History of Clothing

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

  • 7/27/2019 History of Clothing

    1/7

    History of clothing and textiles

    The wearing of clothing is exclusively a human characteristic and is a feature of most human societies. It is notknown when humans began wearing clothes.Anthropologistsbelieve that animal skins and vegetation wereadapted into coverings as protection from cold, heat and rain, especially as humans migrated to new climates;alternatively, covering may have been invented first for other purposes, such as magic, decoration, cult, orprestige, and later found to be practical as well.Clothing and textiles have been important in human history and reflects thematerialsavailable to a civilizationas well as the technologies that it has mastered. The socialsignificance of the finished product reflectstheirculture.Textiles, defined as felt orspunfibersmade intoyarn and subsequently netted, looped,knitorwoven to makefabrics, appeared in the Middle East during the late stone age.[1]From ancient times to the present day,methods of textile production have continually evolved, and the choices of textiles available have influencedhow people carried their possessions, clothed themselves, and decorated their surroundings.[2]

    Sources available for the study of the history of clothing and textiles include material remains discoveredvia archaeology; representation of textiles and their manufacture in art; and documents concerning themanufacture, acquisition, use, and trade of fabrics, tools, and finished garments. Scholarship of textile history,especially its earlier stages, is part ofmaterial culture studies.See also: Timeline of clothing and textiles technologyContents[show]

    Prehistoric development[edit source]

    First fabric uses, likely to be felt [citation needed], are thought to have been used about 100,000 years ago.Early adoption of fibrous apparel[edit source]

    Another genetic analysis suggests that the humanbody louse, which lives in clothing, may only have divergedfrom thehead lousesome 107 thousand years ago, which supports evidence that humans began wearingclothing at around this time.[3]

    These estimates pre-date the first known human exodus from Africa, although species ofHomo (otherthanHomo Sapiens) who may have worn clothes - and shared these louse infestations - appear to havemigrated earlier.Initial manufacture of clothes[edit source]The development of textile and clothing manufacture in prehistory has been the subject of a number ofscholarly studies since the late 20th century.[4][5] These sources have helped to provide a coherent history of

    these prehistoric developments. Evidence suggests that human beings may have begun wearing clothing asfar back as 100,000 to 500,000 years ago. [6]

    Possible sewing needles have been dated to around 40,000 years ago. [7]The earliest definite examples ofneedles originate from theSolutreanculture, which existed in France from 19,000 BC to 15,000 BC. Theearliest dyedflax fibers have been found in a prehistoric cave in the Republic of Georgia and date back to36,000 BP.[8][9]

    The earliest evidence ofweavingcomes from impressions of textiles and basketry and nets on little pieces ofhard clay, dating from 27,000 years ago and found inDolni Vestonice in the Czech Republic.

    At a slightly later date (25,000 years) theVenus figurines were depicted with clothing.[10]Those from westernEurope were adorned with basket hats or caps, belts worn at the waist, and a strap of cloth that wrappedaround the body right above the breast. Eastern European figurines wore belts, hung low on the hips andsometimes string skirts.[5]

    Archaeologists have discovered artifacts from the same period that appear to have been used in the textilearts: (5000 BC) net gauges,spindle needles and weaving sticks.[11]

    Ancient textiles and clothing[edit source]

    The first actual textile, as opposed to skins sewn together, was probablyfelt. Surviving examplesofNlebinding, another early textile method, date from 6500 BC. Our knowledge of ancient textiles andclothing has expanded in the recent past thanks to modern technological developments. [12] Our knowledge ofcultures varies greatly with the climatic conditions to which archeological deposits are exposed; the MiddleEast and the arid fringes of China have provided many very early samples in good condition, but the earlydevelopment of textiles in theIndian subcontinent, sub-Saharan Africaand other moist parts of the worldremains unclear. In northernEurasiapeat bogscan also preserve textiles very well.Early woven clothing was often made of full loom widths draped, tied, or pinned in place.Ancient Near East[edit source]

    The earliest known woven textiles of the Near East may be fabrics used to wrap the dead, excavated ata Neolithic site at atalhyk inAnatolia, carbonized in a fire and radiocarbon dated to c. 6000 BC.[13] Evidenceexists offlax cultivation from c. 8000 BC in the Near East, but the breeding of sheep with a wooly fleeceratherthan hair occurs much later, c. 3000 BC.[13]

    Ancient India[edit source]

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthropologyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthropologyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textilehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Materialhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Materialhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socialhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Felthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinning_(textiles)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinning_(textiles)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinning_(textiles)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibrehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibrehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarnhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarnhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Net_(textile)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knittinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knittinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weavinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_agehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_intro-2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archaeologyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Material_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technologyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textileshttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_neededhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_neededhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_neededhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=2http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=2http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Body_lousehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Body_lousehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Head_lousehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Head_lousehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Stoneking-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Stoneking-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_migration#Pre-modern_migrationshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_migration#Pre-modern_migrationshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homo_Sapienshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homo_Sapienshttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-barber1992-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-barber1995-5http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Travis-7http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Travis-7http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solutreanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solutreanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flaxhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flaxhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Republic_of_Georgiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Before_Presenthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-8http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-8http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-9http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weavinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weavinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolni_Vestonicehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolni_Vestonicehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Czech_Republichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venus_figurineshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venus_figurineshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-10http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-10http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-barber1995-5http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Net_gauge&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Spindle_needle&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Weaving_stick&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-11http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=4http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Felthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Felthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%A5lebindinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-12http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_subcontinenthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_subcontinenthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sub-Saharan_Africahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sub-Saharan_Africahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eurasiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peat_boghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peat_boghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loomhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=5http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Near_Easthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neolithichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%87atalh%C3%B6y%C3%BCkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anatoliahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anatoliahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radiocarbonhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_1-13http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flaxhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flaxhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woolhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woolhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_1-13http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textilehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Materialhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socialhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Felthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinning_(textiles)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibrehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarnhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Net_(textile)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knittinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weavinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_agehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_intro-2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archaeologyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Material_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technologyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textileshttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_neededhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Body_lousehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Head_lousehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Stoneking-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_migration#Pre-modern_migrationshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homo_Sapienshttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-barber1992-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-barber1995-5http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Travis-7http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solutreanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flaxhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Republic_of_Georgiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Before_Presenthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-8http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-9http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weavinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolni_Vestonicehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Czech_Republichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venus_figurineshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-10http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-barber1995-5http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Net_gauge&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Spindle_needle&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Weaving_stick&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-11http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Felthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%A5lebindinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-12http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_subcontinenthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sub-Saharan_Africahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eurasiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peat_boghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loomhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=5http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Near_Easthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neolithichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%87atalh%C3%B6y%C3%BCkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anatoliahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radiocarbonhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_1-13http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flaxhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woolhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_1-13http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthropology
  • 7/27/2019 History of Clothing

    2/7

    The inhabitants of the Indus Valley Civilization used cotton for clothing as early as the 5th millennium BC 4thmillennium BC.[14]

    According to The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition:[15]

    "Cotton has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times. It clothed the people of ancient India, Egypt,and China. Hundreds of years before the Christian era cotton textiles were woven in India with matchless skill,and their use spread to the Mediterranean countries. In the 1st cent. Arab traders broughtfine Muslin and Calico to Italy and Spain. The Moorsintroduced the cultivation of cotton into Spain in the 9thcent. Fustians and dimities were woven there and in the 14th cent. in Venice and Milan, at first with a linenwarp. Little cotton cloth was imported to England before the 15th cent., although small amounts were obtained

    chiefly for candlewicks. By the 17th cent. theEast India Company was bringing rare fabrics from India.NativeAmericans skillfully spun and wove cotton into fine garments and dyed tapestries. Cotton fabrics foundinPeruvian tombs are said to belong to a pre-Inca culture. In color and texture the ancient Peruvian andMexican textiles resemble those found in Egyptian tombs."Ancient Egypt[edit source]Evidence exists for production of linen cloth inAncient Egypt in the Neolithic period, c. 5500 BC. Cultivation ofdomesticated wildflax, probably an import from the Levant, is documented as early as c. 6000 BC Otherbastfibers includingrush, reed, palm, and papyrus were used alone or with linen to make rope and other textiles.Evidence forwool production in Egypt is scanty at this period. [16]

    Spinning techniques included the drop spindle, hand-to-hand spinning, and rolling on the thigh; yarn was alsospliced.[16] A horizontal ground loom was used prior to the New Kingdom, when a vertical two-beam loom wasintroduced, probably from Asia.

    Linen bandages were used in the burial custom ofmummification, and art depicts Egyptian men wearinglinen kiltsand women in narrow dresses with various forms of shirts and jackets, often of sheer pleated fabric.[16]

    Ancient China[edit source]Main articles: History of silkandHanfu

    The earliest evidence of silk production in China was found at the sites ofYangshao culture in Xia, Shanxi,where acocoon ofbombyx mori, the domesticated silkworm, cut in half by a sharp knife is dated tobetween 5000 and 3000 BC. Fragments of primitive looms are also seen from the sites ofHemuduculturein Yuyao, Zhejiang, dated to about 4000 BC. Scraps of silk were found in aLiangzhu culturesite atQianshanyang in Huzhou, Zhejiang, dating back to 2700 BC.[17][18] Other fragments have been recoveredfrom royal tombs in the Shang Dynasty (c. 1600 c. 1046 BC). [19]

    Under the Shang Dynasty, Han Chinese clothing orHanfu consisted of a yi, a narrow-cuffed, knee-length

    tunic tied with a sash, and a narrow, ankle-length skirt, called shang, worn with abixi, a length of fabric thatreached the knees. Clothing of the elite was made of silk in vivid primary colours.Ancient Japan[edit source]The earliest evidence of weaving in Japan is associated with the Jmon period. This culture is defined bypottery decorated with cord patterns. In a shell mound in the Miyagi Prefecture, dating back about 5,500,some cloth fragments were discovered made from bark fibers.[20]Hemp fibers were also discovered in theTorihama shell midden, Fukui Prefecture, dating back to the Jmon period, suggesting that these plantscould also have been used for clothing. Some pottery pattern imprints depict also fine mat designs, provingtheir weaving techniques. Since bone needles were also found, it is assumed that they wore dresses thatwere sewn together.[21]

    The textile trade in the ancient world[edit source]Main article:Silk Road

    The exchange of luxury textiles was predominant on the Silk Road, a series of ancient trade and culturaltransmission routes that were central to cultural interaction through regions of the Asian continentconnecting East and West by linking traders, merchants, pilgrims,monks, soldiers, nomads and urbandwellers from China to the Mediterranean Sea during various periods of time. The trade route was initiatedaround 114 BC by the Han Dynasty,[22] although earlier trade across the continents had already existed.Geographically, the Silk Road or Silk Route is an interconnected series of ancient trade routesbetween Chang'an (today's Xi'an) in China, withAsia Minorand the Mediterranean extending over8,000 km (5,000 mi) on land and sea. Trade on the Silk Road was a significant factor in the development ofthe great civilizationsof China, Egypt, Mesopotamia, Persia, the Indian subcontinent, andRome, andhelped to lay the foundations for the modern world.Classical antiquity[edit source]Main articles: Clothing in the ancient world,Clothing in ancient Greece, andClothing in ancient Rome

    Greek chiton (left) and chiton worn under himationDress inclassical antiquityfavored wide, unsewn lengths of fabric, pinned and draped to the body invarious ways.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-14http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-15http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mediterraneanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calico_(textile)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moorshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moorshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honourable_East_India_Companyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honourable_East_India_Companyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_the_Americashttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_the_Americashttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_the_Americashttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peruhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peruhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=7http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Egypthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flaxhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flaxhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levanthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bast_fiberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bast_fiberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juncaceaehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juncaceaehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_(plant)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palm_treehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papyrushttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woolhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_2-16http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_2-16http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Egyptian_burial_customshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mummyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Art_of_ancient_Egypthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_2-16http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=8http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_silkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_silkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfuhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yangshao_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yangshao_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shanxihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocoon_(silk)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocoon_(silk)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bombyx_morihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemudu_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemudu_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemudu_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemudu_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yuyaohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liangzhu_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liangzhu_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liangzhu_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huzhouhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-17http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-17http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-18http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shang_Dynastyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Meyer-19http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Han_Chinesehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfuhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=9http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=9http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=9http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J%C5%8Dmon_periodhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-20http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-20http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-21http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=10http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk_Roadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk_Roadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk_Roadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilgrimhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nomadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mediterranean_Seahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Han_Dynastyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Han_Dynastyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-22http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chang'anhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xi'anhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asia_Minorhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Civilizationhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Civilizationhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mesopotamiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Romehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Romehttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=11http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothing_in_the_ancient_worldhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothing_in_the_ancient_worldhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Greecehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Romehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Romehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Classical_antiquityhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Classical_antiquityhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Classical_antiquityhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChitonAndHimation.gifhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-14http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-15http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mediterraneanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calico_(textile)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moorshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honourable_East_India_Companyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_the_Americashttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_the_Americashttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peruhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=7http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Egypthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flaxhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levanthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bast_fiberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bast_fiberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juncaceaehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_(plant)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palm_treehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papyrushttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woolhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_2-16http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_2-16http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Egyptian_burial_customshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mummyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Art_of_ancient_Egypthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Cambridge_2-16http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=8http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_silkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfuhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yangshao_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shanxihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocoon_(silk)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bombyx_morihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemudu_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemudu_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yuyaohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liangzhu_culturehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huzhouhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-17http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-18http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shang_Dynastyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Meyer-19http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Han_Chinesehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfuhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=9http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J%C5%8Dmon_periodhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-20http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-21http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=10http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk_Roadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk_Roadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilgrimhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nomadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mediterranean_Seahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Han_Dynastyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-22http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chang'anhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xi'anhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asia_Minorhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Civilizationhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mesopotamiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Romehttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=11http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothing_in_the_ancient_worldhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Greecehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Romehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Classical_antiquity
  • 7/27/2019 History of Clothing

    3/7

    Ancient Greek clothing consisted of lengths of wool or linen, generally rectangular and secured at theshoulders with ornamented pins called fibulae and belted with a sash. Typical garments were thepeplos, aloose robe worn by women; the chlamys, a cloak worn by men; and thechiton, a tunic worn by both menand women. Mens chitons hung to the knees, whereas womens chitons fell to their ankles. Along cloak called a himation was worn over the peplos or chlamys.The toga of ancient Rome was also an unsewn length of wool cloth, worn by male citizens draped aroundthe body in various fashions, over a simple tunic. Early tunics were two simple rectangles joined at theshoulders and sides; later tunics had sewnsleeves. Women wore the drapedstola or an ankle-lengthtunic, with a shawl-like palla as an outer garment. Wool was the preferred fabric, although linen, hemp, and

    small amounts of expensive imported silk and cotton were also worn.Iron age Europe[edit source]The Iron Age is broadly identified as stretching from the end of the Bronze Age around 1200 BC to 500 ADand the beginning of theMedievalperiod. Bodies and clothing have been found from this period, preservedby the anaerobic and acidic conditions ofpeat bogsin northwestern Europe. A Danish recreation ofclothing found with such bodies indicates woven wool dresses, tunics and skirts. [23]These were largelyunshaped and held in place with leather belts and metal brooches or pins. Garments were not alwaysplain, but incorporated decoration with contrasting colours, particularly at the ends and edges of thegarment. Men wore breeches, possibly with lower legs wrapped for protection, although Boucher statesthat long trousers have also been found.[24] Warmth came from woollen shawls and capes of animal skin,probably worn with the fur facing inwards for added comfort. Caps were worn, also made from skins, andthere was an emphasis on hair arrangements, from braids to elaborate Suebian knots.[25] Soft laced shoes

    made from leather protected the foot.Medieval clothing and textiles[edit source]

    The history ofMedieval European clothing and textiles has inspired a good deal of scholarly interest in the21st century. Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard, and Kay Staniland authored Textiles and Clothing:Medieval Finds from Excavations in London, c.1150-c.1450(Boydell Press, 2001). The topic is also thesubject of an annual series Medieval Clothing and Textiles (Boydell Press) edited by Robin Netherton andProfessor Gale R. Owen-Crocker of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester.Byzantium[edit source]Main articles: Byzantine dressandByzantine silkThe Byzantines made and exported very richly patterned cloth, woven and embroidered for the upperclasses, andresist-dyedandprintedfor the lower.[26] By Justinian's time the Roman toga had been replacedby the tunica, or long chiton, for both sexes, over which the upper classes wore various other garments,like a dalmatica (dalmatic), a heavier and shorter type of tunica; short and long cloakswere fastened on theright shoulder.Leggings and hose were often worn, but are not prominent in depictions of the wealthy; they wereassociated with barbarians, whether European or Persian.[27]

    Early medieval Europe[edit source]

    Edgar I of England in short tunic, hose, and cloak, 966Main articles: Early medieval European dress,Anglo-Saxon dress, andEnglish Medieval fashionEuropean dress changed gradually in the years 400 to 1100. People in many countries dressed differentlydepending on whether they identified with the old Romanised population, or the new invadingpopulations such asFranks,Anglo-Saxons, and Visigoths. Men of the invading peoples generally wore

    short tunics, with belts, and visible trousers,hoseor leggings. The Romanised populations, and theChurch, remained faithful to the longer tunics of Roman formal costume. [28]

    The elite imported silk cloth from the Byzantine, and later Muslim worlds, and also probably cotton. Theyalso could afford bleached linen and dyed and simply patterned wool woven in Europe itself. Butembroidered decoration was probably very widespread, though not usually detectable in art. Lower classeswore local or homespun wool, often undyed, trimmed with bands of decoration,variouslyembroidery, tablet-woven bands, or colorful borders woven into the fabric in the loom. [29][30]

    High middle ages and the rise of fashion[edit source]Main articles: 11001200 in fashion,12001300 in fashion, and13001400 in fashion

    14th-century Italian silk damasks

    Clothing in 12th and 13th century Europe remained very simple for both men and women, and quiteuniform across the subcontinent. The traditional combination of short tunic with hose for working-class menand long tunic with overgown for women and upper class men remained the norm. Most clothing,especially outside the wealthier classes, remained little changed from three or four centuries earlier. [31]

    The 13th century saw great progress in the dyeing and working of wool, which was by far the mostimportant material for outer wear. Linen was increasingly used for clothing that was directly in contact with

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Greekhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibulahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peploshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peploshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlamyshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloakhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiton_(costume)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloakhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himationhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Togahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tunichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sleevehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sleevehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stolahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stolahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shawlhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palla_(garment)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemphttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=12http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Agehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bronze_Agehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medievalhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medievalhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peat_bogshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peat_bogshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-23http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-23http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breecheshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breecheshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-24http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-24http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braidshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suebian_knothttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-25http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=13http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medieval_Europehttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=14http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Byzantine_dresshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Byzantine_dresshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Byzantine_silkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Byzantine_empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resist_dyeinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resist_dyeinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resist_dyeinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodblock_printinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodblock_printinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-26http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tunichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiton_(costume)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalmatichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloakhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-27http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=15http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edgar_I_of_Englandhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Early_medieval_European_dresshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anglo-Saxon_dresshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_Medieval_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_Medieval_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Migration_periodhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Migration_periodhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frankshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frankshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anglo-Saxonshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visigothshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tunichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-28http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroideryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tablet_weavinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-29http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Norse-30http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=16http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1100%E2%80%931200_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1100%E2%80%931200_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1200%E2%80%931300_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1300%E2%80%931400_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-31http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ItalianSilkDamask.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:New_Minster_Charter_966_detail_Edgar.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Greekhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibulahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peploshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlamyshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloakhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiton_(costume)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloakhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himationhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Togahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tunichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sleevehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stolahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shawlhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palla_(garment)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemphttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=12http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Agehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bronze_Agehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medievalhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peat_bogshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-23http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breecheshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-24http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braidshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suebian_knothttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-25http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=13http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medieval_Europehttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=14http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Byzantine_dresshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Byzantine_silkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Byzantine_empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resist_dyeinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodblock_printinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-26http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tunichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiton_(costume)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalmatichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloakhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-27http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=15http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edgar_I_of_Englandhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Early_medieval_European_dresshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anglo-Saxon_dresshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_Medieval_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Migration_periodhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Migration_periodhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frankshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anglo-Saxonshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visigothshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tunichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-28http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroideryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tablet_weavinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-29http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Norse-30http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=16http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1100%E2%80%931200_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1200%E2%80%931300_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1300%E2%80%931400_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-31
  • 7/27/2019 History of Clothing

    4/7

    the skin. Unlike wool, linen could be laundered and bleached in the sun. Cotton, imported raw from Egyptand elsewhere, was used for padding and quilting, and cloths such as buckramand fustian.Crusaders returning from the Levant brought knowledge of its fine textiles, including light silks, to WesternEurope. In Northern Europe, silk was an imported and very expensive luxury. [32] The well-off could affordwoven brocadesfrom Italy or even further afield. Fashionable Italian silks of this period featured repeatingpatterns of roundels and animals, deriving fromOttoman silk-weaving centres inBursa, and ultimatelyfrom Yuan Dynasty China via the Silk Road.[33]

    Cultural and costume historians agree that the mid-14th century marks the emergence of recognizable"fashion" in Europe.[34][35] From this century onwards Western fashion changes at a pace quite unknown to

    other civilizations, whether ancient or contemporary.[36] In most other cultures only major political changes,such as the Muslim conquest of India, produced radical changes in clothing, and in China, Japan, andtheOttoman Empire fashion changed only slightly over periods of several centuries.[37]

    In this period the draped garments and straight seams of previous centuries were replaced by curvedseams and the beginnings of tailoring, which allowed clothing to more closely fit the human form, as did theuse of lacing andbuttons.[38]A fashion formi-partiorparti-colouredgarments made of two contrastingfabrics, one on each side, arose for men in mid-century, [39]and was especially popular at the English court.Sometimes just the hose would be different colours on each leg.Renaissance and early modern period[edit source]

    Renaissance Europe[edit source]

    Bold floral patterned silks, 15th century.Main article:14001500 in fashionWool remained the most popular fabric for all classes, followed by linen and hemp. [33] Wool fabrics wereavailable in a wide range of qualities, from rough undyed cloth to fine, dense broadcloth with a velvety nap;high-value broadcloth was a backbone of the English economy and was exported throughout Europe.[40] Wool fabrics were dyed in rich colours, notably reds, greens, golds, and blues. [33]

    Silk-weaving was well established around the Mediterranean by the beginning of the 15th century, andfigured silks, often silk velvets with silver-gilt wefts, are increasingly seen in Italian dress and in the dress ofthe wealthy throughout Europe. Stately floral designs featuring a pomegranate orartichoke motif hadreached Europe from China in the previous century and became a dominant design in the Ottoman silk-producing cities ofIstanbul and Bursa, and spread to silk weavers in Florence,Genoa,Venice, ValenciaandSeville in this period.[33][41]

    As prosperity grew in the 15th century, the urban middle classes, including skilled workers, began to wearmore complex clothes that followed, at a distance, the fashions set by the elites. National variations inclothing increased over the century.[42]

    Early Modern Europe[edit source]Main articles: 15001550 in fashion,15501600 in fashion, 16001650 in fashion, and16501700 infashion

    Slashing at its height:Henry IV, Duke of Saxony, c. 1514.

    A French reinterpretation of Spanish fashion, with elaborate reticella ruff, 1609By the first half of the 16th century, the clothing of the Low Countries, German states, and Scandinavia had

    developed in a different direction than that of England, France, and Italy, although all absorbed thesobering and formal influence of Spanish dress after the mid-1520s. [43]

    Elaborate slashing was popular, especially in Germany. Black was increasingly worn for the most formaloccasions. Bobbin lace arose frompassementerie in the mid-16th century, probably inFlanders.[44] Thiscentury also saw the rise of the ruff, which grew from a mere ruffle at the neckline of the shirt or chemise toimmense cartwheel shapes. At their most extravagant, ruffs required wire supports and were made of fineItalianreticella, a cutwork linen lace.By the turn of the 17th century, a sharp distinction could be seen between the sober fashions favored byProtestants in England and the Netherlands, which still showed heavy Spanish influence, and the light,revealing fashions of the French and Italian courts.The great flowering ofneedlelace occurred in this period. Geometric reticella deriving from cutwork waselaborated into true needlelace orpunto in aria (called in England "point lace"), which reflected the

    scrolling floral designs popular for embroidery. Lacemaking centers were established in France to reducethe outflow of cash to Italy.[44][45][46]

    According to Dr. Wolf D. Fuhrig, "By the second half of the 17th century, Silesia had become an importanteconomic pillar of the Habsburg monarchy, largely on the strength of its textile industry."[47]

    Enlightenment and the Colonial period[edit source]

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckramhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckramhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fustianhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crusadeshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levanthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-32http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocadehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocadehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ottoman_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ottoman_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bursahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bursahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yuan_Dynastyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Koslin-33http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-34http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-35http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-36http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ottoman_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ottoman_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-37http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buttonhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buttonhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-38http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-38http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-38http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-39http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-39http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=17http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=18http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=18http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=18http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Koslin-33http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broadclothhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Crowfoot-40http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Koslin-33http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velvethttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wefthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pomegranatehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artichokehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artichokehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Istanbulhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bursahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florencehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genoahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genoahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valencia,_Spainhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sevillehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sevillehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Koslin-33http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-41http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Boucher-42http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=19http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1600%E2%80%931650_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1650%E2%80%931700_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1650%E2%80%931700_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_IV,_Duke_of_Saxonyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_IV,_Duke_of_Saxonyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-43http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bobbin_lacehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passementeriehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flandershttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flandershttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flandershttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-ReferenceA-44http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reticellahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reticellahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Needlelacehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-ReferenceA-44http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-45http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-46http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-47http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=20http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Isabella_Rubens.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Lucas_Cranach_d._%C3%84._042.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Edward_IV_Plantagenet.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckramhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fustianhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crusadeshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levanthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-32http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocadehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ottoman_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bursahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yuan_Dynastyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Koslin-33http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-34http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-35http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-36http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ottoman_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-37http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buttonhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-38http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-39http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=17http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=18http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Koslin-33http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broadclothhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Crowfoot-40http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Koslin-33http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velvethttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wefthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pomegranatehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artichokehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Istanbulhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bursahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florencehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genoahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valencia,_Spainhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sevillehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Koslin-33http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-41http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-Boucher-42http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=19http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1600%E2%80%931650_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1650%E2%80%931700_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1650%E2%80%931700_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_IV,_Duke_of_Saxonyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-43http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bobbin_lacehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passementeriehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flandershttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-ReferenceA-44http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reticellahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Needlelacehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-ReferenceA-44http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-45http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-46http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-47http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=20
  • 7/27/2019 History of Clothing

    5/7

    Main articles: 17001750 in fashionand17501795 in fashionDuring the eighteenth century, distinction was made between full dress worn at Court and for formaloccasions, and undress or everyday, daytime clothes. As the decades progressed, fewer and feweroccasions called for full dress which had all but disappeared by the end of the century. Full dress followedthe styles of the French court, where rich silks and elaborate embroidery reigned. Men continued to wearthecoat,waistcoatand breeches for both full dress and undress; these were now sometimes made of thesame fabric and trim, signalling the birth of the three-piece suit.Women's silhouettes featured small, domed hoopsin the 1730s and early 1740s, which were displaced forformal court wear by side hoops orpannierswhich later widened to as much as three feet to either side at

    the court ofMarie Antoinette. Fashion reached heights of fantasy and abundant ornamentation, before newenthusiasms for outdoor sports and country pursuits and a long-simmering movement toward simplicityand democratization of dress under the influence ofJean-Jacques Rousseau and theAmericanRevolutionled to an entirely new mode and the triumph of British woollen tailoring following the FrenchRevolution.For women's dresses, Indian cottons, especially printed chintzes, were imported to Europe in largenumbers, and towards the end of the period simple white muslin gowns were in fashion.Industrial revolution[edit source]

    This section requiresexpansion.(December 2007)

    Main article:Textile manufacture during the Industrial RevolutionDuring the industrial revolution, fabric production was mechanisedwith machines powered

    by waterwheels andsteam-engines. Production shifted from small cottage based production to massproduction based on assembly line organisation. Clothing production, on the other hand, continued to bemade by hand.Sewing machines emerged in the 19th century[48] streamlining clothing production.In the early 20th century workers in the clothing and textile industries became unionised. [49] Later in the20th century, the industry had expanded to such a degree that such educational institutions as UC Davisestablished a Division of Textiles and Clothing,[50]The University of Nebraska-Lincoln also created aDepartment of Textiles, Clothing and Design that offers a Masters of Arts in Textile History, [51]and IowaState University established a Department of Textiles and Clothing that features a History of costumecollection, 18651948.[52] Even high school libraries have collections on the history of clothing and textiles.[53]

    Alongside these developments were changes in the types and style of clothing produced. During the

    1960s, had a major influence on subsequent developments in the industry.[54]

    Textiles were not only made in factories. Before this that they were made in local and national markets.Dramatic change in transportation throughout the nation is one source that encouraged the use offactories. New advances such as steamboats, canals, and railroads lowered shipping costs which causedpeople to buy cheap goods that were produced in other places instead of more expensive goods that wereproduced locally. Between 1810 and 1840 the development of a national market prompted manufacturingwhich tripled the outputs worth. This increase in production created a change in industrial methods, suchas the use of factories instead of hand made woven materials that families usually made. [55]

    The vast majority of the people who worked in the factories were women. Women went to work in textilefactories for a number of reasons. Some women left home to live on their own because of crowding athome; or to save for future marriage portions. The work enabled them to see more of the world, to earnsomething in anticipation of marriage, and to ease the crowding within the home. They also did it to make

    money for family back home. The money they sent home was to help out with the trouble some of thefarmers were having. They also worked in the millhouses because they could gain a sense ofindependence and growth as a personal goal.[56]

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1700%E2%80%931750_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1700%E2%80%931750_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1750%E2%80%931795_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coat_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coat_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waistcoathttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waistcoathttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waistcoathttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breecheshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suit_(clothes)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marie_Antoinettehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rococohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean-Jacques_Rousseauhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_Revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_Revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chintzhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=21http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edithttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edithttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_manufacture_during_the_Industrial_Revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_manufacture_during_the_Industrial_Revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Industrial_revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanisedhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanisedhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterwheelhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam-enginehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam-enginehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_machinehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-48http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-49http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-50http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-50http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-51http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-51http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-52http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-53http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-54http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-55http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-56http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Wiki_letter_w_cropped.svghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1700%E2%80%931750_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1750%E2%80%931795_in_fashionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coat_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waistcoathttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breecheshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suit_(clothes)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marie_Antoinettehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rococohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean-Jacques_Rousseauhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_Revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_Revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chintzhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edit&section=21http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=History_of_clothing_and_textiles&action=edithttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_manufacture_during_the_Industrial_Revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Industrial_revolutionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanisedhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterwheelhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam-enginehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_machinehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-48http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-49http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-50http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-51http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-52http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-53http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-54http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-55http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles#cite_note-56
  • 7/27/2019 History of Clothing

    6/7

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ItalianSilkDamask.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:New_Minster_Charter_966_detail_Edgar.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChitonAndHimation.gifhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Woven_silk,_Western_Han_Dynasty.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Maler_der_Grabkammer_der_Nefertari_004.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Meister_nach_Chang_Hs%C3%BCan_001.jpg
  • 7/27/2019 History of Clothing

    7/7

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Isabella_Rubens.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Lucas_Cranach_d._%C3%84._042.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Edward_IV_Plantagenet.jpg