovember,andthebalanceisbeautiful.

Inthesouthernhemisphere,SouthAfricawasunusuallyhotanddryduringpicking,afterasummermarkedbyheatwaves;acertainburlinesscanbeseeninsomewines.InChilethegrowingseasonwasgentleandrathercool,andthewineshaveextrafinesseasaresult.ButinChile,especially,thefocusonnew,cooler,fresherregionstendsanywaytomitigatetheeffectofsummerheat–muchoftheworld,atlast,iscomingroundtotheideaofproducingwines

thatwecanactuallydrink.Notheadline-making,maybe,butgoodnewsnevertheless.

Ifyoulikethis,trythis

It’snotobligatorytolikeallwines.Butwhenfacedwithanew

wineitcanbehelpfultorelateittowineswealreadyknow.Winescanresembleeacheachotherintexture,aroma,flavour,orstructure–justastwopeopleacontinentapartmaysharethesamesenseofhumour.

IfyoulikeSauternes,tryBonnezeauxIsBonnezeauxFido’sfavouritewine?Probablynot,givenitshighacidity.Sweetwinesneedhighacidity,ortheybecomecloyingandsoupy,andneitherSauternesnorBonnezeauxisevercloying.Sauternesis,ofcourse,thegreatsweetwhiteofBordeaux:botrytis-affected,goldenyellowandaromaticwithmarzipanandapricots.BonnezeauxisCheninBlancfromtheLoire:botrytis-affected,goldenyellow,steelierandmoreappleythanSauternesinyouth,withinherentlyevenhigheracidity,butlivingaslongasanyofus.(Laysomedownforagodchild.)Botharevastlyunderpriced.

IfyoulikeChampagne,trytopCava

Cavagenerallyismuchbetterthanitusedtobe(which,agreed,doesn’tsoundlikeacompellingreasontotryit),butthetopwinesaresimplysplendid.InsteadofthebriocheandsmokeflavoursofgoodChampagne,imaginecorianderandcitruszest,mineraledgeandplentyofdepth.Thesearewinesofweightandpower:drinkthemwithfood;Catalansdo.TopCavahasguts(tryGramona,Recaredo,thenewGranCodorníuGranReservawinesfromCodorníu).

IfyoulikeSoave,tryIstrianMalvaziaMentiontheword“Soave”andit’shopedyouwillinstantlythinkofClassicowinesfromgoodgrowers:wines,inotherwords,ofminerality,subtlety,vinosityanddepth,ratherthanwinesofupfrontnot-very-much.IfyoulikethatsortofSoave(andyoushould,youshould),thenIstrianMalvaziaisano-brainer.FromCroatia,ithasquitedeepcolour,honeysucklearomas,quitelowacidityandpowerfulminerality.Agoodonehasnothingobviousaboutit,but

you’llreturntotheglassagainandagain.

IfyoulikewhiteRhône,trywhiteBairradaBywhiteRhôneImeanRoussanneandMarsannewines,eithertogetherorseparately,fromplaceslikeHermitageandSt-Josephor,lessexpensivelyandsometimeslessinterestingly,fromthebroadspreadofthesouthernRhône.Withflavoursofpears,nuts,herbs,honeyandchamomileteait’snottheflashiestofwhitewines,northemostacidic;andithasalotincommonwiththenutty,herbal,honeyedflavoursofwhiteBairrada,fromPortugal.WhiteBairradaisprobablylessaromatic,butithassubstancewhichwillbeentirelyfamiliar.

Ifyoulikeredburgundy,rediscoverBeaujolaisBeaujolaisisnotthewineitusedtobe.Yes,Nouveaubecameabitofajoke,butnobody’smakingyoudrinkitifyoudon’twantto.Youknowthatprecisionofgoodburgundy–thatwonderfultense

balanceofaromaandstructure,depthandlightness?Beaujolaishasit,too.Thelastfewyearshaveseenanewgenerationmaketheirmarkontheregion,producingwinesthatreflecttheirindividualterroirsjustasmuchasgoodburgundiesdo.Choosefromthetencruvillages,goforgoodgrowers,paymorethanyoumightexpecttoforBeaujolais,butlessthanyouwouldexpecttoforburgundy,andenjoythefruitsofseveralverygoodvintages.Burgundyissupposedtoreflectitsterroir,nottastejustofPinot;goodBeaujolaisshouldn’tjusttasteofGamay,either.

IfyoulikeBarossaShiraz,tryAmaroneBarossaShirazhasbecomeabitofastatement;butifyoulayasidethemachismo,whatyou’releftwithisrich,blackoliveandsoyfruit,acertainearthiness,thewild,herbal,garrigueflavoursofSyrahtranslatedtosomewherehotter,andgoodaciditytoholditalltogether.Amarone,thedried-grapewineofValpolicella,doesn’thaveanyofthoseflavours.Ittastesofbakedcherrypieandsmells

ofit,too:whatithasincommonwithBarossaShirazisasweetsavourinessoffruit,alusciousnessoftannin,arichtexturethatcoatsthemouth,andprettyhighalcohol:mostare15%andmanyaremore.Anapéritifitisnot.Theidealwouldbetwobottles:onetostewsomebeefin,veryslowly,andtheothertodrinkwithit.

IfyoulikeRioja,tryWashingtonStateMerlotRiojaisprobablytheeasiesttoloveofanyredwine:strawberry-scented,vanilla-tinged,ripeandsupple,withallthearomaofTempranilloandtheearthinessofGarnacha.Itcomesinmanystyles,fromthemosttraditional,withitswhiffofoldfurniture,tothemodern,bright,glossyandinternational.WashingtonStateMerlotismadefromadifferentgrape,butMerlothasthesamesuppleness,thesamesweetripeness,thesamedrink-meappeal.Washingtonredsgenerallyhavegoodfreshnessandafirm,tannicstructurepluswell-integratedoak;andinbothregionsyoumightwanttobewareofoveroaked,overpricedtrophywines.

IfyoulikeTawnyPort,tryRivesaltesTawny,onemightargue,isthetruePort-lover’sPort:lessshowythanVintage,it’sawineofnuttycomplexityinwhichthesweetnessissubsumedintoasavouryrichnesswithadryedge:thinkwalnuttartratherthanChristmascake.RivesaltesisfortifiedGrenachefromtheMidi,justnorthofPerpignan.AlongwithTawnyPort,it’soneofthewinesyoucandrinkwithchocolate,thoughit’sbrilliantwithcheese(tryComté)aswell.Youngwinesarejuicy;oldonesgainapungentranciotang.MaisonCazeshasreleasedafewwinesgoingbacktothe1940sand1930s;trythemifyoucan.

Grapevarieties

Inthepasttwodecadesaradicalchangehascomeaboutinallexceptthemostlong-establishedwinecountries:thenamesofahandfulofgrapevarietieshavebecometheready-referencetowine.Inseniorwinecountries,aboveallFranceandItaly,morecomplextraditionsprevail.Allwineofoldprestigeisknownbyitsorigin,moreorlessnarrowlydefined–notjustbytheparticularfruitjuicethatfermented.Forthepresentthetwonotionsareinrivalry.Eventuallytheprimacyofplaceoverfruitwillbecomeobvious,atleastforwinesofquality.Butfornow,formostpeople,grapetastesaretheeasyreferencepoint–despitethefactthattheyareoftenconfusedbytheaddedtasteofoak.Ifgrapeflavourswerereallyallthatmattered,thiswouldbeaveryshortbook.Butofcoursetheydomatter,andaknowledgeofthembothguidesyoutoflavoursyou

enjoyandhelpscomparisonsbetweenregions.HencetheoriginallyCalifornianterm“varietalwine”,meaning,inprinciple,madefromonegrapevariety.Atleastsevenvarieties–CabernetSauvignon,PinotNoir,Riesling,SauvignonBlanc,Chardonnay,GewurztraminerandMuscat–tasteandsmelldistinctandmemorableenoughtoforminternationalwinecategories.TotheseaddMerlot,Malbec,Syrah,Sémillon,CheninBlanc,PinotsBlancandGris,Sylvaner,Viognier,Nebbiolo,Sangiovese,Tempranillo.Thefollowingarethebestand/ormostpopularwinegrapes.

NOTE:allgrapesandsynonymslistedinthissectionarecross-referencedthrougheverysectioninthebook.

GrapesforredwineAghiorgitikoGreek;grapeofNemea,plantedalmost

everywhere.Versatile,delicious,fromsoftandcharmingtodenseandage-worthy.Amust-try.

AgiorghitikoSeeAGHIORGITIKO.AglianicoSouthernItalian.Dark,deepandfashionable.AragonezSeeTEMPRANILLO.AuxerroisSeeMALBEC,ifred.WhiteAuxerroishasitsown

entryinwhitegrapes.BăbeascăNeagrăTraditional“blackgrandmothergrape”of

Moldova;lightbodyandruby-redcolour.BabičDarkgrapefromDalmatia,growninstonyseasidev’yds

roundSibenik.Exceptionalqualitypotential.

BagaPortugal.Bairradagrape.Darkandtannic.Greatpotentialbuthardtogrow.

BarberaWidelygrowninItaly,atitsbestinPiedmont:highacidity,lowtannin,cherryfruit.Rangesfrombarriquedandserioustosemi-sweetandfrothy.FashionableinCaliforniaandAustralia;promisinginArgentina.

BlauburgerAustriancross:BLAUERPORTUGIESERandBLAUFRÄNKISCH.Simplewines.

BlauburgunderSeePINOTN.BlauerPortugieserCentralEuropean,espGermany

(Rheinhessen,Pfalz,mostlyforrosé),Austria,Hungary.Light,fruityredstodrinkslightlychilledwhenyoung.Notforlayingdown.

BlauerZweigeltSeeZWEIGELT.Blaufränkisch(Kékfrankos,Lemberger,ModraFrankinja)

OriginallyHungarian;nowbiginAustria,widelyplantedin

Mittelburgenland:medium-bodied,pepperyacidity,acharacteristicsaltynote,berryaromasandeucalyptus.OftenblendedwithCABSAUVorZWEIGELT.LembergerinGermany(specialityofWürttemberg),KékfrankosinHungary,ModraFrankinjainSlovenia.

BoğazkereTannicandTurkish.Producesfull-bodiedwines.BonardaSeveraldifferentgrapessailunderthisflag.InItaly’s

OltrepòPavese,analiasforCroatina:soft,freshfrizzanteandstillred;Piedmont’sBonardaisdifferent.BonardainLombardyandEmilia-RomagnaisanaliasforUvaRara.Argentina’sBonardacanbeanyofthese,orsomethingelse.

BouchetSeeCABFR.BrunelloAliasforSANGIOVESE,splendidatMontalcino.CabernetFranc[CabFr]ThelesseroftwosortsofCabgrown

inBordeauxbutdominantinSt-Émilion.OutperformsCABSAUVintheLoire(Chinon,Saumur-Champigny,rosé),in

Hungary(depthandcomplexityinVillányandSzekszárd)andofteninItaly.MuchofnortheastItaly’sCabFrturnedouttobeCARMENÈRE.UsedinBordeauxblendsofCabSauv/MERLOTacrosstheworld.

CabernetSauvignon[CabSauv]Grapeofgreatcharacter:spicy,herby,tannic,withcharacteristicblackcurrantaroma.MaingrapeoftheMédoc;alsomakessomeofthebestCalifornia,SouthAmerican,EastEuropeanreds.VieswithShirazinAustralia.Grownalmosteverywhere,andledvinousrenaissanceineg.Italy.Topwinesneedageing;usuallybenefitsfromblendingwitheg.MERLOT,CABFR,SYRAH,TEMPRANILLO,SANGIOVESE,etc.Makesaromaticrosé.

CannonauGRENACHEinitsSardinianmanifestation;canbev.fine,potent.

Carignan(Carignano,Cariñena)Low-yieldingoldvinesnowv.fashionableeverywherefromsouthofFrancetoChile;

best:Corbières.Lotsofdepthandvibrancy.OvercroppedCarignaniswine-lakefodder.CommoninNorthAfrica,Spain(asCariñena)andCalifornia.

CarignanoSeeCARIGNAN.CarineñaSeeCARIGNAN.CarmenèreAnoldBordeauxvarietythatisnowastar,richand

deep,inChile(whereit’spronouncedcarmeneary).Bordeauxislookingatitagain.

CastelãoSeePERIQUITA.CencibelSeeTEMPRANILLO.ChiavennascaSeeNEBBIOLO.Cinsault(Cinsaut)AstapleofsouthernFrance.V.gdiflow-

yielding;wine-lakestuffifnot.Makesgdrosé.OneoftheparentsofPINOTAGE.

CornalinduValaisSwissspeciality,espinValais.

CorvinaDarkandspicy;oneofthebestgrapesintheValpolicellablend.Corvinone,evendarker,isaseparatevariety.

CôtSeeMALBEC.DolcettoSourceofsoft,seductivedryredinPiedmont.Now

highfashion.DornfelderDeliciouslylightreds,straightforward,oftenrustic,

andwell-coloured,inGermany,partsoftheUSA,England.Germanplantingsdoubledsince2000.

FerServadouExclusivetoSouthwestFrance,particularlyimportantinMarcillac,GaillacandSt-Mont.Redolentofsoftfruitsandspice.

FeteascăNeagrăRomania:“blackmaidengrape”withpotentialasshowpiecevarietyandbeingmorewidelyplanted.Needscareandlowyieldsinv’yd,butcangivedeep,full-bodiedwineswithcharacter.

FrühburgunderAnancientmutationofPINOTN,foundmostlyinGermany’sAhrbutalsoinFrankenandWürttemberg,whereitisconfusinglyknownasClevner.LoweracidityandthusmoreapproachablethanPinotN.

GamayTheBeaujolaisgrape:light,v.fragrantwines,attheirbestyoung,exceptinBeaujolaiscrus(seeFrance)wherequalitycanbesuperb,winesfor2–10yrs.MakesevenlighterwineintheLoireValley,incentralFrance,inSwitzerlandandSavoie.“NapaGamay”inCalifornia.

GamzaSeeKADARKA.Garnacha(Cannonau,Garnatxa,Grenache)Becomingultra-

fashionablewithterroiristes,whoadmirethewayitexpressesitssite.AlsogdforroséandVinDouxNaturel(espinsouthernFrance,Spain,California)butalsomainstayofbeefyPriorat.Old-vineversionsareprizedinSouthAustralia.Usuallyblendedwithothervarieties.Cannonauin

Sardinia,GrenacheinFrance.GarnatxaSeeGARNACHA.GracianoSpanish;partofRiojablend.Aromaofviolets;

tannic,leanstructurereminiscentofPETITVERDOT.Difficulttogrowbutfashionable,plantedmorenow.

GrenacheSeeGARNACHA.GrignolinoItaly:gdeverydaytablewineinPiedmont.Kadarka(Gamza)Spicy,lightredsinEastEurope.InHungary

revivedforBikavér.KékfrankosHungarianBLAUFRÄNKISCH.LagreinNorthernItalian,deepcolour,bitterfinish,rich,

plummyfruit.DOCinAltoAdige(seeItaly).LambruscoProductivegrapeofthelowerPoValley.

QuintessentiallyItalian,cheerful,sweetandfizzyred.LefkadaRediscoveredCypriotvariety,higherqualitythan

Mavro.Usuallyblendedbecausetanninscanbeaggressive.LembergerSeeBLAUFRÄNKISCH.Malbec(Auxerrois,Côt)MinorinBordeaux,majorinCahors

(aliasAuxerrois)andthestarinArgentina.Dark,dense,tannicbutfleshywinecapableofrealquality.High-altitudeversionsinArgentinaarethebee’sknees.

MaratheftikoDeep-colouredCypriotgrapewithqualitypotential.Trickytogrowwellbutgettingbetteraswinemakerslearntomanageit.

MataroSeeMOURVÈDRE.MavroThemost-plantedblackgrapeofCyprus.Easierto

cultivatethanMARATHEFTIKO,butonlymoderatequality.Bestforrosé.

MavrodaphneGreek;thenamemeans“blacklaurel”.Usedforsweetfortifieds;specialityofPatras,butalsofoundinCephalonia.Dryversionsontheincreaseandshowgreat

promise.MavrotraganoGreek,almostextinct;nowrevived;foundon

Santorini.Topquality.MavrudProbablyBulgaria’sbest.Spicy,dark,plummylate-

ripenernativetoThrace.Ageswell.MelnikBulgariangrapeoriginatingintheregionofthesame

name.Darkcolourandanicedense,tart-cherrycharacter.Ageswell.

MencíaMakingwavesinBierzo,Spain.Aromatic,withsteelytannins,andlotsofacidity.Excellentwithagdproducer.

MerlotThegrapebehindthegreatfragrantandplummywinesofPomeroland(withCABFR)St-Émilion.AnimportantelementinMédocreds:softandstrong(andàlamode)inCalifornia,Washington,Chile,Australia;lighterbutoftengdinnorthItaly(canbeworld-classinTuscany),ItalianSwitzerland,Slovenia,Argentina,SouthAfrica,New

Zealand(NZ),etc.Perhapstooadaptableforitsowngd:canbev.dull;lessthanripeittastesgreen.MuchplantedinEastEurope;Romania’smostplantedred.

ModraFrankinjaSeeBLAUFRÄNKISCH.ModriPinotSeePINOTN.MonastrellSeeMOURVÈDRE.MondeuseFoundinSavoie;deepcolour,gdacidity.Couldbe

sameasItaly’sREFOSCO.MontepulcianoDeep-colouredgrapedominantinItaly’s

AbruzzoandimportantalongAdriaticcoastfromtheMarchestosouthernApulia.AlsonameofafamousTuscantown,unrelated.

MorellinoAliasforSANGIOVESEinScansano,southernTuscany.Mourvèdre(Mataro,Monastrell)StarofsouthernFranceand

Australia(sometimesasMataro)and,asMonastrell,Spain.

Excellentdark,aromatic,tannicgrape,gdforblending.Enjoyingnewinterestineg.SouthAustraliaandCalifornia.

NapaGamaySeeGAMAY.Nebbiolo(Chiavennasca,Spanna)OneofItaly’sbestred

grapes;makesBarolo,Barbaresco,GattinaraandValtellina.Intense,noblyfruity,perfumedwinebutv.tannic:improvesforyrs.

NegroamaroApulian“blackbitter”redgrapewithpotentialforbothhighqualityorhighvolume.

NerelloMascaleseMedium-coloured,characterfulSicilianredgrapecapableofmakingwinesofconsiderableelegance.

Nerod’AvolaDark-redgrapeofSicily.Qualitylevelsfromsublimetoindustrial.

NielluccioCorsican;plentyofacidityandtannin.Gdforrosé.ÖküzgözüSoft,fruityTurkishgrape,usuallyblendedwith

BOĞAZKERE,ratherlikeMERLOTinBordeauxisblendedwithCABSAUV.

PamidBulgarian:light,soft,everydayred.Periquita(Castelão)PlantedthroughoutsouthPortugal,espin

PenínsuladeSetúbal.OriginallynicknamedPeriquitaafterFonseca’spopular(trademarked)brand.Firm-flavoured,raspberryishredsdevelopafiggish,tar-likequality.

PetiteSirahNothingtodowithSYRAH;rustic,tannic,darkwine.MaybeblendedwithZINinCalifornia;alsofoundinSouthAmerica,MexicoandAustralia.

PetitVerdotExcellentbutawkwardMédocgrape,nowincreasinglyplantedinCABareasworldwideforextrafragrance.Mostlyblendedbutsomegdvarietals,espinVirginia.

PinotageSingularSouthAfricangrape(PINOTNxCINSAULT).Hashadarockyride,butisemergingengaging,satisfying,

evenprofound,frombestproducers.Gdrosé,too.Fashionable“coffeePinotage”isespresso-toned,sweetishandaimedatyouthmarket.

PinotCrniSeePINOTN.PinotMeunier(Schwarzriesling)3rdgrapeofChampagne,

scornedbysome,usedbymost.Softer,earlierdrinkingthanPINOTN;usefulforblending.Foundinmanyplaces;vinifiedasawhiteforfizzoroccasionally(eg.Germany’sWürttemberg,asSchwarzriesling)asstillred.SamtrotislocalvariantinWürttemberg.

PinotNoir(Blauburgunder,ModriPinot,PinotCrni,Spätburgunder)[PinotN]ThegloryofBurgundy’sCôted’Or,withscent,flavourandtexturethatareunmatchedanywhere.RecentGermaneffortshavebeenexcellent.V.gd.inAustria,espinKamptal,Burgenland,Thermenregion.LightwinesinHungary;lighttoweightierinSwitzerland,

whereitisthemainredvarietyandalsoknownasClevner.SplendidresultsinCalifornia’sSonoma,CarnerosandCentralCoast,aswellasOregon,Ontario,YarraValley,AdelaideHills,Tasmania,NZ’sSouthIsland(CentralOtago)andSouthAfrica’sWalkerBay.Somev.prettyChileans.NewFrenchclonespromiseimprovementinRomania.ModriPinotinSlovenia;probablycountry’sbestred.InItaly,bestinnortheastandgetsworseasyougosouth.PINOTBLandPINOTGRaremutationsofPinotN.

PlavacMaliCroatian,andrelatedtoZIN,likesomuchroundthere.Lotsofqualitypotential,canagewell,thoughcanalsobealcoholicanddull.

PrimitivoSouthernItaliangrape,originallyfromCroatia,makingbig,dark,rusticwines,nowfashionablebecausegeneticallyidenticaltoZIN.Earlyripening,hencethename.

Refosco(Refošk)InnortheastItalypossiblyasynonymfor

MONDEUSEofSavoie.VariousDOCsinItaly,espColliOrientali.Deep,flavoursomeandage-worthywines,particularlyinwarmerclimates.Dark,highacidity.RefoškinSloveniaandpointseastisgeneticallydifferentbuttastessimilar.

RefoškSeeREFOSCO.RoterVeltlinerAustrian;theredversionofGRÜNERVELTLINER.

ThereisalsoaFrühroterandaBraunerVeltliner.RubinBulgariancross,NEBBIOLOxSYRAH.Peppery,full-

bodied.Gdinblends,butincreasinglyusedonitsown.SagrantinoItaliangrapefoundinUmbriaforpowerful,cherry-

flavouredwines.St-LaurentDark,smooth,full-flavouredAustrianspeciality.

Canbelightandjuicyordeepandstructured;fashionforoverextractionisover.AlsointhePfalz.

Sangiovese(Brunello,Morellino,Sangioveto)Principalred

grapeofwest-centralItalywithareputationofbeingdifficulttogetright,butsublimeandlong-lastingwhenitis.Researchhasproducedgreatimprovements.DominantinChianti,VinoNobile,BrunellodiMontalcino,MorellinodiScansanoandvariousfineIGTofferings.AlsoinUmbriagenerally(eg.MontefalcoandTorgiano)andacrosstheApenninesinRomagnaandtheMarches.Notsocleverinthewarmer,lower-altitudev’ydsoftheTuscancoast,orinotherpartsofItalydespiteitsnearubiquity.InterestinginAustralia.

SangiovetoSeeSANGIOVESE.SaperaviGd,balanced,v.long-livedwineinGeorgia,Ukraine,

etc.Blendsv.wellwithCABSAUV(eg.inMoldova).Hugepotential,seldomgdwinemaking.

SchiavaSeeTROLLINGER.SchwarzrieslingPINOTMEUNIERinWürttemberg.

SciacarelloCorsican,herbyandpeppery.Notv.tannic.ShirazSeeSYRAH.SpannaSeeNEBBIOLO.SpätburgunderGermanforPINOTN.Syrah(Shiraz)ThegreatRhôneredgrape:tannic,purpleand

pepperywinethatmaturessuperbly.ImportantasShirazinAustralia,increasinglygdundereithernameinChileandSouthAfrica,terrificinNZ(espHawke’sBay).Widelygrown.

TannatRaspberry-perfumed,highlytannicforcebehindMadiran,TursanandotherfirmredsfromSouthwestFrance.Alsorosé.NowthestarofUruguay.

Tempranillo(Aragonez,Cecibel,TintoFino,TintadelPaís,TintaRoríz,UlldeLlebre)Aromatic,fineRiojagrape,calledUlldeLlebreinCatalonia,CencibelinLaMancha,TintoFinoinRiberadelDuero,TintaRorízinDouro,Tinta

delPaísinCastile,AragonezinsouthernPortugal.NowAustralia,too.V.fashionable;elegantincoolclimates,beefyinwarm.Earlyripening,longmaturing.

TeranClosecousinofREFOSCO,samedarkcolour,highacidity,appetizing,esponlimestone(karst).Sloveniaandthereabouts.

TeroldegoRotalianoItalian:Trentino’sbestindigenousvarietymakesserious,full-flavouredwine,espontheflatCampoRotaliano.

TintaAmarelaSeeTRINCADEIRA.TintadelPaísSeeTEMPRANILLO.TintaNegraUntilrecentlycalledTintaNegraMole.Easily

Madeira’smostplantedgrapeandthemainstayofcheaperMadeira.NowcomingintoitsowninColheitawines(SeePort,Sherry&Madeira).

TintaRorízSeeTEMPRANILLO.

TintoFinoSeeTEMPRANILLO.TourigaNacionalTopPortgrapeintheDouroValley,now

widelyusedforfloral,stylishtablewines.SeenasPortugal’sbestred.AustralianTourigamightbethisoroneofseveralothers;California’sTourigaisusuallyTourigaFranca.

Trincadeira(TintaAmarela)Portugal;v.gd,spicyAlentejo.TintaAmarelainDouro.

Trollinger(Schiava,Vernatsch)PopularpaleredinGermany’sWürttemberg;identicalwithTyroleanVernatschandSchiava.InItaly,snappyandbrisk.

VernatschSeeTROLLINGER.XinomavroGreece’sanswertoNEBBIOLO.“Sharp-black”;the

basisforNaoussa,Rapsani,Goumenissa,Amindeo.Somerosé,stillorsparkling.Topqualitycanagefordecades.BeingtriedinChina.

Zinfandel[Zin]Fruity,adaptablegrapeofCaliforniawith

blackberry-like,andsometimesmetallic,flavour.Canbestructuredandgloriouslylush,ageingfordecades,butalsomakes“blush”pink,usuallysweet,jammy.GeneticallythesameassouthernItalianPRIMITIVOandCroatia’sCrljenak,whichisalmostextinct.

Zweigelt(BlauerZweigelt)BLAUFRÄNKISCHxST-LAURENT,itispopularinAustriaforaromatic,dark,supple,velvetywines.AlsofoundinHungaryandGermany.

GrapesforwhitewineAirénBlandworkhorseofLaMancha,Spain:freshifmade

well.Albariño(Alvarinho)FashionableandexpensiveinSpain:

apricot-scented,gdacidity.BestinRíasBaixas;shapingupelsewhere,butnotallliveuptohype.AlvarinhoinPortugaljustasgd:aromaticVinhoVerde,espinMonção,Melgaço.

AligotéBurgundy’ssecond-rankwhitegrape.Sharpwineforyoungdrinking,perfectformixingwithcassis(blackcurrantliqueur)tomakeKir.WidelyplantedinEastEurope,espRussia.

AlvarinhoALBARIÑOinPortugal.AmigneOneofSwitzerland’sspecialitygrapes,traditionalin

Valais,espVétroz.Totalplanted:43ha.Full-bodied,tasty,

oftensweetbutalsobone-dry.AnsonicaSeeINSOLIA.ArintoPortuguese;themainstayofaromatic,citrusywinesin

Bucelas;alsoaddswelcomeziptoblends,espinAlentejo.ArneisNWItalian.Fine,aromatic,appley-peachy,high-priced

grape,DOCGinRoero,DOCinLanghe,Piedmont.ArvineRareSwissspeciality,fromValais.AlsoPetiteArvine.

Dryandsweet,elegant,long-lastingwineswithasaltyfinish.

AssyrtikoGreek;oneofthebestgrapesoftheMediterranean,balancingpower,minerality,extractandhighacid.Builttoage.Couldconquertheworld…

AuxerroisRedAuxerroisisasynonymforMALBEC.WhiteAuxerroisislikeafatter,spicierversionofPINOTBL.FoundinAlsace,muchusedinCrémant;alsoGermany.

BeliPinotSeePINOTBL.BlancFuméSeeSAUVBL.BoalSeeBUAL.BourboulencThisandtherareRollemakesomeoftheMidi’s

bestwines.BouvierAromaticgrapeindigenoustoAustria.Espgdfor

BeerenausleseandTrockenbeerenauslese,rarelyfordrywines.

Bual(Boal)Makestop-qualitysweetMadeirawines,notquitesorichasMalmsey.

CarricanteItalian.PrincipalgrapeofEtnaBianco,regainingground.

CatarrattoProlificwhitegrapefoundalloverSicily,espinwestinDOCAlcamo.

CercealSeeSERCIAL.

Chardonnay(Morillon)[Chard]ThewhitegrapeofBurgundyandChampagne,nowubiquitousworldwide,partlybecauseitisoneoftheeasiesttogrowandvinify.AlsothenameofaMâcon-Villagescommune.Thefashionforoveroakedbutterscotchversionsnowthankfullyover.MorilloninStyria,Austria.

Chasselas(Fendant,Gutedel)Swiss(originatedinVaud).Neutralflavour,takesonlocalcharacter:elegant(Geneva);refined,full(Vaud);exotic,racy(Valais).FendantinValais.MakesalmostathirdofSwisswinesbutgivingway,esptored.GutedelinGermany,grownespinsouthernBaden.Elsewhereusuallyatablegrape.

CheninBlanc[CheninBl]WonderfulwhitegrapeofthemiddleLoire(Vouvray,Layon,etc).Winecanbedryorsweet(orv.sweet),butwithplentyofacidity.BulkwineinCalifornia.Takenv.seriously(aliasSteen)inSouthAfrica;

stillfindingitswaythere,buthugepotential.CirfandlSeeZIERFANDLER.ClairetteLow-acid;inmanysouthernFrenchblends.Improved

winemakinghelps.ColombardSlightlyfruity,nicelysharpgrape,makeseveryday

wineinSouthAfrica,CaliforniaandSouthwestFrance.Oftenblended.

DimiatBulgarian:perfumed,dryoroff-dry,ordistilled.Moresynonymsthanitneeds.

ErmitageSeeMARSANNE.EzerjóHungarian,withsharpacidity.Namemeans“thousand

blessings”.FalanghinaItalian:ancientgrapeofCampanianhills.Excellent

dense,aromaticdrywhites.FendantSeeCHASSELAS.

FernãoPiresSeeMARIAGOMES.FeteascăAlbă/Regală(Leányka/Királyleanyka)Romania

hastwoFeteascăgrapes,bothwithslightMUSCATaroma.F.RegalăisacrossofF.AlbăandGRAS;morefinesse,gdforlate-harvestwines.F.AlbăisLeánykainHungary;F.RegalăisHungary’sKirályleanyka.F.Neagrăisdark-skinned.

FianoHigh-qualitygrapegivingpeachy,spicywineinCampania,southernItaly.

FolleBlanche(GrosPlant,Picpoul)Highacid/littleflavourmakethisidealforbrandy.GrosPlant(Brittany),Picpoul(Armagnac).RespectableinCalifornia.

Friulano(Sauvignonasse,SauvignonVert)NorthItalian:fresh,pungent,subtlyfloral.UsedtobecalledTocaiFriulano.BestinCollio,Isonzo,ColliOrientali.FoundinnearbySloveniaasSauvignonasse;alsoinChile,whereit

waslongconfusedwithSAUVBL.Ex-TocaiinVenetonowknownasTai.

FuméBlancSeeSAUVBL.Furmint(Šipon)Superb,characterful.Thetrademarkof

Hungary,bothastheprincipalgrapeinTokajiandasvivid,vigoroustablewine,sometimesmineral,sometimesapricot-flavoured,sometimesboth.ŠiponinSlovenia.SomegrowninRust,Austria,forsweetanddry.

GarganegaBestgrapeinSoaveblend;alsoinGambellara.Top,espsweet,agewell.

GarnachaBlanca(GrenacheBlanc)WhiteversionofGARNACHA/GRENACHE,muchusedinSpain,southernFrance.Lowacidity.Canbeinnocuous,orsurprisinglygd.

Gewurztraminer(Traminac,Traminec,Traminer,Tramini)[Gewurz]Oneofthemostpungentgrapes,spicywitharomasofrosepetals,face-cream,lychees,grapefruit.Wines

areoftenrichandsoft,evenwhenfullydry.BestinAlsace;alsogdinGermany(Baden,Pfalz,Sachsen),EasternEurope,Australia,California,PacificNorthwestandNZ.CanberelativelyunaromaticifjustlabelledTraminer(orvariants).ItalyusesthenameTraminerAromaticoforits(dry)versions.ThenamecomesfromGermanGewürz(“spice”),andkeepstheumlautinGerman.

GleraUncharismaticnewnamefortheProseccovine.Proseccoisnowonlyawine,nolongeragrape.

GodelloSeeVERDELHO.Grasă(Kövérszölö)Romanian;namemeans“fat”.Proneto

botrytis;v.importantinCotnari:potentiallysuperbsweetwines.KövérszölöinHungary’sTokajregion.

GraševinaSeeWELSCHRIESLING.GrauburgunderSeePINOTGR.GrechettoAncientgrapeofcentralandsouthItalynotedforthe

vitalityandstylishnessofitswine.Blended,orusedsoloinOrvieto.

GrecoSouthernItalian:therearevariousGrecos,probablyunrelated,perhapsofGreekorigin.Brisk,peachyflavour,mostfamousasGrecodiTufo.GrecodiBiancoisfromsemi-driedgrapes.GrecoNeroisablackversion.

GrenacheBlancSeeGARNACHABLANCA.GrignolinoItaly:gdeverydaytablewineinPiedmont.GrosPlantSeeFOLLEBLANCHE.GrünerVeltlinerAustria’sflagshipwhitegrape.Remarkably

diverse:fromsimple,pepperyeverydaywinestoothersofgreatcomplexityandageingpotential.FoundelsewhereinCentralEuropetosomeextent,andnowshowingpotentialinNZ.Theheightoffashion.

GutedelSeeCHASSELAS.

HárslevelűOthermaingrapeofTokaji,butsofter,peachierthanFURMINT.Namemeans“linden-leaved”.GdinSomló,Egeraswell.

HeidaSeeSAVAGNIN.HumagneSwissspeciality,olderthanCHASSELAS.Fresh,plump,

notv.aromatic.HumagneRouge(HR),alsocommoninValais,isnotrelatedbutincreasinglypopular.HRisthesameasCornalinduAosta;CornalinduValaisisdifferent.(Keepupattheback,there.)

Insolia(Ansonica,Inzolia)Sicilian;AnsonicaonTuscancoast.Fresh,racywineatbest.Maybesemi-driedforsweetwine.

IrsaiOlivérHungariancrossoftwotablevarieties.Makesaromatic,MUSCAT-likewinefordrinkingyoung.

JohannisbergSeeSILVANER.KéknyelűLow-yielding,flavourfulgrapegivingoneof

Hungary’sbestwhites.Hasthepotentialforfierinessand

spice.Tobewatched.KernerQuitesuccessfulGermancrossing.Earlyripening,

flowery(butoftentooblatant)winewithgdacidity.KirályleánykaAkaFETEASCĂREGALĂ.KövérszölöSeeGRASĂ.LaskiRizlingSeeWELSCHRIESLING.Leányka“Littlegirl”.SeeFETEASCĂALBĂ.ListánSeePALOMINO.LoureiroBestVinhoVerdevarietyafterALVARINHO:delicate,

floralwhites.AlsoinSpain.MacabeoSeeVIURA.MalagousiaRediscoveredGreekgrapeforgloriouslyperfumed

wines.MalmseySeeMALVASIA.ThesweeteststyleofMadeira,from

grapeofsamename.

Malvasia(Malmsey,Malvazija)ItalyandIberia.AnancientGreekgrapeplantedsowidelyforsolongthatvarioussub-varietiesoftenbearlittleresemblancetooneanother–canbewhiteorred,sparklingorstill,strongormild,sweetordry,aromaticorneutral.Slovenia’sandCroatia’sversionisMalvazijaIstarka,crispandlight,orrich,oak-aged.“Malmsey”(asinthesweeteststyleofMadeira)isacorruptionofMalvasia.

MalvoisieNotrelatedtoMALVASIA.CoversseveralvarietiesinFrance,inclPINOTGR,MACABEO,BOURBOULENC,CLAIRETTE,Torbato,VERMENTINO.PinotGrinSwitzerland.

Manseng,Gros/PetitGloriouslyspicyandfloralwhitesfromSouthwestFrance.ThekeytoJurançon.Superblate-harvestandsweetwines,too.

MariaGomes(FernãoPires)Portugal:aromatic,ripe-flavoured,slightlyspicywhitesinBarraidaandTejo.

Marsanne(Ermitage)Principalwhitegrape(withROUSSANNE)ofthenorthernRhône(Hermitage,St-Joseph,St-Péray).AlsogdinAustralia,Californiaand(asErmitageBlanc)theValais.Soft,fullwinesthatagev.well.

MelondeBourgogneSeeMUSCADET.MisketBulgarian:mildlyaromatic;thebasisofmostcountry

whites.MorillonCHARDinpartsofAustria.MoscatelSeeMUSCAT.MoscatoSeeMUSCAT.MoschofileroPink-skinned,rose-scented,high-quality,high-

acid,low-alcoholGreekgrape.Makeswhite,somepink,somesparkling.

Müller-Thurgau[Müller-T]Aromaticwinestodrinkyoung.Gdsweetwinesbutusuallydull,oftencoarse,dryones.In

Germany,mostcommoninPfalz,Rheinhessen,Nahe,Baden,Franken.HassomemeritinItaly’sTrentino-AltoAdigeandFriuli.SometimescalledRIESxSYLVANER(incorrectly)inSwitzerland.

MuscadelleAddsaromatowhiteBordeaux,espSauternes.InVictoriaused(withMUSCAT,towhichitisunrelated)forRutherglenMuscat.

Muscadet(MelondeBourgogne)Makeslight,refreshing,v.drywineswithaseasidetangaroundNantesinBrittany.Alsofound(asMelon)inpartsofBurgundy.

Muscat(Moscatel,Moscato,Muskateller)Manyvarieties;thebestisMuscatBlancàPetitsGrains(aliasGelberMuskateller,RumeniMuškat,SargaMuskotály,YellowMuscat).Widelygrown,easilyrecognized,pungentgrapes,mostlymadeintoperfumedsweetwines,oftenfortified,asinFrance’sVinDouxNaturel.Superb,darkandsweetin

Australia.Sweet,sometimesv.gdinSpain.MostHungarianMuskotályisMuscatOttonel,exceptinTokajwhereSargaMuskotályrules,addingperfume(insmallamounts)toblends.Occasionally(eg.Alsace,Austria,partsofsouthGermany)madedry.SweetCapCorseMuscatsoftensuperb.LightMoscatofizzinItaly.

MuskatellerSeeMUSCAT.NarinceTurkish;freshandfruitywines.NeuburgerAustrian,ratherneglected;mainlyintheWachau

(elegant,flowery),Thermenregion(mellow,ample-bodied)andnorthBurgenland(strong,full).

OlaszrizlingSeeWELSCHRIESLING.PaïenSeeSAVAGNIN.Palomino(Listán)ThegreatgrapeofSherry;withlittle

intrinsiccharacter,itgainsallfromproductionmethod.Oflocalappeal(onahotday)fortablewine.AsListán,makes

drywhiteinCanaries.PansàBlancaSeeXAREL-LO.PecorinoItalian:notacheesebutalluringdrywhitefroma

recentlynr-extinctvariety.IGTinColliPescaresi.PedroXiménez[PX]MakessweetSherryunderitsownname;

inMontilla,Málaga.AlsogrowninArgentina,theCanaries,Australia,California,SouthAfrica.

PinelaLocaltoSlovenia.Subtle,lowishacidity;drinkyoung.PinotBiancoSeePINOTBL.PinotBlanc(BeliPinot,PinotBianco,Weissburgunder)

[PinotBl]CousinofPINOTN,similartobutmilderthanCHARD.Light,fresh,fruity,notaromatic,todrinkyoung.GdforItalianspumante;potentiallyexcellentinnortheast,esphighsitesinAltoAdige.Widelygrown.WeissburgunderinGermanyandbestinsouth:oftenracierthanChard.

PinotGris(PinotGrigio,Grauburgunder,Ruländer,SiviPinot,Szürkebarát)[PinotGr]LightandfashionableasPinotGrigioinnorthernItaly,evenforrosé,buttop,characterfulversionscanbeexcellent(fromAltoAdige,Friuli).Cheapversionsarejustthat.TerrificinAlsaceforfull-bodied,spicywhites.OnceimportantinChampagne.InGermanycanbealiasRuländer(sweet)orGrauburgunder(dry):bestinBaden(espKaiserstuhl)andsouthPfalz.SzürkebarátinHungary,SiviPinotinSlovenia(characterful,aromatic).

PošipCroatia:mostlyonKorčula.Quitecharacterfulandcitrusy;highyielding.

ProseccoSeeGLERA.RenskiRizlingSeeRIES.RibollaGialla/RebulaAcidicbutcharacterful.InItaly,bestin

Collio.InSlovenia,traditionalinBrda.V.highquality

potentialinmaceratedandclassicalstyles.RieslanerGermancross(SILVANERxRIES);lowyields,difficult

ripening,nowararity(lessthan50ha).MakesfineAusleseninFrankenandPfalz.

RieslingItalicoSeeWELSCHRIESLING.Riesling(RenskiRizling,RhineRiesling)[Ries]Asgdas

CHARD,ifnotbetter,thoughdiametricallyoppositeinstyle.Offersarangefromsteelytovoluptuous,alwayspositivelyperfumed,withmoreageingpotentialthanChard.GreatinallstylesinGermany;forcefulandsteelyinAustria;lime-cordialandtoastfruitinSouthAustralia;richandspicyinAlsace;GermanicandpromisinginNZ,NewYorkState,PacificNorthwest;haspotentialinOntario,SouthAfrica.

RkatsiteliFoundwidelyinEasternEurope,Russia,Georgia.Canstandcoldwintersandhashighacidity,whichprotectsittosomedegreefrompoorwinemaking.Alsogrownin

northeastStates.RobolaInGreece(Cephalonia):top-quality,floralgrape,

unrelatedtoRIBOLLAGIALLA.RoditisPinkgrapegrownalloverGreece,usuallyproducing

whitewines.Gdwhenyieldsarelow.RotgipflerAustrian;indigenoustoThermenregion.With

ZIERFANDLER,makeslively,lush,aromaticblend.RoussanneRhônegrapeoffinesse,nowpoppingupin

CaliforniaandAustralia.Canagemanyyrs.RuländerSeePINOTGR.SauvignonasseSeeFRIULANO.SauvignonBlanc[SauvBl]Makesdistinctivearomatic,grassy-

to-tropicalwines,pungentinNZ,oftenminerallyinSancerre,riperinAustralia.V.gdinRueda,Austria,northItaly(Isonzo,Piedmont,AltoAdige),Chile’sCasablanca

ValleyandSouthAfrica.BlendedwithSÉMinBordeaux.Canbeaustereorbuxom(orindeed,nauseating).SauvignonGrisisapink-skinned,lessaromaticversionofSauvBlwithuntappedpotential.

SauvignonVertSeeFRIULANO.Savagnin(Heida,Païen)GrapeofVinJaunefromSavoie:

relatedtoGEWURZ?InSwitzerlandknownasHeida,PaïenorTraminer.Full-bodied,highacidity.

ScheurebeGrapefruit-scentedGermanRIESxSILVANER(possibly),v.successfulinPfalz,espforAusleseandupwards.Canbeweedy:mustbev.ripetobegd.

Sémillon[Sém]ContributesthelusciousnesstoSauternesbutdecreasinglyimportantforGravesandotherdrywhiteBordeaux.Grassyifnotfullyripe,butcanmakesoft,drywineofgreatageingpotential.SuperbinAustralia;NZandSouthAfricapromising.

Sercial(Cerceal)Portugal:makesthedriestMadeira.Cerceal,alsoPortuguese,seemstobethisplusanyofseveralothers.

SeyvalBlanc[SeyvalBl]French-madehybridofFrenchandAmericanvines.V.hardyandattractivelyfruity.PopularandreasonablysuccessfulineasternUSstatesandEnglandbutdogmaticallybannedbyEUfrom“quality”wines.

Silvaner(Johannisberg,Sylvaner)Germany’sformerworkhorsegrape,canbeexcellentinRheinhessen,Pfalz,espFranken,whereitsplant/earthflavoursandmineralnotesreachtheirapogee.V.gd(andpowerful)asJohannisbergintheValais,Switzerland.ThelightestoftheAlsacegrapes.

SiponSeeFURMINT.SpätrotSeeZIERFANDLER.SylvanerSeeSILVANER.TămâioasăRomâneascăRomania:“frankincense”grape,with

exoticaromaandtaste.BelongstoMUSCATfamily.

TorrontésNamegiventoanumberofgrapes,mostlywithanaromatic,floralcharacter,sometimessoapy.AspecialityofArgentina;alsoinSpain.DYA.

Traminac/Traminec.SeeGEWURZ.Traminer/TraminiHungary.SeeGEWURZ.Trebbiano(UgniBlanc)PrincipalwhitegrapeofTuscany,

foundalloverItalyindifferentguises.RarelyrisesaboveplebeianexceptinTuscany’sVinSanto.SomegddryDOCsRomagnaorAbruzzo.TrebbianodiSoaveordiLugana,akaVERDICCHIO,onlydistantlyrelated.GrowninsouthernFranceasUgniBlanc,CognacasSt-Émilion.Mostlythin,bland;needsblending(andcarefulgrowing).

UgniBlanc[UgniBl]SeeTREBBIANO.UlldeLlebreSeeTEMPRANILLO.VerdejoThegrapeofRuedainCastile,potentiallyfineand

long-lived.

Verdelho(Godello)GreatqualityinAustralia,andinSpainasGodello–probablySpain’sbestwhitegrape.Rarebutgd(andmedium-sweet)inMadeira.

VerdicchioPotentiallygd,musculardrywineincentral-easternItaly.Makesthewineofthesamename.

VermentinoItaly:sprightly,satisfyingtextureandageingcapacity.Potentialhere.

VernacciaNamegiventomanyunrelatedgrapesinItaly.VernacciadiSanGimignanoiscrisp,lively;VernacciadiOristanoisSherry-like.

VidalFrenchhybridmuchgrowninCanadaforIcewine.ViognierUltra-fashionableRhônegrape,finestinCondrieu,

lessfinebutstillaromaticinMidi.GdexamplesfromCalifornia,Virginia,Uruguay,Australia.

Viura(Macabeo,Maccabéo,Maccabeu)WorkhorsewhitegrapeofnorthernSpain,widespreadinRioja,Catalunya.

AlsoinSouthwestFrance.Gdqualitypotential.WeissburgunderPINOTBLinGermany.Welschriesling(Graševina,LaskiRizling,Olaszrizling,

RieslingItalico)NotrelatedtoRIES.LightandfreshtosweetandrichinAustria;ubiquitousinCentralEurope,whereitcanberemarkablygdfordryandsweetwines.

Xarel-lo(PansàBlanca)TraditionalCatalangrapeforCava,withParellada,MACABEO.Neutralbutclean.Morecharacter(limecordial)inAlella,asPansàBlanca.

XynisteriCyprus’smostplantedwhitegrape.CanbesimpleandisusuallyDYA,butwhengrownataltitudemakesappealing,minerallywhites.

ZétaHungarian;BOUVIERxFURMINTusedbysomeinTokajiAszúproduction.

Zierfandler(Spätrot,Cirfandl)FoundinAustria’sThermenregion;oftenblendedwithROTGIPFLERforaromatic,

orange-peel-scented,weightywines.

Wine&food

Foodthesedaysisbecomingalmostascomplicatedaswine.WetakeJapaneseforgranted,Chineseasstaple,looktoItalianforcomfortandthenstirthepotwiththisstrangethingcalled“fusionrules”.Don’ttrytobetooclever;wineyoulikewithfoodyoulikeissafest.AndRieslingisthesafestgrape.

Beforethemeal–apéritifsTheconventionalapéritifwinesareeithersparkling(epitomizedbyChampagne)orfortified(epitomizedbySherryinBritain,PortinFrance,vermouthinItaly,etc.).Aglassoftablewinebeforeeatingisanalternative.WarningAvoidpeanuts–theydestroywineflavours.Olivesaretoopiquantformanywines,especiallyChampagne;theyneedSherryoraMartini.Eatalmonds,pistachios,cashews,orwalnuts,plaincrispsorcheesestrawsinstead.

FirstcoursesAïoliAthirst-quencherisneededforitsgarlicheat.Rhône,

sparklingdrywhite;Provencerosé,Verdicchio.Andmarcorgrappa,too,forcourage.

AntipastiDryormediumwhite:Italian(Arneis,Soave,PinotGrigio,Prosecco,Vermentino);lightbutgutsyred(Valpolicella,straightorripasso,canhandlemostthings).

ArtichokevinaigretteAnincisivedrywhite:NZSauvBl;CôtesdeGascogneoramodernGreek;youngred:Bordeaux,CôtesduRhône.withhollandaiseFull-bodied,slightlycrispdrywhite:Pouilly-Fuissé,PfalzSpätlese,oraCarnerosorYarraValleyChard.

AsparagusAdifficultflavourforwine,beingslightlybitter,so

thewineneedsplentyofitsown.RheingauRiesgoeswell.SauvBlechoestheflavour.SémbeatsChard,espAustralian,butChardworkswellwithmeltedbutterorhollandaise.AlsacePinotGr,evendryMuscatisgd,orJurançonSec.

Auberginepurée(melitzanosalata)CrispNewWorldSauvBl,eg.fromSouthAfricaorNZ;ormodernGreekorSiciliandrywhite.Bakedauberginedishescanneedsturdierreds:Shiraz,Zin.OrtryaTurkishredliketheImam.

AvocadoandtigerprawnsDrytomediumorslightlysharpwhite:RheingauorPfalzKabinett,GrünerVeltliner,WachauRies,Sancerre,PinotGr;SonomaorAustralianChardorSauvBl,oradryrosé.OrpremiercruChablis.withmozzarellaandtomatoCrispbutripewhitewithacidity:Soave,Sancerre,Greekwhite.

Carpaccio,beefSeemstoworkwellwithmostwines,inclreds.

TopTuscanisappropriate,butfineChardsaregd.SoarevintageandpinkChampagnes.salmonChardorChampagne.tunaViognier,CaliforniaChardorNZSauvBl.

CaviarIcedvodka.Full-bodiedChampagne(eg.Bollinger,Krug).CuvéeAnnamariaClementifromCa’delBosco.

CevicheAustralianRiesorVerdelho,ChileanSauvBl.Charcuterie/salamiYoungBeaujolais-Villages,Loirereds(ie.

Saumur),orNZorOregonPinotN.LambruscooryoungZin.YoungArgentineorItalianreds.BordeauxBlancandlightChardlikeCôteChalonnaisecanworkwell,too.

ChorizoFino,AustrianRies,GrünerVeltliner,butnotawine-friendlytaste.

CrostiniDryItalianwhitesuchasVerdicchioorOrvieto.Orstandard-grade(notRiserva)MorellinodiScansano,Montepulcianod’Abruzzo,Valpolicella.

CruditésLightredorrosé:CôtesduRhône,Minervois,Chianti,PinotN;orFinoSherry.Forwhites:AlsaceSylvanerorPinotBl.

DimsumClassically,Chinatea.Forfun:PinotGrorRies;lightPinotN.Forreds,soft,evolvedtanninsarekey,andthemorematureandcomplexthewinethebetteritwillgo.Bardolino,Rioja,orlightSouthernRhônearealsocontenders.PlusNVChampagneorgdNewWorldfizz.

EggsSeealsoSOUFFLÉS.Thesepresentdifficulties;theyclashwithmostwinesandcanruingoodones.Butlocalwinewithlocaleggdishesisasafebet,so★→★★ofwhateverisgoing.TryPinotBlornot-too-oakyChard.AsalastresortIcanbringmyselftodrinkChampagnewithscrambledeggs.quailseggsBlancdeblancsChampagne.seagull(orgull)eggsMaturewhiteburgundyorvintageChampagne.

oeufsenmeuretteBurgundiangenius:eggsinredwinewithglassofthesame.

EscargotsAcomfortdishcallingforRhônereds(Gigondas,Vacqueyras).St-VéranorAligoté,inBurgundy,.IntheMidi,v.gdPetits-Gris(“littlegreysnails”)gowithlocalwhite,roséorred.InAlsace,PinotBlordryMuscat.

FishterrineorfishsaladPfalzRiesSpätleseTrocken,GrünerVeltliner,premiercruChablis,ClareValleyRies,SonomaChard,orManzanilla.

FoiegrasSweetwhite.InBordeauxtheydrinkSauternes.Otherspreferalate-harvestPinotGrorRies(inclNewWorld),Vouvray,Montlouis,Jurançonmoelleux,orGewurz.TokajiAszú5puttonyosisaLucullanchoice.Old,dryAmontilladocanbesublime.Withhotfoiegras,maturevintageChampagne.ButnotonanyaccountChardorSauvBl.Orred.

Goatscheese,warmSancerre,Pouilly-Fumé,orNewWorldSauvBl.chilledChinon,Saumur-Champigny,orProvencerosé.Orstrongred:ChâteauMusar,Greek,Turkish,AustraliansparklingShiraz.

GuacamoleMexicanbeer.OrCaliforniaChard,SauvBl,dryMuscat,orevennon-vintageChampagne.

Haddock,smoked,mousse,souffléorbrandadeWonderfulforshowingoffanystylish,full-bodiedwhite,inclgrandcruChablisorSonoma,SouthAfricanorNZChard.

Ham,raworcuredSeealsoPROSCIUTTO.AlsaceGrandCruPinotGrorgd,crispItalianColliowhite.WithSpanishpatanegraorjamón,FinoSherryorTawnyPort.SeealsoHAM,COOKED(Meat,poultry,game).

Herrings,raworpickledDutchgin(young,notaged)orScandinavianakvavit,andcoldbeer.Ifwineessential,try

Muscadet.Mackerel,smokedAnoilywine-destroyer.ManzanillaSherry,

properdryVinhoVerdeorschnapps,pepperedorbison-grassvodka.Orgdlager.

MayonnaiseAddsrichnessthatcallsforacontrastingbiteinthewine.CôteChalonnaisewhites(eg.Rully)aregd.TryNZSauvBl,VerdicchiooraSpätleseTrocken.OrProvencerosé.

MezzeAselectionofhotandcoldvegetabledishes.FinoSherryisinitselement.

Mozzarellawithtomatoes,basilFreshItalianwhite,eg.Soave,AltoAdige.Vermintinofromthecoast.OrsimpleBordeauxBlanc.SeealsoAVOCADO.

Oysters,rawNon-vintageChampagne,premiercruChablis,Muscadet,whiteGraves,Sancerre,orGuinness.Somelikecold,lightSauternes.

cookedPuligny-Montrachet,gdNewWorldChard.Champagnegdwitheither.

PastaRedorwhiteaccordingtothesauceortrimmings:creamsauce(eg.carbonara)Orvieto,Frascati,AltoAdigeChard.meatsauceMontepulcianod’Abruzzo,SaliceSalentino,Merlot.pesto(basil)Barbera,LigurianVermentino,NZSauvBl,HungarianFurmint.seafoodsauce(eg.vongole)Verdicchio,Soave,whiteRioja,Cirò,SauvBl.tomatosauceChianti,Barbera,Sicilianred,Zin,SouthAustralianGrenache.

PastramiAlsaceRies,youngSangioveseorSt-Émilion.Pâté,chickenliverCallsforpungentwhite(AlsacePinotGror

Marsanne),asmoothredlikealightPomerol,VolnayorNZ

PinotN,orevenAmontilladoSherry.Morestronglyflavouredpâté(duck,etc.)needsChâteauneuf-du-Pape,Cornas,ChiantiClassico,Franciacorta,orgdwhiteGraves.

PipéradeNavarrarosado,ProvenceorsouthernFrenchrosés.OrdryAustralianRies.Forared:Corbières.

Prawns,shrimps,orlangoustinesFinedrywhite:burgundy,Graves,NZChard,WashingtonRies,PfalzRies,AustralianRies–evenfinematureChampagne.(“Cocktailsauce”killswine,andintime,people.)

Prosciutto(alsowithmelon,pears,orfigs)Full,dryormediumwhite:Orvieto,Lugana,GrünerVeltliner,TokajiFurmint,whiteRioja,AustralianSem,orJurançonSec.

RisottoPinotGrfromFriuli,Gavi,youngishSém,Dolcetto,orBarberad’Alba.withfungiporciniFinestmatureBaroloorBarbaresco.neroArich,drywhite;ViognierorevenCorton-

Charlemagne.SaladsAnydryandappetizingwhiteorroséwine.

NBVinegarinsaladdressingsdestroystheflavourofwine.Whydon’ttheFrenchknowthis?Ifyouwantsaladatamealwithfinewine,dressitwithwineorlemonjuiceinsteadofvinegar.

Salmon,smokedAdrybutpungentwhite:fino(espManzanilla)Sherry,AlsacePinotGr,grandcruChablis,Pouilly-Fumé,PfalzRiesSpätlese,vintageChampagne.Vodka,schnapps,orakvavit.

SoufflésAsshowdishesthesedeserve★★★wines.cheeseRedburgundyorBordeaux,CabSauv(notChileanorAustralian),etc.Orfinewhiteburgundy.fishDrywhite:★★★Burgundy,Bordeaux,Alsace,Chard,etc.spinach(tougheronwine)Mâcon-Villages,St-Véranor

Valpolicella.Champagnecanalsobegdwiththetextureofsoufflé.

TapasPerfectwithFinoSherry,whichcancopewiththewiderangeofflavoursinbothhotandcolddishes.Orsake.

TapenadeManzanillaorFinoSherry,oranysharpishdrywhiteorrosé.

TaramasalataArusticsouthernwhitewithpersonality;evenpossiblyretsina.FinoSherryworkswell.TrywhiteRiojaoraRhôneMarsanne.Ablandsupermarkettaramasubmitstofine,delicatewhitesorChampagne.

TempuraTheJapanesefavouroakedChardwithacidity.IpreferChampagne.

TortillaRiojaCrianza,FinoSherryorwhiteMâcon-Villages.Trout,smokedSancerre;CaliforniaorSouthAfricanSauvBl.

RullyorBourgogneAligoté,ChablisorChampagne.GermanRiesKabinettFeinherb.

VegetableterrineNotagreathelptofinewine,butChileanChardmakesafashionablemarriage,CheninBlsuchasVouvrayalastingone.

WhitebaitCrispdrywhites,eg.Furmint,Greek,TouraineSauvBl,Verdicchio;orFinoSherry.

FishAbaloneDryormediumwhite:SauvBl,CôtedeBeauneBlanc,

PinotGr,GrünerVeltliner.Chinese-style:vintageChampagne(atleast),orAlsace.

Anchovies,marinatedSkipthemarinade;itwillclashwithprettywelleverything.Keepitlight,white,dryandneutral.inoliveoilorsaltedAnchoviesarefinewithout.Arobustwine:red,white,orrosé–tryRioja.

Bass,seaWeissburgunderfromBadenorPfalz.V.gdforanyfine/delicatewhite,eg.ClaredryRies,Chablis,whiteChâteauneuf-du-Pape.Butstrengthentheflavoursofthewineaccordingtotheflavouringsofthefish:gingerandspringonionsneedmorepowerfulRies.

Beurreblanc,fishwithAtop-notchMuscadetsurLie,aSauv

Bl/Sémblend,premiercruChablis,Vouvray,oraRheingauRies.

BrandadePremiercruChablis,SancerreRouge,orNZPinotN.

BrillV.delicate:henceatopfishforfineoldPulignyandthelike.

Cod,roastGdneutralbackgroundforfinedry/mediumwhites:Chablis,Meursault,Corton-Charlemagne,cruclasséGraves,GrünerVeltliner,GermanKabinettorGrossesGewächs,oragdlightishPinotN.blackwithmisosauceNZorOregonPinotN.OrRheingauRiesSpätlese.

CrabCrabandRiesarepartoftheCreator’splan.Chinese,withgingerandonionGermanRiesKabinettorSpätleseHalbtrocken.TokajiFurmint,Gewurz.cioppinoSauvBl;butWestCoastfriendssayZin.Also

Californiasparkling.cold,dressedAlsace,Austrian,orRhineRies;dryAustralianRies,orCondrieu.softshellChardortop-qualityGermanRiesSpätlese.ThaicrabcakesPungentSauvBl(Loire,SouthAfrica,Australia,NZ)orRies(GermanSpätleseorAustralian).withblackbeansauceAbigBarossaShirazorSyrah.EvenCognac.withchilliandgarlicQuitepowerfulRies,perhapsGermanGrossesGewächsorWachauAustrian.

CurryAgenerictermforamultitudeofflavours.Chilliemphasizestannin,soredsneedsupple,evolvedtannins.Spanishrosécanbeagdbet.Hot-and-sourflavours(eg.withtamarindortomato)needacidity(perhapsSauvBl);mild,creamydishesneedrichnessoftexture(dryAlsaceRies).ButbestofallisSherry:Finowithfish.(PaloCortado

ordryAmontilladowithmeat.)It’srevelatory.Eel,smokedRies,Alsace,orAustrianordryTokajiFurmint.

OrFinoSherry,BourgogneAligoté.Schnapps.Fishandchips,frittomisto,tempuraChablis,whiteBordeaux,

SauvBl,PinotBl,Gavi,FinoSherry,Montilla,Koshu,tea;ornon-vintageChampagneorCava.

FishbakedinasaltcrustFull-bodiedwhiteorrosé:Albariño,Sicily,Greek,Hungarian.CôtesdeLubéronorMinervois.

Fishpie(withcreamysauce)Albariño,SoaveClassico,AlsacePinotGrorRies,SpanishGodello.

HaddockRich,drywhites:Meursault,CaliforniaChard,Marsanne,GrünerVeltliner.

HakeSauvBloranyfresh,fruitywhite:Pacherenc,Tursan,whiteNavarra.

HalibutAsforTURBOT.

Herrings,fried/grilledNeedawhitewithsomeaciditytocuttheirrichness.TryRully,Chablis,Muscadet,BourgogneAligoté,Greek,drySauvBl.Orcider.

KedgereeFullwhite,stillorsparkling:Mâcon-Villages,SouthAfricanChard,GrünerVeltliner,GermanGrossesGewächsor(atbreakfast)Champagne.

KippersAgdcupoftea,preferablyCeylon(milk,nosugar).Scotch?DryOlorosoSherryissurprisinglygd.

LamproieàlaBordelaise5-yr-oldSt-ÉmilionorFronsac.OrDouroredswithPortugueselampreys.

Lobster,richlysaucedVintageChampagne,finewhiteburgundy,cruclasséGraves,CaliforniaChard,orAustralianRies,GrossesGewächs,PfalzSpätlese.coldwithmayonnaiseNon-vintageChampagne,AlsaceRies,premiercruChablis,Condrieu,MoselSpätleseoralocalfizz.

Mackerel,grilledHardorsharpwhitetocuttheoil:SauvBlfromTouraine,Gaillac,VinhoVerde,whiteRioja,orEnglishwhite.OrGuinness.withspicesAustrianRies,GrünerVeltliner,GermanGrossesGewächs.

MonkfishOftenroasted,whichneedsfullerratherthanleanerwines.TryNZChard,NZ/OregonPinotN,orChileanMerlot.

Mullet,greyVerdicchio,Rully,orunoakedChard.Mullet,redAchameleon,adaptabletogdwhiteorred,esp

PinotN.MusselsmarinièresMuscadetsurLie,premiercruChablis,

unoakedChard.stuffed,withgarlicSeeESCARGOTS.

Paella,shellfishFull-bodiedwhiteorrosé,unoakedChard.OrthelocalSpanishred.

Perch,sandreExquisitefishforfinestwines:topwhiteburgundy,grandcruAlsaceRies,ornobleMosels.OrtrytopSwissChasselas(eg.Dézaley,St-Saphorin).

Prawnswithmayonnaise,Menetou-Salon,withgarlicKeepthewinelight,whiteorrosé,anddry.withspicesUptoandinclchilli,goforabitmorebody,butnotoak:dryRiesgd.

Salmon,searedorgrilledPinotNisthefashionableoption,butChardisbetter.Merlotorlightclaretisnotbad.Bestisfinewhiteburgundy,eg.Puligny-orChassagne-Montrachet,Meursault,Corton-Charlemagne,grandcruChablis;GrünerVeltliner,Condrieu,California/Idaho/NZChard,RheingauKabinett/Spätlese,AustralianRies.fishcakesCallforsimilar(asforabove)butlessgrandwines.

Sardines,freshgrilledV.drywhite:VinhoVerde,Muscadet,

ormodernGreek.SashimiTheJapanesepreferenceisforwhitewinewithbody

(ChablisPremierCru,AlsaceRies)withwhitefish,PinotNwithred.Bothneedacidity:low-aciditywinesdon’twork.SimpleChabliscanbeabitthin.Ifsoyisinvolved,thenlow-tanninred(again,Pinot).RememberSake(orFinoSherry).

ScallopsAninherentlyslightlysweetdish,bestwithmedium-drywhites.increamsaucesGermanSpätlese,Montrachets,ortopAustralianChard.grilledorsearedHermitageBlanc,GrünerVeltliner,Pessac-LéognanBlanc,vintageChampagneorPinotN.withAsianseasoningNZChard,CheninBl,Verdelho,Godello,Gewurz.

SeacucumberTheonlyChineseseafoodthatworksbetterwith

redthanwhite,mostlybecauseit’sthesaucethatgivestheflavour.Itneedscomplexity,andsilkytexture:gd,maturePinotN,Barolo,ortopRiojawork,alsotopBordeaux.

ShellfishDrywhitewithplainshellfish,richerwineswithrichersauces.Ries.withplateauxdefruitsdemerChablis,Muscadet,PicpouldePinet,orAltoAdigePinotBl.

Skate/raiewithbrownbutterWhitewithsomepungency(eg.PinotGrd’AlsaceorRoussanne),oraclean,straightforwardwinelikeMuscadetorVerdicchio.

SnapperSauvBlifcookedwithorientalflavours;whiteRhôneorProvenceroséwithMediterraneanflavours.

Sole,plaice,etc.,plain,grilled,orfriedPerfectwithfinewines:whiteburgundyoritsequivalent.withsauceAccordingtotheingredients:sharp,drywinefortomatosauce,fairlyrichforcreamypreparations.

SushiHotwasabiisusuallyhiddenineverypiece.GermanQbATrockenwines,simpleChablis,ornon-vintagebrutChampagne.Obviousfruitdoesn’twork.Or,ofcourse,Sakeorbeer.

SwordfishFull-bodied,drywhiteofthecountry.Nothinggrand.

Tagine,withcouscousNorthAfricanflavoursneedsubstantialwhitestobalance–Austrian,Rhône–orcrisp,neutralwhitesthatwon’tcompete.Goeasyontheoak.ViognierorAlbariñocanworkwell.

Trout,grilledorfriedDelicatewhitewine,eg.Mosel(espSaarorRuwer),AlsacePinotBl,Fendant.

Tuna,grilledorsearedBestservedrare(orraw)withlightredwine:CabFrfromtheLoire,orPinotN.YoungRiojaisapossibility.

TurbotThekingoffishes.Servewithyourbestrich,drywhite:

MeursaultorChassagne-Montrachet,Corton-Charlemagne,matureChablisoritsCalifornia,AustralianorNZequivalent.Condrieu.MatureRheingau,MoselorNaheSpätleseorAuslese(notTrocken).

Meat,poultry,gameBarbecuesThelocalwine:Australian,SouthAfrican,Chilean,

Argentinaarerightinspirit.Redsneedtannin,butsilkytanninsarebestwithsauces.

Asianflavours(lime,coriander,etc.)Rosé,PinotGr,Ries.chilliShiraz,Zin,Pinotage,Malbec,ChileanSyrah.MiddleEastern(cumin,mint)Crisp,drywhites,rosé.oil,lemon,herbsSauvBl.tomatosaucesZin,Sangiovese.

Beef,boiledRed:Bordeaux(BourgogneorFronsac),Roussillon,Gevrey-ChambertinorCôte-Rôtie.Medium-rankingwhiteburgundyisgd,eg.Auxey-Duresses.Ortop-notchbeer.Mustardsoftenstannicreds,horseradishkillseverything–butcanbeworththesacrifice.

roastAnidealpartnerforyourfineredwineofanykind.Amarone,perhaps?Seeaboveformustard.stew,daube,Sturdyred:PomerolorSt-Émilion,Hermitage,Cornas,Barbera,Shiraz,NapaCabSauv,RiberadelDueroorDourored.

BeefstroganoffDramaticred:Barolo,AmaronedellaValpolicella,Priorat,Hermitage,late-harvestZin–evenMoldovanNegrudePurkar.

Boudinblanc(whiteporksausage)LoireCheninBl,espwhenservedwithapples:dryVouvray,Saumur,Savennières;matureredCôtedeBeauneifwithout.

Boudinnoir(bloodsausage)LocalSauvBlorCheninBl–espintheLoire.OrBeaujolaiscru,espMorgon.OrlightTempranillo.

Cabbage,stuffedHungarianCabFr/Kadarka;villageRhône;SaliceSalentino,Primitivoandotherspicysouthern-Italian

reds.OrArgentineMalbec.CajunfoodFleurie,Brouilly,orNewWorldSauvBl.With

gumboAmontillado.CassouletRedfromSouthwestFrance(Gaillac,Minervois,

Corbières,St-Chinian,orFitou)orShiraz.ButbestofallBeaujolaiscruoryoungTempranillo.

ChickenKievAlsaceRies,Collio,Chard,BergeracRouge.Chicken/turkey/guineafowl,roastVirtuallyanywine,inclv.

bestbottlesofdrytomediumwhiteandfinestoldreds(espburgundy).Themeatoffowlcanbeadaptedwithsaucestomatchalmostanyfinewine(eg.coqauvinwithredorwhiteburgundy).Withstrong,spicystuffing,AustralianShiraz.

ChilliconcarneYoungred:Beaujolais,Tempranillo,Zin,ArgentineMalbec,ChileanCarmenère.

CantoneseRoséordrytodryishwhite–MoselRiesKabinettorSpätleseTrocken–canbegdthroughoutaChinesebanquet.

Gewurzisoftensuggestedbutrarelyworks;Cantonesefoodneedsacidityinwine.Drysparkling(espCava)workswiththetextures.Redsworkv.well,butyouneedthecomplexityofmaturity,andasilkyrichness.Youngtanninsaredisasterousasareoveroaked,overextractedmonsters.PinotNisfirstchoice;tryalsoSt-Émilion★★orChâteauneuf-du-Pape.IoftenservebothwhiteandredwinesconcurrentlyduringChinesemeals.Champagnebecomesathirst-quencher.ShanghaiSomewhatricherandoilierthanCantonese,Shanghaifoodtendstobelowonchillibuthighonvinegarofvarioussorts.German,AlsacewhitescanbesweeterthanforCantonese.Forreds,maturePinotNisagainbest.SzechuanstyleVerdicchio,AlsacePinotBl,orv.coldbeer.MaturePinotNcanalsowork,butmakesurethetanninsaresilky.

ChoucroutegarniAlsacePinotBl,PinotGr,Ries,orlager.ColdroastmeatGenerallybetterwithfull-flavouredwhitethan

red.MoselSpätleseorHochheimerandCôteChalonnaisearev.gd,asisBeaujolais.LeftovercoldbeefwithleftovervintageChampagneisbliss.

Confitd’oie/decanardYoung,tannicredBordeaux,CaliforniaCabSauvandMerlot,andPrioratcutrichness.AlsacePinotGrorGewurzmatchit.

CoqauvinRedburgundy.Ideal:onebottleChambertinindish,twoonthetable.

DuckorgooseRatherrichwhite,eg.PfalzSpätleseoroff-drygrandcruAlsace.Ormature,gameyred:Morey-St-Denis,Côte-Rôtie,Bordeaux,burgundy.Withorangesorpeaches,theSauternaisproposedrinkingSauternes,othersMonbazillacorRiesAuslese.Mature,weightyvintageChampagneisgd,too,andhandlesredcabbagesurprisingly

well.PekingSeeCHINESEFOOD.

wildduckBig-scalered:Hermitage,Bandol,CaliforniaorSouthAfricanCabSauv,AustralianShiraz–Grangeifyoucanaffordit.witholivesTop-notchChiantiorotherTuscans.roastbreast&confitlegwithPuylentilsMadiran,St-Émilion,Fronsac.

FrankfurtersGerman/NewYorkRies,Beaujolais,lightPinotN.Budweiser(Budvar).

Gamebirds,young,plain-roastedBestredwineaffordable,butnotbigAussieone.olderbirdsincasserolesRed(Gevrey-Chambertin,Pommard,Santenay,orgrandcruclasséSt-Émilion,NapaValleyCabSauvorRhône).well-hunggameVegaSicilia,greatredRhône,Château

Musar.coldgameMaturevintageChampagne.

Gamepie,hotRed:OregonPinotN.coldGd-qualitywhiteburgundy,cruBeaujolais,orChampagne.

GoulashFlavoursomeyoungred:HungarianKékoportó,Zin,UruguayanTannat,MorellinodiScansano,Mencía,youngAustralianShiraz.OrdryTokaji.

GrouseSeeGAMEBIRDS–butpushtheboatrightout.HaggisFruityred,eg.youngclaret,youngPortuguesered,New

WorldCabSauvorMalbec,orChâteauneuf-du-Pape.Or,ofcourse,maltwhisky.

Ham,cookedSofterredburgundies:Volnay,Savigny,Beaune;ChinonorBourgueil;sweetishGermanwhite(RhineSpätlese);TokajiFurmintorCzechFrankovka;lightishCabSauv(eg.Chilean),orNewWorldPinotN.Anddon’tforget

theheaven-madematchofhamandSherry.SeeHAM,RAWORCURED.

HamburgerYoungred:AustralianCabSauv,Chianti,Zin,ArgentineMalbec,ChileanCarmenèreorSyrah,Tempranillo.Orfull-strengthcolas(notdiet).

HareJuggedharecallsforflavourfulred:not-too-oldburgundyorBordeaux,Rhône(eg.Gigondas),Bandol,Barbaresco,RiberadelDuero,RiojaRes.Thesameforsaddle,orforharesaucewithpappardelle.

IndiandishesVariousoptions.Thisyear’sdiscoveryhasbeenhowwell(dry)SherrygoeswithIndianfood:afairlyweightyFinowithfish,andPaloCortado,AmontilladoorOlorosowithmeat,accordingtotheweightofthedish;heat’snotaproblem.Thetextureworks,too.Or,medium-sweetwhite,v.cold:Orvietoabboccato,SouthAfricanCheninBl,AlsacePinotBl,Torrontés,Indiansparkling,

Cava,ornon-vintageChampagne.Rosécanbeasafeall-rounder.Tannin–BaroloorBarbaresco,ordeep-flavouredredssuchasChâteauneuf-du-Pape,Cornas,AustralianGrenacheorMourvèdre,orAmaronedellaValpolicella–willemphasizetheheat.Softredscanbeeasier.Hot-and-sourflavoursneedacidity.

JapanesedishesTextureandbalancearekey;flavoursaresubtle.Gdmaturefizzworkswell,asdoesmaturedryRies;acidity,abitofbodyandcomplexityareneeded.Umami-filledmeatdishesfavourlight,supple,brightreds:Beaujolaisperhaps,ormaturePinotN.Full-flavouredYakitorineedslively,fruity,youngerversionsofthesamereds.SeealsoSUSHI,SASHIMI.

KebabsVigorousred:modernGreek,Corbières,ChileanCabSauv,Zin,orBarossaShiraz.SauvBl,iflotsofgarlic.

KidneysRed:St-ÉmilionorFronsac,Castillon,Nuits-St-

Georges,Cornas,Barbaresco,Rioja,SpanishorAustralianCabSauv,topAlentejo.

KoreandishesFruit-forwardwinesseemtoworkbestwithstrong,pungentKoreanflavours.PinotN,Beaujolais,Valpolicellacanallwork:acidityisneeded.Non-aromaticwhites:GrünerVeltliner,Silvaner,Vernaccia.

Lamb,roastOneofthetraditionalandbestpartnersforv.gdredBordeaux–oritsCabSauvequivalentsfromtheNewWorld.InSpain,thepartnerofthefinestoldRiojaandRiberadelDueroRes;inItaly,dittoSangiovese.cutletsorchopsAsforroastlamb,butalittlelessgrand.slow-cookedroastFlatterstopreds,butneedslesstanninthanpinklamb.

LiverYoungred:Beaujolais-Villages,St-Joseph,Médoc,ItalianMerlot,BreganzeCabSauv,Zin,Tempranillo,PortugueseBairrada.

calvesRedRiojaCrianza,SaliceSalentinoRiserva,Fleurie.MeatballsTangy,medium-bodiedred:Mercurey,Crozes-

Hermitage,Madiran,MorellinodiScansano,LangheNebbiolo,Zin,CabSauv.spicyMiddle-EasternstyleSimple,rusticred.

MoussakaRedorrosé:NaoussafromGreece,Sangiovese,Corbières,CôtesdeProvence,Ajaccio,NZPinotN,youngZin,Tempranillo.

MuttonAstrongerflavourthanlamb,andnotservedpink.Robustbutelegantredandtop-notch,matureCabSauv,Syrah.Somesweetnessoffruitsuitsit.

OssobuccoLow-tannin,suppleredsuchasDolcettod’AlbaorPinotN.OrdryItalianwhitesuchasSoaveandLugana.

Oxcheek,braisedSuperblytenderandflavoursome,thisflattersthebestreds:VegaSicilia,Bordeaux.Bestwithsubstantialwines.

OxtailRatherrichred:St-Émilion,Pomerol,Pommard,Nuits-St-Georges,Barolo,orRiojaRes,RiberadelDuero,CaliforniaorCoonawarraCabSauv,Châteauneuf-du-Pape,mid-weightShiraz,Amarone.

PaellaYoungSpanishwines:red,drywhiteorrosé:Penedès,Somontano,Navarra,orRioja.

PigeonLivelyreds:Savigny,Chambolle-Musigny,Crozes-Hermitage,ChiantiClassico,ArgentineMalbec,orCaliforniaPinotN.OrFrankenSilvanerSpätlese.

Pork,roastAgd,rich,neutralbackgroundtoafairlylightredorrichwhite.Itdeserves★★treatment–Médocisfine.Portugal’ssucklingpigiseatenwithBairradagarrafeira;ChineseisgdwithPinotN.porkbellySlow-cookedandmeltinglytender,thisneedsaredwithsomeacidity.Italianwouldbegd:DolcettoorBarbera.LoireredorlightishArgentineMalbec.

Potaufeu,bollitomisto,cocidoRusticredsfromtheregionoforigin;SangiovesediRomagna,Chusclan,Lirac,Rasteau,PortugueseAlentejo,Spain’sYeclaorJumilla.

QuailCarmignano,RiojaRes,matureclaret,PinotN.Oramellowwhite:VouvrayorSt-Péray.

RabbitLively,medium-bodiedyoungItalianredorAglianicodelVulture;Chiroubles,Chinon,Saumur-Champigny,orRhônerosé.withprunesBigger,richer,fruitierred.asragùMedium-bodiedredwithacidity.

SatayAustralia’sMcLarenValeShiraz,orAlsaceorNZGewurz.Peanutsauceisaproblemwithwine.

Sauerkraut(German)LagerorPils.(ButseealsoCHOUCROUTEGARNI.)

SausagesSeealsoCHARCUTERIE,FRANKFURTERS.TheBritishbangerrequiresayoungMalbecfromArgentina(aredwine,

anyway),orBritishale.Shepherd’spieRough-and-readyredseemsmostappropriate,

eg.SangiovesediRomagna,buteitherbeerordrycideristherealMcCoy.

SingaporeandishesPartIndian,partMalayandpartChinese,Singaporeanfoodhasbig,boldflavoursthatdon’tmatcheasilywithwine.Off-dryRiesisasgdasanything.Withmeatdishes,ripe,supplereds:Valpolicella,PinotN,Dornfelder,unoakedMerlot,orCarmenère.

SteakaupoivreAfairlyyoungRhôneredorCabSauv.filetortournedosAnyred(butnotoldwineswithbéarnaisesauce:topNewWorldPinotNorCalifornianChardisbetter).Fiorentina(bistecca)ChiantiClassicoRiservaorBrunello.Therarerthemeat,themoreclassicthewine;themorewell-

done,themoreyouneedNewWorld,fruit-drivenwines.ArgentinaMalbecistheperfectpartnerforsteakArgentine-style,ie.cookedtodeath.Koreanyukwhe(theworld’sbeststeaktartare)Sake.tartareVodkaorlightyoungred:Beaujolais,Bergerac,Valpolicella.T-boneRedsofsimilarbonestructure:Barolo,Hermitage,AustralianCabSauvorShiraz,ChileanSyrah.

Steak-and-kidneypieorpuddingRedRiojaResormatureBordeaux.

StewsandcasserolesBurgundysuchasNuits-St-GeorgesorPommardiffairlysimple;otherwiselusty,full-flavouredred:youngCôtesduRhône,Toro,Corbières,Barbera,Shiraz,Zin,etc.

SweetbreadsArichdish,sograndwine:RheingauRiesorFrankenSilvanerSpätlese,grandcruAlsacePinotGror

Condrieu,dependingonsauce.TaginesThesevaryenormously,butfruityyoungredsareagd

bet:Beaujolais,Tempranillo,Sangiovese,Merlot,Shiraz.Chickenwithpreservedlemon,olivesViognier.

TandoorichickenRiesorSauvBl,youngredBordeaux,orlightnorthItalianredservedcool.AlsoCavaandnon-vintageChampagne,anddryPaloCortadoorAmontilladoSherry.

ThaidishesGingerandlemongrasscallforpungentSauvBl(Loire,Australia,NZ,SouthAfrica)orRies(SpätleseorAustralian).Mostcurriessuitaromaticwhiteswithatouchofsweetness:GermanorAlsaceRies.Gewurzisalsogd.

TongueGdforanyredorwhiteofabundantcharacter,espItalian.AlsoBeaujolais,Loirereds,Tempranillo,andfull,dryrosés.

Veal,roastGdforanyfineoldredthatmayhavefadedwith

age(eg.RiojaRes)oraGermanorAustrianRies,Vouvray,AlsacePinotGr.

VenisonBig-scalereds,inclMourvèdre,soloasinBandolorinblends.Rhône,BordeauxorCaliforniaCabSauvofamaturevintage;orrichwhite–PfalzSpätleseorAlsacePinotGr.Withasweetandsharpberrysauce,tryaGermanGrossesGewächsRiesoraChileanCarmenèreorSyrah.

VitellotonnatoFull-bodiedwhites:Chard;lightreds(eg.Valpolicella)servedcool.

WildboarSeriousred:topTuscanorPriorat.NZSyrah.

Vegetariandishes(seealsoFIRSTCOURSES)BakedpastadishesPasticcio,lasagneandcannelloniwith

elaboratevegetarianfillingsandsauces:anoccasiontoshowoffagrandwine,espfinestTuscanred,butalsoclaretandburgundy.Gaviifyouwantwhite.

BeetrootMimicsaflavourfoundinredburgundy.Youcouldreturnthecompliment.andgoatscheesegratinSauvBl.

CauliflowercheeseCrisp,aromaticwhite:Sancerre,RiesSpätlese,Muscat,EnglishSeyvalBl,Godello.

CouscouswithvegetablesYoungredwithabite:Shiraz,Corbières,Minervois;orwell-chilledroséfromNavarraorSomontano;orarobustMoroccanred.

Fennel-baseddishesSauvBl:Pouilly-FuméoronefromNZ;

EnglishSeyvalBloryoungTempranillo.GrilledMediterraneanvegetablesBrouilly,Barbera,

Tempranillo,orShiraz.LentildishesSturdyredssuchasCorbières,Zin,orShiraz.

dhal,withspinachTricky.Soft,lightredorroséisbest–andnottop-flight.

MacaronicheeseAsforCAULIFLOWERCHEESE.Mushrooms(inmostcontexts)Gdwithmanyreds.Pomerol,

CaliforniaMerlot,RiojaRes,topburgundy,orVegaSicilia.Ontoast,bestclaret.Ceps/porcini,RiberadelDuero,Barolo,ChiantiRufina,PauillacorSt-Estèphe.

Onion/leektartFruity,off-dryordrywhite:AlsacePinotGrorGewurz,CanadianorNZRies,Englishwhites,Jurançon,AustralianRies.OrLoirered.

Peppersoraubergines(eggplant),stuffedVigorousredwine:Nemea,Chianti,Dolcetto,Zin,Bandol,Vacqueyras.

Pumpkin/squashravioliorrisottoFull-bodied,fruity,dry,oroff-drywhite:ViognierorMarsanne,demi-secVouvray,Gavi,orSouthAfricanChenin.

RatatouilleVigorousyoungred:Chianti,NZCabSauv,Merlot,Malbec,Tempranillo;youngredBordeaux,Gigondas,orCoteauxduLanguedoc.

Spanacopitta(spinachandfetapie)YoungGreekorItalianredorwhite.

SpicedvegetariandishesSeeINDIANDISHES,THAIDISHES(MEAT,POULTRY,GAME).

Watercress,rawMakeseverywineonearthtasterevolting.Soupisslightlyeasier,butdoesn’trequirewine.

Wildgarlicleaves,wiltedTricky:afairlyneutralwhitewithaciditywillcopebest.

DessertsApplepie,strudelortartsSweetGerman,Austrian,orLoire

white;TokajiAszúorCanadianIcewine.Apples,Cox’sorangepippinsVintagePort(andsweetmeal

biscuits)istheSaintsbury[wine]Clubplan.Bread-and-butterpuddingFine10-yr-oldBarsac,TokajiAszú

orAustralianbotrytizedSem.CakesandgâteauxSeealsoCHOCOLATE,COFFEE,GINGER,RUM.

BualorMalmseyMadeira,OlorosoorCreamSherry.cupcakesProseccopressesalltherightbuttons.

CheesecakeSweetwhite:Vouvray,Anjou,orfizz–refreshing,nothingspecial.

ChocolateAtalkingpoint.Generallyonlypowerfulflavourscancompete.Texturematters.Bual,CaliforniaOrange

Muscat,TokajiAszú,AustralianLiqueurMuscat,10-yr-oldTawnyPort;Astiforlight,fluffymousses.Experimentwithrich,ripereds:Syrah,Zin,evensparklingShiraz.Banyulsforaweightierpartnership.Médoccanmatchbitterblackchocolate,thoughAmaroneismorefun.Oratotofgdrum.andoliveoilmousse10-yr-oldTawnyPortorasforblackchocolate,above.

Christmaspudding,mincepiesTawnyPort,CreamSherryorliquidChristmaspuddingitself:PedroXiménezSherry.AstiorBanyuls.

CoffeedessertsSweetMuscat,AustralianLiqueurMuscats,orTokajiAszú.

Creams,custards,fools,syllabubsSeealsoCHOCOLATE,COFFEE,GINGER,RUM.Sauternes,Loupiac,Ste-Croix-du-Mont,orMonbazillac.

CrèmebrûléeSauternesorRhineBeerenauslese,bestMadeira

orTokajiAszú.(Withconcealedfruit,amoremodestsweetwine.)

CrêpesSuzetteSweetChampagne,OrangeMuscat,orAsti.Fruit

blackberriesVintageorLBVPort.driedfruit(andcompotes)Banyuls,Rivesaltes,Maury.TokajiAszú.flansandtartsSauternes,Monbazillac,sweetVouvray,orAnjou.freshSweetCoteauxduLayonorlight,sweetMuscat.poached,ie.apricots,pears,etc.TokajiAszú,SweetMuscatel:tryMuscatdeBeaumes-de-Venise,MoscatodiPantelleriaorSpanishdessertTarragona.salads,orangesaladAfinesweetSherryoranyMuscat-basedwine.

GingerflavoursSweetMuscats,NewWorldbotrytizedRies

andSém.Orlate-harvestGewurz.IcecreamandsorbetsFortifiedwine(AustralianLiqueur

Muscat,Banyuls).PedroXiménezSherry,Amarettoliqueurwithvanilla;rumwithchocolate.

LemonflavoursFordishesliketarteaucitron,trysweetRiesfromGermanyorAustria,orTokajiAszú;v.sweetiflemonisv.tart.

MeringuesReciotodiSoave,AstiortopvintageChampagne,well-aged.

Mille-feuilleDelicatesweetsparkling,ie.Moscatod’Astiordemi-secChampagne.

Nuts(includingpraliné)FinestOlorosoSherry,Madeira,VintageorTawnyPort(nature’smatchforwalnuts),TokajiAszú,VinSanto,orSetúbalMoscatel.saltednutparfaitTokajiAszú,VinSanto.

OrangeflavoursExperiment:oldSauternes,TokajiAszú.

CaliforniaOrangeMuscat.PanettoneJurançonmoelleux,late-harvestRies,Barsac,Tokaji

Aszú.PearsinredwinePausebeforePort.OrtryRivesaltes,

Banyuls,RiesBeerenauslese.PecanpieOrangeMuscatorLiqueurMuscat.Raspberries(nocream,littlesugar)Excellentwithfinereds,

whichthemselvestasteofraspberries:youngJuliénas,Regnié.

Rumflavours(baba,mousses,icecream)Muscat–fromAstitoAustralianLiqueur,accordingtoweightofdish.

Saltedcaramelmousse/parfaitLate-harvestRies,TokajiAszú.Strawberries,wild(nocream)PouroverRedBordeaux(most

exquisitelyMargaux).StrawberriesandcreamSauternesorsimilarsweetBordeaux;

VouvraymoelleuxorvendangetardiveJurançon.SummerpuddingFairlyyoungSauternesofagdvintage.SweetsoufflésSauternesorVouvraymoelleux.Sweet(orrich)

Champagne.TiramisúVinSanto,youngTawnyPort,MuscatdeBeaumes-

de-Venise,SauternesorAustralianLiqueurMuscat.TrifleShouldbesufficientlyvibrantwithitsinternalSherry.ZabaglioneLight-goldMarsalaorAustralianbotrytizedSémor

Asti.

WINE&CHEESEThenotionthatwineandcheeseweremarriedinheavenisnotborneoutbyexperience.Fineredwinesareslaughteredbystrongcheeses;onlysharporsweetwhitewinessurvive.Principlestoremember(despiteexceptions):first,theharderthecheese,themoretanninthewinecanhave;second,thecreamierthecheese,themoreacidityrequiredinthewine.Cheeseisclassifiedbyitstextureandthenatureofitsrind,soitsappearanceisaguidetothetypeofwineneededtomatchit.Belowareexamples.Itrytokeepaglassofwhitewineformycheese.Bloomyrindsoftcheeses,pure-whiterindifpasteurized,or

dottedwithred:Brie,Camembert,Chaource,Bougon

(goatsmilk“Camembert”)Full,drywhiteburgundyorRhôneifthecheeseiswhiteandimmature;powerfulandfruitySt-Émilion,youngAustralian(orRhône)Shiraz/SyrahorGrenacheifit’smature.

BluecheesesRoquefortcanbewonderfulwithSauternes,butdon’textendtheideatootherblues.ItisthesweetnessofSauternes,espold,thatcomplementsthesaltiness.StiltonandPort,preferablyTawny,isaclassic.IntenselyflavouredoldOlorosoorAmontilladoSherry,Madeira,Marsala,andotherfortifiedwinesgowithmostblues.

Fresh,norind–creamcheese,crèmefraîche,mozzarellaLight,crispwhite–simpleBordeauxBlanc,Bergerac,Englishunoakedwhites;rosé:Anjou,Rhône;v.light,young,freshred:Bordeaux,Bardolino,orBeaujolais.

Hardcheeses,waxedoroiled,oftenshowingmarksfromcheesecloth–Gruyèrefamily,Manchegoandother

Spanishcheeses,Parmesan,Cantal,Comté,oldGouda,Cheddarandmost“traditional”EnglishcheesesParticularlyhardtogeneralizehere;Gouda,Gruyère,someSpanishandafewEnglishcheesescomplementfineclaretorCabSauvandgreatShiraz/Syrahwines.Butstrongcheesesneedlessrefinedwines,preferablylocalones.Sugary,granularoldDutchredMimoletteorBeaufortaregdforfinestmatureBordeaux.AlsoforTokajiAszú.Buttrywhitewines,too.

Naturalrind(mostlygoat’scheese)withbluish-greymould(therindbecomeswrinkledwhenmature),sometimesdustedwithash–St-MarcellinSancerre,Valençay,light,freshSauvBl,Jurançon,Savoie,Soave,ItalianChard,lightlyoakedEnglishwhites.

Semi-softcheeses,thickishgrey-pinkrind–Livarot,Pontl’Evêque,Reblochon,TommedeSavoie,St-Nectaire

PowerfulwhiteBordeaux,Chard,AlsacePinotGr,dryishRies,southernItalianandSicilianwhites,agedwhiteRioja,dryOlorosoSherry.Butthestrongestofthesecheeseskillsmostwines.

Washed-rindsoftcheeses,withrathersticky,orange-redrind–Langres,matureEpoisses,Maroilles,Carrédel’Est,Milleens,MünsterLocalreds(espforBurgundy):vigorousLanguedoc,Cahors,CôtesduFrontonnais,Corsican,southernItalian,Sicilian,Bairrada.Powerfulwhites:AlsaceGewurz,Muscat.

FOOD&FINESTWINESWithveryspecialbottles,thewineguidesthechoiceoffoodratherthantheotherwayaround.Thefollowingarebasedlargelyonthegastronomicconventionsandnewerexperimentsofthewineregionsmakingthesetreasures,plusmuchdiligentresearch.Theyshouldhelpbringoutthebestinyourbestwines.

RedwinesRedBordeauxandotherCabSauv-basedwines(v.old,light

anddelicatewines:eg.pre-1959,withexceptionssuchas1945).Legorrackofyounglamb,roastwithahintofherbs(butnotgarlic);entrecôte;simplyroastedpartridgeorgrouseorsweetbreads.

Fullymaturegreatvintages(eg.Bordeaux59618285)Shoulderorsaddleoflamb,roastwithatouchofgarlic,roastribsorgrilledrumpofbeef.

Maturebutstillvigorous(eg.8990)Shoulderorsaddleoflamb(inclkidneys)withrichsauce.Filletofbeefmarchanddevin(withwineandbonemarrow).AvoidbeefWellington:pastrydullsthepalate.

Merlot-basedBordeaux(Pomerol,St-Émilion)Beefasabove

(filletisrichest)orwell-hungvenison.Côted’OrredburgundyConsiderthewine’sweightand

texture,whichgrowlighter/morevelvetywithage,anditscharacter:Nuitsisearthy,Musignyflowery,greatRomanéescanbeexotic,Pommardrenownedforitsfour-squareness.Roastchickenorcaponisasafestandardwithredburgundy;guineafowlforslightlystrongerwines,thenpartridge,grouse,orwoodcockforthoseprogressivelymorerichandpungent.Hareandvenison(chevreuil)arealternatives.greatoldburgundyTheBurgundianformulaischeese:Epoisses(unfermented);afinecheesebutaterriblewasteoffineoldwines.vigorousyoungerburgundyDuckorgooseroastedtominimizefat.Orfaisinjan(pheasantcookedinpomegranatejuice).Orsmokedgammon.

GreatSyrahs:Hermitage,Côte-Rôtie,Grange;VegaSicilia

Beef(suchasthesuper-rich,super-tender,super-slow-cookedoxcheekIhadatVegaSicilia),venison,well-hunggame;bonemarrowontoast;Englishcheese(espbestfarmCheddar)butalsohardgoatsmilkandewesmilkcheesessuchasEngland’sBerkswellandTicklemore.

RiojaGranRes,Pesquera…Richlyflavouredroasts:wildboar,mutton,saddleofhare,wholesucklingpig.

Barolo,BarbarescoRisottowithwhitetruffles;pastawithgamesauce(eg.pappardelleallalepre);porcinimushrooms;Parmesan.

AmaroneClassically,inVerona,risottoall’Amaroneorpastissada.Butifyourbutcherdoesn’truntohorse,thenshinofbeef,slow-cookedinmoreAmarone.

GreatvintagePortorMadeiraWalnutsorpecans.ACox’sorangepippinandadigestivebiscuitisaclassicEnglishaccompaniment.

WhitewinesBeerenauslese/TrockenbeerenausleseBiscuits,peaches,

greengages.Dessertsmadefromrhubarb,gooseberries,quinces,apples.

Supremewhiteburgundy(Montrachet,Corton-Charlemagne)orequivalentGravesRoastveal,farmchickenstuffedwithtrufflesorherbsundertheskin,orsweetbreads;richlysaucedwhitefishorscallopsasabove.Orlobsterorpoachedwildsalmon.

VerygoodChablis,whiteburgundy,othertop-qualityChardsWhitefishsimplygrilledormeunière.Doversole,turbot,halibutarebest;brill,drenchedinbutter,canbeexcellent.(Seabassistoodelicate;salmonpassesbutdoeslittleforthefinestwine.)

Condrieu,Château-Grillet,HermitageBlancV.lightpastascentedwithherbsandtinypeasorbroadbeans(favabeans).

GrandcruAlsace:RieslingTruiteaubleu,smokedsalmon,orchoucroutegarni.PinotGrisRoastorgrilledveal.Ortrufflesandwich(sliceawholetruffle,makeasandwichwithsaltedbutterandgdcountrybread–notsourdoughorrye–wrapandrefrigerateovernight.Thentoastitintheoven.GewurztraminerCheesesoufflé(Münstercheese).vendangetardiveFoiegrasortartetatin.

OldvintageChampagne(notblancdeblancs)Asanapéritif,orwithcoldpartridge,grouse,woodcock.EvolvedflavoursofoldChampagnemakeitfareasiertomatchwithfoodthanthetightnessofyoungwine.Hotfoiegrascanbesensational.Don’tbeafraidofgarlicorevenIndianspices,

butomitthechilli.Late-disgorgedoldwineshaveextrafreshnessplustertiaryflavours.Trywithtruffles,lobster,scallops,crab,sweetbreads,porkbelly,roastveal,chicken.RoséPigeon.

SauternesSimplecrisp,butterybiscuits(eg.languesdechat),whitepeaches,nectarines,strawberries(nocream).Nottropicalfruit.Pan-searedfoiegras.Lobster,chickenwithSauternessauce.Châteaud’Yquemrecommendsoysters.Experimentwithbluecheeses.Rocquefortisclassic,butneedsapowerfulwine.

SupremeVouvraymoëlleux,etc.Butterybiscuits,apples,appletart.

TokajiAszú(5–6puttonyos)Foiegrasisrecommended.Fruitdesserts,creamdesserts,evenchocolatecanbewonderful.ItevenworkswithsomeChinese,thoughnotwithchilli–the

spicehastobeadjustedtomeetthesweetness.Szechuanpepperisgd.Havanacigarsaresplendid.Soisthenakedsip.

France

It’shardtoseeFranceasaproducerofundervaluedwine,becauseweassociatepartsoftheNewWorld,anditsrelentlessandskilfulbranding,withthat.Butbrandscanbemisleading.ThoseAustralian/Chilean/USbrandsthatareconstantlyondiscountinsupermarketsarenotbargains;theyaremadetoaprice,andthatpriceisthediscountedprice.Francedoesn’thavebigbrandsofthatsort.Marketingpeoplesayit’sFrance’sproblem;forconsumersit’sFrance’sadvantage.Brandsarenotgoodvalue;they’remerelyreliable,inthewaythatamass-producedcarisreliable.Whodoyouimaginepaysfortheadvertizing?We,theconsumers,do.Everycostisbuiltintothatdiscountedprice.Nothingisgivenaway.Where’sthebargain?

France,lackingbigbrands,hasnooksandcranniesinstead.Sometimesthesecanberatherlarge:bigchunksoftheMidiforscentsofthegarrigue,longstretchesoftheLoireforresolutely

unflashy,appetizingreds.Below-the-radarvillageslikeMarsannayifyouwantproperburgundianPinotNoiratless-than-burgundianprices.ThesouthernRhône.Burgundypricesarerisingunderthepressureofdemand.Bordeauxpricesareallovertheplace;non-classifiedchâteauxandearlycenturyvintageslookgoodvalue.Francecan’tofferthesimplicityofbuyingabrandnamethattastesthesamemonthaftermonth;butifyouwantedthat,whywouldyouhavebotheredtopickupthisbook?

Franceentriesalsocross-referencetoChâteauxofBordeaux

RecentvintagesoftheFrenchclassics

RedBordeaux

Médoc/RedGravesForsomewines,bottle-ageisoptional;fortheseitisindispensable.Minorchâteauxfromlightvintagesneedonlytwoorthreeyears,butevenmodestwinesofgreatyearscanimprovefor15orso,andthegreatchâteauxoftheseyearscanprofitfromdoublethattime.2012 Erraticweather.Smallcrop.DifficultiesripeningCabSauv.

Vineyardworkandselectionessential.Bechoosy.2011Complicated:springdrought,coolJuly,rain,heat,rot.Indian

summersavedtheday.Mixedquality.Classicfreshness,moderatealcohollevels.

2010Anotheroutstandingyear.Difficultfloweringandtiny

berries:smallercropthan2009.Oneofdriestsummersever:magnificentCabSauv,deepcoloured,concentrated,firmlystructured.Ataprice.

2009Outstandingyear,toutedas“TheGreatest”.Hot,drysummer,extendedsunnyharvest;structuredwineswithexuberanceoffruit.Don’tmissthis.

2008Muchbetterthanexpected;freshclassicflavours.CabSauvripenedinlate-seasonsun.Yieldsdownduetopoorfruitset,mildew,frost.Laterdrinkingthan2009.

2007Miserablesummer,hugeattackofmildewspelledadifficultyear.Easy-drinking;notmanywillage.Beselective.

2006CabSauvdifficultyripening;bestfine,tasty,nervous,long-ageing.Goodcolour,acidity.Startingtodrink.

2005 Perfectweatherconditionsthroughouttheyear.Rich,balanced,long-ageingwinesfromanoutstandingvintage.Keepallmajorwines.

2004Mixedbag;topwinesgoodinclassicmould.Drinkingnow,bestwillage.

2003Hottestsummeronrecord.CabSauvcanbegreat(St-Estèphe,Pauillac).Atypicalbutrich,powerfulatbest(keep),unbalancedatworst(drinkup).Bewarned.Soon,formost.

2002 Savedbyadry,sunnySeptember.Later-ripeningCabSauvbenefitedmost.Somegoodwinesifselective.Drinknow–2018.

2001AcoolSeptemberandrainatvintagemeantCabSauvwasnotsuper-ripe.Someexcellentfreshwines,drinknow–2015.

2000 Superbwinesthroughout.Starttentativelyonallbutthetopwines.

Olderfinevintages:9896959089888685827570666261595553494847452928.

St-Émilion/Pomerol

2012 SameconditionsastheMédoc.Earlier-harvestedMerlotperhapsmarginallymoresuccessful.

2011ComplicatedasintheMédoc.Loweralcoholthan2010and2009.GoodCabFr.Pomerolperhapsbestoverall.

2010Outstanding.Powerfulwinesagainwithhighalcohol.Smallberriessoalotofconcentration.

2009Again,outstanding.Powerfulwines(highalcohol)butseeminglybalanced.HailinSt-Émilioncutproductionatcertainestates.

2008 SimilarconditionstotheMédoc.LateharvestintoNovember.Tinyyieldshelpedquality,whichissurprisinglygood.Starttodrink.

2007 SamepatternastheMédoc.Hugedisparityinpickingdates(uptofiveweeks).Extremelyvariable,butnothingtokeepforlong.

2006Rainandrotatharvest.Earlier-ripeningPomerolasuccess

butSt-Émilionandsatellitesvariable.2005 SameconditionsastheMédoc.Anoverallsuccess.Startto

drink.2004Merlotoftenbetterthan2003(Pomerol).GoodCabFr.2003Merlotsufferedintheheat,butexceptionalCabFr.Very

mixed.TopSt-Émilionontheplateaugood.Mostneeddrinking.

2002 Problemswithrotandripeness.Modesttogood.Drink.2001 LessrainthanMédocduringvintage.SomepowerfulMerlot,

sometimesbetterthan2000.Drinkingnow–2015.2000 SimilarconditionstoMédoc.LesskindtoMerlot,butavery

goodvintage.Olderfinevintages:98959089888582717067666461595352494745.

Redburgundy

Côted’OrCôtedeBeauneredsgenerallymaturesoonerthangranderwinesofCôtedeNuits.Earliestdrinkingdatesareforlightercommunewines–eg.Volnay,Beaune;latestforlargestwines,eg.Chambertin,Romanée.EventhebestburgundiesaremoreattractiveyoungthanequivalentredBordeaux.2012VerysmallcropoffinewinesinCôtedeNuitsafter

disastrousflowering.CôtedeBeauneevenworseaftermultiplehailstorms.Expecthighprices.

2011 Someparallelswith2007,anearlyharvestbutindifferentsummer.Butthickerskinsin2011meanmorestructuredwine.Smallcropagain.

2010Muchbetterthanexpected.Freshandclassicred,gaininginreputation.

2009Ripe,plumpreds;accessiblebefore2005s.Bewareoverripeexamples.

2008 Fine,fresh,structuredwinesfromthosewhoavoidedfungal

diseases,disasterforothers.Pickcarefully.Startdrinking.2007 Smallcropofattractive,perfumedwines.Manynowreadyto

drink.RathergoodinCôtedeBeaune.2006AnattractiveyearinCôtedeNuits(lessrain)withpowerto

developinmediumterm.CôtedeBeauneredsgoodnow.2005Bestformorethanageneration,outstandingeverywhere.Top

winesmustbekept,howevertempting.Enjoygenerics,lesservillagesnow.

2004 Lighter,somepretty,othersspoiledbyherbaceousflavours.Drinksoon.

2003Redscopedwiththeheatbetterthanthewhites.Muscular,rich.Bestoutstanding,othersshortandhot.

2002Mid-weightwinesofgreatclasswithanattractivepointoffreshness.Nowshowingtheirpaces.Nohurry.

2001 Justneededatouchmoresunforexcellence.Goodtodrinknow.

2000Gavemorepleasurethanexpected;drinkupnow.TopNuitsstillonform.

Olderfinevintages:9996(keep)95939088857871696664626159(mature).

Whiteburgundy

CôtedeBeauneWhitewinesnowrarelymadeforageingaslongastheyusedto.Topwinesshouldstillimproveforuptotenyears.2012 Tinyproductionaftercalamitousfloweringandsubsequent

hail.Decentweatherlater;whatlittlehasbeenmadecouldyetbegood.

2011Alargeharvest;finepotentialforconscientiousproducers,somefleshandgoodbalance,butitwaseasytoovercrop.

2010 Excitingwineswithgoodfruit-acidbalance,somedamagedbySeptemberstorms.MeursaultandCorton-Charlemagneare

firstclass.2009 Finecropofhealthygrapes;definitelycharming,butenough

aciditytoage?Harvestdatesvital;thosewhopickedearlydidwell.

2008 Smallcrop,ripeflavoursyethighacidity.Veryfinewines;keepthebest.2012–20.

2007Bigcrop–thosewhopickedlatedidverywell.Drinksoon.2006 Plentifulcropofcharming,aromaticwines.Drinkup.2005 Small,outstandingcropofdense,concentratedwines.Some

currentlylackcharmsogivethemtime.2004Aromatic,sometimesherbaceouswhites.Drinksoon.2003Hotvintage;allbutthebestarefallingoverfast.Mâconnais(Pouilly-Fuissé,St-Véran,Mâcon-Villages)followasimilarpattern,butdonotlastaslong:appreciatedmorefortheirfreshnessthantheirrichness.

ChablisGrandcruChablisofvintageswithbothstrengthandaciditycanagesuperblyfortenyearsormore;premierscrusproportionatelyless,butgivethemthreeyearsatleast.2012CropnotquiteastinyastheCôted’Or,buttoosmall

nonetheless.Shouldbegood,though.2011Anearlyseasonwithlargecropofattractivewines.Similarto

2002.2010HarvestedatsametimeasCôted’Or,withexcellentresults.

Finevintage:body,powerfulmineralacidity.Keepers.2009Rich,accessiblewines,lessmineralthan2007or2008.2012–

16.2008 Excellent.Smallcropofpowerful,juicywines;ageing

potential.2012–20.2007Brilliantgrandscrusandpremierscruswherenotdamaged

byhail.BasicChablisneedsdrinking.2012–17.2006Anearlyharvestofattractive,aromaticallypleasingwines.

Butdrinkup.

Beaujolais12Tinycrop,economicmisery,vineyardsabandoned.11Thirdsmasherinarow!Thebestofall?10Compactandconcentrated,veryfine.09Wonderful,thebestforyears,hasreignitedinterestinBeaujolais.08Toughgoingwithwidespreadhail.07Attractivebutwithouttheheartofareallygreatyear.05Concentratedwines.

SouthwestFrance2012Hail,frostandcoldweatheruntilmid-Junereducedthecrop,

butwhatwasmadeshowspromise.Harvestinidealconditionsmostly.

2011Good,butinitialenthusiasmtemperedbyhighalcoholandpowerfultannins(especiallyCahorsandMadiran):bestyearsince2005forwhites.

2010 Indiansummerensuredagoodcropoverall.Goodyearfordrinkingnow.

2009Reliable.Forcurrentdrinking.ThestickieswerespoiltbyNovemberrain.

2008Amoderateyear.Latesunshinejustaboutsavedtheday.2007Variable,spoiltoftenbylaterain.Sweetwhitessurprisingly

successful.2006MadiranandCahorsnowmostlyattheirpeak.Drinkupthe

rest.

TheMidi2012Adryspringandanunevenflowering.Patiencewasthekey

atvintage.Quantityisdown,butqualityisgood.2011Coolishsummer,sofresherwines,finequalityandgood

quantity.2010 Finequality;yieldslowerthanusualthankstosummer

drought.2009Coolspring;hot,drysummer.Qualityisexcellent,wines

drinkingwell.2008 Similarto2007;someelegantwines.Severehaildamagein

Faugères.2007 Somebeautifullybalancedwinesnowdrinkingwell.

NorthernRhône2012Goodvintage,someverygoodreds:strongcolourandfruit,

length,withtanninsforgoodevolution,bestatleast15years.Verygood,promisingwhites,especiallyCondrieu.

2011Mid-weightyear.SoundfruitatCrozes-Hermitage,goodatHermitage,Cornas.Côte-Rôtiearomatic,lacksalittlebody.Betterthan2008.Whitesfresh,satsifactory.

2010Wonderful.Marvellousfruitinthereds,balance,freshness,flair.Long,lifeahead.Côte-Rôtieasgoodas1978.Very

goodCondrieu,richwhites.2009 Excellent,well-packedwines.Somedeeplyflavoured,rich

Hermitagereds,veryfullCôte-Rôtie.Good,livelyCrozesandSt-Joseph.Ratherbigwhitesthatcanlive.

2008Rain;winesgainingdepthbitbybit.Topnamesbest.Good,clearwhites–willlive(Condrieu).Reds:8–12years.

2007Attractivedepth.Steadygainovertime.BestofHermitage,Côte-Rôtie,Cornas,St-Josephlifeof18years+.Goodwhites,withdepthtolivewell.

2006Bigcrop,richwines.Haveimprovedwell,especiallyCôte-Rôtie.Goodacidityinrobustwhites,headyCondrieu.

2005Mostlyexcellent,bepatientwithtannins.LongageingpotentialforHermitage,Cornas,fullestCôte-Rôtie.Whitesarefull,doingwellnow.

2004 Supplewines,Côte-Rôtieshowingwellovertime;fineredsfromtopvineyards.Superbwhitessingingnow,acomplex

maturityhasemerged.2003 Intensesun:cooked“southern”flavours.Bestredsarerich,

comingtogether,slightregainofterroir,easingoftannins.25yrs+forbest.

2002Heavyrain.Sticktobestgrowers.Hermitage,Cornasuntil2015–18.Goodwhites,especiallyCondrieu.

SouthernRhône2012Verygood.MuchbettersummerthanmostofFrance:full

reds,bettertannins,prospectsthan2011.Verypromisingallround.Dryyear,sosomevariation.Well-filled,food-friendlywhites.Goodrosés,eg.Tavel.

2011 Immediate,supplefruit;verydrinkablevintage,thoughripeningunevensovariation.Tanninsverymild:drinkquiteearly.GrenachetopatChâteauneuf.CôtesduRhôneredsverygoodvalue.

2010Manyexcellent,full-bodiedredsincludingCôtesduRhône-Villages.Smallcrop,greatbalance.Clear-fruited,richwines.Interesting,fullwhites,too.

2009Drought:baked,grainytannins.Veryripereds;CôtesduRhône/Villagesgoodnow.Soundwhites.

2008Dodgy,someimprovementovertime.Bestdrinkingokaynow;life15yearsorso.Staywithtopnames.Verygood,livelywhites.

2007Verygood:Grenache-onlywinesarebig.ExceptionalChâteauneuffromtopnames.V.gdGigondas.Drink-upCôtesduRhônes,whites.

2006Underrated;someverygoodreds.FruityChâteauneufs:moreopenthan2005,lesssweet,potentthan2007.Goodfullwhites,idealforfood.

2005Verygood.Stillaslowageingyear.Tight-knit,concentrated.20years+fortopChâteauneufs.Whiteshavedevelopedwell,

haverealbody.2004Good,butvariable.Mineral,intricateflavoursin

Châteauneuf.Gigondasbestaregrainy,profound.Startingtodrinkwellnow.Goodcomplexwhitesageingwell.

2003 Someslowlycomingtogether,asurprise.Chunky,high-octanewines,eg.Châteauneuf.Gigondasfaringokaynow.Pickbestnames,bestareas.

2002Drink-up.Simplyfruited,earlyreds,acceptablewhites.Gigondasbest.

Champagne2012DreadfulsummertoendJuly(heavyrain,fiercehail

especiallyinAube)reducedpotentialvolumetohalf-normal.SunnyAugust,fineSeptembersavedday:tinycropverygood,balancedPinotsN,Meunier.Chardso-so.

2011Yearofextremes.Lesserwineslackripeness.Best:grandcru

PinotN/Chard.2010Drought,rainandrot.OkayforChardonnay,notsogoodfor

Pinot.2009Ayearofripeness,charmandrefinedaromasthatwillgive

greatpleasureearlierthanthe2008s.SumptuousPinotNfromtheAube.

2008Clearlyoneofthetwobestvintagessince2000.Classicbalanceofacidityandripeness,arealkeeper,thoughmoreausterethanthelovely2002.

2007Notagreatyear,butsomegoodwinesfromgoodsites.2006Ripe,expressivewines,especiallyPinotN.Suppleandfine,

drinksoonwhileyouwaitforbest2002s.2005BetterforChardonnaythanPinot.Abitlackinginverve.2004Champagnesofclassicfinesse.Vintageyeardrinkingnow,

butwillhold.Olderfinevintages:020096959290898882.

TheLoire2012Verydifficultandsmallvintage–frostandwidespread

mildew.However,earlyvarieties(especiallyMelondeBourgogne,SauvBl)highquality,butrot-inducingheavyrainandhighhumidityinearlyOctoberhitlatervarieties–CabFrandCheninBl.

2011 Topsy-turvyyear.Yearoftheviticulturalist,andpickingdate.RotinMuscadet.Qualityveryvariable.Verylittlesweetwine.

2010Beautifullybalanceddrywhites;greatAnjousweetwines.Someverygoodreds,canbesuperiorto2009.Longageing.Brilliantsweetwines.

2009Generallyverygood.HighalcoholaprobleminsomeSauvBl.

2008Veryhealthygrapes,highacidity.Goodage-worthyreds,excellentdrywhites(CheninBl),sweetshitbywet

November.2007 Producercrucial.Austeredrywhites,excellentAnjousweets.

Drinkupreds.2006Onlytheconscientioussucceeded.Drywhitesfaredwell,

someage-worthyreds.Notgreatforsweetwhites.

Alsace2012AdifficultgrowingseasonuntilAugust,thenoutcamethe

sun,chasingoffdisease.Smallcropofconcentratedwines,inthestyleof2010.

2011 Straightforwardwinesforearlydrinking.2010Verysmallcrop.Excellentwinesforlongkeeping,most

naturallydry.2009GreatPinotGrandGewurz,somefinelate-harvestwines.2008Dry,crispwines:Riesagreatdelight,espfromWeinbachand

Trimbach.

2007Hotspring;cold,wetsummer;sunnyautumn:ripegrapes.Drinkup.

2006HottestrecordedJulyfollowedbycoolestAugust.Somesubtle,fineRies.

2005Ripe,well-balancedwines.Someexceptionallate-harvestwines(Gewurz).

Abel-LepitreChampDiscreetCHAMPAGNEhouse,improvingunder

BOIZELChanoineownership.FineCUVÉEIdéaleNV,impressiveBRUTVintage0608’0912.ExcellentCuvée134(blendoftwoCHARDyrs).WidelyavailableinFrance.

AbymesSavw★DYA.HillyareanrChambéry;light,mildVindeSavoieACfromJacquèregrapehasAlpinecharm.SAVOIEhasmanysuchcrus.

AckermanLorpw(dr)(sw)(sp)★→★★Majornégociant.Foundedin1811–firstSAUMURsparklingwinehouse.Alliance

Loire(eightCAVE-co-ops)ashareholder.Ackermangroup,inclRémy-PannierandMonmousseau,haswinesfromthroughoutLoire,manyfromitsownwineries.Onlylargepan-Loirenégociantstillinlocalhands.

AgenaisSWFrrpw★DYAIGPofLot-et-Garonne.Co-opsmostlydull,butsomeindependents(espifbiodynamic)worthlookingoutfor,eg.gd-valueDOMSduBoiron,LouGaillotandCampet.

AOPandIGP:what’shappeninginFranceTheEurope-wideintroductionofAOP(Appellationd’OrigineProtegée)andIGP(IndicationGéographiqueProtegée)meansthatthesetermsmaynowappearonlabels.AOCwillcontinuetobeused,butforsimplicityandbrevitythisbooknowusesIGPforallformerVDP.

Alliet,PhilippeLorw★★→★★★020405’060809’1011TopCHINONproducer;CUVÉEStoage.Best:oak-agedCoteauNoirefromsteepslope,VIEILLESVIGNESfromflatgravelandhillv’ydL’Huisserie.StrongbelieverinBARRIQUEageing.AlittleCHINONBlanc.

Aloxe-CortonBurgrw★★→★★★99’02’0305’06070809’10’1112NorthernendoftheCÔTEDEBEAUNE,famousforGRANDSCRUS(CORTON,CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE),lessinterestingatvillageorPREMIERCRUlevel.Redscanbeattractiveifnotoverextracted.Best:Follin-Arbelet,PierreAndré,Senard,TOLLOT-BEAUT.

Alquier,Jean-MichelL’docrwTalentedFAUGÈRESproducer.WhiteMARSANNE/GRENACHEBLANC.alsoSAUVLesPierresBlanchesIGP,redCUVÉESLesPremières(youngervines),MaisonJauneandage-worthyold-vineSYRAH,LesBastides.

Alsace(r)w(sw)(sp)★★→★★★★02’040506’08’0910’11

12TheshelteredeastslopeoftheVosgesMtsmakesFrance’sRhinewines:aromatic,fruity,full-strength,mostlydryandexpressiveofvariety.Sugarlevelsvarywidely:drywinesnoweasiertofind.Muchsoldbyvariety(PINOTBL,RIES,GEWURZ).Matureswell(exceptPinotBl,MUSCAT)5–10yrs;GRANDCRUevenlonger.Gd-qualityand-valueCRÉMANT.FormerlyfragilePINOTNimprovingfast(espin10)nowlookingv.drinkable.SeeVENDANGETARDIVE,SÉLECTIONDESGRAINSNOBLES.

AlsaceGrandCruAlw★★★→★★★★90’97980205060708’0910!1112ACrestrictedto51(KAEFFERKOPFaddedin2006)ofthebestnamedv’yds(approx1,600ha,800inproduction)andfournoblegrapes(RIES,PINOTGR,GEWURZ,MUSCAT),mainlydry,somesweet.New,much-neededproductionrulesincludehigherminimumripeness,banningofchaptalization.

Amiel,MasRoussrwsw★★★PioneeringandinnovativeMAURY

DOM.Severalothersnowfollowing.WarmingCÔTESDUROUSSILLONCarérades(r),Altaïr(w),vindeliqueurPlénitudefromMACCABEU.Vintageandcask-agedVDN.Prestige15yrsastar.STÉPHANEDERENONCOURT(B’X)consults.

Amirault,YannickLor★★→★★★★030405’0608’09’10’11Impeccableproduceroftop-notchBOURGUEILandST-NICOLAS-DE-BOURGEUIL,noworganic.TopCUVÉESLaPetiteCaveandLesQuartiersinBOURGUEILandMalagnesandLaMineinSt-Nicolas;allage-worthy.

Ampeau,RobertCd’OwMEURSAULTDOMwithuniquerecordforfineoldvintages.

André,PierreCd’Orw★★Soundproducer,mixofnégociantandgroweratCHCorton-André,ALOXE-CORTON;5haofv’ydsinandaroundCORTON,muchimprovedunderownershipofBallandeGroup.

Plantingtruffle-oaksisavigneron’spensionfund,andjustasspeculative.

AnjouLorpw(dr)(sw)(sp)★→★★★★BothregionandumbrellaACcoveringANJOUandSAUMUR.Manystyles:CHENINBLdrywhitesrangefromlightquafferstopotentagers;juicyreds,inclGAMAY;juicyCABFR-basedAnjouRouge;age-worthyANJOU-VILLAGES,inclCABSAUV.Alsostrong,mainlydrySAVENNIÈRES;lightlysweettolusciousCOTEAUXDULAYONCHENINBL;dryandsemi-sweetroséandsparkling.ACAnjouv.variable,butcanbeexcellentandv.gdvalue.Tinyex-VDQSVindeThouarsaisabsorbedbyACAnjou(2011).

Anjou-CoteauxdelaLoireLowsws/sw★★→★★★020305’07’0910’11Small(38ha)westernmostANJOUACforsweetCHENINBL;lessrichbutnervierthanCOTEAUXDULAYON.EspDelaunay,Fresche,Musset-Roullier,CHdePutille.

Anjou-VillagesLor★→★★★020305’060809’10’11SuperiorcentralANJOUACforreds(CABSFR/SAUV,butafewpureCabSauvoftentopwines).Tanninscanbefiercebuttopwinesaregdvalue,espDOMSdeBranchereau,Brizé,CADY,ClosdeCoulaine,PhilippeDelesvaux,Bergerie,Ogereau,CHPIERRE-BISE.Sub-ACAnjou-Villages-BrissaccoversthesamezoneasCOTEAUXDEL’AUBANCE;lookforBablut,DomdeHaute-Perche,Montigilet,Princé,Richou,Rochelles,ChdeVarière.

AppellationContrôlée(ACorAOC)/AOPGovernmentcontrolofproductionandorigin(notquality)ofmosttopFrenchwines;around45%ofthetotal.NowbeingconvertedtoAOP(Appellationd’OrigineProtegée).

AprémontSavw★★DYAOneofthebestvillagesofSAVOIEforpale,delicatewhites,mainlyfromJacquèregrapes,butrecentlygdCHARD.

HardtimesinBeaujolais,2012:800growersappliedforgovernmentfinancialaid.

ArbinSavr★★Deep-coloured,livelyredfromMONDEUSEgrapes,ratherlikeagdLoireCABSAUV.Idealaprès-ski.Drinkat1–2yrs.

ArboisJurarpw(sp)★★→★★★Variousgdandoriginalwines,realsenseofterroir;specialityisVINJAUNE.Bestproducers:StephaneTissot,JacquesPuffeney.

AriègeSWFrr★091011(12’)ImprovingIGPsouthofToulouse.★★DOMdesCoteauxd’Engraviesleadsthefieldaheadof★DomsSabarthèsandLastronques.

ArlaudCd’Or★★★FineMOREY-ST-DENISestatewithCHARMES-CHAMBERTIN,CLOSDELAROCHE,etc;energizedbynewgeneration,nowploughingbyhorse.SuperbBOURGOGNERoncevie.

Arlot,Domainedel’Cd’Orw★★★NotedexponentinCÔTEDENUITSofwhole-bunchfermentation,thoughstylemaybemodifiedundernewmanagement.Nuits-St-GeorgesClosdesForêtsStGeorgesoffershauntingfragrance,alsoVosne-RomanéeSuchotsandROMANÉE-ST-VIVANT.Rarewhitesgd,too.

Armand,ComteCd’Or★★★SoleownerofexceptionalCLOSdesEpeneauxinPOMMARD,plusv’ydsinAUXEYandVOLNAY.Ontopformsince1999.Biodynamic.

AubeChampSouthernvyds,akaCôtedesBar.V.gdPINOTNin09andtiny12.

Auxey-DuressesCd’Orw★★→★★★99’02’0305’06070809’10’11CÔTEDEBEAUNEvillagetuckedawayoutofsight.Redsmorefragrantandlessrusticthanbefore,attractivemineralwhites.Best:(r)COMTEARMAND,HLatour,MAISONLEROY,Prunier;(w)Lafouge,MaisonLeroy(LesBoutonniers).

AveyronSWFrrpw★IGPDYAharbouringsomeNATURAL

winemakers(eg.★★NicolasCarmarans,PatrickRols)andsome“lost”localgrapevarieties(eg.NégretdeBanhars).Moreconventional:★DOMSBertauandPleyjean.

AvizeChampFineCôtedesBlancsCHARDvillage.V.gdgrowers’wines.

AÿChampReveredPINOTNvillageofCHAMPAGNE:powerfulwines,oftenagedinoak.Gdmixofmerchantsandgrowers’wines.

AyalaChampspRevitalizedAŸCHAMPAGNEhouse,BOLLINGER-owned.FineBRUTNatureZÉRODosage,v.gdRosé.ExcellentPrestigePerled’Ayala(040608’0912’).

BacheletBurgrw★★→★★★★WidespreadfamilynameinBurgundy.ExcellentwhitesfromB-Monnot(MARANGES),Jean-ClaudeB(ST-AUBIN),B-Ramonet(CHASSAGNE);atotherendoftheCôted’OrDenisBacheletmakesheadyGEVREY-CHAMBERTIN.

BandolProvrp(w)★★★969798990001020304050607

0809101112CompactcoastalAC;PROVENCE’sfinest.Barrel-agedredsofenormouspotential.MOURVÈDREthekey,withGRENACHEandCINSAULT;elegantroséfromyoungvines,andadropofwhitefromCLAIRETTE,UGNIBLANCandoccasionallySAUVBL.Starsincl:DOMSdelaLaidière,LafranVeyrolles,LaSuffrène,TEMPIER,Pibarnon,MasdelaRouvière,LaBégude,LaBastideBlanche.

BanyulsRoussbrsw★★→★★★FabulousVDN,mainlyGRENACHE(BanyulsGRANDCRU,aged2yrs+).NewervintagestyleresemblesRubyPort;moreoriginalaretraditionalRANCIOs,agedforyrs.ThinkfineoldTawnyPort,orevenMadeira.Best:DOMSduMasBlanc(★★★),laRectorie(★★★),VialMagnères,CoumedelMas(★★),laTourVieille(★★★).SeealsoMAURY.

BarriqueTheB’X(andCognac)termforanoakbarrelholding225litres.Usedglobally,buttheglobalmaniaforexcessivenewoak

isnowmercifullyfading.Oakdominatingfruitnowlooksdated.BarsacSautwsw★★→★★★★83’86’88’89’90’959697’

9899’01’0203’05’07’09’10’11’NeighbourofSAUTERNESwithsimilarsuperbbotrytizedwinesfromlower-lyinglimestonesoil;fresher,lesspowerful,withmorefinesse.Repayslongageing.Top:CLIMENS,COUTET,DOISY-DAËNE,DOISY-VÉDRINES,NAIRAC.

Barthod,GhislaineCd’Or★★★→★★★★ImpressiverangeofarchetypalCHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY.Marvellouspoiseanddelicacy,yetdepthandconcentration.NinePREMIERSCRUS,inclLesCras,Fuées,Beauxbruns.

Barton&GuestierB’xB’XnégociantnowpartofthegroupCastel(2010).

Bâtard-MontrachetCd’Ow★★★★99’0002’04’05’0607’08’09’10111212haGRANDCRUdownslopefromLEMONTRACHETitself.Powerful,richwines,occasionallyatouch

chunky.AlsoworthysiblingsBienvenues-B-MandCriotsB-M.Seekout:Bachelet-Monnot,BOILLOT,CARILLON,GAGNARD,FAIVELEY,LATOUR,DOMLEFLAIVE,MOREY,Pernot,Ramonet,SAUZET.

Baudry,DomaineBernardLorpw★★→★★★0305060809’10’1130ha.TopCHINONacrosstherange,fromCHENINBL-basedwhitestoCABFR-basedrosésandCHINONCUVÉESofred–fromdeliciousLesGrangestostructuredLesGrézeaux,ClosGuillotandCroixBoissées.SonMatthieunowincharge.Noweedkillers.

Baudry-DutourLorpw★★→★★★0305’060809’10’11Mergerin2003ofDOMSdelaPerrièreanddelaRoncée.CHINON’slargestproducer,inclCHXdeStLouandandLaGrille(bought2009).Reliablequality:light,early-drinkingtoage-worthyreds.ModernwineriesatPanzoultandlaGrille.ScrewcappedChinonBl.

Baumard,DomainedesLorpwswsp★★→★★★0305’0607’(sw)08091011ControversialfamilyproducerofANJOUwine,espCHENINBL-basedwhites,inclSAVENNIÈRES(ClosStYves,ClosduPapillon),QUARTSDECHAUME,ClosSteCatherine.Proponentofhigh-yieldingvigneslargesandcryoextraction(freezinggrapestoconcentratesugarsforsweetwine).ChallengingQuartsdeChaumeGrandCruinFrance’sSupremeCourt.Largedeclarationof2012QuartsdeChaume.

2012wasunfairintheLoire:wealthySancerrehadnear-normalquantity,strugglingMuscadethardlyanything.

Baux-en-Provence,LesProvrpw★★→★★★0506070809101112V’ydsonlowerslopesofdramaticbauxiteoutcropofAlpilles,toppedbyvillageofLesBaux.WhitemainlyfromCLAIRETTE,GRENACHE,Rolle,ROUSSANNE.RedsCABSAUV,SYRAH,GRENACHE.Mostv’ydsorganic.TRÉVALLONbestbyfar:

CabSauv/SYRAHblend(IGPforlackofGRENACHE).AlsoMasdelaDame,DOMHauvette,SteBerthe,CHRomanin.

BéarnSWFrrpw★→★★r091011(12’)(wp)DYA.AOPinclratherdullrosésfromMADIRANgrowers.Whitesdull,too,butgoodredsfrom★★DOMLapeyre/GuilhémasandsomeJURANÇONgrowers.Gdco-opatBellocq.

Beaujolaisr(p)(w)★DYA.ThemostbasicappellationofthehugeBeaujolaisregion,sufferingeconomically.CannowberebrandedasCOTEAUXBOURGUIGNONS.SomeBeaujolaisfromthehillscanbeexcellent.

BeaujolaisPrimeur/NouveauBeaujTheBEAUJOLAISofthenewvintage,madeinahurry(oftenonlyfourtofivedays’fermenting)forreleaseatmidnightonthethirdWednesdayinNov.Ideallysoft,pungent,fruityandtempting;toooftencrude,sharp,alcoholic.Moreofaneventthanadrink.

Beaujolais-VillagesBeaujr★★09’10’11’12Themiddle

categorybetweenstraightBEAUJOLAISandthetennamedcrus,suchasMOULIN-À-VENT.BestlocationsaroundBeaujeuandLantigné,worthwaitingfor.

Beaumes-de-VeniseSRhôr(p)(w)br★★(r)07’0809’10’1112(MUSCAT)DYA.Since1956VDNMuscat,fromsoutheastCÔTESDURHÔNE,favouritelocalapéritif,canage:grapeyaromas,honeyed,peach/apricotflavours,canbeelegant,eg.DOMsBeaumalric,Bernardins(traditional),Durban(rich),JABOULET,Pigeade(v.gd),VIDAL-FLEURY,co-op.Gdwithmelon,richfish,softcheese,chocolate.Punchy,grainy,high-altitudereds,bestinsunnyyrs.(CHRedortier,domsCassan,deFenouillet,Durban,St-Amant,FermeSaintMartin.)Leavefor2–3yrs.Simplewhites(somedryMUSCAT,VIOGNIER),uptemporosésareCôtesduRhône.

BeaumontdesCrayèresChampspCôted’Épernayco-opmakingexcellentPINOTMEUNIER-basedGrandeRésNVandv.fineFleur

dePrestige980204.ExceptionalCHARD-ledCUVÉENostalgie02’06.FleurdeRosé02040506.

BeauneCd’Or(w)★★★02’0305’070809’10’1112HistoricwinecapitalofBurgundyandhometomanymerchants:BOUCHARD,CHAMPY,CHANSON,DROUHIN,JADOT,LATOUR,RemoissenetaswellasHOSPICESDEBEAUNE.NoGRANDCRUv’ydsbutsomegraceful,perfumedredsfromPREMIERCRU,eg.Bressandes,Cras,Teurons,VignesFranches;morepowerfromGrèves,andanincreasingamountofwhite,ofwhichDrouhin’sCLOSDESMOUCHESstandsout.

Becker,CavesJAlrw★→★★Organicestate,progressivelybiodynamic.Stylish,well-balancedwines,inclexceptionalGRANDCRUFroehninGEWURZandRIES0608’10.

BelletProvrpw★★ThewineofNice;tinyAC;v’ydswithincityboundary,butoftenignoredthere.WhitefromRollegrapeisbest,withunexpectedageingpotential.BraquetandFolleNoire

forlightredforwhichDYA.Fewproducers:CHdeBelletisoldest;alsoLesCoteauxdeBellet,CLOSStVincent,DOMdelaSource.

Bellivière,DomainedeLorwsw★★→★★★0305’070809’10’11Spreadout13habiodynamicDOMrunbyChristineandEricNicolas:preciseCHENINBLinJASNIÈRESandCOTEAUXDULOIRandpepperyPineaud’Aunis.

BergeracSWFrrpwdrsw★→★★★05’0607’(sw)08091011(12’)UpstreamfromB’X;samegrapes,butafractionoftheB’xprice.SeerecommendedgrowersinMONBAZILLAC,MONTRAVEL,PÉCHARMANT,ROSETTE,SAUSSIGNAC.Also:★★★CLOSdesVerdots,TourdesGendres,DOMSJaubertie,JoncBlanc,LesMarnières,MonastierlaTour(recentlysold);★★CHXFontenelles,Grinou.

Bertrand,GérardL’docrpw★★Energeticex-ruggerplayerandnowoneofbiggestv’ydownersintheMIDI;Villemajouin

CORBIÈREScruBoutenac,Laville-BertouinMINERVOIS-LALIVINIÈRE,l’AigleinLIMOUX,IGPPaysd’OcCigalus,andlaSauvageonneinTerrassesduLarzac.FlagshipChl’HospitaletinLACLAPE.

BesseratdeBellefonChampspÉpernay;specializesingentlysparklingCHAMPAGNES(oldCRÉMANTstyle).PartofLANSON-BCCgroup.Respectablequality,decentvalue.

Beyer,LéonAlrw★★→★★★V.fine,intense,drywinesoftenneeding10yrs+bottleage.SuperbRIESComtesd’Eguisheim,butnomentiononlabelofitsv’yd–GRANDCRUPFERSIGBERG.Pure,drywinesforgreatcuisine.NowfinerPINOTNS(10’).

Bichot,MaisonAlbertBurgrw★★→★★★Nowaseriousplayerassignificantv’yd-owneraswellasmerchant.BestwinesfromownDOMS,LONG-DEPAQUIT(CHABLIS),ClosFrantin(NUITS)andPavilion(BEAUNE).Canbeoaky,butworthfollowing.

Bienvenues-Bâtard-MontrachetCd’O★★★→★★★★02’04

05060708091112Fractionallylighterandearlier-maturingversionofBâtard,withaccessiblecreamytexture.BestfromBACHELET-Monnot,CARILLON,LEFLAIVE,Ramonet.

Billecart-SalmonChampFamilyhousemakingbeautiful,long-livedwines,vintageCUVÉESfermentedinwood.SuperbClosSt-HilaireBlancdeNoirs(96’98’99),NFBillecart(98990002’),topBLANCDEBLANCS(9900)andBRUT04andExtraBrut★★★NV.NewCuvéeSousBois.ExquisiteElizabethSalmonRosé99’02.

Bize,SimonCd’Orw★★→★★★KeyproducerinSAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNEwithwiderangeofPREMIERCRUv’yds,espVergelesses;alsoexciting,gd-valueBOURGOGNE(rw).Topwine:LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN.

BlagnyCd’Or★★→★★★99’02’03’05’070809’10’1112OnhilladjoiningMEURSAULT.AustereredsnowoutoffashionasgrowersreplantwithCHARDtomakeMEURSAULT-Blagny.

Bestredv’yds:PiècesousleBois,SousleDosd’Ane,LaJeunelotte.Bestgrowers(r):Matrot,MarteletdeCherisey.

BlancdeBlancsAnywhitewinemadefromwhitegrapesonly,espCHAMPAGNE.Indicationofstyle,notofquality.

BlancdeNoirsWhite(orslightlypinkor“blush”)winefromredgrapes,espCHAMPAGNE.Generallyrich,evenfour-square,instyle.

Blanck,Paul&FilsAlrw★★→★★★GroweratKientzheimproducinghugerangeofwines.Finestfrom6haGRANDCRUFurstentum(RIES,GEWURZ,PINOTGR)andgrandcruSCHLOSSBERG(greatRies02’0810)AlsogdPINOTBL.

BlanquettedeLimouxL’docwsp★★Gd-value,creamyfizzfromcoolerhillyareasouthwestofCarcassonne;olderhistorythanCHAMPAGNE.BaseofMauzacmuchimprovedbyCHARD,CHENINBLand,morerecently,PINOTN,moreelegantACCRÉMANTdeLimoux.Largeco-opwithSieurd’Arqueslabel.

AlsoRives-Blanques,Antech,Laurens,Fourn.BlayeB’xr★→★★05’060809’10’11Designationfortop,

concentratedreds(loweryields,etc.)fromwhatusedtobePremièresCôtesdeBlaye,nownewAC(2008)BLAYE-CÔTESDEB’X.

Blaye-CôtesdeBordeauxB’xrw★→★★05’060809’10’11MainlyredACeastoftheGirondewithalittledrywhite.FormerlyPremièresCôtesdeBlayebutrenamedin2008.Greatlyimprovedquality.BestCHX:BelAirlaRoyère,Cantinot,Gigault(CuvéeViva),Haut-Bertinerie,Haut-Colombier,Haut-Grelot,Jonqueyres,Monconseil-Gazin,Mondésir-Gazin,Montfollet,RolandlaGarde,Segonzac,desTourtes.

BoillotCd’OrwInterconnectedBurgundygrowers.LookforJean-Marc(POMMARD)★★★forfineoakyredsandwhites,Henri(DOMandmerchantinMEURSAULT),concentratedwhitesand

modernreds★★→★★★★,Louis(Chambolle,marriedtoGHISLAINEBARTHOD)★★★andhisbrotherPierre(GEVREY)★★→★★★.

Boisset,Jean-ClaudeBurgrwUltra-successfulgroupcreatedoverlast50yrs.Ownwinesandv’ydsDOMDELAVOUGERAIEexcellent.Ownsrangeofotherbusinesses,latestVINCENTGIRARDINbrand.ProjectsinCanada,California,Chile,UruguaylookedafterbysonJean-Charles,marriedtoGinaGALLOofeponymousUSgiant.

BoizelChampV.gdmatureBLANCDEBLANCSNVandprestigeJoyaudeFrance(02’0408),JoyauRosé(02’040608).AlsoGrandVintageBrut(02’04060809)andCUVÉESousBois.Finequality,easyprices.

BollingerChampGreatclassicCHAMPAGNEhouse,onarollinrecentvintages(vizGrandeAnnée95’97000204).SuperbGARosé02.Luxurywines:RD(96’0204),VIEILLESVIGNES

Françaises(02)fromungraftedPINOTNvines,LaCôteauxEnfants,AŸ(02’0409’).SeealsoLANGLOIS-CH.

BonneauduMartray,DomaineCd’Orw(r)★★(w)★★★★Scintillating,mineralCORTON-CHARLEMAGNEtoagefromhyper-meticulousproducerwithtopholdingintheheartoftheAC.RedCORTONfinebutpricey.

Bonnes-MaresCd’Or★★★→★★★★90’91939596’9899’0002’0305’06070809’10’1112GRANDCRU(15ha)betweenCHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNYandMOREY-ST-DENIS.Sturdy,long-livedwines,lessfragrantthanMUSIGNY.Best:BRUNOCLAIR,Drouhin-Laroze,DUJAC,Groffier,JADOT,ROUMIER,DEVOGÜÉ,VOUGERAIE.

BonnezeauxLowsw★★★→★★★★89’90’95’96’97’0203’05’07’0910’11Wonderfullyrich,almosteverlastingCHENINBLfromtopsouth-facingsiteinCOTEAUXDULAYON.NowlessrigorousthanQUARTSDECHAUME.Esp:CHXdeFesles,

deVarière,DOMSlesGrandesVignes,duPetitVal.Bordeaux(B’x)r(p)w★→★★0809’10’Catch-allACfor

genericB’x(nearlyhalfregion’sproduction).Mixedquality.Mostbrandsareinthiscategory.

BordeauxSupérieurB’xr★→★★05’0809’10’11Superiordenominationtoabove.Higherminalcohol,loweryieldandlongerageing.Mainlybottledattheproperty.2011smore“classic”thanthesucculent09sandpowerful10s.

Borie-ManouxB’xAdmirableB’Xshipper,CH-owner.Chxincl:BATAILLEY,BEAU-SITE,CroixduCasse,DOMDEL’EGLISE,HAUT-BAGES-MONPELOU,TROTTEVIEILLE.

BouchardPère&FilsBurgrw★★→★★★★Hugev’ydowner–largestinCÔTED’OR?WhitesespstronginMEURSAULTandCHEVALIER-MONTRACHET.FlagshipredisBEAUNEGrèves,VignedeL’EnfantJésus.Basicwineslessgood.PartofHENRIOTBurgundianinterestswithWILLIAMFÈVRE(CHABLIS)andVilla

Ponciago(BEAUJOLAIS).Bouches-du-RhôneProvrpw★IGPfromMarseilleenvirons.

Simple,fruit-filledredsfromsouthernvarieties,plusCABSAUV,SYRAHandMERLOT.

Bourgeois,HenriLorw★★→★★★05060708101112Leading,dynamicSANCERREgrower/merchant.ImpressiverangeinclPOUILLY-FUMÉ,MENETOU-SALON,QUINCY,COTEAUXDUGIENNOIS,CHÂTEAUMEILLANTandIGPPetitBourgeois.Topwines:MDdeBourgeois,LaBourgeoise(rw),Jadis,Sancerred’Antan.AlsoClosHenri(rw)inMarlborough,NZ.

BourgogneBurgr(p)w★★(r)05’09’101112(w)09’10’1112Ground-floorACforBurgundy,rangingfrommass-producedtobargainbeautiesfromfringesofCÔTED’ORvillages,toptipforvalue.Sometimescomeswithsubregionattached,eg.CÔTECHALONNAISE,HautesCôtesorlocalwould-beappellation,Chitry,Tonnerre,VÉZELAY,etc.UsuallyPINOTN(r)orCHARD

(w).CanalsobefromdeclassifiedBEAUJOLAIScrusbutmustnowspecifyBourgogneGAMAYonlabel.

BourgogneGrandOrdinaireBurgSeeCOTEAUXBOURGUIGNONS.BourgognePasse-Tout-GrainsBurgr(p)★Age1–2yrs.Notjust

anyoldgrapebutaBurgundianmixofPINOTN(morethan30%)andGAMAY.CanbefunfromCÔTED’ORDOMSeg.Chevillon,Clavelier,LAFARGE,Rouget.

BourgueilLor(p)★★→★★★(★)96’020305’060809’10’11Burly,full-flavouredTOURAINEreds;big,fragrantrosésbasedonCABFR.Gdvintagescanage40yrs+.EspAMIRAULT,Audebert,DOMSdelaButte,laChevalerie,Courant,Druet,Gambier,Herlin,LaméDelisleBoucard,Minière,NauFrères.SeeST-NICOLAS-DE-BOURGUEIL.

Bouvet-LadubayLo★→★★★MajorsparklingSAUMURhouse,ownedbyUnitedBreweries(India).Barrel-fermentedCUVÉETrésor(pw)best.StillwinesmainlyfromANJOU-Saumur.Hosts

annualJournéesNationalesduLivreetduVin.

Burgundy’spoxThepox,orpremox(bothshortforprematureoxidation),hasbecomeamajortalkingpointforthewhitewinesofBurgundy,thougharguablyallwhitewinesaretosomeextentaffected.Itisatitsworstforvintagesbetween1995and2002butsomesubsequentvintagesarealsoaffected.Thereareclearlycomplex,multiplecauses,inclpoorcorks;inadequatesulphurprotection;overprotectivevinificationprocessesthatleavetheoxidasesbehindforlater;bottlingprocessesallowingtoomuchdissolvedoxygeninthewine;ripergrapeswithloweracidity.Manyofthesefactorsderivefromthedesiretomakepurewinesattheexpenseofthephenolicsthatprovideprotection.Solutionsarebeingfound,butingeneralwecannolongercountonwhiteburgundytoreachitsthrillingpeakat12–15yrs

old.

BouzereauCd’Orw★★→★★★FamilyinMEURSAULT,gdwhitesatgdpricesandimprovingreds.Jean-Baptiste(sonofMichelB)andVincentBarethetwobest.

BouzeronBurgw★★CÔTECHALONNAISEAC(since1998)forALIGOTÉ,withstricterrulesandgreaterpotentialthanstraightBOURGOGNEAC.BestfromA&PdeVillaine.

BouzyRougeChampr★★★9095969799020912StillredoffamousPINOTNvillage.Likev.lightburgundy,butcanlastwellinsunnyvintages.Generally,though,overpricedandunderflavoured.

Brocard,J-MChabw★★→★★★FatherJean-MarccreateddynamicbusinesswithACsinandaroundCHABLIS.SonJulienhasintroducedbiodynamicprinciples.Successfulallianceof

commerceandquality.TryDomSteClaire.BrouillyBeaujr★★05’09’10’11’12Biggestofthetencrusof

BEAUJOLAIS:fruity,round,refreshingwine,canage3–4yrs.Topgrowers:CHXdelaChaize,dePierreux;Dubost,Martray,Michaud,Piron.

Brumont,AlainSWFr★★★rwArdentdefenderofbeefyMADIRANstyle,though★Torusismorefriendly.OakyredsLeTyre,CHXMONTUS,BOUSCASSÉ,mostlypureTANNAT,needlongkeeping.★IGPs(eg.100%GROSMANSENG,Tannat/CABblends)gdforearlydrinking.

BrutChampTermforthedryclassicwinesofCHAMPAGNE.Mosthouseshavereduceddosage(adjustmentofsweetness)inrecentyrs.

BrutUltra/ZéroTermforbone-drywines(nodosage)inCHAMPAGNE–alsoknownasBrutNature–backinfashionandimproved,bestinripeyrs.

BugeySavrpwsp★→★★DYAVDQSforlightsparkling,still,orhalf-sparklingwinesfromRoussette(orAltesse)andCHARD(gd).BestfromMontagnieu;alsoRosédeCerdon,mainlyGAMAY.

Burguet,AlainCd’Or★★→★★★CompactVIGNERONforoutsizeGEVREY-CHAMBERTIN,espMesFavorites.SonsEricandJean-Lucnowincharge.

BuxyBurgwVillageinACMONTAGNYwithgdco-opforCHARDandPINOTN.

BuzetSWFrr(p)(w)★★08091011(12’)Dominantwould-bemonopolistco-opcannotapproachquirky,biodynamic,independent★★★DOMduPech,normoretraditional★★CHXduFrandat,deSallesforqualityinthisone-timeB’Xsatellite.

CabardèsL’docr★→★★0506070809101112B’XCABandMERLOTmeetMIDISYRAHandGRENACHEfororiginalblends,

60%maxB’xgrapes,40%minMidi.BestisDOMdeCabrolwithVindel’Est,Vind’Ouest;alsoJouclary,FontJuvénal,Cazaban.CHPennautierislargest.

Cabernetd’AnjouLops/sw★→★★SweetishDEMI-SEC,oftenderided,roséenjoyingrenaissance,espstronglocaldemand.Age-worthyoldvintages(★★★)stunningbutrarenowDYA.CHPIERRE-BISE;DOMSdeBablut,CADY,ClaudeNell,lesGrandesVignes,Ogereau,deSauveroy,Varière.

CabrièresL’doc(r)p★★DYA.Traditionallyfull-bodiedrosé;alsosatisfyingreds,mostlyfromenergeticvillageco-op.V’ydsonschisthillsidesnrPicdeVissou.

Cadillac-CôtesdeBordeauxB’xr★→★★05’0809’10’11Long,narrow,hillyzoneontherightbankoftheGaronneoppositeGRAVES.FormerlyPremièresCôtesdeBordeauxbutrenamedfrom2008vintage.Medium-bodied,freshreds.Qualityextremelyvaried.Best:AliosdeSte-Marie,Carignan,Carsin,

ClosChaumont,ClosSte-Anne,LeDoyenné,Grand-Mouëys,Lezongars,Mont-Pérat,Plaisance,PuyBardens,REYNONandSuau.

Cady,DomaineLorpswsp★★→★★★030405’07’(sw)0910’11’ExcellentANJOU4th-generationfamilygrowerofeverythingfromdrywhitesandoff-dryroséstolusciouslysweetCOTEAUXDULAYONandCHAUME.Sweetwinesarestrongestsuit.SonAlexandreincreasinglyincharge.

CahorsSWFrr★★→★★★★01’02‘0405’06080910(11)(12’)MALBEC(atleast70%)theonlyconstantfactorinthismultifaceted,all-redAOP.Lighter,fruitierfrom★★CHLatuc,ClosCoutale,DOMBoliva.Biggerfrom★★chxArmandière,LaCoustarelle,CrozedePys,Gaudou,domsdelaBérengeraie,duGarinet,Paillas,Pinéraie,LesRigalets,Savarines(biodynamic).Traditional,requiringageing:★★★ClosdeGamot(VignesCentenaires,★★★★ClosStJean),Clos

Triguedina.Modern:★★★chxDUCÈDRE,Closd’UnJour,LesCroisille,Lamartine,LaPérié,LaReyne,★★LaCaminade,Eugénie.Cult★★★★DomCosse-Maisonneuvestraddlestherange.Youshouldexploreit.

Cailloux,LesSRhôr(w)★★★78’79’81’85’89’9095’96’98’9900’0103’04’05’06’07’09’10’11’12’18haCHÂTEAUNEUFDOM;stylish,floralGRENACHE,gd-value,eleganthandmadereds.V.consistent,genuine.SpecialwineCentenaire,witholdestGrenache1889,pureandnoble.AlsoDomAndréBrunel(espCÔTESDURHÔNErEst-Ouest)anddecentFéraud-BrunelCôtesduRhônemerchantrange.

CairanneSRhôrpw★★→★★★05’06’07’09’10’1112’Easilybestofthe18CÔTESDURHÔNE-VILLAGES:winesofcharacter,bristlingdarkfruits,smokyherbsandtannins,espDOMSAlary,Ameillaud,Armand,Brusset,Escaravailles,Féraud-Brunel,Grosset,HautesCances(traditional),OratoireSt

Martin(classy),Présidente,Rabasse-Charavin,Richaud(greatfruit),FamillePerrin.Food-suited,gd-depthwhites.

Canard-DuchêneChampHouseownedbyALAINTHIÉNOT.BRUTVintage0608’0912.V.fineCuvéeLéonie★★★butbasicwinestilldisappointing.

Canon-FronsacB’xr★★→★★★00’010305’060809’10’11SmallenclavewithinFRONSAC,otherwisesamewines.Bestarerich,fullandfinelystructured.TryCHXBarrabaque,CanonPécresse,CassagneHaut-CanonlaTruffière,laFleurCailleau,DUGABY,Grand-Renouil,Haut-Mazeris,MOULINPEY-LABRIE,Pavillon,VraiCanonBouché.

Carillon,LouisCd’Ow★★★ClassicPULIGNYproducer,nowseparatedbetweenbrothersJacquesandFrançois.Tooearlytoseestylisticdifferences,butexcellentquality-priceratioshouldcontinuewithboth.LookoutforPREMIERSCRUSCombettes,Perrières,Referts.

CassisProv(r)(p)w★★DYA.FashionablepleasureporteastofMarseillewithtraditionalreputationfordrywhitesbasedonCLAIRETTEandMARSANNE.Deliciouswithbouillabaisse,butexpensive(eg.DOMlaFermeBlanche,CLOSSteMagdeleine,Paternel,Fontcreuse).Growersfightingrearguardactionwithpropertydevelopers.

Castillon-CôtesdeBordeauxB’xr★★→★★★00’0102030405’0809’10’11PreviouslyCôtesdeCastillon,renamed2008.FlourishingregioneastofST-ÉMILION;similarwines,usuallylessplump,ageingpotential;recentinvestment.Top:DOMDEL’A,CHXd’Aiguilhe,Ampélia,CapdeFAUGÈRES,LaClarière-Laithwaite,CLOSl’Église,ClosLesLunelles,ClosPuyArnaud,CôteMontpezat,JoaninBécot,Montlandrie,Poupille,Robin,Verniotte,Veyry,VieuxCHChampsdeMars.

CathiardCd’Or★★★SylvainCathiardhasproducedbrilliant,perfumedVOSNE-ROMANÉE,espMalconsorts,andNUITS-ST-

GEORGES,espMurgers,since1990s.ExpectmoreofthesamewithsonSébastiennowincharge.

CaveCellar,oranywineestablishment.CavecoopérativeWine-growers’co-opwinery;overhalfofall

Frenchproduction.Oftenwell-run,well-equipped,andwinesgdvalueformoney,butmanydisappearingintheeconomiccrisis.

Cazes,DomaineRoussrpwsw★★→★★★Largeorganicproducer.IGPpioneer,withMERLOTandCABSAUV,espforbrandsLeCanonduMaréchalandLeCrédo,alsoCÔTESDUROUSSILLON-VILLAGES,EgoandAlter,Collioure,deliciousagedRIVESALTES,CuvéeAiméCazes.NowpartofAdvini,butstillfamily-run.Excellentvalue.

CépageGrapevariety.SeeGrapevarieties.CéronsB’xwsw★★01’0203’05’0709’10’11Almost

abandonedsweetACnexttoSAUTERNES.Lessintensewines,eg.CHXdeCérons,CHANTEGRIVE,GrandEnclos.

Chablisw★★→★★★05’0607’08’0910’1112LeanbutlovelynorthernburgundyCHARDsofamousthatithasbeenwidelyimitatedroundtheworld.Mydefaultwhite.Mostlyunoaked.Buttoomuchismass-produced,early-bottled,anonymousChard.

ChablisGrandCruChabw★★★→★★★★95’96’9900’02’05’0607’08’0910’11’12Smallblockofv’ydsonsteepslopeonnorthbankofriverSerein.TherichestCHABLIS,comparabletofineCÔTEDEBEAUNEwhites.Needsageformineralityandindividualstyletodevelop.V’yds:Blanchots,Bougros,CLOS,Grenouilles,Preuses,Valmur,Vaudésir(plusbrandLaMoutonne).ClosandVaudésirbest.

Chablisienne,LaChabrw★★→★★★Majorplayer–manyown-labelCHABLISaresuppliedbythisdynamicco-op.Soundwinesacrossthewholerange;topisGRANDCRUCHGrenouilles.

ChablisPremierCruChabw★★★00’02’05’07’08’0910’

11’12Bettersitesontherollinghillsides;morewhite-flowercharacteronsouthbankofriverSerein(Vaillons,Montmains,CôtedeLéchet),yellowfruitonnorthbank(Fourchaume,MontdeMilieu,MontéedeTonnerre).WellworthpremiumoverstraightCHABLIS.

ChablisThereisnobetterexpressionoftheall-conqueringCHARDthanthefullbuttense,limpidbutstonywinesitmakesontheheavylimestonesoilsofCHABLIS.Chablisterroirdividesintothreequalitylevels(four,inclPETITCHABLIS)withgreatconsistency.Bestmakersuselittleornonewoaktomasktheprecisedefinitionofvarietyandterroir:Barat,Bessin★,Billaud-Simon★,BOUCHARDPÈRE&FILS,Boudin★,J-MBROCARD,JCollet★,DDampt,R/VDAUVISSAT★,JDauvissat,B,DetEandJDefaix,Droin,DROUHIN★,Duplessis,JEANDURUP,FÈVRE

★,Geoffroy,J-PGrossot★,LAROCHE,LONG-DEPAQUIT,DOMdesMalandes,LMichel,ChristianMOREAU★,Picq★,Pinson,RAVENEAU★,GRobin★,Servin,Tribut,Vocoret.Simple,unqualified“Chablis”maybethin;bestisPREMIERCRUorGRANDCRU.Theco-op,LACHABLISIENNE,hashighstandards(espGrenouille★)andmanydifferentlabels(itmakesoneineverythreebottles).(★=outstanding.)

ChambertinCd’Or★★★★888990’939596’9899’0102’0305’06070809’10’1112’13ha(or28hainclCHAMBERTIN-CLOSDEBÈZE)ofBurgundy’smostimperiouswine;amazinglydense,sumptuous,long-livedandexpensive.Noteverybodyuptostandard,buttryfromBOUCHARDPÈRE&FILS,Charlopin,Damoy,DROUHIN,DOMLEROY,MORTET,PRIEUR,Rémy,ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET,ROUSSEAU,TRAPET.

Chambertin-ClosdeBèzeCd’Or★★★★888990’939596’

9899’0102’0305’06070809’10’1112’MaybesoldunderthenameofneighbouringCHAMBERTIN.Splendidwines,maybemoreaccessibleinyouth.Best:CLAIR,Damoy,DROUHIN,Drouhin-Laroze,FAIVELEY,Groffier,JADOT,Prieuré-Roch,ROUSSEAU.

Chambolle-MusignyCd’Or★★★→★★★★90’9395’96’9899’02’0305’070809’10’1112’TheepitomeofeleganceintheCÔTEDENUITS:lookforfragranceandsilkytexturefromBONNES-MARES,MUSIGNY,Amoureuses,Charmes,Cras,Fuées.BARTHOD,MUGNIER,ROUMIER,DEVOGÜÉthesuperstarsbuttryalsoAmiot-Servelle,Bertheau,Digioia-Royer,DROUHIN,Felletig,Groffier,RION.

ChampagneSparklingwinesofPINOTSNandMEUNIERand/orCHARD,andregion(34,000ha,150kmeastofParis);madebyméthodetraditionnelle.Bubblesfromelsewhere,howevergd,cannotbeChampagne.

ChampagneleMesnilChampTop-flightco-opingreatestGRANDCRUCHARDvillage.ExceptionalCUVÉESublime(0408’11’12)fromfinestsites.Realvalue.

Champs-Fleuris,DomainedesLorpwsw★★→★★★05’060809’1011DynamicDOMwithv.gdSAUMURBlanc;SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY,incljuicy,screwcappedAudace;fineCRÉMANT.Whenvintagewarrants,succulentCOTEAUXDESAUMUR:CuvéeSarah.

ChampyPère&CieBurgrw★★→★★★Ancientnégocianthouse(1720)revitalizedbyMeurgeyfamily.OwnbiodynamicDOMof27ha,stronginBEAUNEandaroundCORTON,inclformerDomLaleure-Piot.Since2011alsocontrolsformerDomLouisBOILLOTinclClosdelaChapelleMonopoleVolnay.

ChandondeBriailles,DomaineCd’Orw★★→★★★Unfashionablebutfinelightreds,espPernand-VergelessesÎledeVergelessesandCortonLesBressandes.Biodynamic

farming,lotsofstems,andnonewoakdefinethestyle.ChansonPère&FilsBurgrw★→★★★Anoldnamein

BEAUNE,butonetowatchnowforquality,andfairpricing.TryanyofitsBeaunes,redorwhite,espClosdesFèves(r)andClosdesMouches(w).AlsogreatCORTON-Vergennes(w).

Champagnegrowerstowatchin2014FrancisBoulardetFilleMassifSt-Thierrygrowermakingv.gdmulti-vintageCUVÉEPetraeaandsuperball-CHARDLesRachais(02★★★★★040608’).ClaudeCazalsExcitingExtra-BrutBLANCDEBLANCS(9902’04)andexceptionalCLOSCazals(96★★★★990204).RichardCheurlinOneofbestgrower-winemakersoftheAUBE.RichbutbalancedCarted’Orandvintage-datedCuvéeJeanne(02040506).NewCuvéeCoccinelle&Papillon,NATURALand

chemical-free.BenoîtLahayeFineorganicBOUZYgrower,precise,elegantwines:excellentEssentielNVBRUT,BLANCDENOIRSand0608’09vintagesforlongageing.Jean-LucLallementExceptionalVerzenaygrowermakingmuscularyetexquisitelyrefinedBlancdeNoirs.Hisfirstvintagewineswillbeavailablein2012.Greatrosé,too.ChampagneLallierBijouAŸproducer,makingexemplaryCHAMPAGNEfromGRANDCRUgrapes.FineTraditionBrut,★★★★BRUTZÉROagedsousliège(clampedcork).LilbertetfilsScionofblue-chipCramantDOMtakeshisgrandcruCHARDChampagnestohigherlevel:greatpurityofflavours,greatenergy.Textbook0406CramantGrandCru.MichelLoriotTopgroweronthegreathillofFestigny,MarneValley.Subtle,poisedMeuniers,expansiveChards.Gonet-MédevilleExcitingDOMwithfineholdingsinAmbonnayandLEMESNIL.GastronomicChampagnesbuiltto

last:superbChanteAlouetteLeMesnilandAmbonnayGrandesRuelles(both02040608’).JacquesSelosseAvize’sbest-knowngrowerintopform;twoexquisitereleases:LeMesnil,LesCaressesandAmbonnayLeBoutduClos.J-LVergnonFinerestoredLeMesnilestatemakingexquisiteallChardextra-brutcuvées,espConfidence(02’06’08’11).VeuveFournyRisingCôtedesBlancsstaratVertus:★★★★★Extra-Brut(02’04),superbsingle-v’ydClosduFaubourgNotreDame(990002’).

Chapelle-ChambertinCd’Or★★★90’939596’9899’0102’0305’070809’10’1112’A5.2haneighbourofCHAMBERTIN.Winemore“nervous”,lessmeaty.V.gdincooleryrs.Topproducers:Damoy,Drouhin-Laroze,JADOT,ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET,TRAPET,Tremblay.

ChapoutierNRhô★★→★★★★BiodynamicNorthernRhôneowner,espHERMITAGE,merchant.Deepwines,ledbylow-yield,smallplot-specificCUVÉES:thickGRENACHECHÂTEAUNEUF:BarbeRac,CroixdeBois(r);CÔTE-RÔTIELaMordorée;HERMITAGE:L’Ermite(outstanding),LePavillon(r),L’Ermite,Cuvéedel’Orée,LeMéal(w).AlsoST-JOSEPHLesGranits(rw).Long-lived,savouryMARSANNENorthernRhônewhites,perfectwithsauceddishes.Gd-valueMeysonniersCrozes.Alsov’ydsinCOTEAUXD’AIX-EN-PROVENCE,CÔTESDUROUSSILLON-VILLAGES(gdDOMBila-Haut),RIVESALTES.MichelChapoutierhasALSACEventure(Schieferkopf,schistsoil).ActiveAustralianjointventures:espDomsTournonandTerlato&Chapoutier(fragrant,fine),andPortuguese:Estremadura.

Charbonnière,DomainedelaSRhôr(w)★★★95’9899’0001’030405’06’07’09’10’11’12’Gd17haCHÂTEAUNEUFestaterunbysisters.DecentTraditionwine,notable,authentic

MourredesPerdrix,alsoHautesBrusquières,newL’Envol,VIEILLESVIGNES.Stylish,improvedwhite,genuineVACQUEYRASredalso.

ChardonnayAswellasawhitewinegrape,alsothenameofaMÂCON-VILLAGEScommune–henceMâcon-Chardonnay.

Charmes-ChambertinCd’Or★★★90’939596’9899’0102’0305’06070809’10’1112’31ha,inclneighbourMAZOYÈRES-CHAMBERTIN,notallworthyofGRANDCRU.Butbestfromeg.ARLAUD,BACHELET,DUGAT,DUJAC,LEROY,Perrot-Minot,Roty,ROUSSEAU,VOUGERAIEhaveintense,ripe,dark-cherryfruitandfragrantfinish.

Chassagne-MontrachetCd’Orw★★→★★★★(w)0002’0405’06’0708’09’101112’LargevillageatsouthendofCÔTEDEBEAUNE.Greatwhitesfromeg.Caillerets,LaRomanée,BlanchotsandGRANDSCRUS.BestredsfromMorgeot,CLOSStJean,othersmorerustic.Productiondominatedbyclans

Coffinet,COLIN,GAGNARD,MOREY,PillotplustopDOMSMOREAU,Niellon,Ramonet,CHdeMaltroye.

Château-ChalonJuraw★★★NotaCHbutACandvillage.Uniquedry,yellow,Sherry-likewine(SAVAGNINgrape).Developsflor(seeSherry)whileageinginbarrelsformin6yrs.Readytodrinkwhenbottled,butagesalmostforever.Acuriosity,butgreatfromtopgrower:Berthet-Bondet.

Château(Ch/x)Meansanestate,bigorsmall,gdorindifferent,particularlyinB’X(seeChâteauxofBordeaux).InFrance,châteautendstomean,literally,castleorgreathouse.InBurgundy,DOMistheusualterm.

Châteaud’ArlayJurarwsw★→★★MajorJuraestate;65hainskilfulhands.Winesincl:v.gdVINJAUNE,VINDEPAILLE,PINOTNandMACVIN.

ChâteaudeBeaucastelSRhôrw★★★★78’81’838586’8889’90’94’95’96’9798’99’00’01’03’0405’06’07’0809’

10’1112’Manydecadesorganic,topCHÂTEAUNEUFestate:oldMOURVÈDRE,100-yrROUSSANNE.AlsoexcellentFamillePerrinSouthernRhônes(320ha+,someowned,othersmanaged).Smoky,brooding,complexwines,drinkat2yrsorfrom7–8yrs;livev.well.Recentvintagessofter.Swell,top-grade60%MourvèdreHommageàJacquesPerrin(r).Wonderfulold-vineRoussanne:enjoyover5–25yrs.PolishedCÔTESDURHÔNECoudouletdeBeaucastel(r)(lives8yrs+).FamillePerrinCAIRANNE(gdvalue)GIGONDAS,RASTEAU,VINSOBRESallv.gd,genuine.V.gdorganicPerrinNatureCôtesduRhône(rw).(SeealsoTablasCreek,California.)

ChâteaudelaChaizeBeaujr★★★MagnificentCH,7th-generationownership,alsofinegardens,with99haofBROUILLYallinoneblock.

ChâteaudeMeursaultCd’Orw★★61haestatemakingBEAUNE,MEURSAULT,POMMARD,VOLNAY.CHitselfisimpressive,

cellarsopentopublic.OwnedbyBoisseauxfamily,formerlyofmerchantPATRIARCHE.

ChâteaudeVilleneuveLorw★★→★★★★96990305060708’09’10’11(12)Meticulousproducer.Wonderfulandage-worthySAUMURBlanc(espLesCormiers)andSAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY(espVIEILLESVIGNES,GrandClos).TopCUVÉESonlymadeingdvintages.Inconversiontoorganicviticulture.

ChâteauduCèdreSWFrrw★★→★★★01’020406080910(11)(12’).Thebest-knownmodernCAHORS.★★Best-selling“LePrestige”quicker-maturingthanexpensiveoakytopgrowths.DeliciousVIOGNIERIGP.

ChâteauFuisséBurgw★★→★★★SubstantialproducerwithsomeofthebestterroirsofPOUILLY-FUISSÉ.EspLesCLOS,Combettes.Alsonégociantlines.

Château-GrilletNRhôw★★91’95’98’00’01’04’0506’07’0809’10’11123.6haNorthernRhôneamphitheatregranite

v’yd,ownAC.BoughtbyFPinaultofCHLATOUR(spring2011),pricesjumped.Smooth,moreneutraltakeonVIOGNIERnow–subtle,canbebig,alwaysdrinkwithfood.InternationalelegancethephrasenowunderB’Xinfluence.Chilllightly,decant.

ChâteaulaNertheSRhôrw★★★78’81’89’90’95’96’98’99’00010304’05’06’07’09’10’1112V.gd90haCHÂTEAUNEUFestate.Sleek,polished-upwines,sadlymorehands-off,internationallately.SpecialCUVÉESdeliciousCadettes(r),oaked,richBeauvenir(w).Alsorunsv.fineTAVELPrieuréMontézargues,gd-valueDOMdelaRenjardeCÔTESDURHÔNE,CHSignacCHUSCLAN.

ChâteaumeillantLorp★→★★DYA.Asmall,newACarea(90ha),promotedNov2010,southwestofBourgesinGeorgesSandcountry.GAMAYandPINOTNforlightreds(75%),grisandrosés(25%).Foolishly100%PinotNnolongerallowed.Look

for:Chaillot,Geoffrenet-Morval,Siret-Courtaud.ChateauMontusSWFrrw★★★0001’020405’0608(09)

(10)(11)(12’)ALAINBRUMONT’sflagshipall-TANNATMADIRANproperty.Notforthefaint-hearted,andneedssubstantialageing.ClassyoakedPACHERENC-DU-VIC-BILH(drsw).

Châteauneuf-du-PapeSRhôr(w)★★★78’81’83858889’90’9495’9698’99’00’01’03’04’05’06’07’0809’10’1112’NrAvignon,around45gdDOMSforbestwines(remaining85inconsistenttopoor).Upto13redandwhitevarieties,ledbyGRENACHE,plusSYRAH,MOURVÈDRE,Counoise.Warm,supple,long-lived,shouldbefineandpure,butlatelytoomanysweet,heavy(Parkertaste).Small,traditionalnamescanbegdvalue(esp2010),whileprestigeold-vinewines(worstarelate-harvest,newoak)aretoopricey.Whitesfresh,fruity,orsturdy;bestcanage15yrs.Topnames:CHXDEBEAUCASTEL,Fortia,Gardine,Mont-Redon,LANERTHE,RAYAS(marvellous),Sixtine,

Vaudieu;DOMSdeBeaurenard,BoisdeBoursan,BosquetdesPapes,LESCAILLOUX,ChanteCigale,ChantePerdrix,CHARBONNIÈRE,Charvin(terroir),Cristia,Font-de-Michelle,GrandVeneur(oak),Marcoux(fantasticVIEILLESVIGNES),Pegaü,RogerSabon,VIEUXTÉLÉGRAPHE,HenriBonneau,ClosduMont-Olivet,CLOSDESPAPES,ClosSt-Jean(sip),PUsseglio,VieuxDonjon.

Countrysoonexpectedtobethe2ndfastest-growingChampagnemarket?Nigeria.

ChâteauPierre-BiseLorpw★★→★★★★02030405’0607’(sw)080910’11COTEAUXDULAYON,inclChaume,QUARTSDECHAUMEandSAVENNIÈRES,espCLOSdeGrandBeaupréauandROCHE-AUX-MOINES.V.gdconcentratedANJOU-GAMAY,ANJOU-VILLAGES–bothCUVÉESchistandSpilite,andAnjouBlancHautdelaGarde.ClaudePapinarchitectofQuartsdeChaumeGrand

Cru.ChâteauRayasSRhôrw★★★→★★★★78’7981’858688’

8990’939495’96’98’9900010304’05’06’07’0809’10’11’12’Extraordinary,out-of-the-loop,v.traditional12haCHÂTEAUNEUFestate.Pale,subtle,deep,complexreds(100%GRENACHE)agesuperbly.WhiteRayas(GRENACHEBL,CLAIRETTE)v.gdover18yrs+.Gd-valuesecondwine:Pignan.SupremeCHFonsaletteCÔTESDURHÔNE,inclSYRAH.Decantall.GdCHdesToursVACQUEYRAS,VINDEPAYS.

ChâteauSimoneProvrpw★★HistoricestateoutsideAix-en-Provence,whereWinstonChurchillpaintedMontSt-Victoire.Samefamilyforovertwocenturies.VirtuallysynonymouswithACPALETTE.Warmingreds;whitestokeep3–4yrs.Full-bodiedrosé.Someraregrapevarieties.

Chave,DomaineJean-LouisNRhôrw★★★★85’88’89’90’91’9495’969798’99’0001’03’0405’06’07’0809’10’

11’12’FamilyDOMthatkeepstheHERMITAGEqualityflagflying.Clever,preciseblendingfrombesthillsidesites.Classy,bountiful,long-livedreds,inclexpensive,occasionalCathelin.Notev.gdwhite(mainlyMARSANNE);alsomarvellous,occasionalVINDEPAILLE.ImprovingDOMST-JOSEPHred(incl6ha+DomFlorentin2009andnewv’yds),fruityJ-LChavebrandSt-JosephOfferus,soundmerchantHermitage(rw).

ChavignolLoSANCERREvillagewithfamoussteepv’ydsLesMontsDamnésandCuldeBeaujeu.Clay-limestonesoilgivesfull-bodied,minerallywhitesandredsthatage10yrs(orlonger);espBoulay,BOURGEOIS,Cotat,DAGUENEAU,ThomasLaballe,YvesandPierreMartin,PaulThomas.WhitesperfectwithcrottindeChavignol.

ChénasBeaujr★★★09’10’11’12SmallestBEAUJOLAIScru,betweenMOULIN-À-VENTandJULIÉNAS,lesswell-knownsogdvalueformeatywine.Tryfrom:Aufranc,DUBOEUF,LAPIERRE,

Piron,Thillardon,Trichard,co-op.Chevalier-MontrachetCd’Ow★★★★99’00’02’0405’06’

07’0809’101112JustaboveMONTRACHETgeographically,justbelowinquality,thoughstillcapableofbrilliantmineralwines.Long-livedbutoftenaccessibleearly.SpecialcuvéesfromJADOTandLATOUR(LesDemoiselles),andBOUCHARD(LaCabotte),buttopexampleisLEFLAIVE.TryalsoDancer,Niellon,SAUZET.

ChevernyLorpw★→★★060809’1011LoireAC(534ha)nrChambord.PungentdrywhitefromSAUVBLandCHARD.GenerallylightredsmainlyGAMAY,PINOTN(alsoCABFR,CÔT).Richer,rarerandmoreage-worthyCour-Cheverny(48ha)localRomorantingrapeonly.SeverelyhitbyfrostinApril2012.EspCazin,CLOSTue-Boeuf,Gendrier,Huards,deMontcyPhilippeTessier;DOMSdelaDesoucherie,duMoulin,Veilloux,Villemade.

Chevillon,RCd’Or★★★Delicious,approachableNUITS-ST-GEORGESwithv’ydsinthebestsites,espLesSt-Georges,Cailles,Vaucrains,Roncières.

Chidaine,FrançoisLo(r)wdrswsp★★★05’0708’0910’11Mineral,v.preciseMONTLOUISandVOUVRAY.In2002,tookoverhistoricVouvrayCLOSBaudoin(formerlyPrincePoniatowski).Concentratesondry,DEMI-SECstyles.ACTOURAINE(Chissay,CherValley).Biodynamicchampion,dynamicleaderofMONTLOUISAC.

ChigninSavw★DYA.Light,softwhitefromJacquèregrapesforalpinesummers.Chignin-Bergeron(withROUSSANNEgrapes)isbestandliveliest.

ChinonLorp(w)★★→★★★9596’97020305’060809’10’11Largerange:lighttorichTOURAINECABFR,10%rosé.Topvintagesfromtopgrowerscanage20yrs+.Somesteely,dryCHENINBL.TryALLIET,BAUDRY,BAUDRY-DUTOUR,Couly-

Dutheil,Couly(PierreandBertrand),Grosbois,JMRaffault;CHXdelaBonnelière,deCoulaine,DOMdelaNoblaie.SevencommuneswestofChinontobeinclinAC.

ChiroublesBeaujr09’10’11’12RarelyseenBEAUJOLAIScruinthehillsaboveFLEURIE:fresh,fruity,silkywineforearlydrinking(1–3yrs).Growers:Cheysson,DUBOEUF,Fourneau,Métrat,Passot,Raousset,Trenel.

Chorey-lès-BeauneCd’Or(w)★★99’02’05’06070809’10’1112Pleasurable,affordableburgundyadjoiningBEAUNE:SincebreakupofCHdeChoreyDOM,Tollot-Beautisleader.AlsoArnoux,Loichet.

ChusclanSRhôrpw★→★★09’10’11’12’CÔTESDURHÔNE-VILLAGES;above-averageLaudun-Chusclanco-op,inclgdwhites.Easyreds,crisprosés.Bestco-oplabels(r)ChusclanDOMdel’Olivettte,CÔTESDURHÔNEFemmedeGicon,LIRAC.AlsofullCHSignac(canage)andspecialCUVÉESfromAndré

Roux.Drinkmostyoung.Clair,BrunoCd’Orpw★★★→★★★★TerrificMARSANNAY

estate;majorholdingsinGEVREY-CHAMBERTIN(espCLOSdeBèze,ClosStJacques,Cazetiers),FIXIN,MOREY-ST-DENIS.Note:old-vineSAVIGNYLaDominodeandwhites,inclCORTON-CHARLEMAGNE.

ClairetB’xBetweenroséandred.B’XClairetisAC.CHXFontenille,Penin,Turcaud.

ClairettedeBellegardeSRhôw★DYA.SouthernRhôneACnrNîmes:attractive,crisp,drywhitefromCLAIRETTE,espv.gd,stylishMasCarlot.

ClairettedeDieNRhôwdrs/swsp★★NVAlpinebubbles:flintyor(better)semi-sweet,easy-drinkingsparkler.Underrated,sweetlyfruited,low-degreeMUSCATsparklingwinefromlowAlpsineastRhône;ordryClairette,canage3–4yrs.Fun,get-them-talkingapéritif.Achard-Vincent,Carod,PouletetFils,J-C

Raspail.ClairetteduLanguedocL’docw★DYA.V.smallwhiteAC,nr

Pézenas,fromthetraditionalCLAIRETTEgrape.Originalidentitywassoftandcreamy;nowsomeoak-ageingandevenlate-harvestmoelleuxandRANCIO.

Clape,Auguste,Pierre,OlivierNRhôr(w)★★★→★★★★90’95’9798’99’0001’0203’04’05’06’07’0809’10’11’12’ThekingsofCornas.Supreme5ha+SYRAHcentralv’ydsatCORNAS,manyoldvines.Profound,fine,backward,v.consistentreds,vividreminderofanunhurriedera,need6yrs+.Well-fruitedyoungish-vinesRenaissance.GdCÔTESDURHÔNE(r),ST-PÉRAY,VDT(r).

Clape,laL’docrpw★★→★★★NewappellationaswellaspotentialcruduL’DOC;seeCOTEAUXDUL’DOC.Warming,spicyredsfromsun-soakedhillsbetweenNarbonneandtheMed.Tangy,saltywhitesbenefitfrommaritimeinfluenceandage

surprisinglywell.Gd:CHXl’Hospitalet,Moyau,LaNégly,Pech-Céléyran,Pech-Redon,Rouquette-sur-Mer,Ricardelle,Anglès,MasduSoleila,Camplazens.

ClimatBurgBurgundianwordforindividuallynamedv’yd,eg.MEURSAULTTesson.

ClosAtermcarryingsomeprestige,reservedfordistinct(walled)v’yds,ofteninoneownership(espBurgundy,CHAMPAGNE,ALSACE).

ClosdeGamotSWFrr★★★90’9598’0001’02’0405’060809(10)(11)(12’)TheJouffreaufamilyshowhowMALBECshouldreallytaste.CAHORSasitwasbeforewewereallborn.★★★CuvéedesVignesCentenaires(bestyrsonly)andhilltop★★★★CLOSStJeanmiraculouslysurvivemodernfashions,deerandwildboar.

ClosdelaRocheCd’Or★★★90’93’9596’9899’0102’0305’06070809’10’1112’ArguablythefinestGRANDCRUof

MOREY-ST-DENIS,withasmuchgraceaspower.Needstime.Best:Amiot,ARLAUD,DUJAC,LEROY,LIGNIER,PONSOT,ROUSSEAU.

ClosdesLambraysCd’Or★★★99’020305’060709’10’1112’GRANDCRUv’yd(8.8ha)atMOREY-ST-DENIS.AvirtualmonopolyoftheDOMdesLambrays,invigoratingwineinanearly-picked,spicy,stemmystyle–intotalcontrasttoneighbourCLOSDETART.

ClosdesMouchesCd’Orw★★★SplendidPREMIERCRUBEAUNEv’yd,largelyownedbyDROUHIN.Whitesandreds,spicyandmemorable–andconsistent.Little-knownv’ydsofthesamenameexistinSANTENAYandMEURSAULT,too.

ClosdesPapesSRhôrw★★★★90’9598’99’0001’03’04’05’06’07’0809’10’1112’Top32ha(18plots)CHÂTEAUNEUFestateofAvrilfamily,v.lowyields.Rich,aromatic,complexred,moreobviouslyriperecently(mainlyGRENACHE,MOURVÈDRE,drinkat2–3yrsorfrom8yrs)andgreatwhite(6

varieties,classy,deservesfinecuisine;5–18yrs).ClosdeTartCd’Or★★★★90’96’99’01’02’0305’0607

08’09101112’MOREY-ST-DENISGRANDCRU,upgradedsubstantiallyinqualityandpriceonthewatchofdirectorSylvainPitiot.Oftenmostexcitinginlessripeyrs.

ClosdeVougeotCd’Or★★★90’93’96’9899’0102’03’05’06070809’10’1112’A50haCÔTEDENUITSGRANDCRU,withmanyowners.Occasionallysublime.Maturitydependsongrower’sphilosophy,techniqueandposition.Topgrowers:CHdelaTour,DROUHIN,EUGÉNIE,FAIVELEY,GRIVOT,GROS,HUDELOT-Noëllat,JADOT,LEROY,LIGER-BELAIR,MÉO-CAMUZET,MUGNERET,Vougeraie.

ClosduMesnilChampKRUG’sfamouswalledv’ydinGRANDCRULeMesnil.Esplong-lived,pureCHARDvintageCUVÉES,greatyrssuchas92,95perfectnowandto2020+.

ClosduRoiCd’Or★★→★★★Bestv’ydinGRANDCRU

CORTON,topPREMIERCRUv’ydinMERCUREY,lesssoinBEAUNE;specialsiteinMARSANNAY.Thekingusuallychosewell.

ClosRougeardLorw(sw)★★★★030405’06070809’10’(11)Small,iconicDOMrunbyFoucaultbrothers–impeccableSAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY,greatSAUMURBlanc,lusciousCOTEAUXDESAUMUR.MakingNATURALwinebeforeitwasfashionable.

ClosSt-DenisCd’Or★★★90’93’9596’9899’0102’0305’06070809’10’1112’GRANDCRUatMOREY-ST-DENIS(6.4ha).Sumptuouswineinyouth,growingsilkywithage.TryfromARLAUD,Bertagna,DUJAC,Jouan,Leroux,PONSOT.

ClosSte-HuneAlw★★★★TRIMBACHwinefromGRANDCRUROSACKER.GreatestRIESinALSACE(00’020406’08’10’12).V.fine,initiallyaustere;needs5–10yrs+.

ClosSt-JacquesCd’Or★★★90’9395’96’9899’0102’0305’06070809’10’1112’6.7hahillsidePREMIERCRUinGEVREY-CHAMBERTIN,withperfectsoutheastexposure.Five

excellentproducers:CLAIR,ESMONIN,FOURRIER,JADOT,ROUSSEAU;powerful,velvetyredsoftenrankedabovemanyGRANDSCRUS.

Coche-DuryCd’Orw★★★★Superb11.5haMEURSAULTDOMledbyJean-FrançoisCocheandsonRaphaël.ExceptionalwhitesfromALIGOTÉtoCORTON-CHARLEMAGNEandv.prettyreds,too.Hardtofind.

ColinCd’Orw★★★LeadingCHASSAGNE-MONTRACHETandST-AUBINfamily,withthenextgenerationmakingwaves,espPierre-YvesC-Morey(outstandingwhites)andDOMMarcC.TryalsoBrunoorPhilippeC(sonsofMichelC-Deleger).

CollinesRhodaniennesNRhôrw★★QualityNorthernRhôneIGP,clear-fruited,granite,hill-basedredsv.gdvalue.Cancontainyoung-vineCÔTE-RÔTIE,alsorecentv’ydsatSeyssuel(deep,expensive).Mainlyred,mostlySYRAH(best),alsoMERLOT,GAMAY,authenticVIOGNIER(best),CHARD.Reds:

Bonnefond,LCheze,J-MGérin,Jamet(v.gd),Jasmin,Monier,M&SOgier,SPichat.Whites:Alexandrins,Barou,YCuilleron,FMerlin,Perret(v.gd),GVernay.

CollioureRoussrpw★★Table-winetwinofBANYULS,withmostproducersmakingboth.Warm,gutsyred,mainlyGRENACHE,fromdramaticterracesabovethetown,overlookingtheMed.Alsorosé,andwhitesince2002,basedonGRENACHEBLANC.Top:LesClosdePaulilles,DOMSduMasBlanc,delaRectorie,LaTourVieille,Vial-Magnères,Madeloc,CoumedelMas.

ComtéTolosanSWFrrpw★MostlyDYAIGPfoundallovertheSouthwest,rangingfromtheveryordinary(asanumbrellaforsmallerIGPs)toluscious,sweetPETITMANSENGfrom★★★CHdeCabidos,★★DOMdeMoncaut(JURANÇONinallbutname),andgroundbreaking★★DOMDERIBONNET.

CondrieuNRhôw★★★0508’0910’11’12’Full,freesia-scented,apricot/pear-flavouredwhitefromhomeofVIOGNIER,

manygraniteslopes.Bestaremineral-tinted,pure.Rarewhitetoaccompanysmokedsalmonwell.75growers,qualityvaries(exceptv.gd08,lovely10,promising12);oak,sweetness,alcoholcanbetoomuch.Best:CHAPOUTIER,YCuilleron,DELAS,Gangloff,GUIGAL,FMerlin,Niéro,APerret,CPichon,ROSTAING,GVernay(esplong-livedCoteaudeVernon),FVillard.

CorbièresL’docr(p)(w)★★→★★★05’0607’0809101112LargestACoftheL’DOC,withcruofBoutenac.Wineslikethescenery:sun-soakedandrugged.Best:CHXAiguilloux,deCabriac,laBaronne,Borde-Rouge,LesCLOSPerdus,Lastours,OllieuxRomanis,LesPalais,Pech-Latt,laVoulteGasparet,DOMSduGrandCrès,deFontsainte,Trillol,duVieuxParc,deVillemajou,Villerouge.Closdel’Anhel.Co-ops:Camplong,Embrès-et-Castelmaure,Tuchan.

CornasNRhôr★★★78’83’85’88’89’90’91’94’95’9697’

98’99’00’01’0203’0405’06’07’0809’10’11’12’ExcitingNorthernRhôneSyrah.Deep,boldlyfruited,mineral-lined.Candrinksomeyoung,vibrantearlyfruit,mostlyneedstoage5–15yrs.Stunning2010.Top:Allemand,Balthazar(traditional),Clape(benchmark),Colombo(newoak),Courbis(modern),Delas,J&EDurand(earlyfruit),GGilles,JABOULET(St-PierreCUVÉE),Lemenicier,VParis,Tardieu-Laurent(oak),DOMduTunnel,Voge(oak).

Corsica/Corse★→★★rpwACsAjaccio,PATRIMONIO;bettercrusCoteauxduCapCorse,SartèneandCalvi.IGP:ÎledeBeauté.Light,spicyredsfromSCIACARELLO;morestructuredtannicwinesfromNIELLUCCIO;gdrosés;tangy,herbalVermentinowhites.Topgrowers:Abbatucci,AntoineArena,CLOSd’Alzeto,ClosCapitoro,Gentile,YvesLeccia,Montemagni,Peraldi,Vaccelli,Saperale,Fiumicicoli,Torraccia,Canarelli,Pieretti.Originalwinesthatrarelyleave

theisland.CortonCd’Or(w)★★★90’9596’9899’0102’03’05’0607

0809’10’1112’The160haclassifiedasGRANDCRUisfartoomuch:onlyafewCortonv’ydsie.CLOSDUROI,Bressandes,LeRognetdeserveitforweightandstructure;othersmakefairsofterreds.DRCinvolvementsince2009increasedinterest.Tryd’Ardhuy,BONNEAUDUMARTRAY,CHANDONDEBRIAILLES,DOMdesCroix,Dubreuil-Fontaine,FAIVELEY,CamilleGiroud,MÉO-CAMUZET,Senard,TOLLOT-BEAUT.Occasionalwhites,eg.HOSPICESDEBEAUNErarelyasinterestingasCORTON-CHARLEMAGNE.

Corton-CharlemagneCd’Ow★★★★→★★★★★99’00’02’030405’0607’0809’10’1112’SouthwestandwestupperhillofCorton,plusabandroundthetop,allsuitedtowhitewines.Intensemineralityandgreatageingpotentialofteninsufficientlyrealized.Topgrowers:BONNEAUDUMARTRAY,

COCHE-DURY,FAIVELEY,HOSPICESDEBEAUNE,JADOT,PJavillier,LATOUR,Rapet,Rollin,VOUGERAIE.

CostièresdeNîmesSRhôrpw★→★★07’09’10’1112’Seriousquality,stonysoilSouthernRhôneregion,southwestofCHÂTEAUNEUF.Red(GRENACHE,SYRAHmainly):full,dark,spiced,ages5–8yrs,gdvalue.Best:CHXdeCampuget,GrandeCassagne,MasdesBressades(gdfruit),MasCarlot,MasNeuf,Mourgues-du-Grès,Nages,d’OretdesGueules,Roubaud,delaTuilerie;DOMSPetitRomain,Tardieu-Laurent,duVieuxRelais.Fresh,gdrosés,stylishwhites(ROUSSANNE).

TimetotakeAlsacePinotNseriously.CouldsoonbegrandcruinHengst,Vorbourg.

CôteChalonnaiseBurgrwsp★★RegionimmediatelysouthofCÔTED’ORv’yds;lowerprices.BOUZERONforALIGOTÉ,Mercurey,GIVRYforstructuredreds,interestingwhites;RULLY

forlighterwinesinbothcolours;MONTAGNYforitsleanerCHARD.

CôtedeBeauneCd’Orw★★→★★★★Usedgeographically:thesouthernhalfoftheCÔTED’OR.AlsoanACinitsownright,applyingtotopofhillaboveBEAUNEitself.

CôtedeBeaune-VillagesCd’Or★★05’070809’10’1112RedwinesfromlesservillagesofthesouthernhalfoftheCÔTED’OR.Rarelyexcitingandnowrarelyseen.

CôtedeBrouillyBeaujr★★05’09’10’11’12FlanksofthehillsideaboveBROUILLYprovideoneoftherichestBEAUJOLAIScru.Deservestobemuchbetter-known.TryJ-PBrun,LMartray,CHThivin.

CôtedeNuitsCd’Or(w)★★→★★★★NorthernhalfofCÔTED’OR.Mostlyredwine.

CôtedeNuits-VillagesCd’Or(w)★★02’0305’06070809’10’1112’AjuniorACforextremenorthandsouthendsofCÔTE

DENUITS;wellworthinvestigatingforbargains.Single-v’ydversionsbeginningtoappear.TryArdhuy,Jourdan,Chopin,Gachot-Monot,Loichet

Côted’OrBurgDépartementnameappliedtothecentralandprincipalBurgundyv’ydslopes:CÔTEDEBEAUNEandCÔTEDENUITS.NotusedonlabelsexcforBOURGOGNECôted’OrAC,arrivedin2012.

CôteRoannaiseLorp★★09’1011(12)Quality200haAConlowerslopesofthehighgranitehillswestofRoanne;cousinofBEAUJOLAIS.ExcellentjuicyGAMAY.Producers:Désormière,Fontenay,Giraudon,Paroisse,Plasse,Pothiers,Sérol,Vial.AlsowhiteIGPfromCHARDandincreasinglyVIOGNIER.

Côte-RôtieNRhôr★★★→★★★★78’85’88’89’90’91’94’95’98’99’0001’03’0405’06’07’0809’10’1112’FinestRhônered,mainlySYRAH,splashofVIOGNIER,stylecanbeburgundian.Aromatic,pure,complex,v.finewithage(esp5–10

yrs+).Glorious2010.Top:Barge(traditional),Bernard,Bonnefond(oak),Bonserine(GUIGAL-owned),CHAPOUTIER,Clusel-Roch(organic),DELAS,Duclaux,Gaillard(oak),Garon,J-MGérin(oak),Guigal(longoaking),Jamet(wonderful),Jasmin,M&SOgier(oak),ROSTAING(fine),J-MStéphan(organic),VIDAL-FLEURY(LaChatillonne).

CoteauxBourguignonsBurg★DYA.NewACfrom2011replacingBOURGOGNEGRANDORDINAIRE.Mostlyreds,GAMAY,PINOTN.Maintake-upwillbeunsaleablebasicBEAUJOLAISthatmaybereclassifiedunderthissexiername.RarewhitesALIGOTÉ,CHARD,MELON,PINOTBL,PINOTGR.

CoteauxChampenoisChampr(p)w★★★(w)DYA.ACforstillwinesofCHAMPAGNE,eg.BOUZY.VintagesasforChampagne.Betterredswithclimatechange(esp09).Notlikelytoreplacefizz,though.

Coteauxd’Aix-en-ProvenceProvrpw★★SprawlingACfrom

hillsnorthofAixandonplainaroundEtangdeBerre.Fruit-saladofvarieties,bothB’XandMIDI.Redsarebest,espfromCHXBeaupré,Calissanne,Revelette,lesBastides,laRealtière,lesBéates,Bas.SeealsoLESBAUX-EN-PROVENCE.Butlacksarealidentity.

Coteauxd’AncenisLorpw(sw)★→★★GenerallyDYA.AOP–transitionregionbetweenNantesandANJOU.Chieflyfordry,DEMI-SECandsweetCHENINBLwhites,plusage-worthyMalvoisie;alsolightredsandrosés,mainlyGAMAY,plusCABSFRandSAUV.EspAthimonetsesEnfants,Guindon,Quarteron.

CoteauxdeChalosseSWFrrpw★DYA.ModestIGPfromlocalgrapes,rarelyfoundoutsideareaofproduction.Co-op(nowmergedwithTURSAN)dominates.

CoteauxdeGlanesSWFrrp★★DYA.Easy,gd-valueIGPfromeight-memberco-opintheupperDordogne.Alocalbestseller,inclrareSégalingrapetospikeuptheMERLOTandGAMAY.

Coteauxdel’ArdècheSRhôrp(w)★→★★ValleyareawestofRhône,widechoice,gdvalue.NewDOMS;freshreds,someoaked;VIOGNIER(eg.MasdeLibian,CHAPOUTIER)andMARSANNE.BestfromSYRAH,alsoGAMAY(oftenoldvines),CABSAUV(Serret).Burgundy-styleArdècheCHARDbyLOUISLATOUR;GrandArdèche(oldervines,butv.oaked).DOMSduColombier,J&EDurand,Favette,Flacher,Grangeon,Mazel,Vigier,CHdelaSelve.

Coteauxdel’AubanceLowsw★★→★★★★89’90’95’96’97’020305’07’0910’11’SmallAC(180ha)forsweetwhitesfromCHENINBL.Nervier,lessrichthanCOTEAUXDULAYONexceptSÉLECTIONDESGRAINSNOBLES.ClosetoAngers,slopesmoregentlethaninLayon.Oftengdvalue.EspBablut,Haute-Perche,Montgilet,CHPrincé,Richou,improvingRochellesandChlaVarière.

CoteauxdeSaumurLowsw★★→★★★03,05,07’0910’11

Sweet,hand-pickedCHENINBL.Atraditionrevivedsince1989–resemblesCOTEAUXDULAYONbutlessrichandmoredelicateandcitric.EspDOMDESCHAMPSFLEURIS,CLOSROUGEARD,RégisNeau(DOMdeNerleux),Targe,Vatan(CHdeHureau).

CoteauxdesBaronniesSRhôrpw★DYA.RhôneIGPinhighhillseastofVINSOBRES.SYRAH,CABSAUV,MERLOT,CHARD,plusGRENACHE,CINSAULT,etc.Simplereds,alsofreshVIOGNIER.NoteDOMSduRieu-Frais,Rosière.

CoteauxduGiennoisLorpw★→★★DYA.Smallappellation(191ha)northofPOUILLY.Scatteredv’yds–CosnetoGien.LightredshamperedbyunconvincingstatutoryblendofGAMAYandPINOTN;SAUVBLlikeajuniorSANCERREorPouilly-Fuméandbetterthanthereds.Best:EmileBalland,BOURGEOIS,Catherine&MichelLanglois,Paulat,Treuillet,Villargeau.

CoteauxduLanguedocL’docrpw★★→★★★040506070809101112AsprawlingACfromNarbonnetoNîmes;various

sub-divisions.Enormousqualityrange.Nowdestinedtodisappearin2017,infavourofevenlargerACL’DOC(created2007).Potentialnewhierarchyofcrus,suchasGRÈSDEMONTPELLIER,TERRASSESDULARZAC,PÉZENAS.NewestatesgaloredemonstrateexcitingpotentialoftheMIDI.

CoteauxduLayonLowsw★★→★★★★8990959697020305’07’0910’11HeartofANJOU:sweetCHENINBLvaryingconsiderablyinsweetnesswithadmirableacidity,bestnearlyimmortal.SevenvillagescanaddnametoACwithChaumeasaPREMIERCRU.TopACs:BONNEZEAUX,QUARTSDECHAUME.Growers:Baudouin,BAUMARD,Delesvaux,desForges,DOMlesGrandsVignes,Guegniard,DomdeJuchepie,Ogereau,CHPIERRE-BISE,Pithon-Paillé.2010stunning.

CoteauxduLoirLorpwdrsw★→★★★05’070809’10’11NortherntributaryoftheLoire,LeLoirissmallbutdynamicregionwithCoteauxduLoirandJASNIÈRES.Steely,fine,apple-

scentedCheninBl,GAMAY,increasinglyfashionable,pepperyPineaud’Aunisoccasionallysparkling,plusGrolleau(rosé),CABandCôt.Topgrowers:AngeVin,DOMDEBELLIVIERE,RégisBreton,LeBriseau,Fresneau,Gigou,PascalJanvier,LesMaisonsRouges,deRycke.2012–badlyhitbyfrost,etc.

CoteauxduLyonnaisBeaujrp(w)★DYAJuniorBEAUJOLAIS.Bestenprimeur.

CoteauxduQuercySWFrrp★05’060809’10(11)(12’)AOPsouthofCAHORS.BasedonCABFR;needsfood.Independents★★DOMduMerchien(IGP),★Domsd’Ariès,deGuyot,deLafage,Lagarde;★co-op’sgd-value“BesseydeBoissy”.

CoteauxduVendômoisLorpw★→★★DYA.152haACBetweenVendômeandMontoireinLeLoirValley.MostcharacteristicwinesareVINGRISfromPineaud’Aunisgrape,whichalsogivespepperynotestoredblendsalongsideCABFR,PINOTN,GAMAY.WhitesareCHENINBLandCHARD.Producers:

PatriceColin,FouràChaux,JMartellière,Montrieux,CAVEduVendôme-Villiers.

CoteauxetTerrassesdeMontaubanSWFrrpwIGP★→★★DYADynamic,locallypopularDOMdeMontelswithhugerangeofgd-valuewineshasexpandedintoCAHORS(DOMSerredeBovila).Also★DomBiarnès,MasdesAnges.

CoteauxVarois-en-ProvenceProvrpw★→★★05’06070809101112SandwichedbetweenbiggerCOTEAUXD’AIXandCÔTESDEPROVENCE.Warmingreds,freshrosés;gdpotentialbutlacksaleader.TryCHXlaCalisse,Miraval,DOMlesAlysses,duDeffends,duLoou,desChaberts.

CôtesCatalanesRoussrpw★★→★★ThebestIGPofROUSSILLON,coveringmuchofarea.Excitingsourceofinnovationandinvestment.Oldvinesgalore,GRENACHEandCARIGNAN.DOMSGÉRARDGAUBY,Matassa,LaPréceptorieCenternach,Casenove,Gauby,OlivierPithon,Padié,Soulanes,

leSoula,Vaquer.Côtesd’AuvergneMassCrp(w)★→★★GenerallyDYA.

Small,scatteredAC(412ha).MainlyGAMAY,thoughsomePINOTN(stupidlyblendonlyallowed)andCHARD.Bestredsimprove2–3yrs.Topvillages:Boudes,Chanturgue,Châteaugay,Madargues(r);Corent(p).Producers:CAVESt-Verny,Maupertuis,Sauvat.

CôtesdeBordeauxB’x★NewAClaunchedin2008forreds.Embracesandpermitscross-blendingbetweenCASTILLON,FRANCS,BLAYEandCADILLAC(formerlyPremièresCôtesdeBordeaux).GrowerswhowanttomaintaintheidentityofasingleterroirhavestiffercontrolsbutcanputCastillon,Cadillac,etc.,beforeCôtesdeBordeaux.BLAYE-CÔTESDEBORDEAUXandFRANCS-CÔTESDEBORDEAUXalsoproducealittledrywhite.TheCÔTESDEBOURGisnotpartofthenewsystem.

CôtesdeBourgB’xrw★→★★0405’0809’10’11Solid,

sappyreds,alittlewhitefromeastbankofGironde.IndependentofnewCÔTESDEBORDEAUXAC.TopCHX:Brûlesécaille,Bujan,Civrac,Falfas,Fougas-Maldoror,Grand-Maison,Haut-Guiraud,Haut-Maco,HautMondésir,Macay,Mercier,Nodoz,RocdeCambes,Rousset,Sociondo.

CôtesdeDurasSWFrrpw(sw)★→★★★08091011(12’)AOP.Renascentarea:buzzspreading.Biodynamismpropels★★★DOMSMouthes-les-Bihan,PetitMalromé,MontRaméandNadineLussauaheadof★★LesHautsdeRiquet,LePetitCLOSdesVents,LesCours.Stillreliableare★★DomsdesAllegretsandLaulan,andeventhedullold★Berticotco-op.★★★CHCondomPerceval’ssweetstilltop.

CôtesdeGascogneSWFr(r)(p)w★★DYAIGP.Plausible,easy-drinking,mainlywhitesinbigquantitiesbypowerfulexporters★★PRODUCTEURSPLAIMONTandTariquet.Independentswithmorecharacter:★★DOMSd’Arton,Chiroulet,Haut-

Campagnau,Ménard,Millet,Pellehaut,deSanGuilhem.Or★CHdesCassagnoles,deJöy,deLaballe,deLauroux,deMagnaut,Papolle,StLannes,Sédouprat(espredCUVÉESanglier),Uby.SeealsoBRUMONT.

CôtesdeMillauSWFrrpwIGP★DYA.Recentrevivalofoncehugev’ydinTarnValleybyenthusiasticco-op(withacuvéenamedafterFoster’sviaduct)andsixseriousindependents,incl★DOMduVieuxNoyer.

CôtesdeMontravelSWFrwsw★★05’07091011’(12’)Sub-AOPofBERGERAC;half-sweetversionofMONTRAVEL,somewherebetweenthemainstreamSECandtheultra-swHaut-Montravel.Anapéritifstyle,sadlylesspopularthanitoncewas.

CôtesdeProvenceProvrpw★→★★★0506070809101112(pw)DYA.LargeACknownmainlyforrosé;leapinginquality.Satisfyingredsandherbalwhites.STE-VICTOIRE,Fréjus,LaLondeand,mostrecently,Pierrefeuaresubzones.Leaders

incl:CastelRoubine,CommanderiedePeyrassol,DOMSBernarde,delaCourtade,Léoube,Gavoty(superb),CHXd’Esclans,deSelleandCLOSMireille,desPlanes,Rabiéga,Richeaume,Rimauresq.SeeCOTEAUXD’AIX,BANDOL.

CôtesdeThongueL’docrpw★★(pw)DYA.MostdynamicIGPofHÉRAULT.Intriguingblendsinpreferencetosinglevarietals.Redswillage.DOMSArjolle,lesCheminsdeBassac,laCroixBelle,Magellan,Monplézy,desHenrys.

CôtesdeToulAlrpw★DYA.V.lightwinesfromLorraine;mainlyVINGRIS.

CôtesduBrulhoisSWFrrp(w)★→★★08091011(12’)ExpandingAOPnrAgen,instylebetweenlighterCAHORSandMADIRAN.Reds(called“black”)mustinclsomeTANNAT.★Co-opreallydoescooperatewithindependents★★DOMdesThermes,leBoisdeSimon,★CHlaBastide,DOMSduPountet,Coujétou-Peyret.

CôtesduCouchoisBurg★→★★09’10’1112SubdistrictofBOURGOGNERougeatsouthernendofCÔTED’ORv’yds.Powerfulredsontannicside.Best:AlainHasard.

CôtesduForezLorp(sp)★→★★DYA.Exciting,southernmostLoireAC.GAMAYredsandrosés.LesVigneronsForéziens,Bonnfoy,Gaumon,Guillot,Mondon&Demeure,Real.IGP:CHARD,PINOTGR,ROUSSANNE,VIOGNIER.

CôtesduJuraJurarpw(sp)★DYAManylighttints/tastes.ARBOISmoresubstantial.

CôtesduRhôneSRhôrpw★→★★09’10’11’12’Vastareaacross170communesinSouthernRhône.Bigsplitbetweenrisinghandmadequalityandmass-produced.Fruitemphasisawinnerinbest,esp11.MainlyGRENACHE,alsoSYRAH,CARIGNAN.Bestdrunkyoung.Vaucluseareatop,thenGARD(Syrah).

CôtesduRhône-VillagesSRhôrpw★→★★07’09’10’11’

12’Punchyredsfrom7,700ha,incl18namedSouthernRhônevillages.Besthaveabundantdarkfruit,spice;gd-value:coreisGRENACHE;SYRAH,MOURVÈDREsupport.Improvingwhites,ofteninclVIOGNIER,ROUSSANNE,withCLAIRETTE,GRENACHEBLANC:gdwithfood.SeeCAIRANNE,CHUSCLAN,LAUDUN,ST-GERVAIS,SABLET,SÉGURET,VISAN.New2005:MASSIFD’UCHAUX(gd),PLANDEDIEU(robust),PUYMÉRAS,SIGNARGUES,Gadagne(2012,nrAvignon).NB:CHXFontségune,Signac,DOMSAphillantes,Aure,Cabotte,Coulange,GrandMoulas,GrandVeneur,Jérome,Montbayon,Mourchon,Rabasse-Charavin,Renjarde,Romarins,Ste-Anne,StSiffrein,Saladin,Valériane,VieuxChêne,Viret(cosmopolitan),MasdeLibian,CAVEEstézargues,CaveRasteau.

CôtesduRoussillonRoussrpw★→★★05’0607’0809101112EastPyrénéesAC,coversv’ydsofPyrénées-OrientalesbehindPerpignan.Dominatedbyco-ops,tryVIGNERONS

Catalans.Warmingredbest,mostlyold-vineCARIGNAN,GRENACHE.

CôtesduRoussillon-VillagesRoussr★★050607080910111228Villagesinbestpartofregion.Dominatedbyco-opsandVIGNERONSCatalans.Bestlabels:DOMSdesChênes,CAZES,laCazenove,GAUBY(alsocharacterfulwhiteIGP),Piquemal,CHdeJau,MasCrémat,CLOSdesFées,Clotdel’Oum.

ThetopCôtesduRhôneproducersLaCourançonne,Domazan,Fonsalette(beauty),GrandMoulas,Haut-Musiel,Hugues,Montfaucon(walso),St-Estève,Trignon(inclVIOGNIER);co-opsCAIRANNE,Chantecotes(Ste-Cécile-les-Vignes),PUYMÉRAS,RASTEAU,Villedieu(espw);CAVEEstézargues,DOMSBramadou,AndréBrunel,Charvin(terroir),Chaume-Arnaud,Combebelle,CoudouletdeBEAUCASTEL

(classyr),CrosdelaMûre(great-value),MDumarcher,Espigouette,Ferrand,Gourget,Gramenon(biodynamic),Janasse(oldGRENACHE),Jaume,FamillePerrin,Manarine,Réméjeanne(walso),Romarins,Rouge-Bleu(organic,clear),Soumade,VieilleJulienne,VieuxChêne;DUBOEUF,GUIGAL(greatvalue)

CôtesduTarnSWFrrpw★DYA.IGPthatoverlapsbutisslightlylargerthanGAILLAC.★★DOMSd’enSegur(espoff-drySAUVBL)andVignesdeGarbasses(LouBiorange)aresurprisinglygd.

CôtesduVivaraisSRhôrpw★10’11’12MostlyDYA.Almost500haspreadinhillyArdèchecountrywestofMontélimar.Definiteimprovement:quaffablewinesbasedonGRENACHE,SYRAH;somemoresturdy,oak-agedreds.Note:Gallety,MasdeBagnols,VigneronsdeRuoms.

CouléedeSerrantLowdrsw★★★9596979899020304050708091011A7haCHENINBLv’ydatSAVENNIÈRES.Highpriestofbiodynamics,NicolasJoly’swineshavebeenbelowpar,betternowdaughterVirginieincharge.Don’tchill;decant.Oldvintagescanbesublime.

Courcel,DomainedeCd’Or★★★LeadingPOMMARDestate,finefloralwineswithwhole-bunchvinification.TopPREMIERSCRUSRugiensandÉpenots,plusinterestingCroixNoires.Winesagewell.

CrémantInCHAMPAGNE,meant“creaming”(half-sparkling):nowcalleddemi-mousse/perle.Since1975,anACforqualityclassic-methodsparklingfromALSACE,B’X,BOURGOGNE,Die,Jura,LIMOUX,LoireandLuxembourg.

CrépySavw★★DYA.Light,soft,Swiss-stylewhitefromsouthshoreofLakeGeneva.“Crépitant”hasbeencoinedforitsfaintfizz.

Criots-Bâtard-MontrachetCd’O★★★02’0405060708091112TiniestoftheMONTRACHETfamily,just1.57ha.Notquitetheconcentrationoffull-blownBÂTARD,butpureandsensualatbest:tryBelland,Blain-GAGNARD,FontaineG.

WheredoyoungRhônegrowersgotopolishtheirskills?Burgundy.Sodidthewines,untilthe1970s.

Crozes-HermitageNRhôrw★★05’060709’10’11’12(Big)backyardofHERMITAGE;SYRAHonflatterv’yds.Keyword:fun;plaingivesearly-drinkingwines(2–5yrs).Best(simpleCUVÉES)holdblack-cherryfruit,tar.Someoaked,grittytechnowinescostmore.Top:Belle,YChave,CHCurson,Darnaud,DOMSduColombier,Combier,Dumaine,desEntrefaux(oak),AGraillot,Hauts-Chassis,Lises(fine),Mucyn,duPavillon-Mercurol,deThalabertofJABOULET,Chapoutier,Delas(Tourd’Albon,LeClosv.gd).Drinkwhite(MARSANNE)early,v.gd10,11.

CuvecloseShort-cutmethodofmakingsparklingwineinatank.Sparklediesawayinglassmuchquickerthanwithméthodetraditionnellewine.

CuvéeWinecontainedinacuve,orvat.Awordofmanyuses,inclsynonymfor“blend”andfirst-presswines(asinCHAMPAGNE).Oftenjustrefersto“lot”ofwine.

Dagueneau,DidierLow★★★→★★★★02030405’0708’09’1011(12)BestproducerofPOUILLY-FUMÉ,WorldreferenceforstunninglypreciseSAUVBL,diedin2008.ImpressivesonLouis-Benjamininchargeofmeticulouswinemaking.TopCUVÉES:PurSang,Silexandungrafted,astronomicallypricedAsteroide.AlsoSANCERRE–smallv’ydsinCHAVIGNOL;JURANÇON.

d’Angerville,MarquisCd’Orw★★★★BiodynamicsuperstarinVOLNAY,espClosdesDucs(MONOPOLE),ChampansandTaillepieds.Qualityrisingyetfurtheroflate.PlanningnewventureinJura.

Dauvissat,VincentChabw★★★★GreatCHABLIS;oldmethodsusedforidiosyncratic,v.long-livedCHABLIS.CousinofRAVENEAU.Best:LaForest,Séchet,Preuses,LesCLOS.

DegréalcooliqueDegreesofalcohol,ie.%byvolume.d’Eguisheim,CaveVinicoleAlrw★★V.gdALSACEco-opforits

size.Excellentvalue:fineGRANDSCRUSHatschbourg,HENGST,Ollwiller,Spiegel.OwnsWillm.Toplabel:WOLFBERGER.Best:GrandeRés,Sigillé,Armorié.GdCRÉMANTandPINOTN(esp0910’11).

Deiss,DomaineMarcelAlrw★★★BiodynamicgroweratBergheim.Favoursblendedwinesfromindividualv’yds,oftendifferentvarietiesco-planted–mixedsuccess.BestwineRIESSchoenenbourg.

DelamotteChampBRUT;BlancdeBlancs(02040708);CUVÉENicholasDelamotte.FinesmallCHARD-dominatedCHAMPAGNEhouseatLEMESNIL.V.gdsaignéeRosé.ManagedwithSALONbyLAURENT-PERRIER;BdeBasortofpoorman’sSalon.“Library”stockofoldvintages.

DelasFrèresNRhôrpw★→★★★Consistent,precise-quality,deep-rangeNorthernRhônemerchant,withCONDRIEU,CROZES-HERMITAGE,CÔTE-RÔTIE,HERMITAGEv’yds.Topwines:Condrieu

(CLOSBoucher),Côte-RôtieLandonne,HermitageDOMdesTourettes(r),MdelaTourette(w),LesBessards(red,v.fine,smoky,longlife).Whiteslighterrecently.OwnedbyROEDERER.

Demi-secHalf-dry:inpracticemorelikehalf-sweet(eg.ofCHAMPAGNE).

DeutzChampBRUTClassicNV;RoséNV;Brut(000204).Top-flightCHARDCUVÉEAmourdeDeutz(020408).OneoftopsmallCHAMPAGNEhouses,ROEDERER-owned.V.dry,classicwines.SuperbCuvéeWilliamDeutz(02’0408’).

DomaineBouscasséSWFrrw★★★0001020405’060809(10)(11)(12’)WhereBRUMONT’scareerinMADIRANstarted.JustasbeefyashisCHMONTUS.LovelyunoakedPACHERENC.

Domaine(Dom)Property,particularlyinBurgundyandruralFrance.Seeundername,eg.TEMPIER,DOM.

DomPérignonChampSuperb02’,gd03(againsttheodds)040608’;rosé020406.LuxuryCUVÉEofMOËT&CHANDON.

Astonishinglyconsistentqualityandcreamycharacter,espwith10–15yrsbottleage;tightwhenyoung.Late-disgorgedOenothèquereleases96’88andmagicalrosé90’.

Dopff&IrionAlw★→★★17th-centuryfirmatRiquewihr,nowpartofPFAFFENHEIM.MUSCATLesAmandiers,GEWURZLesSorcières.Fairquality.

DopffauMoulinAlw★★★Ancient,top-classfamilyproduceratRiquewihr.Best:GEWURZGRANDSCRUSBrand,Sporen(08);RIESSCHOENENBOURG(08’10’12);SylvanerdeRiquewihr.PioneersofAlsaceCRÉMANT;gdCUVÉES:Bartholdi,Julien.Allwinesespgdinvintagesfavouringdrywines,aretrotrend.

Dourthe,Vins&VignoblesB’Xmerchant;widerange,qualityemphasis.NotablyCHXBELGRAVE,LEBOSCQ,LAGARDE.GrandBarrailLamarzelleFigeacimprovingST-ÉMILION.PeyLaTour,DourtheNo1arewell-madegenericB’x,reliablequality.

Drappier,AndréChampOutstandingfamily-runAUBECHAMPAGNE

house.PinotledNV,BRUTZÉRO,RoséSaignée,SignatureBLANCDEBLANCS(0204),Millésimed’Exception(0204),superbprestigeCUVÉEGrandeSendrée(0204’0609’).CuvéeQuatuor(fourcépages).Superboldervintages958582.

DRCCd’OThewinegeek’sshorthandforDOMDELAROMANÉE-CONTI.

Drouhin,J&CieBurgrw★★★→★★★★Deservedlyprestigiousgrowerandmerchant.CellarsinBEAUNE;v’yds(45ha,allbiodynamic)espinBeaune,CHABLIS.Attractivewhites,BeauneClosdesMouchesandLAGUICHEwinesbest.NotablyfragrantredsfromprettyCHOREY-LÈS-BEAUNEtomajesticMUSIGNY,GRANDS-ÉCHÉZEAUXetc.AlsoDDO(DomDrouhinOregon),seeUnitedStates.

Duboeuf,GeorgesBeaujrw★★→★★★MostfamousnameofBEAUJOLAIS,proponentofNouveau.HugerangeofCUVÉESandcrus,consistentovermanyyrs.

DuclotB’Xnégociant;top-growthspecialist.SameownerasPETRUS.DugatCd’Or★★★CousinsClaudeandBernard(Dugat-Py)

makeexcellent,deep-colouredGEVREY-CHAMBERTIN,respectivelabels.Tinyvolumes,espGRANDSCRUS,hugepricesthroughout,espDugat-Py.

Dujac,DomaineCd’Orw★★★→★★★★MOREY-ST-DENISgrowernowwithexceptionalrangeofGRANDSCRUS.Lightercoloursbutintensefruit,smoky,strawberrycharacterfromuseofstems.AlsoDOMTriennesinCOTEAUXVAROIS.

DulongB’Xmerchant.PartofGrandsChaisdeFrance.Dureuil-JanthialBurgrw★★TopDOMinRULLYincapable

handsofVincentD-J,fresh,punchywhites;cheerful,juicyreds.TryMaizières(rw),PREMIERCRUMeixCadot(w).

Durup,JeanChabw★★VolumeCHABLISproducerasDOMdel’EglantièreandCHdeMalignynowalliedbymarriagetoDomColinotinIRANCY.

Duval-LeroyChampDynamicCôtedesBlancsCHAMPAGNEhouse.200haoffamily-ownedv’yds;sourceofgd,crowd-pleasingFleurdeChampagneNV,fineBlancdeCHARD(9604),andexcellentPrestigeFemme(96’00’04).Newsingle-village/-v’ydbottlings,espAuthentisCumières(040609).

ÉchézeauxCd’Or★★★90’9396’99’02’0305’06070809’10’1112’GRANDCRU(37.7ha)nexttoCLOSDEVOUGEOT.Middlingweight,butcanhaveexceptionallyintricateflavoursandstartlingpersistence.BestfromArnoux,DRC,DUJAC,EUGÉNIE,GRIVOT,GROS,Lamarche,LIGER-BELAIR,MUGNERET-Gibourg,ROUGET.

Ecu,Domainedel’Lo(r)wdr(sp)★★★9596020304050609’10’11(12)MeticulousbiodynamicMUSCADET-SÈVRE-ET-MAINEproducer(espmineral-richCUVÉEGranite),GROSPLANT,inclsparklingfromGrosPlant,plusexcellentCABFR.

EdelzwickerAlw★DYA.Blendedlightwhite.DeliciousCH

d’Ittenwiller(10);HUGELGentilistops.EntrayguesetduFelandEstaingSWFrrpw★→★★DYA.

TinytwinAOPs.Ice-coolwhites(zingingCHENIN),zestyreds.★★DOMMéjanassèrewhite,LaurentMousset,(espLaPaucared;willkeep).Richerwhite(Selves)from★★NicolasCarmarans.Alaux(r)andFages(w)bestEstainggrowers.

Entre-Deux-Mers(E-2-M)B’xw★→★★DYA.Oftengd-value,drywhiteB’XfrombetweentheriversGaronneandDordogne.BestCHXBONNET,CastenetGreffier,Fontenille,Landereau,Lestrille,Marjosse,LaMotheduBarryFrenchKiss,Nardique-la-Gravière,Sainte-Marie,TourdeMirambeau,Toutigeac,Turcaud.

Esmonin,DomaineSylvieCd’Or★★★Rich,darkwinesfromfullyripegrapes,espsince2000.Lotsofoakandlotsofstems.NotableGEVREY-CHAMBERTINVIEILLESVIGNESandCLOSST-JACQUES.CousinFrédérichasEstournellesSt-Jacques.

Eugénie,DomaineCd’OrNewownerofformerDOMEngel,boughtbyFrançoisPinaultofCHLATOURin2006.Nowmoreconcentratedwinesathigherprices.Hittingitsstridefrom2008.CLOSVOUGEOTandGRANDS-ÉCHÉZEAUXbest.

Faiveley,JBurgrw★★→★★★★Moregrowernowthanmerchant,withbigholdingsinCÔTECHALONNAISEplustopv’ydsinCHAMBERTIN-CLOSDEBÈZE,CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY,CORTON,NUITSandrecentacquisitionsinMEURSAULTandPULIGNY.Hugelyrevitalisedsince2007.Nowverysucculentstyle.

Faller,Théo/DomaineWeinbachAlw★★★→★★★★FoundedbyCapuchinmonksin1612,nowrunbyCatherineFallerandsonTheo.Outstandingwines,greatcomplexity,nowoftendrier,espGRANDSCRUSSCHLOSSBERG(RIES,esp06’08010’),Furstentum(GEWURZVT09).Winesofgreatcharacterandelegance.EspCuvéeSainteCatherineSsélectiondesGrainsNobleGewurz06’09010.

FaugèresL’docr(p)(w)★→★★06070809’101112LeadingL’DOCAC,developingacru:FaugèresTerroirdeSchiste.Warm,spicyredsfromSYRAH,GRENACHE,CARIGNAN,plusMOURVÈDRE,CINSAULT,grownonschisthills;whitesareMARSANNE,ROUSSANNE,Rolle.Try:DOMSJEAN-MICHELALQUIER,LéonBarral,desTrinités,StAntonin,Ollier-Taillefer,Cébène,Masd’Alézon.Chenaie,Chaberts,Sarabande.

Fèvre,WilliamChabw★★★StarturninCHABLISsinceHENRIOTpurchasein1998.BiggestownerofGRANDSCRUS.LesCLOSoutstanding.Noexpensespared,pricedaccordingly,butconsistencynotguaranteed.

FiefsVendéensLorpw★→★★★MainlyDYAAC.WinesfromtheVendéenrSablesd’Olonne,fromtouristwinestoseriousandage-worthy.CHARD,CHENINBL,SAUVBL,Melon(w),GrolleauGris,CABFR,CABSAUV,GAMAY,Negrette,PINOTN(rp).Producers:Aloha,Coirier,ChMarieduFou,Michon/DOMSt-

Nicolas.FitouL’docr★★0607’0809101112Powerfulredfromschist

hillssouthofNarbonneaswellascoastalv’yds.TheMIDI’soldestACfortablewine,createdin1948,11mths’barrel-ageingandbenefitsfrombottle-age.Gdestatesincl:CHdeNouvelles,DOMBergé-Bertrand,Lérys,Rolland,MariaFita.

FixinCd’Or(w)★★★99’02’0305’06070809’10’1112’WorthyandundervaluednorthernneighbourofGEVREY-CHAMBERTIN.Sometimessplendidreds.Bestv’yds:CLOSdelaPerrière,ClosduChapitre,ClosNapoléon.Growers:CLAIR,FAIVELEY,Gelin,Guyard,MORTETandrevitalizedManoirdelaPerrière.

FleurieBeaujr★★★09’10’11’12TopBEAUJOLAIScruforperfumed,strawberryfruit,silkytexturetotinglethepleasurecentres.RacierfromLaMadonehillside,richerbelow.LookforChapelledesBois,Chignard,CLOSdelaRoilette,Depardon,

Desprès,DUBOEUF,CHdeFleurie,Métrat,Sunier,VillaPonciago,co-op.

FlocdeGascogneSWFrrw★GasconapéritifbasedonunfermentedgrapejuiceblendedwithARMAGNAC.ComparePINEAUDECHARENTES.Gdwithmelon.

Fourrier,Jean-ClaudeCd’Or★★★InthehandsofJean-MarieFourrier,thisGEVREY-CHAMBERTINDOMhasreachedcultstatus,pricingoftopwinestomatch.Profoundyetsucculentreds,espCombeauxMoines,ClosStJacquesandGRIOTTE-CHAMBERTIN.

Francs-CôtesdeBordeauxB’xrw★★0405’0809’10’(11)FringeB’XnexttoCASTILLON.PreviouslyCôtesdeFrancsbutnewACnamefrom2008.Mainlyredbutsomewhite:canbetastyandattractive.Redscanagealittle.TopCHX:Charmes-Godard,Francs,Laclaverie,Marsau,Pelan,LaPrade,PUYGUERAUD.

FronsacB’xr★★→★★★00’010305’060809’10’11

UnderratedhillyACwestofST-ÉMILION;someofthebest-valueredsinB’X.TopCH:DALEM,laDauphine,Fontenil,laGrave,Haut-Ballet,Haut-Carles,Mayne-Vieil,Moulin-Haut-Laroque,Richelieu,laRivière,laRousselle,TourduMoulin,lesTroisCroix,LAVIEILLECURE,Villars.SeealsoCANON-FRONSAC.

Frenchwineconsumptionnowbarelyaglassaday.Britslessthanhalfthat.

FrontonSWFrrp★★101112’AOPNégrettegrape(almostexclusivetoFronton)yieldseasy-drinkingwineswithflavoursofcherries,violets,licorice.Perfectwithcassoulet.Try★★CHXBellevue-la-Forêt,Caze,duRoc,Plaisance(espAlabets),DOMVigueriedeBelaygues,★chxBaudare,Joliet,Bouissel,Boujac,Roumagnac.

GagnardCd’Orw★★★→★★★★Well-knownclaninCHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET.Long-lastingwines,espCaillerets,

BÂTARDfromJean-NoëlG;Blain-GandFontaineGhavefullrangeinclrareCRIOTS-BÂTARDandMONTRACHETitself.Gdvaluebyall.

GaillacSWFrrpwdrswsp★→★★(r,espoaked)08091011(12’)(wsw)05’07’08091011’12’(pwdr)DYA.AOP.Inlandhillregionwitheclecticallydifferentwines;exclusivelylocalgrapevarieties.★★★PLAGEOLES,Causse-Marines,delaRamaye,Peyres-Roses(allbiodynamic),L’EnclosdesRoses;★★DOMSdeBrin,LaChanade,d’Escausses,Lamothe,Laubarel,MasBrunet,Mayragues(biodynamic),Rotier,Sarrabelle,CHXBourguet(wsw),Palvié(r).Gdall-rounders★★MasPignou,DOMSDuffau,Larroque.

Garage,vinsdeB’x(Usually)B’Xmadeonav.smallscale.1990sphenomenon.Onlybestremain(GOMERIE,Gracia).VALANDRAUDnowmainstream,classified.

Gard,VindePaysduL’doc★TheGarddépartementwestofthe

RhôneestuarygivessoundIGPreds,incl:Cévennes,duPontduGard.Duchéd’UzèsAOPfrom2013.

Gauby,DomaineGérardRoussrw★★★PioneeringROUSSILLONproducer,biodynamic.WhiteIGPCÔTESCATALANESLesCalcinaires;CoumeGineste;redCÔTESDUROUSSILLON-VILLAGESMuntada;LesCalcinairesVIEILLESVIGNES.AssociatedwithDOMLeSoula.DessertwineLePainduSucre.Soninfather’sfootstepsdevelopingnewCUVÉES.Aninspirationtoothernewcomers.

GersSWFrrpw★DYAVDPoftensoldasCÔTESDEGASCOGNE,andindistinguishable.

Gevrey-ChambertinCd’Or★★★90’96’9899’0102’0305’06070809’10’1112’VillagecontainingthegreatCHAMBERTIN,itsGRANDCRUcousinsandmanyothernoblev’ydseg.PREMIERSCRUSCazetiers,CombeauxMoines,Combottes,CLOSST-JACQUES.Topgrowers:BACHELET,LBOILLOT,BURGUET,

Damoy,DROUHIN,Drouhin-Laroze,DUGAT,Dugat-Py,Duroché,ESMONIN,FAIVELEY,FOURRIER,Géantet-Pansiot,Harmand-Geoffroy,JADOT,LEROY,MORTET,ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET,Roty,ROUSSEAU,SÉRAFIN,TRAPET,Varoilles.

GigondasSRhôrp★★→★★★78’89’90’95’98’99’00’01’03’04’05’06’07’0809’10’1112’Limestoneescarpmentandstonyclay-sandplainoneastboundaryofSouthernRhôneValley;GRENACHE,plusSYRAH,MOURVÈDRE.Robust,smokywines,bestofferfine,clearredfruit.Ace2010s.Moreoakinsome,espforUSmarket,higherprices,butgenuinelocalfeelinmany.Try:CHdeMontmirail,St-Cosme(swishwines),CLOSduJoncuas(trad),PAmadieu,DOMBoissan,Bouïssière,Brusset,Espiers,Goubert,GourdeChaulé,Grapillond’Or,lesPallières,Pesquier,Raspail-Ay,Roubine,StGayan,SantaDuc,FamillePerrin.Headyrosés.

GinestetB’xGo-aheadB’Xnégociant.Qualitycontrolsforgrape

suppliers.PrincipalbrandsGdeGinestet,MarquisdeChasse,Mascaron.

Girardin,VincentCd’Orw★★→★★★VincentGthemanhasleft,butVincentGthebusinesscontinuesasbeforewithsamewinemakingteamforv.sound,polishedwhitesandcompetentreds.

GivryBurgr(w)★★05’070809’10’1112ToptipinCÔTECHALONNAISEfortastyredsthatcanage.Someprettywhites,too.Best:JOBLOT,CLOSSalomon,FAIVELEY,FLumpp,THÉNARD.

GossetChampOldhousefoundedin16thcentury,makingcomplexCHAMPAGNESinvinousstyle.NowinnewpremisesinÉpernay.V.gdCUVÉEEleganceNV.TraditionalGrandMillésime(02040608’).GossetCelebris(02040608’)isfinestcuvée.RemarkableCelebrisRosé(0509).

Gouges,HenriCd’Orw★★★GrégoryGougescontinuingsuccessofpreviousgenerationwithrich,meaty,long-lasting

NUITS-ST-GEORGESfromarangeofPREMIERCRUv’yds.TryVaucrains,LesSt-Georges,orChaignots.Interestingwhite,too.

GrandCruMeansdifferentthingsindifferentareas.OneoftopBurgundyv’ydswithitsownAC.InALSACE,oneof51topv’yds.InST-ÉMILION,60%ofproductionisSt-ÉmilionGrandCru,oftenrun-of-the-mill.IntheMÉDOCtherearefivetiersofgrandscrusclassés.InCHAMPAGNEtopvillagesaregrandcru.NowanewdesignationinLoireforQUARTSDECHAUME,andanemergingsysteminLANGUEDOC.TakewithpinchofsaltinProvence.

GrandeChampagneSWFrACofthebestareaofCognac.Nothingfizzyaboutit.

GrandeRue,LaCd’Or★★★90’9596’980002’0305’06070809’10’1112’NarrowstripofGRANDCRUbetweenLATÂCHEandROMANÉE-CONTI,ifnotquiteinsameleagueorprice.MONOPOLEofDOMLamarche,newgenerationmakingstrides.

Grands-ÉchézeauxCd’Or★★★★90’939596’99’0002’0305’06070809’10’1112’Superlative9haGRANDCRUnexttoCLOSDEVOUGEOT,maybemoreakintoMUSIGNY.Winesnotweightybutaromatic.VizDRC,DROUHIN,EUGÉNIE,GROS,Lamarche,Mongeard-MUGNERET.

GrangedesPères,DomainedelaL’docrw★★★IGPPaysl’HÉRAULT.CultestateneighbouringMASDEDAUMASGASSAC,createdbyLaurentVailléforfirstvintage1992.RedfromSYRAH,MOURVÈDRE,CABSAUV;white80%ROUSSANNE,plusMARSANNE,CHARD.Original,stylishwines;wellworthseekingout.

Gratien,AlfredandGratien&MeyerChamp★★→★★★BRUT97’9802040608;BrutNV.SuperbPrestigeCUVÉEParadisBrutandRosé(blendoffineyrs).ExcellentquirkyCHAMPAGNEhouse,nowGerman-owned.Fine,v.dry,lasting,barrel-fermentedwine,inclTheWineSociety’shouseChampagne.

Gratien&MeyeriscounterpartatSAUMUR.(GdCuvéeFlamme.)

GravesB’xrw★→★★010405’060809’10’11RegionsouthofB’Xcity.Improving,appetizingredsandclassicSAUV/SÉMdrywhites.Gdvalue.TopCHX:ARCHAMBEAU,Brondelle,CHANTEGRIVE,ClosFloridene,Crabitey,Ferrande,Fougères,Haura,l’Hospital,Léhoul,Magneau,Rahoul,Respide,Respide-Médeville,St-RobertCUVÉEPoncetDeville,Venus,VieuxChGaubert,VillaBelAir.

GravesdeVayresB’xrw★DYA.TinyACwithinE-2-Mzone.Mainlyred,drunklocally.

GrèsdeMontpellierL’docrpwRecentlyrecognizedsubzoneofACL’DOCandaspiringcru.Sprawlingv’ydsinthehillsbehindMontpellier,incl:St-Georgesd’Orques,LaMéjanelle,St-Christol,St-Drézery.TryClavel,TerreMegère,Prose,GrèsStPaul,CHdeFlaugergues,L’Engarran.

Grignan-les-AdhémarSRhôr(p)w★→★★09’10’1112Name-changefromTricastin,provokedbylocalnuclear-planttroubles2008–9.Mid-RhôneAC;limitedqualityspread;bestredshearty,tangy,herbal.Leaders:DOMSdeBonetto-Fabrol,Grangeneuvebest(espVIEILLESVIGNES),deMontine(gdwhite),St-Luc,CHLaDécelle(inclwhiteCÔTESDURHÔNE).

Griotte-ChambertinCd’Or★★★★90’9596’99’0002’0305’06070809’10’1112’SmallGRANDCRUnexttoCHAMBERTIN.Lessweightbutbriskredfruitandageingpotential,atleastfromDUGAT,DROUHIN,FOURRIER,Ponsot.

Grivot,JeanCd’Orw★★★→★★★★HugeimprovementsatthisVOSNE-ROMANÉEDOMinthepastdecade.SuperbrangetoppedbyGRANDSCRUSCLOSDEVOUGEOT,ÉCHÉZEAUX,RICHEBOURG.

Gros,DomainesCd’Orw★★★→★★★★FinefamilyofVIGNERONSinVOSNE-ROMANÉEwithstylishwinesfromAnne

(sumptuousRICHEBOURG),succulentredsfromMichel(ClosdeRéas),Anne-Françoise(nowinBEAUNE)andGrosFrère&Soeur.TheyalloffervalueHAUTES-CÔTESDENUITS,too,andAnnehasastakeinL’DOC.

GrosPlantduPaysNantaisLow(sp)★→★★DYA.ACfromGROSPLANT,best(only)crisplycitric–greatwithoystersandothershellfish.Try:BasseVille,Bossard,Herbauges,Luneau-Papin,delaPreuille.Alsosparkling.

Guigal,EtsENRhôrw★★→★★★★Global-profilegrower-merchant:31haCÔTE-RÔTIEatheart,plusCONDRIEU,CROZES-HERMITAGE,HERMITAGE,ST-JOSEPHv’yds.Merchant:CONDRIEU,Côte-Rôtie,Crozes-Hermitage,HermitageandSouthernRhône.OwnsDOMdeBonserine,VIDAL-FLEURY(fruit,qualityrising).TopCôte-RôtiesLaMouline,LaLandonne,LaTurque(profound,rich,newoakfor42mths,soatypical);allredshavedense,packedflavours.Standardwines:gdvalue,consistent,

espledbyCÔTESDURHÔNEred,white,rosé.Topwhites:CondrieuLaDoriane(oaky),Hermitage.

Hautes-CôtesdeBeaune/NuitsCd’Orw★★(r)05’09’101112(w)09’10’1112ACsforthevillagesinthehillsbehindtheCÔTEDEBEAUNE/NUITS.Attractivelighterredsandwhitesforearlydrinking.Bestwhites:Devevey,Montchovet,Naudin-Ferrand,Thevenot-le-Brun.Topreds:Carré,Cornu,Duband,Féry,GROS,Jacob,Jouan,Mazilly,Naudin-Ferrand,Verdet.Alsousefullargeco-opnrBEAUNE.

Haut-MédocB’xr★★→★★★00’0102030405’060809’10’11Primesourceofminerally,digestibleCAB/MERLOTreds.Somevariationinsoilsandwines:sandandgravelinsouth;heavierclayandgravelinnorth;sturdier.Needage.Fiveclassedgrowths(BELGRAVE,CAMENSAC,CANTEMERLE,LALAGUNE,LATOUR-CARNET).OthertopCHX:D’AGASSAC,Belle-Vue,Lanessan,SÉNÉJAC,SOCIANDO-MALLET.Sixtopcommunes(eg.PAUILLAC)

haveownACS.Haut-MontravelSWFrwsw★★★05’07’08091011’(12’)

SweetestofthethreeMONTRAVELsub-AOPSofBERGERAC.LesssugarythanMONBAZILLACorSAUSSIGNAC.Ageswell.★★CHPuy-Servain-Terrement,★★DOMSMoulinCaresse,gd-valueLibarde.

Haut-PoitouLorpwsp★→★★Topage3–4yrs.ACfromCABSAUV,CABFR,GAMAY,CHARD,PINOTN,SAUVBL.CAVEduHaut-Poitouislargestproducer(60%+;topwinesBrizay,LaFuye).AmpelidaeIGPwinesfrom115ha.

Heidsieck,CharlesChampLegendaryCHAMPAGNEhouse,nowfineunderenlightenednewowners.BRUTRéshasevermorevigorousselection;Vintage0002’0408’.OutstandingBlancdesMillénaires(95’).SeealsoPIPER-HEIDSIECK.

HeidsieckMonopoleChampOnceillustriousCHAMPAGNEhouse.Fairquality.SilverTop(02040608)bestwine.

HengstAlALSACEGRANDCRU.Powerfulwines.ExcelswithtopGEWURZfromZIND-HUMBRECHT,JOSMEYER;alsoAUXERROIS,CHASSELASandPINOTN(latternotgrandcru).

HenriotChampBRUTSouverainNV;BLANCSDEBLANCSdeCHARDNV;Brut040608!;BrutRosé050609.FinefamilyCHAMPAGNEhouse.Elegant,fresh,creamystyle.Outstandinglong-livedprestigeCUVÉELesEnchanteleurs(88’95’020408’).AlsoownsBOUCHARDPÈRE&FILS,FÈVRE,VillaPonciago(BEAUJOLAIS).

HéraultL’docLargestv’yddépartement:91,700ha(in2010),inclFAUGÉRES,ST-CHINIAN,PICST-LOUP,PICPOULDEPINET,GRÈSDEMONTPELLIER,PÉZENAS,TERRASSESDULARZACandL’DOC.SourceofIGPPaysl’Héraultencompassingfullqualityspectrum,frompioneeringandinnovativetobasic.AlsoVDT.

HermitageNRhôrw★★★→★★★★61’66’78’83’85’8889’90’91’95’9697’98’99’0001’03’0405’06’07’09’10’

11’12’Legendary“manly”SYRAHfromstriking133hagranitehilloneastbankofRhône.Red,whiterewardageingover20yrs+.Full,complex,fascinatingwhite(MARSANNE,someROUSSANNE)bestleftfor6–7yrs+.Best:Belle,CHAPOUTIER,J-LCHAVE,Colombier,DELAS,Desmeure(oak),Faurie(purewines),GUIGAL,Habrard(w),JABOULET,MSorrel,Tardieu-Laurent(oak).TAINco-opgd(espEpsilon,GambertdeLoche).

Hortus,Domainedel’L’docrw★★★TopL’DOCDOM.PioneeringproducerofPICST-LOUP,JeanOrliac,nowworkingwithsonYves.StylishwhiteIGPValdeMontferrand;elegantredsBergerieandoak-agedGrandeRés.AlsoredCLOSduPrieurinTERRASSESDULARZAC.

Languedochas19,907haorganicvines(from3,764ha,2001):1,199growers(279).

HospicesdeBeauneCd’OSpectacularmedievalfoundationwith

manyfinev’yds;holdsgrandcharityauctionon3rdSundayinNov,revitalizedsince2005byChristie’sauctionhouse.Individualsnowbuyaswellastrade.StandardsmoreconsistentunderRolandMasse’sstewardship;lookforgd-valueBEAUNECUVÉESorexpensiveGRANDSCRUS,eg.CLOSDELAROCHE,CORTON(r),BÂTARD-MONTRACHET(w).

HudelotCd’Orw★★★VIGNERONfamilyinCÔTEDENUITS.NewlifebreathedintoH-Noëllat(VOUGEOT),whileH-Baillet(CHAMBOLLE)challenginghard.Formermorestylish,lattermorepunchy.

HuetLow★★★★8889’90’95’96’97’02’03’05’060708’09’10’VOUVRAYbiodynamicestate.AnthonyHwang(owner)alsohasKirályudvarinTokaji(seeKirályudvar).Threesinglev’yds:LeHautLieu,LeMont,CLOSduBourg.Greatagers:vintagessuchas1919,21,24,47,59,89,90.Alsopétillant.CHENINBLbenchmark.NoëlPinguet,whoranestatefrom1976,

leftabruptlyearly2012.Whatnext?Hugel&FilsAlrwsw★★→★★★TopAlsacehouseat

Riquewihr.Entry-levelGentil(EDELSWICKER)isadeliciousbargain.Late-harvestwinesareoftensuperb,espGEWURZVENDAGETARDIVE(05)andRIESSÉLECTIONDEGRAINSNOBLES(9909).

IndicationGéographiqueProtegée/IGPThesuccessortoVDP.Nodifferenceinstatus,onlyinunhelpfulname.

IrancyBurgr(p)★★05’09’101112Lightred,madenrCHABLISfromPINOTNandlocalCésar.Bestv’yds:Palotte,Mazelots.Bestgrowers:Colinot,Richoux,Goisot.

IrouléguySWFrrp(w)★→★★★05’0608091011’(12’)BasqueAOP.Increasingproductionofroséforhot-weatherdrinkingmaskstheimportanceofreds(likemilderMADIRANbutstillmacho)andrarerwhites.★★★Ameztia,Arretxea,and★★Abotia,Bordathio,Brana,Etchegaraya,Gutizia,Ilarria,

Mourguy.Excellentco-op(esp★★★Xurid’Ansawhite).JabouletAîné,PaulNRhôrpw19th-centuryowner-merchantat

Tain,soldtoSwissinvestorearly2006,pricesupalot,winesnowtame,international.OnceleadingmakerofHERMITAGE(espLaChapelle★★★,qualityvaries1990son),CORNASSt-Pierre,CROZESThalabert,Roure(sound);merchantofotherRhônes,notablyCÔTESDURHÔNEParallèle45,CONDRIEU,VENTOUX,VACQUEYRAS.WhiteslackRhônebody;drinkmostyoung.Luxury-goodsemphasis,inclnewv.expensiveLaChapellewhite.

JacquartChampSimplifiedrangefromco-op-turned-brand,concentratingonwhatitdoesbest:PREMIERSCRUSCôtedesBlancsCHARDfromitsmembergrowers.FinerangeofVintageBLANCDEBLANCS06050402targetedatrestaurants.LovelyagedRosé(99).V.gdPrestigeBRUTdeNominée.

JacquessonChamp.AbijouCHAMPAGNEhouseinDizymaking

lovelyprecisewines.Outstandingsingle-v’ydAvizeChampCaïn02’04andnewsaignéeRoséTerreRouge(0405).CorneBautray,Dizy020408’,andexcellentnumberedNVcuvées728,730’,731,732,733,734,735,736.

Jadot,LouisBurgrwp★★→★★★★High-performancemerchanthouseacrosstheboardwithsignificantv’ydholdingsinCÔTED’ORandexpandingfastinMÂCONandBEAUJOLAIS;espPOUILLYFUISSÉ(DOMFerret)andMOULIN-À-VENT(CHdesJacques,ClosduGrandCarquelin).Mineralwhitesasgdasstructuredreds.

JasnièresLowdr(sw)★★→★★★020305’060708’09’10(11)VOUVRAY-likewine(CHENINBL),bothdryandoff-dryfromatinybutdynamicv’ydnorthofToursonsouth-facingslopes.Growers:L’AngeVin,AubertlaChapelle,DEBELLIVIÈRE,Breton,leBriseau,Gigou,Janvier,lesMaisonsRouges,Ryke.

JobardCd’Orw★★★VIGNERONfamilyinMEURSAULT.Top

DOMSareAntoineJ,esplong-livedPoruzots,Genevrières,Charmes;andRémiJobardforimmediatelyclassyMeursaultsplusredsfromMONTHÉLIEandVOLNAY.

JoblotBurgrw★★★OutstandingGIVRYDOMwithv.highviticulturalstandards.TryPREMIERCRULaServoisineinbothcolours.

JosephPerrierChampExcellentsmallerCHAMPAGNEhouseatChâlonswithgdv’ydsinMarneValley.Supple,fruitystyle;topprestigeCuvéeJoséphine02★★★★0408’.ImprovedCuvéeRoyaleBrutNVwithlowerdosage;CuvéeRoyaleBlancdeBlancs0204;CuvéeRoyaleRoséNV;BRUT02040608’09’.

JosmeyerAlw★★→★★★Fine,elegant,long-lived,organicdrywines.SuperbRIESgrandcruHengst(06’0810’).Alsov.gdlesservarieties,esp10AUXERROIS.Smartbiodynamist,rigorousbutrealistic.

JuliénasBeaujr★★★05’09’10’11’12Rich,hearty

BEAUJOLAIS,fromsurprisinglyunfashionablecru.Worthdiscoveringeg.Aufranc,Santé,MichelTête,Trenel.

JurançonSWFrwdrsw★→★★★(sw)97’0304’05’07’1011’(12’)(dr)04’05’07080910’11’(12’)SeparateACsforsweetanddry.Allhavegdacidity/richnessbalance.Boutique★★★★JardinsdeBabylon(DAGUENEAU)instyle(andprice)ofitsown.★★CHJolys,DOMSBellegarde,Bordenave,Castéra,Cauhapé,Lapeyre,Larrédya,deSouch,Thou,Uroulat,★★domsBellauc,Capdevielle,Nigri,Guirardel,CLOSBenguères.★Gd-valuedrywhitesfromGanco-op.

KaefferkopfAlwdr(sw)★★★The51stGRANDCRUofALSACEatAmmerschwihr.Permittedtomakeblendsaswellasvarietalwines–possiblynottop-drawer.

Kientzler,AndréAlwsw★★→★★★Small,v.finegroweratRibeauvillé.V.gdRIESfromGRANDSCRUSOsterbergandGeisberg(0608091011)andlushGEWURZfromgrandcru

Kirchberg(0509).Rich,aromaticsweetwines.Kreydenweiss,MarcAlwsw★★→★★★Finebiodynamic

grower,espforPINOTGR(v.gdGRANDCRUMoenchberg),PINOTBL,RIES.Topwine:grandcruKastelberg,ages20yrs060810;alsofineAUXERROISKrittKlevner,gdVENDANGETARDIVE.Useofoaknowmoresubtle.GdRies/PinotGrblendClosduVald’Eléon.AlsoinRhône.

KrugChampGrandeCUVÉE;Vintage9698’0002;Rosé;ClosduMesnil(BLANCDEBLANCS)9295’0002’;KrugCollection76’8185.SupremelyprestigiousCHAMPAGNEhouse.Rich,nuttywines,oak-fermented:superlativequality,soaringprice.VintageBRUTgreatin98’,achallengingyr.££££Closd’Ambonnay(95’969800)Newcodeonlabelgivesdisgorgementdate.

Kuentz-BasAlwsw★→★★Famousgrower/merchantatHusseren-les-Châteaux,espPINOTGR,GEWURZ.GdVENDANGES

TARDIVES,espsuccessfulin0509.LadoixCd’Orw★★02’0305’070809’10’1112Villageat

northendofCÔTEDEBEAUNE,inclsomeCORTONandCORTON-CHARLEMAGNE.Juicyredsandwhitesbothexuberantandmineral.AfteryrsinshadowofALOXE,nowundergoingrevivalinthehandsofChevalier,Loichet,Mallard,Ravaut.

Ladoucette,deLo(r)(p)w★★★0608091011(12)LargestindividualproducerofPOUILLY-FUMÉ,basedatCHdeNozet.ExpensivedeluxebrandBarondeL.SANCERREComteLafond,LaPoussie(v’yderosionunderrepair);VOUVRAYMarcBrédif.OwnsAlbertPic(CHABLIS).

Lafarge,MichelCd’Or★★★★ClassicVOLNAYestaterunbiodynamicallybyFrédéricL,sonofever-presentMichel.Outstanding,long-livedPREMIERSCRUSClosdesChênes,Caillerets,ClosduChâteaudesDucs.AlsofineBEAUNEandPOMMARD.

Lafon,DomainedesComtesBurgrw★★★→★★★★IconicDOMforgreatMEURSAULTandMONTRACHET,withredVOLNAY(espSantenots)equallyoutstanding.TryseparateMâconnaisdomforvalue.DominiqueLalsohasownlabelinMEURSAULT.

Champagne:figurestowatchAtlast,extrafigurestolookatonlabels.Itmaysoundunenticing,butmoreproducersarestartingtoputdisgorgementdatesonCHAMPAGNElabels,andthisisAGoodThing.BRUNOPAILLARDwasfirst,andisnowjoinedbyPhilipponnat,JACQUESSON,CHARLESHEIDSIECK,Moutard,BEAUMONTDESCRAYÈRES,KRUG,LANSON;RUINART,MOËTandVEUVECLICQUOTplantodothesame.It’susuallyonlystatedforvintagewines,butisusefulinformation:thewineagesdifferentlyafterdisgorgement,andneedstimetoroundout.Soithelpsusjudgeifthewineisatitspeak,andthuspreventsexpensive

infanticide.

Laguiche,MarquisdeCd’Orw★★★★LargestownerofLeMONTRACHETandafinePREMIERCRUCHASSAGNE,bothmadebyDROUHIN.

LalandedePomerolB’xr★★9800’01’0405’060809’10’11NortherlyneighbourofPOMEROL.Similarstylebutvariationswithsoilsandwinemaking.Newinvestorsandyoungergenerationabonus.TopCHX:Belles-Graves,BERTINEAUST-VINCENT,Chambrun,LesCruzelles,LaFleurdeBoüard,Garraud,GrandOrmeau,JeandeGué,Haut-Chaigneau,LesHauts-Conseillants,Laborderie-Mondésir,Perron(LaFleur),LaSergue,Siaurac,TOURNEFEUILLE.

Landron(Domaines)Lowdrsp★★→★★★05091011(12)ProducerofbiodynamicMUSCADET-SÈVRE-ET-MAINE–CUVÉES

inclAmphibolite,age-worthyFiefduBreil,ClosdelaCarizièreandgdsparkling–GROSPLANT/PINOTN.2012tinycrop.

Langlois-ChâteauLo★★→★★★TopSAUMURsparkling(CRÉMANTonly)house,BOLLINGER-owned.Alsostillwines,espv.gdage-worthySaumurBlancVIEILLESVIGNES.

LanguedocrpwGeneraltermfortheMIDI,andnowACenlargingCOTEAUXDUL’DOCtoinclMINERVOISandCORBIÈRES,andalsoROUSSILLON.RulesthesameasforCoteauxduL’doc,withperiodforname-changingextendedtoMay2017.ThebottomofthepyramidofMidiACs.Ahierachyofcrusandgrandsvinsisinthepipeline.

LansonChampBlackLabelNV;RoséNV;aceBRUT02’★★★,040608’.ImprovingCHAMPAGNEhouse,partofLANSON-BCCgroup.Long-livedluxurybrand:NobleCUVÉEasBLANCDEBLANCS,roséandvintage;priceybutnobetterthanBrutvintage.Newsingle-v’ydClosLanson(070809).NewExtraAge(blend

of990203)–BlancdeBespgd.Boughtabiodynamicv’ydin2011.

Lapierre,MarcelBeaujr★★★CultMORGONDOMrunbyMathieuLapierre,insuccessiontohislatefather,pioneerofsulphur-freewinemakingintheBEAUJOLAIS.TryalsoidiosyncraticRaisinsGaulois.

LarocheChabw★★Changeofownershipin2009forlarge-scaleCHABLISgrowerandmerchantwithinterestsinsouthofFrance,Chile,SouthAfrica.MajorityownernowGroupeJeanjean.TryGRANDCRURésdel’Obédiencerie.

Latour,LouisBurgrw★★→★★★FamoustraditionalfamilymerchantmakingsoundwhitesfromCÔTED’ORv’yds(espCORTON,CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE),MâconnaisandtheARDÈCHE(allCHARD)andlessexcitingreds(allPINOT)fromCÔTED’ORandCoteauxduVerdon.NowalsoownsHenryFessyinBEAUJOLAIS.

LatourdeFranceRoussr(w)★→★★★Theoreticallysuperior

villageinCÔTESDUROUSSILLON-VILLAGES.EspCLOSdel’Oum,ClosdesFées.BestwinesoftenIGPCÔTESCATALANES.Oldvinesareinspiringnewproducers.

Latricières-ChambertinCd’Or★★★90’939596’99’02’0305’06070809’10’1112’GRANDCRU(7.35ha)nexttoCHAMBERTIN,richifnotquiteasintense.BestfromBIZE,Drouhin-Laroze,Duband,FAIVELEY,LEROY,ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET,TRAPET.

LaudunSRhôrpw★→★★09’10’11’12’FrontrankCÔTESDURHÔNE-VILLAGE,westbank,excellentwhites(apéritifandfood).Early,clearreds(lotsofSYRAH),go-gorosés.ImmediateflavoursfromCHUSCLAN-Laudunco-op.DomPelaquiébest,espstylishwhite.AlsoCHXdeBord,Courac,Juliette,Marjolet,St-Maurice,DOMDuseigneur(biodynamic),PrieuréSt-Pierre.

Laurent-PerrierChampV.gdBRUTNV;RoséNV;Brut02040608’.Dynamicfamily-ownedCHAMPAGNEhouseatTours-sur-

Marne.FineminerallyNV;excellentluxurybrands:GrandSièclelaCuvéeLumièreduMillésime(theextra-specialversionofGrandSiècle:9602)GrandSiècleAlexandraBrutRosé(02).ButUltraBrutfailstoimpress.

Leflaive,DomaineBurgrw★★★★TopbiodynamicwhiteburgundyproduceratPULIGNY-MONTRACHETwithaclutchofGRANDSCRUS,inclLeMONTRACHETandChevalier.Fabulouspremierscrus,suchasPucelles,Combettes,Folatières.MÂCONforvalue(since2004).

Leflaive,OlivierCd’Orw★★→★★★High-qualitynégociantatPULIGNY-MONTRACHET,cousinoftheabove.Reliablewines,mostlywhite,butdrinkyoung.V’ydholdingsnowexpandedwithOlivier’ssharefromfamilyDOM.

Leroy,DomaineCd’Orw★★★★DOMbuiltaroundpurchaseofNoëllatinVOSNE-ROMANÉEin1988.Extraordinaryquality(andprices)fromtinybiodynamicyields.AlsooriginalLeroyfamily

holdings,Domd’Auvenay.Leroy,MaisonCd’Orw★★★★Burgundy’sultimate

NÉGOCIANT-ÉLEVEURatAUXEY-DURESSES.Smallparcelsofgrandoldwinesatpricestomakeyourubyoureyes.

L’ÉtoileJurawdr(sw)sp★★SubregionoftheJuraknownforstylishwhites,inclVINJAUNE,similartoCH-CHALON;gdsparkling.TopgrowerPhilippeVandelle.

Liger-BelairCd’Or★★★→★★★★Tworecentlyre-establishedDOMSofhighquality.ComteLouis-MichelL-BmakesbrilliantlyetherealwinesinVOSNE-ROMANÉE;cousinThibaultmakesplumpredsinNUITS-ST-GEORGES.FormernowalsoinChile.

LignierCd’Orw★★→★★★FamilyinMOREY-ST-DENIS.BestisHubert(eg.CLOSDELAROCHE),nowmanagedbysonLaurent;classywinesfromVirgileLignier-Michelot.

LimouxRoussrw★★ACforgreat-valuesparklingBLANQUETTE

DELIMOUXorbetterCrémantdeLimoux,alsounusualméthodeancestrale.Oak-agedCHARD,alsoCHENINandMauzac,forwhiteLimouxAC.WhiteapotentialcruduL’DOC.RedACsince2003basedonMERLOT,plusSYRAH,GRENACHE,CABS,CARIGNAN.PINOTNinCRÉMANTandforIGP.Growers:DOMSdeFourn,Laurens,desMartinolles,deMouscaillo,RivesBlanques,Barond’Arques.

LiracSRhôrpw★★05’07’09’10’1112’Low-keyneighbourofTAVEL.Medium-bodied,spicedred(canage5yrs+),impetusfromrecentCHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPEownersprovidingbetterfruit,morestyle.Redsbest,espDOMSBeaumont,FamilleBrechet,Duseigneur,Giraud,Joncier,LafondRoc-Epine,Lorentine,Maby(Fermade),AndréMéjan,delaMordorée(best),Rocalière,RoccaMaura,RSabon,CHXBouchassy,Manissy,Mont-Redon,St-Roch,Ségriès,MasIsabelle.Whitesachievefreshness,body(5yrs).

Listrac-MédocH-Médr★★→★★★00’010305’060809’10’11NeighbourofMOULISinthesouthernMÉDOC.FirmclaretsnowroundedoutwithmoreMERLOT.AlittlewhiteACB’X.BestCHX:CapLéonVeyrin,CLARKE,DUCLUZEAU,FONRÉAUD,Fourcas-Borie,FOURCAS-DUPRÉ,FOURCAS-HOSTEN,Mayne-Lalande,Reverdi,SARANSOT-DUPRÉ.

Long-DepaquitChabw★★★BICHOT-ownedCHABLISDOM,inclflagshipGRANDCRUbrandLaMoutonne.

Lorentz,GustaveAlw★★→★★★GrowerandmerchantatBergheim.EspGEWURZ,RIESfromGRANDSCRUSAltenbergdeBergheim,Kanzlerberg.AsfineforagedDOMasyoung,volumewines.

LotSWFr★→★★DYA.IncreasinglyimportantIGPusedwhereAOPrulesforbidsomecolours.Rangesfromambitioustogd-value:★★DOMSBelmont,Sully,TourdeBelfort,to★CLOSd’Auxonne.AlsowhitefromCAHORSgrowers.

LoupiacB’xwsw★★99’01’0203’05’0709’10’11FacesSAUTERNESacrosstheGaronneRiver.Lighterandfresherinstyle.TopCHX:CLOS-Jean,Dauphiné-Rondillon,LOUPIAC-GAUDIET,Noble,DERICAUD,LesRoques.

LubéronSRhôrpw★→★★09’10’1112’Hilly,touristy,new-moneyarea,2,500hav’ydsannextoSouthernRhône.Terroirokay,notgreat.Toomanymodish,technicalwines.SYRAHemphasis.Manywannabes.BrightstarisCHdelaCanorgue.Alsogd:DOMdelaCitadelle,chxClapier,Edem,Fontvert,ORavoire,St-EstèvedeNeri(improving),Tardieu-Laurent(rich,oak),CellierdeMarrenon,Val-Joanis,LaVieilleFerme(rockingvaluewhite).

Lussac-St-ÉmilionB’xr★★00’010305’0809’10’11LightestofST-ÉMILIONsatellites.Co-opthemainproducer.TopCHX:BarbeBlanche,BelAir,Bellevue,Courlat,laGrenière,DELUSSAC,DULYONNAT,Mayne-Blanc,LeRival,LaRose-Perrière.

MacérationcarboniqueTraditionalfermentationtechnique:wholebunchesofunbrokengrapesinaclosedvat.Fermentationinsideeachgrapeeventuallyburstsit,givingvivid,fruity,mildwine,notforageing.EspinBEAUJOLAIS,thoughnotforthebestwines;nowmuchusedinMIDIandelsewhere,evenCHÂTEAUNEUF.

MâconBurgr(p)wDYA.Simple,juicyGAMAYredsandmostbasicrenditionofMâconnaiswhitesfromCHARD.

Mâcon-VillagesBurgw★★→★★★10’1112ChiefappellationforMâconnaiswhites.Individualvillagesmayalsousetheirownnames,eg.Mâcon-Lugny,-LaRocheVineuse,-Uchizy,etc.Gdchoiceofqualityindividualgrowersnow.TryGuillot,Guillot-Broux,LAFON,Maillet,Merlin,Rijckaert,orforvalueco-opsatLugny,PrisséandViré.

MacvinJurawsw★★ACfor“traditional”MARCandgrape-juiceapéritif.

MadiranSWFrr★★→★★★00’01020405’06080910(11)

(12’)GasconAOP,fromeasyandfruitytotraditionaltannickeepers.★★★DOMSBerthoumieu,Capmartin,ChapelleLenclos,CLOSBasté,Labranche-Laffont,Laffitte-TestonandLaplaceyappingatheelsofCHXMontusandBOUSCASSÉ.Alsogd:★★Barréjat,Crampilh,Damiens,DouBernés,MestéBertrand.ForwhitesseePACHERENC-DU-VIC-BILH.

Mähler-BesseB’xFirst-classDutchnégociantinB’X.Lotsofoldvintages.HasshareinCHPALMER.

Mailly-ChampagneChamp★★★TopCHAMPAGNEco-op,allGRANDCRUgrapes.PrestigeCUVÉEdesEchansons(02’04)greatwineforlongageing.V.refinedL’Intemporelle(969599).

GrowoldinGersFrancehasanewMonumentHistorique:it’sthePédebernadev’ydinGers,whichisplantedwith190-yr-oldvinesof20

varieties,inclTANNAT,FERSERVADOUandsevenothersunknownanywhereelse,andnownamedPédebernade1–7.Itwasprobablythesandysoilthatkeptphylloxeraaway.Theownerhopestoopenthev’ydtothepublic–butthegrapesallgototheSAINTMONTco-op.LookforaspecialCUVÉEinthefuture.

Maire,HenriJurarwsw★→★★Thebiggestgrower/merchantofJurawines,withhalfoftheentireAC.Sometopwines,manycheerfullycommercial.Funtovisit.

MalepèreL’docr★DYA.OriginallyCôtesdelaMalepère,nowplainMalepèreAC,nrLIMOUX,forredsthatcombineB’XandtheMIDI:fresh,withatouchofrusticity.Originaldrinking,espCHGuilhem,deCointes,DOMleFort.

Mann,AlbertAlrw★→★★★TopgroweratWettolsheim:rich,elegantwines.V.gdPINOTBL,AUXERROIS,PINOTNandgd

rangeofGRANDCRUwinesfromSCHLOSSBERG,HENGST,FurstentumandSteingrubler.Immaculatebiodynamicv’yds.

MarangesCd’Or(w)★★02’03’05’070809’10’1112SouthernmostACofCÔTEDEBEAUNEwithrelativelytannicreds.GdvaluefromPREMIERCRU.Bestgrowers:Bachelet-Monnot,Contat-Grangé,Chevrot.

MarcGrapeskinsafterpressing;thestrong-smellingbrandymadefromthem.

MarcillacSWFrrp★★CharacterfulAOPfromAveyron:blue-tinged,spicy,soft-fruitwinefromFERSERVADOUgrape.Equallygdwithsausagesorstrawberries.★★DOMSdel’Albinie,duCros,Costes,VieuxPorcheand★Carles-Gervas,laCarolie,gdco-opleadtheway.Bestat3yrsold.

MargauxH-Médr★★→★★★★95969800’01020405’060809’10’11LargecommunalACinthesouthernMÉDOCfamousforitselegant,fragrantstyle.Oncesomnolent;now

muchimproved.TopCHX:BRANE-CANTENAC,DAUZAC,FERRIÈRE,GISCOURS,ISSAN,KIRWAN,LASCOMBES,MALESCOT-ST-EXUPÉRY,MARGAUX,PALMER,RAUZAN-SÉGLA,SIRAN,DUTERTRE.

Marionnet,HenryLorw★★→★★★09’101112HenryandJean-SébastienateasternextremityofTOURAINE,fascinatedbygrapevarieties.Winesincl:SAUVBL(MdeMarionnet–gdvintages)andGamay,espPremièreVendange,Provignage(ungraftedRomorantinvinesplanted1850).Ungraftedwines,incljuicyCôtandmineralCHENINBL.Smallbutgd2012.

MarmandeSWFrrp(w)★→★★★(r)05’0608091011’(12’)BlossomingAOPonthresholdofGascony,featuringtherareAbouriougrape,espfrom★★★cultgrowerDOMEliandaRos.Try★★ChdeBeaulieu,DOMSBeyssac,Bonnet,CavenacandCHLassolle.Co-opimproving.

MarquedéposéeTrademark.MarsannayCd’Orp(w)★★→★★★(r)05’09’10’1112’

ThefarnorthofCÔTEDENUITS.Easy-to-drinkwinesofallthreecolours.Bestareredsfromgiftedproducers,eg.Audoin,Bouvier,Charlopin,CLAIR,Fournier,PatailleandTRAPET.NoPREMIERSCRUSyet,butplansafoot.Roségdwith1–2yrsage.

Mas,DomainesPaulL’docrpw★★Bigplayerinthesouth;320haofownestates,controls800hanrPézenas,alsoLimoux.MainlyIGP.Innovativemarketing.KnownforArrogantFrogIGPrange;LaForge,MasdesTannes,LesVignesdeNicole.RecentpurchaseofDOMCrèsRicardsinTERRASSESDULARZAC,MartinollesinLIMOUX.

MasdeDaumasGassacL’docrpw★★→★★★02030405060708091011Once-pioneeringIGPthatsetnewstandardsintheMIDI,withCAB-basedredsfromapparentlyuniquesoil.Qualitynowsurpassedbyothers,eg.neighbouringGRANGEDESPÈRES.Alsoaperfumedwhiteandsuper-CUVÉEredÉmilePeynaud,roséFrizant,intriguingsweetwineVindeLaurence

(MUSCAT,SERCIAL).Massifd’UchauxSRhôr★★09’10’1112’Cool,woods-fringed

v’ydsofRhônevillagewithtalentedgrowers,decisivelyfruitedwines,noteasytosell.Note:CHSaintEstève,DOMSLaCabotte,Chapoton,CrosdelaMûre(v.gd,gdvalue),delaGuicharde,Renjarde(sleekfruit).

Mau,YvonB’xNégociant,nowpartofFreixenet(Spain).OriginalMaufamilyownerskeptCHXBrown(PESSAC-LÉOGNAN;gdbuy),Preuillac(MÉDOC;improving).

MauryRoussrsw★★→★★★NVTrendingredVDNfromROUSSILLON.GRENACHEgrownonislandofschistinlimestonehills.Muchrecentimprovement,espatMasAmiel.Severalnewestates,eg.DomoftheBee;soundco-op.RANCIOsagebeautifully.RedtablewinesnowalsoACMaury,SECtodistinguishfromdoux.

Mazis-(orMazy-)ChambertinCd’Or★★★90’939596’99’

02’0305’06070809’10’1112’NorthernmostGRANDCRU(9ha)ofGEVREY-CHAMBERTIN,top-classinupperpart;heavenlywines.BestfromDUGAT-PY,FAIVELEY,HOSPICESDEBEAUNE,LEROY,Maume,ROUSSEAU.

Mazoyères-ChambertinCd’OSeeCHARMES-CHAMBERTIN.Méditerranée,VindePaysdeL’docRegionalIGPfromSouthern

Rhône/PROVENCE.Quaffablereds,characterfulwhites:VIOGNIER.OriginallyPortesdelaMéditeranée.

MédocB’xr★★→★★★00’030405’060809’10’11ACforredsintheflatter,northernpartoftheMédocpeninsula.Gdifyou’reselective.Earthy,withMERLOTaddingflesh.TopCHX:Goulée,GREYSAC,LOUDENNE,Lousteauneuf,LESORMES-SORBET,Potensac,Rollan-de-By(HAUT-CONDISSAS),LaTour-de-By,TOURHAUT-CAUSSAN.

Meffre,GabrielSRhôrw★★BigRhônemerchantunderBOISSET/EricBroussecontrolsince2009.OwnsGIGONDASDOM

Longue-Toque.Recentprogresstowardsfruitywines,lessbigoak.Alsobottles,sellssmallCHÂTEAUNEUFdoms.ReliableNorthernRhôneLaurus(newoak)range,espCROZES-HERMITAGE,ST-JOSEPH.

Mellot,AlphonseLorpw★★→★★★★05060708’09’10’11(12)V.gdrangeofSANCERRE(w,espr)benchmarkgrower,smallyields,biodynamicsince2009:LaMoussière(rw),CUVÉEEdmond,GénérationXIX(rw),Single-v’yds:LesDemoisellesandEnGrandsChamps(r),Romains,Satellite(w).LesPénitents(CôtesdeLaCharitéIGP)CHARDandPINOTN.

Menetou-SalonLorpw★★→★★★050607081011(12)Growing465haAOPadjacenttoSANCERRE;similariflighterwhites(SAUVBL)fromv’ydsongentlerhills.Alsosomegdreds(PINOTN).Bestproducers:BOURGEOIS,Clement(Chatenoy),Gilbert(biodynamic),Jacolin,HenryPellé,Jean-MaxRoger,Teiller,TourSt-Martin.

Méo-CamuzetCd’Orw★★★★V.fineDOMinVOSNE-ROMANÉE(note:BrûléesandCrosParantoux),plusGRANDSCRUSCORTON,CLOSDEVOUGEOT,RICHEBOURG.AlsolessexpensivenégociantCUVÉES.

Mercier&CieChampBRUTNV,BrutRoséNV,DEMI-SECBrut.OneofbiggestCHAMPAGNEhousesatÉpernay.ControlledbyMOËT&CHANDON.SoldmainlyinFrance.Qualitynotremarkable.Full-bodied,PINOTN-ledCUVÉEEugeneMercier.

MercureyBurgr(w)★★→★★★0305’09’10’1112LeadingredwinevillageofCÔTECHALONNAISE.Gd,middle-rankburgundy,inclimprovingwhites.TryCHdeChamirey,FAIVELEY,MJuillot,Lorenzon,Raquillet,deSuremain.

Mesnil-sur-Oger,LeChamp★★★★OneofthetopCôtedesBlancsvillages.StructuredmineralCHARDforlonglife.

MéthodechampenoiseChampTraditionalmethodofputtingbubblesintoCHAMPAGNEbyrefermentingwineinitsbottle.

OutsideChampagneregion,makersmustuseterms“classicmethod”orméthodetraditionnelle.

MeursaultCd’Ow(r)★★★→★★★★00’02’0405’06’07’0809’10’1112CÔTEDEBEAUNEvillagewithsomeofworld’sgreatestwhites:savoury,dry,nutty,mellow.Bestv’yds:Charmes,Genevrières,Perrières.Also:Goutted’Or,Meursault-Blagny,Poruzots,Narvaux,Tesson,Tillets.Producersincl:J-MBOILLOT,Boisson-Vadot,MBOUZEREAU,VBouzereau,Boyer-Martenot,CHDEMEURSAULT,COCHE-DURY,Ente,Fichet,Javillier,JOBARD,Lafon,Latour-Labille,MarteletdeCherisey,Matrot,Mikulski,PMorey,PRIEUR,ROULOT.SeealsoBLAGNY.

MidiTheSouthofFrance.BroadtermcoveringL’DOC,ROUSSILLONandevenPROVENCE.Ameltingpot;extremesofquality:levelimprovingwitheveryvintage.Brilliantpromise,butofcoursenoguarantee.

MinervoisL’docr(p)(w)brsw★★05’0607’0809101112

HillyACregion;livelycharacterfulreds,espCHXBonhomme,Coupe-Roses,laGrave,Oupia,StJacquesd’Albas,LaTourBoisée,Villerembert-Julien,CLOSCenteilles,Borie-de-Maurel,SteEulalie,Faiteau;co-opsPeyriac,Pouzols.SeeST-JEANDEMINERVOIS.NewwinesfromBurgundiancoupleGROSandTollotshouldraisethebar.

Minervois-LaLivinièreL’docr★★→★★★QualityvillageandCruduL’DOC.StricterselectionandlongerageingthanMINERVOIS.Bestgrowers:AbbayedeTholomies,BoriedeMaurel,CombeBlanche,ChdeGourgazaud,CLOSCenteilles,Laville-Bertrou,ChâteauSte-Eulalie,DOMl’OstalCazes,co-opLaLivinière.

Misenbouteilleauchâteau/domaineBottledattheCH,property,orestate.Note:dansnoscaves(inourcellars)ordanslarégiondeproduction(intheareaofproduction)areoftenusedbutmeanlittle.

Moët&ChandonChampByfarlargestCHAMPAGNEhouse;enlightenedleaderofv’ydresearchanddevelopment.Owns1,500ha,ofteninbestsites.GreatlyimprovedBRUTNV,fresher,withlesssugareddosage.Recentrunofgrandvintages,esp92950204.ImpressiveDOMPÉRIGNON.BranchesacrossEuropeandNewWorld.

Thegreatest,mostcomplexyearsinChampagnehavethemostcomplexweather.

Mommessin,JBurgrwFamilystillownCLOSDETARTinMOREY-ST-DENISbutsoldBEAUJOLAIS-basedmerchantbusinesstoBOISSET.SpecialityCHdePierreux,BROUILLY.

MonbazillacSWFrwsw★★→★★★★90’95’01’03’05’07’091011’12’BERGERACAOP:someofFrance’sbestsweetwinesoutsideSAUTERNES,incl★★★★Tirecul-la-Gravière.★★★L’AncienneCure,CLOSdesVerdots,LaGrandeMaisonandLes

HautsdeCaillavel.Tryalso★★CHXdeBelingard-Chayne,Ladesvignes,laRayre,Pécoula,Theuletandtheco-op’sChdeMonbazillac.

MondeuseSavr★★DYA.SAVOIEredgrapeandwine.Potentiallygd,deep-colouredwine.PossiblysameasItaly’sRefosco.Don’tmissachance,eg.GBerlioz.

MonopoleAv’ydthatisundersingleownership.Montagne-St-ÉmilionB’xr★★9800’010305’0809’10’11

LargestandpossiblybestsatelliteofST-ÉMILION.Similarstyleofwine.TopCHX:Beauséjour,Calon,LaCouronne,CroixBeauséjour,Faizeau,LaFleur-Carrère,HautBonneau,MaisonBlanche,Roudier,Teyssier,VieuxChSt-André.

MontagnyBurgw★★09’10’1112CÔTECHALONNAISEvillagewithcrispwhites,mostlyinhandsofCAVEdeBuxyandnégociants.Topgrower:Aladame.

MonthélieCd’Or(w)★★→★★★99’02’03’05’0809’10’

1112UpthehillfromVOLNAYbutatouchmorerustic.Bestv’yds:ChampsFulliot,Duresses.BestfromBOUCHARDPÈRE&FILS,COCHE-DURY,Darviot-Perrin,FlorentGaraudet,LAFON,ChdeMonthélie(Suremain).

Montille,deCd’Orw★★★EtiennedeMhasexpandedDOMwithpurchasesinBEAUNE,NUITS-ST-GEORGESandoutstandingVOSNE-ROMANÉEMalconsorts.TopwhitesinclPULIGNY-MONTRACHETCailleretsandfrom2012CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET.OtherinterestsareDeuxMontille,négociantwhitewineventurewithsisterAlix,andCHdePuligny.

MontlouisLowdrswsp★★→★★★89’90’95’96’97’02’03’05’0708’0910’11SisterACtoVOUVRAYonsouthsideofLoire,similarrangeofCHENINBLwines.55%sparkling.OneoftheLoire’smostexcitingACs.Topgrowers:Berger,CHANSON,CHIDAINE,Delecheneau,Jousset,LesLogesdelaFolie,Moyer,Saumon,TAILLE-AUX-LOUPS,Weisskopf.

MontrachetCd’Ow★★★★92’939596’9900’0102’0405’06070809’101112GRANDCRUv’yd(8.01ha)inbothPULIGNY-andCHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET.Potentiallythegreatestwhiteburgundy:strong,perfumed,intense,dryyetluscious.Topwines:LAFON,LAGUICHE(DROUHIN),LEFLAIVE,Ramonet,ROMANÉE-CONTI.DOMTHÉNARDimproving?

MontravelSWFrpwdr★★(r)05’06080910(11)(12’)(wp)DYA.Sub-AOPofBERGERAC.Newrulesspecifyheftyreds.Bestare★★DOMSdeBloy,deKrevel,CHXJoncBlanc,Laulerie,Masburel,Masmontet,Moulin-Caresse.B’X-styledrywhitesandrosés★★fromsameandothergrowers.SweetwhitesareCÔTESDEMONTRAVELandHAUT-MONTRAVEL,inlimitedsub-areas.

MoreauBurgrw★★→★★★Top-classCHABLISfromDomChristianM(tryClosdesHospices)andDOMM-Naudet.SeparateMoreaufamiliesinCHASSAGNEandSANTENAYalso

v.gd.Morey,DomainesCd’Orw★★★VIGNERONfamilyin

CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET,espJean-Marc(Chenevottes),Marc(Virondot),Thomas(fine,mineralBaudines),Vincent(Embrazées,plumperstyle),MichelM-Coffinet(LaRomanée).AlsoPierreMoreyinMEURSAULT,best-knownforPerrièresandBÂTARD-MONTRACHET.

Morey-St-DenisCd’Or(w)★★★90’9396’9899’02’0305’06070809’10’1112’Smallvillage;fourGRANDSCRUSbetweenGEVREY-CHAMBERTINtoCHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY.Gloriouswineoftenoverlooked.Amiot,ARLAUD,CLOSDETART,CLOSDESLAMBRAYS,DUJAC,Jeanniard,LIGNIER,Perrot-Minot,PONSOT,ROUMIER,Taupenot-Merme.

MorgonBeaujr★★★05’0609’10’11’12Firm,tannicBEAUJOLAIScru,espfromCÔTEduPyhillside.Becomesmeatywithage.LesCharmesissofterforearlierdrinking.Try

Burgaud,Desvignes,Foillard,Gaget,Lafont,LAPIERRE,CHdePizay.

Mortet,DenisCd’Or★★★→★★★★ArnaudMortetrefinedlatefather’spowerful,deep-colouredwines:BOURGOGNERougetoGRANDCRUCHAMBERTIN.KeywinesGEVREY-CHAMBERTINEnChamps,PREMIERSCRUSLavautSt-JacquesandChampeaux.

Moueix,J-PetCieB’xrLibourne-basedmerchantandproprietornamedafterlegendaryfounder.SonChristianrunscompany,hissonEdouardincreasinglyprominent.CHXincl:LAFLEUR-PÉTRUS,HOSANNA,Providence,TROTANOY,BELAIR-MONANGE(nowincorporatingMAGDELAINEsince2012).DistributesPETRUS.AlsoinCalifornia(seeDominus).

Moulin-à-VentBeaujr★★★990305’09’10’11’12BiggestandpotentiallybestwineofBEAUJOLAIS.Canbepowerful,meaty,long-lived;caneventastelikefineRhôneorburgundy.Manygdgrowers,espCHduMoulin-à-VentandJADOT’sChdes

Jacques,plusCharvet,Janin,Janodet,LIGER-BELAIR,Merlin.Increasinginterestinsingle-v’ydbottlings.

MoulisH-Médr★★→★★★00’0102030405’060809’10’11TinyinlandACadjacenttoLISTRAC-MÉDOC,withsomehonest,gd-valuewines.TopCHX:Anthonic,Biston-Brillette,BranasGrandPoujeaux,BRILLETTE,Duplessis,DutruchGrandPoujeaux,CHASSE-SPLEEN,MAUCAILLOU,POUJEAUX.

MoutonCadetB’xBiggest-sellingredB’Xbrand(12millionbottles).SameownerasMOUTONROTHSCHILD.Alsowhite,roséandRésGRAVES,MÉDOC,ST-ÉMILION,SAUTERNES.

MugneretCd’Orw★★★VIGNERONfamilyinVOSNE-ROMANÉE.Dr.GeorgesM-Gibourgbest(espÉCHÉZEAUX),alsoGérardM,DominiqueMandreturningtoformDOMMongeard-M.

Mugnier,J-FCd’Orw★★★→★★★★OutstandinggrowerofCHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNYlesAmoureusesandMUSIGNYatCHdeChambolle.Expectfinesse,notblockbusters.Styleworkswell

withNUITS-ST-GEORGESClosdelaMaréchale(reclaimedin2004).

Mumm,GH&CieChampCordonRougeNV;MummdeCramantNV;CordonRouge9800(★★★★)02’0406’RoséNV.Majorgrower/merchant,ownedbyPernod-Ricard.Markedriseinqualityrecently,espinCuvéeR.Lalou99andGRANDCRUVerzenay.

Muré,ClosSt-LandelinAlrw★★→★★★OneofALSACE’sgreatnames;espfine,full-bodiedGRANDCRUVorbourgRiesandPINOTGR.ThePINOTNCUVÉE“V”(0509101112),ripeandvinous,istheregion’sbest.Exceptional09sacrosstherange.

MuscadetLow★→★★★DYA.(Butseealsobelow.)Popular,oftendeliciousbone-drywinefromnrNantes.Shouldneverbesharp,butalwaysrefreshing.Perfectwithfishandseafood.ChooseaSURLIE.BestfromzonalACs:MUSCADET-COTEAUXDELALOIRE,MUSCADETCÔTESDEGRANDLIEU,MUSCADET-SÈVRE-ET-

MAINE.Oftenv.gdvaluebutmanygrowersstrugglingfinancially,nothelpedbytiny2012crop.

Muscadet-CoteauxdelaLoireLow★→★★091011(12)SmallMUSCADETzone(200ha)eastofNantes(bestSURLIE).EspGuindon,CHduPonceau,Quarteron,LesVigneronsdelaNoëlle.

MuscadetCôtesdeGrandLieuLo★→★★★091011(12)WesterlyofMUSCADET’szonalAOP,(300ha)closesttoAtlantic.BestareSURLIEfromeg.EricChevalier,Choblet(DOMdesHerbauges),Malidain.2012v.badlyhitbyfrost,etc.

Muscadet-Sèvre-et-MaineLo★→★★★020305’0609’1011(12)LargestandbestofMUSCADET’sdelimitedzones.Top:Brégeon,Bonnet-Huteau,BernardChereau,Cormerais,Delhommeau,Douillard,DOMDEL’ECU),Gadais,domslaHauteFévrie,Landron,Luneau-Papin,LouisMétaireau,MarcOlivier,Sauvion.Winesfromthesepropertiescanagebeautifully–try

89or99.NBNewCrusCommunaux–extralees-ageingaddsextradimension.Threesofar.

MuscatdeFrontignanL’docsw★★NVSmallACoutsideSèteforMUSCATVDN.Experimentswithlate-harvest,unfortifiedandoak-agedIGPwines.Qualitysteadilyimproving.Leaders:CHXlaPeyrade,deStony,DOMduMasRouge.Deliciouswithbluecheese.

MuscatdeLunelL’docsw★★NVTinyACbasedonMUSCATVDN,lusciousandsweet.Someexperimentallate-harvestIGPwines.

MuscatdeMirevalL’docsw★★NVTinybutdeliciousMUSCATVDNACnrMontpellier.Ahandfulofproducers.

MuscatdeRivesaltesRousssw★★NVSweet,fortifiedMUSCATVDNACwinenrPerpignan.NowapreferenceforMuscatSECIGP,butbestworthseekingout,fromDOMCAZES,CHdeJau,Baixasco-op.

MusignyCd’Or(w)★★★★(★)85’88’89’90’91939596’9899’0102’0305’06070809’10’1112’GRANDCRUinCHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY(11ha).Canbethemostbeautiful,ifnotthemostpowerful,ofallredburgundies.Bestgrowers:DROUHIN,JADOT,LEROY,MUGNIER,PRIEUR,ROUMIER,DEVOGÜÉ,VOUGERAIE.

NatureUnsweetened,espCHAMPAGNE;nodosage.Fineifv.ripegrapes,rawotherwise.

Négociant-éleveurMerchantwho“bringsup”(ie.matures)thewine.

Nuits-St-GeorgesCd’Or★★→★★★★90’9396’9899’02’0305’06’070809’10’1112’Importantwinetown:underratedwines,typicallysturdy,tannic,needtime.Bestv’yds:Cailles,Vaucrains,LesSt-Georgesinthecentre;Boudots,Cras,MurgersnearerVOSNE;variousCLOS–desCorvées,desForêts,delaMaréchale,St-MarcinPrémeaux.

Manymerchants,growers:Ambroise,L’ARLOT,JChauvenet,RCHEVILLON,Confuron,Faiveley,GOUGES,GRIVOT,Lechéneaut,LEROY,Liger-Belair,MacharddeGramont,Michelot,MUGNIER,Rion.

OrléansLorpw★DYA.90haAC(in2006)forwhite(chieflyCHARD),VINGRIS,rosé,reds(PINOTSN,espMEUNIER)fromsmallareaaroundOrléans.NBCLOSStFiacre.

Orléans-CleryLor★DYA.30haseparateACforforsimpleCABFRredsfromsamezoneasACORLÉANS.TryDeneufbourg.

PacherencduVic-BilhSWFrwdrsw★★→★★★AOPforwhitesofMADIRAN.Drinkdrywithin4yrs;keepsweetespifoaked;★★★CHXMONTUSandBOUSCASSÉ,★★chxLaffitte-Teston,Mascaaras,DOMSBarréjat,Berthoumieu,Capmartin,Crampilh,Damiens,Labranche-Laffont,Poujo.

Paillard,BrunoChampBrutPremièreCuvéeNV;RoséPremièreCuvée;CHARDRésPrivée,Brut96’9902.NewvintageBLANC

DEBLANCS95’02.SuperbPrestigeCuvéeNec-Plus-Ultra(95’9602).YoungestCHAMPAGNEhouse.Refined,v.drystyle,espinlong-agedBlancdeBlancsRésPrivéeandNec-Plus-Ultra.BrunoPaillardheadsLANSON-BCCandownsCHdeSarrin,PROVENCE.

PaletteProvrpw★★★TinyACnrAix-en-Provence.Fullreds,fragrantrosésandintriguingwhites.TraditionalCHSIMONE;moreinnovativeChHenriBonnaud.

PatriarcheBurgrwsp★→★★OneofthebiggerBEAUNE-basedBurgundymerchants,purchasedbyCastelin2011.MainbrandissparklingKriter.

PatrimonioCorsrpw★★→★★★ACSomeoftheisland’sfinest,fromdramaticlimestonehillsinnorthCORSICA.CharacterfulredsfromNIELLUCCIO,intriguingwhites,evenlate-harvest,fromVERMENTINO.Topgrowers:AntoineArena,CLOSdeBernardi,Gentile,YvesLecciaatECroce,Pastricciola,

Montemagni.PauillacH-Médr★★★→★★★★89’90’9495’96’9800’01

0203’04’05’0608’09’10’11CommunalACintheMÉDOCwiththreeFirstGrowths(LAFITE,LATOUR,MOUTON).Famousforitspowerful,long-livedwines,stressingCABSAUV.OthertopCHX:D’ARMAILHAC,CLERCMILON,DUHART-MILON,GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE,LYNCH-BAGES,PICHON-LONGUEVILLE,PICHON-LALANDE,PONTET-CANET.

Paysd’Oc,IGPL’docrpw★→★★LargestIGP,formerlyVDPd’Oc,coveringthewholeofL’DOC-ROUSSILLONwithfocusonvarietalwines.Tremendousrecenttechnicaladvances.Mainproducers:Jeanjean,VALD’ORBIEU,DOMSPAULMAS,villageco-ops,plusmanyindividualgrowers.Extremesofquality,bestinnovativeandexciting.

PécharmantSWFrr★★→★★★01’0405’060809(10)(11)(12’)InnerAOPofBERGERAC;ironinsoiladdsdepth.Best:

★★★ChdeTiregand,LesCheminsd’Orient,DOMduHaut-Pécharmant,★★CHChamparel,CLOSdesCôtes,TerreVieille.ModernstylefromDomdesCostes.FormerstarsLaMétairie,DomdesBertranoux,ChdeBiranregainingformerformundernewowners.

Pernand-VergelessesCd’Orw★★★(r)99’02’03’05’06070809’10’1112VillagenexttoALOXE-CORTONcontainingpartofthegreatCORTON-CHARLEMAGNEandCORTONv’yds.ÎledesVergelessesalsofirstrate.Growers:CHANDONDEBRIAILLES,CHANSON,Delarche,Dubreuil-Fontaine,JADOT,LATOUR,Rapet,Rollin.

Perrier-JouëtChampBRUTNV;BlasondeFranceNV;BlasondeFranceRoséNV;Brut02040608HistorichouseatÉpernay,oneoffirsttomakedryCHAMPAGNE;nowbestforgdvintagewinesanddeluxeBelleEpoque(969802’04)(Rosé04)inapaintedbottle.

Pessac-LéognanB’xrw★★★→★★★★90’95969800’01020405’060809’10’11ACcreatedin1987forthebestpartofnorthGRAVES,inclalltheGRANDSCRUS:HAUT-BAILLY,HAUT-BRION,LAMISSION-HAUT-BRION,PAPE-CLÉMENT,DOMDECHEVALIER,etc.Plump,minerallyredsandB’X’sfinestbarrel-fermenteddrywhites.

PetitChablisChabw★DYA.Freshandeasy,lighteralmost-CHABLISfromoutlyingv’yds.LACHABLISIENNEco-opisgd.

PézenasL’docrpw★★L’DOCsubregionfromv’ydsaroundMolière’stown,andaspiringCruduL’DOC.Try:PrieurédeSt-Jean-de-Bébian,DOMSduContedesFloris,desAurelles,StellaNova,Monplézy,Trinités.

PfaffenheimAl★→★★RespectableALSACEco-op.Reliablewines.

ClimatechangeinAlsacemeansdrierRieslings.Lesssulphur,

fewerheadaches.

PfersigbergAlGRANDCRUintwoparcels;v.aromaticwines.GEWURZdoesv.well.RIES,espPaulGinglinger,BrunoSorg,LÉONBEYERComtesd’Eguisheim.Topgrower:KUENTZ-BAS.

PhilipponnatChampNV;RoséNV;BRUT9902CUVÉE152202;CLOSdesGoisses85’929596990204.Smallhouseknownforwell-structuredwines,nowownedbyLANSON-BCCgroup.Remarkablesingle-v’ydClosdesGoissesonaroll.

PicpouldePinetL’docw★→★★DYA.TheMUSCADEToftheMIDI.NewAC,potentialGrandVinduL’DOC,fromoldvarietyPicpoul.Bestgrowers:StMartindelaGarrigue,Félines-Jourdan,co-opsPOMEROLsandPinet.Perfectwithanoyster.

PicSt-LoupL’docr(p)★★→★★★0506070809101112OneofnorthernmostL’DOCv’yds,basedonSYRAH,andinlineforCruduL’docstatus.Growers:Cazeneuve,ClosMarie,de

Lancyre,Lascaux,MasBruguière,DOMDEL’HORTUS,Valflaunès.Numerousnewcomers.SomeoftheMIDI’sbest:stylishandlong-lasting.WhitesareIGPorCOTEAUXDUL’DOC.

PierrevertProvrpw★FormerlyCoteauxdePierrevert.Cool,highareaforeasy-drinkingwinesnrManosque.Offthebeatentrack.DOMlaBlaque,CHXRégusse,Rousset.ACsince1998.

PignierJurarwswsp★★→★★★★Twobiodynamicbrothers,athilltopvillageMontaigu.Eclecticwines,inclPoulsard,Trousseau,PINOTN,SAVAGNIN.ExcellentCRÉMANTdeJura,greatVINJAUNE(99’)andvindeliqueurFrançoisPignier.

PineaudesCharentesSWFrStrong,sweetapéritif:whitegrapejuiceandCognac.

Pinon,FrançoisLowswsp★★★899095969702030405080910’11Excellentorganicproducerofv.pureVOUVRAYinallitsexpressions,inclav.gdpétillant.

Piper-HeidsieckChampCHAMPAGNEhousenowwithgdnew

owner.MuchImprovedBRUTNVandfruit-drivenBrutRoséSauvage04;Brut000204.V.gdCUVÉESublimeDEMI-SEC,richyetbalanced.Piper-HeidsieckRare(esp9902’04)isoneofChampagne’sbest-keptsecrets.

Plageoles,RobertandBernardSWFrrwspOne-offDOMpromotingthelostvarietiesofGAILLAC,provingthattraditionequalsinnovation.Ondencmakesthefantastic★★★★Vind’Autan,★★★Prunelard(adeep,fruityred),Verdanel(drywhiteofunusualpersonality),Duras(spicyred)andasparklingMauzacNATURE.

PlandeDieuSRhôr★→★★09’10’1112Vast,stony,windy-plainRhônevillagenrCAIRANNE.Heady,robust,authentic,mainlyGRENACHEwines.Best:CHlaCourançonne,DOMSAphillantes,Arnesque,Durieu,Espigouette,Martin,Pasquiers,St-Pierre(gdtrad),Vieux-Chêne.

PolRogerChampBRUTWhiteFoilrenamedBrutRésNV;Brut96’

98990002’;Rosé02;BlancdeChard0204,family-ownedÉpernayhousenowwithvinesinAVIZEjoining85haoffamilyv’yds.V.fine,floralNV,newPureBrut(zerodosage)greatwithseafood.SumptuousCuvéeSirWinstonChurchill(96’02).Alwaysareliablebet.

PomerolB’xr★★★→★★★★90’94959698’00’010405’06’0809’10’11TinyACborderingST-ÉMILIONbutnolimestone;onlyclay,gravel,sand.FamedMERLOT-dominated,rich,unctuousstyle.Topestates:LACONSEILLANTE,L’ÉGLISE-CLINET,L’ÉVANGILE,LAFLEUR-PÉTRUS,HOSANNA,LAFLEUR,PETRUS,LEPIN,TROTANOY,VIEUX-CH-CERTAN.Noclassificationandmanagesv.wellwithoutone.

PommardCd’Or★★★90’96’9899’02’0305’06070809’10’1112Potent,tannicwinestoage10yrs+.Bestv’yds:Rugiensforpower,Épenotsforgrace.Growers:COMTEARMAND,J-MBOILLOT,COURCEL,HOSPICESDEBEAUNE,Huber-Vedereau,

Lejeune,DEMONTILLE,Parent,CHdePommard,Pothier-Rieusset.

PommeryChampBRUTNV;RoséNV;Brut000204Historichouse;brandnowownedbyVRANKEN.OutstandingCuvéeLouise(90’0204)andsupplewintertimeBLANCDENOIRS.

PonsotCd’Orw★★→★★★★Idiosyncratic,top-qualityMOREY-ST-DENISDOMnowwith12GRANDSCRUS,fromCORTONtoCHAMBERTINbutespCLOSDELAROCHEandCLOSST-DENIS.TopmarkstoLaurentPonsotforfightingfraudulentbottles.

Potel,NicolasCd’Orw★★→★★★BrandbelongingtoCottinFrères(LabouréRoi),butsince2009withouteponymousNicolas,whonowhasownbusinesses,DOMdeBelleneandMaisonRochedeBelleneinBEAUNE.

Pouilly-FuisséBurgw★★→★★★05’06070809’10’1112TopACofMÂCONregionnowexploringPREMIERCRUclassificationofterroirs;winesfromChaintrésoftest,Fuissé

mostpowerful,Vergissonforminerality.Topnames:Barraud,deBeauregard,Cornin,Ferret,Forest,CHDEFUISSE,Merlin,ChdesRontets,Saumaize,VERGET.

Pouilly-FuméLow★→★★★★05’070809’1011(12)Across-riverneighbourofSANCERRE,similarwines;bestroundandfull-flavoured.TopCUVÉEScanimprove5–6yrs.Growers:Bain,BOURGEOIS,Cailbourdin,Chatelain,DIDIERDAGUENEAU,SergeDagueneau&Filles,CHdeFavray,EdmondandAndréFigeat,Masson-Blondelet,JeanPabiot,JonathanPabiot,Redde,Tabordet,ChdeTracy,Treuillet.

Pouilly-LochéBurgw★★09’10’1112UsuallysoldasPOUILLY-VINZELLES.ClosdesRocs,Tripoz,BretBrosgd,co-opdominantforvolume.

Pouilly-sur-LoireLow★DYA.Historicbutnon-aromatic,CHASSELASwinefromsamev’ydsasPOUILLY-FUMÉ.Only30hainproduction.Best:SergeDagueneau&Filles,Landrat-

Guyollot,JonathanPabiot,Redde.Pouilly-VinzellesBurgw★★09’10’1112Superiorneighbourto

POUILLY-LOCHÉ.Bestv’yd:LesQuarts.Bestproducersincl:BretBros,Valette.VolumefromCAVEdesGRANDSCRUSBlancs.

PremierCruFirstGrowthinB’X;secondrankofv’yds(afterGRANDCRU)inBurgundy.NewsecondrankinLoire:onesofar,COTEAUXDULAYONChaume–expectlegalchallenges.

PremièresCôtesdeBordeauxB’xwsw★→★★0709’10’11SamezoneasCADILLAC-CÔTESDEBORDEAUXbutforsweetwhitewinesonly.Gentlysweetratherthanfull-blown,noble-rottedliquoreux.Qualityvaries.BestCHX:Crabitan-Bellevue,Fayau,duJuge,Suau.

PremiumpremiersBurgundyhasover600PREMIERCRUv’yds,bynomeansall

equal.AnythingcalledCaillerets,indicating“littlestones”,willbetop-class,beitCHASSAGNE,PULIGNY,orVOLNAY.Perrières(biggerstones;Puligny,MEURSAULT,BEAUNE,NUITS-ST-GEORGES,GEVREY)isprettygd,too,whileCharmes(Meursault,CHAMBOLLEandelsewhere)makesengaginglyplumpwines.V’ydscalledCrasofferamoremineralstyle.It’sagdsignifthekingorthedukeortheChurchwereinvolved:lookforCLOSDUROI,ClosdesDucs,CLOSST-JACQUES.

Prieur,DomaineJacquesCd’O★★★MEURSAULTestatewithexceptionalrangeofGRANDSCRUSfromMONTRACHETtoMUSIGNY.Styleaimsatweightmorethanfinesse.

Primeur“Early”wineforrefreshmentanduplift;espfromBEAUJOLAIS;VDP,too.Winesoldenprimeurisstillinbarrel,fordeliverywhenbottled.Caution:onlybuyfromreputablecompanies.

ProducteursPlaimontSWFrBrilliantco-opgoesfromstrengthtostrength,straddlingthreeappellations:MADIRAN,STMONTandCÔTESDEGASCOGNE.UsesonlyauthenticGascongrapes.Hugerange,allcolours,mostly★★,alltastesandpurses.

PropriétairerécoltantOwner-operator,literallyowner-harvester.ProvenceSeeCÔTESDEPROVENCE,CASSIS,BANDOL,PALETTE,LES

BAUX-EN-PROVENCE,BOUCHES-DU-RHÔNE,PIERREVERT,COTEAUXD’AIX-EN-PROVENCE,COTEAUXVAROIS-EN-PROVENCE.

PuisseguinSt-ÉmilionB’xr★★00’010305’0809’10’11SatelliteneighbourofST-ÉMILION;winesfirmandsolid.TopCHX:BelAir,Branda,Durand-Laplagne,Fongaban,GuibotlaFourvieille,DESLAURETS,LaMauriane,Soleil.AlsoRocdePuisseguinfromco-op.

Puligny-MontrachetCd’O(r)w★★★→★★★★02’0405’06070809’10’1112SmallerneighbourofCHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET:potentiallyevenfiner,morevital,floraland

complexwine(thoughapparentfinessecansignaloverproduction).V’yds:BÂTARD-MONTRACHET,BIENVENUES-BÂTARDMONTRACHET,Caillerets,CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET,Combettes,Folatières,MONTRACHET,Pucelles.Producers:J-MBOILLOT,BOUCHARDPÈRE&FILS,CARILLON,CHdePuligny,Chavy,DROUHIN,JADOT,LATOUR,DOMLEFLAIVE,OLEFLAIVE,Pernot,SAUZET.

PuymérasSRhôrw★10’11’12’Respectable,low-profileSouthernRhônevillage,loftyv’yds,straightforwardreds,soundwhites,decentco-op.TryCAVElaComtadine,DOMduFauconDoré,PuyduMaupas.

Pyrénées-AtlantiquesSWFrDYA.IGPforwinesnotqualifyingforlocalAOPsinthefarsouthwest.Esp★★★CHCabidos(superbPETITMANSENGwsw),★★DOMMoncautand★BRUMONTvarietals.Towatch.

QuartsdeChaumeLowsw★★★→★★★★89’90’95’96’

97’02030405’07’0910’11’Tiny,exposedslopesclosetoLayondevotedtoCHENINBL.Loire’sfirstGRANDCRU:v.strictrules.EspBaudouin,BAUMARD,Bellerive,FL,YvesGuegniard,CHPIERRE-BISE,Pithon-Paillé,Suronde.

QuatourzeL’docr(p)w★★DYA.TinypotentialGrandVinduL’DOCbyNarbonne.Almostsingle-handed:CHNotreDameduQuatourze.

QuincyLow★→★★Drinkwithin3yrs.SmallAOP(255ha)ongravelwestofBourgesinCherValley.Citric,quiteSANCERRE-styleSAUVBL.Hail-prone.Growers:Mardon,Portier,Rouzé,Siret-Courtaud,Tatin-Wilk(DOMSBallandors,Tremblay).

RancioRoussThemostoriginal,lingeringanddeliciousstyleofVDN,reminiscentofTawnyPort,inBANYULS,MAURY,RIVESALTES,RASTEAU,wood-agedandexposedtooxygenandheat.Sameflavour(pungent,tangy)isafaultintablewine.

RangenAlMostsoutherlyGRANDCRUofALSACEatThann.

Extremelysteep(average90%)slopes,volcanicsoils.Topwines:powerfulRIESandPINOTGRfromZIND-HUMBRECHT(ClosStUrbain00’0509’)andSCHOFFIT(StTheobald).

RasteauSRhôr(p)(w)br(dr)sw★★07’09’10’1112’Promotedtoownredwineappellationsince2009.Big-flavoured,potentreds,mainlyGRENACHE,espBeaurenard,CavedesVignerons(gd),CHduTrignon,DOMSBeauMistral,DidierCharavin,Collière,CoteauxdesTravers,Escaravailles,Girasols,GourtdeMautens(IGPwinesfrom2010),GrandNicolet,Rabasse-Charavin,Soumade,StGayan,FamillePerrin.GrenachedessertwineVDNqualityonrise(domsBanquettes,CoteauxdesTravers,Escaravailles,Trapadis).

RatafiadeChampagneChampSweetapéritifmadeinCHAMPAGNEof67%grapejuiceand33%brandy.NotunlikePINEAUDESCHARENTES.

RaveneauChabw★★★★GreatCHABLISproducerusingold

methodsforextraordinarylong-livedwines.CousinofDAUVISSAT.Vaillons,Blanchots,LesCLOSbest.

RegniéBeaujr★★09’1011’12ThemostrecentlypromotedandoftenthelightestoftheBEAUJOLAIScrus.Sandysoilgiveseasy,fruitywines.TryBurgaud,DOMSdelaPlaigne,Rochette,Sunier.

ReuillyLorpw★→★★★05’0809’1011(12)Small,improvingAC(186ha)westofBourgesforSAUVBLwhites,plusrosésandVinGrismadefromPINOTNand/orPINOTGRaswellasredsfromPinotN.Best:Jamain,ClaudeLafond,Mardon,Rouze,Sorbe.2012frosted.

Ribonnet,DomainedeSWFrrpw★★HereticChristianGerber(godfathertotheIGPARIÈGE)usesgrapevarietiesfromalloverEuropetomakefascinatingvarietalsandblendsinallcolours.

Riceys,RosédesChampp★★★DYA.MinuteACinAUBEforanotablePINOTNrosé.Principalproducers:ABonnet,JacquesDefrance.

RichebourgCd’Or★★★★90’93’9596’9899’0002’0305’06070809’10’1112’VOSNE-ROMANÉEGRANDCRU.8ha.Fabulous,magicalburgundy;vastlyexpensive.Growers:DRC,GRIVOT,GROS,HUDELOT-Noëllat,LEROY,LIGER-BELAIR,MÉO-CAMUZET.

RimageRoussIncreasinglyfashionabletrendforavintageVDN.Super-fruityfordrinkingyoung.ThinkgdRubyPort.

Rion,PatriceCd’Or★★★Prémeaux-basedDOMwithexcellentNUITS-ST-GEORGESholdings,espCLOSdesArgillières,ClosSt-MarcandCHAMBOLLE.NotealsoDomDanielRinPrémeaux,B&ARioninVOSNE-ROMANÉE.

RivesaltesRoussrwbrdrsw★★NV.Fortifiedwine,nrPerpignan.Strugglingbutworthwhiletradition.Top:DOMCAZES,CHdeJau,Sarda-Malet,desSchistes,Vaquer.Thebestdeliciousandoriginal,espoldRANCIOs.SeeMUSCATDERIVESALTES.

Roche-aux-Moines,LaLowsw★★→★★★89’90’95’96’

97’99020305’060708’0910’11A33hacruofSAVENNIÈRES,ANJOU.Newstrictrules.Potentiallypowerful,intenselyminerallywine.Growersincl:LeClosdelaBergerie(Joly),DOMdesForges,FL,DamienLaureau,CHPIERRE-BISE.

Roederer,LouisChampBRUTPremierNV;RichNV;Brut0002’0405;BLANCDEBLANCS9799000204;BrutRosé06’07Top-drawerfamily-ownedhousewithenviable230haestateoftopv’yds.MagnificentCristal(canbegreatestofallprestigeCUVÉES,viz88’90’9502’04)andCristalRosé(96’02’0405).BrutNatureprojectshelvedforthemoment.AlsoownsDEUTZ,DELAS,CHXDEPEZ,PICHON-LALANDE.SeealsoCalifornia.

Rolland,MichelB’xUbiquitousandfashionableconsultantwinemakerandMERLOTspecialistworkinginB’Xandworldwide,favouringsuper-ripeflavoursasrecommendedbyRobertParker,Jr.

RollyGassmannAlwsw★★Distinguishedgrowerat

Rorschwihr,espfromMoenchreben.Off-dryhousestyleculminatesingreatrichGEWURZCUVÉEYves(0506080910).Nowbiodynamic,andfinerforit.

Romanée,LaCd’Or★★★★96’99’000102’0305’06070809’10’1112’TiniestGRANDCRUinVOSNE-ROMANÉE(0.85ha),MONOPOLEofComteLIGER-BELAIR.Exceptionallyfine,perfumed,intenseandunderstandablyexpensive.

Romanée-Conti,Domdela/DRCCd’Orw★★★★GrandestestateinBurgundy.InclthewholeofROMANÉE-CONTIandLATÂCHE,majorpartsofÉCHÉZEAUX,GRANDS-ÉCHÉZEAUX,RICHEBOURG,ROMANÉE-ST-VIVANTandatinypartofMONTRACHET.CORTONisnewfrom2009.Crown-jewelprices(ifyoucanbuythematall).Keeptopvintagesfordecades.

Romanée-Conti,LaCd’Or★★★★78’85’88’89’90’93’9596’979899’000102’0305’060709’10’1112’A1.8haMONOPOLEGRANDCRUinVOSNE-ROMANÉE;450cases/annum.

Themostcelebratedandexpensiveredwineintheworld,withreservesofflavourbeyondimagination.Cellarfordecadesforbestresults.

Romanée-St-VivantCd’Or★★★★90’939596’99’02’0305’06070809’10’1112’GRANDCRUinVOSNE-ROMANÉE(9.4ha).DownslopefromLAROMANÉE-CONTI,hauntinglyperfumed,withintensitymorethanweight.Growers:ARLOT,CATHIARD,JJConfuron,DRC,Follin-Arbelet,HUDELOT-Nöellat,LATOUR,LEROY.

RosackerAlGRANDCRUatHunawihr.MakessomeofbestRIESinALSACE(CLOSSTE-HUNE,SIPP-MACK).

Roséd’AnjouLop★→★★DYA.Pale,slightlysweetrosé(Grolleaugrapedominates)usuallysoldonpricebutsomegd,esp:MarkAngeli,ClaudeNell,DOMSdelaBergerie,lesGrandesVignes,desSablonnettes.

RosédeLoireLop★→★★DYA.ThedriestofANJOU’srosés:

sixvarieties,espGAMAYandGrolleau.ACtechnicallycoversSAUMURandTOURAINE.Best:Bablut,Ogereau,CHPIERRE-BISE,Richou.Refreshingsummerwine.

RosetteSWFrws/sw★★DYA.DwarfAOP,birthplaceofBERGERAC,makesfragrantmoelleuxapéritifwines,perfectwithfoiegras.Try★★CLOSRomain,CHXPuypezat-Rosette,Combrillac,Spingulèbre,DOMSdelaCardinolle,deCoutancie,duGrand-Jaure.

Rossignol-TrapetBurgr★★★EquallybiodynamiccousinsofDOMTRAPET,withhealthyholdingsofGRANDCRUv’yds,esp.CHAMBERTIN.Gdvalueacrosstherange,fromGEVREYVIEILLESVIGNESup.

Rostaing,RenéNRhôrw★★★95’99’01’05’06’07’09’10’1112’CÔTE-RÔTIE8haDOM:old,centralv’yds;threetight-knit,silk-fruitedwines,allv.fine,wait4–5yrs.EnticingCôteBlonde(5%VIOGNIER),alsoLaLandonne(grounded,darkfruits,15–20

yrs).Purefruit,somecarefulnewoak.Decant.Intricate,unshowyCONDRIEU,alsoL’DOCDomPuechNoble(rw).

Rouget,EmmanuelCd’Or★★★★InheritorofthelegendaryestateofHenriJayerinÉCHÉZEAUX,NUITS-ST-GEORGES,VOSNE-ROMANÉE.Top:Vosne-RomanéeCrosParantoux.

Roulot,DomaineCd’Ow★★★→★★★★OutstandingMEURSAULTproducer;finerangeofv’ydsites,espTessonsCLOSdeMonPlaisirandPREMIERSCRUSeg.Bouchères,Perrières.Morev’ydsfrom2011.

Roumier,GeorgesCd’Or★★★★ReferenceDOMforBONNES-MARESandotherbrilliantChambollewinesincapablehandsofChristopheR.Long-livedwinesbutstillattractiveearly.

Rousseau,DomaineArmandCd’Or★★★★UnmatchableGEVREY-CHAMBERTINDOMwiththrillingCLOSST-JACQUESandGRANDSCRUS.Unchanging,fragrantPINOTofextraordinaryintensity.Thewholerangeisgdnow.

RoussettedeSavoieSavw★★DYA.TastiestfreshwhitefromsouthofLakeGeneva.

RoussillonRoussLeadingregionfortraditionalVDN(eg.MAURY,RIVESALTES,BANYULS).YoungervintageRIMAGEwinesarecompetingwithagedRANCIOwines.Alsofinetablewines.SeeCÔTESDUROUSSILLON(andCÔTESDUROUSSILLON-VILLAGES),COLLIOURE,newACMAURYandIGPCÔTESCATALANES.RegionincludedunderACL’DOC.

Ruchottes-ChambertinCd’Or★★★★90’93’9596’9899’0002’0305’06070809’10’1112’Tiny(3.3ha)GRANDCRUneighbourofCHAMBERTIN.Lessweightybutethereal,intricate,lastingwineofgreatfinesse.Topgrowers:MUGNERET-Gibourg,ROUMIER,ROUSSEAU.

RuinartChamp“R”deRuinartBRUTNV;RuinartRoséNV;“R”deRuinartBrut(9902’04).Oldesthouse,ownedbyMoët-Hennessy.Alreadyhighstandardsgoinghigherstill.Rich,

elegantwines.PrestigeCUVÉEDomRuinartisoneofthetwobestvintageBLANCDEBLANCSinCHAMPAGNE(viz88’95’9602’).DRRoséalsov.special(90’9602’).NVBlancdeBlancscouldbebetter.

RullyBurgrw★★(r)09’10’12(w)09’10’12CÔTECHALONNAISEvillage.Whitesarelight,fresh,tasty,gd-value.Redsalsofruitforward.TryDevevey,DUREUIL-JANTHIAL,FAIVELEY,Jacqueson,ClaudieJobard,Ninot,Rodet,Sounit.

SabledeCamargueL’docrpw★DYA.UsedtobecalledSablesduGolfeduLion.IGPfromMediterraneancoastalsand-dunes:esppinkGrisdeGrisfromCARIGNAN,CINSAULT.GiantListeldominates,butsmallgrowersdeveloping.

SabletSRhôr(p)w★★09’10’11’12’FunwinesfromimprovingCÔTESDURHÔNE-VILLAGE.Sandysoils,red-berryreds,espCAVEco-opGravillas,DOMSdeBoissan,Espiers,LesGoubert,Piaugier,Roubine.Gdfullwhitessuitapéritifsand

food.St-AmourBeaujr★★09’10’11’12Northernmostcruof

BEAUJOLAIS:light,fruity,resistible(excepton14Feb).Growerstotry:Janin,Patissier,Revillon.

St-AubinCd’Orw★★★(r)05’0809’10’1112(w)070809’10’1112Finesourceforlively,refreshingwhites,adjacenttoPULIGNYandCHASSAGNE,alsoprettyreds.Bestv’yds:EnRemilly,MurgersDentsdeChien.Bestgrowers:JCBachelet,COLIN,Lamy,Prudhon.

St-BrisBurgw★DYA.NeighbourtoCHABLIS.UniqueACforSAUVBLinBurgundy.Fresh,lively,worthkeepingfromJ-HGoisot.

St-ChinianL’docr★→★★★05’0607’0809’101112HillyareaofgrowingreputationinL’DOC.ACforred(since1982)andforwhite(since2005).InclcrusofBerlouandRoquebrun.Warm,spicysouthernreds,basedonSYRAH,GRENACHE,

CARIGNAN.Gdco-opRoquebrun;CHdeViranel,DOMSMadura,Rimbaud,Navarre,BorielaVitarèle,laDournie,desJougla,ClosBagatelle,MasChampartandmanyothers,newandold.

Ste-Croix-du-MontB’xwsw★★9899’01’0203’05’0709’10’11SweetwhiteACfacingSAUTERNESacrosstheriverGaronne.Worthtryingthebest,ie.CHXCrabitan-Bellevue,Loubens,duMont,Pavillon,laRame.

St-ÉmilionB’xr★★→★★★★959698’00’01030405’0809’10’11LargeMERLOT-dominateddistrictonB’X’sRightBank.St-ÉmilionPremierGRANDCRUClasséthetopdesignation.Warm,full,roundedstyle(candrinkearly);thebestfirmandv.long-lived.TopCHX:ANGÉLUS,AUSONE,CANON,CHEVALBLANC,CLOSFOURTET,FIGEAC,PAVIE.FormerGARAGISTESLAMONDOTTEandVALANDRAUDnowclassified.

St-EstèpheH-Médr★★→★★★★89’90’9495’96’9800’0102030405’060809’10’11MostnortherlycommunalACin

theMÉDOC.Solid,structuredwines.TopCHX:COSD’ESTOURNEL,MONTROSE,CALON-SÉGURhavehadenormousinvestmentrecently.Alsomanytopunclassifiedestateseg.HAUT-MARBUZET,MEYNEY,ORMES-DE-PEZ,DEPEZ,PHÉLAN-SÉGUR.

Ste-VictoireProvrp★★SubzoneofCÔTESDEPROVENCEfromsouthernslopesofMontagneSte-Victoire.Dramaticscenery,gdwine.TryMasdeCadenet,Mauvan.

St-GallChampBRUTNV;ExtraBrutNV;BrutBLANCDEBLANCSNV;BrutRoséNV;BrutBlancdeBlancs0204;CUVÉEOrpaleBlancdeBlancs9596’0204.BrandusedbyUnion-CHAMPAGNEco-op:topChampagnegrowers’co-opatAVIZE.Fine-valuePierreVaudonNV.

St-Georges-St-ÉmilionB’xr★★00’010305’0809’10’11MinisculeST-ÉMILIONsatellite.Usuallygdquality.BestCHX:Calon,MACQUIN-ST-GEORGES,ST-GEORGES,TOURDUPAS-ST-GEORGES,VieuxMontaiguillon.

St-GervaisSRhôr(p)(w)★09’10’1112’Limitedchoice,medium-qualitywestbankRhônevillage.Reasonableco-op,butclearbestistop-grade,long-lived(10yrs+)DOMSte-Annered(firm,strongMOURVÈDRElicoriceflavours);gdVIOGNIER.

St-JeandeMinervoisL’docwsw★★FinesweetVDNMUSCAT.Muchrecentimprovement,espfromDOMdeBarroubio,MichelSigé,CLOSduGravillas,ClosBagatelle,villageco-op.

St-JosephNRhôrw★★99’01’03’05’06’07’09’10’11’1265kmofgranitev’ydsalongwestbankofNorthernRhône.SYRAHreds.Oldest,bestzonenrTournon:stylishred-fruitedwines;furthernorthdarker,pepperyflavours,moreoak.Morecomplete,structuredwinesthanCROZES-HERMITAGE,espfromCHAPOUTIER(LesGranits),Gonon(topclass),BGripa,GUIGAL(lieu-ditSt-Joseph);alsoJ-LCHAVE,Chèze,Courbis,Coursodon,Cuilleron,Delas,J&EDurand,BFaurie(pure),Faury,Gaillard,PMarthouret,Monier-Perréol(organic),APerret,

NicolasPerrin,Vallet,FVillard.Gdfood-friendlywhite(mainlyMarsanne),espBarge,CHAPOUTIER(LesGranits),Cuilleron,Gonon(fab),Gouye,BGripa,Faury,APerret.

St-JulienH-Médr★★★→★★★★89’90’9495’96’9800’0102030405’060809’10’11Smallmid-MÉDOCcommunalACdominatedby11classified(1855)estates,inclthreeLéovilles,BEYCHEVELLE,DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU,GRUAUD-LAROSE,etc.Theepitomeofharmonious,fragrant,savouryredwine.

SaintMontSWFrrpw★★(r)09101112’(pw)DYA.FormerlyCôtesdeSaintMont:AOPinGers,almostamonopoleofPRODUCTEURSPLAIMONT.OtherwisefromDOMdesMaouries,andfromsaxophonistJ-LGaroussia(DOMdeTuret).NicemoelleuxfromDomdeBartat.

St-Nicolas-de-BourgueilLorp★→★★★89’90’9596’02’0305’060809’1011CompanionappellationtoBOURGUEILIdenticalwinesfromCABFR.Mostlygravelsoils.Rangesfrom

easy(sand/gravel)toage-worthy(limestoneslopes).Try:YANNICKAMIRAULT,Cognard,David,Delanoue,Lorieux,FrédéricMabileau,LaurentMabileau,Mabileau-Rezé,Taluau-Foltzenlogel,Vallée.

St-PérayNRhôwsp★★08’09’10’11’12’UnderratedwhiteRhône(mostlyMARSANNE)from60hahillygranite,limev’ydsoppositeValence.Alittleméthodechampenoise–worthtrying(J-LThiers).Stillwhiteshouldhavecut,besmoky,stylish,butnewschooloffatwinesfromv.ripefruitplusoak.Best:SChaboud,CHAPOUTIER,CLAPE,Colombo,Cuilleron(fat),BGripa(v.gd),J-LThiers,TAINco-op,duTunnel,Voge(oak).

St-PourçainMassCrpw★→★★DYA.AC(640ha)northofVichy.LightredandroséfromGAMAYandPINOTN(AOPrulesstupidlyforbidpurePINOTN),whitefromlocalTressalierand/orCHARDorSAUVBL.Growers:DOMdeBellevue,Berioles,Grosbot-Barbara,Laurent,Nebout,Pétillat,Ray,andgdco-op

(VIGNERONSdeSt-Pourçain)withrangeofstyles,incldrink-me-upCUVÉEFicelle.

St-RomainCd’Orw★★(w)09’10’1112Crisp,mineralwhitesandclean-cutredsfromvinestuckedawayinthebackoftheCÔTEDEBEAUNE.PREMIERCRUv’ydsunderdiscussion.AlainGrasbest.AlsoBuisson,DeChassorney.

St-VéranBurgw★★09’10’1112ACoutsidePOUILLY-FUISSÉwithvariableresults,dependingonsoilandproducer.Bestareexciting.DUBOEUF,DeuxRoches,Poncetysforvalue,Cordier,Corsin,Merlinfortopquality.

SalonChamp★★★★TheoriginalBLANCDEBLANCS,fromLEMESNILintheCôtedesBlancs.Tinyquantities.Awesomereputationforlong-livedwines–intruth,sometimesinconsistentbutonsongrecently,viz96’97’9902’.Occasionalreleasesofoldwinesfromcellars,butnottothelikesofyouorme.

SancerreLo(r)(p)w★→★★★05’08’09101112BenchmarkSAUVBL,oftenmorearomaticandvibrantthanPOUILLY-FUMÉ.Bestwinesage10yrs+.Nowmemorablereds(PINOTN).Rosérarelyworthprice.Best:Boulay,BOURGEOIS,Cotat,FrançoisCrochet,LucienCrochet,AndréDezat,Dionysia,Fouassier,ThomasLaballe,ALPHONSEMELLOT,MerlinCherrier,Mollet,VincentPinard,Pascal&NicolasReverdy,ClaudeRiffault,Jean-MaxRoger,Roblin,Vacheron,AndréVatan,MichelVattan.2012:nr-normalcrop.

SantenayCd’Or(w)★★★99’02’0305’06070809’1112SturdyredsfromspavillagesouthofCHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET.Bestv’ydsmoresucculent:LaComme,LesGravières,CLOSRousseau,ClosdeTavannes.Increasinginterestinwhites.Top:Belland,GIRARDIN,Jessiaume,Lequin-Colin,MOREAU,VMOREY,Muzard,Vincent.

SaumurLorpwsp★→★★★05’06070809’10’11Umbrella

ACforwhitesfromlighttoserious,mainlyeasyredsexceptSAUMUR-CHAMPIGNYzone,pleasantrosés,majorsparklingproduction:CRÉMANTandSaumurMousseux.Saumur-Le-Puy-Notre-DamenewAOPforCABFRredscovering17communes:misleadinglywide.Producers:BOUVET-LADUBAY,CHAMPSFLEURIS,AntoineFoucault,René-HuguesGay,Guiberteau,CLOSMélaric,Paleine,St-Just,CLOSROUGEARD,CHXDEVILLENEUVE,Parnay,Yvonne;CAVEdesVIGNERONSdeSaumur.

Saumur-ChampignyLor★★→★★★9596’9702’0305’0608’09’1011Nine-communesuperiorACforCABFR,ages15–20yrsingdvintages.LookforBrunoDubois,CHXdeTargé,DEVILLENEUVE;CLOSCristal,ClosROUGEARD,CHAMPSFLEURIS,delaCune,Filliatreau,Hureau,Legrand,Nerleux,RochesNeuves,St-Just,AntoineSanzay,Vadé,ValBrun;CAVEdesVIGNERONSdeSaumur.

SaussignacSWFrwsw★★→★★★05’0607’091011(12’)

AOP.AdjoiningMONBAZILLAC,withatouchmoreacidity.Best:★★★DOMSdeRichard,LaMaurigne,LesMiaudoux,Closd’Yvigne,Lestevénie,★★CHXLeChabrier,Court-les-Mûts,LePayral,LeTap,Tourmentine.

SauternesB’xwsw★★→★★★★83’86’88’89’90’959697’9899’01’0203’05’07’09’10’11’Districtoffivevillages(inclBARSAC)thatmakeFrance’sbestsweetwine.Strong,luscious,golden.Spateofgreatyrsrecently.Stillundervaluedandunderappreciated.TopCHX:D’YQUEM,GUIRAUD,LAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY,RIEUSSEC,SUDUIRAUT,LATOURBLANCHE,etc.DrywinescannotbesoldasSauternes.

Sauzet,EtienneCd’Ow★★★LeadingPULIGNYDOMwithsuperbPREMIERSCRUS(Combettes,Folatières)andGRANDSCRUS(BÂTARD,etc).Fresh,livelywines.

SavennièresLowdrsw★★★→★★★★89’90’9596’97’9902’0305’060708’0910’11SmallANJOUdistrictforfine,

verymineral,long-livedwhites(CHENINBL).BAUMARD,Closel,CLOSdeCoulaine(seeCHPIERRE-BISE),Chd’Epiré,FL,YvesGuigniard,DamienLaureau,LoïcMahé,Mathieu-Tijou,EricMorgat,VincentOgereau,Pithon-Paillé,chxSoucherie,Varennes.Topsites:COULÉEDESERRANT,ROCHE-AUX-MOINES,ClosduPapillon.

Savigny-lès-BeauneCd’Or(w)★★★99’02’0305’070809’10’1112ImportantvillagenexttoBEAUNE;similarmid-weightwines,shouldbedeliciousandlively;canberustic.Topv’yds:Dominode,Guettes,Lavières,Marconnets,Vergelesses;growersincl:Bize,Camus,ChandondeBriailles,CLAIR,Ecard,Girard,Guyon,LEROY,Pavelot,TOLLOT-BEAUT.

Savoierwsp★★DYA.Alpineareawithlight,drywineslikesomeSwissorminorLoires.APRÉMONT,CRÉPY,SEYSSELbest-knownwhites;Roussettemoreinteresting.AlsogdMondeusered.

SchlossbergAlGRANDCRUatKientzheimfamedsince15thcentury.Glorious,compellingRIESfromFALLER.

Schlumberger,DomainesAlwsw★→★★★Vast,top-qualityALSACEDOMatGuebwillerowningapprox1%ofallALSACEv’yds.HoldingsinGRANDSCRUSKitterlé,Kessler,Saering(08’★★★)andSpiegel.Richwines.RareRIES,signatureCUVÉEErnestandnowPINOTGRGrandCruKessler(09’1012).

Southwestgrowerstowatchin2013DominiqueAndiran(DOMHaut-Campagnau,IGPCÔTESDEGASCOGNE)Winesoutofmainstream,eccentric,biodynamic,delicious;musttry.DamienBonnet(DomBrin,GAILLAC)RapidlyrisingtothetopofthisAOP.Noteespdryandwhites(PierreBlanches:Mauzac/Lendel’El)andredAnthocyanes(Braucol/SYRAH).

Véronique&FrédériqueBroutet(DomdeBeyssac,Marmande)Excitingnewbiodynamicproducer,usingAbouriouandMALBECgrapestodistinguishitselffromB’X.FrancisCabrel(DomduBoiron,IGPAgenais)Heartystyleofripefruit,spice,andwell-balanceduseofoak.SébastienClauzel&CécileSabah(DomGutizia,IROULÉGUY)Newindependent.Gdworkinthecellarpromisessteadydevelopment.Bruno&AnneDuffau(DomDuffau,Gaillac)New;qualityatreasonableprices.AlainFalguières(Domdel’Albinie,MARCILLAC)20%Prunelardgrapesinblendfollowedbycleverageinginbarrels,addsnoveltyandperhapsanewstyletoMarcillac.Monique&BertrandGaye(DomMestéBertrand,MADIRAN)Classicv’ydimprovingfast.Nice,peachydrPACHERENCandfruityentry-levelred.EugèneLismonde(TourdeBelfort,IGPLOT)Carefullyand

professionallymade(residentoenologue)blends(eg.SAUV/CHARD).Traditionalandhigh-quality.

SchoenenbourgAlV.rich,successfulRiquewihrGRANDCRU:PINOTGR,RIES,v.fineVENDANGETARDIVEandSÉLECTIONDESGRAINSNOBLES,espfromDOPFFAUMOULIN.Alsov.gdMUSCAT.

Schoffit,DomaineAlwsw★★→★★★EclecticColmargrower.ExcellentvendangetardiveGEWURZGRANDCRURANGENClosStTheobald(00’050609’10)onvolcanicsoil.Alsorare,aceCHASSELAS,fineRIESSonnenberg(08’10’).

SecLiterallymeans“dry”,thoughCHAMPAGNEsocalledismedium-sweet(andbetteratbreakfast,teatimeandweddingsthanBRUT).

SéguretSRhôrpw★★09’10’1112’Picture-postcardProvençalhillsidevillagenrGIGONDAS.V’ydscombineplainandheights.MainlyGRENACHE,peppery,directreds,somefull-

on;clear-fruitedwhites.EspCHlaCourançonne,DOMSdel’Amauve(fine),deCabasse(elegant),JDavid(bold,organic),Garancière,Mourchon(robust),Pourra(big),SoleilRomain.

SélectiondesGrainsNoblesAlTermcoinedbyHUGELforALSACEequivalenttoGermanBeerenauslese,andsubjecttoeverstricterregulations(since1984).Grainsnoblesareindividualgrapeswith“noblerot”.

SérafinCd’Or★★★ChristianSérafinoffersintenseGEVREY-CHAMBERTINVIEILLESVIGNES,CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN.Plentyofnewwoodbutrefinementnownieceismakingthewines.

SeysselSavwsp★★NVDelicatewhite,pleasantsparkling.eg.Corbonod.

Sichel&CoB’xrwOneofB’X’smostrespectedmerchanthouses(Siriusatopbrand):interestsinCHXD’ANGLUDET,PALMERandinCORBIÈRES.

SignarguesSRhô★→★★CÔTESDURHÔNEvillageinfourareas

betweenAvignonandNîmes(westbank).Fruity,slightlyspicedredstodrinkinside4yrs.Note:CAVEEstézargues,laFontduVent(best,deepest),CHHaut-Musiel,DOMValériane.

Sipp,LouisAlwsw★★→★★★Grower/négociantinRibeauvillé.V.gdRIESGRANDCRUKirchberg,superbgrandcruOsterbergGEWURZVENDANGETARDIVE(esp05’09’).

Sipp-MackAlwsw★★→★★★ExcellentDOMatHunawihr.GreatRIESfromGRANDSCRUSROSACKER(02070810’11)andOsterberg;alsov.gdPINOTGR.

Sorg,BrunoAlw★★→★★★First-classsmallgroweratEguisheimforGRANDSCRUSFlorimont(RIES080910’11)andPFERSIGBERG(MUSCAT).Immaculateeco-friendlyv’yds.Winemakingwithfeeling.

Surlie“Onthelees”.MUSCADETisoftenbottledstraightfromthevat,formaxzest,bodyandcharacter.

Tâche,LaCd’Or★★★★90’93’9596’9899’000102’03

05’060709’10’1112’6ha(1,500case)GRANDCRUofVOSNE-ROMANÉE,MONOPOLEofDRC.Oneofbestv’ydsonearth:full,perfumed,luxuriouswine,tightinyouth.

Taille-aux-Loups,DomainedelaLowswsp★★★02’03’05’0607’08’0910’11JackyBlotisoneoftheLoire’smostdynamicproducers:barrel-fermentedMONTLOUISandVOUVRAY,majoritydry,afewsweet;TripleZéroMontlouisPétillant,plusTripleZéroRosé(GAMAY)andfineredsfrom14haDOMdelaButteBOURGUEIL.AcquiredCLOSMosny(Montlouis)late2010.

Tain,CavedeNRhô★★BestNorthernRhôneco-op,290members,manymaturev’yds,incl25%ofHERMITAGE.Sound(r)Hermitage,espEpsilon,GambertdeLoche,full(w)HermitageAuCoeurdesSiècles.Gd(r)ST-JOSEPH,othersmodernmoremainstream,espCROZES.MARSANNE(w)gd-value,accomplishedVINDEPAILLE.

TaittingerChampBRUTNV;RoséNV;Brut9095’02’0408’;

CollectionBrut909596.Once-fashionableReimsgrowerandmerchantbackunderfamilycontrol.Distinctivesilky,flowerytouch;notalwaysconsistent,oftennoticeablydosed.ExcellentluxurybrandComtesdeChampagneBLANCDEBLANCS(95’96’02’)andRosé(9602);gd,richPINOTPrestigeRoséNV.NewCUVÉESNocturneandPrélude.Excellentsingle-v’ydLaMarquetterie.(SeealsoDOMCarneros,California.)

TavelSRhôp★★DYA.GRENACHE-based,west-of-Avignonrosé,formerlyallrobust,suitedtofullMediterraneanflavours.NowmanyslighterProvence-stylewines,oftenforapéritif.Best:DOMCorne-Loup,GUIGAL,LafondRoc-Epine,Maby,DomdelaMordorée(full),PrieurédeMontézargues(fine),Moulin-la-Viguerie,Rocalière(fine),CHCorrenson,deManissy,Trinquevedel(fine),VIDAL-FLEURY.

Tempier,DomaineProvrpw★★★★OncethepioneeringestateofBANDOL.Winesofconsiderableelegance,longevity.

Excellentqualitynowchallengedbyothers.TerrassesduLarzacL’docrpw★★→★★★Northernpartof

ACL’DOC.Wild,hillyregionfromtheLacduSalagoutowardsAniane.Coolertemperaturesmakefresherwines.InlinetobeaCruduL’doc.Severalestablishedandmanyrisingstars,incl:Masdel’Ecriture,CLOSdesSerres,CalDemoura,Montcalmès,MasJullien.Towatch.

Thénard,DomBurgrwMajorgrowerofGIVRYAC,excellentreds.Whitesimproving,incllargeholding(1.6ha)ofLeMONTRACHET,mostlysoldtomerchantseg.JADOT.

Thévenet,JeanBurgrwsw★★★MÂCONNAISpurveyorofrich,somesemi-botrytized,wineseg.CUVÉELevroutéeatDOMdelaBongran.AlsoDomEmilianGillet.

Thézac-PerricardSWFrrp★★091011(12’)MALBEC-basedIGPadjoiningCAHORS,forearlierdrinking.★★DOMdeLancementkeepsthelittleco-oponitstoes.

Thiénot,AlainChampNewgenerationtakesthishouseforward.Ever-improvingqualityacrosstherange.Impressive,fairlypricedBRUTNV.RoséNVBrut.VintageStanislas(02040608’09)andvoluminousVigneauxGamins(single-v’ydAvize0204).TopGrandeCUVÉE96’9802’.AlsoownsMarieStuartandCANARD-DUCHÊNEinCHAMPAGNE,CHRicaudinLOUPIAC.

Thomas,André&filsAlw★★★V.finegroweratAmmerschwihr,rigorouslyorganic.Anartist-craftsmaninthecellar:v.gdRIESKaefferkopf(0810’)andmagnificentGEWURZVIEILLESVIGNES(0509’).

Tollot-BeautCd’Or★★★ConsistentCÔTEDEBEAUNEgrowerwith20hainBEAUNE(Grèves,CLOSduRoi),CORTON(Bressandes),SAVIGNYandatCHOREY-LÈS-BEAUNEbase(NBPièceduChapitre).Oakystyle.

TouraineLorpwdrswsp★→★★★★0809’1011HugeregionwithmanyACs(eg.VOUVRAY,CHINON,BOURGUEIL)as

wellasumbrellaACofvariablequality–zestyreds(CABFR,CÔT,GAMAY,PINOTN),pungentwhites(SAUVBL,CHENINBL),rosésandsparkling.Oftengd-value.Producers:CLOSRoussely,DOMSdesBois-Vaudons,Corbillières,JoëlDelaunay,delaGarrelière,Gosseaume,ClosRocheBlanche,Mandard,JackyMarteau,Marionnet;Morantin,Oisly&Thesée,Presle,Puzelat,PetitThouars,Ricard,ClosdeTue-Boeuf.Ill-conceivedreformsplusnewoverlargeACsTouraine-OislyandespTouraine-Chenonceaux.

Touraine-AmboiseLorpw★→★★TOURAINEsub-appellation(220ha).Mixedquality.François1erisentry-levellocalblend(GAMAY/CÔT/CABFR)orCHENINBL.Best:CloseriedeChanteloup,Delecheneau(GrangeTiphaine),desBessons,Dutertre,Frissant,delaGabillière.

Touraine-Azay-le-RideauLopw★→★★Small(60ha)TOURAINEsub-appellationforCHENINBL-baseddry,off-drywhite

androsé(Grolleau60%min).Producersincl:CHdel’Aulée,NicolasPaget,Pibaleau.

Touraine-MeslandLorpw★→★★Small(105ha)TOURAINEsub-appellationredblends(GAMAY/CÔT/CABFR).NobetterthanstraightTouraine.WhitesmainlyCHENIN.CHGaillard,CLOSdelaBriderie(biodynamic).

Touraine-NobleJouéLop★→★★DYA.PopularrosérevivedfromthreePINOTS(N,GR,MEUNIER).AC(2001),now28hasouthofTours.EspCosson,ROUSSEAU,Sard.

TrapetCd’Or★★→★★★Long-establishedGEVREY-CHAMBERTINDOMenjoyingnewlife;sensualbiodynamicwines.CHAMBERTINisflagshipbutPREMIERCRUSalsov.gd.SeealsocousinsROSSIGNOL-TRAPET.

Trévallon,DomainedeProvrw★★★★959697989900’0103040506070809101112PioneerestateinLESBAUX,butIGPBouchesduRhôneasnoGRENACHEgrapes.Deservesits

hugereputation.IntenseCABSAUV/SYRAHtoage.Barrique-agedwhitefromMARSANNEandROUSSANNE,adropofCHARDandnowGRENACHEBL.Worthseekingout.

TricastinSRhôSeeGRIGNAN-LES-ADHEMAR.Trimbach,FEAlw★★★→★★★★Matchlessgrowerof

ALSACERIESonlimestonesoilsatRibeauvillé,espCLOSSTE-HUNE(06080910’12)almost-as-gd(andmuchcheaper)FrédéricEmile(0608).Dry,elegantwinesforgreatcuisine.

TursanSWFrrpw★★(MostlyDYA.)Lively★co-op(inclraregrapeBaroque)twinnedwithCOTEAUXDECHALOSSE,outclassedbychefMichelGuérard’schicbutatypical★★wines.★★DOMdePerchadeismoreauthentic.

VacqueyrasSRhôr(p)w★★01’0305’06’07’09’10’1112’Hearty,peppery,GRENACHE-ledneighbourofGIGONDASWITHearlier,hotterv’yds,socanbewineforgame,bigflavours.Lives10yrs+.Note:ArnouxVieuxClocher,JABOULET,CHXde

Montmirail,desTours(v.fine);CLOSdesCazaux(gdvalue),DOMSAmouriers,Archimbaud-Vache,Charbonnière,Couroulu(v.gd,traditional),FontdePapier,Fourmone,Garrigue(traditional),Grapillond’Or,Monardière(v.gd),Montirius(organic),Montvac,Ondines,FamillePerrin,RoucasToumba(organic),SangdesCailloux(v.gd).Fullwhites(ClosdesCazaux,SangdesCailloux).

ValdeLoireLorpwDYA.OneofFrance’sfourregionalIGPs,formerlyJardindelaFrance.

Vald’Orbieu,VigneronsduL’doc★Associationofsome200growersandco-opsinCORBIÈRES,L’DOC,MINERVOIS,ROUSSILLON,etc.,marketingasoundrangeofACandIGPwines.RedCUVÉEMythiqueisflagship.

ValençayLorpw★→★★AOPineastTOURAINE;easywinesfromespSAUVBL,usuallyCHARDintheblend.CLOSDelorme,JackyPreys,Hubert&OlivierSinson,SébastienVaillant,

VIGNERONSdeValençay.ValréasSRhôr(p)(w)★★07’09’10’11’12Somehigher

calibreDOMSatpreviouslymodest,late-ripeningCÔTESDURHÔNE-VILLAGEinnorthVaucluseblacktrufflearea;largeco-op.Grainy,canbeheady,fair-depthred(mainlyGRENACHE),improvingwhite.EspEmmanuelBouchard,CLOSBellane(gdwhite),DomdesGrandsDevers,Séminaire,CHlaDécelle,DomduMasdeSainteCroix.

VDQSVinsdélimitedequalitésupérieure.Nowphasedout.VendangeHarvest.Vendangetardive:late-harvest;ALSACE

equivalenttoGermanAuslesebutusuallyhigheralcohol.Venoge,deChampVenerablehousenowrevitalizedunderLANSON-

BCCownership.Gdnicheblends:CordonBleuExtra-Brut,VintageBLANCDEBLANCS(0004),CUVÉE20ansandprestigeCUVÉELouisXV,a10-yr-oldBLANCDENOIRS.

VentouxSRhôrp(w)★★09’10’11’12’Sprawling6,000ha+

ACinsightofMontVentouxbetweenRhôneandPROVENCE.Juicy,tangyred(GRENACHE/SYRAH,café-styletodeeper),roséandgdwhite(moreuseofoak).Somehighv’ydsforcoolflavours.Best:CLOSdesPatris,Gonnet,LaVieilleFerme(r)ownedbyBEAUCASTEL,CHXUnang,Valcombe,co-opBédoin,Goult,St-Didier,DOMsAnges,Berane,Brusset,Cascavel,Champ-Long,CroixdePins,Fondrèche,GrandJacquet,JABOULET,Martinelle,Murmurium,Pesquié(excellent),Pigeade,StJeanduBarroux,TerresdeSolence,Verrière,VIDAL-FLEURY.

VergetBurgw★★→★★★Jean-MarieGuffens’MÂCONNAIS-basedwhite-winemerchantventure,nearlyasidiosyncraticashisownDOM.Finequality,plansforreds,too.

VeuveClicquotChampYellowLabelNV;WhiteLabelDemi-SecNV;VintageRés02’04060811;RoséRés02’04.Historichouseofhigheststanding,ownedbyLVMH.Full-bodied,

almostrich:oneofCHAMPAGNE’ssurethings.Luxurybrands:LaGrandeDame(9804’08’),RichRés(0206),LaGrandeDameRosé(9598).Part-oak-fermentedvintagesfrom2008.NewCavePrivéere-releaseofoldvintages:superb85and78Rosé.

VeuveDevauxChampPremiumbrandofthepowerfulUnionAuboiseco-op.ExcellentagedGrandeRésNV,OeildePerdrixRosé,PrestigeCUVÉED(0204),BRUTVintage(0409’).

VézelayBurgrw★→★★Age1–2yrs.Up-and-comingnorthsubdistrictofgenericBOURGOGNEforreds.TastywhitesfromCHARDorresurrectedMELONsoldasCOTEAUXBOURGUIGNONS.TryDOMdelaCadette,desFaverelles,MariaCuny,EliseVilliers.

Vidal-Fleury,JNRhôrwsw★★→★★★NewcellarsanddriveforfresherwinesatGUIGAL-ownedRhônemerchantandgrowerofCÔTE-RÔTIE.Top-notch,elegantLaChatillonne(12%VIOGNIER;waitmin5yrs).Rangeontheup.GdCAIRANNE,CÔTES

DURHÔNE(r,w,rosé),VENTOUX,MUSCATDEBEAUMES-DE-VENISE.VieilleFerme,LaSRhôrw★★Inmiddleofnowhere,whatto

buy?This!Extremelyreliable,gd-valuebrand;VENTOUX(r)andLUBÉRON(w)fromFamillePerrinofCHDEBEAUCASTEL.Lotsoffruit,localappeal.

VieillesVignesOldvines,whichshouldmakethebestwine.Eg.DEVOGÜÉ,MUSIGNY,VieillesVignes.Butnorulesaboutageandcanbeatouristtrap..

VieuxTélégraphe,DomaineduSRhôrw★★★78’81’858889’9094’95’96’9798’99’0001’03’04’05’06’07’09’10’1112’Top-ranklargeestate,makerofsmoky,complex,long-livedredCHÂTEAUNEUF,andrichwhite(greatwithfood,gdinlesseryrseg.02,08).SecondDOM:delaRoquète,isimproving:nowjustonered,plusstylishwhites.Ownsfine,slow-to-evolve,understatedGigondasDomLesPallièreswithUSimporterKermitLynch.

VigneorvignobleVineyard(v’yd),vineyards(v’yds).VigneronVine-grower.VindeFranceReplacesVDT.Allowsmentionofgrapevarietyand

vintage.Oftenblendsofregionswithbrandname.Canbesourceofunexpecteddelightsiftalentedwinemakerusesthiscategorytoavoidbureaucractichassle.Eg.YvesCuilleronVIOGNIER(NorthernRhône).

VindepailleWinefromgrapesdriedonstrawmats,sov.sweet,likeItalianpassito.EspintheJura.SeealsoCHAVE,VINPAILLÉDECORRÈZE.

Vinjaune(Jura)canlivefor50years,a1774bottlesoldin2012forUS$49,220.

VindePays(VDP)PotentiallymostdynamiccategoryinFrance(withover150regions),allowingscopeforexperimentation.

RenamedIGP(IndicationGéographiqueProtegée)from2009vintage,butpositionunchangedandnewterminologystillnotacceptedbyeveryarea.Thezonalnamesaremostindividual:eg.CÔTESDEGASCOGNE,CÔTESDETHONGUE,HauteValléedel’Orb,Duchéd’Uzès,amongothers.Enormousvarietyintasteandqualitybutneverceasestosurprise.

Vindetable(VDT)Categoryofstandardeverydaytablewine–nowVINDEFRANCE.

Vindouxnaturel(VDN)RoussSweetwinefortifiedwithwinealcohol,sothesweetnessisnatural,notthestrength.ThespecialityofROUSSILLON,basedonGRENACHEorMUSCAT.Topwines,espagedRANCIOs,canprovidefabulousdrinking.

Vingris“Grey”wineisv.palepink,madeofredgrapespressedbeforefermentationbegins,unlikeroséthatfermentsbrieflybeforepressing.Orfromeg.PINOTGR,not-quite-whitegrapes.“ŒildePerdrix”meansmuchthesame;sodoes“blush”.

VinjauneJuraw★★★SpecialityofARBOIS:oddyellowwinelikeFinoSherry.Normallyreadywhenbottled(afteratleast6yrs).Best:CH-CHALON.Ahalfway-houseoxidizedwhiteissoldlocallyasvintypé.

VinpaillédeCorrèzeSWFrrwKeepaslongasyoulike.MadenrBeaulieu-sur-Dordogneby25keengrowersandsmallco-op.Modernmethodsgraduallyreplacingoldstyle(onceprescribedforbreast-feedingmothers).Anacquiredtaste.Try★ChristianTronche.

VinsobresSRhôr(p)(w)★★07’09’10’1112’SYRAH-growingAC,markedbystrongwinds,partataltitude,nrNyons.Bestredsofferdirectredfruit,punchybody.Leaders:CAVElaVinsobraise,DOMSlesAussellons,Bicarelle,Chaume-Arnaud,Constant-Duquesnoy,Coriançon,Deurre(traditional),Jaume(modern),Moulin(traditional),FamillePerrin(v.gdvalue),Péquélette(biodynamic),CHRouanne.

Viré-ClesséBurgw★★09’10’1112ACbasedaroundtwoofbestwhitevillagesofMÂCON.Extrovertstyle,thoughresidualsugaroriginallyforbidden.TryABonhomme,BretBros,Chaland,LAFON,Michel,THÉVENET,co-op.

VisanSRhôr(p)(w)★★09’10’11’12Younggrowersdrivingqualityatlater-ripeningRhônevillageformedium-fullredswithdirectfruit,pepper.Fairwhites.Bestincl:DOMSCosteChaude(gdfruit),Florane,Fourmente(espNature),desGrandsDevers,Roche-Audran.

Vogüé,ComteGeorgesdeCd’Orw★★★★IconicCHAMBOLLEestate,incllion’sshareofMUSIGNY.Heraldedvintagesfrom1990stakingtimetocomeround.

VolnayCd’Or★★★→★★★★90’9596’9899’02’0305’060709’10’1112VillagebetweenPOMMARDandMEURSAULT:oftenthebestredsoftheCÔTEDEBEAUNE;structuredandsilky.Bestv’yds:Caillerets,Champans,CLOSdesChênes,Santenots,

Taillepieds,etc.Bestgrowers:D’ANGERVILLE,J-MBOILLOT,HOSPICESDEBEAUNE,LAFARGE,LAFON,DEMONTILLE,Rossignol.

Volnay-SantenotsCd’Or★★★Bestredwinev’ydsofMEURSAULTusethisname.IndistinguishablefromotherPREMIERCRUVOLNAY,unlessmorebody,lessdelicacy.Bestgrowers:AMPEAU,HOSPICESDEBEAUNE,LAFON,LEROY,PRIEUR.

Vosne-RomanéeCd’Or★★★→★★★★90’939596’9899’02’0305’06070809’10’1112.VillagewithBurgundy’sgrandestcrus(eg.ROMANÉE-CONTI,LATÂCHE)andoutstandingPREMIERSCRUSMalconsorts,Suchots,Brûlées,etc.Thereare(orshouldbe)nocommonwinesinVosne.Manygdgrowers,incl:Arnoux,CATHIARD,Clavelier,DRC,EUGÉNIE,GRIVOT,GROS,Lamarche,LEROY,LIGER-BELAIR,MÉO-CAMUZET,MUGNERET,ROUGET,Tardy,Vigot.

VougeotCd’Orw★★★90’96’9899’02’0305’06070809’10’1112MostlyGRANDCRUasCLOSDEVOUGEOTbutalso

villageandPREMIERCRU,incloutstandingwhiteMONOPOLE,ClosBlancdeV.HUDELOT-NoëllatandVOUGERAIEbest.

Vougeraie,DomainedelaCd’Orw★★→★★★DOMunitingallBOISSET’sv’ydholdings(since1999).Gd-valueBOURGOGNERougeuptofineMUSIGNYGRANDCRUanduniquewhiteClosBlancdeVougeot.

VouvrayLowdrswsp★★→★★★★(dr)899096’9702’0305’0708’091011(sw)89’90’95’96’97’03’05’0809’ImportantACeastofToursfamousforsweetwines,fizz.Stillwinesfromtopproducersincreasinglyreliable.DEMI-SECisclassicstyle,butingdyrsmoelleuxcanbeintenselysweet,virtuallyimmortal.Fizzvariable(60%production):lookforpétillant.Producers:Bonneau,Brunet,Carême,Champalou,CLOSBaudoin,Dhoye-Deruet,Foreau,Fouquet(DOMdesAubuisières),CHGaudrelle,Huet,delaMeslerie,Pinon,DomdelaTaille-aux-Loups,Vigneau-Chevreau.Ancientvintages,

ie.1921,24,47,59,70,71amust-try.VrankenChampEvermorepowerfulCHAMPAGNEgroup.Sound

quality.Leadingbrand:Demoiselle.OwnsHEIDSIECKMONOPOLEandPOMMERY.

WolfbergerAl★★PrincipallabelofEguisheimco-op.V.gdqualityforsuchalarge-scaleproducer.ImportantforCRÉMANT.

“Y”B’x(pronounced“ygrec”)80’858688949600020405060708091011IntensedrywhitewineproducedatCHD’YQUEM,nowonayearlybasis.Enticingyoungbutinterestingwithage.Drystylein2004,otherwiseinclassicoff-drymould,butrecentlypurerandfresherthaninthepast.

ZindHumbrecht,DomaineAlwsw★★★★LeadingbiodynamicDOMsensitivelyrunbyOlivierHumbrecht,greatwinemakerandthinker:rich,balancedwines,drier,moreelegantthanbefore,v.lowyields.Topwinesfromsinglev’ydsClosSt-Urbain,(ace00’)Jebsal(superbPINOTGR02080910)

andWindsbuhl(espGEWURZ050809’),plusGRANDSCRUSRANGEN,HENGST,Brand,Goldert.

NaturalwineAnundefined,butcultishcategory:winemadewithnochemicals,minimalsulphur(whateverthatmeans)ornone;embracesorganicandbiodynamics,evenskin-macerated(“orange”)whites.Canbev.fineindeed,butintentionallyoxidativewinescanbechallenging.Hasseizedthehand-knittedmoralhighground,regardlessofflavour.Madeworldwide,butthisentryhastogosomewhere….

ChâteauxofBordeaux

Followingtheheadyyearsof2009and2010Bordeauxcamebackdowntoearthin2011and2012.Theseweretrickyyears,thelatterbesetbyunevenflowering,fungaldiseaseandharvestrain–anewexperienceforsomeyoungwinemakers.Twentyyearsagoitwouldhavebeenawashout(witness1992and1993),butgreatercareinthevineyardandmeticuloussorting(salesoflaser-opticalgrape-sorterswerehealthy)mean2012isanagreeableifnotexceptionalyear,withvolumedown.Thecomfortingthought,though,isthatthe2009sand2010sareeithermaturingnicelyinthecellaroratahumblerlevelareavailabletobeenjoyednow.AtpetitchâteaulevelinappellationssuchasCastillon,Fronsac,LalandedePomerol,ListracandHaut-Médoc,anotherwonderfulvintage,2005,isjustcomingintoitsown.Andpricesatthislevelremainprettystable.Amonggrandscrus2001,2002,2004andeven2000arethevintagestolookfornow;theseareclassicyears,destinedto

beenjoyedatthetable.OntheRightBank1998isastarturn,oneofthegreatestrecentMerlotvintages.DrywhiteBordeauxcontinuestobeconsistentandgoodvalue(oneoftheraresuccessesin2012)butSauternes’luckystarfinallyfaded,thenoblerotdisruptedbytherain.Still,thereareplentyofremarkablevintagesinreserve(2011,2010,2009,2007,2005,2003,2002,2001).PerhapsAsiawilltakeupsomeoftheslackinconsumptionofthesestunningwines.

ChâteauxofBordeauxentriesalsocross-referencetoFrance

L’A,Domaineder★★02030405’06070809’10’1112OwnedbywinemakingconsultantSTÉPHANEDERENONCOURTandoneofthebestinCASTILLON.Biodynamicallyrun.MorefinessethanusualfortheAC.

d’AgassacH-Médr★★00’0203040506070809’10’11TurretedRenaissanceCHnearB’Xcity.Visitorswelcome.

Modern,accessiblewine.Andron-BlanquetSt-Estr★★9800’01030405’060809’10’

11SisterCHtoCOS-LABORY.Unfashionablebutgdvalue.AngélusSt-Émr★★★★89’90’959698’9900’010203’04

0506070809’10’1112PromotiontoPREMIERGRANDCRUCLASSÉ(A)in2012.PioneerofmodernST-ÉMILION;dark,rich,sumptuous.Newbell-towerandwineryin2013baptizedbythearchbishopofB’X.Secondwine:LeCarillondeL’Angélus.FleurdeBoüardinLALANDEDEPOMEROLandBellevueinSt-Émilionsameownership.

d’AngludetMargr★★★9596’98’00020405060809’10’1112OwnedandrunbynégociantSICHEL.Lively,fragrant,stylish,popularintheUK.Gd-value.AlsoCHArgadens(B’XSUPÉRIEUR,randw)

ArchambeauGravrwdr(sw)★★(r)040506080910(w)05060708091011PropertyatIllatsownedbybranchof

Dubourdieufamily.Gdfruity,drywhite;fragrantbarrel-agedreds.ImprovingBARSAC-classed-growthCHSuauinsamestable.

d’ArcheSautwsw★★9697’98990001’0203’050709’10’11’Much-improvedSecondGrowth.Topvintagesarecreamy.CHd’Arche-Lafaurieisarichermicro-CUVÉE.Alsobed-and-breakfastin17th-centurychapterhouse.

d’ArmailhacPaur★★★95’96’9899000102030405’06070809’10’1112SubstantialFifthGrowthunder(MOUTON)ROTHSCHILDownership.Topquality,andmorefinessethansisterCLERCMILON;15–20%CABFR.Ontopformsince2004andwell-priced.

l’ArroséeSt-Émr★★★000102030405’06’070809’10’11Classed-growthcôteestate.NeighbourtoFONPLÉGADEandnewlynamedQUINTUS.Since2003(newowners)ontopform.Mellow,harmoniouswines:plentyofCABSFR,SAUV(40%).

AusoneSt-Émr★★★★8889’909596’9798’9900’01’02

03’0405’06’070809’10’1112TinybutillustriousFirstGrowth(around1,500cases);bestpositiononthecôtes.LotsofCABFR(55%).PinnacleofgreatST-ÉMILION.Long-livedwines:volume,texture,finesse.Secondlabel:Chapelled’Ausone(500cases)alsoexcellent.MOULIN-ST-GEORGES,Simard,FonbelinsameVauthier-familyownership.

BalestardlaTonnelleSt-Émr★★98’00’010304050608091011Historicclassedgrowthonlimestoneplateau.MICHELROLLANDassociateconsults.Richerandripersince2003.

Barde-HautSt-Émr★★980001020305’06070809101112ElevatedtoGRANDCRUCLASSÉ(2012).SisterpropertyofCLOSL’EGLISE,HAUT-BERGEY.Rich,modern,opulent.

Bastor-LamontagneSautwsw★★96’97’989901’0203’050709’1011LargePreignacsistertoBEAUREGARD.Gdvalue;pure,harmonious.Secondlabel:LesRempartsdeBastor.New,fruity“So”(from2010)forearlydrinking.AlsoCHSt-Robertat

Pujols:GRAVES(rw).BatailleyPaur★★★9600’02030405’060809’10’1112

FifthGrowth,ownedbyBORIE-MANOUXconnections.Steadyformlastdecade.DenisDubourdieuconsults.

BeaumontH-Médr★★9800’020405’06080910’OneofthelargestestatesintheMÉDOCpeninsula;early-maturing,easilyenjoyablewines.Secondlabel:CHMoulind’Arvigny.InthesamehandsasBEYCHEVELLE.

BeauregardPomr★★★98’00’0102030405’060809’10’11Consistentmid-weightPOMEROL,convertingtoorganics.PavillonBeauregardsisterestateinLALANDEDEPOMEROL.Secondlabel:BenjamindeBeauregard.

Beau-Séjour-BécotSt-Émr★★★89’90’95’9698’9900’0102030405’06070809’10’1112PREMIERGRANDCRUCLASSÉonthelimestoneplateau.Seductivewineswithmorefinessefrom2001.Ageingpotentialaswell.GRAND-PONTETandLA

GOMERIEinsamefamilyhands.

St-Émilionclassification–2012versionAtotalof82CHX(outof96candidates)wereclassifiedin2012:18asPREMIERGRANDCRUCLASSÉand64asGRANDCRUCLASSÉ.Thenewclassification,nowlegallyconsideredanexamratherthanacompetition,wasconductedbyacommissionofsevenwineprofessionalsnominatedbyINAO,nonefromB’X.ChxANGÉLUSandPAVIEwereupgradedtoPREMIERGRANDCRUCLASSÉ(A)whileaddedtotherankofpremiergrandcruclassé(B)wereCANONLAGAFFELIÈRE,LARCISDUCASSE,LAMONDOTTEandVALANDRAUD.NewtothestatusofGRANDCRUCLASSÉwerechxBARDE-HAUT,LeChatelet,ClosdeSarpe,LaCommanderie,CôtedeBaleau,FAUGÈRES,DEFERRAND,LaFleurMorange,FOMBRAUGE,JeanFaure,CloslaMadeleine,PébyFaugères,dePressac,Quinaultl’Enclos,RochebelleandSANSONNET.

Althoughamotivatingforcefortheproducers,theclassification(whichisreviewedevery10yrs)remainsanunwieldyguideforconsumers.Niceforthelawyers,though:asusual,therearelegalchallengestothenewclassification.

Beauséjour-DuffauSt-Émr★★★95969899000102030405’060809’10’1112TinyPREMIERGRANDCRUCLASSÉestateonwestslopeoftheCÔTESownedbyDuffau-Lagarrossefamily.Movedupagearfrom2009:STÉPHANEDERENONCOURTconsults.

Beau-SiteSt-Estr★★000304050608091011CRUBOURGEOIS(2010)propertyinsamehandsasBATAILLEY,etc.70%CABSAUV.Averagewinebutmorefleshinrecentyrs.

Belair-MonangeSt-Émr★★★89’90’9495’96989900’0102030405’060809’10’1112Classed-growthneighbourofAUSONEownedbynégociantJ-PMOUEIX.Namechangedfrom

2008(previouslyplainBelair).AbsorbedMAGDELAINE(2012)todoublethesize.Fine,fragrant,elegantstyle;moreconcentrationsince2008.

BelgraveH-Médr★★98’00’02’0304’05’06070809’10’11SizeableFifthGrowth,well-managedbyCVBG-DOURTHE(seeLAGARDE,REYSSON).Modern-classicinstyle.Nowconsistentquality.Secondlabel:DianedeBelgrave.

Bellefont-BelcierSt-Émr★★000102030405’060708’09’10’11FirstclassifiedestatetofallintoChinesehands(2012).NeighbourofLARCIS-DUCASSEonthecôtesatSt-Laurent-des-Combes.Suave,freshandrefined.Recentvintagesv.gd.

Bel-Orme-Tronquoy-de-LalandeH-Médr★★98’000203040508091011NorthernHAUT-MÉDOCestate.Clay-limestonesoils,soMERLOT(60%)dominates.Firm,muscularstyle.SameownerasCROIZET-BAGES,RAUZAN-GASSIES.

BerliquetSt-Émr★★98’00’01020405’0608091011Tiny

GRANDCRUCLASSÉonthecôtes.DERENONCOURTconsultantfrom2008.Fresh,elegantstyle.

BernadotteH-Médr★★→★★★00’0102030405’06070809’10’11CRUBOURGEOIS(2010)closetoPAUILLAC.SoldbyROEDERER(ownersince2006)toHongKong-basedgroupin2012.Structuredwines.Recentvintageshavemorefinesse.V.gd2010.

BertineauSt-VincentB’xr★★9800’0104050608091011TopenologistMICHELROLLANDownsthistinyestateinLalande-de-Pomerol.Oldvines,fairlyconsistent.(SeealsoLEBONPASTEUR.)

BeychevelleSt-Julr★★★989900’0102030405’06070809’10’1112FourthGrowthwitheye-catchingboatlabel.Castel(since2011)andSuntory(LAGRANGE)owners.Winesofconsistenteleganceratherthanpower.Ontopformsincelate1990s.Secondwine:AmiraldeBeychevelle.

Biston-BrilletteMour★★0102030405’06080910’11Well-managed,family-owned.Attractive,fruit-boundwines.Consistentqualityandvalue.

BonalguePomr★★98’000104050608091011Dark,rich,meaty.Asgd-valueasitgets.SisterestateCLOSduClocher.CHXduCourlatinLUSSACST-ÉMILIONandLesHautsConseillantsinLALANDEDEPOMEROLsamestable.

BonnetB’xrw★★(r)050608091011(w)DYA.OwnedbyoctogenarianAndréLurton.LargeproducerofsomeofthebestE-2-MandredB’X.PrestigeredandwhiteCUVÉE,Divinus.LALOUVIÈRE,COUHINS-LURTON,ROCHEMORINsamestable.

BonPasteur,lePomr★★★96’98’99000102030405’060809’10’11ExcellentpropertyonST-ÉMILIONborder,ownedbyMICHELROLLAND.Ripe,opulent,seductivewinesguaranteed.(SeealsoBERTINEAUST-VINCENT.)

Boscq,leSt-Estr★★01030405’060809’1011Quality-driven

estateownedbyCVBG-DOURTHE.MERLOTdominates(60%).Excellentvalue.

Bourgneuf-VayronPomr★★98’0001’030405’06080910Vayronnamedropped(2010).Ample,firm-edged,withmorefruitandprecisionfrom2008.

BouscautPe-Lérw★★(r)95980001020405’0607080910’1112(w)0102030405’0607080910’1112ClassedgrowthownedbysisterofBRANE-CANTENAC’sHenriLurton.MERLOT-basedreds.Sappy,age-worthywhites.

Boyd-CantenacMargr★★★98’0002030405’06070809’10’11Little-knownThirdGrowthontopformthesedays.CABSAUV-dominatedwithalittlepepperyPETITVERDOT.Stupendous2010.Secondwine:JacquesBoyd.SeealsoPOUGET.

Branaire-DucruSt-Julr★★★95969800’0102030405’060809’10’1112FourthGrowthwithv’ydscatteredaroundAC.“Fruit,freshness,finesse”themottohere.Consistentsincethe

mid-1990sandrelativelygdvalue.Secondlabel:Duluc.Brane-CantenacMargr★★★9596989900’0102030405’

06070809’10’1112LargeSecondGrowthontheCantenacplateau.OwnerHenriLurtonmanageswithaplomb.Dense,fragrant.Exquisite2005.Secondlabel:BarondeBrane.

BrilletteMour★★00020304050608091011V’ydongravellysoils.Winesofgddepthandfruit.MICHELROLLANDconsults.Secondlabel:BerthaultBrillette.

Cabanne,LaPomr★★9698’00040506’08091011V’ydwestofthePOMEROLplateau.Cellarfirein2010;newcellarsince.Willthisimprovetherusticstyle?Secondwine:DOMdeCompostelle.

Thereare60differentappellationsinBordeaux.

Cadet-PiolaSt-Émr★★9800010304050608091011RIP

from2012.FormerGRANDCRUCLASSÉnowabsorbedintoCHSOUTARD.Fresh,firm,long-livedwines.2010moremodern.

CaillouSautwsw★★90’959697989901’0203’05’0709’10’11’Well-run2nd-rankBARSACforfirm,fruitywine.2010and2011cracking.CUVÉEReineisatopselection,PrestigeCuvéeanother.

Calon-SégurSt-Estr★★★90’949596’989900’010203’0405’060708’09’10’1112ThirdGrowthwithgreathistoricreputation.SoldtoaFrenchinsurancecompanyin2012.Estatereallyflyingsince2008,thankstoinvestmentandnewwinemaker(ex-CHMARGAUX).Secondlabel:MarquisdeCalon.

CambonlaPelouseH-Médr★★0102030405’0607080910’11Big,supple,accessiblesouthernHAUT-MÉDOCcru.L’Aura,amicro-CUVÉEfromMARGAUX.

CamensacH-Médr★★980102030506080910’11FifthGrowthinnorthernHAUT-MÉDOC.Newowner(2005)has

CHASSE-SPLEENconnection;changeforthebetterfrom2006;riperfruit.Secondlabel:LaCloseriedeCamensac.

CanonSt-Émr★★★9698’99000102030405’060708’09’10’1112Famousfirstclassedgrowthwithwalled-inv’ydonplateauwestofthetown.SameownersasRAUZAN-SÉGLA.Completerenovationofthecellarsandv’ydsince1997.Elegant,long-lived.NeigbouringCHMatrasintegratedin2012.Secondlabel:ClosCanon.

Canon-de-BremB’xr★★0001030405’RIPfrom2006.BoughtbyJeanHalleyofCarrefoursupermarketsin2000,winenowabsorbedintoCHDELADAUPHINE.Massiverecentinvestment.Firm,pureexpression.

CanonlaGaffelièreSt-Émr★★★959698’9900’0102030405’060809’10’1112JustpromotiontoPREMIERGRANDCRUCLASSÉin2012.SameownershipasCLOSDEL’ORATOIRE,LAMONDOTTEandAiguilheinCastillon.Stylish,upfront,

impressivewineswith40%CABFRand5%CABSAUV.CantegrilGravrSautwsw★★(r)0506080910(w)030405’

0607091011Supplered,fineBARSAC-SAUTERNESfromDOISY-DAËNEandCLOSFLORIDÈNEconnection.Value.

CantemerleH-Médr★★★96’98000102030405’06’070809’10’1112LargepropertyinwoodedparkinsouthernHAUT-MÉDOC.NowmeritsitsFifthGrowthstatus.Sandy/gravelsoilsgivefinerstyle.Secondlabel:LesAlléesdeCantemerle.

Cantenac-BrownMargr★★→★★★969899000102030405’060809’10’1112ThirdGrowthimprovedbyAXAMillésimesfrom1990s.NowownedbyBritishbusinessman(2005).Previouslyrobuststylebeingsteadilyrefined(v.gd09,10).Secondlabel:BriodeCantenacBrown.

Capbern-GasquetonSt-Estr★★9800020304050608’09’10’11SoldtosamenewinvestorassisterCALON-SÉGURin2012.Newcellarsin2010.Raiseditsgamesince2008–solidbut

polishedwines.CapdeMourlinSt-Émr★★→★★★9900010304050608

091011Well-knownpropertyoftheCapdemourlinfamily,alsoownersofCHBALESTARDLATONNELLEandChRoudier.Riperandmoreconcentratedthaninthepast.

CarbonnieuxPe-Lérw★★★96989900020405’06070809’101112LargehistoricestateatLéognanforsterlingredandwhite,runbyEricandPhilibertPerrin.Thewhites,65%SAUVBL(eg.00010203040506070809101112),canage10yrsormore.CHXHaut-Vigneau,LafontMenautandLeSartrearealsointhefamily.

Carles,deB’xr★★★000102030405’06’0708091011FRONSAC.Haut-Carles(★★★)isthetopselectionherewithitsownmodern,gravity-fedcellars.Investmentandaspirationsofatopgrowth.Superbfrom2006.

CarmesHaut-Brion,lesPe-Lér★★★9698990001020304

05’06070809’10’11Tinywalled-inneighbourofHAUT-BRION.Newownershipin2010.PartofLeThilComteClaryv’yd(Léognan)addedin2012sonowdoublethesize.

Caronne-Ste-GemmeH-Médr★★0102030405060809’10’11Go-aheadestate.OlivierDaugaconsults.Recentvintagesshowmoredepthandclass.

CarruadesdeChâteauLafitePauThesecondwineofCHLAFITEisarelativelyeasy-drinker(40%MERLOT).Itspricehasgoneballistic,thankstoChinesedemand.

CarteauCôtes-DaugaySt-Émr★★010203040508091011Consistent,gd-valueST-ÉMILIONGRANDCRU;full-flavouredwineswithfreshnessandeleganceaswell.

Certan-de-MayPomr★★★95969800’01’0405’060809’10’1112TinypropertyonPOMEROLplateauoppositeVIEUX-CH-CERTAN.Solidwineswithageingpotential.

Certan-MarzellePomLittleJ-PMOUEIXestateforfragrant,light,

juicyPomerol.ChantegriveGravrw★★→★★★0102030405’06070809’

10’1112ThelargestestateintheAC;modernandv.gdquality.Redsrichandfinelyoaked.CuvéeCarolineistop,fragrantwhite(030405’06070809101112).

Chasse-SpleenMour(w)★★★9899000102030405’06070809’10’11BigMOULISestateatclassed-growthlevel.Consistentlygd,oftenoutstanding,long-maturingwine.Secondlabel:L’HeritagedeChasse-Spleen.OneofthesurestthingsinB’X.Makesalittlewhite.SeealsoCAMENSACandGRESSIER-GRAND-POUJEAUX.

ChauvinSt-Émr★★0103040506080910’11Family-ownedGRANDCRUCLASSÉinnorthwestST-ÉMILION.Steadyperformer;increasinglyserious.

ChevalBlancSt-Émr★★★★888990’93949596’9798’9900’01’02030405’06070809’10’1112PREMIERGRANDCRU

CLASSÉ(A)ofST-ÉMILION.60%CABFR.Firm,fragrant,vigorous,withsomeofneighbouringPOMEROLvoluptuousness.Deliciousyoung;lastsageneration,ortwo.Sameownership,managementasYQUEM,LATOURDUPIN(ST-ÉMILION).1947isacandidateforbestclaretever.Stylish,neweco-friendlywineryinauguratedin2011.Secondwine:LePetitCheval.

Chevalier,DomainedePe-Lérw★★★★9596’98’99’00’01’020304’05’06070809’10’1112SuperbestateinLéognan.Impressivesince1998,theredhasgainedinfinesse,fruit,texture.Complex,long-ageingwhitehasremarkableconsistencyanddevelopsrichflavours(949596’9798’99000102030405’0607’08’09’10’1112).Secondwine:EspritdeChevalier.DOMdelaSolitudeandCHLespault-Martillacsamemanagement.

CissacH-Médr★★96’98000203040508091011CRUBOURGEOIS(2010)westofPAUILLAC.Firm,tannicwinesthat

needtime.Recentvintageslessrustic.Secondlabel:RefletsduCHCissac.

CitranH-Médr★★98990002030405’06080910’LargeestateownedbyVillars-Merlautfamilysince1996(seeCHASSE-SPLEEN,CAMENSAC).Modern,ripe,oakythrough2000s.Lately,touchmorefinesse.Secondlabel:MoulinsdeCitran.

NumberofBordeauxwinegrowersdwindledfrom25,000in1980to7,900today.

ClarencedeHaut-Brion,LePe-Lér★★★89’90949596’9899000102030405’06070809’10’1112ThesecondlabelofCHHAUT-BRION,knownasBahansHaut-Brionuntil2007.Blendchangesconsiderablywitheachvintagebutstylefollowsthatofthegrandvin.

ClarkeListr(p)(w)★★000102030405’060809’10’11Largeestate,massive(Edmond)Rothschildinvestment.Now

v.gdMERLOT-basedred.Consistentstylesince2000:darkfruitandfinetannins.Alsoadrywhite:LeMerleBlancduCHClarke.ChMalmaisoninMOULISsameconnection.

ClercMilonPaur★★★89’90’949596’98’99000102030405’06070809’10’1112V’ydtripledinsizesince(MOUTON)Rothschildspurchasedin1970(now247plots).BroaderandweightierthansisterD’ARMAILHAC.Newwinemakingteamin2009andeco-friendlycellarin2011.

ClimensSautwsw★★★★86’88’8990’959697’9899’0001’0203’0405’060709’10’11’BARSACclassedgrowthmakingsomeoftheworld’smoststylishwine.Concentratedbutwithvibrantaciditygivingbalance;ageingpotentialguaranteed.Biodynamicconversionfrom2009.Secondlabel:LesCyprès.OwnedbyBereniceLurton(sisterofHenriatBRANE-CANTENAC).

ClinetPomr★★★★959698’990001020305’060708’09’101112Madeanameforintense,sumptuouswinesinthe

1980s(89and90legendary).Backonsameformwith08and09.MICHELROLLANDconsults.Secondlabel:FleurdeClinetintroducedin1997,butnowanégociantbrand.

Closdel’OratoireSt-Émr★★989900’01030405’0607080910’11SeriousperformeronnortheasternslopesofST-ÉMILION.SamestableasCANON-LA-GAFFELIÈRE,LAMONDOTTE,polishedandreasonablevalue.Smallcropin2009(hail).

ClosdesJacobinsSt-Émr★★→★★★959698000102030405’06070809’10’1112Côtesclassedgrowthwithgreaterstaturesince2000.Newownershipfrom2004;newcreamystyle.ANGÉLUSownerconsults.SamefamilyownsGRANDCRUCLASSÉ(2012)CHLaCommanderie.

ClosduMarquisSt-Julr★★→★★★9899000102030405’06070809’10’1112Asof2007nolongerconsideredthesecondwineofLÉOVILLE-LAS-CASESbutaseparatewineandv’yd(ashasalwaysbeenthecase).Asgdasmanyclassedgrowths.

ClosFloridèneGravrw★★(r)02030405060809’10’11(w)01’04’05’0708’091011’AsurethingfromoneofB’X’smostfamouswhitewinemakers,DenisDubourdieu.SAUVBL/SÉMfromlimestoneallowsthewinetoagewell;muchimprovedred.SeealsoCHXCANTEGRIL,DOISY-DAËNEandREYNON.

TheaveragevineyardholdinginBordeauxhasincreasedfrom6hain1990tojustover15today.

ClosFourtetSt-Émr★★★95969899000102030405’06070809’10’1112FirstGrowthonthelimestoneplateau.Impressivequarriedcellarsbelow.Classic,stylishST-ÉMILION.Consistentlygdform.POUJEAUXinMOULISsameowner.Secondlabel:DOMdeMartialis.

ClosHaut-PeyragueySautwsw★★★8990’95’9697’98990001’0203’0405’060709’10’11’MagnateBernard

MagrezmadethishisFourthClassedGrowthin2012(seePAPE-CLÉMENT,LATOUR-CARNET,FOMBRAUGE).Elegant,harmoniouswines.Haut-Bommessamestable.

Closl’ÉglisePomr★★★96989900’0102030405’06070809’101112Well-sited,plateauv’yd.Rich,roundandmodernstylesince1998.SamefamilyownsHAUT-BERGEY,BranonandBARDE-HAUT.

ClosPuyArnaudB’xr★★01’02030405’060809’1011Biodynamicestate.AleadinglightinCASTILLON-CÔTESDEBORDEAUX.Winesofdepthanddistinction.OwnerformerlyconnectedtoPAVIE.

ClosRenéPomr★★98’00’010405’0608091011MERLOT-dominatedwinewithalittlespicyMALBECfromsandy/gravelsoils.LesssensuousthantopPOMEROLbutgdvalue.AliasCHMoulinet-Lasserre.

Clotte,laSt-Émr★★98’9900’0102030405060809’10’11

TinycôtesGRANDCRUCLASSÉ:fine,perfumed,supplewines.Confidentialbutgdvalue.

Colombier-MonpelouPaur★★00’020304050608Ownedsince2007by(MOUTON)Rothschilds.AlmostRIP.Grapesnowdestinedforotherbrands.

Conseillante,LaPomr★★★★8990’9495’96’98’9900’0102030405’06’070809’10’1112NeighbourofL’EVANGILE.Samefamilyownershipfor140yrs.SomeofthenoblestandmostfragrantPOMEROL;almostMédocaininstyle;long-ageing.Newcircularcuvierinauguratedin2012.Secondlabel:DuodeConseillante.

CorbinSt-Émr★★00’01020405070809’10’11Much-improvedGRANDCRUCLASSÉonsand,claysoils.Nowconsistent,gdvalue.Elegant,finetannicframe.

Corbin-MichotteSt-Émr★★010204050608091011FormerclassedgrowthontheedgeofPOMEROL(declassified2012).

Competentratherthanexciting.Medium-bodied,classicwines.CHCaloninMONTAGNE-ST-ÉMILIONsameowner.

Cordeillan-BagesPaur★★→★★★Amere1,000casesofsavouryPAUILLACmadebytheLYNCH-BAGESteam.RarelyseenoutsideB’X.Betterknownforitsluxuryrestaurantandhotel.

Cosd’EstournelSt-Estr★★★★89’90’949596’98’000102030405’06070809’10’1112FashionableSecondGrowthwitheccentricpagodachai.MostrefinedST-ESTÈPHE.New(wildlyexpensive)state-of-the-artcellarsin2008.Priceywhitefrom2005.PratsfamilyassociationterminatedwiththedepartureofmanagerJean-Guillaume(2013).Secondlabel:LesPagodesdeCos(andCHMARBUZETforsomemarkets).Super-modernGoulée(MÉDOC)samestable.

Cos-LaborySt-Estr★★90’949596’98’990002030405’06070809’10’1112Gd-valueFifthGrowthneighbourofCOSD’ESTOURNEL.Recentvintageshavemoredepthandstructure.

ANDRON-BLANQUETissisterCH.CoufranH-Médr★★9900010203040506080910’11

CoufranandVERDIGNAN,inextremenorthoftheHAUT-MÉDOC,areco-owned.CoufranismainlyMERLOTforsupplewine.SOUDARSisanother,smallersister.

Couhins-LurtonPe-Lérw★★→★★★(r)020304050608’0910’11(w)98’99000102030405060708’0910’11Fine,minerally,long-lived,classed-growthwhitemadefromSAUVBL.Supple,MERLOT-basedredfrom2002.SamefamilyasLALOUVIÈREandBONNET.

Couspaude,laSt-Émr★★★989900’010203040506070809’10’11Classedgrowthwell-locatedontheplateau.Modernstyle;richandcreamywithlashingsofspicyoak.MICHELROLLANDconsults.

CoutetSautwsw★★★88’89’90’959697’98’9901’0203’04050709’10’11’TraditionalrivaltoCLIMENS,butzestier

style.Consistentlyv.fine.CuvéeMadameisav.richselection(8990959701).Drywhite,barrel-fermentedOpaliefrom2010.

CouventdesJacobinsSt-Émr★★98’9900’01030405060809’1011GRANDCRUCLASSÉvinifiedwithinthewallsofthetown.Splendidcellars.Lighter,easystyle.DenisDubourdieuconsults.Secondlabel:LeMenutdesJacobins.

Crock,leSt-Estr★★989900’010203040506070809’1011V.finepropertyinthesamefamily(Cuvelier)asLÉOVILLE-POYFERRÉ.Solid,fruit-packed.

Croix,laPomr★★989900010405060708091011OwnedbynégociantJanoueix.Appealing,richandplummy.LaCroix-St-GeorgesandHAUT-SARPEinST-ÉMILIONsamestable.

Croix-de-Gay,laPomr★★★9596989900’01’0204050609’10’11Situatedinthebestpartofthecommune.Round,elegantstyle.LAFLEUR-DE-GAYismadefromthebestparcels.

SameownershipasFaizeau(MONTAGNEST-ÉMILION).CroixduCasse,laPomr★★9900’01’04050608091011

Locatedonsandy/gravelsoilsinthesouthofPOMEROL.Since2005ownedbyBORIE-MANOUX;investmentandimprovementfrom2008.Medium-bodied;bettervaluenow.

BringbacktheoldiesTheGirondeChamberofAgriculturewantsproducerstorediscoverB’X’sold-timegrapevarieties:CARMENÈRE,MALBECandPETITVERDOT.Widelyplantedinthe19thcentury,theyweremoreorlessabandonedinthe20th,butarenowbeingrecommendedforcertainterroirs.Improvedclonesandrootstocksaswellasloweryieldsaremakingthemviable.ThemessageisthattheywilladdextraspiceandcomplexitytotheclassicCAB/MERLOTblend.AlreadyCarmenèrecanbefoundat

CHXBRANE-CANTENACandCLERCMILON,MalbecatanumberofestatesinBLAYECÔTESDEBORDEAUXandPetitVerdotatKIRWANandPALMER,amongothers.

Croizet-BagesPaur★★→★★★9596’9800’020304050607080910’11Steadilyimproving(from2006)FifthGrowth.SameownersasRAUZAN-GASSIES.Anewregimeinthecellarisproducingricher,moreseriouswines.

Croque-MichotteSt-Émr★★98000103040508091011ClassicratherthanmodernST-ÉMILION.Unhappywiththelatestclassification(seeboxSt-Émilionclassification–2012version).

CruBourgeoisNowacertificateawardedannually.Qualityvariable.

Cruzeau,dePe-Lérwsw★★(r)010204050608091011(w)0405060708091011Large(two-thirdsred)v’yddeveloped

byAndréLurtonofLALOUVIÈREandCOUHINS-LURTON.Gd-valuewines.SAUVBL-dominatedwhite.

DalemB’xr★★000102030405’060809’10’11OneofFRONSAC’sleadinglights.Family-owned,MERLOT-dominated.Morefinesseandcharminnewmillennium.

DassaultSt-Émr★★98’99000102030405’060809’1011Consistent,modern,juicyGRANDCRUCLASSÉ.OwningfamilyofDassaultaviationfame.AlsoLaFleurinST-ÉMILIONandventuresinChileandArgentina.

Dauphine,delaB’xr★★→★★★000103040506’0809’10’1112SubstantialFRONSACestate.Wholesalechangeinlast15yrs.RenovationofCH,v’ydsplusnewwinery(2002).StablemateCANON-DE-BREMintegratedin2006.Morelandacquiredin2012.Organiccertificationin2015.Secondlabel:Delphis(from2006).

DauzacMargr★★→★★★90’94959698’9900’01020405

0608’09’10’1112FifthGrowth;nowdense,rich,darkwines.Ownedbyaninsurancecompany;managedbyChristineLurton,daughterofAndré,ofLALOUVIÈRE.Secondlabel:LaBastideDauzac.

Chinesewine-loversnowownseveraldozenwinepropertiesinBordeaux.

Derenoncourt,StéphaneB’xLeadingconsultantwinemaker;self-taught,focusedonterroir,fruit,balance.Ownproperty,Domdel’A,inCASTILLON.

DesmirailMargr★★→★★★010203040506070809’10’11ThirdGrowthownedbyDenisLurton,brotherofHenri(BRANE-CANTENAC).Fine,delicatestyle.

DestieuxSt-Émr★★989900’0103’0405’06070809’10’1112GRANDCRUCLASSÉlocatedeastofST-ÉMILIONatSt-Hippolyte.Bold,powerfulstyle;consistent.Winnerofthecoupdescrus

classésdeSt-Émilionat2012VinexpoAsia(HongKong).Doisy-DaëneBar(r)wdrsw★★★88’89’90’959697’98’99

01’02030405’06070910’11’Family-owned(Dubourdieu)estateproducinganage-worthy,drywhiteandCHCANTEGRIL,butaboveallrenownedforitsnotablyfine,sweetBarsac.L’Extravagant(969701020304050607091011)isanintenselyrichandexpensiveCUVÉE.

Doisy-DubrocaBarwsw★★080910TinyBARSACSecondGrowthalliedtoCLIMENS.Limitedproduction.

Doisy-VédrinesSautwsw★★★89’90959697’989901’03’0405070910’11’BARSACSecondGrowthownedbyCastéjafamily(Joannenégociant).Delicious,sturdy,rich:ageswell.Asurethingformanyyrs.

Dôme,leSt-Émr★★★040506080910’1112Microwine;usedtobesuper-oaky,from04moreelegant,relatedtoterroir.Two-thirdsold-vineCABFR.OwnedbyJonathanMaltus,with

stringofotherST-ÉMILIONs(eg.CHTeyssier,LeCarré,LesAstéries,Vieux-Ch-Mazerat)andCaliforniaNapaValleywines(World’sEnd).

Dominique,laSt-Émr★★★90’949596989900’010405’060809’10’1112ClassedgrowthadjacenttoCHEVALBLANC.Solidvalueuntil1996,thenwentofftheboil.Backonformsince2006.Newcellarsin2013(architectJeanNouvel).2010bestsince89.Secondlabel:StPauldeDominique.

DucluzeauListr★★010304050608091011TinysisterpropertyofDUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU.50/50MERLOT/CABSAUV.Round,well-balancedwines.

Ducru-BeaucaillouSt-Julr★★★★85’9495’96’989900’0102030405’06070809’10’1112OutstandingSecondGrowth,excellentformexceptforapatchinthelate1980s.AddedimpetusfromownerBrunoBoriefrom2003.Classiccedar-scentedclaret,suitedtolongageing.Secondlabel:Croix

deBeaucaillou(JadeJaggerdesignedlabelfrom2010).Duhart-MilonRothschildPaur★★★9596’9800’01020304’

05’06070809’10’1112FourthGrowthstablemateofLAFITE.Greaterprecisionfrom2002;increasinglyfinequality.PricesurgewithChinesehungerfortheRothschild(Lafite)brand.Secondlabel:MoulindeDuhart.

Durfort-VivensMargr★★★9094959698990002030405’060809’10’11Much-improvedMARGAUXSecondGrowthownedbyGonzagueLurton.Steadyconversiontobiodynamicsfrom2010.Alsoco-ownerofCHDomeyneinST-ESTÈPHE.Secondlabel:Vivens.

EchodeLynch-BagesPaur★★010203040508091011SecondlabelofLYNCH-BAGES.Until2008knownasHaut-Bages-Averous.Tastydrinking,fairlyconsistent.

l’Eglise,Domaine,dePomr★★969899000102030405’0607080910’1112Smallpropertyontheclay-gravelplateau:

stylish,resonantwine.DenisDubourdieuconsults.SamestableasTROTTEVIEILLEandCROIXDUCASSE.

l’Eglise-ClinetPomr★★★→★★★★89’90’93’94959698’9900’01’02030405’06070809’10’11’12Tinybuttop-flightestatewithgreatconsistency;full,concentrated,fleshywine.Owner-winemakerDenisDurantouexcels.Expensiveandlimitedquantity.Secondlabel:LaPetiteEglise.

L’EvangilePomr★★★★88’89’90959698’9900’01020304’05’06070809’10’1112NeighbourofCHLACONSEILLANTE.Rich,opulentstyle.Investmentbyowners(LAFITE)Rothschildgreatlyimprovedquality;09and10bestofthemodernera.Secondlabel:BlasondeL’Evangile.

Fargues,deSautwsw★★★8889909596979899’010203’0405’060709’10’11’V’ydattachedtoruinedcastleownedbyLur-Saluces(ex-ownerYQUEM).Techniquesthesame.Rich,unctuouswines,butbalanced.Longageing.

FaugèresSt-Émr★★→★★★989900’0203040506070809’10’1112Dark,fleshy,modern.PromotedtoGRANDCRUCLASSÉin2012aswassisterCHPébyFaugères(100%MERLOT).ImposingMarioBotta-designedwineryopened2009.SistertoCapdeFaugèresinCASTILLONandChambruninLALANDEDEPOMEROL.

Faurie-de-SouchardSt-Émr★★98’00030405060708091011PreviouslyunderperformingGRANDCRUCLASSÉonthecôtes.Recentinvestmentandgreatereffortfromnewgeneration.STÉPHANEDERENONCOURTconsults.

deFerrandSt-Émr★★0001030405060809’10’11BigSt-HippolyteestateownedbyBaronBich(Bicpens)family.UpgradedtoGRANDCRUCLASSÉin2012.Winesreleasedwith5yrsage.

FerrandeGravr(w)★★0204050608091011MajorestateatCastresownedbynégociantCastel.Steadyimprovement.Easy,

enjoyablered;clean,freshwhite.FerrièreMargr★★→★★★96’989900’020304050608

09’10’12TinyThirdGrowthwithaCHinMARGAUXvillagerestoredbysamecapablehandsasLAGURGUEandHAUT-BAGES-LIBÉRAL.Dark,firm,perfumedwinesneedtime.

Feytit-ClinetPomr★★9698990001030405’06070809’10’1112TinypropertyoncemanagedbyJ-PMOUEIX;backwithowningChasseuilfamilysince2000.Ongreatformsince.Rich,fullPOMEROLwithageingpotential.

FieuzalPe-Lér(w)★★★(r)98’000106070809’10’11(w)0102030506070809’10’11ClassifiedPESSAC-LÉOGNANestatewithIrishowner.Redbackonform06.Whitemoreconsistent.Newgravity-fedwinery(2011).Sevenofthe63vatscarrynamesoftheowner’sgrandchildren.ANGÉLUSownerconsultsforreds.

FigeacSt-Émr★★★★95’9698’9900’01’02030405’0607

0809’10’1112FirstGrowth;gravellyv’ydwithunusual70%CABFRandCABSAUV.Richbutalwayselegantwines;deceptivelylongageing.LegendaryownerThierryManoncourt(63vintages)diedin2010.Son-in-lawEricd’Aramoncontinuesthegdwork,butnotpromotedto(A)statusin2012classification,tothebafflementoffans.Secondwine:GrangeNeuvedeFigeac.

FilhotSautwdrsw★★96’97’989901’0203’04050709’10’11’Second-rankclassedgrowthwithsplendidCH,extensivev’yd.Difficultyoung,morecomplexwithage.Richerandpurerfrom09.

FleurCardinaleSt-Émr★★9899000102030405’06070809’10’1112ClassifiedpropertyinSt-Etienne-de-Lisse.Inoverdrivesince2001,withnewownerandchai.Alwaysoneofthelasttoharvest.Ripe,unctuous,modernstyle.

Fleur-de-Gay,LaPomr★★★1,000-casesuper-CUVÉE(old

vines)ofCHLACROIX-DE-GAY.100%MERLOT.Fleur-Pétrus,LaPomr★★★★90’94959698’9900’010203

0405’060809’10’1112J-PMOUEIXproperty;v’ydoppositeLAFLEUR.Laser-opticalsorter(2009):givesv.preciseselectionofgrapes.FinerstylethanPETRUSorTROTANOY.Needstime.

FombraugeSt-Émr★★→★★★989900’0102030405060809’10’11LargeBernardMagrezestate(seePAPE-CLÉMENT,LATOUR-CARNET,CLOSHAUT-PEYRAGUEY)promotedtoGRANDCRUCLASSÉin2012.Rich,dark,chocolatey,full-bodiedwines.Magrez-FombraugeisitsGARAGEwine.

FonbadetPaur★★00’0102030405’060809’10’11Family-ownedestate.EricBoissenotconsults.Reliable,gdvalueandtypicallyPAUILLAC.Finersince2007.

FonplégadeSt-Émr★★969800’0103040506’070809’10GRANDCRUCLASSÉownedbyAmericanStephenAdams.Progresssince2004:modern,concentrated.MICHELROLLAND

consults.CHL’EnclosinPOMEROLsameowner(2007).FonréaudListr★★9800’02030405060809’10’11Oneof

thebiggerandbetterLISTRACSmakingsavoury,mouthfillingwines.Smallvolumeofdrywhite:LeCygne,barrel-fermented.SeeLESTAGE.Gd-value.

FonroqueSt-Émr★★★969801030405060809’10’11GRANDCRUCLASSÉontheplateaunorthofST-ÉMILION.Biodynamics(since2008)payingoff;moreelegancerecently.ManagedbyAlainMoueix(seeMAZEYRES).MOULINDUCADETsisterestate.

FontenilB’xr★★01’02030405060809’10’11LeadingFRONSAC,ownedbyMichelROLLAND(1986).Ripe,opulent,balanced.GARAGE:DéfideFontenil.

FortsdeLatour,lesPaur★★★→★★★★89’90’9495’96’989900’01020304’05’06070809’10’1112The(worthy)secondwineofCHLATOUR;authenticflavourinslightlylighter

formatatSecondGrowthprice.Stoppedenprimeursalesfrom2012–wineswillnowbereleasedwhendeemedreadytodrink.

Fourcas-DupréListr★★98’00’010203040506080910’1112Well-run,makingfairlyconsistentwineintightLISTRACstyle.Yieldshavebeenlowered,chemicalweedkillersbanned.Betterwithbottle-age.Secondlabel:CHBellevue-Laffont.

Fourcas-HostenListr★★→★★★0102030506080910’1112Largeestatewithnewowners(Hermèsfashionconnection)from2006:considerableinvestmentandimprovementsincethen.Moreprecisionandfinesse.Towatch.

France,dePe-Lérw★★(r)000203040506080910’11(w)01’02030405060708091011NeighbourofFIEUZAL;consistent,ripe,modernstyle.Newchaiin2013;firein2011destroyedoldone;vintages11,12vinifiedinneighbours’cellars.

Franc-MayneSt-Émr★★98’00’0103040506080910’11

SmallGRANDCRUCLASSÉonthecôtes.Newownersin2004(sisterpropertiesCHDELUSSACandVieuxMailletinPOMEROL).Investmentandrenovation.Luxuryaccommodationaswell.Fresh,fruityandstructuredstyle.Roundbutfirmwines.

Gaby,duB’xr★★00’01’0304050607080910Splendidsouth-facingslopesinFRONSAC.NewCanadianownerin2006.Seriouswinesagewell.SisterCHMoyainCASTILLON-CÔTESDEBORDEAUX.

Gaffelière,laSt-Émr★★★89’90’959698’9900’01030405’06070809’10’1112FirstGrowthatfootofthecôtes.OwningMaletRoquefortfamilyoldestinST-ÉMILION(400yrs).Elegant,long-ageingwines.Greaterprecisionsince2000.CHArmens(St-Émilion)samestable.

GaliusSt-Émr★★Oak-agedselectionfromST-ÉMILIONco-op,usuallytohighstandard.

Garde,laPe-Lérw★★(r)98’0001’02040506070809’10’

11(w)0204050607080910’11SubstantialpropertyownedbynégociantCVBG-DOURTHE;reliable,supplereds.TinyproductionofSAUVBL/SauvignonGris-basedwhite.

Gay,lePomr★★★9698990001030405’06070809’10’11Finev’ydonnorthernedgeofPOMEROL.Majorinvestment,withMICHELROLLANDconsulting.Nowv.ripeandplummyinstyle.Improvementsfrom2003.CHMontvielandLaViolettesamestableandAC.Owneralsohasv’ydsinArgentina.

GazinPomr★★★90’959698’9900’0102030405’06070809’10’1112Large(forPOMEROL),family-ownedneighbourofPÉTRUS.Well-distributedandnowonv.gdform.Secondlabel:L’HospitaletdeGazin.

GiletteSautwsw★★★53555961677071757678798182838586888990ExtraordinarysmallPreignacCHstoresitssumptuouswinesinconcretevatsfor16–20yrs.Onlyaround5,000bottlesofeach.Somebottleagestilladvisable.ChLes

Justicesisitssister(99010203’05070910’11).GiscoursMargr★★★909596’989900’0102030405’0607

08’09’10’1112SubstantialThirdGrowthsouthofCantenac.V.gdvigorouswinein1970sandnow.1980swerewobbly;new(Dutch)ownershipfrom1995andsteadyimprovementsince.Secondlabel:LaSirènedeGiscours.CHDUTERTREstablemate.AsareChDuthilandLeHaut-MédocdeGiscours.

Glana,duSt-Julr★★98000203040506080910’Largeestate,expandedthroughacquisitionoflandfromCHLAGRANGE.Undemanding;undramatic;value.SameownerasBellegraveinPAUILLAC.Secondlabel:PavillonduGlana.

GloriaSt-Julr★★→★★★989900’0102030405’06070809’10’1112Awidelydispersedestatewithv’ydsamongtheclassedgrowths.SameownershipasST-PIERRE.Regularlyoverperforms.Secondlabel:Peymartin.

Gomerie,laSt-Émr★★→★★★09’10’111,000cases,100%

MERLOT;GARAGEwine.SeeBEAU-SÉJOUR-BÉCOT.

LosingoutIthasbeenestimatedthatthecostofproducingatonneau(900litres)ofB’Xthesedaysis€1,078.Unfortunatelytheaveragepriceinbulkisnotabove€1,000thetonneau.Productioncostsforthosewhobottletheirwinerunsto€2.88perbottlebeforeamargin(andtax)hasbeenadded.BearthatinmindthenexttimeyoubuyabottleofgenericB’x.

Grand-Corbin-DespagneSt-Émr★★→★★★9596989900’01030405060809’10’1112Gd-valueGRANDCRUCLASSÉontopform.Family-owned(Despagne)since1812;2012isthe200thvintage.Aromaticwinesnowwithariper,fulleredge.Organiccultivation.AlsoCHMaisonBlanche,MONTAGNEST-

ÉMILIONandChAmpélia,CASTILLON.Secondlabel:PetitCorbin-Despagne.

GrandCruClasséSeeboxSt-Émilionclassification–2012version.

Grand-MayneSt-Émr★★★89’90’949596989900’01’02030405’06070809’10’1112Leading,family-owned(Nonysince1934)GRANDCRUCLASSÉonwesterncôtes.Consistent,firm,full,savourywines.

Grand-PontetSt-Émr★★★98’00’01020304050608091011GRANDCRUCLASSÉonthecôtes.Powerful,generousstyle.FamilyconnectiontoBEAU-SÉJOUR-BÉCOT.

Grand-Puy-DucassePaur★★★9596’98’99000102030405’06070809’10’1112FifthGrowthownedbyabank;stop-startquality.Moreconsistentsince2005.Newwinemaker2010.DenisDubourdieuconsults.Secondlabel:PréludeàGrand-Puy-Ducasse.

Grand-Puy-LacostePaur★★★88’89’90’9495’96’989900’0102030405’060708’09’10’1112FifthGrowthfamousforgd-valueCABSAUV-drivenPAUILLACtolaydown.SameownershipasHAUT-BATAILLEY.Recentinvestment.Secondlabel:Lacoste-Borie.

GraveàPomerol,laPomr★★★959698’0001020405060809’1011SmallpropertyfacingLalande-de-Pomerol.OwnedbyChristianMOUEIX.Accessible,withmediumrichness.FormerlyknownasLaGraveTrigantdeBoisset.

AwashatseaInthe18thcenturyitwassaidthatwinetransportedbyseaintallshipsagedbetterthanintheCH.Threemonthsatseaisworth3yrsinthecellar,wastheadage.SoChLARRIVET-HAUT-BRIONputthetheorytothetest,ageinga55-litrebarrelofthe

2009redintheoysterbedsoftheBayofArcachonforsixmonths,andthencomparingitwithabarrelagedinthecellar.Theresult?Thewineagedinthesaltyseatastedmoresuppleandaromaticandthealcoholcontenthadbeenreducedfrom13.8%to13%ABV.Itwasgenerallythewinepreferred,butthatcouldallchangeinanother3yrs.

Gressier-Grand-PoujeauxMour★★90959698000104050910’Since2003,sameownerasCHASSE-SPLEEN.5,000casesaverage.Littlevisibility.Solidinthepastandinneedofageing.

GreysacMédr★★9800’02030405’06080910’11Large,elegantestateacquiredbyownerofCHRollan-de-ByandHAUT-CONDISSASin2012.Fine,consistentquality.

Gruaud-LaroseSt-Julr★★★★8889’90’95’96’989900’0102030405’06070809’10’1112Oneofthebiggest,best-

lovedSecondGrowths.Smooth,rich,vigorousclaret;ages20yrs+.Morefinessefrom2007.Secondlabel:SargetdeGruaud-Larose.

GuadetSt-Ém★★0104050608091011ClassedgrowthwithquarriedcellarsintherueGuadet,ST-ÉMILION.Formwobblypre-2000.Improvementsince.Organiccertificationfrom2010.

GuiraudSaut(r)w(dr)sw★★★89’90’9596’97’989901’02030405’060709’10’11’Organicallycertified(2011)classedgrowth.Owningconsortiumincllong-timemanager,XavierPlantyandPeugeot(cars)family.Topquality,moreSAUVBLthanmost.DrywhiteGdeGuiraud.Secondlabel:PetitGuiraud(2005).

Gurgue,laMargr★★00’0102030405’060809’1011Well-placedproperty.SamemanagementasFERRIÈREandHAUT-BAGES-LIBÉRAL.Fine.Gd-value.

HanteillanH-MédCissacr★★00’02030405’0609’10Huge

northernv’yd:v.fairwines,early-drinking;50%MERLOT.Secondlabel:CHLaborde.

Haut-Bages-LibéralPaur★★★96’9899000102030405’060809’10’1112Lesser-knownFifthGrowth(nexttoLATOUR)insamestableasFERRIÈREandLAGURGUE.Resultsareexcellent,fullofPAUILLACvitality.Usuallygdvalue.

Haut-Bages-MonpelouPaur★★980003040506080910StablemateofBATAILLEYonformerDUHART-MILONland.Couldimprove.

Haut-BaillyPe-Lér★★★★89’90’9596’98’9900’0102030405’060708’09’10’11’Top-rankPESSAC-LÉOGNANclassedgrowthownedbyAmericanbankersince1998.Continuedprogresssince.Onlyredwine–refined,elegantstyle(parcelofveryoldvines).CHLePape(Léognan)newacquisitionin2012.Secondlabel:LaPardedeHaut-Bailly.

Haut-BatailleyPaur★★★9596’98990002030405’0607

0809’10’1112SmallerpartofdividedFifthGrowthBATAILLEY.GentlerthansisterGRAND-PUY-LACOSTE.Newcellarin2005;moreprecision.Secondlabel:LaTour-l’Aspic.

Haut-BeauséjourSt-Estr★★0001030405080910PropertyrevitalizedbyownerChampagneROEDERER.Supple,roundstyle.SeealsoDEPEZ.

Haut-BergeyPe-Lér(w)★★(r)98990001020405060708091011(w)0405060708091011PropertyofsisterofownerofSMITH-HAUT-LAFITTE.Completelyrenovatedinthe1990s.Rich,modernGRAVESwithoakoverlay.Alsoalittledrywhite.BARDE-HAUT,CLOSL’ÉGLISEandCHBranonsamestable.

Haut-BrionPe-Lér★★★★(r)82’83’85’86’88’89’90’939495’96’9798’9900’0102030405’060809’10’11’12Establishedinthe16thcentury.Onlynon-MÉDOCFirstGrowthof1855,ownedbyAmericanDillonfamilysince1935.Deeplyharmonious,neveraggressivewine.Consistentlygreatsince

1975.NeighbouringDOMAllaryHaut-Brionv’ydintegratedin2012.Alittledry,sumptuouswhite:9093949596989900’01020304’05’060708’0910’11’12.SeeLECLARENCEDEHAUT-BRION,LAMISSION-HAUT-BRION,LAVILLE-HAUT-BRION.

HautCondissasMédr★★★010203040506070809’10’11MÉDOCwithaninternationalflavour.SistertoCHRollan-de-By.Rich,concentratedandoaky.MERLOT(60%)andPETITVERDOT(20%)theessentialcomponents.

Haut-MarbuzetSt-Estr★★→★★★989900’0102030405’06070809’10’11Only7hawhenstartedin1952;now70ha.Fourth-Growthquality,butunclassified.Two-thirdsoftheproductionsolddirectlybytheCH.Rich,unctuousMerlot-based(60%)winesthatagewell.Chambert-Marbuzet,MacCarthy,TourdeMarbuzetandLayauga-Duboscqsamestable.

Haut-PontetSt-Émr★★00010304050910TinyMERLOT-dominatedv’ydonthecôtes.OwnedbyJanoueix(seenext

entry)from2007.Haut-SarpeSt-Émr★★969800’0104050608091011

GRANDCRUCLASSÉwithelegantCHandpark,70%MERLOT.Sameowner(Janoueix)asCHLACROIX,POMEROL.Rich,dark,modernstyle.

HosannaPomr★★★★990001030405’06070809’10’11’FormerlyCertan-GuirauduntilpurchasedandrenamedbyJ-PMOUEIXin1999.Onlybestpartretained.Firstvintagesconfirmpower,complexityandclass.Newcellarin2008,sharedwithProvidence.StablemateofTROTANOY.

d’IssanMargr★★★9800’01020304’05’06070809’10’1112ThirdGrowthv’ydwithmoatedCH.Fragrantwines;moresubstancesincelate1990s.OwnerEmmanuelCruseisthegrandmasteroftheCommanderieduBontempsConfrérie.Secondlabel:Blasond’Issan.

KirwanMargr★★★9596989900’0102030405’060708

0910’1112ThirdGrowthmajority-ownedbySchröder&Schÿler(since1997).FormerPALMERwinemakerapplyingmorefinessefrom2007.Towatch.Secondlabel:LesCharmesdeKirwan.

LabégorceMargr★★→★★★0102030405’07080910’1112In2009absorbedneighbouringLABÉGORCE-ZÉDÉ,returningtoits18th-centuryform.Solid,long-lived.CHMARQUIS-D’ALESMEsamestable.

Labégorce-ZédéMargr★★→★★★9596’989900’0102030405’0607RIP.From2009,partofCHLABÉGORCE(seepreviousentry).Oldvintagesclassicandfragrantinstyle.

Lafaurie-PeyragueySautwsw★★★83’8586’88’89’90’9596’97989901’0203’0405’060709’10’11’LeadingclassedgrowthatBommes,ownedbyabank.5,500casesofrich,concentratedbutharmoniouswines.CellarsandCHrenovated(1998–04).Consistentandrelativelygdvaluesince

theremarkable83.Secondlabel:LaChapelledeLafaurie.Lafite-RothschildPaur★★★★8586’88’89’90’93949596’

9798’9900’01’0203’04’05’060708’09’10’11’12FirstGrowthoffamouselusiveperfumeandstyle,butnevergreatweight,althoughmoredensityandsleekertexturefrom96.Greatvintagesneedkeepingfordecades;insatiabledemandfromChinahasdriventhepricesky-high(thoughdownfromthepeakof2010).JointventuresinChile(1988),California(1989),Portugal(1992),Argentina(1999),nowtheMIDI,Italy–evenChina.Secondlabel:CARRUADESDELAFITE.AlsoownsCHXDUHART-MILON,L’EVANGILE,RIEUSSEC.

LafleurPomr★★★★85’8688’89’90’9394959698’99’00’01’020304’05’06’070809’10’11’12Superbfamily-ownedand-managedpropertycultivatedlikeagarden.Elegant,intensewineformaturing.50%CABFR.Secondlabel:PenséesdeLafleur.

OrganicsgaininggroundB’X’smaritimeclimateisnotparticularlyconducivetoorganiccultivation(fungaldisease,etc.)butthemovementisdefinitelygainingground.From2,782hacultivatedorganicallyin2008,B’xmovedto7,274hain2012.Thereareevenanumberoficonicestatesthathavetakentheorganicorbiodynamicpledge–witnessDURFORT-VIVENS,FONROQUE,GUIRAUD,LATOUR,PONTET-CANET–sotheinitiativelookssettocontinue.Localconsumersareclearlyinterested.TheannualMarchéGourmanddesVinsBiohelditssixthweekendfairinB’x-Bèglesin2012.

Lafleur-GazinPomr★★000104050608091011SmallJ-PMOUEIXestatelocatedbetweenLAFLEURandGAZIN.Lighterstyle.

Lafon-RochetSt-Estr★★★89’90’9596’989900’010203’

0405’060809’10’1112FourthGrowthneighbourofCOSD’ESTOURNEL,Distinctiveyellowcellars(andlabel).SamefamilyownershipasPONTET-CANET.AhigherpercentageofMERLOThasmadethisST-ESTÈPHEmoreopulentsince1998.Gdvalue.Secondlabel:LesPèlerinsdeLafon-Rochet.

LagrangeSt-Julr★★★89’90’949596989900’0102030405’060809’10’11Substantial(115ha)ThirdGrowthownedbySuntory(since1983).Nowintip-topcondition.Muchinvestmentinv’ydandcellars(renovatedwinerywith94vats).DrywhiteLesArumsdeLagrange(since1997).Secondlabel:LesFiefsdeLagrange(gdvalue).

LagrangePomr★★95969800010405060910Tinyv’ydinthecentreofPOMEROLrunbytheubiquitoushouseofJ-PMOUEIX.MainlyMERLOT.GdvaluebutnotinthesameleagueasHOSANNA,LAFLEUR-PÉTRUS,etc.

Lagune,laH-Médr★★★90’9596’9800’02030405’0708

09’10’11ThirdGrowthwithsandy/gravelsoils.Qualitydippedin1990sbutnowonform.Winesarefine-edgedwithaddedstructureanddepth.Alaser-opticalgrapesorterhasbeeninusesince2010.OwnedbyJ-JFrey;seealsoJABOULETAÎNÉ.DaughterCarolineiswinemaker.

Lalande-BorieSt-Julr★★00010203040506070809’10’11AbabybrotherofthegreatDUCRU-BEAUCAILLOUcreatedfrompartoftheformerv’ydofCHLAGRANGE.Gracious,easy-drinkingwine.

Lamarque,deH-Médr★★989900’02030405’060809’10’11CentralHAUT-MÉDOCv’ydwithsplendidmedievalfortress.Competent,mid-termwines.Secondwine:DdeLamarque.

LamotheBergeronH-Médr★★98’000203040509’10’11LargeestateinCussac-Fort-MÉDOC.OwnedbyCognachousesHardyandMounier(since2009).Reliableifunexceptional,butimproving.

LanessanH-Médr★★9800’020304050809’10’11DistinguishedpropertyjustsouthofST-JULIEN.FormerCalvetandCordier-Mestrezatwinemaker,PazEspejo,nowincharge–improvementssince2009.Horsemuseumandtours.

Langoa-BartonSt-Julr★★★90’95’96’989900’01020304’05’06070809’10’1112ThirdGrowthsisterCHtoLÉOVILLE-BARTON.HometoAnthonyBarton;impeccablestandards,gd-value.Secondlabel:RésdeLéoville-Barton.

Larcis-DucasseSt-Émr★★★89’90’949596980002030405’06070809’10’1112Newlypromoted(2012)PREMIERGRANDCRUCLASSÉonthecôtesatSt-Laurent.Spectacularriseinquality(andprice)since2002.SamemanagementasPAVIE-MACQUIN.

LarmandeSt-Émr★★98’00’01030405070809’10SubstantialpropertyownedbyLeMondialeinsurance(asisSOUTARD).Replanted,re-equipped;nowconsistentlysolid

wines.Secondlabel:leCadetdeLarmande.LaroqueSt-Émr★★→★★★9596989900’010304050608

09’10’11LargeclassifiedgrowthatSt-Christophe-des-Bardes.17th-centuryCH.Fresh,terroir-drivenwines.

Larose-TrintaudonH-Médr★★03040506070809’1011Thelargestv’ydintheMÉDOC(190ha).Sustainableviticulture.Previouslylightandeasy-drinkingbutimprovedqualityfrom07.Secondlabel:LaroseSt-Laurent.SpecialCUVÉE(from1996)–LarosePerganson–fromseparateparcels.

LarozeSt-Émr★★96’98’9900010506070809’10’12Largev’ydwestofST-ÉMILION.Lighter-framedwinesfromsandysoils,moredepthfrom1998;ANGÉLUSownerconsults.Tribaiegrape-sortingmachine(sortsbyspecificgravity,thusripeness).Secondlabel:LaFleurLaroze.

Larrivet-Haut-BrionPe-Lérw★★★(r)98’000102030405’0607080910’1112PESSAC-LÉOGNANpropertyownedby

BonneMamanjamconnectionsince1987.Rich,modernred.AlsoSAUVBL/SÉMbarrel-fermentedwhite(04’050607080910’1112).FormerMONTROSEmanagerinchargesince2007.MICHELROLLANDconsults.Secondlabel:LesDemoisellesdeLarrivet-Haut-Brion.

LascombesMargr(p)★★★90’96’98’99000102030405’06070809’10’1112SecondGrowthownedbyFrenchinsurancegroup(2011).Wineswerewobbly,butrealimprovementsfrom2001.MICHELROLLANDconsults.WinemakerpreviouslywithL’EVANGILE.Modernstyle.Secondlabel:ChevalierdeLascombes.

LatourPaur★★★★(★)82’858688’8990’919495’96’97989900’010203’04’05’06070809’10’11’12FirstGrowthconsideredthegrandeststatementoftheMÉDOC.Profound,intense,almostimmortalwinesingreatyrs;evenweakervintageshavetheuniquetasteandrunformanyyrs.

Recentlyenlargedbutgrandvinstillfromhistoric“Enclos”v’yd.Latouralwaysneeds10yrstoshowitshand.Partofthev’ydbiodynamicallycultivated(inclhorsesforploughing).Setcatamongpigeonswhenitceasedenprimeursalesin2012:winesnowonlyreleasedwhenreadytodrink.Secondlabel:LESFORTSDELATOUR;thirdlabel:Pauillac.

AgneaudePauillaccancomefromthewholeGironde.RatherasifLatourcamefromtheLandes.

Latour-à-PomerolPomr★★★89’90’94959698’9900’01020405’06070809’10’1112Topgrowthonplateau,underJ-PMOUEIXmanagement.Rich,well-structuredwinesthatage.Rarelydisappoints.

Latour-MartillacPe-Lérw★★(r)98000102030405’060809’10’1112Family-owned,classed-growthpropertyinMartillac.Regularquality(rw);gd-valueatthislevel.White

canageaswell(01020304050607080910’1112).Laurets,desSt-Émr★★03040506080910Majorpropertyin

PUISSEGUIN-ST-ÉMILIONandMONTAGNE-ST-ÉMILION,withv’ydevenlysplitonthecôtes(40,000cases).OwnedbyBenjamindeRothschildofCHCLARKE(2003).

Laville-Haut-BrionPe-Léw★★★★9495’96’9800’01020304’05’060708’FormernameforLAMISSIONHAUT-BRIONBLANC(renamedin2009).Only8,000bottles/yrofv.bestwhiteGRAVESforlong,succulentmaturing.Greatconsistency.MainlySÉM.Secondwine:LaClartédeHaut-Brion(formerlyLesPlantiers);alsoinclwinefromHAUT-BRION.

Léoville-BartonSt-Julr★★★★88’89’90’94’95’96’989900’010203’0405’060708’09’10’1112SecondGrowthwiththelongest-standingfamilyownership;inAnglo-IrishhandsoftheBartonsforover180yrs(AnthonyBartonispresentincumbent,assistedbydaughterLilian).Smallestofthe

threeLéovilles;harmonious,classicclaret;fairprices.Generallytraditionalmethodsbutoptical-lasersorterfrom2011.SeeLANGOA-BARTON.

Léoville-las-CasesSt-Julr★★★★83’85’86’8889’90’939495’96’97989900’010203’04’05’06070809’10’11’12LargestLéovilleandoriginal“super-Second”;grandvinfromGrandEnclosv’yd.Elegant,complex,powerfulwines,forimmortality.Secondlabel:LePetitLion(2007);previouslyCLOSDUMARQUIS,butlatternowconsideredaseparatewine.Laser-opticalgrapesortingfrom2009.

TopPauillaccostsc.€29/bottletomake,includinglandcosts.TopSauternescostsc.€17,Napa(California)c.€20.

Léoville-PoyferréSt-Julr★★★86’8889’90’949596’989900’0102030405’06070809’10’11’12The3rdpartofthegreatLéovilleestate;itsbestvineslieoppositetheGrandEnclos

ofLÉOVILLE-LAS-CASES.NowatSuperSecondlevelwithdark,rich,spicy,long-ageingwines.ROLLANDconsultsattheestate.Secondlabel:CHMoulin-Riche.

LestageListr★★00020304050608091011LISTRACestateinsamehandsasCHFONRÉAUD.MoreMERLOT(56%).Firm,slightlyaustereclaret.Secondwine:LaDamedeCoeurdeChLestage.

LilianLadouysSt-Estr★★9698000203040506070809’10’11Createdinthe1980s,thev’ydhas100parcelsofvines.Firm,sometimesrobustwines;recentvintagesmorefinesse.Newownerin2008(ownerofrugbyclubRacingMétro92and,since2009,PEDESCLAUX).SamemanagementasBelle-VueinHAUT-MÉDOC.

LiotBarwsw★★9697’989901’02030507091011BARSACneighbourofCLIMENS.Consistent,fairlylight,goldenwines.Easy-drinkingandinexpensive.

LiversanH-Médr★★9698000203040507080910PropertyinlandfromPAUILLAC.SameownerasPATACHED’AUX.Quality-oriented;delicatestyle.Secondlabel:LesCharmesdeLiversan.

LoudenneMédr★★00’01020304050609’10’1118th-centurypink-washedchartreusebytherivermadefamousbyGilbey’s.Ownedsince2000byLafragettefamily.DaughterFlorenceismanager.Ripe,roundreds.Alsoanoak-scentedSAUVBLwhite(05060708091011).And,ofcourse,arosé:PinkdeLoudenne.

Loupiac-GaudietB’xwsw★★99010203’0507091011Areliablesourceofgd-value“almost-SAUTERNES”,justacrossriverGaronneinLOUPIACAC.

Louvière,laPe-Lérw★★★(r)989900’01020405’06070809’10’11(w)0001020304’05’06070809’10’11AndréLurton’sprideandjoy.Excellentwhiteandredofclassed-growthstandard.SeealsoBONNET,COUHINS-LURTON,DE

CRUZEAU,DEROCHEMORIN.CréditAgricolebanknowhasshareincompany:VignoblesAndréLurton(2012).

Lussac,deSt-Émr★★00030405060708091011OneofthebestestatesinLUSSAC-ST-ÉMILION.SamestableasFRANC-MAYNEandVieuxMailletinPOMEROL.SmallparcelnowgraftedtoSÉMforawhitewine.

Lynch-BagesPaur(w)★★★★85’86’88’89’90’9495’96’989900’01020304’05’06070809’10’1112Alwayspopular,nowaregularstar,farhigherthanitsFifthGrowthrank.Rich,robust,CAB-flavourwine:deliciouslydense.SeeECHODELYNCH-BAGES.Thirdwinefrom2009.Gdwhite,BlancdeLynch-Bages(since2007),nowfresher.Sameowners(Cazesfamily;newgeneration–Jean-Charles–nowincharge)asLESORMES-DE-PEZandVillaBel-Air.

Lynch-MoussasPaur★★96’9800’0102030405’07080910’11FifthGrowthownedbyBORIE-MANOUX,homeof

presidentofB’XGRANDSCRUS.Lighter,fruitierPAUILLAC.Improvementssince2001.

Lyonnat,duSt-Émr★★010304050608091011PropertyinLUSSAC-ST-ÉMILION.Reliablewine.RhônemodernizerJ-LColomboisconsultingoenologist.

Macquin-St-GeorgesSt-Émr★★989900010304050608091011Producerofdelicious,notweighty,satelliteST-ÉMILIONatST-GEORGES.Consistent.

MagdelaineSt-Émr★★★89’90’94959698’990001030405060809’10’11RIPfrom2012–nowintegratedintoBELAIR-MONANGE.Delicate,fineanddeceptivelylong-lived.Denserweightfrom2008.

Malartic-LagravièrePe-Lér(w)★★★(r)96989900’01020304’05’060809’10’1112(w)0001’020304’05’06070809’10’1112Léognanclassedgrowth.Rich,modernredwinesincelate1990s;alittlelushSAUVBLwhite.Belgianowner

(since1997)hasrevolutionizedtheproperty.MICHELROLLANDadvises.CHGazinRocquencourt(PESSAC-LÉOGNAN)newacquisitionin2006.

MalescasseH-Médr★★00010203040506080910RenovatedpropertynrMOULIS.Newownershipin2012.Supple,inexpensivewines,accessibleearly.Secondlabel:LaCloseriedeMalescasse.

Malescot-St-ExupéryMargr★★★9596989900’0102030405’060708’09’10’1112ThirdGrowthreturnedtofineforminthe1990s.Nowripe,fragrantandfinelystructured.Ageswell.MICHELROLLANDadvises.

Malle,deSautrwdrsw★★★(wsw)89’90’949596’97’989901’0203’0506070910’11’Beautiful17thcenturyPreignacCHmakingv.fine,medium-bodiedSAUTERNES;alsoMdeMalledrywhiteandGRAVESChduCardaillan.

MarbuzetSt-Estr★★989900’0102030405’06Since2007

integratedintoCOS-D’ESTOURNEL.Nowasecondlabelnameforcertainmarkets.

Margaux,ChâteauMargr(w)★★★★85’86’88’89’90’939495’96’9798’9900’01’0203’04’05’06’070809’10’11’12MARGAUXFirstGrowth;mostseductive,fabulouslyperfumedandconsistentwines.OwnedandrunbyCorinneMentzelopoulos;fatherboughtthepropertyin1977.NewNormanFoster-designedcellarsin2013.PavillonRouge(00’01020304’05’060809’10’11)issecondlabel;athirdwineshortly.PavillonBlanc(100%SAUVBL)isbestwhiteofMÉDOC,atFirstGrowthprice(01’020304’0506070809’10’11’).

LatestswankynewcellarcommissionisatChMargaux:SirNormanFoster.

MarojalliaMargr★★★9900’0102030405’06070809’1011Micro-CHlookingforbigpricesforbig,rich,beefy,un-

MARGAUX-likewines.MICHELROLLANDconsults.UpmarketB&Balso.Secondlabel:ClosMargalaine.

Marquis-d’AlesmeMargr★★9800010405070809’10’11ThirdGrowthpurchasedbyLABÉGORCEin2006.Dropped“Becker”handlein2009.Hasbeendisappointinginrecentyrsbutimprovementfrom2007.Towatch.

Marquis-de-TermeMargr★★→★★★90’9596989900’0102030405’06070809’10’1112FourthGrowth,v’yddispersedaroundMARGAUX.Betterformsince2000.Newmanager2009,richerstyle.Previouslysolidratherthanelegant.

MartinensMargr★★0002030405060910Cantenacestate,makinglight,supplewines.

MaucaillouMour★★01020304050608091011Visitor-friendly(museum,shop,film,tasting)MOULISproperty.Clean,fresh,valuewines.Secondlabel:No2deMaucaillou.

MazeyresPomr★★98’9900010405’0608091011

ConsistentifnotexcitinglesserPOMEROLonsandiersoils.AlainMoueix,cousinofChristianofJ-PMOUEIX,manageshere.Biodynamicfrom2012.SeeFONROQUE.

MeyneySt-Estr★★→★★★959698000102030405’060809’10’11’Largeriverside-slopepropertynexttoMONTROSE.Rich,robust,well-structuredwines.SamestableasGRAND-PUY-DUCASSEandRAYNEVIGNEAU(ownedbyabank).DenisDubourdieuconsults.Secondlabel:PrieurdeMeyney.

MissionHaut-Brion,LaPe-Lér★★★★85’868889’90’93949596’98’9900’0102030405’06070809’10’11’30thanniversaryofownershipbytheDillonfamilyofHAUT-BRIONin2013.Averageageofthev’ydalso30yrs.Consistentlygrand-scale,full-blooded,long-maturingwine;moreflamboyantthanHAUT-BRION.Nowconsideredtheunofficial6thFirstGrowth(1855).Secondlabel:LaChapelledelaMission.White:previouslyLAVILLE-HAUT-BRION;renamed(2009)LaMission-

Haut-BrionBlanc(09’10’11’).MonbousquetSt-Émr(w)★★★989900’0102030405’0607

0809’10’11SubstantialGRANDCRUCLASSÉonsandandgravelplainrevolutionizedbyownerGerardPérse.Nowconcentrated,oaky,voluptuouswines.Rarev.gdwhite(ACB’X)from1998.SameownershipasPAVIEandPAVIE-DECESSE.

MonbrisonMargr★★→★★★89’909596’98990001020405’060809’10’1112Family-ownedpropertyatArsac.Delicate,fragrantMARGAUX.

Mondotte,laSt-Émr★★★→★★★★96’9798’9900’01020304’05’06070809’10’1112TinyestateonthelimestoneplateaupromotedtoPREMIERGRANDCRUCLASSÉin2012.Intense,alwaysfirm,virilewines.SameownershipasCANON-LA-GAFFELIÈRE,CLOSDEL’ORATOIRE.

MontroseSt-Estr★★★→★★★★8889’90’93949596’989900’010203’04’05’06070809’10’1112SecondGrowth

withv’ydoverlookingtheGirondeEstuary.Famedfordeep-coloured,forceful,long-ageingclaret.Vintages1979–85(except82)werelighter.After110yrsinfamilyhands,changeofownershipin2006.Ex-MOUTON-ROTHSCHILDcommercialdirector,HervéBerland,nowmanaging.Environmentallyconsciousrenovation.Secondlabel:LaDamedeMontrose.

Moulin-à-VentMour★★00’02030405’060910’SteadyCRUBOURGEOIS(2010);reasonablyregularquality.Supple,early-drinking.

MoulindelaRoseSt-Julr★★01’02030405060809’1011Tinyestate;highstandards.SameownershipasSégurdeCabanacinST-ESTÈPHE.

MoulinduCadetSt-Émrp★★9698000103050910’TinyGRANDCRUCLASSÉv’ydonthelimestoneplateau,managedbyAlainMoueix(seealsoMAZEYRES).Biodynamicspractised.Robustwinesbutmoredepthandfinessein09and10.

MoulinetPomr★★98000104050608091011OneofPOMEROL’sbiggerCH.DERENONCOURTconsultantfrom2009.Lighterstyle.Gdvalue.

Moulin-Haut-LaroqueB’xr★★0405’060809’10’11LeadingFRONSACpropertyinsamefamilyhandssincethelate19thcentury.ProducesstructuredwinesthatcanagefromMERLOT,CABFRand80-yr-oldMALBEC.

MoulinPey-LabrieB’xr★★98’9900’0102030405’060809’10’11LeadingCHinCANON-FRONSAC.Stylishwines,MERLOT-dominated,witheleganceandstructure.

Moulin-St-GeorgesSt-Émr★★★989900’0102030405’060809’10’11Stylishandrichwine.Classed-growthlevel.SameownershipasAUSONE.

MoutonRothschildPaur(w)★★★★82’83’85’86’88’89’90’93’9495’969798’9900’01’020304’05’06’0708’09’10’11’12ThemostexoticandvoluptuousofthePAUILLACfirst

growths.Attainsnewheightsfrom2004.Newcellarfor2012harvest.Famousartistslabelssince1945(Picasso,Dalí,Miró,etc.2010:JeffKoons).Artmuseumreopens2013.WhiteAiled’Argentfrom91.Secondlabel:LePetitMoutonfrom1997.SeealsoOpusOne(California)andAlmaviva(Chile).

NairacSautwsw★★90’95’9697’989901’0203’0405’060709’1011RichstyleofBARSAC;ontopformsince2003.Secondlabel:EsquissedeNairac,equallyrichbutfresherinstyle.

Sharedinterest:26haChRéautinCadillacCôtesdeBordeauxhas439owners.

NéninPomr★★★9596989900’010203040506070809’10’11LÉOVILLE-LAS-CASESownershipsince1997.Massiveinvestment.Newcellars.4haofformerCertan-Giraudaddedin1999.AlessopulentandgenerousPOMEROLbutbuilttoage;09

and10bestyet.Gd-valuesecondlabel:FuguedeNenin.OlivierPe-Lérw★★★(r)959600010204’05’060809’10’

1112(w)0001020304’05’0607’080910’1112ClassifiedPESSAC-LÉOGNANpropertywithamoatedcastle.Newinvestmentandgreaterpurity,expressionandqualityfrom2002.Long-timeownerJean-JacquesdeBethmanndiedin2012;sonAlexandreisnowincharge.

Ormes-de-Pez,lesSt-Estr★★→★★★96989900’010203040506070809’10’11OutstandingST-ESTÈPHEownedbyLYNCH-BAGES.Dense,fleshywinesneed5–6yrs.

Ormes-Sorbet,lesMédr★★9900’010203’0405060809’10’11Long-timeleaderinnorthernMÉDOCatCouquèques.Elegant,gentlyoakedwinesthatage.Consistentlyreliable.Secondlabel:CHdeConques.

PalmerMargr★★★★83’8586’88’899093949596’98’990001’02030405’06’0708’09’10’11’12ThirdGrowthon

aparwiththeSuperSeconds.Wineofpower,delicacyandmuchMERLOT(40%).Dutch(MÄHLER-BESSE)andBritish(SICHELfamily)owners.£7millioninvestmentinnewcellars(2010–13).UniquewhitemadefromLauzetandMuscadelle.Secondlabel:AlterEgodePalmer.

Pape-ClémentPe-Lér(w)★★★→★★★★(r)90’94959698’9900’010203040506070809’10’1112(w)02030405’07080910’1112NamedafterPopeClémentV.OwnedbyBernardMagrezsince1985;recordofpotent,oak-scented,long-ageingifnottypicalreds.Tinyproductionofrich,exoticwhite.Ambitiousnew-wavedirectionfrom2000(grapeshand-destemmed!).Oxennowusedforploughingandbeehiveskeptinthev’yd.

Parenchère,deB’xr(w)★★0506070809’10’11UsefulACSte-FoyB’XandACBORDEAUXSUPÉRIEURfromlargeestatewithhandsomeCH.CUVÉERaphaelbest.

Patached’AuxMédr★★0002030405’0607091011CRUBOURGEOIS(2010)MÉDOCpropertyatBégadan.Gd-value,reliable,largelyCABSAUVwine.SeealsoLIVERSAN.

PavieSt-Émr★★★★90’949596989900’010203’0405’06070809’10’1112PromotedtoPREMIERGRANDCRUCLASSÉ(A)in2012.Splendidlysitedontheplateauandsoutherncôtes.BoughtbyownerofMONBOUSQUET(1998),alongwithadjacentPAVIE-DECESSE.New-waveST-ÉMILION:intense,oaky,strong.Ambitiousnewwineryunveiledin2013(noexpensespared).

Pavie-DecesseSt-Émr★★98’9900’01’02030405’06070809’10’1112Tinyclassedgrowth(only1,000cases).EvenmorepowerfulandmuscularthanPAVIE.

Pavie-MacquinSt-Émr★★★89’90’949596’98’9900’0102030405’06070809’10’1112FirstGrowthwithv’ydonthelimestoneplateaueastofST-ÉMILIONadjacenttoTROPLONG-MONDOT.AstutemanagementandwinemakingbyNicolas

ThienpontofPUYGUERAUD;DERENONCOURTconsultant.Powerful,structuredwinesthatneedtimeinbottle.

PedesclauxPaur★★98’990002030405060910’11UnderachievingFifthGrowthbeingrevivedandreorganized.Newowner2009(seeLILIANLADOUYS)andimprovement.Supplewineswithupto50%MERLOT.Recentvintagesgd-value.

Petit-VillagePomr★★★959698’9900’0103040506070809’10’1112TopPOMEROLoppositeVIEUX-CH-CERTAN.Laggeduntil2005.DERENONCOURTconsulting.Newcellarin2007.Sameowner(AXAInsurance)asPICHON-LONGUEVILLEsince1989.Powerful,plummylabel.Secondlabel:LeJardindePetit-Village.

PetrusPomr★★★★7879’8182’8385’8688’89’9093’9495’969798’9900’01020304’05’06070809’10’11’12The(unofficial)FirstGrowthofPOMEROL:MERLOTsoloinexcelsis.V’ydongravellyclaygiving2,500casesofmassively

rich,concentratedwine,onallocationtotheworld’smillionaires.Eachvintageaddslustre.OlivierBerrouet(sonofJean-Claude)winemakersince2007.Jean-FrançoisMOUEIXowner.Newcellarcomplexreadyfor2012harvest.

PeyrabonH-Médr★★00’01020304050609’1011Seriousestateownedbynégociant(Millésima).AlsoLaFleur-PeyraboninPAUILLAC.

Pez,deSt-Estr★★★96’98’99000102030405’06070809’10’1112OutstandingST-ESTÈPHEownedbyROEDERER(1995).SamewinemakingteamasPICHON-LALANDE.Generousandreliableinstyle.

Phélan-SégurSt-Estr★★★90’9596’989900’0102030405’06070809’10’1112TopST-ESTÈPHE;reputationsolidsince1988butunclassified;long,supplestyle.Owningfamilyalsoproprietorofluxuryrestaurants:LesCrayères(Reims)andTaillevent(Paris).

PibranPaur★★969900’01030405’06070809’10’1112SmallpropertyalliedtoPICHON-LONGUEVILLE.ClassywinewithPAUILLACdrive.

Pichon-LonguevillePau(formerlyBarondePichon-Longueville)r★★★★86’88’89’90’9394’9596989900’010203’0405’06070809’10’11’12RevitalizedSecondGrowthwithpowerfulconsistentPAUILLACforlongageing.OwnersAXAInsurance(1987).Newbarrelcellar(underanartificiallake)andvisitorcentrein2008.Secondlabel:LesTourellesdeLongueville(approachable).

Pichon-LonguevilleComtessedeLalande(PichonLalande)Paur★★★★82’8385’86’88’89’90’949596989900010203’0405’06070809’10’1112ROEDERER-owned(2007)SecondGrowthoverlookingLATOUR.Alwaysamongthetopperformers;long-lived,MERLOT-markedwineoffabulousbreed.MoreCABSAUVinrecentyrsasv’ydisreplanted.Former

MONTROSEtechnicaldirectornowmanaging.Newcellars2013.Secondlabel:RésdelaComtesse.DEPEZsamestable.

Pin,LePomr★★★★8586’888990’9495969798’990001’0204’05’06’070809’10’1112TheoriginaloftheB’Xcultmini-crusmadeinacellarnotmuchbiggerthanaGARAGE.Nowanew(2011)modernwinery.Amere500casesof100%MERLOT.Almostasrichasitsdrinkers,butpricesarescary.L’Ifisnew(2011)ST-ÉMILIONstablemate.

Pitray,deB’xr★★98’00’0304050609’10Oncethebest-knowninCASTILLON,nowovershadowedbyleadinglights.Earthy,butvalueandavailable.

PlincePomr★★00’0104050608091011Lighter,simplewinesfromsandysoils.Easy-drinking.

Pointe,LaPomr★★98’9900’01040506070809’10’1112Largeestate.Newownerandinvestment(2007).ANGÉLUSownerconsults.Distinctimprovementfrom2009.Gdvalue.

Pontac-MonplaisirPe-Lér(w)★★00020405’0607080910Propertyinsuburbs.Attractivewhite;supple,decentred.Value.

Pontet-CanetPaur★★★★8889’9094’9596’989900’0102’0304’05’06’070809’10’1112Biodynamicallycertified(2011),family-owned(since1975)PAUILLACFifthGrowth.Horsesworkpartofthev’yd.Radicalimprovementhascausedthepricetosoar.Secondlabel:LesHautsdePontet-Canet.

NewwinemuseumforBordeauxWorkhasstartedona€60millionwineculturalcentreindowntownB’X:theCitédesCivilisationsduVin.It’sduetoopenitsdoorsin2015andhasatargetof400,000visitors/yrtoitsinteractivedisplay,whichexploreswinecultureandcivilization.Visitorscanthengetsomepracticalexperienceatvariouswinebarsandrestaurants.Theshapeofthecentral

buildingisbasedonaswirlingdecanter.Yes,really.

PotensacMédr★★9596989900’01020304’05’070809’10’1112Well-knownpropertyofnorthernMÉDOC.DelonfamilyofLÉOVILLE-LAS-CASES;classshows.Firm,vigorouswinesforlongageing.Secondlabel:ChapelledePotensac.

PougetMargr★★98’00’0102030405’06070809’10’11ObscureFourthGrowthattachedtoBOYD-CANTENAC.Oldvines.Solidratherthanelegant.

PoujeauxMour★★90’94’95’96’989900’01030405060809’10’1112PurchasedbyCLOSFOURTETownerin2007.WithCHASSE-SPLEENthehighpointofMOULIS.DERENONCOURTconsults.Full,robustwinesthatage.Secondlabel:LaSalledePoujeaux.

PremierGrandCruClasséSt-ÉmSeeboxSt-Émilion

classification–2012version.Prieuré-LichineMargr★★★89’90’94’959698’9900’0102

03040506070809’10’1112FourthGrowthownedbynegociant;putonmapbyAlexisLichine.V’ydsv.dispersed.AdvisedbySTÉPHANEDERENONCOURT.FragrantMARGAUXcurrentlyongdform.Secondlabel:ConfidencesduPrieuré-Lichine.Gdwhite,too.

PuygueraudB’xr★★9800’01’0203’05’0608091011LeadingCHofthistinyFRANCS-CÔTESDEBORDEAUXAC.Oak-agedwinesofsurprisingclass.Gd-valueLesCharmes-Godardwhite,sameowner.SpecialCUVÉEGeorgewithMALBEC(35%+)inblend.SamewinemakerasPAVIE-MACQUINandLARCIS-DUCASSE.

In2005ChinahardlyregisteredontheBordelaismap.Nowitistheno.1market.

QuintusSt-Émr★★★11FormerlyTERTREDAUGAY.NowownedbyDillonsofHAUT-BRION,greatimprovementisontheway.Secondlabel:LeDragondeQuintus.

Rabaud-PromisSautwsw★★→★★★959697’989901’0203’0405’060709’1011Family-ownedclassedgrowthatBommes.Discreetbutgenerallyv.gd.

RahoulGravrw★★(r)00’010204050809’10V’ydatPortets;Supple,SÉM-dominatedwhite(04’0507080910).ProgressunderDOURTHEmanagement(since2007).

Ramage-la-BatisseH-Médr★★02030405’070809101150yrsofexistencein2012.Reasonablyconsistent,widelydistributedHAUT-MÉDOC.Ownedbyinsurancecompany.Secondlabel:L’EnclosdeRamage.

Rauzan-GassiesMargr★★★98990001’02030405’06070809’10’1112TheSecondGrowthneighbourofRAUZAN-SÉGLAthathaslonglaggedbehindit;nowcatchingup.Newgeneration

makingstridessince2001(lookat09’10’).Rauzan-SéglaMargr★★★★86’88’89’90’94’95969899

00’01020304’0506070809’10’1112MARGAUXSecondGrowthlongfamousforitsfragrance;ownedbyownersofChanel(seeCANON).Onfineform.“Boston”parcel(8ha)onceownedbyPALMER(1938)incorporatedin2010.Secondlabel:Ségla(value).

Raymond-LafonSautwsw★★★8889’90’9596’979899’01’0203’0405’0607’09’10’11’SAUTERNESestateacquiredbyformerYQUEMmanager(1972);nowrunbyhischildren.Rich,complexwinesthatage.FirstGrowthquality.

RayneVigneauSautwsw★★★8990’959697989901’020305’0709’10’11’LargeclassedgrowthatBommes.SameownerasGRAND-PUY-DUCASSEandMEYNEY.Investmentandimprovement.Secondlabel:MadamedeRayne.

RespideMédevilleGravrw★★(r)020405’0608091011(w)

0204’05’0708091011OneofthebetterGRAVESpropertiesforbothredandwhite.SameownerasGILETTEinSAUTERNES.Drinkredsataround4–6yrs.

ReynonB’xrw★★LeadingCADILLAC-CÔTESDEBORDEAUXestate.Seriousred(04’05’060709’1011).FragrantB’XwhitefromSAUVBL07080910’11’.SeealsoCLOSFLORIDÈNE.OwnedbyDubourdieufamily.

ReyssonH-Médr★★02030405060809’10’11Renovatedestate;mainlyMERLOT;managedbynégociantCVBG-DOURTHE(seeBELGRAVEandLAGARDE).Richandmodernstyle.

Ricaud,deB’x(r)w(dr)sw★★9901’0203’0507091011SubstantialLOUPIACestate;producerofSAUTERNES-like,age-worthywinejustacrosstheriver.Red,too.

RieussecSautwsw★★★★83’8586’88’89’90’9596’97’989901’0203’0405’060709’10’11’WorthyneighbourofYQUEMwithv’ydinFargues,ownedbythe(LAFITE)Rothschilds.

Fabulouslypowerful,opulentwine.Asin1993noRieussecproducedin2012,onlyCarmesdeRieussec,thesecondwine.Drywineis“R”,nowmadeinmodernstyle–withlesscharacter.

RipeauSt-Émr★★9800’010405’0608091011LesserclassedgrowthonsandysoilsnrCHEVALBLANC.Lighterstyle.Moreconsistentsince2004.

Rivière,delaB’xr★★9900’0102030405’060809’1011ThebiggestandmostimpressiveFRONSACproperty,withaWagneriancastleandcellars.Formerlybig,tannicwines;nowmorerefined.Newownerin2003,withconsultantfromLANGUEDOC,ClaudeGros.SpecialCUVÉE:Aria.

Rochemorin,dePe-Lérw★★→★★★(r)01020405060809’10’11(w)05060708091011AnimportantrestorationatMartillacbyAndréLurtonofLALOUVIÈRE:vastestate(three-quartersred).SAUVBL-dominatedwhite.Newstate-of-the-art

wineryin2004.Fairlyconsistentqualityandwidelydistributed.RolValentinSt-Émr★★★00’01’02030405’06070809’

10’11OriginallyGARAGE-styleandsize,nowbigger.Rich,modernbutbalanced.Newowner2010.

RougetPomr★★9698’9900’01’030405’06070809’10’1112Much-improvedestateonnorthernedgeofPOMEROL.SameownerasDOMJACQUESPRIEURinBurgundy.Nowexcellent;rich,unctuouswines.Gd-value.

RoyalSt-ÉmilionSt-ÉmThebrandnameofanimportant,dynamicgrowers’co-op.SeeGALIUS.

St-André-CorbinSt-Émr★★00’01030405080910Family-ownedST-GEORGES-ST-ÉMILIONv’yd.Supple,MERLOT-dominatedwine.Gd-value.

St-GeorgesSt-Émr★★98’00’01030405’06080910Family-ownedpropertyoverlookingST-ÉMILIONfromthehilltothenorth.V’ydrepresents25%ofST-GEORGESACandunchanged

since1891.Gdwinesolddirecttothepublic.Secondlabel:PuySt-Georges.

St-PierreSt-Julr★★★8990’95’96’989900’01’02030405’06070809’10’11Once-understatedFourthGrowthownedbythepresidentofB’Xfootballclub.StylishandconsistentclassicST-JULIEN(since2000).SeeGLORIA.

Sales,dePomr★★98’00’01’040506080910Biggestv’ydofPOMEROLonsandy/gravelsoils,attachedto16th-centuryCH.Lightishwine;neverquitepoetry.Trytopvintages.Secondlabel:ChChantalouette.

SansonnetSt-Émr★★00’0102030405’060809’10’1112PromotedtoGRANDCRUCLASSÉin2012.PlateauestateadjacenttoTROTTEVIEILLE.Ambitiouslyruninmodernstyle(rich,dark,concentrated).

Thereare20estatesintheMédocproducingwhitewine,froma

totalof100ha.

Saransot-DupréListr(w)★★00’01020304050609’10’11Smallpropertywithfirm,fleshywines.LotsofMERLOT.AlsooneofLISTRAC’slittlebandofwhites(60%SÉM).

SénéjacH-Médr(w)★★000102030405’060809’10’11Ownedsince1999bysamefamilyasTALBOT.Well-balancedwines.V’ydrunbiodynamicallybyPONTET-CANETteamsince2009.Towatch.

Serre,laSt-Émr★★9698’9900’0102030405060809’1011Smallclassedgrowthonthelimestoneplateau.Fresh,stylishwineswithplentyoffruit.

Sigalas-RabaudSautwsw★★★868889’90’95’96’97’989901’02030405’07’09’10’11ThesmallerpartoftheformerRabaudestateinBommes;samewinemakingteamasLAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY.V.fragrantandlovely.Top-rankingnow.Second

label:LeLieutenantdeSigalas.SiranMargr★★→★★★9596989900’01020304050607

0809’10’1112OwnedbytheMiailhefamilysince1859;Edouardrunstheshowtoday.NeighbourofDAUZAC.Thewinesagewellandhavemassesofflavour.Secondlabel:SdeSiran.

Smith-Haut-LafittePe-Lér(p)(w)★★★(r)949596989900’01020304’05’06070809’10’1112(w)99’0001020304050607’08’0910’1112Celebratedclassedgrowthwithspa-hotel,regularlyoneofthestarsofPESSAC-LÉOGNAN.Whiteisfull,ripe,sappy;redoaky/generousbutfine.Newcarbon-neutralcellarforsecondlabel(2013):LesHautsdeSmith.AlsoCABSAUV-basedLePetitHautLafittefrom2007.NeighbouringLeThilComteClarysamestablesince2012.

Sociando-MalletH-Médr★★★89’90’949596’98’9900’01’02030405’060709’10’11Asplendid,widelyfollowedestateatSt-Seurin.Independentlymindedownercelebrated40

vintagesin2009.Conservative,big-bonedwinestolaydownforyrs.Secondlabel:DemoiselledeSociando.AlsospecialCUVÉEJeanGautreau.

SoudarsH-Médr★★9800’01030405060910’11SistertoCOUFRANandVERDIGNAN.Relativelytraditionalandregularquality.

WhatdoChxLatour,LePuy,Pape-Clément,Pontet-CanetandSmith-Haut-Lafittehaveincommon?Horsesforvineyardwork.

Sours,deB’xrpw★★ValidreputationforB’Xrosé(DYA).300,000bottlesannually.GdwhiteandimprovingB’xredaswell.

SoutardSt-Émr★★★90’959698’9900’0103040506070809101112Potentiallyexcellentclassedgrowthonthelimestoneplateau.Nowownedbysameinsurancegroupas

LARMANDE.CADET-PIOLAintegratedin2012.Massiveinvestment;newcellarsandvisitorcentre2010.Finerstylesince2007.Secondlabel:JardinsdeSoutard.

SuduirautSautwsw★★★★858688’89’90’959697’9899’01’0203’0405’0607’09’10’11’Oneofthebestclassed-growthSAUTERNES:renovatedCHandgardensbyLeNôtre.OwnerAXAInsurancehasachievedgreaterconsistencyandlusciousquality.SeePICHON-LONGUEVILLE.Drywine“S”v.promising.Newfresher,fruitierSauternesLesLionsdeSuduirautfrom2009.

Tailhas,duPomr★★98’9900010405’0809’1011Modestfamily-ownedpropertyonsandy-gravelsoilsnrFIGEAC.Agreeable,earlierdrinking.

TailleferPomr★★9698’00’01’02030405’060809’1011V’ydontheedgeofPOMEROL.AstutelymanagedbyCatherineMoueix.Lesspowerthantopestatesbutgentlyharmonious.Gd

value.TalbotSt-Julr(w)★★★90949596’98’9900’0102030405’

08’09’10’1112SizeableFourthGrowth,formanyyrssistertoGRUAUD-LAROSE.Winesimilarlyattractive:rich,consummatelycharming,reliable(thoughwobblyin06and07).DERENONCOURTconsults(from2008).Secondlabel:ConnétabledeTalbot.Excellentwhitetoage5/6yrs:CaillouBlanc.SÉNÉJACinsamefamilyownership.

Tertre,duMargr★★★9596’98’9900’010304’05’060809’10’1112FifthGrowthisolatedsouthofMARGAUX.Historyofundervaluedfragrant(20%CABFR)andfruitywines.Since1997,sameownerasCHGISCOURS.FormerLATOURwinemaker.Newtechniquesandmassiveinvestmenthaveproducedaconcentrated,structuredwine,reallyhummingfrom03.

TertreDaugaySt-Émr★★★96989900’010405060709’10Classedgrowthontheplateau.BoughtbyDillonfamilyof

HAUT-BRIONin2011andrenamedCHQUINTUS.Improvementfrom2000;nowlikelytoacceleratefurther.Pricealreadyup.Towatch.

Tertre-RôteboeufSt-Émr★★★★88’89’90’939495969798’9900’010203’0405’06’070809’10’1112Acultstarmakingconcentrated,dramatic,largelyMERLOTwinesince1983.Frighteningprices.AlsoCÔTESDEBOURGproperty,RocdeCambesofST-ÉMILIONclassed-growthquality.

ThieuleyB’xrpw★★E-2-Msupplierofconsistent-qualityACB’X(rw);fruityCLAIRET;oak-agedCUVÉEFrancisCourselle(rw).AlsoownsCLOSSte-AnneinCADILLAC-CÔTESDEBORDEAUX.

Tour-Blanche,laSaut(r)wsw★★★858688’89’90’959697’989901’0203’0405’060709’10’11’FirstGrowthSAUTERNES.Alsoawinemakingschool.Rich,powerfulwines.Long-timewinemaker(37vintages)retiredin2012.Secondlabel:LesCharmillesdeTour-Blanche.

Tour-Carnet,LaH-Médr★★96989900’0102030405’060809’10’1112FourthGrowthwithmedievalmoatedfortress,ownedbyBernardMagrez(seeFOMBRAUGE,PAPE-CLÉMENT).Investmentfrom2000hasproducedricherwinesinmoremodernstyle.Secondlabel:LesDouvesdeCHLaTourCarnet.AlsoGARAGEServitudeVolontaireduTourCarnet.

WhyBordeaux?PeopleaskwhetherB’Xstilljustifiesitsownseparatesectionofthisinternationalguide.Theanswer:itremainsthemotorofthefinewineworld,byfaritsbiggestproducer,stimulatingdebate,investment,andcollectorsworldwide.Besides,therearefewbetterdrinks.

Tour-de-By,LaMédr★★000102030405’060809101112

Large(109ha)family-runestateinnorthernMÉDOC.500,000bottlesyearlyofsturdybutreliablewineswithafruitynote.Usuallygd-value.

TourdeMons,laMargr★★98’990001020405’060809’1011MARGAUXcruownedbyabank.Alongdullpatchtheninvestmentandimprovementinthenewmillennium.

Tour-du-Haut-MoulinH-Médr★★9800’02030405’0608091011Family-ownedestateinCussac;intense,consistent,winestomature.

Tour-du-Pas-St-GeorgesSt-Émr★★9900’01030405’060809’1011ST-GEORGES-ST-ÉMILIONestateownedbyPascalDelbeck(ex-BELAIR-MONANGE).Recentinvestment.

TourduPin,LaSt-Émr★★9800’010405060809’10’11FormerlyLaTourduPinFigeac-MoueixbutboughtandrenamedbyCHEVALBLANCin2006.Previouslyclassifiedbutclassificationnotrequestedin2012.Steadyimprovementbut

limitedvolumenow.NottobeconfusedwiththeLaTourduPinFigeac(Giraud-Bélivier),whichwasdemotedtoGRANDCRUin2006andnotpromotedin2012.Bringonthelawyers….

TourFigeac,LaSt-Émr★★96’98’9900’01’020405’06070809’10’11ClassedgrowthbetweenFIGEACandPOMEROL.Biodynamicmethods(DERENONCOURTandhiswifeconsult).Full,fleshyandharmonious.

TourHaut-Brion,LaPe-Lér★★★9596’98’9900’01020304’05’RIPfrom2005forthisclassedgrowth.Thev’ydhasnowbeenintegratedintothatofLAMISSION-HAUT-BRION.Sameowner.

TourHaut-CaussanMédr★★0102030405’060809’10’11Well-runpropertyatBlaignan.Reliable.Gd-value.InterestsinCORBIÈRESaswell.

TournefeuilleB’xr★★00’01’02030405’0607080910’11ReliableLALANDEDEPOMEROLproperty.30%CABFRaddsspice.

CHXLécouyer(POMEROL)andLaRévérance(ST-ÉMILION)samestable.

Tour-St-BonnetMédr★★00’02030405060809’1011Consistentlywell-madeamplenorthernMÉDOCfromSt-Christoly.Gdvalue.

Tronquoy-LalandeSt-Estr★★9800’0203040506070809’10’11SameownersasMONTROSEfrom2006.LotsofMERLOTandPETITVERDOT.Definiteprogress.Secondlabel:TronquoydeSte-Anne.Towatch.

Troplong-MondotSt-Émr★★★89’90’94’9596’98’9900’01’02030405’06070809’101112FirstGrowthonahighpointofthelimestoneplateaunrawatertower.Winesofpoweranddepthwithincreasingelegance.On-siterestaurant(LesBellesPerdrix).Secondlabel:Mondot.

TrotanoyPomr★★★★8889’90’9394959698’00’01020304’05’06070809’10’11PartoftheJ-PMOUEIXstablesince

1953.Fabulousinthe60sand70s;backontopformfrom89.Secondlabel:L’EspérancedeTrotanoy(from2009;won’tbemadeeveryyear).

TrottevieilleSt-Émr★★★89’90949596989900’0103’0405’06070809’10’1112IsolatedFirstGrowthonthelimestoneplateau.OwnershaveBORIE-MANOUXconnection.Muchimprovedsince2000.Limitedbottlingofold,ungraftedCABFR.FormerGRANDCRUCLASSÉCHBergatintegratedin2012.Secondlabel:LaVieilleDamedeTrotteVieille.

ValandraudSt-Émr★★★★939495’96989900’01’02030405’06070809’10’1112FromGARAGEinstigatorin1991toPREMIERGRANDCRUCLASSÉin2012.Nowofficially8halocatedatSt-Etienne-de-Lisse.Originallysuper-concentrated;since1998greatercomplexity.VirginiedeValandraudanotherselection.WhiteBlancdeValandraudfrom2003.

VerdignanH-Médr★★00’01020304050608091011

Substantialestate;sistertoCOUFRANandSOUDARS.MoreCABSAUVthanCoufran.Gd-valuewinewithageingpotential.

VieilleCure,LaB’xr★★00’01’02030405’060809’10’11LeadingFRONSACestate;USowned.SamemanagementasMOULIN-HAUT-LAROQUE.Gd-value.

Vieux-Château-CertanPomr★★★★83’8586’88’8990’9495’96’98’9900’010204’05’06070809’10’11’12TraditionallyratedclosetoPETRUSinquality,buttotallydifferentinstyle(30%CABFRand10%CABSAUV);elegance,harmony,evenbeauty.Oldvines(average40–50yrs).2010utterlysuperb.

VieuxChâteauSt-AndréSt-Émr★★0102030405060809’1011Smallv’ydinMONTAGNE-ST-ÉMILIONownedbyformerwinemakerofPETRUS.Regularhighquality.

Villegeorge,deH-Médr★★98’00’02030405060809’1011OwnedbyMarie-LaureLurton,sisterofHenri.ofBRANE-

CANTENAC.ClassicMÉDOCstyle.SisterCHXDuplessisinMOULISandLaTourdeBessaninMARGAUX.

VrayCroixdeGayPomr★★90959698’00’0405’060809’10’11Tinyv’ydinthebestpartofPOMEROL.Improvementssince2005;impressive2010.SistertoCHSiauracinLalande-de-Pomerol.DERENONCOURTconsults.

Yon-FigeacSt-Émr★★9800’02030405060910’11MERLOT-basedGRANDCRUCLASSÉatthefootoftheslope;lighter,supplestyle.Newownerfrom2005;Dubourdieuconsults;improvingsince.

YquemSautwsw(dr)★★★★7980’81’83’8586’88’89’90’939495’9697’9899’0001’0203’0405’06’07’0809’10’11’Thekingofsweetwines.Strong,intense,luscious;kept3yrsinbarrel.Mostvintagesimprovefor15yrs+,somelive100yrs+intranscendentsplendour.Subtlechangessince2000underLVMHownership:morefreshness,lesstimeinbarrel.Asin

1952,1972and1992noYquemmadein2012;qualitycompromised.Alsomakesdry“Y”(pronounced“ygrec”).

ExploringBordeauxWanttoexploretheB’Xwineregiononyourownbutneedahelpinghand?TheBordeauxWineCouncil(CIVB)hasawine-tourismapp:downloaditontoyoursmartphoneortabletandgetCHX,accommodation,restaurants,etc.7,500producersarereferencedontheapp.You’rereadytogo.

Italy

NotlongagotheywerebeinghailedasthesalvationofItalianfinewine.TodaytheSuperTuscansandotherinternationalstylewinesarefallingawayintohistory.Admittedlytheseoftenoveroaked,over-concentratedandoverpricedvinoustitans,usuallycontainingsignificantquantitiesofnon-Italiangrapes,neverdidachieveofficialstatus,butfortwoorthreedecadestheyflashedacrosstheItalianwine-skylikecomets.

Inthe21stcenturyItalianshavefinallybeguntounderstandthattheirlong-terminterestresidesinmakingwhattheyalonecanproduce,whattheworldcannotimitate.Inthelandofimitation,inthisexplodingwineworldofours,thereisalways(theyarecomingtorealize)someonewhocandoitbetterorcheaper.Hencetheincreasingfocusontraditionalgrapes,techniquesandstyles,onwineslikeBrunellodiMontalcinoandChiantiClassicoinTuscany,EtnainSicily,ValtellinainLombardy,evenLambruscoinEmilia-

Romagnathatreflectthelandandthepeoplewhohavebeenmakingthemforcenturies,whetherornotunderthemodernname.

Let’sgivetheSuperTuscanstheirdue–theyservedanimportanttransitionalpurpose,bridgingthegapbetweenthedeficientorfaultywinesofpost-WorldWarTwoandtheincreasinglyindividualcrusofourtime.Indeed,averyfewofthemstillthrive.ButtheycannolongerbeseenasthefoundationofItalianfinewine.

Recentvintages

Amarone,Veneto&Friuli2012 ProlongedheatanddroughtintoSeptemberhitbothquantity

andquality.Grapeswerehealthy,ifabitunbalanced.Amaroneshouldbegood.

2011 “Bestyearever”forAmarone:perfectlyhealthygrapes;soil,well-wateredinspring,passedthroughtheAugustheatwavewithoutproblem.Whitesbalancedandconcentrated.Someredsverytannicwithhighalcohol.

2010Coolyear,goodforlighterwines,thoughlateraincausedproblemsforgrapesinappassimento.Startdrinkingsoon.

2009 Idealdryingconditionsforpassito:classicwines.GoodforProsecco,PinotGrandotherwhitesintheeast.DrinkAmaronefrom2015.

2008Classicwinesofhighquality.Drinkfrom2016.2007 Someexcellentwines;selectionneeded.2006Outstanding;moreAmaronemadethaneverbefore.Drink

from2012.2005Grape-dryingtechnologysavedAmaroneandRecioto.Less

successfulforSoaveandwhites.Drinkup.

Campania&Basilicata2012 Evendryerandhotterthan2011,butsouthernersareusedto

it.SeptemberrainssavedthewhitesandthelongIndiansummerwillproducesomeoutstandingAglianicos.

2011Verydryandveryhot.Winesconcentratedandrich;highalcoholandtannininreds.Whitesbetterbalanced.

2010Whiteslightishwithgoodaromas;redsgoodaverage.2009Ripe,healthy,aromaticwhites,andredswithsubstanceand

concentration.KeepclassicAglianico/Taurasitodrinkfrom

2014.2008ClassicyearforAglianico;good,too,forwhites.Drinkfrom

2013.2007Goodtoexcellentquality.Drinkfrom2013.2006Rainandproblemsofrotinlower-lyingzones,muchsunand

alonggrowingseasoninhighervineyards.Selectionneeded.2005Aglianicohadweight,complexityandcharacter–perhapsthe

finestwinesofallItalyin2005.Drinkfrom2012.

Marches&Abruzzo2012AsinallItaly,athree-stageseasonstartingcoolandwet,

becomingbakinglyhotanddry,resolvingintowarmdaysandcoolnightsatvintagetime.Later-pickedvarietiesfaredbest.

2011 Fruitveryhealthybutinsomecasesoverconcentrated,alcoholicandtannic(reds).Bestshouldagewell.

2010Weatherpeaksandtroughsgoodforaromas,butalsorot,with

vintagerain.Adifficultyearbutsomegoodresults.Drinkfrom2013.

2009Goodtoverygoodquality,especiallywhites.Drinkingnow(Montepulcianod’Abruzzo/Conero).

2008 Someexcellentwines.Drinkfromnowforfiveyears.2007 Sometop-qualityreds.Drinkingnow.2006Betterthan2004and2005,butnotasgoodas2003.Drinkor

miss.2005Good,ripe,structuredwinesforthosewhowaitedtopick.

Drinknowforthreeyears.

Piedmont2012Acool,wetspringgavewaytoarainless,scorchingsummer.

Thenidealweatherthroughthevintage.Qualitygoodtoverygood,volumeverylow.

2011UnusuallyhotfromAugusttoendofvintage,grapeshealthy

buttendingtohighalcoholwithdangerofoverconcentration.Probablygoodaveragequality.

2010Qualitypatchy,butpatientgrowersmadeverygoodwines.Choosewithcare.

2009Qualitygoodtoverygood,especiallyforNebbiolo.DrinkBarolo/Barbarescofrom2014fortenyears+.

2008 SomegreatBarberas;Nebbiolosgood,balanced,notspectacular.Drinkfor10years.

2007GoodtoexcellentBarolo,Barbaresco,Barbera.Someclassicwines.Drinkfrom2013for10years+.

2006 ExcellentNebbioloandBarbera.Thelaying-downvintageofthedecade.Drinkfrom2014for20years.

2005UnevenforBarberaandNebbiolo,withsomegoodwines.Drinknowfor5years+.

Olderfinevintages:0401009998979695908988.Vintagestokeep:019996.Vintagestodrinkup:0300979088

Tuscany2012Droughtandprotractedheatreducedvolume,butclassic

winesweresavedbyearlySeptemberrainsandcouldturnoutverywell.

2011 Somecharminglyfruityifsomewhatalcoholicclassicreds.Whitesabitunbalanced.

2010 Patchy.Brunelloverysuccessful.2009Qualityverygoodatleast.DrinkChianti/Brunellofrom

2014–16.2008Mixedresultswithpointsofexcellence;notnecessarilyfor

longkeeping.Drinkfromnowforfiveyears.2007High-qualitycrop.Drinkfrom2013–15for10years.2006 Probablygreatestoflast20vintages.Drinkfromnowfor20

years.2005 Sangioveseateveryqualitylevelimaginable,fromfirst-rate

todiluted.Selectionneeded.

Olderfinevintages:040199979590.Vintagestokeep:0199.Vintagestodrinkup:0300979590

Whatdotheinitialsmean?DenominazionediOrigineControllata(DOC)ControlledDenominationofOrigin,cf.ACinFrance.DenominazionediOrigineControllataeGarantita(DOCG)“G”=“Guaranteed”.Italy’shighestqualitydesignation.IndicazioneGeograficaTipica(IGT)“GeographicIndicationofType”.BroaderandmorevaguethanDOC,cf.VindePaysinFrance.DenominazionediOrigineProtetta/IndicazioneGeograficaProtetta(DOP/IGP)“P”=“Protected”.TheEUseemstowantthesedesignationstotakeoverfromDOC(G)/IGTinthelongterm,butfornowyou’remuchmorelikelytoencounterDOC/GorIGT.

Occasionallyboth.

AglianicodelVultureBasDOC(G)rdr★→★★★01’04’06’07080910(11)(12)DOCwithmin1yrageing,DOCGSUPERIOREafter2yrs,DOCGSuperioreRISERVAafter5yrs.AvoidtheSPUMANTE.RegulatoryconfusionsurroundsthispotentiallynobleredfromtheancientAGLIANICOgrapeonvolcanicMonteVulture.Best:Basilisco,Bisceglia,CantinedelNotaio,ElenaFucci,Macarico,MadonnadelleGrazie,PATERNOSTER,TerredegliSvevi.

AgricoltoridelChiantiGeograficoTus★★50-yr-oldco-op:some200quality-mindedgrowersinsouthernCHIANTICLASSICO.Impressiverange,inclChiantiClassicoContessadiRaddaandChiantiClassicoRISERVAMontegiachi;ever-drinkablebasicChiantiClassico.

AlbaPieMajorwinecityofPIEDMONT,southeastofTurininLANGHEhills;truffles,chocolates,andPiedmont’s,ifnotItaly’s,mostprestigiouswines:BAROLO,BARBARESCO,NEBBIOLOD’ALBA,LANGHE,ROERO,BARBERAd’Alba,DOGLIANI(DOLCETTO).

AlbanadiRomagnaE-RDOCGwdrsws/sw(sp)★→★★★DYA,akaRomagnaAlbana.Italy’sfirstwhiteDOCG,justifiablyforsweetPASSITO,butdryisunremarkable.Bertinoroisthecommunewiththebestproducers,inclRaffaellaAlessandraBissoni,Celli,MadoniaGiovannaandFattoriaParadiso.ZERBINA’sScaccoMattoisperhapsthebestsweetversion.

AlberelloAkabush-trainedorhead-trainedvines,thetraditionalmethodofpruningnowreturninginvariousquality-consciouspartsofItaly.Mostofthebestandoldestvy’dsoftrendyETNA,forexample,aretrainedtoalberello.

AllegriniVen★★★World-famousforVALPOLICELLA;outstandingsingle-v’ydIGTwines(LaGrola,Palazzodella

Torre,LaPoja),AMARONE,RECIOTO.AlsojointownerofPOGGIOalTesoroinBOLGHERIandPoggioSanPoloinMONTALCINO,TUSCANY(since2009).

Altare,ElioPie★★★LeadingexponentofmodernNEBBIOLO(BAROLO)andBARBERA:briefmacerationinroto-fermenters,ageinginbarriques.LookforBaroloCerrettafromSerralungaandLaMorracrusBaroloArborinaandBaroloBrunate;alsoArborina(NEBBIOLO),Larigi(BARBERA),LANGHERossoLaVilla.

AltoAdigeT-AADOCrpwdrswsp★★→★★★Once-Austrian,largelyGerman-speakingprovinceofBolzano,aliasSÜDTIROL,Phenomenalsuccesswithmtn-freshwhites;lesssowithreds,exceptfortheoddoutstandingPINOTNornativeLAGREIN.Excellentco-opsandmanyqualityprivatecompanies.

Ama,CastellodiTus★★★FamedCHIANTICLASSICOestateofGaiole.LaCasucciaandBellavistaaretopsingle-v’ydwines.SeekMERLOTL’ApparitaandSANGIOVESE/PINOTNblendIl

Chiuso.AmaronedellaValpolicellaVenDOCGr★★→★★★★0001

03’0406’070809(10)(11’)Intense,strongredfromair-driedVALPOLICELLAgrapes;oneofItaly’strueclassics,recentlyrecognizedasDOCG,withappendage“CLASSICO”iffromhistoriczone.RelativelydryversionoftheancientRECIOTODELLAVALPOLICELLA.(Forproducersseebox,Valpolicella:thebest.)Oldervintagesarerare;beyond20yrstheytendtodryout.

TentopBarberasMostofthebestBARBERASarefromthePIEDMONTESEDOCSofBarberad’ASTIandBarberad’ALBA,butthereareoccasionalexamplesofexcellencefromelsewhere.Barberad’AlbaBOGLIETTI(VignadeiRomani);CLERICO(Trevigne);PRUNOTTO(PianRomualdo);Voerzio,Gianni

(CiabotdellaLuna);VOERZIO,ROBERTO(Pozzodell’Annunziata).Barberad’AstiBRAIDA(Briccodell’Uccellone);COPPO(Pomorosso);Perrone(Mongovone);CSVinchioVaglio(VIGNEVecchie).LangheALTARE(Larigi).

TentopBarbarescosHerearetenoutstandingexamplesofBARBARESCO,worthhuntingdown:CantinadelPino(Ovello);CastellodiNeive(RISERVASantoStefano);CastellodiVerduno(Rabajà);GAJA(Barbaresco);BRUNOGIACOSA(AsiliRISERVA);MarchesidiGresy(CampGros);Paitin(VecchieVigne);PRODUTTORIDELBARBARESCO(Ovello);RoccaAlbino(BrichRonchi);BRUNOROCCA(Rabajà).

Antinori,MarchesiL&PTus★★→★★★★V.influentialFlorentinehouseownedbyAntinorifamily,ledbyPiero,oneofItalianwine’spostwarheroes,andhisthreedaughters.FamousforCHIANTICLASSICO(TenuteMarcheseAntinoriandBadiaaPassignano),Umbrian(CastellodellaSala),PIEDMONT(PRUNOTTO)wines.Insatiableinnovators:TIGNANELLOandSOLAIAareamongthefewsuccessfulSUPERTUSCANSremaining.NowalsoestatesinTuscanMAREMMA(FattoriaAldobrandesca),MONTEPULCIANO(LaBraccesca),MONTALCINO(PiandelleVigne),BOLGHERIforGuadoalTasso,FRANCIACORTAforsparkling(Montenisa)andAPULIA(Tormaresca).

Apulia/PugliaThe360km“heel”oftheItalianboot.Generallygd-value,easy-drinkingwines(mainlyred)fromvariousgrapeslikeNEGROAMARO,PRIMITIVOandUvadiTroia.MostinterestingwinesarefromSALENTOpeninsula,inclDOCsBRINDISI,COPERTINOandSALICESALENTINO.

ArgianoTusAvant-gardeBRUNELLOestatewhereHansVinding-DiersalsomakesCAB/MERLOT/SYRAHblendSolengoandsmooth100%SANGIOVESESuolo.

Argiano,CastellodiTusAkaSesti.AstronomerGiuseppeMariaSestimakesclassybiodynamicBRUNELLOandBordeaux-inspiredTerradiSiena.Nottobeconfusedwithneighbourcalledsimply“Argiano”.

Argiolas,AntonioSar★★→★★★TopSardinianproducerusingnativegrapes.OutstandingcrusTurriga(★★★),AntonioArgiolas,IselisRossoandIselisBiancoaswellaswell-craftedstandards.

Ar.Pe.Pe.Lom★★→★★★ThePelizzatiPeregofamily,from10hainthisbreathtakingmtncountry,producearound50,000bottlesofVALTELLINAofvariousstylesinahighlytraditionalmode.TopwinesareSassellaRiservaRocceRosse,SassellaRiservaStellaReticaandInfernoFiammeAntiche.

AstiPieDOCGwswsp★→★★★NVPiedmonteseMUSCATsparkler,knowninpastasAstiSPUMANTE.Lowpricestrumphighquality,makingDOCGstatusquestionable.SeeMOSCATOD’ASTI,BARBERA.Raretopproducers:BERA,CascinaFonda,CAUDRINA,VignaiolidiSantoStefano.

Aziendaagricola/agrariaAnestate(largeorsmall)makingwinefromowngrapes.

AziendaMonaciApr★★→★★★EstateofSeverinoGarofano,leadingoenologistinSALENTO.CharacterfulNEGROAMARO(Eloquenzia,ICensi),superblate-pickedLeBraci,alsoUvadiTroia(SinePari)andAGLIANICO(SineDie).

BadiaaColtibuonoTus★★→★★★HistoricCHIANTICLASSICOestateismakingacomebackafteryrsindoldrums.Topwineis100%SANGIOVESEbarrique-agedSUPERTUSCAN“Sangioveto”.

Banfi(CastelloorVilla)Tus★→★★★MONTALCINOCANTINAofmajorUSimporterofItalianwine.Hugeplantingsonlower-

lyingsouthernslopesofMontalcino,inclin-house-developedclonesofSANGIOVESE;alsoCABSAUV,MERLOT,SYRAH,PINOTN,CHARD,SAUVBL,PINOTGR.SUPERTUSCANFrench-grapeblendslikeCumLaudeandSummustendtoworkbetterthansomewhatoverextractedBRUNELLOs.

BarbarescoPieDOCGr★★→★★★★9799010406’07080910(11)(12)ThetwinpeaktoBAROLO,also100%NEBBIOLO.Similarcomplexaromasandflavour;lesspower,moreelegance.Minimum2yrsageing,1inwood;at4yrsbecomesRISERVA.(Forbestproducersseeboxabove.)

BardolinoVenDOC(G)rp★→★★DYALight,fresh,summeryredfromItaly’slargestlake,GARDA.BardolinoSuperioreDOCGhasmuchloweryieldthanBardolinoDOC.Thepale-pinkCHIARETTOisoneofItaly’sbestrosés.Gdproducers:Cavalchina,Costadoro,GuerrieriRizzardi,LeFraghe,ZENATO,Zeni.

BaroloPieDOCGr★★★→★★★★9596’979899’01’04’0506’07’0809’(10)(11)(12)Italy’sgreatestred,100%NEBBIOLO,fromthevillageofthenamesouthofALBAoranyoftenothers(orpartsthereof).Thebestcombinepowerandelegance,crisptanninsandfloralscent.Mustbe3yrsoldbeforerelease(5yrsforRISERVA),ofwhich2yrsinwood.(Fortopproducersseeboxbelow.)Dividedbetweentraditionalists(longmaceration,largeoakbarrels)andmodernists(shortermaceration,oftenbarriques).

TentopBarolosWhomakesthebestBAROLO?Thesetengrowers!AllwinesfromvinesinthecentralcommunesofBarolo,CastiglioneFalletto,Monforted’AlbaandSerralunga:Cavallotto(BriccoBoschisVignaSanGiuseppe);ALDOCONTERNO(Granbussia);GIACOMOCONTERNO(Monfortino);

BartoloMASCARELLO(Barolo);GiuseppeMASCARELLO(Monprivato);Massolino(VignaRionda);GiuseppeRinaldi(Brunate-LeCoste);SANDRONE(CannubiBoschis);PAOLOSCAVINO(BricdëlFiasc);VIETTI(Lazzarito).

BeatoBartolomeodaBreganze★★Well-runco-opinhillsofVenetowithoneofthelargestplantingsofgenuinePINOTGRIGIO.Alsostill,sparklingandsweet(TORCOLATO)winesfromnativeVespaiologrape.

BellavistaLom★★★FRANCIACORTAestatewithconvincingChampagne-stylewines(GranCuvéeFranciacortaistop).AlsoExtraBrutVittorioMorettiandSatèn(acrémant-stylesparkling).

Bera,WalterPie★★→★★★Smallestatefortop-qualityMOSCATO(Moscatod’Asti,ASTI),alsofinereds(BARBERAd’Asti,

BARBARESCO,LANGHENEBBIOLO).Berlucchi,GuidoLom★★Italy’sbiggestproducerofsparkling

METODOCLASSICO.BertaniVen★★→★★★Long-establishedproducerof

VALPOLICELLA;200hainvariouspartsofVeronaprovince;twomillionbottles/annum.BoastsalibraryofeveryAMARONEvintagesince1959.

BiancodiCustozaorCustozaVenDOCw(sp)★→★★DYAFreshuncomplicatedwhitefromLakeGARDA,madefromGARGANEGAandCortese.Gdexamlesincl:Cavalchina,LeTende,LeVignediSanPietro,Montresor,Zeni.

BifernoMolDOCrpw★→★★(r)060708091011(12)GdtointerestingwinesfromeasilyforgottenregionofMolise,sandwichedbetweenAbruzzoandAPULIA.RedbasedonMONTEPULCIANO,whiteonTREBBIANO.DIMAJONORANTE(Ramitello)andBorgodiColloredo(Gironia)areworthwhile.

Biondi-SantiTus★★★★OctogenarianFrancoBiondi-SanticontinuestomakeBRUNELLODIMONTALCINOathisGreppoestateinahighlytraditionalmanner,asdidhisfather,Tancredi,andhisgrandfather,Ferruccio,aiminginbestyrsatwinestolastdecades.

BisolVenTopbrandofPROSECCO.BocaPieSeeGATTINARA.BoccadigabbiaMar★★TwinMarchespropertiesofElvidio

AlessandrimakecharacterfulSANGIOVESE,morepolishedCABSAUV.AkronteisaCabofgreaterfamethansubstance.WhitesinclGarbì,aCHARD,SAUVandVERDICCHIOblend.

Boglietti,EnzoPie★★★DynamicyoungproduceratLaMorra,BAROLO.Topmodern-style(Arione,CaseNere);outstandingBARBERAd’ALBA(VignadeiRomani,Roscaleto).

BolgheriTusDOCrpw(sw)★★→★★★★ArtywalledvillageonTUSCANY’sTyrrheniancoastgivingitsnametoastylishand

expensivegroupofSUPERTUSCANSmainlybasedonFrenchvarieties.Bignames:SASSICAIA(originalinspirerofthecult),ANTINORI(atGuadoalTasso),FRESCOBALDI(atORNELLAIA),GAJA(atCA’MARCANDA),ALLEGRINI(atPOGGIOalTesoro),Folonari(atCampoalMare),plustheoddlocalinLEMACCHIOLEandMICHELESATTA.ManyofthebestproducersarefollowingSassicaia’sleadanddumpingIGTstatusforBOLGHERIDOC.

BollaVen★★HistoricVeronafirmforSOAVE,VALPOLICELLA,AMARONE,RECIOTODELLAVALPOLICELLA,RECIOTODISOAVE.TodayownedbypowerfulGRUPPOITALIANOVINI.

BorgodelTiglioF-VG★★★→★★★★NicolaManferrariisoneofItaly’stopwhitewinemakers.HisCOLLIOFRIULANORoncodellaChiesaandStudiodiBiancoareespeciallyimpressive.

Boscarelli,PoderiTus★★★Smallestatewithv.gdVINONOBILEDIMONTEPULCIANONociodeiBoscarelliandRISERVA.

BotteLargebarrel,anythingfrom6–250hl,usuallybetween20–50,traditionallyofSlavonianbutincreasinglyofFrenchoak.Totraditionalists,theidealvesselforageingwinesinwhichanexcessofoakaromasisundesirable.

Brachettod’Acqui/AcquiPieDOCGrsw(sp)★★DYA.SweetsparklingredwithenticingMUSCATscent.ElevatedDOCGstatusdisputedbysome.

BraidaPie★★★ThelateGiacomoBologna’sestate,nowwell-runbyhischildrenGiuseppeandRaffaella.TopBARBERAd’ASTI(Briccodell’Uccellone,BriccodellaBigotta,AiSuma).

BramaterraPieSeeGATTINARA.BreganzeVenDOCrwsp★→★★★(w)DYA(r)06070809

10(11)MajorproductionareaforPINOTGR,alsogdVespaiolo(whitestillandsparking,andstickyTORCOLATO);PINOTNandCAB.MainproducersMACULANandBEATOBARTOLOMEO.

BrindisiApDOCrp★★(r)0607080910(11)(12)(p)DYA.

SmoothNEGROAMARO-basedredwithMONTEPULCIANO,espfromVALLONE,DuePalme,Rubino.ROSATOcanbeamongItaly’sbest.

Brolio,CastellodiTus★★→★★★Historicestate,CHIANTICLASSICO’slargest,nowthrivingagainunderRICASOLIfamilyafterforeign-manageddecline.V.gdChiantiClassicoandIGTCasalferro.

Brunelli,GianniTus★★★Small-scaleproducerofelegant,refinedBRUNELLODIMONTALCINO.NottobeconfusedwithothersinMONTALCINOcalledBrunelli.NowrunbyGianni’swidow,Laura.

BrunellodiMontalcinoTusDOCGr★★★→★★★★90’959799’0001’04’0506’0708(09)(10’)(11)TopwineofTuscany,densebutelegantwithscentandstructure,potentiallyv.long-lived.Min4yrsageing,after5yrsRISERVA.TherehavebeenmovestoallowsmallquantitiesofFrenchgrapesinthis

supposedly100%varietal(SANGIOVESE),andthoughthesehavebeenfoughtoff,vigilanceisneeded.SeealsoROSSODIMONTALCINO.

Bucci★★★Quasi-BurgundianVERDICCHIOs,slowtomaturebutcomplexwithage.ComparedwithmostVerdicchios,RISERVAVillaBucciisonanotherplanet.RedPongelliislessexciting.

Burlotto,CommendatoreGBPie★★★Beautifullycraftedanddefinedwines,espBAROLOCannubiandMonvigliero,thelatter’sgrapesbeingcrushedbyfoot.

Bussola,TommasoVen★★★★LeadingproducerofAMARONE,RECIOTOandRIPASSOinVALPOLICELLA.ExcellentAmaroneVignetoAltoandReciotoTB.

Ca’deiFratiLom★★★ThebestproducerofDOCLUGANA,alsov.gddrywhiteblendIGTPratto,sweetTreFilerandredIGTRonchedone.

Ca’delBoscoLom★★★★No1FRANCIACORTAestateownedby

giantPINOTGRproducerSantaMargherita,butstillrunbyfounderMaurizioZanella.Outstandingmetodo-classicofizz,espAnnamariaClementi(Italy’sDomPérignon)andDosageZero;alsoexcellentBordeaux-styleredMaurizioZanella,burgundy-stylePINOTNPineroandCHARD.

CaiarossaTus★★★Internationalproject.DutchownerJelgersma(ChâteauGiscours;seeBordeaux)andFrenchwinemakerwithAustraliantrainingmakingv.classyreds(Pergolaia,Caiarossa)plusv.tastyCaiarossaBianco.RiparbellainnorthernMAREMMA,highupnrthesea,attractsseriouswinemakers.

Caluso/ErbalucediCalusoDOCGw★★DYA.Bright,minerallywhitefromErbalucegrapeinnorthernPIEDMONT.Best:Orsolani,espLaRustia.

Ca’MarcandaTus★★★ABOLGHERIestatecreatedbyGAJA(since1996).Therearethreewinesinorderofprice(lowtohigh):Promis,MagariandCa’Marcanda.Grapesmainly

international.CampaniaOneofthemostdynamicItalianwineregionstoday(as

inRomantimes).Characterfulnativegrapes–FALANGHINA,FIANO,GRECO,CodadiVolpe(w),AGLIANICO,Piedirosso(r)–volcanicsoilsandcool,highv’ydsadduptogdpotential,beingprogressivelyrealized.ClassicDOCGsincludeFIANOd’Avellino,GRECODITUFOandTAURASI,withnewerareasemerging;eg.SannioandBenevento.Gdproducers:Caggiano,CantinadelTaburno,Caputo,CollidiLapio,D’Ambra,DeAngelis,BenitoFerrara,FeudidiSanGregorio,GALARDI,LAGUARDIENSE,Mastroberardino,Molettieri,MONTEVETRANO,Mustilli,LuigiTecce,TerredoradiPaolo,TrabuccoandVILLAMATILDE.

CanalicchiodiSopraTus★★★Dynamicterroir-consciousRipacciolifamilyproducefromtwov’ydssites,oneonMontosolislopes,beautifullybalanced,complexyetdrinkableBRUNELLOandROSSODIMONTALCINO.

CantinaAcellar,wineryorevenawinebar.Caparra&SicilianiCal★→★★Co-opinCalabria’sbest-known

zone,CIRÒ.200ha+ofCLASSICOv’yds,50yrs’experience.DrinkC&Swines,CiròRosso,BiancoandROSATO,togetatasteofwhattheywerelikeintheolddays–defective,perhaps,butwithsoul.

ItalynowhasaclampdownonthesaleofwinebottlesbearingimagesofHitler,Mussolini,Stalinand–thePope.

Capezzana,TenutadiTus★★★NobleTuscanfamilyestatewestofFlorence,untilrecentlyheadedbyTuscanwinelegendCountUgoContiniBonacossi,todayrunbyhischildren.GdBarcoRealeDOC,excellentCARMIGNANO(VilladiCapezzana,VilladiTrefiano).Alsov.gdBordeaux-stylered,GhiaiedellaFurbaandanexceptionalVINSANTO.

CapicheraSar★★★V.gdifpriceyproducerofVERMENTINODI

GALLURA,espVENDEMMIAtardiva.ExcellentredMantèghjafromCARIGNANOgrapes.

CappellanoPie★★★ThelateTeobaldoCappellanowasoneofthecharactersofBAROLO,devotingpartofhisv’ydincruGabuttitoungraftedNEBBIOLOvines(PieFranco).ExcellentBarolosinahighlytraditionalstyle;also“tonic”BaroloChinato,inventedbyanancestor.

CapraiUmb★★★→★★★★Large,v.high-quality,experimentalistproducerinUmbria’sMONTEFALCO.SuperbDOCGMontefalcoSagrantino,esp25Anni,v.gdDOCROSSODIMONTEFALCO.

CaremaPieDOCr★★→★★★04’06’070809(10)(11)Obscure,light,intenseNEBBIOLOfromlower,ifprecipitous,AlpineslopesnrAosta.Best:LuigiFerrando(espEtichettaNera),ProduttoriNebbiolodiCarema.

CarignanodelSulcisSarDOCrp★★→★★★0607080910

(12)MellowbutintenseredfromSARDINIA’ssouthwest.BestwinesinclTerreBruneandRoccaRubiafromSANTADI.

CarmignanoTusDOCGr★★★99000102040607080910(11)(12)FineTuscanSANGIOVESE/international-grapeblendinventedin20thcenturybylateCountBonacossiofCAPEZZANA.Best:Ambra,Capezzana,Farnete,Piaggia,LePoggiarelle,Pratesi.

ThebestofBrunello–toptenandtherestAnyofthebelowprovidesasatisfyingBRUNELLODIMONTALCINO,butwehaveputastarnexttothetenwethinkbest:PieriAgostina,Altesino,ARGIANO,ARGIANO(CASTELLODI),Baricci,BIONDI-SANTI★,GianniBRUNELLI★,Camigliano,LaCampana,Campogiovanni,CanalicchiodiSopra,Canalicchiodi

Sotto,Caparzo,CASANOVADINERI,CASEBASSE★,CASTELGIOCONDO,CiacciPiccolomini,COLD’ORCIA,Collemattoni,CortePavone,Costanti,ErediFULIGNI,IlColle,IlParadisodiManfredi,LaFuga,LaGerla,Lambardi,LISINI★,LaMagia,LaMannella,LePotazzine,Marroneto,Mastrojanni★,Oliveto,Salvioni★,SiroPacenti,Palazzo,Pertimali,PievediSantaRestituta,LaPoderina,Piandell’Orino★,IlPOGGIONE★,POGGIOANTICO,PoggiodiSotto★,Salvioni-Cerbaiola★,Uccelliera,ValdiSuga,Valdicava.

Carpenè-MalvoltiVen★★HistoricandstillimportantbrandofPROSECCOandothersparklingwinesatCONEGLIANO.

CartizzeVen★★Famous,frequentlytooexpensiveandtoosweet,DOCPROSECCOofsupposedlybestsubzoneofValdobbiadene.

CasanovadiNeriTus★★★ModernBRUNELLODIMONTALCINO,highlyprizedCerretaltoandTenutaNuova,plusPetradoniceCABSAUVandv.gdROSSODIMONTALCINO.

CaseBasseTus★★★★VictimofhorrificvandalisminDec2012,eco-geekGianfrancoSolderahasdefiantlydeclaredhewillcarryonmakingbiodynamic,long-oak-aged,definitive-qualityBRUNELLOasbefore.Remainingbottleswillbemorerareandpreciousthanever.Seealsoboxabove.

CasteldelMonteApDOCrpw★→★★(r)0607080910(11)(pw)DYA.Dry,fresh,increasinglyseriouswinesofmid-APULIANDOC.GdPietrabiancaandexcellentBoccadiLupofromTormaresca(ANTINORI).V.gdLeMorefromSantaLucia.InterestingredsfromCocevola,GiancarloCeci.SeealsoRIVERA,whoseIlFalconeRISERVAisconsideredtheiconiccruofthezone.

CastellareTus★★→★★★CHIANTICLASSICOproducer.First-rate

SANGIOVESE-basedIGTISodidiSanNiccolóandupdatedCHIANTI,espRISERVAVignaPoggiale.AlsoPoggioaiMerli(MERLOT)andConiale(CABSAUV).

Castell’inVillaTus★★★Individual,traditionalistCHIANTICLASSICOestateofexcellencerunbyself-taughtPrincessCoraliaPignatelli.

CastelluccioE-R★★→★★★QualitySANGIOVESEfromRomagnaestateoffamedenologistVittorioFiore:IGTRoncodeiCiliegiandRoncodelleGinestre.MassiconeisanexcellentSangiovese/CABSAUVblend.

Cavallotto★★★LeadingtraditionalistinBAROLO,vydsintheheartofthezone.OutstandingBaroloRISERVABriccoBoschisVignaSanGiuseppeandRiservaVignolo,v.gdLANGHENEBBIOLO.

CerasuoloAbDOCp★DYAROSATOversionofMONTEPULCIANOD’ABRUZZO,nottobeconfusedwithredCERASUOLODIVITTORIA

fromSicily.Canbebrilliant;tryCONTESA.CerasuolodiVittoriaSiDOCGr★★08091011Medium-

bodiedredfromFrappatoandNEROD’AVOLAgrapesinsoutheast.Sicily;tryCOS,PLANETA,Valledell’Acate.

CerettoPie★★→★★★LeadingproducerofBARBARESCO(BriccoAsili),BAROLO(BriccoRocche,Brunate,Prapò),plusoneofItaly’srareRIES,Arbarei.

Cerro,FattoriadelTus★★★EstateownedbyinsurancegiantSAI,makingv.gdDOCGVINONOBILEDIMONTEPULCIANO(espcruAnticaChiusina).AlsoownsLaPoderina(BRUNELLODIMONTALCINO),Colpetrone(MONTEFALCOSAGRANTINO)andthe1,000hanorthernMAREMMAestateofMonterufoli.

WhomakesreallygoodChiantiClassico?CHIANTICLASSICOisaseriouslylargezonewithhundredsof

producers,sopickingoutthebestistricky.Thetoptengeta★:AMA★,ANTINORI,BADIAACOLTIBUONO★,Bibbiano,LeBoncie,IlBorghetto,Bossi,BROLIO,Cacchiano,CAFAGGIO,Capannelle,Capraia,Carobbio,Casaloste,CasaSola,CASTELLARE,CASTELL’INVILLA,LeCinciole,Collelungo,LeCorti,MannucciDroandi,FELSINA★,LeFiligare,FONTERUTOLI,FONTODI★,ISOLEEOLENA★,Lilliano,IlMolinodiGrace,MONSANTO★,MonteBernardi,Monteraponi★,NITTARDI,NOZZOLE,Palazzino,Paneretta,Petroio-Lenzi,Poggerino,Poggiolino,Poggiopiano,poggioalSole,QUERCIABELLA★,RAMPOLLA,Riecine,RoccadiCastagnoli,RoccadiMontegrossi★,RUFFINO,SanFabianoCalcinaia,SANFELICE,SANGIUSTOARENTENNANO★,SavignolaPaolina,Selvole,VecchieTerrediMontefili,Verrazzano,Vicchiomaggio,VIGNAMAGGIO,VillaLaRosa★,Viticcio,VOLPAIA★.

CesanesedelPiglioorPiglioLatDOCGr★→★★Medium-bodiedred,gdformoderateageing.Best:PetruccaeVela,TerredelCesanese.CesanesediOlevanoRomanoandCesanesediAffilearesimilar.

ChiantiTusDOCGr★→★★★SinceforeverthegluggingwineofcentralTuscany,fresh,fruity,astringent,easytodrink,oftenwithapercentageofwhitegrapes.Thecreationofsubzones,elevationtoDOCGandthebanishingofthewhitesintroducedunnecessarycomplication,butnowthatscrewcapmaybeusedperhapswe’llgetoursimpleChiantiback.

ChiantiClassicoTusDOCGr★★→★★★★04060708091011(12)ThehistoricCHIANTIzonewasallowedtoadd“Classico”toitsnamewhentheChiantiareawasextendedtomostofcentralTuscanyintheearly20thcentury.Coveringallorpartofninecommunes,thelandishillyandrockywithaltitudesof250–500metres.The“BlackRooster”wineistraditionally

blended,andtodaythedebateragesastowhetherthesupportgrapesshouldbeFrenchornative.

ChiarettoVenPale,light,blush-huedrosé(thewordmeans“claret”),producedesparoundLakeGARDA.SeeBARDOLINO,RivieradelGardaBresciano.

CiabotBertonPie★★★SmallLaMorragrower;classyBAROLOsatmodestprices.CrusinclRoggeriandnewRochettevino.

CiliegioloTusVarietalwineoftheTuscanMAREMMAregion,derivedfromtheeponymousgrapefromwhichSANGIOVESEisprobablyderived.TryRascionieCecconello,Sassotondo.

CinqueTerreLigDOCwdrsw★★DryVERMENTINO-basedwhitesfromsteepestRivieracoastofLIGURIA.SweetversioniscalledSCIACCHETRÀ.SeekoutArrigoni,Bisson,Buranco.

CiròCalDOCr(p)(w)★→★★★StrongredfromCALABRIA’smaingrape,Gaglioppo;orlight,fruitywhitefromGRECO(DYA).Best:CAPARRA&SICILIANI,Ippolito,Librandi(DucaSan

Felice★★★),SanFrancesco(DonnaMadda,RONCOdeiQuattroventi),SantaVenere.

ClassicoTermforwinesfromarestricted,usuallyhistoricandsuperior-qualityareawithinthelimitsofacommerciallyexpandedDOC.SeeCHIANTICLASSICO,VALPOLICELLA,SOAVEandnumerousothers.

Clerico,DomenicoPie★★★EstablishedmodernistBAROLOproducerofMonforted’ALBA,espcrusPercristina,CiabotMentinGinestra.NewBaroloAeroplanServaj.

CoffeleVen★★★Growerwithsomeofthefinestv’ydsinSOAVECLASSICO,makingsteely,minerallywinesofclassicstyle.TrycruCa’Visco.

Cold’OrciaTus★★★Third-largestandtop-qualityMONTALCINOestateownedbyFrancescoMaroneCinzano.Bestwine:BRUNELLORISERVAPoggioalVento.

Colli=hills;singular:Colle.Colline(singularCollina)=smaller

hills.SeealsoCOLLIO,POGGIO.CollidelTrasimenoUmbDOCrw★→★★(r)0607’080910

11(12)LivelywhiteGRECHETTO-basedwines(DYA)fromtheUmbrianlakewhereHannibalwhippedtheRomans.Somegdredsaswell.Best:DucadellaCorgna,LaFiorita,PievedelVescovo,POGGIOBertaio.

ColliEuganeiVenDOCrwdrs/sw(sp)★→★★DYA.DOCsouthwestofPadua.Red,whiteandsparklingarepleasant,rarelybetter.Bestproducers:Ca’Lustra,LaMontecchia,Vignalta.

CollineNovaresiPieSeeGATTINARA.CollioF-VGDOCrw★★→★★★★Hillyzoneonborderwith

Slovenia.Espknownforcomplex,sometimesdeliberatelyoxidizedwhites,whichmaybevinifiedonskinsinearthenwarevessels/amphorasintheground.Someareexcellent,someareshockingblendsfromvariousFrench,GermanandSlavic

grapes.Numerousgd-to-excellentproducersinclBORGODELTIGLIO,LaCastellada,CastellodiSpessa,MARCOFELLUGA,Fiegl,GRAVNER,RenatoKeber,LIVON,AldoPolencic,Primosic,Princic,RussizSUPERIORE,Schiopetto,Tercic,Terpin,Venica&Venica,VILLARUSSIZ,Zuani.

ColliOrientalidelFriuliF-VGDOCrwdrsw★★→★★★★HillsineasternFRIULI.ZonesimilartoCOLLIObutlessexperimental,moreorientedtowardsredsandstickies.Topproducers:Meroi,Miani,Moschioni,LIVIOFELLUGA,RosaBosco,RONCOdelGnemiz.SweetwinesfromVERDUZZOgrapes(calledRamandoloiffromaroundNimis:AnnaBerra,GiovanniDri)orPICOLITgrapes(RonchidiCialla)canbeamazing.

ColliPiacentiniE-RDOCrpw★→★★DYALightgulpingwines,oftenfizzy(redorwhite),fromvariousgrapesinclBARBERAandBONARDA(r),MALVASIAandPignoletto(w)plusvariousPINOTvarieties.SimilartoOLTREPÒPAVESEbuttendingto

serveEmiliaratherthanLombardy.Gdproducers:Montesissa,Mossi,Romagnoli,Solenghi,LaStoppa,TorreFornello,LaTosa.SeealsoGUTTURNIO.

ColognoleTus★★Ex-ContiSpallettiestatemakingincreasinglyclassyCHIANTIRUFINA,RISERVAdelDonfromspectacularsitesonsouth-facingslopesofMonteGiovi.

ColterenzioCS/SchreckbichlT-AA★★→★★★Cornaiano-basedmainplayeramongALTOADIGEco-ops.Whites(SAUVLafoa,CHARDAltkirch,PINOTBIANCOWeisshausPraedium)tendtobebetterthanreds,despitetherenownofCABSAUVLafoa.

ConeglianoValdobbiadeneVenDOCGwsp★→★★DYA.NamefortopPROSECCO,dauntingtopronounce:maybeusedseparatelyortogether.

Conterno,AldoPie★★★→★★★★RecentlydeceasedtopgrowerofMonforted’ALBA,hewasconsideredatraditionalist,espconcerninghistopBAROLOsGranbussia,Cicalaand

Colonello.Hissonsareexpectedtomovethewineryinamoremodernistdirection.

Conterno,GiacomoPie★★★★Iconicgrowerofsuper-traditionalBAROLOwithcellaratMonforted’ALBA,Giacomo’sgrandsonRobertonowcarryingonfatherGiovanni’swork.TwoBarolosfromCascinaFranciav’ydinSerralunga:CascinaFranciaandMonfortino,long-maceratedtoageforyrs.

ConternoFantinoPie★★★Twofamiliesjoinedtoproduceexcellentmodern-styleBAROLOSorìGinestraandVignadelGrisatMonforted’ALBA.AlsoNEBBIOLO/BARBERAblendMonprà.

Conterno,PaoloPie★★→★★★AfamilyofNEBBIOLOandBARBERAgrowerssince1886.CurrenttitolareGiorgiocontinueswithtextbookcruBAROLOsGinestraandRivadelBric,plusparticularlyfineLANGHENebbioloBricGinestra.

ContesaAb★★→★★★Collecorvino,Pescara,v’ydofoenologistRoccoPasettimakesexcellentredMONTEPULCIANO

D’ABRUZZO,roséCERASUOLOandwhitePECORINOundertheContesalabel.

Contini,AttilioSar★→★★★FamousSardinianproducerofSherry-like,flor-affectedVERNACCIADIORISTANO.BestisvintageblendAnticoGregori.

ContucciTus★★→★★★Millennialproduceroftraditional-styleVINONOBILE.HiscellaratMONTEPULCIANOvautledetour.

CopertinoApDOCr(p)★★★06070810(11)(12)Smooth,savouryredfromtheNEGROAMAROgrape,fromtheheelofItaly.AZIENDAMONACIandCSCopertinoaregdproducers.

CoppoPie★★→★★★TopproducersofBARBERAd’ASTI(PomorossoandRISERVAdellaFamiglia).AlsoexcellentCHARDMonterioloandsparklingRiservadelFondatore.

CortesediGaviPieSeeGAVI.(Corteseisthegrape.)CortonaTuscanDOCcontiguoustoMONTEPULCIANOVINONOBILE.

Variousredandwhitegrapes,gdwinesinclAvignonesi’s

Desiderio,aMERLOT,andfirst-rateSYRAHfromLuigid’Alessandro,IlCastagno,LaBraccesca.

CS(CantinaSociale)Cooperativewinery.Cubi,ValentinaVen★★→★★★ValentinaCubilendsher

nametothisfinesmallestate,makingAMARONEofindividualityandbreedingandVALPOLICELLACLASSICOofcharmandcomplexity.HerhusbandisGiancarloVason,oneofItaly’sforemostwinechemists.

DalForno,RomanoVen★★★★V.high-qualityVALPOLICELLA,AMARONEandRECIOTOgrowerwhoseperfectionismisthemoreremarkableforthefactthathisv’ydsareoutsidetheCLASSICOzone.

DeBartoli,MarcoSeeVECCHIOSAMPERI.DeiPie★★→★★★PianistCaterinaDeirunsthisaristocratic

andelegantestateinMONTEPULCIANO,makingVINONOBILEswithartistryandpassion.Herchefd’oeuvreisNobiledi

MontepulcianoBossona.DiMajoNoranteMol★★→★★★Rarequalityproducerof

Molisewithv.gdBifernoRossoRamitello,DonLuigiMoliseRossoRISERVAandMoliseAGLIANICOContado,whiteblendFALANGHINA-GRECOBiblosandMOSCATOPASSITOApianae.

DOC/DOCGQualitywinedesignation:seeboxWhatdotheinitialsmean?.

DoglianiPieDOCGr★→★★★060708091011(12)DOCGDOLCETTOfromPIEDMONT,thoughtheyhavedroppedthegrapefromthelabeltoconfuseconsumers.Someversionstodrinkyoung,othersformoderateageing.Gdproducers:MarzianoAbbona,OsvaldoBarbaris,FrancescoBoschis,Chionetti,Clavesana,Einaudi,Pecchenino.

ItalianwinesmadeinorafterJuly2012willhavetodeclareallergenicsubstancesonthelabel.

DonnafugataSirw★★→★★★Well-maderangeofContessaEntellinaDOC:topredsareMilleeUnaNotteandTancredi;topwhitesChiarandaandVignadiGabri.Alsov.fineMOSCATOPASSITOdiPANTELLERIABenRye.

DucadiSalaparutaSi★★AkaViniCorvo.OnceonthelistofeverytrattoriainChristendom,theCorvobrandhasgivenwaytomoreupmarketredsPassodelleMuleandLavico(andofcourse,oldfavouriteDucaEnrico),pluswhitesKadosandValguarnero.

ElbaTusrw(sp)★→★★DYA.Theisland’swhite,basedonAnsonicaandTREBBIANO,canbev.drinkablewithfish.DryredsarebasedonSANGIOVESE.Gdsweetwhite(MOSCATO)andred(AleaticoPassitoDOCG).Gdproducers:Acquabona,Sapereta.

EnotecaWinelibrary;alsowineshoporrestaurantwithextensivewinelist.ThereisanationalenotecaatthefortezzainSiena.

EsinoMarDOCrw★→★★★(r)0607080910(11)(12)

AnotherDOCofVERDICCHIOcountry,allowing50%ofothergrapestobeaddedtoVerdicchioforBiancoand40%toSANGIOVESE/MONTEPULCIANOforRosso.Top-qualityredfromMonteSchiavo(Adeodato)andBelisario(Colferraio).

Est!Est!!Est!!!LatDOCwdrs/sw★DYA.UnextraordinarywhitewinefromMontefiascone,northofRome.Tradesontheimprobableoriginofitsname.BestisFalesco.

EtnaSiDOCrpw★★→★★★(r)04050607080910(11)(12)Winefromvolcanicslopes,oftenhighup.Etna’sv’ydsdeclinedinthe20thcentury,butnewmoneyhasbroughtaflurryofplantingandsomeexcellentwines,ratherinthestyleofburgundy,thoughbasedonNERELLOMASCALESE(r)andCARRICANTE(w).Gdproducers:Benanti,Calcagno,IlCantante,Cottanera,TerreNere,Passopisciaro,GirolamoRusso,BaronediVillagrande,Nicosia.

FalchiniTus★★→★★★ProducerofgdDOCGVERNACCIADISAN

GIMIGNANO(VignaaSolatioandoakedAbVineaDoni),plustopBordeauxblendCamporaandSANGIOVESE-basedParetaio.RiccardoFalchiniwasachampionoffineSANGIMIGNANO,ablysucceededbyhishalf-Americanchildren.

FalernodelMassicoCam★★→★★★DOCrw★★(r)040607080910(11)(12)FalernumwastheChâteauYquemofRomantimes.TodayelegantredfromAGLIANICO,fruitydrywhitefromFALANGHINA.Best:VILLAMATILDE,AmorePerrotta,Felicia,Moio,Trabucco.

FaraPieSeeGATTINARA.FaroSiDOCr★★★04’06’07’080910(11)(12)Intense,

harmoniousredfromNERELLOMASCALESEandNerelloCappuccioinhillsbehindMessina.SalvatoreGeraciofPalari,themajorproducer,administeredthekissoflifewhenextinctionseemedlikely.AlsoBonavita.

Felluga,LivioF-VG★★★ConsistentlyfineCOLLIORIENTALIDEL

FRIULIwines,espblendsTerreAlteandIllivio,alsoPinotGr,SAUVBL,FRIULANO,PICOLITandMERLOT/REFOSCOblendSossó.

Felluga,MarcoF-VG★★→★★★ProlificbrotherofLivioFellugaisanegociant.HisRussizSUPERIOREinCOLLIODOC,CastellodiButtrioinCOLLIORIENTALIDOCareyardstick,plusgdvarietalsFRIULANO,PINOTGRIGIOandSAUVBL.

FelsinaTus★★★GiuseppeMazzocolinhasrunthisCHIANTICLASSICOestatefor30yrs:classicRISERVARanciaandIGTFontalloro,both100%SANGIOVESE.AlsogdCHARD,ISistriandCastellodiFarnetella,gdCHIANTIColliSenesi.

FerrariT-AA★★→★★★TrentomakerofthebestMETODOCLASSICOwinesoutsideFRANCIACORTA.GiulioFerrariistopcru,alsogdareCHARD-basedBrutRISERVALunelliandPINOTN-basedExtraBrutPerle’Nero.

FeudidiSanGregorioCam★★→★★★Much-hypedCAMPANIAproducer,withDOCGsTAURASIPianodi

Montevergine,FIANOdiAvellinoPietracaldaandGRECODITUFOCutizzi.AlsoIGTredsSerpico(AGLIANICO),Patrimo(MERLOT)andwhitesFalanghina,Campanaro.

FlorioSiHistoricqualitymakerofMARSALA.SpecialistinMarsalaVergineSecco.ForsomereasonTerreArse(=burntlands),theirbestwine,doesn’tdowellintheUK.

FolonariTusAmbrogioFolonariandsonGiovanni,havingsplitofffromthegiantRUFFINO,havequiteaquiver-fulloftheirown.NBCabreo(aCHARDandaSANGIOVESE/CABSAUV),winesofNOZZOLE(incltopCabSauvPareto),BRUNELLODIMONTALCINOLaFuga,VINONOBILEDIMONTEPULCIANOGraccianoSvetoni,pluswinesfromBOLGHERI,MONTECUCCOandCOLLIORIENTALIDELFRIULI.

FontanaCandidaLat★★Biggestproducerofonce-fashonableFRASCATI.Single-v’ydSantaTeresastandsout.PartofhugeGRUPPOITALIANOVINI.

FontanafreddaPie★★→★★★Much-improvedlargeproducerofPIEDMONTwinesonformerroyalestates,inclBAROLOSerralungaandBarolocrusLazzaritoMirafioreandVignaLaRosa.ExcellentLANGHENEBBIOLOMirafiore.PlusALBADOCsandsparklersdry(ContessaRosaPasDosè)andsweet(ASTI).

FonterutoliTus★★★HistoricCHIANTICLASSICOestateofMazzeifamilyatCastellinawithspace-agenewCANTINA.NotableareCastellodiFonterutoli(dark,oakyCHIANTI),IGTSiepi(SANGIOVESE/MERLOT).TheMazzeialsoownTenutadiBelguardoinMAREMMA,gdMORELLINODISCANSANOandIGTwines.

FontodiTus★★★→★★★★OutstandingMachettifamilyestateatPanzanomakingoneoftheabsolutebeststraightCHIANTICLASSICOs,RISERVAVignadelSorbo,aswellasoutstanding100%SANGIOVESEFlaccianello,anIGTwhichcouldandoughttobeChiantiClassico.ProperIGTSPINOTNandSYRAH

CaseViaareamongthebestofthesevarietalsinTUSCANY.ForadoriT-AA★★★ElizabettaForadorihas,for30yrs,been

oneofthepioneeringspiritsofItalianviniculture,mainlyviathegreatredgrapeofTrentino,Teroldego.NowsheisfermentinginanforawithredslikeMoreiandwhiteslikeManzoniBiancoFontanasanta.PeakofproductionremainsTEROLDEGO-basedGranato.

FranciacortaLomDOCGw(p)sp★★→★★★★Italy’smajorproductionzonefortop-qualityMETODOCLASSICOsparkling.Bestproducers:BaronePizzini,BELLAVISTA,CA’DELBOSCO,Castellino,Cavalleri,Gatti,Uberti,Villa.Alsov.gd:ContadiGastaldi,MonteRossa,RicciCurbastri.

FrascatiLatDOCwdrsws/sw(sp)★→★★DYA.Best-knownwineofRomanhills,constantlyunderthreatfromurbanexpansion.FromMALVASIAand/orTREBBIANO,mostisdisappointinglyneutral:lookforCasteldePaolisandConte

Zandotti,VillaSimone,orSantaTeresafromFONTANACANDIDA.ThesweetversionisknownasCannellino.

HuntingraritiesLastyearwechallengedreaderstogoinsearchofsomeofItaly’samazing,andamazinglyobscure,grapevarieties.Thisyearthesfida(Italianfor“challenge”)istofind,anddrink,someofhermoreunusualwines.Maxonewine/region,startingwithVALLED’AOSTA:PetiteArvinefromLaSource;PIEDMONT:ColliTortonesiDOCBiancoDerthonaCostadelVento;LIGURIA:RossesediDolceacquaBriccoArcagnafromTerreBlanche;Lombardy:OLTREPÒPAVESEButtafuocoBriccoRivaBiancafromAndreaPicchioni;TRENTINO:MarzeminoPoiemafromEugenioRosi;ALTOADIGE:ValleIsarcoKernerfromStrasserhof;Veneto:CustozaSuperioreAmedeofromCavalchina;FRIULI:FRIULANOFriuliGravefromVignaida

Duline;Emilia-Romagna:ALBANADIROMAGNASeccoCodronchiofromFattoriaMonticinoRosso.Writetothepublisherifyoucollectlabelsofthewholeset.Nextyearwe’lllooktothecentreandsouth.

Freisad’AstiPieDOCrdrsws/sw(sp)★→★★★Twodistinctstyles:frivolous,maybeFRIZZANTE,maybesweetish;orserious,dryandtannicforageing(sofollowBAROLOvintages).Best:Brezza,Cigliuti,CLERICO,ALDOCONTERNO,COPPO,FrancoMartinetti,GIUSEPPEMASCARELLO,Parusso,Pecchenino,Pelissero,Sebaste,Trinchero,VAJRA,VOERZIO.

FrescobaldiTus★★→★★★★Ancientnoblefamily,leadingCHIANTIRúfinapioneeratNIPOZZANOestate(lookforMontesodi★★★),alsoBRUNELLOfromCastelgiocondoestateinMONTALCINO.SoleownersofLUCEestateinMONTALCINOandORNELLAIAinBOLGHERI.V’ydsalsoinMAREMMA,Montespertoli

andCOLLIO.FriulanoF-VG★→★★Newnameofwhatusedtobecalled

TocaiFRIULANO(akaSauvignonasseorSauvignonVert),the“Tocai”parthavingdisappearedduetopressurefromHungary.Fresh,pungent,subtlyfloralwhites,bestfromCOLLIO,ISONZOandCOLLIORIENTALI.Gdproducers:BORGODELTIGLIO,LIVIOFELLUGA,LISNERIS,PierpaoloPecorari,RONCOdelGelso,RoncodelGnemiz,RussizSUPERIORE,SCHIOPETTO,LEVIGNEDIZAMÒ,VILLARUSSIZ.Thenewnameforex-TocaifromVeneto,bytheway,is“Tai”.

Friuli-VeneziaGiuliaF-VGThenortheastregionontheSlovenianborder.SeveralDOCs,inclISONZO,COLLIOandCOLLIORIENTALI.Gdreds,butconsideredthehomeofItaly’smostadventurousandaccomplishedwhites.

FrizzanteSemi-sparkling,eg.MOSCATOD’ASTIandmostPROSECCO.FuligniTus★★★→★★★★OutstandingproducerofBRUNELLO

andROSSODIMONTALCINO.GajaPie★★★★OldfamilyfirmatBARBARESCOledbyAngelo

Gaja,highlyaudibleapostleofItalianwine;daughterGaiaGfollowing.Highquality,evenhigherprices.BARBARESCOistheonlyPIEDMONTESEDOCGGajamakesafterdown-classinghiscrusSorìTildin,SorìSanLorenzoandCostaRussiaswellasBAROLOSpersstoLANGHEDOCsothathecouldaddalittleBARBERAtohisNEBBIOLO.SplendidCHARD(GaiaeRey),CABSAUVDarmagi.AlsoownerofPievediSantaRestitutainMONTALCINO,CA’MARCANDAinBOLGHERI.

GalardiCam★★★ProducerofTerradiLavoro,ahighlytoutedblendofAGLIANICOandPiedirosso,innorthCAMPANIA.

GardaVenDOCrpw★→★★(r)07080910(11)(12)(wp)DYA.Catch-allDOCforearly-drinkingwinesofvariouscoloursfromprovincesofVeronainVeneto,BresciaandMantuainLombardy.Gdproducers:Cavalchina,Zeni.

GarofoliMar★★→★★★AqualityleaderintheMarchesregion,specializinginVERDICCHIO(Podium,MacrinaandSerraFiorese)andROSSOCONERO(PiancardaandGrossoAgontano).

GattinaraPieDOCGr★★→★★★01’04’0607’0809(10)(11)(12)Best-knownofaclusterofnorthernPIEDMONTESEDOC(G)sbasedonNEBBIOLO.BestproducersinclTravaglini,Antoniolo,Bianchi,Nervi,TorracciadelPiantavigna.SimilarDOC(G)softhezone:GHEMME,BOCA,BRAMATERRA,COLLINENOVARESI,CostadellaSesia,FARA,LESSONA,SIZZANO.Noneofthem,sadly,measureuptoBAROLO/BARBARESCOattheirbest.

Gavi/CortesediGaviPieDOCGw★→★★★DYA.Atbest,subtledrywhiteofCortesegrapes,thoughmuchisdull.MostcomesfromcommuneofGavi,henceGavidiGavi.Best:CastellariBergaglio,FrancoMartinetti,Toledana,VillaSparina,Broglia,CascinadegliUlivi,CastellodiTassarolo,CHIARLO,LaGiustiniana,PodereSaulino.

GhemmePieDOCGSeeGATTINARA.Giacosa,BrunoPie★★→★★★★ConsideredbysomeItaly’s

greatestwinemaker,thisbroodinggeniussufferedastrokein2006,butgoesoncraftingsplendidtraditional-styleBARBARESCOs(Asili,SantoStefano)andBAROLOs(Falletto,RocchediFalletto).Topwines(ie.RISERVAs)getfamousredlabel.Alsomakesarangeoffinereds(DOLCETTO,NEBBIOLO,BARBERA),whites(ARNEIS)andanamazingMETODOCLASSICOBrut.

GleraVenSeePROSECCO.GrappaPungent,potentspiritmadefromgrapepomace(skins,etc.,

afterpressing),canbeanythingfromdisgustingtoinspirational.WhattheFrenchcall“marc”.

Grasso,ElioPie★★★→★★★★TopBAROLOproducer(crusVignaChiniera,CasaMaté);v.gdBARBERAd’ALBAVignaMartina,DOLCETTOd’AlbaandCHARDEducato.

GravedelFriuliF-VGDOCrw★→★★(r)08091011(12)ThelargestDOCofFRIULI-VENEZIAGIULIA,mostlyonplains.Importantvolumesofunderwhelmingwines.ExceptionsfromBorgoMagredo,DiLenardo,RONCOCliona,VillaChiopris,SanSimone.

Gravner,JoskoF-VG★★★ControversialCOLLIOproducer,believesinmacerationonskinsinburiedamphorae,followedbylongageing.Hiswinesareeitherlovedfortheircomplexityorloathedfortheiroxidationandphenolicflavours.WinesinclaMERLOT-basedRossoandwhiteblendBreg,andvarietalRIBOLLA.

GrecodiTufoCamDOCGw(sp)★★→★★★DYAOneofthebestwhitesofthesouth:fruity,slightlyandatbestage-worthy.V.gdexamplesfromCaggiano,Caputo,BenitoFerrara,FEUDIDISANGREGORIO,Macchialupa,Mastroberardino(NovaSerraandVignadangelo),Vesevo,VillaRaiano.OtherCampanianwines

calledGrecoareofthesamesub-variety,butthereareseveraltenuouslyornon-relatedGrecosinsouthernItaly.

Gresy,Marchesidi(CisaAsinari)Pie★★★Consistent,sometimesinspiredproduceroftraditional-styleBARBARESCO(crusGaiunandCampGros).Alsov.gdSAUVBL,CHARD,MOSCATOd’ASTI,BARBERAd’Asti.

GrignolinoPieDOCr★DYAlivelylightredofASTIzone,fordrinkingyoung.Best:BRAIDA,MarchesiIncisadellaRocchetta.Also,GdelMonferratoCasaleseDOC(Accornero,BriccoMondalino,LaTenaglia).

GruppoItalianoVini(GIV)Complexofco-opsandwineries,biggestv’ydholdersinItaly.EstatesinclBigi,BOLLA,Ca’Bianca,ContiSerristori,FOLONARI,FONTANACANDIDA,Lamberti,Macchiavelli,MELINI,Negri,Santi,VignaiolidiSanFloriano.Hasalsoexpandedintosouth:SICILYandBasilicata.

Guardiense,LaCam★★Dynamicco-op,1,000grower-

members,2,000hav’yd,forbetter-than-averagewhitesandredsatlower-than-averagepricesundertechnicaldirectionofRiccardoCotarella.

GuerrieriRizzardi★★→★★★Long-establishedaristoproducerofthewinesofVerona,espofVeroneseGARDA.GdBARDOLINOClassicoTacchetto,elegantAMARONEVillaRizzardiandROSATORosaRosae.RespectableSOAVEClassicoCosteggiola.

GutturniodeiColliPiacentiniE-RDOCrdr★→★★DYA.BARBERA/BONARDAblendfromtheCOLLIPIACENTINI.Producers:CastellidelDuca,LaPergola,LaStoppa,LaTosa.

Haas,FranzT-AA★★★ALTOADIGEproducer;v.gdPINOTN,LAGREIN(Schweizer)andIGTblends,espthewhiteManna.

HofstätterT-AA★★★ALTOADIGEmakeroftopPinotN.LookforBarthenauVignaSant’Urbano,alsoLAGREIN,CABSAUV/PETITVERDOT,GEWURZ.

IlParadisodiManfrediTus★★★Hand-craftedBRUNELLODI

MONTALCINOfromthistinypropertyisworthseekingoutforatasteoftherealthing,notinvariablytechnicallyperfectbutwithbagsofsoul.

IndicazioneGeograficaTipica(IGT)SeeboxWhatdotheinitialsmean?.

IschiaCamDOC(r)w★→★★DYA.IslandoffNaples,withowngrapevarieties(eg.Forastera,Biancolella)mainlysoldtotourists.Topproducer:D’Ambra(BiancolellaFrassitelli,ForasteraEuposia).Alsogd:IlGiardinoMediterraneoandPietratorcia.

IsoleeOlenaTus★★★→★★★★TopCHIANTICLASSICOestaterunbyastutePaolodeMarchi,withsuperbredIGTCepparello.V.gdVINSANTO,CABSAUV,CHARD,SYRAH.AlsoownsSperinoinLessona(seeGATTINARA).

IsonzoF-VGDOCrw★★★Gravelly,well-airedplainofFRIULIIsonzo,amultiDOCareawithmanyvarietalsandblends.The

starsaremostlywhite,scentedandstructured,suchasVIEDIROMANS’FlorsdiUisandLISNERIS’FiorediCampo.Alsogd:BorgoConventi,PierpaoloPecorari,RONCOdelGelso.

Jermann,SilvioF-VG★★→★★★Famousestate;v’ydsinCOLLIOandISONZO:topwhiteblendVintageTunina,oak-agedblendCapoMartinoandCHARD,ex-“Dreams”.

LacrimadiMorrod’AlbaMarDYA.Curiouslynamed,muscattylightredfromasmallcommuneintheMarches,noconnectionwithALBAorLaMorrainPIEDMONT.Gdproducers:Mancinelli,MONTESCHIAVO.

Lacryma(orLacrima)ChristidelVesuvioCamrpwdr(sw)(sp)★→★★DOCVesuviowinesbasedonCodadiVolpe(w)andPiedirosso(r).Despitetheromanticname,VesuviuscomesnowherenrETNAinthequalitystakes.Caputo,DeAngelisandMASTROBERARDINOmakeuninspiredversions.

Lageder,AloisT-AA★★→★★★TopALTOADIGEproducer.

Mostexcitingwinesaresingle-v’ydvarietals:SauvBlLehenhof,PINOTGRBenefiziumPorer,CHARDLöwengang,GEWURZAmSand,PINOTNKrafuss,LAGREINLindenberg,CABSAUVCorRömigberg.AlsoownsCasonHirschprunnforv.gdIGTblends.

LagodiCorbaraUmbr★★07’080910(11)(12)RelativelyrecentDOCforqualityredsoftheORVIETOarea.BestfromBarberani(VillaMonticelli)andDecugnanodeiBarbi.

LagreinAltoAdigeT-AADOCrp★★→★★★04’06’07’080910(11)PlummyredswithbitterfinishfromtheLAGREINgrape.Bestgrowingzone:Gries,suburbofBolzano.Bestproducers:Colterenzioco-op,Gojer,Griesco-op,HAAS,HOFSTÄTTER,LAGEDER,Laimburg,JosephusMayr,ThomasMayr,MURIGRIES,NALSMARGREID,Niedermayr,Niedrist,St-Magdalena,TERLANOco-op,TIEFENBRUNNER.

LambruscoE-RDOC(ornot)rpwdrs/sw★→★★DYA.Once

v.popularfizzyredfromnrModena,mainlyinindustrial,semi-sweet,non-DOCversion.Sometimesvinifiedblancdenoirs.BestisSecco,bottle-fermentedorintank.DOCs:LGrasparossadiCastelvetro,LSalaminodiSantaCroce,LdiSorbara.Best:Bellei,Caprari,Casali,CAVICCHIOLI,Graziano,LiniOreste,MediciErmete(espConcerto),RinaldoRinaldini,VenturiniBaldini.

TryGrapevarieties.

LanghePieThehillsofcentralPIEDMONT,homeofBAROLO,BARBARESCO,etc.DOCnameforseveralPiedmontesevarietalsplusblendsBiancoandRosso.ThosewishingtoblendothergrapeswiththeirNEBBIOLO,suchasGAJA,candosoatupto15%as“LangheNebbiolo”.

LePotazzineTus★★★BRUNELLOandROSSODIMONTALCINOofwinemakercouple,namedaftertheirtwolittlebirds(two

daughters),fromloftysitejustsouthofMONTALCINO.Thewines,too,havegrowninstatureandtodayattractwidespreadadmiration.Allmaybefoundatthefamily’srestaurantincentreofMontalcino.

LePupilleTus★★★ElisabettaGeppettiremainsthemostrespectedforceinMORELLINODISCANSANO,withfineversionsoftheDOCGtoppedbyRISERVAPoggioValente.AlsoexcellentIGTblendSaffredi(CABSAUV/MERLOT/SYRAH/Alicante).

LessonaPieSeeGATTINARA.LibrandiCal★★★Topproducerpioneeringresearchinto

Calabrianvarieties.V.gdredCIRÒ(RiservaDucaSanFeliceis★★★),IGTGravello(CABSAUV/Gaglioppoblend),MagnoMegonio(r)fromMaglioccograpeandIGTEfeso(w)fromMantonico.Otherlocalvarietiesinexperimentalphase.Tofollow.

LiguriaTheItalianrivieraisrocky,butviticultureisrewarding:

mostwinesselltosun-strucktouristsatfatprofits,sodon’ttravelmuch.Maingrapes:VERMENTINO(w)–bestproducerisLambruschi–andDOLCETTO(r),butdon’tmissCINQUETERRE’sSCIACCHETRÀorredOrmeascodiPornassio.

LisiniTus★★★→★★★★Historicestateforsomeofthefinestandlongest-lastingBRUNELLO,espRISERVAUgolaia.

LisNerisF-VG★★★TopISONZOestateforgdwhitewines,espPINOTGR,CHARD(Jurosa),SAUVBL(Picol)andFRIULANO(FiorediCampo),plusblendsConfiniandLis.Alsov.gdLisNerisRosso(MERLOT/CABSAUV)andsweetwhiteTalLuc(VERDUZZO/RIES).

LoackerT-AA★★→★★★Biodynamic(andhomeopathic)producerofALTOADIGEwines,installedinTUSCANYandmakingfineBRUNELLOandROSSODIMONTALCINOundertheCortePavonelabel,plusgdMORELLINODISCANSANOValdifalco.

LocorotondoApDOCw(sp)★DYAThirst-quencherdrywhite

fromAPULIA’sVerdecaandBiancod’Alessanograpes,muchquaffedinsitubyvacationingtrulli-seekers,little-soughtfuorizona.

LuceTus★★★FRESCOBALDIissoleownerofthisexerciseinhyperboleandhighprice,havingboughtoutoriginalpartnerMondavi.ASANGIOVESE/MERLOTblendforRussianoligarchsandChinesemillionaires.

LuganaDOCw(sp)★→★★DYA.OccasionallycomplexwhiteofsouthernLakeGARDA,maingrapeTREBBIANOdiLugana(=VERDICCHIO).Dryandsappy.Best:CA’DEIFRATI,ZENATO,Zeni.

LungarottiUmb★★★LeadingproducerofTORGIANO,withcellars,hotelandmuseum,nrPerugia.Starwine:DOCGRISERVARubesco.GdIGTSangiorgio(SANGIOVESE/CABSAUV),Aurente(CHARD),Giubilante.GdMONTEFALCOSAGRANTINO.

Macchiole,LeTus★★★EugenioCampolmi’swidow,withoenologistLucad’Attoma,continueshisfineworkwithCABFR

(PaleoRosso)andMERLOT(Messorio),aswellasSYRAH(Scrio).MaculanVen★★★OneofthefirstinVenetotoaimathigh

quality,yrsago.ExcellentCABSAUV(Fratta,Ferrata),CHARD(Ferrata),MERLOT(Marchesante)andTorcolato(espRISERVAAcininobili).

MalenchiniTus★★EstateofoldFlorentinefamily(fromtheirbalconyyoucanseetheDuomo)makinghonest,simpleChiantiandmorecomplexCHIANTICOLLIFiorentini,plusCABSAUV/SANGIOVESEblendBruzzico.

MalvasiadelleLipariDOCwsw★★★Luscioussweetwine,fromMALVASIAgrape,fromfascinatingislandoffSICILIANcoast.

MametePrevostini★★→★★★RelativelynewproducerofVALTELLINA.Purevarietal(NEBBIOLO)DOCGwinesofclassmainlyfromSassellaSUPERIOREbutalsoInfernoandGrumelloSuperiore.TwofineSFORZATOs.

Mancini,FattoriaMar★★EstateontheseanrPesaro.

RemarkablePinotN(rw),freshwhiteAlbanellaandstrangestainingAncellotaredcalledBlu.

Manduria(Primitivodi)ApDOCrs/sw★★→★★★PRIMITIVO’smanyproducersinclCantele,deCastris,Polvanera,RacemiandCSManduria.

MarchesidiBaroloPie★★Historic,perhapsoriginalBAROLOproducer,incommuneofBarolo,makingcrusCannubiandSarmassa,plusotherALBAwines.

MaremmaTusFashionablecoastalareaofsouthernTUSCANY,espprovinceofGrosseto.DOC(G)sinclMONTEREGIO,MORELLINODISCANSANO,PARRINA,Pitigliano,SOVANA(Grosseto).Lavishrecentinvestment.MaremmaToscanaIGTisnowMaremmaToscanaDOC.

MarsalaSiDOCwswSICILY’soncefamousfortifiedwine(★→★★★),inventedbyWoodhouseBrosfromLiverpoolin1773.Deterioratedinthe20thcenturytocookingwine,and

thoughthisstuffnolongerqualifiesforDOCstatus,theimageremainslow.Severalversionsfromdrytov.sweet;bestisbone-dryMarsalaVergine,potentiallyahighlyvalidapéritififdesperatelyunfashionable.SeealsoVECCHIOSAMPERI.

MarzeminoTrentinoT-AADOCr★→★★091011(12)Pleasanteverydayred,fruityandslightlybitter.EspfromBossiFedrigotti,CA’VIT,DeTarczal,Gaierhof,Letrari,Longariva,Simoncelli,ESpagnolli,Vallarom.

MascarelloPieThenameoftwotopproducersofBAROLO:BartoloM,ofBarolo(deceased),whosedaughterMariaTeresacontinuesherfather’shighlytraditionalpath;andGiuseppeM,ofMonchiero,whosesonMauromakessuperior,traditional-styleBarolofromthegreatMonprivatov’ydinCastiglioneFalletto.BewareotherMascarellos.

MasiVen★★→★★★Exponent/researcherofVALPOLICELLA,AMARONE,RECIOTO,SOAVE,etc.,inclfineRossoVeronese

CampofiorinandAmarone-stylewinesfromFRIULIandArgentina.V.gdbarrel-agedredIGTToar,fromCORVINAandOseletagrapes,alsoOsar(Oseleta).TopAmaronesinclMazzanoandCampolongodiTorbe.

Massa,LaTus★★★GiampaoloMottaisaBordeaux-lovermakingclaret-likeIGTwineswithaTUSCANaccent(LaMassa,GiorgioPrimo),fromCABSAUV,MERLOTandSANGIOVESE,athisfineestateinPanzanoinCHIANTICLASSICO,whichdenominationhehasabandoned.

MassolinoVignaRiondaPie★★★OneofthefinestestatesoftheBAROLOcommuneofSerralunga,reputedforhighlystructuredwines.TheexcellentBParafadaandBMargheriadohavefirmstructure,butfruitydrinkability,too.TopcruisRISERVAVignaRionda,capableofv.longageing.

MastroberardinoCam★★→★★★HistoricproducerofCAMPANIA’SmountainousAvellinoprovince,qualitytorch-

bearerforItaly’ssouthduringdarkyrsofmid-20thcentury.TopTaurasi(lookforHistoriaNaturalisandRadici),alsoFIANOdiAvellino.MoreMaiorumandGRECODITUFONovaSerra.

Matura,GruppoGroupofagronomistsandoenologistsheadedbyAlbertoAntoniniandAttilioPagli,helpingproducersnotonlythroughoutTUSCANYbutelsewhereinthecountry–andindeed,theworld.

TragedyinMontalcinoApressreleaseissuedbythefamilyofGianfrancoSoldera,creatorofarguablythefinestofallBRUNELLOs,reads:“Duringthenightbetween2and3Dec,2012,[criminals]brokeintoourcellaratCASEBASSE;theydidnotstealasinglebottle,butwithanextremelyseriousactofdeliberatecriminalvandalismtheyopenedthevalvesoftenbarrelsofsixvintagesoffuture

BrunellodiMontalcino:07,08,09,10,11,12:alossof62,000litresofBrunello(theentireproduction).ThisisequivalenttodestroyingsixvintagesofChâteauLatour,exceptforthevolume(muchlower)andtheprice(evenlower,atapaltry€100/bottleex-cellars).Anarrest,ofanex-employee,hasbeenmadebytheCarabinieriandthematternowbecomessubiudice.”

MeliniTus★★MajorproducerofCHIANTICLASSICOatPoggibonsi,partofGIV.Gdquality/price,espChiantiClassicoSelvanellaandRISERVASLaSelvanellaandMasovecchio.

MetodoclassicoortradizionaleItalianfor“Champagnemethod”,whichtermisnotpermitted.

MezzacoronaT-AA★→★★MassiveTRENTINOco-opinthecommuneofMezzocorona(spotthedifference)withwiderange

ofgdtechnicalwines,espTEROLDEGOROTALIANONosandMETODOCLASSICORotari.

MonferratoPieDOCrpwsw★→★★HillsbetweenriverPoandApennines,bringingforthmostlywinesforeverydaydrinkingratherthanofseriousintent.

MonicadiSardegnaSarDOCr★→★★DYA.ThemainstayofSARDINIA:light,dryred.

MonsantoTus★★★EsteemedCHIANTICLASSICOestate,espforIlPOGGIORISERVA(firstsingle-v’ydChiantiClassico),ChiantiClassicoRiservaandIGTsFabrizioBianchi(CHARD)andNemo(CABSAUV).

MontalcinoTusSmalltowninprovinceofSiena,famousforconcentrated,expensiveBRUNELLOandmoreapproachable,better-valueROSSODIMONTALCINO.Sceneofblendingscandalinmid-noughtiesandofspectacularactofvandalismin2012(seeboxabove).

MontecarloTusDOCrw★★(w)DYA.White,andincreasinglyred,wineareanrLucca.Producersincl:Buonamico,Carmignani,LaTorre,Montechiari,FattoriadelTeso.

MontecuccoTusSANGIOVESE-basedTUSCANDOCbetweenMonteAmiataandGrosseto,increasinglytrendyasMONTALCINOlandpricesineluctablyrise.AsMontecuccoSangioveseitisDOCG.LookforCASTELLODIPOTENTINO(Sacromonte,Piropo),alsoBegnardi,CiacciPiccolomini,COLLIMassari,FattoriadiMontecuccoandVillaPatrizia.MuchinvestmentbythelikesofFOLONARI,MASI,Pertimali,RiecineandTalenti.

MontefalcoSagrantinoUmbDOCGrdr(sw)★★★→★★★★Super-tannic,powerful,long-lastingwines,untilrecentlythoughtpotentiallygreat.Nowdoubts;it’sdifficulttotamethephenolicswithoutdenaturingthewine.TraditionalbittersweetPASSITOversionmaybebetter-suitedtothegrape,thoughhardertosell.Gd:Adanti,Antonelli,PaoloBea,Benincasa,CAPRAI,

Colpetrone,LUNGAROTTI,Tabarrini,Terrede’Trinci.Montepulcianod’AbruzzoAbDOCrp★★→★★★(r)0607

08091011(12)Gd-value,full-flavouredredandzesty,savourypink(CERASUOLO)fromgrapesofthisname.AbruzziisAdriaticregioneastofRome.Dominatedbyco-ops;gdonesincludeCitra,Miglianico,Roxan,Tollo.Someexcellentprivates,inclCornacchia,Contesa,Illuminati,Marramiero,Masciarelli,ContucciPonno,Pepe,LaValentina,VALENTINI,Zaccagnini.NottobeconfusedwithTuscantownVINONOBILEDIMONTEPULCIANOcomesfrom.

MonteregioTusDOCnrMassaMarittimainMAREMMA,gdSANGIOVESEandCABSAUV(r)andVERMENTINO(w)winesfromeg.MORISFARMS,TenutadelFontino.Big-nameinvestors(ANTINORI,BELLAVISTA,EricdeRothschildofChâteauLafite,ZONIN)havebeenattractedbyrelativelylowlandprices,buttheDOChasyettomakeitsmarketmark.

MonteSchiavoMar★★→★★★Switched-on,medium-sizeproducerofVERDICCHIOandMONTEPULCIANO-basedwinesofvariousqualities,ownedbyworld’slargestmanufacturerofolive-oilprocessingequipment,Pieralisi.

MontescudaioTusDOCrw★★ModestDOCbetweenPisaandLivorno;bestareSANGIOVESEorSangiovese/CABSAUVblends.TryMerlini,POGGIOGagliardo,LaRegola,Sorbaiano.

ScrewupUntilrecently,allDOCGandmanyDOCwineswerebarredfrombeingbottledunderscrewcap.Thishasnowchanged–partially.Freedomtousescrewcapswillhenceforwardbesubjecttotheblessingofrelevantconsortia.JusthowbyzantinethedecisionsoftheseaugustbodiescanbeisencapsulatedbytheSOAVEconsortium’spermissiontoextendthescrewcappingprivilegeto

SoaveCLASSICOandSoaveSUPERIORE,butnotSoaveClassicoSuperiore.

MontevertineTus★★★★Raddaestate.Non-DOCGbutclassicCHIANTI-stylewines.IGTLePergoleTorteafine,sometimesgreatexampleofpure,long-ageingSANGIOVESE.

MontevetranoCam★★★IconicCAMPANIAAZIENDA,winesupervisedbyconsultantRiccardoCotarella.SuperbIGTMontevetrano(CABSAUV,MERLOT,AGLIANICO).

MorellinodiScansanoTusDOCGr★→★★★0607080910(11)SANGIOVESEredfromtheMAREMMA.Usedtoberelativelylightandsimple,now,sometimesregrettably,gainingweightandsubstance,perhapstojustifyitsloftyDOCGstatus.Best:Belguardo,Mantellasi,MORISFARMS,Podere414,POGGIOArgentiera,LEPUPILLE,TerrediTalamo,VignaiolidelMorellino

diScansanoMorisFarmsTus★★★Oneofthefirstofthenew-ageproducers

ofTUSCANY’sMAREMMA,withMONTEREGIOandMorellinodiScansanoDOCs,plusVERMENTINOIGT.TopcruisthenowiconicIGTAvvoltore,arichSANGIOVESE/CABSAUV/SYRAHblend.ButtrythebasicMORELLINO.

Moscatod’AstiPieDOCGwswsp★★→★★★DYASimilartoDOCGASTI,butusuallybettergrapes,loweralcohol,sweeter,fruitier,oftenfromsmallproducers.BestDOCGMOSCATO:L’Armangia,BERA,BRAIDA,Ca’d’Gal,CascinaFonda,CascinaPiand’Oro,Caudrina,IlFalchetto,FortetodellaLuja,MarchesidiGrésy,Icardi,Isolabella,Manfredi/Patrizi,Marino,LaMorandina,MarcoNegri,ElioPerrone,Rivetti,Saracco,Scagliola,VAJRA,Vietti,VignaiolidiSanteStefano.

MuriGriesT-AA★★→★★★Thismonastery,intheBolzanosuburbofGries,famousforLAGREIN,isatraditionalandstilltop

producerofALTOADIGEDOC.EspcruAbtei-Muri.NalsMargreidT-AA★★→★★★Small,quality-orientedco-op

makingmtn-freshwhites(espPINOTBIANCOSirmian)fromtwoseparatecommunesofALTOADIGE.

Nebbiolod’AlbaPieDOCrdr★★→★★★060708091011(12)SometimesaworthyreplacementforBAROLO/BARBARESCO,gdexamples:PIOCESARE,GIACOSA,SANDRONEandVAJRA.Sometimesfreshandunoaked,moreofaquaffingwine,eg.Boglietti.

Negrar,CantinaVen★★→★★★AkaCSVALPOLICELLA.UnderoenologistDanieleAccordini,majorproducerofhigh-qualityValpolicella,RIPASSO,AMARONEfromgrapessourcedinvariouspartsoftheCLASSICOzone.LookforthebrandnameDominiVeneti.

Nipozzano,CastellodiTus★★★FRESCOBALDIestateinRÚFINAeastofFlorencemakingexcellentCHIANTIRúfinaRISERVAs

Nipozzanoand,esp,Montesodi.NittardiTus★★→★★★Reliablesourceofquality,modern

CHIANTICLASSICOproducedbyGermanproprietorPeterFemfertwithhelpfromoenologistCarloFerrini.

NozzoleTus★★→★★★FamousestateownedbyAmbrogioandGiovanniFOLONARI,inheartofCHIANTICLASSICO,northofGreve.V.gdChiantiClassicoNozzoleandexcellentCABSAUVPareto.

NuragusdiCagliariSarDOCw★★DYA.Lively,uncomplicatedSARDINIANwinefromNuragusgrape.

OasidegliAngeliMarBenchmarkall-MONTEPULCIANOwinesfromsmallproducerinsouthernMarches;lushandmouthfilling.

OcchiodiPerniceTusAtypeofVINSANTOmadepredominantlyfromblackgrapes,mainlySANGIOVESE.AVIGNONESI’sisdefinitive.AlsoanobscureblackvarietyfoundinRÚFINAandelsewhere.

OdderoPie★★→★★★TraditionalistLaMorraestateforgdtoexcellentBAROLO(BrunateandVillero)andBARBARESCO(Gallina)crus,plusotherseriouswinesfromPIEDMONT.

OltrepòPaveseLomDOCrwdrswsp★→★★★MultiDOC,incnumerousvarietalandblendedwinesfromPaviaprovince,mostlydrunkinMilan.Sometimesv.gdPINOTNandSPUMANTE.Gdgrowers:Anteo,Barbacarlo,CasaRe,CastellodiCigognola,CSCasteggio,LeFracce,Frecciarossa,Monsupello,Mazzolino,RuizdeCardenas,Travaglino,LaVersaco-op.

OrnellaiaTus★★→★★★★0104’0506’07’080910(11)(12)FamousestatenrBOLGHERIfoundedbyLodovicoANTINORI,whosoldtoFRESCOBALDI/Mondaviconsortium,nowownedsolelybyFrescobaldi.TopwinesareofBordeauxgrapesandmethod:BOLGHERIDOCOrnellaia,IGTMasseto(MERLOT).BolgheriDOCLeSerreNuoveandIGTLeVoltealsogd.

OrvietoUmbDOCwdrsws/sw★→★★★DYATheclassic

Umbrianwhite,fromancientEtruscanhilltopcity.WinescomparabletoVouvrayfromtufaceoussoil.Seccoversionmostpopulartoday,amabileismoretraditional.Sweetversionsfromnoblerot(muffanobile)grapescanbesuperb,eg.Barberani’sCalcaia.Othergdproducers:Bigi,Cardeto,CASTELLODELLASALA,DecugnanodeiBarbi,LaCarraia,Palazzone.

Pacenti,SiroTus★★★Modern-styleBRUNELLOandROSSODIMONTALCINOfromasmall,caringproducer.

PagadebitdiRomagnaE-RDOCw★→★★DYA.Sonamedbecauseonce,apparently,it“paidthebills”.Mustbe85%BombinoBianco.Canbefreshandbright,rarelycomplex.Gd:Celli(CampidiFratta),Campodelsole(SanPascasio).

PalariSeeFARO.PantelleriaSiWindswept,black-earth(volcanic)SICILIANislandoff

theTunisiancoast,notedforsuperbMOSCATOd’Alessandriastickies.PASSITOversionsareparticularlydenseandintense.

Lookfor:Abraxas,Colosi,DEBARTOLI,DONNAFUGATA,Murana.Pasqua,FratelliVen★→★★Amassiveproducerandbottlerof

Veronawines:VALPOLICELLA,AMARONE,SOAVE.AlsoBARDOLINO,RECIOTO.

PassitoOneofItaly’smostancientandmostcharacteristicwinestyles,fromgrapeshungup,orspreadontraystodry,brieflyundertheharvestsun(inthesouth)oroveraperiodofweeksormonthsintheairyupperpartsofthewinery–aprocesscalledappassimento.Best-knownversions:VINSANTO(TUSCANY);VALPOLICELLA/SOAVE,AMARONE/RECIOTO(Veneto).SeealsoMONTEFALCO,ORVIETO,TORCOLATO,VALLONE.

PaternosterBas★★→★★★Notaprayerbutaproducerofheavenly(well,prettygd)AGLIANICODELVULTURE,espDonAnselmo.

PecorinoAb★★→★★★Notcheesebutcomplexandhighlydrinkable(andage-worthy)drywhitefrom,untilrecently,anr-

extinctvarietynativetoAbruzzo.Gdproducers:CONTESA,Farnese,FrancoPasetti,Illuminati,SanLorenzo,Terred’Aligi,Tiberio.

PiaggiaTus★★★OutstandingproducerofCARMIGNANORISERVA,SassoandsuperbCABFRPoggiodeiColli,aswellasofacoupleofSANGIOVESEwines,PietraneraandVitidell’Erta.

Piandell’Orino★★★AcouplefromALTOADIGErunthissmallMONTALCINOestate.OenologisthusbandJanErbachseestheBRUNELLOisbothseductiveandtechnicallyperfect,andtheRossoisnearlyasgd.

PiaveVenDOCrw★→★★(r)08091011(12)(w)DYA.VolumeDOConplainsnorthwestofVeniceforbudgetvarietals.CABSAUV,MERLOTandRabosoredscanallagemoderately.Above-averageexamplesfromLoredanGasparini,Molon,VillaSandi.

PicolitF-VGDOCGwsws/sw★★→★★★0607080910(12).

Quasi-mythicalsweetwhitefromCOLLIORIENTALIDELFRIULI,mightdisappointthosewhocana)finditandb)affordit.GdfromLIVIOFELLUGA,Meroi,Perusini,Specogna,VILLARUSSIZ,Vinaedell’Abbazia.

Piedmont/PiemonteWithTUSCANY,themostimportantItalianregionfortopquality,inAlpinefoothills.Turinisthecapital,ASTIandALBAthewinecentres.NoIGTSallowed;PiemonteDOCislowestdenomination,coveringbasicreds,whites,SPUMANTEsandFRIZZANTEs.Grapesincl:NEBBIOLO,BARBERA,BONARDA,Brachetto,CORTESE,DOLCETTO,GRIGNOLINO,CHARD,MOSCATO.SeealsoBARBARESCO,BAROLO,GATTINARA,ROERO.

PieropanVen★★★NinoPieropanistheveteranqualityleaderofSOAVE,aDOCnowleavingitscynicalpastbehind.CruLaRoccaisstilltheultimateSoave,andCalvarino,indeedthescrewcappedClassico,arenotfarbehind.

PietracupaCam★★★SabinoLoffredoisafterperfection.

Mainlyknownforwhites(GRECODITUFOandFIANOdiAvellino).HisexcellentTAURASIisevenbetter.

PievediSantaRestitutaPie★★★GAJAestateforaPIEDMONTESEinterpretationofBRUNELLODIMONTALCINOundernamesSugarilleandRennina.

PioCesarePie★★→★★★VeteranALBAproducer,offersBAROLOandBARBARESCOinbothmodern(barrique)andtraditional(large-cask-aged)versions.AlsotheAlbarange,inclwhites(eg.GAVI).ParticularlygdNEBBIOLOD’ALBA,alittleBaroloathalftheprice.

PlanetaSi★★→★★★LeadingSICILIANestatewith400hav’ydinvariouspartsoftheisland,makingwinesfromnativeandimportedvarietiesplusblendsthereof.LaSegretaisbrandofgd-valuewhite(Grecanico,CHARD,VIOGNIER,FIANO)andred(NEROD’AVOLA,MERLOT,SYRAH).

PodereSmallTuscanfarm,oncepartofabigestate.

ThebestofProseccoPROSECCO(nowjustawine,remember:nolongeragrape)continuestoboominthemarket,butforhowlong?Priceshavemovedupsharply,whichisniceforthegrowers,butevenifthereweresomethingtocelebratewiththisItalianversionofpoorman’sChampagne,asharpdownturnispredictedwhenthenewv’yds,plantedintheirthousandsofhafollowingthelawchange,comeonstreamwiththeircheapandshoddyproduct.Thereremainagdfewreliableproducers,however,incl:Adami,Biancavigna,BISOL,Bortolin,Canevel,CARPENÈ-MALVOLTI,CaseBianche,ColSalice,LeColture,ColVetoraz,NinoFranco,Gregoletto,LaRivadeiFrati,Ruggeri,Vignarosa,Zardetto.

PoggioMeans“hill”inTuscandialect.Poggionemeans“bighill”.

PoggioAnticoTus★★★Admirablyconsistent,sometimesinspiredproducerofMONTALCINO.BasicBRUNELLOisagedintraditionalBOTTE.AlteroisBrunelloagedinbarriques.RISERVAblendsthetwo.

PoggiodiSotto★★★★SmallMONTALCINOestatebutaqualitygiantoftheillustriousdenomination.OutstandingBRUNELLOandRosso;traditionalcharacterwithanidiosyncratictwist.Estatesoldnow,butpursuingexistinglines.

Poggione,TenutaIlTus★★★AmarkerforfineBRUNELLO,espconsideringlargevolume;alsov.gdROSSODIMONTALCINO.AdministeredfortheFranceschifamilybytheexcellentFabrizioBindocci.

PoggiopianoTus★★→★★★Easy-drinkingyetseriousCHIANTIsfromSanCasciano;ablendofoldandnewtechniques.PolishedCHIANTICLASSICOandRISERVATradizione.ChiantisarepureSANGIOVESE,butRossodiSerainclupto15%ofColorino

grape.PoggioScaletteTus★★★Oenologist’sfamily’sfineestate;

above-averageCHIANTICLASSICOandBordeaux-blendCapogatto.Winemaker’sprideis100%SANGIOVESEIlCarbonaione;needsseveralyrsbottleage.

PolizianoTus★★★MONTEPULCIANOestateofFedericoCarletti.SuperiorVINONOBILE(espAsinone)andgdIGTLeStanze(CABSAUV/MERLOT).

PominoTusDOCrw★★★(r)060708091011(12)AnappendageofRÚFINA,withfineredandwhiteblends(espIlBenefizio).VirtuallyaFRESCOBALDIexclusivity.

Potentino,CastellodiTus★★EnglisheccentricCharlotteHortontakesonthemightofwhatshecalls“Mort-alcino”atthismedievalredoubtonMonteAmiata.V.gdSANGIOVESESacromonte;betterPINOTNPiropoandLyncurio(blush).

PràVen★★★LeadingSOAVECLASSICOproducer,espcrusMonte

GrandeandStaforte,thelattersixmthsinsteeltanksonleeswithmechanicalbâtonnage.NowalsoexcellentVALPOLICELLASwinesunderthenameMorandina.

ProduttoridelBarbarescoPie★★★OneofItaly’searliestco-ops,consideredbysomethebest,ifnotindeedbestintheworld.AldoVaccaandhisteammakeexcellenttraditional,straightBARBARESCOaswellascrusAsili,Montefico,Montestefano,Ovello,Pora,RioSordo.

ProseccoVenDOC(G)wsp★→★★DYA.Italy’sfavouritefizz.Newlaws,designedtoprotectthename,mean“Prosecco”isnolongeragrapebutonlyawinederivedfromtheGLERAgrapegrowninspecifiedDOC/DOCGzones(IGTnolongerpermitted)oftheVenetoandFRIULI-VENEZIAGIULIA.Maybestill,SPUMANTEorFRIZZANTE.Seealsoboxabove.

Prunotto,AlfredoPie★★★→★★★★TraditionalALBAcompanymodernizedbyANTINORIin1990s,runbyPiero’s

daughterAlbiera.V.gdBARBARESCO(BricTurot),BAROLO(Bussia),NEBBIOLO(Occhetti),BARBERAd’ALBA(PianRomualdo),Barberad’ASTI(Costamiole)andMONFERRATORosso(Mompertone,Barbera/SYRAHblend).

PugliaApSeeAPULIA.QuerciabellaTus★★★★TopCHIANTICLASSICOestatewithIGT

crusCamartina(SANGIOVESE/CABSAUV)andbarrel-fermentedCHARD/PINOTBLBatàr.PurchasesinRaddaandMAREMMAprovidemoregrapesforChiantiClassicoandnewMongrana(Sangiovese,plusCabSauvandMERLOT),respectively.

Quintarelli,GiuseppeVen★★★★Arch-traditionalist,artisanalproducerofsublimeVALPOLICELLA,RECIOTOandAMARONE.Bepidied2012;daughterandchildrenaretakingover,alteringnothing.

Rampolla,CastellodeiTus★★★CABSAUV-lovingestateinPanzano,CHIANTICLASSICO,topwinesbeingIGTsSammarcoand

d’Alceo.Plus,someinternational-styleChiantiClassico.Ratti,Renato★★→★★★IconicBAROLOestate,founder’sson

Pietrotakingover.Modern-stylewinesofabbreviatedmacerationbutplentyofsubstance,espBarolosRocchedell’AnnunziataandConca.

TryGrapevarieties.

ReciotodellaValpolicellaVenDOCGrsw(sp)★★★→★★★★FinallyaDOCG,thismosthistoricofallItalianwines(writtentestimonyfromsixth-centuryAD)isuniqueandpotentiallystunning,withsumptuouscherry-chocolatefruitiness.

ReciotodiSoaveVenDOCGwsw(sp)★★★→★★★★SOAVEfromhalf-driedgrapes:sweet,fruity,slightlyalmondy;sweetnessiscutbyhighacidity.OutstandingfromANSELMI,COFFELE,Gini,PIEROPAN,Tamellini,oftenv.gdfromCa’Rugate,

PASQUA,PRÀ,Suavia,Trabuchi.AswithRECIOTODELLAVALPOLICELLAthevintageislessimportantthantheprocess.

Refosco(dalPeduncoloRosso)F-VG★★08091011(12)Gutsyredofrusticstyle.Bestfrom:COLLIORIENTALIDOC,Moschioni,LeVignediZamo,VolpiPasini;gdfromLIVIOFELLUGA,MianiandfromDorigo,RonchidiManzano,Venica,Ca’BolaniandDenisMontanarainAquileiaDOC.

RegalealiSiSeeTASCAD’ALMERITA.RibollaF-VGColliOrientalidelFriuliandCollioDOCw

★→★★DYA.Characterfulacidicnortheasternwhite,thebestfromCOLLIO.Topestates:IICarpino,LaCastellada,Damijan,Fliegl,GRAVNER,Primosic,Radikon,Tercic.

RicasoliTusHistoricTuscanfamily,19th-centuryproposersofCHIANTIblend.ThemainbranchoccupiesthemedievalCastellodiBROLIO.RelatedRicasolisownCastellodiCacchianoandRoccadiMontegrossi.

RinaldiGiuseppePie★★★BeppeRinaldiisanarch-traditionalistBAROLOpersonalitywhosecantinaontheoutskirtsofthetownofBaroloisnotalwaysamodelofhygiene.CharacterfulBarolosinclcrusBrunate-LeCosteandCannubiSanLorenzo–Ravera.

RipassoVenSeeVALPOLICELLARIPASSO.RiservaWineagedforastatutoryperiod,usuallyincasksor

barrels.RiveraAp★★ReliablewinemakersatAndriainCASTELDEL

MONTEDOC,bestexamplebeingRISERVAIlFalcone.V.gdNerodiTroia-basedPuerApuliae.

Rivetti,Giorgio(LaSpinetta)Pie★★★FineMOSCATOD’ASTI,excellentBARBERA,interestingIGTPin,seriesofsuper-concentrated,oakyBARBARESCOs.Nowownerofv’ydsbothintheBAROLOandtheCHIANTICOLLIPisaneDOCGs.RecentlyacquiredthetraditionalSPUMANTEhouse,Contratto.

RizziPie★★→★★★Thenamereferstothesub-areaofTreiso,communeofBARBARESCO,wheretheDellapianafamilylookafter35haofv’yd.TopcruisBarbarescoPajore.FondettaandBoitoalsogd,seemlightbutgodeep.

Rocca,BrunoPie★★★Admirablemodern-styleBARBARESCO(Rabajà)andotherALBAwines,alsov.fineBARBERAd’ASTI.

RoccaAlbino★★★ThelateAlbinoRoccawasaforemostproducerofelegant,sophisticatedBARBARESCO.TheAZIENDAcontinueswithtopcrusVignetoLoretoandBrichRonchi.

RoeroPieDOCGr★★→★★★010406’07080910(11)(12)Serious,occasionallyBAROLO-levelNEBBIOLOsfromtheLANGHEhillsacrossriverTanarofromALBA.Best:Almondo,Buganza,Ca’Rossa,CascinaChicco,Correggia,Funtanin,Malvirà,Monchiero-Carbone,Morra,Pace,Pioiero,Taliano,ValdiPrete.SeealsoARNEIS.

RomaLatDOCrecentlyinventedtoexploitthefameoftheEternal

City.BiancoisLatingrapes(MALVASIA,BelloneandBombino),RossoisMONTEPULCIANOandCesanese.Bothareallowedacertaininternationalinput.Sofartherearenoexcitingexponents.

RoncoTermforahillsidev’ydinnortheastItaly,espFRIULI-VENEZIAGIULIA.

RosatoThegeneralItaliannameforrosé.OtherroséwinenamesinclCHIARETTO,fromLakeGARDA;CERASUOLO,fromAbruzzo;Kretzer,fromALTOADIGE.

RossoConeroMarDOCGr★★→★★★06’070809(11)(12)Akaplain“Conero”.SomeofItaly’sbestMONTEPULCIANO(thegrape,thatis).Recommendedare:GAROFOLI’sGrossoAgontano,Moroder’sDorico,MONTESCHIAVO’sAdeodato,TERRECORTESIMONCARO’sNeroneandVignetidelParco,LeTerrazze’sSassiNeriandVisionsofJ.

RossodiMontalcinoTusDOCr★★→★★★06’07’080910

11(12)DOCforearlier-maturingwinesfromBRUNELLOgrapes,fromyoungerorlesserv’ydsites.Recentlyanattemptbyafewbigproducerstoallow“international”grapesintotheblendwasdefeated,butthey’lltryagain.

RossodiMontefalcoUmbDOCr★★→★★★07080910(11)(12)SANGIOVESE/SAGRANTINOblend,oftenwithasplashofsofteningMERLOT.Forproducers,seeMONTEFALCOSAGRANTINO.

RossodiMontepulcianoTusDOCr★★08091011(12)JuniorversionofVINONOBILEDIMONTEPULCIANO,growerssimilar.SeenmuchlessthanROSSODIMONTALCINO,probablybecauseofconfusionwithMONTEPULCIANOD’ABRUZZO,withwhichithasnothingincommon.

RossoPicenoMarDOCr★0607080910(11)GluggableMONTEPULCIANO/SANGIOVESEblendfromsouthernhalfofMarches;SUPERIOREfromrestrictedclassiczonenrAscoli,muchimprovedinrecentyrsandv.gdvalue.Best:Aurora,

Boccadigabbia,BUCCI,FontedellaLuna,Montecappone,MONTESCHIAVO,SaladiniPilastri,TERRECORTESIMONCARO,VelenosiErcole,Villamagna.

RuchèdiCastagnoleMonferratoPieDOCGr★★DYA.AnintensepaleredofquintessentiallyPIEDMONTESEstyle:sour-berryfruit,sharpacid,firmtannins.Callsforabitofpractice.Gd:PierfrancescoGatto.

RuffinoTus★→★★★ThevenerableCHIANTIfirmofRuffino,inhandsofFOLONARIfamilyfor100yrs,splitapartafewyearsago.BothbranchesarebusyacquiringnewTUSCANestates.Atlastcounttheywereuptoseven,ofwhichthreeareinCHIANTICLASSICO,inclSantedame(topwineRomitorio),oneinMONTALCINO(GrepponeMazzi)andoneinMONTEPULCIANO(LodolaNuova).TheyalsoownBorgoConventiinFRIULI.

ChiantiClassico’sblackroosterstandsforhonestyinChina.

Andgoodfortune,andbossiness.

RúfinaTus★★★SmallbutimportantnorthernsubregionofCHIANTI,eastofFlorence,hillyandcool.Bestwines:Basciano,CASTELLODINIPOZZANO(FRESCOBALDI),CastellodelTrebbio,Colognole,Frascole,Lavacchio,SELVAPIANA,TenutaBossi,Travignoli.VilladiVetrice/Gratidoesoldvintages,sometimesaged20yrs+inbarrelsorvats.

Sala,CastellodellaUmb★★→★★★ANTINORIestateatORVIETO.TopwineissplendidCervarodellaSala,oak-agedCHARD/GRECHETTO.BramitodelCervoislesserbutstillv.gd,samegrapes.MuffatodellaSalawaspioneerexampleofanItalianbotrytisdessertwine.

SalentoApFlatsouthernpeninsulaattipofItaly’sheel;seemsunlikelyforqualitygrapes,butdeepsemi-fertilesoils,oldAlberellovinesandaboveallconstantseabreezes,coolingand

clearingparasites,combinetoproduceremarkableredandroséwinesfromNEGROAMAROandPRIMITIVOgrapes.SeealsoAPULIAandSALICESALENTINO.

SaliceSalentinoApDOCr★★→★★★060708(10)(11)Best-knownofSALENTO’smany(toomany)NEGROAMARO-basedDOCs,madefamousbyveteranfirmslikeLeonedeCastris,Candido,Taurino,ApollonioandVALLONE.RISERVAafter2yrs.

Salvioni★★★Smallhigh-qualityoperationoftheirrepressibleGiulioSalvioni.BRUNELLOandROSSOdiMONTALCINOamongthev.bestavailable,worththenot-inconsiderableprice.

TheriseofwhiteItaly’swhiteshavetraditionallytakenabackseattothereds,butarecenttastinghadonenotedwinejournalistraving:“Believeme,thebestwinesareasgdasanythinginFrance.”

Starsofthetastingincludewinesofamixofvarietiesfromallpartsofthepeninsula,inclthenorthwest(Orsolani’sERBALUCEDICALUSOLaRustia),thenorth-centre(TERLANO’sPINOTBIANCORISERVAVorberg),thenortheast(LISNERIS’PINOTGRIGIOGris),thecentre(VALENTINI’sTREBBIANOD’ABRUZZO),andsouth(PietracupaGRECODITUFO),notexcludingacouplefromSICILY(BENANTI’sETNABiancoSUPERIOREPietramarinaandthetasting’soutrightwinner,GrappolidelGrillo!fromtheMarcodeBartoliwineryinMARSALA.

Sandrone,LucianoPie★★★Exponentofmodern-styleALBAwineswithdeep,concentratedBAROLOCannubiBoschisandLeVigne,DOLCETTO,BARBERAd’AlbaandNEBBIOLOd’Alba.

SanFeliceTus★★→★★★ImportanthistoricTUSCANgrower,ownedbyGruppoAllianz.FineCHIANTICLASSICOandRISERVAPOGGIORossofromestateinCastelnuovoBerardenga.Vitiarium

isanexperimentalv’ydforobscurevarieties,theexcellentPugnitello(IGTfromthatgrape)afirstresult.Gd,too:IGTVigorello(firstSUPERTUSCAN,from1968)andBRUNELLODIMONTALCINOCampogiovanni.

SanGimignanoTusTourist-overrunTUSCANtownfamousforitstowersanddrywhiteVERNACCIADISANGIMIGNANODOCG,oftenoverpriced,occasionallyconvincingasawineifnotasavindeterroir.SomegdSANGIOVESE-basedredsunderDOCSanGimignano.Producersincl:FALCHINI,Cesani,GuicciardiniStrozza,Montenidoli,Mormoraia,IlPalagione,Panizzi,PoderadelParadiso,Pietrafitta,Pietrasereno,LaRampadiFugnano.

SangiovesediRomagnaMarDOCr★★→★★★Oftenwell-made,evenclassyvarietalredfromwhatmaybethebirthplaceofSANGIOVESE.GdproducersinclCesari,DreiDonà,Paradiso,SanPatrignano,TreMonti,Trere(E-RDOC),ZERBINA.SeekalsoIGTRONCOdelleGinestre,RoncodeiCiliegifromCASTELLUCCIO.

SanGiustoaRentennanoTus★★★→★★★★TopCHIANTICLASSICOestateownedbycousinsofRICASOLI.OutstandingSANGIOVESEIGTPercarloandsublimeVINSANTO(VinSanGiusto).

SanGuido,TenutaTusSeeSASSICAIA.SanLeonardoT-AA★★★TopTRENTINOestateofMarchesi

GuerrieriGonzaga,consultantCarloFerrini.MainwineisBordeauxblendSanLeonardo,”theSASSICAIAofthenorth”.Alsov.promisingMERLOTVillaGresti,SAUVBLlessgd.

SanMicheleAppianoT-AATopALTOADIGEco-op,espforwhites.LookforPINOTBIANCOSchulthauserandSanctValentin(★★★)selections:CHARD,PINOTGR,SAUVBL,CABSAUV,PINOTN,GEWURZ.

SannioCamDOCrpwsp★→★★★(w)DYA.WinesoftheSamnitesofinland,uplandCAMPANIA:variousstyles,frommainlyCampanianvarieties.LaGUARDIENSEisanotable

producer.SanPatrignanoE-R★★Drugrehabcolonywith100hav’yd.

Wines(oenologistRiccardoCotarella),v.professionallymadeininternationalstyles.MorelocalcharacterinSANGIOVESEsAviandmoremodestAulentethaninBordeaux-inspiredMontepiroloandNoi.

SantadiSar★★★SARDINIA’s,andoneofItaly’s,bestco-ops,espforCARIGNANO-basedredsTerreBrune,GrottaRossaandRoccaRubia(allDOCCARIGNANODELSULCIS).AlsowhitesVermentinoVillaSolaisandVilladiChiesa(VERMENTINO/CHARD).

SantaMaddalena/St-MagdalenerT-AADOCr★→★★DYA.Teutonic-styleredfromSCHIAVAgrapesfromv.steepslopesbehindALTOADIGEcapitalBolzano.Gdreputation,butsomehowyouthinkitoughttobebetter.Notableproducers:CSSt-Magdalena(HuckamBach),Gojer,JosephusMayr,HansRottensteiner(Premstallerhof),HeinrichRottensteiner.

Sant’AntimoTusDOCrwsw★★→★★★Catch-allDOCfor(almost)everythinginMONTALCINOzonethatisn’tBRUNELLODOCGorRossoDOC.Sant’AntimoisaRomanesqueabbey.

Sardinia/SardegnaTheMed’s2nd-biggestislandproducesmuchdecentandsomev.gdwine,eg.TurrigafromARGIOLAS,ArbeskiaandDulefromGabbas,VERMENTINOofCAPICHERA,CANNONAURISERVAsofJerzuandLoi,VermentinoandCannonaufromDettoriandtheamazingsherryishVERNACCIAofCONTINI.BestDOCs:VermentinodiGallura(eg.CanaylifromCantinaGallura)andCARIGNANODELSULCIS(TerreBruneandRoccaRubiafromSANTADI).

SartarelliMar★★★OneoftopVERDICCHIODEICASTELLIDIJESIproducers(Tralivio);outstanding,rareVerdicchioVENDEMMIATardiva(ContradaBalciana).

SassicaiaTusDOCr★★★★85’88’90’95’9798’9901’04’050607’080910(11)(12)Italy’ssolesingle-v’ydDOC

(BOLGHERI),aCAB(SAUVandFR)madeonFirstGrowthlinesbyMarcheseIncisadellaRocchettaatTENUTASANGUIDOinBolgheri.Moreelegantthanlush,madeforage–andoftenboughtforinvestment,buthugelyinfluentialingivingItalyatop-qualityimage.

Satta,MicheleTus★★★VirtuallytheonlyBOLGHERIgrowertosucceedwith100%SANGIOVESEwine(Cavaliere).AlsoBolgheriDOCredblendsPiastraiaandSUPERIOREICastagni.

Scavino,PaoloPie★★★ModernistBAROLOproducerofCastiglioneFalletto,espcrusRocchedell’Annunziata,BricdelFiasc,CannubiandCarobric.GdBARBERALANGHECorale.

SchiavaAltoAdigeT-AADOCr★DYA.TraditionallightredpopularinTeutonicmarketsfromthemostprevalentredgrapeofALTOADIGE,locallycalledVernatsch.OtherSchiavaDOCsinclLagodiCaldaro,SANTAMADDALENA,COLLIdiBolzano.

Schiopetto,MarioF-VG★★★→★★★★Legendarylate

COLLIOpioneerwithspaciousmodernwinery.V.gdDOCSAUVBL,PinotBl,FRIULANOandIGTblendBlancdesRosis,etc.

SciacchetràLigSeeCINQUETERRE.Sella&MoscaSar★★MajorSARDINIANgrowerandmerchant

withv.pleasantwhiteTorbato(espTerreBianche)andlight,fruityVERMENTINOCalaViola(DYA).GdAlgheroDOCMarchesediVillamarina(CABSAUV)andTancaFarrà(CANNONAU/CabSauv).AlsointerestingPort-likeAngheluRuju.

SelvapianaTus★★★WithpossibleexceptionofmorefamousNIPOZZANOestateofFRESCOBALDI,theno1CHIANTIRÚFINAestate.Bestwines:RISERVABucerchialeandIGTFornace,butevenbasicChiantiRúfinaisatreat.AlsofineredPOMINOandPetrognano.

Settesoli,CSSi★→★★Co-opwithnearly7,000ha,runbyPLANETAfamilyandgivingSICILYagdnamewithreliable,gd-valuevarietals(Nerod’Avola,SYRAH,MERLOT,CABSAUV,

CHARD,Gracanico,VIOGNIERandblends)undertheMandrarossalabel.

Sforzato/SfursatLom★★★AMARONE-likedried-grapeNEBBIOLOfromVALTELLINAinextremenorthofLombardyonSwissborder.Agesbeautifully.

SicilyTheMed’slargestisland,modernsourceofexcitingoriginalwinesandvalue.Bothnativegrapes(NEROD’AVOLA,NERELLOMASCALESE,Frappato,INZOLIA,Grecanico,Grillo)andinternationals.IGTSiciliaisgivingwaytoDOCSicilia,theimportantwordbeing“Sicilia”.Otherwise,variousobscureDOCs.LookforCeusi,Colosi,COS,DEBARTOLI,DONNAFUGATA,DUCADISALAPARUTA,Fazio,Firriato,Foraci,Gulfi-Ramada,Morgante,Murana,Pellegrino,PLANETA,Rapitalà,SantaAnastasia,SETTESOLI,Spadafora,TASCAD’ALMERITA.SeealsoETNA.

SizzanoPieSeeGATTINARA.

SoaveVenDOCw(sw)★→★★★DYA.Famous,stillunderratedVeronese.FromtheCLASSICOzonecanbeintense,mineral,v.fineandquitelong-lived.WhenlabelledSUPERIOREisDOCG,butbestClassicoproducersshunthe“honour”,sticktoDOC.SweetRECIOTOcanbesuperb.Best:CantinadelCastello,LaCappuccina,Ca’Rugate,COFFELE,Fattori,Gini,GUERRIERIRIZZARDI,Inama,Montetondo,PIEROPAN,Portinari,PRÀ,Suavia,Tamellini,TEDESCHI.

SolaiaTusr★★★★85’90’95’97’99’01040607080910(11)(12)PotentiallymagnificentifsomewhatmassiveCABSAUV/SANGIOVESEblendbyANTINORI,madetothehighestBordeauxspecs;needsyrsoflayingdown.

SorìPieTermforahighsouth-,southeast-,orsouthwest-orientedsiteinPIEDMONT.

SovanaTusMAREMMADOC;redswithpromise;inlandnrEtruscanPitigliano.LookforSANGIOVESE,CiliegiolofromTenuta

Roccaccia,Pitigliano,Ripa,Sassotondo,MALBECfromANTINORI.Speri★★★QualityVALPOLICELLAfamilyestatewithsitessuchas

theoutstandingMonteSant’Urbano.Unpretentious,traditional-styleCLASSICOSUPERIORE,AMARONEandRECIOTO.Nofrills,justgdwine.

SpumanteSparkling.WhatusedtobecalledASTISpumanteisnowjustAsti.

SüdtirolT-AAThelocalnameofGerman-speakingSouthTyrolALTOADIGE.

SuperioreWinewithmoreageingthannormalDOCand0.5–1%morealcohol.Mayindicatearestrictedproductionzone,eg.ROSSOPICENOSuperiore.

SuperTuscanTusSeeIntroduction.TamelliniVen★★→★★★Veterangrowerfamily,making

SOAVEsincethe1990s.Alwaysreliable,sometimesexceptional:straightSoaveCLASSICOleBinediCostiolaandRECIOTODI

SOAVE.

TryGrapevarieties.

Tascad’AlmeritaSi★★★NewgenerationofTascad’Almeritasrunsthehistoric,stillprestigiousestatewhichkepttheflagofqualityflyingforSICILYinthedarkyrs.High-altitudev’yds;balancedIGTwinesunderitsoldRegalealilabel,CHARDandCABSAUVgd,butthestar,asever,isNEROD’AVOLA-basedRossodelConte.

TaurasiCamDOCGr★★★01040607080910(11)(12)Thesouth’sanswertothenorth’sBAROLOandthecentre’sBRUNELLO,needscarefulhandlingandlongageing.TherearefriendlierversionsofAGLIANICObutnonesopotentiallycomplex,demandingandultimatelyrewarding.MadefamousbyMASTROBERARDINO,otheroutstandingproducersareCaggiano,Caputo,FEUDIDISANGREGORIO,Molettieri,LuigiTecce,

TerredoradiPaulo.Tedeschi,FratelliVen★★→★★★Oneoftheoriginalquality

producersofVALPOLICELLAwhenthezonewasstillruledbymediocrities.“Capitel”tendstofigureinthenamesoftheirbestwines:AMARONECapitelMonteOlmi,RECIOTOCapitelFontana,RIPASSOCapitelSanRocco.

TenutaAnagriculturalholding(Seeundername,eg.SANGUIDO,TENUTA).

TerlanoT-AAw★★→★★★DYA.ALTOADIGETerlanoDOCappliestoonewhiteblendandeightwhitevarietals,espPINOTBLandSAUVBL.Best:CSTerlano(PinotBlVorberg,capableofremarkableageing),LAGEDER,Niedermayr,Niedrist.

TeroldegoRotalianoT-AADOCrp★★→★★★TRENTINO’sbestindigenousvarietymakesserious,full-flavouredwineontheflatCampoRotaliano.Foradoriistops,alsogd:Dorigati,Endrizzi,MEZZACORONA’sRISERVANos,Zeni.

TerreCortesiMoncaroMar★★★Marchesco-op;competeswiththebestoftheregionatv.modestprices:gdVERDICCHIODEICASTELLIDIJESI(LeVele),ROSSOCONERO,RISERVA(Nerone)andROSSOPICENOSUPERIORE(CampodelleMura).

TerredaVinoPie★→★★★Associationof27PIEDMONTproducerswith4,500hamakingmostlocalDOCs.BARBERAspecialistwithBarberad’ASTILaLunaeIFalòandBarberad’ALBACroere.Alsogd:BAROLOEssenzeamdBARBARESCOLaCasainCollina.

SpotlightonVeronaTosuchanextenthasAMARONEtakenoverasthe“WineLeader”ofhistoricVerona’sv’yds,withRIPASSOinhotpursuit,thattherehasdevelopedashortageofbasicVALPOLICELLA,madefromthesamegrapes.Bottlersseekingbulkstocksto

fulfilordersarehavingtopayconsiderablymorethantheyareusedtodoing,asarefansofthelight,tangy,everydayred.80%ofAmaroneisexported.Butfraudulent,oratleastmislabelled,versionsofthewinestylearemultiplying,andtheprotectionofthenameinvariousforeigncourtsiscostingalmosthalfamillioneuroseveryyear.

Terriccio,CastellodelTus★★★LargeestatesouthofLivorno:excellent,v.expensiveBordeaux-styleIGTLupicaia,v.gdIGTTassinaia.ImpressiveIGTTerriccio,anunusualblendofmainlyRhônegrapes.

TiefenbrunnerT-AA★★→★★★Agrower-négociantinaquaintTeutoniccastle(Turmhof)insouthernALTOADIGE.ChristofTsucceedsfather(winemakersince1943),makingwiderangeofmtn-freshwhiteandwell-definedredvarietals:French,Germanicandlocal,esp1,000-metre-highMüller-T

FeldmarschallandLinticlarusrangeCHARD/LAGREIN/PINOTN.TignanelloTusr★★★★01’04’06’07’080910(11)(12)

SANGIOVESE/CABSAUVblend,barrique-aged,thewinethatputSUPERTUSCANsonthemap,createdbyANTINORI’sgreatoenologistGiacomoTachisintheearly1970s.

TorcolatoVenSweetwinefromBREGANZEinVeneto,madefromVespaiolograpeslaidonmatsorhunguptodryformonths,asnearbyRECIOTODISOAVE.Best:MACULAN,CSBEATOBARTOLOMEO.

TorgianoUmbDOCrpw(sp)★★andTorgiano,RossoRiservaDOCGr★★→★★★00’01’0406070809(10)(11)(12)GdtoexcellentCHIANTI-styleredfromUmbria,virtuallyanexclusivityofLUNGAROTTI.VignaMonticchioRubescoRISERVAisoutstandinginvintagessuchas75,79,85,97,04;keepsmanyyrs.

TravagliniPieProbablythemainmaninthesomewhat

underwhelmingworldofnorthernPiedmonteseNEBBIOLO,withv.gdGATTINARARISERVA,GattinaraTreVigne,andprettygdNebbioloCostedellaSesia.

Trebbianod’AbruzzoAbDOCw★→★★DYA.Generallycrisp,low-flavourwine,butVALENTINI’shand-craftedversionwasvotedtopofthe50BestItalianWinesin2012,redorwhite.

TuscancoastRecentyrshaveseenarushtoplantinanareanothistoricallynotedforitsfine(orindeedany)wines–thecoastofTUSCANY,ie.theprovincesofPisa,LivornoandGrosseto.FirstitwasFrenchgrapessuchastheCABbrothers,MERLOT,SYRAH,PETITVERDOT;nowItalianslikeSANGIOVESE,CiliegioloandAlicanteareinfashion.Thebestproducersincl:Argentiera,Belguardo(Mazzei),CAIAROSSA,CA’MARCANDA(GAJA),CASTELLODEL

TERRICCIO,COLLEMassari,GuadoalTasso(ANTINORI),GualdodelRe,LEMACCHIOLE,LEPUPILLE,MicheleSATTA,Montepeloso,MORISFARMS,ORNELLAIA(FRESCOBALDI),POGGIOalTesoro(ALLEGRINI),TenutaSanGuido(SASSICAIA),TUARITA.

TrebbianodiRomagnaE-RDOCw★DYA.Big-volume,modest-pricequaffingwhite;gdacidity,littlecomplexity.Zerbina’sDalbiereandTreMonti’sVignadelRioaregd.

TrentinoT-AADOCrwdrsw★→★★★DOCfor20-oddwines,mostlyvarietallynamed.Best:CHARD,PINOTBL,MARZEMINO,TEROLDEGO.ProvincialcapitalisTrento.

Trinoro,TenutadiTus★★★IndividualistTUSCANredwineestate,pioneerinDOCVald’OrciabetweenMONTEPULCIANOandMONTALCINO.EarlyvintagesofBordeauxblendTrinorocaused

greatexcitement,thenthepriceshotup.LeCupolewasBordeauxgrapespluslocals,nowjustCABFRandMERLOT.AndreaFranchettialsohasv’ydsonMtETNA.

TuaRitaTus★★→★★★★FirstproducertoestablishSuvereto,some20kmdownthecoast,asthenewBOLGHERIinthe1990s.ProducerofpossiblyItaly’sgreatestMERLOTinRedigaffi;outstandingBordeauxblendGiustodiNotri.SeeVALDICORNIA.

Tuscany/ToscanaThefocalpointofItalianwine’slate20th-centuryrenaissance,withexperimentalwinessuchastheSUPERTUSCANs(butseeIntroduction)andmodernizedclassics,CHIANTI,VINONOBILEandBRUNELLO.

UmaniRonchiMar★★→★★★LeadingMarchesproducer,espforVERDICCHIO(CasaldiSerra,Plenio),ROSSOCONEROCumaro,IGTsLeBusche(w),Pelago(r).

Vajra,GDPie★★★ProducerofimmaculateBAROLO,BARBERA,

DOLCETTOandFREISAinthereddepartmentaswellasRIESinthewhite.RecentlypurchasedLuigiBaudanaestateinSerralunga.

ValcalepioLomDOCrwsw★→★★(w)DYA.WinesofthezoneofBergamo,wherePoValleymeetslastfoothillsoftheAlps.Grapeslargelyinternational(CAB,MERLOT,PINOTBIANCO,CHARD),butmainlydrunklocally.

ValdadigeT-AADOCrwdrs/sw★Name(inGerman:Etschtaler)forthesimplewinesofthevalleyoftheAdige:ALTOADIGEthroughTRENTINOtonorthernVENETO.

ValdiCorniaTusDOCrpw★★→★★★04’0506’07080910(11)(12)DOCsouthofBOLGHERI,provinceofLivorno.SANGIOVESE,CABSAUV,MERLOT,SYRAHandMONTEPULCIANO.Lookfor:Ambrosini,JacopoBanti,Bulichella,GualdodelRe,Incontri,Montepeloso,Petra,Russo,SanMichele,TenutaCasaDei,Terricciola,TUARITA.

Valentini,EdoardoAb★★★→★★★★SonFrancesco

continuestraditionoflong-macerated,non-filtered,unfined,hand-bottledMONTEPULCIANO,CERASUOLOandTREBBIANOD’ABRUZZO.Qualityandavailabilityunpredictable;potentiallyoutstanding.SeeMONTEPULCIANOD’ABRUZZO,TREBBIANOD’ABRUZZO.

Valled’AostaDOCrpw★★RegionalDOCforsome25Alpinewines,geographicallyorvarietallynamed,inclPremetta,Fumin,BlancdeMorgex,Chambave,NusMalvoisie,ArnadMontjovet,Torrette,DonnasandEnferd’Arvier.Theproductionistinyandthewinesarerarelyseenabroad–butarepotentiallyworthseekingout.

ValleIsarcoT-AADOCw★★DYA.ALTOADIGEDOCforsevenGermanicvarietalwhitesmadealongtheIsarco(Eisack)RivernortheastofBolzano.GdGEWURZ,MÜLLER-T,RIES,SILVANER.Topproducers:AbbaziadiNovacella,Eisacktaler,Kuenhof.

Vallone,AgricoleAp★★→★★★Large-scaleprivategrowerin

APULIA’sSALENTOpeninsula.Excellent,gd-valueBRINDISIVignaFlaminio(rp)andSALICESALENTINOVereto.Best-knownforitsAMARONE-like,semi-dried-grapewineGraticciaia.VignaCastelloisaclassyadditiontotherange.

ValpolicellaVenDOC(G)r★→★★★★Complexdenomination,incleverythingfromlightquafferswithacertainfruitywarmththroughstrongerSUPERIOREs(whichmayormaynotbeRIPASSO)toAMARONEsandRECIOTOsofancientlineage.Bitter-cherryisthecommonflavourcharacteristicofconstituentCORVINAandCorvinone(plusother)grapes.TodaystraightValpolisgettinghardtosource,allthebestgrapesgoingintotrendyprofitableAmarone.

Valpolicella:thebestVALPOLICELLAstartedwiththeRomansonthefirstfoothillsof

theAlpsabovethePoValleyatVerona.Ithasneverbeenbetterthantoday.AMARONEDELLAVALPOLICELLAandRECIOTODELLAVALPOLICELLAhavenowbeenelevatedtoDOCGstatus,whileValpolicellaRIPASSOhasatlastbeenrecognizedasahistoricwineinitsownright.Thefollowingproducersmakegdtogreatwine.Thecrèmedelacrèmeareindicatedby★:AccordiniStefano★,SeregoAlighieri,ALLEGRINI★,Begali,BERTANI,BOLLA,Boscaini,Brigaldara,BRUNELLI,BUSSOLA★,Ca’laBianca,Campagnola,Ca’Rugate,Castellani,Corteforte,CorteSant’Alda,CSValpantena,CantinaValpolicella,ValentinaCubi,DALFORNO★,GUERRIERI-RIZZARDI★,MASI,Mazzi★,Nicolis,QUINTARELLI★,RoccoloGrassi★,LeRagose,LeSalette,Speri★,TEDESCHI★,Tommasi,Venturini,VIVIANI★,ZENATO,Zeni.

ValpolicellaRipassoVenDOCr★★→★★★0405060809

(10)(11)VALPOLICELLAre-fermentedonRECIOTOorAMARONEgrapeskinstomakeacomplex,age-worthywine.RecentlygivenownDOCafteryrsofbattlebetweenmainbodyofproducersandonewhowantedexclusivityoftheterm.Gdtoexcellent:BUSSOLA,CANTINANEGRAR,Castellani,DALFORNO,QUINTARELLI,ZENATO.

ValtellinaLomDOC/DOCGr★→★★★Longeast-westvalley(mostAlpinevalleysrunnorth-south)ontheSwissborder.Steepsouth-facingterraceshaveformillenniagrownNEBBIOLO(herecalledCHIAVENNASCA)andrelatedgrapes.DOCGValtellinaSUPERIOREdividesintofivezones:Sassella,Grumello,Inferno,Valgella,Maroggia.Winesandscenerybothworththedetour.Besttodayare:Fay,MametePrevostini,Nera,NinoNegri,Plozza,Rainoldi,Triacca.DOCValtellinahaslessstringentrequirements.SeealsoSFORZATO.

VecchioSamperiSi★★★FamousestateforMARSALAVergine-

likewine.Thebestisbarrel-agedVentennale,ablendofyoungandv.oldvintages.SonsofrecentlydeceasedownerMarcodeBartolimaketopDOCMARSALAs,aswell,andoutstandingtablewinessuchasGrillo.AlsooutstandingPASSITOattheirBukkuramwineryonPANTELLERIA.

VelletriDOCrwsp★(w)DYA.FRASCATI-stylewhitesfromRomeoutskirts,featuringMALVASIAandTREBBIANO.InterestingredsofSANGIOVESE,MONTEPULCIANO,CesaneseandBombinoNero.CANTINAdiVelletriisacompetentproducer.

VendemmiaHarvestorvintage.VenegazzuVen★★★→★★★★IconicBordeauxblendfrom

eastVenetoproducerLoredanGasparini.EvenmoreprestigiousisthecruCapodiStato(createdforthetableofthepresidentofItaly).

VerdicchiodeiCastellidiJesiMarDOCw(sp)★★→★★★DYA.VersatilewhitefromnrAncona,canbelightand

quaffable,orsparkling,orstructured,complexandlong-lived(espRISERVADOCG,min2yrsold).AlsoCLASSICO.Bestfrom:Accadia,Bonci-Vallerosa,Brunori,BUCCI,Casalfarneto,Cimarelli,Colonnara,Coroncino,Fazi-Battaglia,FontedellaLuna,GAROFOLI,Laila,LucangeliAymerichdiLaconi,Mancinelli,Montecappone,MONTESCHIAVO,SantaBarbara,SARTARELLI,TERRECORTESIMoncaro,UMANIRONCHI.

VerdicchiodiMatelicaMarDOCw(sp)★★→★★★DYA.Similartoabove,smaller,moreinland,higherthereforemoreacidicthereforelonger-lasting,thoughlesseasy-drinkinginyouth.RISERVAislikewiseDOCG.EspBaronePizzini,Belisario,Bisci,LaMonacesca,PaglianoTre,SanBiagio.

VerdunoPieDOCr★★DYA.PaleredsimilartoGRIGNOLINO,fromPelavergagrapegrownonlyinBAROLO-zonecommuneofVerduno.Gd:BelColle,BURLOTTO,Alessandria,CASTELLODIVERDUNO.

Verduno,CastellodiPie★★★Husband/wifeteamFrancoBiancowithv’ydsinNeive,andGabriellaBurlottowithv’ydsinVERDUNO,makev.gdBARBARESCORabajaandBAROLOMonviglierowithwinemakerMarioAndrion.

VerduzzoF-VGDOC(ColliOrientalidelFriuli)wdrsws/sw★★→★★★Full-bodiedwhitefromlocalvariety.Ramandolo(DOCG)iswell-regardedsubzoneforsweetwine.Top:DarioCoos,Dorigo,GiovanniDri,Meroi.Alsogd:LISNERISsweetIGTTalLuc.

VermentinodiGalluraSarDOCGw★★→★★★DYA.ThebestdrywhiteofSardinia,fromthenortheastoftheisland–strongerandmoreintenselyflavouredthanVERMENTINODISARDEGNA.EspfromCAPICHERA,CSdiGallura,CSdelVermentinoandDepperu.

VermentinodiSardegnaLigDOCw★★DYA.OneofItaly’smostcharacterfulwhites,whethermadelight/dryorrobust,

grownthroughoutwesternLIGURIA,increasinglyalongTUSCANcoastandspreadinginlandtoUmbria.InSARDINIA,grownisland-wide.Gdproducers:SANTADI,SELLA&MOSCA.

VernacciadiOristanoSarDOCwdr★→★★★Vintagelessimportantthanprocess.SARDINIANflor-affectedwine,similartolightSherry,atouchbitter,full-bodied.SUPERIORE15.5%alcohol,3yrsofage.Deliciouswithbottarga(compressedfishroe),killtotryit.Top:CONTINI.

VernacciadiSanGimignanoTusSeeSANGIMIGNANO.VesuvioSeeLACRYMACHRISTI.ViediRomansF-VG★★★→★★★★GianfrancoGallohas

builtuphisfather’sISONZOestatetotopFRIULIstatus.ExcellentISONZOCHARD,PINOTGRDessimis,SAUVBLPiereandVieris(oaked),MALVASIA/RIES/FRIULANOblendcalledFlorsdiUis.

ViettiPie★★★VeteranproducerofcharacterfulPIEDMONTwinesatCastiglioneFalletto,inclBARBARESCOMasseria,BARBERA

d’ALBAScarrone,Barberad’ASTIlaCrena.Mainly,textbookBarolos:Lazzarito,Rocche,Brunate,Villero.

Vigna(orvigneto)Asinglev’yd,generallyindicatingsuperiorquality.

VignaltaVen★★TopproducerinCOLLIEUGANEI,nrPadua(Veneto);v.gdColliEuganeiCABSAUVRISERVAandMERLOT/CabSauvblendGemola.

VignamaggioTus★★→★★★Historic,beautifulandv.gdCHIANTICLASSICOestate,nrGreve.LeonardodaVinciissaidtohavepaintedtheMonaLisahere.RISERVAiscalled–youguessedit–MonaLisa.

VignediZamò,LeF-VG★★★First-classFRIULIestate.PINOTBL,FRIULANO,Pignolo,CABSAUV,MERLOTandPICOLITfromv’ydsinthreeareasofCOLLIORIENTALIDELFRIULIDOC.

VillaMatildeCam★★★TopCAMPANIAproducerofFALERNORosso(VignaCamarato)andBianco(Caracci),PASSITOEleusi.

VillaRussizLom★★★HistoricestateforDOCCOLLIO.V.gdSAUVBLandMERLOT(esp“delaTour”selections),PINOTBL,PINOTGR,FRIULANO,CHARD.

VinoNobilediMontepulcianoTusDOCGr★★→★★★0406’07’0809(10)(11)(12)HistoricSANGIOVESE(herecalledPrugnoloGentile)fromtheTuscantown(asdistinctfromAbruzzo’sgrape)MONTEPULCIANO,oftentoughwithdryingtannins,butcomplexandlong-lastingfrombestproducers:AVIGNONESI,Bindella,BOSCARELLI,LaBraccesca,LaCalonica,Canneto,LeCasalte,CONTUCCI,DEI,FattoriadelCerro,GraccianodellaSeta,GraccianoSvetoni,Icario,Nottola,PalazzoVecchio,POLIZIANO,Romeo,Salcheto,Trerose,Valdipiatta,VillaSant’Anna.RISERVAafter3yrs.

VinSanto/Vinsanto/Vin(o)SantoDOCwsws/sw★★→★★★★SweetwinemadefromPASSITOgrapes,usuallyTREBBIANO,MALVASIAand/orSANGIOVESEinTUSCANY

(“VinSanto”),NosiolainTRENTINO(“VinoSanto”).Tuscanversionsextremelyvariable,anythingfromoff-dryandSherry-liketosweetandv.rich.Mayspendthreetotenunrackedyrsinsmallbarrelscalledcaratelli.AVIGNONESI’sislegendary;plusCAPEZZANA,Corzano&Paterno,FattoriadelCerro,FELSINA,Frascole,ISOLEEOLENA,RoccadiMontegrossi,SanGervasio,SANGIUSTOARENTENNANO,SELVAPIANA,VillaSant’Anna,VilladiVetrice.SeealsoOCCHIODIPERNICE.

Vivaldi-ArundaT-AA★★→★★★TopALTOADIGEsparklingwines.Best:ExtraBrutRISERVA,CuvéeMarianna.

VivianiVen★★★ClaudioVivianishowshowmodernawineVALPOLICELLAandAMARONEcanbe.V.gdCLASSICOSUPERIORECampoMorar,betterRECIOTOLaMandrella,outstandingAmaroneCasadeiBepiandTulipanoNero.

Voerzio,RobertoPie★★★→★★★★BAROLOmodernist.Top,v.expensive,single-v’ydBarolos:Brunate,Cerequio,Rocche

dell’Annunziata-Torriglione,Sarmassa,Serra;impressiveBARBERAd’ALBA.

Volpaia,CastellodiTus★★→★★★V.gdCHIANTICLASSICOestateatRadda.SUPERTUSCANsColtassala(SANGIOVESE/Mammolo),Balifico(Sangiovese/CABSAUV).

ZenatoVen★★V.reliable,sometimesinspiredforGARDAwines,alsoVALPOLICELLA,SOAVE,AMARONE,LUGANA.

Zerbina,FattoriaE-R★★★LeaderinRomagna;bestsweetALBANADOCG(ScaccoMatto),v.gdSANGIOVESE(Pietramora);barrique-agedIGTMarzieno.

ZibibboSi★★drswSometimesthenameofwinefromPANTELLERIAmadefromMUSCATd’Alessandria,forwhichitisasynonym.

Zonin★→★★OneofItaly’sbiggestprivate-estateowners,basedatGambellarainVeneto,butalsobiginFRIULI,TUSCANY,APULIA,SICILYandelsewhere.

ZuaniLom★★★SmallCOLLIOestateownedbyPatrizia,daughterofMARCOFELLUGA.SuperiorwhiteblendZuaniRISERVA(oaked)andZuaniVigne(unoaked).

SavethathornetWeallknowthatyeastsongrapescanstartfermentation,buthowdotheyeastsgetthere?Hornets,apparently.Theytransferyeaststothegrapeswhentheybiteintothem:ithasbeenprovedbyDNAsequencing.Theyeastsliveinthehornets’gutsoverthewinter.Hornetsalsotransferotherflavour-givingmicro-organismstothegrapes,andwinewouldn’ttastethesamewithoutthem.Don’tsquashthem.

Germany

Doyouwantthegoodnews,orthegoodnews?ItisthatGermanwineisnowgoingtobeeasiertograsp.Oratleast,thebestofitis.Theassociationof200orsotopgrowersknownastheVDP(theVDPinsigniaonabottlehaslongbeenasurepointertoagoodwine)hasdecidedthatfromthe2012vintageonwardsitsmemberswilluseasimplefour-levelclassification.It’sbasedonthatusedinBurgundy:Gutsweinatthebottom,Ortswein(orvillage)wineonestepup,ErsteLage(orpremiercru)afurtherstepup,andGrosseLageornoblysweetwines(grandcru)atthetop.Simple,no?Infact,deceptivelysimple.ThewinesthatusedtobeErsteLagearenow(mostly)GrosseLage.AfewwillremainErsteLagebuthavetheirbestparcelspromotedtoGrosseLage,whichoffersusamarvellousopportunity,ahem,tolearnsomenewvineyardnames.

Butthebiggestcomplication,andtheonethatfranklybeggarsbelief,isthatthetermGrosslagestillexistsinGermanwinelaw.

It’susedforavastareaofanonymousvineyardslumpedtogetherforconvenienceandproducingcheapwine.(ThenewsystemonlyappliestoVDPmembers,remember;it’snotforeverybody.)SoGrosslage,inGermanwinelaw,ispreciselytheoppositeoftheVDP’sGrosseLage.It’shardnottowonderiftheydoitonpurpose.

Recentvintages

Mosel-Saar-RuwerMosels(includingSaarandRuwerwines)aresoattractiveyoungthattheirkeepingqualitiesarenotoftenenoughexplored.Butwell-madeRieslingwinesofKabinettclassgainfromatleast5yearsinbottleandoftenmuchmore:Spätlesefrom5–20,andAusleseandBAanythingfrom10–30years.Asarule,inpooryearstheSaarandRuwermakesharp,leanwines,butingoodyears,whichareincreasinglycommon,theycansurpassthewholeworldforeleganceandthrilling,steely“breeding”.2012Awarmandsunnyspring,butamixedsummer.Autumnwas

mildandpickingfairlylate;itendedsuddenlyaroundNovember10,whenfrosthit.ClassicwinesfromQbAtoAuslese,butalmostnoBAorTBA.Quantityis30%below

average.2011Mostlyabrilliantvintage,particularlysuccessfulintheSaar

andRuwer,withsensationalTBAs.2010Adifficultvintage:manywinesareeitheracidicortoo

heavilyde-acidified,somegoodSpätlesenandAuslesen.2009 PlentyofmagnificentSpätlesenandAuslesenwithperfect

acidity.Thedrywineshaveararebalanceofpowerandfinesse.Keepthebestinthecellar.

2008NotavintageforAuslesen,butKabinettsandSpätlesencanbefineandelegant.Drinkorkeep.

2007Goodqualityandgoodquantity,too.Nowincreasinglymature.

2006 Lotsofbotrytis,notonlynoble;drink.2005Veryhighripeness,butwithfarbetteraciditythan,say,2003.

Exceptional,especiallyintheSaar.Drinkorkeep.2004Afineyeartodrink.

2003Avintageofheat;considerablevariationinquality.Bestwinesmayturnouttobeasgoodasthe1959s.

2002 Succulent,livelyKabinettandSpätlesewines,nowreadytodrink.

2001 ThebestMoselRiessince1990.SaarandRuwerlessexcitingbutstillperfectbalance.LotsofSpätlesenandAuslesentodrinkorkeep.

2000DominatedbyQbAandKabinett,notagreatvintage.Drink.1999 ExcellentinSaarandRuwer,lotsofAuslesen;generallyonly

goodintheMosel.Bestcanagefurther.1998Rainyautumnbroughtmixedresults,MiddleMoselfaredbest

butmostwinesarenowfullymature.Agoodyear(inquantityandquality)forintenseEiswein.

Fineoldervintages:9795939089887671696459534945373421.

Rheinhessen,Nahe,Pfalz,RheingauEventhebestwinescanbedrunkwithpleasurewhenyoung,butclassicSpätleseandAusleseRieslingsgainenormouslyincharacterbykeeping.Rheingauwinestendtobelongest-lived,improvingfor15yearsormore,butbestwinesfromRheinhessen,theNaheandPfalzcanlastaslong.Modern-styledrywinessuchasGrossesGewächsaregenerallyintendedfordrinkingwithintwotofouryears,butthebestundoubtedlyhavethepotentialtoageinterestingly.2012Notaneasyyear:earlybutunevenflowering,attacksof

mildewduringsummer,butadryperiodofsunshineduringharvestsavedthevintage.Quantitiesarebelowaverage,butqualityispromising.

2011 Thewinesarefruity,withharmoniousacidity.2010 Forthefirsttimeinadecade,grapeshaddifficultyripening.

Unevenquality;drywinesshouldbedrunknow.

2009 Excellentwines,especiallydry.Someacidification.2008Unevenquality.Late-harvestwinesaregood,inparticularin

theRheingau.Verywelcome:lowalcohollevels.2007Drywinesarematuringfasterthanexpected.Drink.2006 Topestatesmanagedsmallquantitiesoffairmiddleweight

wines.Drinknow.2005Highripenesslevels,withbyexcellentacidityandextract.A

superbyear.Drinkorkeep.2004Ripe,healthygrapesthroughouttheRhine.Abigcrop;some

dilution,thoughnotattopestates.2003Richwines;manylackacidity.Redsfaredwell,ifalcohol

levelswereundercontrol.Drink.2002 Fewchallengethebestof2001,butverygoodforbothclassic

Kabinett/Spätleseandfordry.ExcellentPinotN.Drink.2001MoreerraticthanintheMosel,butanexcitingvintagefor

bothdryandclassicstyles;excellentbalance.Drinkorkeep.

2000 Thefarthersouth,themoreharvestrain,thePfalzcatchingtheworst.Drinkup.

1999Qualitywasaveragewhereyieldswerehigh,butfortopgrowersanexcellentvintageofrich,aromaticwineswithlotsofcharmtodrinksoon.

1998 Excellent:rich,balancedwines,manygoodSpätlesenandAuslesenwithexcellentageingpotential.RainaffectedmuchofBadenandFranken.ButagreatEisweinyear.

Fineoldervintages:9796939083767169676459534945373421.

GermanvintagenotationThevintagenotesafterentriesintheGermansectionaregiveninadifferentformfromthoseelsewhereinthebook.Twostylesofvintageareindicated:Boldtype(eg.09)indicatesclassic,ripevintageswithahigh

proportionofSPÄTLESEnandAUSLESEn;or,inthecaseofredwines,gdphenolicripenessandmustweights.Normaltype(eg.09)indicatesasuccessfulbutnotparticularlyoutstandingvintage.Germanwhitewines,espRIES,havehighacidityandkeepwell,andtheydisplaypure-fruitqualitiesbecausetheyareunoaked.Thustheycanbedrunkyoungfortheirintensefruitiness,orkeptforadecadeortwotodevelopmorearomaticsubtletyandfinesse.Thismeansthereisnooneidealmomenttodrinkthem–whichiswhynovintagesarespecificallyrecommendedfordrinkingnow.

Acham-MaginPfz★★→★★★Risingfamilyestate,newlyorganic,producingclassicMITTELHAARDTRIESfromthebestv’ydsitesinFORSTandDEIDESHEIM.EspgdatKABINETTlevel.

AchkarrenBad★★→★★★VillageontheKAISERSTUHL,known

foropulentbutmineralGRAUBURGUNDER.GROSSELAGEv’yd:Schlossberg(volcanicsoil).Best:DR.HEGER,Michel,SCHWARZERADLER,StRemigius,andco-op.

Adelmann,WeingutGrafWürt★★→★★★YoungcountFelixAdelmannisnowinchargeatidyllicSchaubeckcastleinWÜRTTEMBERG,Subtleredblends,andRIES(GROSSELAGESüßmund).

Ahrr★★→★★★★97990205091112SouthofBonn.Mineral,fruit-driven(andnowadaysv.powerful)SPÄTBURGUNDERandFRÜHBURGUNDERfromslatesoils.Bestproducers:Adeneuer,Deutzerhof,KREUZBERG,MEYER-NÄKEL,Nelles,STODDEN,co-opMayschoss-Altenahr.

Aldinger,GerhardWürt★★★OneofWÜRTTEMBERG’sleadingestates:denseLEMBERGERandSPÄTBURGUNDER,complexSAUVBL.GdRIES,too.

AlteRebenOldvines.Increasinglycommondesignationon

Germanlabels,andanobviousanalogytotheFrenchtermvieillesvignes.Theanalogyisperfect:nominage.

AmtlichePrüfungsnummer(APNr)Officialtestnumber,oneverylabelofaqualitywine.UsefulfordiscerningdifferentlotsofAUSLESEaproducerhasmadefromthesamev’yd.

AssmannshausenRhgr★★→★★★★9397990102050809101112CraggyRHEINGAUvillageknownforitscassis-scented,age-worthySpätburgundersfromslatesoils.GROSSELAGEv’yd:Höllenberg.GrowersinclBischöflichesWeingut,ChatSauvage,KESSELER,RobertKönig,KRONEandthestatedomain.

AusleseWinesfromselectiveharvestofsuper-ripebunches,inmanyyrsaffectedbynoblerot(Edelfäule)andcorrespondinglyunctuousinflavour.DryAuslesenareoftentooalcoholicandclumsyforme.

AylM-S-R★→★★★Since1971allv’ydsinAylareknownbythenameofitshistoricallybestsite:Kupp.SuchareGerman

winelaws.Growersincl:BISCHÖFLICHEWEINGÜTER,Lauer.BacharachMRh★→★★★97010204050809101112Main

winetownofMITTELRHEIN.Racy,austereRIES,somev.fine.ClassifiedasGROSSELAGEN:Hahn,Posten,Wolfshöhle.GrowersinclBastian,JOST,KAUER,RATZENBERGER.

Badenrw839097050809101112Hugesouthwestareaofscatteredv’ydsbest-knownforthePINOTsbothwhiteandred,andpocketsofRIES,usuallydry.Bestareas:KAISERSTUHL,ORTENAU.

Bassermann-JordanPfz★★★MITTELHAARDTestatewith49haofoutstandingv’ydsinDEIDESHEIM,FORST,RUPPERTSBERG,etc.MajesticdryRIESandlavishsweetwines,too.

Becker,FriedrichPfz★★★RenownedestateinthemunicipalityofSCHWEIGEN(southernPFALZ),18ha,specializinginrefined,barrel-agedSPÄTBURGUNDER.SomeofBecker’sv’ydsactuallylieacrossthestateborder,inAlsace.

Becker,JBRhg★★→★★★909294970102050809101112ThebestestateatWALLUF,specializinginold-fashioned,cask-aged(andlong-lived)dryRIESandSPÄTBURGUNDER.ExcellentbacklistofRiesvintagesbacktothe1990s.

Beerenauslese(BA)Luscioussweetwinefromexceptionallyripe,individuallyselectedberriesconcentratedbynoblerot.Rare,expensive.

BercherBad★★★KAISERSTUHLestateatBurkheim,excellentGRAUBURGUNDER,WEISSBURGUNDER(try2011SasbacherLimburg),CHARDandSPÄTBURGUNDER.

BergdoltPfz★★★SouthofNeustadtinthePFALZ,this24haestateproducesv.fineWEISSBURGUNDER(fromtheMandelbergv’yd),aswellasgdRIESandSPÄTBURGUNDER.

BernkastelM-M★→★★★★9094969701020305070809101112SeniorwinetownoftheMITTELMOSEL.GROSSELAGEN:Doctor,Lay.Topgrowers:Kerpen,LOOSEN,Pauly-Bergweiler,

PRÜM,Studert-Prüm,THANISCH(bothestates),WEGELER.AnyBernkastel(Bereich),soldunderthe“Kurfürstlay”GROSSLAGEnameisadeception–avoid.

BischöflicheWeingüterM-S-R★★130haoftopv’yds,unitingTriercathedral’sv’ydswiththoseofthreeothercharities,noteworthyforenduringunderperformance.

BocksbeutelInconvenientflask-shapedbottleusedinFRANKENandnorthBADEN.

BodenseeBadIdyllicdistrictofsouthBADEN,onLakeConstance.DryRIES-likeMÜLLER-Taspeciality,andlightbutdelicateSPÄTBURGUNDER.Topvillages:Meersburg,Hagnau.Lovelyholidaywines.

Böhme,KlausSa-Un★★Risingfamilyestate,oneofEasternGermany’sbest.Elegant,full-flavouredWEISSBURGUNDERandTRAMINERarespecialities.

BoppardMRh★→★★★WinetownofMITTELRHEINwith

GROSSELAGEHamm,anamphitheatreofvines.Growers:Lorenz,MMüller,Perll,WEINGART.Unbeatablevalueformoney.

BraunebergM-M★★★★597183909394959697990102040506070809101112TopvillagenrBERNKASTEL;excellentfull-flavouredRIES.GROSSELAGEv’ydsJuffer,Juffer-Sonnenuhr.Growers:FHAAG,WHAAG,KESSELSTATT,Paulinshof,RICHTER,SCHLOSSLIESER,THANISCH.

BreuerRhg★★★→★★★★FamilyestateinRÜDESHEIMandRAUENTHAL,knownfordistinctlydryRIES,SEKTandSPÄTBURGUNDER.SinceBernhardBreuer’sdeath(in2004),daughterTheresafollowsinhisfootsteps.

Buhl,ReichsratvonPfz★★★HistoricPFALZestatewithv’ydsinDEIDESHEIM,FORSTandRUPPERTSBERG,ownedbybusinessmanAchimNiederberger(alsoBASSERMANN-JORDAN,DR.DEINHARD,VONWINNING).Newlyorganic,andnow–undernewmanagementsinceearly2013–strivingformorerefinement.

GermanPinotNoirvintagesfrom2000–12werehotinoddnumbers,coolineven.

BürgerspitalzumHeiligenGeistFrank★★→★★★Anancientcharitableestate.Traditionallymadewhites(SilvanerandRIES)fromthebestsitesinandaroundWÜRZBURG.MonopolyStein-HarfecomprisesthebestparcelsinthefamousSteinv’yd.

Bürklin-Wolf,Dr.Pfz★★★→★★★★HistoricPFALZestate,biodynamicfarmingbringsaboutage-worthy,characterfuldryandoff-dryRIESfrombestGROSSELAGEandERSTELAGEsitesintheMITTELHAARDTdistrict.

Busch,ClemensM-S-R★★→★★★Family-runbiodynamicproperty.ClemensBuschandsonFlorianproducepowerfuldryandelegantsweetRIESfromthesteepPündericherMarienburginlowerMOSEL.Bestwinesnamedforparcelswithdifferentslatesoils:Fahrlay,Falkenlay,Rothenpfad,Raffes.

Castell’schesFürstlichesDomänenamtFrank★→★★★Historicprincelyestate.SILVANER,RIESandSPÄTBURGUNDERfromsuperbmonopolyv’ydCastellerSchlossberg(aGROSSELAGE)aretraditionallycrafted.

ChristmannPfz★★★BiodynamicestateinGimmeldingenmakingrich,dryRIESandSPÄTBURGUNDER,notablyfromGROSSELAGEKönigsbacherIdig.SteffenChristmannispresidentoftheVDP.

Clüsserath,AnsgarM-S-R★★→★★★FamilyestateledbyyoungEvaClüsserath(marriedtoPhilippWITTMANNofRHEINHESSEN).Remarkablyage-worthy,mineraldryRIESfromTRITTENHEIMerApotheke.

Clüsserath-WeilerM-S-R★★★HelmutClüsserathanddaughterVerenaproduceclassicRIES,espfrombestplotsintheTRITTENHEIMerApothekev’yd.

Crusius,Dr.Na★★→★★★FamilyestateatTRAISEN,NAHE.

Vividandage-worthyRIESfromBasteiandRotenfelsofTraisenandSCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIM.

DeidesheimPfz★★→★★★★9097010204050809101112Largesttop-qualityvillageofthePFALZ.Richlyflavoured,livelywinesfromaseriesofGROSSEandERSTELAGEv’yds,bestare:Grainhübel,Hohenmorgen,Kalkofen,Kieselberg,Langenmorgen.Topgrowers:BASSERMANN-JORDAN,Biffar,BUHL,BÜRKLIN-WOLF,CHRISTMANN,DEINHARD,MOSBACHER,VONWINNING.

Deinhard,Dr.Pfz★★★FineestateownedbyAchimNiederberger(seeBASSERMANN-JORDANandBUHL).Since2008,abrandofthenewVONWINNINGestate,butcontinuingtoproducePFALZRIESofclassicalstyle.

Diel,SchlossgutNa★★★→★★★★Justifiedlyfamousestate,thetraditionalv’yd-designatedRies(eg.GoldlochandPittermännchenofDorsheim)isexquisite.AlsoseriousSEKT,

andremarkableSPÄTBURGUNDER.OmnipresentArminDielnowassistedbydaughterCaroline.

DönnhoffNa★★★★90949697990102030405070809101112LeadingNAHEestateofadmirableconsistency.HelmutDönnhoffspecializesinrestoringabandonedv’ydsandsimplenaturalwinemaking,assistedbysonCornelius.WinesaredryRIESfromBadKreuznach(full-bodied)andRoxheim(mineral,elegant),outstandingGROSSESGEWÄCHSfromNIEDERHAUSEN(Hermannshöhle),Norheim(Dellchen),andSCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIM(Felsenberg),anddazzlingEISWEINfromOberhausen’sBrückev’yd.

DurbachBad★★→★★★0508091112ORTENAUvillageknownforitssteepPlauelrainvyd.Topgrowers:GrafMetternich,LAIBLE,HMännle,SchlossStaufenberg.RIES,locallycalledKlingelberger,istheoutstandingvariety.

EgonMüllerzuScharzhofM-S-R★★★★59717683858889

9093949596979899010203040506070809101112LegendarySAARestateatWILTINGEN,v’ydsrisingsteeplybehindtheMüllers’manorhouse.ItsrichandracySCHARZHOFBERGerRIESinAuslesenvintagesisamongtheworld’sgreatestwines:sublime,honeyed,immortal.Kabinettsseemfeatherlightbutkeep5yrs+.Oldvines(insomeparcelsungrafted)andlow-techwinemakingarethekey.

EinzellageIndividualv’ydsite.NevertobeconfusedwithGROSSLAGE.

EisweinMadefromfrozengrapeswiththeice(ie.watercontent)discarded,producingv.concentratedwineinflavour,acidityandsugar–ofBAripenessormore.Alcoholcontentcanbeaslowas5.5%.V.expensive.OutstandingEisweinvintages:1998,2002,2004,2008.

EllwangerWürt★★→★★★JürgenEllwangerpioneeredoak-agedredsinWÜRTTEMBERG,hissonsJörgandFelixturnout

sappybutstructuredLEMBERGER,SPÄTBURGUNDER,ZWEIGELT.Emrich-SchönleberNa★★★→★★★★OneofGermany’s

mostreliableproducers,knownforpreciseRIESfromMonzingen’sclassifiedHalenbergandFrühlingsplätzchenvyd’s.Dryandbotrytizedsweetareequallyoutstanding.

ErdenM-M★★★90970103050809101112ThevillageadjoiningÜRZIG:noble,full-flavouredwine,oftenwithherbalscent.ClassifiedasGROSSELAGE:Prälat,Treppchen.GrowersinclJJChristoffel,LOOSEN,Mönchhof,Schmitges,WEINS-PRÜM.

ErsteLageClassifiedv’yd,second-from-toplevel,accordingtotheVDP.(NotallgrowersbelongtotheVDP,thoughthebestusuallydo.)Atpresentambiguous:forvintagesbefore2012:v’ydsiteofexceptionalquality,markedwithagrapelogowitha“1”nexttoit.Startingwith2012,mostoftheformerERSTELAGEv’ydsarerenamedGROSSELAGE,whileErsteLagedefinesanewcategorybetweentheORTSWEINlevelandGrosseLage,similar

toBurgundy’spremiercru.Yetsomeregions–namelyAHR,MITTELRHEIN,MOSEL,NAHEandRHEINHESSEN–donotintendtousetheErsteLagedesignationanylonger.Ifasinglev’ydisclassified,itisalwaysGROSSELAGE.

ErstesGewächsRhg“Firstgrowth”.OnlyforRHEINGAUv’yds,butVDP-memberstherechangetotheGROSSESGEWÄCHSdesignationafter2012.

ErzeugerabfüllungBottledbyproducer.Incltheguaranteethatonlyowngrapeshavebeenprocessed.Maybeusedbyco-opsalso.GUTSABFÜLLUNGisstricter,appliesonlytoestates.

EscherndorfFrank★★→★★★97010405070809101112VillagewithsteepGROSSELAGELump(“rag”).Thenamealludestothefactthatthev’ydissplitintotinyparcels–duetothelawsofinheritanceandtheheirs’reluctancetosell.BestforSILVANERandRIES.GrowersinclMFröhlich,JULIUSSPITAL,HSAUER,RSAUER,ESchäffer.

FeinherbImpreciselydefinedtraditionaltermforwineswitharound10–20gofsugar/litre,notnecessarilytastingsweet.FavouredbysomeasamoreflexiblealternativetoHALBTROCKEN.

ForstPfz★★→★★★★909701050809101112OutstandingMITTELHAARDTvillage.Ripe,richlyfragrant,full-bodiedbutsubtlewines.GROSSELAGEv’yds:Jesuitengarten,Kirchenstück,Freundstück,Pechstein,Ungeheuer.Topgrowers:ACHAM-MAGIN,BASSERMANN-JORDAN,VONBUHL,BÜRKLIN-WOLF,DR.DEINHARD/VONWINNING,MOSBACHER,WOLF.

Franken9097010405070809101112(Franconia)Regionofdistinctivedrywines,espSilvaner,mostlybottledinround-belliedflasks(BOCKSBEUTEL).CentreisWÜRZBURG,topvillages:Klingenberg,RANDERSACKER,IPHOFEN,ESCHERNDORF.

FranzenM-S-R★★FromEurope’ssteepestv’yd,BremmerCalmont,youngKilianFranzenproducesdense,mineralRIES,

mostlydry.FuderTraditionalRIEScaskwithsizesfrom500–1,500litres

dependingontheregion,traditionallyusedforfermentationandageing.

FürstFrank★★★→★★★★97990102050809101112FamilyestateinBürgstadt.PaulFürstnowjoinedbysonSebastian.Outstandingquality:refinedandlong-livedSpätburgunder(oneofGermany’sbest),denseandsilkyFRÜHBURGUNDER,crispRIES,classicalSILVANER,oak-agedWEISSBURGUNDER.

Gallais,LeM-S-RSecondestateofEGONMÜLLERZUSCHARZHOFwith4ha-monopolyBrauneKuppofWILTINGEN.SoilisschistwithmoreclaythaninSCHARZHOFBERG;Auslesen(eg.GoldCap2009)canbeexceptional.

GeisenheimRhgRheingautownwithoutfirst-classv’yds,buthomeofGermany’smostimportantuniversityofoenologyand

viticulture.GraachM-M★★★→★★★★90939495969799010405

070809101112SmallvillagebetweenBERNKASTELandWEHLEN.GROSSELAGEv’yds:Domprobst,Himmelreich,Josephshof.Topgrowers:Kees-Kieren,vonKESSELSTATT,LOOSEN,MMOLITOR,JJPRÜM,SAPRÜM,SCHAEFER,SELBACH-OSTER,Studert-Prüm,WEGELER,Weins-Prüm.ThreatenedbyplannednewAutobahn.

Grans-FassianM-S-R★★★FineMOSELestateknownforsteely,elegant,age-worthyRIESfromv’ydsinTRITTENHEIM,PIESPORT,LEIWENandDrohn.EISWEINaspeciality.

GrosseLageThetopleveloftheVDP’snewclassification,butonlyappliestoVDPmembers.NBNotonanyaccounttobeconfusedwithGROSSLAGE.MeanttoreplaceERSTELAGEforv.bestv’ydsites.ThedrywinefromaGrosseLagesiteiscalledGROSSESGEWÄCHS.

GrosserRingM-S-RGroupoftop(VDP)MOSEL-SAAR-RUWERestates,whoseannualSeptauctionatTriersetsworld-recordprices.

GrossesGewächs“Great/topgrowth”.ThisisthetopdrywinefromaVDP-classifiedERSTELAGE(until2012),orGROSSELAGE(since2012).SeealsoERSTESGEWÄCHS.

GrosslageAcollectionofsecondaryv’ydswithsupposedlysimilarcharacter–butnoindicationofquality.NottobeconfusedwithGROSSELAGE.

GunderlochRhh★★★→★★★★90970105070809101112AtthisNACKENHEIMestateFritzHasselbachmakessomeofthefinestRIESontheentireRhine,espatAUSLESElevelandabove.Bestv’yds:Rothenberg,Pettenthal.

GutsabfüllungEstate-bottled,andmadefromowngrapes.Haag,FritzM-S-R★★★★909495969799010204050708

09101112BRAUNEBERG’stopestate;OliverHaagcontinuesthe

workoffatherWilhelminslightlymoremodernstyle.Haag’sotherson,Thomas,runsSCHLOSSLIESERestate.

Germany’squalitylevelsTheofficialrangeofqualitiesandstylesinascendingorderis:1Wein:formerlyknownasTafelwein.Lightwineofnospecifiedcharacter,mostlysweetish.2ggA:geschütztegeographischeAngabe,orProtectedGeographicalIndication,formerlyknownasLANDWEIN.DryishWeinwithsomeregionalstyle.Mostlyalabeltoavoid,butsomethoughtfulestatesusetheLandweinorggAdesignationinordertobypassconstraintsofstateauthorities.3gU:geschützteUrspungsbezeichnung,orProtectedDesignationofOrigin.ReplacingQUALITÄTSWEIN.4Qualitätswein:dryorsweetishwinewithsugaraddedbeforefermentationtoincreaseitsstrength,buttestedforqualityand

withdistinctlocalandgrapecharacter.Don’tdespair.5Kabinett:dryordryishnatural(unsugared)wineofdistinctpersonalityanddistinguishinglightness.Canoccasionallybesublime.6Spätlese:stronger,oftensweeterthanKABINETT.Full-bodied.TodaymanytopSPÄTLESENareTROCKENorcompletelydry.7Auslese:sweeter,canbestrongerthanSpätlese,oftenwithhoney-likeflavours,intenseandlong-lived.Occasionallydryandweighty.8Beerenauslese(BA):v.sweet,canbestrong,intense.Canbesuperb.9Eiswein:fromnaturallyfrozengrapesofBAorTBAquality:concentrated,sharpishandv.sweet.Someexamplesareextremeandunharmonious.10Trockenbeerenauslese(TBA):intenselysweetandaromatic;alcoholslight.Extraordinaryandeverlasting.

Haag,WilliM-S-R★★→★★★AscendingBRAUNEBERGestate,ledbyMarcusHaag.Old-styleRIES,mainlysweet,richbutbalanced,try2010or2011JufferKABINETT,andthe2011Juffer-SonnenuhrSPÄTLESEnandAUSLESEn.

Haart,ReinholdM-S-R★★★→★★★★BestestateinPIESPORTandWintrich.Refined,aromatic,andminerallywines,bothdryandsweet.SPÄTLESEn,AUSLESEnandhigherPRÄDIKATwinesareracycopybookMoselRies–withgreatageingpotential.

HalbtrockenMedium-dry(literallysemi-dry),with9–18gofunfermentedsugar/litre.“Halbtrocken”onalabelisabitofasales-killer.FEINHERBsoundsbetter.

HattenheimRhg★★→★★★★97010508091112TownfamousforGROSSELAGEnSTEINBERG,Nussbrunnen,Wisselbrunnen.EstatesinclBarth,Knyphausen,Lang,LANGWERTHVONSIMMERN,Ress,SchlossSchönborn,

STAATSWEINGUT.TheBrunnen(well)v’ydslieonsolidrock(thatcollectsrainlikeabasin)–agdprotectionagainstdrought.

Heger,Dr.Bad★★★→★★★★05070809101112KAISERSTUHLfamilyestate.MinerallydrywinesfromsteepslopesandterracesinACHKARRENandIHRINGEN,nowfocusingonGROSSELAGEparcelselections:Häusleboden(SPÄTBURGUNDER),GrasimOfenandRappenecker(WEISSBURGUNDER,GRAUBURGUNDER).VordererBergdesignationforthev.bestWinklerbergparcelsforbiddenbystateauthorities,whodislikedthename.WeinhausJoachimHegerwinesarefromrentedv’yds.

HessischeBergstrassew★★→★★★0105091112Germany’ssmallestwineregion,northofHeidelberg.PleasantRIESfromSTAATSWEINGÜTer,Simon-BürkleandStadtBensheim.

HeylzuHerrnsheimRhh★★→★★★HistoricNIERSTEINestate,biodynamic,nowpartoftheST-ANTONYestate.GROSSES

GEWÄCHSfrommonopolysiteBrudersbergcanbeexcellent,butoverallqualityisuneven.

Heymann-LöwensteinM-S-R★★★AfamilyestateatWINNINGENnrKoblenz.SpontaneouslyfermentedRIESfromterracesinthesteepUhlenandRöttgenv’yds.Parcelselections(BlaufüsserLay,Rothlay,Laubach)aresorefinedthatthedry/off-dry-distinctionseemstoloseanymeaning.

HochgewächsDesignation,in(rare)usesince1987,foraRIESQUALITÄTSWEINthatobeysstricterrequirementsthanplainQbA(+10degreesOECHSLE).

HochheimRhg★★→★★★★90970104050809101112TowneastofmainRHEINGAUarea.Rich,distinctlyearthyRIESfromGROSSELAGEv’yds:Domdechaney,Hölle,Kirchenstück,Reichestal.GrowersinclHimmel,Königin-Victoriaberg,Künstler,SchlossSchönborn,STAATSWEINGUT,Werner.

HockTraditionalEnglishtermforRhinewine,derivedfrom

HOCHHEIM.

BewareBereichandGrosslage–buthurrahforGrosseLageBereichmeansdistrictwithinanAnbaugebiet(region).Bereichonalabelshouldbetreatedasaflashingredlight.Thewineisablendfromarbitrarysiteswithinthatdistrict.Donotbuy.ThesameholdsforwineswithaGROSSLAGEname,thoughthesearemoredifficulttoidentify.Whocouldguessif“ForsterMariengarten”isanEINZELLAGEoraGrosslage?Butnow,startingwiththe2012vintage,it’sgettingevenmoretricky.YoumustbynomeansconfuseGrosslagewithGROSSELAGE:Thelatterdesignationreferstothebestsinglev‘yds,Germany’sgrandscrusaccordingtotheclassificationsetupbywine-growers’associationVDP.

Hoensbroech,WeingutReichsgrafzuBad★★→★★★TopKRAICHGAUestate.LookfordryWEISSBURGUNDERfromMichelfelderHimmelberg,av’ydonv.calcareousloesssoils.

Hövel,WeingutvonM-S-R★★→★★★FineSAARestateatOberemmel(Hütteis4.8hamonopoly)andinSCHARZHOFBERG,knownforsubtleSPÄTLESENandAUSLESEN.EberhardvonKunowhasnowhandedovertohissonMaximilian.

Huber,BernhardBad★★★LeadingestateinBreisgau,withpowerful,long-livedSPÄTBURGUNDER(espAlteReben,BombacherSommerhalde,Wildenstein)andburgundy-styleCHARD(HecklingerSchlossberg).

IhringenBad★→★★★★01050809101112VillageinKAISERSTUHL.Best-knownforSPÄTBURGUNDERandGRAUBURGUNDERfromvolcanicsoilsonsteepWinklerberg.Stupidlythelawpermitswinesfromtheloessplateautobesoldunderthesamename.Topgrowers:DR.HEGER,Konstanzer,

Michel,Stigler.Immich-BatteriebergM-M★★→★★★Comebackofanold

name.Newowners(2009)producedryandoff-dryRIESwithpiquancyandmineralbrilliancefromSteffensberg,EllergrubandBatteriebergv’ydsinEnkirch.Nosweetwines.

IphofenFrank★★→★★★909701050809101112FamousSTEIGERWALDVillage,knownforFRANKEN’Smostage-worthySILVANERs.Classifiedv’yds:Julius-Echter-Berg,Kronsberg.GrowersinclJULIUSSPITAL,RUCK,WIRSCHING,WELTNER,Zehntkeller.

JahrgangYear–asin“vintage”.JohannisbergRhg★★→★★★★90979901040507080910

1112ClassicRHEINGAUvillageforsuperlativelong-livedRIES.GROSSELAGEv’yds:Hölle,Klaus,SCHLOSSJOHANNISBERG.GROSSLAGE(avoid!):Erntebringer.Topgrowers:JOHANNISHOF,SCHLOSSJOHANNISBERG,PRINZVONHESSEN.

Johannishof-EserRhg★★→★★★JOHANNISBERGfamilyestate.JohannesEserproducesintenseRIES,bothdryandsweetinarich,fruitystyle.

JosephshöferM-S-R83900203050809101112GROSSELAGEv’ydatGRAACH,thesolepropertyofKESSELSTATT.Harmonious,berry-flavouredRIES,bothdryandsweet.Likeitsneighbours,soontobeovershadowedbynewAutobahnbridge.

Jost,ToniMRh★★★LeadingestateinBACHARACH,sharplymineralwines.Since2009,theexcellentGROSSELAGEHahnisamonopolyofJost’s.HealsorunsasecondestateatWALLUFintheRHEINGAU.

JuliusspitalFrank★★★AncientWÜRZBURGcharitywithtopv’yds.LookfordrySilvaners(theyagewell),RIESandtopblendBT.

KabinettSeeboxGermany’squalitylevels.Germany’suniquefeather-weightcontribution.

KaiserstuhlBadrwOutstandingdistrictwithnotablywarmclimateandvolcanicsoil.RenownedaboveallforSPÄTBURGUNDERandGRAUBURGUNDER.

KanzemM-S-R★★★909799010405070809101112Saarvillage,neighbourofWILTINGEN.GROSSELAGEv’yd:Altenberg.Growersincl:BISCHÖFLICHEWEINGÜTER,OTHEGRAVEN,VANVOLXEM.

KarlsmühleM-S-R★★★EstatewithtwoLorenzhöfermonopolysitesmakingclassicRUWERRIES.Consistentlyexcellentquality.

KarthäuserhofM-S-R★★★★90939597990104050708091011OutstandingRUWERestateatEitelsbachwithmonopolyv’ydKarthäuserhofberg.Easilyrecognizedbybottleswithonlyanecklabel.PolishedTROCKENwinesandmagnificentAUSLESEn.ChristophTyrellhasnowformallyhandedtheestateovertoacousin,butheremainsinchargeofoperations.

KaselM-S-R★★→★★★Flowery,well-ageingRUWERRIES.

GROSSELAGEv’yds:Kehrnagel,Nies’chen.Top:Beulwitz,BISCHÖFLICHEWEINGÜTER,KARLSMÜHLE,KESSELSTATT.

KauerMRh★★→★★★FamilyestateatBACHARACH.Crystalline,aromaticRIES,organicallygrown.RandolfKauerisprofessoroforganicviticultureatGEISENHEIM.

Keller,WeingutRhh★★→★★★★Superlative,powerfulGROSSESGEWÄCHSRIESfromDalsheimerHubacker;priceyRiescalledG-Maxfromanundisclosedsinglev’yd.

Kesseler,AugustRhg★★★PassionategrowermakingfineSPÄTBURGUNDERfromASSMANNSHAUSENandRÜDESHEIM.Alsov.gdclassic-styleRIES(Rüdesheim,LORCH).

Kesselstatt,ReichsgrafvonM-S-R★★★→★★★★35haoftopv’ydsontheMoselandbothofitstributaries,eg.JOSEPHSHÖFER,PIESPORTerGoldtröpfchen,KASELerNies’chenandSCHARZHOFBERGer.Recently,quality-obsessedAnnegretReh-Gartnerhasraisedtheproportionofspontaneous

fermentationsinFUDERcasks–theresultisevenmoremineraldefinition.

KiedrichRhgw★★→★★★★VillagelinkedinseparablytotheWEILestate;topv’ydGräfenberg.Othergrowers(eg.HESSEN,Knyphausen)ownonlysmallplotshere.

KlosterEberbachRhgGlorious12th-centuryCistercianabbeyinHATTENHEIM,starredinthefilmNameoftheRose.NowthelabeloftheSTAATSWEINGÜTERwithastringofgreatv’ydsinASSMANNSHAUSEN,RÜDESHEIM,RAUENTHAL,etc.Coastingforyrs,nowupforitwithabrand-newwinery.

Knipser,WeingutPfz★★★→★★★★Familyestatespecializinginbarrique-agedSPÄTBURGUNDER,CuvéeX(aBordeauxblend)andstructureddryRIES.GelberOrleans(fromanancientgrape)isasought-afterrarity.

PinotNoirgrewasearlyas884ADontheshoresofLake

ConstanceinsouthBaden.

Koehler-RuprechtPfz★★→★★★★97990102050708091011Entirelytraditionalwinemakingthatdeliversv.long-lived,dryRIESfromKallstadterSaumagen.Equallygdbarrel-agedSPÄTBURGUNDER.

KraichgauBadSmalldistrictsoutheastofHeidelberg.Topgrowers:BurgRavensburg/Heitlinger,HOENSBROECH,Hummel.

KreuzbergAhr★★★LudwigKreuzberghasmadeanameformineral,notoverlyalcoholic,distinctlycool-climateSPÄTBURGUNDERfromtheAHRValley.

Krone,WeingutRhg★★→★★★9799020506070809EstateinASSMANNSHAUSENwithsomeofthebestandoldestv’ydsintheGROSSELAGEHöllenberg.Famousforrichlyperfumed,age-ableSPÄTBURGUNDER.NowrunbyWEGELER.

Kühn,PeterJakobRhg★★★AnexcellentestateinOESTRICH.

Obsessivebiodynamicv’ydmanagementandlongmacerationsbringaboutnonconformistbutexcitingRIES.

Kuhn,PhilippPfz★★★ReliableproducerinLaumersheim.DryRIESrichandharmonious;barrel-agedSPÄTBURGUNDERsucculent,powerfulandcomplex.

KünstlerRhg★★★909701050809101112UncompromisingGunterKünstlerproducessuperbdryRIESinGROSSELAGEsitesatHOCHHEIM,Kostheim,and,newly,ontheothersideoftheRHEINGAUatRÜDESHEIM(Roseneck,Rottland).AlsoexcellentAUSLESEandfirmSPÄTBURGUNDER.

Laible,Alexander★★→★★★NewestateatDURBACH,foundedbyANDREASLAIBLE’syoungerson,aromaticdryRIESandWEISSBURGUNDER.Thev’ydslie48kmaway,nrBaden-BadenandLahr.

Laible,AndreasBad★★★CrystallinedryRIESfromDURBACH’sPlauelrainv’ydandgdSCHEUREBEandGEWÜRZ.AndreasSrhas

nowhandedovertoAndreasJr.LandweinNow“ggA”.SeeboxGermany’squalitylevels.LangwerthvonSimmernRhg★★→★★★AfamousEltville

estate,withtraditionalwinemaking.Topv’ydsincl:Baiken,Mannberg(monopoly),MARCOBRUNN.Nowbackonform.

LauerM-S-R★★★FlorianLauerworkshardtocorrecttheerrorsofthe1971winelaw–withparcelselectionsfromthehugeAYLerKuppv’yd.Best:Schonfels,Stirn,Unterstenberg.

TheaverageyieldofGermany’svineyardsis94hl/ha(2011).

Leitz,JosefRhg★★★GrowingRÜDESHEIMfamilyestateforrichbutelegantdryandsweetRIES,espfromclassifiedv’ydsintheRüdesheimerBerg.

LeiwenM-M★★→★★★VillageneighbouringTRITTENHEIMwithGROSSELAGELaurentiuslay.GRANS-FASSIAN,CARLLOEWEN,

Rosch,SANKTURBANS-HOFhaveputtheseonce-overlookedv’ydsfirmlyonthemap.

Liebfrauenstift-KirchenstückRhhAwalledv’ydincityofWormsproducingfloweryRIESrenownedforitsharmony.Producers:Gutzler,Schembs.NottobeconfusedwithLiebfrau(en)milch,acheapandtastelessimitation.

Loewen,CarlM-S-R★★★DensebutelegantRies,bothdryandsweet,fromLEIWEN(GROSSELAGELaurentiuslay),andfromThörnicherRitsch,av’ydLoewenrescuedfromobscurity.

Loosen,WeingutDr.M-M★★→★★★★909701020405070809101112CharismaticErnieLoosenproducescomplexandsublimeRIESfromoldvinesinBERNKASTEL,ERDEN,GRAACH,ÜRZIG,WEHLEN.ReliableDr.LRies,frombought-ingrapes.Joint-ventureRiesfromWashingtonStatewithChateauSteMichelle.SeealsoWOLFinthePFALZ.

LorchRhg★→★★★Villageintheextremewestofthe

RHEINGAU.Nowrediscoveredforitsmineral,austereRIESandSPÄTBURGUNDER.Best:ChatSauvage,Fricke,Johanninger,vonKanitz,KESSELER.

Löwenstein,FürstFrank,Rhg★★★TangySILVANERandRIESfromhistoricHomburgerKallmuth–v.dramaticslopewith12kmofstonewallsinthev’yd.AlsoownsRHEINGAUestateinHallgarten.PrinceCarlFriedrichLöwensteindiedin2010;hiswidowhastakenover.

MarcobrunnRhgHistoricv’ydinErbach;potentiallyoneofGermany’sv.best.Contemporarywinesscarcelymatchthisv’yd’spastfame.

MarkgräflerlandBadDistrictsouthofFreiburg.TypicalGUTEDELwinecanberefreshingwhendrunkv.young.

MaximinGrünhausM-S-R★★★★909395969798990105070809101112SupremeRUWERestateatMertesdorf,knownforRIESofdelicacyandlongevity,bothdryandsweet.

Meyer-NäkelAhr★★★→★★★★Father-daughterteammakefineAHRSPÄTBURGUNDERthatexemplifyamodern,oak-aged(butneverthelessmineral)style.

MittelhaardtPfzThenorth-centralandbestpartofthePFALZ,inclDEIDESHEIM,FORST,RUPPERTSBERG,WACHENHEIM;largelyplantedwithRIES.

MittelmoselM-MThecentralandbestpartoftheMOSEL,inclBERNKASTEL,PIESPORT,WEHLEN,etc.Itstopsitesare(orshouldbe)entirelyRIES.

NewEUterminologyGermany’spartinthenewEUclassificationinvolves,firstly,abolishingthetermTafelweininfavourofplainWeinandsecondlychangingLANDWEINto“ggA”:geschütztegeographischeAngabe,orProtectedGeographicalIndication.

QUALITÄTSWEINandQUALITÄTSWEINMITPRÄDIKATwillbereplacedby“gU”:geschützteUrsprungsbezeichnung,orProtectedDesignationofOrigin.Theexistingterms–SPÄTLESE,AUSLESEandsoon(seeboxGermany’squalitylevels)–willbetackedontogUwhereappropriate;therulesforthesestyleswon’tchange.

MittelrheinNorthernanddramaticallyscenicRhineareapopularwithtourists.BACHARACHandBOPPARDarethemostimportantvillages.DelicateyetsteelyRies,underratedandunderpriced.Manygdsitesliefallow.

Molitor,MarkusM-M★★★Outstandingv’ydsthroughoutMITTELMOSEL;tremendouswinelist.MagisterialsweetRIESandacclaimed,well-ageingSPÄTBURGUNDER.

MosbacherPfz★★★SomeofbestGROSSESGEWÄCHSRIESof

FORST.Winesaretraditionallyagedinbigoakcasks.Mosel-Saar-RuwerM-S-RRegionbetweenSaarburgandKoblenz;

inclMITTELMOSEL,RUWER,SAAR;60%RIES.From2007,winesfromthethreeregionscanbelabelledsimplyasMosel.

Moselland,WinzergenossenschaftM-S-RHugeMOSEL-SAAR-RUWERco-op,atBERNKASTEL,aftermergerswithco-opsintheNAHEandPFALZnow3,290members,withacollective2,400ha.Littleisabove-average.

Müller-Catoir,WeingutPfz★★→★★★AgedAUSLESEn,BAandTBA(8390979801)canbedelicious;youngervintages(since2002)arekeptinalighterstyle.

NackenheimRhh★→★★★★9097010508091112NIERSTEINneighbourwithGROSSELAGERothenbergonredshale,famousforRHEINHESSEN’srichestRIES,superbTBA.Topgrowers:GUNDERLOCH,Kühling-Gillot.

Nahe(r)w0105070809101112TributaryoftheriverRhine

andahigh-qualityregion.RIEScanhaveMOSEL-likemineralityandPFALZ-likefruit.EISWEINisagrowingspeciality.

Neipperg,GrafvonWürt★★★AnobleestateinSchwaigernproducingreds(LEMBERGER,SPÄTBURGUNDER)ofgraceandpurity.Ascionofthefamily,CountStephanvonNeipperg,makeswineatChâteauCanonlaGaffelièreinBordeauxandelsewhere.

NiederhausenNa★★→★★★★90979901020405070809101112VillageofthemiddleNAHEValley.ComplexRIESfromsteep,slopingGROSSELAGEv’yds:Felsensteyer,Hermannsberg,Hermannshöhle,Kertz.Growers:CRUSIUS,DÖNNHOFF,GutHermannsberg,Mathern,vonRacknitz.

NiersteinRhh★→★★★★9097010405070809101112RichbutbalancedRIES,bothdryandsweet,thatneedtobeaged.GROSSELAGEv’yds:Brudersberg,Hipping,Oelberg,Orbel,Pettenthal.Growersincl:Gehring,GUNDERLOCH,Guntrum,HEYL

ZUHERRNSHEIM,Kühling-Gillot,Manz,Schätzel,ST-ANTONY,Strub.BewareGROSSLAGEGutesDomtal:asupermarketdeception.

OckfenM-S-R★★→★★★909397010405070809101112Villagethatbringsaboutsturdy,intenseSAARRIESfromGROSSELAGEv’ydBockstein.Growers:OTHEGRAVEN,SANKTURBANS-HOF,WAGNER,ZILLIKEN.

OechsleScaleforsugarcontentofgrapejuice.OestrichRhg★★→★★★9701020405070809101112Big

village;variable,butsomesplendidRIES.GROSSELAGEv’yds:Doosberg,Lenchen,St.Nikolaus.Topgrowers:AugustEser,PETERJAKOBKÜHN,Querbach,SPREITZER,WEGELER.

OppenheimRhh★→★★★TownsouthofNIERSTEIN,GROSSELAGEKreuzandSackträger.Growersincl:Heyden,Kissinger,Kühling-GillotandManz.Spectacular13th-centurychurch.

Rentforavineyardonflatlandisfourtimesmoreexpensivethanforoneonasteepslope.Despitethefacttheslope’swinewillbebetternobodywantsthelabour.

OrtenauBad(r)wDistrictaroundandsouthofBaden-Baden.GdKlingelberger(RIES)andSPÄTBURGUNDER,mainlyfromgranitesoils.Topvillagesincl:DURBACH,Neuweier,Waldulm.

Ortswein2ndrankupinVDP’squalitypyramid:villagewine,ratherthansinglev’yd.

Othegraven,WeingutvonM-S-R★★★0105070809101112Since2010,thisfineKANZEM(SAAR)estatewithitssuperbGROSSELAGEAltenbergisledbyTVstarGüntherJauch,whoisamemberofthevonOthegravenfamily.AlsoparcelsinOCKFEN(Bockstein)and,newly,intheforgottenHerrenbergatWawern.

PalatinatePfzEnglishforPFALZ.Pfalzrw90970105070809101112Usuallybalmyregion

borderingAlsaceinthesouthandRHEINHESSENtothenorth.ItsMITTELHAARDTareaisthesourceoffull-bodied,mostlydryRIES.SoutherlySÜDLICHEWEINSTRASSEisbetter-suitedtoPINOTvarieties,espSPÄTBURGUNDER.

PiesportM-M★→★★★★9092970102030405070809101112TinyvillagewithfamousvineamphitheatreofGROSSELAGEv’yds(Domherr,Goldtröpfchen,Kreuzwingert,Schubertslay).Atbestglorious,rich,aromaticRIES.AvoidGROSSLAGEMichelsberg.EspgdareGRANS-FASSIAN,JohHaart,RHAART,KurtHain,KESSELSTATT,SANKTURBANS-HOF.

PrädikatSpecialattributesorqualities.SeeQMP.PrinzvonHessenRhg★★★→★★★★Gloriouswinesof

vibrancyandprecisionfromthishistoricJOHANNISBERGestate.Prüm,JJM-S-R★★★★717683888990949596979899

0102030405070809101112LegendaryWEHLENestate;alsoGRAACHandBERNKASTEL.Delicatebutlong-livedwines

withastonishingfinesseanddistinctivecharacterthroughlonglees-ageing.Dr.ManfredPrümnowjoinedbydaughterKatharina.

Prüm,SAM-S-R★★→★★★MorepopularandlesstraditionalinstylethanWEHLENneighbourJJPRÜM.Sound,ifsometimesinconsistentwines.

QualitätsweinbestimmterAnbaugebiete(QbA)ThemiddlequalityofGermanwine,withsugaraddedbeforefermentation(inasimilarwaytoFrenchchaptalization),butcontrolledastoareas,grapes,etc.Itsnewname:gU(seeboxGermany’squalitylevels)islittleimprovement.

QualitätsweinmitPrädikat(QmP)Topcategory,forallwinesripeenoughnottoneedsugaring(KABINETTtoTBA).

RandersackerFrank★★→★★★VillagesouthofWÜRZBURGfordistinctivedryRIESandSILVANER.ClassifiedasGROSSELAGE:Pfülben.Topgrowers:BÜRGERSPITAL,JULIUSSPITAL,

STAATLICHERHOFKELLER,SCHMITT’SKINDER,Störrlein&Krenig.RatzenbergerMRh★★→★★★Estatemakingracydryand

off-dryRIESinBACHARACH;bestfromGROSSELAGEv’yds:PostenandSteegerSt-Jost.GdSEKT,too.

RauenthalRhg★★→★★★★9701020405070809101112Spicy,austerebutcomplexRiesfrominlandslopes.GROSSELAGEv’yds:Baiken,Rothenberg.Topgrowers:BREUER(withmonopolyNonnenberg),KLOSTEREBERBACH,AEser,LANGWERTHVONSIMMERN.

Rebholz,ÖkonomieratPfz★★★→★★★★97990001020405070809101112TopSÜDLICHEWEINSTRASSEestateknownforbone-dry,minerallyRIES(eg.GROSSESGEWÄCHSKastanienbusch,Ganshorn);focusedCHARD;tight,age-worthySPÄTBURGUNDER.

ReparaturweinWine-grower’sjargonforasimple,lightandslightlyacidicwhitesuitableto“repair”thepalateafteran

exhaustingtasting.Notseenonlabels.RestsüsseUnfermentedgrapesugarremainingin(orincheapwines

addedto)winetogiveitsweetness.Canrangefrom1g/litreinaTROCKENwineto300ginaTBA.

Rheingau(r)w909799010405070809101112TheonlyRhineregionwithsouth-facingslopesborderingtheriver.Classic,substantialRIES,famousforsteelyacidity.Afteryrsofcontroversies,theregionmightnowreplaceitsERSTESGEWÄCHSdefinition(datingfrom2000)bytheGROSSESGEWÄCHSrulesthatapplyeverywhereelseinGermany.

Rheinhessen(r)w050708091011Germany’slargestregion,betweenMainzandWorms.Muchdross,butincltopRIESfromNACKENHEIM,NIERSTEIN,etc.Remarkablespurtinqualityinformerlyunknownareas,fromgrowerssuchasKELLERandWITTMANNinthesouthandWAGNER-STEMPELinthewest

Richter,WeingutMaxFerdM-M★★→★★★Reliable

MITTELMOSELestate,atMülheim.EspgdRIESKABINETTandSPÄTLESEn–fullandaromatic.Winesfrompurchasedgrapescarryaslightlydifferentlabel.

Ruck,JohannFrank★★→★★★ReliableandspicySILVANERandRIESfromIPHOFENinFRANKEN’sSTEIGERWALDdistrict.Traditionalandbone-dryinstyle.

RüdesheimRhg★★→★★★★9097010405070809101112RhineresortwithoutstandingGROSSELAGEv’ydsonslate;thefourbest(Roseneck,Rottland,Schlossberg,Kaisersteinfels)arecalledRüdesheimerBerg.Full-bodied,fine-flavoured,oftenremarkableinoff-yrs.Best:BREUER,ChatSauvage,Corvers-Kauter,JOHANNISHOF,KESSELER,KLOSTEREBERBACH,KÜNSTLER,LEITZ,Ress,SchlossSchönborn.

RuppertsbergPfz★★→★★★909701050708091011MITTELHAARDTvillage,lighterwinesthaninneighbouringvillages.Growersincl:BASSERMANN-JORDAN,Biffar,BUHL,

BÜRKLIN-WOLF,CHRISTMANN,DR.DEINHARD/VONWINNING.

AnnualproductionofGrossesGewächsandErstesGewächs:c.1millionbottles.

RuwerM-S-Rw9097990102030405070809101112TributaryofMoselnrTrier,renownedforquaffabledryRIES.Delicate,long-livedsweetwines,too.Bestgrowers:Beulwitz,KARLSMÜHLE,KARTHÄUSERHOF,KESSELSTATT,MAXIMINGRÜNHAUS.

Saale-Unstrutw0305070809101112NortherlyregionaroundconfluenceofthesetworiversatNaumburg,nrLeipzig.Terracedv’ydsofWEISSBURGUNDER,SILVANER,GEWÜRZ,RIES,SPÄTBURGUNDERhaveCistercianorigins.Qualityleaders:BÖHME,Born,Gussek,KlosterPforta,Lützkendorf,Pawis.

SaarM-S-Rw909394979901020405070809101112Hill-linedtributaryoftheMOSEL,colderclimate.Themostbrilliant,

austere,steelyRIESofall.Villagesincl:AYL,KANZEM,OCKFEN,Saarburg,Serrig,WILTINGEN(SCHARZHOFBERG).Manyfineestateshere,mostatthetopoftheirgame.

SaarburgM-S-RSmalltownintheSAARValley,Rauschv’ydisoneofthebestoftheregion.Bestgrowers:WAGNER,ZILLIKEN.

Sachsenw03050809101112RegionintheElbeValleyaroundDresdenandMeissen.CharacterfuldrywhitesfromWEISSBURGUNDER,GRAUBURGUNDER,TRAMINER,RIES.Bestgrowers:VincenzRichter,SCHLOSSPROSCHWITZ,SchlossWackerbarth,MartinSchwarz,Zimmerling.

St-AntonyRhh★★→★★★NIERSTEINestatewithexceptionalv’yds.Improvementsthroughnewowner(sameasHEYLZUHERRNSHEIM)resultinv.gd2011s.Entry-levellabelBodenschatzisabargain.

Salm,PrinzzuNa,RhhOwnerofSchlossWallhausen★★→★★★inNAHEandVillaSachsen★→★★in

RHEINHESSEN.RIESatSchlossWallhausen(organic)hasmadegdprogressrecently;recommendablemid-pricelabels:VomRotenSchieferandGrünschiefer.

SalweyBad★★★LeadingestateatOberrotweil.KonradSalweyadvocatesearlypickingforhistopKAISERSTUHLsites,topreservefreshnessandbalance.Best:HenkenbergandEichbergGRAUBURGUNDER,KirchbergSPÄTBURGUNDERRappen(fermentedwithstems).AlsoWEISSHERBSTfromv’ydsintheGlottertal,aBlackForestvalleyat450-metrealtitude.

SanktUrbans-HofM-S-R★★★→★★★★LargefamilyestatebasedinLEIWEN,v’ydsalongMiddleMoselandSAAR.LimpidRIESofimpeccablepurityandraciness(eg.2011WILTINGERKABINETTFEINHERBALTEREBEN).

Sauer,HorstFrank★★★→★★★★ThefinestexponentofESCHERNDORF’stopv’ydLump.Racy,straightforwarddrySilvanerandRIESandsensationalTBA.Glorious2011s.

Goingbackwards,fastIfyou’redrivinginGermany,bewareofwine-growersinreverse.Why?Becausethenarrowfarmroadsthatleadtosteep,slopingv’ydsareoftendeadends,andmaynothaveturningspace.Sothegrowerssimplyreverseout,fast.Ifthey’vegotpassengersitturnsintoasport:fullthrottle,withrocksononesideandasteepslopeontheother,foracoupleofkm.They’vegottheknackofit.Wehope.

Sauer,RainerFrank★★★ArisingfamilyestateatESCHERNDORF(seeHORSTSAUER).ComplexdrySILVANER–fromelegantandmineralKABINETTtocreamy,full-bodiedSPÄTLESEn.

Schaefer,WilliM-S-R★★★ThefinestgrowerofGRAACH(butonly4ha).MOSELRIESatitsbest:pure,crystallineandfeather-light,rewardingatallqualitylevels.

Schäfer-FröhlichNa★★★IncreasinglybrilliantRIES,dryandnoblysweet,fromthisestateinBockenau,NAHE.Superb2010GrossesGewächsFelseneckandbreathtakingEISWEIN.

ScharzhofbergM-S-R★★★★7183888990939495969799010405070809101112SuperlativeSAARv’yd:ararecoincidenceofmicroclimate,soilandhumanintelligencebringsabouttheperfectionofRIES.Topestates:BISCHÖFLICHEWEINGÜTER,EGONMÜLLER,VONHÖVEL,REICHSGRAFVONKESSELSTATT,VANVOLXEM.

SchlossböckelheimNa★★→★★★★909701020405070809101112AvillagewithtopNAHEv’yds,inclGROSSELAGEFelsenbergandKupfergrube.Firm,demandingRIESthatageswell.Topgrowersincl:CRUSIUS,DÖNNHOFF,GutHermannsberg,SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH.

SchlossJohannisbergRhg★★→★★★909701020405070809101112FamousRHEINGAUestate,100%RIES,ownedby

Henkell(Oetkergroup).Usuallyv.gdSPÄTLESEGrünlack(greensealing-wax)andAUSLESERosalack,qualityoftheTROCKENandFEINHERBwinesmorevariable.

SchlossLieserM-M★★★→★★★★ThomasHaagproducespure,racyRIESfromunderratedNiederbergHeldenv’yd,aswellasfromplotsinBRAUNEBERG.Lookoutforbrilliant2010Juffer-SonnenuhrSPÄTLESEandpreciseandplayful2011SLQUALITÄTSWEINTROCKEN.

SchlossNeuweierBad★★★LeadingproducerofdryRIESfromvolcanicsoilsnrBaden-Baden.Newownersince2012.

SchlossProschwitzSachs★★AresurrectedprincelyestateatMeisseninSACHSEN,leadingformerEastGermanyinquality;espwithdryWEISSBURGUNDERandGRAUBURGUNDER.Agreatsuccess.

SchlossReinhartshausenRhg★★→★★★EstateinErbach,HATTENHEIM,KIEDRICH,etc.OriginallyownedbyPrussianroyal

family,nowincompetentprivatehands.SchlossSaarsteinM-S-R★→★★★909701050708091011

12Steepbutchillyv’ydsinSerrigneedwarmyrstosucceedbutcandeliversteely,minerallyandlong-livedAUSLESEandEISWEIN.

SchlossVollradsRhg★★OneofthegreatesthistoricRHEINGAUestates,nowownedbyabank.RIESinarathercommercialstyle.

Schmitt’sKinderFrank★★→★★★UncompromisingTROCKENwinesfromRANDERSACKER’sbestv’yds.TextbookFRANKENSILVANERandRIES.Gdbarrel-agedSPÄTBURGUNDERandsweetRIESLANER,too.

SchnaitmannWürt★★★Excellentbarrel-agedredsfromWÜRTTEMBERG,suchasSPÄTBURGUNDERandLEMBERGERfromtheGROSSELAGELämmlerv’yd.Inconversiontoorganicfarming.

Schneider,CorneliaandReinholdBad★★→★★★Family

estateinEndingen,KAISERSTUHL.Age-worthySPÄTBURGUNDERs(00010205070809)discernedbyletters–Rforvolcanicsoil,CforLoess–andold-fashioned,opulentRULÄNDER.

SchoppenweinCafé(orbar)wine,ie.winebytheglass.SchwarzerAdler,WeingutBad★★→★★★FritzKellerrunsa

one-starrestaurantatOberbergeninKAISERSTUHL,andmakesburgundy-influencedGRAU-,WEISS-andSPÄTBURGUNDER.

Schwegler,AlbrechtWürt★★★Smallestateknownforgd,unusualredblends,suchasGranat(MERLOT,ZWEIGELT,LEMBERGERandothers).Worthlookingfor.

SchweigenPfz★★AsouthernPFALZvillage.BestgrowersinclFRIEDRICHBECKER,Bernhart,Jülg.

SektGermansparklingwine,whichisv.variableinquality.Bottlefermentationisnotmandatory.SektspecialistsinclRaumland,Schembs,SchlossVaux,SSteinmetz,Wilhelmshof.

Germany’smostcommonvineyardnameisSchlossberg;90villageshave“castlehills”.

Selbach-OsterM-M★★★ScrupulousZELTINGENestateamongMITTELMOSELleaders.Alsomakeswinefrompurchasedgrapes:estatebottlingsarebest.

SonnenuhrM-S-RSundial.Nameofseveralv’yds,espGROSSELAGEsitesatWEHLENandZELTINGENsoontobeovershadowedbynewAutobahnbridge.

SpätleseLate-harvest.Onebetter(riper,withmoresubstanceandusuallymoresweetness)thanKABINETT.Gdexamplesageatleast7yrs,oftenlonger.TROCKENSpätlesen,oftensimilarinstyletoGROSSESGEWÄCHS,canbev.finewithfood.

SpreitzerRhg★★★AndreasandBerndSpreitzerproducedeliciouslyracyRIES,vinifiedwithpatienceinFUDERcasks.2011OESTRICHDoosbergKABINETTTROCKENshowsthe

subtlenessoftheKabinettcategoryatitsbest.StaatlicherHofkellerFrank★★TheBavarianstatedomain.

120haofthefinestFRANKENv’yds,withspectacularcellarsunderthegreatbaroqueResidenzatWÜRZBURG.Qualitysoundbutrarelyexciting.

Staatsweingut/StaatlicheWeinbaudomäneThestatewineestatesordomains.Somehavebeenprivatizedinrecentyrs.

SteigerwaldFrank(r)wDistrictineasternFRANKEN.V’ydsatconsiderablealtitude;powerfulSILVANERandRIES.Best:CASTELL’SCHESFÜRSTLICHESDOMÄNENAMT,Roth,RUCK,WELTNER,WIRSCHING.

SteinbergRhg★★★9097010405070809101112FamousHATTENHEIMwalledRIESv’yd,aGermanClosdeVougeot,plantedbyCistercianmonks700yrsago.NowamonopolyofKLOSTEREBERBACH.

SteinweinFrankWinefromWÜRZBURG’sbestv’yd,Stein.Goethe’s

favourite,too.StoddenAhr★★★BurgundyenthusiastGerhardStoddencrafts

richlyoakyAHRSPÄTBURGUNDER.First-ratesince1999,butv.pricey.

SüdlicheWeinstrassePfzrwDistrictnameforsouthPFALZ.Qualityhasimprovedtremendouslyinpast25yrs.Bestgrowers:BECKER,Leiner,Münzberg,REBHOLZ,Siegrist,WEHRHEIM.

TauberfrankenBad(r)wUnderratedcool-climatedistrictofnortheastBADEN:FRANKEN-styleSILVANERandRIESfromlimestonesoils.Frostaproblem.Bestgrower:Schlör.

Thanisch,WeingutDr.M-M★★→★★★BERNKASTELestate,founded1636,famousforitsshareoftheDoctorv’yd.Afterfamilysplit-upin1988,twohomonymousestates:ErbenMüller-Burggraefidentifiestheone,ErbenThanischtheother.Similarinqualitybutthelattersometimeshastheedge.

TraisenNa★★★90970105070809101112SmallNAHEvillage,inclGROSSELAGEv’ydsBasteiandRotenfels.RIESofconcentrationandclassfromvolcanicsoils.Topgrowers:CRUSIUS,vonRacknitz.

Someschistrockissobrittlethatitcaneasilybesplitwithafingernail.

TrierM-S-RGreatcityofRomanorigin,onMOSEL,betweenRUWERandSAAR.BigcharitableestateshavecellarshereamongsplendidRomanremains.

TrittenheimM-M★★→★★★909701020405070809101112AttractiveMITTELMOSELlightwines.However,onlybestplotsinGROSSELAGEv’ydApothekedeservethatclassification.GrowersinclACLÜSSERATH,EClüsserath,CLÜSSERATH-WEILER,GRANS-FASSIAN,Milz.

TrockenDry.Max9gunfermentedsugar/litre.Qualityhas

increaseddramaticallysincethe1980s.MostdependableinPFALZandallpointssouth.

Trockenbeerenauslese(TBA)Sweetest,mostexpensivecategoryofGermanwine,extremelyrare,withconcentratedhoneyflavour.Madefromselectedshrivelledgrapesaffectedbynoblerot(botrytis).Half-bottlesagdidea.

ÜrzigM-M★★★★718390939495969701020405070809101112Villageonredsandstoneandredslate,famousforfullandspicyRIES,unlikeotherMOSELs.GROSSELAGEv’yd:Würzgarten.GrowersinclBerres,Erbes,Christoffel,LOOSEN,Mönchhof,Pauly-Bergweiler,WEINS-PRÜM.ThreatenedbyanunneededAutobahnbridge160metreshigh.

VanVolxemM-S-R★★→★★★EstaterevivedbybreweryheirRomanNiewodniczanski(since1999).V.lowyieldsfromtopsites(SCHARZHOFBERG,KANZEMAltenberg)resultinultra-ripe,atypicalbutimpressiveRIES.

VDP(VerbandDeutscherPrädikatsweingüter)Apace-makingassociationofpremiumgrowers.Lookforitseagleinsigniaonwinelabels,andfortheGROSSELAGElogoonwinesfromclassifiedv’yds.AVDPwineisusuallyagdbet.President:SteffenCHRISTMANN.

VollenweiderM-S-R★★★DanielVollenweiderfromSwitzerlandhasrevivedtheWolferGoldgrubev’ydnrTraben-Trarbach(since2000).ExcellentRies,butv.smallquantities.

WachenheimPfz★★★Villagewith,accordingtoVDP,noGROSSELAGEv’yds.Topgrowers:Biffar,BÜRKLIN-WOLF,Odinstal,KarlSchäfer,WOLF.

Wagner,Dr.M-S-R★★→★★★Estatewithv’ydsinOCKFENandSaarsteinledbyyoungGEISENHEIMgraduateChristianeWagner.Splendid2011s:TrySaarburgerRauschJosephHeinrichSPÄTLESEFEINHERB,orOckfenerBocksteinAUSLESE.

Wagner-StempelRhh★★★Estate,50%RIES,inRHEINHESSENnr

NAHEborderinobscureSiefersheim.Recentyrshaveprovidedexcellentwines,bothGROSSESGEWÄCHSandnoblysweet.

WallufRhg★★★90929496979901020405070809101112TheneighbourofEltville.Thewinesareunderrated.GROSSELAGEv’yd:Walkenberg.Growersincl:JBBECKER,JOST.

WegelerM-M,Rhg★★→★★★ImportantfamilyestatesinOESTRICHandBERNKASTEL,plusastakeinthefamousKRONEestateofASSMANNSHAUSEN.Winesofhighqualityingdquantity.“GeheimratJ”brandwasdryRiespioneerandmaintainsv.highstandards.

WehlenM-M★★★→★★★★909394959697980102030405070809101112BERNKASTELneighbourwithequallyfine,somewhatricherwineandalmostnoweakvintageslately.GROSSELAGE:SONNENUHR.Topgrowers:Kerpen,KESSELSTATT,LOOSEN,MOLITOR,JJPRÜM,SAPRÜM,RICHTER,Studert-Prüm,SELBACH-OSTER,WEGELER,WEINS-PRÜM.V’ydssoontobe

overshadowedbyAutobahnbridge.Wehrheim,WeingutDr.Pfz★★★Topfamilyestateof

SÜDLICHEWEINSTRASSE.Full-bodied,v.drywineswithafirm,mineralcore,eg.RIESandSPÄTBURGUNDERfromGROSSELAGEKastanienbusch.

Weil,RobertRhg★★★→★★★★1737495975909701020405070809101112OutstandingestateinKIEDRICHownedbySuntoryofJapan.SuperbEISWEIN,TBA,BA;entrylevelwinesmorevariable.Gräfenbergisthebestofthreeclassifiedv’yds.

WeingartMRh★★★OutstandingestateatSpay,withv’ydsinBOPPARD.Refined,minerallyRIES,low-techinstyle,superbvalue.

WeingutWineestate.Weins-Prüm,Dr.M-M★★★Asmallestate;basedatWEHLEN.

Superbv’ydsinMITTELMOSEL.ScrupulouswinemakingfromownerBertSelbach,whofavoursataut,minerallystyle.

TheGermanPinotNoirmiracleInthelast25yrs,GermanSPÄTBURGUNDERshavedevelopedfromsmall,thinwinestoserious,age-worthyreds.Lessproductiveclones,betterv’ydmanagement,refinedvinificationandunderstandingoakwerethekeys.Todaythereisalonglistoftopproducers:FÜRST(unparalleledfinesse),BECKER,REBHOLZ,Philippi(KOEHLER-RUPRECHT),SeegerandKÜNSTLER(tannicdepth),KNIPSER,KUHN(eleganceandsucculence).Inaclassoftheirownarethosefromslatesoils:sharplymineral,withspicyfruit,asinASSMANNSHAUSEN(KRONE,KESSELER,KLOSTEREBERBACH),theAHR(Adeneuer,Deutzerhof,KREUZBERG,MEYER-NÄKEL,Nelles,Schumacher,STODDEN)–andeventheMIDDLEMOSEL(MOLITOR).Integrationofintenseberryfruitandoak:SCHNAITMANNandHUBER.ClosesttoBurgundy,geographicallyaswellasinstyle:ZIEREISEN,SCHNEIDER,SCHWARZERADLERandSALWEY.Andtherearedozensofothers.

WorthtastingareBERCHER,BÜRGERSPITAL,CHRISTMANN,Dörflinger,ELLWANGER,Gutzler,HEGER,Hummel,Kleinmann,Konstanzer,NEIPPERG,Lehnert-Veit,Montigny,Rings,Schembs,Scherner-Kleinhanns,ClausSchneider,SCHMITTSKINDER,FWassmer,MWassmer.

WeissherbstPale-pinkwine,sometimesbotrytis-affectedbutmostlydryoroff-dry,madefromasinglevariety,oftenSPÄTBURGUNDER.V.variablequality.

Weltner,PaulFrank★★→★★★STEIGERWALDfamilyestate.Denselystructured,age-worthySILVANERfromunderratedRödelseerKüchenmeisterv’ydandneighbouringplotsatIPHOFEN.

WiltingenM-S-R★★→★★★★9097010405070809101112HeartlandoftheSAAR.FamousSCHARZHOFBERGcrownsa

seriesofGROSSELAGEv’yds(BrauneKupp,Kupp,Braunfels,Gottesfuss).Topgrowers:BISCHÖFLICHEWEINGÜTER,LEGALLAIS,EGONMÜLLER,KESSELSTATT,SANKTURBANS-HOF,Vols,VANVOLXEM.

Winning,vonPfz★★★NewDEIDESHEIMestate,inclformerDR.DEINHARD.ThevonWinninglabelisusedfortopwinesfromDr.Deinhardv’yds.Firstvintage2008:Riesofgreatpurityandterroirexpression,slightlyinfluencedbyfermentationinnewFUDERcasks.Alabeltowatch.

WinningenM-S-R★★→★★★LowerMOSELtownnrKoblenz;excellentdryRIESandTBA.GROSSELAGEv’yds:Röttgen,Uhlen.Topgrowers:HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN,KNEBEL,Kröber,RichardRichter.

Wirsching,HansFrank★★★EstateinIPHOFEN,FRANKEN.DryRIESandSilvaner,powerfulandlong-lived.GROSSELAGEv’yds:Julius-Echter-Berg,Kronsberg.

WittmannRhh★★★PhilippWittmannhaspropelledthisorganicestatetothetopranks(since1999).Crystal-clear,mineral,dryRIESfromQBAtoGROSSESGEWÄCHSandmagnificentTBA.

WöhrwagWürt★★→★★★JustoutsideStuttgart,thisestateproducessucculentreds,butaboveallelegantdryRIESandbrilliantEISWEIN.

WolfJLPfz★★→★★★WACHENHEIMestate,leasedbyErnstLOOSENofBERNKASTEL.DryPFALZRIES(espForsterPechstein),soundandconsistentratherthandazzling.

Württembergr(w)05070809101112RedwineregionaroundStuttgartandHeilbronn,traditionallyproducinglightTROLLINGERwines–thesamegrapeasinAltoAdige’sKaltererSee.Butnowambitionsarerising,LEMBERGERandSPÄTBURGUNDERcanbev.gd.RIESneedsaltitudev’yds.

WürzburgFrank★★→★★★★0104050809101112Great

baroquecityontheMain,centreofFRANKENwine:dryRIESandespSILVANER.Classifiedv’yds:InnereLeiste,Stein,Stein-Harfe.Growersincl:BÜRGERSPITAL,JULIUSSPITAL,STAATLICHERHOFKELLER,WeingutamStein.

ZellM-S-R★→★★★Best-knownlowerMOSELvillage,espforawfulGROSSLAGE:SchwarzeKatz(BlackCat).Agdv’ydisMerlerKönigslay-Terrassen.Topgrower:Kallfelz.

ZeltingenM-M★★→★★★★TopbutsometimesunderratedMOSELvillagenrWEHLEN.LivelycrispRIES.GROSSELAGEv’yd:SONNENUHR.Topgrowersincl:MMOLITOR,JJPRÜM,SELBACH-OSTER.

ZiereisenBad★★★030405070809101112Ex-carpenterHans-PeterZiereisenofEfringen-KircheninMARKGRÄFLERLANDbelievesinspontaneousfermentations.Hiswhites(GUTEDEL,WEISS-andGRAUBURGUNDER,CHARD)rewardpatientcellaring.ButbestarehisSPÄTBURGUNDERsfromsmallv’ydplotswith

dialectnames:Schulen,Rhini.Jaspisisthenameforold-vineselections.

Zilliken,ForstmeisterGeltzM-S-R★★★→★★★★939495969701020405070809101112FormerestateofPrussianroyalforesteratSaarburgandOCKFEN,SAAR.ProducesintenselyminerallyRiesfromSaarburgRauschandOCKFENBockstein,inclsuperbAUSLESEandEISWEINwithexcellentageingpotential.

Amasculinedomain?Manyyoungwine-growerstakeovertheirfamilyestates,andmanyaredaughters.Well-trained,intelligentandversed,theyimbuethewinebusinesswithrefreshingnewenergy.Amongthem,tonameonlyafew,areCarolinBERGDOLT,TheresaBREUER,EvaClüsserath(ACLÜSSERATH),CarolineDIEL,CeciliaJOST,SylviaMännle

(HeinrichMännle,DURBACH),MeikeandDörteNäkel(MEYER-NÄKEL),TinaPfaffmann(Frankweiler,PFALZ),Dr.KatharinaPrüm(JJPRÜM),SaskiaPrüm(SAPRÜM),SandraSauer(HSAUER),AnnaHelenevonSchubert(MAXIMINGRÜNHAUS),CarolinSpanier-Gillot(Kühling-Gillot,Bodenheim,RHEINHESSEN),ChristianeStörrlein-Krenig(Störrlein,Randersacker,FRANKEN),ChristianeWAGNER,DorotheeZILLIKEN.EvaFricke,borninnorthernGermanywithnowine-relatedactivitywhatsoeverinherfamily,hasstartedasmallestateofherown,atLORCHintheRHEINGAU.Thetimeswhenestateswerecalled“XY&sons”seemtobeover.Andwhowouldregretthem?

Luxembourg

ThinkofLuxembourgwineasahalfwayhousebetweenGermanyandFrance.ItsRieslingsseemhalf-German,half-French:old-schoolAlsaceRieslingonthenose,withthelightnessandthesweet-and-sournotesofanoff-dryNahe.The1,270haofvinesalongtheMoselleLuxembourgeoiseare,however,amix.There’smoreRivaner(Müller-Thurgau,27%),Auxerrois(14%)andPinotGris(14%)thanRiesling(12%).AuxerroisisLuxembourg’sspeciality,andgoodexamples(eg.BechelsbergfromStronck-Pinnel,Sunnen-HoffmannorSchumacher-Lethal)showacomplexspiciness,rounderthanitsrelativePinotBlanc.ButpoorAuxerroisisjustsweetishandlean.PinotGrisusuallyhasmoreextractandmoredepth.Winelawdoesn’tdifferentiatebetweendryandoff-dry.Mostwhiteshavestrongacidityandsomesweetness.Acommon

termonlabels(butoflittlesignificance)is“PremierGrandCru”.Morereliablearecharterdesignations;DomaineetTradition,founded20yearsago,unitingsevenproducers,hasthemostcredibility.Growers-associationPrivatwenzer(PrivateWine-growers)setupacharterin2007,andChartaSchengenPrestigewasdesignedtoincludeproducersinneighbouringareasofGermanyandFrance.

There’salotofsparklingwine.CrémantdeLuxembourgcanbeanythingfromrefinedtorustic,cheaperversionstypicallytastinghalf-dryeveniflabelledbrut.Thebestcanbev.gdvalue–lookforHeritageBrutfromGales,StPierreetPaulBrutfromStronck-Pinnel,RieslingBrutfromLegill,MontmollinBrutfromDuhrFrères,BrutVintagefromClosdeRochers,BrutVintagefromBernard-Massard,orBrutTraditionfromSunnen-Hoffmann.Morepricey,andnearertoChampagnethanCrémant,isAliceHartmann’sGrandeCuvée.

AliceHartmann★★★091011PerfectionistinWormeldange.ComplexRIESfrombestRiesv’ydKoeppchen,inclparcelselectionsLaChapelleandLesTerrasses.DelicatePINOTN(ClosduKreutzerberg).Alsoownsv’ydsinBurgundy(St-Aubin),MiddleMosel(Trittenheim),andleasessmallplotinScharzhofberg.AlyDuhr★★★FamilyestateatAhn.V.gdPINOTGRfromMachtum(Ongkäfv’yd),gdoff-dryRIESfromAhn(NussbaumandPalmberg),elegantRiesVendageTardive.Culinarybarrel-agedPINOTBLANC.Gales★★→★★★(Comparatively)largebutreliableproduceratRemichunitingv’ydsofCavesStMartinwithfamilyestate.BestareCrémantandwhitesunderDomaineetTraditionlabel.CavesStMartinhasagoodseriescalledDeNosRochersandproducesChartaSchengen.It’sworthseeingtheoldcellarlabyrinth,dugintoashell-limestonemassif.Sunnen-Hoffmann★★→★★★FamilyestateatRemerschen,nowbiodynamic;textbookAUXERROISfromWintrange

Hammelsberg;gdRIES,Crémant,too.Moreproducersat★★→★★★ChâteaudeSchengen,Cepd’Or,ClosdeRochers,DuhrFrères/ClosMonVieuxMoulin,Ruppert,Schumacher-KnepperandStronck-Pinnel.Young,ambitiousproducerssettojointhetopclass:FränkKayl,Schmit-Fohl,ChâteauPauquéandPaulLegill.Othergdproducers:Krier-Welbes(organic),MathisBastian,CharlesDecker,Gloden&Fils,DomaineMathes,Schlink-Hoffeld.DomainesVinsmoselleisaunionofco-ops.PremiumlabelArt+Vincanbegd(eg.2011SchengenMarkusbergPinotGris),butonehastobeselective.

Spain&Portugal

GrimasSpain’snationalfinancesmaybe,thecountrycandefinitelycelebratethequalityanddiversityofitswines.Itcombinesqualityandconsistency,certainlylessvariousthanItaly’scrazykaleidoscope,butoftenprofoundlysatisfyingandgoodvalue.Bylettinglocalgrapevarietiesshinethrough(andrelyinglessoncostlyoak),Spain’smanyterroirsarebuildingdistinctidentities.Spainisnaturallyconservative,soitscustomerscanexperimentwithconfidence.Remember,too,thatinSherrySpainhastheworld’sgreatestwinebargains;snapthemup.

Portugal,alsoenduringtoughtimes,stilllacksanystrongimageabroadforitswineandfoodculture.Establishedglobalplayerscontinuetoflourishandinvest–NiepoortinBairrada,JoãoPortugalRamosintheDouro,nowVinhoVerde,perhapsnexttheAlgarve.Elsewhere,therecessionbites–notablyatValed’Algares,arisingstaralreadyfallen,itsvineyardssold.Ontheupside,anewgenerationofwinemakershasthecreativityandconfidencetoplay

Portugal’strumpcard:itsnativegrapevarieties.Youdon’thavetoremember(orpronounce)themtoenjoysomevividandseductivecharacters.

SPAIN

RecentRiojavintages2012Anotherveryhotyearrelievedbyrainattheend.Excellent

qualitybutoneofthelowestyieldsfortwodecades.2011Along,hotsummerwithhealthygrapes,butloweryieldsand

moreconcentratedfruitthan2010.2010Officiallyanexcelentevintage.Forgrowersitwasdisastrous

astheeconomiccrisismeantlowprices.Sooneforbuyers.2009Despitethehotsummerarepeatof2003wasavoided.Some

verygoodresults,withRiojasAltaandBajafaringbest.2008 Thebestarefreshandaromatic,alittlelowerinalcohol.2007Adifficultvintage;mostwinesarereadytodrinkwithbright,

freshfruit.

2006Winestodrinknow;fragrantwhenyoung,notbuilttolast.2005Astandoutvintageofthedecade,withwinestodrinkorkeep.

Someprefer2004;others2005.Trythemboth.2004Anoutstandingvintage,withwinesinbalanceandretaining

vibrantyoungfruit.2003 Theveryhotsummerspoiledthefreshnessofmuchfruit.

Drinkup.2002 Incontrastwith2001,winesareshowingpoorly.Drinkup.AaltoRibdelDr★★★→★★★★04’05060708Founded

1996,withtip-toppedigree.MarianoGarcíaisex-VEGASICILIA,aimstomakebestTINTOFINOinregion.PSisdense;builttolast.FamilywineriesareMAURO,Maurodos.

AbadíaRetuertaCyLr★★→★★★040506070809NextdoortoRIBERADELDUERO;famedforripe,modern-style,internationalvarieties,influentialwinemakers,andgrandhotel

inhistoricformermonastery.Winestotryincludegd-valueRívola;spicierSelecciónEspecial;100%TEMPRANILLOPagoNegralada;sumptuousSYRAHPagolaGarduña.

AlbetiNoyaCatrpwsp★★→★★★Pioneerandleaderinorganics.WideportfoliowithgdCAVA.

Alicanterwsw★→★★★TheLevantiscomingtolife.Allroundthecoastalfleshpots,andinthedesertinterior,newgenerationsarerevivingfamilyv’yds.ThisisredwinecountryledbyENRIQUEMENDOZA,BernabéNavarro,ARTADI’sElSequé,SierraSalinas.Don’tmissoutstandingsweetMOSCATELS,espGUTIÉRREZDELAVEGA;historicsweetMONASTRELLFONDILLÓN.

AliónRibdelDr★★★★0304’05’0607Themoremoderncousin,notthepoorrelation,ofVEGASICILIA.100%TINTOFINO,Neversoak,withdenseblackfruit.

ÁlvaroPalaciosPrir★★→★★★★Themanwhohadtheconfidencetochargesky-highpricesforPRIORATandsoputthe

regiononthemap.CaminsdelPriorat(09)isv.gdvalue,floral,introductiontoPriorat’scharms.LesTerrassesisbigger,spicier(07);FincaDofí(06)hasadarkundertoneofCABSAUV,SYRAH,MERLOT,CARIÑENA.Super-priceyL’Ermita(04)ispowerfulanddensefromlow-yieldingGARNACHA.AlsoseehisinfluenceinBIERZO,RIOJA.

ArtadiAlic,Nav,RAlar★★★04’050607OutstandingmodernRIOJAs:taut,powerfulsingle-v’ydElPisónneeds8–10yrs;asdoesspicy,smokyPagosViejos.V.gd,equallymodernElSequé(r)ALICANTE,andArtazuri(r,DYAp)NAVARRA.

BaigorriRAlarw★★★04’05’0607’08Winesasglamorousasthearchitecture,bothastatementofmodernRioja.Styleisemphatic,withprimaryblackfruits,boldtanninsandupbeatoak.Garage(seeFrance)winstheprizes.RESmoreapproachable.

Riojarevivessweettradition:DinastiaVivanco’sredblend,BodegasLoliCasado’ssweetViura.

BaróndeLeyRBrpw★→★★Modernwinesmadeinone-timeBenedictinemonastery.V.gd7Viñas,redblendofsevenvarieties,andDYArosado.

Báscula,LaAlic,RibdelD,Riorwsw★★Youngbrandofferingwinesinfashionableregions,eg.ALICANTE,JUMILLA,RIBERADELDUERO,RIOJA,TerraAlta,YECLA.SouthAfricanwinemakerBruceJackandBritishMWEdAdams.

BenjaminRomeoRiorw★★→★★★★FormerlyofARTADI,Romeoisanew-wavestar,makingwineswithpreciseexpressionofbush-vines.GdwhiteblendPredicador;rich,topwhiteQueBonitoCacareaba;well-pricedDYAred,Predicador.FlagshipredContador;“super-second”LaCuevadelContador.V.concentratedparcel,LaViñadeAndrés

Romeo.BeroniaRiorpw★★Atransformation.OwnerGONZÁLEZBYASS

investedinoakandwinemaking.TheresultisconfidentlyrevivedRES(0708),super-modern111a.C.(08);gdrosado.

Bierzorw★→★★★Slatesoils,acrunchyPinot-likered–Mencía–andetherealwhiteGODELLOhavebroughtyoungwinemakersbuzzing.Best:BodegadelAbad,DominiodeTares,DESCENDIENTESDEJPALACIOSinclgd-valuePetalos09,Gancedo,LunaBerberide.Peique,Pittacum.Also:CastroVentosaofinfluentialwinemakerRaúlPérez–histopwine:UltreiaStJacques08(r).

BinissalemMallrpw★★Best-knownMALLORCADOnortheastofPalma.Two-thirdsred,mainlytannicMantonegrogrape.Biniagual,Binigrau,MaciàBatle.

BodegaAcellar;awineshop;abusinessmaking,blendingand/orshippingwine.

BorsaoArar★★LeaderofGARNACHArevivalinCAMPODEBORJA,withwinessuperiortoformerrusticprofileofDO.TresPicosistopwine.

BrionesRAltSmallRiojanhilltoptownnrHaro,pepperedwithundergroundcellars.ProducersinclFINCAALLENDE,MiguelMerino.WorthadetourtotheDinastíaVivancowinemusuem.

CalatayudArarpw★→★★★RapidlyimprovingDOrediscoveringitsold-vineGARNACHA;sometimesblendedwithSYRAH.Best:BodegasAteca(seeJUANGIL),ElEscocésVolante(ScotsMWNorrelRobertson),espElPuño,ElJalón,Lobban(ElGorditoGarnachabyScotswinemakerPamelaGeddes),VirgéndelaSierra(CruzdePiedra).

CampodeBorjaArarpw★→★★★Pricescreepingupbutstillspot-onsourceofgd-valueDYAjuicyGARNACHAandTEMPRANILLO,eg.BodegasAragonesas,BORSAO.Topwine:AltoMoncayo’sAquilón.

CampoViejorpw★→★★RIOJA’sbiggestbrandandSpain’sfirstcarbon-neutralwinery.JuicyTEMPRANILLO,gd-valueRESandGRANRES.Top-of-the-rangeDominio.PartofPernodRicardgroup,whichalsoownsCalatrava-designedYsioswinery.AlsoCAVAproducer.

CanaryIslandsrpw★→★★V’ydsnotvisitedbyphylloxera;originalwines.NofewerthannineDOs.BestbetsarethedessertMALVASÍAsandMOSCATELS.ButlocaldrywinesfromwhiteLISTÁNandMarmajuelo,blackNegramollandVijariegoofferenjoyableoriginalflavours.

Capçanes,CellerdeCatrpwsw★→★★OneofSpain’stopco-ops.Great-value,expressivewinesfromMONTSANT.Alsoakosherspecialist.

CariñenaArarpw★→★★TheoneDOthatisalsothenameofagrapevariety.Solid,notexciting,butgdvalue;BodegasAñadasandVictoriaarereliable.

CastañoMurrpwsw★→★★PuttingYECLAonthemapwithv.fineMONASTRELL,fromvalueEspinaltoexcellentCasaCisca.DelicioussweetredDulce.

CastelldelRemeiCosdelSrpw★★→★★★Picturesquerestored18th-centuryestate.Gdwhiteblends:gd-valuevanillaandred-cherryGotimBru07TEMPRANILLO/MERLOT/CABSAUVblend;elegant,spicy1780;powerfulOda.

CastillayLeónrpw★→★★★Thereisplentytoenjoyfromthisregion,andoftengreatvalue:famousproducersandunknowns;famousgrapesandunknowns.DiscoverDOssuchasArribes(espLaSetera),BIERZO,CIGALES,TierradeLeón,TierradelVinodeZamora,plusqualityregionVallesdeBenavente.RedgrapesinclMENCÍA,JuanGarcía,PrietoPicudo,TINTADELPAÍS;whitesDoñaBlanca.Gd,deeplycolouredrosado.

CastilloPereladaEmp,Prirpwsp★→★★★Glamorousprojectwithlargeestate,hotel,summerconcertsandrapidly

improvingwines.GdCAVAsespGranClaustro;modernreds,inclExExMONASTRELL,FincaGarbetSYRAH.Rare12-yr-old,solera-agedGarnatxadel’Empordà.ExceptionalCasaGrandelSiurana,GranCruor(06),SYRAHblendfromPRIORAT.

CatalunyarpwspStilllessthanadecadeold(2004)thisvastDOcoversthewholeofCatalonia:seashore,mtnandin-between.ContainssomeofSpain’stopnames,inclTORRESandmuchelsebesides.

CavaSpain’straditional-methodsparklingisgettingbetter.MadeinPENEDÈS–inoraroundSanSadurníd’Anoia–butthetermappliestoanumberofotherregions,inclRIOJA(espMUGACondedeHaro).MarketleadersareFREIXENETandCODORNÍU(lookoutforpromisingGRANRESlaunch).JaumeSerragd-valueCristalino.Topnamesincl:AgustíTorelló,CastellSantAntoni,CASTILLOPERELADA,CavadeNit,GRAMONA,PARXET,Raventós,RECAREDO(biodynamic),Sumarroca.CHARDandPINOTNwere

invadingblends,butnowmuchresearchintoimprovingqualityoftraditionalXAREL-LOgrape.SometopproducersleavingCavaDObecauseofhistoricpoorimage.

CérvolesCosdelSrwsw★★→★★★HighmountainousestatejustnorthofPRIORATmakingconcentratedredsfromCABSAUV/TEMPRANILLO/GARNACHAandpowerful,creamy,lemon-tinged,barrel-fermentedBlanc;alsosucculentsweetred.

Chacolí/TxakoliPVas(r)(p)w★→★★DYATheBasquewine.V’ydsfacethechillywindsoftheCantabriansea,justwestofSanSebastián,hencethearomatic,oftenthrillingcrunchinessofthepétillantwhites,locallypouredintotumblersfromaheight.Topnamesincl:Ameztoi,TxominEtxaniz,pluscelebrity-chef-ownedK5.

ChiviteNavrpwsw★★→★★★★HistoricNAVARRAbodegawithJuliánChivitenowbackincharge.PopularDYArangeGranFeudo,espRosadoandSobreLías(surlie).Excellent

Colección125range,incloutstandingCHARD08,oneofSpain’sbest,delicateVENDIMIATARDIAMOSCATEL(09).YoungPAGOwinesofbeautifulArínzanoestate,stillimproving.SecondwineCasonalaunched2012.Long-termconsultantwinemakerisDenisDubourdieu.InRIOJAownsViñaSalceda(v.gdCondedelaSalceda),inRUEDABaluarte(superbDYAVERDEJO).

CigalesCyLrp(w)★→★★★LyingbetweenRIBERADELDUEROandTORO,tinyCigalesfightstomakeitselfheard.YetthereisrealpotentialbeyondcommercialDYAredsforseriousold-vineTEMPRANILLO.VoluptuousCésarPríncipe;morerestrainedTraslanzasandValdelosfrailes.

Closd’AgonCatrw★★★Blue-chipproject.PeterSisseckofPINGUSmadefirstvintage,stillconsults.Fresh,spicy,herbalVIOGNIER/ROUSSANNE/MARSANNEwhiteanddelicious,modern,deeplyflavouredCABSAUV/SYRAH/MERLOT/CABFRClosd’AgónNegreaswellasless-seenClosValmañaduo.

ClosMogadorPrir★★★→★★★★030405060708Inaregionnowfilledwithbignames,RenéBarbierhasbeenaquietgodfathertoyoungerwinemakers.ClosMogadorstillcommandsrespect:the2005wasthefirsttoreceivethenew,highVideFincaQualificadaclassification.Exceptionallyinterestingishisspicy,fragrant,honeyedClosNelin(09)whiteblend.

CodorníuCosdelS,Pen,Pri,RibdelD,Riorpwsp★→★★★★OneofthetwolargestCAVAfirms,ownedbytheRaventósfamily,rivalstoFREIXENET.Best:gdvintage,ReinaMariaCristina,v.dryNonPlusUltraandPINOTN.LookoutfornewGranCrew:individual,experimental,topquality.Newwinemakingteamleadsresearchintolocalvarieties,plusrevivesothermembersofgroup.Extensivev’ydsofRaimatinCOSTERSDELSEGREyieldingquality,LegarisinRIBERADELDUEROimproving;thoughformerlyslumberingBilbainasin

RIOJAstillworkinprogress.SeealsoSCALADEI.ConcadeBarberàCatrpwAsmallCatalanDOoncepurelya

feederofqualityfruittolargeenterprises,nowhassomeexcellentwineries,incthebiodynamicEscoda-Sanahuja.TopTORRESwinesGransMurallesandMilmandaarebothproducedinthisDO.

CondadodeHazaRibdelDr★★★05060708PureTINTOFINOagedinAmericanoak.SecondwineofAlejandroFernández’sPESQUERAandunfairlyoverlooked.

ConsejoReguladorOrganizationthatcontrolsaDO–eachDOhasitsown.Qualityisasinconsistentasthewinestheyrepresent;somearebureaucratic,othersareenterprising.

ContinoRAlarpw★★★★010405’0607’08JesusMadrazofocusesonhissinglev’yd(RIOJA’sfirst)withconsistentsuccess.RES07;alsoGRANRES05inmagnum.GRACIANO07’08–thisisRioja’sfinestexpressionofthisdifficultvariety;topwineis

single-v’ydViñadelOlivo07’.Ripe,texturedGARNACHAblendwhite(11);aromaticrosado(09).

CostersdelSegreCatrpwsp★★→★★★★GeographicallydividedDOwithexcellentproducers,inclmountainousCastelld’Encus(runbyformerTORRESMDRaulBobet,experimentingwithmedievalfermenterscarvedoutofrock):EkamRIES,ThalarnSYRAH;alsoCASTELLDELREMEI,CÉRVOLES,Raimat.

CrianzaReferstotheageingofwine.Neworunagedwineissin(without),crianzaorJOVEN.Ingeneralcrianzasmustbeatleast2yrsold(with6mths–1yrinoak)andmustnotbereleasedbeforethe3rdyr.SeeRES.

CVNERAltrpw★→★★★★Pronounced“coo-nee”,theoncetraditionalCompañiaVinicoladelNortedeEspaña(1879),nowontheup.Reliable,fruityRES06;bramblyImperialRes(05);GRANRES(06);delicate,savouryViñaRealGranRes04.CONTINOisamemberofthegroupbutoperatesindependently.

Cusiné,TomásCosdelSrw★★→★★★OneofSpain’smostinnovativewinemakers,originallybehindCASTELLDELREMEIandCÉRVOLES.Individual,modernwines,inclTEMPRANILLOblendVilosell,andoriginalten-varietywhiteblendAuzells.

DenominacióndeOrigen(DO),DenominacióndeOrigenProtegida(DOP)ChangestoEuropeanlegislationareshowingonlyslowlyonbacklabels.InSpaintheformerDenominacióndeOrigen(DO)andDOCalificadaarenowgroupedasDOP,alongwiththesingle-estatePAGOdenomination.ThelessercategoryofVCPRDisbecomingVCIG,VinosdeCalidaddeIndicaciónGeográfica.Gotthat?

DínastíaVivancoRAltrw★★Majorfamily-runcommercialBODEGAinBRIONES,withsomeinterestingvarietalwines.Winemuseumisworththedetour.

DominiodeValdepusaC-LaMrw★★→★★★060708CarlosFalcó,MarquésdeGriñon,isadeterminedinnovator.Atfamily

estatenrToledohehasbeenaconfidentrule-breakersince1970s,pioneeringSYRAH,PETITVERDOT,dripirrigation,soilscience,workingwithtopconsultants.UltimatelyrecognizedasaPAGO.Winesaresavouryandconcentrated.Syrah(05),valueCaliza(07).AlsoinVINOSDEMADRIDDOatElRincón.

VaryingthedietTheubiquitousTEMPRANILLOsailsunderdifferentflagsofconvenienceaccordingtowhereyouareinSpain:TINTOFINO,TintadeToro,CENCIBEL…seeGrapevarieties.GARNACHAhasfewersynonymsbutisalsowidelyspread.ButSpainhasbeendiscoveringaraftofothergrapes.MENCÍA,Bobal,GRACIANO,Caino,Lado,JuanGarcía,MantoNegro,Maturana,DoñaBlanca,Albillo,Samsóandmore.Therearearound100differentgrapesbeinggrowninSpainnow,ifyouincludeforeigninvaders,addingnuanceandcomplexity.

DulceSweet.Empordà-AmpurdánCatrpw★→★★Small,fashionableDOnr

Frenchborder,acentreofcreativity.Bestwineries:CASTILLOPERELADA,CellerMartiFabra,PereGuardiola.Quirky,youngEspeltgrows17varieties;tryGARNACHA/CARIGNANSauló.

EnateSomrpw★★→★★★EstablishedSOMONTANOname,knownforartisticlabels,DYAGEWURZandbarrel-fermentedCHARD,gdmodernSYRAH,butalsoround,satisfyinglybalancedCAB/MERLOTEspecialRES010205.

EnriqueMendozaAlicrwsw★★PepeMendozaisakeyfigureinresurgenceofDOandofMONASTRELLgrape.Winesasexpressiveandindividualastheman.VibrantTremenda08,dense,rusticEstrecho06.Alsohoneyed,sweetMOSCATEL.

EspumosoSparklingwine,butnotmadeaccordingthetraditional

method,unlikeCAVA.Usuallycheaper.FincaFarmorestate(eg.FINCAALLENDE).FincaAllendeRAltrw★★★★04’05’06’07’Top(inall

senses)RiojabodegaatBRIONESwithtowerofancientmerchant’shouse:greatviewofMiguelÁngeldeGregorio’sv’yds.06’issuperblyelegant,lovelynowbutwillkeep;single-v’ydCalvario(06’)isfour-squareandv.youthful;Aurus(07’)issumptuouswithminerality.Twowhites:powerful09’,v.fine,oak-influencedMartires(11)partnertoCalvario.FincaNuevaisnewrangeofless-priceywines.AlsoFincaCoronado,LaMancha.

FincaSandovalC-LaMr★★→★★★Wine-writerVictordelaSernaisseriousaboutwinemaking,too;FINCASandoval(SYRAH/MONASTRELL/Bobal)championstwoindigenousvarietiesinanupcomingregion.Secondlabel,Salia(Syrah/GARNACHA/Bobal)simplerbuthalftheprice.

FondillónAlicsw★→★★★Once-fabledsweetredfromMONASTRELL,agedtosurviveseavoyages.Nowmaturedinoakformin10yrs;somesoleras(seeSherry)ofgreatage.Smallproductionbyeg.GUTIÉRREZDELAVEGA,PrimitivoQuiles.

FreixenetPenpwsp★→★★★HugeCAVAfirmownedbyFerrerfamily.RivalofsimilarlyenormousCODORNÍU.Best-knownforfrosted,black-bottledCordónNegroandstandardCartaNevada.NewtopCavaElyssiaisarealstepup;refreshedbyCHARDandPINOTN.AlsocontrolsCastellblanch,CondedeCaralt,SeguraViudasandBordeauxnégociantYvonMau.

Galicia(r)wRainynorthwesterncornerofSpainproducingsomeofSpain’sbestwhites(seeRÍASBAIXAS,MONTERREI,RIBEIRASACRA,RIBEIRO,VALDEORRAS).

GramonaPenrwswsp★★→★★★★StarCAVAcellar,oneofleadersindrivetoconvincesparklingwine-drinkersthatthereischaracterinCava;5thgenerationmakesimpressivelong-aged

Cavas,inclImperialGranRes,IIILustros04,Argent07.ExtensiveresearchandexperimentalplantingsalsogiverisetogdXAREL-LO-dominatedCellerBatle;sweetwines,inclIcewinesandimpressiveCHARD/SAUVBLGraaGraBlancoDulce.

TryGrapevarieties.

GranReservaSeeRES.GutiérrezdelaVegaAlicrwsw★→★★★Smallestateof

opera-lovingformergeneral.Producesredsbutthefocusisonfragrant,honeyedCastaDivarangeofsweetMOSCATELS.AlsokeepsupFONDILLÓNtradition.

HaciendaMonasterioRibdelDr★★→★★★0405060708CultwinemakerPETERSISSECK’sinvolvementensuresahighprofileforTINTOFINO/CAB/MERLOTblends.ReputationisdeservedwithapproachableCRIANZA(08)andelegantlyround,complexRES(06’).

HaroRAltThepicturesqueheartoftheRIOJAAlta,withthegreatnamesofRiojaclusteredinandaroundtheoldtransporthuboftherailwaystation.VisitLÓPEZDEHEREDIA,MUGA,LARIOJAALTA,aswellasmodernRODA.

HuertadeAlbaláCádr★★→★★★V.ambitiousyoung(2006)AndalusianestateinfoothillsofSierradeGrazalema,blendingSYRAH,MERLOT,CABSAUVandrarelocalTintilladeRota.Dark,figgy15%TintillablendDYABarbazul,gdseriousTaberner07.

JorgeOrdoñezUS-basedimporteroftopSpanishwines,influentialinbuildingreputationofNewSpainintheUSA.ExcellentcollectionofMÁLAGAMOSCATELS.

JoséParienteCyLw★★VictoriaParientemakescrispDYAVERDEJOofshiningclarityintinyRUEDAwinerynamedafterherfather.

JovenYoung,unoakedwine,becomingincreasinglypopularas

qualityimproves,espredsfromRIOJAAlavesawithBeaujolais-stylecarbonicmaceration.SeeCRIANZA.

JuanGilMurr★★→★★★Fourth-generationfamilybusinessrelaunchedin2002withmissiontomakethebestinJUMILLA.GdyoungMONASTRELLs,dense,powerfultopwinesClioandElNido.FamilygroupalsoincludesmodernwinesinrisingDOs,inclShaya(RUEDA),CanBlau(MONTSANT).

JumillaMurr(p)(w)★→★★★PartofthenewSpain.Aridv’ydsinmtnsnorthofMurcia;oldMONASTRELLvinesbeingrediscoveredbyambitiouswinemakers.TEMPRANILLO,MERLOT,CAB,SYRAH,PETITVERDOTalsofeature.Topproducer:JUANGILwithElNido.Alsofollow:AgapitoRico,CasaCastillo,CASTAÑOwithCasaCisca,Carchelo,Luzón,ValledelCarche.

JuvéyCampsPenwsp★★★Consistentlygdfamilyfirmfortop-qualityCAVAfromfree-runjuice.ResdelaFamiliaisthestalwart,withtop-endGRANRESandMilesiméGranResCHARD.

LaManchaC-LaMrpw★→★★Spain’slargest,leastimpressivewineregion,southofMadrid.Best:PESQUERA’sElVinculo,MARTINEZBUJANDA’sFincaAntigua,Volver.

León,JeanPenrw★★→★★★04050607PioneerofCABandCHARDinSpain;TORRES-ownedsince1995.Gd,oakyChards,expressive3055Merlotandhigh-pricedsuper-cuvéeZemis.

LópezdeHerediaRAltrpwsw★★→★★★★Remarkable“château”byHAROstation.Winesjustasremarkable.Vastold-oakvatsdominatewinery;styleallaboutlong-bottle-aged,unfilteredwine.CubilloisyoungerrangewithGARNACHA;darkerBosconia;delicate,ripeViñaTondonia64,68,70,81,94,95,96,01,04.Whiteshaveextensivebarrel-andbottle-age:fascinatingGravonia00,ViñaTondoniaGranRes879196.Parchment-likeGranResRosado00.

LuisCañasRAlarw★→★★★ThiswidelyawardedfamilybusinessgiveshonestqualityfromJOVENtogarage-stylewines.

GdSelecciondelaFamiliaRES04,ultra-concentratedHiru3Racimos0406.AlsoBodegasAmaren:richmodernandconcentrated.

Madrid,Vinosderpw★→★★HistoricallyMadrid’sGARNACHAvinesprovidedthecapital’sbarwines.Todayold,oftenabandonedvinesarepartofanewwaveofquality.Go-aheadnamesinclBernabeleva,makinginterestingburgundianwhiteandtopGarnachaViñaBonita.AlsoMarañones,Gosálbez-Ortí,runbyaformerIberiapilot,Jeromín,Divo,ViñedosdeSanMartín(partofENATEgroup)andElRegajal.

MálagaOnce-famousDO.TELMORODRIGUEZrevivedthemoribundMOSCATELindustrywithsubtle,sweetMolinoReal.ExceptionalNo3OldVinesMoscatel06fromJORGEORDOÑEZ.Bentomiz,withAriyanaswines,hasimpressiveportfolioofsweetanddrysweetMoscatel,alsoreds,incllocalRomévariety.

Mallorcarw★→★★★050607080910Formerlytourist

wines,nowmuch-improved;serious,fashionableinBarcelona.Familycellarsremainbutnewinvestmentbringsinnovation,witheg.4Kilos.PlentyofinterestinAnimaNegra,tinySaVinyadeCa’nServera,HereusdeRibas,SonBordils,C’anVidalet.AlsoBiniagual.Redsblendtraditionalvarieties(Mantonegro,Callet,Fogoneu)plusCAB,SYRAH,MERLOT.Whites(espCHARD)areimprovingfast.TwoDOs:BINISSALEM,PLÁILLEVANT.

ManchuelaTraditionalproducerofbulkwine,nowshowingpromise:eg.Bobal,MALBEC,PETITVERDOT.PioneerFINCASANDOVALfollowedbyAltoLandónandPonce.

MarquésdeCáceresRAltrpw★→★★PioneeredFrenchwinemakingtechniquesinRIOJA.Fadedgloryatpresent.Gaudiumismodernstyle;GRANREStheclassic.

MarquésdeGriñonRAltRIOJAbrandownedbyBerberana.NolongeranyconnectionwiththeMarqués–seeDOMINIODE

VALDEPUSA.MarquésdeMonistrol,BodegasPenrpswsp★→★★Old

BODEGAnowownedbyBODEGASUNIDAS.Gd,reliableCAVA;butonce-lively,modernPENEDÈSredsnolongersolively.

MarquésdeMurrietaRAltrpw★★★→★★★★OneofRIOJA’sgreatnames,mostfamousformagnificentCastillodeYgayGranRES.ResEspecialalsooutstanding.Best-valueisdense,flavoursomeRes.Surprisingly,alsoconvincinglymodernDalmau.Capellaniaiscomplex,texturedwhite,oneofRioja’sbest.

MarquésdeRiscalRAlar(p)w★★→★★★01040506070809FrankGehry’stitanium-roofedhotelsitsuneasilybythetraditionalBODEGA.Winesalsocontrastmodernandclassic.PowerfulBaróndeChirelRESimpressesmorethantraditionalwines.PioneerinRUEDA(since1972)makingvibrantDYASAUVBL,VERDEJO.

MartinezBujanda,FamiliaC-LaM,Riorpw★→★★Commerciallyastutebusinesswithanumberofwineries,alsomakesprivate-labelwines.MostattractiveareFincaValpiedra,charmingsingleestateinRIOJA;FINCAAntiguainLAMANCHA.

Masd’enGilPrirw★★→★★★ExcitinglymineralComaBlancaisoneofPRIORAT’stopwhites;v.gdComaVellared.

MasMartinetPrir★★★→★★★★04050607BoutiquePRIORATpioneer,producerofexcellentClosMartinet.Secondlabel:MartinetBru07.Nowrunby2ndgeneration,inclinfluentialwinemakerSaraPérez.

MauroCyLr★★★NoneedforDOinthisnew-waveBODEGAinTudeladelDuero.PedigreeofMarianoGarcíaofAALTOandformerlyVEGASICILIAsaysitall.AfavouritewithSpanishcollectors.Mauro(10)needstimetosoften.TopwineispowerfulTerreus(09’).Sisterwinery:MaurodosinTORO.

MéntridaC-LaMrp★→★★PartoftheNewSpain.Formerco-

opcountrysouthofMadrid,nowbeingputonthemapbyArrayan,Canopy,andtheinfluentialDanielJiménez-Landi(Piélago06,Sotorrondero06).

MiguelTorresCat,Pri,Riorpwsw★★→★★★★Spain’smostconsistentproducer.Consistentlyinnovative,too–from0.5%ABVNatureo(gdw,pandrlesssuccessful)–topioneeringenvironmentalmanagementandfromcommercialtosinglev’yd.Ever-reliableDYACATALUNYAViñaSol,grapeyViñaEsmeralda,silky-sweetMOSCATEL.Bestreds:finePenedèsCABERNETMaslaPlana(08);CONCADEBARBERÀduo(BurgundianMilmanda(09),oneofSpain’sfinestCHARDs,GransMuralles(06)blendoflocalvarieties)isstunning,andJEANLEÓNhasv.gdofferings,too.InRIBERADELDUEROCeleste(09)isimproving;gdRIOJAIbéricos,andPRIORATSalmos.Next-generationMigueltotakeoverfromhisfather;daughterMireiaistechnicaldirector.

MonterreiGalw★→★★★DYASmallbutgrowingDOinOurense,south-centralGALICIA,makingfull-flavouredaromaticwhitesfromTreixadura,GODELLOandDoñaBlanca.ShowsthereismoretoGaliciathanALBARIÑO.BestisGargalo.

MontsantCatr(p)w★→★★★04050607080910TuckedinaroundPRIORAT,MONTSANTechoesitsneighbour’swinesatlowerprices.FineGARNACHABLANCA,espfromAcústic.CARIÑENAandGARNACHAdeliverdense,balsamic,minerallyreds:Capçanes,gd-valueMasroig,CanBlau,Dosterras,Étim,Joand’Anguera,MasPerinetandPortaldelMontsant(partnertogdPortaldelPriorat)allofferimpressive,individualwines.

MugaRAltrpw(sp)★★★→★★★★ClassicnameinHARO,familyproducingRIOJA’smostaromaticandbalancedreds.Gdbarrel-fermentedDYAVIURAreminiscentofburgundy;gddryRosado;redsfinelycraftedanddelicate.BestarewonderfullyfragrantGRANRESPradoEnea(9801);warm,fullandlong-

lastingTorreMuga(010506);expressiveandcomplexAroanddense,rich,structured,full-flavouredSelecciónEspecial(05).

MustiguilloV’ciar★★★Thisdecade-oldBODEGApreferstositoutsidetheDOandmakeitsownrules,withscrupulousv’ydandcellarwork.ShowsthepotentialoflocalBobalgrape,blendinginCABSAUVandTEMPRANILLO.Winesincl:Junior,juicyMestizaje,CedarandcassisFincaTerrerazo.Top:QuinchaCorralmovingto100%Bobal.

Navarrarp(w)★★→★★★0104050607080910AlwaysinRIOJA’sshadow.Freedomtouseinternationalvarietiescanworkagainstit,confusingitsrealidentity.GdDYARosado.Up-and-comingnamesinclPagodeLarrainzarandconfident,youthfulTandem.Bestproducers:ARTADI’sArtazu,CHIVITE,INURRIETA,Nekeas,OCHOA,Otazu,PagodeCirsus,SeñoriodeSarríawithgdRosado.

Nido,Elr★★★GlamorousnewstarintheunpromisingregionofJUMILLA,withhithertounfavouredMONASTRELLgrapes.Fromserious,successfulJUANGILstable;resultsareimpressive.Secondlabel,Clio,is70%Monastrell,30%CABSAUV;dense,perfumedElNidoisthereverseproportions.

OchoaNavrpwswsp★→★★OchoafathermadesignificanttechnicalcontributiontogrowthofNAVARRA.OchoachildrennowworkingtoreturnthefamilyBODEGAtoformerglory.V.gdRosado;fine,sweetMOSCATEL;fun,sweet,Asti-likesparkling.

MugainRiojagetsthrough80,000eggwhitesayearfiningitswines–that’salotofspareyolks.

Pago,VinosdePagodenotesv’yd,roughlyequivalenttoFrenchgrandcru.Butcriticismspersistaboutlackofobjectivequalityanddifferingtraditionsofpagossofar.ObviousabsenteesinclALVAROPALACIOSL’Ermita,PINGUS,Calvario(FINCAALLENDE),

CONTINO’sViñadelOlivoandTORRESproperties.PagodeCarraovejasRibdelDr(RES)★★★04050607V.gd

TINTOCRIANZA;despitenamenomerecrianzainquality.Topwine:v.gdCuestadelasLiebres.

PalaciodeFefiñanesGalw★★★★ThemostetherealofALBARIÑOs.StandardDYAwineoneofthefinest.Twosuperiorstyles:creamybutlight-of-touchbarrel-fermented1583(yrwinerywasfounded)andasuper-fragrant,pricey,lees-aged,mandarin-orange-scentedIII.

Palacios,DescendientesdeJBierr★★★IfÁLVAROPALACIOSlaunchedmodernPriorat,thenhisnephewRicardoPérezisdoingmuchthesameforBIERZOandthedifficultMENCÍAgrape.Gd-value,floralPétalos09,plusseriousLaFaraona,VilladeCorullónandLasLamas,grownonschistsoils.

PalaciosRemondoRBrw★★→★★★FromhisfamilywineryÁLVAROPALACIOS,princeofPRIORAT,isworkingtorestore

GARNACHAtoitsrightfulplaceinRioja,aswellaspromotingtheconceptofvillagesorcrus,asinBurgundy.GdnewsforRIOJABaja.Complex,oakedwhitePlácet(09,10’)suggestslime,peachandfennel.Reds:organic,Garnacha-led,red-fruityLaMontesa(09);big,mulberry-flavoured,old-vine100%GarnachaPropiedad(10).

Parxetpwsp★★→★★★DYASmallCAVAproducervaliantlycompetingwithreal-estateagentsfromBarcelona.Best-knownforrefreshing,off-dryPANSÀBLANCA,stillwhiteMarquésdeAlella.ConcentratedTioniofromoutpostinRIBERADELDUERO.

PazodeSeñoransGalw★★★DYAExceptionallyfragrantALBARIÑOsfromabenchmarkBODEGAinRÍASBAIXAS.V.fineSeleccióndeAñada.

PenedèsCatrwsp★→★★★★DemarcatedregionwestofBarcelona,best-knownforCAVA.Identityratherconfused,espsincerecentarrivalofextensiveCATALUNYADO.Best:ALBETI

NOYA,CanRafolsdelsCausAlemanyiCorrio,GRAMONA,JanéVentura,JEANLEÓN,TORRES.

PesqueraRibdelDr★★★★VeteranAlejandroFernándezbuilttheglobalreputationofhiswinesandofRIBERADELDUERO,fromhisfamilyv’ydoppositeVEGASICILIA.Usinglessoak-ageingthanhisneighbourhemakessatisfyingCRIANZAandRESERVA,andexcellent,matureJanusforthosewhocanaffordthepricetag.AlsoatCONDADODEHAZA.DehesaLaGranja(Zamora),ElVinculo(LAMANCHA).

Pingus,DominiodeRibdelDr★★★★040506070809’Consistentexcellencefromdeluxebiodynamicproject.Pingus(DanePeterSisseck’schildhoodname)remainssmall.V.fineFlordePinguscomesfromrentedv’yds,whileAmeliaisasinglebarrelnamedafterhiswife.NowgrowingwithadditionofPSIproject.

PláiLlevantMallrw★→★★★Elevenwineriescomprisethis

tiny,lively,islandDO.Aromaticwhitesandintense,spicyreds.Best:ToniGelabert,JaimeMesquida,MiguelOliverandVinsCanMajoral.Exportsaresmall,sovisitandenjoyontheisland.

Priorat/PrioratoCatrw★★→★★★★01040506070809Isolatedenclave,namedafteroldmonastery,renownedforllicorella(slate)soils,terracedv’yds.RescuedbyRenéBarbierofCLOSMOGADOR,ÁLVAROPALACIOSandothers.Theirwinesremainconsistentlyv.gd,showingcharacteristicmineralpurity.Afteraneraofheavilyoaked,densewines,eleganceandmoreaccessiblepricingisappearing.Palacioshasdriventheintroductionof“village”DOswithinPriorat.Othertopnames:CimsdePorrera,ClosErasmus,Closdel’Obac,ClosNelin,ClosiTerrasses,MASMARTINET,SCALADEI,Val-Llach.Newerarrivals:Ferrer-Bobet,TORRES.

QuintaSardoniaCyL★★★Oneoftheglossynon-DOstars,basedinSardondeDuero,betweenABADÍARETUERTAand

MAURO,launchedbyformercolleagueofPeterSisseckatPINGUS.Dense,pepperyrichnessof09’.MemberofTerrasGaudagroup,alsoinclPittacuminBIERZO.

RafaelPalaciosGalw★★★Rafael,ÁLVAROPALACIOS’youngerbrother,runsthisestate.HavingcreatedthesmallestateproducingexceptionalwinefromoldGODELLOvinesintheBibeiValley.Rafael–asquietashissiblingisextrovert–isdevotedtowhitewines.Twodistinctstyles,bothDYA:AsSortesisintense,toasty,citrusandwhite-peachywithv.gdacidity,afineexpressionofGodello;oak-agedLourodoBolo.

RecaredoPen★★★→★★★★SuperbbiodynamicCAVAproducer;alsov.gdstill.Topsischaracterful,mineralTuród’enMota,fromvinesplanted1940,agesbrilliantly.

Remelluri,LaGranjaNuestraSeñoraRAlarw★★→★★★Gloriousmountainousestate.TELMORODRIGUEZhasreturnedtohisfamilypropertywherehecreatedtheintriguingDYAwhite

madefromsixdifferentvarieties.Comingbacktoform.Reserva(Res)Increasinglyproducersprefersimplytoignorethe

regulations.But–rareinthewineworld–ReshasactualmeaninginSpain.RedResmustspendatleast1yrincaskand2yrsinbottle;GRANRES,2yrsincaskand3yrsinbottle.WiththecrisisinSpaintherearegdpricestobefoundforunsoldGranRes.

RíasBaixasGal(r)w★★→★★★★AtlanticDOproducingDYAwhites,thedarlingofMadrid’sdiners,withpricestomatch.Withcrisis,pricesarecoolingandexportsincreasing.FoundedonALBARIÑOgrowninfivesubzones:ValdoSalnés,ORosal,CondadodoTea,Soutomaior,RiberadoUlla.Thebestareoutstanding:AdegasGalegas,AsLaxas,CastroBaroña,CastroCelta,Fillaboa,CotodeXiabre,GerardoMéndez,ViñaNora,MartínCódax,PALACIODEFEFIÑANES,PazodeBarrantes,PAZODESEÑORANS,QuintadoLobelle,SantiagoRuíz,Terras

Gauda,LaVal,Valdamor,Zarate.Growinginterestinlongerlees-ageingandbarrel-ageing.

RibeiraSacraGalSourceofexcellentGalicianwhitesandcrunchyMENCÍA,fromterracesrunningdizzyinglydowntoriverSil.Topproducersincl:DominiodoBibeiandGuimaro.

RibeiroGal(r)w★→★★★DYAAGalicianDOinwesternOurense.Whitesarerelativelylowinalcoholandacidity,madefromTreixadura,TORRONTÉS,GODELLO,LOUREIRO,Lado.Topproducers:CotodeGomariz,VIÑAMEÍN,LagardoMerens.AlsospecialitysweetwinestyleTostado.

RiberadelDuerorp★→★★★★04’05’0607080910Glamorousandpricey,butstilluneven.TheDOthatincludesVEGASICILIA,HACIENDAMONASTERIO,PESQUERAandPINGUShastobeserious,butwith250BODEGASconsistencyishardtofind.Othertopnames:AALTO,ALIÓN,Astrales,CillardeSilos,CONDADODEHAZA,PagodelosCapellanes,PérezPascuas.See

alsoneighboursABADÍARETUERTAandMAURO.Otherstolookfor:Bohórquez,DehesadelosCanónigos,Matarromera,OFournier,Protos,Sastre,TomásPostigoandVallebueno.

RiojahasitallAndRIOJAdoeshaveitall.Internationalfame(supportedbystrongmarketing),beautifulcountryside,winesthatarecharmingyoungandat40yrs.Theregioniscutthreeways,andafteracenturyormoreofblending,regionalityandsingle-v’ydsareanincreasinglyimportanttheme.Alavesa(partoftheBasquecountry)offersfruityBeaujolais-stylewinemakingforjuicyJOVENS.AltaisthetraditionalhomeofRiojaanditsgreatnames.Warmer,lower,Bajaisgainingrecognitionbytheeffortsofeg.ALVAROPALACIOS.Stylescomeinthreealso:arevivalinqualityinthejovens,anemphasisonseriousRESwithgdcleanoak,andultra-modern“high-expression”producers,

withshinywineriestomatch,whofollowtheirownrules.JustafewBODEGAS,notablyLARIOJAALTA,MUGAandLÓPEZDEHEREDIA,continuetomakedelicate,aromatic,old-fashionedwines.SignificantnewarrivalsinclRothschildandVEGASICILIA,launchingin2013;Loa,fromtheDOMECQfamily(seeSherrychapter);garagisteDavidSampedro’sPhincas.WhitesarelookingupwithseriousBurgundy-styleoaktreatmentandmuch-improvedv’ydwork.

Riojarpwsp★→★★★★Seeboxabove.RiojaAlta,Lar★★→★★★★Oneofthegreattraditional

RIOJAswithlovelyRESandtwooutstandingGRANRES.Alberdiislight,prettyandcedary;Ardanzaisriper,atouchspicierbutstillelegant,boostedbyGARNACHA;excellent,tangy,vanilla-edgedGranRes904(9597)andfine,multilayeredGranRes890(9597),aged6yrsinoak.AlsoownsRÍASBAIXASLagardeCervera.

RodaRAltr★★★★04’05’060708ModernBODEGAnrthestationinHARO.SeriousRESredsfromlow-yieldTEMPRANILLO,backedbystudyonclones.Justthreewines:Roda,RodaIandCirsión.AlsooutstandingDaurooliveoils.

RuedaCyLw★★→★★★DOofValladolidwithSpain’sresponsetoSAUVBL:zestyVERDEJO.MostlyDYAwhites.“RuedaVerdejo”is100%indigenousVerdejo.“Rueda”isblendedwitheg.SauvBl,VIURA.Barrel-fermentedversionsremainfashionablethoughlessappealing.Best:AlvarezyDiez,Baluarte(seeCHIVITE),Belondrade,FrançoisLurton,MARQUÉSDERISCAL,Naia,Ossian,JOSÉPARIENTE,PalaciodeBornos,JavierSanz,SITIOSDEBODEGA,Unzu,Veracruz,VinosdeNieva,VinosSanz.

ScalaDeiPrir★★★★V’ydsofthe“stairwaytoheaven”clingtoslopesthattowerovertheoldmonastery.OneofPRIORAT’sclassics,nowcarefullytendedbypart-ownerCODORNÍU.Juicy

youngNegre(11);fine,refreshingPrior(08).Cartoixa(05,06,07’)ispowerfulCABSAUV/GARNACHAmadetobemoresuppleandscentedsince2007.

SierraCantabriaRior★★→★★★★Under4th-generationMarcusEguren,thefamilyspecializesinsingle-v’yd,minimal-interventionwines,arelativelynewconceptinRIOJA.Burgundianapproachtowinemakingshowingintensityandelegance:Organzawhiteblend(09’),RESUnico(08),ColecciónPrivada(09’),Amancio(05’,08’).AtViñedosdePáganosestate,equallyoustanding:LaNieta(09),superbElPuntido(08’).OtherpropertiesinclTesolaMonjainTORO.

SitiosdeBodegaCyLw★★Fifth-generationwinemakerRicardoSanzandsiblingsleftfatherAntonioSanz’sPalaciodeBornostosetuptheirownwineryin2005.ExcellentDYARUEDAwhites(ConClass,PalaciodeMénade).AlsohasotherprojectstoworkwithMENCÍAandTEMPRANILLO.

Somontanorpw★→★★★Cool-climateDOinPyreneanfoothillsbeginningtodefineitself–slowly,givensomanyinternationalvarietiesinv’yd.OptforMERLOT,GARNACHA,GEWURZandCHARD.Bestproducersincl:ENATE,andVIÑASDELVERO–ownedbyGONZÁLEZBYASS(seeSherry).FromitspropertySecastillacomeOld-VineGarnacha(07),GarnachaBlanca(11),glossyClarion(10)andGranVos(05),plustopblendBlecua(05).

Tares,DominiodeBierrw★★★MENCÍAisatoughgrape,butdark,spicyBembibreandCepasViejasprovewhatcanbeachieved.SisterwineryVDTDominiodosTaresmakesarangeofwinesfromtheinterestingblackPrietoPicudovariety:simpleEstay,moremuscularLeioneandbig,spicyCumal.

TryGrapevarieties.

TelmoRodríguez,CompañíadeVinosrwsw★★→★★★

TelmoRodríguezmadehisname,andmanyfinewines,byfindingancientv’yds.NowsourcesandmakesawiderangeofexcellentDOwinesfromallover,inclMÁLAGA(MolinaRealMOSCATELS),RIOJA(LanzagaandMatallana),RUEDA(Basa),TORO(DehesaGago,GagoandPagolaJara)andValdeorras(DYAGabadoXilGODELLO).NowreturningtoREMELLURIinRioja–lookforriseinquality.

ToroCyLr★→★★★★Small,fashionableDOwestofValladolidatlaststartingtomakewinesthatliveuptoitshighprofile.ThelocalTintadeToro(TEMPRANILLO)isstilloftenrusticandoveralcoholicbutsomenowboldlyexpressive.TryMaurodos(seeAALTOandMAURO),withfresh,black-fruit-scentedPrima(10)anddense,old-vineSanRomán(08’),aswellasVEGASICILIA-ownedPintia.GlamourcomeswithNumanthia(08’),TesolaMonja.Alsorecommended:DomaineMagrezEspagne,EliasMora,EstanciaPiedra,PagolaJarafrom

TELMORODRÍGUEZ,QuintadelaQuietud,Sobreño.Unidas,BodegasUmbrellaorganizationcontrollingMarquésde

Monistrol(inclpopularCAVAbrand)andworkmanlikeRIOJASBerberana,MarquésdelaConcordia,MARQUÉSDEGRIÑÓN,andDuriusRIBERADELDUERO.

Utiel-Requenarp(w)★→★★SatelliteregionofVALENCIAforgingitsownidentitywithexcellentBobalgrape,buthamperedbyitssize(morethan40,000ha),whichmakesitprimarilyafeederfortheindustrialrequirementsofnearbyValencia.Newprojectsappearing,eg.AlvaresNölting.PabloOssorioofMurviedro(seeValencia)isbehindambitiousHispano-Suizasproject.MakesBassusPINOTN;TantumErgoCAVA,thoughanaward-winnerinSpain,islessimpressive.VisitVicenteGandíaforlivelywinemuseumofdecoratedbarrels.

ValbuenaRibdelDr★★★99000102030405VEGASICILIAjuniorsoldwhenjust5yrsold.Bestatabout10yrs;someprefer

ittoitselderbrother.ValdeorrasGalrw★→★★★AGALICIAnDOinnorthwest

Ourensefightingoffitsco-op-inspiredimagebyvirtueofitsDYAGODELLO.Best:Godeval,RAFAELPALACIOS,ATapadaandTELMORODRÍGUEZ.

ValdepeñasC-LaMr(w)★→★★LargeDOnrAndalucíanborder.Gd-valuelookalikeRIOJAreds,madeprimarilyfromCENCIBEL(TEMPRANILLO)grape.Oneproducershines:FélixSolís;ViñaAlbalibrandoffersrealvalue.

Valenciarpwsw★→★★Bigexporteroftablewine.Primarysourceofbudget,fortified,sweetMOSCATEL.Mostreliableproducer:Murviedro.Growinginterestininland,higher-altitudeold-vinesandminimalinterventioninwinemaking–eg.garagisteRafaelCambra.

VegaSiciliaRibdelDr★★★★ThisisSpain’s“firstgrowth”,thoughsurprisinglynotfromtheprestigezoneofRIOJA.It’sthe

onlySpanishwinetohaverealvalueinthesecondaryauctionmarket.Thewinemakingisdistinguishedbymeticulouscareandlongmaturation.Thewinesaredeepincolour,withacedarwoodnose,intenseandcomplex,finishinglong;andlong-lived.YouthfulVALBUENA(0506)–TINTOFINOwithalittleMALBEC,MERLOT–releasedwithmin5yrsinoak.Controlled,elegantflagshipÚnico(980002)isagedfor6yrsinoakbeforebottling;RESEspecialspendsupto10yrsinbarrel,thendeclaredasNV.BothwineshavesomeCABSAUVandMerlot.SeealsoALIÓN.OwnsPintia(TORO)andOremusTOKAJI(Hungary).Newestproject,RIOJAwithRothschildfamily

VendimiaVintage.ViñaLiterally,av’yd.ViñaMeínw★★SmallestateinagraduallyemergingGALICIAn

DO,makingtwoDYAexceptionalwhitesofsamename:onesteel-andonebarrel-fermented;bothfromsomesevenlocal

varieties.ViñasdelVeroSomrpw★★→★★★Amidthemixedbagof

varietiesandwinesinSOMONTANO,ViñasdelVeroofferspromiseafteritspurchasebyGONZÁLEZBYASS(seeSherry).Itstopwinesaredense,moderncheerleadersforGARNACHA,withothervarietiesblendedin.Secondlabels:LaMirandadeSecastillaandv.gdSecastilla.Blecuaishighlyconcentrated,madeinbestyrs.

VinodelaTierra(VDT)TablewineusuallyofsuperiorqualitymadeindemarcatedregionwithoutDO.Coversimmensegeographicalpossibilities;categoryincludesmanyprestigiousproducers,non-DObychoicetobefreerofinflexibleregulationandusethevarietiestheywant.

YeclaMurr(p)w★→★★SomethingstirsinYecla.Only11producers,butarealfocusonrevivingMONASTRELL,espCASTAÑO.

PORTUGAL

Recentvintages2012 Lowyields;droughtyear.Concentratedwines,thoughmild

summerdelayedvintage,contributingtobalance,especiallyforwhites.

2011Goodbalance,especiallyinVinhoVerdeandLisboa.2010Goodqualityandquantityallround.Bairradahadanother

excellentyear.InAlentejo,mayhavebeentoohot.2009Agoodyearoverall.BairradaandLisboaexcellent.Heat

spikesintheDouro,TejoandAlentejoresultedinsomebigwineswithhighalcohol.

2008Almostuniformlyexcellent;BairradaandAlentejoparticularly.Goodfruitintensity,balanceandaroma.

2007Aromaticwhitesandwell-balancedredswithroundtannins.2006 Forwardredswithsoft,ripefruitandwhiteswithlessacidity

thanusual.2005 Powerfulreds;theDouro’sfinelybalancedredsshine.AdegaAcellarorwinery.AlenquerLisrw★★→★★★0809’101112ShelteredDOC

justnorthofLisbon.SYRAHpioneerMONTED’OIROleadsthefieldwithCHOCAPALHA.

Alentejor(w)★→★★★04’050607’08’09101112Huge,warm,southerlyDOCdividedintosub-regionalDOCsBorba,Redondo,Reguengos,PORTALEGRE,Evora,Granja-Amareleja,VidigueiraandMoura.VRnameAlentejanopreferredbymanytopestates.Rich,ripereds,espfromAlicanteBouschet,SYRAH,TRINCADEIRAandTOURIGANACIONAL.WhitesfastimprovingnowAntâoVazandRoupeiroblendedwithARINTO,VERDELHO,

ALVARINHOANDVIOGNIER.CARTUXA,ESPORÃO,MALHADINHANOVA,MOUCHÃO,MOURO,PESO,JOÃOPORTUGALRAMOSanddosCoelheiroshavepotencyandstyle.Namestowatch:AntónioSaramago,DonaMaria,SÃOMIGUEL,doRocim,MontedaRavasqueira,PauloLaureano,Terrenus,TIAGOCABAÇO,QUINTAdoCentro.

Algarverpwsp★→★★SoutherncoastVINHOREGIONAL.CroonerCliffRichard’sADEGAdoCantorleadsshiftfromquafferstoquality;JOÃOPORTUGALRAMOS’planstobuyav’ydsuggestyethigherpotential.Watch:MontedaCasteleja,QUINTAdoFrancesandQuintadosVales.

Aliança,CavesBairrpwsp★★→★★★LargefirmwithfourestatesinBAIRRADA,inclQUINTAdasBaceladas;gdredsandclassic-methodsparkling.AlsointerestsinBeiras(Casad’Aguiar),ALENTEJO(QuintadaTerrugem),DÃO(QuintadaGarrida)andtheDOURO(QuatroVentos).

Ameal,QuintadoVinwspsw★★★V.gdLOUREIROmadebyANSELMOMENDES,inclage-worthy,oakedEscolha,SpecialLate-HarvestandARINTOESPUMANTE.

AphrosVinrpwsp★★★Permaculturebiodynamicestatewithfoodforest.NewtopLOUREIRO(Daphne;skincontact)andVinhão(oakedSilenus)espfood-friendly.

Aveleda,QuintadaVinrpw★→★★DYAHomeofeponymousestate-grownwinesaswellasCasalGarcía,whichwasbornin1939andcontinuestobeVINHOVERDE’sbiggest-sellingbrand.

Azevedo,QuintadoVinw★★DYASOGRAPE’sthroughlymodernestate-grownLOUREIRO-ledblend.Nowavailableunderscrewcap.

Swapconsonants,notcontinents–drinkAlvarinhofromPortugalandAlbariñofromSpain.

Bacalhoa,QuintadaSetrw★★★★030405060708’0910Onceownedbytheroyalfamily,nowbyBACALHOAVINHOS,thisNationalMonumentestatenrSETÚBALgivesitsnametoPortugal’sbestCABSAUV,plantedin1979.FleshierPalaçiodeBacalhoahasmoreMERLOT.GdwhiteBordeauxblendwithALVARINHO.

BacalhoaVinhosAlen,Lis,Setrpwspsw★★→★★★PrincipalbrandandHQofMadeiranbillionaireJoséBerardo’sGroup(whichinclBACALHOAandholdingsinCAVESALIANÇAandHENRIQUES&HENRIQUES).BarrelsofdelectableSETÚBALMOSCATEL,inclrareRoxodisplayedalongsidefine-artcollection.Modern,well-madetablewines,espgd-valueSerrasdeAzeitão,Catarina,CovadaUrsa(PENÍNSULADESETÚBAL)andTintodaAnfora(ALENTEJO).

Bágeiras,QuintadasBairrwsp★★★→★★★★(GARRAFEIRAr)01’0304’05’08’Stunning,traditionallycraftedgarrafeira

BAGA(r)andwhitebuilttoage.Res(BagawithTOURIGANACIONAL)andPaiAbel(youngv’yd)moreforward.Finezerodosagesparkling.

Bairradarpwsp★→★★★★01’03’0405’060708’09’10’1112Atlantic-influencedDOC.Traditionalstrengths:age-worthysparklingandBAGAreds.Permittingothergrapeshasimprovedapproachability,butendangeredBaga.TopBagaspecialists:CAVESSÃOJOÃO,LUÍSPATO,SidóniadeSousa,QUINTADASBÁGEIRAS.Leadingmodernists:CAMPOLARGO,QuintadoEncontro.Watch:FILIPAPATO,QuintadaVacariça,QuintadeBaixo(nowNIEPOORTincharge).NewVINHOREGIONALisBeiraAtlântico,whosestarplayerisQUINTADEFOZDEAROUCE.

BarcaVelhaDour★★★★82’838591’95’990004Portugal’siconicred,createdin1952byFERREIRA.Madeinexceptionalyrsinv.limitedquantities.Intense,complex,withadeepbouquet,itforgedtheDOURO’sreputationforstellarwines.

Distinguished,traditionalstyle(agedseveralyrsbeforerelease).Secondlabel,ResFerreirinha,isav.gdbuy.

BeiraInterior★LargeDOCbetweenDÃOandSpanishborder.Hugepotentialfromold,highv’ydsofmostlyDãoredvarietiesorSiriaforwhites.QUINTASDOCARDOanddosCurraisimpress.

BrancoWhite.BritoeCunha,JoãoDourw★★→★★★050708’0910

YounggunBritoeCunhaplayshostathisriversideQUINTAandguesthouses.Intenseandelegantreds(andnowVintagePort)fromQuintadeSanJosé,espRes.MorewidelysourcedAzéoisalsogd.

Buçacorw★★★(r)00’010405’06’07Throwback-in-timeManuelineGothicBussacoPalaceHotelisworthseekingoutforitsuniquetraditionalwines.Exclusivelistinclvintagesbacktothe1940s.RedsblendBAIRRADABAGAandDÃOTOURIGANACIONAL(r),whitesDãoEncruzadowithBairradaMARIA

GOMESandBical.BucelasLisw★★DYA(unlessoaked).TinyDOCmakingtangy,

racyARINTO(knownas“LisbonHock”in19th-centuryEngland).QUINTASDAROMEIRAanddaMurtaleadthefield.

Cabaço,TiagoAlenExcitingnew-waveproducer.TalentedSusanaEsteban(ex-QUINTADOCRASTO)makesv.elegantwinesblendingnativeandinternationalvarieties,inclfruity“.beb”(frombeber–todrink),tomorefood-friendly“.com”(comer–toeat)andpun-fulflagship“.blog”.

Cabriz,QuintadeDãorpw★★→★★★OwnedbyDÃOSUL,winesareafruitybutfreshmodernfoilformoretraditionalCASADESANTARwines.FlagshipFourC(rw)isv.gd.

CampolargoBairrwsp★→★★★AlargeestatemakinginnovativeredsfromnativeandBordeauxvarieties,plusPINOTN.GdDÃO(r).Newsingle-parcel100%CERCEAL(w)isv.gd.

CarcavelosLisbrsw★★★Minute,practicallydefunctDOCwest

ofLisbon,nowbetterknownforsurfing.Hen’s-teethsweetapéritifordessertwinesresemblehoneyedMADEIRA.

Cardo,QuintadoBeiIn★★★Coolsite;oneofPortugal’smostelegantTOURIGANACIONALs,alsoperfumedredblendsandaracywhitefromtheSíriagrape.

Cartuxa,AdegadaAlenrwsp★★→★★★★Eighteenth-centurycellarsremainatouristmagnetbutamodernwinery(2007)hasstepped-upqualityyethigher,espfortradionalflagshipPêraManca(rw)(959798010305’0708’);CartuxaResalsov.gd.FlashierScalaCoeliisfromnon-localgrapes.EAredsgd-value.

Carvalhais,QuintadosDãorpwsp★★→★★★(r)SOGRAPE’sprincipalDÃObrand:single-estatewines,inclflagshipUnicoandv.gdEncruzado(w).VolumeDuquedeViseuisfromestateandbought-ingrapes.

CasalBranco,QuintadeTejrw★★→★★★Largefamily

estate.Solidentry-levelwinesblendlocalandinternationalgrapes.BestisFalcoariarangefromold-vineCASTELÃO(r)andFERNÃOPIRES(w).

Castro,AlvaroDão★★★→★★★★Tounot,hisplayfulblendofTOURIGANACIONALandPINOTN,sumsuptheman.WinesofuncommoncharacterandfinessemostlyunderfamilyQUINTAnames,deSaesanddePellada.Res’s,Primus(w)andPape(r)excellent.DenserCarrocel(“200%oaked”TOURIGANACIONAL)needstime.Dado/DodaisDÃO/DOUROblendmadewithNIEPOORT.

Chocapalha,QuintadeLisrpw★★→★★★(r)ModernistusingtopPortugueseandinternationalgrapes.Integratingseamlesslyintohillsidewithnew€1.5mgravity-fedwinery.New:100%TOURIGANACIONALflagship“CH”byChocapalhaandMardaPalhaSYRAHTourigaNacionalblend.

ChryseiaDour★★★0405’060708’09MovingBordeaux’s

BrunoPratsandSYMINGTONFAMILYESTATESpartnershiptoQUINTAdeRorizhasincreasedthedensityandmineralityofthispolishedTOURIGANACIONALandTourigaFranca-focusedred.Secondwine:PostScriptum(07080910).

ChurchillEstatesDourpw★★→★★★040506070809’10Modernwhite,ROSADOandTOURIGANACIONAL.Bestareold-vine,mineral,grippyredsfromnorth-facingQUINTAdaGricha,espsingle-estateQuintadaGrichaandGrandeRes.

ColaresLisrw★★TinyDOCwestofLisbon.UngraftedRamiscovinesonsandysoilsproducetannicredsandold-schoolMALVASIAwhites.Biggestproducer:ADEGARegionaldeColares(co-op).NewcomersFundaçãoOriente,StanleyHoandMonteCascasmakecontemporarystyles.

ConceitoDou★★★PrecocioustalentRitaFerreiraMarquesisthefirstinherfamilytomakewine(asopposedtosellinggrapes)fromtheirthreeQUINTAs.Moderninclarityandfinesse,

traditionalinusinglocalvarieties,inclanunusualPINOTNOIR-likeBastardo.AlsoALVARINHOVINHOVERDE,NewZealandSAUVBLandaSouthAfricanred.

Crasto,QuintadoDourw★★→★★★★(r)0405’0607’0809’10Exceptionallyconcentrated,old-vine,single-v’ydblendsVinhadaPonte(00’01030407’10’)andMaríaTheresa(00’03’05’060709’),also(great-value)Res.CrastoSuperiorandFlordeCrastoarefromyoungDOUROSuperiorv’yd,QUINTAdaCabreira.Occasionalvarietals(TOURIGANACIONAL,TINTARORIZ).GdPort,too.

Dãorpwsp★★→★★★0103’04050607’08’0910HistoricDOCreviving.ModernpioneersCARVALHAIS,ALVAROCASTRO,DÃOSUL,andQUINTAsMAIASandROQUESmadestructured,elegant,perfumedreds,texturedwhites.Secondwaveincludes:VinhaPaz,daFalorca,daVegia,doMondego,JuliaKemper,CasadaPassarella,CASADEMOURAZandMOB(collaboration

betweenwinemakersfromPOEIRA,WINE&SOUL,VALEMEÃO).NewVINHOREGIONAL:TerrasdoDão.

DãoSulDãorwsp★★→★★★Broadrangewithinternationalappeal,inclQUINTAdosGrilos,QUINTACABRIZ,organicPacodosCunhasdeSantarandCASADESANTAR(DÃO),SádeBaixoanddasTecedeiras(DOURO),doEncontro(BAIRRADA),doGradil(LISBOA)andHerdadeMontedaCal(ALENTEJO).Impactofamajorchangeofteamyettobeseen.

DenominacãodeOrigemControlada(DOC)Demarcatedwineregioncontrolledbyaregionalcommission.SeealsoVR.

Doce(vinho)Sweet(wine).Dourorpwsw★★→★★★★01’03’04’05’0607’08’09’10

ThehomeofPort,buttablewine,redandnowwhite,hasafirmgrip.Perfume,fruitandmineralstypifyitsbestreds.Topwhitesaretexturedandcomplex.Bothcanhavefreshnessandbalance.LookforBARCAVELHA,CRASTO,DUASQUINTAS,NIEPOORT,

PASSADOURO,POEIRA,VALEDONAMARIA,VALEMEÃO,VALLADO,WINE&SOUL.Watch:JOÃOBRITOECUNHA,CONCEITO,Maritávora,MuxagatandQUINTAsDONOVALanddaTouriga.VRisDuriense.

DuasQuintasDourw★★★(r)03’04050607’0809’10PortshipperRamosPintousesfruitfromtwoQUINTAsforbalanceinthewarmerDouroSuperior:dosBonsAres(600metres)andErvamoira(110–340metres).Superbrangefeaturescutting-edge(egg-shapedfermenters)andtraditionaltechniques(Especialis100%foot-troddeninlagares).

DuorumDourw★★→★★★JointprojectofJOÃOPORTUGALRAMOSandJoseMariaSoaresFranco,whooversawBARCAVELHAfor27yrs.Gd-value,fruit-ledtablewines(espTonsentrylevel)sourcedfromnew250haCasteloMelhorv’ydinDOUROSuperiorandolder,elevatedv’yds.V.gdVintagePort,too.

Esporão,HerdadedoAlenrwsw★★→★★★050607’08’0910Bigestatemakinghigh-qualitymodernwines.Gd-value

fruity,entry-levelbrands,espMonteVelho.Varietalrange,EsporãoRes,PrivateSelection,GARRAFEIRAandv.limitededitionTorre(04’,07’)offerincreasingcomplexity.NewPORTALEGREv’ydat500metreswillaugmentfreshness.PromisingDOUROestate,too(QUINTAdasMurças).

EspumanteSparkling.BestwinesfromBAIRRADA(espBÁGEIRAS),DOURO,Távora–VarosaandVINHOVERDE.

FaluaTejrpwJOÃOPORTUGALRAMOS’TEJOoutpost.Well-madeexport-focusedbrands(eg.TagusCreek,TagusRidge)blendnationalandinternationalgrapes.CondedeVimiosomoretraditional:gdRes.

Feital,doQuintaVinw★★★08’0910YoungGalicianwinemakerMarcialDoradomakescharacterfulVINHOVERDE:powerfulandtextured.Auratus,ablendofALVARINHOandTrajadura,isalsov.gd.

FerreiraDourw★→★★★★SOGRAPE-ownedPortshipperwith

dizzyingarrayofDOUROwinesunderCasaFerreirinhalabels,fromentry-levelEstevatoBARCAVELHA.New:PapaFigosandv.polishedAAFAntoniaAdelaideFerreira.TopwinessourcedmostlyfromQUINTAdeLeda.

Fonseca,JoséMaríadaLisrpwdrswsp★★→★★★Historicfamily-ownedestate,pioneerofSETÚBALfortifiedMOSCATEL:excitingbackcatalogueusedtogreateffectinApoteca,20-yr-oldAlambreand20-yr-oldRoxo.VolumebrandedwinesLANCERSandPERIQUITAremainpopular.Oncecutting-edgebrands,eg.Vinya,Domini/DominiPlus(DOURO)andHexagon,lookataddated.

FozdeAroucePerhapsbecauseJOÃOPORTUGALRAMOSmakeshisparents-in-law’swineandundoubtedlybecauseit’slocatedsouthofBAIRRADAinashelteredspot,BAGAreds(espold-vineVinhasVelhasResdeSantaMaria)areage-worthy,butalsorelativelyapproachable.CharacterfulCercealwhiteisv.gd,too.

Gaivosa,QuintadeDourw★★★0405’060708’0910Characterfulterroir-focusedrangeinclruggedAbandonadoandmorepolishedVinhadeLordeloreds.Old-school(skincontact)BrancodaGaivosacontrastswithracynewwhiteVinhasAltasfromupthehillat600metres.Novel20th-annivesaryredblendsbestv’ydsandvintages.ExpandingPortrange.

GarrafeiraLabelterm:merchant’s“privateres”,agedformin2yrsincaskandoneinbottle,oftenmuchlonger.AtonetimemostPortuguesemerchants’redswerecalledthis.

Lagoalva,QuintadaTejrpw★★Easy,freshwinesfromnativesandinternationals(espCHARD,SAUVBL,SYRAH)brimwithfruit,thoughoakcanbeoverdone.GdvarietalAlfrocheiro.

GuitaristJimiHendrixdrankitandwasborninthesameyearasMateusRosé:1942.

Lancerspwsp★Semi-sweet(semi-sparkling)ROSADO,widely

shippedtotheUSAbyJOSÉMARÍADAFONSECA.RoséFreeisalcohol-free.

LavradoresdeFeitoriaDourw★★→★★★Collaborationof18producerswithunusualstrengthinwhites,espSAUVBLandMeruge(100%Viosinho).Gd-valuereds,inclsingle-v’ydQUINTAdaCostadasAguaneiras,MerugeandTrêsBagos.

LisboaVRonwestcoast;best-knownDOCs:ALENQUER,BUCELAS,CARCAVELOSandCOLARES.WinescanbepedestrianbutCHOCAPALHAandespMONTED’OIROrevealpotentialforinternationalandtopPortuguesegrapes,whileBiomanz(Jampalwhite)andCasalFigueira(Vitalwhite)showitsquirkierside.Watch:doConvento,doGradiland,forPINOTN,CasalStaMariaandQUINTADESANT’ANA.

MadeiraMadrw★→★★★★Islandworld-famousforfortifieds.Modesttablewines(TerrasMadeirensesVRandMadeirenseDOC)butPrimeiraPaixãoVERDELHOandSeiçal’s

BRANCOandRoséareacutabove.Maias,QuintadasDão★★→★★★SisterofQUINTADOS

ROQUES;v’ydnowcertifiedorganic.FlordasMaias(05,07)isshowyTOURIGANACIONAL-dominatedblend.V.gdvarietalwines,espJaen,MALVASIAFinaandDÃO’sonlyVERDELHO.

MalhadinhaNova,HerdadedaAlenrpwsw★★★05060708’0910’TheSoaresfamily’sMidastouchappliestobothwinesandcountryhousehotel.V.gdentry-leveldaPeceguina(blendsandvarietal),inclnewVIOGNIER.Modernwithaclassictwist,flagshipTINTOandMariasdaMalhadinhaarerich,spicyandmuscular.

MateusRosérp(w)sp★Theworld’sbestselling,medium-dry,lightlycarbonatedroséandPortugal’sbiggestexportbrand.New(r):FabulouslyFruityARAGONEZandDelightfullyDryBAGA/SHIRAZ.

Mendes,AnselmoVinwswsp★★→★★★★ALVARINHO-

focusedrange,inclContacto,MurosAntigos,MurosdeMelgaçoandtop-notch,oak-agedCurtimentaandsingle-v’ydParcelaÚnica.GdLOUREIRO,too,withmoretocomefromrenovatedoldv’yd.

MessiasBairrw★→★★★LargeBAIRRADA-basedfirm;interestsinDOURO(inclPort).Old-schoolredsbest.

MinhoVinRiverbetweennorthPortugalandSpain,alsoVR.SomeleadingVINHOVERDEproducerspreferVRMinholabel.Grapetowatch:Avesso.

Monted’Oiro,QuintadoLisrw★★→★★★(Res)0304’0506’0708’ThankstoChapoutier’s(seeFrance)consultancyandvinecuttings,thisQUINTAproducesPortugal’sbestSYRAH,inclLybra,ResandHomenagemAntonioCarqueja.NewSyrah242007isfrom60-yr-oldHermitagevines.V.gdVIOGNIER(Madrigal).Ex-AequoSyrah/TOURIGANACIONAL(0607’08)collaborationbetweenBento&Chapoutierhasfinished.

MoscateldoDouroDouLittleknownDOCcentredaroundhighFavaiosregionproducingsurprisinglyfresh,fortifiedMOSCATELGalego(MuscatàPetitGrains)torivalthoseofSETÚBAL.Lookoutfor:ADEGACooperativaFavaios,PORTAL,POÇAS(seePortchapter),NIEPOORT.

LovePinotNoirandNebbiolo?MatureBairradaBagaoffersmorebangforbuck.

Mouchão,HerdadedoAlenrw★★★→★★★★000103’05’0607Leadingtraditionalestate,focusedonAlicanteBouschet,inclvarietalfortifiedLicorosoandnewaguardentebagaceira(grappa).FlagshipTonel3-4isexceptional.PontedasCanasisacontemporaryblendofAlicanteBouschetwithTOURIGANACIONALandFranca,andSHIRAZ;DomRafaelisvalue.

Mouraz,CasadeDãoModernbutcharacterful,gd-valuewinesfromseveralfamily-ownedv’yds(140–400metres);theDão’s

firsttobeorganicallycultivated(certifiedsince1996).ALRlabelisfrombought-inDOURO,VINHOVERDEandALENTEJOorganicgrapes.

Mouro,QuintadoAlenr★★→★★★★990004’05’06’0708’Imposing,concentratedreds,mostlyALENTEJOgrapes,butalsoTOURIGANACIONAL(gdvarietal)andCABSAUV.FlagshipMouroGoldintopyrs(9900020506’07’08).Modern,forwardVinhadoMourogd-value.

Murganheira,Caves★LargestproducerofESPUMANTE.GdvintageBrutoisPINOTN.OwnsRAPOSEIRA.

NiepoortDourpw★★★→★★★★FamilyPortshipperandDourowinepioneerwithever-expandingrollcallofexceptionalwines,thelatestbeingCoche,awhiteripostetotheburgundy-styledCharme(r)andsingle-v’ydBioma(r).EstablishediconsinclRedoma(rpw,inclwRes)05’06’07’08’09’10;Robustus(r)040507’08;Batuta(r)0405’0708’09’10’;

Charme(r)05’0607’080910’.ExperimentalProjectosrangeinclDOURORIES(!),SAUVBL,PINOTN.Non-DourowinesinclDocil(VINHOVERDELOUREIRO)andLadredo(RibeiraSacra,Spain).Collaborateswidely,eg.withALVAROCASTRO,SOALHEIRO,alsoSpain’sEquipoNavazos,TelmoRodríguez,RaulPerez-Ultreia.

Noval,QuintadoDour★★★AXA-ownedPortshipper,since2004makingDOUROwines(orDurienseVRwhenwithSYRAH),inclgd-valueCedro,Labrador(100%Syrah,namedafterthewinemaker’sdog)andv.gdvarietalTOURIGANACIONAL.

PalmelaSetrw★→★★★CASTELÃO-focusedDOC.Canbelong-lived.

Passadouro,QuintadoDourw★★★WINE&SOUL’swinemakerJorgeSerôdioBorgesmakessuperblyconcentratedestatewinesinclold-vineRes(04’05’0607’0809’10).NewTOURIGANACIONALfromQUINTAdoSibioimpressive.Entrylabel,Passa

inclnewwhite,gd-value.Pato,FilipaBairrwsp★★★WithanewOis-basedwineryon

herfavouritechalky-claysoils,LUÍSPATO’sdynamicdaughteris100%focusedonBAIRRADA.Her“wineswithnomake-up”philosophyallowsNossaCalcarioBical(w)andBAGAtotransmittheirterroirperfectly.EspiritodeBagarevivesthefortifiedtradition.

Pato,LuísBairrwswsp★★→★★★★990001’03’0405’060708’09’1011’Fineseriouslyage-worthy,single-v’ydBaga:VinhasBarrio,Pan,BarrosaandflagshipQuintadoRibeirinhoPéFranco(ungraftedvinesonsandysoils).NewValadasv’yd2011PéFrancofromungraftedvinesonchalkyclaysoilsshowsbreathtakingelegance.Earlier-drinkingredsinclVinhasVelhas,QuintadoRibeirinho1stChoice(aBAGA/TOURIGANACIONALblend),JoãoPato(TourigaNacional),BagaRebel(fermentedonBicalskins)andawackyredFERNÃOPIRESfermentedonBaga

skins.Whitesgd,too,espsingle-v’ydVinhaFormal.SparklingwinesandsweetAbafadorangelessnuanced.

Pegões,AdegadeSetrpwswsp★→★★★Portugal’smostdynamicco-op.Gdrangefromtoptobottom,inclvarietalsandblendsofnativesandinternationals.Stellalabelandnewlow-alcoholNicowhiteoffergdcleanfruit.V.gdColheitaSeleccionada(rw)exceptionalvalue.

PenínsuladeSetúbalSetVR(formerlyTerrasdoSado).Establishedproducers(eg.ADEGADEPEGõES,BACALHOAVINHOSandCasaErmelindaFreitas)arelocatedonAzeitão’sgentlechalkyslopesorthemineral-richsandysoilsoftheSadoandTagusrivers.Newcomersliefurtherwestandsouth.Watch:HerdadesdaComportaandPortocarro,MalaTojo,Soberanas.

PeriquitaNicknamefortheCASTELÃOgrapeandsuccessfulbrandnameandtrademarkofJOSÉMARÍADAFONSECA.PeriquitaClassicoisoriginal100%Castelão;red,RES(androséand

white)featureothervarieties.Peso,HerdadedoAlen★→★★★SOGRAPE-ownedestatein

Vidigueira,southernALENTEJO.Benefitsofcoolinginfluences(theAtlantic,50kmawayandtheSerradePortel)revealedinaccomplishedrange,espflagshipÍconeandRes.

Poeira,QuintadoDourw★★★04’05’0607’08’09’10’QUINTADELAROSA’swinemakerJorgeMoreira’sownlabel.Elegantredfromcool,north-facingslopes.ClassysecondwinesPódePoeira(rw).CSisayoung-vineCABSAUVandDOURO-varietyblend.

Portal,QuintadoDourpwswsp★★★030405’0607080910Best-knownforoakymodernreds,inclGrandeResandflagshipAuru.Alsov.gdlate-harvestwineandfortifedMOSCATELdoDOURO.New:SparklingroséandFémina,theDouro’sfirstDoce(sweetwine).

PortalegreAlenrpw★→★★★WinewritersRichardMayson

(QUINTAdoCentro)andJoãoAfonso(Solstício/Equinócio),LisbonchefVitorClaro,renownedconsultantRuiReguinga(Terrenus)andformerQUINTADOCRASTOwinemakerSusanaEstebanhaveflockedtoALENTEJO’snorthernmostsubregion(DOC).ESPORÃOnowhasav’ydhere.Elevation,graniteandschist,oldvines(inclfieldblends)andgdrainfallaccountforfresh,structured,mineralwines.Aregiontowatch.

QuintaEstate(seeundername,eg.PORTAL,QUINTADO).

AlentejostillmakesVinhodetalhainamphorae.TheRomanswouldrecognizeit.

Ramos,JoãoPortugalAlenrwLeadingmodernist’sestate.FruitybutalwayselegantALENTEJOrange,espVilaSanta,RamosRes,QUINTAdaViçosaandMarquésdeBorba(inclv.gdRes0507080911’).New2011redsinclav.gdTOURIGANACIONALandstunningflagshipEstremus(AlicanteBouschet/TRINCADEIRA).

RaposeiraDouwsp★★Well-knownfizzwithnativevarietiesandCHARDmadebyclassicmethod.

RealCompanhiaVelhaDourpwsw★★→★★★AlsoknownasROYALOPORTO.POEIRA’sJorgeMoeira’seleganttouchnowevidentinDOUROclassicblendsfromthenorth-facingQUINTAdasCarvalhas.QuintadeCidroGEWURZandSeries(thelabelfortrialwines)Rufeteshowskillwithatypicalvarieties.

Romeira,Quintadaw★★→★★★LeadingBUCELASestatewithamoderntakeon“LisbonHock”.ARINTO-based,honeyed,ripe,citrus-streakedwines,bestaremineral,too.ProvaRegiaArintoisVRfromLISBOA.DOCwinesare(justoff-dry)RegiaPremiumandv.gd,oakedMorgadoStaCatherinaRes(bestdecanted).

Roques,QuintadosDãorwsp★★★(r)04050607’08’0910V.gd,age-worthyreds,espResandflagshipGARRAFEIRA(03’,08’).Benchmark,modernEncruzadoandvarietalTOURIGA

NACIONAL,TINTARORIZ,TintaCãoandAlfrocheiroPreto.Gd-value,entry-levelCorreiolabel.

Rosa,QuintadelaDourpw★★★05’0607’08’09’10Richbutelegantreds,espRes.DouROSAisbrightandjuicyand,incollaborationwithUKrestaurateursMarkHixandMitchTonks,isbottledasTONNIXwithBritartistTraceyEmin-designedlabels.QuintadasBandeirasPassagem(TONNIXGrandCrew)fromthewarmerDOUROSuperiorisspicier.Gdwhites,inclPassagem.

RosadoRosé;despitethesuccessofMATEUSROSÉ,thisisacuriouslyunexploitedcategory.GdpremiumexamplesinclNIEPOORT,CHURCHILL,CASADEMOURAZ,QUINTAdaFalorca.

Sant’Ana,Quintade★★→★★★English-ownedestateatMafra.ItsRIESandPINOTNarev.promising.

Santar,CasadeDãorw★★★UnderDÃOSULleadershipmakingpoisedredsandtexturedbutmineral,freshEncruzadowhites,

espflagshipCondessadeSantar,burgundianapproach.SãoJoão,CavesBairrwsp★★→★★★(rsp)9700010305

06Smalltraditionalfirmforv.gd,old-fashionedwines.Redsarebottle-agedpre-releaseandv.age-worthy.BAIRRADA:FreiJoão,PoçodoLobo.DÃO:PortadosCavaleiros.

SãoMiguel,HerdadedeAlenrpw★★→★★★Dynamicoperationmakingsmart,modernwines.Entry-levelCiconia,inclResandfirmerMontinhogd-value.SãoMiguellabelsdenoteserious,well-definedestatewines,espResandDosDescobridoresrange.PrivateCollectionisshowier.SameteambehindimpressivenewHerdadedaPimenta.

SecoDry.Setúbal(r)(w)br(dr)sw★★★TinyDOCsouthoftheriver

Tagus.FortifieddessertwinesmainlyMOSCATEL,inclrareredMoscatelRoxo.Mainproducers:BACALHOAVINHOS,JOSÉMARIADAFONSECA.Watch:AntónioSaramago,HoráciodosReis

Simões,AdrianoTiago.Soalheiro,QuintadeVinwsp★★★030607’08’09101112

ProducesconcentratedALVARINHOfromwarmMelgaçov’yd.EvenbasicVINHOVERDEisage-worthy.Alsobarrel-fermentedResand,withDirkNIEPOORT’sadvice,stunningold-vinePrimeirasVinhasandoff-dryDócil,alsothenewnameofNiepoort’sLOUREIRO(formerlyGirosol).

SograpeVin★→★★★★ThisisPortugal’sbiggestplayermakingbothMATEUSROSÉandBARCAVELHA–jewelsinthecrownforcontrastingreasons.TheportfolioencompassesVINHOVERDE(AZEVEDO,GazelaandMorgadiodaTorre),DÃO(CARVALHAIS),ALENTEJO(HERDADEDOPESO)andDOURO(BARCAVELHA,alsoFerreira,SandemanandOffleyPort).ApproachablemultiregionalbrandsinclGrãoVasco,PenadePatoandCallabriga.NewisLegado,ahighlypolishedpremiummodernDouroredfromQUINTAdoCaedo,madeinconsultancywith

ItalianwinemakerAlbertoAntonini.SymingtonFamilyEstatesDourw★★→★★★★Portshipper

producingserioustablewinessince2000,inclCHRYSEIAwithBrunoPratsandatQUINTAsdoVesúvioandRoriz.AltanobrandisfromthreeorganicDOUROSuperiorv’ydsinVilariçaValley.Entry-levelwhiteandredhaveshiftedupagear;v.gdorganicredand100%TOURIGANACIONALQuintadoAtaideRes(replacesRes).

TejorwTheDOCandVRoftheareaaroundtheriverTagus.Fertileengine-roomofgd-valuewinesfromnativevinesnowraisingitsgamewithTOURIGANACIONAL,TINTARORIZ,CABSAUV,SYRAH,PINOTN,CHARD,SAUVBLonpoorersoils.SolidperformersinclCASALBRANCO,QUINTAdaAlornaandFALUA.MoreambitiousinclQUINTADALAGOALVA,PinhaldaTorre,RuiReguinga(Tributo),CascaWines(MonteCascaFernãoPires)and,untilsadlymothballed,Valed’Algares.

TintoRed.Trás-os-MontesMountainousinlandDOC,justnorthofDOURO;(VR

Transmontano).Leadinglight:VALLEPRADINHOS.ValeDonaMaria,QuintadoDourpw★★★→★★★★03’

04’05’0607’08’09’10CristianovanZellermakesv.gdplushyetelegantreds,inclCV,CasadeCasaldeLoivosandsubtlyrichwhiteVZ.Gd-valueVanZellersrangeisfrombought-infruit.New:powerfulsingle-parcelVinhadoRioandforwardbutelegantTourigaFranca-ledRufodoVale,bothfromfamily-ownedv’yds.

ValeMeão,QuintadoDour★★★→★★★★04’050607’0809’10’LeadingDOUROSuperiorestate;oncethesourceofBARCAVELHA.AmarkedshifttowardseleganceistemperingleadgrapeTOURIGANACIONAL’sexcesses,espinnew,mineralGranite.V.gdsecondlabel:Meandro.

ValladoDourpw★★★(r)0405’060708’09’10Dynamic

familyestateatRegua,withDOUROSuperiorv’yd,too(QUINTAdoOrgal).DesignedbyFranciscoVieiradeCampos,thenewwinery,boutiquehotelandbespokewoodenboxforrarepre-phylloxeraAdelaideTributaVeryOldPortscreamluxury.YetDOUROwinesarereasonablypriced,inclv.gdRes,flagshipold-vineredAdelaide(050708’09’),varietalSousão,TOURIGANACIONALanddryMOSCATEL.

VallePradinhosMAromatic,breezy,modernyetcharacterfulblendsfrommtnv’yds.PortaVelhahasBeaujolais’floralappeal;thewhiteblend(RIES,GEWURZandMALVASIAFina)isunique.

MateusRoséisclaimed–notbyMateus–tohavebeenthefavouritedrinkofSaddamHussein.

VinhoRegional(VR)SamestatusasFrenchVindePays.MoreleewayforexperimentationthanDOC.

VinhoVerderwsp★→★★★DOCbetweenriverDOUROandnorthfrontier,forfresh“greenwines”.Largebrands(DYA),eg.CasalGarcíausuallyblendswithaddedcarbondioxide.Bestaresingle-QUINTA,unspritzyandage-worthy,espALVARINHOfromMonçâoandMelgaço(eg.ANSELMOMENDES,QUINTADESOALHEIRO,doReguengo,deMelgaço,DOFEITAL)andLOUREIROfromLima(eg.QUINTADOAMEAL,APHROS,NIEPOORTDocil).RedVinhãograpeisanacquiredtaste,butworthatry(eg.APHROS).

Wine&SoulDourw(rPintas)05’0607’08’09’10’WinemakingcoupleSandraTavares’andJorgeSerôdioBorges’intensewinesinclstunningGuru(w),elegantQuintadaManoellaanddenserPintasfromneighbouringsites.Plusv.gdsecondlaebls(r):PintasCharacterandnewManoella(r).V.gdPorts,too(seePortchapter),inclVeryOldTawny.

Port,Sherry&Madeira

ThecuriousthingaboutSherryrightnowisthatwhileSpainisgenerallylickingitswounds,Sherryproducersseemtobeleadingthewaywithnewideas.ThereareEnRamabottlingsofFino:catchquicklyforthefewweeksthey’reonsaleasthey’rebottledwithoutfiltrationandarenotforkeeping.ThereareFinoswithextraageandbottlingsofsinglebarrels;allsortsofspecialitiesarebeingreleasedfromthecellars.AndaswementionintheWine&Foodchapter,thediscoveryoftheyearishowwellgoodSherryaccompaniesIndianfood.Lotsofdifferentfoods,infact.

NotthatPortproducersarerestingontheirlaurels.Tawnyseemstobewheretheactionis(althoughthe2011VintagePortsaremustsforthecellar):super-old,super-premiumTawniesandColheitasarebeingseenbythePorthousesaswaysofbeatingprice

pressureatthebottomend.Pricescanbedizzying,comparedtowhatwe’reusedto.Madeirathinksalongthesamelines,andage-datedblendsof20yearsoldandmoreareontheincrease.Thesearemerebabes-in-arms,though,comparedtothosethatcanstillbefoundatauction:150yearsoldandstillcounting.

RecentPortvintages“Declared”whenthewineisoutstandingandmeetstheshippers’higheststandards.Ingoodbutnotquiteclassicyearsmostshippersnowusethenamesoftheirquintas(estates)forsingle-quintawinesofgreatcharacterbutneedinglessageinginbottle.Thevintagestodrinknoware1966,1970,1977,1980,1983,1985,1987,1992,1994.2012Verygood,perhapsgreat,thoughwillanyonedeclaretwo

yearsinarow?2011Classicyear,widelydeclared.Inky,aromaticwines;deep

reservesoffruit.2010 Single-quintayear.Hot,drybuthigheryieldsthan2009.

Stars:Vesuvio,DowdaSenhoradaRibeira.2009Controversialyear.DeclaredbyFladgate,butnotSymington

orSogrape.Stars:Taylor’s,Niepoort,Fonseca,Warre’s.

2008 Single-quintayear.Low-yielding,powerfulwines.Stars:Noval,Vesuvio,TaylorTerraFeita,Passadouro.

2007Classicyear,widelydeclared.Deep-coloured,richbutwell-balancedwines.Taylor’sandVesuvioarestars.

2006Difficult;handfulsingle-quintas.Vesuvio,Roriz,BarrosQuintaGaleira.

2005 Single-quintayear.Stars:Niepoort,TaylordeVargellas,DowdaSenhoradaRibeira–ironfistinvelvetglove.

2004 Single-quintayear.Stars:Pintas,TaylordeVargellasVinhaVelha,QuintadelaRosa–balanced,elegantwines.

2003Classicvintageyear.Hot,drysummer.Powerfullyripe,concentratedwines,universallydeclared.Drinkfrom2015–20.

2001 Single-quintayear.Stars:NovalNacional,FonsecadoPanascal,doValeMeão–wetyear;relativelyforwardwines.

2000Classicyear.Averyfinevintage,universallydeclared.Rich,

well-balancedwinesforthelongterm.Drinkfrom2018.1999 Single-quintayear.Stars:Vesuvio,TaylordeTerraFeita,do

Infantado–smallestvintagefordecades;powerful.AlmacenistaSmallproducer,typicallyasourceofindividual,

complexsherries.Oftensuperb,eg.CayetanodelPinoPaloCortadoViejísimo.LUSTAUmanagesanoutstandingportfolio.Literallyawholesaler.

ÁlvaroDomecq★★→★★★Founded1998,basedonSOLERAsofPilarAranda,JEREZ’soldestbodega.Polished,elegantwines.GdFinoLaJanda.Excellent1730VORSseries,inclPaloCortado,Oloroso.

AlvearMont-M★★→★★★★LargestMONTILLAproducerofv.gdFINO-likeapéritif,espFinoCB.Leaderinexceptionallysweet,raisinedPX.Silky,suppleSOLERA1927.

Andresen★★→★★★Family-ownedhouse.V.gdwood-aged

Ports,esp20-yr-oldTAWNY,grandoldColheitas(1900’and1910’stillbottledondemand;1980’91’97,00)andage-datedWHITEPORTs(inclnew40-yr-old).

Barbadillo★→★★★★Theformerbishop’spalacedominatingSANLÚCARisappropriateforsuchasignificantproducer.SolearManzanillaisalocalfavouriteatferia.AlsocharacterfulManzanillaEnRama,withfourseasonalsacas,andsomeofSanlúcar’sfinestSherries:PríncipeAmontillado;spicy,pepperyObispoGascónPaloCortado;buttery,mahoganyCucoDryOloroso;Reliquíarangeisoutstanding,espAmontilladoandthetangy,precisePaloCortado.MakesalocallypopularbudgetwhitefromPALOMINO.

Barbeito★★→★★★Go-aheadhouserunbyRicardoFreitasnowsportscontemporarylabelsonfinelyhoned,no-added-caramelwines.RacyCOLHEITAS;single-caskwinesespcomplex,asare20-yr-oldand30-yr-oldMALVASIA.Unusual

VERDELHO/BUALblendisv.gd.New:RainwaterRes5-yr-oldMedium/Dry.

BarrosAlmeida★→★★★Wood-agedPortisthefocusofthisSogevinus-ownedhouse(alongwithFeist,Feuerheerd,KOPKE).V.gd20-yr-oldTAWNY,COLHEITAS(74’78’)andWHITEPORTs,inclVeryOldDryWhiteand1935Colheita.

BarroseSousa★★★Third-generationproducer.Tinyoutputof100%CANTEIRO-agedMadeira,allhand-bottled/stencilled.Rarevintages(Terrantez1979,VERDELHO1983),BastardoOldRes,gd10-yr-old;unusual5-yr-oldListraoblend.Noexport.

Blandy★★→★★★★TheBlandyfamilyinitsbicentenaryyear2012retookcontroloftheMADEIRAWINECOMPANY.A6hav’ydhasbeenleasedandplansareafoottomovethewineryoutsideFunchal.VasthistoricFunchallodgesoffervisitorsrichpickings,inclfineoldvintages(eg.BUAL1920’,1968’,MALMSEY1985,Terrantez1976,SERCIAL1910’)andyounger

COLHEITAs(Malmsey1996,2001,VERDELHO1995,SingleHarvest2006).New:20-yr-oldTerrantez.

Borges,HM★→★★★Familycompany;v.gd,fruity10-yr-olds;new20-yr-oldVERDELHO.

Bual(orBoal)ClassicMadeiragrape:tangy,smoky,sweetwines;notasrichasMALMSEY.Perfectwithcheeseandlighterdesserts.

Burmester★→★★★SmallSogevinus-ownedhouse.Best:sophisticated20-and40-yr-oldTAWNY,COLHEITAs(55’89)andage-datedWHITEPORTs,inclfine40-yr-old.

Butt600-litrebarreloflong-maturedAmericanoakforSherry.Filled5/6full,allowsspaceforFLOR.SherrycaskspopularinScotland:addsfinalpolishtowhisky.

Cálem★→★★★Sogevinus-owned.Velhotesismainbrand.V.gdCOLHEITAs(61,89’)and40-yr-oldTAWNY.New:ROSÉPORTwithbraillelabeland10-yr-oldWHITEPORT.

CanteiroMethodofnaturallyageingthefinestMadeirainwarm,

humidlodges(warehouses).Subtler,morecomplexwinesthanESTUFAGEM.

ChipionaMOSCATELgrapesproductionzoneforSherry.Best:CésarFlorido.

Churchill★★★Arelativenewcomerinanoldgame.NewVILANOVADEGAIAvisitorcentreoffersgdtastingoptions.V.gdVINTAGEPORT(8285919497000307’[11],Single-QUINTAdaGricha(000103’0405’060709’)andLBV.BenchmarkWHITEPORTandelegant20-yr-oldTAWNY.

Cockburn★★→★★★HistoricshipperboughtbySYMINGTONFAMILYESTATESin2010;upgradesforVILANOVADEGAIAlodge,SpecialResRuby(onceagainbeingagedforlongerinwood),VINTAGEPORT(6367707583’9194970003’07’[11])andsingle-QUINTAQuintadosCanais(01’05’0607’0809’).

ColheitaVintage-datedPortorMadeiraofasingleyr,cask-agedatleast7yrsforPortand5yrsforMadeira.Bottlingdateshown

onthelabel.CondedePeralejaSherryestate,formerlyretirementhomefor

Carthusianmonks.Onewineonly:SaltoalCieloOloroso,whichreferstotheircoming“jumptoHeaven”.SelectedbyBeltránDomecq,much-respectedformerwinemakerandnowpresidentofconsejoregulador.

CossartGordonMADEIRAWINECOMPANY-ownedbrand;higher,coolerv’ydsandlongerfermentproducesdrierstylethanBLANDY.V.gd5-yr-oldRES,COLHEITAs(SERCIAL1991,Bual1995,1997,MALVASIA1996,1998,Harvest1999)andoldvintages(1977Terrantez,1908,1961BUAL).

Croft★★→★★★HistoricshipperacquiredbyFLADGATEin2001.Foot-treadinghasmuchimproveditssweet,fleshyVINTAGEPORT(63’66707577828591940003’0709’[11]).QuintadaRoêdaislighter.Popularstyles:Indulgence,TripleCrown,DistinctionandpioneeringPink,aROSÉPORT.

CroftJerezOwnedbyGONZÁLEZBYASS.Sweetish,dullCroftOriginalPaleCream.

CrustedPortofRESRUBYquality,usuallynon-vintage,bottledyoungthenagedsoitthrowsadeposit,or“crust”;needsdecanting.Gd:GRAHAMS,FONSECA,CHURCHILLS.

Delaforce★★→★★★PortshipperownedbyREALCOMPANHIAVELHA,makingtablewinessince2010.FLADGATEmakesthePorts.CuriousandAncient20-yr-oldTAWNYandColheitas(647988)arejewels;VINTAGEPORTsimproved(6670’7577828592’94000307).

DelgadoZuleta★★Historic(1744)SANLÚCARfirm.LaGoyaisManzanillaPasada.ToprangeisMonteagudoespAmontilladoViejo.Powerful,piercing,40-yr-oldQuoVadis?Amontilladoisanoriginal.

DiosBaco★→★★Family-ownedJEREZbodegabasedonoldSOLERAS;namedafterBacchus.Producerofbrandies,vinegars

andpopularSherries.BacoImperialVOSandVORSwinesarethestars,espVORSPaloCortado.

DomecqHistoricnameinSherry,SOLERASdispersedaftertakeovers.OutstandingVORSwinesnowsoldbyOSBORNE;LaIna,Botaina,RioViejo,Viña25byLUSTAU.

DouroTheriverofthePortcountry,lendingitsnametotheregion.Subregions:BaixoCorgoand,bestforPort,Cima(Upper)CorgoandDouroSuperior.ComesfromSpain,whereitistheDuero.

Dow★★★→★★★★HistoricshipperownedbySymingtonFamilyEstates.Traditionallydrierstyle;single-QUINTAVINTAGEPORTsshowterroirdifferences:Bomfim(firm),daSenhoradaRibeira(opulent).V.gdrange,inclCRUSTED,20-and30-yr-oldTAWNYandvintage(636670727577808385’91949700’0307’[11]).

EmilioHidalgo★★★→★★★★Picturesquefamilybodega,

classicwines.Followingtradition,thoughnottoday’scustom,allwines(exceptPX)startbyspendingtimeunderFLOR.Excellentmature(15yrsold)LaPanesaFino,suppleGobernadorOloroso,v.rarePrivilegioPaloCortado1860andSantaAnaPX1861.

EquipoNavazos★★★★SuperbcollectionofSherriescreatedbyagroup(equipo)ofspecialistswhosourceandbottleoutstandingsinglebuttsfromSOLERAS,originallyforthemselves,nowsoldcommercially.QualityofprojecthashelpedtorestoreinterestinfineSherry.Numberingofbottlingsstartedat1,eg.Bota(BUTT)no1;LaBotadeAmontilladoNPIno5;LaBotadePaloCortadono21.NBManzanilla“IThink”.AlsomakingPALOMINOtablewinewithDirkNIEPOORT,andsparklingwineinPenedèswithSergiColet.

EstufagemBulkprocessofslowlyheating,thencooling,cheaperMadeirastoattaincharacteristicscorched-earthtang;lesssubtle

thanCANTEIROprocess,thoughshifttoc.45°Cfrom50°Cisimprovingfreshness.

FernandodeCastilla★★→★★★★Smallbodegabrilliantlyrevivedsince2000byJanPettersen.GdreliableClassicrangeofSherries.OutstandingAntiquerangewithminhandling:allqualifyasVOSorVORS,thoughPettersenavoidsthesystem.Complex,8-yr-oldFino,fortifiedtotraditionalbutunusual17%,outstandingAmontillado,PaloCortado,Oloroso,PX.Alsov.finebrandy,andvinegar.

SherrystylesManzanillaFashionablypale,drySherry:fresh,green-applecharacter;apopular,unchallengingintroductiontotheflavoursofSherry.Matured(thoughnotnecessarilygrown)inthehumid,maritimeconditionsofSANLÚCARDEBARRAMEDA,where

theFLORgrowsmorethickly,andthewineissaidtoacquireasaltytang.Drinkcoldfromanewlyopenedbottlewithtapas(oroysters).Donotkeep.Eg.HEREDEROSDEARGÜESO,SanLeónRes.ManzanillaPasadaManzanillaagedlongerthanmost;v.dry,complex,eg.HIDALGO-LAGITANA’ssingle-v’ydManzanillaPasadaPastrana.FinoDry;weightierthanManzanilla;2yrsagemin(asManzanilla),eg.GONZÁLEZBYASSTíoPepe.ServeasManzanilla.Don’tkeep.TrendformatureFinosaged6–8yrsegFERNANDODECASTILLAAntique.AmontilladoAFinoinwhichthelayerofprotectiveyeastFLORhasdied,allowingthewinetooxidize,creatingmorecomplexity.Naturallydry.Eg.LUSTAULosArcos.Commercialstylesmaybesweetened.OlorosoNotagedunderFLOR.Heavier,lessbrilliantwhenyoung,maturestonuttyintensity.Naturallydry.Maybe

sweetenedwithPXandsoldasdulce.Eg.EmilioHIDALGOGobernador(dr),OldEastIndia(sw).Keepswell.PaloCortadoV.fashionable.TraditionallyawinethathadlostitsFLOR–betweenAmontilladoandOloroso.Todayoftenblendedtocreatethestyle.Difficulttoidentifywithcertainty,thoughsomesuggestithasakey“lactic”or“bitterbutter”note.Dry,rich,complex:worthlookingfor.Eg.BARBADILLOReliquía,FERNANDODECASTILLAAntique.CreamBlendsweetenedwithgrapemust,PX,and/orMOSCATELforaninexpensive,medium-sweetstyle.Unashamedlycommercial.Eg.HARVEY’SBristolCream,CROFTPaleCream.EQUIPONAVAZOSLaBotaNo.21isoutstandingexception.EnRamaManzanillaorFinobottledfromBUTTwithlittleornofiltrationorcoldstabilizationtorevealfullcharacterofSherry.Moreflavoursome,lessstable,henceunpopularwithsomeretailers.Backinfashionwithtrendformorenaturalwines.Thesaca,orwithdrawalistypicallywhenFLORismostabundant,in

springandautumn.Eg.BARBADILLO,GONZÁLEZBYASS,HIDALGO-LAGITANA.Keepinfridge,drinkupquickly.PedroXiménez(PX)Raisined,sweet,dark,frompartlysun-driedPXgrapes(grapesmainlyfromMONTILLA;winematuredinJerezDO).Concentrated,unctuous,decadent,bargain.Sipwithice-cream.Overall,world’ssweetestwine.Eg.EMILIOHIDALGOSantaAna1861,LustauVORS.MoscatelAromaticappeal,aroundhalfthesugarofPX.Eg.LustauEmilín,VALDESPINOToneles.UnlikePX,notrequiredtobefortified.Nowpermittedtobecalled“JEREZ”.VOS/VORSAge-datedsherries:someofthetreasuresoftheJEREZbodegas.Exceptionalqualityandmaturityatrelativelylowprices.Winesassessedbycarbondatingtobemorethan20yrsoldarecalledVOS(VeryOldSherry/VinumOptimumSignatum);thoseover30yrsoldareVORS(VeryOldRareSherry/VinumOptimumRareSignatum).Also12-yr-oldand15-yr-oldegs.AppliesonlytoAmontillado,Oloroso,Palo

Cortado,PX.Eg.VOSHIDALGOJerezCortadoWellington.SomeVORSwinescanbebitterorattenuatedandmaybesoftenedwithPX–occasionallyproducerscanbeovergenerouswiththePX.Añada“Vintage”Sherrywithadeclaredvintage.Runscountertotraditionofvintage-blendedSOLERA.Formerlyprivatebottlingsnowwinningpublicaccolades.Eg.LustauSweetOlorosoAñada1997.

Ferreira★★→★★★HistoricPorthouse,SOGRAPE-owned.Espgd,spicyRES(DonAntónia);10-and20-yr-oldTAWNY(QuintadoPorto,DuquedeBragança).VINTAGE(6670757778808283858790919495’97000307’[11]);v.gdLBVontheup.

FladgateIndependentfamily-ownedpartnership.OwnsleadingPorthousesTAYLOR,FONSECA,CROFTandTheYeatmanluxuryhotel,hometoOporto’sfirstMichelin-starredrestaurantanda

25,000bottlewinecellar.FlorSpanishfor“flower”:referstothelayerofSaccharomyces

yeaststhatdevelopnaturallyandliveontopofFino/ManzanillaSherryinaBUTT5/6full.Florconsumesoxygenandothercompounds(processknownas“biologicalageing”)andprotectswinefrombrowning(oxidation).TraditionalAmontilladosbeginasFinosorManzanillasbeforetheflordiesnaturallyorwithadditionoffortifyingspirit.FlorgrowsathickerlayernearertheseaatELPUERTODESANTAMARÍAandSANLÚCAR,hencelightercharacterofSherrythere.

FonsecaGuimaraens★★★→★★★★FLADGATE-ownedPorthouse;founded,ittranspires,in1815,not1822asithadthought.V.gdBin27andorganicTerraPrimaRES,SumptuousyetstructuredVINTAGEPORT(63’66’707577’808385’9294’9700’03’0709[11]);nowfocusedonsingle-QUINTAPanascalinsteadofearlier-maturingGuimaraensifnoclassicdeclaration.

Frasqueira“Vintage”(singleyr)Madeirabottledafteratleast20yrsinwood,usuallymuchlonger.Dateofbottlingcompulsory;thelongerincask,themoreconcentratedandcomplex.

Garvey★→★★OneofthegreatoldnamesofJEREZ,nowwithanuncertainfuture.FormerlyownedbyRUIZ-MATEOSfamily,asareSoto,TeresaRivero,VALDIVIA.Treasures:SanPatricioFino,TíoGuillermoAmontillado,theage-dated1780line.

GonzálezByass★★★→★★★★GB(founded1845)remainsafamilybusiness,renewingitselfwithenthusiasm.CellarmasterAntonioFloresmanagesanimpressiveportfolio,inclthemostfamousofFinos:TíoPepe.FromsameSOLERAcomesanEnRama,releasedinthespring.Newestlaunch:fascinatingPalmasrange:3agedFinos(6-,8-,10-yrs-old)plusrareAmontillado.Alsov.fine,polishedViñaABAmontillado,ApóstolesPaloCortado,MatúsalemOloroso,outstanding,ultra-richNoëPX.Extensiveinterestsinbrandy;tablewines,inclBeronia(Rioja),

Vilarnau(Penedès),ViñasdelVero(Somontano).AlsoownsCROFTJEREZ.

GouldCampbell★★★Lesser-knownSymingtonFamilyEstates-ownedPortshipper,nottiedtospecificQUINTAssohasfreereignandcanpunchaboveitsweight.Gd-value,full-bodiedVINTAGEPORTs(7077’8083’85’9194970003’07).

Graham★★★→★★★★PrestigiousSymingtonFamilyEstates-ownedPorthouse.Fullrange:espgdSixGrapesResRuby;revamped100%VILANOVADEGAIA-aged(fresher)age-datedTAWNYrange;rareCOLHEITAS(52’,61’69);age-worthysingle-QUINTA(dosMalvedos);VINTAGE(636670’7577’8083’85’91’94’9700’03’07’[11]).

GranCruz★ThesinglebiggestPortbrand,ownedbyLaMartiniquaise.Light,low-priceTAWNY,alsoROSÉPORT.

Guita,La★→★★★EspfineManzanilla.OwnedbyGrupoEstévez,whichalsoownsVALDESPINO.Drinkcold,often,esp

withlunch.GutiérrezColosía★→★★★FormerALMACENISTAonGuadalete

River,ELPUERTODESANTAMARÍA;oneofthefewbodegasremaininginthetown.ExcellentoldPaloCortado.

Harvey’s★→★★★MajorproducernowownedbyBeamGlobal.FamedforBristolCream.GdFinoandVORS.VORSwinesdoshowbrisknessofoldage.

Henriques&Henriques★★→★★★★Madeirashipper,uniquelywithownv’yds(11ha).Pioneerofbreezy,extra-dryapéritifMonteSeco,20-yr-oldMALVASIAandTerrantezandseasoningandusingseasonedwhiskyandBourbonbarrels.Strongontradition,too,esp10–15yr-old(NBSercial),vintage(eg.VERDELHO1934,Terrantez1954,Malvasia1954,BUAL1957’)andrareSOLERAwines(eg.CenturyMalmsey-Solera1900).

HerederosdeArgüeso★★→★★★OneofSANLÚCAR’stop

Manzanillaproducerswithv.gdSanLeón,denseandsaltySanLeónResandyouthfulLasMedallas;alsoimpressivelylivelyVORSAmontilladoViejo.

Hidalgo-LaGitana★★→★★★★Established(1972)familyfirmfrontedbyJavierHidalgo,withlight,delicateManzanillaLaGitana.NewEnRamaLaGitanareleaseisbrilliantlyexpressive.Intense,savoury,single-v’yd,agedPastranaManzanillaPasadainimpressivecontrasttomostManzanillas.AlsofineOloroso,treaclyPX,v.gdVORSrange,incloutstandingWellingtonPaloCortado.

JerezdelaFronteraCentreofSherryindustry,betweenCádizandSeville.“Sherry”isacorruptionoftheancientname,pronouncedhereth.InFrench,Xérès.HenceDOisJerez-Xérès-Sherry.

Justino★→★★★LargestMadeirashipper,ownedbyrumgiantLaMartiniquaise.MadeiraundertheBroadbentlabel,too.Esp

knownforTINTANEGRACOLHEITA(1996’,1999)andTerrantezOldResNV.Pioneeringuseoforganicgrapes(certified2008),noworganicspirit,too.

Kopke★→★★★TheoldestPorthouse(1638)andmarket-leaderinwood-agedstyles.V.gdCOLHEITAs(38’,6680’878991’)andage-datedTAWNYandWHITEPort–outstanding40-yr-olds.ROSÉPORT,too.

Krohn★→★★★Family-ownedPortshipper.Gd20-and30-yr-oldTAWNY,excellentCOLHEITAs(61’66’67’76’82’83’87’9197).VINTAGEPORTsontheup(07’09),inclsingle-QUINTAdoRetiroNovo.NewROSÉPORT.

LBV(LateBottledVintage)Robust,thesedaysbrighter-fruitedPortfromasingleyr,keptinwoodfortwiceaslongasVINTAGEPORT(around5yrs).Commercialstylesbroachableonreleaseanddonotneeddecanting.Bestareage-worthyunfilteredversions,eg.CHURCHILL,FERREIRA,NIEPOORT,QuintadoNova,

QUINTADONOVAL,SMITHWOODHOUSE,WARRE.

SercialMadeiraisumamiheavenwithsoy-dressedsushi,sashimiandtatakidishes.

LeacockDistinguishedhistorybut,sinceacquiredfromWilliamLeacockbytheMADEIRAWINECOMPANYin1981,focusedonvolume,espStJohnbrand.Newpackagingheraldsafreshstart.Watchthisspace.

Lustau★★★→★★★★Bodegafamousforwiderangeofexcellentindividualwinesunderstarcapataz(winemaker)ManuelLozano.PioneeredtheidentifyingandshippingofALMACENISTAsherries.LozanohasrecentlyrestoredLaInaFinotoitsformerglory.Otherv.gdsherriesinclBotainaAmontillado,EastIndiaSolera,MOSCATELEmilín,VORSPXisoutstanding,carryingageandsweetnesslightly.Oneofthefewtoreleasevintagesherries,eg.profoundOlorosoAñada97.

MadeiraWineCompanyAnassociationofall26BritishMadeiracompanies.Originallyformedin1913byjusttwofirms,itaccountsforover50%ofbottledMadeiraexports.BLANDYfamilyresumesreinsafter20yrsinpartnershipwithSYMINGTONFAMILYESTATES.Principalbrands:BLANDY,COSSARTGORDON,LEACOCK,Miles;eachretainsownhousestyle.Blandy,CossartGordonleadthepack.AllexceptbasicwinesCANTEIRO-aged.

MaestroSierra★→★★★Small,traditionallyrunbodegaownedbyJEREZ’sgrandestdamePilarPláPechovierto,widowofadirectdescendantoftheALMACENISTAfounder(1832),andherdaughterCarmenBorrego.TopwinesarethetinyproductionofexcellentVORSwines.

Malmsey(MalvasiaCandida)Sweetest,richestoftraditionalMadeiragrapes,yetwithMadeira’suniquesharptang.Perfectmatch:richfruit,chocolatepuddings.

MarquésdelRealTesoro★★FineTíoMateoFino.Partof

GrupoEstévez.MontecristoMont-MBrandofpopularMONTILLAsbyCompañía

VinícoladelSur.Montilla-Moriles★→★★★AndalucianDO,nrCórdoba.Once

knownforitscheaperversionsofFinostyles,nowknownforthequalityofitssun-driedsuper-sweetPXgrapes,somewithlongageinginSOLERA.Stillgreatvalue.Topproducers:ALVEAR,PÉREZBARQUERO,TOROALBALÁ.ImportantsourceofPXforuseinDOJEREZ.

Niepoort★★★→★★★★Smallfamily-runPorthouse;sensationaltablewinesandtopnotchrangeofVINTAGEPORTsinclclassic(6670’757778808283879192949700’0305’0709’[11])uniquegarrafeira(agedindemijohns)andsingle-v’ydBioma(formerly“Pisca”).ExceptionalTAWNY,COLHEITAsand,tocelebrate170thanniversary,VV–a999-bottleTawnyblend,whosebasecomponentisan1863Port.Alsonowmaking

whitewinewithEQUIPONAVAZOSinJerez.Noval,Quintado★★★→★★★★Elegantyetstructured

VINTAGEPORT(63’66677075788285879194’9597’00’03’0407’08’[11]),espintense,slow-maturingNacionalfrom2.5haofungraftedvinesoftenmadeoutsideclassicdeclaredyrs.Secondvintagelabel:Silval.V.gdage-datedTAWNY,COLHEITAS;single-estateunfilteredLBV.Early-drinkingNovalBlackRESandtablewinesfromyoungerv’yds.

Offley★→★★FreshmodernlabelssignpostSOGRAPE’sfruit-drivenbrand.GdTAWNYPorts(inclvolumelabelDukeofOportoand10-yr,20-yr,30-yr),alsoBoaVistaVintage.Apéritif/cocktailstylesinclCachucaRESWHITEPORTandROSÉPORT.

Osborne★★→★★★★HistoricbodegadominatingELPUERTODESANTAMARÍA.TablewinesinRioja,Rueda,RiberadelDuero,too;renownedforitsbrandies.FinoQuinta,matureCoquinero

FinoAmontilladoclassicofElPuerto;silkyBailénOloroso.OwnsformerDOMECQVORSstarsincl51-1aAmontillado,CapuchinoPaloCortado.OtherscarcitiesinclAOSAmontillado,PΔPPaloCortado.

Paternina,Federico★★→★★★OwnedbyRiojaproducer.BasedonthecellarsofDíezHermanos.Light,youngSherries;plussuperbagedVORS.Excellent,uniqueAmontillado-styleFinoImperial,VictoriaReginaOloroso,ViejaSoleraPX.

Pereirad’OliveiraVinhos★★★Family-ownedhousewithvastselectionofrare,oldFRASQUEIRA(labelledRes),someover100yrsold.Characterful,sometimesfunky,theyarebottledondemand(eg.19371971’SERCIAL,1966VERDELHO,1912’1978’BUAL,1977Terrantez).15-yr-oldwinesupwardsCANTEIRO-aged.

PérezBarqueroMont-M★→★★★AleaderinrevivalofMONTILLAPX.FineGranBarqueroFino,Amontillado,Oloroso;

v.gdLaCañadaPX.Poças★★→★★★Portuguese-owned4th-generationPorthouse

knownespforitsTAWNYandCOLHEITAPorts(67’86’91’94’00).GdLBV;recentvintages(9700’030405’07’09).GdROSÉPORT.

PuertodeSantaMaría,ElOneofthethreetownsformingtheMarcodeJerezor“SherryTriangle”.Productionnowinseriousdecline;remainingbodegasinclformerALMACENISTAGUTIÉRREZCOLOSÍA,OSBORNEandTERRY.PuertoFinosareprizedbecausethetown’sclosenesstothecoastmakeswineslessweightythanJEREZ,notas“salty”asSANLÚCAR.

QuintaPortuguesefor“estate”;traditionallydenotedVINTAGEPORTsfromshipper’ssinglev’yds;declaredingd,notexceptionalyrs,butgrowersincreasinglymakingsingle-QUINTAPortintopyrs.Risingstars:Duorum,daGaivosa,Passadouro,Romaneira,Tedo,Whytingham’sValeMeão,ValeDMaria,WINE&SOUL’s

Pintas.

Rainfallin(hot,dry)JerezisslightlyhigherthaninStAlbans,Hertfordshire.

RamosPinto★★★DynamichouseownedbyChampagneRoederer.Rich,forwardVINTAGEPORT.Outstandingsingle-QUINTA(deErvamoira)andrepackagedRPage-datedTAWNYrange,inclunusualsingle-v’ydQUINTAdeErvamoira(10-yr-old)anddoBomRetiro(20-yr-old).

Reserve/ReservaBetterthanbasicpremiumPorts,bottledwithoutavintagedateorageindication.MostlyRUBY;someTAWNYandWHITEPORT.New:QUINTAdoCrasto(seePortugalchapter)FinestRes.

RoséPortGrowinggenerationXcategory(2009)promptedbyCROFT’spioneering“Pink.”Servechilled,oniceor,mostlikely,inacocktail.

RoyalOporto★→★★REALCOMPANHIAVELHA’smainPortbrand(alsoownsQUINTAdeVentozeloandDELAFORCE).GdTAWNY(average5yrsinwood),COLHEITAsandVINTAGEPORTs.AlsoROSÉPORT.

Rozès★★★PortshipperownedbyChampagnehouseVranken.VINTAGEPORT,inclLBV,sourcedfromownyoungDOUROSuperiorQUINTAS(Grifo,Anibal,Canameira).TerrasdoGrifoVintageisblendofallthree(07,09’);v.gdLBVisjustfromGrifo.ROSÉPORTandexcitinglate-harvestsweetwine,too.

RubyYoungest,cheapestPortstyle:simple,sweet,red;bestislabelledRES.

TryolddryAmontilladowitholdcrumblyParmesanforamarriagemadeinheaven.

Ruiz-MateosFamilybusinesswithinfluenceoneconomyofSherryinrecentyrs.Substantialacquisitionsofbodegasbyholding

companyRumasa;expropriatedbythegovernmentin1983.Nueva(“new”)RumasarelaunchedwithinvestmentsinclGARVEY.ItssubsequentcollapseledtosaleofGarveygroup(2011).FutureofSOLERASandbrandsremainsuncertain.

SánchezRomate★★→★★★FamilyfirminJEREZsince1781withawiderangeofSherries.Bestarematurewines:v.fine,nuttyAmontilladoNPU,PaloCortadoRegente,excellentVORSAmontillado,andOlorosoLaSacristíadeRomate,unctuousSacristíaPX.Alsowell-knownforbrandyCardenalMendoza.

Sandeman★→★★MorefamousforPortthanSherry.VOSwinesmostinteresting,inclRoyalEsmeraldaAmontilladoandRoyalCorregidorRichOldOloroso.

SandemanPort★★→★★★SOGRAPE’SinvestmentinQUINTAdoSeixowineryhasimprovedVINTAGEsince2007(63667075779497000307’[11]).Cellar-door’swindowonthewinery,inclroboticlagares(openstonefermentationvats)inaction,great

visitorattraction.Secondlabel:fruityVauVintage(97’990003).

SanlúcardeBarramedaMagellansailedfromhere.SodidColumbus.BodegaandbeachtownatmouthofriverGuadalquivír.SeasideairencouragesFLORgrowth,issaidtogivewinessaltycharacter.Analyticallyunprovenbutevident,espinolderwinesie.HIDALGO-LAGITANA’sManzanillaPasadaPastrana.WinesagedunderflorinSanlúcar’scellarsqualifyforDOManzanilla-SanlúcardeBarrameda.

SercialBoththewineandthegrape:driestofallMadeiras.Supremeapéritif;gdwithsmokedsalmoncanapésorsushi.SeeGrapevarieties.

Silva,Cda★★→★★★Portshipper.Sophisticatednewrange,inclDalvaGoldenWHITECOLHEITA(1952’19631971’)andcollaborationwithchefsMiguelCastroeSilva(anewdryWhite)andRuiPaula(1967Colheita).

SmithWoodhouse★★★SYMINGTONFAMILYESTATES-ownedsmallPortfirmfoundedin1784.GdunfilteredLBV;somev.finevintages(drierthanmost):6366707577’80838591949700’0307.QuintadaMadelenaissingle-QUINTAVINTAGEPORT.

SoleraSystemforageingSherryand,lesscommonlynow,Madeira.ConsistsoftoppingupprogressivelymorematureBUTTSwithslightlyyoungerwinesofsamesortfrompreviousstage,orcriadera.MaintainsvigourofFLOR;givesconsistencyacrossallstylesandrefreshesmaturewines.MinageforaFinoorManzanillais2yrsinsolera.

TawnyWood-agedPortstyle(hencetawnycolour),readytodrinkonrelease.RES,age-dated(10-,20-,30-,40-yr-old)winesratchetupincomplexity.LimitedreleaseCOLHEITAS,VeryOldTawnyPorts(seeTAYLOR,GRAHAM,NIEPOORT,VALLADO,WINE&SOUL)nowviewithVINTAGEPORTforlimelight(andcostagooddealmore).

Taylor,Fladgate&Yeatman(Taylor’s)★★→★★★★Fladgate’sjewelinthecrown.Imposing,long-livedVINTAGE(66707577’80838592’949700’03’07’09’[11]).RenownedalsoforagedTAWNY,single-QUINTAVintagePort(QuintasVargellas,TerraFeita),esprareVargellasVinhaVelha(9597000407’09’)from70-yr-old+vines.Limited-editionScionisabottlingoftworecentlydiscoveredpipesofpre-phylloxera1850sTawnyPort(WinstonChurchillapparentlyhada3rd).

Terry★→★★DominatesentrancetoELPUERTODESANTAMARÍA.Oncealeadingbrand.

ToroAlbaláMont-M★★→★★★PXonlyhere,andsomevenerableoldwinesinadditiontotheyoungwines.AmongthemlivelyAmontilladoViejísimoandsuperb,treaclyDonPXGranRes.

Tradición★★→★★★Small,seriousbodega,founded1998,focusingonlyonVOSandVORSwines(ie.noFino)froman

art-filledcellarinJEREZ’soldtown.AlsovintageAñadaSherries.

UriumNewestarrivalinJEREZ(2009).Asmallbodegashowingv.highquality.Alsoimpressiveartcollection.

Valdespino★★→★★★★FamousJEREZbodegaproducingInocenteFinofromtheesteemedMacharnudov’yd.TerrificdryAmontillados,TioDiegoandColiseo;vibrantSolera1842OlorosoVOS;remarkableTonelesMOSCATEL,Jerez’sbest.OwnedbyGrupoEstévezwhichalsoownsMARQUÉSDELREALTESORO,LAGUITA.

Valdivia★★→★★★FormerhomeofRUIZ-MATEOSfamilywithuncertainfuturegivensaleofgroup.V.gd15-yr-oldSacromonteAmontillado,gdOloroso.

Vallado,QuintadaOwnedbydescendantsof19th-centuryDOURO/Portograndedame,DonaAntóniaAdelaideFERREIRA.Best-knownforDourowinesbutAdelaideTributa,a1,300-

bottleVeryOld[pre-phylloxera]TAWNYPort,signalsthefamily’sintenttorevivetheQUINTA’sPorttradition,asdoesreleaseofextendedrangeofage-datedTawnyandmaidenVINTAGEPORTs(2009).

VerdelhoStyleandgrapeofmedium-dryMadeira;pungentbutwithoutausterityofSERCIAL.Gdapéritiforpairwithpaté.Increasinglypopularfortablewines.

Forthefirsttimein30yearsthere’sagrapeshortageinJerez.Expectpriceincreases.

Vesúvio,Quintado★★★★WithNOVAL,asingle-QUINTAPortonparwiththebestVINTAGEPORT(91929495’96’9798’9900’0103’0405’0607’08’0910[11]).TheonlySYMINGTONFAMILYESTATESPortstillfoot-troddenbypeople(notrobotically).Since2007DOUROwines,too.

VilaNovadeGaiaTownacrosstheriverDOUROfromOporto.

TraditionalhometothemajorPortshippers’lodges,thoughPortisalsoagedinthewarmerDouro.

VintagePortClassicvintagesarethebestwinesdeclaredinexceptionalyrsbyshippersbetween1Janand30Septinthesecondyraftervintage.Bottledwithoutfiltrationafter2yrsinwood,itmaturesv.slowlyinbottlethrowingadeposit–alwaysdecant.Modernvintagesbroachableearlierbutbestwilllastmorethan50yrs.Single-QUINTAVINTAGEPORTSalsodrinkingearlier;bestcanlast30+yrs.

Warre★★★→★★★★TheoldestofBritishPortshippers(1670),nowownedbySymingtonFamilyWstates.V.gd,rich,age-worthyVINTAGE(636670’7577’80’838591949700’0307’09’[11]).ElegantSingle-QUINTAand10-and20-yr-oldTAWNYOtimareflectQUINTAdaCavadinha’scoolelevation.Alsov.gdVintageCharacter(Warrior)andunfilteredLBV.

WhitePortPortfromwhitegrapes.Rangesfromdrytosweet

(lagrima);mostlyoff-dryandblendofyrs.Apéritifstraightordrinklongwithtonicandfreshmint.Growingniche:age-dated(10-,20-,30-,or40-yr-old),eg.ANDRESEN,QuintadeSantaEufemiaandrareCOLHEITASeg.CDASILVA’sDalvaGoldenWhite.

Williams&Humbert★→★★★★TraditionalSherrybodega.Onceafamousname,nowinvolvedinmakingprivatelabelwines.BestsellersincludeDrySackandWinter’sTaleAmontillados.V.gdoldwinesincludeDosCortadosPaloCortado.

Wine&SoulThoughintiallyfocusedonDOUROwines,theurgetomakePortisimpossibletoresist,espnowJorgeSerôdioBorgeshasinheritedQUINTAdaManoella’sageingstocks.PowerfulPintasVINTAGEnowjoinedby10-yr-oldTAWNYandstunning300-bottle5GVeryOldTawny,sourcedfromcasksinBorges’familyforfivegenerations.

Switzerland

TheSwissaredrinkinglessoftheirownwineandmoreimportedwines.“Closetheborders,”say(some)growers.Exportsarenotbig;90%isdrunkathomeandSwisswinesabroadareprohibitivelyexpensive.Evenincludingairfare,itmightbecheapertogotoSwitzerlandtotastethem.Andtherearegems.SucholdvarietiesasArvine,Heida,Humagne,Cornalin,uniquetoSwitzerland,offerexceptionalexperiences.PinotNoiraccountsforaroundathirdofthevineyard;there’salsoMerlot.TheclassicwhiteisChasselas:atablegrapeelsewhere,buthereexpressingsubtledifferencesofterroirinsilky,transparentdrywines.Insteadofbanningimports,Switzerlandcouldtryencouragingexports.IftheSwissdon’twantthem,therestofusmight–thoughwe’llhavetosaveupforthem.

Recentvintages2012Awinemakervintage.Difficultyear:hailandrain.Promising,

though.2011Verygoodvintage,fromanunusuallylong,warmautumn.2010Aclassicvintage.Veryelegant;lessvolumethan2009.2009Oneofthebestofrecentyears.2008Difficultyearwithlotsofrain.Qualityokaybutnottops.2007Redsarelessopulentthan2006.Whitesaresuperb.AigleVdrw★★→★★★Well-knowncommuneforelegant

CHASSELAS.Mostfamous:AigleLesMurailles.AOCTheequivalentofFrenchAppellationContrôlée,butevery

winecantondefinesitsownrules.Therearecantonal,regionalandlocalAOCrules.

Bachtobel,SchlossgutThur★★★→★★★★09’10’11’(12)Wonderfulfamilyestate.Traditionandinnovationhandinhand.YoungteamproducesstunningPINOTN,andthebestRIESinthecountry.

Badoux,HenriVdw★★Bigproducer;old-stylecommercialwines.HisCHASSELASAIGLElesMurailles(classiclizardlabel)isthemostpopularSwissbrand.

BernCapital;French-andGerman-speakingcanton.Bestvillages:LaNeuveville,Ligerz,Schafis,SchernelzandTwann.CHASSELAS,PINOTN,MüLLER-T,CHARD.

Bovard,LouisVdrw★★★★DéZALEYfamilybusinessfor10generations:LouisBovardisthegrandseigneurofCHASSELAS;hisgrandscruscanlast10yrs+.V.gdDézaleyLaMédinette,SAUVBLRibexandDézaleyrouge.Elegant,classicwineswithclearsignature.StartyourChasselasstudyhere.

BündnerHerrschaftGrisrpw★★★→★★★★09’1011’

(12)BestGerman-Swisswineregion.Topvillages:Fläsch,Jenins,Maienfeld,Malans,Zizers.Switzerland’sbestBLAUBURGUNDER,ripenedbywarmFöhnwind;cask-agedv.gd.AlsoCHARD,MüLLER-T,Completer.Best:HansruediAdank★★,CiceroWeinbau★★,WeingutDavaz★★,WeingutDonatsch★★,WeingutEichholz★★,GEORGFROMM★★★,GANTENBEIN★★★★,Peter&RosiHermann★★,ChristianHermann★★,FamilieChristianandUrsulaMarugg★★,WeingutAnnatinaPelizzatti★★,WegelinScadenagut★★,SchlossSalenegg★★,StägerWeine★★,WeinbauvonTscharner★★.

CantinaKoopvanderKrone★★★Cool-climate,silkyMERLOTfromglacialmoraine.Eleganttannins,supple,notoverconcentrated.Tobediscovered.

ChablaisVdrw★★→★★★WineregionattheupperendofLakeGENEVA,inclvillagesAIGLE,Bex,Ollon,Villeneuve,

YVORNE,allknownforCHASSELAS.Chanton,Josef-MarieandMarioVal★★★:HEIDA,Lafnetscha,

Himbertscha,EyholzerRoter,Plantscher,Resi,Gwäss.Josef-MarieChantonistheIndianaJonesofSwissindigenousgrapevarieties.Concentration,oakandresidualsugarhighatpresent.Bringbackelegance.

WineregionsSwitzerlandhassixwineregions:VALAIS,VAUD,GENEVA,TICINO,TroisLacs(NEUCHâTEL,Bienne,VullyandJury)andGermanSwitzerland,whichcomprisesZURICH,SCHAFFHAUSEN,GRISONSandAargau.AndcontrarytoSwitzerland’sreputationformakingwhitewines,60%ofwinesarered,mostlyPINOTN.

ChappazVal★★★Marie-ThérèseChappazofFULLYisthe

conservativequeenofsweetwine.SmallestatewithoutstandingPetiteARVINEandMARSANNEBlancheGRAINNOBLECONFIDENCIEL.Hardtofind.

Côte,laVdrpw★→★★★LargestVAUDAOCbetweenLAUSANNEandNyon.Traditionalwhiteswithfinesse;fruity,harmoniousreds.EspfromMONT-SUR-ROLLE,Vinzel,Luins,FéCHY,MORGES.TryChâteaudeLuins,BolleetCie,DOMAINELACOLOMBE.

Cruchon,HenriVdrw★★★Biodynamicproducer.DeliciousCHASSELAS,SAUVBL,GamaretandGAMAY.Focusonvarietalelegance,notoverextraction.V.consistent.

DézaleyVd(r)w★★★→★★★★CelebratedLAVAUXv’ydonsteepslopestoLakeGENEVA.PotentCHASSELASdevelopswithage.LikeCalamintheonlypuregrandcruregionofVAUD.Best:;LaBaronnieduDézaley(12producers),DomaineBlondel,LouisBovard,ChaudetVins,DomaineBlaiseDuboux,

Fonjallaz.TrythematGeorgesWenger’srestaurantinLeNoirmont:vintagesbackto1976.

DôleValr★★→★★★Traditionalredblend:PINOTNplussomeGAMAY.Waslight;recentlyheavier,usingexpressivegrapeslikeDiolinoir,Garamet,SYRAH.LightlypinkDôleBlancheispressedstraightafterharvest.TrySIMONMAYEETFILS,PROVINSVALAIS,GéraldBesse,A-C&DENISMERCIER.

DomainelaColombeVdw★★★★Familycompany;atopproduceroffresh,elegant,minerallyCHASSELAS;alsotryRésPINOTGR.

DubouxBlaiseVd★★★OutstandingvalueCHASSELAS,spec.DéZALEY11’(12).Despitemalothewinesshowfascinatingminerality.Gdforageing.

EpessesVd(r)w★→★★★11’(12)LAVAUXAOC:supple,full-bodiedwhites.LucMassyVins,Dom.BLAISEDUBOUX,FONTALLAZ.

FéchyVd★→★★★FamousappellationofLACôTE,espelegantwhites.DYA.TryDomaineduMartheray,DOMAINELACOLOMBE,DomaineRaymondMetzener,DomaineChateanat.

TheFletschhorninSaasFeeandtheChâteaudeVillainSierrehavethebestSwisswinelists,withlotsofoldvintages.

Federweisser/WeissherbstGerman-Swissfreshwhite/roséfromBLAUBURGUNDER.

FendantValw★→★★★VALAISappellationforCHASSELAS.Theidealwineforfondueorraclette.TryMAURICEZUFFEREY,PROVINSVALAIS,LesFilsdeCharlesFavre,ADRIAN&DIEGOMATHIERNOUVEAUSALQUENEN,DomainedesMuses,JEAN-RENéGERMANIER,CaveMabillard-Fuchs,SIMONEMAYE&FILS.ComparedtoChasselasfromVAUD,Fendantismorevibrantandfruitdriven(tropical)–butstilllight.

Flétri/Mi-flétriLate-harvestedgrapesforsweet/slightlysweet

wine.Fontannaz,AndréValw★★★CaveLaMadeleine.Lookespfor

expressive,elegantAMIGNEdeVétrozwinesfromslatesoils.FribourgSmallestFrench-Swisswinecanton(115ha,nrJura).Try

Crudel’Hôpital,CavedelaTour.Fromm,GeorgWeingutGris★★★0809’101112Topgrower

inMalans.Newsinglev’yd(s)PINOTN.fromthreeclos.HissubtleCHARDiscultish.Movedawayfromconcentration,lessmalo,morevibrantfruit.

FullyValrwVillagenrMartigny:excellentERMITAGEandGAMAY.Bestproducer:Marie-ThérèseCHAPPAZ;tryGrainNoblewines(★★→★★★1011’(12).

Gantenbein,Daniel&MarthaGris0809’10’11(12)★★★★MostfamousgrowersinSwitzerland,basedinFläsch.TopPINOTNfromDRCclones(seeFrance),RIESclonesfromLoosen(seeGermany).Stronginexport.SomeCHARD.Verylimited,

oak-driven.GenevaCapital,andFrench-Swisscanton;4th-largestwineregion.

Keyareas:Mandement,EntreArveetRhône,EntreArveetLac.MostlyCHASSELAS,GAMAY.AlsoGamaret,CHARD,PINOTN,SAUVBLandgdALIGOTé.Best:JEAN-MICHELNOVELLE★★★;interesting:DomainesdesCharmes,Dugerdil,LaCavedeGenève,LesHutins,DomainedesBalisiers,StéphaneGros★★.

Germanier,Jean-RenéVal★★★→★★★★TopVétrozestaterunbyGillesBesse.ElegantRhône-styleCayas(SYRAH)08’09’(10)(11’);SeductiveMitis(sweetAMIGNE)08’09’(10’)(11).AlsopureCORNALIN0809’10,PINOTNClosduFour.Single-terroir11’almosttoorichCHASSELASClosdelaMalettaz.PlantednewHEIDA.

GiroudVinsVal★★BigfamilyproducerinSion.Winessofarv.fruity,drinknow.NewcollaborationwithMichelRolland(see

France)tobereadyforexport.Glacier,Vindu(Gletscherwein)ValFabledoxidized,wooded

whitefromrareRèzegrapeofVald’Anniviers.Almostimpossibletofindonsale.Keeplooking.IfyouloveSherrythisisamust.

GrainNobleConfidenCielValQualitylabelfortopSwisssweetwines.TryDomaineduMontd’Or,Marie-ThérèseCHAPPAZ,PhilippeDarioli,GérardDorsaz,JEAN-RENéGERMANIER,PROVINSVALAIS.

GrandsCrusValaisVALAIScommunesSALGESCH,Vétroz,St-Léonard,FULLY,Conthey,SION,Chamosonproducinggrandcruwines.In2014SIERREwilljointhem.

Grisons(Graubünden)Mtncanton,mainlyGerman-Swiss(BüNDNERHERRSCHAFT,ChurerRheintal;espBLAUBURGUNDER),partsouthofAlps(Misox,espMERLOT).PINOTNking,CHARDv.gd,alsoMüLLER-T.Best:GANTENBEIN,FROMM,CICEROWEINBAU,

WeinbauvonTscharner,IRENEGRüNENFELDER,ObrechtWeingutzurSonne,WeingutBovel.

SpécialitésandothersTermforrare,indigenousgrapevarieties,incl(w)AMIGNE,ARVINE,Completer,Himbertscha,HUMAGNE,Lafnetscha,Rèze;(r)CORNALIN,HEIDA,HUMAGNERouge.Switzerlandalsohasafew(v.few)Gouaisvines:anancestorofPINOTNandothers.GamaretandGaranoiraremoderncrossesofGAMAY.Diolinoirisanotherqualitymodernhybrid.Rauschlingiswhite,foundinmedievalGermanyandmodernSwitzerland.

Grünenfelder,IreneGrisr★★★WeingutEichholz,Jenins.V.limitedproduction.WonderfulCrémant.

JungeSchweizAar,Fri,Gris,Vd,ZürDynamicgroupofyoung

growers,with22members,incl:SergeDiserens,ChâteaudePraz,WeingutHaug,TOMLITWAN,RalfOberer,AlainSchwarzenbach.ThelatterisascionofSCHWARZENBACHWEINBAU,doinghisownthing,v.well.

LausanneVdCapitalofVAUD.Nolongerwithv’ydsintownarea,butlong-timeownerofclassics:AbbayedeMont,ChâteauRochefort(LACôTE);ClosdesMoines,ClosdesAbbayes,DomainedeBurignon(LAVAUX).

LavauxVd(r)w★→★★★NowaUNESCOworldheritagesite:v’ydterracesstretch30kmalongthesouth-facingnorthshoreofLakeGENEVAfromChâteaudeChillontotheeasternoutskirtsofLAUSANNE.MaingrapeisCHASSELAS.Winesnamedforthevillages:Lutry,ST-SAPHORIN,Ollon,EPESSES,DéZALEY,Montreuxandmore.isanannualawardfortopwines.TryDomained’Aucret,DomaineJean-FrançoisChevalleyandDomaineMermetus.

LeyvrazPierre-LucVd★★Asmalldomaine,excellentPINOTNandCHASSELAS(StSaphorin),11(12).

Litwan,TomAar★★★NewcomerwhostudiedinBurgundy.V.gdPINOTNandCHARD.Moresmokythanconcentrated.

Mathier,AdrianandDiegoNouveauSalquenenValrw★★★TopfamilyestateinSALGESCH/VALAIS.Terrificlong-lastingPINOTN,widerangeofSpécialités.Friendly,ready-to-drinkwines,somewithastonishingintensity.

MaulerNeusp★★→★★★OldfamilybusinessfocusedonméthodetraditionnellesparklingfromNEUCHâTEL,esprichandcreamyCuvéeLouis-EdouardMauler.

Maye,SimonetFilsValrw★★★09’1011’(12)InterestingFENDANT,PaïenPINOTNandSYRAH.

Mercier,Anne-Catherine&DenisVal★★★09’1011’(12)GrowersinSIERRE,withoutstandingCORNALINandSYRAH.

Mont-sur-RolleVd(r)w★★DYAImportantappellationwithin

LACôTE.CHASSELASisking.TryClosdesCordelières,DomainesdeAutecour,duCoteau,ChâteaudeChâtagneréaz,DomaineEsCordelières,ChâteaudeMont.

MorgesVdrpw★→★★DYALargeAOCwith39communes:CHASSELAS,fruityreds.TryChâteaudeVufflens.

NeuchâtelCityandcanton;591hafromLakeNeuchâteltoBIELERSEE.CHASSELAS:fragrant,lively(surlie,sparkling).GdOEILDEPERDRIX,PINOTGR,CHARD.Try:Châteaud’Auvernier,MAULER&CIE,Souaillon;ChantalRitter,JacquesTatasciore.

NonFiltréNeuSpécialitéavailablefromJanuaryfromNEUCHâTEL:unfilteredCHASSELAS.FirstSwisswineofthenewvintage.TryChristianRossel.

NovelleJean-MichelGen★★★1011’(12)GENEVA-basedDomaineleGrandClos.V.gdelegantSAUVBL,PETITMANSENG,GAMAY,MERLOT,SYRAH.Hardtofindbutworthwhile.

OeildePerdrixNeuPINOTNrosé.DYA,espNEUCHâTEL’s;name

canbeusedanywhere.TrythejuicyandfancyChâteaud’Auvernier,Crudel’Hôpital.Thenamereferstothecolourofapartridge’seye.

Paccot,RaymondVd★★★11’(12)FéCHY.DOMAINELACOLOMBE.ExcellentbiodynamicCHASSELAS,espLeBrez.Wines:nerve,deepminerality;improveeveryvintage.

ProvinsValaisVal★→★★★Biggest,mostdynamicco-opinSwitzerland,making10%oftotal.Outstandingforoak-agedMaîtredeChaisandremarkablemodern-styleCrusdesDomaines:interestingLesTitansrange(thebarrelsageinatunnelat1500m).WinemakerMadeleineGayisbigonindigenousgrapes.

Rahm,WeinkellereiSchaffrw★★Big,innovativecommercialproducerinHallau.TryNew-World-styleSelectionPierre.Winesroundedwithrichfruitflavours.

RenéFavreetFilsVal★★★ChamosonestateforPetiteARVINE

withdeliciousexoticfruitandFleurdeSelflavours,wonderfulacidity.MikeFavrealsoproducesNew-World-stylePINOTNwithlovelyconcentration.

RouvinezVinsValrw★★★ImportantSierreproducer.TryChâteauLichten,CORNALINfromMontibeux,LaTrémaille.AlsoownsCavesOrsat.

StJodernKellereiVal★★→★★★Visperterminenco-op(founded1978)producessomeofthebestHEIDAwines.V’ydsareabove1,100metres.HeidaVeritasisfromungraftedvines:unique,superbreflectionofalpineterroir.

St-SaphorinVd(r)w★★→★★★11’(12)FamousLAVAUXAOCforfine,lightwhites.TryChâteaudeGlérolles,DomaineBovy.

SalgeschValImportantGerman-speakingvillage.TryADRIAN&DIEGOMATHIERNOUVEAUSALQUENEN,CaveduRhodan,VinsdesChevaliers,CaveaudeSalquenen,AlbertMathieretFils,CaveBiber.

SalvagninVdr★→★★1011GAMAYand/orPINOTNappellation.Rustic,light-bodiedredSpécialitéfromVAUD.TryUvavins.Notpopularwiththeyounggeneration.

SchaffhausenGerman-Swisscanton/townontheRhinewiththefamousFalls.BLAUBURGUNDER,alsoMüLLER-TandSpécialités.Best:BaumannWeingut,BadOsterfingen,WeinStamm★★.

SchenkSAVd★→★★★Europe-widewinegiant,basedinRolle,founded1893.OwnsfirmsinBurgundyandBordeaux,Germany,Italy,Spain.Topaddressforclassic-styleSwisswines,oftenunderrated.FounderoftheClos,Domaines&Châteaux(associationofSwissnoblewines),strongintheVaudoisPremiersGrandsCrusmovement.Affordable,excellentexamplesofCHASSELAS.

SchwarzenbachWeinbauZürw★★★Familyproduceronthelake.Dry,crispwhites,Räuschling,KERNER,MüLLER-T.Youngestsondiedinatragictractoraccidentworkingsteep

slopes.SierreValrw★★→★★★Sunnyresortknownforrichand

lusciousFENDANT,PINOTN,ERMITAGE,MALVOISIE.V.gdDôLE.VisitChâteaudeVilla–racletterestaurant,winemuseumandvinothequewithlargestVALAISwinecollection.Topnames:ImeschVins,ANNE-CATHERINEETDENISMERCIER,DomainedesMuses,ROUVINEZVINSandMAURICEZUFFEREY.

SionValrw★★→★★★Capital/winecentreofVALAIS.EspFENDANTdeSion.Top:CharlesBonvinFils,LesFilsdeCharlesFavre,GiroudVins,PROVINSVALAIS,RobertGilliard.

WatchoutforChasselas.Aftersuccessesofindigenousgrapes,Chasselasisnext.

TaramarcazRobertVal★★FamilyestateDomainedesMusesisasmallgem.Traditionalwine-growing;elegantFENDANTandPINOTN.Tolookoutfor.

Ticino★★→★★★09’1011(12)Italian-speakingsouthernSwitzerland(withMisox),growingmainlyMERLOT(gdfrommountainousSopraceneriregion)andSpécialités.TryCABSAUV(oakedBordeauxstyle),SAUVBL,SéM,CHARD,MERLOT(pw).Best:Agriloro,GuidoBrivio,Chiodi,Gialdi,DanielHuber,TenutaMontalbano,WernerStucky,TamboriniCarloEredi,TenutaCastellodiMorcote,TenutaSanGiorgio,LUIGIZANINI,CHRISTIANZüNDEL.New:seriousMerlotcompetitionfromtheVALAIS.

Valais(Wallis)TheRhôneValleyfromGerman-speakingupperValaistoFrenchlowerValais.Largest,mostvariedandexcitingwinecanton(33%oftotal)andthebiggestofthesixwineregions.Widerange:47grapevarieties,plusmanySpécialités;HereCHASSELASiscalledFENDANT.Importantproducers:CaveGéraldBesse,CaveRenéFavreetFils,PROVINSVALAIS,ROUVINEZVINS,SIMONMAYE&FILS,JEAN-RENéGERMANIER,Robert

Gilliard,STJODERNKELLEREI,NOUVEAUSALQUENEN.Newexport-orientedtopwinestobereleasedthisyr.

Vaud(Waadt)FrenchSwitzerland’s2nd-largestwinecantonandwineregion,inclCHABLAIS,LACôTE,LAVAUX,Bonvillars,Côtesdel’Orbe,Vully.CHASSELASisthemaingrape.Mostwinesherearenamedaftertheirterroirs:grandscrusareallChasselas.Importantproducers:CavedelaCôte,Hammel,MaisonBolle,Obrist,SCHENK.Prestigiousproducers’association:Clos,Domaines&Châteaux.Chasselasoverproductionisnowkeyproblemforsomegrowers–espiftheirquality/distributionisbelowstandard.

Vessaz,ChristianDynamicwine-grower.WonderfulCHASSELAS.NewtopcuvéePremier(Gamaret/MALBEC/MERLOT).Likemanynew-generationgrowershiswinesshowalotofconcentration.

FashionableMerlotPreviously,MERLOTwasmainlyculitivatedinTicino,theItalian-speakingpartofthecountry.Climatechangeandthepopularityofthegrapehasledtoplantingsalloverthecountry.ThebestofthesenewwinescomefromtheValais–whichwillsurelytriggeraqualitydiscussioninTicino.

VinattieriTicinesiTic★★→★★★★09’1011’(12)OneofTICINO’sleadingMERLOTproducers.LuigiZanini(juniorandsenior)createanamazingdiversity,fromlightGrottoWinetoPomerol-stylered.Topwines:CastelloLuigi,redVinattieri.

VisperterminenVal(r)w★→★★UpperVALAISv’yds,espforHEIDA.Oneofthehighestv’ydsinEurope(at1,000+metres;calledRiben).SeeitfromthetraintoZermattorSaasFee.TryCHANTON,STJODERNKELLEREi.ThevinificationofHeidaevolves

withitspopularity–nowthereareversionsfromtraditionaldrytooakedtoevensparklingversions,whichhopefullywillvanishastheyarrived.

YvorneVd(r)w★★11’(12)TopCHABLAISAOConLakeGenevaforstrong,fragrantCHASSELAS.TryArtisansVigneronsd’Yvorne,CHâTEAUMAISONBLANCHE,Domainedel’Ovaille,ClosdelaGeorge,TerroirduCrosexGrillé.

Zufferey,MauriceValr★★★10’11(12)MrCORNALIN(atSIERRE).Largerange,buthisCORNALINisthemostprécise.

ZündelChristianTic★★★09’10’11(12)GermanSwissinsouthernTICINO.MERLOTinaratherausterestyle.WonderfulcoolclimateCHARD.

ZürichCapitaloflargestcanton.BLAUBURGUNDERmostly;alsoMüLLER-T,Räuschling,KERNER.TryLadolt,SCHWARZENBACH,ZweifelWeine,Schipf.

Austria

TherearesurprisingdevelopmentsinAustria.Whilethecountry’swinesarerenownedfortheirvarietalzing,sometopgrowersaremovingfromvarietallydefinedwinestowardsexpressionsofregionandterroir.GemischterSatzishavingarenaissance–theoldViennesetraditionofplantingmixedvineyards–akindofinsuranceagainstadverseweather.InBurgenland,MoricandJaginiarerevivingoldvineyards,andeverywheretherediscoveryofoldfermentationandageingtechniquescreatewineswithlessvarietalandmorelocalcharacter.Backtothefuture….

Recentvintages2012 FrostinMaymadefordifficultstart,butawarm,drylate

summerallowedearlyharvest.Quantitiesdownfrom2011.Qualitysatisfactoryorbetter.

2011Oneofthefinestvintagesinlivingmemory.2010Hand-pickingandmeticulousworkwereimperative,yields

downbyasmuchas55%.Asmallnumberofsurprisinglyfinewines.

2009Uneven,withsomeoutstandingwhites(LowerAustria,Styria)andreds(Neusiedlersee,MiddleBurgenland).

2008Coolestyearsince2004.Someoutstandingresults.Nottobediscounted.

2007GoodinStyriaand,inBurgenland,forBlaufränkisch,Zweigelt,PinotN.ExcellentyieldsinVienna,betterforGrünerVeltlinerthanforRies.

2006Agreatyear.Achs,PaulN’seer(w)★★★071011FineGOLSproducer

obssessedwithhisterroir.Highqualityacrosstheboard,espBLAUFRäNKISCHUngerbergandelegantPINOTN.

AlphartTherm★(r)wTraditional,reliableestate,gdPINOTNOIRandespROTGIPFLER.

AlzingerWachw★★★★05060708091011Topestate:highlyexpressiveRIESandGRüNERVELTLINER,espfromSteinertalv’yd.

AngererKampwEngaginglyeccentricproducerofGRüNERVELTLINER,VIOGNIER.

Angerhof-TschidaN’seew★★★★030506080911Outstandingnoblysweetwines:MUSKATOttonel,Sämling,CHARD.

AumannThermrwModern,ambitiousproducer,interestingST-LAURENT.

AusbruchPrädikatwinewithhighsugarlevelsbetweenBAandTBA.TraditionallyproducedinRUST.

Ausg’steckt(“Hungout”)AgreenbushhungabovethedoorofaHEURIGEwhenopen.

Bayerrw★★NégociantproducingreliableredswithaBLAUFRäNKISCHbase.

Beck,JudithN’seerw★★RisingandaccomplishedBIODYNAMICwinemaker.Well-craftedreds,espgdPINOTNandSt-Laurent.

BiodynamismNowfirmlyrootedinAustria,incproducerssuchasPACHS,JBECK,Fritsch,Geyerhof,GRAFHARDEGG,HIRSCH,FLOIMER,Meinklang,Sepp&MariaMuster,NIKOLAIHOF,BOTT,JNITTNAUS,PITTNAUER,FWENINGER.

Brandl,GünterKampw★★★06091011ConsistentlyfineKamptalestate,knownespforRIESandGRüNERVELTLINER

Novemberlese.Braunstein,BirgitN’seerw★GdN’SEE-HüGELLANDestate:cuvée

Oxhoft.Bründlmayer,WilliKamprwswsp★★★★030506070809

1011OutstandingLangenlois-KAMPTALestate.World-classRIESandGRüNERVELTLINER,espRiesHeiligensteinAlteReben,GVKäferberg.AlsoAustria’sbestméthodetraditionelle.

BurgenlandProvince,wineregionintheeastborderingHungary.Warmclimate,esparoundshallowLAKENEUSIEDL.IdealconditionsforredsandespbotrytiswinesnrN’SEE.Fourareas:MITTELBURGENLAND,N’see,N’SEE-HüGELLAND,SüDBURGENLAND.

BuschenschankAwinetavern,oftenaHEURIGEcountrycousin.CarnuntumCarnrwDynamicregionsoutheastofVIENNAnow

showinggdreds,oftenonST-LAURENTbase.Best:Glatzer,Grassl,GMarkowitsch,MUHR-VANDERNIEPOORT,Netzl,PITTNAUER,Wiederstein.

ChristrwReliableVIENNAproducer,aleadinglightintheGEMISCHTERSATZmovement.

DistrictusAustriaeControllatus(DAC)Austria’sappellationsystem(2003).SimilartoFrance’sAOP;rapidlygainingacceptance.CurrentDACs:EISENBERG,KAMPTAL,KREMSTAL,LEITHABERG,MITTELBURGENLAND,NEUSIEDLERSEE,TRAISENTAL,WEINVIERTEL.

Donabaum,JohannWachw★★★Smallgrower,withwell-balancedRIESandGRüNERVELTLINER,espRiesOffenberg.

EhmoserWagrw★★★Smallindividualistproducer,gdGRüNERVELTLINERAurum,andterrificjuicy,crunchyZweigelt.

EisenbergSStySmallDAC(2009)aroundtheEisenbergv’yd,focusedexclusivelyonBLAUFRäNKISCH.

ErsteLageFirstGrowthinnewDACv’ydclassification.UsedinLowA,alongDanube.

EsterhazyBurgenrwswsp★★PrincelyhouseatEisenstadt

(BURGENLAND)backinthebusinesswithanewwineryandpromisingwines,espBLAUFRäNKISCH.

FederspielWachMediumlevelofVINEAWACHAUcategories,roughlycorrespondingtoKabinett.Elegant,drywines,lessoverpoweringthanhigherSMARAGDcategory.

Feiler-ArtingerN’seerwsw★★★★950203040506070809OutstandingRUSTestatewithtopAUSBRUCHdessertwinesoftenv.gdvalueformoneyandredblends.Beautifulbaroquehouse,too.

ForstreiterKremsw★ConsistentKREMSTALproducer,particularlygdRIES.

FreierWeingärtnerWachrw★★→★★★Wachauco-opfornearlyhalfthev’ydsoftheregion.CellarsatDürnstein.Higheststandards,espforGRüNERVELTLINERandRIES.

GemischterSatzViennaBlendof(mostlywhite)grapevarietiesplantedinsamev’ydandvinifiedtogether.Traditionalmethod

thatspreadsrisk;backinfashioninVIENNAandtheWEINVIERTEL;yieldinggdresults:Christ,WIENINGER.

GesellmannMBurgrw★★Reliable.BLAUFRäNKISCHandredcuvées:OpusEximium.

GeyerhofKremsrw★★OneofAustria’spioneersoforganicviticulture,IlseMayer’sKREMSTALestateproducesfineRIESandGRüNERVELTLINER.

GolsN’seerwdrswDynamicwinecommuneonnorthshoreofLAKENEUSIEDL.Topproducersincl:PACHS,JBECK,GSELLMANN,GHEINRICH,A&HNittnaus,PITTNAUER,CPREISINGER,Renner,STIEGELMAR.

GrafHardeggWeinrw★LargeWEINVIERTELestate.VIOGNIER,SYRAH,PINOTNandRIES.

GritschMauritiushofWachw★Consistentlyunderratedproducer,espfineGelberMUSKATELLER.

GrossSStyw★★★0607080911PerfectionistsouthSTYRIAN

producer,focusonregionalcharacter.EspCHARD,SAUVBLandhisownfavourite,PINOTBL.

Gsellmann,HansN’seerwsw★FormerlyGsellmann&Gsellmann,inGOLS,espwell-maderedsanddrywhites.

GumpoldskirchenThermrwdrswFamousHEURIGEvillagesouthofVIENNA,thecentreofTHERMENREGION.Signaturewhitevarieties:ZIERFANDLERandROTGIPFLER.Gdproducers:Biegler,Spaetrot,ZIERER.

GutOggauN’seerw★★AnambitiousyoungBIODYNAMICproducer,pronouncedregionalstyle:GRüNERVELTLINER,BLAUFRäNKISCH.

HaiderN’seerwdrsw★★★13grapevarietieson13hahere:sweetwines,fromSpätlesetoTBAviaEiswein,plusdrywhiteandred.

Heinrich,GernotN’seerwdrsw★★★★0607080910AccomplishedGOLSestate,memberofthePANNOBILEgroup.

Outstandingsingle-v’ydredwines:Salzberg.Heinrich,JMBurgrwdrsw★★★0305060911Leading

MITTELBURGENLANDproducer.V.gdBLAUFRäNKISCHGoldbergRes.SucculentcuvéeCupido.

GrowingGruVeeAustria’ssecretweaponontheinternationalmarket,theGRüNERVELTLINERgrape,knownas“GruVee”,whichhastriumphedfromNewYorktoTokyo,isspreading.GruVeeisnowtobefoundnotonlyinGermany,butasfarafieldasAustralia,NZ,California,Oregon,Argentina,andIndia.ThefirstofaseriesofinternationaltastingsofGruVeewaswonbyaGermanversion,whichprobablydidn’tgodownthatwellinVienna.

HeurigeWineofmostrecentharvest.Heurigenarealsowine

tavernsinwhichgrowers-cum-patronsserveownwinewithlocalfood–aVienneseinstitution.

HiedlerKampwsw★★★06091011Consistentlyfinegrower,concentrated,expressivewines,somefromsteepterracedv’yds.V.gdRIESMaximum.

HirschKampw★★★05060911Fineorganicgrower.EspfineHeiligenstein,LammandGaisbergv’yds.AlsoAustria’sscrewcappioneer.

Hirtzberger,FranzWachw★★★★050607081011TopproduceratSPITZANDERDONAU.Highlyexpressive,minerallyRiesandGRüNERVELTLINER,espfromtheHonivoglandSingerriedelv’yds.

HöglWach★★★wswIndividualistgrower;fineRIESandGRüNERVELTLINERSchön.

HoritschonMBurgMITTELBURGENLANDregionforreds:IBY,FWENINGER.

IglerMBurgr★★Redspecialist,espBLAUFRäNKISCH:AbEricio,Vulcano.Hillyv’ydsatfootofÖdenburgHighlands;lotsofsun,carefulviticulture,winemaking.

IllmitzN’seewdrsw(r)SEEWINKELregion;famousBA,TBA.Best:Angerhof,HAIDER,KRACHER,HelmutLang,Opitz.

JaginiN’seer★★★RolandVelichandHannesSchuster.BLAUFRäNKISCH,ancientv’yds.

Jamek,JosefWachw★Traditionalestatewithrestaurant.NottypicalWACHAUstyle:oftensomeresidualsugar.

JohanneshofReinischThermrwsw★★Tourist-friendlyfamilywinerymakingsomegdreds,alsoZIERFANDLERandROTGIPFLER.Topv’ydisSpiegel.

Jurtschitsch/SonnhofKamp(r)wdr(sw)★★★LargeKAMPTALestate:reliableoftenfinewhites(RIES,GRüNERVELTLINER,CHARD).

KamptalLowArwWineregionalongtheriverKampnorthof

WACHAU,makingricherandbroaderstyles.Topv’ydsincl:Heiligenstein,Käferberg,Lamm.Best:ANGERER,GBRANDL,WBRüNDLMAYER,Ehn,Eichinger,HIEDLER,HIRSCH,JURTSCHITSCH,FLOIMER,GRABL,SCHLOSSGOBELSBURG,STEININGER.KamptalisDACforGRüNERVELTLINERandRIES.

KerschbaumMBurgr★★★03050607080911ABLAUFRäNKISCHspecialist,individualandoftenfascinatingwines.

KlassifizierteLageSecondGrowthorClassifiedGrowthinthenewv’ydclassificationsystemusedintheregionsalongtheDanube.SeealsoERSTELAGE.

KlosterneuburgWagrwMainwinetownofDonauland.Richintradition,withawinecollegefoundedin1860.Best:StiftKlosterneuburg,Zimmermann.

KMWAbbreviationforKlosterneuburgerMostwaage(“mustlevel”),theunitusedinAustriatomeasurethesugarcontentin

grapejuice.Knoll,EmmerichWachw★★★★050608091011Top

traditionalestate,Loiben.Delicate,fragrantRies,complexGrünerVeltliner,partfromLoibenberg,Schütt.

Kollwentz-RömerhofBurgenrwdr(sw)★★★★05060708091112OutstandingproducernrEisenstadt:SAUVBL,CHARD,Eiswein.Renownedfinereds:Steinzeiler.

KracherN’see(r)wdr(sw)★★★★9501020304050607080910Top-classILLMITZproducerspecializinginbotrytizedPrädikatS(dessert),alsogdreds.

Kremstal(r)wWineregionespforGRüNERVELTLINERandRIES.Top:Buchegger,Malat,SMOSER,NIGL,SALOMON-UNDHOF,Stagård,WEINGUTSTADTKREMS.

KrutzlerSBurgr★★★★0607080911OutstandingsouthBURGENLANDproducerofdistinguishedBLAUFRäNKISCH,espPerwolff.

Lackner-TinnacherSEStyrwsw★★→★★★SüD-OSTSTEIERMARKestateknownforMUSKATELLER,excellentSAUVBL.

LeberlN’seerwsw★TraditionalN’SEE-HüGELLANDestate,gdredcuvéePeccatum,TBA.

LeithabergN’seeV’ydhillonthenorthernshoreofLAKENEUSIEDL;alsoalivelygroupofproducerssuccessfullyredefiningregionalterroir-basedstyle.NowaDAC.

Loimer,FredKampw★★★→★★★★0506070911ThoughtfulBIODYNAMICproducer,50%GRüNERVELTLINER;alsoRIES,CHARD,PINOTGR,v.gdPINOTN.

MantlerhofKremsw★★Well-considered,traditionalapproach.GdROTERVELTLINER.

MayeramPfarrplatzViennaw★★EstablishedproducerandHEURIGE,recentlymuchimproved,espGEMISCHTERSATZNussberg.

MittelburgenlandWineregiononHungarianborderconcentratingonBLAUFRäNKISCH(alsoDAC)andincreasinglyfine.Producers:BAYER,GAGER,GESELLMANN,JHEINRICH,Iby,IGLER,KERSCHBAUM,Wellanschitz,FWENINGER.

MoricMBurgr★★★★050609101112RolandVELICHhunteddownparcelsofoldBLAUFRäNKISCHvinesinLutzmannsburgandNeckenmarkt;winesofstellareleganceanddepth.

Moser,LenzKremsrwAustria’slargestproducer,basedinKrems.Muhr-vanderNiepoortCarnrw★★★Yes,NiepoortasinPort.

Outstandinglystylishreds,espBLAUFRäNKISCHSpitzerberg.Müller,DomaineWStrwswEccentricbutoftenfineproducer

withinternationaloutlook,espSAUVBLandCHARD.MusterSStyrwEclecticandexperimentingbiodynamicproducer:

MORILLONGraf,CuvéeSgaminegg.NeumayerTraisw★★★Topestate;powerful,focused,dry

GRüNERVELTLINERandRIES.

NeumeisterSEStyw★★★0506080911Modernist,meticulousproducer,espfineSAUVBLandCHARD.

NeusiedlerseerwdrswWineregionnorthandeastofNEUSIEDLERSEE.Bestincl:PACHS,JBECK,GHEINRICH,KRACHER,JNITTNAUS,J&RPöCKL,STIEGELMAR,JUMATHUM,VELICH.NeisiedlerseeorNeisiedlerseeResarealsoDACSforZWEIGELT;Rescanbe40%otherindigenousgrapes,andmustbeagedinoak.

Neusiedlersee-HügellandrwdrswWineregionwestofLAKENEUSIEDLbasedaroundOggau,RUSTandMörbischonthelakeshores,andEisenstadtintheLeithafoothills.Best:BBRAUNSTEIN,FEILER-ARTINGER,KlosteramSpitz,KOLLWENTZ-RöMERHOF,PRIELER,Schandl,HSCHRöCK,Schuller,Sommer,ETRIEBAUMER,WENZEL.

Neusiedlersee(LakeNeusiedl)BurgenV.shallowBURGENLANDlakeonHungarianborder,thelargestreed-growingareain

Europe,andanaturereserve.Winehasbeengrownherefor2000+yrs.Warmthandautumnmistsencouragebotrytis.

Niederösterreich(LowA)Northeasternregion;58%ofAustria’sv’yds:CARNUNTUM,Donauland,KAMPTAL,KREMSTAL,THERMENREGION,TRAISENTAL,WACHAU,WEINVIERTEL.

NiglKremsw★★★★050607080911ThebestinKREMSTAL;sophisticateddrywhiteswithremarkablemineralcharacterfromSenftenbergv’yd.

TheZweigeltgrapewas90yearsoldin2012.

NikolaihofWachw★★★★05060708091011PrecisewinesfromBIODYNAMICpioneer.OutstandingRIESfromSteinerHundv’yd,oftengreatageingpotential.

Nittnaus,JohnN’seerwsw★★★06091112Organicwinemaker.Espelegantandage-worthyreds:Comondor.

Ott,BernhardLowAw★★★GRüNERVELTLINERspecialistfromWAGRAM,espamphorae-fermentedQvevre.

PannobileN’seeAssociationofyoungish,ambitiousN’SEEgrowerscentredonGOLS,aimingforgreatwinewithregionalcharacter.Currentmembers:PACHS,JBECK,HANSGSELLMANN,GHEINRICH,Leitner,JNITTNAUS,PITTNAUER,CPREISINGER,Renner.

PfafflWeinrw★★★0708091112EstatenrVIENNA,inStetten.KnownfordryGRüNERVELTLINERandRIES.

Pichler,FranzWachw★★★★050607080911Greatproducer.IntenseandiconicRies,GRüNERVELTLINER(espKellerberg).

Pichler,RudiWachw★★★★0506091112ExpressiveRIESandGRüNERVELTLINER.

Pichler-KrutzlerWachwr★★★Marriageoftwofamousnames,quicklyknownforbalancedwines,espfromWunderburgv’yds.Alsoreds,growninSüDBURGENLAND.

Pittnauer,GerhardN’seerw★★★07091011N’SEEproducer,oneofAustria’sfinestforST-LAURENTwines.

Pöckl,Josef&RenéN’seer(sw)★★★0306091112Refinedreds:AdmiralandRêvedeJeunesse.

Polz,Erich&WalterSStyw★★★06070809V.gdlarge(Weinstrasse)growers,espHochgrassnitzberg:SAUVBL,CHARD,GRAUBURGUNDER,WEISSBURGUNDER.

Prager,FranzWachw★★★★005060708091112Greatdrywhites.RIES,GRüNERVELTLINERofimpeccableeleganceandmineralstructure:WachstumBodenstein.

Preisinger,ClausN’seer★Ambitiousyoungwinemaker:PINOTN,cuvéeParadigma.

Prielerrw★★★ConsistentlyfineN’SEEproducer.EspgdBLAUFRäNKISCHGoldberg.

Proidl,ErwinKremsw★★HighlyindividualKREMSTALgrowermakinginteresting,age-worthyRIESandGRüNERVELTLINER.

Rabl,GünterKamprwsw★Consistentgrowerlongovershadowedbymorefamouscolleagues.V.gdGRüNERVELTLINER.

RiedAustriantermforv’yd.RustN’seerwdrswHistorictownonshoreofLAKENEUSIEDL,

beautiful17th-centuryhousestestifytocenturiesoffinewine,espofRusterAUSBRUCH.Top:FEILER-ARTINGER,Giefing,Schandl,HSCHRöCK,ETRIEBAUMER,WENZEL.

Sabathi,HannesSStyw★★★Youthfulandhighlyprofessionalestate.Finesingle-v’ydwhites,espSAUVBLMerveilleux.

Salomon-UndhofKremsw★★★Dynamicandfineproducer:RIES,WEISSBURGUNDER,TRAMINER.BertholdSalomonalsomakeswineinAustralia.

Sattler,WilliSStyw★★★★050708091011Finegrower.EspforSAUVBL,MORILLON,oftenv.steepv’yds.

SchieferSBurgr★★★GaragisteUweSchieferhasquickly

reachedthetopwithhisdeep,powerfulBLAUFRÄNKISCH,espfromSzaparyandReihburgv’yds.

SchilcherWStRoséfromindigenousBlauerWildbachergrapes(sharp,dry,highacidity).Alocaltaste,oratleastanacquiredone.SpecialityofwestSTYRIA.Try:Klug,Lukas,Reiterer,Strohmeier.

SchlossGobelsburgKamprw★★★★0506070809101112RenownedestaterunbyMichaelMoosbrugger.Excellentsingle-v’ydRIESandGRüNERVELTLINERandfinePINOTN;alsofineTraditionwines.

SchlossHalbturnN’seerwsw★★★06091112AnambitiousandfineestaterepresentinganinternationalinterpretationofAustrianvarietiesandterroir.EspcuvéeImperial,alsoPINOTN.

SchlumbergerViennaspAustria’slargestsparklingwinemaker.AlsoLoire(France).

SchmelzWachw★★★Fine,oftenunderestimatedproducer,esp

outstandingRIESDürnsteinerFreiheit.SchneiderThermrwConsistentproducer,espsucculentST-

LAURENTandgdPINOTN.Schröck,HeidiN’seerwsw★★★Winesofgreatpurityand

focusfromathoughtfulRUSTgrower.V.gdAUSBRUCH.Alsov.gddryFURMINT.GreinerisWelschrieslingfermentedinacaciawoodandagedfor3yrs.SeeHungary.

SchusterN’seerw★★★Fineestate,particularlysappyandcomplexST-LAURENT.

SeewinkelN’see(“Lakecorner”)NamegiventopartofN’SEE,inclApetlon,ILLMITZandPodersdorf.Idealconditionsforbotrytis.

NewAustrianwineglassplaysnotesaccordingtowinelevel:fulloctave,A-flattoG.

SmaragdWachHighestcategoryofVINEAWACHAU,similartodry

Spätlese,oftencomplexandpowerful.Spätrot-RotgipflerThermTypicalblendofTHERMENREGION.

Aromaticandweightywines,oftenwithorange-peelaromas.SeeGrapeschapter.

SpitzanderDonauWachwCoolarea,espSingerriedelv’yd.Topgrowersincl:JDONABAUM,FHIRTZBERGER,HöGL,Lagler.

StadlmannThermrwsw★★SpecializesinopulentZIERFANDLER-ROTGIPFLERwines.

SteinfederWachVINEAWACHAUcategoryforlight,fragrant,drywines.

SteiningerKamprwsp★★Growerwithoutstandingvarietalsparkling;still,too.

Stiegelmar(Juris-Stiegelmar)N’seerwdrsw★★Well-regardedGOLSgrower.CHARD,SAUVBL.Reds:ST-LAURENT.

StiftGöttweig★★BaroqueBenedictinemonasterynrKrems.

Newbroom;finesingle-v’ydwines.StrohweinSweetwinemadefromgrapesair-driedonstraw

matting.Styria(Steiermark)SouthernmostregionofAustria.Somegddry

whites,espSAUVBLandCHARD,calledMORILLONlocally.AlsofragrantMUSKATELLER.InclSüDSTEIERMARK,SüD-OSTSTEIERMARK,WESTSTEIERMARK(South,Southeast,WestStyria).

SüdburgenlandSBurgrwSmalleasternwineregion.V.gdBLAUFRäNKISCH.Best:KRUTZLER,SCHIEFER,Wachter-Wiesler.

Süd-OststeiermarkSESty(r)wSTYRIANregionwithexcellentv’yds.Best:NEUMEISTER,WINKLER-HERMADEN.

SüdsteiermarkSStywBestSTYRIAregion;popularwhites(MORILLON,MUSKATELLER,WELSCHRIESLINGandSAUVBL).Best:GROSS,Jaunegg,LACKNER-TINNACHER,E&WPOLZ,PotzingerSabathi,WSATTLER,Skoff,MTEMENT,Wohlmuth.

TegernseerhofWachw★★Risinggrowerofv.interestingRIES

andGRüNERVELTLINER.Tement,ManfredSStyw★★★★060708091112Renowned

estate;espfineSAUVBLandMORILLONfromZiereggsite,espZiereggIZ,acontemporarycultwine.

ThermenregionrwdrswRegionofhotspringse.ofVienna.Indigenousgrapes(eg.ZIERFANDLER,ROTGIPFLER),historicallyoneofthemostimportantregionsforreds(espST-LAURENT)fromBaden,GUMPOLDSKIRCHEN,Tattendorf,Traiskirchenareas.Producers:Alphart,Biegler,Fischer,JOHANNESHOFREINISCH,Schafler,Spätrot-Gebelshuber,STADLMANN,ZIERER.

Traisental700hajustsouthofKremsonDanube.DrywhitescanbesimilartoWACHAUinstyle,notusuallyinquality.Topproducers:Huber,NEUMAYER.

Triebaumer,ErnstN’seer(w)drsw★★★★05060708091112GreatRUSTproducer;BLAUFRäNKISCH(incllegendaryMariental),CABSAUV/MERLOTblend.V.gdAUSBRUCH.

UhudlerSBurgLocalsouthBURGENLANDspeciality.ThewineismadedirectlyfromAmericanrootstocks,withafoxy,strawberrytaste.Uh.

Umathum,JosefN’seerwdrsw★★★Fine,thoughtfulproducer.V.gdreds,inclPINOTN,ST-LAURENT;gdwhites.

VelichN’seewsw★★★★Outstandingproducer.Excellentburgundian-style,barrel-agedTiglatCHARD(06080911).SomeoftopsweetwinesinSEEWINKEL.

Veyder-MalbergWachw★★★A2008start-up,cultivatingsomeofWACHAU’smostlabour-intensivev’ydsandproducingwinesofgreatpurityandfinesse.

Vienna(r)wWineregioninsuburbs.Mostlysimplewines,servedtotouristsinHEURIGEn.Qualityonrise:CHRIST,MAYERAMPFARRPLATZ,FWIENINGER,Zahel.

VineaWachauWachWACHAUappellationstartedbywinemakersin1983withthreecategoriesofdrywine:STEINFEDER,

FEDERSPIELandthepowerfulSMARAGD.WachauwWorld-renownedDanuberegion,hometosomeof

Austria’sbestwines.Top:Alzinger,JDONABAUM,FREIEWEINGäRTNERWachau,FHIRTZBERGER,HöGL,JJAMEK,EKNOLL,Lagler,NIKOLAIHOF,FPICHLER,RPICHLER,FPRAGER,Schmelz,WESS.

Wachau,DomäneWachw(r)★★★0708091112Outstandinggrowers’co-opinDürnstein,topwineseverbetter.V.gdGRüNERVELTLINERandRIESKellerberg.

Wagram(r)wRegionwestofVIENNA,inclKLOSTERNEUBURG.Mainlywhites,espGRüNERVELTLINER.Best:EHMOSER,Fritsch,StiftKlosterneuburg,Leth,BOTT,Wimmer-Czerny,RZimmermann.

WeingutStadtKremsKremsrw★★Co-opcapablysteeredbyFritzMiesbauer,espRIESandGRüNERVELTLINER.MiesbaueralsovinifiesforSTIFTGöTTWEIG.

WeinviertelWein(r)w(“WineQuarter”)LargestAustrianwineregion,betweenDanubeandCzechborder.Largelysimplewinesbutincreasingqualityandregionalcharacter.Refreshingwhites,espPoysdorf,Retz.Best:Bauer,JDiem,GRAFHARDEGG,Gruber,PFAFFL,Schwarzböck,Weinrieder,Zull.

Weninger,FranzMBurgr(w)★★★★0506080911Top(Horitschon)estate,withfinereds,espBlaufränkisch,fromclay-andiron-richsoils:DürrauandMERLOT.AlsonowinHungary:Weninger-Gere.

WenzelN’seerwsw★★★V.gdAUSBRUCH.JuniorMichaelmakesambitiousandincreasinglyfinereds.FatherRobertpioneeredtheFURMINTrevivalinRUST.

WessWachw★Gdwinemakerofbought-ingrapes,somefromfamousv’yds.

WeststeiermarkWStpSmallwineregionspecializinginSCHILCHER.Best:Klug,Lukas,DOMAINEMüLLER,Reiterer,

Strohmeier.WiederMBurgrwExponentofBLAUFRäNKISCHrenaissance,well-

structuredwines.WiedersteinCarnrwYoungCARNUNTUMwinemakerBirgit

Wiedersteinmakesunderstatedbutappealingreds.WienViennaSeeVIENNA.Wieninger,FritzViennarw★★★0607080911Leading

growerwithHEURIGE:CHARD,BLAUERBURGUNDER,espgdGEMISCHTERSATZ.

Winkler-HermadenSEStyrwsw★★★Outstanding,individualproducer;gdTRAMINER,MORILLON.Oneofregion’sfewv.gdreds,theZWEIGELT-basedOlivin.

WinzerKremsKremsLargeco-opwith1,300growers.ZiererThermrwProducerofespfineROTGIPFLER.Zillinger★Individualist:winesofzestandcharacter,esp

interestingTRAMINER.

England&Wales

Thisyear,thischapterfocusesonsparklingwine.Yes,there’sanironyinthewaythatwidespreadrecognitionofthequalityofsparklingwinefromEnglandandWaleshascoincidedwithapairofdistinctlytrickyvintages.Thingsweredifficultin2011andworsein2012,whenmanyvineyardspickedonlytokenamountsandafewmadenothingatall.Therewill,however,stillbewinetobuy:fizzproducershavetokeepseveralyearsofstock,whichhelpstoironoutpooryears.OverhalfofEnglishwineisnowsparkling,andnewnamesappearallthetime,oftenbackedbyenormousinvestment:somewillsucceed,somewon’t.NewplantingsareofChardonnayandthePinots;olderproducersmayhaveSeyvalBlanc.Thebestwinescanrivalwell-respectedChampagneinquality,thoughtendtohavehigheracidity.

BluebellEstatesES’x★Newishsparklingproducerusingboth

SEYVALBLandtraditionalChampagnevarieties.HindleapSeyval08andClassicCuvéeandRosé,both09,bothexcellent.NrBluebellRailway.

BolneyWineEstateWS’x★Establishedin1972,nowin2nd-generationhandsandstartingtomakesomeimpressivesparkling.Chard-basedBlancdeBlancs08andRosé09wellworthtrying.Gdvisitorfacilities.

BreakyBottomES’x★★OneofUK’slongest-lastingv’ydsapproaches40thyrwithsameowner/winemaker.Chard-basedCuvéePrincessColonna08and95%SEYVAL-basedCuvéeAlexandreSchwatschko08well-madewithgreatcharacter.

CamelValleyCorn★★★LindofamilycontinuetomakechampionsparklingwiththeChampagnevarieties,plusreliableSEYVALBL.Multi-award-winningPINOTNRosé10fulloffruit

andflavour.ExcellentCHARDandWhitePinot,both09.ChapelDownKent★★★Sparklingheregetsbetterandbetter.

New73-acreAylesfordv’ydnowcropping,sosuppliesmoreconsistent.Entry-levelBrut,RoséBrutNVbothexcellent,well-priced.Champagne-variety-basedThreeGraces08alsov.gd.

Coates&SeelyHants★★Sparklingnewcomerwithhighstandards.NVRosé,BlancdeBlancsshowingv.well.Novisitorfacilities:allinvestmentinwinemaking.

FurleighEstate★DorsetChampagne-grapenewcomermakinggdwines,espBlancdeNoirs,ClassicCuvéeand(bestofall)BlancdeBlancs,all09.

GusbourneKent★Largenewsparklingproducerwithbigplans.BlancdeBlancs08andRosé09excellent.

HennersES’xNewcomermakingimpactwithfirstvintage.09Res,09Vintagebothexcellentwines.

HushHeathEstateKent★★BalfourBrutRosé09hasgreat

balanceandlength:possiblybestUKroséfizz.Alsov.gdapplejuice.

JenkynPlaceHantsPlantedonformerhopgardensandstartingtomakeaname.Bestaresubtle,toastyBrut09andfruityBrutRosé09.

NyetimberWS’x★★★UK’slargestandbest-knownproducer.Best:ClassicCuvée08,Rosé08.NewDemi-SecNVworthtrying;single-vy’dTillington09tobereleasedandisexcellent.Nograpespickedin2012.

PlumptonCollegeES’x★★UK’sonlywinecollegenowstartingtomakeinterestingwines.SparklingTheDeanandTheDeanBlush(bothNV)v.gd.

RidgeviewES’x★★★★Greatquality,consistencyandgd-valuekeepthiswineryatthetopofUKproducers.GrosvenorMagnumBlancdeBlancs01andGrosvenorBlancdeBlancs09exceptionalquality.NewVictoriaRosé09bestrosétodate.

WistonWS’xNew16-acreproduceronchalkdownland;experiencedex-Nyetimberwinemakerincharge.09SouthDownCellarsBin.3bestwine.

Central&SoutheastEurope

HUNGARYThepictureinHungaryatpresentisofahugenumberofsmallproducers,eachwithanindividualapproach.Addtothatalargenumberofnativegrapes,influencesthathistoricallyhavecomefrombothEastandWestandcurrenteconomicproblems,andthepictureisexcitingandconfusing.Hungary’svolcanicsoilsgivewinesofacertainfieriness,andproducersarejustbeginningtofavourbalanceoverpower.ButHungary’smostfamouswineexportsremainTokaji(thrillingdrywinesfromTokajin2011)andCountAgostonHaraszthy(foundingfatherofmodernCalifornianwine);Hungaryhasjustcelebratedhis200thanniversary.Alana-TokajTokdrsw★★AlsoownsNAGwinesinmátra.Gd

MUSCAT,FURMINT,ASZÚ.

Árvaywdrsw★★Familywinerysince2009.DaughterAngelikaawardedtopyoungwinemakerin2012forlate-harvestMUSCAT.

AszúTokBotrytis-affectedandshrivelledgrapes(noteveryvintage:gdaszúyearsin05060708,but0911betterfordrywines),andtheresultingsweetwinefromTOKAJ.Thewineisgradedinsweetness,from3PUTTONYOSupto6.

AszúEssenciaTokHistorically2nd-sweetestTOKAJIquality(7PUTTONYOS+),butnotusedsince2010vintage.DonotconfusewithESSENCIA.

BadacsonyBalwdrsw★★→★★★VolcanicslopesnorthofLakeBALATON.Flavoursomewhites,espRIESandSZÜRKEBARÁT.LookforLaposa(fine,mineralwhites),(age-worthyKÉKNYELU˝),andexcitingbreakthroughwineryVillaSandahl(espTheStampRIES).

BalatonRegion,andCentralEurope’slargestfreshwaterlake.BADACSONY,Balaton-füred-Csopak(BélaésBandi,Feind,

Figula,Jasdi),Balatonmelléke(DR.BUSSAY),SOMLÓtonorth.BALATONBOGLÁRtosouth.

BalatonboglárBalwrdr★★→★★★Winedistrict,alsomajorwineryofTÖRLEY,southofLakeBALATON.Gd:GARAMVÁRI,KONYÁRI,Ikon,LégliOtto,LégliGéza,Budjosó.

BartaTokwdrsw★★★Highestv’ydinTOKAJ.Increasinglyimpressivewinessince2009withtopwinemakerAttilaHommona.TrydryFurmintVálogatás,SZAMARODNIandv.gdsweetFurmint-Muskotály.

BeresTokwdrsw★★→★★★GdASZÚ(060708)winesanddryLőcseFURMINT.

BikavérNHunr★→★★★06’070809Literally“Bull’sBlood”.Beingrevivedasflagshipblendedred.ProtectedoriginstatusinSZEKSZÁRDandEGER.Minthreeofrecommendedvarieties,inclKÉKFRANKOSandhistoricallyKADARKA.Supériorisminfourvarietiesandrestrictedyield.BestforEgriBikavér:

Bolyki,DEMETER,GrofButtler,TIBORGÁL,STANDREA,Thummerer.InSZEKSZÁRDlookforTakler,Meszáros,Eszterbauer,Sebestyén.

Bock,JózsefSPannr★→★★★06’07’0809LeadingfamilywinemakerinVILLÁNY.Notedforweighty,richreds.Best:CABFRSelection,CapellaCuvée,SYRAH.

BodrogkeresztúrTokVillageinTOKAJregion.Gdproducers:DERESZLA,Füleky,PATRICIUS,TokajiNobilis(brilliantBarakonyiHÁRSLEVELU˝09’),Puklus(tryKabar).

Bussay,Dr.Balw★★0809(11)DoctorandwinemakerinBalatonmelléke.IntenseTRAMINI,PINOTGR,OLASZRIZLING.Alsov.gdKerkaborumwineswithHEIMANN.

CsányiSPannr★→★★MajorwineryinVILLÁNY.ChateauTelekiistoprange.

TokajandSonomaarenowtwintowns,inhonourofCount

AgostonHaraszthy.

Degenfeld,GrófTokwdrsw★★→★★★050607(08)LargeTOKAJestatewithluxuryhotel.Sweetbetterthandry.Try6Puttonyos,FortissimoandAndanteFURMINT.

DemeterZoltánTokwsw★★★→★★★★07’08’09(11)Superb,elegantdrywines,espVeresandLapisFURMINTS,stunningSzerelmiHÁRSLEVELU˝.NewsweetwineEszterandv.gdASZÚ(notmadein11).NorelationtoDemeter(alsogd)inEGER.

DereszlaTokwdrsw★★★05060708091011D’Aulanfamily-owned(Champagne).V.gdASZÚ,flor-ageddrySZAMORODNI.AlsogddryFURMINT,superbdryKabar.

DistrictusHungaricusControllatus(DHC)Termforwineswithspecificprotecteddesignationoforigin(PDO).Symbolisalocalcrocusand“DHC”onlabel.

DisznókőTokwdrsw★★★→★★★★03’050607’(08)ImportantTOKAJestate,ownedbyFrenchcompanyAXA.Fine,expressiveASZÚandgd-valuelate-harvest.

DobogóTok★★★→★★★★05’06’0708091011SuperbsmallTOKAJestate.NotableASZÚ,late-harvestMylitta;wonderfulMylittaÁlma(moderntakeonASZÚESZENCIA),thrillingdryFURMINT,espBetsek,andpioneeringPINOTNIzabellaUtca09.

DűlőNamedv’yd;singlesite.DunaDunaRegioncomprisingthreedistrictsoftheGreatPlain,

mergedtoimprovereputation.Districts:Hajós-Baja(trySümegi),Csongrád(Somodi),Kunság(Frittmannisqualitystepup:gdCserszegiFűszeres,EZERJÓandKÉKFRANKOS).

EgerNHunrwdr★→★★★Topredregionofnorth.EgriBIKAVÉRismostfamous.CABFR,PINOTN,SYRAHincreasinglyimportant;DHCforDebrőiHÁRSLEVELU˝.Try:Bolyki,Gróf

Buttler,Demeter,TIBORGÁL,KalóImre,KOVÁCSNIMRÓD,STANDREA,Thummerer.

EgriCsillagNHun“StarofEger.”NewdrywhiteblendmodelledonBIKAVÉR.Blendofatleastfourgrapes;min50%mustbelocalCarpathianvarieties.

Essencia/EszenciaTok★★★★939699000306(09)Syrupy,luscious,aromaticjuicethattricklesfromASZÚgrapes.Alcohol2–3%+;sugarupto800g/l.Reputedtohavemiraculousmedicinalproperties.

Etyek-BudaNPannDynamicregionnotedforexpressive,crispwhites,finesparklers,espCHARD,SAUVBL,PINOTGR.V.promisingforPINOTN.Leadingproducers:EtyekiKúria,Nyakas,György-Villa,HaraszthyandnewcomerKertész.

GaramváriBalrwdrsp★★Family-ownedv’yd.AlsoChateauVincent,Hungary’stopbottle-fermentedfizz.GoodDYAIRSAIOLIVÉRandSinaiHillCABSAUV.

GereAttilaSPannr★★★→★★★★0003’0406’07’0809FamilywinemakerinVILLÁNYmakingsomeofcountry’sbestreds,esprichSolusMERLOT,intenseKoparCuvéeandtopAttilaselection.isgd-valueandageswell.

HeimannSPannr★★→★★★070809’SZEKSZÁRDfamilywineryimpresses:superbBarbár09,v.gdFranciscusblend,BaranyaKÉKFRANKOS.PartnerinstylishU&IKékfrankos(withHeumannfromVILLÁNY)andwithDR.BUSSAYinKerkaborum.

HétszőlőTokwdrsw★★Noblefirst-growthTOKAJestateboughtin2009byMichelRebier,ownerofCosd’Estournel(Bordeaux).

HilltopWineryNPannrwdr★→★★091011InNeszmély.Meticulousandgd-valueDYAvarietalwines.AlsoART,Muzeálisandv.gdPremiumrange.

HomonnaTokwdr★★★070809’Maverickwinemakerwithfine,elegantFURMINT,espHatariv’yd.

KirályudvarTokwdrsw★★★→★★★★0506’07’(08)TOKAJwineryinoldroyalcellarsatTarcal,ownedbyAnthonyHwang(seealsoVouvray).Winesincludedryandlate-harvestFURMINT,CuvéeIlona(early-bottledASZÚ),stunningCuvéePatriciaandsuperb6PUTTONYOSLapisAszú.

KonyáriBalrwdr★★→★★★0607080910(11)Fatherandsonmakinghigh-qualityestatewinesatBALATONBOGLÁR,espdrinkableDYArosé,consistentLoliense(rw)andexcellentSzárhegy(w),Sessio(r)andtopPavablend.

KovácsNimródWineryNHunrwdr★★08091011EgerproducerimpressingwithBattonageCHARD,alsogdSYRAH,PINOTNandNJKredblend.

KreinbacherBalwdr★★070809Organicapproach(2008);localgrapes,espblends.Long-livedwhites:ÖregTőkék,SomlóiCuvéeimpressasdoesSYRAH09.

MádTokImportanthistorictowninheartofTOKAJregion.Leading

growers:ALANA-TOKAJ,BARTA,OROSZGÁBOR,DEMETERZOLTÁN,ElsőMádiBorház(new,drywine),Lenkey(v.gdASZÚ03),Moonvalley(akaHoldvölgy,winemakerisStephanieBerecz,alsoofv.gdKikelet),ROYALTOKAJI,SZEPSY,StTamáswinery(newfrom2009withSzepsyJr),TokajClassic.

MalatinszkySPannrwdr★★★06’070809’Certifiedorganicfrom2012.ExcellentunfilteredKúriaCABFR,CABSAUV,KövesföldredandfineCHARD.

MátraNHun(r)w★→★★DistrictinMátrafoothills.Gdforfreshwhites.BetterproducersinclBenedek,KarnerGábor,NAG(seeALANA-TOKAJ),SzökeMátyás,Borpalota(Frízlabel)andco-opSzölöskert(NagyrédeandSpiceTraillabels).

Mézes-MályTokTopTOKAJIcruinTarcal.TryROYALTOKAJIandBalassa.

MórNPannw★→★★Sleepyregion,beingrevivedalmostsingle-handedlybyÁkosKamocsayJr’sMauruswinery.

notable;promisingRIES,CHARD,TRAMINI.OremusTokwdrsw★★→★★★★03’0506’07080910(11)

SiteofhistoricTOKAJv’ydoffoundingRakóczifamily,ownedbySpain’sVegaSicilia:first-rateASZÚandv.gddryFURMINT10.

OroszGáborTokwdrsw★★→★★★03’0506070809(11)Improvingproducer:trydrysingle-v’ydFURMINTandHÁRSLEVELU˝,plusexcellentASZÚ.

Pajzos-MegyerTokwdrsw★★→★★★000203’0506’070809JointlymanagedTOKAJproperties.Megyerincoolernorthofregion,espdryFURMINT,dryandsweetMUSCAT.Pajzosmakesricherage-worthysweetwinesonly.

PannonhalmaNPannrwdr★★0809101112Regioninnorth.Also800-yr-oldPannonhalmaAbbeywineryandv’yds.Stylish,aromaticwhites,espRIES,TRAMINI,SAUVBLandtopHeminawhiteblend.RecentlyfinePINOTN.

PatriciusTokwdrsw★★★0506’0708091011QualityTOKAJestatesince2000.V.gddryFURMINT,sweetKatinkaand6-puttonyosASZÚ.

PécsSPann(r)w★→★★DistrictaroundthecityofPécs.Knownforwhites,incllocalCIRFANDL.EbnerPINOTNimpresses.

PenditsWineryTokwdrsw★★→★★★030506070809(11)OnlyDemeter-certifiedbiodynamicestateinHungary.LusciousASZÚESZENCIA,attractiveSzelloCuvéeandprettydryMUSCAT.

Boriswine;vörösisred;fehériswhite;édesissweet,szárazisdry,minőségiisquality.

PuttonyosMeasureofsweetnessinTOKAJIASZÚ.Nowadays3puttonyos=60gofsugarperlitre,4=90g,5=120g,6=150g.Traditionallyaputtonywasa25kgmeasure(abucketorhod)ofshrivelledgrapes.Thenumberadded/barrel(136litres)ofdry

basewineormustdeterminedthefinalsweetnessofthewine.RoyalTokajiWineCoTokdrsw0003050607’Pioneerjoint-

ventureatMÁDthatledrenaissanceofTOKAJin1990(Iamaco-founder).Mainlyfirst-growthv’yds.6-puttssingle-v’ydbottlings:espMÉZES-MÁLY,Betsek,SzentTamás,NyulászóplusvalueBlueLabel2008.Alsocomplex,dryFURMINT2011andluscious,gd-valueLateHarvest0910.Newwineryopened2010.

StAndreaNHunrwdr★★★06’070809(11)TopnameinEGER,leadingwayinmodern,high-qualityBIKAVÉR(Merengő,Hangács,Áldás).Excellentwhiteblends:Napbor,Örökké,organicBoldogságos,plusv.gdKADARKAandPINOTN.

SauskaSPann,Tokrw★★→★★★★0708091011ImmaculatewineryinVILLÁNY.BeautifullybalancedKADARKA,KÉKFRANKOS,CABFRandimpressiveredblends,espCuvée7andCuvée5.AlsoSauska-TokajinoldcasinoinTOKAJwithfocus

onv.gddrywhites,espCuvée111and113andFURMINTBirsalmás.

SomlóBalw★★→★★★0708091011Dramaticvolcanichillfamousformineral-richwhites:(“sheep’stail”),OLASZRIZLING,FURMINT,HÁRSLEVELU˝.Regionofsmallproducersmakinglong-lived,barrel-fermentedwines,espFekete,Györgykovács,Hollóvár,SomlóiApátsági,Spiegelberg.TORNAI,KREINBACHERalsov.gd.

SopronNPannr★★→★★★RecentlydynamicdistrictonAustrianborderthatoverlooksLakeFertő.KÉKFRANKOSmostimportant,plusCABSAUV,SYRAH,PINOTN.TopproducerisbiodynamicWeninger;alsotrythev.characterfulwinesofRáspi(espElectusZWEIGELT).Othernamestowatch:Pfneiszl,Luka,Taschner.

SzamorodniTokLiterally“asitwasborn”;describesTOKAJInotsortedinthev’yd.Dryorsweet(édes),dependingonproportion

ofASZÚgrapespresent.Thebestdryversionsareflor-aged;tryTinon,DeresziaorKarádi-Berger.

SzekszárdSPannr★★→★★★Ripe,richredsfromKÉKFRANKOS,CABSAUV,CABFRandMERLOT.AlsoKADARKAbeingrevivedandBIKAVÉR.Lookfor:Dúzsi,DomaineGrófZichy,Eszterbauer,HEIMANN,Mészáros,Sebestyén,SzentGaál,TAKLER.

Szepsy,IstvánTokwdrsw★★★★03’05060708091011’Brilliant,standard-settingTOKAJIproducerinMÁD.SuperbDU˝LŐdryFURMINT,espUrágya,SzentTamásandBetsek11’,releasedaheadof10.AlsoKirályHÁRSLEVELU˝,andsweetSZAMORODNI030608.SharesfamilynamewithcreatorofASZÚmethod.

SzeremleyBalwdrsw★★060708091112PioneerinBADACSONY.Intense,mineralRIES,Szürkebarát,(akaPINOTGR),KÉKNYELU˝,andappealingsweetZeus.

HungaryandPinotNoirPINOTNiscomingtotheforeinHungary,too.GdsparklersinclTÖRLEY’sFrançoisPresidentBrutRoséandChâteauVincent’sEvolutionRosé,whileontheredfront,inEgerlookoutforSTANDREA’sHangácsandTIBORGÁL’sSíkhegy.Fromthesouth,VYLYAN,EbnerandHEIMANNareallnoteworthysourcesoffinePinotN,whilefurthernorthPANNONHALMAAbbey’sResisagdbet,asisEtyekiKuria’sgentle,elegantstyle,andtoreallybreakthemould,DOBOGÓisnowpioneeringIzabellaUtcaPinotNfromthecoolhillsidesofTOKAJ.

TaklerSPannr★★06070809SignificantfamilyproducerinSZEKSZÁRD,makingsuper-ripe,supplereds.Best:ResselectionsofCABFR,KÉKFRANKOS,SYRAHandBIKÁVER.Super-cuvéeRegnumwell-regardedlocallyandinUSA.

TiborGálNHunrwdr★→★★WineryinEGERfoundedbythelateTiborGál,famedaswinemakeratORNELLAIA,Tuscany.Son(alsoTibor)isbuildingnewcellars;smallerrangeofwinesisimproving.

Tinon,SamuelTokwdrsw★★→★★★000104BordelaisinTOKAJsince1991.Distinctiveandv.gdTokajiASZÚwithv.longmacerationandbarrel-ageing.Alsosuperbflor-agedSzamorodni.

Tokaj/Tokajiwdrsw★★→★★★★Tokajisthetown;Tokajithewine.Alsoproducingincreasinglyexcitingdrytablewine.

TokajTradingHouseTokwdrsw★→★★AkaKereskedöházorCrownEstates.State-ownedTOKAJcompany,workingwith2,300smallgrowersplusownvines,inclthefineSzarvasv’yd.Modernizingbutstillvariablequality.

TolnaSPannLargestestateinthisregionisAntinori-ownedTűzkőatBátaapáti.GdTRAMINI,CHARDandblendedredTalentum.

Törleyrwdrsprwdrsp★→★★Innovativelargecompany.Well-made,internationalvarietals(PINOTGR,CHARD,PINOTN),alsolocalvarietiesIRSAIOLIVÉR,ZenitandZefir.Majorfizzproducer(espGalaandHungariaGrandeCuvéelabels)andv.gdclassicmethod,espFrançoisRoséBrutandPresidentBrut.ChapelHilliswell-made,gd-valuebrand,andGyörgy-Villafortopselections(tryJUHFARK,SYRAH).

TornaiBalwdr★→★★★07080911(12)Gd,complex,intensedrywhitesinSomló,espTopSelectionrange(Juhfark,HÁRSLEVELU˝,OLASZRIZLINGandFURMINT).

VillánySPannMostsoutherlywineregionandbestredzone.Notedforserious,ripeBordeauxvarieties(espCABFR)andblends,alsotryjuicyexamplesoflocalandPORTUGIESER.RecentappearanceofgdSYRAHandPINOTNincoolerspots.High-qualityproducers:Bock,CSÁNYI,ATTILAGERE,TamásGere,Heumann,Malatinszky,SAUSKA,Tiffán,Vylyan,WENINGER-

GERE,Wunderlich.VylyanSPannr★★→★★★06’070809StylishPINOTN;CAB

FR,SYRAH,excellent-valueBelzebub.(CabFr,CABSAUV,MERLOT,ZWEIGELT)isflagshipred.

WeningerNHunr★★→★★★0607080910(11)BenchmarkwineryinSOPRONrunbyAustrianFranzWeningerJr.Biodynamic(2006).Single-v’ydoneofHungary’sbest.SYRAH,PINOTN,Frettnerblend(r)alsoimpressive.

Weninger-GereSPannr★★★06’07’08Joint-venturebetweenAustrianFranzWeningerSrandGEREATTILA.CABFRSelectionexcellent,supplePINOTN,gd-valueCuvéePhoenixandfreshRosé.

BULGARIAThereismovementhere,too.Bulgariaismovingawayfromafocusonlocalgrapes,andtakinganinterestinMalbec,Sangiovese,PetitVerdot,AlicanteBouschet,ViognierandColombard.Noveltyisthewatchword;thoughtheoldfavouritesofCabernetSauvignon,Merlot,MavrudandMelnikarenotwatchingtheirbacksjustyet.AssenovgradThracer★→★★Specialistsforlocalgrapes

MAVRUDandRUBIN.BessaValleyThracer★★★StephanvonNeipperg(ofCanonla

Gaffelière,Bordeaux)andK-HHauptmann’swinerynrPazardjik.Enira08andEniraRes07.TheonlyqualityBulgarianwinereadilyavailableintheUK.

BlueridgeThracerw★→★★LargeDOMAINEBOYARwinery.GdeverydayCHARD;CABSAUV.

BorovitsaDanuberw★★Oneofthefewoldv’yds,distinctiveterroirclosetoDanube.Dux06,complexandoaky,recommended.LesAmisCHARD08andPINOTN09worthtrying.

CastraRubraThracer★★NewwineryofTELISHinsouth.MichelRollandofBordeauxadvisesyoungteam.TrytheViaDiagonalis09,CastraRubra09andaward-winningButterfly’sRock09.

ChateaudeValDanuber★★Smallproducerofdistinctivequalitywines:GrandClaretRes09.CuvéeTrophy10.

DamianitzaThracer(w)★★SpecialistsforMELNIKgrape.UniqatosinglevarietiesRUBINandMelnik08.TrythesmoothandelegantKometaNoMan’sLandMERLOTandCABSAUV08.

DomaineBoyarBigexporter,ownv’ydsandwineries.Award-winningSolitaireGrandsCépages,single-v’yd,09.Quantumrange11.Andanewrange:Next20Years,esptheCHARD/SAUVBL.

DragomirThracer(w)★★PromisingwinerynrPlovdiv.CABSAUV/MERLOTbrandssuchasKarizma09andRezerva09.

KatarzynaThracerw★★★QualitywinesfromthissouthernwineryborderingGreeceandTurkey.EncoreSYRAH11isexcellent;alsorecommended:QuestionMark11(stylishCABSAUV/MERLOT),andContemplationsMerlotandMalbec11.

KortenThracer★★BoutiquecellarofDOMAINEBOYAR;qualityandtraditional-stylewines.LookoutforCluster,ArsLongaandRoyalResranges.

LeventDanube(r)w★★SmallwineryinRusse,reallygdwhites,espSAUVBL11andLeventFamilySelection10.AlsoMERLOTGrandSelection08andCABSAUVGrandSelection11.

LogodajThracerw★→★★Blagoevgradwinery:NobileRUBIN08,HypnoseResMERLOTsingle-v’yd08.NobileCHARD11isworthlookingoutforandthestylishArtisCABSSAUVandFR10.

MalkataZvezhdaThracerw★Promisingsmallwineryaiming

forhighquality.Enigmarange,espMERLOT,andblendedExperiencebothrecommended.

MidalidareEstateThracerw★→★★Boutiquewinerymakinganimpressionwithredandwhite.Trymedal-winningGrandVintageMALBEC,Mogilovosingle-v’yd10.AlsoSAUVBL/SÉM10,GrandVintageSYRAH10,SynergySauvBl,PINOTGR11.

WineriestowatchforMediValley’snameisalinkwithitsThracianpredecessors,butit’sproducingsomemodernandfreshMERLOTSintheStrumaValley.Strymon,inthesameregion,ismakingsmoothMerlotsandblendingwithSYRAH.RossidifromSliven,ThracianLowlands,haslimitedbuthigh-qualityproduction;DomaineMarashhasseveralunusualblendsinclQuattro11,ofMALBEC,CABSAUV,CABERNETFRandSyrah.

MinkoviBrothersThracerw★★SmoothredsandfreshwhitesintheCyclerange:varietalsandblendsoftwograpes(bicycles)orthree(tricycles).AlsolookforCuvée10,OakTree09.SeasonofMemories09isadessertwine,unusualforBulgariaandworthatry.

Miroglio,EdoardoThracerw★★Italianinvestorwithv’ydsatElenovo.MERLOT09,elegantCABSAUVRes09,Bulgaria’sbestfizz,MiroglioBrutMetodoClassico07.

PomorieThrace(BlackSeaGold)(r)w★GoldenRhythmandVillaPonteranges10.

PreslavThrace(r)w★→★★GdTRAMINER,SAUVBL.RubaiyatCHARD09recommended.

SlaviantsiThrace(r)w★→★★Gdwhitesandsomepromisingreds.TryLeva:CHARD,MUSCATandDIMIAT11,alsoSYRAHRes10.

TargovishteDanube(r)w★→★★Wineryintheeast,gdfor

CHARD,SAUVBL,MUSCATandTRAMINERandsomepromisingnewreds.

TelishDanuber(w)★★Innovativewineryinnorth.Gdvalueandquality.NimbusSYRAHPremium09,CABSAUVandMERLOT10.

TodoroffThracer(w)★→★★High-profilewinery.BoutiqueMAVRUD09.LookoutforGallery,TeresandEmotionranges.

ValleyVintnersDanubeSeeBOROVITSA.VarnaWineCellarDanube(r)w★→★★PromisingSAUVBL12,

RIES,VarnenskiMISKET12.YamantieviThracerw★→★★VillaArmiraandMarbleLand

rangesworthlookingoutfor;ResMERLOTandCABSAUVsmoothandstylish.

Yambolr(w)★OldestablishedwineryinThracianPlain,CABSAUV,MERLOTspecialists.

SLOVENIASloveniahaswidelydifferentregionsandalonghistoryofqualitywinenowbrimmingwithmodernideas.Sadly,theeconomicpressuresofbeingatinymemberoftheEurozonearehittingqualitywine–withbothcheapimportsontheriseandalargegreymarketofsocalled“openwines”(bulkwine,oftenhomemadeandpoorquality).

BatičPrimrwsw★→★★06070809Organic,low-intervention,variableestateinVIPAVA.TryRosé,PINELA,Zaria.

BjanaPrimsp★★Gdtraditional-methodsparklersfromBRDA,espBrutRoséandCuvéePrestige.

BlažičPrimw★★★060708091011BRDAproducermakingsuperbREBULA,aromaticSAUVIGNONASSEandcomplexwhite

blendBlažBelointopyrs.Brda(Goriška)PrimExcitingtop-qualitydistrictinPRIMORJEand

hometomanyleadingwineries,inclBJANA,BLAŽIČ,EDISIMČIČ,Erzetič,JAKONČIČ,Kabaj(famousforamberAmforawine),Klinec,KRISTANČIČdusan,MOVIA,Prinčič,marjanSIMČIČ,ŠČUREK,VINSKAKLETGORIŠKABRDA,ZANUT.

BurjaPrimrw★★→★★★0911NewventureinVIPAVAfromPrimožLavrenčič(previouslywithbrotheratSUTOR),focusingonlocalvarietiesZelenandMALVAZIJA.AlsodeliciousPINOTN09’10.

ČotarPrimrw★★0304050708NaturalwinepioneerinKRAS.Long-lived,distinctivewines,espVitovska(w),MALVAZIJA,SAUVBL.Try:TERAN,TerraRossa,CABSAUV.

Čurin-Prapotnik(PRA-VinO)Podrwsw99’04’05’06’07Pioneerofprivatewineproductionin1970s.World-class,★★★★sweetwines(drierstylesnotsogd),inclfantastic

Icewine(ledenovino),botrytiswinesfromŠIPON,LAŠKIRIZLING,CHARD).

CvičekPosTraditionallow-alcohol,sharp,lightredblendofPOSAVJE,basedonŽametovka.TryBajnof.

Dveri-PaxPodrwsw★★→★★★091011ConsistentwinerynrMaribor.Basicrangeiscrisp,v.gd-valuewhites,espSAUVBL,ŠIPON,RIES.Betteraresingle-v’ydselections:tryŠiponIlovci,SauvBlVagyen,Ries“M”,Chard,MODRIPINOT.Alsosuperbsweetwines,esprareŠipon09strawwine.

EdiSimčičPrimrw★★★→★★★★0607080910PerfectionistinBRDA.Philosophy:lowyields,qualitywithout“trendy”maceration.ExcellentSIVIPINOT,REBULA,whiteblendTritonLex.SuperbKozanasingle-v’ydCHARD;redsDuetLex,top-classKolos.

GuerilaPrimrwsp★★080911OrganicproducerinVIPAVAmakingbenchmarklocalDYAPinelaandZelenandagedRoma

white.IstriaAkaSlovenskaIstra.CoastalzoneextendsintoCroatia;

REFOŠK,MALVAZIJA.Best:Bordon(EVinrosé,MALVAZIJA),Korenika&Moškon(PINOTGR,Kortincared),Rojac(Renero,Starid’Or),PucerzVrha(MALVAZIJA),SANTOMAS,VINAKOPER.

JakončičPrimrw★★★07091011V.gdBRDAproducerwithelegantwhitesandreds,espBelaCarolinaREBULA/CHARDblendandRdeča(r)Carolina.

JoannesPodrwsp★★08091011RIESfocus,gdCHARD,MODRIPINOTandsparkling.

KoglPodrwsp★★080910SmallhilltopwinerynrOrmož,datingbackto16thcentury.MainrangeisfineunoakedMeaCulpawines.

Qualitywines

Takeadeepbreath.Vrhunskovinozzaščitenimgeografskimporeklom,orVrhunskovinoZGP,isthetermfortop-qualityAOPwines(seeboxAOPandIGP),andKakovostnovinoZGPforqualitywines.DeželnovinoPGOisusedforIGPwines.Forqualitysweetwines,descriptionsare:PoznaTrgatev(Spätlese),Izbor(Auslese),JagodniIzbor(Beerenauslese),SuhiJagodniIzbor(TBA).(SeeGermanchapterfordefinitions.)LedenoVinoisIcewine,SlamnoVinoisstrawwinefromsemi-driedgrapes,Peninaisnaturalsparklingwine.

KrasPrimSmall,famousdistrictonTerraRossasoilinPRIMORJE.Best-knownforTERANbutalsowhites,espMALVAZIJA.LookforČOTAR,LisjakBoris,Renčel.

KristančičDusanPrimrw★★08091011BRDAproducerstraddlingItalianborder.TryPavoCHARDandRdečered.

KupljenPodrw★★091011ConsistentdrywinepioneernrJeruzalemknownforRENSKIRIZLING,SAUVBL,SIVIPINOT,CHARD,FURMINT,PINOTN.Winesagewell.

LjutomerOrmožPodFamoussubdistrictinPODRAVJEforcrisp,delicatewhitesandtopbotrytis.SeeČURIN-PRAPOTNIK,P&F,KOGL,Krainz,KUPLJEN,VERUS.

MarofPodrw★★→★★★09’1011ExcitingwineryinPrekmurjeraisingtheimageofthedistrict.DYAclassicrange:v.gdLAŠKIRIZLINGBodonci,RENSKIRIZLING;barrel-fermentedBregCHARD,SAUVBLandsingle-v’ydCruChardandBLAUFRÄNKISCH.

MlečnikPrimw★★★TinyVIPAVAproducer;natural,long-aged,maceratedwhites.

MoviaPrimrwsp★★★→★★★★030506070809High-profilebiodynamicwinery.Extremewinemakingbutexcellentresults,espVelikoBelo(w)andVelikoRdeče(r)andv.gd

MODRIPINOT.Non-disgorgedsparklingPuroisashowpiecebutorange,maceratedLunar(REBULA)isalove/hatewine.

P&FPodrwsp★★091011FormerJeruzalemOrmožco-opreturnedtooriginalfamilyowners,renamedP&F(Puklavec&Friends).Nowv.gdvalue,inP&Frange.SelectedGomilagoldlabelwinesexcellentespFURMINT,SAUVBL.

PeninaQualitysparklingwinemadebyeithercharmatortraditionalmethod.LookforRADGONSKEGORICE(biggest),Istenič,BJANA,Medot,MOVIA.

PodravjeRegioninthenortheast.Much-improvedquality,espcrisp,drywhites;bettervaluethanwest.AfewlightredsfromPINOTNandModraFrankinja.

PosavjeRegioninthesoutheast.Mostsuccessfulwinesaresweet,espPRUS,Šturm(amazing★★★★IcewineandbotrytisversionsofMUSCAT)andsparklingfromIstenič(reliableMihaNV,bestGourmetRoséandPrestigeBrut).

PrimorjeRegioninthesouthwestfromSlovenianISTRIAtoBRDA.AkaPrimorska.

PruswswSmallfamilyproducer;stunning★★★★0103040609sweetwines,espIcewines,strawwinesfromRumeniMUŠKAT,SAUVBL;lusciousbotrytisTRAMINER.

Oldestvineinproduction?ŽametovkainMaribor,400years+,stillmakingwine.

PtujskaKletPodrwsp★★→★★★091011V.gdcrisp,modernwhites,espPullusSAUVBL,RIES,Ranfol.Excellent“G”wines(espSauvBlandSladko)andlovelyRenskiRizlingTBA(seeGermany)08’.

RadgonskeGoricePod★Winezoneandnameofco-opproducingbest-sellingSloveniansparklerSrebrna(silver)PENINA,classic-methodZlata(golden)PENINA,andpopulardemi-secblacklabelTRAMINEC.

RefoškTheredtodrinkinIstria;shouldbenicelytannic,fruity,brusque.

SantomasPrimrw★★★06070809InISTRIAwithFrenchconsultant.Someofthecountry’sbestandREFOŠK-CABSAUVblendswithlongageingpotential,espAntonius,GrandeCuvée.Mezzoforteisv.gd-value,CasmeRéRosétasty.

ŠčurekPrimrwsw★★→★★★060708091011GdconsistentBRDAproducer.DYAvarietiesBELIPINOT,CHARD,REBULA.Bestwinesfocusonlocalgrapes,espStaraBrajda(rw),Pikolit,Up.

Simčič,MarjanPrimrwsw★★★★060708091011Whites,espSIVIPINOT,SAUVIGNONASSE,REBULA,CHARDandSAUVBLSelekcijaimpress.TeodorBelo(w)andTeodorRdeče(r)aresuperb.MODRIPINOTiselegant.ExcellentOpokasingle-v’ydrange,espnotableSauvBlandMERLOT.SweetLeonardoisgreat.

ŠtajerskaSlovenijaPodImportantwinedistrictsince2006.CheckoutGaube,Frešer,Kušter,Conrad-Fürst,MiroVino.

SteyerPodwswsp★★0708091011TRAMINERspecialistinRADGONSKEGORICE:allstylesfromsparklingtoexcellentsweetVaneja.DecentSAUVBLandRanina.

SutorPrimrw★★★0809ExcellentproducerfromVIPAVA.CHARDisoneofcountry’sbestandageswell.V.gdSAUVBLandfineMALVAZIJA.

TiliaPrimrw★★08091011Husband-and-wifeinVIPAVA,appetizingDYAwhites:Sunshinelabel;premiumGoldenTiliarange,finePINOTN,NostraZelen/Pinela.

Valdhuberrw★★091011FirstdrywhitesinPODRAVJE.NotableSAUVBL,gdLAŠKIRIZLING.

VerusPodrw★★★09’1011’Youngteamdoingwellwithfine,focusedwhites,espv.gdFURMINT,crispSAUVBL,flavoursomePINOTGRandzestyRIES.PINOTNduesoon.

VinakoperPrimrw★→★★060809Largecompany,ownv’ydsinISTRIA.Gd-valueCaprisline(DYAMALVAZIJA,REFOŠK);premiumCapod’IstriaCABSAUV,Refošk.

VinskaKletGoriškaBrdaPrimrw★→★★★060708091011ModernizedmajorwineryinBRDA.V.gd-valueDYAwhites,espQuercusSIVIPINOT,PINOTBL.Bagueriishigher-qualityline;excellentA+redandwhiteonlyproducedinbestvintages.

VipavaPrimValleynotedforcoolbreezesinPRIMORJE,recentlysourceofsomeofSlovenia’sbestwines.Producers:BATIČ,BURJA,GUERILA,Štokelj(bestPinela),MLEČNIK,SUTOR,TILIA.AlsotrybetterLanthierirangefromco-opVipava1894.

ZanutPrimrw★★0609smallfamilywineryinBRDAfamedforaromaticSAUVBLandintopyrssingle-v’ydMERLOTBrjač.

ZlatiGričPodrwsp★★NewinvestmentnrMaribor,with75haandNZwinemaker.

CROATIAAtthetimeofwritingCroatiawasstillontracktojointheEUinJuly2013,butitlooksasthoughitwillbethelastentrantforsomeyears.Economicnecessityisdrivingexports,usinganew“VinaMosaica”logotoemphasizethehugevarietyofgrapesandwinestyles.AsaresultCroatianwinesareincreasinglyavailableatspecialistimporters,eg.intheUKandtheUSA.Undoubtedlythewineindustry’sgreateststrengthisthebuoyanttourismmarket–andhopefullyplentyofgoodwilltowardsCroatianwineswhentheygethome.

Agrokorrw★★091011Majorgroupwithover30%ofCroatianmarket,andseveralwineries,inclVinaLagunaFestigia(gdMALVAZIJA,MalvazijaRiserva,MOSCATOrosé,TERAN,CABSAUV),VinaBelje(espMERLOT,Frankovka,Goldberg

GRAŠEVINAandCHARD),IločkiPodrumi(TryGraševinaselected,PrincipovacTRAMINAC).

Arman,FrancIstrw★★07080911Sixth-generationfamilywinery.V.gd,precisewhitesanddecentTERANbarrique.

BabičDalmRareredfromstonysea-terracesatŠibenic.Atbestalmostburgundian.

Badel1862Dalmrw★★08091011Majorproducerwithfourwineries;state-ownedstakeisbeingprivatized.Qualitysurprisinglygd,espIvanDolacfromPZSvirče,POSTUP&DINGAČfromPZVinarijaDingač,KorlatSYRAHfromBenkovac.Gd-valueDuravarrange,espSAUVBL,GRAŠEVINA.

BenvenutiIstrw★★Familywineryusinglocalgrapes.TrybothDYAandagedversionsofMALVAZIJAandv.gdTERAN09.

BodrenNCroawsw★★→★★★091011Excellentsweetwinesinotherwiseunregardedarea,inclChâteauBezanecCHARD,SIVIPINOT,RIES.SuperbIcewine.

BolfanNCroawdr★★091011NewproducernrZagrebwith20ha.Fresh,appetizingwines,inclgdPINOTNrosé,PINOTGR,RIESandSAUVBL.

CapoIstwrdr★★Newquality-focusedproducerinIstriasince2009.V.gdStellarange,espSAUVBLSagittarius,CABFRAries,PINOTNGemini.

CattunarIstrwdr★★091011OneofISTRIA’slargestprivateproducers.MALVAZIJA,esplate-harvestCollina,isv.gd.

CoronicaIstrw★★0911NotableISTRIANwinery,espMALVAZIJA.TheGranTERANisbenchmarkforthistrickygrape.

DalmatiaRockycoastalzoneandislands.WarmMediterraneanclimategivesweighty,full-bodiedwines.

DingačDalm06070809Firstqualitydesignationin1961,nowPDO,onPelješacpeninsulainsouthernDALMATIA.Robust,full-bodiedPLAVACMALI.Lookfor:Bura-Mrgudič,Kiridžija,Lučič,Matuško,Madirazza,SAINTSHILLS,VinarijaDingač.

Enjingi,IvanNCroawsw★★V.gdsweetbotrytis,drywhites,espGRAŠEVINA,Venje.

Galic´NCroarw★★091011PromisingnewproducerinSLAVONIJA,espGRAŠEVINA,Crno9andfinePINOTCRNI.

Vrhunskovino:premium-qualitywine;KvalitetnoVino:qualitywine;StolnoVino:tablewine.Suho:dry;Polsuho:semi-dry.

Gracin,LeoDalmrw★★Academicandowner/winemakeratSuhaPunta(Babič0809isexcellent)andconsultanttoStinaonBračisland(v.gdPOŠIP11,PLAVACMALI09andinterestingrareVugava).

Grgic´Dalmrw★★→★★★LegendaryNapaValleyproducerreturnedtohisrootstomakePLAVACMALI0709andrichPOŠIP10onPelješacPeninsula.

HvarDalmBeautifulislandinmid-Dalmatia:PLAVACMALI,incl

IvanDolacdesignation.Gd:Carič,Plančič,ZLATANOTOK,PZSvirče,TOMIČ(Bastijanawinery).

IstriaDynamicregiononNorthAdriaticpeninsula.MALVAZIJAisthemaingrape.GdalsoforCABSAUV,MERLOTandTERAN.LookforARMANFRANC,BENVENUTI,CATTUNAR,Clai(orangewinesespSvetiJakov),CAPO,CORONICA,Cossetto(MalvazijaRustica,Mozaik),Degrassi(MUSCAT,TerreBianche),Gerzinič(Teran),Kabola(espMalvazijaAmforaandUnica),KOZLOVIČ,MATOŠEVIČ,Meneghetti(Red08),Peršurič(Croatia’sbestsparklingwines,espMisalMilleniumBrut09)Pilato(Malvazija,PINOTBL)RADOVAN,Ritoša,ROXANICH,SAINTSHILLS,BRUNOTRAPAN.

KortaKatarinaDalmrw★★★0607080911New-generationsmallproducerwithmoderntakeontraditionalstyles.ExcellentPOŠIP,PLAVACMALI,espReuben’sRes.

Kozlovic´Istw★★→★★★0911Benchmarkproducerof

MALVAZIJAinallitsforms,espSantaLuciaandAkacia(maturedinacaciabarrels).

Krauthaker,VladoNCroarwsw★★★0809’1011TopproducerfromKUTJEVO,espCHARDRosenberg,GRAŠEVINAMitrovac,Zelenac(semi-dryandsweet)andsweetGraševinaIzbornaBerba.Improvingreds.

KutjevoNCroaNamesharedbyatowninSLAVONIJA,heartlandofGRAŠEVINA,and★→★★KutjevoCellarswith★★★GRAŠEVINAIcewine09.

Matoševic´Istrw★★→★★★08091011BenchmarkMALVAZIJA,espAlbaRobinia.Alsov.gdGrimalda(r)0810andwhite.

Miloš,FranoDalmrsw★★050608HighlyregardedforpowerfulStagnum,butPLAVAC08ismoreapproachable.

GrapevarietiesCroatiahas39indigenousgrapes,inclredBabič(bestisGRACIN),Bogdanuša(fromHVAR),Debit(tryBibichLučica),Gegič(tryBoškinac),Grk(tryGRGIČ),Maraština(Sladičisgd)andVugava(Stina).

PostupDalmFamousv’yddesignationnorthwestofDINGAČ.Full-bodied,richPLAVACMALI.DonjaBanda,Miličič,MrgudičMarija,VinarijaDingačarenoted.

ProšekDalmPassito-styledessertwinefromDALMATIA,madefromdriedlocalgrapesBogdanuša,Maraština,Prč.LookforHectorovichfromTOMIČ.

RadovanIstrw★★→★★★0911ExcellentfamilyproducerofimpeccablewhitesandsuperbCABSAUVandMERLOT.

Naturalwinemakingandamberwinesareanotabletrend,especiallyinIstria.

RoxanichIstrw★★→★★★060708Naturalproducer(seeFrance)makingpowerful,intriguingwhites(MALVAZIJAAntica,Milva)andimpressivecomplexreds,espTERANRé,SuperistrianCuvée,MERLOT.

SaintsHillsDalm,Istrw★★→★★★080910High-profileproducersince2008withMichelRollandconsulting.V.gdNevinaMALVAZIJA/CHARD.FunStHeelsrosé.PLAVACMALIStRoko10haspotential.

SlavonijaNCroaSubregioninnorth,historicallyforwhitesbutgdredsnow,espPINOTN.LookoutforAdzič,Bartolovič,Belje,ENJINGI,GALIC´,KRAUTHAKER,KUTJEVO,Mihalj,Zdjelarevič.Alsofamousforgrowingoak.

TeranREFOSCOwine(REFOŠK)fromthekarstsoilsofIstria.Rustic,

acidic,appetizing.TomacNCroarwsp★★Familywith200-yr-oldwinehistorynr

Zagrebfamousforsparklingwinesandpioneeringamphorawines.

TomičDalmrw★★→★★★06070809BastijanawineryonislandofHVAR.V.gdbarriquePLAVACMALIandPROŠEKHectorovichfromdriedgrapes.

Trapan,BrunoIstrw★★→★★★091011Risingstar,espMALVAZIJA,inclagedUroborosandfreshPonente.PioneerwithSYRAHinISTRIA.

ZlatanOtokDalmrw★★→★★★07080910Muchadmiredforhugereds,espZlatanPlavacGrandCru0809.V’ydinvestmentsshowinginbetter-balancedwines:ZlatanPlavacBarrique,Crljenak(rescuedfromextinction)andPOŠIP10.

ZlatanPlavacDalmGrandcrudesignationforPLAVACMALI.Usuallyv.highalcohol.

BOSNIA&HERZEGOVINA,MACEDONIA(FYROM),SERBIA,MONTENEGROHeartlandoftheBalkans;eachcountryhasitsowngrapesandwineculture.Modernwinemaking,investmentmakingwinesaccessible.Bosnia&HerzegovinahasitsplummyredBlatinagrapeand

grapeywhiteŽilavka(tryHercegovinaProduktforboth),pluscharacterful,ripeVranac(tryVinarijaVukojeandTvrdošMonastery).

Macedonia(strictlyFYROMduetoongoingdisagreementswithGreeceoverthename)isnowproducingsomeseriouslyinterestingquality.LookoutforgiantTikveš’excitingsingle-v’ydwinesunderBelaVodaandBarovolabels,while

newcomerStobiisseekingtomakeamajorimpressionafterinvesting€20m(MUSCATOttonelandVranecVeritasbestsofar).Onasmallerboutiquescale,ChateauKamnikimpresses,esp10BarrelsCABSAUV,SYRAH,CuvéePrestigeandTemjanika,andlookforBovin,espDissanBarrique.

Serbia’sninewineregionsnowfeatureacoupleofglobal-standardproducers.Radovanovic´CabResisclassyandAleksandrovic´alsoimpresses,espTrijumfwhites,PINOTN-basedTrijumfNoirandRodoslav.InterestingwinesalsofromVinoBudimir(TriadaandSvbRosa,bothredsbasedonlocalProkupac),Spasic´(Tamjanika),VinarijaKovačevičandZvonkoBogdan.

Montenegro’sv’ydsareconfinedtothecoastalzoneandaroundLakeSkadar:13JulPlantažeisthe(stillstate-owned)majorproducerbutisconsistent(tryProcordeVranac),alsolookoutforthefirstprivatewinery,MilenkoSjekloča(decentVranac).

CZECHREPUBLIC&SLOVAKREPUBLIC

CzechRepublicTwowineregions:tinyBohemiaand20-times-largerMoravia.Wineconsumptionisincreasing,takingoverfromtraditionalbeeramongsmartclasses,withpatrioticdrinkersconsumingnearlyallproductiondespitehighprices.Exportnotontheagenda.VOC(VínoOriginálníCertifikace)isfirststeptowardsfocusonplaceasopposedtovariety.Znojmowasfirst,nowalsoMikulov,ModréHory,Pálava.

Czechthelabel:“Klaret”meansBlancdeNoirs–nothingtodowithCabernet.

BohemiaLight,sufficientlyagreeablewines;smallregionneighbouringSaxony;similarstyles.ElbeValleybest:BettinaLobkowicz(outstandingPINOTN,classic-methodspRIES);BohemiaSektgroup(largestsparklingproducer;alsoownsVínoMikulov,HabánskéSklepy,ChâteauBzenecandWineryPavlovinMoravia);otherareasKarlštejn,Otmíčetothewest,KutnáHoraandKukstotheeastandsmallv’ydsroundPrague(Salabka,Gröbovka,Svatováclavská,Modřanská).KosherwinesfromChrámcenrMostinnorthwest.

MoraviaThelargerregion.Small,interestingproducers.RadomilBaloun:investingandmodernizing;DobráVinice:maverickinspiredbySlovenia’sAlešKristančič,bestwhitewinesinthecountry;Sonberk:laudedstrawwine;Stapleton-Springer:joint-venturebetweenJaroslavSpringerandex-USambassadorCraigStapleton,allred,emphasisonPINOTN,finestredsaround;VinselektMichlovský:huge,varyingquality;ZnovínZnojmo:

enterprising,award-winning.

SlovakRepublicGrapesandwinessimilartoCzechRepublic.V’ydsshadowthewesternandsouthernbordersasfarasthesmalldistrictofTokajadjacenttoitsmorecelebratedHungariannamesakeintheeast.AsintheCzechRepublic,fewsignsofanycrisishere,withlotsofbigmoneycontinuingtoflowintoswankynewwineries.SektcomesfromJEHubert,nownation’slargestproducerandinhandsofGermany’sDr.Oetker.AlsoChâteauBelá:EgonMüller(Germany)involvement,producing(notsurprisingly)thebestandlongest-lastingRIESinSlovakiabyfar;Elesko:hugenewfacilityunrivalledinCentralEurope,withrestaurant,artgallery(AndyWarholartworks)andmoneycomingfromthecementindustry.KiwiNigelDaviesfliesintoadvise.Widerangeofwinesrapidlygaininginstature.SistercompanyinTokajwith15hav’yds;Mrva&Stanko:

reliable;J&JOstrožovič:bestofthefewSlovakTokajproducers;VínoMatyšák:highlysuccessfulfamilyfirmsince1989,nowgrownenormously.

ROMANIAThereisnoquestionaboutthehighpotentialofRomania,butwhenwillitcomegood?Atlastsomesmallestatewineriesareappearing,challengingthelacklustreperformanceofthedominantbigfivecompanies.Eventwoofthebigplayersareuppingtheirgamebybringingininternationallyexperiencedwinemakers.Theeconomiccrisisisstillhittingdomesticsales,forcingrenewed(andsuccessful)effortstoexport.

AvincisMunrw★★1011(12)Stylishnewfamilywinerywithownv’ydsinDRĂGĂŞANI;Alsacewinemaker.Onetowatch.

BanatSmallwineregioninwest.SeeCRAMELERECAŞ.AlsolocationofpromisingnewItalianestate,PetroVaselo(tryAlb11,Ovas09,Melgris11).

BudureascaMunrw★→★★11Large300haestateinDEALUMARE.Budureasca,Originilabels.Consistentwines,espOriginiCABSAUV,TĂMÂIOASĂROMÂNEASCĂ,SHIRAZ.

CotnariMoldRegioninnortheast,famousforover500yrsforbotrytizedwines.NowmostlymediumtosweetGRASĂ,FETEASCĂALBĂ,TĂMÂIOASĂanddryFrâncusă.Also★CotnariWinery,with1,200ha.Collectionwinesesp

CramaGirboiuMoldrw★Newwinery(founded2005)with200hainVrancea.GdFETEASCĂALBĂBacanta11.

CramaOprisorMunrw★★→★★★08091011ValDunaandRiverRoutearegdexportlabels.V.gdCramaOprisorrange,espLaCetateCABSAUV,TĂMÂIOASĂROMÂNEASCĂ,MaiastruMERLOT,andSmerenie.Topredblend:Fragmentarium.

CrameleRecaşBanrw★★→★★★08091011ProgressiveBritish/Romanianwineryandv’ydsinBANATregion.Qualitybetterthanever,esptopblendsCuvéeUberlandredandSolo

Quintawhite.Alsov.gdSoleCHARD,FETEASCĂREGALĂ,LaPuterereds.AlsovaluemodernvarietalsunderIheart,V,Frunza,CastelHuniade,PaparudaandTerraDacicalabels.

CrişanaandMaramuresRegiontonorthwest.Much-improvedWinePrincessandNachbilbasedhere.

DavinoWineryMunrw★★★0607’0809’10TopRomanianestatewith68hainDEALUMARE.V.gdDomCeptura(rw),excellentAlbaValahicaandPurpuraValahicashowcasinglocalvarieties.Flamboyantredblend(0709)issuperb,whileRezervared07setsnewqualitystandardsforRomania.

DealuMare/DealulMareMun“TheBigHill”.ImportantareainsoutheasternCarpathianfoothills.Locationofpromisingnewboutiques:LACERTA,Rotenberg(MERLOT,espMenestrel,Notorius),CramaBasilescu(MerlotandFETEASCĂNEAGRĂ).

DobrogeaBlackSearegion.InclDOCregionsofMURFATLAR,BadabagandSaricaNiculitel.Historicallyfamousforsweet,

late-harvestCHARDandnowforfull-bodiedreds.NeworganicestateVifranashowspromise.

DomeniileOstrovDobrw★€20minvestmentwith1,200hainDOBROGEA.DecentcommercialDYACABSAUVandMUSCATOTTONEL.

RomanianPinotNoir,inthepast,oftenwasn’tPinotNoiratall.Nowitis.

DomeniileSahateniMunrw★→★★70haestateinDEALUMARE.Nomad(New-Worldstyle),Artisan(localvarieties:tryWhiteArtisan,TĂMÂIOASĂROMÂNEASCĂ)andAnimafortopwines(espMERLOT).

DomeniulCoroaneiSegarceaMunrwsw★★091011Historicroyalestateresurrectedbyformercardiologist.Best:aromaticwhites,inclSAUVBL,TĂMÂIOASĂ(appealingrarerosé,semi-sweetversion).DecentCHARD,CABSAUVandPINOTN.

DrăgăşaniMunDynamicregioninCarpathians.PRINCEŞTIRBEYpioneeredrenaissance,joinedbyAVINCIS,Negrini(try11SAUVBLandFETEASCĂREGALĂblend),Isarescu,ViaSandu.Gdforaromaticcrispwhites,esplocalCrâmposieSelectionată,TĂMÂIOASĂandzestySauvBl,anddistinctivelocalreds:Novac,NegrudeDrăgăşani.

HalewoodRomaniaMunrw★→★★091011British-ownedcompanywithnewqualityfocussince2009.Bestwinesincl:HyperionFETEASCĂNEAGRĂ,CABSAUV,ChronosPINOTN,TheiaCHARD.Alsov.gd:LaCatinaPinotN,SHIRAZ/FeteascăNeagră,ScurtaVIOGNIER/TĂMÂIOASĂ.LaUmbraisgd-valuecommercialbrand,espPinotN.Co-ownsVITISMETAMORFOSISinpartnershipwithAntinori(Italy).

Jidveiw★Expensivelymodernizedwinerywith2,100hainJidveisubregioninTRANSYLVANIA.NewwineconsultantMarcDworkinfrom11(alsoBulgaria’sBESSAVALLEY)already

improvingwines.LacertaMunrw★★0910(11)Newquality-focusedestatein

DEALUMAREwith82ha(tryCuvéeIXredandCuvéeXwhite).Liliacrw★→★★11Firstreleasefrom60haestatein

TRANSYLVANIA.Delicate,freshwhites,espFETEASCĂALBĂanddelicioussweetMUSCATOTTONEL.

DOCDenumiredeOrigineControlataistheRomaniantermforAOP(seeFrance).Sub-categoriesinclDOC-CMDforwinesharvestedatfullmaturity,DOC-CTforlate-harvestandDOC-CIBfornoble-harvest.VincuindicatiegeograficăistermforIGP.

Moldova/MoldoviaLargestwineregionnortheastofCarpathians.

BordersRepublicofMoldova.DOCareas:Bohotin,COTNARI,Huşi,Iaşi,Odobeşti,Coteşti,Nicoreşti.

Muntenia&OlteniaHillsMajorwineregioninsouthcoveringDOCsDEALUMARE,DealurileOlteniei,DRĂGĂŞANI,Pietroasa,Sâmbureşti,Stefaneşti,VanjuMare.

MurfatlarDobDOCareainDOBROGEAnrBlackSea;subregionsCernavoda,Megidia.

MurfatlarWineryDobrw★→★★Majordomesticplayerwithvariablequality;bestareM1SHIRAZ,TreiHectare(FETEASCĂNEAGRĂ,CABSAUV,CHARD).NewboutiquewineryM1CramaAtelierjustlaunchedwithNederburg(seeSouthAfrica)winemakerRazvanMaciciconsulting.

PrinceŞtirbeyMunrwdrsw★★→★★★08091011(12)PioneeringestateinDRĂGĂŞANI.V.gddrywhites,esplocalCrâmposieSelectionată,SAUVBL,FETEASCĂREGALĂ,TĂMÂIOASĂROMÂNEASCĂ.Tastyroséandlocalreds(NovacandNegrude

Drăgăşani)plusnewv.gdbottle-fermentedsparkling.SenatorMoldrw★NewcomerbasedinOdobeştiwith900hain

MOLDOVA,BANATandDanubeDelta.PrivateCollectionandMonserlabels.

SERVEMunrwdr★★→★★★07’0809’1011DEALUMAREwineryfoundedbythelateCountGuydePoixofCorsica.VinulCavalerului(pw)gd,excellentTerraRomanarangeespCHARD,CuvéeAmaury,notablequalityflagship(r)

TransylvaniaCoolmtnplateauincentreofRomania.MostlywhitewineswithgdacidityfromFETEASCĂALBĂandREGALĂ,MUSCAT,TRAMINER,RIESITALICO.

VinarteWineryMunrw★★→★★★07’08091011V.gdItalianinvestmentwiththreeestates:VillaZorilorinDEALUMARE,CastelBolovanuinDRĂGĂŞANI,TeraseDanubianeinVanjuMare.Best:SoareCABSAUV,PrinceMateiMERLOT.Gd-valueCastelStarminarangeespTĂMÂIOASĂROMÂNEASCĂ,SAUV

BL,NegrudeDrăgăşani.VinconVranceaWineryMoldrwdrsw★OneofRomania’s

largestproducerswith2,150hainVrancea,plusDOBROGEAandDEALUMARE.

ViniaMoldrwdrsw★MajorproducerofCOTNARIwinesatIaşi.Gracin,LeoMunrw★★08091011Jointventurebetween

Italy’sAntinorifamilyandBritish-ownedHALEWOOD.Top:CantusPrimusCABSAUV(09).V.gdsecondlabelVitisMetamorfosis,espwhiteblend,plusMERLOT,FETEASCĂNEAGRĂ.

WineRoDobr★★PremiumestateownedbyStephanvonNieppergofCanonlaGaffelière(seeBordeaux),withDr.HauptmannandMarcDworkin.Sameteamowns/runsBulgaria’sBessaValley.AppealingAliraMERLOT09.Towatch.

MALTAMalta’svineyardscannothopetosupplytheisland’sentireconsumption–theplaceisn’tbigenough,andtourismtendstotakeprecedencewhenitcomestolanduse.PlusmuchofthewineonsalehereismadelocallyfromgrapesimportedfromItaly.RealMaltesewineissubjecttoDemoninazzjonita’OriginiKontrollata,orDOK,rules,whichareinlinewithEUpractices.TheindigenousgrapesareGirgentina(w)andGellewza(r),butmanyinternationalgrapesarealsogrown.Antinori-backedMeridianaisinthelead,producingexcellentMalteseIsisandMistralCHARDS,AstarteVERMENTINO,MelquartCABSAUV/MERLOT,NexusMerlot,outstandingBelSyrahandpremiumCelsiusCabSauvResfromislandvines.VolumeproducersofnoteareDelicata,MarsovinandCamilleri.

Greece

GreekwineisviewedbymanyGreeksasoneofthefewwaysoutoftheirproblems,bringingforeignmoneyintothecountryinthecurrentfinancialcrisis.Thequalityhasbeenthereforyears–grapeslikewhiteAssyrtikoandMalagousia,orredAghiorgitikoorXinomavro–andGreecehasmoreindigenousvarietiesthanyoucouldshakeastickat,givingwinesofindividualityinaworldwhereindividualityisthenewluxury.Abbreviations:AegeanIslands(Aeg),Attica(Att),CentralGreece(CGr),Cephalonia(Ceph),IonianIslands(Ion),Macedonia(Mac),NorthernGreece(NGr),Peloponnese(Pelop),Thessaloniki(Thess).

AivalisPelop★★★BoutiqueNEMEAproducerofdarkwines.Top(andpricey)wine“4”,from120-yr-old+vines.Monopati,less

ambitiousNemea.InterestingASSYRTIKO.AlphaEstateMac★★★Impressive,highlyacclaimedestatein

cool-climateAmindeo.ExcellentMERLOT/SYRAH/XINOMAVROblend,pungentSAUVBL,exoticMALAGOUSIA,unfilteredNew-World-styleXINOMAVROfromold,ungraftedvines.Topwine,Alpha1,demandsageing.

AntonopoulosPelop★★★PATRAS-basedwinery,withtop-classMANTINIA,crispAdoliGhis(w),burgundianAnaxCHARDandCAB-basedNeaDris(stunning04and06).Topwine:violet-scentedVertzami/CABFR.

ArgyrosAeg★★★TopSANTORINIproducer;exemplaryVINSANTOaged20yrsincask(★★★★).ExcitingKTIMA(w)thatagesforadecade,oak-agedVareli(w)andsweetMezzo(lighterthanVinsanto).TrytherareMAVROTRAGANO(r).

AvantisCGr★★★BoutiquewineryinEviawithv’ydsinBoetia.DenseSYRAH,AghiosChronosSyrah/VIOGNIER,pungentSAUV

BLandrichMALAGOUSIA,interestingOneiropagidavaluerange.Topwine:Rhône-likesingle-v’ydCollectionSyrah0304050607.

BibliaChoraMac★★★Bothtopqualityandhugecommercialsuccess.PungentSAUVBL/ASSYRTIKO.OvilosCABSandAretiAGHIORGHITIKOarestunning.Ovilos(w)couldrivaltopwhiteBordeaux.Easily.

Boutari,J&Son★→★★★ProducerwithseveralwineriesaroundGreece.Excellent-valuewines,espGrandeReserveNaoussatoagefordecades.V.popularMOSCHOFILERO.Top:SantoriniKalistiRes(oaked),Skalani(r)fromCRETEandherbalFlliria(r)fromGOUMENISSA.

CairAegLargewineryinRHODESspecializinginsparkling(the96roséisthebestsparklingevermadeinGreece)butPathosstillrange(rw)isv.gdvalue.

Cambas,Andrew★Large-volumebrandownedbyBOUTARI.

Carras,DomaineMac★→★★EstateatSithonia,Halkidiki,withownOPAP(CôtesdeMeliton).ChateauCarras0102030405,ambitiousSYRAHandMALAGOUSIA.

CavaLegaltermforcask-agedstillwhiteandrednon-appellationwines,eg.CavaAmethystosKOSTALAZARIDI,CavaHATZIMIHALI.

CephaloniaIonImportantislandwiththreeappellations:ROBOLA(w),MUSCAT(wsw)andMAVRODAPHNE(rsw).Amust-visitforallwine-lovers.

CreteAnexciting,ever-improvingislandregion,withyoungproducerstakingaclose,freshlookattradition.

Daskalaki,Silva★★Imaginativeproducer,flirtingwithbiodynamics.TrytheSilvasweetLiatiko.

DougosThess★★→★★★OnslopesofOlympus.Excitingrange,espOpsimo(r),Acacia(w)andRAPSANI.ExemplaryMethymon(r)08.

DriopiPelop★★★VentureofTSELEPOSinNEMEA.Serious(esp

single-v’ydKTIMA),high-octanestyle.Tavel-likeDriopirosé.EconomouCrete★★★OneofthegreatartisansofGreece,with

brilliant,esotericSitia(r).Notforeveryone,norforthefaint-hearted.

EmeryAeg★→★★HistoricRHODESproducer,specializinginlocalvarieties.

FeggitesMac★★WineryinDrama.Interestingrange:topDeka(w);Bandol-likerosé.

GaiaAeg,Pelop★★★Top-qualityNEMEA-andSANTORINI-basedproducer.FunNotiosrange.New-World-likeAGHIORGHITIKO.Thought-provoking,top-class,drywhiteThalassitisSANTORINIandrevolutionarywild-fermentAssyrtiko.Topwine:GaiaEstate(990001030405060708).AnatolikossweetNemea,dazzling“S”red(AghiorghitikowithatouchofSYRAH).

GentiliniIon★★→★★★ExcitingCephaloniawhites,inclv.gdRobola.V.gddryMAVRODAPHNE(r),seriousSYRAH.Selection

ROBOLAisnotanappellationwinesincelawforbidsscrewcap.

AgeAssyrtikofor10yearsandtrytotellitfromChablisGrandCru.You’llbesurprised.

GerovassiliouMac★★★PerfectionistminiatureestatenrSalonika.BenchmarkASSYRTIKO/MALAGOUSIA,smoothSYRAH/MERLOTblend,topMalagousia.ComplexAvaton(r)0304050607fromrareindigenousvarietiesandSyrah(0102030405).Formany,thequalityleader.

GoumenissaMac(OPAP)★→★★XINOMAVRO/Negoskaoakedred,lighterthanNAOUSSA.EspAidarinis(singlev’ydis★★★),BOUTARI(espFiliria),Tatsis.

HatzidakisAeg★★★Low-techbuthigh-classproducer,a“spiritual”leaderredefiningSANTORINIappellation.Stunningrange,borderingontheexperimental.Nihteri,MylosandPyrgosbottlingscouldagefordecades.

HatzimichalisCGr★→★★LargeestateinAtalanti.Hugerange.GreekandFrenchvarieties,manybottlingslabelledafterv’yds.Top:KapniasCABSAUV,Veriki(w).

HeliosPelopNewumbrellanameforSemeli,NassiakosandOrinosHelioswines.TopNassiakosMANTINIA,complexNEMEAGrandeRes.

KarydasMac★★★Smallestateandgreatv’ydinNAOUSSAcraftingclassicXINOMAVROofgreatbreed.Ageforadecade.

Katogi-Strofilia★★→★★★V’ydsandwineriesinAttica,PeloponneseandeastEpirus.KatogiwasthefirstpremiumGreekwine.Topwines:KTIMAAveroffandRossiudiMunterange.CharmingStrofilia(w).

KatsarosThess★★★SmallwineryonMtOlympus.KTIMAred,aCABSAUV/MERLOT,hasstayingpower.EsotericCHARD.Broad-shoulderedMerlot.

Kir-YanniMac★★→★★★V’ydsinNAOUSSAandAmindeo.

VibrantSamaropetra(w)andTesserisLimnes(w);Akakissparklingajoy.RedsRamnista,DiaporosandBlueFoxareexceptional.

Kourtakis,D★★HugeandreliablemerchanttradingasGreekWineCellars:excellent-valueredsandmildRetsina.

KtimaEstate,domaine.Lazaridi,NicoMac★→★★★WineriesinDramaandKavala.

GdChâteauNicoLazaridi(rw).TopwinesMagikoVounowhite(oakySAUVBL)andred(CABSAUV)enjoycultstatusinGreece.

Lazaridis,KostasAtt,Mac★★★V’ydsandwineriesinDramaandAttika(soldunderOenotriaLandlabel).PopularAmethystoslabel.Top:amazingCAVAAmethystosCABSAUV(9798990001020304).MichelRolland(Bordeaux)consults.

LimnosAegIslandmakingmainlydessertwines,fromdelicious,lemonyMUSCATofAlexandriabutalsosomerefreshingdry

white.Bestproducer:Hatzigeorgiou.LyrarakisCrete★★→★★★V.gdproducerfromHeraklio.

Solidrange.WhitesfromtherarePlytoandDafnivarieties(single-v’ydversionsareextraordinary).Deep,complexSYRAH/Kotsifali.

MagelMac,NGr★★Up-and-comingKTIMAinunchartedterritoryinKastoria,WestMacedonia.Dressed-to-kill,rich,densewines,mainlyfromBordeauxvarieties.

ManoussakisCrete★★★ImpressiveestatewithRhône-inspiredblends.DelectablerangeunderNostosbrand,ledbyage-worthyROUSSANNEandSYRAH.

MantiniaPelop(OPAP)wHighaltitude,coolregion.Fresh,crisp,utterlycharming,sometimessparklingMoschofilero.MoreGermanthanGreekinstyle.

Matsa,ChâteauAtt★★Historicsmallestate,nowownedbyBOUTARIbutstillrunbyRoxaniMatsa.MALAGOUSIAisaleading

exampleofthevariety.MavrodaphneGrapevarietyandusuallysweetwine–meaning

“Blacklaurel”.Cask-agedPort-style/recioto-like,concentrated,fortifieds.SpecialityofPATRAS,northPeloponnesebutalsofoundinCEPHALONIA.Dryversions(eg.ANTONOPOULOS)showgreatpromise.

MediterraCrete★★GdproducerfromPEZA.HerbaceousXerolithia(w),spicyMirabelo(r).oakyNobile(w)toage.V.gd-valueSileniusrange.

MercouriPelop★★★OneofthemostbeautifulfamilyestatesinEurope.V.gdKTIMA(r),deliciousRODITIS,age-worthyCAVA.ClassyREFOSCO(r),stunningsweetBelvedereMALVASIAandleathery,dryMAVRODAPHNE.

MezzoAegSweetwineinSANTORINIfromsun-driedgrapes;lighterandlesssweetthanVINSANTO.

MitravelasPelop★★→★★★OutstandingproducerinNEMEA,

promisinggreatthingsfromAGHIORGHITIKO.MoraitisAeg★★Small,qualityproducerontheislandofParos.

V.gdsmoky(w)Monemvasia,(r)earthyandcomplexParosRes.

NaoussaMac(OPAP)High-qualityregionforsophisticated,excellentXINOMAVRO.ThebestexamplesareonaparwithItaly’sBaroloandBarbaresco,sometimeslastingevenlongerthanthese.

NemeaPelop(OPAP)Sourceofdark,spicyAGHIORGHITIKOwines.Hugepotentialforqualityhere.HighNemeameritsitsownappellation.Koutsiisfrontrunnerforcrustatus(seeGAIA,SKOURAS,NEMEION,PAPAIOANNOU,HELIOS,DRIOPI).

NemeionPelop★★★AKTIMAinNEMEA,highprices(espIgemonred),withwinestomatch.OwnedbyVassiliou,anAtticaproducer.

OenoforosPelop★★→★★★V.gdproducerwithfantastichigh

v’yds.ExtremelyelegantRODITISAsprolithi.AlsodelicateLagorthi(w),nuttyCHARD(magnumonly),anddelicateMikrosVorias(rw).Ianosisprestigerange–trytheChard.

WinebarsinAthensarenewhottrend,offeringgreat,affordableGreekwines.

PapaïoannouPelop★★★IfNEMEAwereBurgundy,PapaioannouwouldbeJayer.Classyreds(inclPETITVERDOT);flavourfulwhites.AbenchmarkrangeofNemeas:KTIMAPapaioannou,PaleaKlimata(oldvines),Microklima(amicro-singlev’yd)andtop-endTerroir(asuper-strict,200%-new-oakedselection).

PatrasPelopWhiteOPAPbasedonRODITISfromv.diverseterroir:somegreatparts,somelessso.AlsohomeofbothOPEMAVRODAPHNEandRio-PatrassweetMUSCAT.

PavlidisMac★★★AnambitiousestateatDrama.AcclaimedASSYRTIKO/SAUVBL.EmphasisvarietalsinclclassyAssyrtiko,

SYRAHandTEMPRANILLO.KTIMA(r)fromAGHIORGHITIKO/Syrahisdazzling.Top-rankingstuff.

PezaCreteAppellationnrHeraklio.Vilana(w)andMandilaria/Kotsifali(r).Underperforming.

PyrgakisPelop★★→★★★HighlyexperimentalKTIMAcapitalizingonthehighestpartsofNEMEA.EspnewPETITVERDOTand24CHARD.Opulentstyle.

RapsaniThess★★★HistoricOPAPfromMtOlympus.Introducedinthe1990sbyTSANTALIS,butnewproducers,suchasLiappisandDOUGOS,aremovingin.

RetsinaSpecialitywhitewithAleppopineresinadded.Modern,high-qualityversions,likeTheTearofthePinefromKehrisarestunning.Damagedimageisapity.

RhodesAegEasternmostislandandOPAPforredandwhite.Hometolemony,elegantAthiriwhites.Topwines:CAIR(co-op),Rodos2400,andEmery’sVillare.Alsosparkling.

SamosAeg(OPE)IslandnrTurkeyfamedforsweetgoldenMUSCAT.Esp(fortified)Anthemisand(sun-dried)Nectar.Rareoldbottlingscanbe★★★★withoutthepricetag,suchasthehard-to-findNectar75.

SantoAeg★★→★★★Importantco-opofSANTORINI.VibrantportfoliowithdazzlingGrandeResandrichyetcrispVINSANTOS.

SantoriniAegVolcanicislandnorthofCRETEandOPAPforwhite,dryandsweet.LusciousVINSANTOandMEZZO,mineral,bone-drywhitefromASSYRTIKO.Oakedexamplescanalsobeamazing.Topproducers:GAIA,HATZIDAKIS,SIGALAS,SANTO,ARGYROS.Possiblythecheapest★★★★whitesaround.

SigalasAeg★★★TopSANTORINIestate,makesfineoakedVareli.StylishVINSANTO.AlsoexcellentMOURVÈDRE-likeMAVROTRAGANO(trythe08).NyhteriandCavalierosaresimplysublime.

SkourasPelop★★★Innovativeestate,eg.screwcapsonCHARDDumVinumSperum.Mineral,wild-yeastSaltoMOSCHOFILERO.Topreds:GrandeCuvéeNEMEA,MegasOenosandsolera-agedLabyrinth.V.stylishFlevaSYRAH.

SpiropoulosPelop★★OrganicproducerinMANTINIAandNEMEA.OakyredPorfyros(AGHIORGHITIKO,CABSAUV,MERLOT).SparklingOdiPanoshaspotential.Firmsingle-v’ydAstalaMantinia.

TetramythosPelop★★Promisingwineryexploringcoolv’yds.ExcellentMALAGOUSIA,MavroKalavritinoandthefirstnatural(seeFrenchchapter)RODITISofGreece.

TinosVineyardsAeg★★★FascinatingprojectonTinosisland,undertheradarforsometime.ExpensivebutconvincingASSYRTIKOandMAVROTRAGANO.

Tsantalis★→★★★ProducerinMacedonia,Thraceandotherareas.GdMetoxi(r),RAPSANIResandGrandeRes,gd-value

organicCABSAUV,excellentAvatonandcultKormilitsa.Majorexporter.

TseleposPelop★★★Top-qualityMANTINIAproducer.Greece’sbestGEWURZandbestMERLOT(Kokkinomylos).Others:oakyCHARD,v.gdsparkAmalia,single-v’ydAvlotopiCABSAUV.SeealsoDRIOPI.

VinsantoAegSun-driedsweetASSYRTIKOandAidanifromSANTORINI.Deserveslongageing,inoakandbottle.Thebestare★★★★andpracticallyindestructible.SeealsoMEZZO.

VoyatziKtimaMac★★SmallestatenrKozani.ClassyXINOMAVRO,startlingCABFRsoldasTsapournakos.

ZafeirakisThess★★→★★★SmallKTIMAinTyrnavos,unchartedterritoryforqualitywine.Fastidiouswinemaker.Limnionared,av.promisingandrarevariety.MALAGOUSIAissublime.

ZitsaMountainousEpirusOPAP.DelicateDebinawhite,still,or

sparkling.BestfromGlinavos.

GreekappellationsChanginginlinewithotherEUcountries.ThequalityappellationsofOPAPandOPEarenowfusedtogetherintoPOP(orPDO)category.Regionalwines,knownasTO,willnowbePGE(orPGI).Thebasecategoryoftablewine(EO)willbephasedout.Oldtermssteadilyontheirwayofflabels.

EasternMediterranean&NorthAfrica

EASTERNMEDITERRANEANThewineindustriesinthishistoricregionhavebeenrejuvenated,andwhileIsraelandLebanonareahead,Turkishwinesarecreatingagreatdealofnewinterest,withnewandattention-grabbingindigenousgrapevarieties.Whyaretheresomanyindigenousgrapevarieties,andwhyaretheyconstantlybeingrediscovered?LargelybecausethegrapevinewasoriginallycultivatedintheGoldenTriangle,wherecivilizationitselfbegan.Therehasbeenplentyoftimeforvinestomutate,forthesemutationstohavebeencultivatedandthenforgotten.Thevineismorevariousthanwe’dimagined.

CyprusWinemakingcontinuestomakeprogress,especiallywherewinerieshaveinvestedintheirownvineyards,andhavebettercontrolandunderstandingofhowtomanagegrape-growinginthishot,dry

climate.There’sstillscopeformoreresearchintolocalgrapesliketrickyMaratheftikoanddominantlocalwhiteXynisteri,andastheislandisoneofthefewpartsofEuropestillfreeofphylloxera,itneedstobebetterpreparedforthepotentialinvasionofthispest.Sixwineroutesarenowestablishedtoluretouristsawayfromsunandsand:avitalmarketasmostwineriesaretoosmallforexportstobearealisticoption.

ArgyridesEstate(Vasa)rw★★08091011Immaculatepioneeringestatewinery.ExcellentMARATHEFTIKO.V.gdCHARDandAgyridesredblend.VLASSIDESconsults.

AyiaMavriwsw★★0910GorgeoussweetMUSCATS(semi-driedMuscatofAlexandria).

CommandariaLegendarysweet,deliberatelyoxidizedwinemadefromsun-driedXYNISTERIandMAVRO,grownin14villagesintheTroodosMts.ThepoetHesiodmentioneditin800BC.Atits

best,rich,complexandlong-lived.TryStJohn(KEO),Centurion(ETKO)orthe100%XYNISTERIStBarnabasfromSODAP.

Constantinourw★→★★Self-taughtwinemakerinLemesosregionimpressingwithAyioklimaXYNISTERI11andSHIRAZ09

ETKOrwbr★→★★091011Previouslyoneofbigfour,nowfocusingonhigherqualityfromitsOlympuswinery,espSHIRAZandrosé.ProducesStNicholasandCenturionCOMMANDARIA.

Hadjiantonasrw★★091011Spotlesssmallwineryownedbypilot,makingv.gdCHARD,XYNISTERI,roséandSHIRAZ.

KEO★Largedrinksdistributorwithfamousbeerbrand.SticktoestatewinesfromKEOMallia.StJohnis★★COMMANDARIA.

Newdiscovery:BronzeAgemicrobrewerynearPaphosdatingbackaround3,500years.Yes,beer.

Kyperoundarw★★→★★★091011ProbablyEurope’s

highestv’ydat1,450metres.WhitePetritisfrombarrel-agedXYNISTERIisisland’sbest.V.gdCHARD,CABSAUV,SHIRAZandexcellent-valueAndessitisred.

Makkasrw★★1011BoutiquefamilywinerywithqualityambitionsnrPafos.V.gdMARATHEFTIKO,SHIRAZandredblend.

SODAPrw★→★★091011Largestproducerandgrower-ownedco-op.Qualitytransformedsincevisionarymovetostate-of-artKamanterenawineryatStroumbivillageinhills.DYAwhitesandroséaregd-valueandappetizing.LookforIslandVines,MtnVines(espSÉM)andKamanterenalabels.

Tsiakkasrwdr★★Bankerturnedwinemaker,helpfromVLASSIDES.Gdzestywhites,SAUVBL,XYNISTERI,CHARD.Intriguingreds:Vamvakada(akaMARATHEFTIKO),CABSAUV.

Vasilikon,K&Krw★→★★07091011OneofthebiggestsmallwineriesownedbyKyriakidesbrothers.AlwaysreliableXYNISTERIanddecentredAyiosOnoufrios.

Vlassidesrw★★→★★★08091011UCDavis-trainedSophoclesVlassidesmakessomeoftheisland’sbestwines,newwinery2012.SHIRAZshowsvariety’spotentialonCyprus.Alsov.gdXYNISTERI/SAUVBL,CABSAUV,PrivateCollectionred.

Zambartasrw★★→★★★091011FatherandAustralian-trainedsonrunexcitingnewwinerymakingintenseCABFR/LEFKADArosé,v.gdSHIRAZ/LEFKADAredandexcellentMARATHEFTIKOandzestyXYNISTERI.

RulesandregsLemesos,Paphos,LarnacaandLefkosiahaveregionalwinestatus(PGI).PDOscoverCOMMANDARIA,Laona-Akamas,Pitsilia,Vouni-Panayias/AmbelitisandwinevillagesofLemesos,thoughonly2%ofCypruswineisproducedasPDO,andmostisCOMMANDARIA.

IsraelTheIsraeliwinerevolutionhastendedtobebasedonBordeauxvarieties,butthereisamovetoMediterraneanvarieties,whichsuittheclimatebetter.AlreadysomeexcellentShiraz,old-vineCarignan,PetiteSirah.NolackofadvancedtechnologyandagriculturalexpertiseinIsrael:thehigher-altitudevineyardsoftheUpperGalilee,GolanHeights,JudeanHillsusedforquality.Abbreviations:Galilee(Gal),Golan(Gol),JudeanHills(Jud),LowerGalillee(LGal),Negev(Neg),Samson(Sam),Shomron(Shom);UpperGalilee(UpGal).

AdirUpGalr★★V.gdherbal,pepperySHIRAZandfull-bodiedPlato.

AmphoraeGalrw★→★★BordelaisandinternationalconsultantMichelRollandadvises.GdMERLOT/BARBERA.

Barkan-SegalGal,Samrw★★OwnedbyIsrael’slargest

brewery.V.gdBarkanPINOTAGEandSegalArgaman(Israelivine).BarkanAltitudeandAssemblageredsaregd.Thetwobrands,BarkanandSegal,aremarketedseparately.

BinyaminaGal,Samrw★→★★TheCaveredisfullandoaky,withripefruit.

BravdoSamrw★★BigCHARD,spicySHIRAZandgdCABFR-basedblendCoupage.

CarmelUpGal,Shomrwsp★★→★★★Foundedin1882bya(Lafite)Rothschild.Strongv’ydpresenceinUpGal.ElegantLimitedEdition(04’0507’08).Award-winningKayoumiv’ydSHIRAZ.Characterfulold-vineCARIGNANandPETITESIRAH.ComplexMediterranean-styleblend.LusciousGEWURZdessert.

ChâteauGolanGolr(w)★★FlavourfulSYRAH.EliadisBordeauxblend.

ChillagGalr★→★★PrimoCABSAUVbest.VivoMERLOTgd-value.

ClosdeGatJudrw★★★Classyestatewithbig,blowsywines.Thespicy,powerfulSycraSYRAH(060709)andbutteryCHARDaresuperb.Chanson(rw)gd-value.

DaltonUpGalrw★★Well-runwineryownedbyfamilywithEnglishroots.Wild-yeastVIOGNIER.FlagshipisrichMatatia.Spicy,concentratedPETITESIRAH.

DomaineduCastelJudrw★★★★FamilyestateinJerusalemmtns,ownedbyperfectionistandFrancophileEliBenZaken.Characterful,suppleGrandVin(0506’0708’09).Secondlabel,PetitCastel,greatvalue,esp08.AlsogdCHARD.

EllaValleyJudrw★→★★Newwinemaker.Gd,leanCHARD.AromaticCABFR.

FlamJudr(w)★★★Ownedbysonsofex-CARMELwinemaker.Superb,elegantNoble(08’),aBordeauxblend.EarthySYRAH/CAB.ClassicoandRoségd-value.

GalileeQualityregioninnorth,esphigher-altitudeUpGal.

GalilMtnUpGalrw★★Gd-valueYironandMeronblends.OwnedbyYARDEN.

GolanHeightsHigh-altitudeplateau,withvolcanictuffandbasaltsoil.

JudeanHillsMountainousregiononthewaytoJerusalem.KosherMeans“pure”.Requirementsdonotchangewinemaking

procedures,soqualityshouldnotbeaffected.NotallIsraeliwineriesarekosher.

LewinsohnGalrw★★★Qualitygaragisteinagarage.Exquisite,leanCHARD.RedablendofSYRAH,CARIGNANandPETITESIRAH.

MargalitGalr★★★Fatherandsonmakingelegantwines,inparticularBordeauxblendEnigma(08’0910)andSpecialRes.

MonyJud,Samrw★★Israeli-Arabowned,producingkosherwineinamonastery.FragrantCOLOMBARD,v.gdCHARD,full-flavouredSHIRAZ.

NegevDesertregioninthesouthofthecountry.PelterGolrw(sp)★★→★★★Tight,well-madereds.Triogd-

value.V.gdCABFR.RecanatiGalrw★★→★★★Award-winningSpecialRes.(05,

06,07,08’,09’),complexCARIGNAN,chewyPETITESIRAHblend,excellentSHIRAZ.Yasmin(rw)great-value.

MostnativeIsraelivinesaretablegrapes;justfourvarietiesshowvinouspromise.

SamsonRegionincltheJudeanplainandfoothills,southeastofTelAviv.

SasloveUpGalr(w)★→★★Redsshowinganavalancheoffruitandspice.

SeaHorseJudr(w)★→★★Idiosyncraticgaragistewithexoticblends.

ShomronRegionwithv’ydsaroundMtCarmelandZichronYa’acov.

Shvorw★★Qualitystart-up.RusticredfromMediterraneanvarieties.

TaborLGalrwsp★→★★Growingfast.Aromatic,crispSAUVBL.

TeperbergJud,Samrwsp★→★★Efratreborn.Israel’slargestfamily-ownedwinery.MALBECandMeritagearefruity,juicyreds.

TishbiJud,Shomrwsp★→★★Familyofveterangrape-growers.DeepBordeauxblendfromSdeBokerindesert,bestyet.

TulipGalr(w)★→★★Wineryworkersarepeoplewithspecialneeds. TzoraJudrw★★→★★★Terroir-ledwinery,talentedwinemaker.NeveIlanexquisitelybalancedCHARD.MistyHillscomplex,deepCABSAUV/SYRAHblend.

VitkinJudrw★★Smallwineryspecializinginrarervarieties.V.gdCARIGNAN.

YardenGolrwsp★★→★★★★Pioneeringwinery.Yardenlabelbest.CABSAUValwaysgd.Well-balancedOdemV’ydCHARD.RareBordeauxblendKatzrin(00’0304’0708’)andheraldedRom(06’0708)areflagships.OustandingBlancdeBlancssparklingandHeightsWinedessert.Otherlabels:Gamla&Hermon.

YatirJud,Negr(w)★★★→★★★★Rich,velvety,concentratedYatirForest(03’0405’060708’)outstanding.EdgySYRAH,mouthfillingCABSAUVandpowerfulPETITVERDOT.Forestv’ydsupto900metresaltitude.OwnedbyCarmel.

LebanonAnumberofnewwinerieshavesprungup,preparedandabletoinvestinquality.TheserepresenttheNewLebanon,andsomeare

exploringareasotherthantheBekaaValley.Stylesvarybetweentraditionalandmodern;overoakingcanbeaproblem,butproducersarelearning.

CaveKouroumrw★→★★VibrantSYRAH,full-bodiedbutwell-balanced.

ChâteauBelle-Vuer★★★LeChateauandLaRenaissancearetop-notchreds.

ChâteauKarw★→★★Great-valueCABSAUV/MERLOT/SYRAHblend.

ChâteauKefrayarw★★→★★★SpicyComtedeM(060708):CABSAUV,SYRAH,MOURVÈDRE,CARIGNAN.JuicyLesBretèches.PlushVissid’Arte(CHARD,VIOGNIER).

ChâteauKsararw★★Founded1857byJesuits.Excellent-valuewines.Mouthfilling,fruityResduCouvent.SilkyLeSouverainofinterest(CABSAUVandArinarnoa).

ChâteauMarsyasr(w)★★PowerfulCABSAUV/MERLOT/SYRAHblend.AlsoownersofimpressiveDomBargylusfromSyria.

ChâteauMusarrw★★★★IconwineoftheeasternMediterranean.Nextgenerationtakingover.Long-lastingCABSAUV/CINSAULT/CARIGNAN(96979900’01’02030405’).Peopletendtoloveorhatethestyle,butitistotallyoriginal.Hocharredmoreapproachable.OakywhitefromindigenousObaidehandMerwah.

ClosSt-Thomasrw★★Gd-quality,deep,silkyredwines.LesEmirsgreat-value.

DomainedeBaalr(w)★★QualityredfromCABS,MERLOT,SYRAH.Organicv’yd.

DomainedesTourellesrw★★→★★★Upfront,fruityandmeatySYRAH.ElegantMarquisdesBeys.Floweringofrebornwinery.

DomaineWardyrw★→★★New-World-stylePrivateSelection.

Crisp,freshwhites.IXSIRrw★★Ambitiouswinery.V.gdwhite.PromisingGrand

Resred.Karamrw★→★★GdboutiquewineryinJezzine,south

Lebanon.ExoticMUSCAT.Massayarw★★→★★★Entry-levelClassicwinesarev.gd

value.SilverSelectionrediscomplexRhône-styleblendshowingsunandspice.TheprestigeGoldResisfulloffruit,herbsandspice,madefromCABSAUV,MOURVÈDREandSYRAH.

TurkeyFascinatingtothewinehistorian,Turkey’sindigenousgrapevarietiesarenewtomany,likeredÖküzgözü,Boğazkere,KalecikKarasi;whiteNarince,Emir.Winesareimproving,andsofarwithoutlosingtheirnativeoriginality.

Büyülübagr(w)★★Oneofthenewsmall,qualitywineries.GdCABSAUV.

Corvusrw★★→★★★BoutiquewineryonBozcaadaisland.Corpusispowerful.

Dolucarw★→★★Largewinery.Karmalabelblendslocalandclassicvarieties.

Kavaklidererwsp★→★★★LargestwineryinTurkey.Specialistinlocalvarieties.BestareplummyPendoreÖKÜZGÖZÜandcomplex,sweetTatlSertNARINCE.

Kayrarw★→★★Californianwinemaker.V.gdImperialSHIRAZandCABSAUV.

Pamukkalerw★→★★Gd-value,flavourfulAnforaCABSAUV.Sarafinrw★→★★GdCABSAUVandSAUVBL.Brandownedby

DOLUCA.Sevilenrw★→★★Lime-freshFUMÉBLANCwithgreatacidity.

DeepSYRAH.Sulvarw★★Newwinery.DeliciousROUSSANNE/MARSANNE.Urlarw★Organicandbiodynamic.Deep,richNEROD’AVOLA.Vinkararw★FlavourfulwinesfromKalecikKarasigrapes.

NORTHAFRICASomewineshaveimproved,butalackofambitionhasmeantthattheyarelargelyunknown.Itisanareawithahistoryofwinemakingbutlargelyunfulfilledpotential.

CastelFrèresMorrp★Gd-valuebrandslikeBonassia,Sahari,Halana,Larroque.

CelliersdeMeknès,LesMorrpw★→★★DominatesMoroccanmarket.ModernfacilityChâteauRoslane.Gd-valueRiadJamilCARIGNAN,freshCHARD.

CeptunesTunrw★Gdwines,espJouretNuitfromclassicvarieties.

DomaineNeferisTunrpw★→★★Calastrasijointventure.SelianCARIGNANbest.

LesDeuxDomainesMorr★★Depardieu-BernardMagrez(Bordeaux)jointventure.

ThalvinMorrpw★★GdwhitesfromDomainedesOuledv’yds.RaisinyTandem(★★★)isSYRAHwithAlainGraillot(Rhône).

Vald’ArganMorrp★Organicv’ydsnrEssaouiraonwestcoast.VigneronsdeCarthageTunrpw★BestfromUCCVco-op:

MagonMagnusred.Vinsd’AlgerieAlgr★OCNCmarketingcompany.Best:Cuvée

duPresident.VolubiliaMorrpw★★Promisingnewjointventure.Excellent

vingris.

Asia&OldRussianEmpire

ASIAChinaOneoftheworld’sgreatwinesecretsistheenormousscale

ofChinesewineproduction–eventhoughlessthan10%ofthepopulationactuallydrinkswine.EventhatfiguremakesChinatheworld’sfifth-largestconsumer.Chinahasthefourth-largestv’ydareaonearth,producingaroundabillionlitresofwine;volumehasdoubledsince2008.Itcouldbecometheworld’sbiggestproducerwithin50yrs.It’salsobeginningtogarneraninternationalreputation:producerssuchasChangyuarefastchangingtheperceptionofChinesewine,particularlywithitsCabernetGernischt(grownextensivelyinChinabutmostlikelyofEuropeanorigin)anditsIcewine.WesterninvestmentinjointventurescomesfromPernodRicard(DomaineHelanMountain),ChâteauLafite,Torres(Symphony)andMoët&Chandon,particularlyinShandongandNingxia;swankynew

US$5.5mwineryinNingxiajustunveiled.TopwinesarefromGraceV’ydsandSilverHeights.AlsolookforCataiandHuadong.

Likesomethingnew?SurpriseyourfriendswithaChineseCabernetGernischt.

IndiaTheIndianwineindustryissmall,witharoundonemillioncasesproducedfromaround60,000haofvinesconcentratedinNashik,nrMumbai,andincreasinglyfromKarnataka,nrGoa.Anincreasingmiddle-classtasteforwineandthestartofawine-focusedrestaurantsectoraredrivinggrowth.Consumptionisgrowingat30%/annum,whichmayspurforeigninvestmentasithasinChina,reducingthedominanceofthesubstandardandwidelyplantedSultanagrape.Moët&ChandonworkswithChateauIndage.OtherkeyproducersareReveilo,Indus,GroverandSula.SYRAHandCABSAUV,plusCHARDandSAUVBLproduce

thebestwines.

ChinahasmorelandavailabletoviticulturethanFrance.Watchout,Europe….

JapanJapanhasaproudwinemakinghistoryofnearly140yrs,largelyunknownintheoutsideworld.Koshuisstartingtochangethat;it’sanindigenousgrape,andishelpingtofocusproducersonquality,thoughitdoesn’tyethaveadefinitivestyleortasteprofile.ThededicationofAmerican-bornbutlong-timeJapanresidentErnestSinger,presidentoftheJapanWineProject(BordelaisDenisDubordieuconsults),ishelpingtotakeJapanesewinetotheWest.TheideaistomakewinethatmatchesthedelicacyofJapanesecuisine.TheregionofYamanashi,withnearly500ha,accountsforaround80%ofJapan’svines,withHokkaidotheothersignificantarea.Summerrain,highhumidityandacidic,v.fertilesoilsruleoutgrapevines

inmostareas.Hybridsstilldominate,inclBlackQueen,YamaSauvignonandMuscatBaileyA;morerecentplantingsofEuropeanvarietiesarehelpingtoraisequality.Buttheantiquatedlawthatallowsimportedwinetobeblendedwith5%domesticwineandthenlabelled“WineofJapan”holdsthecountryback.Japan’sbigbrewery-basedcompaniessuchasSuntory,SapporoandMercianproducearound75%ofthecountry’swine,butitissmallartisanproducerssuchasGrace,KatsunumaandTakahatathatarespurringonthe250+family-runwineries.Externalinfluenceisalsosignificant;BernardMagrezalsoconsultsinJapan.

Some30–50%ofIcewineonChineseshelvesissaidtobefake.Choosecarefully.

OLDRUSSIANEMPIREItmaytakeawhilebeforethelegacyofSovietindustrialproductionissupersededbyqualitywinemaking,butitishappening.Therearesuitable,ifrisky,climaticconditionsaroundtheBlackSea,wheremostex-Sovietvineyardsareplanted.Internationalconsultantsshapemodernstylesforlargercompanies;anewwaveofsmalllocalproducersisemerging.ExceptforGeorgia,allcountriesgiveprioritytointernationalgrapes,notalwaysjustified.Armeniamaybethenextexcitingplacetomakewine,whileRussianproducersareeyeingthe2014WinterOlympicsinSochiasanopportunitytopresenttheirwinestotheworld.

Theworld’soldestwinery(4100BC)hasbeendiscoveredinArmenia.

GeorgiaAuniqueviticulturalheritageisthetrumpcard.Georgiahasbeenmakingwineforover7,000yrs;clayvats(kwevris)forfermentingwineconstitutepartofitsnationalidentity,butarerapidlydisappearinginfavourofmodernequipment.Therearearound500indigenousgrapevarieties:redSAPERAVI(intense,structured;Russia’sfavouritered)andwhiteRKATSITELI(lively,refreshing)covermostofthev’yds.Therearefivedefinedareas,with70%producedinKakheti(Southeast).ThirtyleadingproducershaveformedanassociationthatinclGWS,Tbilvino,TelaviWineCellar,TelianiValley,AskaneliBrothers,ChâteauMukhrani,KindzmarauliCorporation,Pheasant’sTears,Badagoni,Shumi,Schuchmann.Acountrytowatch.

MoldovaMoldovamadefinewinesundertheTsars.Producersarefeelingmoreconfidentagain.Therearefourgeographicareas,andEuropeangrapesarewidelygrown,withgdresultsforCHARD,SAUVBL,PINOTGR,MERLOT,CABSAUV.Historicred

blendsRoşudePurcari(CabSauv,Merlot,MALBEC)andNegrudePurcari(CabSauv,RaraNeagră,SAPERAVI)arerevivedbyflagshipMoldovanwineryVinăriaPurcari.OtherqualityproducersinclAcorexWineHolding,VinăriaBostavan,ChâteauVartely,DionysosMereni,DKIntertrade,LionGri,Cricova(sparkling).

RussiaNascentwinecultureisunderthreat;wine,likeotheralcoholicbeverages,cannolongerbementionedinthepressoradvertised.Theindustrycontinuestofluctuatebetweenproducinganonymousstufffromimportedbulk,andgenuinewines,bothofwhicharemadeunderRussianlabels.Winerieswithqualityproductionarekeentowininternationalrecognitionratherthannurtureloyalconsumersathome.Mostv’ydsandwineriesareinthesouthwest;theKrasnodarregionisthebiggestproducer.Foreignconsultantslendexpertiseforcompaniesofnote:ChâteauleGrandVostock,Fanagoria,

KubanVino,Gai-Kodzor,TsimlianskiyeVina,Abrau-Durso,Lefkadia.Russian“garagistes”areanewphenomenon,butvolumesaretiny,qualityinconsistent.Europeanwhiteandredvarietiesarewidelyused:indigenousredKrasnostopandTsimlianskyareontherise.

UkraineWineisgrownaroundtheBlackSeaandontheborderwithHungary.Naturalconditionsarefavourable,butmostwinesaresimplesemi-sweetredstosuitlocaltastes.Odessamakesthemost,butCrimeahasgreaterqualitypotential.TraditionallythebestUkrainianwinesweremodelledonSherry,Port,MadeiraandChampagne.ShampanskoyeisanessentialofRussialife.HistoricproducersMassandra,Koktebel,MagarachandSolnechnayaDolinahavegdfortifieds.TryNovySvetandArtyomovskWineryfortraditional-methodsparkling,InkermanandOdessavinpromfordrywines.Namestowatch:Veles(Kolonist),GulievWines.Newassociationof

independentwinemakersisintroducinggdsmall-volumewines.

UnitedStates

(seealsoPrincipalvineyardareas/Principalviticulturalareas)

CALIFORNIACaliforniaremainsaworkinprogress.Regionalvariationscanbeenormous,partlyduetothejumbleofgrowingareasandweatherconditions,butalsothewhimofthewinemaker.Inextremecasesthiscanleadtosuper-concentrated,jammywineslikecertainNapaCabernets.Happily,however,moreandmorewinemakersseemtobepayingattentiontoterroirandvarietaltyperatherthantowinecritics.Youcanfindelegant,expressivewinesfromtheNorthCoast,espPinotNoirandChardonnay.OntheCentralCoastthesecondwaveofRhônistasareproducingsuppleyetpowerfulSyrah,GrenacheandwhiteRhôneswithaCaliforniaaccent.ElsewherevintnersarebringingSpanishvarietieslikeTempranilloandAlbariñointotheCaliforniamainstream.Henceanexplosionofalternatives:ofgrapevarieties,techniques,philosophiesandtastesthatmakeCaliforniatodayadifferentworldfromthatof20,15,10

yearsago–orforthatmatterlastyear.Agoldenageisopeningup.

PrincipalvineyardareasThereareover100ViticulturalAreas(AVAs)inCalifornia,someessentialtoknow,someinsignificant.Withinthemarescoresofsub-AVAs,whicharegenerallymoremeaningful.BelowarethekeyAVAsmentionedinthetext.AlexanderValley(AlexV)Sonoma.WarmregioninupperRRV.GdSauvBlnrriver;CabSauv,Zinonhillsides.AndersonValley(AndV)Mendocino.PacificfogandwindsfollowNavarroRiverinland;gdRies,Gewurz,PinotN;v.gd.Zinonbenchlands.ArroyoSecoMonterey.WarmAVA;gdCabSauv,Chard.Calistoga(Cal)Napa.NorthernendofNapaV.Redwineterritory.Carneros(Car)Napa,Sonoma.CoolAVAatnorthtipofSanFranciscoBay.GdPinotN,Chard;Merlot,Syrah,CabSauvonwarmersites.V.gdsparklingwine.

DryCreekValley(DryCV)Sonoma.OutstandingZin,gdSauvBl;gdhillsideCabSauvandZin.EdnaValley(EdnaV)SanLuisObispo.CoolPacificwinds;v.gd,,minerallyChard.HowellMtnNapa.ClassicNapaCabSauvfromsteephillsidev’yds.LivermoreValley(LivV)Alameda.Historicdistrictmostlyswallowedbysuburbsbutregainingsomestandingwithnew-waveCabSauvandChard.MtVeederNapa.Highmtnv’ydsforgdChard,CabSauv.NapaValley(NapaV)Napa.CabSauv,Merlot,CabFr.Looktosub-AVAsformeaningfulterroir-basedwines.Note:NapaVisanareawithinNapa.Oakville(Oak)Napa.PrimeCabSauvterritory.PasoRobles(PRob)SanLuisObispo.ExcellentZin,Rhônevarietals;gdCabSauv.RedHillsLakeCounty.PromisingforCabSauv,Zin.

RedwoodValleyMendocino.Warmerinlandregion;gdZin,CabSauv,SauvBl.RussianRiverValley(RRV)Sonoma.Pacificfoglingers;PinotN,Chard,gdZinonbenchland.Rutherford(Ruth)Napa.OutstandingCabSauv,esphillsidev’yds.SaintHelenaNapa.LovelybalancedCabSauv.SantaLuciaHighlands(SantaLH)Monterey.HigherelevationwithgdPinotN,Syrah,Rhônes.SantaMariaValley(SantaMV)SantaBarbara.Coastalcool;gdPinotN,ChardandViognier.StaRitaHills(StaRH)SantaBarbara.ExcellentPinotN;forlegalreasonscallsitselfStaratherthanSanta.SantaYnez(SantaY)SantaBarbara.Rhônes,Chard,SauvBlthebestbet.SonomaCoast(SonCoast)Sonoma.V.coolclimate;edgyPinotN.SonomaValley(SonV)Son.GdChard,v.gdZin;excellentCabSauvfromSonomaMountain(SonMtn)sub-AVA.NoteSonomaV

isareawithinSon.SpringMtnNapa.TerrificCabSauv;v.gdSauvBl.StagsLeap(StagsL)Napa.ClassicCabSauv;v.gdMerlot.

RecentvintagesBecauseofthediversityandsizeoftheCaliforniawine-growingregionsitisalmostimpossibletoproduceanoff-the-pegvintagereportforthestate.Keepingthatinmind,thefollowingassessmentscanbeusefulinageneralway.2012Verypromising;moderateheat;dryatharvest;couldbe

outstanding.2011Anotherdifficultyear,below-averagecrop.Similarweather

to2010,butburstofheatduringharvesthelpedbringsugaruptobalanceacidity.Thosewhopickedlaterreportedverygoodquality–CabSauv,PinotN.

2010Averydifficultyear,coolandwet.PickingcontinuedintoNovember.Butsomeoutstandingbottlings,espRhônevarietiesandZin.

2009Asuperbgrowingseason,moderatetemperatures.Bothreds

andwhitesshowgoodbalanceandageingpotential.2008Unevenquality.Acidlevelslow;someareasgrapesmaynot

haveripened.2007Rain;resultsmixed,especiallyforCabSauv.2006 Lookinggood,especiallyPinotNandChard.CabSauv

improvingwithage.Overall,above-average.2005CabSauvespeciallygoodearlyonbutfadingfast.2004 Someoftheearlypromisehasfaded.Winesforshort-term

consumption.2003Adifficultyearallaround.Overall,spotty.2002 Thegrowingseasonwascool,andqualitysuperior.

AbreuVineyardsNapaV★★★0507091011SuppleCABSAUVwithapowerfulopeningandalong,layeredfinish.Gdcellarchoice.

AcaciaCar★★★AlwaysgdandsometimesoutstandingCHARD

andPINOTNfromsinglev’ydsinNapaCarneros.AlsoasuperVIOGNIER.

AcornVineyardsRRV★★→★★★NewcomerhasawaywithZIN,esptheAlegriaV’ydHeritageVinesbottling:asilky,seductivewinewithalongfinish.

AlanteStHelena★★★Low-production,outstandingCABSAUVfromasinglev’yd.Gdstructurewithlayeredfinish;capableoflongageing.

AlbanVineyardsEdnaV★★→★★★AnoriginalriderwiththeRhôneRangers,stilloutinfrontoftherest.TopwinesareVIOGNIER,GRENACHE.

AlmaRosaStaRH★★★RichardSanford,aCentralCoastPINOTNmaster,hasmovedontonewgroundwithorganicv’ydsandpalate-pleasingPinotNthatisbetterthanever.V.gdrosé,CHARD.

AmericanViticulturalAreasFederalregulationsonappellationoforiginintheUSAwereapprovedin1977.Therearetwocategories.FirstisastraightforwardpoliticalAVA,whichincludesanentirestate,ie.California,Washington,Oregonandsoon.Individualcountiescanalsobeused,ie.SantaBarbaraorSonoma.Whenthecountydesignationisused,allgrapesmustcomefromthatcounty.Thesecondcategoryisageographicaldesignation,suchasNapaVorWillVwithinthestate.TheseAVAsaresupposedtobebasedonsimilarityofsoils,weather,etc.Inpractice,theytendtobeinclusiveratherthanexclusive.WithintheseAVAstherecanbefurthersub-appellations,eg.theNapaVAVAcontainsRuth,StagsLandothers.Whenthesegeographicaldesignationsareused,allgrapesmustcomefromthatregion.Aproducerwhohasmettheregulatorystandardscanchooseapurelypoliticallisting,suchasNapa,orageographicallisting,

suchasNapaV.

AlphaOmegaNapaV★★★Newsingle-v’ydspecialist.Era,aCABSAUV-basedblend,offersengagingfruitwithinabalancedandelegantframe;ProprietaryRedalsov.gd;SAUVBLandCHARDwellworthtrying.

AltamuraVineyardsNapaV★★★010203040506080910CABSAUVbuilttolast.Bepatientanditwillshowgddepthandlong,echoingflavours.

AmadorFoothillsWinerySierraF’hills★★→★★★ZINisago-to;SAUVBLhasbrightminerality.RhônevarietiesundertheKatie’sCôtelabelarecrowd-pleasers.

AmBethEstatePRob★★★OutstandingRhônevarieties,dry-farmedbiodynamicv’yds.LookespforwhiteblendPriscus,andredMajestes.

AncientOaksCellarsSon★★→★★★DeliciousestatePINOTNbackedbybrilliantCHARD.

AndrewMurraySantaB★★→★★★It’sRhônesaroundtheclockhere;thehitskeepcoming.TheSYRAHisafavouritebutdon’toverlooktheVIOGNIERandROUSSANNE.

AnticaNapaV★★★0910IttookafewyrstosortoutPieroAntinori’s(seeItaly)Napav’yds,butthewinesareatlastmeetingexpectations,withabrightandbalancedCABSAUVandalovely,roundedCHARD.

AraujoNapaV★★★★010203040506080910Massiveandlong-lastingCABSAUVfromhistoricEiselev’yd.

AuBonClimatSantaB★★★→★★★★JimClendenenhasbeenaleaderinestablishingtheCentralCoaststylefortoastyCHARDandrichPINOTN;alsolight-heartedPINOTBL.VitaNovalabelforBordeauxvarieties,PodereOlivosforItalianates.SeeQUPÉ.

BabcockVineyardsSantaY★★★CentralCoastpacesettersourcesoutstandiingPIINOTNandv.gdCHARDandSAUVBLfromcool-climatev’yds.

BarnettVineyardsNapaV★★★CarnerosCHARDisacreamytreat,asisthespicyTinaMariaPINOTNfromtheRRV.AlsolookfortheSpringMtnMERLOT.

BeaulieuVineyardNapaV★★→★★★05070910Youmightsay“Thanksforthememory”tothisonce-topestate;GeorgesdeLatourPrivateResCABSAUVcanstillholdupitshead.BudgetwinesundertheBeaulieuCoastlabelareacceptable.

Bella★★→★★★09ZINspecialistscoutsSonomav’ydsforsuperbbottlings,espTheBelleCanyonZin,featuringquintessentialDryCVbramblyfruit.

BenzigerFamilyWinerySonV★★→★★★Bestbetsherearethebiodynamicallyfarmedestatewines,espCABSAUV,MERLOTandSAUVBL.

BeringerBlassNapa★→★★★(CABSAUV)010205070910Historicwinery’ssingle-v’ydCabSauvRes’saremassive,butareworthyofageing.Velvety,powerfulHowellMtnMERLOTisv.gd.Founder’sEstategdbargainline.

BernardusMont★★→★★★07080910TheMarinusredBordeauxblendissuperb,gdforshort-termageingbutdeliciousasayoungster.GdSAUVBL,CHARD.

BodegasPasoRoblesPRob★★→★★★AdeliciousglassofSpainontheCentralCoast,inclDonnaBlanca,acharmingGARNACHABLANCA/MALVASIABiancablend;VacaNegra,TEMPRANILLO/MOURVÈDREblend.

Therewere190,683acresofwinegrapesinFresnoCountyin2011:4xthatofNapa.

BoegerCentralV★★Gd-valueelbow-benders,fineforpicnicordinner.BestisZIN.

BogleVineyardsCentralV★→★★Consistentlygdandsometimesv.gdeverydaybudgetwines.OldVineZINleadstheway.

BokischLodi★★→★★★AleaderinCalifornia’sSpanishrevival,withv.gdTEMPRANILLObackedbyoutstandingGARNACHAandALBARIÑO.

BonnyDoonMont★★★→★★★★08(LeCigareVolant)SinceterroiristRandallGrahmsoldhismass-marketbudgetbrandstoconcentrateonbiodynamicsinglev’yds,therehasbeenasharpimprovement.FlagshipLeCigareVolanthasmovedinto★★★★territory.VinGrisdeCigareoneofCalifornia’stoprosés.

BonterraSeeFETZER.BourassaNapaV★★★→★★★★060708091011

Symphony,oneofNapa’sbestCABSAUVs,ismadefromcoolv’ydsinthesouthofthevalley.Alsoav.gdCABFR.

BroncoWineCompanyFoundedbyFredFranzia,nephewofthelateErnestGALLO.Franziauseslow-costCentralValleygrapesforhisfamousCharlesShawTwo-BuckChuck.OtherlabelsinclNapaCreekandNapaRidge.Qualityisnotthepoint:Franziaissellingwineasapopularbeverage.

BuehlerNapa★★★0507091011BuehlerconsistentlydeliversbalancedCABSAUVinapleasingbramblystylewithgdstructure.AlsolookforanoutstandingZINfromNapagrapesandav.gdCHARDfromRRVfruit.

BurgessCellarsNapaV★★★(CABSAUV)0305070910Powerfulandage-worthyCabSauvfromHowellMtngrapes.

NapaVwineindustrycontributesanestimated$50bn/annumtotheUSeconomy.

CafaroCellarsNapaV★★★Alwaysreliable,sometimesoutstandingCABSAUV.RecentMERLOTShavebeenexcellent.

CainCellarsNapaV★★★0507091011CainFive,asuppleandlayeredblendofthefiveBordeauxredsfromSpringMtngrapes,isattheheadoftheclass.Consistentandage-worthy.

CakebreadNapaV★★★→★★★★03050607091011CABSAUV,structuredforageingbutdeliciousafterfourorfiveyearsinthebottle,isagoldstandard.SAUVBLranksamongthebest;CHARDalsov.gd.

Calera★★★★0708091011JoshJensen,whofellinlovewithPINOTNwhileatOxford,offersanoutstandingportfolioofPinotN,espReed,Selleck;alsointense,floweryVIOGNIERandarareALIGOTÉ.

CameronHughesNCoast★★→★★★SmalllotsofNorthCoastwinesofvaryingquality;CABSAUVcanbeexcellent,espLot285Rutherford.V.gdCHARD.

CarterCellarsNapaV★★★07091011It’sallaboutsingle-v’ydCABSAUV,beginningwithoutstandingRevilloV’yd

bottling.AlsolookforHossfeldV’ydsRedBlend.CassPRob★★→★★★Theyjustkeepcoming.Yetanother

CentralCoastspecialistinRhônevarietiesgettingitright.SYRAHissuperb,withdeep,chocolate/coffeetonesandalongfinish.

CaymusNapaV★★★→★★★★9900010506070910SpecialSelectionCABSAUVisaNapaicon,consistentlyoneofCalifornia’smostformidable:rich,intense,slowtomature.TheregularNapabottlingisnoslouch.V.gdCHARDundertheMerSoleilbrandfromMontereygrapes.Conundrum,asecondlabel,offersgdvalue.

CejaVineyardsNapa★★→★★★070910StylishNapaCABSAUV;v.gdCarnerosCHARD.

CesarToxquiCellarsMend★★★ToxquicamenorthfromMexicowhenhewas16,andlandedhisfirstjobatFETZER.HemakessuperbPINOTNfromorganicv’ydsinLakeand

Mendocinocounties.ChaloneMont★★★HistoricMontereymtnestate:intensePINOT

N,minerallyCHARD.ChappelletNapaV★★★→★★★★03050607080910

Pioneer(1969)onPritchardHill,StHelena.SignaturelabelCABSAUViscapableofseriousageing;alsoav.gdCHARD,CABFRandMERLOT:gdCHENINBL.ChappelletownsSonoma-Loeb,specializinginChardandPINOTNfromCarnerosandtheRRV.

CharlesKrugNapaV★★→★★★HistoricallyimportantwineryenjoyingacomebackledbyasuppleandelegantCABSAUV;SAUVBLisexcellent.

ChateauMontelenaNapaV★★★→★★★★(CHARD)08091011(CABSAUV)0103050607091011BalancedandsuppleCabSauvfordrinkingyoungorputtingawayforatleastadecade.TheChardisalsoakeeper.

ChateauStJeanSon★★→★★★CinqCépages,ablendoffive

Bordeauxredvarieties,istopcardhere;gdSAUVBLandCHARD.ChimneyRockStagsL★★★→★★★★030507091011An

oftenunderratedproducerofbalanced,age-worthyCABSAUV.Clark-ClaudenNapaV★★★→★★★★05070910

OutstandingCABSAUV:focusedfruit,lastingwraparoundflavours.Alsov.gdSAUVBL.Muchunderratedproducer.

ClayhousePRob★★→★★★Old-vinePETITESIRAHrestoresfaithinthatvariety.Ithasitall:lovelyblack-cherry,chocolateandblackpeppertonesandalongfinish.More,please.AlsolookforAdobe,adeliciouswhiteblend.

CliffLedeStagsL★★★070910OftenoverlookedStagsLCABSAUV,featuringleanminerality;builttoagefor10-15yrs.

ClosduBoisSon★★→★★★BriarcrestCABSAUVandCalcaireCHARDcanbev.gd.Restofline-uparequaffableeverydaywines.Noproblemthere.

ClosduValNapaV★★★0507091011Consistently

outstandingCABSAUVs,neveroverstatedinstyle,andmuchunderrated.ChardisadelightandaSÉM/SAUVBLblendcalledAriadneisacharmer.

CobbWinesSonCoast★★★Cool-climatePINOTN,CHARD:crispacidity,restrainedfruit.

ConnCreekNapaV★★★03050607091011CABSAUVwithgdstructure,sourcedfromseveralNapaVv’yds.Agdcandidateforthecellar.

Constellation★→★★★OwnswineriesinCalifornia,NY,WashingtonState,Canada,Chile,AustraliaandNZ.Produces90+millioncases/yr,theworld’sbiggestwinecompany?Onceabottom-feeder,nowgoingforthetop,inclROBERTMONDAVI,FRANCISCANV’YD,Estancia,MtVeeder,RAVENSWOOD,Simi,amongothers.

CorisonNapaV★★★★95969799000102050607091011CathyCorisonisanationaltreasure.WhilemanyinNapaV

followthe$irencallofpowerhousewinesforbigscoresandlittlepleasure,Corisoncontinuestomakeflavoursome,age-worthyCabSauv.TopchoiceisthelusciousandvelvetyKronosV’yd.

CuvaisonNapaV★★★01030507091011SuperbMtVeederCAB;v.gdCHARD,SYRAH.

DarioushNapaV★★★0607091011OutstandingNapaCABSAUVwithaneyeonBordeaux.SilkySignatureCabSauvhasdepthandpower.VIOGNIERisatreat.

DasheCellarsDryCV★★→★★★AhappyobsessionwithDryCVZIN,withsingle-v’ydbottlingscapturingtheclassicbramblyDryCVstyle.

DavidBruceSantaCzMts★★★Legendarymtnestateisstillontopofthegamewithpowerful,long-lastingCHARDandsuperbPINOTN.

DavisBynumSon★★★V.gdsingle-v’ydPINOTNfromRRV;

leanyetsilkyCHARD.Dehlinger★★★★TomDehlingermaintainshisstandingasaZIN

master,makingconsistentlyfour-starwinesfromestateRRVv’yd.Alsov.gdCHARDandSYRAH.

DelicatoVineyards★→★★Long-time(eightgenerations)winefamilyhasmovedbeyondjugwinestomoreupscalebottlingsfromv’ydsinNapa,Monterey,Lodi.PopularinnovationsaretheBotawines:premiumvarietiesinthree-litreboxes.

DiamondCreekNapaV★★★★95990001030607091011AustereCABSAUVfromhillsidev’ydsonDiamondMtn–GravellyMeadow,VolcanicHill,RedBlockTerrace.Winesagebeautifully.OneofNapa’sjewels,overshadowedinrecentyearsbysomeofNapa’smoreglitzycultCabs.

NewMexico’sfirstwineryprecededCalifornia’sby150years.

DomaineCarnerosCar★★★→★★★★VintageBlancdeBlancsLaRêveconsistentlyratesasoneofthebestsparklersinthestate;alsoav.gdNVbubblyrosé.AnoutstandingrangeofPINOTNandCHARDledbyTheFamousGatePinot.

DomaineChandonNapaV★★→★★★TopbubblyistheNVResEtoilé;alsov.gdrosésparkler.StillwinesinclgdCarnerosPINOTN.

DominusEstateNapaV★★★★9799010205060708091011RedBordeauxblendisoneofNapa’sgreattreasures.Don’trushit;thewineamplyrepayscellartimewithsupplelayersofintenseflavoursandalong,wraparoundfinish.

Donkey&Goat★★★→★★★★OneofseveralartisanurbanwineriesthathavesprungupintheSanFranciscoBayarea,sourcinggrapesfromselectedv’yds.CurrentfavouriteisadeliciousGRENACHEfromElDoradoAVAinSierraF’hills.

CuvéedowntownUrbanmicrobrewerieshavebeenaroundforawhile;nowwehaveurbanwineries.Theymakewinewherethecustomersare–inthecity–andit’srelativelyeasytobringgrapesin.TopurbanwineriesinclBluxomeandDogpatchinSanFrancisco,ADonkeyandGoatinBerkeley,CityWineryinManhattanandRedHookWineryinBrooklyn.

DryCreekVineyardDryCV★★→★★★WineryhasbeenleaderinHeritageZINmovement:v.impressiveline-upofsingle-v’ydbottlings.V.gdSAUVBL,CHENINBL.

DuckhornVineyardsNapaV★★★→★★★★Knownfordark,tannic,plummy-ripesingle-v’ydMERLOTs(espThreePalms)andCABSAUV-basedHowellMtnbottling.AlsoGoldenEyePINOTN,madeinarobuststyleatanAndersonVwinery.

DunnVineyardsHowellMtn★★★★9195979901030607091011RandyDunnmakessuperbandintenseCabSauvfromHowellMtnestatethatagesmagnificently;morerestrainedbottlingsfromvalleyfloorforshort-termdrinking.OneoffewNapaVwinemakerstoresistthestampedetojammy,lushwinestocurrycritics’favour.

Dutton-Goldfield★★★→★★★★Exceptionalterroir-basedPINOTNandCHARDfromSonCoastandRRVv’yds.WinesaremodernCaliforniaclassics.

EaglesTraceNapaV★★★040506070910Long-timeNapagrowerproducingterroir-drivenwines.TopoflineisLatitude38,anage-worthyCABSAUV-basedhomagetoBordeaux.AlsoagdMERLOT.

EberleSanLO★★GdrangeofRhônesledbySteinbeckv’ydSYRAH;v.gdVIOGNIER,solidCABSAUV.RoséofSyrahacharmingaddition.

EdnaValleyVineyardEdnaV★★★Lovelyandtrue-to-varietySAUVBLforopeners,thencrispCHARDwithgeneroustropicalfruit.FinishwithimpressiveSYRAH.

ElkeVineyardsAndV★★→★★★MaryElkemakesanelegantandsilkyPINOTNintheDiamondseries,andabeginner’sfruit-forwardwineundertheMaryElkelabel.

ElyseVineyardsNapaV★★★0508091011Elysehasallbasescovered,startingwithsmalllotsofsingle-v’ydCABSAUVshowingbrightfruitwithlayeredflavoursandexcellentageingpotential.V.gdold-vineZIN.

EnvyCellarsNapaV★★★→★★★★SuperstarwinemakerNilsVenge,knownforCABSAUV,hasturnedtoPETITESIRAHwithaVacaMtnbottling:darkfruitbalancedwithpepperyspice.AdeliciousSAUVBLandbrightroséarenew.

FarNienteNapaV★★★030507091011Thegamehereisopulent,sometimesover-the-topCABSAUV,andfull-bodiedand

richCHARDfromestategrapes.FetzerVineyardsMend★★→★★★Aleaderin

organic/sustainableviticulture.Makesconsistent-valuewinesfromleastexpensiverange(Sundial,ValleyOaks)tobrilliantReswines.AlsoownsBONTERRAv’yds(allorganicgrapes):Roussanne,Marsannearestars.

FicklinVineyardsMadera★★★Whileothersweetwineproducershaverunforcover,theFicklinfamilyhascontinuedtomakeimpressiveandtastyfortifiedsfromclassicPortuguesevarieties.Alsoalineoftablewines,inclaTOURIGArosé.

FirestoneSantaY★★→★★★ReliableCentralCoastproducerkeepsthequalitybarhighwithasplendidSAUVBLandapalate-pleasingoff-dryRies.Alsoagdrosé.TopofthelineisTheAmbassador,aredMERITAGEblend.

FloraSpringsWineCoNapaV★★★→★★★★Asometimes-overlookedNapagem,esptheSignatureseries,whichincludes

Trilogy,anamazingCABSAUV-basedjewelfromhillsidev’yds;Soliloquy,av.gdSAUVBLfromOakvilleAVAandafineCHARD.

FlowersVineyard&Winery★★★SonCoastpioneer;1stCHARDplantedin1991,Flowersnowfarmsorganically:wonpraiseforintensecoastalPINOTNandChard.

FoppianoSon★★→★★★OneofCalifornia’sgrandoldwinefamilies–established1896.OutstandingZINyrin,yrout.Alsoleadsinrich,firmlystructuredPETITESIRAH,betterknownas“pettysir”amongtherearguard.AlsoappealingCABSAUV,livelySAUVBLandgdestaterosé.

FormanVineyardNapaV★★★★0001030507091011RicForman,adedicated(somemightsay“fanatical”)terroirist,makeselegant,age-worthyCABSAUV-basedwinesfromhillsidev’yds.Alsov.gdCHARD.

FranciscanVineyardNapaV★★→★★★Magnificant,aredBordeauxblend,isconsistentlyexcellent;CuvéeSauvage

CHARDalsoquitegd.FreemanRRV★★★ConcentratesonPINOTNandCHARDfrom

cool-climateSonCoastandRRV,withanodtoBurgundy.TheRyoFuChard(coolbreezeinJapanese)isamazing.PinotNbottlingshighontheA-list,esptheKeeferRanch.

FreemarkAbbeyNapaV★★★→★★★★StylishCabSauvworthyofcellartimefromoften-underratedclassicproducer.Espsingle-v’ydSycamore,Boschebottlings.

FreestoneSonCoast★★★→★★★★IntensebutbalancedCHARD,PINOTNfromvinesonlyafewmilesfromthePacific–showgdstructure,longfinish,esptheChard.

Frog’sLeapRuth★★★→★★★★0102030507091011(CABSAUV)JohnWilliams,aleaderinorganic/biodynamicmovement,saysitallstartsinthev’yd.TheCabSauvissuppleandbalanced,capableofageing;atoastyCHARD,azestyZINandalean,minerallySauvBlareallexcellent.

Gallo,E&J★→★★California’sbiggestwineryisaneasytarget,butGallohasdonemoretoopenuptheAmericanpalatetowinethananyotherwinery.Its1960sHeartyBurgundywasgroundbreaking.Continuesbasiccommoditywines,buthascreatedlineofregionalvarieties:Anapauma,Marcellina,TurningLeafandmore,allwinesofmodestqualityperhapsbutpredictableandaffordable.

E&JGallostarteditsfamilywineryin1933,witha$5,000borrowedinvestment.

GalloSonomaSon★→★★★CoastaloutpostofCentralValleygiantsourcesgrapesfromseveralSonomav’yds.CABSAUVcanbev.gd,espthesingle-v’ydCHARD.NewlineofGinaGallosignaturewinesareconsistentlythree-star.

GaryFarrellSon★★★V.gdtoexcellentPINOTNandCHARDfromcool-climatev’yds.GdZINandasplendidSYRAH.

GloriaFerrerCar★★BuiltbySpain’sFreixenetforsparklingwine,nowproducingspicyCHARDandbright,silkyPINOTNandothervarietals,allfromCarnerosfruit.Bubblyhasdevelopedasweettooth.

GraceFamilyVineyardNapaV★★★★0103050607091011StunningCABSAUVforlongageing.Oneofthefewcultwinesthatmightactuallybeworththeprice.

GreenwoodRidgeAndV★★EstatePINOTNmadeinafleshystyleisv.gd.Floraloff-dryRIESisamarvellousapéritif;gdZIN.

GrgichHillsCellarsNapaV★★★→★★★★050708091011OutstandingbiodynamicCABSAUV;supple,age-worthyCHARD.SAUV(FUMÉ)BLandrusticZINworthalook.

GrothVineyardsOak★★★★97990001050607091011EstateCABSAUVofferssupple,wraparoundflavours,structuredforageing.ResCabSauvmoretightlywound.ExcellentCHARDandSAUVBL.

GustafsonFamilyEstatesDryCV★★→★★★TerrificSYRAH,temptingPETITESIRAH,butwatchfortheZINanddon’toverlooktheSAUVBL.Roséisasuperelbow-bender.

HallNapaV★★★★0708091011NapaCABSAUVisasuperb,withfull-palatelayersofflavour.AstunningDiamondMtnCabSauvandav.gdStHelenaBergfeldCabSauvareofferedinthesmall-lotArtisanseries.MinerallySAUVBLisdelicious.

HalterRanch★★→★★★Ancestor,aredblendofBordeauxvarietiesplusSYRAH,isoutstanding.CôtesduPaso(rw)v.gd.GdZIN.

HandleyCellarsAndV★★★ExcellentCHARD,GEWURZ,PINOTN.V.gdSAUVBL,ChardfromDryCV;sparklingwinecanplaywithCalifornia’sbest,espthebubblyrosé.

HannaWinery★★★ASonomaclassicwithanoutstandingSAUVBLandPINOTNfromRRV.CABSAUVandMERLOTfromAlexVv’ydsaresuperb.Newroséisatreat.

HanzellSonomaV★★★★Historicartisanproducerofoutstandingandterroir-drivenCHARDandPinotNfromestatevines.Bothrepayafewyrs’cellartime.DeservestoberankedwiththebestofCalifornia.

HarlanEstateNapaV★★★★0607091011Concentrated,sleekcultCABSAUVfromperfectionistestatecommandingluxuryprices.HarlanownsMeadowoodClub.

HdVWinesCar★★★★Fine,complexChardwithamineraledgefromgrowerLarryHyde’sv’ydinconjunctionwithAubertdeVillaineofDRC(seeFrance).Alsoav.gdCABSAUVandSYRAHfromHyde’sv’yd.

HeitzCellarNapaV★★★01030507091011History-making,deeplyflavoured,mintyCABSAUVfromMartha’sV’yd.Martha’sfansfeelnewerbottlingsofBellaOaksandTrailsideV’ydcan’tmatchtheearlyMartha.NowSAUVBLANC,too.

HellerEstateMont★★★LayeredandsuppleCabSauvisv.gd,

asisthecharmingCHENINBLandPINOTN.Recentadditionofroséiswelcome.

HessCollection,TheNapaV★★★CABSAUVfromMtVeederestatev’ydhitsanewqualitylevel,esptheexceptional19BlockCuvée,ablockbusterwithgdmanners;LakeCountySAUVBLisv.gd;CHARDcrispandbright;HessSelectlabelv.gdbudgetwines.Fabulousartgallery.

HowellattheMoonHowellMtn★★★060708091011BehindthepainfulpunisaterrificCABSAUV:bramblyfruitwithanelegantstructureandagoodreflectionofHowellMtnterroir.CabSauvisallitdoesanditdoesitright.

InglenookOakFrancisFordCoppolaisrevivinghistoricwineryandhasvowedtomakegreatCABSAUVhere.

IronHorseVineyardsSon★★★→★★★★Joy,anewtop-of-the-lineNVbubbly,isamazing.Bottledinmagnumwith10-15yrsontheleesitcombineseleganceandpower.WeddingCuvée

alsoawinningsparkler.V.gdCHARDandPINOTN;lookfortheCorralV’ydChardandforarefreshingglass,theunoakedChard.

JordanAlexV★★★★(CABSAUV)98990001020507091011ConsistentlybalancedandelegantwinesfromshowcaseAlexVestate.TheCabSauvisanhomagetoBordeaux–anditlasts.MinerallyanddeliciousCHARDisdittotoBurgundy.

JosephPhelpsNapaV★★★★(Insignia)9799000103050607080910AtrueNapa“firstgrowth”.PhelpsCABSAUV,espInsigniaandBackus,arealwaysnrthetop,capableoflongageing.OvationChardisv.gd.

JosephSwanSon★★★Long-timeRRVproducerofintenseold-vineZINandbottlingsofsingle-v’ydPINOTN.OftenoverlookedRhônevarietiesalsov.gd,esptheROUSSANNE/MARSANNEblendfromSaralee’sv’yd.

JVineyardsSon★★★Outstandingbubbly:creamyBrut,zesty

BrutRosé,lusciouslate-disgorgedVintage.GdPINOTN,CHARD,refreshingVIOGNIER.“J”isfor“Jordan”.

Kendall-Jackson★★→★★★Legendarymarket-drivenCHARD,CABSAUV.EvenmorenoteworthyfordevelopingadiversityofwineriesundertheumbrellaofArtisans&Estates(seeSTONESTREET).

Californiasprawlisnotanuglysuburbbutapruningsystem.

KenefickRanchNapaV★★→★★★Agdportfoliofromagrower-turned-vintnerinCalistoga,northernNapa.PickettRoadRedisasuppleBordeauxblendbasedonMERLOT.PickettRoadWhiteblend–VIOGNIERandGRENACHEBLANC–isalsov.gd.

KentRasmussenWineryCar★★★→★★★★OutstandingCarneroswinesformorethanaquarter-century.Let’shopehehasanother25yrstogo.LookespfortheminerallyCHARDandthefull-palatelushnessofthePINOTN.Ramsayisanalternative

labelforsmallparcels.KenwoodVineyardsSon★★→★★★(JackLondonCABSAUV)

0103050708091011Consistentlygdqualityatfairprices.TheJackLondonCabSauvisthehighpoint.Alsov.gdArtistSeriesCabSauv.Severalv.gdbottlingsofZINandagulpable,deliciousSAUVBL.

KistlerVineyardsRRV★★★Specialistincool-climateSonCountyCHARD,PINOTN;overadozenv’yd-designatedwinesinanygivenyr.Winesaremuchindemand.

KonsgaardNapa★★★★SeveralbottlingsofCHARD,inclwell-regardedJudgeV’yd.CABSAUVandSYRAHv.gd.RecentlyaddedadeliciousALBARIÑO.

Korbel★→★★LargestUSproducerofclassic-methodfizz,focusonfruitflavours.RecentlyaddedanorganicbottlingandagdBrutRosé.Foryournextpicnic.

Ladera★★★050708091011Luscious,balancedCABSAUV

fromestatev’yds,plusamoreaccessibleNapaValleyCabSauv-basedblend.Alsov.gdMALBECandgdSAUVBL.EstateCabakeeper.

LambornFamilyVineyardsHowellMtn★★★→★★★★SuperstarwinemakerHeidiBarrettmakesintense,age-worthyCABSAUVandfull-flavouredZINfromestatev’yd.

LandmarkSonV★★→★★★CHARDfromtheBienNacidoV’ydinSantaMVhasdeepfruitflavours;lookalsoforDetourPINOTNfromSonCoastgrapes.OutstandingGRENACHEandanewestaterosé.

Lang&ReedNapaV★★★BrightLoire-styleCABFR.Whydon’tmoreCaliforniansdothis?NorthCoastbottlingadded,madeinapleasingfruit-forwardstyle.

LarkmeadNapaV★★→★★★HistoricCalistogaestatebeingrevived,offeringoutstandingCabSauv,suppleandbalanced,andabright,deliciousSAUVBL.

LaurelGlenSonV★★★★010305060910Formorethan30yrsPatrickCampbellmadesomeofCalifornia’sbestCABSAUV,supple,balanced,age-worthy,fromasteepv’ydonSonMtn.Tooearlytotellifnewownerswillkeepstandardshigh.

Lohr,J★★→★★★OneofCalifornia’sunderratedtreasures.ExcellentCABSAUVandaseriesofMERITAGEredwinesarefirst-rate,madechieflyfromPRobfruit.Cypressisgdbudgetline.

LongMeadowNapaV★★★DestinationwineryinNapa:restaurantandworkingfarmhasn’thurtthewines.Suppleandage-worthyCABSAUV;livelyGraves-styleSAUVBL.RanchHouseRedisatrueelbow-bender.V’ydisorganicallyfarmed.

LouisMMartiniNapa★★★Napatreasure;abrilliantcomebacksince2002Gallobuyout.Gallotookahands-offapproach,givingMikeMartinithetoolsandlettinghimworkwiththegreatCABSAUVandZINv’ydsthefamilyhadownedfordecades.LookespforCabSauvfromMonteRossoandAlexV.

LucasLodi★★→★★★TerrificclassicLodiold-vineZIN;v.gdVIOGNIER,CHARD;tastyrosé.

L’Uvaggio★★→★★★ItalianspecialistofferingexcellentBARBERA;lookforVERMENTINOfromLodi,splendidroséreminiscentofnorthernSpain.Can’tgowronghere.

McIntireVineyardsSantaLH★★→★★★McIntirefamily,long-timegrowers,nowmaketheirownwinesanddoafinejob.PINOTNoffersrichcherryfruitbackedbygdacidity.BrilliantCHARD,withdeepmineralityandlongfinish.

MacPhailSon★★★IntenseandtightlywoundPINOTN,gdCHARDandarefreshingPinotNroséfromSonCoast.

MarimarTorresEstateRRV★★★→★★★★SeveralbottlingsofCHARDandPINOTNfromDonMiguelestateinGreenValley.Chardiscomplex,ages5yrs.AceroChardisunoaked,alovelyexpressionofChardfruit.PinotNfromDoñaMargaritav’ydnroceanisintense.LookalsoforagdSYRAH/TEMPRANILLO

blendandazestyALBARIÑO/Chardblend.V’ydsnowfarmedorganicallyandmovingtowardsbiodynamics.

SomethingforthelaydeezSweetwines,inclMOSCATO,areflavouroftheyearintheUSA:salestripledin2011andarestillrising.Inthe1950s,sweetwinesheld90%oftheUSmarket,buthaddeclinedto2%bytheendofthecentury.Newdrinkersinparticular,inclwomenand“Millennials”(GenerationY),whoarerediscoveringthesewines.AsoneNapamarketingperson,whoaskedtoremainnameless,putit:“WhyisitsurprisingthatMillennials,whodrinkCokeforbreakfast,wouldlikesweetwine?”

MayacamasVineyardsMtVeeder★★★VeteranBobTraversmakesoutstandingCabSauvfromestatevines,capableoflong

ageing;rich,edgyCHARD,v.gdSAUVBL.MeritageBasicallyaBordeauxblend,redorwhite.Thetermwas

inventedforCaliforniabuthasspread.It’satrademark,andusershavetobelongtoTheMeritageAlliance.It’ssupposedtorhymewith“heritage”(butoftendoesn’t).

MerryEdwardsRRV★★★★SalutetoBurgundywithCaliforniaattitude.PINOTNisrounded,layeredwithflavourandedgedwithdarkspice.AsabonusthereisalovelySAUVBL.MerryEdwards,whowasvotedintotheVintnersHallofFamein2012,isanationaltreasure.

MerryvaleNapaV★★★ProfileisabalancedandlusciousCABSAUV,backedbySilhouette,arichCHARD;alsoagdMERLOTandv.gdPINOTN.Fruit-forwardlineforearlydrinkingundertheStarmontlabel.

MilanoMend★★→★★★ArtisanproducerofZIN,CABSAUV,worthseekingout.RarebottlingofCharbonoisv.gd.Several

blendedredsmadeinapleasingrusticstyle,inclBigassRedandHoplandCuvée,unusualblendofCabSauv/PINOTN.

MinerFamilyVineyardsOak★★★PowerfulCABSAUV-basedredswithgdageingpotential.LookespfortheIconbottling,ablendofBordeauxvarieties.

MirafloresSierraF’hills★★★SYRAHandZINfromElDoradoCountyarev.gd,withbright,engagingfruit.VIOGNIER,PINOTGRIGIOarealsov.gdwithexcellentvarietaltype.First-rateroséfromBARBERA.

Nospecificagerequirementfordesignation“oldvines”,inCaliforniaorelsewhere.

Miura★★→★★★MasterSommelierEmmanuelKemijimakesseveralsingle-v’ydwines;espPisoniPINOTNfromSantaLH.V.gdCuvéeKemijiCABSAUV-basedblend.

MorganSantaLH★★★Top-endsingle-v’ydPINOTN,CHARD.Espfine,unoakedChardMetallico.EstateDoubleLv’ydfarmedorganically.CotesduCrow’sischarming.

MoshinVineyardsRRV★★→★★★Creamy,richCHARDisthego-towinehere.GdSAUVBLandPINOTN.NewGRENACHEisexcellent.

MummNapaValleyNapaV★★★Stylishbubbly,espdeliciousBlancdeNoirsandrich,complexDVXsingle-v’ydfizztoageafewyrsinthebottle;alsoav.gdBrutRosé.CHARDandPINOTNareworthaglassorthree.

NalleSon★★★★DougNallemakesbalanced,deliciousZINs:pleasuretodrinkwhenyoungbutalsoagebeautifully.Beendoingitfordecadesandalwaysgetsitright.

NapaWineCompanyNapaVSeeTRINCHEROFAMILYESTATES.NavarroVineyardsAndV★★★V.gdRIESandGEWURZfrom

cool-climatepioneer.ButstarturnisPINOTN,intwostyles:

estate-bottledhomagetoBurgundyfromAndV.grapes,andabriskandjuicybottlingfrombought-ingrapes.

NewtonVineyardsSpringMtn★★★→★★★★03050607091011ThePuzzle,asuppleandelegantblendofBordeauxvarieties,consitentlyhitsfourstars.Gdageingpotential.Alsov.gdCABSAUV,MERLOTandCHARD.RedLabelbottlingsarefruit-forward,funtohangoutwith.

Nickel&Nickel★★★Specialistinexceptionalterroir-drivensingle-v’ydCABSAUV,MERLOT,SYRAH,ZINandCHARDfromNapaandSonoma.Line-upchangesfromyrtoyrbutalwayssomethingtoenjoy.

Niebaum-CoppolaEstate★★★FrancisFordCoppolahasbeeninanexpansionmodeforseveralyrs.Therearenowabewilderingnumberoflabels,incltop-of-the-lineFCResandtheDiamondlabelseries.Twonewbottlingsareofferedasflagshipredwineblends:EleanorandArchimedes.Sophiaisa

popularfizznamedafterthe“Godfather’sdaughter”.CoppolanowownsthehistoricINGLENOOKbrandaswellasCHATEAUSOUVERAINinSonoma.Newwinemaker,ex-ChâteauMargaux(Bordeaux),ischargedwithmakingRubiconmoreelegant.

OakvilleRanchOak★★★Asometimesoverlookedjewel,thisestateontheSilveradoTrailproducesconsistentlygdCABSAUVandacreamyCHARD.

OjaiSantaB★★★Extensivelistofv.gdPINOTN,CHARD,Rhônesandsingle-v’ydwinesofferedbyformerAUBONCLIMATpartnerAdamTolmach.LookespforthePresidioV’ydPinotNandSYRAH.

OpusOneOak★★★★0507091011Mondavi-RothschildcreationintheheartofNapahasmadegloriouswines,thoughnotalways.Excellentcurrentform,espthe2009,whichisdrinkablenowbutleaveitaloneforafewyrs.

PahlmeyerNapaV★★★CABSAUV-basedPiècedeRésistanceis

superb.SuppleMERLOTsareatreat.CHARDandPINOTNfromSonCoastareexcellent.

ParducciMend★★→★★★Reliable,gd-valuewinesfromhistoricwinery.TrueGritPETITESIRAHisbrilliant.

PatelNapaV★★★0708091011ExcellentCABSAUV,MERLOT-dominatedBordeauxblend.Cabisespgdwithlayersofflavoursandalongfinish.Gdageingpotential.

PatiannaVineyardsRRV★★★PattyFetzermakesincrediblygdSAUVBLfrombiodynamicv’ydsinSonomaCounty.SYRAHaclosesecond.

PaulDolanMend★★★Long-timeorganicandbiodynamicleaderPaulDolanoffersoutstandingZIN,SYRAH,CABSAUV,CHARD,andSAUVBL.

PaulHobbs★★★Carriesthesingle-v’ydbannertoextremelengths,witheightdifferentCHARDs,fivePINOTNs,sixCABSAUVsandasinglelonelySYRAH.Theyhaveincommonadepth

andintensity,sometimesalushnessborderingon,butneverquitebecoming,jammy.Allworthalook.

PedroncelliSon★★OldhandinDryCVproducingbright,elbow-bendingZIN,CABSAUVandasolidCHARD.

PeltierStationLodi★★→★★★Growersfor50yrs+,theSchatzfamily’sownwinesaregdtooutstanding.LookespfortherefreshingVIOGNIERandayummyZIN.Hybrid,asecondlabel,offersoutstandingPETITESIRAHandv.gdVERMENTINO.

TopPinotNoirsPINOTNhasmadeitselfathomeinCalifornia,puttingdownrootsandflourishingincoolerregionsofthestate.KeyAVAsforPinotNinthenorthincludeCarneroswhereblack-cherryandotherdarkfruitflavoursdominate;theRRV,offeringasupple,brightfruitprofile;theSonCoast,oftendominatedbya

hard-edgedmineralitywithlayeredflavours.OntheCentralCoast,PinotNfromSantaBarbaraandMonterey,esptheSantaLH,tendtobesofterwithanappealinggenerosity.FortopproducerslooktoALMAROSA,CALERA,DEHLINGER,DUTTONGOLDFIELD,FREEMAN,MARIMARTORRESESTATE,MERRYEDWARDS,MORGAN,SAINTSBURYandRTALBOTT.

PerianoLodi★★→★★★Outstandingold-vineZINfromnew-waveLodiproducer;v.gdVIOGNIER,CHARD;gdTEMPRANILLO.

PeterMichaelWineryMont★★★★Single-v’ydconceptisdrivingforce;adozenbottlingsofexcellentCHARDandPINOTNandtwobottlingsofBordeauxvarieties.

PhilipTogniVineyardsSpringMtn★★★★0001030507091011Veteranwinemakermakesv.fine,long-lastingCabSauvfromSpringMtn.TanbarkHillCABSAUVislessexpensivefor

earlierdrinking.PineRidgeNapaV★★★TannicandconcentratedCABSAUVs,

fromseveralNapaVv’yds,havealoyalfollowing.Fortisredblendismassive,intense.

PrestonDryCreekVineyardsDryCV★★★LouPrestonisademandingterroirist,makingDryCVicons:ZIN;v.gdrangeofRhônevarieties,espgdGRENACHEBLANC.

QuadyWineryCentralV★★→★★★MaderaMUSCATdessertwinesinclfamedorangeyEssensia,rose-petal-flavouredElysiumandMoscatod’Asti-likeElectra.StarboardPortisv.gd.

QuintessaNapaV★★★★SuppleredblendfromthisbiodynamicRutherfordestateshowsbalancedfruitinanhomagetoBordeaux.Canage.

QuiviraDryCV★★★Av.gdrangeofRhônevarieties,espGRENACHEfromabiodynamicestate.ZINisexcellent.Gdrosé.

QupéSantaB★★★★FocusisremarkablerangeofRhônes,esp

abrilliantMarsanne.GlassortwoofPINOTBLorSYRAHwouldalsobewelcome.Don’tforgetthePINOTN.

Rafanelli,ASon★★★ZINspecialistmakesintensewineswithbright,bramblyfruit.AlsogdCABSAUV.Zinwillage,butit’ssodelightfulyoung,whybother?

RameyWineCellarsRRV★★★V.gdsingle-v’ydCABSAUVfromNapaV;rich,complexCHARDfromcoolerv’yds,espHudsonV’yd,NapaV-Carneros.V.gd,intenseSYRAH.

RavenswoodSeeCONSTELLATION.RaymondVineyardsandCellarNapaV★★★0103050709

1011CABSAUVisthestoryhereanditiswelltold.Thewinesarebalanced,understatedbutaptforlongageing,esptheflagshipGenerationsblend.AlsogdCHARD.

RidgeSantaCzMts★★★★(CABSAUV)99000103050708091011RidgefounderPaulDraperisoneofthekeyfiguresinmodernCaliforniawine.Supple,harmoniousestateMontebello

CabSauvissuperb.Alsooutstandingsingle-v’ydZINfromSonoma,NapaV,SierraF’hillsandPRob.Anddon’toverlookoutstandingChardfromwild-yeastfermentation.Keepupthegdwork,Paul.

RobertMondavi★→★★★TopareNapaVReserves,followedbyNapaVappellationseries(eg.CarnerosCHARD,OakvilleCABSAUV,etc.),withNapaVbottlingsatthebase.VariousCentralCoastwinesandRobertMondavi-Woodbridgearegd-valuebrands.RobertMondaviisownedbyCONSTELLATION.

RochioliVineyards&WinerySon★★★ExcellentestatePINOTNandabrilliantCHARD.Alsov.gdSAUVBL.

RoedererEstateAndV★★★★Thehousestyletendstorestraintandsuppleelegance,espinluxurycuvéeL’Ermitage.Overall,oneofthetopthreesparklersinCaliforniaandhands-downthebestrosé.OwnedbyChampagneRoederer.

RogerCraigWinesNapaV★★★CABSAUVspecialistfocuseson

powerandcomplexitywithaminerally,herbalside.RoundPondEstateRuth★★★EstateCABSAUVfromRuth

grapesissuperb,withroundedflavoursandbrightfruit;v.gdSAUVBL.

SaddlebackCellarsNapaV★★★★01050607081011Owner-winemakerNilsVengeisalegendinNapaV.LushZINandlong-livedCABSAUV.GdSAUVBL.

StClementNapaV★★★99000103050607091011Severalbottlingsofsingle-v’ydCABSAUV,espArmstrongV’ydsDiamondMtnandmulti-v’ydblendOroppas,showsupplepower,deepflavours;alsov.gdMERLOT,SAUVBL.

StFrancisSon★★★LagomarsinoCABSAUVfromRRVisterrific;v.gdCHARDandclassicold-vineZIN.

SaintsburyCar★★★PINOTNandCHARDfromCarneros.Winesareintensebutbalancedandengaging.Av.gdVinGris.

St-SupéryNapa★★→★★★SAUVBLoneofthebestinstate;

powerful,silkyMERLOT;outstandingCABSAUVandCHARDfromDollarhideEstateV’yd.

SantaCruzMountainVineyard★★★RichestatePINOTN,capableofageing.GRENACHEfromcentury-oldMendocinovinesisremarkable;gdCABSAUVinarusticstyle.

SchramsbergNapaV★★★★JSchram,thecreamyandutterlydeliciousluxurycuvée,hasbeencalledCalifornia’sKrug.BlancdeNoirsisoutstanding,asisBrut,whileResisrichandintense.SecondlabelMirabelleisv.agreeable.Alsoav.gdCABSAUV,JDavies,frommtnestatevines.Schramsbergstandsthetestoftime.

ScreamingEagleNapaV★★★★SmalllotsofcultCABSAUVatluxurypricesforthosewholikeandcanaffordthatkindofthing.

SeghesioSon★★★SuperbZINs,drinkablewhenyoung,takingondepthwithage.V.gdBARBERAandSANGIOVESE.

SeleneNapaV★★★★MiaKleinmakessmalllotsofBordeauxvarietals,andtheyaresuperb.DeadFredV’ydCabSauvistopdog,sometimesfacingachallengefromHydeV’ydSAUVBL.There’sevenarosé:hurrah!

SequanaSon★★★PINOTN-onlyventure,focusonsingle-v’ydwines:complex,silky.

SequoiaGroveNapaV★★★Severalbottlingsofsingle-v’ydCABSAUV,allsuperb,intense,concentratedbutbalancedandbuilttolast.CHARDisalsov.gd.

ShaferVineyardsNapaV★★★→★★★★(CABSAUV)0102030507091011Rich,intenseCabSauv,esptheHillsideSelect,andoneofstate’sbestMERLOTS.

ShannonRidgeLake★★→★★★Outstandingline-upofwinesfromv’ydsat2,000-feet+elevationinLakeCounty;espgdROUSSANNE,VIOGNIER;TEMPRANILLO,PETITESIRAHandCABSAUVsuperb.

SignorelloNapaV★★★Padrone,richandconcentratedCABSAUV,isatreat.ViellesVignesCHARDissilkyandinviting;SetaasplendidSAUVBL/SÉMblend.

SilveradoVineyardsStagsL★★★SoloCABSAUVshowsoffStagsLAVAterroirandisexcellent;fineCHARDandSAUVBL.

SilverOakAlexV★★★SeparatewineriesinNapaV,AlexVmakeCABSAUVonly.ClassicNapaCabSauv,AlexVabitmoresupple.Bothhaveloyalfollowing.

SinskeyVineyardsCar★★★OutstandingCarnerosMERLOTandsingle-v’ydCABSAUV,CHARDandespbrightandcharmingPINOTN.

Smith-MadroneSpringMtn★★★SuperbRIES:off-drystyle,brilliantfloralminerality.Alsov.gdpowerfulCABSAUVfromhigh-elevationv’yd.Vinesnotirrigated.

SodaroEstateNapaV★★★VeteransBillandDawnineDyerareconsultantsatthisnewishfamilywinery,sodon’tlookforcult-

wineknock-offshere.Winesareelegantandbalanced,esptheCABSAUV-basedFelicity;alsov.gdMALBEC.

SomerstonNapaV★★★PriestRanchCABSAUVisoutstanding,withgdstructureandlayersofflavour.SYRAHisrichandfull-bodied.Alsov.gdZIN.

RangingoverIberiaIt’sonenewcrazeafteranotherinCalifornia.JustwhenwegettheRhôneRangerssortedout,alongcomestheTempranilloAdvocatesProducersandAmigosSociety(TAPAS),anewishwineorganizationlookingtotheIberianpeninsulaforvinousinspiration.Almost100wineriesinCalifornia,Texas,Oregon,WashingtonandArizonaarememberswithafocusonnotonlyTempranillobutallwinegrapesindigenoustoSpainandPortugal.TAPAShasdeclaredanALBARIÑODayanda

TempranilloDay.ConsideringthenumberofgrapevarietiesinSpainandPortugal,thecalendarisgoingtogetcrowded.Butwhynot?Themorewinechoicesthebetter,¿verdad?ForacompletelistofTAPASproducers,seewww.tapasociety.org.

Sonoma-CutrerVineyardsSon★★★ExcellentCHARDandPINOTNfromcool-climatev’ydsinRRVandSonCoast.Chard,madeinaflintystyle,iscapableofageing.

SpottswoodeStHelena★★★★9799000103050607091011AddtotheshortlistofCalifornia“firstgrowths”.TheoutstandingCabSauvisirresistible,willage.BrilliantSAUVBLisabonus.

SpringMountainVineyardSpringMtn★★★SignatureElivetteCABSAUVblendisconcentrated:layersofflavour,willage.EstateCabSauvv.gd,asistheSAUVBL.

StaglinFamilyVineyardRuth★★★030507091011AnelegantCABSAUVfromRutherfordBenchv’ydhasgdageingpotential.EstateCHARDshowslayeredflavoursandminerality;gdSANGIOVESE.

Stag’sLeapWineCellarsStagsL★★★→★★★★990001030507091011Celebratedforsilky,seductiveCABSAUVs(SLV,Fay,top-of-lineCask23),MERLOTs.GdCHARDoftenoverlooked.Holdsthelineforbalanceandharmonyagainstthelocalblockbusters.

Stags’LeapWinerySeeBERINGERBLASS.StamaLodi★★Grape-growersforfivegenerations,startingin

Greece.Friendlywines,inclaremarkablygdold-vineZINandav.gdCABSAUV.

StephenRossEdnaV★★★ArisingstarforPINOTNandCHARD.TheBurgundianapproachaddscomplexitytosingle-v’ydbottlingsmostlyfromEdnaVgrapes.

SterlingNapaV★★→★★★Showplacewinery,earlyleaderinseriousMERLOT;gdCHARDandCABSAUV.

StevenKent★★★0607091011Whenthefamilywinerywassold,StevenKentMirassousetouttomakegreatCABSAUVinthehistoricLivV.Someremarkablesingle-v’ydbottlings.

California’sKorbel“Champagne”wasservedtoObamain2013.Label-changetime?

StonestreetSon★★★AlexanderMtnCABSAUVisbalanced,withlayersofflavours;excellentCHARD.PartoftheKENDALL-JACKSONArtisans&Estatesgroup.

StonyHillNapaV★★★★(CHARD)9799000103050607091011Legendarypioneerofincrediblylong-livedChard,gracefulandsupple,andnowaCABSAUV,restrainedandbalanced:aninstantNapaclassic.

SutterHomeSeeTRINCHEROFAMILYESTATES.SwansonOak★★★AlexisCABSAUVislean,supplewith

excellentfruitandabalancedfinish.Alsov.gdMERLOT.GdSANGIOVESEandagdRosatoundertheSalonlabel.

TablasCreekPRob★★★HolygroundforRhônistas.V’ydbasedoncuttingsfromChâteauneuf,ajointventurebetweenChâteaudeBeaucastel(seeFrance)andimporterRobertHaas.CôtesdeTablasRedandWhiteareamazinglygd,asistheTablasCreekEsprit.

Talbott,RMont★★★Supple,engagingCHARD,PINOTNfromsinglev’ydsinMonterey,withanodtoBurgundy.LookespforSleepyHollowChardfromSantaLH.

TerraValentineSpringMtn★★→★★★ExcellentCABSAUV,boththeestateandtheYverdonv’ydbottling;brilliantAlsace-styleRIES;gdrosé.

TerryHoagePRob★★→★★★TerryHoageisaconvinced

Rhonista,withv.gdesults.OutstandingGRENACHEandROUSSANNEleadthelist.

ThacherPRob★★→★★★OutstandingZIN(severalsingle-v’ydbottings)andSYRAHplusabrilliantVIOGNIER.

ThomasFogartySantaCzMts★★→★★★SecretweaponisthespicyandintenseGEWURZ,aboutasgdasitgetsinCalifornia.EstateCHARDislayeredandcomplexwithsomeageingpotential;gdPINOTN.

ThomasGeorgeEstatesRRV★★→★★★Smallproducerofsingle-v’ydCHARDandPINOTN.CrestaRidgePinotNoffersbrightfruitandspice;EagleRidgePinotNisdarker.DeepandrichestateChardandalsoaminerallyanddeliciousunoakedChard.RecentlyaddedasparklingBrutRosé.

TorWinesNapaV★★★NapaveteranTorKenwardonhisownwithseveralbottlingsofCABSAUV;bestisfromthefamedToKalonv’yd.Rich,intensewinetoage.

TranscendenceSantaB★★→★★★Parea,aGRENACHE-anchoredRhôneblend,isoutstanding;Zotovichv’ydCHARDisexcellentaswell.

TreanaPRob★★Onlytwowines:TreanaRed,basedonCABSAUV,andTreanaWhite,ablendofVIOGNIERandMARSANNE.Youcan’tgowrongwitheither.

TrefethenFamilyVineyardsNapaV★★★03040507081011HistoricfamilywineryinNapa.Off-dryRIESissplendid.CABSAUVonanupwardcurveinrecentvintages.CHARDcanbeexcellent,alsoages.

TresSaboresRuth★★★ThisestateismakinganameforitsZIN,dry-farmedfromorganichillsidev’yds.Sleekandpowerfulwithterrificlong-lastingfruitandaroundedfinish.

TricycleWineCompanyLake★★NewproducerfocusedonmostlyLakeCounty;excellentCABSAUVfromObsidianv’yd.

TrincheroFamilyEstatesNapaV★→★★Long-timeNapa

producer(rememberSUTTERHOMEWhiteZin?)movingupmarketwithaseriesofCABSAUVs.LookespforChickenRanchV’ydbottlingandCabSauvunderNapaWineCompanylabel.

TrioneSon★★★Topgrowernowmakingsuperbwinesfromestatev’yds.ThevelvetyBlock21CABSAUVfromAlexValisafuturefour-starcandidatewithageingpotential;v.gdPINOTNandSYRAHfromRRV.

Truchard★★★CarnerosveterannowofferingbrilliantbottlingsofTEMPRANILLOandROUSSANNE.Alsotangy,lemonyCHARD,flavourfulMERLOT.CABSAUV,SYRAHalsov.gd.

TudalStHelena★★★Marvellous,elegantCABSAUV.Couldagewellbeyondadecade.

TurnbullNapaV★★★0607091011UnderstatedCABSAUV,Napaclassic:powerfulyetsuppleandbalanced.TheResbottlingshouldbecellaredforatleastadecade.

ValleyoftheMoonSon★→★★Reliablequaff;PINOTBLandZINcanreach★★level.

ViaderEstateNapaV★★★★99000103050607080910Long-livedandpowerfulCABSAUV-basedblendsfromHowellMtnhillsideestate;ViaderBlackLabelisanewestateMALBEC.Alsolookforsmall-lotbottlings,inclSYRAH,TEMPRANILLOundertheDarelabel.

VinaRoblesSanLO★★→★★★GdCABSAUVandSAUVBL;everydayRedandWhitearesuper-affordablewithbrightfruitandpleasingacidity.

VolkerEiseleFamilyEstateNapaV★★★00010305070910Supple,lusciousCABSAUV-basedblends;espTerzettobottling;newofferingisAlexander,a100%CabSauv.Geminiisalovely,livelySAUVBL/SÉMblend.Allfromorganicgrapes.

WenteVineyardsMont★★→★★★Thereisanobviousefforttoraisethequalitystandardatthishistoricwinery.NewCHARD

bottlingsinparticulararemorecomplex.Alsov.gdLivermoreSauvBlandSÉM.

WhitehallLaneRuth★★★PowerfulyetelegantResCABSAUVedgingintofour-starterritory.V.gdSAUVBL.

WilliamsSelyemSon★★★Intense,smokyRRVPINOTN,espRochioliV’ydsandAllenV’yd.NowreachingtoSonCoast,Mendocinoforgrapes.Cultishfavouritecansometimesturnjammyandoverconcentrated.

WillowbrookSon★★★Growingreputationforsingle-v’ydPINOTNfromcool-climatevines;lookespfortheRRVestatePinot,deepandrichwithlayersofflavour.

WilsonVineyardsSon★★→★★★FocusisonoutstandingDryCVZIN.Diane’sResandCarl’sResbottlingsespimpressive.

WineGroup,TheCentralV★Third-largestproducerofwineintheworldbyvolume,offersrangeofeverydaywines,eg.GlenEllen,alsoFranziabag-in-box.

ZacaMesaSantaB★★→★★★NewfocusonestateRhônevarietiesshowinggdresults.BlackBearBlockSYRAHisoneofthebestinthestate;alsolookforZThree,adeliciousblendofSyrahandGRENACHE,andcheckouttheROUSSANNE.

ZahtilaVineyardsNapa★★★ElegantCABSAUV,espBentlybottlingfromOakville;intenseOatHillEstateZin.ExceptionalLaura’sThemePETITESIRAH/Zin.

Red,whiteandgreenWinegeeksliketoargueaboutthedefinitionandpossiblemeritsofso-called“natural”wines(minimalornoartificialinputstogrowingormaking),butinOregonthevirtuesofgreenviticultureareuncontroversial.Nearly40%ofthestate’sv’ydsmeritsomemannerofsustainablecertification.TheyinclLIVE(LowInputViticultureandEnology),OregonTilth(organic),

DemeterBiodynamic®,andOCSW(OregonCertifiedSustainableWine).Preservingtheviabilityoftheirv’ydsandsurroundingenvironmentforfuturegenerationsistheaim;it’snotamarketingploy.

THEPACIFICNORTHWESTItwasn’tthatmanyyearsagoyoucouldtourtheNorthwest’smajorwineregionsandvisitalltheimportantwineriesintwoweekends:oneinOregon’sWillametteValleyforPinotNoir,andoneinWashington’sYakimaValleyforCabernetSauvignonorMerlot.Notanymore.Today’sNorthwestisthesecond-largestwineregioninNorthAmerica(productionandnumberofwineries)andhas26AVAsgrowingallmannerofgrapevarieties.Itseemsanewwineryopenseveryweek,withjustasmanystartedonashoestringbystarry-eyedwine-loversasarelaunchedbywell-heeledsecond-careerists.Whynot?Thenortherlylatitudeprovidesmoregrowing-seasonsunlightandcoolernighttimetemperaturesthanCalifornia,resultingingenerallycrisperwineswithappealinglyfresh,food-friendlyfruitflavours.This,plusaresurgentspiritofexperimentation,meansanadmirablediversityofwines,fromwell-

madevaluebottlestoartisan-craftedboutiquereleases.Thisisaregionripeforvinousdiscoveries.

PrincipalviticulturalareasColumbiaValley(ColV)HugeAVAincentralandeasternWashingtonwithatouchinOregon.QualityCabSauv,Merlot,Ries,Chard,Syrah.Keysub-divisionsinclYakimaValley(YakV),RedMountain,WallaAVAs.SnakeRiverValley(SnakeRV)Idaho’sonlyAVA;partiallyinOregon.SouthernOregon(SOregon)Warm-climateregioninclAVAsRogue,Applegate(AppV)andUmpquaValleys(UmV).Tempranillo,Syrah,Viognierarev.gd;lotsofexperimentation.WillametteValley(WillV)Oregon’shomeforcool-climatePinotNandPinotGr,plusv.gdChardanddryRies.ImportantchildAVAsinclDundeeHills,ChehalemMts,Yamhill-Carlton(Y-Car),Eola-AmityHills.WallaWallaValley(Walla)ChildAVAofColVwithown

identityandvinesinWashingtonandOregon.HomeofimportantboutiquebrandsandprestigelabelsfocusingonqualityCabSauv,Merlot,Syrah.

Recentvintages2012 Long,warmharvestconsideredsuperbforbalanced

Washingtonandwell-focused,richlyfruityOregonwines.2011ClassicOregonPinotN,thankstomiraculouslate-autumn

weather.Washington’scool,lateharvestresultedinhigher-acid,age-worthywines.

2010Verycoolvintageeverywheremeansloweralcohol,higher-acidwineswithfreshvarietalcharacter.

2009Washingtonbravedverywarmsummerandharvestfrosttoproduceconcentratedwines.ChallenginginOregon,butwinesripeandpleasing.

2008Warmvintageproducedlushandcrowd-pleasingOregonwines;Washingtonwascoolerwithleaner,complexredsandcrispwhites.

2007 ExcellentWashingtonvintage;winesfocusedandbalanced.

CoolandwetinOregonsowinesareleanbutlikelylong-lived.

OregonAbacelaVineyardsSOr★★★AspecialistinSpanishvarieties

andconsistentleaderinTEMPRANILLOandALBARIÑO;v.gdSYRAHandVIOGNIER.lookforexcellentRioja-styleblendParamour.

AdelsheimVineyardWillV★★★→★★★★07080910Leadingproducerwithtop-notchsingle-v’ydPINOTN,v.gdResCHARD,PinotNandfunAUXERROIS.

AmalieRobertEstateWillV★★★CraftmakerofmultipleexcellentestatePINOTN;v.gdCHARD,andinterestingcool-climateWillVVIOGNIER,SYRAH.

AnamCaraCellarsWillV★★★FamilywinerymakingwonderfulPINOTNwithgraceanddepth,espNicholasEstate;DryRIESisalsosuperb.

AnticaTerraWillV★★★080910MaggieHarrisonleftCalifornia’sSineQuaNontomakestylishWillVPINOTN.Namesakebottlingismultisourceblend;ErraticaisSheaV’yd;bothhighlysoughtafter.

ArcherySummitWillV★★★0809’1011Fiveestatev’yds;AnnaMatzingermakesdense,assertivePINOTN;Arcus,RedHillsbottlingsalwaysimpressive.

ArgyleWillV★★→★★★VersatileveteranRollinSolescraftsreliablyfinewinesforalltastes:PINOTN,CHARD,dryandsweetRIES,plusmultiplestylesofv.gdbubbly.BrianCroserinvolvement.

NewNorthwestwinegrapes:Vermentino,Albariño,GrünerVeltliner,Auxerrois,Lagrein,GrenacheBlanc.

BeauxFrèresWillV★★★080910Prestigebiodynamicallyfarmedestatemakesincreasinglyrefined,collectiblePINOTN.

PartlyownedbycriticRobertParker,Jr.BergströmWinesWillV★★★→★★★★080910Josh

Bergström’spopular,punchybiodynamicPINOTNSareatreat.Smalllot,expensiveSigridCHARDisspectacular.

BethelHeightsWillV★★→★★★Second-generationfamilywineryisanOregonlegend.SpicyandsophisticatedPINOTN,v.gdChard,PINOTSGRandBL.

BrandborgVineyard&WinerySOr★★→★★★UmVPINOTNspecialist(FerrisWheelEstatehasgreatcomplexity)alsomakessupplePINOTGR,v.gdGEWURZ,SYRAH.

BrickHouseWillV★★★Biodynamicleaderproducingearthy,powerfulPINOTN(espCuvéeduTonnelier),stylishCHARD.It’strueGAMAYisafunfind.

BroadleyVineyardsWillV★★★080910Familywinery;characterfulPINOTNfromolderestatevinesandselectedv’yds.BasicWillVreleaseisasteal,Claudia’sChoiceistop-end

winner.BrooksWineryWillV★★★ZestydryandunctuoussweetRIES

areamongOregon’sbest,likewiseRedLetterandRastebanPINOTN.

ChehalemWillV★★★PowerhousePINOTNproducer,withequallystrongRIES,CHARD,PINOTGR.RidgecrestPinotNisage-worthy;unoakedINOXChardisgreatvalue.

CowhornSOr★★★AppVBiodynamicpuristmakesknock-your-socks-offSYRAH;Spiral36whiteblendissensational.

CristomWillV★★★ConsistentlyamongthebestPINOTNinOregon.JessieV’ydhasafreshsavouriness,SommersRestruffleovertones.

DobbesFamilyEstateWillV★★→★★★EminentwinemakerJoeDobbes;prestigeWillVPINOTN(MeyerV’ydistops),plusSYRAHandGRENACHEBLfromSOregon.SecondlabelWinebyJoe:greatbargainPinotN,PINOTGR.

DomaineDrouhinOregonWillV★★★→★★★★06070809’10NewWorldbranchofBurgundy’sDomaineDrouhin.ConsistentlyoutstandingPINOTN,minerallyCHARD.Barrel-selectLaurènePinotNisamazing.

DomaineSereneWillV★★★PremiumPINOTNconsistentlywinscriticalraves.Small-productionCHARDisparticularlytasty.

ElkCoveVineyardsWillV★★→★★★Excellentvaluewinesfromsecond-generationwinemaker.PINOTGRandRIESperenniallytops;EstateVineyardPinotNoirdeliverdelectablearrayofWillVterroirs.

ErathVineyardsWillV★★→★★★AfoundingOregonwinerynowownedbyWashington’sChâteauSteMichelle.Reliable,value-pricedPinot-familywines;single-v’dPINOTNSarefabulous.

EtFilleWillV★★★Boutiquefather/daughterteammakememorablePINOTN,espKalitaV’yd,andsurprisingcool-climate

VIOGNIERandSYRAH.EveningLandWillV★★★SevenSpringsSummumPINOTNand

CHARDarespectacularbutexpensive.SilverandGoldlabelsarev.gdestatewines,BlueLabelwinesareaffordableversions.

EyrieVineyardsWillV★★★TheprophetDavidLettplantedthefirstWillVPINOTN;todaysonJasonextendsthelegacywithterrificPinotNingraceful,classicallyOregonstyle.Alsov.gdCHARDandPINOTGR.

KenWrightCellarsWillV★★★Perenniallypopular;greatsingle-v’ydPINOTNsshowrangeofWillVterroirs.CanaryHillispretty,forward;FreedomHilldense,firm.

KingEstateOr★★→★★★Oneofthestate’slargestwineriesoffersstrongPINOTGR(aspeciality)andPINOTNwithgd-valueatmultiplepricepoints.

LangeEstateWineryWillV★★★Venerablebrandonsecond-generationroll;mouth-wateringPINOTN(LangeEstateis

luscious),barrel-agedResPINOTGR,v.gdCHARD.MatelloWillV★★★Artisanwinerygrowinginimportance,

whoseLazarusandSourisPINOTNsaresuperb;arisingstar.PhelpsCreekVineyards★★★Quality-leadingColumbiaGorge

producerofv.gdCHARD(oakedandunoaked);prettyPINOTNreleasesshowgorgefruitcharacter.

PonziVineyardsWillV★★★→★★★★Legendaryproducernowin2ndgenerationmakingexcellentwines.ResCHARDisastandout,AuroraPINOTNaknockout.Don’tmissthebrilliantARNEIS.

QuadyNorthSOr★★→★★★HerbQuadycraftstop-qualityCABFRfromcoolerRogueValleyAVAsites,alsointriguingstylesofVIOGNIERandconcentratedSYRAHS.

RexHillWillV★★★Resurgentlabel.Biodynamicfarmingandhand-craftingmakessuperbestatePINOTN,plusexceptionalOldVineCHARD.

RoxyAnnWinerySOr★★★Solidwarm-climatemakerofflavourfulPINOTGR,aromaticVIOGNIER,satisfyingClaretredblend,andv.gdSYRAH.

ScottPaulWinesWillV★★★070809’10PINOTN-onlyproduceremphasizeseleganceandgracewithsophisticatedburgundy-inspiredcharacter.LePauléeapproachableonrelease,Audreygdforcellaring.

InOregon,DRCstandsforDeepRootsCoalition:growerswhowon’tirrigate.

SokolBlosserWillV★★★Second-generationmakeroflovelyPINOTNandPINOTGRfromDundeeHills;alsoinexpensivefunwhiteblendcalledEvolution.

SoterVineyardWillV★★★CalifornialegendTonySotermovedtoOregontomakePINOTN.EstateMineralSpringsRanchPinotNissublimelybalancedandharmonious,butdon’tmiss

thetremendoussparklers.SpanglerVineyardsSOr★★★V.gdwarm-climatereds,espRes

CABSAUVandPETITESIRAH;VIOGNIERisalwaystop-notch.StollerFamilyEstateWillV★★★Beautifullybalancedwines

exemplifyDundeeHillsintensity;Cathy’sResisexceptional.Alsov.gdResCHARD.

WillametteValleyVineyardsWillV★★→★★★InexpensiveRIESisagreatbuy;EstateCHARDandPINOTNaresuperb.

Washington&IdahoAndrewWill★★★07’08080910ChrisCamardamakes

stunningredblendsfromoutstandingColVv’yds.Sorellahasbigfruit;CielduChevalmorestructured.

BetzFamilyWinery★★★→★★★★050607’0809MasterofWineBobBetzmakesRhônestylesfromtopColVv’yds.LaSerenneSYRAHisextraordinary;powerhouseLaCôtePatriarche

comesfromstate’soldestSyrahvines.BrianCarterCellars★★→★★★Onlyblendshere,all

masterful.TryunconventionalPETITV-drivenTrentenaire,ByzanceRhôneblend,orthearomaticwhiteOriana.

ButyWalla★★★Top-qualitywinesinappealingvarietyofstyles.LovetheSYRAH/CABSAUVblendRedivivaoftheStones;alsodelightfulSÉM/SAUVBL/MUSCADELLEwhite.

Cadence★★★CompellingBordeaux-styleblends,inclpowerfulCodafromRedMtnfruit,andspicyCABFR-dominantBelCanto.

CayuseWalla★★★→★★★★CultbiodynamicwinerydeliveringspellbindingSyrahandamazingGRENACHE–butyouhavetobeonthemailinglisttogetany.

WallaWallaishotTheWallaWallaAVAisahotbedofWashingtonvinous

enterprise–eventhoughmanyofitstopv’ydsarelocatedintheOregonpartoftheAVA.Grapesweregrownhereinthe1860s,butthemodernindustrytookrootin1974,whenGaryFigginsofLEONETTICELLARputanacreofCABSAUVintheground.Withacharmingruraltownandaround120wineries,today’swinetouristsflocktoWallainsearchofthemanyboutiquebrands(CAYUSE,LEONETTICELLAR,GRAMARCYCELLARS,LONGSHADOWSandothers)aswellasthetried-and-true(WOODWARDCANYON,L’ECOLENO41,PEPPERBRIDGE,SEVENHILLSWINERY,WATERBROOK,amongothers).

CharlesSmithWinesWalla★★→★★★Marketeer/winemakerCharlesSmithcommandshighpriceswithpowerful(toomuchso?)reds.RoyalCitySYRAHisafavourite;alsoinexpensiveKungFuGirlRIES.

ChateauSteMichelle★★→★★★★Northwest’slargestwine

companyflagshipbrand.Allprices/styles:fromv.gdquaffers(ColVDryRIESexcellent)toTBA-stylerarities(EroicaSingleBerrySelect).ColV-labelledgd-value,EthosRespremium.

ChinookWinesColV★★★Husband(vines)andwife(wines)haveahistoryoffine,valueCABFR(theroséisdelightful),MERLOT,CHARD,SAUVBL.

ColSolareColV★★★STEMICHELLEandTuscany’sAntinoripartnertomakeasingleColSolareredblendeachvintage,invariablycomplexandlong-lasting.Less-expensiveShiningHillblendismoreapproachable.

ColumbiaCrestColV★★→★★★Washington’slargestwinerymakesmassesofgd,affordablewinesunderGrandEstatesandTwoVineslabels.Reswinesdandy,espWalterCloreredwine;H3winesareallfromHorseHeavenHillsAVA.

CoteBonnevilleYakV★★★V’ydonsteepbasaltwinsmedalsfordeep,sleekCABblends,espCarriageHouse.

DeLilleCellars★★★Classy,age-worthyreds.HarrisonHillCABSAUVfromstate’s2ndoldestv’ydispenetrating;ChaleurEstateblendsconsistentlysuperb.

DustedValleyVintnersWalla★★★Fast-risingstar,impressivewines.PopularforStainedToothSyrah;beautifulOld-VineCHARDoranysingle-varietyrelease.

Efeste★★★BrilliantnewcomermakingzestyRIES,racyCHARDfromcoolEvergreenV’yd,alsov.gdSYRAHs.

AlmostallWashingtonvinesareown-rooted;phylloxeraisnotanissue.

FidélitasColV★★★CharlieHoppescreatessuperiorBordeaux-styles.Opturedblendluscious;CielduChevalV’ydCABSAUVshowspowerofRedMtnAVAfruit.

GramercyCellarsWalla★★★Sommelier-turned-winemaker

GregHarringtonmakessophisticated,voluptuousSYRAHS.RecentlyaddedearthyTEMPRANILLOandherbyCABSAUVwinners,too.

HogueCellars,TheColV★★Stylishvaluesingle-varietywinesunderHoguebrand.Genesis-andRes-labelledwinesaremorefocusedandsmallerproduction.

Januik★★★Artisanwinesfromaveteranwinemaker.ColdCreekCHARDissuperb,ChampouxVy’dCABSAUVisedgyandwinning.

L’EcoleNo41Walla★★★→★★★★Everythingisgdhere.GrabApogeePepperBridgeVineyardorPerigeeEstate(eachfromadifferentv’yd)redblendforatreat,ortheircultishSÉMforaremarkablybright,aromaticwhite.

LeonettiCellarWalla★★★→★★★★04050607’080910Legendarywineryforelegant,refinedandcollectableCABSAUV,MERLOTandSANGIOVESE.

LongShadowsWalla★★★→★★★★AllenShoup’suniqueventurebringssevengloballyfamouswinemakerstoWashingtontomaketheirsignaturevarietywithColVfruit.PedestalMERLOTbyMichelRollandisluscious,FeatherCABSAUVbyCalifornia’sRandyDunnisrefined.Alltheothersareequallyimpressive.

McCrea★★★Rhône-in-the-Northwestpioneermakes1st-classwines.Siroccoblendhaslayersofcomplexity;don’tmissexoticCounoiseormultiplestylesofSYRAH.

MaisonBleueColV★★★Newishboutiqueturningheads,espUplandV’ydGRENACHEandpinpoint-correctMARSANNE,VIOGNIER.

MaryhillWinery★★PopularColumbiaGorgeAVAproducer;hugerange.ResZINandResCABFRarealwaysv.gd,alsoRIES.

MillbrandtVineyardsColV★★Well-madevaluevarietalwinesfromtheWahlukeSlopeandAncientLakesAVAs.

NefariousCellarsColV★★★Wife-and-husbandcraftproducerintheLakeChelanAVAmakingv.gdSYRAH,VIOGNIERandRIES.

NorthstarWalla★★★Winemaker“Merf”MerfeldisaMERLOTmaven.NorthstarPremierMerlotisdrop-deadgorgeous;WallaWallaMerlotissultry.

PacificRim★★→★★★RIESspecialistmakingoodlesoftasty,inexpensiveyeteloquentDryandOrganic.Forprofoundity,single-v’ydreleasesareunbeatable.

PepperBridgeWalla★★★EstatePepperBridgeandSevenHillsV’yds,areamongWashington’sbest.CABSAUVsensuousandrich,MERLOTspicyandaromatic.

QuilcedaCreek★★★★0102’030405060709Extraordinary,often100-pointscoring,CabSauvfromoneofthemostlaudedproducersinNorthAmerica:dense,intense,tremendouslylong-lasting.

SevenHillsWineryWalla★★★RespectedespforsilkyCABSAUV(KlipsunV’ydsismassiveandbeautiful),thoughVIOGNIERisadelight,too.

SnoqualmieVineyardsColV★★→★★★Innovativeproducerofv.gdCABSAUVandMERLOT.RecentintroductionofNakedWines(nooak)fromorganicv’ydshasbeenahit.LookespforlusciousNakedRIES.

SpringValleyVineyardWalla★★★NinaLeeSYRAHislip-smackinglygd,UriahMERLOTblenddeepandrefined,Frederickredblendsuaveandpolished.

Syncline★★★JamesMantonemakesexcellentwinesfromColumbiaGorgeandColVfruit.SubductionRedishedonistic,GRENACHEBLANCisgreat.

ThurstonWolfeColV★★★FamilywineryworkingwithunusualWashingtonvarieties.TheSpaniard(GRENACHE/TEMPRANILLO/SYRAH)isyummy,PRIMITIVOv.gd.

WaterbrookWalla★→★★★Largeproducerofdiverse,gd-valuewinesinmultiplestylesatmanypricepoints.

WatersWineryWalla★★★IntriguingOld-World-inspiredwines.21GramsCABSAUVneedsage,CappellaCABFRblendisbigbutapproachable,roséacreamydelight.

WoodwardCanyonWalla★★★→★★★★(CABSAUV)020304’060709Impeccablewines.OldVinesCabSauvisrefinedandcomplex,Charbonneauredscrumptiousandage-able.

CinderWinesSnakeRV★★★BreakoutIdahowinerymakingsmallamountsofmarvellousVIOGNIER,auniqueMOURVÈDRE/TEMPRANILLOblend,andv.gdSYRAH.

KoenigWinerySnakeRV★★ReliableSYRAH,MERLOT,CHARD.TheCSPVisanunusualCABSAUV/PETITVERDOTblend.

SteChapelleSnakeRV★→★★Idaho’sfirstandlargestwinerymakesquaffableRIES,inexpensivebubbly,andIcewines.

NORTHEAST,SOUTHEAST&CENTRALThoseinsearchofmoreelegantwinescanfindrespiteinthesteelyRieslingsfromNewYork,andthemid-weightViogniersandCabernetFrancsofVirginia,andit’sthesethataremakingmostimpressionabroad.Virginiainparticularisstartingtomakewaves.ButthereisalsogoodChardonnayandBordeaux-inspiredCabernetandMerlotfromthemid-Atlanticstates,andsweetwinesmadefromnativemuscadinegrapesintheSouth.

RecentvintagesWinter2011waswarmerthanusualinmanyplacesandsummer2012tendedtobedryandhot,withrecordtemperaturesinMichiganandmanyotherareas.Harvestwastwotofourweeksearlierthanaveragethroughouttheregion.Amazingly,aciditylevelsremainedconstantwhilesugarlevelswerehigh,thankstotheheataccumulation.Allinall2012mayprovetobeasuperiorvintageformuchoftheEast.

AlbaNJ★UniquemicroclimateforgdPINOTNandCABFR,andexcellentRIES.

AnthonyRoadFingerL,NY★★★★101112OneofthebestproducersintheEastwithGermanwinemakerturningoutexceptionalRIESandGEWURZ,plusfinePINOTGR,CABFR,late-harvestVignoles.

BarboursvilleVA★★★09101112Founded1976byItaly’sZoninfamilyonstunningsiteoncefrequentedbyThomasJefferson.OutstandingItalianvarieties,inclBARBERAandNEBBIOLO,plussucculentBordeaux-styleblend,excellentCABFR,andMalvasia.ElegantinnandTuscan-stylerestaurant.

BedellLongI,NY★★★09101112StylishLONGISLANDestablishment,oneoffirstseriousestatesintheEastwithoutstandingCHARD,GEWURZandCABSplustoothsomeblends.Sophisticatedtastingroom,gardens,etc.

BoxwoodVA★★101112ElegantestatenotableforthreeBordeaux-styleblends,plustwodryrosés.

BreauxVA★101112Hilltopv’yd,hourfromWashingtonDC.GdCHARD,MERLOT.

ChanningDaughtersLongI,NY★★★09101112SouthForkestatewithv.gdTocaiFRIULANO,PINOTBIANCO,PINOTGRIGIO,MUSCATOttonel;alsoMERLOT,CABSFRandSAUVandvery

creativeblends.ChâteauLaFayetteReneauFingerL,NY★★101112V.gd

CABS,MERLOT,CHARDandRIES.Innwithsceniclakeviews.ChateauO’BrienVAEstablished2005;promisingCHARD,PETIT

MANSENG,PETITVERDOT,CABFRandTANNAT.ChesterGapVA1112High-altitudewines,inclfineVIOGNIER,

MANSENG,ROUSSANNE,CABFR,PETITVERDOTandapowerhouseredblend.

ChrysalisVA★★101112BenchmarkVIOGNIER,Norton;v.gdPETITMANSENG,ALBARIÑO,TANNATandPETITVERDOT.

DelaplaneVA101112Up-and-comingwinerywithnotableCHARD,VIOGNIER,andBordeaux-styleredblends.

FingerLakesNYPastoralregioninupstateNYencompassing11glaciallakes,thoughmostofthe120wineriesclusteraroundfourmajorones.KnownespeciallyforRIES;topwineriesinclANTHONYROAD,BloomerCreek,CHATEAULAFAYETTERENEAU,

DR.KONSTANTINFRANK,FOXRUN,HEART&HANDS,HERMANNJWIEMER,HERONHILL,KEUKALAKEVINEYARDS,KINGFERRY,Lakewood,LAMOREAUXLANDING,Ravines,REDNEWT,RedTailRidge,SHELDRAKEPOINT,STANDINGSTONEandSwedishHill.

FoxRunFingerL,NY★★09101112HelpedraisebarforqualityintheFingerL.FineRIES,CHARD,GEWURZ,PINOTN.Winery,caféoverlookscenicLakeSeneca.

Frank,Dr.Konstantin(ViniferaWineCellars)FingerL,NY★★★★0809101112HistoricFINGERLAKESestate(celebrated50yrsin2012)remainsaleaderintheeast,withexcellentRies,GEWURZ;gdCHARD,GRÜNERVELTLINERandRKATSITELI.FineChateauFranksparkling.

GeorgiaNowoveradozenwineries.ThreeSisters(Dahlonega),HabershamV’ydsandChâteauÉlan(Braselton):Southernsplendourwithv’yds,wineandaresort.

GlenManorVineyardsVA★101112Gd,flintySAUVBLand

age-worthyBordeauxvarietalblends.GrapesofRothLongI,NY★★★WOLFFERESTATEwinemaker

RomanRothalsohashisownventure,turningoutnoteworthyRIES,amongotherwines.

Hamptons,The(akaSouthFork)LI,NYCoastalNYAVAwiththreewineries:CHANNINGDAUGHTERS,DuckwalkandWÖLFERESTATE.

Heart&HandsFingerL,NY★★★SmalloperationspecializinginRIESandPINOTN.

HermannJWiemerFingerL,NY★→★★09101112Established1976;nowoneofthepremierestatesintheeast.SuperiorRIES,CHARD,GEWURZ,alsov.gdsparklingwineandlate-harvestRies.

HeronHillFingerL,NY★101112EstateandinformalcaféwithviewsofKeukaLake.NotableRIESanddessertwines.

HillsboroughVA★1112OneofVIRGINIA’smostpromising

wineries,withfineROUSSANNE,PETITMANSENG,PETITVERDOT,TANNAT,FERSERVADOUandCABSAUV.

HortonVA101112EarlyVIRGINIAvisionary(firstvintage91).GdVIOGNIER,Norton.

HudsonRiverRegionNYBorderstheHudsonRiver90minutes’drivenorthofManhattan.HometosomeofAmerica’soldestv’yds(firstvinesplantedbyFrenchHuguenots1677).AlongwithneighbouringCatskillsregionnowhas38wineries.MillbrookandWhitecliffareleaders.

JeffersonVA★101112MinutesawayfromThomasJefferson’sMonticelloestate.FinePINOTGR,VIOGNIER,Bordeauxblend,alsogdCHARDandMERLOT.

KeswickVA★★101112V.gdVIOGNIER,TOURIGA,plusCABSAUV.

KeukaLakeVineyardsFingerL,NY★★1112Tinyoperationwithexcellentv’yd-designatedRIESandotheraromaticwhites.

KingFamilyVineyardsVA★★101112ToothsomeMeritage,finePETITVERDOT,lusciousVIOGNIER/PETITMANSENGdessertwine.

KingFerryFingerL,NY★★★101112V.fineRIES,CHARD,Meritage.Exceptionaldessertwines,incllate-harvestVignolesandRies.

LakeErieTri-stateAVA,inclportionsofNY,PENNSYLVANIA,OHIO.Risingstars,incl21BrixinNYappellation(excellentRIES,GEWURZ,CHARD,PINOTN);MazzaChautauquaCellars,withsisterwineryinNY:PINOTG,Icewine,high-qualityeaudevie).

LamoureauxLandingFingerL,NY★★★09101112Handsomewinerywithsuperblakeviews.SomeofNY’sbestChard,plusexcellentRIES,GEWURZandCABFR.

LenzLongI,NY★★09101112OneoftopproducersinNORTHFORKAVA.Excellentbrutsparklingwine,CHARD,GEWURZ,CABsandMERLOT.

LindenVA★★10111260mileswestofWashingtonDC.Founded1981,oneofVIRGINIA’sbestandmostinfluentialestates,withnotablemtnwinesinclzestySAUVBL,alsoCABFR,PETITVERDOT,Bordeaux-styleredblends.

LongIslandNYEasyaccessfromNYC.Oneofearliestwineregionsintheeast(firstwineryestablished1973;73now,andgrowing).ThreeAVAs:LONGISLAND,NORTHFORKandTHEHAMPTONS),withmostestatesonNORTHFORK.LeadersinclGRAPESOFROTH,Jamesport,Rafael,SherwoodHouse.AlsoBouké,ClovisPoint,ComtesseThérèse,MarthaClara,Paumanok,Raphael,Roanoke,ShinnEstate,SPARKLINGPOINTEandWÖLFFERESTATE.

MarylandWith60wineries,topestatesinclBlackAnkle,KnobHall,SerpentRidge,Slack,SugarloafandBordeleau.VenerableBoordyandElkRunhaverisentonewlevelsofquality.

MichaelShaps/VirginiaWineworksVA★★★09101112One

ofbestVIOGNIERsintheeast.AlsocomplexCHARD,notablePETITVERDOT,CABFR,MERLOT,fineMeritage,plusdessert-styleRaisind’ÊtremadewithdriedPetitVerdotandCabFrgrapes.

Michigan101wineries:BelLago,BlackStar,BowersHarbor,Brys,ChateauFontaine,ChateauGrandTraverse,FennValley,TaborHill,LMawbyandStJulianleadingthepackandturningoutimpressiveRIES,GEWURZandPINOTGR;v.gdCABFRandblends.Alsonotable:ChateauChantal,CircaEstate,45North,LawtonRidge,LeftFootCharley,Longview,2Lads.Up-and-coming:Boathouse,Veraterra.

MillbrookHudsonR,NY★1012HudsonValleyestatewithnewRIESv’yd.DecentCHARD,MERLOT,CABFR.

MissouriTheUniversityofMissourihasanewexperimentalwinerytotesttechniquesandgrapevarietiesinlocalconditions.Bestsofar:SEYVALBL,VIDAL,Vignoles(sweetanddryversions)andChambourcin.StoneHillinHermannproducesv.gd

Chardonel(afrost-hardyhybridofSeyvalBlandCHARD),NortonandgdSeyvalBlandVIDALBLANC.HermannhofisalsodrawingnoticeforVignoles,ChardonelandNorton.Alsonotable:StJamesforVignoles,Seyval,Norton;MountPleasantinAugustaforrichfortifiedandNorton;AdamPuchtaforfortifiedsandNorton,Vignoles,VidalBlanc;AugustaWineryforChambourcin,Chardonel,Icewine;LesBourgeois:gdSYRAH,Norton,Chardonel,Montelle,v.gdCynthianaandChambourcin.

ThefirstAVA,Augusta,wasestablishedinMissouriin1980.

NewJerseyLeadingwineriesinthissmallstateareCapeMay(CHARD,CABSSAUVandFR,PINOTGRIGIO),Unionville(Chard,PinotGrigio,PINOTN)andALBA(outstandingdryGEWURZ,RIES,Chard,plusthelargestplantingofPinotNontheEastCoast).

NewYork(NY)Dynamicwine-producingstate(no.3inUSAwith

321wineries).Amorediverselandscapethananyotherintheeast.RegionsinclFINGERLAKES,LONGISLAND,HUDSONRIVERandCatskills,CentralNY,LAKEERIE,NiagaraEscarpment,GreaterAdirondacks,LakeOntario,LakeChamplain,ThousandIslands,NYCity.

NorthCarolinaThissouthernstatenowhas115wineries,inclBiltmore,Childress,Duplin(formuscadine),HanoverPark,IronGate,LaurelGray,McRitchie,OldNorthState,RagApple,RayLen,Raffaldini,Shelton,Westbend.Topvarieties:CHARD,VIOGNIER,CABFRandnativemuscadine.

NorthForkLongI,NYPopulargetawaydestinationforManhattanites.AmongtopestatesareBEDELL,Jamesport,Lieb,LENZ,PALMER,PAUMANOK,PELLEGRINI,Pindar,SPARKLINGPOINTE.

Ohio179wineries,fiveAVAs.SomeexceptionalPINOTGR,RIES,PINOTN,Icewine.Topproducers:Breitenbach,Debonné,

Ferrante,Firelands,Harpersfield,Henke,KinkeadRidge,Markko,PaperMoon,StJosephandValleyV’yds.

PaumanokLongI,NY★★★101112Family-runNORTHFORKestate,oneoffirstonLONGISLAND(founded1982).QualityRIES,CHARD,MERLOT,CABs,andPETITVERDOT.ExceptionalCHENINBL.

PellegriniLongI,NY★★101112Beautifullydesignedwinery,gdPETITVERDOT,CHARDandCABFR.

PennsylvaniaTopestates:Blair(burgundy-styledPINOTN,CHARD),Allegro(benchmarkredBordeauxblend),GalenGlen(GRÜNERVELTLINERandZWEIGELT),Karamoor(CABFR,redblends),ManatawnyCreek(Chard,GEWURZ,PINOTGRIGIO,CabFr,Meritage),PennsWood(Chard,PinotGrigio,MERLOT,Cabs)Waltz(Chard,Cabs),VaLa(interestingItalianvarieties).

PollackVA★101112SuperiorVIRGINIAwinery(founded2003)withoutstandingCHARD,PINOTGR,PETITVERDOT,CABFR,CABSAUV,MERLOT,Meritage,VIOGNIER.

RavinesFingerL,NY★★★101112Smallbutfast-growingproducerofexceptionalviniferawines,espv’yd-designatedRies.

RDVVA★★★09101112Fledglingestate(opened2011)butalreadygarneringkudosforexceptional,complexandvelvetyBordeauxblends.

RedNewtFingerL,NY★★101112OneoftheFINGERLAKES’firstqualityestates,withsuperbRIES,outstandingCHARD,GEWURZ,CABFR,MERLOTandBordeaux-inspiredblend.Finebistroforregionalfood.

SheldrakePointFingerL,NY★★★101112BeautifullysituatedwineryandbistroontheshoreofLakeCayuga.OutstandingRIES,GEWURZ,CABFRandCABSAUV.AlsogdPINOTGR.

SparklingPointeLongI,NY★★→★★★AfledglingLONGISLANDestate,whichspecializesinhigh-qualitysparklingwines

withbottleagefromFrenchwinemakerGillesMartin.StandingStoneFingerL,NY★101112V.gdRIES,GEWURZ,

CHARDandCABSAUV.UnionvilleVineyardsNJ★NoteableCHARD,RIES;fineBordeaux-

stylered.VeritasVA★101112Fineproducerwithexcellentsparkling,

SAUVBL,CHARD,VIOGNIER,CABFR,PETITMANSENG,PETITVERDOT.

VillaAppalacciaVA★101112InthescenicBlueRidgeMts,wineswithatasteofItaly,inclPRIMITIVO,SANGIOVESE,PINOTGRandaMALVASIABiancablend.

VirginiaOneofthefastest-growingwine-producingstatesintheeast,with214wineries.Overallqualityhasskyrocketed,withwinesofrealstyleandelegancenow;espgdVIOGNIER,PETITMANSENG,CABFR,TANNAT.

WisconsinBestisWollersheimWinery,specializinginvariations

ofMaréchelFoch.PrairieFumé(SEYVALBL)isacommercialsuccess.

WölfferEstateLongI,NY★★★091012LovelyTuscan-inspiredestatewithfineCHARD,scintillatingroséandgdMERLOTfromtalentedGerman-bornwinemaker.

THESOUTHWESTTheconstantgrowthoftheSouthwest’swinebusinesscontinues.Tastingroomsareactive,thankstoagro-tourism,ever-improvingwinesandasplashofstatepride.Allthesefactorsallowsmallwineriestothriveeventhoughtheyhavescarceaccesstomajordistribution.Mostofthestateshavewidelyvariedclimateandgrowingconditions.Arizona,Colorado,NewMexico,NevadaandTexasallboastcoolareasathighelevationsaswellashot,drylowlands.Texasisthelargest.Withalmost275wineries,it’sthefifth-largestproducerintheUSA.Coloradohasshownrapidgrowthandnowhasover105wineries,withArizona(63),NewMexico(46),Oklahoma(21),andNevada(3)following.Eachstatefaceshigherdemandthantheycanmeetwiththeirowngrapes,somanyaresupplementingwithWestCoastfruit.IfyourgoalistoevaluatethewinefromanAVA,alwaysaskwherethefruitcomesfrom.

ArizonaArizonaStronghold:★excellentwhiteblendTaziandMerlotNuevo,v.gdRhôneblendcalledNachise.CaduceusCellars:★★ownedbyToolleadsingerMaynardJamesKeenanwithtopredsSancha,AnubisandNagualdellaNaga.CallaghanV’yds:★★★oneofArizona’sbestwineries,espredblendsPadresandCaitlin’s.Cimarron:labelofDickErathofOregon,producingredblendRojodelSol.DosCabezas:★lookforredblendsCampoandAguileon.LawrenceDunhamV’yds:gdVIOGNIERandv.gdPETITESIRAH.LightningRidge:★MONTEPULCIANOideallysuitedtoArizonaterroir,andv.gdredblendResonance.PageSprings:Rhône-stylewhiteandredwines,plusv.gdPetiteSirah.PillsburyWineCompany:filmmakerSamPillsburymakesexcellentWildChildWhite.Sonoita:apioneerofArizonawineswithgdSYRAH,COLOMBARD,CABSAUV.

Arizona’smajorgrowingareasareallinthehighdesert.

BeckerVineyardsTex★★→★★★★Superbcollectionofinterestingwines.EspCABSAUVResWilmethV’yds,CanadaFamilyCabSauv,NewsomCabSauv,ResVIOGNIER,MALBEC,Clementine.

BrennanVineyardsTex★ExcellentVIOGNIER,v.gdCABSAUVandSYRAH.

BrushyCreekTexOwnedbyanuclearphysicistwholikestoexperiment.Wineschangeonanannualbasis,butRhônevarietalsalwaysgd.

CapRockTexMuch-medalledHighPlainswinerywithremarkableRoussanne.

ColoradoBookcliff:★★excellentBordeauxblendcalledEnsemble,v.gdPETITESIRAHandSYRAH.BoulderCreek:★excellentredblendsConsensusandResClaretplusv.gddryrosé.CanyonWind:v.gdPETITVERDOTandBordeauxblends.Creekside:★award-winningCABFRandSyrah.Garfield

Estates:v.gdSAUVBL,CabFr,Syrah.Graystone:specializesinPort-styles,allv.gd,richaftertaste.GrandeRiver:SauvBl,VIOGNIER,PetitVerdot,MALBEC.GuyDrew:★★excellentGEWURZ,CHARD,Syrah,Metate.InfiniteMonkeyTheorem:topredblend100thMonkey.JackRabbitHill:biodynamicandorganic,RIES,M&N.StoneyMesa/Ptarmigan:RIES,Gewurz,MERLOT,CABSAUV.TwoRivers:★excellentRies,v.gdChard,Syrah.WineryatHolyCross:★★excellentCabFr,SyrahandsweetMerlotcalledDivinity.

DuchmanTex★★→★★★AmongTexas’sbest;nr-perfectVERMENTINOandDOLCETTO.

FallCreekV’ydsTex★→★★★OneofTexas’soldestwineries.GorgeousSaltLickTEMPRANILLO,consistentlyexcellentBordeauxblendMeritusandoccasionallyburgundianResCHARD.

HaakWineryTex★GdMALBEC,dryBlancduBois;oneofUS’s

best“Madeira”copies.InwoodEstatesTex★★ExceptionalTEMPRANILLOandv.gd

PALOMINO/CHARDblend.LlanoEstacadoTex★★OneofTexas’searliestandlargest

wineries.V.gdViviana(w)andViviano(r),Port-style.LoneOakTex★InBurleson.V.gdTEMPRANILLO,gdMERLOT.McPhersonCellarsTex★★OwnerKimMcPhersonwasfirstbig

award-winnerinTexas.DeliciousRoséofSYRAH,excellentROUSSANNE.

MessinaHofWineCellarsTex★ExcellentRIES,esplate-harvest.V.gdPapaPaoloPort-stylewines.

WinewasmadefromviniferagrapesinRioGrandeValley,Texas,asearlyas1620s.

NevadaTahoeRidge,previouslyChurchillV’yds:GdResZIN,

PETITESIRAH.PahrumpValley:quiteashowplace,withrestaurant.GdSymphony,Zin.

NewMexicoBlackMesa:★★Coyote,PETITESIRAH,WoodnymphRIES.CasaAbrilV’yds:MALBEC,ZIN,TEMPRANILLO.Gruet:★★★★excellentsparklingwines,espBlancdeNoirs,alsoexcellentCHARD,PINOTN.LunaRossa:★v.gdMONTEPULCIANO,CABSAUV.MathesonWinery:Chard,CabSauv,sweetDoce.NoisyWater:★espChard.PonderosaValley:v.gdChardandsweetwhitecalledLaNovia.SouthwestWines:★espChardandBlueTealMOSCATO.

OklahomaChapelCreek:★★excellentMUSCAT,v.gdVIDAL,CHARD.GreenfieldV’yd:gdMERLOT,SAUVBL.StoneBluffCellars:gdVignoles,Cynthiana,Chardonel.PonderosaValley:★★espRIESandCABSAUV.TheRangeV’yd:gdTraminetteandMuscatBlanc.WhisperingMeadows:★v.gdCab.

PedernalesCellarsTex★GARNACHADryRoségreatforahot

Texasafternoon.V.gdVIOGNIER.MERLOTisthebestbuyonthelist.

SpicewoodVineyardsTex★★ExceptionalSancerre-likeSAUVBLandv.gdSÉM.

ValVerdeTexrwfourth-generationtradition.V.gdPort-style;gdCHARD,PINOTGRIGIO.

WilliamChrisWinesTex★IntinyHye,thiswineryisalreadyconsideredoneofTexas’sfinest.BestbuysareredblendsEmotionandEnchante.

Mexico

Nearly55,000haofwinegrapesareplantedinMexico.PrinciplevinesincludeChardonnay,SauvignonBlanc,CabernetSauvignon,Syrah,GrenacheandPetiteSirah.RubyCabernet,ahybrid,isalsowidelyplanted.Muchoftheproductiongoesintobrandy.GrapeswereplantedinMexicoshortlyaftertheSpanishconquest.Thefirstwinery,HaciendaSanLorenzo,wasestablishedin1597.It’snowcalledCasaMaderoandisstillinproductionintheParrasValley.Althoughthecentreisthehistoricwine-growingregionofMexico,qualityisoftenspotty.ThebesthopeforqualitywineisinthecoastalvalleysofNorthernBaja,especiallytheGuadalupeValleysoutheastofTijuana.Althoughthetemperaturecanreach38°C,coolingPacificwindscandropthetemperaturebyupto16°Caftersunset.Inthepastdecades,therehasbeenanexplosionofboutique

wineries,someshowinggoodquality.Ingeneral,thesenew-waveBajawinesareonlyavailablelocally.

BodegasSantoTomas★★TheoldestwineryinBaja,foundedin1888,hasahugeportfolioofwines,coveringallpossiblebases.BestofferingsareTEMPRANILLO,CABSAUVandSAUVBL.

CasadePiedra★★★Artisanproducermakingonlytwowines,VinodePiedra,av.gdblendofCABSAUVandTEMPRANILLOandPiedradelSol,aCHARD.

ChâteauCamou★→★★Thefocushereisondevelopingv’ydblocksforblending.TopmarkstotheGranVinoTinto,avelvetyandbalancedCABSAUV-basedblend,withasupple,elegantfinish.TheGranVinoTintoZINisapowerfulstatementofthevariety.

LACetto★→★★★Baja’slargestwinery,establishedin1928,offersarangeofwinesfromsimplequaffstomorecomplexCAB

SAUVandZINfromspecificv’yds.DonLuisistopofthelinewithav.gdCabSauvblendandafloralVIOGNIER.

MonteXanic★★→★★★Establishedin1987,MonteXanicquicklybuiltareputationfortopquality;theCABSAUVisexcellent,deeplyflavouredwithalongfinish;alsoav.gdMERLOT.CHENINBL,withadashofCOLOMBARD,isadelightfulapéritif.

TheNewWorld’sfirstwinery.HaciendaSanLorenzo,wasestablishedinMexicoin1597.

Rognato★★→★★★SmallnewwinerymakingexcellentCABSAUVandasuperredblendcalledTramonte,withlayersofflavourandalastingfinish.Gdpropectsforthefuture.

TresMujeres★★→★★★GdexampleofthenewwaveofartisanproducersinBaja.ExcellentTEMPRANILLOandv.gdGRENACHE/CABSAUVblendLaMezcladelRancho.

VinosBibayoff★★→★★★V’ydswerefirstplantedinthe19thcenturybyRussianimmigrants.Hillsidevinesaredry-farmed.OutstandingZINandav.gdZin/CABSAUVblend.ZestyCHENINBL.

Canada

CanadianwinecontinuestoflourishnotonlyfromitshistoricfootholdsinOntario’sNiagararegionandBritishColumbia’sOkanaganValley,butfromnewvineyardspoppinguponvirginterroiracrossthecountry.Canadanowboastswellover550estatewineriesfromcoasttocoast,andawidevarietyoftablewines,includingmodestamountsofitsiconicIcewine.Themajorityofproductionisredandwhite.Itismostlydry,andinthecaseofmanywhites,aromatic,withnicheamountsofsparklingwine.Thestyleisfresh,cool-climate,food-friendly–andthankfully,beginningtoreflectitsorigins.Whilethecountry’snewestproducersareonlybeginningtodiscovertheirpotential,moreestablishedproducersarerefiningtheirselection.InOntario,Chardonnay,Riesling,PinotNoirandCabernetFrancaremaking

moves,whileinBritishColumbiathestarsarePinotGris,Chardonnay,SyrahandMerlot,withasmatteringofaromaticwhiteblends.FromtheAtlanticcoast,NovaScotiacontinuestohoneimpressivesparklingwineandasmallmixofaromaticwhites.

OntarioFourappellationsoforigin,alladjacenttoLakesOntarioandErie:NiagaraPeninsula,LakeErieNorthShore,PeleeIsland,PrinceEdwardCounty.WithinNiagaraPeninsulathevineyardsarefurthersub-dividedintotengrowingareas.

13thStreetrwsp★★★091011(12)Jean-PierreColasusesestateandpurchasedfruit.Impressivesmall-batchlotsofGAMAY,CHARD,RIES,SAUVBL,SYRAH;sparkling.

CaveSpringrwswsp★★★091011(12)ArespectedproducerofbenchmarkRIES,espCSV(oldvines)andEstatelabels,elegant,old-vinesCHARD,exceptionallate-harvestandIcewines.

ChateaudesCharmesrwsw★★1011(12)30yrsontheBoscfamilyfarms114hainNiagara-on-the-Lake.ExcellentRiesfrombone-drytoIcewine.Equuleus,PaulBoscEstateV’ydisa

standout.Bordeaux-stylered.ColaneriEstateWineryrwsw★★091011(12)Winemaker

AndrejLipinskiisusingamixofappassimento,ripassoandreciotomethods(seeValpolicella,Italy)onPINOTGR,GEWURZ,CABFR,VIDALandv.gdVisoneSYRAH.

Creeksiderw★★★091011(12)GdbuzzforBrokenPress,ResSHIRAZ,redblends,CHARD,excellentSAUVBL;organic,single-barrelUndercurrentlotsmakingwaves.

FlatRockrw★★091011(12)Crisp,modern,cool-climatestyleRIES,PINOTNandCHARD.Single-blockNadja’sRiesisastandout.

HenryofPelhamrwswsp★★091011(12)Family-run,Niagara-centric;CHARDandRIES;uniqueBacoNoirandRiesIcewine.GreatfizzCuvéeCatherineBrutandtopSpeckFamilyRes(SFR).

Inniskillinrwsw★★091011(12)ThepioneerIcewinehouseis

changingfocusunderwinemakerBruceNicholson.LookfordeliciousRIES,PINOTGR,PINOTN,superCABFRandspecialityRIESandVIDALIcewine.

Jackson-Triggsrw★★091011(12)State-of-the-artwineryinNiagara-on-the-Lake.DelaineV’yd,GoldSeriesspecialselectionlabelCHARD,PINOTN,SHIRAZleadpack.

LeClosJordannerw★★★08091011(12)Craftsexcellentorganicburgundian-stylePINOTNandCHARDinthreetiers:VillageRes,SingleV’ydandGrandClos.

Malivoirerw★★★0708091011(12)Innovative,gravity-flowwinery;v.gdorganicPINOTN,CHARD,GAMAY,GEWURZandtopTêtedeCuvéeintinyquantities.

RavineVineyardrw★★★091011(12)The14haStDavid’sBenchsiteisoveranancientNiagaraRiverwatercourse.DeliciousdrinkingSandandGravelRedCoatblendandv.gdCHARDandCABFR.

Stratusrw★★★0708091011(12)IconoclastJLGrouxguidestheLEEDS-certified(ie.green)winerywithflagshipwhiteandredassemblageblends;v.gdRIES,SYRAH.

Tawserw★★★★091011(12)AmongCanada’sfinest;outstandingCHARD,RIES;high-qualityPINOTN,CABFR,MERLOT;v’ydscertifiedorganicandbiodynamic.

ThirtyBenchWineMakersrw★★091011(12)Impressivesingle-lotestatev’ydsfrom27hasiteintheBeamsvilleBenchappellation;standoutold-vineRIESandCABFR,MERLOTandPINOTN.

Vinelandrwsw★★★07091011(12)Beautifulcountryestatewithafirst-classrestaurant.FineRIES,IcewineandBordeaux-stylereds.

BritishColumbiaBChasidentifiedfiveappellationsoforigin:OkanaganValley,SimilkameenValley,FraserValley,VancouverIslandandtheGulfIslands.

BlueMountainrwsp★★★08091011(12)Respectedproducerofsparkling;high-quality,age-worthyPINOTN,GAMAY,CHARD,PINOTGR.OutstandingResPinotN.

BurrowingOwlrw★★091011(12)PioneerSouthOkanaganestate;excellentCABFRandv.gdPINOTGR,SYRAH;acclaimedboutiquehotelandrestaurant.

CedarCreekrw★★★091011(12)Terrificaromaticline-upledbyRIES,GEWURZ,Ehrenfelser.SolidMERLOT;top-endPlatinumVIOGNIER,CHARD,SYRAH,PINOTN.

ChurchandStateWinesrw★★091011(12)Stylishnew

CoyoteBowlwineryinSouthOkanaganmakingTreBella(whiteRhôneblend)CHARD,VIOGNIER,SYRAH;signatureredBordeauxblendisQuintessential.

HesterCreekrw★★091011(12)State-of-the-artfacilities,six-suiteguestvillaandrestaurantwelcomevisitors.ElectricTREBBIANOfrom40-yr-oldvines,aromaticPINOTGR,PINOTBLandCABFR.

Jackson-TriggsOkanaganrwsw★★091011(12)Popular,easy-drinkingstylewithgdSHIRAZ,Meritage(seeCalifornia)andoutstandingRIESIcewine.ImpressiveRhône-styleSunRockSHIRAZ.

MissionHillrw★★★08091011(12)Architecturallystunning.V.gdResvarietalseriesandLegacySeries:Perpetua,Oculus,QuatrainandCompendium.Award-winningalfrescodining.

Nk'Miprw★★091011(12)Partof$25mAboriginalresort,spa.FinePINOTBL,RIES,PINOTN;top:QwamQwmtPinotN;

SYRAH.DesertCulturalCentreisamust-visit.OsoyoosLaroser★★★0708091011(12)Abenchmark,single-

v’yd,age-worthyBordeauxblendcreatedbyGroupeTaillanandConstellationBrands.ThesecondlabelisPétalesd’Osoyoos.

PaintedRockrw★★★1011(12)Steep-sloped24haSkahaBenchsiteunderguidanceofconsultantAlainSutre(Bordeaux):v.gdSYRAH,CHARD,redblend.

PentâgeWineryrw★★1011(12)5,000-caseSkahaBenchproducermakingfineVIOGNIER,PINOTGR,GEWURZandexcitingnewredandwhiteRhône-styleblends.

Quails’Gaterw★★08091011(12)Family-ownedestatemakingterroir-basedPINOTNandexcellentRes.CHARD,aromaticRIES,CHENINBL,withcult-likefollowingforitsOld-VinesFoch.

RedRoosterrw★★1011(12)Fresh,aromatic,balancedwinesarethesignatureofthisNaramataBenchproducer.Top:CHARD,

PINOTGR,RIESandMERLOT.Road13rw★★★091011(12)WinemakerJMBouchardis

rockingSouthOkanaganwithold-vineCHENINBL,SYRAH,whiteandredRhôneblendsandPINOTN.

Tantalusrw★★★08091011(12)LEED-certifiedfacilitycomplementsoneoftheoldest(1927)continuouslyproducingv’yds.Non-interventionistPINOTNandRIESarethestory.ResRiesisv.gd.

SouthAmerica

RecentvintagesTodayvintagesdiffermorethantheyusedto–certainlyinthenewer,moremarginalareas.ButthedifferencesarestillsmallcomparedwiththoseofclassicEuropeanregions.Fewwinesrewardlongageing;theappealofSouthAmericaisthatofyouth,vigour,vibrancy.Currentvintagesaregenerallybestforallbuttopreds.

CHILEChilemighthavemadeitsreputationabroadwithMerlotandCabernetfitforchocoholics,butthingshaveevolvedsincethen.MerlothasgivenwaytoCarmenèreinthefashionstakes,andwhileMaipostillseemstobetopsforCabernet,coolerregionsaremakingSyrahsthatrecalltheRhôneonemomentandthecoolerpartsofAustraliathenext–inotherwordstheyhavetheirownstyle.And,fromElquiandLimarí,aviolets-and-black-oliveflavourthatcanbethrilling.SauvignonBlancfromLeyda,Limaríandothercoastalregionslikewisecombinescrispnesswithripenesswithoutgettingshrill.Thesearethenewestregions,andwhiletherearestillplentyofsoftlyripeandoakywinesavailable,it’sclearthatChileisheadingawayfromoakandtowardselegance.Withalcohol,though.ThelightinChileisdazzling,andeventhecoolerregionsarenotallthatcool.Highalcoholispartofthepackage.Thetrick

forproducersismakingwineswithgoodenoughbalanceforitnottoshow.

AconcaguaTherivermoderatestheclimateofthiswarmregion,traditionallyasourceofsturdyreds.Newcoastalv’ydslookinteresting.SYRAHhasstarquality.

AlmavivaMai★★★★Expensivebutclassyclaret-stylered,CONCHAYTORO/BaronPhilippedeRothschildjointventure.AlsoEpuredblendisv.gd.

AltaïrRap★★★Complex,earthy,CABSAUV/SYRAH/CARMENÈREblendwithPascalChatonnetofBordeauxasconsultant.Secondlabel:Sideral,earlier-drinking.

AltoLasGredas★★★Owner-winemakerMaríaVictoriaPetermannmakesonlythistopCHARDfrom2hainAraucania.Tense,mineralandtasty.

AnakenaCach,Col,Ley★→★★Solidrange.FlagshipONA

labelincludespunchySYRAH;ENCOResChard,PINOTNalsogd;single-v’ydbottlingPlotLilénVIOGNIER.

AntiyalMai★★→★★★Biodynamicspecialistmakingfine,complexredblendfromCARMENÈRE,CABSAUV,SYRAH.VarietalCarmenèreViñedoEscorialisoneofthebest.

ApaltaguaRap★★→★★★CARMENÈREspecialistdrawingonold-vinefruitfromApalta(Colchagua).Grialisrich,herbalflagshipwine(theResisalsogd).

Aquitania,ViñaMai★★★Chilean/Frenchjointventure:excellentSoldeSolCHARD,v.gdPINOTN(TheMalleco);v.gdagedLazuliCABSAUVfromQuebradadeMacul.

Arboleda,ViñaAco,Casa,Ley★★→★★★PartoftheERRÁZURIZ/CALITERRAstable,withwhitesfromLeydaandCASABLANCA.AlsotrytheyoungestSAUVBLandreds(CABSAUV,SYRAH,MERLOT)fromAconcagua,inclexcellentCARMENÈRE.

AristosCach,Mai★★→★★★TerroirspecialistPedroParraand

twoFrenchwinemakersmakeintriguingDuquesaCHARD,twoclassyCABS(Duqued’AandBarónd’A),withaSYRAH/PETITESIRAHbubblingunder.SomefruitsourcedfromCALYPTRA.

Futrono,350kmsouthofBío-Bío,islatestcoolregion.Penguin-spotting,anyone?

Bío-BíoSouthernregion,coolenoughforinterestingRIES,GEWURZandPINOTN.Promisingforfizz,too.

BotalcuraCur★★FrenchwinemakerPhilippeDebrusmakesbigreds,inclNEBBIOLO.TryyoungandcheapPorfíaGResMALBEC.

CaliboroMau★★★FrancescoMaroneCinzanoisthesoulofErasmo,arefinedCABSAUV,CABFR,MERLOTblend,andarareLateHarvestTorontel.

CaliterraCasa,Col,Cur,Ley★→★★SisterwineryofERRÁZURIZ.CHARDandSAUVBLimproving,redsbecomingless

one-dimensional,espTributorangeandflagshipredCenit.Bio-Surisorganicrange.

CalyptraCach★★★FrenchmanFrançoisMassocmakesexcellentZahirCABSAUV,GranResCHARD,gdSAUVBLfrom900metrev’yd.AmongbestofCachapoal.

Carmen,ViñaCasa,Col,Elq,Mai★★→★★★Organicpioneer;sameownershipasSANTARITA.Ripe,freshCASABLANCACHARDSpecialRes;v.gdredslikePETITESYRAHandMERLOT,andtopChileanCABSAUVGoldRes.

CasablancaThiswasascoolasChilegot10yrsago;nownewerregionsarecooler,Casablancaispracticallytraditional.GdCHARD,SAUVBL;promisingMERLOT,PINOTN.

CasaMarínSanA★★★V.gdRIES,GEWURZ,PINOTN;superbSAUVBL.TodayMiramarV’ydSYRAHisamust.

PinotcoolsdownChile’stopPINOTNhaveshedtheexcessoakandstrawberryjamandgainedcrispness,savouryfruitandterroirexpressionthatwoulddocredittoBurgundy.TryFALERNIA,SANPEDRO,CasaSilva(espCoolCoast),CASAMARÍN,CLOSDESFOUS,MATETIC,MAYCASDELLIMARÍ,OuterLimits(terrific),TABALÍ.

CasasdelBosqueCach,Casa★★→★★★Sincethe2010vintageNZGrantPhelps(ex-VIUMANENT)iswinemaker.Elegantrange,inclSYRAHResandniceSAUVBL.

CasaSilvaCol★★★Grown-upwinesfromthisColchaguaestate,withv’ydsinthecoastalzoneofParedones(v.gdSAUVBL).Winesofgreatfinesseandterroirexpression:CoolCoastandGranTerroirrangesdoexactlywhattheysay.LookoutforSauvignonGris.

ClosdesFousCach,Casa★★Specialistsinextremesouthernterroirs;natural(seeFrance),minimalintervention.

ClosOuvertMau★★Newwinery;naturalwinemaking(seeFrance).Interestingwines:Huaso(Païs),redblendOtonoandLouisAntoineLuytCARMENÈRE(MAULE).

ConchayToro★→★★★YoucanlearnalmosteverythingaboutChileanwineshere.Don´tmissTerrunyorange:outstandingSAUVBL,plusRIES,CABSAUV,CARMENèREandSYRAH;classicCABSAUVMarquesdeCasaConcha(PuenteAlto)andDonMelchor(MAIPO).AsloIconCarmenèreCarmín(Peumo),subtleCHARDAmelia(CASABLANCA),remarkableMaycasChardandPINOTN(Limarí),newSeriesRiberasMALBEC(Colchagua).PlusvarietalsandblendsTrioandCasillerodelDiablo.SeealsoALMAVIVA,TRIVENTO(Argentina).

ConoSurCasa,Col,Bío★★→★★★V.gdPINOTN,headedbyOcio.Othertopreleases:20BarrelsSelection(MERLOT,CAB

SAUV);newinnovationscalledVisión(Bío-BíoRIESSingleV’ydBlock23issuperb).AlsointheResEspeciallookfordense,fruityCabSauv,deliciousVIOGNIER,rose-petalGEWURZ,impressiveSYRAH.Secondlabel:IslaNegra;ownedbyCONCHAYTORO.

CousiñoMaculMai★★HistoricSantiagowinery.ReliableAntiguasResMERLOT;zestySauvignonGris;top-of-the-rangeLotanowoneofbestblendsinChile.

DeMartinoCach,Elq,Mai,Mau★★→★★★Subtlewinemaking(topredsnowseenonewoak),best-knownforsingle-v’yd,old-vineCARMENÈRE,CABSAUV,MALBEC,CHARD,butalsoimpressingwithLegadorange,VignoCARIGNAN.CINSAULTisthehottestgrapehere,espViejasTinajasmadetheoldwayintinajas,bigclayjars.

ElquiNorthernregioncooledbyseabreezes;v’ydaltitudesrangefrom350–2,200metres(Chile’shighest);brilliantSYRAH,top

PINOTN,SAUVBL.EmilianaCasa,Rap,Bío★→★★★Organic/biodynamic

specialistinvolvingAlvaroEspinoza(seeANTIYAL).Complex,SYRAH-heavy“G”andCoyamshowalmostMediterranean-stylewildness;cheaperAdobeandNovasrangesv.gdforaffordablecomplexity.

ErrázurizAco,Casa★→★★★BesidesthetopDonMaximiano,andfragrantKAICARMENÈRE,pickthenewwinesfromAconcaguaCoasta(SAUVBLandSYRAH),ortopTheBlend:GRENACHE,MOURVÈDRE,SYRAH,ROUSSANNE.SeealsoARBOLEDA,CALITERRA,SEÑA,VIÑEDOCHADWICK.

Falernia,ViñaElq★★→★★★ELQUIpioneermakingRhône-likeSYRAH,fragrantCARMENÈRE(incladried-grapeversion)andtangySAUVBL;alsocomplexredblendNumberOne.LabelsinclAltaTierraandMayu.

Fournier,BodegasOLey,Mau★★→★★★Sisterventureof

same-nameArgentinewinery,v’gdLeydaSAUVBLandMAULEredblendsCentauriandAlfaCentauri.

GarcésSilva,ViñaSanA★★→★★★Thebrandatthisno-expense-sparedoperationisAmayna;rich,ripestyleswithabitofalcoholremovedforgdbalance.Bestofbothworlds.SAUVBLisparticularlygd.

HaciendaAraucanoCasa,Rap★★→★★★FrançoisLurton’sChileanenterprise.ComplexGranAraucanoSAUVBL(CASABLANCA),refinedCARMENÈRE/CABSAUVblendClosdeLolol,headyAlkaCarmenère.

HarasdePirqueMai★★→★★★EstateinPirque.TheCharacterSYRAHistop,alsosmokySAUVBL,stylishCHARD,denseCABSAUV/MERLOT.Solid,smokyredAlbis(CabSauv/CARMENÈRE)ismadewithAntinori(seeItaly).

KingstonCasa★★Excitingnewcomer.BestareCariblancoSAUVBL,LuceroSYRAH.

It’swhattheydoinNorfolkIfyouwantagimmick,gotoSouthAmerica.IanHutcheondid(fromNorwich)andnowmakesmeteorite-agedCABSAUVinChile.He’sanastronomer,whichsortofexplainsit.Themeteoriteis4.5billionyrsold;theCabratheryounger.NextupisaredblendsacrificedtotheIncagods.Thebottlesarewrappedincloth,boxedandburiedonMtTunca.Visitorscangoandfindthemanddigthemup.Fun….

LapostolleCach,Casa,Col★★→★★★★ImpressiveFrench-ownedestate;v’ydsbiodynamicallyfarmed.SÉMbestofincreasinglyelegantwhites;CuvéeAlexandreMERLOTandSYRAHandCARMENÈRE-basedClosApaltapickoffinereds.

Leyda,ViñaSanA★★→★★★PioneerincoastalLeyda.ElegantCHARD(Lot5WildYeastsisthepick),lushPINOTN(esp

Lot21cuvéeandlivelyrosé),tangyGarumaSAUVBL,firm,spicyCaneloSYRAH.AlsoniceRIESandSauvignonGris.

LimaríOneofnewcoolareasthatareactuallydeserts;what’snotavineisprobablyacactus.GdforSYRAH,SAUVBLandespCHARD,thankstolimestoneinmanyv’yds.

LomaLargaCasa★★→★★★Av.classicrange.TopChileanMALBECwithoceanicinfluence,andimpressiveCABFRandSYRAH.

MaipoFamouswineregionclosetoSantiago.Chile’sbestCABSAUVsoftencomefromhigher,easternsubregionssuchasPirqueandPuenteAlto.

MateticSanA★★★Starsarefragrant,zestySauvBl(forageing),spicy,berryEQSYRAH.GdPINOTN,CHARDfromexcitingwinery.ThelabelCorralilloisv.consistent.

MauleSouthernmostregioninValleCentral.Claro,Loncomilla,TutuvenValleys.CARIGNANfromCauquenescurrentlyinvogue.

MaycasdelLimaríLim★★→★★★CONCHAYTOROoffshoot;SAUVBL,CHARD,PINOTN,SYRAH:fullflavourswithelegance.QuebradaSecaCHARDtaut,minerallyflagship.

MontesCasa,Col,Cur,Ley★★→★★★★Highlightsofawidefirst-classrangefromafengshuiwinery:AlphaCABSAUV,Bordeaux-blendMontesAlphaM,FollySyrahfromApaltaandintensePurpleAngelCARMENÈRE(founderlikesangels).Alsov.gdSAUVBLandPINOTNfrombothLeydaandnew,coolZapallar.LookforOuterLimitsrangeandSouthern-Rhône-inspiredblend(GRENACHE/CARIGNAN/MOURVÈDRE)inApalta.

MontGrasCol,Ley,Mai★★→★★★Finelimited-editionwines,inclSYRAH,pinkZIN.High-classflagshipsNinquénCABSAUV,AntuNinquénSYRAH.Gd-valueorganicSoleus,gentlebutfineIntriga(MAIPO)CabSauv,ripeSAUVBLfromSANANTONIO.

Montsecano★★★Cool,high-altitude,small-scale,biodynamicPINOTNmadebyfiveChileansandFrenchman,AndréOstertag.

Topstuff.MorandéCasa,Mai★★→★★★BrutNatureNV(CHARD,PINOT

N)isatopsparkling.TakealookatEdiciónLimitadaCARIGNAN(Loncomilla),andspicySYRAH/CABSAUV;topwineisCabSauv-basedHouseofMorandé.

NeyenRap★★★ApaltaprojectforPatrickValetteofFrance’sSt-Émilion;intenseold-vineCARMENÈRE/CABSAUVblend.NowownedbyVERAMONTE.

OdfjellMai,Mau★→★★★Redspecialistwithv.gdCARMENÈRE,CARIGNAN(fromMAULE);picktheyoungOrzadaCARIGNANandentry-levelArmador.

Pargua,ViñaMai★★RefinedredsfromQUEBRADADEMACULwinemaker.ParguaisCARMENÈRE/CABSAUV/CABFRblend,AnkaParguaIImostlyCabFr,CabSauv,MERLOT.

PérezCruz,ViñaMai★★★InterestingChaskiPETITVERDOT,plusEdiciónLimitadaCOTandaspicyCABSAUV.

PolkuraCol★★IndependentandfocusedonMarchigueSYRAH;alsorichMALBEC.

Principal,El★★→★★★Fleshyyetgrown-upCAB/CARMENÈREblendsfromhigh-altitudev’yd:Calicanto,Memorias,ElPrincipal.

QuebradadeMacul,ViñaMai★★→★★★AmbitiouswinerymakinggdCHARD,plusexcellentDomusAurea,oneofthemostelegantandclassicCABSAUVfromChile.

CostadelChileChilehasanewappellationsystem(yes,justwhenyou’dfinallygottogripswiththeold),whichdividesthecountryintoCosta(Coastal),EntreCordilleras(betweentheAndesandtheCoastalRange)andAndes.Theexistingappellationscanmostlybeusedaswell,butthepointis:theAndesandthecoastaremostly

coolerthantheCentralValley.Soifyouwantacool-climatewine,thelabelwillgiveyoumorehelpthanbefore.

RapelQualityregiondivided:Colchagua,Cachapoalvalleys.Best:heartyreds,espCARMENÈRE,SYRAH,butwatchforcoolercoastalsubregionsMarchihue,Paradones.

REMai★★★PabloMORANDÉ’sinnovativenewproject:unusualblendsCabergnan(CABSAUV/CARIGNAN),Pinotel(PINOTN/MOSCATEL).UnorthodoxflavoursnewtoChile.

SanAntonioCoastalregionwestofSantiagobenefitingfromseabreezes;bestforwhites,SYRAHandPINOTN.LoAbarcaistopsite.Leydaisasubregion.

SanPedroCur★→★★★MassiveCuricó-basedproducer.35South(35Sur)foraffordablevarietals;CastillodeMolinaastepup.Bestare1865LimitedEditionreds,KankanadelELQUI

SYRAHandelegantCabodeHornos.UndersameownershipasALTAÏR,VIÑAMAR,MissionesdeRengo,SantaHelena,TARAPACÁ.

SantaAliciaMai★→★★★Redspecialist.Best:firmbutjuicyMillantuCABSAUV-basedflagshipwine,andlithebutstructuredAnkeBlend1(CABFR/PETITVERDOT).

BiggestsingleproducerofPinotNoirin2012?ConoSur(saysConoSur).AllinBurgundyandNZwelldown.

SantaCarolina,Viña★★→★★★Extensiverangefromseveralregions;highlightsaretheSpecialtiesrange(SANANTONIOSAUVBL,LIMARÍCHARD,MAIPOSYRAH);pickCauquenesCARIGNAN,CachapoalMOUVÈDREorRapelPETITVERDOT.VSCblendsatalllevels.NewHerencia(CARMENÈRE)fromPeumoexcellentbutpricey.

SantaRitaMai★★→★★★★Long-establishedMAIPOwinery

workingwithAussieBrianCroser.Best:CasaRealCabSauv;butPehuénandCasaReal(CARMENÈRE),TripleC(CABSAUV/CABFR/Carmenère)andFlorestarangenearlyasgd.TryalsoMedallaRealreds,especiallyCarmenèreandMERLOT.

SeñaAco★★★★EstablishedwithROBERTMONDAVI,butnowwhollyownedbytheChadwickfamilyofERRÁZURIZ,thisblendofBordeauxgrapesfromahillsidev’ydinACONCAGUAholdsitsownagainsttheworld’sbestincomparativetastings.

Tabalí★★→★★★Sourceofrefinedcooler-climatewines,ofteninfluencedbylimestonesoils.Singlev’yd,terroir-drivenTalinayCHARD,SAUVBLandPINOTN.AlsotryPayenSYRAH.

Tarapacá,ViñaCasa,Ley,Mai★★Steadilyimprovinghistoricwinery,partofVSPTgroup.Top:Tara-Pakay(CABSAUV/SYRAH),EtiquetaNegraGranRes(CabSauv).

TerraMaterRap★→★★Winesfromseveralregionsinclv.gdAltumCABSAUV,cola-likeSANGIOVESEandlivelyZIN/SHIRAZ.

TerraNobleMau★→★★TalcawineryspecializingingrassySAUVBLandlight,pepperyMERLOT.Rangenowincludesv.gd,spicyCARMENÈRECA2.

Torres,MiguelCur★★→★★★FreshwhitesincludeNectaríaRIESandgdreds,espsturdyMansodeVelascosingle-v’ydCABSAUVandCARIGNAN-basedCordillera.CondedeSuperundaistopcuvée,alsoorganicrangeTormenta,andEsteladoRoséNVPaïsandpioneeringplantingsintheEmpedradozoneofMAULE.

UndurragaCasa,Ley,Lim,Mai★★RevitalizedMAIPOestate.BestwinesareAltazor(CABSAUV-based),LimaríSYRAHandtheSAUVBLfromLeydaandCASABLANCAundertheTH(TerroirHunter)label;alsoMAULECARIGNAN.TrylivelyBrutRoyalCHARD/PINOTNandTitillumsparklings,andpeachyLateHarvestSÉM.

ValdiviesoCur,SanA★→★★★MajorproducerimpressingwithResandSingleV’ydrange(espCABFRandMALBEC)from

topterroirsaroundChile(LeydaChardespgd),NVredblendCaballoLocoandwonderfulCARIGNAN-basedÉclat.

Vascos,LosRap★→★★★Lafite-RothschildventurenowimprovingitsBordeauxwannabereds.Top:LeDixandGrandeRés.

Ventisquero,ViñaCasa,Col★→★★★Ambitiouswinery;labelsinclChilano,Yali;topwinesaretwoApaltareds:richbutfragrantPangeaSYRAHandCARMENÈRE/SyrahblendVertice.PromisingHerúCASABLANCAPINOTN.GreyrangeinclCarmenère,MERLOT,espjuicyMediterranean-blendGCM(GRENACHE,CARIGNAN,MATARÓ).

VeramonteCasa,Col★★Ripe,elegantredsfromColchagua(Primusblendispick);fresherstylesfromCASABLANCA,whereRitualPINOTNandResSAUVBLstandout.

VillardCasa,Mai★★SophisticatedwinesmadebyFrench-bornThierryVillard.GdMAIPOreds,espPINOTN,MERLOT,EquisCAB

SAUVandCASABLANCAwhites.ViñedoChadwickMai★★★→★★★★StylishCABSAUV

improvingwitheachvintagefromv’ydownedbyEduardoChadwick,chairmanofERRÁZURIZ.

ViuManentCol★★EmergingColchaguawinery.MALBECrangeincludesfragrantViu1,GranResandSecreto.AlsoCARMENÈRE-basedElIncidente;v.gdLateHarvestSÉM.

VonSiebenthalAco★★→★★★Swiss-ownedboutiquewinery.V.gdCarabantesSYRAH,elegantMonteligblend,fine-bonedToknarPETITVERDOTandconcentratedbutv.priceyCARMENÈRE-basedTataydeCristóbal.

VSPTImportantwinegroupwhichownsALTAÏR,ViñaMar,MissionesdeRengo,SANPEDRO,SantaHelena.

ARGENTINAArgentinaiscertainlydynamic,andMalbeciscapableofgreatdiversitywherewinemakersarepreparedtoreinbackonextractionandoakandlettheterroirshinethrough.Cooler,highersitesarethebestforthosewantingfreshnessandelegance:TupungatoinMendozaorRíoNegroinPatagonia.Andit’sworthrememberingthatformanyproducers,oakandextractionequalprestige;themostexpensivewinesareoftenthebiggest.

AchavalFerrerMen★★★Super-concentratedAltamira,BellaVista,Miradorsingle-v’ydMALBECS.QuimeraMALBEC/CAB/MERLOTand“basic”Malbecarewinestocatch.

AleannaMen★★★AlejandroVigil(CATENA)andAdriannaCatenamakeinnovativeEnemigo:tryGranEnemigoblend.

AlpamantaMen★★Organic(becomingbiodynamic)winerywithChileanAlvaroEspinoza(seeANTIYAL)consulting.V.gdtopMALBEC,alsogdentry-levelrangeNatal.

AltaVistaMen★→★★★TheFrenchd’AulanfamilyproducestopAlto(MALBEC/CABSAUV)andatrioofpioneeringsingle-v’ydMalbecs–Alizarine,Serenade(LujándeCuyo)andThemis(UcoValley).AlsonewAtemporalredblendandsparkling.

AltocedroMen★★→★★★OwnerandwinemakerKarimMussiSaffie’strumpcardsareMALBECandTEMPRANILLO,blendedtogetherfortopwineDesnudos.

AltoslasHormigasMen★★→★★★Topsingle-v’ydMALBECbasedonoldValledeUcovines.AlsoimpressivebasicMalbecandBONARDA.ItalianinfluencesfromAttilioPagli,AlbertoAntoniniandothers.

Organic-averseChileisavinousparadise–orsowe’vebeentoldforyrsnow.Inwhichcase,whyareChileangrowerssonervousaboutorganicviticulture?IfgrowersinsoggyBordeauxandChampagnecantaketherisk,socanChileans,withtheirdryandreliableclimate.Comeon,now,people:nomoreofthisscratchingaroundforexcuses.

AntucuraMen★★→★★★Theownerssetouttocreateansuper-ultra-premiumwine,withadvicefromMichelRolland(seeBordeaux).BesidesAntucurablend,lookfornewBarrandicarange.

ArgentoMen★→★★GdcommercialwineundertheLibertad,MalamboandArgentolabels.AlsoRes(MALBEC,BONARDA).

AtamisqueMen★→★★★Impressivereds,esp

MALBEC/MERLOT/CABSAUVAssemblage.AlsoCHARDandPINOTN.CatalpaandSerbal(espVIOGNIER)rangealsov.gdvalue.

BelascodeBaquedanoMen★★Fourbottlingsofold-vineAgreloMALBEC–SwintoandArGuentotaarebest–plusararelate-harvestAntracita.WinemakerisBertrandBourdil,ex-Mouton-Rothschild(Bordeaux).

BenegasMen★★→★★★Top-notchCABFRandMeritageBenegasLynchlabel.UsingoldvinesfromLibertadv’yd(Maipú)andUcoValley.

BressiaMen★★→★★★Familywinery;classicMALBEC-dominatedblendsProfundo,Conjuro.PlusMonteagrelorangeandexcellentLágrimaCanela(CHARD/SÉM).

CalliaSanJ★★Gd-valuewinesbasedonSYRAH.TopGrandCalliablend.

Canale,BodegasHumbertoRíoN★→★★★ThemosttraditionalwineryinPatagonia,nowadvisedbySusanaBalbo

(wines)andPedroMarchevski(v’yds).CarmeloPattiMen★★Independent;classicCABSAUV,MALBEC;a

mustforoenophiles.CaroMen★★★Catena’sjointventurewiththeRothschildsof

Lafite(France):seriouslyclassyCaroandyoungerAmancaya.CasaBianchiMen★→★★★Oneofmosttraditionallocal

wineries.V.gdsparkling,balancedFamigliarange,espCABSAUV.TopEnzo(rblend),MaríaCarmen(CHARD).

CasarenaMen★★→★★★V.gdentry-levelMALBECandCABSAUV,plusnewMalbecfromLujándeCuyo.

CatenaZapata,BodegaMen★★→★★★★MALBECpioneer.ConsistentlygdrangefromAlamosthroughCatenaandCatenaAltatoflagshipNicolasCatenaZapataandMalbecArgentino,plusAdriannaandNicasiasingle-v’ydMalbecs.NowworkinghardwithCABSAUVandCHARD.

ChacraRíoN★★★Superbterroir-drivenPinotNfromtiny

bodegaownedbyPieroIncisadellaRocchettaofSassicaia(seeItaly),topTreintayDosfrom1932v´yd;alsov.gdMainquéMERLOT.WinesmadeatNoemia.

ChakanaMen★★→★★★Winerytowatchforv.gdvarietals,topMALBECAyni.AlbertoAntoniniconsults.

MightArgentina’simportrestrictionsmeanfewernewoakbarrels?Everycloud….

ClosdelosSieteMen★★ConsistentVistaflores(UcoValley)blendofMALBEC,MERLOT,SYRAHandCABSAUV,winemakingoverseenbyMichelRolland(seeDIAMANDES,MONTEVIEJO,CuvelierlosAndesandMariflor).

Cobos,ViñaMen★★★Ultra-richbutelegantMALBECSfromCalifornianPaulHobbs,thebestfromtheMarchioriv’yd.BramareandFelinoare2ndand3rdtiers,espCABSAUV.AlsolookforMarchiori&BarraudwinesfromCoboswinemakers.

Colomé,BodegaSal★★→★★★BodegainremoteCalchaquíValleyownedbyCalifornia’sHessCollection.Pure,intense,biodynamicMALBEC-basedreds,livelyTORRONTÉS,smokyTANNAT.NewMalbecAuténticohonourstradition.

DelRíoElorza★★NewRíoNegroestate;AlbertoAntonini(seeALTOSLASHORMIGAS)consults,impressingwithPINOTNandMALBECunderVerumlabel.

DiamAndesMenOneoftheCLOSDELOSSIETEwineries,ownedbyBonniefamilyofChâteauMalartic-Lagravière(Bordeaux),makingsolid,meatyGranRes(MALBEC/CABSAUV)andlivelyVIOGNIER.

DominiodelPlataMen★→★★★SusanaBalbomakesv.gdwinesunderSusanaBalbo,BenMarco,Zohar,Anubislabels.NosotrosisboldMALBEC/CABSAUVflagship.Alsov.gdBenMarcoExpresivo,gd-valueCriosrange(inclexcellentTORRONTÉS).

DoñaPaulaMen★→★★★EstateownedbySANTARITA(seeChile).Best:SelecciónMALBEC,CHARD;consistentDPEstate,LosCardosrange.TopwinesfocusonGualtallaryandAltamira(UcoValley)v’yds.Comingsoon:CABFR,RIES.

EtchartSal★★→★★★Traditional,high-altitudeproducer.GdTORRONTÉSandredblendArnaldoB.

FabreMontmayouMen,RíoN★★→★★★French-ownedoperation;v’ydsinLujándeCuyoandRÍONEGRO(labelledInfinitus);redswithaFrenchaccent,espgdsecondlabelPhebus;alsogd-valueViñalba,andtopMALBEC,CABSAUVandGrandVin.

FincaDeceroMen★★→★★★WinesfromRemolinosv’ydinAgrelo,lushbutmodern.GoforPETITVERDOTandblendedAmano.

FindelMundo,BodegaDelNeu★★TopwineSpecialBlend(MALBEC/CABSAUV/MERLOT);trysingle-v´ydFin.France’s

MichelRollandconsults.Flichman,FincaMen★★→★★★OwnedbySogrape(see

Portugal),impressiveSYRAH.Best:Dedicadoblend(mostlyCABSAUV).PaisajedeTupungato(Bordeauxblend),PaisajedeBarrancas(SYRAH-based);newtopMALBECParcela26fromUcoValley.

Fournier,OMen★→★★★Spanish-owned.UrbanUcov.gdentry-levelrange;BCrux(TEMPRANILLO/MERLOt/MALBECblendandSAUVBL)andAlfaCrux(Malbecandblend).TopsitetovisitinUcoValley,v.gdrestaurant.SeeChile.

KaikénMen★★→★★★OwnedbyMontes(seeChile);topMaiMALBEC,alsoUltraCABSAUVandMalbec,andCorteblend,withgrapesfromdifferentregions.

KrontirasMen★★→★★★Greek-ownedMALBECspecialistconvertingtobiodynamics.LookforDoñaSilvina.

LaAnita,FincaMen★★→★★★High-classreds,espCAB

SAUV,MALBECandMERLOT.AlsoSYRAHplusintriguingwhites.LaRiojanaLaR★→★★LargeFairtradeproducer.RazaLtd

EditionMalbecistopwine,butqualityandvalueatalllevels,espTORRONTÉS.

LasMoras,FincaSanJ★→★★LeaderinSANJUANwithsolidGranShirazplusTANNAT,MALBECandVIOGNIER.AlsointenseMalbec/BONARDAblendMoraNegra.

Luca/Tikal/Tahuan/AlmaNegraMen★★→★★★ClassyboutiquewineriesownedbyNicolasCatena’schildrenLaura(Luca)andErnesto(Tikal/Tahuan/AlmaNegra).Plusv.gdsparkling.WinemakerLuisReginatoalsomakesexcellentLaPostadelViñaterorange,butPINOTNisthekey.

LuigiBoscaMen★★→★★★WiserangenowtoppedbystylishIcono(MALBEC/CABSAUV).ClassicFincaLosNoblesMalbec/PETITVERDOTandCabSauv/Bouchet(akaCABFR)alsov.gd,asaretheGalablends,espthewhite

(VIOGNIER/CHARD/RIES).PlusgdentrylabelFincaLaLinda.ManosNegras★→★★Twoex-CATENAstaffmakingwinesin

severalpartsofArgentina.AltamiraMALBECtopwine.TeHoandZaHaarerelatedlabels,alsov.gdRes,plusfruityPINOTNandTORRONTÉS.

MasiTupungatoMen★★→★★★OwnedbyMasiofValpolicella(seeItaly).PassoDobleisfineripasso-styleMALBEC/CORVINA/MERLOTblend;CorbecisevenbetterAmaronelookalike(Corvina/Malbec).

MendelMen★★★WinemakerRobertodelaMotamakeshigh-endMALBEC,inclFincaRemotafromAltamira,delicateUnusblend.NiceSÉMandCABSAUV,too.

MendozaMostimportantwineprovince(over70%ofplantings).Bestsubregions:Agrelo,ValledeUco(inclGualtallary,Altamira),LujándeCuyo,Maipú.

MichelTorinoSal★★BigCafayateenterprisemakinggdtov.gd

winesinallranges,inclDonDavid,espMALBEC,andCABSAUV.Altimusisratheroakyflagship.

Moët-HennessyArgentinaMen★→★★TopfizzunderMoëtetChandonsupervision;espPINOTN/CHARD.GdLatitude33varietalsrange.SeeTERRAZASDELOSANDES.

MonteviejoMen★★→★★★★FromCatherinePéré-Vergé(Pomerol):partofCLOSDELOSSIETE.TinyLaVioleta,LindaflorMALBEC;v.gdCHARD,andMonteviejoblend.

NeuquénPatagonianregiontowatch:hugedevelopmentssince2000,althoughsalinityprovingaproblem.

NietoSenetiner,BodegasMen★★→★★★MALBECatalllevels,espfromRestotop-of-rangeCadus,plusnewsingle-v´ydsandblends.AlsoBONARDA.

Noemia★★★→★★★★OutstandingPatagonianold-vineMALBECmadebyHansVinding-Diers.AlsoJAlberto,ALisa(inclrosé)andstylishBordeauxblend“2”(CABSAUV/MERLOT).

(SeeChacra.)Norton,BodegaMen★→★★★V.gdreds,espMALBECandCAB

SAUV,blendsPrivadaandiconGernotLangespluslotsofv.gdsparkling.Newsingle-v´ydMALBECLoteÚnico.AllcomefromLujándeCuyo.

PassionateWineMen★★MontescoParral(MALBEC/BONARDA/CABSAUV),AguadeRocaSAUVBLandvibrantPINOTN.

PeñaflorMen★→★★★Argentina’sbiggestwinegroup,inclFINCALASMORAS,ANDEANV’YDS(SANJUAN),MICHELTORINO(SALTA),SANTAANAandfinerTRAPICHE(MENDOZA).

PiatelliSal★→★★WineriesinCafayateandLujándeCuyo.NiceTORRONTÉSandmodernreds,espCABSAUVandMALBEC.

PiedraNegraMen★→★★★ThetopPiedraNegraMALBEC.AlsoChacayes(Malbec-basedblend),earthyCABSAUVGranLurton,andfragantwhiteCorteFriulano.Plusmanyentrylabel

wines,espPINOTGRIGIO.PoesiaMen★★→★★★SameownerasClosl’Égliseof

Bordeaux;dedicatedtoredwines,stylishandmouthfillingPoesiablend(CABSAUV/MALBEC),alsofineClosdesAndes(Malbec)andjuicyPasodobleMalbec/SYRAH/CabSauv.

Portillo,FincaElMen★★V.gd,valuevarietalsfromUcoValley,espMALBEC,SAUVBL.

PorvenirdeCafayate,ElSal★★→★★★YoungCafayateestatewithjuicy,oakyLaborumvarietals,inclfine,firmTANNAT.Amautablendsalsogd,andelegantTORRONTÉS.AdvisedbyflyingwinemakerPaulHobbs.

PulentaEstateMen★★→★★★Ownedbythirdgeneration.V.gdentry-levelLaFlor.Best:PulentaGranCorte(CABSAUV/MALBEC/MERLOT/PETITVERDOT)andCABFR.

RaffyMen★★FrenchenterprisemakingtwolightlyoakedversionsofTupungatoMALBEC,TerroirandRés.

RenacerMen★★→★★★Renacer(mostlyMALBEC)isflagship,alsov.gdPuntoFinalMALBEC,CABSAUV.InterestingEnamore:Amarone-styleredwithAllegrini(Italy).

RiglosMen★★★VinesinGualtallaryareaofTupungato:GranCorteblend,CABFRANC,CABSAUVandMALBEC.

RíoNegroPatagonia’soldestwineregion.GdPINOTN,MALBEC,alsoSAUVBL,SÉM.

RucaMalenMen★★→★★★Promisingredspecialistwithv’ydsinLujándeCuyoandUcoValley.ToprangeKinienMALBECandCABSAUV,alsorichPETITVERDOTandSYRAH(RucaMalenlabel)plusv.gdsparkling.

Salentein,BodegasMen★★→★★★JoséGalanteisnewwinemaker.Single-v’ydCHARD,PINOTNareelegant.AlsotryNumina,Resrangeandnewsparklingwines.

SaltaNortherlyprovincewithsomeoftheworld’shighestv’yds,espinCalchaquíValley.SubregionCafayaterenownedfor

TORRONTÉS.SanJuanSecond-largestwineregion;focusonSYRAH,BONARDA,

PINOTGRIGIO,TANNAT.SanPedrodeYacochuyaSal★★★Cafayatecollaboration

betweenMichelRolland(seeFrance)andtheEtchartfamily.RipebutfragrantTORRONTÉSanddenseMALBECSPY,andpowerfulYacochuya,auniqueMALBECfromoldestvines.

Schroeder,FamiliaNeu★★V.gdSaurusSelectrange,espPINOTN,fragrantMALBEC.TopFamiliaSchroederPinotN/Malbec.AlsointerestingCABSAUV,sparkling.

Sophenia,FincaMen★★→★★★PioneerinTupungato,gdAltosurentry-level,v.gdResMALBEC,CABSAUV,Rhône-styleSYRAH.Highlights:SynthesisBlend,SAUVBL.

TapizMen★★PunchySAUVBL(fromLaRioja),v.gdredrangetoppedbyseriousBlackTearsMALBECandResSeleccióndeBarricas(CABSAUV/Malbec/MERLOT),alsoMerlot.Sisterlabel

Zolo.TerrazasdelosAndesMen★★★Specialistinpremiumvarietal

wines,espMALBECandCABSAUV.Topsingle-v´ydsinPerdriel,LasCompuertasandAltamira.AlsoperfumedTORRONTÉS(SALTA).JointventurewithChevalBlanc(Bordeaux)makingsuperbChevaldesAndesblend.

Toso,PascualMen★★→★★★CalifornianPaulHobbsheadsateammakinggd-value,tastyrange,inclripebutfinelystructuredMagdalenaToso(mostlyMALBEC)andMalbec/CABSAUVsingle-v’ydFincaPedregal.

TrapicheMen★★→★★★Leaderinallranges,espMALBEC.Trioofsingle-v’ydMalbecsandLasPalmasCABSAUVshinesout;alsoIscayblends,espSYRAH-based.BettervalueunderOakCask,FonddeCave,Broquel(gdCABFR)andMedallalabels.

TriventoMen★→★★OwnedbyCONCHAYTOROofChile.EoloMALBECispriceyflagship,butGoldenMalbec,SYRAHand

CHARDaretopvalue.ValdeFloresMen★★★MichelRollandownsthisold(and

biodynamic)MALBECv´ydinVistaflores.Deep,elegant,earthy,withfirmtannins.Forageing.

Viña1924deAngelesMen★★→★★★LujándeCuyowinerywhoseforteisold-vineMALBEC.TopwineGranMalbec.

ViñaAlicia★★★★StylishandpriceyrangeinclNEBBIOLO,PETITVERDOT(Cuarzo)andTiarawhiteblend(RIES/ALBARIÑO/SAVAGNIN).AlsoMALBECBroteNegro,andSYRAH.

ViñaVidaMen★★★Amazingv´ydsinVistaflores:top-valueMALBEC,andaPETITVERDOTcomingsoon.

Weinert,BodegasMen★→★★Potentiallyfinereds,espCavasdeWeinertblend(CABSAUV/MERLOT/MALBEC),occasionallyspoiledbytoolonginoldoak.OwnsArgentina’smostsoutherlyv’yd,inChubut.

ZuccardiMen★→★★★Dynamicestateproducinggd-valueSantaJuliarange,betterQlabel(impressiveMALBEC,CABSAUV,TEMPRANILLO),spicyEmmaZuccardiBONARDAanddeepyetelegantblendZeta.GreatnewterroirwinesAluvionalfromUcoValley.AlsogdfortifiedMalamado(rw).

OTHERSOUTHAMERICANWINESBoliviaTheTarijaValleyistheheartofBolivia’stinywineindustry.Withtheheattemperedbyaltitude,SYRAH,CAB,MALBECareproducedwithsomesuccess.Kohlberg,Aranjuez,CamposdeSolana,LaConception,CasaGrande,Magnus,Uvairenda,areworkingtopositiontheirwinesasanexperienceofheight.BrazilThelasttwovintages(2011/12),beingdrier,gavewinesofbetterqualityandconcentration.Themainregionsareinthesouth:SantaCatarina(modern)andRioGrandedoSul(traditional).TheValedosVinhedos,whichrecentlyreceivedaDO(seePortugal),istheBrazilianbirthplaceofsparkling.BestareSalton,LidioCarraro,Pizzato,DomCândido,Amadeu(forGeissesparklers),CasaValdugaandthepioneeringMiolo.FromtherealsolookforMERLOTandCHARD.ButtheregionwiththebestpotentialisCampanhaGaúcha,ontheborderwithUruguay,especiallyforstructuredreds

fromTANNAT,TEMPRANILLOandPortuguesevarieties.BrazilianwinestendtobemoreacidicandlessripethantheirpeersintheSouthernConeandthereforewell-suitedtofood.PeruPiscowas,is,andwillcontinuetobethekingofPeruviandrinks.Wineevolvesslowlybutsteadily.EnjoywithPeruviancuisine:TacamaBlancodeBlancos,DonManuel,GranBlancoFinaRes,IntipalkayoungMALBEC/MERLOT.UruguayTANNATremainstheUruguayanUSP,andoneofthewineexperiencesyoushouldnotmiss.SAUVBLandMERLOTaredoingnicely,andALBARIÑOisthelatestnews,whilev’ydsarebeingplantedclosertotheAtlantic.(Amaritimeclimatemeanslowerripenesslevelsandmoderatealcohol.)JuanicóandPisanolead,andBouzamakeselegantboutiquewines.OtherproducersmakingalotofnoiseincludeBodegaGarzon,helpedbyItalianconsultantAlbertoAntonini;AltodelaBallenawithitsmaritimewhites;FincaNarbonawiththesigningofBordelaisconsultantMichelRolland;andMarichalwithitsResPINOTN/TANNAT.

Australia

The2011vintagehaschangedthestandardfareofAussiewineflavour–whichisquitesomethingforwhatwassupposedtobetheworstvintageinclear-headedmemory.ThedoggedraininsoutheastAustralianotonlycausedgrapestorotonthevinebuthadredgrapesstrugglingtoturnredatall.Manyproducerscuttheirlossesandcalleda“novintage”;othersscrambledwhattheycouldandmademakeshift,lower-tierwines.Yetothers,likewinemakerJeffreyGrosset,suggestedthatthiswasexactlywhatallthosetripstoEuropeduringvintagewerepreparationfor.Turnsouthewasright.Whathasbecomeclearisthatthe2011vintageisaseminaloneformanyAustralianproducers.Awetyearhasproducedlighterwines,butnotnecessarilylesser.Ittakessomeresearch–2011producedagreatnumberofdireAussiewines–butit’sworthtakingalook.OverthepastdecadeAustraliahasbeenbeatingthe“diversityofstyles”drum;morethananyother,thisvintagehas

deliveredexactlythat.

Recentvintages

NewSouthWales(NSW)2012Awet,coldyear;badrunofvintagescontinued.Semcould

pullarabbitoutandperhapsCabSauvtoo,butagenerallydisappointingseason.

2011 TheHunterValleyescapedthefloodproblemsoffurthersouth,butitwasstillacold,dampyear.

2010Regularheavyrainmadeforatrickyyearinmostdistricts.Lighterreds,goodwhites.

2009 Excellentvintagealloveralthoughredsbetterthanwhites.Bothrainandheatcausedsomedamagebutoverallawarm/hot,successfulyear.

2008Goodwhites;torrentialrainthendestroyedvirtuallyallHunterreds.Canberraredsoutstanding.

2007 Fullflavouracrosswhiteandredwines.PeakHunterredvintage.

Victoria(Vic)2012Agood,mildyear–if,thatis,thewinemakerwasn’ttoo

affectedbysignificantrainmidwaythroughvintage.Redsandwhitesofverygoodtoexceptionalquality.

2011Wet;lotsofdiseasepressureinvineyards.Generallybetterforwhitesthanreds.Avoidunlessyou’vedoneyourresearch.

2010Moreorlessnormaltransmissionresumed.Temperatevintage,nogreatalarmsorsurprises.Whitesandredsshouldbegoodfrommostdistricts.

2009Bushfire(andresultantsmoketaint).Extremeheatanddrought.YarraValleyworstaffected.CentralVictorianredsofgood,concentratedquality.

2008RedsexcellentinGrampians,MorningtonPeninsula,Yarra

Valley.2007 Frostandbush-firesmoketainthitmanyregionshard.

SouthAustralia(SA)2012Yieldsweredownbutabrilliantyear.AgreatRiesyearhas

alreadybeenconfirmed;CabSauvshouldbeaparticularstandout;butshouldbesuperacrosstheboard.

2011Horriblycoolandwetyear.Leanwhitesandherbal/spicyreds.Someinterestingresults.

2010 Excellentyear.ClareandEdenValleyRiesbothverygood.Shirazfromallmajordistrictsbestsince2005.CoonawarraCabSauvonsong.

2009Hot.AdelaideHillsgoodwhitesandreds.Coonawarraredsexcellent.McLarenValeandBarossaValleygenerallygoodforShiraz.

2008 ExcellentwinespickedpriortoMarchheatwave,non-

fortified“Ports”forthosepickedafter.Veryhighalcohols.CoonawarraproducedCabofnote.

2007Adry,warmvintagefavouredredwinesacrosstheboard.Goodatbest.

WesternAustralia(WA)2012 Thedroughtcontinuesandso,too,therunofbeautiful,warm

vintages.2011Warm,dry,earlyvintage.ParticularlygoodCab.Delicate

whiteslesssuccessful.WA’sgreatrunofvintagescontinues.2010Redsgenerallybetterthanwhites.Somewerecaughtbylate

rainsbut,ingeneral,averygoodvintage.2009 EspeciallygoodforMargaretRiver(rw)andPemberton(w).

MargaretRiversooftenexperiencespolar-oppositeconditionstotheregionsoftheeasternstates;heresoagain.

2008 Thebestformanyyearsacrossallregionsandallvarieties.

2007Awarm,quick-firevintagemadewhitequalityvariable;finereds.

AccoladeWinesNameforallwines/wineriespreviouslyunderHARDYS,CONSTELLATIONgroups.Undernewownership.

AdelaideHillsSABestSAUVBLregion:cool450-metresitesinMtLoftyranges.CHARDandSHIRAZitsbestperformersnow.

AlkoomiMtBarker,WArw★(RIES)0102’0405’07’0809101112(CABSAUV)01’02’0405’0708Aveteranof35yrsmakingfineRIESandrustic,long-livedreds.Quietoflate.

AllSaintsRutherglen,Vicrwbr★Producerwithahistoryofgreatfortifieds.WoodedMARSANNE,CHARDandPierreCABblend.Gdtablewines.

AlpineValleysVicGeographicallyandvarietallysimilartoKINGVALLEY.Bestproducers:MayfordandRingerReef.TEMPRANILLOistheregion’scomet.

AndrewThomasHunterV,NSWrw★★★Fineproducer:old-vineSEM,silkenSHIRAZ.

Angove’sSArw(br)★MURRAYVALLEYfamilyrecentlycelebrated125yrsinthewinebusiness.Excellent-value(rw)varietals.Neworganicofferings.High-pricedredstoooak-heavy.

Annie’sLaneClareV,SArw★PartofTWE.Consistentlygd,boldlyflavouredwines.FlagshipCopperTrailexcellent,espRIESandSHIRAZ.Coulddowithsomemorelovefromitsowners.

ArrivoAdHills,SArLong-maceration,tannic,mintyNEBBIOLO.Dry,complex,sexyrosé.Minutequantities.

AshtonHillsAdHills,SArw(sp)★★→★★★(PINOTN)97040507080910Long-livedRIESandcompellingPinotNmadebytheever-thoughtfulStephenGeorgefrom30-yr-oldv’yds.

Bailey’sNEVicrwbr★★★RichSHIRAZandmagnificentdessertMUSCAT(★★★★)andTOPAQUE.PartofTWE.V’ydsnowgrownorganically.PETITVERDOTagdaddition.Runoftough

vintagesbutrediscoveringitsmojo.BalgownieEstaterw★★Oldnameformedium-bodied,well-

balanced,mintyCAB,BENDIGO.NowwithseparateYARRAVALLEYarm.

BalnavesofCoonawarraSArw★★★Grape-growersince1975;winerysince1996.LustyCHARD;v.gdspicy,mid-weightSHIRAZ.Full-bodiedTallyCABSAUVflagship.

BannockburnVicrw★★★(CHARD)0002’030405’06’08’10’(PINOTN)02’04’05’06’07’08’10’Intense,complexChardandPinotN.FunkifiedSAUVBL.WinemakerMichael“Gloverboy”Gloverkickinggoalsfromallangles.

BanrockStationRiverland,SArw★Almost1,600hapropertyonMurrayRiver,243hav’yd,ownedbyACCOLADE.Gdbudgetwines.Nottheforceitoncewas.

BarossaValleySASpiritualhomeoffull-bodiedAustralianred.Localspecialties:v.old-vineSHIRAZ,MOURVÈDRE,CABSAUVand

GRENACHE.Newleaseoflife.

TopAussieGrenacheisnowpricedliketopShiraz.Usedtobeabargain.

BassPhillipGippsland,Vicr★★★(PINOTN)99’02’0407’10’Tinyamountsofstylish,sought-after,attimesexceptionalPinotNinthreequalitygrades.GirlwithacurlPinotN;whenit’sgd,it’sv.v.gd,butwhenit’sbad….CHARDimproving(09Premiumv.gd).LongconsideredOz’shighpriestofPinotN.

BayofFiresNTasrwsp★★PipersRiveroutpostofACCOLADEempire.StylishtablewinesandArrassuper-cuvéesparkler.ComplexPINOTN.Accoladeseemstodoitsbesttokeepithidden.

BeechworthVicCool-climate,inland,undulatingregionintheleeoftheVictorianAlps.CHARD,SHIRAZbestperforminggrapes,withItalianvarietalreds(NEBBIOLO,SANGIOVESE)causinga

buzz.CASTAGNA,GIACONDA,SorrenbergandSAVATERREarebest-knownwineries.GoldenBallandARoddaascendant.

BendigoVicWarmcentralVictorianregionwithdozensofsmallv’yds.Somev.gdquality:BALGOWNIEESTATE,SuttonGrange,Bress,HARCOURTVALLEYV’YDS,Turner’sCrossing,WaterWheelbestperformers.

Best’sGrampians,Vicrw★★★(SHIRAZ)97’01’03’04’05’060809’10’Conservativefamilywinery;v.gdmid-weightreds.ThomsonFamilyShirazfrom120-yr-oldvinessuperb.Recentformexcellent.Toeveryone’ssurpise,winnerofAustralia’sbigwineprize(JimmyWatsonTrophy)foraShirazfromcold,wet’11vintage.

BindiMacedon,Vicrw★★★→★★★★(PINOTN)04’06’08’10’Ultra-fastidious,terroir-driven;outstanding,long-livedPinotN.CHARDhigh-quality,lessage-worthy.

BluePyreneesPyrenees,Vicrwsp★180haofmaturev’yds;

betterutilizedthanbeforeacrossabroadrangeofwines.CABSAUVqualityresurgent.Redswithstronggum-leafflavours/aromas.

Terroirismalert:newMcLarenValeproject,ScarceEarth,exploresandpromotestheregion’sterroir.

BoireannGraniteBeltQLDr★★→★★★ConsistentlythebestproducerofredwinesinQueensland(intinyquantities).SHIRAZ/VIOGNIERthestandout.Hardtofind.

Brand’sofCoonawarraCoonawarra,SArw★91’949698’02’0305’06’OwnedbyMCWILLIAM’S.Custodianof100-yr-oldvines.Qualityhasstruggledoflate.

BremertonLangC,SArw★★Redwineswithsilky-softmouthfeelandmoundsofflavour.HasthrivedsincesistersLucyandRebeccaWillson–whoaredefinitelydoingitforthemselves–tookoverthefamilywinery.Full-bodiedCABand

SHIRAZ.BrokenwoodHunterV,NSWrw★★★(ILRResSEM)03’05’

06’(GraveyardSHIRAZ)93’97’98’00’02’03’05’07’09’andCricketPitchSem/SAUVBLfuelsales.Showsnosignofslackening.

BrooklandValleyMargaretR,WArw★★★Superblysitedwinerydoingexcitingthings,espwithSAUVBL,CHARDandCABSAUV.BudgetVerse1SEM/SauvBlv.gdvalue.OwnedbyACCOLADE.

BrownBrothersKingV,Vicrwbrdrswsp★→★★(NobleRIES)99’0002’04’05’08’Oldfamilyfirm.Widerangeofmid-qualityvarietalwines.CABSAUVblendisbestred.ExtensiveGLERA(asinProsecco)plantings.RecentlyboughtextensiveTasmanianPINOTNv’yds.Sweetwine(tableanddessert)specialist.

BullerRutherglen,Vicbr★★★Widerangeofvarietalwines

(middlingquality)butratedhereforsuperbRareLiqueurMUSCATandthenewlymintedTOPAQUE.Wentintovoluntaryadministrationinlate2012.

ByFarr/FarrRisingVicrw★★★★08’09’10’FatherGaryandsonNick’sown,afterdeparturefromBANNOCKBURN.CHARDandPINOTNcanbeminormasterpieces.Nickmostlyinchargeofwinemakingnow.Qualitysoaring.Estateandsingle-patchPinotNofferings.

CampbellsRutherglen,Vicr(w)br★★Smooth,ripereds(espBobbieBurnsSHIRAZ);extraordinaryMerchantPrinceRareMUSCATandIsabellaRareTOPAQUE(★★★★).

CanberraDistrictNSWBothquality,quantityonincrease;siteselectionimportant;coolclimate.CLONAKILLAbest-known.COLLECTORWINES,EDENROADthenewguns.

CapelValeWArw★★→★★★165haestatewithv’ydsacrossfourregions.Widerangeofvarietiesandprices.Variable

quality.CapeMentelleMargaretR,WArw★★★(CABSAUV)01’07’08’

10’Inrichgdform.RobustCabhasbecomeamoreelegant,(andloweralcohol)style,CHARDv.gd;alsoZINandv.popularSAUVBL/SEM.SHIRAZontherise.OwnedbyLVMHVeuveClicquot(seeFrance).

CapitalWinesCanberra,NSWrw★★Estate’sKyeemav’ydhasahistoryofgrowingsomeofregion’sbest.SHIRAZ(table,sparkling)andRIESstandouts.V.gdMERLOT.

CarleiEstateYarraV,Vicrw★★WinemakerSergioCarleisourcesPINOTNandCHARDfromcoolregionstomakecharacterfulwines.Organic/biodynamic.

CasellaRiverina,NSWrw★The[YellowTail]phenomenonincludesmultimillion-casesalesintheUSA.LikeFanta:softandsweet.HighAussiedollarapersistentthreat.12CHARDawfulbutSEM/SAUVBLblendgdvalue.

CastagnaBeech,Vicr★★★★(SYRAH)01’02’04’05’06’08’10’JulianCastagna,asmuchchefaswinemaker,isdeservedleaderoftheOzbiodynamicbrigade.SHIRAZ/VIOGNIERandSANGIOVESE/Shirazblendsexcellent.RoséandSparklingShirazoftenOzbest.

ChalkersCrossingHilltops,NSWrw★★Cool-ishclimatewinesmadebyFrench-trainedCelineRousseau;espSHIRAZ.Alcohollevelsworryinglyhighoflate.

ChambersRosewoodNEVic(r)(w)br★★★ViewedwithMORRISasthegreatestmakerofstickyTOPAQUEandMUSCAT.Farlesssuccessfultablewines.

ChapelHillMcLarenV,SArLeadingproducerofMCLARENVALE.SHIRAZ,CABleadtheway,butTEMPRANILLOandGRENACHEbothv.gd.IlVescovowhiteblendpromising.

CharlesMeltonBarossaV,SArw(sp)★★★Tinywinerywithbold,lusciousreds,espNinePopes,anold-vine

GRENACHE/SHIRAZblend.Shirazcontinuestoshine.ClareValleySASmall,picturesque,high-qualityarea145kmnorth

ofAdelaide.BestforRIES;alsogumleaf-scentedSHIRAZandespCABSAUV.

ClarendonHillsMcLarenV,SAr★★Full-montyreds(highalcohol,intensefruit)madewithgrapesgrownonthehillsaboveMCLARENVALE.Lessprominentoflate.

ClonakillaCanberra,NSWrw★★★★(SHIRAZ)01’03’05’06’07’0809’10’11’.DeservedleaderoftheShiraz/Viognierbrigade.RIESandotherwinesalsov.gd.

ChardonadietVariousreasonsarecitedfortheslimming-downofAustralianCHARD.Somesayrestaurantswerefedupwithfat,blowsywines;butmoreprobablyitwasthethreatofimportedNZSAUV

BL–ahugeproblemforAussiewhitesontheirhomemarket.Hoorayforcompetition.

ColdstreamHillsYarraV,Vicrw(sp)★★★(CHARD)02’0304’05’06’07’08’10’11’(PINOTN)92’96’02’04’06’10’Establishedin1985bywinecriticJamesHalliday.DeliciousPinotNtodrinkyoung,andRestoage.V.gdChard(espRes).Recentsingle-v’ydreleasesaddedsparkle.PartofTWE.

CollectorWinesCanberra,NSWr★★★(ResSHIRAZ)06’07’08’09’11’WinemakerAlexMcKayislocalstar.ResShiraz:layersofspicy,perfumed,complexflavour.

ConstellationWinesAustralia(CWA)SeeACCOLADEWINES.CoonawarraSASouthernmostv’ydsofstate:hometosomeof

Australia’sbest(value,quality)CABSAUV;successfulCHARD,

RIES,SHIRAZ.WYNNSregion’sbeatingheart.CorioleMcLarenV,SArw★★(LloydResSHIRAZ)91’96’98’

02’04’06’Towatch,espSANGIOVESE,old-vineShirazLloydRes.InterestingwhitefromFIANO.

CraigleeMacedon,Vicrw★★★(SHIRAZ)96’97’98’00’02’04’0506’08Re-creationoffamous19th-centuryestate.Fragrant,pepperyShiraz,CHARD.Shiraz/VIOGNIERnewaddition.Gem.

CrawfordRiverHeathcote,Vicw★★★ConsistentlyoneofAustralia’sbestRIESfromthisultra-coolregion.

CullenWinesMargaretR,WArw★★★(CHARD)00’02’04’05’0708’09’10’(CABSAUV/MERLOT)94’95’98’04’05’07’09’VanyaCullenmakessubstantialbutsubtleSEM/SAUVBL,outstandingChardandelegantCab/Merlot.Biodynamic.

CumulusOrange,NSWrw★Byfarthelargestv’ydownerandproducerinORANGE.Variablequality.

CurlyFlatMacedon,Vicrw★★★(PINOTN)03’05’06’08’10’

RobustbutperfumedPinotN(espimpressive)ontwoprice/qualitylevels.Full-flavouredCHARD.Bothareage-worthy.

DalwhinniePyrenees,Vicrw★★★(CHARD)04’05’06’08’(SHIRAZ)99’000204’05’06’07’08’10’RichChard,CABSAUVandShiraz.BestPYRENEESproducer.

d’ArenbergMcLarenV,SArw(br)(sw)(sp)★★→★★★SumptuousSHIRAZand(increasinglyitsbestwines)GRENACHE,lotsofvarietiesandwackylabels(inclTheCenosilicaphobicCatSAGRANTINO).Regionalstalwart.

DeakinEstateVicrw★High-volume,high-valuevarietaltablewines.V.low-alcoholMOSCATO.SpicySHIRAZ.Remarkableconsistency.

DeBortoliGriffith,NSW,YarraV,Vicrw(br)drsw★★★★(NobleSEM)Bothirrigation-areawineryandleadingYARRAproducer.ExcellentPINOTN,SHIRAZ,CHARD,SAUVBLandv.gdsweet,botrytized,Sauternes-styleNobleSem.Yarraarmhas

becomeaseminalOzwineryoverthepastdecade.Devil’sLairMargaretR,WArw★★★OpulentCHARDandCAB

SAUV/MERLOT.FifthLegpopularsecondlabel.New9thChamberChardraisesthequalitybarsubstantially.PartofTWE.

DomaineASTasrw★★★Swissowners/winemakersPeterandRuthAlthausareperfectionists;v.gdSAUVBL(FUMÉBLANC).Polarizingcool-climateCABSAUV.

DomaineChandonYarraV,Vic(r)(w)sp★Gdsparklingwine,grapesfromcoolerwineregions.OwnedbyMoët&Chandon(seeFrance).KnowninUKasGreenPoint.Standardsshouldimprovewithnewwinemaker.

EdenRoadrw★★★Tip-topproducermakingwinesfromHilltops,TUMBARUMBA,CANBERRADISTRICTregions.V.gdSHIRAZ,CHARDandCABSAUV.

EdenValleySAHilly,rock-strewnregionhometoHENSCHKE,TORZIMATTHEWS,Radford,PEWSEYVALE;RIESand(perfumed,

bright)SHIRAZofv.highquality.EldertonBarossaV,SArw(br)(sp)★★Oldvines;rich,oaked

CABSAUVandSHIRAZ.Triallingorganics/biodynamics.EldridgeEstateMorPen,Vicrw★★★WinemakerDavidLloyd

isafastidiousexperimenter.PINOTN,GAMAY,CHARDworththefuss.

EpisMacedon,Vicrw★★★(PINOTN)Straight-shootingAlecEpisgrowsamightygrape.Long-livedPinotN;elegantCHARD.Coldclimate.

Evans&TateMargaretR,WArw★★OwnedbyMCWILLIAM’S(2007).Commendablequality,espResSHIRAZandResCHARD.Knownmostforitsbudgetofferings.

FaberVineyardsSwanV,WAr★★★(ResSHIRAZ)03’07’08’09’10’.JohnGriffithsisa(young-looking)veteranofWAwineandaguruofthewinemakingWest.HishomeestatemakesconcentratedShirazofperception-alteringquality.

FerngroveVineyardsGtSouthern,WArw★CattlefarmerMurrayBurton’s223hawineventure.GdRIES,MALBEC,CABSAUV.

FlametreeMargaretR,WArw★★★ExceptionalCABSAUV;spicyandseductiveSHIRAZ.WinemakerCliffRoyle(ex-Voyager)hastherangelookingspirited.

FletcherPyrenees,VicrTinyproduction(lessthan100dozenperwine).NEBBIOLO-focused.NewfaceofAustralianwine.

FraserGallopEstateMargaretR,WArw★★NewbreedofMARGARETRIVER;concentratedCABSAUVandCHARDofnote.

FreycinetTasrw(sp)★★★(PINOTN)96’00’02’05’06’07’08’09’10’East-coastwinery;densePinotN,gdCHARD.Radentisparklingcouldwellchallengeboth.

FrogmoreCreekTasrw★★★OneofthefewAustralianproducerstomovefromorganic/biodynamicbacktoconventionalfarming.Wineisexcellent,regardless.Off-dry

RIES,age-worthyCHARD,undergrowthyPINOTN.GeelongVicRegionwestofMelbourne.Excellentperformersince

re-establishmentinthemid-1960s.Cool,dryclimate.NamesinclBANNOCKBURN,BYFARR,Curlewis,LETHBRIDGE,BellarineEstate,SCOTCHMANSHILL.

GemtreeVineyardsMcLarenV,SAr(w)★★Warm-heartedSHIRAZalongsideTEMPRANILLOandotherexotica,linkedbyquality.Largelybiodynamic.

GeoffMerrillMcLarenV,SArw★EbullientmakerofGeoffMerrillandMtHurtlebrands.Winereportmixed.

GiacondaBeech,Vicrw★★★★(CHARD)96’00’02’04’05’06’08’10’(SHIRAZ)02’04’06’08’Inthemid-1980sRickKinzbrunnerdidthatrarething:walkedupasteep,rocky,untriedhillandcamedownanelitewine-grower.RegardedbymanyasAustralia’sbestChardproducer.ExcellentShiraz.NEBBIOLOofpromise.

Glaetzer-DixonTasrw★★★TheGLAETZERclanisfamousinAustraliaforcuddlywarm-climateSHIRAZ.ThenNickGlaetzerset-upshopincoolTASMANIAandhitthejackpotwithEuro-styleRIES,RhôneyShirazandmeatyPINOTN.

GlaetzerWinesBarossaV,SAr★★Hyper-rich,unfiltered,v.ripeold-vineSHIRAZledbyiconicAmon-Ra.V.gdexamplesofhigh-octanestyle.

GoulburnValleyVicOldregionintemperatemid-Victoria.Full-bodied,savourytablewines.MARSANNE,CABSAUV,SHIRAZthepick,TAHBILKandMITCHELTONthemainstaywineries.AlsoreferredtoasNagambieLakes.

GrampiansVicRegionpreviouslyknownasGreatWestern.TemperateregioninnorthwestVictoria.High-quality,spicySHIRAZandsparklingShiraz.

GraniteBeltQldHigh-altitude,(relatively)cool,improbableregionjustnorthofQueensland/NSWborder.SpicySHIRAZandrich

SEM.GrantBurgeBarossaV,SArw(br)(sw)(sp)★★Smoothreds

andwhitesfromthebestgrapesofBurge’slargev’ydholdings.Beginningtostir.

GreatSouthernWARemotecoolarea;Albany,Denmark,FranklandRiver,MountBarkerandPorongurupareofficialsubregions.First-classRIESandSHIRAZ.

GreenstoneVineyardHeathcote,Vicr★★PartnershipbetweenDavidGleaveMW(London),AlbertoAntonini(Italy)andAustralianviticulturistMarkWalpole;v.gdSHIRAZ,gdSANGIOVESE.

GrossetClareV,SArw★★★(RIES)00’02’03’06’07’10’12’(Gaia)90’91’96’98’99’02’04’05’06’Fastidiouswinemaker.ForemostAustralianRies,lovelyCHARDandv.gdGaiaCABSAUV/MERLOT.

HangingRockMacedon,Vicrwsp★★(HeathcoteSHIRAZ)00’

01’02’04’06’08’SuccessfullymovedupmarketwithsparklingMacedonandHeathcoteShiraz,butquietoflate.

HarcourtValleyVineyardsBendigo,Vicr★★Unremarkableforyrsbutfollowingafamilytragedythisestatehassprungthoroughlytolife.Dense,syrupy,seductiveSHIRAZ,MALBEC,CABSAUV.2011redslesssuccessful.

Hardysrw(sw)sp★★★(EileenCHARD)01’02’04’0506’08’09’10’(EileenSHIRAZ)70’96’98’02’04’06’07’HistoriccompanynowpartofACCOLADE.Topendexcellentbutlookingforsomelove.

HeathcoteVicThe500-million-yr-old,blood-redCambriansoilhasgreatpotentialtoproducehigh-qualityreds,espSHIRAZ.Juststartingtoliveuptoitshype.

HeggiesEdenV,SArwdr(sw)★★V’ydat500metresownedbySSmith&Sonswithv.gdRIESandVIOGNIER.

HenschkeEdenV,SArw★★★★(SHIRAZ)58’84’86’90’91’

96’98’0102’04’06’07’(CABSAUV)86’8890’96’9899’02’04’06’Pre-eminent140-yr-oldfamilybusinessknownfordelectableHillofGrace(Shiraz),v.gdCabSauvandredblends,gdwhitesandscaryprices.

HewitsonSEAusr(w)★★★()98’99’02’05’06’09’10’DeanHewitsonsourcesparcelsoffv.oldvines.SHIRAZandvarietalreleasefrom“oldestMOURVÈDREvinesontheplanet”.

HollickCoon,SArw(sp)★GdCABSAUV,SHIRAZ.Livelyrestaurantwithv’ydviews.

HoughtonSwanV,WArw★★FamousoldwineryofWesternAustralia.NowpartofACCOLADE.Soft,ripeSupremeistop-selling,age-worthywhite;anationalclassic.V.gdCABSAUV,SHIRAZ,etc.sourcedfromMARGARETRIVERandGREATSOUTHERN.

HowardParkWArw★★★(RIES)97’99’02’0405’07’08’09’11’12’(CABSAUV)88’94’96’99’01’05’07’09’(CHARD)01’02’0405’07’08’09’10’ScentedRies,Chard;spicyCabSauv.

SecondlabelHunterValleyNSWGreatnameinNSW.Mid-weight,earthy

SHIRAZandgentleSEMthatcanlivefor30yrs.Classicterroir-drivenstyles.

IslanderEstate,TheKangI,SArw★InterestingoutpostofJacquesLurtonofBordeaux.GRENACHE,MALBEC,CABSAUV/SHIRAZ/VIOGNIERallgd.

Jacob’sCreek(Orlando)BarossaV,SArw(br)(sw)sp★★Pioneeringcompany,ownedbyPernodRicard.AlmosttotallyfocusedonvarioustiersofJacob’sCreekwines,coveringallvarietiesandprices.

JasperHillHeathcote,Vicrw★★★(SHIRAZ)85’96’97’98’99’02’04’06’08’09’10’.Emily’sPaddockShiraz/CABFRblendandGeorgia’sPaddockShirazfromdry-landestateareintenseandlong-lived.Biodynamic.

JimBarryClareV,SArw★★★Greatv’ydsprovidev.gdRIES,

McCraeWoodSHIRAZandrichlyrobedandoakedTheArmaghShiraz.

FirstAussieAssyrtikoontrackfromJimBarry:vinesfromSantorini,10years+fromimporttofirstwine.

JohnDuvalWinesBarossaV,SAr★★★JohnDuval–formerchiefredwinemakerforPENFOLDS(andGrange)–makesthataresuppleandsmooth,yetamplystructured.

KaeslerBarossaV,SAr(w)★★Wineintheglassgenerallygd(inheroicstyle)thoughalcohollevelsoftenintrude.Oldvines.

KatnookEstateCoon,SArw(sw)(sp)★★(OdysseyCABSAUV)91’92’94’96’97’98’0001’02’05’08’PriceyiconsandProdigySHIRAZ.Cannilyoaked.Standard2009CabSauvv.gd.

KeithTullochHunterV,NSWrw★★Ex-RothburywinemakerfastidiouslycraftingelegantyetcomplexSEM,SHIRAZ,etc.

KilikanoonClareV,SArw★★→★★★RIESandSHIRAZexcellentperformersinrecentyrs.Luscious,beautifullymade,heroicredsingeneral.

KingstonEstateSEAusrw★Kaleidoscopicarrayofvarietalwinesfromallovertheplace,consistencyandvalueprovidingtheglue.

KingValleyVicAltitudebetween155–860metreshasmassiveimpactonvarietiesandstyles.Around30brandsheadedbyBROWNBROTHERS,DalZotto,ChrismontandPIZZINI.

KnappsteinWinesClareV,SArw★ReliableRIES,CABSAUV/MERLOT,SHIRAZandCabSauv.OwnedbyLIONNATHAN.

KooyongMorPen,Vicrw★★★PINOTNandCHARDofpowerandstructure,PINOTGRofcharm.Single-v’ydwines.WinemakerSandroMoselleandteamhaveestablishedthisestateasamongAustralia’sfinest.

LakeBreezeLangC,SAr(w)★★Long-termgrape-growers

turnedwinemakers;succulentlysmooth,valueSHIRAZandCABSAUV.

Lake’sFollyHunterV,NSWrw★★(CHARD)97’99’00’01’04’05’07’(CABSAUV)69’89’9397’98’03’05’07’FoundedbyMaxLake,pioneerofHUNTERVALLEYCabSauv.ChardoftenbetterthanCabSauvblend.

LangmeilBarossaV,SArw★★Ownstheworld’soldestblockofSHIRAZ(plantedin1843)plusotheroldv’yds,makingopulentShiraz.

LarryCherubinoWinesFranklandR,WArw★★★Ex-HOUGHTONwinemakernowputtingrunsontheboardunderhisownname.IntenseSAUVBL,RIES,spicyShirazandcurrantyCABSAUV.Ambitiouslabelwithmultipleranges.

LazyBallerinaMcLarenV,SAr★★YoungviticulturistJamesHookcallshiswinerynewsletterWineFightClubandmakesrobustredstomatch,mostlywithSHIRAZ.

LeasinghamClareV,SArw★★Once-importantbrandwithv.gdRIES,SHIRAZ,CABSAUVandCabSauv/MALBECblend.Huskofitsformerself.BrandownedbyACCOLADE;v’ydsandwinerysoldoff.ClassicClareSparklingShirazitsbestwine.

LeeuwinEstateMargaretR,WArw★★★★(CHARD)87’92’97’99’01’02’04’05’0607’08’09’LeadingWestAustraliaestate.Superb,age-worthyArtSeriesChard.SAUVBLandgdbutnotinthesameclass.CABSAUVv.gdandimproving.

LeoBuringBarossaV,SAw★★★79’84’91’9498’02’0405’06’08’12’PartofTWE.ExclusivelyRIES;Leonaytoplabel,agessuperbly.

LethbridgeVicrw★★★Stylish,small-runproducerofCHARD,SHIRAZ,PINOTN.Itsreputationgrowsannually.

LimestoneCoastZoneSAImportantzone,inclBordertown,COONAWARRA,MtBenson,MtGambier,PADTHAWAY,Robe,WRATTONBULLY.

Lindeman’srw★★OwnedbyTWE.Low-priceBinrangenowitsmainfocus,afarcryfromformerglory.Lindeman’sCOONAWARRATrioredsv.gdbutunexciting.

LionNathanNZbrewery;ownsKNAPPSTEIN,PETALUMA,STHALLETT,STONIER,TATACHILLA.

MacedonandSunburyVicAdjacentregions:Macedonhigherelevation,SunburynrMelbourneairport.CRAIGLEE,GraniteHills,HANGINGROCK,BINDI,CURLYFLAT,EPIS.

McLarenValeSAHistoricregiononsouthernoutskirtsofAdelaide.Big,alcoholic,flavoursomeredshavegreatappealintheUSA,butCORIOLE,CHAPELHILL,WIRRAWIRRA,GEMTREEandgrowingnumberofothersshoweleganceaswellasflavour.Single-sitewinesagrowingregionalemphasis.

McWilliam’sSEAusrw(br)(sw)★★Family-owned.Interestingstageofitslonghistory.Qualityofthemuch-lovedElizabethSEMiswavering,thoughthecheaperHanwoodblendsarestill

outstandingvalueinmanypartsoftheworld.LovedaleSemsoconsistentthatvintagesirrelevant.O’SheaSHIRAZcanbev.gd.

McWilliam’snewMothervinebottlingismadefromMothervine6,fromwhichmostPinotNoirinOz–untilthepastdecade–waspropagated.

MainRidgeEstateMorPen,Vicrw★★★Rich,age-worthyCHARD,PINOTN.PeninsulapioneerNatWhiteboaststhattheregionhasnowmadeallofitsmistakes“becauseImadethemall”.

MajellaCoon,SAr(w)★★★TopofCOONAWARRAcream.SHIRAZandCABSAUVoftenbetterthanthesuper-premiumMalleeaCabSauv/Shiraz.

MargaretRiverWATemperatecoastalareasouthofPerth.Australia’smostvibranttouristwine(andsurfing)region.MakespowerfulCHARD,structuredCABSAUV,spicySHIRAZ.

MayfordNEVic,Vicrw★★Tinyv’ydinaprivate,hiddenvalley.Starproducerofitsregion.SHIRAZ,CHARD,excitingTEMPRANILLO.

MeereaParkHunterV,NSWrw★★BrothersGarthandRhysEatherhavetaken20yrstobeanovernightsuccess.Age-worthySEM,CHARD,SHIRAZ.

MikePressWinesAdHills,SArw★Tinyproduction,tinypricing.SHIRAZ,CABSAUV,CHARD,SAUVBL.Hasfastbecomeacrowdfavouriteamongbargainhunters.

MitcheltonGoulburnV,Vicrw(sw)★ReliableproducerofRIES,SHIRAZ,CABSAUV,plusspecialityofandROUSSANNE.Newownerstogivetheplacearev.

Mitolor★★High-qualitySHIRAZandCABSAUV;BenGLAETZERwinemaker.Heroicbut(often)irresistiblewines.

MoorillaEstateTasrw(sp)★★NrHobartonDerwentRiver.V.gdRIES,CHARD;PINOTN.Superbrestaurantandextraordinary

artgallery.MoorooducEstateMorPen,Vicrw★★★Stylishand

sophisticated(wildyeast,etc.)produceroftop-flightCHARDandPINOTN.Influential.

MoppityVineyardsHilltops,NSWrw★★MakinganameforResSHIRAZ/VIOGNIER(Hilltops)andCHARD(TUMBARUMBA).

MorningtonPeninsulaVicExcitingwinesincoolcoastalarea40kmsoutheastofMelbourne.Scoresofqualityboutiquewineries.Brillianttouristdestination.

MorrisNEVic(r)(w)br★★★★RUTHERGLENproducerofAustralia’sgreatestdessertMUSCATSandTokays/TOPAQUEs.

MossWoodMargaretR,WArw★★★(CABSAUV)80’85’90’91’04’05’07’08’MakesMARGARETRIVER’smostopulentwinesfromits11.7ha.SEM,CHARD,super-smoothCabSauv.Oak-heavy.

MountHorrocksClareV,SArw★★★Fine,dryRIESandsweet

CordonCutRies;Chardbestinregion.SHIRAZandCABSAUVgettingbetter.

MountLangiGhiranGrampians,Vicrw★★★★(SHIRAZ)89’93’96’05’06’08’09’Rich,peppery,Rhône-likeShiraz,oneofAustralia’sbestcool-climateversions.V.gdsparklingShiraz,too.SisterofYERINGSTATION.

MountMaryYarraV,Vicrw★★★(PINOTN)97’9900’02’05’06’(Quintet)84’86’88’90’92’96’98’02’04’06ThelateDrJohnMiddletonmadetinyamountsofsuaveCHARD,vividPinotNand(bestofall)CABSAUVblend.Allageimpeccably.Juryincreasinglyoutonmodernera.

MudgeeNSWLong-establishedregionnorthwestofSydney.Bigreds,surprisinglyfineSEMandfullCHARD.Strugglingtogaintractionoflate.

MurrayValleySAVastirrigatedv’yds.Nowatthecentreofthedrought/climate-changefirestorm.

NgeringaAdHills,SArw★★Perfumed,biodynamicallygrownPINOTN.RhôneySHIRAZ.Complexityiskinghere.

NinthIslandTasSeePIPERSBROOK(Kreglinger).OchotaBarrelsBarossaV,SArw★★★Quixoticproducer

makinghaywith(mostly)old-vineGRENACHEandSHIRAZfromMCLARENVALEandtheBAROSSA.Leaderofthe“newguard”fromtheseregions.

O’LearyWalkerWinesClareV,SArw★★★Low-profilewinerybutexcellentquality.CLAREVALLEYRIESandCABSAUVarethestandouts.MCLARENVALEsHIRAZisoak-heavybutgd,too.

OrangeNSWCool-climate,high-elevationregion.LivelySHIRAZ(whenripe)butexcellentSAUVBLandCHARD.

Screwcaptakesthecake

TheAustralianwineindustryissoproud–andpleasedwiththeperformance–ofitswidespreadmovetoscrewcaps(fromcorks)overthepastdecadethatin2012ithonouredtheconvenientclosurewithitsgrandestprize:theMauriceO’SheaAward.Bothredandwhitesarenowproventoageunderscrewcaps,andnootherclosurepresentswineintheconditionitswinemakerintendedthewaythescrewcapdoes:themainstayofOz,winemakersbelieve.

PadthawaySALargeareadevelopedasoverspillofCOONAWARRA.V.gdSHIRAZandCABSAUV.Salinityisanissue.

Pannell,SCMcLarenV,SAr★★★Ex-HARDYSchiefwinemakerStevePannellnowwithhisownlabel.ExcellentSHIRAZand(esp)GRENACHE-basedwines.NEBBIOLOrising.Outstandingoflate.

ParingaEstateMorPen,Vicrw★★★★MakerofspectacularPINOTNandSHIRAZ.Fleshy,fruity,flashystyles.Irresistible.

PaxtonMcLarenV,SAr★★Significantv’ydholder.Largelyorganic/biodynamic.RipebutelegantSHIRAZandGRENACHE.Hugelyinfluential–byitsdeeds–inAustralia’sbiodynamicmovement.

PembertonWARegionbetweenMARGARETRIVERandGREATSOUTHERN;initialenthusiasmforPINOTNreplacedbyRIES,CHARD,MERLOT,SHIRAZ.

PenfoldsOriginallyAdelaide,noweverywhererw(br)(sp)★★★→★★★★(Grange)52’53’55’60’62’63’66’71’76’78’83’86’90’94’96’98’99’02’04’05’06’(CABSAUVBin707)64’66’76’86’90’91’96’98’02’04’06’07’08ConsistentlyAustralia’sbestwarm-climateredwinecompany.Grange(wascalledHermitage)deservedly★★★★.YattarnaCHARDandBinChardnowofcomparablequalitytoreds.St

HenriSHIRAZmuchloved.PenleyEstateCoon,SArw★Rich,textured,fruit-and-oakCAB

SAUV;SHIRAZ/CabSauvblend;CHARD.Redscuriously,andpersistently,highinalcohol.

PerthHillsWAFledglingarea30kmeastofPerth,withalargenumberofgrowersonmildhillsidesites.MillbrookandWesternRangebest.

PetalumaAdHills,SArwsp★★★(RIES)02’04’05’06’‘11(CHARD)01’03’04’0506’(CABSAUVCOONAWARRA)79’90’9198’99’04’05’07’‘08CreatedbyindustryleaderBrianCroser.Redsricherfrom1988on.FellpreytoLIONNATHANin2002.

PeterLehmannWinesBarossaV,SArw(br)(sw)(sp)★★★DefenderofBAROSSAVALLEYfaith.Consistentlywell-pricedwinesinsubstantialquantities.LuxuriousStonewellSHIRAZandoutstandingResBinSEMandRIES.

PewseyValeAdHills,SAw★★★GloriousRIES,espThe

Contours,releasedunderscrewcapwith5yrs’bottle-age.PianoPianoBeech,VicrwNewproducerworkingav’ydinthe

nextpaddockalongfromGIACONDA.Powerfulbarrel-fermentedCHARD.

PierroMargaretR,WArw★★(CHARD)96’99’00’01’02’0305’06’07’08’09’Producerofexpensive,tangySEM/SAUVBLandbarrel-fermentedChard.

PipersBrookTasrwsp★★(RIES)99’00’01’02’04’06’07’09’(CHARD)00’02’05’07’08’Cool-areapioneer;gdRies,fromTamarValley.Secondlabel:NinthIsland.OwnedbyBelgianKreglingerfamily.

PirramimmaMcLarenV,SArw★Century-oldfamilybusinesswithlargev’ydsmovingwiththetimes;snappynewpackaging,thewinesnotforgotten.

PizziniKingV,Vicr★★(NEBBIOLO)98’02’05’06’LeadsthechargetowardsItalianvarietiesinAustralia.Nebbiolo,

SANGIOVESEandblends.Butvintagesoflatehavebeendifficult.PlantagenetMtBarker,WArw(sp)★★Theregion’selder

statesman:widerangeofvarieties,esprichCHARD,SHIRAZandvibrant,potentCABSAUV.

PrimoEstateSArwdr(sw)★★★JoeGrilli’smanysuccessesinclv.gdMCLARENVALEspicySHIRAZ/SANGIOVESE,richShiraz,tangyCOLOMBARDandpotentJosephCABSAUV/MERLOT.

PunchYarraV,Vicrw★★★★TheLancefamilyranandestablishedDiamondValleyfordecadesbutwhentheysold,theyretainedtheclose-plantedPINOTNv’yd.Itgrowsdetailed,decisive,age-worthywines.Firesof2009haveonlystrengthenedtheirresolve.

PyreneesVicCentralVictorianregionproducingrich,oftenmintyreds.DALWHINNIE,TALTARNI,BLUEPYRENEES,MtAvoca,FLETCHERandDogRockwineriesallascendant.

RichmondGroveBarossaV,SAw★GdRIESatbargainprices;

notmuchelse.OwnedbyJACOB’SCREEK.RiverinaNSWLarge-volumeirrigatedzonecentredonGriffith.RobertOatleyWinesMudgee,NSWrw★★RobertOatley

createdROSEMOUNTESTATE.Ambitionburnsanew.Qualityslowlyimproving.NewFinisterrerangev.gd.

RockfordBarossaV,SArwsp★★→★★★★Smallproducerfromold,low-yieldingv’yds;redsbest,alsoiconicsparklingBlackSHIRAZ.

RosemountEstaterw★Amajorpresenceinproductionterms.Inthedoldrumsfornearlyadecadebutrecentqualitystirrings.

RuggabellusBarossaV,SAr★★★Newoutfitcausingastir.Funkier,moresavouryversionoftheBAROSSA.Oldoak,minimalsulphur,wildyeast,wholebunches/stems.BlendsofGRENACHE,SHIRAZ,MATARO,CINSAULT.

RutherglenandGlenrowanVicTwooffourregionsinthenortheastViczone,justlyfamousforsturdyredsand

magnificentfortifieddessertwines.StHallettBarossaV,SArw★★★(OldBlock)86’90’91’98

99’01’02’05’06’08’09’OldBlockSHIRAZthestar;restofrangeissmooth,stylish.LIONNATHAN-owned.

SaltramBarossaV,SArw★★Excellent-valueMamreBrook(SHIRAZ,CABSAUV)andprestigeNo1Shirazareleaders.Underestimated.TWE-owned.

Samuel’sGorgeMcLarenV,SAr★★★JustinMcNameehashairlikeSideshowBob(TheSimpsons)butismakingSHIRAZandTEMPRANILLOofcharacterandplace.Thewinesaregettingbetter,too.

SandalfordSwanV,WArw(br)★★Fineoldwinerywithcontrastingstylesofredandwhitesingle-grapewinesfromSWANVALLEYandMARGARETRIVERregions.

SavaterreBeech,Vicrw★★★(PINOTN)02’04’06’08’10’Toughrunofseasonsbutav.gdproducerofCHARDandPinotN.

Close-planted.SHIRAZabouttobearfruit.ScotchmansHillVicrw★Makessignificantquantitiesofcool-

climatePINOTN,CHARDandspicySHIRAZ.SeppeltGrampians,Vicrwbr(sw)sp★★★(StPeter’sSHIRAZ)

71’8586’91’96’97’99’02’04’05’0608’09’HistoricnameownedbyTWE.Impressivearrayofregion-specificRIES,CHARD,SHIRAZ.

SeppeltsfieldBarossaV,SArbr★★NationalTrustHeritageWineryboughtbyKILIKANOONin2007.Fortifiedwinestocksbackto1878.Tablewinesreleasedin2012promising.

SetantaWinesAdHills,SArw★★TheSullivanfamily,first-generationAustraliansoriginallyfromIreland,makewonderfulRIES,CHARD,SAUVBL,SHIRAZ,CABSAUV,withIrishmythologylabelsofstrikingdesign.

SevenhillClareV,SArw(br)★OwnedbytheJesuiticalManresaSocietysince1851.ConsistentlygdSHIRAZ;RIES.

Fiftiesrevival:OrlandomightrelaunchBarossaPearl(swsp).BlameMoscatocraze.

SevilleEstateYarraV,Vicrw★★★(SHIRAZ)9497’99’02’04’05’06’08’10’ExcCHARD,Shiraz,PINOTN.Abuzzaboutthisplaceoflate.

ShadowfaxVicrw★★Stylishwinery,partofWerribeePark;alsohotelbasedon1880smansion.V.gdCHARD,PINOTN,SHIRAZ.

Shaw&SmithAdHills,SA(r)w★★★FoundedbyMartinShawandAustralia’sfirstMW,MichaelHill-Smith.Crisp,harmoniousSAUVBL;complex,barrel-fermentedM3CHARDand,surpassingthemboth,SHIRAZ.

ShelmerdineVineyardsHeathcote,Vicrw★★ElegantwinesfromestateintheYARRAVALLEYandHEATHCOTE.PINOTNcanbev.gd.

SouthCoastNSWZoneNSWInclShoalhavenCoastandSouthernHighlands.

SouthernNSWZoneNSWInclCANBERRA,Gundagai,Hilltops,TUMBARUMBA.

SpinifexBarossaV,SArw★★★Small,high-qualityproducerofcomplexSHIRAZandGRENACHEblends.Nothingover-the-top.Wonderfulproducer.

Stanton&KilleenRutherglen,Vicrbr★★★TheuntimelydeathofChrisKilleenin2007wasmajorblow;hischildrencarryoningdstyle.Fortifiedvintagethestar.

StefanoLubianaSTasrwsp★★★Beautifulv’ydsonthebanksoftheDerwentRiver20minutesfromHobart.ExcellentPINOTN,sparkling,MERLOTandCHARD.

StellaBellaMargaretR,WArw★★★Humdingerwines.CABSAUV,SEM/SAUVBL,CHARD,SHIRAZ,SANGIOVESE/CabSauv.Highlyindividual.Sturdy,lengthy,characterful.

StoneyRiseTasrw★★★InanotherlifeJoeHolymanwaswicketkeeperfortheTasmaniancricketteam;heholdsthefirst-classrecordforthemostnumberofcatchesondebut.HisoutstandingPINOTNandCHARDnowcatchTassie’scoolrays;Joelooksafterallsundrywinemakingtasks.

StonierWinesMorPen,Vicrw★★(CHARD)02’04’05’06’07’08’(PINOTN)00’02’04’0506’07’08’09’Consistentlygd;Res’snotablefortheirelegance.OwnedbyLIONNATHAN.

SunburyVicSeeMACEDONANDSUNBURY.SwanValleyWALocated20minutesnorthofPerth.Birthplaceof

wineinthewest.Hotclimatemakesstrong,low-acidwines;beingrejuvenatedforwinetourism.FABERV’YDSleadingthequalityway.

TahbilkGoulburnV,Vicrw★★★(MARSANNE)74’82’92’97’99’01’03’05’06’07’08’10’(SHIRAZ)68’71’76’8698’02’04’0506’Historicfamilyestate:long-ageingreds,alsoRIESand

someofAustralia’sbestMarsanne.ResCABSAUVoutstanding;valueformoneyditto.Rare1860VinesShiraz.

TaltarniPyrenees,Vicrwsp★★SHIRAZ,CABSAUVbestshapeinyrs.Long-haulwinesbutjackhammernolongerrequiredtoremovethetanninfromyourgums.

TamarRidgeNTasrw(sp)230ha+ofvinesmakethisamajorplayerinTASMANIA.Acquiredin2010byBROWNBROTHERS.

TapanappaSAr★★★WRATTONBULLYcollaborationbetweenBrianCroser,BollingerandJ-MCazesofPauillac.SplendidCABSAUVblend,SHIRAZ,MERLOT.SurprisingfromFleurieuPeninsula.

TarraWarraYarraV,Vicrw★★★(CHARD)02’04’05’06’08’09’10’(PINOTN)00’0102’04’05’06’10’Movedfromhefty,idiosyncratictoelegant.Resbetterthanstandard.

TasmaniaProductioncontinuestosurgebutstillsmall.OutstandingsparklingPINOTNandRIESincoolclimate,CHARD,

SAUVBLandPINOTGRv.gd.TatachillaMcLarenV,SArw★Significantproductionofwhites

andgdreds.AcquiredbyLIONNATHANin2002.Offtheboil.TaylorsWinesClareV,SArw★★Large-scaleproductionledby

RIES,SHIRAZ,CABSAUV.ExportsunderWakefieldWinesbrandwithsuccess.

TenMinutesbyTractorMorPen,Vicrw★★★Wackyname,smartpackaging;rapidlygrowingunderMartinSpedding.ChardandPinotNbothexcellent,andwillage.

TeusnerBarossaV,SAr★★★Oldvines,cleverwinemaking,purefruitflavours.LeadsaBAROSSAVALLEYtrendtowards“morewood,nogood”.Allaboutthegrapes.

TopaqueVicIconicRUTHERGLENstickyTokaygainsa(somewhatbizarre)newnamethankstotheEU.

AustraliangrowersaremadforItalianvines:Nerod’Avola,

Arneis,Negroamaro,Vermentino…

TorbreckBarossaV,SAr(w)★★★ThemoststylishofthecultwineriesbelovedoftheUSA.Focusonold-vineRhônevarietiesledbySHIRAZ.Rich,sweet,highalcohol–asipgoesalongway.

TorziMatthewsEdenV,SAr★★Aromatic,stylishSHIRAZ.Lower-pricedwinesoftenasgd.TorziSchistRockShirazdifficulttosay,politely,afteraglassortwo–butwellworthatry.

TreasuryWineEstates(TWE)Aussiewinebehemoth.MergerofBeringerBlassandSouthcorpwinegroups.Dozensofwell-knownbrands,LINDEMAN’S,PENFOLDS,WYNNS,DEVIL’SLAIR,COLDSTREAMHILLS,SALTRAMamongthem.

TrenthamEstateVic(r)w★★60,000casesofsensiblypricedwines,family-grownand-made,from“boutique”wineryonMurrayRiver.

TumbarumbaNSWCool-climateNSWregionnestledintheAustralianAlps.Sitesbetween500–800metres.CHARDthestar.

TurkeyFlatBarossaV,SArp★★Topproducerofbright-colouredrosé,GRENACHE,SHIRAZfromcoreof150-yr-oldv’yd.Controlledalcohol,oak.Newsingle-v’ydwines.

TwoHandsBarossaV,SAr★★CultwinerywithgdSHIRAZfromPADTHAWAY,MCLARENVALE,LanghorneCreek,BAROSSAVALLEYandHEATHCOTEstuffedfullofalcohol,richfruitandthekitchensink.

Tyrrell’sHunterV,NSWrw★★★★(SEM)99’00’01’05’07’08’09’10’11’(Vat47CHARD)00’02’04’05’07’09’10’Australia’sgreatestmakerofSem,Vat1nowjoinedwithaseriesofindividualv’ydorsubregionalwines.Vat47,Australia’sfirstChard,continuestodefytheclimaticodds.Outstandingold-vine4AcresSHIRAZandVat9Shiraz.

VasseFelixMargaretR,WArw★★★(CABSAUV)97’98’99’01

04’07’08’09’WithCULLEN,pioneerofMARGARETRIVER.ElegantCabSauvformid-weightbalance.Generallyresurgent.ComplexCHARDonrapidrise.

VoyagerEstateMargaretR,WArw★★★Sizeablevolumeof(mostly)estate-grown,rich,powerfulSEM,SAUVBL,CHARD,CABSAUV/MERLOT.Terrificquality.

WendoureeClareV,SAr★★★Treasuredmaker(tinyquantities)ofpowerful,tannicandconcentratedreds,basedonSHIRAZ,CABSAUV,MOURVÈDRE,MALBEC.Recentlymovedtoscrewcap.Buyforthenextgeneration.

WestCapeHoweDenmark,WArw★★Theminnowthatswallowedthewhalein2009whenitpurchased7,700-tonneGoundreywineryand237haofestatev’yds.V.gdSHIRAZandCABSAUVblends.

WestendEstateRiverina,NSWrw★Thrivingfamilyproduceroftastybargains,espPrivateBinSHIRAZ/Durif.Creative,

charismaticBillCalabriaisincharge.Recentcool-climateadditionsv.gdvalue.

WillowCreekMorPen,Vicrw★★Gdgear.ImpressiveproducerofCHARD,PINOTNinparticular.Ex-STONIERwinemakerGeraldineMcFaulincharge.

WirraWirraMcLarenV,SArw(sw)(sp)★★★(RSWSHIRAZ)98’99’02’04’05’06’07’09’10’(CABSAUV)97’98’01’02’04’05’06’09’10’High-qualitywinesinflashynewlivery.RSWShirazhasedgedinfrontofCabSauv.TheAngelusCabSauvnamedDeadRingerinexportmarkets.

WolfBlassBarossaV,SArw(br)(sw)(sp)★★(BlackLabel)90’91’96’98’02’04’0506’07’08’OwnedbyTWE.Notnoisyplayeritwasbutstillavolumename.

WoodlandsMargaretR,WAr(w)★★★7haof30-yr-old+CABSAUVamongtopv’ydsinregion,plusyoungerbutstillv.gdplantingsofotherBordeauxreds.Flying.

WrattonbullySAImportantgrape-growingregioninLIMESTONECOASTZONEfor30yrs;profileliftedbyrecentarrivalofTAPANAPPAandPeppertree.

WynnsCoon,SArw★★★★(SHIRAZ)55’6386’90’91’94’96’98’99’04’05’06’09’10’(CABSAUV)57’60’82’85’86’90’91’94’96’98’00’02’04’05’06’08’09’10’TWE-ownedCOONAWARRAclassic.RIES,CHARD,Shirazandareallv.gd,espBlackLabelCabSauvandJohnRiddochCabSauv.Recentsingle-v’ydreleasesaddlustre.

YabbyLakeMorPen,Vicrw★★★JointventureamongmoviemagnateRobertKirby,LarryMcKennaandTodDexter.QualityonsharprisesincewinemakerTomCarsonarrived.Single-sitePINOTNandSHIRAZexcellent.

YalumbaBarossaV,SA,SArwsp★★★163yearsyoung,family-owned.Fullspectrumofhigh-qualitywines,frombudgettoelitesingle-v’yd.Inoutstandingform.Entry-levelY

Seriesexcellentvalue.YarraValleyVicHistoricareanortheastofMelbourne.Growing

emphasisonv.successfulPINOTN,CHARD,SHIRAZ,sparkling.DeceptivelygdCABSAUV.

YarraYarraYarraV,Vicrw★★★Increasedto7ha,givinggreateraccesstofineSEM/SAUVBLandCABSAUV,eachinclassicBordeauxstyle.

YarraYeringYarraV,Vicrw★★★★(DryReds)80’81’82’838485’90’91’93’9497’99’00’01’02’04’05’06’08’09’Best-knownLilydaleboutiquewinery.PowerfulPINOTN;deep,herbyCABSAUV(DryRedNo1);SHIRAZ(DryRedNo2).Luscious,daringflavoursinredandwhite.Much-admiredfounderBaileyCarrodusdiedin2008.Acquiredin2009byKAESLER.

YellowTailNSWSeeCASELLA.YeringbergYarraV,Vicrw★★★(MARSANNE)959798’00’02’

040506’09’(CABSAUV)77’8081’84’88’9097’9800’020405’06’08’10’Dreamlikehistoricestatestillinthehandsoffoundingfamily.Smallquantitiesofv.-high-qualityMarsanne,ROUSSANNE,CHARD,CabSauv,PINOTN.

YeringStation/YarrabankYarraV,Vicrwsp★★OnsiteofVic’sfirstv’yd;replantedafter80-yrgap.YeringStationtablewines(ResCHARD,PINOTN,SHIRAZ,VIOGNIER);Yarrabank(v.gdsparklingwinesinjointventurewithChampagneDevaux).

ZemaEstateCoon,SAr★Oneofthelastbastionsofhand-pruninginCOONAWARRA.Powerful,straightforwardreds.Lookingforaspark.

NewZealand

Inaworldmadforvariety,NewZealand’sflagshipSauvignonBlancisbeginningtolookalittlerepetitive.SauvignonBlancfromMarlboroughalonenowaccountsfor18,000haofthecountry’stotalvineyardareaof35,000ha:that’squitealotofeggsinonebasket.Eventhereproducersarestartingtolookforalittlemorecomplexity,alittlemoreterroirexpression,tovarythedietofgrassyfruitwithatouchofresidualsugar.Forconsumers,moreexcitementcanbefoundinPinotNoir,especiallyinthebold,dried-herb,black-cherryflavoursofCentralOtago(knownlocally,bizarrely,as“Central”,althoughit’sthebackofbeyond)andthejammiernotesofMartinborough.Cabernet-,Merlot-andSyrah-loversshouldlooktoGimblettGravels,acar-park-flatareaofHawke’sBayintheNorthIslandthatseemstohavetheabilitytoturnoutBordeauxblendstorivaltheclassedgrowths,andSyrahtorivaltheNorthernRhône.Butthosereallyinsearchofnoveltyare

seizingonGrünerVeltliner,AlbariñoandArneis–allgrapesthatwereconsiderednovelintheirrespectiveEuropeanhomesofAustria,IberiaandItalynotsoverylongago.

Recentvintages2012 Low-yielding;exceptionallycool,dryseasoninMarlborough,

producingveryracySauvBl.ColdandwetinHawke’sBay,favouringwhitewines.CentralOtagofaredbest,withafavourablysunny,warm,dryautumn.

2011Biggest-everharvest.Summercombinedextremeheatwithseriousfloods.Regionsinmiddleofcountry,includingMarlborough,faredbest;elsewhere,astifftestofgrape-growingandwinemakingskills.

2010Aromatic,stronglyflavouredMarlboroughSauvBlwithfirmacidspine.Hawke’sBayhadoutstandingChard.

2009Aromatic,intenseandzingyMarlboroughSauvBlandconcentrated,ripeHawke’sBayreds.CentralOtagofrostyandcool,withvariablePinotN.

AkaruaCOtr(p)(w)★★★Well-respectedproduceratBannockburn.PowerfulResPINOTN,v.impressivemid-tierPinotN;v.gd,drink-youngstyle,Rua.Fresh,racyCHARD,intenseRIES,scented,fullPINOTGR.Vivaciousnewsparklings:NV,Rosé.

AllanScottMarlrwsp★★Medium-sizedfamilyproducer.Gd,slightlysweetRIES;elegant,skilfullyoakedCHARD;tropical-fruit-flavouredSAUVBLandsturdy,spicyPINOTN.Recentfocusonsingle-v’yd,organicandsparklingwines.

AlphaDomusHawkrw★★V.gdCHARDandVIOGNIER.Concentrated,Bordeaux-stylereds,espsavouryMERLOT-basedTheNavigator(09),andnotablydark,richCABSAUV-basedTheAviator(10’).TopwineslabelledAD(superbNobleSelectionfromSEM).Fragrant,finelytexturedSyrah.Everydayrange,ThePilot.

AmisfieldCOtrpw★★Impressive,fleshy,smoothPINOTGR;

tense,minerallyRIES(drsw);lively,ripeSAUVBL;classyPinotRoséandfloral,complexPINOTN(RKVResisRolls-Roycemodel07).LakeHayesislower-tierlabel.

AraMarlrw★★Hugev’ydinWaihopaiValleyforSAUVBLandPINOTN.Dry,ripe,minerallySauvBl;floral,full-flavouredPinotN.Top-tier:Resolute,followedbySelectBlocks,thenSingleEstate,thenPathway.Typicallygd-value.

AstrolabeMarlrw★★Labelpart-ownedbywinemakerSimonWaghorn.Best-knownforrich,harmoniousVoyageSAUVBL(oak-agedTaihoaSauvBlespgenerous,complex.)AlsogdPINOTGR,RIES,CHARD,PINOTN.Secondlabel:Durvillea.

AtaRangiMartr(p)(w)★★★Small,highlyrespected.Seductivelyfragrant,powerful,long-livedPinotN(06’070809’10):oneofNZ’sgreatest.V.gdyoung-vineCrimsonPinotN.Rich,concentratedCraighallCHARDandLismorePINOTGR.

AucklandLargestcity(northern,warmandcloudy)inNZwith1%

ofv’ydarea.NearbywinedistrictsareHenderson,Kumeu/Huapai/Waimauku(bothlongestablished)andnewer(since1980s)Matakana,Clevedon,WaihekeIsland.Stylish,ripe,savoury,Bordeaux-styleredsindryseasons(05’,08’,10’),boldSYRAH(increasinglyprominent);gd,underratedCHARD.

AuntsfieldMarlrw★★Excellentwinesfromsiteoftheregion’sfirstv’yd,planted1873,uprooted1931,replanted1999.Strong,tropical-fruitSAUVBL,fleshy,richCHARD;sturdy,densePINOTN(Heritage09’esppowerful).Newrangeofsingle-blockwines,inclbarrel-fermented,v.rich,ripe,roundedSouthOaksSauvBl.

AwatereValleyMarlKeysubregion,withfewwineriesbuthugev’ydarea(morethanHAWKE’SBAY),pioneeredin1986byVAVASOUR.SlightlycooleranddrierthantheWAIRAUVALLEY,withracy,herbaceous,minerallySAUVBL;tight,vibrantPINOTGR;andscented,oftenslightlyleafyPINOTN.

BabichHendrw★★→★★★Sizeablefamilyfirm(1916).

HAWKE’SBAY,MARLBOROUGHv’yds.Refined,age-worthy,single-v’ydIrongateCHARD(10’,11)andv.elegantIrongateCAB/MERLOT/CABFR(10’,09’,07’05’).Ripe,dryMarlboroughSAUVBLisbigseller.Mid-tierWinemakers’Res(oak-agedSauvBlespgd).

BaldHillsCOtr(p)(w)★★Bannockburnv’ydwithcrisp,dryPINOTGR;floral,full-bodied,slightlysweetRIESandgenerous,savoury,complexPINOTN(10’).

BellHillCantrw★★★Tiny,elevatedv’ydonlimestone,ownedbyMarcelGIESENandSherwynVeldhuizen.Rarebutstrikinglyrich,finelytexturedCHARDandgorgeouslyscented,powerful,velvetyPINOTN.Secondlabel:OldWekaPass.

BilanciaHawkr(w)★★★SmallproducerofclassySYRAH(inclv.powerful,nutty,spicy,hill-grownLaCollina09’,08,07),floral,pepperySyrah/VIOGNIER;andPINOTGR(Resisricher,sweeter).LaCollinaWhiteisViognier/GEWURZ.

BlackenbrookNel(r)w★★Smallwinery:outstandingaromaticwhites,esphighlyperfumed,rich,Alsace-styleGEWURZ,PINOTGRand(rarer)MUSCAT.PunchySAUVBL;fleshy,suppleResPINOTN;v.promisingMONTEPULCIANO.Secondlabel:StJacques.

BorthwickWairrw★★V’ydatGladstonewithlively,tropical-fruitSAUVBL;rich,dryishRIES;peachy,toastyCHARD;fleshy,dryPINOTGR;perfumed,muscularPINOTN.

BrancottEstateMarlrw★→★★★BrandformerlyusedbyPERNODRICARDNZonlyintheUSA,asasubstituteforMontana,butsince2010hasreplacedtheMontanabrandworldwide.Topwines:LetterSeries(eg.“B”BrancottSAUVBL).Biggest-selling:crisp,grassyMARLBOROUGHSauvBl(onemillioncases/annum.);floral,smooth,easy-drinkingSouthIslandPINOTN.New,middle-tierSpecialResrangefrom2012(richSauvBlandPINOTGR).

BrightwaterNel(r)w★★Impressivewhites,espcrisp,flavour-

packedSAUVBL;fresh,pure,med-dryRIES;lively,citrus,gentlyoakedCHARD,andrich,gentlysweetPINOTGR.PINOTNfastimprovingandgdvalue.Topwineslabelled“LordRutherford”.

BrookfieldsHawkrw★★Established1977,winerybuiltin1937.Powerful,long-lived,“goldlabel”CABSAUV/MERLOT;gdCHARD,PINOTGR,GEWURZ,SYRAH(espspicyHillsideSyrah).Satisfying,mid-pricedBurnfootMerlotandOhitiCabSauv.

CableBayWaihrpw★★Mid-sizedproducerwithv.refinedWaihekeCHARD;sturdy,complexVIOGNIERandoutstanding,bold,yetstylishSYRAH.Subtle,fine-texturedMARLBOROUGHSAUVBL.Secondlabel:Selection(formerlyCulley).

CanterburyNZ’s5th-largestwineregion;almostalltopv’ydsareinwarm,sheltered,northernWaiparadistrict.GreatestsuccesswithRIESandPINOTN.EmergingstrengthsinGEWURZandPINOTGR.SAUVBLalsowidelyplanted.

CarrickCOtrw★★★BannockburnwinerywithintenseRIES

(dry,mediumCENTRALOTAGO,andsweetishJosephine)anddenselypackedPINOTN(10’),builttolast.Drink-youngstyleUnravelledPinotNisalsosturdyandrich.

CentralOtago(r)0910’12(w)10’12Cool,low-rainfall,high-altitudeinlandregion(nowNZ’sthird-largest)insouthernSouthIsland.CentreisQueenstown.Scented,crispRIESandPINOTGR;PINOTNnotablyperfumedandsilky,withplentyofdrink-youngcharm.PromisingChampagne-stylesparkling.

ChardFarmCOtrw★★Rich,citrus,mediumRIES,fleshy,oilyPINOTGRandtypicallyperfumed,mid-weight,supplePINOTN(RiverRun:floral,charming;Mata-Aumorecomplex).Alsolight,smoothRabbitRanchPinotN.

ChurchRoadHawkrw★★→★★★PERNODRICARDNZwinerywithdeepHAWKE’SBAYroots.RichstyleofCHARD;ripe,partlyoak-agedSAUVBL;dark,full-flavouredMERLOT/CABSAUV(v.gd-value).Top-flightReswines;prestigeclaret-styleredTOM(02’

07’).NewMcDonaldSeries–betweenthestandardandResranges–offerseye-catchingqualityandvalue.

ChurtonMarlrw★★★Elevated,WaihopaiValleysitewithsubtle,complex,bone-dry,finelytexturedSAUVBL;sturdy,creamyVIOGNIER;andfragrant,spicy,harmoniousPINOTN(10’)(espTheAbyss–oldestvines,greaterdepth).

ClearviewHawkrpw★★→★★★Coastalv’ydatTeAwanga(alsodrawinggrapesfromfurtherinland)withbold,savouryResCHARD(10’);impressiveoak-fermentedResSAUVBL;dark,richResCABFR;Enigma(MERLOT-based);OldOliveBlock(CABSAUVandCabFrblend).Secondtier:Beachhead,CapeKidnappers.

CliffordBayMarlrw★→★★Easy,affordablewines–SAUVBLisbest,withfresh,racygooseberryandlime;floral,smoothPINOTN.EntrylabelofFoleyFamilyWinesNZ;VAVASOURistopbrand.

ClosHenriMarlrw★★→★★★EstablishedbyHenriBourgeois(Sancerre).Delicious,weighty,well-roundedSAUVBL(growninstonysoilsandpartlybarrel-fermented),oneofNZ’sfinest;vibrant,supplePINOTN(claysoils).Secondlabel(basedonlesspreferredsoiltype):BelEcho.Thirdlabel(basedonyoungvines):PetitClos.

ClosMargueriteMarlrw★★Single-v’ydAWATEREVALLEYwines.Unusuallysweet-fruited,mineral,longSAUVBListhestar(inclAgedonLees,bottledafterayrlees-ageingintank);alsomid-weight,savouryPINOTN.

CloudyBayMarlrw★★★Large-volumeSAUVBL(weighty,dry,finelytextured,somebarrelagingsince2010)–NZ’smostfamouswine(12’).CHARD(robust,complex,crisp)andPINOTN(rich,supple)bothclassy.Pelorusvintagesparkling(toasty,rich,elegant),Chard-ledNV.RarerGEWURZ,LateHarvestRIES,barrel-aged,medium-dryRiesandTeKoko(oak-agedSauvBl);

allfullofpersonality.CENTRALOTAGOPinotN(TeWahi)since2010.OwnedbyLVMH.

ConstellationNewZealandAuckrw★→★★NZ’s2nd-largestwinecompany,wasNobiloWineGroup,nowownedbyUS-basedConstellationBrands.Strengthinsolid,mid-pricedwines.NobiloMARLBOROUGHSAUVBL(fresh,ripe,tropical)isnowbiggest-sellingSauvBlintheUSA.SuperiorvarietalslabelledNobiloIcon(weighty,ripelyherbaceousSauvBlespimpressive);v.gdDrylandsSauvBl.SeeKIMCRAWFORD,MONKEYBAY,SELAKS.

Cooper’sCreekAuckrw★★Innovative,medium-sizedproducerwithextensiverangeofgd-valuewinesfromfourregions.ExcellentSwampResCHARD;v.gdSAUVBL,RIES;MERLOT;top-valueVIOGNIER.SV(SelectV’yd)rangeismid-tier.NZ’sfirstARNEIS(2006),firstGRÜNERVELTLINER(2008),firstALBARIÑO(2011).

CraggyRangeHawkrw★★★High-flying,mid-sizedwinery:largev’ydsinHAWKE’SBAY,MARTINBOROUGH.V.stylishCHARD,PINOTN;excellentmid-rangeMERLOTandSYRAHfromGIMBLETTGRAVELS;strikinglydense,ripeSophia(Merlot),TheQuarry(CABSAUV)andshow-stoppingSYRAHLeSol(10’09’0807’).Mostrecentredsaremoresupple,refined.CheaperregionalblendslabelledWildRock.

Darling,TheMarl★★WinemakerChrisDarlingandviticulturistBartArnst(ex-SERESIN)produceorganicSAUVBL(rich,ripe,partlybarrel-fermented)andseductivelysweet,low-alcoholstyleMoscatoInspiredSauvBl;aswellasv.gdPINOTGR,GEWURZ,PINOTN.

SauvignonBlancwithadifferenceMostSAUVBLfromNZplacetheiraccentssquarelyonfresh,

herbaceousfruitflavours,appetizinglycrispanddirect.Butsometoplabels(suchasLAWSON’SDRYHILLSandSERESIN),althoughhandledmostlyintanks,are5–15%barrel-fermented,whichaddsarealtouchofcomplexitywhilebarelysubduingtheirintensefruitaromasandflavours.Other,fullybarrel-agedmodels,suchasCLOUDYBAYTeKokoandDOGPOINTSection94,aimforamarkedlyricher,riper,rounderstyle:weighty,complexandcreamy-textured.HAWKE’SBAYalsoproducessometop-flight,wood-agedSauvBl,suchasTEMATACapeCrestandCLEARVIEWRes.

Delegat’sAuckrw★★V.largecompany(twomillioncases/annum),controlledbybrother-and-sisterteam,JimandRoseDelegat.V’ydsinHAWKE’SBAYandMARLBOROUGH.ResCHARD,MERLOTandCABSAUV/Merlotofferv.gdqualityandvalue.HugelysuccessfulOYSTERBAYbrand.

DeltaMarlrw★★Ownedbyconsultant-winemakerMattThomson,UKimporterDavidGleaveandothers.Vibrant,tropicalsingle-v’ydSAUVBL;floral,silkyPINOTN.Toplabel:Hatter’sHill(richer,morenewoak)fromelevatedsitewithclaysoils.

DestinyBayWaihr★★★ExpatriateAmericansproduceBordeaux-stylereds:lush,bramblyandsilky.Flagshipissubstantial,deep,savouryMagnaPraemia(08’mostlyCABSAUV).Mid-tier:Mystae(09).Allclassy,butv.high-priced.

DeutzAucksp★★★ChampagnehousegivesnametorefinedsparklingsfromMARLBOROUGHbyPERNODRICARDNZ.NVislively,yeasty,intense(min2yrsonlees).VintageBlancdeBlancs(08)isfinelyscented,vivacious,piercing(NZ’smostawardedbubbly).Roséiscrisp,yeasty,strawberryish.

DistantLandAuckrw★★Newishbrandfromoldfamilywinery(Lincoln.)Crisp,strongMARLBOROUGHSAUVBL;well-spiced

GEWURZandscented,rich,nectarine-andpear-flavouredMarlboroughPINOTGR.

DogPointMarlrw★★★GrowerIvanSutherlandandwinemakerJamesHealy(bothex-CLOUDYBAY)maketight,minerally,complex,oak-agedSAUVBL(Section94),CHARD(restrained,age-worthy),andrich,v.finelytexturedPINOTN(10’),oneofregion’sgreatest.Alsoweighty,dry,unoakedSauvBl.

DryRiverMartrw★★★Smallwinery,nowUS-owned.Reputationforelegant,long-livedCHARD,RIES,PINOTGR(NZ’sfirstoutstandingPinotGr),GEWURZ;late-harvestwhites;floral,sweet-fruited,slowlyevolvingPINOTN(07’08’09’,10).

Wai=waterinMaoriplacenames:Wairarapa,Wairau,Waiheke,Waitaki,Waipara,Waimea.

ElephantHillHawkr(p)w★★German-ownedv’yd,stylish

wineryatTeAwanga(coast).SophisticatedpureVIOGNIER;richCHARD;scentedPINOTGR,floralSYRAH.

EradusMarl★★AWATEREVALLEYproduceroffreshlyherbaceous,strong-flavouredSAUVBL,v.gdPINOTGRandfloral,supple,charmingPINOTN.

EscarpmentMartr(w)★★★Fleshy,barrel-fermentedPINOTGR;robustCHARD.Best-knownforconcentratedPINOTNfromLarryMcKenna,ex-MARTINBOROUGHV’YD.Toplabel:Kupe(10’).Single-v’yd,old-vineredslaunched(2006).MartinboroughPinotNisregionalblend(10’).TheEdgePinotN:drinkyoung.

EskValleyHawkrpw★★→★★★OwnedbyVILLAMARIA.SomeofNZ’smostvoluptuousMERLOT-basedreds(espWinemakersRes10’09’07’06’);excellentMerlot/MALBECRosé;full-bodied,peachy,butteryCHARD,crisp,dryishCHENINBLandVERDELHO.Flagshipred:TheTerraces(fragrant,powerful,spicy,single-v’ydblend,Malbec/Merlot/CABFR09’

06’04’).FairhallDownsMarlrw★★Single-v’ydwinesfromelevated

BrancottValleysite.Weighty,dryPINOTGR;peachy,nutty,full-flavouredCHARD;rich,sweet-fruitedSAUVBL;perfumed,smoothPINOTN.Secondlabel:Torea(gdvalue).

FeltonRoadCOtrw★★★StarwineryinwarmBannockburn.Bold,supple,gracefulPINOTNBlock3and5(08’0910’,11)fromTheElmsV’yd;light,intenseRIES(drs/sw)outstanding;rich,citrus,long-livedCHARD(espBlock2);perfumed,beautifullypoised,regularPinotN(fromthreesites.)Othersuperbsingle-v’ydPinotNoirs:CornishPoint,Calvert.

ForrestMarlrpw★★Mid-sizewinerywithv.widerange.ReliableSAUVBLandRIES;gorgeousbotrytizedRies;flavour-crammedHAWKE’SBAYNewton/ForrestCornerstone(Bordeauxredblend).Distinguishedflagshiprange,JohnForrestCollection.Popularlow-alcohol(9%)RiesandSauvBl:The

Doctors’.FoxesIslandMarlrw★★Smallishproducer,basedinAWATERE

VALLEY.Rich,smoothCHARD,finelytexturedSAUVBL,scented,richRIESandelegant,supplePINOTN.

FraminghamMarl(r)(p)w★★OwnedbySogrape(seePortugal).Finearomaticwhites:intense,zestyRIES(esprichClassic)from30-yr-oldvines.Perfumed,lush,slightlysweetPINOTGR,GEWURZ.Subtle,drySAUVBL.Scented,silkyPINOTN.F-Series(innovativewines,inclseveralravishingbutv.raresweetRies).

FrommMarlrw★★★Sturdy,long-livedPINOTN,espFrommV’yd(dense,firmlystructured,10’09’)andClayvinV’yd(moreperfumed,supple10’).Alsostylish,citrus,mineralClayvinCHARD,RIESDry.Earlier-drinkingLaStradarangealsov.gd.

GibbstonValleyCOtrpw★★→★★★Pioneerwinerywith

popularrestaurantatGibbston.Mostv’ydsatBendigo.StrongreputationforPINOTN–esprichCENTRALOTAGOblendandrobust,exuberantlyfruityRes(09’).Racy,medium-dryRIESandscented,full-bodiedPINOTGR.GoldRiverPinotN:drink-youngcharm.

GiesenCant(r)w★→★★Largefamilywinery.Mostisfresh,tangyMARLBOROUGHSAUVBL.Generous,gentlyswRIESgd-value.PunchyTheBrothersSauvBl,weighty,barrel-fermentedTheAugustSauvBl.Fast-improvingPINOTN(espTheBrothers).

GimblettGravelsHawkDefinedarea(800haplanted),withmostlyv.free-drainingsoilsnotedforrich,ripeBordeaux-stylereds(typicallyMERLOT-predominant,butstonysoilssuitCABSAUV)andfloral,vibrantSYRAH.Bestofbothareworld-class.Alsopowerful,age-worthyCHARD,VIOGNIER.

Gisborne(r)10’(w)10’NZ’s4th-largestregion,butplantedareais

declining.Abundantsunshinebutoftenwetinautumn(esp2012),withfertilesoils.KeystrengthisCHARD(deliciouslyfragrantandsoftinyouth,butthebestmaturewell.)ExcellentGEWURZ,VIOGNIER;MERLOT,PINOTGRmorevariable.

GladstoneVineyardWairrw★★TropicalSAUVBL(Sophie’sChoiceisoak-aged,rich,creamy);weighty,smoothPINOTGR;gddryRIES;classyVIOGNIER;v.gracefulPINOTNundertoplabel,Gladstone;12,000Milesislower-pricedbrand.

GrasshopperRockCOtr★★→★★★Estate-grownatAlexandra.Thesubregion’sfinestred(10’):strongcherryanddried-herbflavours.Greatvalue.

GreenhoughNelrw★★→★★★Oneofregion’stopproducers,withimmaculateRIES,SAUVBL,CHARD,PINOTN.Toplabel:HopeV’yd(complexChard;powerful,old-vinePINOTBL;mushroomyPinotN08’10.)

GreystoneWaip(r)w★★★Emergingstarwithfull-bloomed,

rich,finelytexturedaromaticwhites(espRIES,butalsosuperbGEWURZ,PINOTGR);fast-improvingCHARDandSAUVBL;promisingPINOTN.PurchasedMuddyWaterin2011.

GreywackeMarlrw★★→★★★LabelofKevinJudd,ex-CLOUDYBAY.Namedafterasoiltype(pronounced“greywacky”).Poised,pureandpenetratingSAUVBL;weighty,complexCHARD;fleshyPINOTGR;gentlysweetRIESandsilky,savouryPINOTN.

GroveMillMarlrw★★Attractivewhites,esppunchySAUVBL,slightlysweetRIES,redslessexciting.Gd-value,lower-tierSanctuarybrand.Financialproblemsinrecentyrs,nowpartofFoleyFamilyWinesempire(VAVASOUR,Goldwater,etc.).

Haha★★FromFernRidge,basedinHAWKE’SBAY.Flavour-packedMARLBOROUGHSAUVBLandfragrant,moderatelycomplexMarlboroughPINOTN,bothbargain-priced.

HansHerzogMarlrw★★★Hot,stonyv’ydatRapaurawith

power-packed,classy,long-livedMERLOT/CABSAUV(region’sgreatest);MONTEPULCIANO;PINOTN;sturdy,dryVIOGNIER,PINOTGR;fleshy,oak-agedSAUVBL.SoldunderHansbrand(Europe,USA).

Hawke’sBay(r)07’0809’10’(w)10’NZ’s2nd-largestregion.Longhistoryofwinemakinginsunny,warmclimate.Full,rich,v.classyMERLOTandCABSAUV-basedredsingdvintages;SYRAH(floral,vibrantplumandblackpepperflavours)afast-risingstar;powerful,peachyCHARD;ripe,roundedSAUVBL(suitsoak);NZ’sbestVIOGNIER.CentralHawke’sBay(elevated,cooler)suitsPINOTN.

HighfieldMarlrwsp★★StunningviewsfromTuscan-styletower.Light,intenseRIES;citrus,mealyCHARD;immaculate,racySAUVBLandgenerous,savouryPINOTN.Elstreesparklingvariablelately.Secondlabel:Paua.

HuiaMarl★★Smallishproduceroforganicwines,inclrichSAUV

BL,CHARD,RIES,GEWURZ,PINOTGRandbold,savouryPINOTN.Lower-pricedrange:HunkyDory.

Hunter’sMarl(r)(p)w(sp)★★→★★★Pioneering(since1982)medium-sizedwinery,withclassic,dry,tropical-fruitSAUVBL.Vibrant,gentlyoakedCHARD.Excellentsparkling(MiruMiru).RIES,GEWURZ,PINOTGRallrewarding.Whitesespgdvalue.

InvivoAuckrw★★Energeticcompanywithgd-value,intense,nettley,mineralMARLBOROUGHSAUVBLandCentRALOTAGOPINOTN(variablequality).

IsabelEstateMarlrw★→★★FamilyestatewithformerlyoutstandingPINOTN,SAUVBLandCHARD,butlatelyvariablequality.Crisp,dryishPINOTGR.

JacksonEstateMarlrw★★Rich,ripeStichSAUVBLisconsistentlyoutstanding;v.attractive,gentlyoakedCHARD;classy,sweet-fruitedPINOTN.Typicallygdvalue.

JohanneshofMarl(r)wsp★★Smallwineryacclaimedforv.

perfumed,gentlysweet,softGEWURZ(oneofNZ’sfinest).Crisp,dry,livelysparkling;gdRIESandPINOTGR.ExcellentbotrytisRiesandlate-harvestGewurz.

JulesTaylorMarlrpw★★Growingvolumeoffleshy,rich,creamyPINOTGR,exuberantlyfruity,concentratedSAUVBLandfloral,charmingPINOTN.

JulicherMartrw★★Smallproducer:gdwhites(espvibrant,citrus,slightlybiscuityCHARD),savouryPINOTN(10’).99Rowsis2nd-tierPinotNandv.gdvalue.

KimCrawfordHawk★→★★BrandownedbyCONSTELLATIONNEWZEALAND.Easy-drinkingRegionalResrange;scentedMARLBOROUGHSAUVBL(largevolume,gd-quality).ToprangeSP(SmallParcel),inclweightySpitfireSauvBl.

KumeuRiverAuck(r)w★★★Rich,refinedKumeuEstateCHARD;single-v’ydMate’sV’ydChard(planted1990)evenmoreopulent.BothamongNZ’sgreatest.Weighty,floralPINOT

GR;sturdy,earthyPINOTN.LakeChaliceMarl(r)w★★Medium-sizedproducerwith

vibrant,creamyCHARDandincisive,slightlysweetRIES;gdSAUVBL(espTheRaptor–intense,zingy).SubstantialPINOTN;gdvalue.Platinumpremiumlabel.Secondlabel:TheNest.

Lawson’sDryHillsMarl(r)(p)w★★→★★★Weightywines,intenseflavours.Incisive,v.lightlyoakedSAUVBL,exoticallyperfumed,sturdyGEWURZ.Dry,toasty,bottle-agedRIESandCHARD.Fast-improvingPINOTN.Top-endrange:ThePioneer.

LindauerAuck★★Popularsparklingbrand:espbottle-fermented,low-pricedBrutsoldin2010byPERNODRICARDNZtoLion.Latestshowv.gdmaturity,complexity.

MarlboroughPinotNoirCENTRALOTAGOandWAIRARAPA(inclMARTINBOROUGH)arethe

regionsmostacclaimedforPINOTN,butnearlyhalfofNZ’sPinotNvinesareinMARLBOROUGH.ThehighinternationalprofileofMarlborough’sflavour-packed,zingySAUVBLhasslowedrecognitionoftheoutstandingqualityofitsbestPinotN,whichliemidwaybetweentheweighty,savoury,masculinestyleofMartinboroughandthemorefeminine,buoyantlyfruityandfloralstyleofCENTRALOTAGO.PinotNisyieldingitsmostrefinedandsupplewinesinelevated,clay-basedsitesonthesouthsideoftheWAIRAUVALLEY.ThetoplabelsinclDOGPOINTV’yd,FROMMClayvinV’yd,TERRAVINHillsideResandVILLAMARIARe.

LowburnFerryCOtr★★PINOTNspecialist.FlagshipisTheFerryman(elegant,feminine10’).AlsoHomeBlock(fleshy,silky10’);SkeletonCreek(notestate-grown,butconcentrated,complex.)

MahiMarlrw★★Stylish,complexwines.Sweet-fruited,finelytexturedSAUVBL(partlyoak-aged),weighty,vibrant,gentlyoakedCHARD;full-bodied,bone-dryPINOTGR;andsavoury,mushroomyPINOTN.

ManO’WarAuckrw★★Largestv’ydonWaihekeIsland.CrispwhitesfromCHARD,SAUVBLandPINOTGR(grownonadjacentPonuiIsland).Dense,Bordeaux-stylereds(espIronclad)andpowerful,spicy,firmDreadnoughtSYRAH.

MargrainMartrwsp★★Smallwinerywithtight,age-worthyCHARD,RIES,PINOTGR,GEWURZandCHENINBL.Rich,complexPINOTN.River’sEdgeisearly-drinking.

MariscoMarlrw★★OwnedbyBrentMarris,ex-WITHERHILLS.Fast-growingWaihopaiValleyproducerwithtwobrands,TheNedand(latterly)MariscoTheKing’sSeries.Well-regardedSAUVBL,CHARD,PINOTGR,PINOTN.

Marlborough(r)10’12(w)12NZ’slargestregionbyfar(over

65%ofallplantings)attopofSouthIsland.Warm,sunnydaysandcoldnightsgivearomatic,crispwhites.IntenseSAUVBL,fromsharp,greencapsicumtoripetropicalfruit.Fresh,medium-dryRIES(recentwaveofsweet,low-alcoholwines);someofNZ’sbestPINOTGRandGEWURZ;CHARDisleanerthanHAWKE’SBAYbutcanmaturewell.High-qualitysparklingandbotrytizedRies.PINOTNunderrated,topexamples(fromclayhillsides)amongNZ’sfinest.

Martinborough(r)0910(w)10’Small,high-qualitydistrictinsouthWAIRARAPA(footofNorthIsland).Warmsummers,dryautumns,gravellysoils.Successwithseveralwhitegrapes(inclMARLBOROUGH-likeSAUVBL)butacclaimedsincemid-late1980sforsturdy,rich,long-livedPINOTN.

MartinboroughVineyardMartr(p)(w)★★★Distinguishedsmallwinery;famousPINOTN(07’10’):cherryish,spicy,nutty,complex.Rich,biscuityCHARD;intenseRIES(drs/sw);rich,

medium-dryPINOTGR.Alsosingle-v’ydBurntSpuranddrink-youngTeTeraranges(top-valuePinotN).

MatahiwiWairrw★→★★Oneofregion’slargerwineries.Toprange,Holly,inclrichCHARD;nuttySAUVBL;generous,savouryPINOTN.Secondlabel:MtHector.

MatuaValleyAuckrw★→★★ProducerofNZ’sfirstSAUVBL(1974).NowownedbyTWE;v’ydsinfourregions.GISBORNE(espJuddCHARD),HAWKE’SBAY,MARLBOROUGHwines;mostpleasant,easy-drinking.ShinglePeakSauvBl(crisp,lively)top-value.NewluxuryrangeofSingleV’ydwines,inclpowerful,notablycomplexMarlboroughChardandbold,flavour-packedMathesonMERLOT,MALBEC.

MillsReefBofPrw★★→★★★Impressivewinesfromestatev’ydsintheGIMBLETTGRAVELSandotherHAWKE’SBAYgrapes.Rich,finelycraftedCHARD.TopElspethrange,inclpowerfulBordeaux-styleredsandSYRAH(bothnowmorerefined,supple).

Resrangeredsalsoconcentrated,finevalue.MilltonGisrpw★★→★★★★Region’stopwinery;wines

certifiedorganic.Hill-grownsingle-v’ydClosdeSteAnnerange(CHARD,CHENINBL,VIOGNIER,SYRAH,PINOTN)isconcentrated,characterful.Rich,long-livedCheninBlisNZ’sfinest.RiverpointV’ydViognierclassyandgd-value.Lower-tierrange:CrazybyNature.

Misha’sCOtrw★★Largev’ydatBendigo.ConsistentlyclassyGEWURZ,PINOTGR,RIES;vibrant,tangySAUVBL;savoury,complexPINOTN(Verismoisoak-agedlonger).

MissionHawkrpw★★NZ’soldestwineproducer,vinesfirstplantedin1851,firstsalesinthe1890s–stillrunbyCatholicSocietyofMary.Solidvarietals:creamy-smoothCHARDandfruit-drivenSYRAHaretop-value.Resrangeincl:gdBordeaux-stylereds,Syrah,oak-agedSAUVBLandCHARD.Toplabel:Jewelstone(v.classyChardandCAB/MERLOT09’).Purchased

100haMARLBOROUGHv’ydin2012.MondilloCOtrw★★RisingstaratBendigowithscented,citrus,

slightlysweetRIESandenticinglyfloral,weighty,tastyPINOTN(1009’).

MonkeyBayrw★CONSTELLATIONNZbrand,modestlypriced,popularinUSA.Easy-drinkingCHARD;crisp,gentlysweetSAUVBL;lightPINOTGR;fresh,fruityMERLOT.

MortonEstateBofPrwsp★→★★V’ydsinHAWKE’SBAYandMARLBOROUGH.PowerfulBlackLabelCHARDandoutstandingConiglioChard(10’).WhiteLabelChardandPremiumBrutgdandtop-value;dittoVIOGNIERandPINOTGR.Redslessexciting.

MountRileyMarlrw★★Medium-sizedfamilyproducer.Punchy,gd-valueSAUVBL;finelytexturedPINOTGR;easy-drinkingPINOTN.ToprangeisSeventeenValley(elegant,complexCHARD.)Savee(NZ’sfirstsparklingSauvBl)since2000.

MtDifficultyCOtrpw★★QualityproducerinwarmBannockburn.RefinedPINOTNRoaringMeg(fromCromwellBasinv’yds)forearlyconsumption;Single-v’ydPipeclayTerracedenseandlasting.Plusclassywhites(RIES,PINOTGR)andsatisfyingrosé.

MuddyWaterWaiprpw★★→★★★Small,high-qualityproducer,boughtGREYSTONEin2011.Intense,livelyRIES(amongNZ’sbest),mineralCHARDandsavoury,notablycomplexPINOTN(espSlowhand09’basedonoldest,low-yieldingvines).

MudHouseCantrw★★LargeWAIPARA-basedwinerywithmostlySouthIslandwines(inclCENTRALOTAGOandMARLBOROUGH).BrandsinclMudHouse,WAIPARAHILLS,HayMaker(lowertier).Regionalblendsinclpunchy,herbaceousMarlboroughSAUVBL(classyandtop-value).ExcellentEstateselection(single-v’ydwines)andSingleV’ydrange(from

growers).NautilusMarlrw★★Medium-sized,v.reliablerangeof

distributorsNégociants(NZ),ownedbySSmith&Sons(seeYalumba,Australia).Topwines:stylishSAUVBL(releasedwithbottle-age),classyCHARD(tight-knit);savouryPINOTN,Alsace-stylePINOTGR;intense,yeastysparkler.Mid-tier:Opawa.Lowertier:TwinIslands.

Nelson(r)0910(w)10’SmallishregionwestofMARLBOROUGH;climatewetterbutequallysunny.ClaysoilsofUpperMouterehills(full-bodiedwines)andsiltyWAIMEAplains(morearomatic).Strengthsinaromaticwhites,espRIES,SAUVBL,PINOTGR,GEWURZ;alsogd(sometimesoutstanding)CHARDandPINOTN.

NeudorfNelrpw★★★→★★★★Topsmallwinery.Powerful,mineralMoutereCHARD(0910’11)oneofNZ’sgreatest;superb,savouryMouterePINOTN(espHomeV’yd0910’).SAUV

BL,PINOTGR,RIESalsotop-flight.Delightful,dryPinotRosé.NgatarawaHawkrw★★→★★★Mid-sizedproducer,owned

byCorbanfamily.TopAlwynrange:powerfulCHARD;generousMERLOT/CAB(09’)andhoney-sweetNobleHarvestRIES.Mid-rangeGlazebrookalsoexcellent.Stablesrangeisgdvalue.

No.1FamilyEstateMarlsp★★Family-ownedcompanyofDanielLeBrun,ex-Champagne.NolongerownstheDANIELLEBRUNbrand.Specialistinsparklingwine,esprefined,tight-knit,NVBlancdeBlancs,CuvéeNo1.

NobiloMarlSeeCONSTELLATIONNZ.ObsidianWaihrw★★→★★★V.stylishBordeauxblend(The

Obsidian08’10’),topbrandObsidianVIOGNIER,CHARD,SYRAH,TEMPRANILLO.Gd-valueWaihekereds(MERLOT,Syrah,MONTEPULCIANO,TEMPRANILLO)under2nd-tierWeepingSandslabel.

OysterBayMarlrw★★FromDELEGAT’S,thisisamarketing

triumph,withsalesexceeding1.5millioncases(incltheno.1whitewinespotinAustralia).Vibrantfruit-drivenwineswithatouchofclass,fromMARLBOROUGHandHAWKE’SBAY.SAUVBL,CHARD,PINOTGR;PINOTN,MERLOTandeasy-drinkingsparklings.

PalliserMartrw★★→★★★Oneofthedistrict’slargestandbest.Superb,tropical-fruitSAUVBL,excellentCHARD,RIES,PINOTGR,bubbly,andperfumed,rich,harmoniousPINOTN09’).Topwines:PalliserEstate.Lowertier:Pencarrow(great-value,risingshareofoutput).

PaskHawkrw★★Mid-sizewinery(wasCJPask).Extensivev’ydsinGIMBLETTGRAVELS.SYRAH,CABSAUVandMERLOT-basedredsundermid-tierGimblettRoadlabeloffergdvalueinfavourablevintages;CHARDandVIOGNIER,too.TopDeclarationrangelessconvincing.KateRadburndandRoy’sHill:everydaydrinking.

Pasqualerw★★Ex-patItalianAntonioPasqualeproducesv.gd,

typicallydry,aromaticwhites(RIES,GEWURZ,ARNEIS,PINOTGR,VIOGNIER;floral,freshPINOTNfromWAITAKIVALLEY(NorthOtago)andnearbyHakatarameaValley(SouthCANTERBURY10’).

PassageRockWaihrw★★Powerful,opulentSYRAH,espRes(Waiheke’smostawardedwine0810’);non-Resalsodense,fine-value(10’).GdBordeaux-stylereds,whitessolid(espVIOGNIER).

PegasusBayWaiprw★★★Pioneerfamilyfirmwithdistinguishedrange:taut,slow-evolvingCHARD;complex,oakedSAUVBL/SEM;rich,zingy,mediumRIES(biggestseller);powerful,complexGEWURZ;lush,silkyPINOTN(10’),espRes,mature-vinePrimaDonna.Secondlabel:MainDivide(gdvalue).

PeregrineCOtrw★★Crisp,concentratedwhites(espdryRIES;slightlysweetRastaburn.)Finelyscented,silky,gd-valuePINOT

N.SaddlebackPinotNespgd-value.

NZ’sc.700wineriesmakec.5,000wines,including700+SauvBl+800PinotNoir.

PernodRicardNZAuckrpw★→★★★NZwinegiant,formerlyMontana.Changessince2010inclsaleofmanybrands(espCorbans,LINDAUER)in2010;axingofkeyMontanabrandinfavourofBRANCOTTESTATE;saleoflargeGISBORNEwinery.WineriesinAUCKLAND,HAWKE’SBAYandMARLBOROUGH.Extensiveco-ownedv’ydsforMARLBOROUGHwhites,inclhuge-sellingBrancottEstateSAUVBL.Strengthinsparkling,espDEUTZMarlboroughCuvée.Classy,rich,gd-valueCHURCHROADredsandqualityCHARD.OtherkeybrandsinclSTONELEIGH(tropicalfruit-flavouredSauvBl)andTriplebank(vibrant,racyAWATEREVALLEYwines).

PisaRangeCOtr(w)★★→★★★Smallv’ydwithpowerful,

arrestinglyrichBlackPoplarPINOTN(08’0910’)andcrisp,dryPINOTGR.

PuririHillsAuckrp★★→★★★Silky,seductiveMERLOT-basedredsfromClevedon(08’10’).Resisesprichandplump,withmorenewoak.

PyramidValleyCantrw★★Tinyelevatedv’ydatWaikari.Estate-grown,floral,increasinglygenerousPINOTN(AngelFlower,EarthSmoke10’)andarrestinglyfull-bodiedCHARD(10’).ClassyGrowersCollectionwinesfromotherregions.

QuartzReefCOtrwsp★★→★★★Small,qualityproducerwithcrisp,citrusandspicePINOTGR;sturdy,deep,spicyPINOTN(10’11),BendigoEstateparticularlyconcentrated;intense,yeasty,racysparkling(vintageespgd).

RipponVineyardCOtrw★★→★★★Stunningv’ydonshoresofLakeWanaka.Scented,feminineMatureVinePINOTN(10’).JeunessePinotNfromyoungervines;powerful,complex

Tinker’sFieldPinotN(fromoldestvines10’).Slowlyevolvingwhites,espoutstanding,steely,minerallyRIES(10’11).

RockburnCOtrpw★★Crisp,racyCHARD,PINOTGR,GEWURZ,RIES,SAUVBL.Fragrant,richPINOTN(10’)isbestandanemergingstar.

SacredHillHawkrw★★→★★★PartlyChinese-owned.AcclaimedRiflemansCHARD(10’),powerfulbutrefined,frominland,elevatedsite.Powerful,dark,long-livedBrokenstoneMERLOT,HelmsmanCAB/MerlotandDeerStalkersSYRAHfromGIMBLETTGRAVELS(09’10).PunchyMARLBOROUGHSAUVBL.Halo:mid-tier.Otherbrands:GunnEstate,WildSouth(gd-valueMarlboroughrange).

SaintClairMarlrpw★★→★★★Largestfamily-ownedproducerintheregionwithextensivev’yds.HighlyacclaimedforSAUVBL–espgreat-valueregionalblendandstrikinglyconcentratedWairauRes.Easy-drinkingRIES,PINOTGR,CHARD,

MERLOTandPINOTN.Richlyperfumed,sweetlyoakedResChardandMerlot.Bewilderingarrayofclassy,2nd-tierPioneerBlockwines.Vicar’sChoiceislowertier.

SeifriedEstateNel(r)w★★Region’sbiggestwinery.Aromatic,medium-dryRIESandGEWURZ;nowalsogd-value,oftenexcellentSAUVBLandCHARD.Peachy,spicyGRÜNERVELTLINERsince2011.Best:WinemakersCollection(alsosoldunderAoteabrand).OldCoachRoadis3rdtier.Plainreds.

SelaksMarlrw★→★★OldproducerofCroatianorigin,nowabrandofCONSTELLATIONNZ.Solid,easy-drinkingPremiumSelectionrange.NewHeritageResselectionisgdvalue,esptangy,high-impactMARLBOROUGHSAUVBL.WinemakersFavouriterangealsooffersexcellentvalue,esprich,creamyHAWKE’SBAYCHARD.

SeresinMarlrw★★→★★★Subtle,sophisticatedSAUVBL(partlybarrel-fermentedandcertifiedorganic),isoneofNZ’s

finest.ExcellentCHARD,PINOTSNandGR,RIES;2nd-tierMomo(gdquality/value).Overall,complex,finelytexturedwines.

SileniHawkrpw★★Largeproducer,withclassyCHARD,MERLOTandMARLBOROUGHSAUVBL.Topwines:rareEV(ExceptionalVintage),thenarangewithindividualnames(incllushChard,TheLodge),thenCellarSelection(gd,easy-drinkingMerlotanddryPINOTGR).Rich,smoothMarlboroughSauvBl(espTheStraits).

SpyValleyMarlrpw★★→★★★High-achievingcompany;extensivev’yds.Rich,aromaticwhites(RIES,GEWURZ,PINOTGR)andv.gdSAUVBL,CHARD,MERLOT/MALBECandPINOTN;allpricedright.Satisfying,dryPinotNRosé.Superbtopselection:Envoy(inclrich,subtleChardandMosel-likeRies).Secondlabel:Satellite.

StaeteLandtMarlrw★★DutchimmigrantsproducingrefinedCHARD(biscuity,rounded),SAUVBL(fleshy,rich,tropicalfruit)

andPINOTGR(creamy,dry);gracefulPINOTN.PromisingVIOGNIERandSYRAH.Secondlabel:MapMaker.

StonecroftHawkrw★★Smallwinery.NZ’sfirstseriousSYRAH(since1989),moreRhônethanOz,Res(10’);SerineSyrahislighter.ReputationforoutstandingCHARD,richOld-VineGEWURZ.Newownershipsince2010.

StoneleighMarlrpw★★OwnedbyPERNODRICARDNZ.Gd,large-volumeMARLBOROUGHwhites–inclpunchy,tropicalSAUVBL;generous,floral,slightlysweetPINOTGR;fast-improving,savouryPINOTN.Mid-tierrange:Latitude(inclfleshy,sweet-fruitedSauvBl.)Topwines:RapauraSeries(fragrant,rich,silkyPinotN10’).

StonyridgeWaihrw★★★→★★★★Boutiquewinery.Famousforexceptional,CABSAUV-basedredLarose(05’060708’0910’),oneofNZ’sgreatest,maturessuperbly.AirfieldislittlebrotherofLarose.Alsopowerful,denseRhône-style

Pilgrimandsuper-chargedLunaNegraMALBEC.Secondlabel:FallenAngel.

TeAwaHawkrw★★GIMBLETTGRAVELSv’yd;reputationforBordeaux-likeMERLOT-basedreds.RecentpremiumKidnapperCliffsrange:classyCHARD;silkyAriki(mostlyMerlot);bold,pepperyPINOTAGE;elegantSYRAH.Purchasedin2012byVILLAMARIA.

TeKairangaMartrw★→★★Oneofdistrict’slargestwineries;historyofqualityissuesandfinancialproblems.Purchasedin2011byAmericanBillFoley(ownerofVAVASOUR,GROVEMILL),whoiskeentoelevatequality(espPINOTN).ModeratelycomplexEstatePinotNhasbeengdvalue;EstateRIESisstrong,tangy.

TeManiaNel★★Smallproducerwithfresh,livelyCHARD,GEWURZ,PINOTGR,RIES,racySAUVBLandgenerous,cherry-,spice-andherb-flavouredPINOTN.

TeMataHawkrw★★★→★★★★Prestigiouswinery(firstvintage1895).Coleraine(CABSAUV/MERLOT/CABFRblend)(98’00020405’06’07’0809’10’)isNZ’sclosestparalleltogreatBordeaux;lower-pricedAwateaCabernets/Merlot(09’10’)isalsoclassyandmoreforward.BullnoseSYRAH(09’10’)amongNZ’sfinest.Rich,elegantElstonCHARD(10’11).EstateV’yds(formerlyWoodthorpe)rangeforearlydrinking(v.gdChard,SAUVBL,GAMAYNoir,Merlot/Cab,Syrah/VIOGNIER).

TerraSanctaCOtr(w)★★OriginallyOlssens.Bannockburn’sfirstv’yd,founded1991,soldin2011andrenamed.Allwinesareestate-grown.V.gd-value,generous,drink-youngMysteriousDiggingsPINOTN;BannockburnPinotNismid-tier;dense,savourySlapjackBlockPinotNisfromoldestvines(10’).

TerraVinMarlrw★★→★★★Weighty,dry,tropicalSAUVBL,butrealfocusisrich,complexPINOTN,espHillsideRes(nowmultisite)andEatonFamilyV’yd(10’).Amongregion’sbest

reds.Newrangeoflower-pricedwines:AllThatJazz.TeWhauWaih★★→★★★Tiny,acclaimedv’ydand

restaurant.Ripe,complexCHARD;savoury,mostlyCABSAUVblend,ThePoint(05’08’10’).DenselypackedSYRAH.

TikiMarlw★★McKeanfamilyownsextensivev’ydsinMARLBOROUGHandWaipara.Winemaker:EvanWard(ex-MORTON).Punchy,vibrantandexpressive,easy-drinkingSAUVBL;fleshy,smoothPINOTGR.Secondlabel:Maui.

Tohurw★★Maori-ownedventurewithextensivev’yds.Racy,v.gd-valueSAUVBL;strong,medium-dryRIES;citrus,creamy,unoakedCHARDandincreasinglycomplexPINOTN,allfromMARLBOROUGH.Scented,weightyNELSONPINOTGR.

TrinityHillHawkrpw★★→★★★Innovativewinerywithconcentratedreds.Bordeaux-styleTheGimblettisrich,refined,v.gdvalue(09’10)andstylishblacklabelCHARD.ExceptionalHomageSYRAH:muscular,dense(09’10’).Impressive,plummy

TEMPRANILLO.Scented,softPINOTGRandVIOGNIERamongNZ’sbest.

TupariMarlw★★Classy,single-v’ydAWATEREVALLEYwinesmadebyGlennThomas(ex-VAVASOUR).Authoritative,minerally,racySAUVBL(drive,delicacy,depth);intense,livelydryRIES;scented,vibrantPINOTGR.

TwoPaddocksCOtr★★ActorSamNeillmakesseveralPINOTNs,inclsingle-v’ydFirstPaddock(moreherbal,fromcoolGibbstondistrict),LastChance(riper,fromwarmerAlexandra).PicnicbyTwoPaddocks:drink-youngregionalblend.

TwoRiversMarl★★ConvergenceSAUVBL–classy,deepwinefromWAIRAUandAWATEREVALLEYS.V.gdCHARD(mouthfilling,rich,creamy),PINOTGR,RIES,PINOTN.

UnisonHawkr(w)★★Dark,spicy,GIMBLETTGRAVELSblendsofMERLOT,CABSAUV,SYRAH.Selectionlabelisoak-agedthelongest(07’).Newownerssince2008.

ValliCOt★★★SmallcompanyownedbyGrantTaylor,ex-GIBBSTONVALLEYwinemaker.Superbsingle-v’ydPINOTN(espGibbston,Bannockburn,Bendigo)andstrikinglyintenseOldVineRIES(fromvinesplantedin1981).

VavasourMarlrw★★→★★★PlantedfirstvinesinAWATEREVALLEYin1986.Rich,creamyCHARDandvibrant,pure,nettleySAUVBL;promisingPINOTNandPINOTGR.VavasourAwatereValleyistoplabel;Dashwoodisregionalblend(aromatic,vibrantSauvBlistop-value).OwnershiplinktoGROVEMILL,TEKAIRANGA.

VidalHawkrw★★→★★★Est1905,ownedbyVILLAMARIAsince1976.SuperbLegacySeries(previouslyRes)CHARD(10’),fragrant,tight,long;andCABSAUV/MERLOT(intense,complex09’10).Mid-tier:ResSeries.Lower-tier:WhiteSeriesMerlot/CabSauvisgd-value.ImpressiveSYRAH(espLegacy09’10’.)

VillaMariaAuckrpw★★→★★★NZ’slargestfamily-ownedwinery,headedbySirGeorgeFistonich.Recent50thvintagecelebrations.AlsoownsVIDALandESKVALLEY.Greatsuccessincompetitions,esp(recently)withCHARD.Topranges:Res(expressregionalcharacter)andSingleV’yd(reflectindividualsites);CellarSelection:mid-tier(lessoak)isoftenexcellent;3rd-tierPrivateBinwinescanbev.gdandfine-value(espSAUVBL,butalsoGEWURZ,PINOTGR,VIOGNIER,PINOTN).Thornburybrand:rich,softMERLOTandv.perfumed,supplePinotN.

VinoptimaGisw★★→★★★SmallGEWURZspecialist,ownedbyNickNobilo(ex-NOBILOWines).Topvintages(06’)arepriceybutfullofpowerandpersonality.

VossMartrw★★Small,respectedproducerofperfumed,weighty,ResPINOTN(10’);RIES(dryish,citrus)andResCHARD(lush,complex).

WaimeaNelrpw★★Oneofregion’sbestwhiteproducers.

PunchySAUVBL;rich,roundedPINOTGRandGEWURZ;vibrantVIOGNIER;v.gdRIES(Classicishoneyed,mediumstyle).Toprange:BolithoSV.SpinybackandTakutairanges:DYA.

WaiparaHillsCantrw★★KeybrandofMUDHOUSE.Passionfruit/limeMARLBOROUGHSAUVBL;moderatelycomplexCENTRALOTAGOPINOTN.TopEquinoxrange:excellentdryishWAIPARAPINOTGR,v.floralWaiparaPinotNandrich,honeyedWaiparaRIES.

WaiparaSpringsCantrw★★Smallproducerofstrong,racyRIES(dryandmedium),gdSAUVBL,GEWURZandCHARD.Impressivetoprange:Premo,inclfragrant,concentratedPINOTN(10’)fromdistrict’soldestPinotNvines.

WairarapaNZ’s7th-largestwineregion(nottobeconfusedwithWaipara).SeeMARTINBOROUGH.AlsoinclGladstonesubregioninthenorth(slightlyhigher,cooler,wetter).Driest,coolestregioninNorthIsland;strengthinwhitesandespPINOTN(full-

bodied,warm,spicy).WairauRiverMarlrpw★★Ripe,tropicalfruitSAUVBL;full-

bodied,roundedPINOTGR;gentlysweetSummerRIES.Resistoplabel(weighty,richPINOTN).

WairauValleyMarlMARLBOROUGH’slargestsubregion(firstv’ydplantedin1873;modernerasince1973),stillwithmostoftheregion’swineries.Threeimportantsidevalleystothesouth:Brancott,OmakaandWaihopai.SAUVBLthrivesonstony,siltyplains,PINOTNonclay-based,north-facingslopes.

WaitakiValleyCOtSlowlyexpandingsubregioninNorthOtago.Limestonesoils;cool,frost-proneclimate.V.promisingPINOTN,PINOTGRandRIES.NearbyHakatarameaValleyisinSouthCANTERBURY.

WhitehavenMarlrw★★Flavour-packed,harmoniousSAUVBListop-valueandabigsellerintheUSA.Rich,softGEWURZ;citrus,slightlybutteryCHARDandfull-of-charmPINOTN.Gallo(see

California)ispart-owner.Toprange:Greg.WitherHillsMarlrw★★→★★★Ownedsince2002byLion

Nathan.Populargooseberry/limeSAUVBL.Generous,gentlyoakedCHARDandfragrant,softlytexturedPINOTN.Latestvintageslessoaky.Intensesingle-v’ydRarangiSauvBl(racy,long);scented,poisedPINOTGR.Otherbrands:ShepherdsRidge,TwoTracks.

WooingTreeCOtrpw★★Single-v’ydproduceratCromwell.Lemony,creamyCHARD.V.gd,strawberry,spicyrosé.Bold,dark,fruit-packedPINOTN(BeetleJuicePinotNlessnewoak).SandstormRes,low-yieldingvines,oak-agedlonger.

YealandsMarlrpw★★Sweeping,privatelyownedv’yd,oneofNZ’sbiggest,inAWATEREVALLEY.EstaterangeinclSAUVBL,vibrant,herbaceous,pure;RIES,refined,off-dry;v.promising,lemony,spicy,dryGRÜNERVELTLINER.PINOTN,floral,supple;2ndtier:PeterYealands.FullCircle(plasticbottles).

Zephyr,Marlrw★★FamilyestatebytheOpawaRiver.V.successfulRIES,GEWURZ,PINOTN,SAUVBL.

SouthAfrica

Exactly20yearsonfromdemocracyandthereturntotheinternationalcommunity,SouthAfricanwineisinfullferment.Growersaregettingovertheiraffairwithripenessandblockbusterismand,spurredonbyconsumers,beginningtoflirtagainwithfinesseandunderstatement.Minimalismand“lessismore”aregainingcurrency,whichiswhychemicalsareusedmoresparinglyinthevineyard,winemakersareinterveninglessinthecellar,usinglessnewoak,optingforlighterfiltrations,addingless(orsometimesno)sulphur.Naturalwinemaking(seeFrance)isderigueur,whetheryou’reacard-carryingmemberoftheSwartlandIndependentMovementorsimplyaconventionalwine-growerexperimentingwithnative-yeastfermentation.

Organicandbiodynamicfarmingareontherise,alongwithasenseofurgencyaroundissueslikesustainability,conservationandmonoculture.There’sanewrespect(reverence,even)fortradition–

hencethepredilectionforoldvines,oopkuipe(openfermentationvessels),“heritage”vineslikeCinsaultandClairetteBlanche,retrolabeldesignsandwax-sealedbottles.InkaleidoscopeSA,“natural”coexistswithscienceandtechnology;hands-offvinificationcohabitswiththeinterventionistwinemakingrequiredtoproduce,say,mocha-fragrantPinotage,andtime-honouredcorksshareshelfspacewiththeverylatestclosures.Foreverywinemakerrevivingafadedlocalvariety,there’sacolleaguetinkeringwithsomenovelorexoticgrape.Thenext20yearspromisetheirshareofchallenges,notablyaroundsocialjustice.Withluck,though,thefuturewillbenolessboisterous,paradoxical,orfascinating.

Recentvintages2012Anunusuallyhot,dry-land-vine-stressingearlyseasonwas

followedbyagoodtoverygoodvintageforbothredsandwhites;loweralcohollevels.

2011Anothervariableyear;producertrack-recordshouldguidebuying/cellaringdecisions.

2010Mixedbag;later-ripeningvarieties(reds,whites)generallyperformedbest.

2009 SouthAfrica’s350thharvestandoneofitsbest.Stellarwhites,mostreds.

2008Challengingbutcool;ripeyetelegantwines;lower-than-usualalcohol.

2007 Sturdywhitesforkeeping;soft,easyredsforearlierdrinking.Note:Mostdrywhitesarebestdrunkwithintwotothreeyears.

AnthonijRupertWinesWCaperw★→★★★Well-delineatedportfolionamedafterownerJohannRupert’slatebrother.EmphaticredsinflagshipAnthonijRupertrange;terroirexplorationsunderCapeofGoodHopelabel;ItalianateTerradelCapofoodpartners;snappyProteaeverydaywines.

AnwilkaStellr★★→★★★KLEINCONSTANTIA’sredwine-specialistsibling,nowentirelyforeign-owned.ToplabelismodernSHIRAZ/CABSAUVAnwilka(0506070809’).

AshbourneSeeHAMILTONRUSSELL.AtaraxiaWinesWCaperw★★★AcclaimedCHARD,SAUVBL

andSerenityred(unspecifiedvarieties)madebyKevinGrantfromownHEMEL-EN-AARDERidgeandbought-inELGIN/WALKERBAYfruit.GivenGrant’srecordatHAMILTONRUSSELL,muchisexpectedfromfuturePINOTN.

AvondalePaarlrpwsp★★→★★★Family-ownedeco-pioneer,embracingorganics,biodynamicsandsciencetoproduce

increasinglyimpressiveBordeaux-andRhône-stylereds,scentedRosé,VIOGNIERblend,woodedCHENINBLandMCC.

AxeHillC’dorprbrsw★★→★★★NotedPort-styleexponent(CapeVintage,mainlyTOURIGANACIONAL0102’03’0405’06070809)nowalsooffersunfortifiedSHIRAZandPort-grapeblends.

AABadenhorstFamilyWinesCoastr(p)w★★→★★★SWARTLAND-basedcousinsHeinandAdiBadenhorstvinifymainlyMediterraneanvarietiesandCHENINBLunderseriousbutlight-heartedand-texturedAABadenhorstandSecateurslabels.Occasionalvinjaune-styleFunkyWhiteisaptlynamed.

BamboesBayTiny(5ha)maritimeWARDinOLIFANTSRIVERregion.Fryer’sCovefirst(andstillonly)winery,withracySAUVBLandpromisingPINOTN.

BeaumontWinesWlkBr(p)w(br)(sw)★→★★★Historicfamilyestate(completewith200-yr-oldworkingwatermill),

hometoexpressiveCHENINBL,PINOTAGE,varietalandblendedMOURVÈDRE,Bordeaux-blendredAriane.

BellinghamWCaper(p)w★→★★★EnduringDGBbrand;limited-releaseBernardSeries,larger-volumeInsigniaandnewAncientEarthandTheTreeranges.

BeyerskloofWCaper(p)(w)(br)(sp)★→★★★SA’sPINOTAGEchampion,nrSTEL.Nineversionsofthegrapeonoffer,inclsuperlativevarietalDiesel(0607’08’09),variousCAPEBLENDs,sparklingandPort-style.AlsoclassicCABSAUV/MERLOTFieldBlend(00010203’04050708).

BiodynamicAnthroposophicmodeofwine-growingpractisedbysmallbutexpandinggroup,inclElginRidge,Hannay,Iona.SeealsoORGANIC.

BlackEconomicEmpowerment(BEE)Initiativeaimedatincreasingwine-industryownershipandparticipationbypreviouslydisadvantagedgroups.Sincelate1990s,with

pioneersNewBeginningsandFairvalley,black-ownedorpart-black-ownedcellarshaveincreasedsteadily,inclmajorslikeKWV.Otherqualitylabels:HowardBooysen,LandofHope(THEWINERYOFGOODHOPE),SOLMS-DELTA.

BoekenhoutskloofWineryWCaperwsw★★→★★★★ConsistentlyexcellentproducerwithcellarsinFRANSCHHOEK,STELLENBOSCHandSWARTLAND.SpicySYRAH(01’02’0304’0506’070809’10);intense,mineralCABSAUV(01’02’0304’0506’07’08’09’).AlsofineSÉMandMediterranean-styleredTheChocolateBlock;uniquelypackagedorganicSHIRAZPorseleinberg;gd-valuelabelsPorcupineRidge,WolftrapandHelderbergWijnmakerij.

BonCourageEstateRobr(p)w(br)sw(s/sw)sp★→★★★Extensivefamily-grownrangeledbyInkaráreds,stylishBrutMCCinclnewRosé,andaromaticRIESandMUSCATdesserts.

BoplaasFamilyVineyardsWCaperwbr(sp)★→★★★Nel

familyvintnersatCALITZDORP,best-knownforPortstyles,espVintageRes(99’010304’05’06’07’0809’10),CapeTawny.CoolBay(unfortified)rangefromocean-facingblocks.

BoschendalWinesWCaper(p)w(sw)sp★→★★★FamousoldestatenrFRANSCHHOEKshowingnewélanunderDGBownership.Callingcards:SHIRAZ,SAUVBL,Bordeaux/ShirazGrandResandMCC.

BotRiverSeeWALKERBAY.BouchardFinlaysonWCaperw★★→★★★★V.finePINOTN

grower:GalpinPeak(0102’03040507080910),barrelselectionTêtedeCuvée(9901’03’05’070910)andUnfilteredLimitedEdition(07).ImpressiveCHARD,SAUVBLandexoticredblendHannibal.

BreedekloofLargeinlandDISTRICTinBreedeRiverValleyREGION;mainlybulkwine.Notableexceptions:Avondrood,Bergsig,Deetlefs,MtnOaks,DuPreez,Merwida,OpstalandSilkbush;

DuToitskloofWinerygd-value.BuitenverwachtingWCaper(p)wsw(sp)★★→★★★Classy

familyv’yds,cellarandrestaurant;standoutSAUVBL,CABFR,restrainedBordeaux-blendredChristine(0001’020304060708),aromaticMUSCATdessert“1769”.

CalitzdorpDISTRICTinKLEINKAROOREGION,climaticallysimilartotheDouroandknownforPortstyles.Bestproducers:AXEHILL,BOPLAAS,DEKRANS,PeterBayly,QuintadoSul.NewunfortifiedPort-grape“CalitzdorpBlends”showpromise.

CapeAgulhasSeeELIM.

Cape’sancientsoilsshowc.40soilforms(vsonly10+ineg.SouthAmerica).

CapeBlendUsuallyredblend,proportionofPINOTAGE.TopexponentsinclBEAUMONT,BEYERSKLOOF,GRAHAMBECK,

GRANGEHURST,KAAPZICHT,MEINERT,SPIERandWARWICK.CapeChamonixWineFarmFranrw(sp)★★→★★★★

Recentvintagesconfirmexcellenceofthesewinemaker-runmtnv’yds.Individualandv.gdPINOTN,PINOTAGE,CHARD,SAUVBLandnewBordeaux-styleResWhite.

CapePointTiny(32ha)maritimedistrictonsoutherntipofCapePeninsula.Mainlywhitegrapes.SolewineryCAPEPOINTV’YDSconsistentstarperformer.

CapePointVineyardsWCape(r)w★→★★★★Exciting,consistentproducerofcomplex,age-worthySAUVBL/SÉMblends,racyCHARD,thrillingSAUVBL;gd-valueSplatteredToadlabelhelpssaveendangeredamphibians.KeepaneyeopenforredandwhiteincellarmasterDuncanSavage’seponymousownbrand.

CapeSouthCoastAppellationinWOsystem,combiningDISTRICTsofCapeAgulhas,ELGIN,Overberg,PlettenbergBay,

Swellendam,WALKERBAY,plusstand-aloneWARDSHerbertsdale,Napier,StilbaaiEastintocool-climate“umbrella”REGION.

CapeWinemakersGuild(CWG)Independent,invitation-onlyassociationof45topgrowers.Stagesbenchmarkingannualauctionoflimitedpremiumbottlingsand,viaatrust,providesdevelopmentaid,educationbursariesandmentorship.

CederbergHigh-altitudestand-aloneWARDinremoteCederbergMts.Scant70ha,mainlywhitevarieties.RelativenewcomerDriehoekandestablishedstarCEDERBERGPRIVATECELLARaresoleproducers.

CederbergPrivateCellarCedrw(p)(sp)★★→★★★Combinescool-climatemineralitywithintenseflavourinSHIRAZ,CABSAUV,SAUVBL,SÉM,CHENINBLandrarevarietyBukettraubeundertop-tierFiveGenerations,ELIM-sourcedGhostCornerandCederberglabels.

CentralOrangeRiverStand-aloneinland“megaWARD”(11,400ha)inNorthernCapeGEOGRAPHICALUNIT.Hot,dry,dependentonirrigation;mainlywhitewinesandfortified.MajorproducerisOrangeRiverWineCellars.

CoastalLarge(31,000ha)REGION,inclsea-influencedDISTRICTsofCAPEPOINT,DARLING,Tygerberg,STELLENBOSCH,SWARTLAND,andstand-alonemaritimewardsCONSTANTIAandHoutBay,butalsoinlandFRANSCHHOEKVALLEY,PAARL,TULBAGHandWELLINGTON.

ColmantCapClassique&ChampagneWCapesp★★★ExcitingFRANSCHHOEKméthodetraditionnellesparklingspecialist.Currentlyatrioofwell-pricedMCC:Res,Rosé(PINOTN/CHARD)andChard;allbrut,NVandexcellent.

CompanyofWinePeople,TheWCaper(p)w(sw)(sp)★→★★★2.6-million-cases-a-yrwinerynrSTELLENBOSCHwithtopbrandsKumkani,nowaBEEjointventurewith

winemaker/entrepreneurAllisonAdams-Witbooi,andresurrectedCredo;alsoArnistonBay,VersusandWelmoedeasy-drinkers.

ConstantiaCool,scenicWARDonConstantiaberg;SA’soriginalfinewine-growingarea,revitalizedinrecentyrsbyGROOT,KLEINCONSTANTIA,BeauConstantia,BUITENVERWACHTING,ConstantiaGlen,CONSTANTIAUITSIG,Eagles’Nest,STEENBERG.

ConstantiaUitsigConstrwbrsp★★★Premiumv’ydsandtouristdestination.MainlywhitewinesandMCC,allcarefullycrafted.DeliciousandunusualfortifiedredMUSCATd’Alexandriedessert.

CreationWinesWlkBrw★★→★★★Elegantmodernityinfamily-owned/-vinifiedrange,showcasingBordeaux,RhôneandBurgundyvarietalsandblends.Kaleidoscopiccellar-doorofferingworththedetour.

DallaCiaWine&SpiritCompanyStellrw★★→★★★

FamilypatriarchGiorgioDallaCiavinifiesaCABSAUV,BordeauxredGiorgio,lightlyoakedCHARD,SAUVBLandrecentPINOTN;advisesselectclients,ie.ambitiousSTELLENBOSCHstart-up4GWines.

DaniedeWetSeeDEWETSHOF.DarlingDISTRICT(2,800ha)aroundeponymouswestcoasttown.

Bestv’ydsinhillyGroenekloofWARD.Cloof,DarlingCellars,GrootePost,OrmondeandLannerHillbottleunderownlabels;mostotherfruitgoesintothird-partybrands.

DeGrendelWinesWCaper(p)w(sw)(sp)★→★★★HillsidepropertyoverlookingTableBay,ownedbySirDavidGraaff.SHIRAZ,KoetshuisSAUVBL,VIOGNIERandPINOTSNandGRarestandouts.

DeKransC’dorpr(p)wbr(sw)★→★★★Familyv’ydsnotedforPort-styles(espVintageRes010203’04’05’06’0708’09’10’),fortifiedMUSCATs,andvarietalbottlingsofrarer

grapes.Amongfirsttomarketa“CALITZDORPBlend”(unfortifiedTOURIGANACIONAL/TEMPRANILLO/TintaBarroca).

DelaireGraffEstateWCaper(p)w(br)(sw)★★→★★★InternationaldiamantaireLaurenceGraff’seyriev’yds,wineryandopulenttouristdestination.JewelinthecrownisnewCABSAUV-basedbarrelselection,LaurenceGraffRes.

DelheimWinesStellr(p)wsws/sw★★→★★★Eco-mindedfamilywineryinprimeSimonsbergfoothills.AcclaimedVeraCruzSHIRAZ;cellar-worthyCABSAUVGrandRes(00010304’050607’08).

DeTorenPrivateCellarStellr★★★ConsistentBordeauxredFusionV(0203’0405’06’070809’10);earlier-maturingMERLOT-based“Z”,bothfive-wayblends.

DeTraffordWinesStellrpwsw★★→★★★★Consistentboutiquegrowerwithinternationalreputationforboldbutelegantwines.BrilliantBordeaux/SHIRAZblendElevation393

(0103’040506070809),CABSAUV(0103’04050607080910),SHIRAZandoak-agedStrawWinefromCHENINBL.CharacterfulSijnn(pronounced“sane”)blends(rw)andRoséfrommaritimeMalgasWARD.

DeWetshofEstateRobr(p)w(br)sw(sp)★→★★★FamedCHARDpioneerandexponent;sevenversions,oakedandunwooded,underDeWetshofandDaniedeWetbranding.NewThibaultBordeauxredhonoursnotedCapeColonyarchitectuponwhosedesignestate’selegantcellar-doorisbased.

DGBWCapeWell-establishedWELLINGTON-basedproducer/wholesaler,withbrandslikeBELLINGHAM,BOSCHENDAL,BramptonandDouglasGreen.

DiemersdalEstateWCaper(p)w★→★★★Familyfarmwithenterprisingyoungergenerationfocusingonredblends,PINOTAGE,CHARDandSAUVBL.Burgeoninginternet-inspiredbrandSauvignon.com;west-coastjoint-ventureSirLambert.

DiemersfonteinWinesWellrw★★→★★★Familywineestateandguestlodge,espnotedforfull-throttleMALBEC,CHENINBL,VIOGNIERinCarpeDiemrange.Espresso-tonedDiemersfonteinPINOTAGEspawnedmuch-emulatedand-embroideredupon“coffeestyle”.BEEbrandisThokozani.

DistellWCapeSA’sbiggestdrinkscompany,headquarteredinSTELLENBOSCH.Ownsmanybrands,spanningstylesandqualityscales.AlsohasinterestsinvarioustopStellenboschwineriesviaLusanPremiumWines,inBEElabelTukulu,andinLomondEstateincool-climateCAPEAGULHAS.

DistrictSeeGEOGRAPHICALUNIT.DurbanvilleCool,hillyWARD(1,500ha)nrCapeTown,knownfor

pungentSAUVBLandMERLOT.Corporateco-ownedDURBANVILLEHILLSandmanyfamilyfarms.Alsothrivinggaragistewineries,inclanaesthetist-ownedMaisondeTeijger.

DurbanvilleHillsDurr(p)w(sw)★→★★★Maritime-cooled

v’yds,restaurantandupgradedcellar-doorownedbyDISTELL,localgrowersandworkers’trust.BestareSingleV’ydandRhinofieldsResranges.

EdgebastonWCaperw★★→★★★Finlaysonfamily(GLENCARLOUfame).V.gdGSCABSAUV(05‘06070810),newPINOTN,SHIRAZ,CHARD;classyearly-drinkingwinesinclnewBerryBoxWhite.

ElginCool-climateuplandandfast-developingOverbergDISTRICT;increasinglyrecognizedforSAUVBL,CHARD,PINOTN,MERLOTandBordeauxblends.Mainlyfamily-ownedboutiquecellars,inclAlmenkerk,ORGANICElginRidge,HighlandsRoad,Iona,OakValley,newcomerOneiric,PAULCLUVERandSHANNON.

ElimSea-breezyWARD(143ha)insouthernmostDISTRICT,CapeAgulhas,andhometoTheBerrio,BlackOystercatcher,Land’sEndandStrandveld,producingsvelteSAUVBL,whiteblendsandSHIRAZ.AlsograpesourceformajorsinclFLAGSTONE.

ErnieElsWinesStellr(w)★★→★★★★SA’sstargolfer’swineventure,drivenbybig-ticketBordeauxredErnieElsSignature(0102’0304’050607’0809’).Els’famouslyeffortlessswinggivesnametoBigEasyRedandWhite.

EstateWineOfficialtermforwinegrown,madeandbottledon“unitsregisteredfortheproductionofestatewine”.Notaqualitydesignation.

Fablerw★★★→★★★★BIODYNAMICTULBAGHgrowerandsiblingofMULDERBOSCH,ownedbyCalifornia’sTerroirCapital.ExceptionalSHIRAZ(varietalandblend)andtexturedwhiteblendJackalBird.

StardomatlastforCinderellagrape?CHENINBLhistoricallyhasbeenSA’sCinderellagrape,overshadowedbythemorepopularSAUVBLandCHARD.Buta

makeoverbegunmorethan20yearsagobyCheninBlchampionslikeIrinavonHoldt,creatorofthepioneeringold-vinesBlueWhiteCheninBl;MichaelFridjhon,initiatoroftheCheninBlChallenge,andanexpandinggroupofpassionategrowers,endowedwithmanysitesandsomewell-agedblocks,atlastseemstoberaisingthequalityandstatureofSA’smost-plantedvarietytothepointwhere,somebelieve,itcouldbecomethecountry’ssignaturegrape.Doubtlessproponentswillbehopingthatastringofrecentinternationalcompetitionsuccesses,favourablereviews,andhigh-profiledevelopmentssuchasalocalCheninBl’sinclusionamongtheLondonOlympics’“official”wines,willhastenthetransformationoftheperennialunderstudyintothenationalstar.

FairtradeTheinternationalFairtradenetwork’ssustainabledevelopmentandempowermentobjectivesareembracedbya

growinglistofSAproducers,inclbigplayerssuchasDuToitskloof,GroupeCDVandRiebeekCellars.

FairviewWCaper(p)w(br)(sw)(s/sw)★→★★★★DynamicandinnovativeownerCharlesBackwithsmorgasbordofsensiblypricedblended,varietal,single-v’ydandterroir-specificbottlings,inclFairview,SpiceRoute,GoatsdoRoam,LaCapraandLeeuwenjacht.Also,viashareholding/partnership,SixHats(FAIRTRADE),Junoand,recently,Land’sEnd.

FirstCapeVineyardsWCaper(p)wspDYABiggest-sellingSAwinebrandinUK.Jointventureoffivelocalco-opsandUK’sBrandPhoenix,withentry-levelwinesinmanyranges,somesourcedoutsideSA.Low-alcoholsegmentisakeyfocus.

FlagstoneWineryWCaperw(br)★→★★★MedalledwineryatSomersetWest,ownedbyAustralia’sCHAMPPrivateEquity.Idiosyncraticallynamedlabels(eg.Writer’sBlockPINOTAGE)intop-endFlagstoneandearlier-readyPoetry,Rustler

andWhisperingJackranges.FleurduCapWCaperwsw★★→★★★DISTELLpremium

label;inclv.gdUnfilteredCollectionandalways-stellarbotrytisNobleLateHarvestinBergkelderSelection.

FranschhoekValleyFrenchHuguenot-foundedDISTRICTinCOASTALREGION.1,200ha,mainlyCABSAUV,CHARD,SAUVBL,SHIRAZ.Manywineries(andrestaurants):ANTHONIJRUPERT,AlléeBleue,BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF,BOSCHENDAL,COLMANT,CAPECHAMONIX,GlenWood,GrandeProvence,LAMOTTE,Lynx,Môreson,SOLMS-DELTA,Topiary.

GeographicalUnit(GU)LargestoffourmainWINEOFORIGINdemarcations.CurrentlyfiveGUs:Eastern,NorthernandWesternCape,KwaZulu-Natal,Limpopo.TheotherWOdelineations(indescendingsize):REGION,DISTRICTandWARD.

GlenCarlouWCaperw(sw)(sp)★★→★★★DonaldHess-owned;first-ratev’yds;fine-artgallery,restaurantnrPAARL.

SpicySYRAH,fineBordeauxredGrandClassique.GlenellyEstateStellrw★★→★★★FormerChâteauPichon-

Lalande(seeBordeaux)ownerMay-ElianedeLencquesaing’sv’ydsandstate-of-the-artcellar.ImpressiveflagshipsLadyMay(mainlyCABSAUV)andGrandVindeGlenellyduo(Bordeaux/SHIRAZandCHARD);readier-on-releaseGlassCollection.

GrahamBeckWinesWCaper(p)wsp(sw)★★→★★★Front-rankerwith30+labels,inclclassybubbles,varietalandblendedreds/whites,toppedbysuperbCuvéeCliveMCC,AdHonoremCABSAUV/SHIRAZandPheasants’RunSAUVBL.

GrangehurstStellrp★★→★★★Small,top-notchredandroséspecialist.V.gdCAPEBLENDNikela(989900010203’05),PINOTAGE(979899010203’05).

GrootConstantiaEstateConstr(p)w(br)sw(sp)★★→★★★WinesbefittingtourismhotspotinCape’soriginalfine-wine-

growingarea.PINOTAGE,CHARD,ResSÉM/SAUV.GrandConstanceupholdsConstantiatraditionofworld-classMUSCATdesserts.

GuardianPeakSeeRUSTENVREDEESTATE.HamiltonRussellVineyardsWlkBrw★★★→★★★★

Burgundian-stylespecialistatHermanus.FinePINOTN(01’03’040506070809’10);exceptionalCHARD.SuperSAUVBL,PINOTAGE,whiteblendsunderSouthernRight,Ashbournelabels.

HartenbergEstateStellrw★★→★★★★Consistenttopperformer.QuartetofoutstandingSHIRAZ:extrovertsingle-siteTheStork(0304’05’06070809’),savouryGravelHill,alwaysseriousShiraz(01020304’0506070809),newentry-levelDoorkeeper;alsofineMERLOT,CHARD,RIES.

HaskellVineyardsStellrw★★★American-ownedv’ydsandcellarreceivingravenoticesforpairofSYRAHs(PillarsandAeon),redblendsandCHARD.Ever-improvingsiblingbrand

Dombeya.Hemel-en-AardeTrioofcool-climateWARDs(Hemel-en-Aarde

Valley,UpperHemel-en-AardeValley,Hemel-en-AardeRidge)inWALKERBAYDISTRICT,producingoutstandingPINOTN,CHARDandSAUVBL.ATARAXIA,BOUCHARDFINLAYSON,CREATION,HAMILTONRUSSELLandNEWTONJOHNSONaretopnames.

HermanuspietersfonteinWynkelderWCaper(p)w★★→★★★LeadingSAUVBLandBordeauxredblendspecialist;creativelymarketsphysicalandhistoricalconnectionswithseasideresortHermanus.

JCleRoux,TheHouseofWCapesp★★SA’slargestspecialistsparklingwinehouse,DISTELLowned.Best:PINOTN,Scintilla(CHARD/PinotN),BrutNV,allMCC.

JeanDaneelWinesWCaperw(br)(sp)★→★★★FamilywineryatNapier;outstandingSignatureSeries,espRed(CABSAUV/MERLOT/SHIRAZ),CheninBl,rareMCCsparklingfrom

CheninBl.JordanWineEstateStellr(p)wsw★★→★★★★

Consistency,quality,valuefromentry-levelBradgate,ChameleonlinestoimmaculateCWGAuctionbottlings.FlagshipNineYardsCHARD;BordeauxblendCobblersHill(00010304’05’06070809);CABSAUV;MERLOT;SAUVBL(oakedandunwooded);RIESbotrytisdessertMellifera.

KaapzichtWineEstateStellr(p)w(br)(sw)★→★★★Familywinerywithinternationallyacclaimedtop-rangeSteytler:VisionCAPEBLEND(01’02’03’0405’0607),PINOTAGEandBordeauxredblendPentagon.

KanonkopEstateStellr(p)★★→★★★★Grandlocalstatusforthreedecades,mainlywithPINOTAGE(010203’040506070809’10’),BordeauxblendPaulSauer(01020304’0506’070809)andCABSAUV.SecondtierisKadette(redandPinotageDryRosé).

KenForresterWinesWCaper(p)wsw(s/sw)★★→★★★STELLENBOSCH-basedvintner/restaurateurKenForresterandgrowerMartinMEINERTcollaboration.ThreebenchmarkCHENINBL:racy,dryRes;opulentoff-dryTheFMC(occasionalSélectionMoelleux);sumptuousbotrytis“T”.Devilishlydrinkablebudget,Petit.

KleinConstantiaEstateWCaper(p)wsw(sp)★★→★★★Meticulouslyrestoredproperty,nowforeignowned.Luscious(non-botrytis)VindeConstance(00’0102’040506’07’)convincingre-creationoflegendary18th-centuryConstantiaMUSCATdessert.AlsoelegantMarlbrookblends,cellarableRIES,classySAUVBLandearlier-readyKCrange.SiblingpropertyisANWILKAinSTELLENBOSCH.

KleineZalzeWinesWCaper(p)w★★→★★★STELLENBOSCH-basedstarwithbrilliantCABSAUV,SHIRAZ,CHENINBLandSAUVBLinFamilyResandV’ydSelectionranges;tastyand

affordableCellarSelection,FootofAfricaandZalzeline-ups.KleinKarooSemi-aridREGION(2,500ha)knownforfortified,esp

Port-styleinCALITZDORPDISTRICT.Higher-lyingTradouw,TradouwHighlands,OuteniquaandUpperLangkloofWARDsshowpromisewithPINOTN,SHIRAZandSAUVBL.

Krone,TheHouseofWCapesp★★★ElegantBrutMCC,inclBorealis,RoséandNVprestigecuvéeNicolasCharlesKrone,fromPINOTN/CHARD,madeatTweeJongeGezellenEstateinTULBAGH.

KumalaWCaper(p)w(s/sw)DYAHugelysuccessfulexportlabelandsiblingbrandtopremiumFLAGSTONEandentry-levelFishHoek,allownedviaAccoladeWinesbySydney-basedCHAMPPrivateEquity.

KwaZulu-NatalProvinceanddemarcatedGEOGRAPHICALUNIToneastcoast;summerrainfall;sub-tropicalortropicalclimateincoastalareas;cooler,hillycentralMidlandsplateauhometo

nascentfine-wineindustryledbyAbingdonEstate.KWVWCaper(p)w(br)(s/sw)(sw)sp★→★★★Formerlythe

nationalwineco-opandcontrollingbody,todayapartlyblack-ownedlistedgroupbasedinPAARL.80+reds,whites,sparkling,Portstyles,fortifieddessertsin11ranges.Best:Mentors,CathedralCellar,KWVResandLaborie;PearlyBayquaffers,CaféCulture“coffee”PINOTAGE(stillandfizzy)andBerRazsweetSHIRAZtargetpoppalate.

LambertsBayWestcoastWARD(22ha)closebyAtlantic.TrenchantSAUVBL,promisingSHIRAZbySirLambert,localjointventurewithDIEMERSDAL.

LammershoekWinerySwar(p)w(sw)★★→★★★Traditionallyvinified,deep-flavouredRhône-styleblendsandCHENINBLthatepitomizeSWARTLANDgenerosityandconcentration.Younger-vinesLAMquartetoverdelivers.

LaMotteWCaperw(sp)★★→★★★IncreasinglyORGANIC

venturebytheRupertfamily,basedatFRANSCHHOEK.Fine,distinctiveSHIRAZ/VIOGNIER,SAUVBLandShiraz/GRENACHEinflagshipPierneefCollection;improvingMCC.

LanzeracStellr(p)w★★→★★★Venerableproperty(inclluxuryhotel)longassociatedwithPINOTAGE(1stvintage1959),undernewownership.V.fineLeGénéralCAPEBLENDandnewMrsEnglishCHARD.

L’AvenirVineyardsWCaper(p)w(sp)★→★★★AdVini-ownedpropertynrSTELLENBOSCH,vinifyingmainlySAstalwartsPINOTAGEandCHENINBLwithGallicpanache,espinflagshipIconrange.

LeRicheWinesStellr(w)★★★FineCABSAUV-basedboutiquewines,hand-craftedbyrespectedEtienneleRicheandfamily.Alsov.gdCHARD.

MCCSeeMÉTHODECAPCLASSIQUE.MeerlustEstateStellrw★★★★Prestigiousfamily-ownedv’yds

andcellar.EleganceandrestraintinflagshipRubicon(990001’03’04050607’08),oneofSA’sfirstBordeauxblends;alsoexcellentMERLOT,CABSAUV,CHARDandPINOTN.Cellar-masterChrisWilliams’Rhône-orientatedownlabelTheFoundryalsotop-rated.

MeinertWinesCoastr(p)w★★→★★★Thoughtfulproducer/consultantMartinMeinertnotedforfineBordeaux/PINOTAGEblendSynchronicity.Recentlymoreemphasisonwhite(SAUVBLandCHARD)andpink.

MéthodeCapClassique(MCC)EU-friendlynameforbottle-fermentedsparkling,oneofSA’smajorsuccessstories.200labelsandcounting.Ambeloui,BONCOURAGE,BOSCHENDAL,Cabrière,COLMANT,CONSTANTIAUITSIG,GrahamBeck,JCLEROUX,KRONE,SIMONSIG,Steenberg,VILLIERA;newcomersChabivin,GenevieveandTheHouseofGM&Ahrens.

MorgenhofWineEstateStellr(p)w(br)(sw)(sp)★→★★★

1692propertyrevitalizedbyAnneCointreau(ofCognac/liqueurfamily).BordeauxredblendTheMorgenhofEstateandCHENINBL.GdeverydayFantailrange.

MorgensterEstateStellrpw★★→★★★PrimeItalian-ownedwineandolivefarmnrSomersetWest,advisedbyBordelaisPierreLurton(ChevalBlanc).ClassicMorgenster(0001030405’06’080910);secondlabelLourensRiverValley.SANGIOVESE,NEBBIOLOblendsinItalianCollection;newerBordeauxwhiteblend.

MulderboschVineyardsWCaperpw(sw)★★→★★★STELLENBOSCHwineryownedbyCaliforniainvestmentgroupTerroirCapital.Individualisticofferings,inclSAUVBL,dryandbotrytis;wood-fermentedCHARD;high-pricedCHENINBLSmallChange;juicyCABSAUVRoséatop-seller.

MullineuxFamilyWinesSwarwsw★★★→★★★★Starhusband-and-wifeteamChrisandAndreaMullineux,

specializinginsmart,generous,carefullymadeSYRAH,Rhône-styleblends(rw),CHENINBL.Adventurousvinifications(eg.vinjaune-styleROUSSANNE)underTheThreeFoxeslabelwithbrothersPascalandOlivierSchildt.

MvemveRaatsStellr★★★MzokhonaMvemve,SA’s1stuniversity-qualifiedblackwinemaker,andBruwerRAATSvinifyacclaimedBordeauxredMRDeCompostella.

NederburgWinesWCaper(p)wsws/sw(sp)★→★★★★AmongSA’sbiggest(1.4millioncases)andbest-knownbrands,DISTELL-owned.ExceptionalIngenuityRed(050607’0809)andWhite;excellentManorHouselabelandnewHeritageHeroesquartet,honouringkeyfiguresfromwinery’spast.Alsolow-pricedquaffers,stillandsparkling.Small,sometimesstellarPrivateBinsforannualNederburgAuction,inclCHENINBLbotrytisEdelkeur(0203’04’050607’0809’10’11).

NeilEllisWinesWCaperw★★→★★★★Veteran

cellarmasterNeilEllisandviticulturist/winemakersonWarrensourcecooler-climateparcelsforsiteexpression.TopV’ydSelectionCABSAUV(9900’010304’05060709),SYRAH,SAUVBL,PINOTAGE;sensationalold-vineGRENACHENoirfromPiekenierskloofWARD.

NewtonJohnsonVineyardsr(p)w★★→★★★CellarandrestaurantinscenicUpperHEMEL-EN-AARDEValley.OutstandingPINOTN,CHARD,SAUVBLandRhônereds,fromownandpartnerv’yds;lovelybotrytisCHENINBL,L’illa,exROBERTSON;widelysourcedentry-levelbrandFelicité.

OlifantsRiverWestcoastREGION.Warmvalleyfloors,conducivetoORGANICcultivation,andcooler,fine-wine-favouringsitesinthemtnWARDofPiekenierskloof,and,nrtheAtlantic,BAMBOESBAYandKoekenaap.

OrganicExpandingcategorywithvariablequality;producerswithtrackrecordsinclAVONDALE,BonCap,FABLE,GrootParys,

Laibach,Lazanou,MtnOaks,REYNEKE,Stellar,Tukulu,UplandandWaverleyHills.SeealsoBIODYNAMIC.

OuteniquaSeeKLEINKAROO.PaarlTownanddemarcatedwineDISTRICT50km+northeastof

CapeTown.9,500ha;WELLINGTON,previouslyasub-appellation,nowaseparateDISTRICT.Diversestylesandapproaches;bestresultswithMediterraneanvarieties(rw),CABSAUV,PINOTAGE.NewerentrantsBabylonstoren,DoranandEenzaamheidworthataste.

PaulCluverEstateWinesElgrws/swsw★★★→★★★★Elgin’sstandardbearer,Cluver-family-owned;convincingPINOTN,elegantCHARD,gorgeousGewurz,andknockoutRIES(botrytis03’0405’06’0708’091011’,andtwodrierversions).

QuoinRockWineryrw(sp)(sw)★★→★★★NowUkranian-owned,withestablishedv’ydsnrSTELandELIM.ClassicallystyledSYRAH,MERLOT,whiteflagshipOculus,distinctiveSAUV

BLTheNicobarandSYRAHblendTheCentaur.RaatsFamilyWinesCoastrw★★→★★★CABFR,twopure-

fruitedCHENINBL(oakedandunwooded)andnewBordeauxblendRedJasper,vinifiedbySTELLENBOSCH-basedBruwerRaats,alsoapartnerinboutique-scaleMVEMVERAATS.

RegionSeeGEOGRAPHICALUNIT.ReynekeWinesCoastrw★★→★★★Leading

ORGANIC/BIODYNAMICproducernrSTELLENBOSCH;luminousResRed(mainlySHIRAZ),CHENINBL,ResWhite(SAUVBL).

Rijk’sCoastrw★★→★★★TULBAGHpioneerwithEstate,Res,PrivateCellarandTouchofOaktiersfocusedonvarietalandblendedSHIRAZ,PINOTAGE,CHENINBL.

RobertsonDistrictLow-rainfallinlandvalley;13,800ha;limesoils;conduciveclimateforORGANICproduction.HistoricallygdCHARD,dessertstyles(notablyMUSCAT);morerecentlySAUVBL,SHIRAZ,CABSAUV.MajorcellarsincludeBONCOURAGE,DE

WETSHOF,GRAHAMBECK,Rietvallei,ROBERTSONWINERY,Rooiberg,SPRINGFIELD,Weltevrede,Zandvliet;alsomanyfamilyboutiques.

RobertsonWineryRobr(p)w(br)sws/sw(sp)★→★★Consistency,gd-valuefromco-op-scalewinery.BestisNo1ConstitutionRdSHIRAZ;alsov.gdV’ydSelection.

RuderaWinesWCaperwsw★→★★★HailedforconsistentlyexcellentCHENINBL(dry/semi-dryandbotrytis),CABSAUV,SYRAH.Nowhascharmingcellar-doorhighonPAARLMtn.SecondlabelsareHalalaandLula.

Rupert&RothschildVigneronsWCaperw★★★Topv’ydsandcellarnrPAARLownedbytheRupertfamilyandBaronBenjamindeRothschild.ImpressiveBordeauxblendBaronEdmond(98000103’040507080910’);CHARDBaronessNadineisadeep-flavouredclassic.

RustenbergWinesWCaperw(sw)★★→★★★★Prestigious

familywinerynrSTEL.FlagshipisCABSAUVPeterBarlow(99’01’030405060708).OutstandingBordeauxredblendJohnXMerriman;savourySYRAH;single-v’ydFiveSoldiersCHARD;surprisinglyseriousnewentry-levelIda’s/Est.1682rangeduo.

RustenVredeEstateStellrw★★→★★★Powerful,showyofferingincludespriceysingle-v’ydSYRAHandlimited-releaseSYRAH/CABSAUV“1694Classification”;CirrusSyrahjointventurewithCalifornia’sSilverOaks;recentSTELLENBOSCHRidgeexplorationsofsitesbeyondHelderberghomefarm;newDonkiesbaaiCHENINBLfromoldPiekenierskloofvines.Alsov.gdGuardianPeakwines.

SadieFamilyWinesSwarw★★★★Organicallygrown,traditionallymadeColumella(SHIRAZ/MOURVÈDRE)(0102’030405’0607’0809’10’)aCapebenchmark;complex,intriguingmultivarietywhitePalladius;groundbreakingOldVinesSeries,celebratingSAwineheritage.Reveredwinemaker

EbenSadiealsogrowstheSequilloRedandWhitewithCapeWineMasterCornelSpies.

SaronsbergCoastr(p)w(sw)(sp)★→★★★Art-adornedTULBAGHshowpiecewithawardedBordeauxreds,Rhône(rw)varietiesandblends,andnewerMCCineponymousandProvenanceranges.

SaxenburgWineFarmStellr(p)w(sp)★★→★★★Swiss-ownedv’yds,wineryandrestaurant.Roundlyoakedreds,SAUVBLandCHARDinhigh-endPrivateCollection;premium-pricedflagshipSHIRAZSelect(00010203’05’06’07’09).CellarmasterNicovanderMerwe’seponymousownwinesalsov.fine.

SecateursSeeAABADENHORSTFAMILY.SequilloSeeSADIEFAMILY.ShannonVineyardsElgrw(sw)★★★ExemplaryMERLOT,

PINOTN,SAUVBLandrarebotrytisPinotN,growninELGINby

brothersJamesandStuartDownes,andvinifiedatNEWTONJOHNSON.

SimonsigLandgoedWCaperw(br)(sw)(s/sw)sp★→★★★MalanfamilyestatenrSTELLENBOSCHadmiredforconsistency,valueandloftystandardsthroughoutextensiverange.MerindolSYRAH(0102’03040506070810’),RedHillPINOTAGE(010203’04050607’0809).First(43yrsago)withbottle-fermentedbubbly(KaapseVonkel)andstillaleader.

Solms-DeltaWCaper(p)w(br)(sp)★→★★★DelightfullydifferentwinesfromhistoricFRANSCHHOEKestate,partlystaff-owned;Amarone-styleSHIRAZAfricana,elegantdryroséLekkerwijn,muskywhiteblendKoloni,pétillantCapeJazzShiraz.

SouthernRightSeeHAMILTONRUSSELL.

SA’shighestvineyardisatSutherland,NorthernCape,1,700

metresabovesealevel.

SpiceRouteWineryWCaperw★★→★★★CharlesBack(FAIRVIEW)-ownedpioneerofSWARTLANDDISTRICT;Rhône-stylereds,espMalabarandChakalakablends;alsoperfumedVIOGNIER.Non-Rhôneofferingsincludev.gdCHENINBLandPINOTAGE.

SpierWCaperw(sp)★→★★★Serious,multi-awardedplayer(onemillion+cases/annum)headquarterednrSTELLENBOSCH.FlagshipisbroodingCAPEBLENDFransKSmit(0405’06’07);SpierandSavanhabrands,eachwithtiersofquality,showmeticulouswine-growing.RemarkableCreativeBlockseries.

SpringfieldEstateRobrw★★→★★★CultwinemakerAbrieBruwertraditionallyvinifiespairsofCABSAUV(MéthodeAncienneandWholeBerry),CHARD(MéthodeAncienneandWildYeast)andSAUVBL(SpecialCuvéeandLifefromStone),

alloozingclass,personality.SteenbergVineyardsWCaperwsp★→★★★★Topwinery,

v’ydsandchiccellardoor,knownforarrestingSAUVBL,SAUVBL/SÉMblendsand,increasingly,MCC.FineredsinclrarevarietalNEBBIOLO.

StellenboschUniversitytown,demarcatedwineDISTRICT(13,800ha).Heartofwineindustry:NapaofSA.Manytopestates,espforreds,tuckedintomtnvalleysandfoothills;extensivewine-tasting,accommodationandfine-diningoptions.

SwartlandIncreasinglyacclaimedwarm-climateDISTRICTinCOASTALREGION;11,400haofmainlyshy-bearing,unirrigatedbushvinesproducingconcentrated,heartybutfreshwines.AABADENHORST,LAMMERSHOEK,MULLINEUX,SADIEFAMILY,SPICEROUTE,Porseleinberg;gd-valueRiebeekCellarsandSwartlandWinery.

ThelemaMountainVineyardsWCaperw(s/sw)★→★★★★

PioneerofSA’smodernwinerevival,stilltopofgamewithCabSauv(00’03040506070809),TheMintCABSAUV(0506’07080910)etal.SutherlandrangefromELGINv’ydschartsfreshcourse(eg.PINOTN,VIOGNIER/ROUSSANNE).CellarmasterRudiSchultz’seponymousownbrandalsocriticallyacclaimed.

TokaraWCaper(p)w(sw)★★→★★★★Wine,food,artshowcasenrSTELLENBOSCH.V’ydsalsoinELGIN,WALKERBAY.GorgeousDirector’sRes(rw)blends;pure,elegantCHARD,SAUVBL.WinemakerMilesMossop’sproprietarylabelasgd.

TulbaghInlandDISTRICThistoricallyassociatedwithwhitewineandbubbly,nowalsowithbeefyreds,somesweeterstylesandORGANIC.1,300ha.KRONE,resurgentLemberg,RIJK’S,SARONSBERG,FABLE,WaverleyHills.

TweeJongeGezellenSeeKRONE.VergelegenWinesWCaperw(sp)★★★→★★★★Historic

mansion;immaculatev’ydsandwines,recentyyetmorestylish

cellar-dooratSomersetWest;ownedbyAngloAmerican.PowerfulmainlyCABSAUV“V”(01’0304050607),sumptuousBordeauxRed,mineralSauvBl/SémWhite,newCHARD/PINOTNMCC.

VilafontéPaarlr★★★California’sacclaimedZelmaLong(ex-Simiwinemaker)andPhilFreese(ex-Mondaviviticulturalist)partneringWARWICK’sMikeRatcliffe.TwosuperbBordeauxblends:firmlystructuredSeriesC,fleshierSeriesM.

VillieraWinesStellrw(br)(sw)sp★★→★★★Grierfamilyv’ydsandwinerywithexcellentquality/valuerange.Creamofcrop:BordeauxredMonro;BushVineSAUVBL;TraditionalCHENINBL;sixMCCbubblies(inclno-sulphur-addedBrutNatural).Alsoboutique-scaleDomaineGriernrPerpignan,France.

WalkerBaySmall(900ha),fast-developingandhighlyreputedDISTRICT,withsub-appellationsHEMEL-EN-AARDE,BotRiverand

Sunday’sGlen.PINOTN,SHIRAZ,CHARD,SAUVBLarestandouts.Top:ATARAXIA,BEAUMONT,BOUCHARDFINLAYSON,CREATION,Gabriëlskloof,HAMILTONRUSSELL,HERMANUSPIETERSFONTEIN,NEWTONJOHNSON,Luddite,Raka.

Pinotagegrapesmakegreateating.Baboonsthinkso,too.

WardThesmallestoftheWINEOFORIGINdemarcations.SeeGEOGRAPHICALUNITS.

WarwickEstateWCaperw★★★Tourist-cordialRatcliffefamilyfarmonSTELLENBOSCHfringe.V.fineBordeaux-blendredTrilogy,perfumedCABFR,opulentCHARD(woodedandnewunoaked).

WaterfordEstateWCaper(p)w(sw)★→★★★ClassyfamilywinerynrSTELLENBOSCH,withawardedcellardoor.SavouryKevinArnoldSHIRAZ(0102’03040506070809),mineralCABSAUV(010203’040506070809)andpriceyCabSauv-

basedflagshipTheJem.LibraryCollectionisahighlypotablerecordofexperimentationwithblends.

WaterkloofStellr(p)w★★→★★★BritishwineimporterPaulBoutinot’sv’yds,wineryandcantileveredcellardoornrSomersetWest.BIODYNAMICviticultureandnatural/traditionalvinification.ToptiersareWaterkloofandCircumstance;alsogd-valueFalseBayandPeacockRidgelines.

WellingtonHistoricDISTRICT(4,400ha)abuttingPAARL.Traditionallysourceofgrapesforsomefamous(andnot-so-storied)names,butin-housevinificationisincreasingalongwithlocal/overseasrecognition.Andreas,Bosman,DIEMERSFONTEIN,Doolhof,Jacaranda,LintonPark,MontduToit,Nabygelegen,Napier,ValduCharron,Welbedacht/SchalkBurger.

WineofOrigin(WO)SA’s“AC”butwithoutFrenchcropyield,etc.,restrictions.Certifiesvintage,variety,areaoforigin.Opt-in

sustainabilitycertificationadditionallyguaranteeseco-sensitiveproductionfromgrapetoglass.SeealsoGEOGRAPHICALUNIT.

WineryofGoodHope,TheWCaperw(sw)★★→★★★PolishedSTELLENBOSCHproduceraseclecticasitsAustralian-French-SA-UKownership.Creative,compatibleblendofstyles,influences,varietiesandterroirs(eg.Bordeaux,Burgundy,Rhône,Loire,Stellenbosch,SWARTLAND,sometimesinthesamebottle)ineponymous,RadfordDale,VinumandLandofHopeline-ups.

WorcesterDISTRICT(6,500ha)withmostlyco-opsproducingbulkwine;exceptionsareConradieFamily,Eagle’sCliffandever-improvingAlvi’sDrift.

Vosne-Romanée:acloserfocus

Redburgundyisthewineofthemoment,andPinotNoirthegrape.Howonearthdidithappen?HowdidthegrapethatfordecadeshasbeentheHolyGrailofproducersworldwide,compellingbutelusive,suddenlybecomealmostbiddable?Andhowdidredburgundy,themostcomplicated,fascinatingandinfuriatingofredwines,suddenlybecomethewineeverybodywants?TheanswertothesecondquestionmaylieinthepriceofequivalentBordeauxwines.Theanswertothefirstquestioninvolvesyearsofresearch,experimentationandintuition.ThepreciseconditionsoftheCôted’Or(themixofclayandchalk,complicatedgeology,latitude,temperature)cannotbereplicatedelsewhere.Butother,differentsetsofconditions,equallyprecise(cloudcoverinOregon’sDundeeHills;shockinglybrilliantlightinNewZealand’sCentralOtago)combineindifferentwaystoproducePinotsofpurityandelegance.They’renotcopiesofburgundy,thoughthiswastheirinspiration.

InsteadtheyallowPinottodowhatitdoesbest:transmititsterroirtotheglass.ThisisthefascinationofPinot.Themicro-mosaicofterroirsthatistheCôted’OrmeansthatSylvainCathiard’shauntinglypureVosne-RomanéeMalconsorts,forexample,tastesdifferenttohisVosne-RomanéeEnOrveaux.Addtothatthedifferentviticulturalandwinemakingstylesofumpteenwinemakersandyouhaveathree-dimensionalpuzzlethatmakesburgundythemostcomplicatedofallwinestobuy.Otherregionshavenotsub-dividedtheirterroirstothisextent.ButPinotfromtheSonomaCoastisrecognizablydifferenttoAustralia’sMorningtonPeninsula.NewZealand’sMartinboroughPinotisnotlikeOregon’sWillametteValley’s.Allareevolving,asisburgundy.Andjustasburgundyisbetterthanithaseverbeen,sotheseregionsarelearninghowtheirsoils,sunlight,rain,springmorningsandautumnafternoonscanbereflectedinnuancesoffruit,acidityandminerality.

Overthenextpageswe’llbeexploringjusthowtheseinfluences

affecttheflavourintheglassfromCaliforniatoGermany,from45˚Nto45˚S.ThePinotworld,frombeingtiny,issuddenlyremarkablylarge.

TheCôted’Or

Pinotasitwasinthebeginning

PinotNoirdidn’tmovefarformillennia.ItevolvedorwasbredfromwildvinessomewhereinsoutheastFrance,orintheAlps,maybe2,000yearsago.JustwhenitwasfirstplantedonBurgundy’sCôted’Orwedon’tknow,althoughtheremainsofafirst-centuryvineyardhavebeendiscoveredjustoutsideGevrey-Chambertin.Pinotappearsinthewrittenrecordsfromthe14thcentury.

Thishistorymatters,becauseifwinemakersaregoingtoworkwithacapriciousgrapeonimmenselycomplicatedgeology,ithelpsifthey’vehadtimetopractise.TheSâonefaultlinerunsthelengthofBurgundy,andtherockoftheCôteisfracturedbymany,manysmallerfaults.Thisiswhythesoilinthispartoftheworldchangessoabruptly.Eventhoughthedriftoftopsoilover

thecenturiesmightobscuretheedges,thisgeologyexplainswhyonevineyard(theyusethewordclimat)canbesodifferentfromitsneighbour,whythesoilevenlooksdifferent,andwhythewinestastesodifferent.Therecanevenbedifferenceswithinthesamevineyard.

Thepeoplewhoplantedthevineyards,whethertheywereRomanfarmersorCistercianmonks,paidcloseattentiontowhattheycouldseeandtaste.That’swhythevineyardandappellationboundariesfollowthegeologicalindicationsascloselyastheydo.They’renotperfect–somevineyardsvaryenormously–butwhenyouanalysethegeology,it’sremarkablehowaccuratetheyare.

Sowhatisthesoil?Thinkofamixofclayandlimestone,Jurassicinorigin.Somesoilsareintrinsicallybettersuitedtowhitewines,sometored.Mostsoilsareshallow,andthemid-slopes,wherethesoilisneithertoothinnortoodeepandpronetowaterlogging,andwherethetemperatureisneithertoowindynor

toofrost-prone,arethebestsites.Onthismicro-mosaicofacanvasaresuperimposed

winemakers,whoownnotawholevineyard(that’srareinBurgundy)butpiecesofseveralvineyards,inseveralvillages,perhaps1hahere,30acresthere.DomaineDujacownsvinesin15differentvineyards.TheMontrachetvineyardhas16differentowners.Allthesepeopleworktheirvinesandmaketheirwinesinsubtlydifferentways.Somearemoretalentedthanothers.Someworkharder.Thatshowsinthewineaswell.Fromthepointofviewoftheconfusedconsumer,themostimportantpieceofinformationonaburgundywinelabelisstillthenameofthevigneron.SeealsoThehandofthevigneron.

Yetthisistheplacewhereterroiriscrucial;wherevigneronssaytheydon’twanttheirredwinetotasteofPinotNoir,butoftheterroir.Theywantthegrapetobemerelytheconduitfortheflavour,thecharacterofthevineyard.Andthereinliesthefascinationofburgundy.It’ssoeasytomessupPinotNoir:to

makeitoaky,dense,opaqueinflavour,jammy,simple.Greatburgundyisn’tlikethis.It’sdelicatebutconcentrated,silkyoftexture,perfumed,redolentofblackorredcherriesaccordingtotheripenessoftheyear;inyouthitmighthavenotesofincenseorflowersand,withage,undergrowthandmushrooms.Ithasgoodacidity.Andrunningthroughitithas(orcanhave)minerality–somethingthatisdifficulttodefine,andsomethingthatcanbearguedoverforhours,orpages.Tolookforsomethingonthepalatethatisneitherfruitnoracidity,notgreenness,either,butisatasteofstones,abitlikethesmellofwetrock,maysoundfanciful.Butlikegreatburgundyitself,whenyoucomeacrossit,you’llknow.

AtitsfinestPinotNoirisaconduitforterroir

Theclimatequestion

Howcoolcanyouget?

AnyonewantingtomakePinotNoirinanypartoftheworldstartsbylookingattheCôted’Or,andsays,“Iwantwhatthey’vegot.”Andofcoursethat’snotpossible.Thatparticularmixofgeologyandclimatecannotbereplicated.ButthefirstthingonenoticesaboutPinotisthatthewarmertheclimate,thejammierandmorealcoholicthewine,andthefurtherawayfromBurgundiancomplexityandminerality.

TheproblemencounteredbymostNewWorldPinotphilesisfindingaclimatecoolenough,andthehistoryofNewWorldPinotphiliaisasearchforextremes.IntheUSAthoseextremesseemtobeinOregonandonCalifornia’sSonomaCoast;inNewZealand,inCentralOtago,MarlboroughandMartinborough;inChile,inLeyda,ElquiandLimarí;inAustralia,theMornington

Peninsula;andinSouthAfrica,WalkerBay.InEurope,Germanyseemstohavetherightready-madeconditions–theirweather,saythegrowers,comesfromBurgundy,justadayortwolater.

InCalifornia,NapaistoohotforPinot–unlessyoulikeitboiled.AndRussianRiver,andevenCarneros,althoughit’ssoothedbythefogthatdriftsineveryafternoonthroughthegapinthecoastalhills,canseemwarmforPinot–certainlywarmerthantheSonomaCoast(tryFlowers),wheretheclimateisaboutasclosetomarginalasanyCalifornianispreparedtogo.IfCalifornianswanttogofurtherthanthattheygotoOregon,whereeveryotherwinemakerseemstobearefugeefromCalifornia–thoughnotalwaysforreasonsofclimate.Theallegedcropsometimesknowneuphemisticallyas“Oregongroundcover”(marijuana)wassometimesallegedlyagreaterattraction.

Butthere’sanotherfactoratworkhereaswell.Climateisnotjustabouttemperature;lightintensityplaysanenormouspart.

Thesouthernhemispheregenerallyhasmoreintenselightthanthenorthern.NewZealand’svineyards,bangundertheholeintheozonelayer,haveincrediblelightintensity.ItsPinots,likethoseofFeltonRoad,forexample,alwayshaverelativelyhighalcohol:14–14.5%+.InOregon,withmorecloudcoverandafarmoresoberleveloflight,alcoholhoversaroundthe12.5–13%mark.CentralOtago’sPinotsarebold,evenshowy;Oregon’saremoresubtle,moreEuropean.

FeltonRoad,CentralOtago.

Iflightnessiswhatyouseek,don’tforgetAlsace.Pinotis

havingarevivalhere,withripe,pure,complexwines(anyoneraisedonCaliforniaPinotmightfindthemangular,justasthoseraisedonburgundymightfindCaliforniaPinot“solid”.)Alcoholis12.5–13.5%;lookforAudreyetChristianBinner,DomaineWeinbach,Pfister,MarcelDeiss.

Can’thotter,brighterspotsjustpickearlier,beforesugarlevelsrise?No,theycan’t.Tanninsmustberipe:green,drytanninsarenotpretty.Ideallytanninripenessandsugarripenessarrivetogether,butsugarripenesscomeswithheat,tanninripenesswithtime.Getsugarripenessearly,becauseyouhavehotsummers,andyou’reliabletogetwhackingsugarlevelswhileyouwaitfortanninripeness.ButevencoolclimateslikeGermany’sAhr(tryMayer-NäkelorJeanStodden)candeliver14%,albeitwithperfectbalance.Ifyouregularlygetsugarripenesswaybeforetanninripeness,theneitheryourviticultureiswrong,oryoushouldn’tbegrowingPinot.

Youcanbetoocool,though.Champagneistoocool,though

itmakes(obviously)superbwhiteandroséfizzfromPinot.StillredwinefromChampagne,calledCoteauxChampenois,isararityforaverygoodreason.IntheNewWorldthereareveryfewwinemakingareasthathavebeenfoundtobetoocooltomakeredPinot:partsofTasmania,probably.BothAustraliaandSouthAfricawouldhavetoextendquiteawayfurthersouthtobetoocool.Intheformer,tryKooyongfromMorningtonPeninsula,ColdstreamHillsfromtheYarraforplacesthatseemtobejustcoolenough.

Sonoma’sRussianRiverValley

Thedirtquestion

Whatdifferencedoessoilmake?

SchlossStaufenberg,Baden,Germany

Again,westartwithBurgundy,becausethat’sthestartingpointforPinotNoir.Clayandlimestone:thesoilmixfamiliartosomanyvineyardsinFrance.InSouthAfrica,HamiltonRussellfocusesontheimportanceofitsstonyclayforgettingtheright

sortoftannins;inCalifornia,JoshJensen,withsomeofCalifornia’smostdistinguishedPinotstohisname,loveslimestone.

Butnotallcountrieshavelimestone.AccordingtosoilscientistClaudeBourguignon,55%ofFrenchsoiliscalcareous,butonly7%worldwide.Germanyhassome;CistercianmonksbringingboththeRuleofStBenedictandPinotNoirfromBurgundyreckonedthatthesoilofwhatisnowMalterdingerWildenstein(tryHuber)wasthesameasthatofChambolle-Musigny,andthesouthernPfalz(Becker,Rebholtz)andRheinhessen(Thörle,Gutzler)haveshell-limestone(MusselkalkinGerman)inabundance.InChile,Limaríhassomelimestone(tryTalinayfromTabali).InAlsace,DomaineWeinbachisgranite,Pfistermarl-limestone,Schlumbergersandstone-volcanicsoil.InGermany,theAhrandpartsoftheRheingauhaveslate,withaslittleas0.2%organicmatter.InNewZealand’sCentralOtago,FeltonRoadlikesWaengasandyloam,fineanddeep,for

Pinot.GravelandcalciferousclayproduceAuBonClimat’sBienNacidoPinotfromCalifornia’sSantaMariaValley.InOregon,vinesareplantedon92ofthestate’s800soiltypes.

WeknowthatPinotreflectsitsterroir–atermthatembracesclimate,altitudeandexposureaswellassoil–exceptionallyfaithfully,whenit’sallowedto.Butourunderstandingofhowasoilgivesaparticularcharactertoaparticularwineisinitsinfancy.Weknowthatclaygivesmid-palateweight.Weknowthatwetsoilsarecold,drysoilsarewarm,andthisaffectsripening;weknowthatsoilfertilityaffectsyields.Weknowthatalkalinesoils,likethoseinChile’sElquiandLimaríregions,givewineswithgoodacidity.Buttheseareonlythemostbasicpoints.Eventhoughthevinetakes94%ofitsdrymatterfromtheairintheformofcarbon,oxygenandhydrogen,andjustsixpercentfromthesoil,theearthdoesfarmorethanjustholdtheplantupright.

Thevinetakesnutrientsfromthesoilbyaseriesofprocesses

involvingsoilmicrobesandionexchange.Limestone,granite,orwhateverdonotliterallyenterthevineandpasstothewine.Nevertheless,differentsoilsproducePinotsthattastedifferently.InMorningtonPeninsula,thevolcanicsoilgivesbright,livelywines,thesandstonebigger,moremuscularones.Non-terroiristsputthosedifferencesdowntoobviousphysicaldifferencesliketopsoildepthordrainage–andthesefactorscertainlyhaveabigeffect.Butnon-terroiristsdon’tgrowPinot.

Terroirists,logically,shouldalsocarehowthesoilistreated.YearsofchemicalfertilizersandherbicideshadreducedthesoilsoftheCôted’Ortoadesert,withverylowlevelsofmicrobiallife.Potassiumfromfertilizershadbuiltupinthesoilandreducedacidityinthewines.Yetburgundywineissupposedtoreflectitsterroir–how,withsofewmicrobesinthesoil,coulditdothat?ThequestionhasbeenenoughtomaketheCôted’Oracentreofbiodynamism.EstatesofthestatureofdomainesLeroyandLeflaiverevelinthemicrobiallifeoftheirsoil.Othersprefer

tobeorganic,orpractisevariouslevelsofsustainability.Ploughingisbackinfashion,replacingchemicalherbicidesanddecompactingthesoil.ThesoilsoftheCôted’Orareinbetterhealththanthey’vebeenforyears.It’snocoincidencethatthewinesarebetterandmoreexpressivethanever,too.

Magicwands

Thehandofthevigneron

TheBurgundianmantrathatPinotshouldtasteofthevineyard,notthegrape,relegatesthewinemakertoamereconduit.Heorsheshouldleavenotasinglefingerprintonthewine.

Ofcoursethisisimpossible.Winemakingandviticultureareaseriesofchoices.Whetherthosechoicesareintendedtoexpressthevineyardortosteerthewinetowardsahousestyle,they’restillchoices.Forexample:doyoufermentwholebunches,ordoyoudestem?Doyourackundernitrogen,orunderair?Oldoak,ornew?Winesfromthesamevineyardmadebydifferentwinemakerswillideallyallshowthecharacterofthesite,butthehandofthewinemakerwillbeevident,too.

Thebasicchoicesstartinthevineyard:whichclone(s),howtoplant.Thereareumpteencommerciallyavailableclonesof

Pinot,andsomearebetterthanothers.Newregionstendtobefixatedonclones.Butinolderregionsthey’realsokeenontakingcuttingsfromawideselectionoftheirownfavouritevines–massalselection,thisiscalled.

Isclonemoreimportantthanclimateorsoil?Probablynot.Nor,probably,isitmoreimportantthanhowyouplant–howclosely,onwhichrootstocks,andhowmanyvinesperhectare–whichinturnneedstobeadaptedtoyourterroir.It’snogoodimitatingBurgundianpracticeinconditionsthatarenotBurgundian.IntuitionandexperiencearewhatareneededhereinordertoarriveatBurgundianfinesseandcomplexityintheglass,perhapsbymethodsthataretheoppositeofwhattheydoinCorton.InChile,forexample,ConoSursaysthatitsPinotstartedtobecomeconvincingwhenitstoppedtakingBurgundianadvice.

Burgundy,fromgrapetoglass

Thenthere’svineage.YoungPinotvinesmakesimple,drinkingwines;onlyaftertenyears(orisit20,or30?)domoreserious,age-worthywinesemerge.InBurgundy,Domainedel’Arlot’s“young”vines–around25yearsold–givewinethatismarkedlylesscomplexthanthevinesof40yearsandmore.ButfewofthePinotvinesinChile,forexample,havemorethanten

yearsofage.InMorningtonPeninsulatheoldestare20–25years,inMarlborough15yearsorless,unlessyoucountearlierplantingsofsparklingwineclones,whichwedon’t.

Oncethevineyardisintheground,however,themostimportantdecisionsaretheyieldandwhentopick.High-yieldingvinesdonotmakegreatPinot.GuntherKünstlerintheRheingaureckons40hl/haistheabsolutemaximum.Asforwhentopick:we’vetouchedonwhathappensifyougetsugarripenesswaybeforetanninripeness:highalcoholatbest,baked,raisinyflavoursatworst.WhatwewantissomethinglikeNautilusEstatefromMarlborough:floralandsavouryblack-cherryfruit.Wewantperfectbalance,seductivearomas,brightfruit,asilkytexture,noalcoholburnandagood,firm,tanniccore.

It’snicetothinkthatthebestwinemakingissimple,evenhands-off.Inpracticeittakesanawfullotofsciencetobethatsimple,andgetitright.It’ssoeasywithPinottogetitwrong.Andoneofthemostcommonproblems,particularlyinclimates

atthewarmerendofthespectrum,istoomuchoakpiledonoverripegrapes.PinotshouldnotresembleMerlot.Pinotshoulddance;andthewinemaker,ideally,shouldbethedancingmaster,nomore.

Pinotintheglass

Whentodrink

Theanswer,almost,is“atanytime”.Pinotispreciseinitschoiceofclimates,fussyabouthowit’streatedinthecellar,butwhenitcomestoopeningbottles,it’ssurprisinglyobliging.Onlythemosttannicvintagesofburgundy,like2002,gothroughaperiodwhenthey’rereallyclosedandinexpressive.Open,lushyearslike2009wereseductiveinextremeyouth,areseductivenow,andwillstillbeseductiveinafewyears’time.

YoungPinotissodeliciousthatit’ssometimeseasytowonderwhyanyoneeveragesit.Atenprimeurtastingsofeachyoungburgundyvintage,freshlybottled,therearemanywines(usuallyallbutthoseofgrandcrulevel)thatwouldbeperfecttotakehomeanddrinkthatnight.It’sthatimmediacyofaroma,thoseflowersandspices,thosefresh,crunchytannins;byputting

bottlesawayyouknowyou’lllosethose.Youhopeyou’lltradethemforgreaterdepthandcomplexityandtherisky,edgyfascinationofundergrowthandmushroomsandleather.Butallwinesagewithadegreeofunpredictability,andPinot’scapriciousnessisparticularlymarkedhere.Onceyou’vetuckedawaysomefavouritewinesfortenfor15yearsandthenfoundthemfarlessglamorousandgloriousthantheywereinyouth,you’dbeforgivenfordecidingtodrinkyourburgundyyounginfuture.(Or,ofcourse,youcouldjustleavethemforabitlongerandseewhathappens.)

Generallyspeaking,simpleBourgogneRougeshouldbedrunkafterayearortwo,andvillageorlesserpremierscruswinesatsomewherebetweenfourandtenyears,dependingonthevintage–earlierforlighteryears,lateringreatyears.Grandscrusinatopvintageshouldlastfordecadesifpreferred,anditwouldbesillytoopenthembeforethey’re15orso.Butforward,supplevintageslike2000weredrinkableevenafterfiveyears.

OutsideBurgundy,theageingpotentialofPinotischangingasthevinesage.OregonPinotsseemtoagewell;atastingofAdelsheimbackto1987lastyearrevealedonlyacoupleofwinesthatweregettingpastit;theotherswereinfinefettle.GermanPinotseemstoimproveforatleastfiveorsixyears,anda1959KlosterEberbachAssmanshäuserHöllenbergtastedin2012wasinexcellentshape.

Toageornottoage?

Pinotwithfood

Matchingflavour

ItwouldbequickertogivealistofthefoodsPinotNoirdoesn’tgowith:initsvariousmanifestationsitwillmatchavastarrayofdishes.IntheWine&FoodchapterburgundyandotherPinotsappearregularly,andcheck,too,withitsdishestoservewithyourveryfinestburgundies.Gameisanatural–couldtherebeamoreperfectpartnerforroastgrouseorwoodcock,withtheirdeep,exoticaromas,thanabottleofgrandcru?

Butlife,alas,doesnotconsistonlyofroastgrouse.ThoseMondaynightsofsalmonfishcakesarejustthetimeforastraightforwardBourgogneRouge;piscivoresneednotabandonPinotjustbecauseit’sred.Redmulletisanothergoodfishymatch;(light)Pinotwinswithfishbecauseofitsmoderateandsuppletannins.

ThemainthingtoconsiderwhenmatchingPinotwithfoodisweight.ThinkofPinotasaspectrumwith,atoneend,thedelicacyofunoakedAlsacePinotand,attheother,aCalifornian,orevenaChileanPinot.AfterAlsacecomethelightestburgundies,theBourgogneRougesandCôtesdeBeaunesorCôtesdeNuitsandtheHautes-Côtes;these,fromatopgrower,willhavethepunchforpigeon,forexample.OregonPinotisprobablytheclosesttoburgundyinstyleandweightintheNewWorld.Salamiandothercharcuteriearegoodwiththesewines.

Butifyou’reservingthepigeonwithsweetredcurrantjelly,orwithasaucemadefromit,thenthinkaboutNewZealandorMorningtonPeninsula,withtheirbigfruit,orindeedtheweightofpremiercruburgundyorGrossesGewächsGermanPinot.ThispartofthePinotspectrumwillhappilypartnerroastbeef(quiteadelicatebutdeepflavour)andduck–delicateagain,butoftenwithbright,sweetishaccompaniments.Slow-cookedporkwillbehappywithPinotsofthisweight,androastchickenisanatural.

AsthewinegetsmoreNew-Worldy–theintensityoftheSonomaCoast,theredcurrantfruitofChile–then(providingthere’snottoomuchoakinthewine,whichtherecanbe)putitwiththepungencyofgammon,orroastgoosewithslow-braisedredcabbage.

ThesleektanninsofPinotmeanthatitgoeswellwithsauces,withtexturematchingtexture;andmaturePinot,withitsspectrumofflavours,canmatchthemyriadnuancesofChinesefood–thoughprobablynotSzechuan.MaturePinotworksherebecausecomplexitycanmatchcomplexity,subtletycanmatchsubtlety;andthesilkinessofmaturetanninswillmeldwiththetextureofthefood,notbounceoffitasyoungtanninswill.

Theveryoldestwineswillbemoredelicate,anddeservefoodtailoredtoflatterthem.Youngerwines,morerobustinflavour,willhandleagreatervarietyoffoods.Andifindoubt,addabitofsalt:it’sagreatshortcuttomatchingfoodandwine.

Anaturalwithsalmon

Keypeople

Who’swhoinPinot

JIMCLENDENEN

JIMCLENDENEN:AUBONCLIMATWhatisitaboutwineandlaw?Threeofoursixkeyfiguresstudiedlawbeforedecidingwinewasmorefun;andforJimClendenenitwashisjunioryearabroadthatshookhisresolutiontobealawyer.AfterhegraduatedhestayedforamonthinBurgundyandChampagne;andthatwasthat.LawwentoutofthewindowandPinotcamein.

HestartedAuBonClimatin1982,andnowithasvineyardsinvariouspartsofSantaBarbara:thesearePinotstomaketheNapaValleyweep.(Mindyou,hisshirtsmightmakeatailorweep,thoughfordifferentreasons,andhishaircutmightpossiblyupsetabarber.)Hiswinesareallaboutbalance,finesseandcomplexity;abouttheinfluenceofthePacificOcean,andoftheCôted’Or,andofsouthernCalifornia.He’salsomadeanamefor

Italianvarietals,butPinotremainshisfirstlove.“Itrytodancethemostwiththegirlwhobrungme,”hesays.

VERONIQUEDROUHIN

VERONIQUEDROUHIN:DOMAINEDROUHINVeroniquewasalwaysgoingtobeawinemaker.ShestudiedoenologyatDijonandthenreturnedtothefamilydomaintomakewine;andin1988,withherfatherRobert,shemadethefirstvintageatanewDomaineDrouhin,thistimeinOregon’sDundeeHills.ThewineswereunsettlinglyBurgundianincharacterfromthestart–morethanoneburgundyexperthasmistakenthem,blind,forCôted’Or.

Veronique’sresponseisthattheOregonwinesaredarkerandmorespicy,butstillfreshandelegant.ThatDrouhinshouldsetupinOregongaveahugecredibilityboosttothestate;andnowshe’sratheramusedwhenvisitorstothedomainsay,“Oh,youmakewineinFranceaswell?”

NIGELGREENING

NIGELGREENING:FELTONROADIfyoustartwithaloveofburgundyandthesortofcareerthattakesyoutothePacificRimforBMW,thenit’spossiblethatyoumightfindyourselfinNewZealand,andyoumighttherediscoverthebestNewWorldPinotyou’devertasted.Youmightthendecidetobuyachunkoflandyourself,andplantit.WhatNigelGreeningboughtwasCornishPointinCentralOtago,followedsomeyearslaterbyFeltonRoad.“IgaveStewartElms[ofFeltonRoad]everythingIownedexceptmyhouse,andhegavemeFeltonRoad,”hesays.

Nigelisascientistatheart,andhisviticultureandwinemakingareself-taught.FeltonRoadisbiodynamic,thoughwithastreakofscepticism:yougetmorebenefitsfrombiodynamismbyhavingatop-classviticulturalteam,hereckons,thanfromastag’sbladderandacalender.Winemakingisnon-

interventionist,yeastsarewild–andNigelcookslunchfortheentireteameveryday.Andheplaysthejazzguitar;that’sself-taught,too.

JAMESHALLIDAY

JAMESHALLIDAY:COLDSTREAMHILLSJames’sdayjobwaslaw,but,youmightsay,onlyjust.Atcollegehisprowessseemedtobeforsnookerratherthanforhisbooks,andheoncewentintoalawexamneverhavinggonetoanylecturesforit.Forthelastfewdecades,however,hehasbeenaworkaholic,combiningwinemakingwithwritingandwine-showjudging,travellingtheworldand,ontherareoccasionshe’sinhisoffice,working12-hourdays.PocketWineBookcontributorCampbellMattinsonrelatesthatononeflightfromSydneytoSingaporehewrotesixnewspaperarticlesandaskedthecabincrewtopostthembackforhim.

Oneofhisroleswasasacontributortothisbook,butinthePinotuniverseit’shiswinesfromhisColdstreamHillswineryintheYarraValleythatgiveweighttohisguidanceoftheAustralianpalateandhisadvicetootherwinemakers.Heproved,atColdstreamHills,thatAustraliacouldmakegreatPinotthatis

neverthelessthoroughlyAustralian.

KLAUSPETERKELLER

KLAUSPETERKELLER:KELLERKlausPeterKelleriswellawareoftheironyofproducinggreatPinotclosetowheresomeofGermany’sworstwinesweremade.HispartoftheRheinhessenisnearWorms,homeofLiebfraumilch–andmanyofitsimitators,growninvastvolumeintheRheinhessen,wereevenworse.Theterroirherewasneverconsideredpromising,thoughKlausPeter’sfather,Klaus,beganthemeticulousvineyardworkthathissonhascontinued.Digging60,000holesinthevineyardsenabledthemtounderstandtheirsoil,however,sothatclones,rootstocksandviticulturecanbeadaptedtoeachparcel.

Klaus-Petersetaboutacquiringsomeothertopparcelsofvines,too.Andthen,assooften,theyfoundthattheirbestsites–forPinot,theGrossesGewächsvineyardofBürgelinDalsheim,withshell-limestonesoil–hadbeenhighlyregardedinthe

MiddleAges.Mineralityistheaim,andextendingtheripeningperiodforaslongaspossible,forfreshnesswithlivelyacidity,ispartofthemethod.RheinhessenisnowGermany’smostlivelyandexperimentalregion;andKlausPetermakesitsbestPinot.

AUBERTDEVILLAINE

AUBERTDEVILLAINE:DOMAINEDELAROMANÉE-CONTITheDRC,themostfamousofallBurgundydomains,isownedjointlybytwofamilies:thedeVillainesandtheLeroys.Aubertwasbynomeanscertainthathewouldenduprunningit,sostudiedlawthenworkedinthewinetradeinNewYorkbeforeaskingifhecouldjointhedomainasanapprentice.Hedroveatractor,heswepttheyard;andin1974wasappointedco-directorwithLalouBize-Leroy.

ThesewerenottheDRC’sgloryyears,andthetwoofthemmadeittheirmissiontorestorethequalityofthewines,startinginthevineyards.Amega-rowovercommercialmattersledtoLalouBize-Leroy’sdepartureintheearly1990s,butAuberthascontinuedtoworkrigorouslyforquality:thedomainisnowbiodynamic,andAubertseesitashislife’sworktointerpretoneoftheworld’sgreatterroirs.Hecombinesprofoundhumilitywith

deepdetermination.

QuickreferencevintagechartsThesechartsgiveapictureoftherangeofqualitiesmadeintheprincipal“classic”areas(everyyearhasitsrelativesuccessesandfailures)andaguidetowhetherthewineisreadytodrinkorshouldbekept.Generalizationsareunavoidable.

Beaujolais2011,10,09,08.Cruswillkeep.Mâcon–Villages(white).Drink11,10,09.Loire(SweetAnjouandTouraine)bestrecentvintages:10,09,07,05,02,97,96,93,90,89;Bourgueil,Chinon,Saumur–Champigny:10,09,06,05,04,02,00,99.UpperLoire(Sancerre,Pouilly–Fumé):10,09,08MuscadetDYA.

Alittlelearning…

AfewtechnicalwordsThejargonoflaboratoryanalysisisoftenseenonback-labels.Itcreepsmenacinglyintonewspapersandmagazines.Whatdoesitmean?Thishard-edgedwine-talk,unsympatheticasitistomostloversofwine,isverybrieflyexplainedbelow.Alcoholcontent(mainlyethylalcohol)isexpressedinpercent

byvolumeofthetotalliquid.(Alsoknownas“degrees”.)Tablewinesareusuallybetween12.5°and14.5°,thoughupto16°isincreasinglyseen.

Acidityisbothfixedandvolatile.Fixedacidityconsistsprincipallyoftartaric,malicandcitricacids,allfoundinthegrape,andlacticandsuccinicacids,producedduring

fermentation.Volatileacidityconsistsmainlyofaceticacid,whichisrapidlyformedbybacteriainthepresenceofoxygen.Asmallamountofvolatileacidityisinevitableandevenattractive.Withalargeramountthewinebecomes“pricked”–tousetheShakespearianterm.Itturnstovinegar.Aciditymaybenatural,inwarmregionsitmayalsobeadded.

Totalacidityisfixedandvolatileaciditycombined.Asaruleofthumb,forawell-balancedwineitshouldbeintheregionofonegramperthousandforeach10°Oechsle(seeabove).

BarriquesVitaltomodernwine,eitherinageingand/orforfermentinginbarrels(thenewerthebarrelthestrongertheinfluence)orfromtheadditionofoakchipsor–atworst–oakessence.Newcomerstowinecaneasilybebeguiledbythevanilla-likescentandflavourintothinkingtheyhaveboughtsomethingluxuriousratherthansomething

cosmeticallyflavoured.Butbarrelsareexpensive;realonesareonlyusedforwineswiththeinherentqualitytobenefitlong-term.Frenchoakisclassicandmostexpensive.Americanoakhasastrongvanillaflavour.

Malolacticfermentationisoftenreferredtoasasecondaryfermentation,andcanoccurnaturallyorbeinduced.Theprocessinvolvesconvertingtartmalicacidintosofterlacticacid.Unrelatedtoalcoholicfermentation,the“malo”canaddcomplexityandflavourtobothredandwhitewines.Inhotterclimateswherenaturalaciditymaybelowcannyoperatorsavoidit.

Micro-oxygenationisawidelyusedtechniquethatallowsthewinecontrolledcontactwithoxygenduringmaturation.Thismimicstheeffectofbarrel-ageing,reducestheneedforracking,andhelpstostabilizethewine.

pHisameasureofthestrengthoftheacidity:thelowerthe

figurethemoreacid.WineusuallyrangesfrompH2.8to3.8.HighpHcanbeaprobleminhotclimates.LowerpHgivesbettercolour,helpsstopbacterialspoilageandallowsmoreoftheSO2tobefreeandactiveasapreservative.

Residualsugaristhatleftafterfermentationhasfinishedorbeenstopped,measuredingramsperlitre.Adrywinehasvirtuallynone.

Sulphurdioxide(SO2)isaddedtopreventoxidationandotheraccidentsinwinemaking.Someofitcombineswithsugarsetcandis“bound”.Onlythe“free”SO2iseffectiveasapreservative.TotalSO2iscontrolledbylawaccordingtothelevelofresidualsugar:themoresugar,themoreSO2isneeded.

Tanninsarethefocusofattentionforred-winemakersintentonproducingsofter,moreapproachablewines.Laterpicking,andpickingbytanninripenessratherthansugarlevelsgives

riper,silkiertannins.Toastreferstotheburningoftheinsideofthebarrel.“High

toast”givesthewinecaramel-likeflavours.

TherighttemperatureNosingleaspectofservingwinemakesormarsitsoeasilyasgettingthetemperatureright.Whitewinesalmostinvariablytastedullandinsipidservedwarmandredwineshavedisappointinglylittlescentorflavourservedcold.Thechartbelowgivesanindicationofwhatisgenerallyfoundtobethemostsatisfactorytemperatureforservingeachclassofwine.