I. Certificate 1 II. Acknowledgement 2III. Contents 3IV. Honda history 4V. Honda overview 7VI. H.M.S.I Plant Detail 13VII. Products of HMSI 16

I. Activa 16II. Aviator 18

III. Dio 20IV. CB Shine 22V. Stunner CBF 24

VI. CB Unicorn 26VII. Twister CB 110 28

VIII. CB Unicorn Dazzler 30VIII.

HONDAHISTORY

HONDA is a multinational company which is founded by Late Mr. Soichiro Honda and established by Mr. Hamamatsu (Japan) on 24th Sep. 1948.

Late Mr. Soichiro Honda dreamt of providing people, everywhere in the world an economical means of transportation. He invented better ways of making piston rings and found a company around the idea and began production. Then his company started producing small motorcycles, including one built-in 1949 called D-type dream.

Then he thought of high capacity motorcycles and taking them to racing. So his company made bigger and faster machines, two-, four-, five-, and six- cylinder race bikes and participated in the LSLE of Man TT race (125cc MC class).

Honda began manufacturing motorcycles at its Suzuki factory in 1960. Honda launched its first sports car, the S500 in Japan and entered Formula-1 in 1964.

In 1989, Soichiro Honda became the first Asian to be inducted into U.S. Automotive Hall of Fame. In 1990, Honda wins its fifth consecutive 1st ranking in the J.D. Power Consumer Satisfaction Index. In 1993, founder Soichiro Honda passed away. He dreamt of changing the way people looked at motorcycles and gave us machines that were powerful and fun to ride. Soichiro Honda’s dreams changed the world of motorcycling forever.

Today, Honda is a juggernaut, offering class-leading machines in most every category. 

1906Soichiro Honda is born in Hamamatsu, Japan. His father owns a blacksmith shop that also repairs bicycles. As a young man, Honda is an apprentice in an automotive garage in Tokyo. 

1928Honda returns to Hamamatsu to open his own auto repair shop. Enamored with speed, he builds his own race car. 

1936Honda is injured in an auto racing accident. 

1937He forms a company to manufacture piston rings. After a shaky start (owing mostly to his complete lack of formal training in metallurgy) his company becomes successful. He is a key supplier to Toyota, which starts manufacturing cars at about the same time. 

1946Soichiro Honda sells his piston-ring business. Japan is struggling to regain some semblance of normalcy, after having been bombed flat at the end of WWII. Honda realizes the need for affordable transportation and begins grafting war-surplus two-stroke motors onto bicycles. (The motors had originally been intended for use on portable generators for military radios). 

1948Honda Motor Co. Ltd is incorporated. Soichiro Honda focuses on the engineering side of the business, while financial operations are controlled by Takeo Fujisawa. 

1949The Company produces its first real motorcycle, powered by a 98cc a two-stroke motor. When an employee sees the first one assembled and it is ridden outside the factory, he says, “It’s like a dream.” The name “Dream” was adopted for the bike, officially known as Model D. 

1951Mr. Honda is infuriated by the noise, smell and fumes from the two-stroke motorbikes (including his own) that crowd Japanese city streets. In response, the company creates its first four-stroke motorcycle, the Dream E (146cc). 

1952Despite the fact that he despises such “primitive” power plants, Honda flirts with his original notion of auxiliary motors for bicycles.  

1953The Benly J (4-stroke, 90cc) is released. At least some of these were sold with “Benly” tank-badges, and carried the Honda name on engine cases only. The Benly series also lasted a long time, and ushered in an era of improved performance. They were immediately popular with Japan’s amateur racers.

1961Honda dominates both the 125cc and 250cc classes at the TT. Mike Hailwood wins both races, with Hondas finishing 1st through 5th positions in each case. The Isle of Man Examiner newspaper says simply, “It was a devastating win for the Orient.” 

1963This year, Honda focuses on F-1 car racing, and the motorcycle racing program suffers. Sales of street bikes remain strong, however: the Super Cub is awarded the French Mode Cup; Honda opens its first overseas plant in Belgium; Grey Advertising unveils the famous “You meet the nicest people on a Honda” campaign.

1964Two-stroke motors begin to dominate the smaller-displacement racing classes. In order to remain competitive in the 250cc classes, while still relying on four-stroke motors, Honda produces a six-cylinder 250, the 3RC164.. 

1969Honda unveiled the CB750 at the Tokyo Motor Show in late ’68, but it didn’t hit the market until early ’69. It is impossible to overstate the impact this bike made, as the first modern mass-market four, and the first mass-market bike to come with a disc brake.

1970Honda entered four riders in the Daytona 200, but only one–Dick Mann–finished. The three DNFs were completely overshadowed by Mann’s victory. It was a huge win for Honda in America. That year, the 200 grid also included all-new triples from Triumph and BSA, and the first XR750 Harley-Davidsons.

1993The CBR900RR stuns the sport bike world. Designed by Tadao Baba, the “Fire blade” combines the power of an open-class motorcycle with the weight and handling of a 600. 

1995The radical EXP-2 (two-stroke 400cc) wins its class in the Granada-Dakar rally. The bike is the proof-of-concept for a cleaner burning and more powerful two-stroke engine concept that uses a pivoting “valve” to close the exhaust port. 

2001Valentino Rossi wins the last ever 500cc World Championship on the NSR500 two-stroke. 

2002All change. Or not. Rossi wins the first World Championship in the 990cc Moto GP era, on the five-cylinder four-stroke RC211V. Valentino Rossi wins the last ever 500cc World Championship on the NSR500 two-stroke. 

2004Honda prototypes a motorcycle powered by a fuel cell. 

2006The 50,000,000th Super Cub is sold. 

2007Honda is the first manufacturer to offer a motorcycle with air bag crash protection.

HONDAOVERVIEWPresently Mr. Takeo Fukui is the President of the Honda Motors, Japan.

Currently:- 41ston Fortune 500 Companies 26th on Global most admired Revenue – US $ 54.77 Billion Capital – ¥ 86,067 Million (as of March 31st, 2005) Sales (Result of Fiscal 2005) Consolidated: ¥ 8,650,105 Million Unconsolidated: ¥ 3,489,106 Million 319 Subsidiaries (as of March 31st, 2005) Employees Honda Worldwide – 137,827 (as of March 31st, 2005) Six Operating Regions –

North/Central America South America Afro-Europe Asia & Oceania Japan China

Product Categories – Automobiles Power Products

H.M.S.I. plant Detail:-SR. NO. PARTICULAR DETAIL1. LOCATION INDIA

Approx.45kms. from New Delhi

2. INCORPORATION Aug. 20, 1999

3. EQUITY CAPITAL Rs.300crores (Approx. 7500million Yen)

4. AREA Land Area- 210,000sq.m.Covered Area-85,815sq.m.

5. EMPLOYERS 3729 Associates-Japanes-15- Permanent 63.0%- Temporary 37.0%

6. PRODUCTS Scooter- Activa/Dio/AviatorMotorcycle- Unicorn/Shine/Twister/Dazzler/Unicorn

7. PLANT CAPACITY 900,000 CBU’s per Annum SC-600,000 MC- 300,000

8. INDIGENIZATION 100%

9. DIRECTOR Mr.Y.Aoshima (President & CEO),Mr.H.Nagata (Sr.VP),Mr.Y.Mizutani (Dir.), Mr.H.Iwakami (Dir.) ,Mr.M.Kato (Dir.) , Mr.T.Oyama (ASH) , Mr.M. Takedagawa (HSCI) , Mr.K.Nakazono (HM-J)

Repair & Maintenance of Motorcycle

Maintenance: -

Performing regular maintenance on a motorcycle will improve its performance and longevity, and reduce the risk of breakdowns. The exact schedule for a particular motorcycle will depend on how it is used: its weekly mileage, the weather conditions, road (or off road) surface conditions and so on. Most parts will need attention and possible replacement every year or two; if this is done, however, a motorcycle can be maintained in good working order for decades.

The schedule given here is a starting point for an average bike, assuming daily or weekly use; you will soon adjust this based on your own experience.

Every ride:

1. Check the tyres are inflated (a quick pinch to ensure they are hard generally suffices).

2. Check both wheels will rotate without sticking.

3. Squeeze both brakes to make sure they engage properly (this is especially important if you have been working on the bike and may have disconnected the brake cables).

4. Check for obvious loose parts.

5. Check you have working lights, a lock and a key if you will need them before you return.

6. After the ride, if the moving parts have got muddy or picked up road salt, give the bike a quick hose down. It's much easier doing it now than after it has dried!

(washing with a bike cleaner helps get rid of dried on and hard to get off grime.)

Once a week:

1. Lubricate the chain.

2. Re-inflate the tyres to the correct pressure.

3. Rotate wheels to check that they are in true. Replace any broken spokes - other spokes will break and the wheel will be permanently bent if ridden in this condition.

4. Clean the Air-cleaner with petrol & air pressure And then lubricate the surface with lubricant/Mobil oil.

Quarterly:

1. Check the brakes to ensure they are correctly adjusted, and that the pads are not worn.

2. Check derailleur adjustment.

3. Check screws or bolts holding attachments such as mudguards, racks, bottles etc are tight.

4. Check brake and gear cables for fraying or rusting, and lubricate.

5. Grease seat post. It may not technically be a moving part, but it is not desirable for it to become permanently stuck.

6. Check tyres for signs of wear, bulges or splitting. (replace immediately).

7. Check handlebars are aligned properly with front wheel.

8. Check reflectors (if required) are still attached.

9. Check the chain for wear.

At least every two years:

1. Replace the chain and front or rear sprockets.

2. Complete disassembly, cleaning, and lubricate all moving parts.

3. Check bottom bracket and wheel hubs for excessive play and replace if worn.

4. Check derailleur jockey wheels for wear, replace them if worn. *TIP* If the "teeth" of the jockey wheels or front or rear sprokets look sharp and pointy, Replace. (if rear cassette is worn, you will need to replace chain at the same time).

5. Grease metal-to-metal contact points.

6. Check saddle for splitting, and handlebar grips or tape for perishing or fraying.

7. Check headset; tighten or replace bearings as necessary.

Repair:

Repair is done when any part of bike is broken or damaged. In this we replace/service the effected part. Repairing of some parts is below:

AIR-CLEANER:-

Air cleaners are a real necessity. You are right to clean them and clean them often. You will be recompensed with long engine life for your righteous efforts! I once read a test on how much dirt was needed to ruin an engine. It was almost nothing. Seems the dirt gets imbedded in the soft aluminium of the piston and then just grinds away like sandpaper. Always run your bike with the air cleaner installed.

Most motorcycle air cleaners are one of three types. Oiled foam, oiled fabric, and dry paper.

1. Oiled foam:Oiled foam is very popular with dirt bikes. On Oiled Foam filters the real filter is the

oil. The foam is only a support for the oil. Sort of like a skeleton. You must oil the foam on these filters. If you do not, the filter will not work! To clean them, rinse in solvent several times or until clean. Then

ring them out, and let them dry. Lastly, put on a fair amount of oil and work the oil into the foam with your hands. You can buy special

air filter oil or use regular 30w engine oil. 90w gear oil also works good.

2. Fabric filters:

Fabric filters, have a surgical type of fabric inside a metal mesh. They work very well and seem to flow a lot of air. They use a special oil

you get from the air filter maker (K&N). Clean them with soap and water, let dry, and then re-oil. With care, they last quite a while.

3. Paper filter

Paper filter are used on a lot of street motorcycles. They work good when new and clean. If they get wet, they stop passing air. When they dry out, they usually start working again, but don't flow air as well as before getting wet. The water seems to stick the paper fibers together hurting the air flow. If the bike has been sitting a long time, the paper filters absorb water from the air and this starts to plug them up. While you can clean them somewhat by blowing with compressed air the only real way to clean them is to replace them with a new one.

Felton and Uri

Felton and Uri also make sock type air cleaners. These are especially helpful if the rubber air tube, going from the

carburettor to the air box, is old, rock hard and shrunk. Lots of times, on an old bike, you can't get a new air tube. So take the air box off and put on a sock air cleaner, clamping it on to the end of the carburettor. You might want to make some sort of cover for it to keep water off the foam.

Take good care of your air cleaner. If you don't, sooner or later you will regret it !

GEAR BOX:

Motorcycle engines do not produce all their power at all RPM's. There is very little power at idle and the power goes up as the engine RPM goes up. At a certain RPM, which is different for each engine, the power goes up quickly and continues to increase until it hits the maximum RPM for that engine. This is called the “Power Band ". Generally small, high revving 2/strokes have a narrow power band, requiring lots of gears in the gear box. Large, low revving 4/strokes have a big power band and don't need so many gears.

Any way you go, you need some kind of gear box to keep the engine RPM within it's power band, while providing the bike with a good acceleration, and speed range. While there are lots of styles and types of gear boxes, I think they all seem to boil down to three different crankcase types.

1. 2. 3.

1. Horizontally split: The crankcase has a seam on the horizontal plane.

2. Vertically split: The crankcase has a seam on the vertical plane.

3. Cassette type: The gears are loaded in from one side.

Working & Construction of GEAR BOX: In the motorcycle gearbox there are two shafts. In most of them, the one with the

clutch on the end of it is the main shaft. The other is the countershaft and it has the countershaft sprocket on one end of it. A few have the clutch and counter sprocket on

the same shaft. Some of the gears are fixed and/or machined to the transmission shafts. The other gears slide or spin on these shafts. The gears that slide back and forth

on the shafts have what are called Dogs. These Dogs are knobs of metal that fit into holes in the gears beside them, locking the two gears together. The sliding gears are moved back and forth by Shifter Forks which in turn are moved by a shifter drum. The

Shifter Forks are usually attached to the Shifter Drum or move in a groove machined in the Shifter Drum. This drum is turned or rotated, through different styles of linkages, by the gear Shifter Shaft. As the gears move back and forth they lock the main shaft and counter shaft together thru each set of gears, giving us 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc. A few

use a grooved plate to move the shift forks.

When you pull the gears out, DON'T just dump the gears out on the floor like a sack of potatoes. Pull them out gently, as a unit. On some it is best to pull both shaft, drum and the shift forks together. On others it's best to remove the the shafts that hold the shifter forks and remove them first, then the drum, and then the gear clusters. On some makes the gears are kept on the shafts by circlips. On others, the gears can fall right off. Often there are shims (thin, large washers) on the ends of the shafts. These shims are used to position the gears and take up any side play, so look for them when you pull any shaft out. They tend to stick to the bearings. You may need to clean the part of the counter shaft that is outside the crankcase. You know, where the countershaft sprocket is. Get all that rust and dirt off it, so it will slide on out through the bearing. When disassemble the gear shafts, use a cardboard egg crate to hold the gear parts in the order that you disassemble them. If the transmission wants to jump out of gear, usually second gear, under power, take a good look at both the Dogs and the holes they fit in and the sides of the Shifter Forks for wear. If there is any wear at all on these parts replace them.

If the gear has broken teeth it is a good idea to replace both it and its mate on the other gear shaft. Normally broken teeth make quite a bit of noise. Sometimes, there is a lot of noise, but when you get the gear out nothing looks broken. Look for a bent tooth or a tooth with a bit of debris stuck on it. It could be a bit of steel, aluminium, who knows what, it can still make noise.

ENGINE:

In an engine these things occur as part of a cycle. That cycle is basically this -SUCK, SQUEEZE, BURN, and BLOW. The fuel mixture must be brought into the cylinder -SUCK, compressed -SQUEEZE, ignited -BURN, and

then expelled from the cylinder -BLOW. All reciprocating engines must go through these steps no matter what the design of the engine (two-stroke, four-stroke, whatever).

Four-Stroke: In a Four-Stroke engine the intake valve opens and the piston goes down, sucking the fuel mixture into the cylinder. The intake valve then closes as the piston comes back up squeezing the mixture. Spark now occurs and the burning gases expand, pushing the piston down with lots of power. As the piston comes up again, the exhaust valve opens and the burnt gases are blown out of the engine and the process starts over again.

This is all done in four strokes of the piston.Piston down... Piston up... Piston down... Piston up.

An engine is a machine for converting thermal energy into mechanical energy or power to produce force and motion.

To start any engine, two or Four stroke, you must have Three things.One- A burnable mixture of something. It can be gasoline, starting fluid, carburetor cleaner, shoot, it could be spray deodorant! But it must be able to burn.Two- It must be compressed, that is under compression by the piston. Three- there must be a way to ignite the compressed mixture at the right time.

Two-Stroke: In a Two-Stroke engine the piston goes down, compressing the fuel

mixture under the piston and blowing it into the cylinder. As this mixture blows in it also blows the burnt exhaust gases out. The fuel mixture is blown into the cylinder through passages (Ports) in the cylinder walls. The piston comes up, covering the ports in the cylinder walls and compressing or squeezing the mixture. This also creates a vacuum in the crankcase under the piston, sucking the fuel mixture into the crankcase. The spark then ignites the mixture and the burning gases push the piston down, starting everything again.

This is all done in two strokes of the piston.Piston down... Piston up.“That's all there is to it. There are other engine designs but they are not used much. The rotary engine was used on several makes of motorcycle, but not many were made and they all have been gone for many years.”Parts Of Engine:

Cylinder Head

Filter Carburetor Cylind

er Block

Piston, Piston Pin, Ring

Gasket

Nuts & Bolts

Race Wire

Cam Shaft

Rocker Arm

CARBURETOR:

To get to the jets you will have to take the carbureter off the engine. A shop manual will be very helpful here for float settings and exploded pictures of the carburetor. Take the float bowl off and remove the jets. Sounds so easy don’t it? Sometimes it is, and other times it's a mass of gook. If it is, scrap as much of the gook out as

possible, and boil out the rest with carbureter cleaner. Now don't throw the whole thing in the cleaner, look at it first. Does it have rubber seals on the throttle shafts? Look close... sometimes these seals are hard to see and are not shown in the parts books, meaning you can't get them so you do not want to ruin them. If they are there and you can't get them you will have to scrap and clean the carbureter body carefully by hand and not soak it. Before you remove the air screw, turn it in till it bottoms, counting the turns. When you replace it, set it at this setting to start. Sometimes there is a rubber o-ring and steel washer under the air screw spring. Look for it and if there is one, dig it out with a needle BEFORE you spray carbureter cleaner in there. The air screw may be covered by a plug similar to this one. You will have to remove this plug to get to it. I usually set the air screw about 1 & 1/4 turns out, if I don't have a setting.

When the engine is warm, turn the screw in till the engine stumbles, then out till it stumbles, and leave it at half way in between. Adjust the idle with the throttle stop screw as needed. You will need to remove the Main jet and the Needle jet. The

Carburetor is a device which is use for mixing of the air & fuel Mix in a proper ratio. If it won't start, or only runs with the enrichening lever pulled out, you have one or more jets plugged. Notice I said enrichening lever...most of the motorcycle carburettor have enrichening passages inside the carburettor that, WHEN THE THROTTLE IS CLOSED, provide the rich air/fuel mixture to start the engine. If you open the throttle any at all it cuts this enrichening out of the system. So if you are having trouble starting, and everything looks ok, see if closing the throttle helps. This does not apply to carburettor with a butterfly choke .

Main jet is usually screwed on to the lower end of the Needle jet, locking it into the carbureter. Remove the main jet and tap out the needle jet. Do this very carefully. It can break very easily. Sometimes the needle jet will have an O-ring. Remove the O-ring and soak both main jet and needle jet in carbereter cleaner. When you put it back in there is a pin in the carbureter body that fits in a grove on the needle jet. Make sure they match up. There are only two adjustments that you can make from outside the carbureter. The idle screw ( Throttle stop screw ) adjusts the speed of the idle. The idle air screw adjusts the idle mixture. This is only at idle and does not effect anything above idle. Here is another method to adjust it. Screw the air screw in and out until you get the highest idle speed. Then lower the idle speed with the idle screw and do it again until you get the best idle. The air screw can be located on the right or left side of the carbureter. It can also be on the top or bottom, in the front of the carbureter too! To top it off, if you have a 1980 or newer machine, it may have a cover over it to keep you from messing with it. You will have to drill or pry it out some how. Watch out, it may be illegal for you to do this, depending on where you live.

If you can't get it to idle, or rather the idle stays real high then drops off and dies, check for an air leak at the carbureter manifold. Squirt some gas or starting fluid on the manifold and see if the revs change. If they do, you have a leak. If your valves clearances are too tight, it will also effect the idle. You can make your air /fuel mixture a bit richer or leaner by moving the carburetor needle clip up or down. Move the clip down a notch to raise the needle, to richer the mixture. Move the clip up to lower the needle, to lean out the mixture. The needle is located in the throttle slide.

You should always turn the fuel off. If you don't and the carbureter inlet needle fails, it will fill your crankcase full of gas. Not good. If you have a four stroke, it thins out the oil and parts start to weld together... really not good. If you have a two stroke it will fill up the crankcase with fuel and can cause it to hydraulically lock. But at least it will not overheat the engine. A lot of newer bikes have a fuel petcock with a diaphram that only lets fuel into the carbureter if the engine is running. It operates on vaccume pressure. Normally you have three settings. On, reserve, and Prime. Prime bypasses the diaphram to let fuel into the carbureter after it has set a long time .

Finally, a word on parts. Use only the carbureter manufacturer’s brand of parts. Do not use aftermarket carb kits or parts. Their quality control is lousy (all of them! ) Trust me on this; I speak from way too much experience.

GASKETS:

Gaskets are made to expand just a little when oil hits them. This makes a good, oil tight seal. If your sealing surfaces are smooth and you have a new gasket, you simply do not need gasket cement. A real sign of an amateur is lots of slobbery gasket cement. So do you put the gasket on dry? No, you use plain ordinary wheel bearing grease. I use grease on all new gaskets except the ones that come from the factory with a special coating already put on. The grease serves several functions.

It will hold the gasket in place as you put the two pieces together.

It allows the gasket to move around a bit as you put in the screws.

Always use new gaskets. They are not that expensive. Reusing old gaskets is not a good idea but can be done in an emergency if they are in good condition. Here you can and should use gasket cement. Gaskets come in different thickness. Sometimes the gasket thickness is used to set the side clearance on the shafts that pass through a crankcase. So if you make your own gaskets be sure to match the thickness of the old to the new.

It goes without saying that all of the old gasket must be removed and that you don't want to nick or gouge the metal surface. A big help in this is liquid gasket remover. You can get it in a spray can or in a brush on can. I like the spray. It just seems to work better. Just spray it on and wait awhile. If the gasket is still hard, spray it several times and wait overnight.

BRAKES:

The function of Brake system in a bike is to bring or slow down its motion. The principle of operation is based on the principle of Friction. When a moving element is brought into contact with a stationary element, the motion of the moving element is affected. This happens because of friction force which always acts in the opposite direction of the motion and converts the kinematic energy into heat energy. The magnitude of friction depends upon the type and quality of the surface in contact, the force pressing the two together and the speed of the moving items. Type of brake:-

1. Drum Brake

Drum Brakes are used mostly on the rear wheel these days. If you are working on early 1980s, or earlier, you will find them on the front wheel too. They come in two general types. Single Leading Shoe and Twin (Dual) Leading Shoe.

2. Disc Brake

TIRES & TUBES:I hate changing tires. They are a pain in the rear, or front, as the case may be. I charge way too much money to change a tire or tube in hope that they will take it somewhere else! If you have a tire changing machine, it's real easy. I'm poor. I don't have a machine. I have tire irons, a bad back, and a weak mind. The best way to change a tire or tube is to take it to someone else and have them do it. But you want to do it yourself, don't you? and I'll bet you don't want a hole in the tube either.

There are a number of secrets to changing tires and tubes without putting a hole in the tube.

1. You need the right Tire Irons. 2. Lube of some sort. 3. A breezer tire tool.

4. A bead breaker of some kind. 5. Compressed air (politicians should have no trouble with this!)

6. Something to expand the bead ( if necessary ) and, finally,

7. A little bit of knowledge!

Disc Brakes are used mostly on the front wheel these days. They come in two general types. Hydraulic and Mechanical Disc Brake.

Here is the drill. Let the air out by removing the valve stem with a valve stem tool. Support the wheel. I use a 30 gallon steel oil drum with the top cut out. (It doubles as a trash can!) Break the bead loose on both sides. This can be easy (hand pressure alone) or hard (get the bead breaker out, a big vice will work too). With two the tire irons lever the bead over the rim, and work your way around the rim of the wheel. Most times, I also use a third, little tire iron I have to help out. It has cut outs that fit onto the spokes. Some lube or soapy water will help too. Then pull the tube, if it has one, out. Then lever the other bead off the wheel rim and it is off. Sounds so easy, don’t it... and it can be. Just remember to push the bead opposite the bead you are working on, down into the center of the wheel rim. This allows the bead you are working on to easily slip over the wheel rim. To get the new tire on ... reverse the process! Remember, some tires have a directional arrow. Make sure the arrow, if there is one, is pointed in the direction of the forward rotation of the wheel. Got that? The way it normally spins. Don't install it backwards.

Now comes the fun part. After putting the tube in and aligning the balance mark (light spot) on the tire with the valve stem hole, install the valve stem nut and the valve stem. Add just a little air to the tube. That is so the tube has a little shape to it and is harder to pinch with the tire tools. Lube and push the bead on one side down into the center of the wheel rim and use one tire iron to keep it from coming out. On the side of the wheel, use

the Breezer tire tool, and start levering the tire bead over the wheel rim in very small "bites". Maybe two inches at a time. Each time you move the Breezer, work the bead opposite the Breezer, deeper into the center of the rim.

NEVER PATCH A MOTORCYCLE TUBEREPLACE IT.YOU ONLY HAVE TWO WHEELSAND ONE LIFE!

Other parts of an BIKE:

Meter: Meter is use for measure the Speed, RPM, Fuel, Average, Direction of Indicator, Neutral position of Gear etc.

It has two type : 1. Analogic Meter : It show the all functions which we discuss above. But it gives less accuracy. It is most commonly used in cheaply bike.

2.Digital Meter: It is modern type of meter. It also shows all functions & also gives accurate value. It is costly so it is used in costly bike.

Tyre:

Front Tyre : Mostly it find in small size than rear tyre. On this tyre steering connect & move in left or right side.Rear Tyre: It find in big size than front tyre. The Transmission is given to this tyre with the help of chain system.

Pressure in Tyres:

Products of H.M.s.i.

1. Activa:-The Honda Activa is the first scooter model released by HMSI for the Indian market. It was marketed as a family vehicle. Honda Activa is recommended for its more practical and conservative styling, ease of use, better ride quality and the excellent 102 cc engine. The scooter is also known as a family two-wheeler for its higher load carrying capacity. The vehicle has the option of kick- and self-starts. The chassis is of high rigidity under bone type and the body panels are molded steel sheet.

Specification:-ENGINE:-

Engine 4- Stroke, Single Cylinder, air CooledDisplacement 110cc (new)Bore and Stroke 50 x 52Compression Ratio 9:1Max. power 7.1 PS (5.22 KW) @ 7000rpmMax. Torque 0.8 Kgm @ 5500rpmTransmission VariomaticClutch Dry Automatic CentrifugalIgnition CDIFuel Supply Carburetor Keihin

Chassis:-Chassis Type High rigidity Underbone TypeSuspension (Front) Bottom link with Spring loaded hydraulic

damper (80mm Travel)

Suspension (Rear) Unit Swing with Spring loaded hydraulic damper (75mm travel)

Brakes Front - 130mm Drum / Rear - 130 mm Drum

Tyres Front - 3.50 X 10 / Rear - 3.50 X 10Electrical :-Battery 12v 5AhHead/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W/5W/21W

2. AVIAToR:-The Honda Aviator sports the proven power mill of the Activa in an attractive

light weight body. The larger front wheel and improved suspension make for a smoother ride. Its lightweight 12-inch-alloy wheels are a first for the scooter industry in India and are standard on the Disc brake model.Large Multi-reflector Halogen Headlamp, clear lens indicator and attractive instrument panel add to the distinctive look of the scooter.Honda Patented puncture resistant tuff up tube minimizes the incidents of sudden punctures by 70%. The Aviator boasts of a high quality telescopic front suspension & rear unit swing suspension setup that achieves smoother handling, lower vibration and more stable high-speed control than any scooter in its class. The New Aviators body design is a combination of Metal and high impact resistant ABS parts so as to reduce the overall weight of the vehicles for better mileage

Specification:- ENGINE:-

Engine 4- Stroke, Single Cylinder, air Cooled, OHCDisplacement 102ccBore and Stroke 50 x 52Compression Ratio 9:1Max. power 7.1 PS (5.22 KW) @ 7000rpmMax. Torque 0.8 Kgm @ 5500rpmTransmission VariomaticClutch Dry Automatic Centrifugal

Ignition CDIFuel Supply Carburetor Keihin

Chassis:-Chassis Type High rigidity Underbone TypeSuspension (Front) Telescopic

Suspension (Rear) Unit Swing with Spring loaded hydraulic damper

Brakes Front –190mm DrumRear - 130 mm Drum

Tyres Front –90 X 12 / Rear - 3.50 X 10Electrical :-Battery 12v 5AhHead/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W/5W/21W

3. DIO:-The Honda Dio packages the proven mechanicals from the Activa into an attractive fibre body. European looks, wedge shaped aerodynamic design and excellent fit and finish levels make this easily the most attractive scooter in its class. With enough space for a full face helmet or other odds and ends along with a large flat floor board this scooter has great load carrying capacity. spacious contoured seat coupled with the high ground clearance make for a comfortable ride.

The Honda Dio is also exports in European Countries named as LEAD and in Gulf countries named as BEAT.

Specification:-ENGINE:-

Engine 4- Stroke, Single Cylinder, air CooledDisplacement 102cc Bore and Stroke 50 x 52Compression Ratio 9:1Max. power 7.1 PS (5.22 KW) @ 7000rpmMax. Torque 0.8 Kgm @ 5500rpmTransmission VariomaticClutch Dry Automatic CentrifugalIgnition CDIFuel Supply Carburetor Keihin

Chassis:-Chassis Type High rigidity Underbone Type

Suspension (Front) Bottom link with Spring loaded hydraulic damper

Suspension (Rear) Unit Swing with Spring loaded hydraulic damper

Brakes Front - 130mm Drum Rear - 130 mm Drum

Tyres Front - 3.50 X 10 / Rear - 3.50 X 10Electrical :-Battery 12v 5AhHead/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W/5W/21W

4. Cb SHINe:-

The HondaShine has produced by Honda in India. It is a 4 stroke 12.6 cc bike. The Shine is one of the most perfect bikes on Indian road condition and delivers superb comfort and great performance. The Honda Shine is an excellent motorbike. Roller rocker arm, aerodynamic body, Tumble Flow Combustion Chamberto provide adequate power without sacrificing on fuel economy, Multi Mapping CDI etc. is some of the top features of Honda Shine.Riding position is designed to provide maximum comfort

Specification:-ENGINE:-

Engine 4- Stroke, Single Cylinder, air CooledDisplacement 124.7ccBore and Stroke 52.4 x 57.86Compression Ratio 9.2:1Max. power 10.44 PS (7.68 KW) @ 7500rpmMax. Torque 10.9 Nm @ 5500rpmTransmission 4 Speed, Constant Mesh, All UpClutch Multiplate WetIgnition Digital CDIFuel Supply Carburetor CV Type

Chassis:-

Chassis Type Advanced Diamond FrameSuspension (Front) Telescopic Fork

Suspension (Rear) 3 Step Spring Loaded Hydraulic Shock Absorber

Brakes Front –240mm/130 mm Disc/DrumRear - 130 mm Drum

Tyres Front –2.75X 18 / Rear –2.75X 18Electrical :-Battery 12v 7AhHead/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W/5W/21W

5. Stunner CBF :-Definitely the sportiest 125 in the market. This bike is bound to make some big bike owners feel envious. A new advanced and high performance 11 bhp Honda engine with 5 speed transmission ensures an absolutely sensational ride. It gives an excellent power at all speed ranges and provides superior initial acceleration & overtaking pick up. First Time in its category, Tubeless tyres in front as well rear. This enhances performance, better cornering & chances of sudden deflation of tyres on punctures are reduced. 100/90 Wider tubeless tyre in rear adds to the appeal. The 17 inch Black alloy wheels add on to the sports character of the bike. Diamond Frame with Rectangular Box type Swing Arm provides good stability in harsh and daily use conditions.

Efficient Hydraulic 240mm front disc brake provides efficient braking performance in all weather conditions and ensures stability at high speeds.

Specification:-ENGINE:-

Engine 4- Stroke, Single Cylinder, air CooledDisplacement 124.7ccBore and Stroke 52.4 x 57.86Compression Ratio 9.2:1Max. power 11.11 PS @ 8000rpmMax. Torque 11Nm @ 6500rpmTransmission 5 Speed, Constant Mesh, 1 Down - 4 UpClutch Multiplate WetIgnition Digital CDI (multi mapping)Fuel Supply Carburetor CV Type

Chassis:-Chassis Type Diamond FrameSuspension (Front) Telescopic Hydraulic Fork

Suspension (Rear) Rectangular swing arm with 3 step spring loaded hydraulic dampers

Brakes Front –240mm/130 mm Disc/DrumRear - 130 mm Drum

Tyres Front - 100/80 X 17 TubelessRear - 100/90 X 17 Tubeless

Electrical :-Battery 12v 7AhHead/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W/5W/21W

6. cb unicorn :-The smoothest 150cc in

the market, the Honda Unicorn Sports is now redesigned to make heads turn with its attractive,

aggressive look. The Unicorns power plant uses technologies such as roller rocker arms, two way air jacket, tumble flow combustion, multimapping CDI and an offset crank to provide performance through the rev range. Updated graphics, redesigned instrument console, alloy wheels, broader rear tyre and a new aggressive fairing adds a muscular look to this proven performer. The first bike in India to offer Mono Suspension which offers better traction and handling.

Specification:-ENGINE:-

Engine 4- Stroke, Single Cylinder, air CooledDisplacement 149.1ccBore and Stroke 57.3 x 57.8Compression Ratio 9.6:1Max. power 13.48 PS @ 8000rpmMax. Torque 12.8Nm @ 6500rpmTransmission 5 Speed, Constant Mesh, 1 Down - 4 UpClutch Multiplate WetIgnition Digital CDIFuel Supply Carburetor CV Type

Chassis:-Chassis Type Diamond FrameSuspension (Front) TelescopicSuspension (Rear) Monoshock

Brakes Front –240mm/130 mm Disc/DrumRear - 130 mm Drum

Tyres Front - 100/90 X 18Rear –2.75 X 18

Electrical :-Battery 12v 7AhHead/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W(Halogen)/5W/21W

7. twister cb 110 :-

Introducing the 110cc CB Twister. Great mileage like any 110cc, highly affordable like any 110cc, incredibly stylish unlike any. 110cc bikes will never be the same again..First Time in its category, Tubeless tyres in front as well rear. This enhances performance, better cornering & chances of sudden deflation of tyres on punctures are reduced. 100/90 Wider tubeless tyre in rear adds to the appeal. The 17 inch Black alloy wheels adds on to the sports character of the bike.Diamond Frame with Rectangular Box type Swing Arm provides good stability in harsh and daily use conditions.

Specification:-ENGINE:-

Engine 4- Stroke, Single Cylinder, air CooledDisplacement 109ccBore and Stroke 52.4 x 57.86Compression Ratio 9.2:1Max. power 9 bhp @ 8000rpmMax. Torque 9 Nm @ 6000rpmTransmission 4 Speed, Constant Mesh, 1 Down - 3 UpClutch Multiplate WetIgnition Digital CDI (multi mapping)Fuel Supply Carburetor CV Type

Chassis:-Chassis Type Diamond Frame, twin pipe

Suspension (Front) Telescopic Hydraulic Fork

Suspension (Rear) Spring loaded Hydraulic shock absorber with rectangular box type swing arm

Brakes Front –240mmDiscRear - 110 mm Drum

Tyres Front - 70/100 X 17 TubelessRear - 80/100 X 17 Tubeless

Electrical :-Battery 12v 3Ah Maintenance freeHead/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W/5W/21W Halogen

8. cb unicorn dazzler :-Unicorn CB Dazzler has tried and tested Unicorn’s 149.1cc four stroke engine with a hotter cam profile to up the power quotient to 14.2 bhp. Dazzler has 17 inch alloy wheels and this crucially alters the gearing. It has five speed transmission, digital instrumentation, and rear disc brake. The Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler will give a mileage of 60 kmpl. It has 150cc air-cooled single cylinder powerplant. The Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler is available in four colors armour gold metallic, pearl Siena red, pearl night star black, sword silver metallic.

Specification:-ENGINE:-

Engine 4- Stroke, Single Cylinder, air CooledDisplacement 149.1cc

Bore and Stroke 57.3 x 57.8Compression Ratio 9.2:1Max. power 14 bhp @ 8500rpmMax. Torque 1.3 kg @ 6500rpmTransmission 5 Speed, Constant Mesh, 1 Down - 4 UpClutch Multiplate WetIgnition Digital CDI (multi mapping)Fuel Supply Carburetor CV Type

Chassis:-Chassis Type Advanced Design Diamond FrameSuspension (Front) Telescopic Hydraulic ForkSuspension (Rear) Mono Suspension 3 step adjust

Brakes Front –240mm DiscRear - 220 mm Disc

Tyres Front - 80/100 X 17 TubelessRear - 110/80 X 17 Tubeless

Electrical :-Battery 12v 4Ah Maintenance freeHead/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W/5W/21W Halogen