HOLDING ONTO YOUR ROOF HOLDING ONTO YOUR ROOF

A guide to retrofitting yourroof sheathing using adhesives

Disclaimer:

The work was conducted at the Wind Load TestFacility of the Department of Civil Engineer-ing, Clemson University. While every effort ismade to insure the reliability and accuracy of allresults of studies conducted at the Wind LoadTest Facility, neither the University nor mem-bers of the Wind Load Test Facility staff repre-sents or warrants such reliability or accuracy, andaccepts no responsibility for any loss or damagearising from the interpretation or use of such re-sults. While it is frequently the objective of aWind Load Test Facility study to provide infor-mation upon which specific engineering designdecisions may be based, the formation of any suchdecision or recommendation is properly a con-sulting service not undertaken by the University.

The contents of this report reflect the views ofthe authors, who are responsible for the facts andaccuracy of the information contained herein. Thecontents do not necessarily reflect the officialviews of the Wind Load Test Facility, the Uni-versity or the sponsors listed below. The WindLoad Test Facility, the University, and the spon-sors do not endorse products or manufacturers.

This work was supported in part by thefollowing organizations and agencies listedin alphabetical order:

Federal Emergency Management Agency(FEMA)

Institute for Business and HomeSafety (IBHS)

S.C. Sea Grant Consortium

S.C. Sea Grant Extension Program

State of South Carolina

This publication was developed cooperativelyby Ed Sutt, Graduate Research Assistant, andDr. Tim Reinhold, Professor, Clemson Univer-sity Department of Civil Engineering, 110Lowry Hall, Clemson, S.C. 29634-0911, withassistance from Beth Judge, Coastal HazardsSpecialist, S.C. Sea Grant Extension Program,287 Meeting Street, Charleston, S.C. 29401.

Cover Photo/Wade Spees/Courtesy of The Post & Courier

Introduction

H urricanes and tornadoes regularly tearroofing materials from homes. Shinglesand other roof coverings, followed by roof

sheathing and windows, are probably the mostvulnerable elements of a home to wind damage.Roof covering and roof sheathing, the layer be-tween the rafters and shingles, act together toprotect the home’s contents. When portions ofthe roof covering are lost, some water may enter

the home; how-ever, when sheath-ing is lost, largeamounts of waterenter the building,dramatically in-creasing damage.Teams investigat-ing damage inSouth Florida afterHurricane Andrewnoted that builders

commonly used too few nails to attach the roofsheathing to the structural members. The resultwas roof sheathing attached with inadequate ca-pacity to withstand the upward-pulling forcesgenerated by hurricane winds.

Builders generally attach the sheathing withsmooth shank nails at spacing recommended bylocal building codes. In some coastal areas thelatest building codes take into account vulner-ability to hurricanes, but many areas have not yetrevised roof sheathing attachment requirements.If you have an older home, chances are the sheath-ing was attached using the older standards thatdo not provide adequate resistance for hurricanewinds. If you are not certain that the sheathing isfastened according to updated wind-resistant rec-ommendations, you should consider reinforcingthe connection.

If your roof covering—the shingles, tiles, metalpanels, or other material on the roof ’s surface—is more than 15 years old or damaged, you shouldplan to re-roof and improve the sheathing attach-ment at that time. Recommendations for re-roof-ing are discussed in Appendix A.

If your roof covering is in good condition andyou have access to the attic you may be able toreinforce your sheathing connection using adhe-sives, as we describe in this booklet. Adhesivescan increase the uplift resistance of the roofsheathing by five times over the strength of thestandard nail connection used in older homes.As a result, using adhesives can more than doublethe wind speed re-quired to cause fail-ure of the sheathing.For most houses, thismeans that it wouldbe unlikely that roofsheathing would belost to wind in amoderate to stronghurricane or in aweak to moderatetornado.

Reinforcing your roof sheathing connection canbe a simple process if you have access throughyour attic to the bottom surface of the sheathing.Several methods of reinforcing have been devel-oped. One approach involves simply applying aquarter inch bead of construction adhesive to bothsides of the rafter or truss where it meets the roofsheathing. Step-by-step instructions in this book-let tell how to select an adhesive, apply it prop-erly, build a caulking gun extension, if needed,and provide extra reinforcement at the gable end.

HOLDING ON TO YOUR ROOF

Adhesive applied at roof sheathing toroof truss connection.

Typical roof sheathing loss.

A guide to retrofitting your roof sheathing using adhesives

1

Getting startedFirst, take a survey of your attic to get a senseof the working conditions. Answer the follow-ing questions to determine what you need tostart your project. Lights and a tape measurewill help you.

1. Can you get the tip of a caulking gunout to the edges of the roof?

� YES � NO

2. Do you have a steep-pitched* roof(greater than 5:12)?

� YES � NO

To be most effective, adhesive should be appliedall the way to the eaves and in the corners of theroof. If your roof pitch is low, you will have ahard time placing the adhesive. If you answeredno to questions 1 or 2, you will need to build acaulking gun extension, as described in Appen-dix B.

3. Is there a floor in the attic to allow youto work?

� YES � NO

If no, you will need a stable and safe work plat-form. You can simply buy two six-foot pieces of2x10 framing lumber—stand on one and movethe other as you walk around the attic.

4. What is the square footage of the roofsurface?

_________ ÷ 64 = _________

Measure along the rafter from the edge of theeve to the top of the roof and back down. Multi-ply this number by the length of your home todetermine your total roof square footage. Divideyour total roof square footage by 64 to determinethe number of 30 oz. tubes of adhesive you willneed to complete the job.

5. What is the condition of the roofsheathing?

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

If you see any dark or rotted sheathing in yourattic, your roof has suffered water damage. Youmay want to consider re-roofing, replacing thedamaged sheathing and adding fasteners to re-inforce the sheathing connection instead of us-ing adhesives. See Appendix A for details.

6. Does insulation obscure the roof sheath-ing connection to the rafter or truss?

� YES � NO

Insulation above the ceiling may block access tothe sheathing connection at the eaves. If this isthe case, you may need to pull or rake the insula-tion back from the eaves. Reinstall the insulationafter the adhesive hardens. If the insulation isinstalled under the roof sheathing between therafters or trusses you need to decide whether it ispractical to remove and replace the insulation toperform this retrofit. Note that you will prob-ably have to replace the insulation with new ma-terial since the backing material usually gets verybrittle in an attic environment.

2

* See glossary for undefined technical terms.

Collect materialsLocal hardware stores and home centers carryAFG-01 approved adhesives. The AFG-01 ap-proval assures that the adhesive meets stringentrequirements for strength in adverse conditionssuch as heat, humidity, freezing temperatures andmoisture. If an adhesive meets AFG-01 require-ments, the approval will be written on the tubeor a logo will be displayed on the tube. AppendixC provides information on capacities of differ-

ent types of adhesives,which actually have beentested, while Appendix Dlists AFG-01 approvedadhesives.

You will need to apply alot of adhesive in thisproject. Consequently, anair-powered caulkinggun will make the taskmuch easier. For this

project, the caulking gun should have the capac-ity to hold 30 oz. tubes of adhesive. Typical air-powered caulking guns cost between $90 and$180.

Warning: Do not build an extension for acaulking gun powered by a drill. These drillpowered products work well for a standardadhesive tube, but if you add the extensiondescribed in Appendix B, the adhesive willseep around the backplate of the adhesivetube and create a real mess.

An air compressor powers the caulking gun rec-ommended for this application. If you do not owna compressor, you can borrow, rent or buy one.Be sure the compressor has a regulator so thatyou can control the amount of air pressure thatgoes to the gun. If you want to purchase a com-pressor for this project, you can buy a small onefor between $100 and $200.

AFG-01 Approval.

3

A utility knife will be used to cut the tube ofcaulk and a screwdriver will be used to puncturethe seal of the caulking tube.

If you do not have a work platform in your attic(see question 3 of the survey), purchase the 2x10lumber. Six foot sections of 2x10 framing lum-ber make excellent work platforms in your attic.Two pieces are a minimum—you can stand onone and move the other into the next work loca-tion. More lumber will make it easier to movearound.

This job can get fairly messy—gloves and ragsare essential. If a major spill occurs, paint thin-ner is a great helper. Lights help you see wherethe adhesive is going and improve the overall jobconditions.

Air powered caulking gun sourcesGrainger Phone: 864 288 0110 Web: www.grainger.comMcMaster Carr Phone: 404 346 7000 Web: www.mcmaster.comMSC Phone: 800 645 7270 Web: www.mscdirect.comTool Crib of the North Phone: 800 358 3096 Web: www.toolcrib.amazon.comCaulkmaster Phone: 800 447 6326 Web: www.caulkmaster.comTools-Plus Phone: 800 222 6133 Web: www.tools-plus.com

1. *____ 30 oz. tubes of AFG-01 adhesive2. Air powered caulking gun3. Air compressor4. Utility knife5. Screwdriver6. Gloves7. Rags8. Two 6' pieces of 2x10 framing lumber**9. Lights10. Paint thinner

* See question #4 on page 2 to determine number of tubes.** If no floor in the attic.

Materials needed

Applying the adhesiveWinter is the ideal time of year to retrofit yourroof with adhesives, as the attic temperatures aregenerally cooler. Collect materials and head upto the attic.

Note: If you need to build the caulking gun exten-sion described in Appendix B, do it before begin-ning work.

Once you are in the attic with your materials, laythe work platform boards down perpendicular tothe direction of the ceiling joists (see photo be-low). Be careful to center the board between thejoists. If the board is too far off to one side, itcould be a seesaw ride that ends one floor below!

Using the standard air-powered gun

Cut the nozzle of the tube of adhesive at the pointwhere a 1/4" bead of adhesive will be released.Use the screwdriver or wire on the caulking gunto puncture the plastic seal where the nozzle at-taches to the caulk tube. Load the adhesive tubeinto the air powered caulking gun. The air pow-ered caulking tool can empty a tube of caulk be-fore you can say “reload” so be sure to have theair pressure turned down low at first so you canget a feel for the amount of caulk that is comingout of the gun. Sometimes, to get the adhesivestarted you need to increase the pressure to helpget the caulk moving. Be sure to turn the pres-sure back down after you have done this.

The adhesive products should be applied in a wellventilated area. While some attic areas are rea-sonably well ventilated, you may want to wearprotective gear or place a fan near the attic ventsto promote air movement while you are work-ing. Be sure to read the warning labels on theproduct.

Start at the peak of the roof and work down tothe roof edges. Be sure that the adhesive gets onboth the roof sheathing and the roof structuralmember (rafter). Watch your head! Often timesthe roofing nails protrude through the sheath-ing. It is easy to hit your head on a nail and cut orgouge your scalp. Wear a bicycle helmet if youhave one.

Work down the rafter until you can’t reach anyfurther. Apply adhesive to both sides of all of therafters or trusses.

If you are fortunate enough to have a steep-pitched roof and can apply adhesive all the wayto the corners of the roof, the job is complete.More commonly, you will have to build a caulk-ing gun extension as described in Appendix B toget the adhesive to the critical corner edges ofyour roof.

If your home has a gabled roof with an overhang,further reinforcement may be necessary at the

2x10 framing lumber work platfrom.

4

Applying adhesive with standard air powered caulking gun.

Applying the adhesive with theextension

Before beginning this section, be sure you havebuilt the necessary parts as described in Appen-dix B.

Short extension

Attach the 12" long 1/2" extension tip directlyto the 11" long 3/4" extension. This will form ashort extension, which will help apply adhesivefarther towards the edge of the roof. Turn thepressure up on the air compressor and prime theextension. Hold the gun over an empty cardboardbox and depress the trigger until the adhesivebegins to flow. If there is adhesive coming outaround the tee near the caulking gun body, re-move the adhesive tube and apply more duct tapeas a seal.

As soon as the adhesive begins to flow and be-fore you begin to apply the adhesive, turn thepressure down on the compressor. Start applying

gable end. A gable roof overhang is particularlyvulnerable to wind damage because the windpressure acts on the top and bottom surfaces ofthe overhang. Adhesives can be effectively usedto reinforce this detail if the overhang is one footor less. To reinforce this detail a 1/4" bead of ad-hesive is applied as before except a 3/4" widequarter round trim piece is pressed into the un-cured adhesive and held in place with finish nails.

the adhesive from the point where you stoppedapplying the adhesive with the standard gun.Continue until you can reach no further towardsthe edge of the roof with the short caulking ex-tension.

Long extension

After you have applied as much adhesive as pos-sible with the short extension, add the 48" ex-tension. The 48" extension inserts between the12” long 1/2" extension tip and 11” long 3/4" ex-tension with the stiffening loop/caulking gun as-sembly. Prime the extension as before using acardboard box to catch the adhesive as it exitsthe tip. Adjust the pressure as required and re-sume applying the adhesive where you left off.Continue until you complete the job.

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Applying the adhesive with the short extension.

Applying adhesive with the long extension.

Applying quarter round with adhesive and finishing nails.

Recommendationsfor re-roofingIf your roof covering is nearing the end of its use-ful life and you plan to re-roof in the near future,the most economical option for strengtheningroof sheathing attachment is to strip the roof cov-ering down to the wood sheathing and refastenthe sheathing using ring shank nails every fourto six inches along each rafter or truss or install#8 screws every six to eight inches. A #8 screwtwo inches long gives five times the withdrawalcapacity of a comparable size nail. There are nowautomatic feed screw guns available which allowyou or your contractor to install the screws veryquickly.

When the roof covering is off, the opportunityexists to create a second line of defense againstwater intrusion into your home if you lose yourroof covering. Consider placing a four to six inchwide self adhesive bituminous strip on the jointsbetween the roof sheathing. This bituminous stripis mainly used in window flashing applicationsand is sold under several brand names. Call thecompanies listed on this page for specific prod-uct information. Also consider extra fastening andoverlap for the underlayment material.

In selecting a roof covering, look for products thatoffer enhanced protection against wind and neverplace a second layer of shingles over an existingone if your house is located in an area subject tohigh winds or hurricanes.

If you are not ready to re-roof your home buthave access to the underside of the roof sheath-ing through an attic space, the adhesive ap-proaches described in this brochure may providea solution.

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Re-roofing source list

General informationInstitute for Business and Home Safety“Is Your Home Protected From HurricaneDisaster?: A Homeowner’s Guide to HurricaneRetrofit”617 292 2003 • www.ibhs.org

S.C. Sea Grant Extension ProgramCoastal Hazards843 727 6497 • www.113calhoun.org

Roofing materialsGAF Materials Corporation800 ROOF 411• www.gaf.com

Certainteed Corporationwww.certainteed.com

Tamko Roofing Products800 641 4691 • www.tamko.com

Screw fastening systemsQuik Drive Corporation888 487 7845 • www.quikdrive.com

Pam Fastening Technology, Inc800 699 2674

Grabber Construction Products800 477 TURN • www.grabberman.com

Makita USA800 462 5482 • www.makita.com

Stanley-Bostitch401 884 2500• www.stanleyworks.com

Self adhesive bituminous stripBartech International800 341 9917 • www.ridglass.com

MFM Building Products Corporation800 882 ROOF • www.coshocton.com/mfm/

Protecto Wrap Co.800 759 9727 • www.protectowrap.com

Appendix A

Building a caulkinggun extensionYou can build an extension for an air poweredcaulking gun using common plumbing pipe andfittings. The extension will help get the adhesiveto the critical hard to reach areas at the eaves ofthe roof.

The extension is designed with connections thatallow you to maneuver it easily in the attic. Theloop from the extension to the caulking gun addsstiffness to the extension and provides an area toattach an adjustable handle to make it easier touse.

A list of materials needed for the six-foot exten-sion is provided on page 9.

Instructions1. Cut the 3/4" copper pipe to the specifiedlengths listed in the table below using a hacksawor pipe cutter. If you use a hacksaw, clean up therough edges with a metal file. Be careful whenyou are placing any of the copper pieces into avise—too much pressure distorts the copper.

2. Use a vise and hacksaw to cut the tees so thatthey can be used for bracing. Place the tee abouthalfway into the vise with the long edge of thetee parallel to the jaws, as shown in photo 1. Placethe hacksaw on top of the vise and use it as aguide to cut through the tee. Repeat this proce-dure for all four tees.

3. Bend two of thecut tees slightly to fitaround the 3/4" cop-per pipe. Insert ashort length of pipein the free hole onthe tee, insert the flatarea of the tee, at thecut, in the vise andbend out both sides.(see photo 2)

You will use one ofthese and a 6" pieceof 3/4" copper pipe to form a stiffening loophandle. The second tee attaches the stiffeningloop to the extension tube.

4. Bend one of thetwo remaining tees tofit around the caulk-ing gun body usingthe procedure out-lined in step 3. Youwill bend the teemore than you did instep 3 as shown inphoto 3.

5. The last tee formsthe connection be-tween the 30 oz.caulking tube, the

caulking gun and the caulking gun extension.This tee needs to be bent almost flat in order tosit close to the caulking tube. Use the vise to flat-ten it out. You may need to try it out several timesand trim some of the corners. This is the hardestpiece to fit—it needs to be quite flat so the caulk-ing gun closes with the tube of caulking and theflattened tee inside the canister. (see photo 4)

6. Locate the 12" length of 1/2" copper pipe. Cuta 45-degree angle using a hacksaw at one end ofthis pipe. This provides a good nozzle to directthe caulking to the intersection of the rafter andsheathing. You may want to mark the top of thetube so you will have a good reference to deter-mine which direction the tip is pointing when

7

Appendix B

Lengths to cut 8' sectionof 3/4" copper pipe

1. 48"2. 15"3. 11"4. 6"5. 2-1/2"6. 2"7. Two, at 1-3/4"

Tools needed1. Hack saw2. Vise3. Tubing cutter (opt.)4. Pliers5. Screwdriver

Photo 2. Bending the tee.

Photo 1. Cutting the tee

you are using the caulkingextension.

7. After all of the parts arecollected and modified, youare ready to assemble the ex-tension. Lay out all of thepieces in order and dry fit thepieces together. Be sure tocheck that the stiffeningloop allows the extensiontube to protrude in a straightline from the end of the gun.This is important because

you may be using a slightly different caulking gunthan the one we used.

8. After you areconfident all theparts fit together,disassemble and layout the parts in or-der to begin. Be surethe two male and fe-male threaded con-nections are facingthe same direction.This will allow youto change the lengthof the extension. Use5-minute epoxy toassemble the exten-sion. Mix the epoxythoroughly and apply it to clean pieces of copperwith an acid brush.

9. After the glue dries, you can assemble the

caulking gun with the extension. Slip the caulk-ing gun body over the first 11" section of the ex-tension. The stiffening loop can now be installedusing 3" hose clamps. Be sure not to over tightenthe clamps or it will distort the shape of the caulk-ing gun body. Next, attach the stiffening loop tothe extension tube with the 1-1/4" hose clamps.Attach the handle to the stiffening loop usingthe other 1-1/4" hose clamps.

10. Once this assembly is completed, you areready to install a tube of adhesive in the caulkinggun with the extension. Cut the construction ad-hesive tube off at the thickest point and punc-ture the seal at the end of the tube. In order toavoid blowback of adhesive, the nozzle of the tubemust be wrapped with duct tape to provide a sealbetween the copper pipe and the nozzle of thetube. If there is not a sufficient seal between thecaulking gun tube and the extension nozzle, atremendous amount of caulk will be lost.

The best way to assure that the seal is sufficientis to use a small 2" long piece of 3/4"copper pipefor testing. First wrap the adhesive tube nozzlewith a continuous wrap of duct tape. Then stickthe end of the tube into the small piece of copperpipe to assure you have a tight fit. Once you aresatisfied with the fit (by adding or removing ducttape), remove the small piece of pipe and insertthe tube into the caulking gun with the exten-sion and stiffening loop attached. With the ad-ditional tee in the caulking gun, assembly of thegun may not be easy. Be sure that the tee thatconnects the caulking gun body to the extensiontube is flat and that the adhesive tube is fully in-serted into the extension.

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Photo 3. Tee around caulkinggun.

Photo 4. Tee connectingcaulking gun and extension.

Extension Tip Removable 48" extension

Tee connecting caulking gun and extension

Adjustable handle

Air powered caulking gun

Stiffening loop

Assembled caulking gun with six foot extension.

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Layout of nozzle, stiffening loop, and extension

3/4" copper pipe, 48"

3/4" copper pipe, 15"

3/4" copper pipe, 11"

3/4" copper pipe, 2"

3/4" copper pipe, 1-3/4"

3/4" copper pipe, 2-1/2"

3/4" copper pipe, 1-3/4"

1/2" copper pipe, 12"

3/4" to 1/2" copper reducer

3/4" copper male threaded connector

3/4" copper female threaded connector

3/4" copper male threaded connector

3/4" copper female threaded connector

3/4" copper tee

3/4" copper teearound caulkingbody

3/4" copper teeconnecting caulkinggun and extension

45 degree 3/4" copper angle

90 degree 3/4" copper elbow

Materials needed forcaulking gun extension

1. 8' section of 3/4" copper pipe2. 12" section of 1/2" copper pipe3. Two, 3/4" copper female threaded connections4. Two, 3/4" copper male threaded connections5. One, 90 degree 3/4" copper elbow6. Two, 45 degree 3/4" copper angles7. One, 3/4" to 1/2" copper reducer8. Four, 3/4" copper tees9. Two, 3" hose clamps10. Two, 1-1/4" hose clamps11. 5 minute epoxy12. Plumbing acid brushes13. Duct tape

Parts illustration

3/4" copper pipe

45 degree 3/4" copper angle

3/4" copper tee

3/4" to 1/2" copper reducer

3/4" copper female threaded connector

1/2" copper pipe

3/4" copper male threaded connector

90 degree 3/4" copper elbow

plumbing acid brush

3" hose clamp

1-1/4" hose clamp

Tested adhesives:Performance and cost

The adhesives used in this study were readilyavailable from local suppliers such as Lowes, ACEHardware, and Home Depot. The 3M Scotch-Grip Wood Adhesive 5230 was a special orderitem—but it could be ordered through the localhome improvement center.

Table 1 provides a listing of the various adhe-sives used in the investigation. Test standards andcertifications are also listed for each adhesive. Twoof the adhesives evaluated did not carry any in-dication that they met any test standard or certi-fication. Five carried the AFG-01 certification,six carried the ASTM C557 certification and fourcarried the FHA/HUD Bulletin 60 certificationin addition to either the AFG-01 or ASTMC557 certification. Based on the test results ob-tained from this investigation, it appears that anywood adhesive product which carries the AFG-01 designation or the ASTM C557 designationshould provide adequate reinforcement if appliedas suggested. However, it is clear from the failurepressure data that the adhesives which carry theAFG-01 designation provided more consistentand higher performance, so we recommend themin the instructions. The OSI Pro Series SF 400Subfloor and Construction Adhesive, the DAP4000 Subfloor Adhesive and the TEC SturdiBond Subfloor and Exterior Construction Ad-hesive all provided cost effective alternatives withexcellent reinforcement. The 3M Scotch-Grip5230 was clearly the most expensive but it isunique in that it remains flexible while the otheradhesives tend to become relatively hard as theycure.

For comparison purposes, the commercial prod-uct Foamseal (installed by a professional) resultedin average failure pressures of 200 pounds persquare foot (psf ) for an installation with the samematerials used in developing Table 1 (4 ply 1/2"thick CDX plywood and Southern Yellow Pinerafters). The typical cost of the Foamseal instal-lation (labor and materials) is $1.00 per square

foot of roof surface ($32 per 4x8 ft. sheathingpanel). The costs listed in Table 1 assume instal-lation by the homeowner and only include thecost of the adhesive materials.

There are several points of caution which shouldbe noted. First, while the APA -The EngineeredWood Association has endorsed the adhesive ret-rofit options described in this booklet for existingconstruction, they are adamant that adhesivesshould not be applied on roof sheathing to rafteror truss connections in new construction. In newconstruction, the moisture content of the sheath-ing and the roof trusses or rafters may be signifi-cantly different and components may move rela-tive to each other as the moisture content changesto match ambient conditions. This may result inwarping of the roof decking.

The APA has conducted tests of roof sheathingattached using the Scotch Grip 5320 and foundthat warping was not likely to be a problem forthe retrofit of existing roof sheathing installations,where materials were likely to have reached simi-lar moisture levels.

Second, it should be noted that the effects of theattic environmental conditions on the strengthof adhesives is unknown, therefore adhesivesshould be considered an intermediate measureuntil re-roofing is necessary. At that time theguidelines discussed in Appendix A should befollowed.

Finally, if you carry out one of the retrofit op-tions for improving the attachment of the roofsheathing, you also should evaluate the type ofconnection used to attach the rafters or trussesto the outer walls of your house. If the rafters ortrusses are simply attached using a toenail con-nection, your house also has a severe inherentweakness at this point. By fastening the roofsheathing more securely, you may create the po-tential for even greater loss if the whole roof liftsoff the walls.

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Appendix C

* Tested with 15/32" 3 ply 32/15 Span Rated Sheathing, Southern Yellow Pine Rafters.

Adhesive performance and cost data based on 1/4" beads on both sides of the rafters or truss top chords

Type of adhesive Avg. failure Certifications / Test standards passed Typ. adhesive cost perpres. psf 4x8 ft. sheathing panel

OSI Quickbond 150 none $1.20

OSI Pro-Series SF 400 280 AFG-01, ICBO ER 2769, FHA/HUD 60, $1.50Sub-Floor and ASTM E 84-76, ASTM D3498-76Construction Adhesive

Liquid Nails Foam 70 none $1.95

Liquid Nails for Projects 220 ASTM C-557 $1.95and Construction

Liquid Nails Heavy Duty 260, 300* ASTM C-557 $2.25Construction andRemodeling Adhesive

DAP Beats the Nail 200 ASTM C-557 $1.50Adhesive

DAP 4000 Subfloor 270 AFG-01, ASTM C-557, FHA/HUD 60 $1.80Adhesive

ACE Construction 240 ASTM C-557 $1.50Adhesive

TEC Sturdi-Bond 300 AFG-01, ASTM C-557, FHA/HUD 60 $2.55Subfloor and Exterior Construction Adhesive

3M Scotch-Grip 5230 370 AFG-01, FHA/HUD 60 $20.40 Wood Adhesive

Liquid Nails for 277* AFG-01, ASTM D3498 $2.19Subfloors and Decks

Table 1.

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203C2 Subfloor Adhesive

3C 202 Subfloor Adhesive

ABCO Subfloor & Construction Adhesive

Abitibi 700 Subfloor Construction Adhesive

ACE Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive

ACE Subfloor Adhesive

AF400 Subfloor & Construction Adhesive

AP Adhesive

BC 400 Subfloor & Construction Adhesive

Biddle’s Construction Adhesive

Bullet Bond High Powered Subfloor & Deck Adhesive

Calgafast Adhesive

DAP 4000 Subfloor & Plywood Adhesive

DAP Big Stick Construction Adhesive

DAP Deck Weld and Treated Lumber Adhesive

DF2000

DF400

Do-It-Best Sub-Floor & Decking Adhesive

DP400

Eagle Grip (EG 400)

Elmer’s Subfloor & Construction Adhesive

Equus Heavy Duty Adhesives

Fastener Subfloor Adhesive

Focal Point Adhesive

Franklin Subfloor Construction Adhesive

Franklin Titebond Construction Adhesive

FS-100 Construction Adhesive

FS-110 Flooring Deck Adhesive

GMC-400

Golden Spike Subfloor Adhesive

GSL 40 Subfloor Adhesive

H.P. Construction Adhesive

Hamilton All Purpose Subfloor and Construction

Adhesive

HB 400

Hechinger Subfloor & Construction Adhesive

Henry No. 217 Subfloor and Construction Adhesive

Hilti Solvent Free Construction Adhesive

(Hilti CA-3600)

HLC-400

IC -4000 Subfloor/Construction Adhesive

ITW SB-400 Adhesive

Leech F-26 Waterproof Construction Adhesive

LN-602 Liquid Nails Construction Adhesive

LN-902 Latex Liquid Nails Subfloor Adhesive

Lumber Lock

MD400 Construction Multi-Purpose Adhesive

MD400C Contractor’s Grade Construction Adhesive

Nail Bond Subfloor Adhesive (NB-400)

Nail Power Nonflammable Subfloor Adhesive (NP-500)

Nail Power Subfloor Construction Adhesive (NP-400)

ORCO Subfloor Construction Adhesive

Parr Construction Adhesive 40

PL PRO/CFD-400

PL400 Subfloor Construction Adhesive

PL500 Deck & Treated Lumber Adhesive

Pliobond 5012

Plio-Nail Construction Adhesive

POLYSEAMSEAL Heavy Duty Construction

Adhesive (195-152)

Pro-Series SF-400 Sub-Floor and Construction

Adhesive

Pro-Series SF-450 Heavy Duty Sub-Floor and

Construction Adhesive

Pro-Series SF-475 Non-Flammable Sub-Floor

and Deck Adhesive

PS-800 Super Bonding Adhesive

QS400 Subfloor Construction Adhesive

Quickbond Heavy Duty Sub-Floor &

Construction Adhesive

RL1168

SB-400 Construction Decking Adhesive

SB-8-10 The Reinforcer Adhesive

Scotch Grip 5230 Wood Adhesive

Servistar Premium Construction Adhesive

Servistar Subfloor Adhesive

SFA 66 Subfloor& Construction Adhesive

SFC 400 Subfloor & Construction Adhesive

Shur-Stik 96 Subfloor & Decking Adhesive

Solvent Free CA 40 Environmentally Safe

Adhesive Adhesive

Solvent Free Subfloor Adhesive

Solvent Free Titebond Construction Adhesive

Spee-Dee Construction & Subfloor Adhesive

Spee-Dee Construction Adhesive

SS 400 Subfloor & Construction Adhesive

SS 4000 Structural Decking & Construction Adhesive

SS-2000A Construction Adhesive

SS400

SS4000

Stix 4 Construction and Subfloor Adhesive

Sub-Floor Adhesive CA-CG-3400

Sutherland Construction Adhesive

TA-175 Sturdi Bond Adhesive

Top 4000 Subfloor & Construction Adhesive

Tru Bond Sturdibond

Tru Bond Subfloor & Construction Adhesive (TB 175)

Ultra Bond

UR 88

Van Grip Construction Adhesive 7012

Wilhold Subfloor & Construction Adhesive

X-Pert Subfloor & Construction Adhesive

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List of AFG-01 approved adhesivesAppendix D

GlossaryAdhesive:A substance capable of holding materials togetherby bonding to the surfaces.

Building codes:A collection of rules and regulations—typicallyconsisting of the minimum standards for archi-tecture, structure and mechanical standards forsanitation, public health, welfare and safety—adopted by authorities with the jurisdiction tocontrol design and construction of buildings, re-modeling and repair, quality of materials, use,occupancy, and other related factors.

Fastener:A mechanical device, weld or rivet for holdingtwo or more parts together in a structure. Nailsand screws are examples of fasteners.

Flashing or flashing tape:A thin, impervious material used in constructionto prevent water penetration; commonly used toseal contacts around window and doorframes.

Gable end:A roof that slopes upward on two sides.

Gabled roof overhang:The portion of the roof that overhangs the wallat the gable end of the house.

Rafters:A series of inclined members to which roof cov-erings are attached or fixed. Also referred to asroof structural members.

Roof covering:Top covering of roof surface, may includeshingles, roof tiles, slate, or sheet metal.

Roof pitch:The slope at which the roof is angled. The pitchis defined as the distance the roof rises in 12inches horizontal. For example a 3:12 pitched roofhas 3 inches of vertical rise in 12 inches of hori-zontal run.

Sheathing (or sheeting):The covering (usually wood boards, plywood,OSB or wallboards) placed over the exterior stud-ding or rafters of a building to provide a base forthe application of wall coverings or roofing ma-terials.

Toe nail connection:A ninety degree connection of two pieces of woodthat uses nails driven in at an angle.

Underlayment:A felt-paper type material, commonly black andtar-impregnated, used in roofing systems to helpprevent water penetration into underlying sup-porting structures.

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