Full-service travel planning is available to subscribers at (800) 375-4685 or reservations@andrewharper.com.For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email aharper@andrewharper.com.

T R AV E L I NG T H E WOR L D I N SE A RCH OF T RU LY E NCH A N T I NG P L ACE S

APRIL 2016 | Our 37th Year andrewharper.com

C OV E R P H OTO G R A P H

The serene pool at Belmond Governor’s Residence in Yangon / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

T H I S M O N T H

A New Era BeginsFrom Yangon, we traveled north to Bagan, Mandalay and the Himalayan foothills, before relaxing beside the Andaman Sea. ...............1-7

Yangon’s Colonial Heritage ..............................3Myanmar’s Ethnic Mosaic ................................4What’s in a Name? ................................................6Ayeyarwady Riverboats ................................... 7

Online: Touring Itinerary, Shwedagon Pagoda, Inle Lake and Bookshelf

Bordeaux OpeningsTwo small independent hotels provide fine new choices for visitors to this gracious city. .... 8-10

Les Sources de Caudalie Update .....................9Favorite Restaurants .....................................11Wine Bars .....................................................11

Find video and more photographs of our trips at andrewharper.com/hideaway-report

Myanmar was isolated from the

rest of the world for nearly half

a century. When I first visited

the country in the 1980s, tourists could

obtain a visa for a maximum of seven days,

and tour groups were shadowed, fairly

blatantly, by the secret police. A paranoid

military junta governed the country from

1962 until 2011, when strongman Gen.

Than Shwe finally stepped down in favor

of a milder-mannered former general,

Thein Sein, to clear a path to some form

of civilian government.

Last year, Aung San Suu Kyi duly

won an electoral landslide. At the time

of writing, a full political settlement has

yet to be agreed, but many sanctions

have been lifted, and President Barack

Obama and then-Secretary of State

Hillary Clinton have included Myanmar

on travel itineraries. The number of

American visitors is increasing rapidly.

Of course, the experience of a land

frozen in amber is a big part of Myanmar’s

appeal. Yangon bears little resemblance

to modern Asian cities like Bangkok,

Singapore or Hong Kong. The grand brick

buildings of its colonial heart remain

largely untouched and gently decaying.

Seen from a boat on the Yangon River

the most prominent landmark remains

the golden spire of the Shwedagon, an

ancient pagoda that is a focus for both

national identity and Buddhist devotion.

A country that has remained substan-

tially unchanged since the 1960s may

be romantic, but there are obvious

downsides. The purpose of my recent

trip was to see whether Myanmar’s new

economic and political circumstances

The Changing Face of MyanmarH OT E L D I S C OV E R I E S , G O L D E N PAG O DA S , T R O P I CA L B E AC H E S

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2 HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016

S o u t h

C h i n a

S e a

P A C I F I CO C E A N

A n d a m a n

S e a

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o f

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SUMATRA BORNEO

JAVA

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0 275 MI

0 275 KM

4 H

RS

2.5 HRS

CHINA

INDIA

THAILAND

PHILIPPINES

MALAYSIA

MALAYSIA

INDONESIA INDONESIA

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A

CAMBODIA

MYANMAR

BRUNEI

LAOS

VIETNAM

BAN

GLA

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BHUTAN

SINGAPORE

JAKARTA

HONG KONG

YANGON

PHUKET

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25BOROBUDUR

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MOYO ISLAND

27

HAINANISLAND

BAGAN

BINTANISLAND

24

PUTAO

NGAPALI

MANDALAY

NAYPYIDAW

MYEIK

MYEIKARCHIPELAGO

ANDAMANAND NICOBAR

ISLANDS

A y e y a r wa d y R

.

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

renovation and has since found favor

with diplomats and businesspeople, as

well as leisure travelers nostalgic for the

Burma of Kipling. The atrium lobby, with

its columns, rattan furniture, ceiling fans

and inlaid marble floors, is extremely

atmospheric. And the adjoining Strand

Bar, with its teak panels, brass fixtures

and billiards table, remains a favorite of

expatriates, especially during happy hour

on Friday evenings. (The famous house

cocktail, the “Strand Sour,” is a concoc-

tion of Mandalay rum, lime and bitters.)

After a friendly check-in, we were

escorted upstairs and introduced to our

personal butler. Our Executive Suite was

relatively austere, with cream walls, a

polished teak floor, teak headboard, and

framed floral prints. Tall windows looked

across a quiet street to a sidewall of the

Australian Embassy. Modernity had

arrived in the form of air-conditioning,

slow Wi-Fi, an adequate cell phone connec-

tion and an iPhone dock. The marble bath

was sufficiently spacious, but the lighting

was subdued, while the water that initially

flowed into the tub was a sinister shade of

brown. (It ran clear after a while.)

Overall, we were content. True, we

noticed one or two signs of peeling paint

— I have learned recently that The Strand

will close from May to November this year

for refurbishment — and the housekeep-

ing staff had an annoying habit of leaving

the door to their storage cupboard wide

open, treating us to a view of cleaning

products, but in general the atmosphere

was calm and dignified.

The Strand has been restored rather

than converted, so there is no pool, no gym

and only a small Spa Suite. Aside from

nostalgic appeal, the hotel’s chief merit is

its location at the colonial heart of Yangon.

However, it is important to understand

that the setting is uncompromisingly

urban. There are no gardens to provide

a buffer between the hotel and the city;

the view of the Yangon River is blocked

by warehouses lining the waterfront, and

the property faces a multi-lane highway.

Three miles to the northwest, in the

green and tranquil Embassy District,

the Belmond Governor’s Residence

provides a complete contrast. Its main

building is a 1920s teak mansion with

a wraparound porch, surrounded by

gardens and accessible by a covered

walkway across a lotus pond. The hotel

is a refuge, a place to recuperate from

a long flight or to unwind at the end of a

demanding tour. Ceiling fans whir in shad-

owy lounges and the peace is disturbed

only by an occasional splash as a guest

takes a dip in the lovely fan-shaped pool.

The 49 accommodations occupy

four newer buildings, set amid gardens

behind the mansion itself. The rooms tend

to be rather dark, but all are elegantly

furnished in a traditional style and come

with teak floors and expanses of Burmese

silk. Baths provide twin sinks, walk-in

showers and excellent lighting. Even the

Wi-Fi works unexpectedly well.

The main Mandalay Restaurant serves

Burmese cuisine plus familiar interna-

tional dishes. Although the quality of

have yet resulted in improved logistics

and expanded opportunities for Ameri-

can travelers.

Yangon

My journey began at an old haunt,

The Strand, a 31-suite hotel, built in

1901. It reopened in 1993 after a complete

“ The Governor’s Residence is a refuge from the city, a place to recuperate from a long flight or to unwind at the end of a demanding tour.

Shwedagon Pagoda in YangonExterior and our bedroom at Belmond Governor’s Residence

APRIL 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3

SOME ASIAN CITIES have chosen to preserve the buildings erected during their colonial periods. These are viewed as remnants of a long-vanished era, aspects of history that can now be appreciated for their architectural quality or utility. Elsewhere there is little or no reverence for the past, and Victorian structures are routinely torn down to make way for undistinguished concrete towers. Yangon now has this choice to make. The city was planned by the British in 1852, and its colonial core is virtually as it was at independence in 1948, with an array of grand brick buildings laid out in a grid, some relatively well-preserved, some in fairly advanced stages of decay. Pressure for rapid development is intense. The Yangon Heritage Trust was established in 2012 by Harvard-educated architect Dr. Thant Myint-U. It is involved in urban heritage planning as well as specific conservation projects. The YHT organizes daily walking tours of downtown Yangon, which I strongly recommend; many of them start at the YHT’s office on lower Pansodan Street. yangonheritagetrust.org

Colonial Heritage

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

the food was high and the staff proved

extremely polite and friendly, the service

during our stay was exasperatingly slow at

times. Otherwise, the hotel’s chief amenity

is The Governor’s Oasis spa.

Myanmar is a large country that

extends about 1,250 miles from the

Himalayas to the tropical Myeik Archipel-

ago along the western coast of the Malay

Peninsula. Much of it is extremely remote

and receives few, if any, visitors. For now

most travelers follow a fairly predictable

itinerary. Nearly all the roads are poor,

and the main railway line from Yangon

to Mandalay is ill maintained. Until such

time as the infrastructure is radically

improved, the only practical way to travel

around is by plane.

Twenty years ago, Burmese aviation

had a notorious reputation and barely a

monsoon season passed without one of

the elderly Fokker turboprops operated

by the state-run airline disappearing

abruptly from radar screens. Happily,

there are now several private airlines,

with modern ATR 72 turboprops and

Airbus A320 jets. Although the equipment

is new, air travel still has two principal

drawbacks: The planes are usually full

(with little room for hand baggage) and

there are no Business Class seats.

Bagan

Our uneventful flight to Bagan lasted

80 minutes, and for much of the way

we flew north, parallel to the 1,350-mile

Ayeyarwady River. Bagan had about

200,000 inhabitants and 10,000 Buddhist

temples before its destruction at the hands

of the Mongol Kublai Khan in the late 13th

century. Its wooden structures disap-

peared, but many of the brick pagodas

survived. Today, around 2,200 remain,

surrounded by quiet fields.

Three local properties are sufficiently

comfortable for Harper subscribers.

The Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary

Resort has well-tended grounds that

slope down to the Ayeyarwady, a large

open-air swimming pool and a spa. Most

of the accommodations do not make the

cut. The furnishings are simple and the

baths are old-fashioned. However, the

eight suites within villas close to the river

are worthy of serious consideration. These

are spacious and tranquil, with expanses

of teak, local artwork and modern baths.

The most obviously luxurious of

Bagan’s hotels is the Aureum Palace. Set

amid 27 acres of landscaped gardens, it

comprises a series of traditional buildings,

including a spectacular lobby pavilion

with a steeply pitched roof. A sizable

pool comes with a backdrop of ancient

pagodas. The Villa accommodations

are extremely attractive. The lake-view

Jasmine Villas, for example, come with

Jacuzzi tubs and private terraces over-

looking the serene waters of a small lake.

At times the Aureum Palace feels like

a property more suited to upscale tour

groups than individual travelers, but it is

certainly a comfortable and convenient

base from which to explore.

A R C H I T EC T U R E

Our room at Bagan Lodge Infinity pool at Aureum Palace / ALL TOP PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Repurposed colonial building, Yangon

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4 HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016

MYANMAR HAS NO FEWER than 135 ethnic groups, grouped into eight “major national races.” The Bamar, from whom the country’s former name, Burma, is derived, account for about 70 percent of the total population. The Bamar live predominantly in the central Ayeyarwady River Valley. Their distant origin is revealed by Burmese, the national language, which is closely related to Tibetan. When Gen. Ne Win seized power in a 1962 coup d’état, he tore up the post-independence Constitution and tried to impose the will of the Burmese military and its extreme socialist ideology on the coun-try’s disparate peoples. As a result, elements of the Shan, the Kayin and the Kachin have been at war with the central government ever since, with sizable areas of the north and east still under rebel control. The harmonious coexistence of Myanmar’s ethnic groups, within some form of federal system, is a crucial priority for the new administration of Aung San Suu Kyi.

Myanmar’s Mosaic

C U LT U R E sounds more appealing, Bagan Lodge

should be your choice.

The one activity at Bagan that every-

one tells you not to miss is the dawn flight

by hot air balloon, so we duly rose at 5 a.m.

and made our way through the blackness

to the waiting bus. Alas, although the

starry sky was clear, the winds at altitude

were too strong for safety and air traffic

controllers forbade us to take off.

We did manage to explore the archae-

ological preservation zone by car and on

foot. (If you are feeling energetic, you may

wish to rent bicycles.) A knowledgeable

private guide is crucial for this, as there

are dozens of major monuments, many

of them linked only by obscure tracks.

Given the increasing number of visitors,

it is advisable to stipulate that you prefer

to see quieter, more remote pagodas, and

to visit the best-known ones outside of the

peak times, which are just after dawn and

before sunset.

Mandalay

R iverboats generally take five days to

sail upriver from Bagan to Manda-

lay, but the flight lasts just 25 minutes.

Mandalay is Myanmar’s second city,

with a population of about 1.3 million.

In the 19th century it was the seat of the

last rulers of independent Burma, King

Mindon and King Thibaw. Alas, their

great palace, enclosed by a huge moat

and immense walls, was destroyed by

bombing during World War II. Almost none

of the original structures survived and

On this trip I had opted to stay at

Bagan Lodge, a property of 82 villa rooms

and four suites that opened in late 2013.

The property made an uninspiring first

impression, thanks to an entrance set

surprisingly close to the edge of a dusty

road. Once inside, however, we discovered

a striking open-air lobby, a pleasant bar

and an attractive restaurant, all over-

looking a 65-foot swimming pool. The

accommodations are contained within

a series of brick bungalows, shaded by

stylish tented roofs, which are spread

across peaceful and extensive grounds.

Pathways meander among flowerbeds

bright with tropical flowers. Although

Bagan Lodge is quite a sizable resort, it

doesn’t feel like one.

Our air-conditioned Villa Room had

wooden floors, rattan furniture and a

well-appointed bath that was sufficiently

spacious for a couple to coexist in comfort.

French doors opened onto a veranda

with two loungers. Although this lacked

privacy, it proved to be a pleasant place

to relax with a book, lulled by the trickle

of a nearby fountain. We didn’t bother to

watch television, but we did check email

and the Wi-Fi worked without a hitch.

During our stay we enjoyed well-

prepared Asian food, served by consis-

tently friendly and obliging staff, and one

afternoon we spent a pleasant interlude

in the spa. If you are likely to prefer a

full-service resort with imposing archi-

tecture and a memorable setting, opt for

the Aureum Palace. On the other hand,

if a peaceful, low-key boutique property

View from Executive Suite at Mandalay Hill Resort HotelPanorama of Bagan, seen from the 11th-century Shwesandaw Pagoda

Women of the Lisu hill tribe in traditional dress

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APRIL 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5

the site is like a vast empty square at the

heart of the city.

Although Mandalay itself is a sprawl-

ing and dusty place, it stands amid the

remnants of four royal capitals spanning

500 years of Burmese history. And despite

being a commercial city, with strong

links to the southern Chinese province

of Yunnan, it is also a center of Buddhist

studies, with numerous monasteries and

pagodas scattered across Mandalay Hill

and nearby Sagaing Hill on the opposite

bank of the Ayeyarwady.

In an attempt to find a hideaway of

some kind, I had chosen to stay initially

at Hotel by the Red Canal, a 25-room

property close to Mandalay Palace.

Unfortunately, it did not live up to expec-

tations. Although the public areas are

quite attractive, with expanses of natural

wood and local artwork, our room and

bath were both too small for comfort;

the Wi-Fi was painfully slow and unreli-

able; and the restaurant served almost

exclusively Indian cuisine. The staff were

friendly and the gardens were pretty, but

the kidney-shaped pool was cramped. In

addition, the surrounding area struck me

as scruffy and unappealing.

An alternative is provided by the

206-room Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel.

Although this is an eight-story property,

popular with businesspeople as well

as tourists, it has much to recommend

it, including proximity to the Buddhist

sites of Mandalay Hill, and spectacular

views of monasteries and pagodas from

the higher floors. On arrival, we were

impressed both by the dramatic lobby

with its massive gilded columns and the

charm and efficiency of the reception

staff. After check-in, we were taken on a

tour. At the rear of the main hotel building

are extensive grounds, including tennis

courts, a spa and a splendid swimming

pool, surrounded by teak pavilions in

imitation of the old palace architecture.

We were immediately struck by the feel-

ing of calm and space.

Only the higher categories of rooms

and suites should be considered. We had

opted for an Executive Suite, with wooden

floors, gilded furniture, a richly patterned

Chinese carpet, a scarlet sofa and framed

embroidery. The separate bedroom had

paneled walls and fabrics in muted shades

of burgundy and gold. The adjoining bath

was modern, spacious and well-appointed,

and a small balcony afforded a spectacu-

lar view of Mandalay Hill.

Although the Mandalay Hill Resort is

not typical of the hotels that I generally

recommend, it provides an acceptable-

base from which to tour.

Putao

S ince 1962, parts of northern and

eastern Myanmar have been under

the effective control of rebel groups and

off-limits to the Burmese army, never

mind foreign visitors. However, I did

make one foray from the beaten tourist

path into a remote area of Kachin State.

Ninety minutes by plane from Mandalay,

the town of Putao is within sight of 19,300-

foot Hkakabo Razi, the highest mountain

in Southeast Asia.

The objective of our journey was

Malikha Lodge, an eco-resort perched

on a forested hillside above the Nam Long

River, and designed by Jean-Michel Gathy,

an architect who has worked on no fewer

than seven Aman resorts. The main lodge

building proved to be an expansive open-

plan space, with a steeply pitched roof, a

central bar, a fire pit and walls lined with

artifacts made by the Lisu and Rawang

tribal peoples. A wall of glass doors opened

onto an outdoor deck, with a second fire

pit, built-in sofas and a spellbinding view

upriver toward the mountains. Alas, the

day of our arrival was cloudy, so no peaks

were visible. (The best months for a visit

are November and February; December

and January are usually clear, but the

nights are often cold. The monsoon season

begins in May.)

Guests at Malikha Lodge are housed

within individual cottages, surrounded by

private gardens and sheltered by bamboo

trees. The interior design is as striking

as might be expected from an architect

of international renown. Its focal point is

a huge teak tub, about four feet in diam-

eter. Nearby is a woodburning stove. A

king-size bed, backed by a headboard

covered with ethnic fabrics, takes up

one side of the space, while opposite are

two wooden sinks and a walk-in shower.

Outside we discovered a peaceful terrace

with a daybed, plus a small private pavil-

ion overlooking the river. Aesthetically,

our cottage was a triumph. In practice, it

Our cottage and the main lounge deck at Malikha Lodge / ALL TOP PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016

H OT E L S AT A G L A N C E

The Strand A90L I K E Atmospheric public areas; obliging staff; conve-nient location for sightseeing in the colonial district. D IS L I K E Our poorly lit bath; proximity to busy road. G O O D TO K N OW Yangon’s best-known restaurant, Monsoon, is a short walk away. Superior Suite, $400; Deluxe Suite, $450. 92 Strand Road, Yangon. Tel. (95) 1-243-377. hotelthestrand.com

Belmond Governor’s Residence A93L I K E The gracious colonial main hotel building; exceptionally peaceful gardens.D IS L I K E Some rooms can be dark; slow service in the restaurants.G O O D TO K N OW Room 111 is generally considered the best in the hotel, with windows on two sides and a lovely view over the pool and gardens. Deluxe Garden View Room, $600; Junior Suite, $780. 35 Taw Win Road, Dagon Township, Yangon. Tel. (95) 1-229-860. governorsresidence.com

Ngapali Bay Villas & Spa A92L I K E Exceptionally spacious and stylish villas; the magnificent beach; the tranquil atmosphere.D IS L I K E The main swimming pool is poorly situated and lacks a view of the sea.G O O D TO K N OW Boat trips take guests to offshore islands for secluded beaches and superior snorkeling.Deluxe Sea View Villa, $350; Deluxe Beachfront Villa, $420. Myapyin Village, Ngapali, Thandwe. Tel. (95) 4-342-301. ngapalibay.com

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. The following were not up to my standards; more information is available online.

Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort, Bagan (87)Aureum Palace, Bagan (89)Bagan Lodge, Bagan (89)Hotel by the Red Canal, Mandalay (86)Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel, Mandalay (89)Malikha Lodge, Putao (88)

local technology is too basic to permit

credit card transactions. It is important

to realize that this is a stylish mountain

lodge, but not a sophisticated eco-resort

of an international caliber.

Ngapali

One remote region of Myanmar that

is certain to see a rapid increase in

foreign visitors is the Myeik Archipelago

in the far south. For now, however, the best

place to relax on the beach is Ngapali, on

the country’s west coast.

It is an hour’s flight from Yangon to

Thandwe. Apparently there are plans to

expand the airport to allow international

flights and large jets, but for now it is

suitable only for turboprop aircraft. As

a result the nearby coastline remains

unspoiled and the hotels are mostly

low-rise and hidden among the palms.

The drive to Ngapali Bay Villas & Spa

took just 20 minutes, along a quiet road,

past small shops, casual restaurants and

modest village houses.

Our self-contained thatched villa was

exceptionally spacious and elegant, with

a 20-foot ceiling, magnificent wooden

floors and stylish teak furniture, including

a huge, irresistible daybed. Contempo-

rary Burmese paintings and traditional

had drawbacks. The spectacular tub was

so large that the hot water ran out when

it was only half full, and the stove was

woefully inadequate to heat the cottage

on a chilly January night.

Other aspects of the resort were more

satisfactory. The Burmese set dinner

menu was excellent. On our first evening

we enjoyed an extensive variety of soups,

curries and salads, all accompanied by

Burmese red wine — a shiraz-tempra-

nillo from the Red Mountain Estate in

the eastern Shan State — which proved

unexpectedly good. And outdoor activities

were organized with exemplary profes-

sionalism by two expatriate Nepalis.

Most guests at Malikha Lodge take a

gentle rafting trip on the river and hike

through the picturesque countryside.

Many disagreeable aspects of the modern

world have yet to reach Putao, so village

compounds are free of plastic garbage and

the houses are still constructed chiefly

from bamboo. Those inclined to be more

adventurous can embark on longer treks,

or explore the region by mountain bike.

Perhaps because our expectations

had been too high, we were slightly

disappointed by Malikha Lodge. For

three days we were unable to get a Wi-Fi

connection, and on departure we found

ourselves obliged to pay with cash as the

BURMA BECAME MYANMAR in 1989, and the change has been controversial ever since. Many governments — including that of the United States — refused to acknowledge the right of the military junta to make such a decision. The year before had seen thousands of pro-democracy protesters killed when a popular uprising was crushed. Since the political thaw in 2011, atti-tudes have softened. The military regime said the name changes were intended to erase surviving traces of colonialism. But the country had had a formal literary name (Myanma) and a popular colloquial one (Bama) long before the British settled for a version of the latter. Apparently, many of the new English-language names bear a closer resemblance to the Burmese pronuncia-tion. However, it would appear that the junta was motivated at least in part by a desire to stamp its authority on the country.

What’s in a Name?

Seafood spring rolls and coconut-based desserts at Ngapali Bay Villas & Spa / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Unspoiled beach and our bedroom at Ngapali Bay Villas & Spa / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

APRIL 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7

Given Myanmar’s poor transport infrastructure, one of the most pleasant and

rewarding ways to see the country is aboard a luxury riverboat. This has been

a favorite trip of Hideaway Report readers for many years. Aside from the

reliable level of comfort, the leading riverboats provide well-organized excursions to

pagodas, monasteries and culturally significant sites, allowing passengers to experi-

ence relatively remote and unspoiled areas of the country that would otherwise be

inaccessible. Of course, just watching the life of the river from the observation deck

is endlessly diverting. The usual journey on the Ayeyarwady River takes four days/

three nights to travel the 128 nautical miles downstream from Mandalay to Bagan,

or five days/four nights to sail upstream from Bagan to Mandalay. The Belmond

Road to Mandalay regularly plies this route, accommodating up to 82 guests in

either “State” or slightly smaller “Deluxe” cabins, both with en suite baths. Ameni-

ties include a fine-dining

restaurant, a more casual

bar/grill, a small swim-

ming pool and a fitness

center and spa. This year

a new boat came into

service, operated by The

Strand hotel in Yangon.

The R.V. Strand accom-

modates 54 passengers in

four categories of cabins

and suites . A l l come

with full-length sliding

windows, Juliet balconies

and butler service. For

those who wish to follow

a more adventurous itin-

erary, or simply to spend

longer on the river, I recommend two other vessels. The Belmond Orcaella takes

up to 50 passengers on nine-day cruises from Yangon to Bagan, 12-day journeys

on the Ayeyarwady as far north as Bhamo in Kachin State (about 40 miles from the

border with China), and 13-day trips on the Chindwin River, the main tributary of the

Ayeyarwady (with which it merges south of Mandalay). An alternative is provided

by the stylish and intimate Sanctuary Ananda, which has 20 spacious suites, all

with balconies. Cruises include a 12-day journey from Yangon to Mandalay, an

11-day trip on the Chindwin and a 12-day exploration of the upper Ayeyarwady. H

Buddhist sculptures helped to create a

strong sense of place. One wall was almost

entirely glass, and huge windows granted

views of a long beach of pale golden

sand. The enormous adjoining bath was

appointed with twin copper sinks, a walk-

in shower and a huge teak tub. The only

discordant note was the outdoor shower,

which for some extraordinary reason

contained a protruding air-conditioning

unit. Some villas have private pools; ours

did not, but we scarcely felt deprived,

not least because the warm, clear sea

was just steps away. (The main hotel

pool is pretty, but poorly situated amid

vegetation and hence lacking a view of

the ocean.) Even the Wi-Fi functioned

without a hitch.

A short walk away, the Tamarind

restaurant has a glorious outdoor terrace,

where we would sit for hours, gazing at

the glinting water. As might be expected,

the menu specializes in seafood. The

other chief amenity at the resort is the

Frangipani Spa.

Myanmar is obviously at a time

of transition and the future is hard to

discern. I suspect that Ngapali’s days as a

refuge from the world may be numbered,

and Bagan will soon be overrun with visi-

tors, much like Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

But new destinations will emerge, because

Myanmar’s potential is immense. For now,

the best hotels tend to be comfortable

rather than exceptional, and I strongly

recommend that any itinerary should

still find space for a riverboat trip on

the Ayeyarwady. I left Myanmar with my

affection for its inhabitants increased.

Few countries possess such attractive,

easy-going and hospitable people. We can

only hope that the miseries of military

rule are finally at an end. H

“ This year a new boat came into service, operated by The Strand hotel in Yangon.

Deck of the R.V. Strand / © THANAPORN LABOUP

Sanctuary Ananda / © KEN HAYDEN PHOTOGRAPHY/SANCTUARY RETREATS

Ayeyarwady Riverboats

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT APRIL 2016

N E W B O U T I Q U E H OT E L S A N D S T E L L A R C U I S I N E

The Sophisticated Pleasures of Bordeaux

The French call Bordeaux “the pearl of the Aquitaine,” and few places in the

world enjoy a more accurate sobriquet than this elegant city on the Garonne

River in southwestern France. Arguably the capital of the global wine trade,

Bordeaux hosts the world’s most prestigious annual wine fair, Vinexpo, and has an

annual regional turnover from the wine business of nearly $16 billion.

The city has recently re-emerged from a 20-year renovation of the majestic

18th-century limestone buildings that compose its core. These include the Place

de la Bourse — the former stock exchange designed by King Louis XV’s architect,

Ange-Jacques Gabriel — the opera house and long stretches of neoclassical façades.

Currently three hours from Paris by train,

Bordeaux will be just two hours away with

a new TGV (high-speed train) route that

is scheduled to open in 2017.

For a city that hosts a stream of

international wine buyers, Bordeaux has

long had a curiously undistinguished

roster of hotels. The InterContinental

Bordeaux — Le Grand Hôtel — where

British three-star chef Gordon Ramsay

has been appointed to oversee Le Pressoir

d’Argent restaurant — is still the best

full-service property, but the city has

lacked the small charming hotels that are

commonly found in other major French

cities. This has begun to change.

Winemaker Bernard Magrez, who

owns four Grands Crus Classés

châteaux in the Bordelais (plus vineyards

all over the world), located the six-room

La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez

hotel in a residential neighborhood

because he wanted to create a showcase

for the distinctive Bordeaux lifestyle and

also to open a restaurant in cooperation

with chef Joël Robuchon, a friend. So

he acquired a handsome but rundown

18th-century mansion across the street

from his Institut Culturel Bernard Magrez,

where his superb collection of contem-

porary art and photography is open to

F r a n c eNational CapitalsAdministrative CapitalsCities 3,000,000+Cities 900,000-2,999,999

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1 La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez Yndo Hôtel Intercontinental Bordeaux — Le Grand Hôtel*

2 Les Sources de Caudalie*

3 Les Prés d’Eugénie*

4 L’Hostellerie de Plaisance*

5 Château Cordeillan-Bages*

6 Château de Mirambeau*

* Previously Recommended

Twilight at Place de la Bourse

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APRIL 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9

the public. Interior designer Frédérique

Fournier has given the hotel an elegant

Napoleon III-style décor, with a specific

nod to the year 1855, when the Bordeaux

Grand Cru wines were first classified.

On arrival, the property seemed more

like a guesthouse than a hotel. Following

a cool greeting from the young woman at

the reception desk, we carried our own

bags upstairs. Our room was immediately

appealing, however, with its high ceiling,

floral-pattern carpet and silk taffeta

fabrics from the eminent French textile

house Braquenié. Well-lit and sufficiently

spacious, it came equipped with a writing

desk and an illy coffee machine. The bath

provided Hermès toiletries — including

colognes for men and women — a heated

limestone floor, double vanities and a

separate rainfall shower.

Perhaps the chief advantage of a

stay at La Grande Maison is the oppor-

tunity to eat in Robuchon’s outstanding

restaurant downstairs without being

mindful of an after-dinner drive or

fretting about a taxi. After a flute of

Champagne in the bar, we were ushered

to our table in one of the three elegant

dining rooms, decorated with a Baccarat

crystal chandelier and furnished with

wood-framed armchairs at tables set

with heavy white tablecloths, silver and

crystal. That evening, the majority of the

guests were French-speaking, and several

of the well-dressed diners appeared

to be wine merchants.

The best way to appreciate Robuchon’s

talent is to try one of the tasting menus. We

began with an elegant dish of crab aspic

and a medallion of crab meat, topped

with caviar from the Sologne region of

France. Next came a choice of four trios of

tasting plates, which featured miniature

versions of some of Robuchon’s most

famous dishes. For example, one sampler

included a single truffled langoustine

with green cabbage; a scallop with an

herbal jus, olive oil and squid’s ink

farfalle pasta; and a tiny goat-cheese-

Exciting News from a Preferred Spa Retreat

B O R D E L A I S C L A S S I C U P DAT E

One of my favorite country escapes from Bordeaux remains Les Sources de

Caudalie, located on the Château Smith Haut Lafitte wine estate 20 minutes

south of the city. This stylish spa hotel specializes in treatments with Caudalie

products, which are derived from grapes and grape-seed oil. La Grand’Vigne, the

hotel’s gastronomic restaurant, recently won a second Michelin star. In 2014,

the property opened 12 new suites with a rustic-chic style inspired by the oyster

fishermen’s huts at nearby Cap Ferret, plus a new indoor pool and a wine bar,

Rouge, that serves many of the estate’s best wines by the glass. L’Ile aux Oiseaux,

the hotel’s most romantic suite, has also been redecorated by designer Delphine

Manivet, a well-known Parisian wedding-dress designer. H

“ We began with an elegant dish of crab aspic and a medallion of crab meat, topped with caviar from the Sologne region of France.

Entrance, Contemplation Suite and Restaurant Joël Robuchon at La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez

Le Village des Pêcheurs (Fishermen’s Village) and indoor pool at Les Sources de Caudalie

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Service throughout was gracious, precise

and noticeably formal.

Ultimately, La Grande Maison is a

pleasant and sophisticated small hotel

eminently suitable for a short visit to

Bordeaux, so long as you don’t mind

the less-than-central location and don’t

require amenities such as a spa or a

gym. Chatting with several hotel guests

over a Cognac in the bar after dinner, we

discovered that the hotel has become a

popular weekend getaway for couples

from London and Switzerland, so it is

advisable to book both your room and

dinner as far in advance as possible.

The other new small independent

hotel in Bordeaux is the 12-room

Yndō Hôtel , set within a 19th-century

townhouse at the heart of the city. The

property offers a variety of amenities

rarely found in hotels of this size, includ-

ing 24-hour room service and air-condi-

tioning. The project of seasoned hotelier

Agnès Guiot du Doignon, this beautifully

renovated property is a fine choice for

fans of contemporary design, since the

rooms come with furniture from Edra

and are accessorized with Louis Poulsen

lamps and modern Murano chandeliers by

Vistosi. The contrasts between the care-

fully restored 19th-century paneling and

the modern décor are flawlessly executed.

Among the five room categories, I

recommend the So Chic Suites. Ours was

supremely comfortable and came with

a king-size bed, two velvet tub chairs,

a Lavazza coffee machine and an iPad.

A spacious white-marble bath provided

Bulgari amenities and separate tub and

shower. Light meals are served upon

request, and wine tastings can be orga-

nized. Service at the Yndō proved charm-

ing and perfectly bilingual throughout.

In short, both La Grande Maison

and Yndō are excellent new options for

travelers who prefer distinctive hideaway

hotels with an abundance of individual

character. H

d’Alos, the best fromager in Bordeaux,

and the menu concluded with four small

desserts, including a caramel soufflé with

citrus-fruit sorbet. An à la carte menu

is also available with many dishes for

two, including roasted guinea hen and

a veal chop, both of which are carved

tableside. A predictably outstanding wine

list features all the Grands Crus Classés.

La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez A94L I K E Comfortable and beautifully decorated rooms; superb restaurant. D IS L I K E The slightly chilly style of hos- pitality; the €10 parking fee, which seemed cheeseparing given stiff room rates and the difficulty of finding parking elsewhere. G O O D TO K N OW The hotel can arrange wine tastings and tours of Bernard Magrez’s châteaux; see luxurywineexperience.com for more information. Superior Room, $450; Prestige Room, $590. 10 Rue Labottière, Bordeaux. Tel. (33) 5-35-38-16-16. lagrandemaison-bordeaux.com

Yndo Hôtel A93L I K E The fine location, excellent service, interesting décor and valet parking. D IS L I K E Room rates are hefty for a French provincial city. G O O D TO K N OW The Jardin Public, a 10-minute walk from the hotel, is a lovely spot for a walk or a run. Crazy Room, $500; So Chic Suite, $670. 108 Rue Abbé de l’Épée, Bordeaux. Tel. (33) 5-56-23-88-88. yndohotelbordeaux.fr

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit andrewharper.com for additional information on these and our six additional recommendations in the Bordeaux region.

“ The project of seasoned hotelier Agnès Guiot du Doignon, this beautifully renovated property is a fine choice for fans of contemporary design.

flavored soufflé with truffle cream. The

main course was a chateaubriand of

beef topped with a large lobe of duck

foie gras — a riff on tournedos Rossini

— that was carved tableside and served

with a reduction of Port, Robuchon’s

famous pommes soufflés, or fine slices

of deep-fried potatoes blown up like

little pillows. Cheeses came from Jean

Exterior, lounge and So Chic Suite at Yndo Hôtel

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APRIL 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11

Restaurants and Bistros

The toughest reservation in Bordeaux right now is La Grande Maison de Bernard

Magrez’s Restaurant Joël Robuchon, which was recently awarded a second

Michelin star. Chef Philippe Etchebest’s new brasserie, Le Quatrième Mur, near

the Opéra National de Bordeaux, also is extremely popular, as is Le Pressoir d’Argent,

Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant at the InterContinental Bordeaux — Le Grand Hôtel.

What has really changed in Bordeaux, however, is the number of excellent bistros

that have opened. This is explained by the fact that young chefs are attracted to the

city by its quality of life, and a new generation of wine merchants now dine out more

often than they eat or entertain at home.

Miles This stylish bistro in the heart of the city is run by a quartet of chefs from

Israel, New Caledonia, Japan and France who met at the Ferrandi cooking school in

Paris. The menu changes regularly but runs to dishes such as monkfish with smoked

chestnut purée, pork loin with vanilla-flavored celery root purée and hibiscus roasted

figs with halva ice cream. 33 Rue du Cancera. Tel. (33) 5-56-81-18-24. restaurantmiles.com

Garopapilles Chef Tanguy Laviale’s contemporary French menu follows the seasons

but offers dishes such as a starter of smoked tuna and duck foie gras, and roasted

Pauillac lamb. 62 Rue Abbé de l’Epée. Tel. (33) 9-72-45-55-36. garopapilles.com

Dan This Asian-inspired restaurant is run by a Franco-Chinese couple who moved

to Bordeaux after living in Hong Kong for eight years. 6 Rue du Cancera. Tel. (33) 5-40-

05-76-91. danbordeaux.com

Le Quatrième Mur Chef Philippe Etchebest, who cooked for many years at L’Hostellerie

de Plaisance in nearby Saint-Emilion, has a hit on his hands with this contemporary

French brasserie near the opera house. It’s difficult to get a reservation, but there’s

seating at the bar, which offers a chance to try dishes such as poached egg with celery

root cream and smoked duck breast, and blanquette de veau with lemongrass. Best

for lunch. 2 Place de la Comédie. Tel. (33) 5-56-02-49-70.

Le Bouchon Bordelais Chef Frédéric Vigouroux’s easygoing bistro attracts a

cosmopolitan crowd with a well-executed menu that runs to dishes such as chilled

pea and watercress soup, duck confit with eggplant and strawberry mousse. 2 Rue

Courbin. Tel. (33) 5-56-44-33-00. bouchon-bordelais.com

Le Pressoir d’Argent Gordon Ramsay The elegant Napoleon III dining rooms on

the first floor of the InterContinental Bordeaux — Le Grand Hôtel recently reopened

with a new chef, Gilad Peled, a young Israeli who previously worked with Gordon

Ramsay in London. Refined dishes such as tartare de boeuf de Bazas with oysters

and caviar, a starter, and turbot in seaweed butter sauce with razorshell clams make

good foils for the excellent wine list. Dinner only. 2-5 Place de la Comédie, Tel. (33)

5-57-30-43-42. ghbordeaux.com H

DESPITE ITS STATUS as one of the world’s great wine capitals — the Bordelais would say their city is the great wine capital — wine bars have only recently become popular in Bordeaux. Happily, now it’s possible to sample some really excellent wines by the glass at a number of stylish and hospitable places. Perhaps the most eagerly awaited debut of the year will be at the dramati-cally designed La Cité du Vin (laciteduvin.com), a multimedia exposition center devoted to the history, geography, geology and art of wine that is scheduled to open in June.

Bar à VinRun by the Bordeaux Wine Council, this stylish wine bar in the heart of the city pours an encyclopedic range of Bordeaux wines and is ideal for either an apéritif or a nightcap. 3 Cours du XXX Juillet. Tel. (33) 5-56-00-43-47. baravin.bordeaux.com

Aux Quatre Coins du VinPopular with a younger crowd, this fashionable stand-up wine bar has a great selection of French and foreign wines, along with open sandwiches and foie gras. Thirty-two wines are offered, and you serve yourself in three different-sized glasses using a magnetic card purchased on arrival. 8 Rue de la Devise. Tel. (33) 5-57-34-37-29. aux4coinsduvin.com

Le Wine BarA perfect choice for a light lunch since they serve excellent cheese and charcuterie plates, this friendly place has a spectacular selection of Pomerol, Margaux and Sauternes by the glass.19 Rue des Bahutiers. Tel. (33) 6-76-00-50-54. lewinebar-bordeaux.com

Wine More TimeThe list changes regularly at this popular wine bar in the heart of the city, but grands crus by the glass are frequently offered at very reasonable prices. 8 Rue Saint-James. Tel. (33) 5-56-52-85-61. winemoretime.blogspot.com

L A N D S CA P E

Wine BarsChef Philippe Etchebest at La Quatrième Mur / © CYRIL BERNARD Le Wine Bar

The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Copy Editor Steve Masters Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu

Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® is a private publication for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. Our commitment to editorial independence is unwavering.

IT WAS WITH EXTREME SADNESS that I learned recently of the death of Sam Beall, the proprietor of Blackberry Farm, a distinguished country house hotel in Tennessee. Beall was killed in a skiing accident at the age of 39, and he leaves behind a wife and five children. His parents purchased Blackberry Farm in 1976 and he took over its management in 2002. In the subsequent 14 years, Beall created what is argu-ably the finest hotel of its kind in America. Spells at the California Culinary Academy and The French Laundry inspired his passion for artisanal food and heirloom ingredients. This informed the delicious “Foothills Cuisine” at Blackberry Farm’s restaurant, The Barn. In 2014, Hideaway Report subscribers voted Blackberry Farm the No. 1 Food and Wine Resort in the United States, and in the most recent update of The Harper Collection I awarded the property a rating of 97. The Hideaway Report is not really a place for an obituary, but in these tragic circumstances, I felt that it would be appropriate to express my respect for Sam Beall’s accomplishments and to extend my condolences to the members of his family. It is they who must now perpetuate his legacy of refined Southern hospitality.

New and NoteworthyAman Onsen ResortFifteen months after the debut of the Aman Tokyo, a second Aman property has

opened in Japan. Amanemu is about 230 miles southwest of the capital on the

picturesque and culturally significant Kii Peninsula. Overlooking a bay devoted to

pearl cultivation, the resort comprises 24 suites and four villas, each with a private

hot-spring pool. This is Aman’s first onsen, or hot-spring resort. Amanemu is also

situated close to one of Japan’s most important Shinto shrines, as well as the Kumano

Kodo pilgrimage trails ( jointly designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO.)

South African Safari AviationTravelers to Tswalu Kalahari, the private game reserve and safari lodge owned by the

Oppenheimer family, will now be able to use the splendid new facilities at Fireblade

Aviation, located at Johannesburg’s international airport and owned by E. Oppen-

heimer & Son. These include day bedrooms, a restaurant and a spa. Fireblade also

offers air charter services, with a fleet of private jets. Of particular interest to safari

travelers, however, is the Pilatus PC-12 NG, a pressurized single-engine aircraft. With

a range of about 1,800 miles and a cruising speed of around 325 mph, it is ideal for

transfers between widely spaced safari camps and lodges.

New Mexico Mansion RestoredIn 1996, Ted Turner purchased the Vermejo Park Ranch in New Mexico — at 590,000

acres it is about three-quarters of the size of Rhode Island — which today offers

fishing, hunting and hiking adventures. The jewel in the crown of Vermejo is Casa

Grande, a mansion built in 1909 for a wealthy Chicago grain trader, William Bartlett.

In June, Casa Grande will reopen after a four-year, multimillion-dollar renovation.

With seven bedrooms — including Turner’s own master suite — and sumptuous

public areas (including a ballroom), it could be ideal for a lavish family get-together

or a wedding.

Faces of Myanmar at the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

April Collection UpdatesVisit andrewharper.com/store/harper-collection/

L A S T LO O K

In Memoriam