How to bind a book

7/27/2019 How to bind a book

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Aug 29, 2006

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Ever wanted to make a journal that was exactly the way you wanted it? Or maybe you have access to a

print center at work when no one's around and you enjoy printing off novels (of *course* I wouldn't do

that...).

But how do you make that magical step between loose pages and a beautifu l, fully bound volume?

Read on, fellow bibliophiles, read on.

(Other uses that have just occured to me-- your own calendar, a hollow book, archiving

magazines/comics, etc)

**UPDATE: All of the photos are up, and should help to clarify the process. Yay!

Step 1: Prepare your materials

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This is, unfortunately, going to require some materials that you won't be able to find around your

house. I have included suggestions for scrounge materials you could possibly switch in, but no

guarantees as to durability or looks. I would also highly recommend printing out the entire instructableso that you have it handy-- your hands will be full (and sticky!) enought to make going to the computer

difficult. Coloured paper is good (so you don't get it mixed in with the other papers), but white will

suffice.

You'll need: (an overview of what you can buy online at

http://www.dickblick.com/categories/bookmaking/) (http://www.dickblick.com/categories/bookmaking/))

*Paper

*A papercutter (useful, but not always required)

*Scissors*Straightedge Ruler (you'll need to measure and crease)

*PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate-- find bookbinding glue in your local art store (or

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http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/44/) (http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/44/))

*Paintbrush for spreading PVA

PVA is very durable and flexible-- you can make do with Elmer's Glue, but it's not as good)

*Cover board (I use chipboard because it's cheaper http://www.dickblick.com/itemgroups-c/chipboard/

(http://www.dickblick.com/itemgroups-c/chipboard/) but other people swear by binder's board

http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/27/ (http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/27/), make do with non-corrugated

cardboard)

*Bookbinding cloth (this is almost completely necessary; if you *have* to make do, glue some cloth

onto paper.) http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/45/ (http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/45/)

*Bookbinding needles (sewing needles aren't strong enough-- embroidery might work)*Waxed thread (http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/41/ (http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/41/) or wax some

emboidery thread with beeswax http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/26/

(http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/26/)) Dental floss might work, but I haven't tr ied it.

*Head Material (also really hard to scrounge; any ideas for in a pinch?)

http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/37/ (http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/37/)

*Cloth for adhering signatures (preferable a loose weave cotton, but I've had success with thickish

clothing cloth) http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/29/ (http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/29/)

*Awl (this is a lso almost essential; try and make do with a pointed compass, but it won't be pleasant)

*Pretty paper for the cover

*Pretty (thicker) paper for the endpages**Optional bone folder for nicer (flatter) creases

http://www.dickblick.com/zz128/29/






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Oct 11, 2012. 11:00 PM Reply (CCX0E0WH82U86NW)

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justin.lee.85 (/member/ justin.lee.85/) in reply to XP1

Amazing! That's actually what Iwas looking to do. Any chance of an instructable? I'm mostlycurious about the metal cornersand bookmarks...oh and the inner page of the cover...

XP1 (/member/XP1/) in reply to justin.lee.85

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Apr 2, 2010. 2:22 PM Reply (CJC1QLTG7DYP5NP)

Actually, the corners were found at Michael's in the scrappbooking section. They were notoo durable; however, if you look online, I have found that you can find some nice silver

plated corners for your project. The inside page/cover section was the first page of the actualbound paper "insert" glued to the cover, with a piece of card stock overlapping the gapbetween the cover and the insert. On top of that was a piece of paper which was cut to s izeand applied accordingly.

Good luck on your project. If you have any more questions let me know.

kdelwat (/member/kdelwat/) says:

Awesome! I looked for bookbinding tutorials and found this. Well-written, good job. I'm going to usehis to make a notebook.

NocturnalDaze (/member/NocturnalDaze/) says:

The cloth for the spine is supposed to beunder the paper for the cover.

Spine cloth covers binding and part of thecover boardThen you apply the cover paper to over that.

That way your binding is better protectedsince it the most crucial part.

the mastergoat (/member/the+mastergoat/) says:

Nice instructable! I honestly prefer it to bothbooks I found on book binding. But do youever press your books or have any insite ondoing so? I am not sure if it is entirelynecissary but it is supposed to help stop anywarping and get bubbles in glue out.

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to the mastergoat

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Jan 17, 2011. 12:00 AM Reply (C5AFNXLGIWZLNY0)

I don't press my books, mostly because I don't have space for a vice or press, but Ifrequently use very large binder clips to keep everything together. I brush on all my glue toprevent bubbles as well (using a watered-down glue solution instead of full-strength PVAhelps immensely, particularly with the cover paper)

AdamVanMeter (/member/AdamVanMeter/) in reply to eleraama

Another substitute for a big oldbook vice is to use one or two C-clamps and two pieces of scrapwood to spread out the pressureand prevent marring the book.

And even cheaper and simpler,you can use long bankers clipslike they sell at some officesupply stores and just clamp thespine lightly that way.

mbear (/member/mbear/) in reply to eleraama

Instead of a full sized press, lookaround for a set of encyclopedias,phone books, dictionaries, etc. Thenyou have a way of putting pressureon the book without losing a lot of space in your home.

probablepossible (/member/probablepossible/) says:

Excellent set of intructions! I've been kindafaking my way through various ways of binding since a was a kid. This time, I think Ihave created my first REAL bound book.

I blogged about it-- and gave you credit;http://probablepossible.com/2011/01/17/book-binding-for-fun-not-profit/

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WhyHello (/member/WhyHello/) in reply to probablepossible

your link didnt work for me :(

probablepossible (/member/probablepossible/) in reply to WhyHello

Oops-- try this link?http://probablepossible.com/probabiliti

binding-for-fun-not-profit/

WhyHello (/member/WhyHello/) in reply to probablepossible

hank you!

Abbie McMillen (/member/Abbie+McMillen/) says:

Just stumbled upon this very usefulinstruction while searching the internet after getting a $200 est imate from a bookbinder!Yikes! I'm making my own next 5-year blankdiary because Levenger has stopped carryinghem - and theirs were too "glitzy" anyway. I

used PrintShop software to format the pagesand looked up the day/dates for future yearson the internet. It took quite a while to format, but now that it's done, printed, and ready tobind, I think I will be making some as gifts -

provided I like my binding results. I'm using32 pound paper with a nice "tooth" for writing/drawing, and each month gets eightfull sheets in two signatures (4 sheets per signature, 24 signatures total, 96 full sheetsof paper for the 8.5 x 5.5 inch book.) W ishme luck with the binding! Thanks so much for he how-to!

kp77angel (/member/kp77angel/) says:

Thanks a bunch- been after something like this for a while and you've got me wanting to make oneright now... what to bind... hmmm...!

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VeryIrrelevant (/member/VeryIrrelevant/) says:

This is awesome, thank you so much for posting (all those years ago). I just stumbledupon this site so I'm not sure if you'll reply butI was wondering how you would printsomething so you could bind it. A friend and I

have sort of written a book, if you could callour ramblings a book and I thought it would bea lovely gift to her if you could give it to her ina bound book.

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to VeryIrrelevant

Any copy center should be ableo print double-sided in "booklet"

mode for a few cents a page; if

it's not too long and you work inan office, you could probably alsoust run it off on your office'smegaprinter/copier. If the projecthas fewer than about 25 pages,you'll want to use perfect bindinginstead of case binding.

I just ran a 26 page PDF throughFedex Office's online print order system (was redirected fromkinkos.com) and it was estimatedo cost about $5 USD for an all

black and white print.

If you do have someone print it,remember to have it collated inbooklets of 28 pages, which endsup being 7 sheets (you can fudgehis, but no fewer than 4 sheets

per folio or they'll tear, and nomore than 9 or it's too unwieldy)

sweet_hart96 (/member/sweet_hart96/) says:

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Feb 4, 2011. 9:25 AM Reply (C4MD9QYGJQEJ6O5)

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Oct 19, 2010. 9:06 PM Reply (COZYYY8GFA3Z1C9)

Any idea if "Elmers carpenter's wood glue" will work?

sreepradaramakrishna (/member/sreepradaramakrishna/) in reply to sweet_hart96

YEA... ITS O.K

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to sweet_hart96

I would suspect not (at least, not if you wanted to keep the finishedpiece around); most of the woodglues I've worked with have beenbrittle and may be acidic.

hich is to say: It will work, but the

book will probably eventually self-destruct. Normal Elmer's glue isPVA, which is much better, or youcan make wheat paste.

carpe_noctem (/member/carpe_noctem/) in reply to eleraama

don't quote me, but i heard thatelmer's wood glue is the same asits wood glue, except in

concentration (and perhaps a fewminor formula changes). If anyonehas any definite info on that, pleaseshare

Xeaden (/member/Xeaden/) says:

ow this is a great tutorial! Im going to try making one! My only suggestion would be, if possible,even more pictures! Im a visual learner, so its better :)

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i have used duck tape when my husband asks me too. i have found that so far and it has only been ayear, that 1. it has to stay out of the sun or heat, because it will pucker and makes it look awful. and2. so far the adhesive hasn't given out maybe in five years or so if he keeps leaving it in the car window. im not too happy with him leaving it like that after i worked so hard to repair it in the firstplace.


you can normally find beeswax in thecosmetics department its used for scalpshats where i always find it im a seamstress

and use it for my needles all the time. also aless expensive alternative to PVA is rubber cement it has done me really good

dreachan (/member/dreachan/) says:

can i use something else like duck tape?

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to dreachan

You can try but I seriously doubtit will end well; the adhesive is notpH-neutral (as far as I'm aware) soit will start to eat away at thestructural integrity of the book and

it tends to get brittle with age.(That being said, if you don't reallycare about the book's longevity itmay be worth a try) The paper I'veused in the picture is a pH-neutralkraft paper; it has more cellulosehan normal paper so it stands upo more abuse.

dreachan (/member/dreachan/) says:have u made this into a video tutorial?? im more of a visual learner ^-^.love the project!!!!

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Aug 29, 2009. 8:46 PM Reply (C9GF2UAFYYNDG6X)


Apr 3, 2010. 1:36 PM Reply (CBWDFQQG7DYJZCP)

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Aug 29, 2009. 8:02 PM Reply (CRGQKA3FYYNDFSK)

(/member/542458/)

Dec 9, 2009. 5:36 AM Reply (CAF1EUCG2ZXVLX5)

(/member/neo_pessimist24/)

Jul 25, 2009. 10:24 AM Reply (CHKI8HOFXK6A1YU)

jdc187 (/membe r/jdc187/) says:

im a litt le lost did you trim the head st rips or are they under the cover. also for those of you that wanta seemles look for the cover try covering the whole thing with a cloth of your choice after you put itogether but befor you glue the pages to the cover

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to jdc187

I apologise for not replying to thisearlier, but in case someone elsehas the same question, the head*must* be glued to the board for thebook to stay together. The clothplaced on the binding is there tomake the binding stay together andremain flexible, not to keep thecovers on.


would realy like to see a close up of the kettle stitch but so far found the instructions very easy tofollow

542458 (/member/542458/) in reply to jdc187

I'm sure you've already completedyour project, but I'll post this here for anyone else having the sameroubles as jdc.

This site explains and illustrateskettle stitches pretty well.http://www.csparks.com/Bookbinding/

neo_pessimist24 (/member/neo_pessimist24/) says:

ould tacky glue work?

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1

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Jul 22, 2009. 6:51 PM Reply (CTZWGKJFXETT1PX)

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May 10, 2009. 11:33 PM Reply (CEIT5ZJFUI0UF1N)

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May 11, 2009. 12:08 AM Reply (CIGSEAPFUI0OX3C)

Dr. Steel (/member/Dr.+Steel/) says:

This is actually a very good instructable, hoever, it is kind of hard to see whats going on in thepictures at times.

cplkao (/member/cplkao/) says:Its a great help, but I hope your photos are a bit clearer, maybe forgot to turn on the macro mode ;)

jrobin276 (/member/ jrobin276/) says:

Linen bookbinding thread is best, although I know people who use waxed embroidery floss. Dentalfloss st retches - don't use it! Not only is it frustrating to work with, but over time it will s tretch andyour book will start falling apart. A thumb tack is another good alternative to an awl. Wheat paste isused traditionally, and is made by boiling unbleached flour and water - recipes are easily found online,it's WAY cheaper than PVA, and works just as well.

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to jrobin276

The one thing I'd caution is thatwheat paste eventually cracksunless you keep it somewherereasonably humid. PVA is flexibleand tends to hold up better over ime.

jrobin276 (/member/jrobin276/) in reply to eleraama

I've actually found the same thing! Also, don't make much wheatpaste at a time - that stuff moldsQUICK.

kamondark (/member/kamondark/) says:

hey man, what exactly is a bone folder?

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(/member/kamondark/)

Mar 25, 2009. 11:49 PM Reply (CTG0WC7FSPRKWF8)


May 10, 2009. 11:31 PM Reply (CNL79KTFUI0UF05)

Post Comment

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to kamondark

A bone folder is a piece of bone/porcelain/plastic with a hard,

straight edge to make creasessharper (they use them a lot inorigami)

1-40 of 92

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Step 2: Cut and fold the pages

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Cut the pages to the proper size, which is the height you want them to be and twice the width

So, if I want 8.5 x 5.5 pages, I would use 8.5 x 11 paper (landscape style)

Or if I want a 9 x 5 it would be 9 x 10 paper.

Then fold them in half "hamburger" style (fold the long edge in half) and collate them into signatures.

A "signature" is a small packet of pages nesting inside of each other. I personally use 7 sheet (that's

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**If your book is, say, 12 pages only, it's okay. But you can't really do more than two or so "thick"

signatures)

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(/member/anonymous+angel/)

May 6, 2009. 11:42 PM Reply (CC17IW2FU6M08I1)

Mark 1/2" in from the top edge and 3/4" in from the bottom edge.

Then measure the space in between and divide by the number of binding strips you'll use.

In general, three suffices. If the book will be thick, use four, or five if you're really worried.

Mark them across the spine. (ie, for the number five, at 5, 10, 15 and 20).

Then measure the width of your head material; divide it in half and mark that number to each side of

the marking (framing it in, as it were).

(Of course, this doesn't have to be exact; I do mine by eye.)

So, in this example, the purple markings are the head markings and pink markings are the calculatedmarks, then orange markes are where the edges of the head material will be.

anonymous angel (/member/anonymous+angel/) says:

i dont get this part can you plz explain it with

easier language? p.s this isn't criticism, im

asking

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to anonymous angel

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You need to divide the spine up into however many strips of "head" you're going to use, and

hen mark where it needs to go. The strips should be evenly spaced. The easiest way to do

his is measure how long the spine is, subtract the "dead" space you need at the top and

bottom (~1.25 inches), and then divide that number by how many strips you're going to use.


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Step 4: Cut the cerf and punch the holes

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Now, using scissors, snip out little triangles at the head and foot marks. (You're really supposed to saw

it with a little hacksaw, but I doubt many people have a handheld hacksaw lying around).

Then punch the awl through the edge marks, careful to punch them directly out of the spine and not

the page.

Thread the needle with waxed thread. (you'll need a lot, but don't get carried away; you can always

add more)

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(/member/Svalin/)

Sep 17, 2006. 2:32 PM Reply (E9KXNAOO08ES176FT3)Svalin (/member/Svalin/) says:

Actually, one can use a dremel with a circular disk attachment to make the cuts. Works really well,

hough can slightly char the paper if used on high speed. Try it : ) !


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Step 5: Cut and sew the bindings

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The bindings need to be cut to the thickness of the book (when all signatures are together) plus an

inch or so.

The first signature you should sew are the first endpages, followed by signature 1 of the book, then

the rest.

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Post Comment

(/member/HeatherNicholds/)

Nov 6, 2008. 7:30 PM Reply (CQ31FLGFN84QXUT)

2

(/member/eleraama/)

Nov 6, 2008. 8:32 PM Reply (CMVVLHSFN82TD49)

Insert the needle *into* the head and draw all but about 2 inches through. Then go *out* at the first

punch you come to and pull it tight. Go *in* to the next hole-- but make sure that the binding is between

the thread and the spine (as in the image). Repeat for as many bindings as there are, then come out

through the foot notch. Prepare the next signature.

HeatherNicholds (/member/HeatherNicholds/) says:

Couple questions.. . what are the endpagesyou refer to for where to start sewing? what

happens to the first end of string? i.e. what do

you secure it to? Thanks - I'm sure once I get

myself sorted out a bit this will all make

perfect sense!

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to HeatherNicholds

The endpages are the blank (usually

differently coloured) pages before theactual title page and text block (if you

open up a hardcover, they're the first


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and last pages you see). Usually

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and last pages you see). Usually

here are 1 or 2 (unfolded) pages at

he front and at the back-- you're

going to glue the first page of the

front pages to the board, and hence

he last page of the bottom pages.

The thread doesn't actually have to

get attached to anything (sometimes

I knot it so it doesn't slip through the

cerf in the first couple of signatures;

after that, the sewing itself is whatkeeps the s ignatures together and

he end is useless.)

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Sew up the next signature in the same way (except you'll be entering at the foot stitch), and then the


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p g y ( p y g ),

third. When you're at the bottom of the third (notice the zigzagging back and forth), kettle stitch it to the

second.

This means to take the needle, put it *under* the thread running between signatures 1 and 2, then put

it through the loop that's formed.

From now on, you'll kettle stitch the whenever you reach a head or foot.

NOTE: It is very important to continually pull the slack out of the thread--the tighter the binding is, thestronger the book!

Continue to sew all the rest of the signature in this way, remembering the kettle stitch.

If you run out of thread, simply knot a new piece onto in inside the book (tightly) and clip off the "tails".

When you're done sewing up the pages, add the final endpages, and double kettle-stitch.

(Sorry for the lack of pictures-- my camera ran out of juice and I've just moved to a dormitory, leaving

behind the charger. Hope to have them up by next week.)

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Aug 29, 2009. 8:02 PM Reply (CRGQKA3FYYNDFSK) jdc187 (/membe r/jdc187/) says: See More (/tag/type-id/?q=)



























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Aug 29, 2009. 8:02 PM p y ( )

(/member/542458/)

Dec 9, 2009. 5:36 AM Reply (CAF1EUCG2ZXVLX5)

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Sep 6, 2006. 3:07 PM Reply (E58JNZDQ1ZERIE2V9T)

2

(/member/eleraama/)

Dec 6, 2006. 12:27 PM Reply (ERF1CC1EW3EV2Z680K)

would realy like to see a close up of the kettle stitch but so far found the instructions very easy to

follow

542458 (/member/542458/) in reply to jdc187

I'm sure you've already completed

your project, but I'll post this here for

anyone else having the sameroubles as jdc.

This site explains and illustrates

kettle stitches pretty well.

http://www.csparks.com/Bookbinding/

mf70 (/member/mf70/) says:

If you tie the thread on the OUTSIDE, over the tape, the cut ends won't show after the spine is in

place. So what's a good knot?

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to mf70

Either works. It's just a little

difficult to tie a knot in the tiny

spaces you have peeking out of

he back.

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When you've sewn all the signatures together, double kettle stitch the final head or foot. Then take the

PVA and squirt some onto your finger (or a paintbrush, but you finger works better and it's fun to peel

off the glue) then rub it *into* the spine. It is important that some (albeit just a bit of) glue gets in

between the signatures and fills in the spine. When this is done, cut a piece of cloth (not bookcloth) to

a little bigger than the dimensions of the spine. Stick this onto the wet glue and smooth it out. Then cut

(http://cdn.instructables.com /FUW/05O7/KB0EV2ZG5SE/FUW05O7KB0EV2ZG5SE.LARGE.jpg)

a piece of heavy cardstock to the exact dimensions of the spine and glue it onto the cloth. Rub it

h

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Jun 27, 2010. 2:57 PM Reply (CCRN4SNGAPV3FQ0)

smooth.

NOTE: During all this, make sure the bindings are centered and sticking out! I once clipped one off

while trimming the card, so be careful.


i have used duck tape when my husband

asks me too. i have found that so far and it

has only been a year, that 1. it has to stay

out of the sun or heat, because it will pucker

and makes it look awful. and 2. so far the

adhesive hasn't given out maybe in five years

or so if he keeps leaving it in the car window.

im not too happy with him leaving it like that

after i worked so hard to repair it in the first

place.


Jun 27, 2010. 1:03 AM Reply (CYA4FM8GAPV3E61)



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Jun 27, 2010. 10:49 AM Reply (CCD6QHKGATU1M2V)

can i use something else like duck tape?

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to dreachan

You can try but I seriously doubt

it will end well; the adhesive is not

pH-neutral (as far as I'm aware) soit will start to eat away at the

structural integrity of the book and

it tends to get brittle with age.

(That being said, if you don't really

care about the book's longevity it

may be worth a try) The paper I've

used in the picture is a pH-neutral

kraft paper; it has more cellulose

han normal paper so it stands up

o more abuse.

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While the spine glue is drying, pull out your cover material and measure it.

You want:The width of the pages plus 1/4"

The height of the pages plus 1/2"

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRW/51R0/73VEV2ZG5R5/FRW51R073VEV2ZG5R5.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FYJ/G0OX/R6GEV2ZG5Z3/FYJG0OXR6GEV2ZG5Z3.LARGE.jpg)

(Make these as square* as possible)

Make two of these obviously-- the front cover and back cover

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Make two of these, obviously-- the front cover and back cover.

It is important to add the extra space so there's overhang and the cover completely protects the

pages.

Cut the paper you are going to cover the cover with to:

The cover width plus 1/2" or 1"

The cover height plus 1/2" or 1"

This allows it to wrap over the edges and inside enough. If you look at a bound book, there is about

1/4" of the cover paper on the edges of the inside before it gets covered by endpaper.

Then prepare the spine piece-- a piece of coverstock the exact dimensions of the spine. It doesn't

need to be papered (it'll be covered up by the bookcloth).

Glue the coverpaper onto the cover, making sure that it is centered (I like to apply glue to the board,

then lower it onto the paper.)

Flatten it and work out all of the air bubbles with something round (I'm using a tin whistle in the picture),

then apply glue to the edges of the paper, folding it over onto itself. You can either have square folds,

or cut them with a knife/scissors into lovely 45 degree dovetails.

*Square means having all 90 degree angles. Or pi/2 radians, if you're into that sort of thing.

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(/member/sadtrapofgravity/)

Apr 18, 2009. 4:06 PM Reply (CCC1AWVFTO53YFQ)

(/member/cloaked+woodsman/)

Mar 30, 2008. 11:55 PM Reply (C03HX9AFEG408V3)

sadtrapofgravity (/member/sadtrapofgravity/) says:

hat woodsman up yonder stole my line : )

(awesome inst ructable, btw)

cloaked woodsman (/member/cloaked+woodsman/) says:

Your jokes are funny!

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Step 9: Cut 'n' Paste (well, glue anyway) About This Instructable

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Cut the bookbinding cloth.

it needs to be:

height of the covers plus 3/4" or so

amount of cloth you want on the cover (I like 1.5 to 2") times two plus half an inch

(so, for example, (1.5 x 2) = 3 + 1/2 = 3 1/2 inches wide)

center the cloth on the covers and spine piece, leaving a gap between them (to measure the gap, it's

helpful to close the covers then hold them still while opening them).

There should be excess cloth on the top and bottom.Mark the position of the covers and spine piece, then glue them down. Fold the excess cloth in, then

glue it down.

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Take the prepared signatures and glue the binding strips (and, if there's enough, the cloth) to the

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(/member/dreachan/)

Jun 25, 2010. 3:54 PM Reply (C2JYGSSGAPURUV5)

p p g g g p ( g )

inside of the covers, centering it on the spine piece.

Almost done!

Cut the endpapers to the proper size (I like mine set in about 1/4" on all sides except the binding side),

then glue them on. This hides the actual binding ("head") strips as well as the gap in the bookcloth.

Plus, it's a great way to use papers that are a little too busy for the cover but you still love.

(Traditionally, marbled papers were used for the endpapers, but I like a sort of "natural" coloured

cardstock with specks of colour).

Let it dry for a while-- 24 hours is best. To set the glues, I like to clip the pages together with a giant

binder clip and then leave the cover to dry flat.


have u made this into a video tutorial?? im more of a visual learner ^-^.love the project!!!!

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Jul 25, 2009. 10:24 AM Reply (CHKI8HOFXK6A1YU)

ould tacky glue work?

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p ( g yp ) ( j p) ( ) y ( y ) g ( y )

Ta-da! You've created a marvelous thing-- a nicely hand bound book. And you did it all by yourself

(with a little help!)


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Apr 23, 2012. 1:08 AM Reply (C1D04O0H19RT8K6)

(/member/the+mastergoat/)

Apr 2, 2010. 2:22 PM Reply (CJC1QLTG7DYP5NP)

You're amazing!

Please comment with any questions, or clarifications. I hope that with all the pictures up, it will make the

process a lot clearer, and inspire more people to join the ranks of hobby binders.

kdelwat (/member/kdelwat/) says:

Awesome! I looked for bookbinding tutorials and found this. Well-written, good job. I'm going to use

his to make a notebook.

the mastergoat (/member/the+mastergoat/) says:

Nice instructable! I honestly prefer it to both

books I found on book binding. But do you

ever press your books or have any insite on

doing so? I am not sure if it is entirely

necissary but it is supposed to help stop any

warping and get bubbles in glue out.

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http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/CJC1QLTG7DYP5NP


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/C1D04O0H19RT8K6




http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/#CJC1QLTG7DYP5NP


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/CSVAP6ZG7DYJZBL




2

(/member/eleraama/)

Apr 3, 2010. 1:34 PM Reply (CSVAP6ZG7DYJZBL)

(/member/AdamVanMeter/)

Oct 13, 2011. 10:45 AM Reply (CHRBUNGGTPK5YMX)

(/member/mbear/)

Sep 3, 2010. 7:01 AM Reply (C06T4GLGDM6U5P2)

(/member/kp77angel/)

Mar 27, 2011. 9:14 AM Reply (CVLXGZXGLL4ZGSW)


I don't press my books, mostly

because I don't have space for a vice

or press, but I frequently use very

large binder clips to keep everything

ogether. I brush on all my glue to

prevent bubbles as well (using a

watered-down glue solution instead of

full-strength PVA helps immensely,

particularly with the cover paper)

AdamVanMeter (/member/AdamVanMeter/) in reply to eleraama

Another substitute for a big old

book vice is to use one or two C-

clamps and two pieces of scrap

wood to spread out the pressure

and prevent marring the book.

And even cheaper and simpler,

you can use long bankers clips

like they sell at some office

supply stores and just clamp the

spine lightly that way.

mbear (/member/mbear/) in reply to eleraama

Instead of a full sized press, look

around for a set of encyclopedias,

phone books, dictionaries, etc. Then

you have a way of putting pressure

on the book without losing a lot of

space in your home.

kp77angel (/member/kp77angel/) says:

Thanks a bunch- been after something like this for a while and you've got me wanting to make one

right now... what to bind... hmmm...!

Xeaden (/member/Xeaden/) says:

Oct 19, 2010. 9:06 PM Reply (COZYYY8GFA3Z1C9)

ow this is a great tutorial! Im going to try making one! My only suggestion would be, if possible,



http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/#CSVAP6ZG7DYJZBL


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/#CSVAP6ZG7DYJZBL


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/#CJC1QLTG7DYP5NP


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/CVLXGZXGLL4ZGSW


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/C06T4GLGDM6U5P2


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/CHRBUNGGTPK5YMX


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/CSVAP6ZG7DYJZBL


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/COZYYY8GFA3Z1C9




(/member/Xeaden/)

(/member/jdc187/)

Aug 29, 2009. 8:46 PM Reply (C9GF2UAFYYNDG6X)

2

(/member/eleraama/)

Apr 3, 2010. 1:36 PM Reply (CBWDFQQG7DYJZCP)

1

(/member/sugarfuss/)

Jan 31, 2009. 5:20 AM Reply (CENC0ECFQJZNWPW)

2

(/member/eleraama/)

Jan 31, 2009. 1:57 PM Reply (CYF4SYEFQJZHTKF)

even more pictures! Im a visual learner, so its better :)


im a litt le lost did you trim the head st rips or are they under the cover. also for those of you that want

a seemles look for the cover try covering the whole thing with a cloth of your choice after you put it

ogether but befor you glue the pages to the cover

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to jdc187

I apologise for not replying to this

earlier, but in case someone else

has the same question, the head

*must* be glued to the board for the

book to stay together. The cloth

placed on the binding is there to

make the binding stay together and

remain flexible, not to keep the

covers on.

sugarfuss (/member/sugarfuss/) says:

I do love this tutorial. I made my first dummy book last night, and it did work out quite well. Instead of

using two different coloured materials for the front I used only one big piece of paper which gives the

book a nice even look. Just as an idea for further projects :)

eleraama (/member/eleraama/) (author) in reply to sugarfuss

I usually use patterned papers for the

covers, and s ince there's no

patterned binding cloth, it ends up

looking like the one in this picture.

hen you say one big piece of

paper, are you using paper for the

actual spine?

sugarfuss (/member/sugarfuss/) in reply to eleraama

Feb 1, 2009. 11:56 AM Reply (C1ZF2LWFQMXERD8)

what I do is I get some card for the spine and stick it on there like you discribed, just to

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/#CYF4SYEFQJZHTKF

http://www.instructables.com/member/sugarfuss/

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/#CENC0ECFQJZNWPW



http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/#C9GF2UAFYYNDG6X



http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/CYF4SYEFQJZHTKF


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/CENC0ECFQJZNWPW


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/CBWDFQQG7DYJZCP


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/C9GF2UAFYYNDG6X



http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-bind-a-book/step10/Admire/C1ZF2LWFQMXERD8




1

(/member/sugarfuss/)

(/member/Iri/)

Mar 24, 2007. 5:19 PM Reply (EHK44SAPICEZIXD15B)

make the whole thing more stable. and then two pieces of card for the covers, both a big

bigger than the size of the book. then I measure the whole thing, including the spine and cut

he paper this size, leaving about 1 inch on each s ide. before I stick the two cover card

pieces on the paper I measure the width of the spine plus the width of the cardboard times

wo and leave that space in between the two card pieces and then stick them on. this way

he book closes nicely. you know what, I think I'll be making a tutorial soon as well. for the

cover alternative :) otherwise I'll just send you some pictures of it if you want to

Iri (/member/Iri/) says:

your tutorial here was very informative and creative! Thank you very much! :)

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