Historic Environment Survey National Trust Northumberland ... · Historic Environment Survey – National Trust Northumberland Coast – Farne Islands Archaeo-Environment Ltd for

Historic Environment Survey – National Trust Northumberland Coast – Farne Islands

Archaeo-Environment Ltd for The National Trust 0



Acknowledgements

We would like to thank all the wardens on the Farne Island, particularly the head warden,

David Steel, and his colleague Jason, for all their help. They were always informative,

knowledgeable and good humoured despite the logistics of boats, weather and poor phone

reception. We also extend our thanks to the staff at the Northumberland Record Office at

Woodhorn for their help and prompt service and to Liz Williams at Northumberland County

Council who is always friendly and quick to respond to enquires, often a quite short notice. As

ever, we are grateful to Harry Beamish of the National Trust for facilitating the project and

providing supplementary information and expertise; as well as to Nigel Davis and Alison Lane

for SMR data and mapping.

Report Author: Penny Middleton

Mapping: Penny Middleton

Editing: Caroline Hardie

‘After this, Cuthbert, as he grew in goodness and intensity of devotion, attained also to a

hermit’s life of contemplation in silence and solitude…when he was about to go to the island,

he declared to the brothers, "If by the grace of God it shall be granted to me, that I may live in

that place by the labour of my hands, I will willingly abide there; but if not, God willing, I will

very soon return to you. The place was quite destitute of water, corn, and trees; and being

infested by evil spirits, was very ill suited for human habitation; but it became in all respects

habitable, at the desire of the man of God;"

CHAP. XXVIII AD 676 from Bede’s Ecclesiastical History, 261

Plate 1: View out towards Staple Island from Brownsman as a weather front begins to move in.



CONTENTS

Acknowledgements 1

Introduction and Summary 4

Scope of Work 5

Aims and Objectives 7

Statutory and non Statutory Constraints 7

Landscape Character 9

Physical Influences 10

Wider Historic Landscape and Cultural Influences 11

Nature of Archaeological Evidence 34

Previous Archaeological and Historical Research 46

Recommendations for Further Research 48

Statement of Significance 49

Management Issues and Recommendations 52

Gazetteer 57

Bibliography 89

LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 1 Location of National Trust landholdings on the Farne Islands

Figure 2 The Farne islands in profile.

Figure 3 King Egfrid d.685 landing on the Farne Islands to Summon Cuthbert to Become a

Bishop’ painted by William Bell Scott 1861.

Figure 4 Details from Speed's map of Farne 1611

Figure 5 Extract from Armstrong map of the Farnes 1776

Figure 6 The Pinnacle lighthouse on Staple and the tower on Brownsman built by Blackett

(Hague & Christie 1975, 82)

Figure 7 Survey undertaken by James Russell (builder) of the Farne lighthouse 1807(NRO

0530-20-035).

Figure 8 Images of High and Low Light from a mid 19th century Admiralty map (NRO-722-

A-4)

Figure 9 Early 19th century etching of ‘Fern Islands’ showing Brownsman lighthouse

(16065) in the foreground with the adjacent tower (16055) and Staple Pinnacle

beacon in the middle distance (16058)

Figure 10: Extract from Fryer’s map of 1820 showing the four (five) Farne lighthouses

Figure 11 Extract from 19th century Admiralty chart showing the Farne Islands

Figure 12 Images of Grace Darling

Figure 13 A bird watching picnic on Inner Farne in the late 18th century; thankfully not a rifle

in sight (NRO ZMD 163-02)



Figure 14 Inner Farne Group Detail from First Edition OS map (1848)

Figure 15 Outer Farne Group Details from First Edition OS (1848)

Figure 16 First Edition OS map (1848) showing all Landholdings on the Farne Islands

Figure 17 Inner Farne Group Details from Second Edition OS map (1898)

Figure 18 Third Edition OS map (1919) showing all Landholdings on the Farne Islands

Figure 19a HER sites identified across the National Trust landholdings on Farne - Inner

Farne Group

Figure 19b HER sites identified across the National Trust landholdings on Farne - Outer

Farne Group

Figure 20: Early 19th century map of Inner Farne (source not specified (NT 1986, 1))

Figure 21: Two 19th century paintings: the first by a naturalistic rendition of the Pinnacle by

the artist William Arnold Woodhouse, and the second the dramatic rescue by

Grace Darling by J.W. Carmichael

LIST OF TABLES

Table 1: National Trust Landholdings on the Farne Islands

Table 2: Listed Buildings on the Farne Islands

Table 3: Previous work undertaken on the Farne Islands



Introduction and Summary

‘The usual place for embarkation for the Farnes is the little harbour at Sea-houses, North

Sunderland, about three miles south of Bamburgh. Here a boat may be secured for fifteen

shillings. In addition to this charge the boatmen expect to be provided with refreshments, solid

and liquid. With a fine day and a smooth sea, no excursion can be more delightful’.

Tomlinson W.W. (1888) `Guide to Northumberland'’, 465

The Farne Islands comprise 28 islands off the coast of Northumberland; many of which are just

bare rock submerged at high tide (Graham 1972, 3). The National Trust holds 21 of the 28

islands; the largest being Inner Farne (6.8 hectares), Brownsman (5.84 hectares) and Staple

(4.64 hectares), and the smallest being Blue Caps at just 0.02 hectares.

Table 1: of National trust Landholding on the Farne Islands

Island Hectares

Inner Farne 6.80

Brownsman 5.84

Staple 4.64

Longstone 3.20

West Wideopen 3.06.

North Wamses 2.97

Big Harcar 2.39

East Wideopen 1.92

South Wamses 1.34

Knoxes Reef 1.02

Northern Hares 0.89

Solan Rock 0.70

Megstone 0.33

Humber Rock 0.23

Roddam & Green 0.21

Big Scarcar 0.20

Little Harcar 0.20

Little Scarcar 0.11

The Sandbags 0.08

Clove Car 0.08

Blue Caps 0.02

Total Hectares 36.23

The Farnes have always been closely linked with the lives of the early English saints, St Aidan

and St. Cuthbert, both of whom sought out the wildness and the solitude of the islands for prayer

and religious contemplation. Later Inner Farne became the focus of a Benedictine monastic



house following the teaching of Cuthbert and offering a sanctuary to visiting pilgrims. In latter

years, alongside the birds and seals, the primary residents of the area were the lighthouse

keepers. There is believed to have been a lighthouse on Inner Farne, warning shipping of the

dangers of these hazardous rocks, since the reign of Charles II. However, today the earliest

surviving evidence is the two beacons built on Staple and Brownsman by Mr J Blackett in the late

18th century. In the 19th century new, modern lighthouses were constructed on Inner Farne,

Brownsman and Longstone. It was from the latter that Grace Darling and her father launched their

boat on September 7th 1838 to go to the rescue of the stricken steamship Forfarshire, which

became one of the most daring sea rescues of the age and captured the imagination and the

hearts of the Victorian public.

Today the Islands are a National Trust Nature Sanctuary – the Farne Islands Sanctuary – and

home to a wide variety of seabirds including kittiwakes, guillemots and puffins, as well as a colony

Atlantic Grey Seals. It is visited each year by over 45,000 visitors who make the 30 minute boat

trip over from Seahouses.1 Only Inner Farne and Staple are open to the public, the other islands

being visited only by the National Trust Wardens who monitor the wildlife and live on the island for

much of the year. Both islands are open from the 1st April to the 31 October, with staggered

opening hours (mornings and afternoons) between the beginning of May and the end of July.

Scope of Work

This survey deals predominantly with the three larger islands, where there is the greatest

evidence of human occupation. There will be some reference to the smaller islands as

appropriate, and they are included in the gazetteer, but no fieldwork was undertaken. The report

also deals only with the archaeology and history of the Farnes and does not cover the wildlife or

the development of the study of natural history except where it has a broader impact.

1 Citing online reference > http://www.northumberland-coast.co.uk/farne_islands.php, 06/10/10

http://www.northumberland-coast.co.uk/farne_islands.php





Aims and Objectives

This survey work, commissioned for the Farne Islands, is to the National Trust’s Level Three

standard. This is a level of survey which combines field work with documentary research,

resulting in a comprehensive survey report of all historic environment features (National Trust

2000). It also outlines recommendations for management and future research for both individual

features and the landscape as a whole.

A range of sources were consulted as part of the preliminary documentary review including:

historic Ordnance Survey (OS) maps, land deeds, estate papers, Dean & Chapter accounts,

census data, aerial photographs, county histories and other secondary source material. In search

of this information the following repositories were consulted:

The Northumberland Historic Environment Record (HER)

The National Trust Sites and Monument Record (NTSMR)

The National Monuments Record (NMR)

Northumberland County Archives (NRO)

Various online sources as referenced.

Additional material was also provided by the National Trust Archaeologist, Harry Beamish.

Fieldwork was conducted over two days - Inner Farne in October 2009, and Brownsman/Staple

August 2010. In advance of the survey all the available mapping was printed out and the known

archaeological sites plotted. A systematic survey was then made of the three islands during which

the known sites were assessed and potential new sites plotted. Each site was photographed and

allocated an identification number, and a six figure grid reference was taken using a hand-held

GPS which should provide an accuracy level of within 3m. Every attempt was made to show each

site in context in order to help relocate it again in the future. Notes on condition, potential risks

and land use were also made in the field and are submitted as part of the accompanying archive.

Statutory and non Statutory Constraints

Scheduled Monument

The majority of Inner Farne is a Scheduled Monument (SM No. 24642), described as a ‘pre-

conquest monastic cell and post-conquest monastic settlement’. The only area not included in the

designation is that within the Lighthouse enclosure (16052). This land is not owned by the

National Trust but by Trinity House.

As a Scheduled site, written consent must always be obtained from English Heritage before any

work on either the land or buildings is undertaken; this would include fencing, drainage, erecting



signage, laying new paths and bringing areas into cultivation, as well as more radical changes.

Some types of work - generally related to agriculture or gardening, where these activities are

already being carried out2 - are allowed to go ahead without consent. If there is any doubt, or in

advance of any new work, it is best to seek guidance from the National Trust Archaeologist.

Listed Buildings

As well as forming part of the Scheduled Monument, Prior Castell's Tower (10452) is a Grade I

listed building (LB No. 5/176) and St Cuthbert’s Chapel (10450) is Grade II* (LB No. 5/172).

Other buildings on the site are Grade II (see Table 2), and include the stone coffin (10453) in the

courtyard. Any work that might affect the character of a Listed Building, both inside and out,

including anything which might impact the immediate curtilage of a structure would require Listed

Building Consent. Curtilage would include all three of the courtyard areas on Inner Farne (16061-

3) and the gardens (16057 & 16093) adjacent to the lighthouse on Brownsman. On Inner Farne,

Scheduled Monument legislation takes precedence over Listed Building controls. Again, advice

should be sought from the National Trust Archaeologist in advance of any work.

Table 2: Listed Buildings on the Farne Islands

Name Island LB No Grade

Brownsman Beacon and Cottage (16055-6) Brownsman 5/171 II

Prior Castell’s Tower (10452) Inner Farne 5/176 I

St Cuthbert’s Chapel (10450) Inner Farne 5/172 II*

St Mary’s Chapel (10451) Inner Farne 5/175 II

The Font Inner Farne 5/174 II

High Light Lighthouse (16052) Inner Farne 5/177 II

Stone Courtyard in Courtyard (10453) Inner Farne 5/173 II

The Font (10471) Inner Farne 5/174 II

Longstone Lighthouse (16054) Longstone 5/178 II

Natural Environment Designations

Farne is renowned as a haven for a wide range of wildlife, and it is this combination of the natural

and historic environment which makes the islands one of the most well loved and treasured

places in the country. Given the ecological significance of the islands, particularly to marine

habitat, it is not surprising that they are protected by a broad raft of natural environment

designations. All of the islands have been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI)

due to the importance and variety of the habitat. Further, they are also a National Nature Reserve

(NNR); one of 224 sites across the country selected as being of particular significance and

awarded extensive protection. The importance of the islands in terms of the breeding, feeding,

wintering and the migration of rare and vulnerable species of birds is similarly recognised by their

2 For additional information see > http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/protecting/heritage-protection/what-can-we-

protect/scheduled-monuments/what-can-be-scheduled/



designation as a Special Protection Area (SPA) under the European Bird’s Directive - 79/409/EEC

(April 1979). 3 The Islands are also subject to the Wild Birds (Farne Islands Sanctuary) Order of

1980 (NT 1986, 9).

The island lies within the Northumberland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and is part of the

Heritage Coast. The primary purpose of the AONB legislation is to conserve and enhance natural

beauty. The term ‘natural’ beauty is defined as being ‘…not just the look of the landscape, but

includes landform and geology, plants and animals, landscape features and the rich history of

human settlement over centuries.’4 Heritage Coast is a non-statutory definition and is designed to

cover the most unspoilt areas of undeveloped coastline around England and Wales. The main

purpose of the Heritage Coast definition is to conserve the natural beauty of the coastline and,

where appropriate, improve accessibility for visitors. In addition, Heritage Coasts are designed to

maintain the environmental health of inshore waters. 5

Although not directly related to the conservation of the historic environment, natural environment

designations can have direct implications on the management of the archaeological resource. In

the first instance, the implementation of any remedial or conservation work on an archaeological

feature would need to take into consideration any potential impact on a designated environmental

site - both direct and indirect – this might be a particular issue on the Farne Islands where flora

and fauna are so carefully protected and balanced. Likewise, the conservation of the natural

environment has the capacity to conflict with the conservation of historic sites in particular

changes to drainage, introduction of ponds or the management of puffin burrows and nesting

areas.

Landscape Character

The Farne Islands are the easternmost outcrop of the Great Whin Sill, a volcanic rock (dolerite)

that stretches for 70 to 80 miles from Teesdale through Durham and Northumberland to the sea.

They have a unique and specific landscape character of their own which is largely dependant on

the physical features of the whin. The outcrop slopes from south-east to north-west and as a

consequence many of the islands, including Inner Farne, have a wedge like appearance from a

distance. The cliffs are highest on the south and west side of each island with the land mass

sloping gently down to rocky beaches on the north and east sides. The exposure of the islands,

and the constant buffeting by the sea, makes for a wild, hostile and barren landscape devoid of

trees or indigenous shrubs except for a few stunted and blasted elder bushes on Inner Farne and

Brownsman. It was the harshness and isolation of the landscape ‘very ill-suited to human

3 For details on designations see > http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/ourwork/conservation/designatedareas/default.aspx

4 Northumberland Coast AONB & Berwickshire and North Northumberland Coast EMS Management Plan draft 2009, 3

5 Countryside Commission 1992 CCP 397



habitation’ which first drew Aidan and Cuthbert to the island. The monastic community which

followed have left their mark on Inner Farne but elsewhere signs of human occupation are sparse.

Physical Influences

The whin is an intrusive sheet of dolerite intruded into the Carboniferous rocks in the interval

between the Middle Coal measures and the Upper Brockram of the Permian period (Watt 1951,

47). There is an extensive exposure of whin across all of the islands but on Brownsman, Staple,

Inner Farne and West Wideopen glaciation has resulted in the deposition of a thin covering of

reddish clay which reaches depths of 4m in places although on average is just 1m thick. On top of

the clay sub-soil there is a layer of light peaty soil which is enriched by bird droppings and

honeycombed by puffin and rabbit burrows (although attempts have been made to eradicate the

latter) (NT 1986, 7). This meagre covering of fertile soil has allowed settlement on the islands and

there is evidence of cultivation, albeit very limited. On Inner Farne there is evidence of ridge and

furrow (10458) associated with the medieval monastic settlement, and on Brownsman and Staple

there are the remains of small garden enclosures, or kaleyards, tended by lighthouse keepers

Figure 2: The Farne islands in profile. The islands comprise an outcrop of the Great Whin Sill,

each with a distinct wedge shaped running south-east to north-west. 6

There are two main groups of islands – the Inner and Outer Farnes - separated by the mile-wide

Staple Sound, and two outlying islands – the Crumstone to the east, and Megstone to the west.

The group look very different whether at low or high water with many of the islands completely

covered or separated by the tide. At low water it is relatively easy to cross between the islands

within each group but at high tide these journeys are only possible by boat. This would have had

an impact on the way the land was utilised although the greatest natural factor determining

settlement would have been the presence of soil and the size of the land mass. The largest

6 Citing online reference ‘The farnes ‘ > http://www.dcordes.freeuk.com/farnes.htm, accessed 07/10/10

http://www.dcordes.freeuk.com/farnes.htm



islands are Inner Farne, Brownsman, Staple, Longstone, the Wamses and the Wideopens which

all have some evidence of occupation, all be it sparse, while the smaller rocks are largely barren.

There are no natural trees and those that hang onto a meagre existence on Brownsman and

Inner Farne were introduced by the lighthouse keepers to provide windbreaks for their gardens.

The most prolific vegetation is Sea Campion which thrives on the light peaty soil and has all but

exterminated the grass on Brownsman and Staple, although on Inner Farne it still thrives on the

east side of the island (Watts 1951).

Inner Farne is the largest of the islands covering 6.8ha of which only about 2.5ha are habitable,

the rest being bare rock. The landform slopes down from the high cliffs to the south and west of

the island to the rocky shores of the north-east, although there is a steep to drop down from the

headland to St Cuthbert’s cove, a protected sandy enclave which has for centuries served as the

island’s harbour (16065).

The main landing area on Brownsman is Pinnacle Haven (16081), above which rises the steep

cliffs which dominate the south-east and north-western sides of the island. The land tilts north-

east towards Brownsman Haven which was that predominantly used by the islands lighthouse

keepers. Brownsman is separated from its closest neighbour, Staple, by a channel known as

Brownsman’s Gut but at low tide the islands are connected by a large expanse of deeply fissured

whin which can be crossed by foot. Staple also tilts south-east and west towards the north-east,

with a central area covered by a thin layer of peaty soil.

Beyond Lindisfarne Castle – the Wider Historic Landscape and Cultural Influences

Prehistoric

‘In early times the Inner Farne was probably inhabited by a race of small ugly, dark, long-headed

people whose tiny flint harpoons and arrow-heads have been found on the mainland links and

also on the islands. With the advent of the hermits, these primitive peoples were driven from the

Farne Islands (or Inner Farne as it is now called) and settled on the neighbouring ‘Wedoms’

(Wideopens)…By the twelfth century they were extinct, and remembered only as demons who,

‘clad in cowls and riding upon goats, black in complexion, short in statue, their countenances

most hideous, their heads long’, had terrified the brethren’

Watts (1951) `The Farne Islands'’, 15

The wonderfully macabre images of the first occupants of the Farne Islands detailed in the above

extract unfortunately owes far more to the allegorical rhetoric of the writer of the 12th century ‘Life

of Bartholomew’ than it does to any archaeological evidence. The earlier history of Bede, writing

in the 8th century, makes no mention of these strange peoples but only of ‘evil spirits’ which



resided on the islands and were cast out by the saint (Bede, Trans 1985, 261). The later author’s

embellishment probably has more to do with appealing to an audience brought up on an oral

tradition of beasts and gore than it does to historical accuracy. The use of what would have been

widely recognised as demonography would also have served to stress the ‘godliness’ of the

vanquishing saint. In addition, such images may well have been conjured up from the screaming

winds and crashing waves of the island by the over active minds of the monks deprived of food,

heat and sleep. The reality of the early human history of the islands is unfortunately much less

florid.

There is in reality very little evidence of prehistoric activity on the Farne Islands. Two Mesolithic

flints were reported in 1923 but the location of these is now unknown. The first (16098), found on

Staple, was described as ‘a small triangular fragment’, which showed signs of secondary

percussion on the cutting edge, and the second (16099) was a ‘single flint flake showing the bulb

of percussion ‘ found on Inner Farne. Given that flint is not native to the islands these are likely to

be credible finds and probably brought by prehistoric hunting parties. Prior to about 8,500 years

ago the lower sea levels may have meant that the Farnes were hills on a wider coastal plain that

subsequently became submerged to create the islands of today. Given the inhospitable nature of

the islands once sea levels rose, and the scarcity of their natural resources, there would have

been little to attract settlement in the area prior to the foundation of the hermitages of St Aidan

and St Cuthbert in the 7th century AD. These men were attracted by the harshness and isolation

of life on the island, but these were the very qualities which would have made it inhospitable to all

of those not driven by a religious fervour.

On the mainland there is considerable evidence of prehistoric activity and the coastal plain was

probably one of the first areas to be settled in Northumberland. The additional resources brought

in by the sea, plus the ease of communication along a relatively flat coastal plain, would have

made this area more attractive than inland uplands. Such early settlements were probably

seasonal. Recent excavations at Howick have uncovered what is believed to be a Mesolithic

house probably forming part of a winter camp, with expeditions to the uplands in the summer for

hunting (Waddington 2007). During the containment of winter months, when food was scarce, the

Farne seals would have been an inviting prospect, weather permitting, to a Mesolithic hunter.

Similarly, during the breeding season the meat and eggs of puffins and other birds would have

proven a tempting source of easily catchable protein.

Later, in the Neolithic period, as more settled communities grew up with the spread of agriculture,

the fertile soil of the coastal plain attracted the first farmers and there is an increase in evidence of

prehistoric activity on the mainland. The majority of Neolithic (4000BC to 2500BC) and Bronze

Age (2500BC to 800BC) evidence comes from burial sites which become more apparent in the

archaeological record as communities became more settled and focused. At nearby Seahouses,

a stone-lined grave (NCC 5901), containing a burial and three pots dating to the Bronze Age, was



found in the yard of the Blue Bell Inn (now Croft House) in the last century. Believed to be of the

same date, eight burials with grave goods were also found within the area of what is now the

Seahouses Caravan Park (NCC 5903). A standing stone also reputedly stood in the same area,

although now lost, and a prehistoric carved rock was found nearby. Prehistoric rock art of this

type is generally believed to be Neolithic in date suggesting some continuity of settlement in the

area (Archaeo-Environment 2009a, 9,)

It is a similar picture further along the coast at Lindisfarne where various stray finds of prehistoric

date (NCC 5344, 20738, 5350) have been recovered from around Holy Island. At Nessend quarry

(NCC 5360) a concentration of material has been identified which seems to point toward this

being a flint and stone tool production used from the Mesolithic to the Bronze Age periods

(Archaeo-Environment 2009b, 10-11). There is also rare evidence of prehistoric settlement on

Holy island found during the excavation of Marygate in 1995 (NCC 5395). This uncovered a

number of features dated to 3365 to 3685 BC including the remains of a possible Neolithic

structure (The Archaeological Practice 1996, 7).

Iron Age and Roman

There is no evidence of Iron Age (700BC-AD43) or Roman (AD43-410) activity on the islands and

across the coastal plain evidence or these periods in general is quite sparse. At Dunstanburgh

there seems to have been an Iron Age promontory fort pre-dating the medieval castle and

evidence for a second defended settlement has been found at nearby Craster Heights (NCC

5667). Material of a Roman date was also uncovered at Dunstanburgh during excavations within

the castle compound, although nothing directly indicating settlement. Further afield at Scrog Hill

(NT SMR 13107) a Romano-British or Iron Age enclosure has been recorded (Archaeo-

Environment 2009c, 17-18). However, closer to the Islands the evidence is even more paltry

comprising solely of two pieces of Roman pottery fished out of a midden on Lindisfarne

(NCC5343). Settlement no doubt continued in some form along the coast during this period but it

has left very little evidence in the archaeological record. Similarly, the Farne Islands were

probably still being visited by those hunting for birds and seals; sources of meat, eggs and oil.

Early Medieval

It is not until the Early Medieval or Anglo-Saxon period that there is any real evidence of

settlement on the Farne Islands. Bede recounts that Aidan first settled on Inner Farne in 651 ‘At

that time, the most reverend Bishop Aidan was dwelling in the Isle of Fame… for thither he was

wont often to retire to pray in solitude and silence; and, indeed, this lonely dwelling of his is to this

day shown in that island’ (Bede trans. 1985,167). The historian subsequently recounts that

Aidan’s cell was still standing when Cuthbert retired to the island some 25 years later in 676.

Aidan had been sent from the Irish monastery on Iona at the request of King Oswald to help

convert the pagan Northumbrians and established the first monastery on Lindisfarne c. 635.



‘ There is a certain island called Farne, in the middle of the sea, not made an island, like

Lindisfarne, by the flow of the tide, which the Greeks call rheuma, and then restored to the

mainland at its ebb, but lying off several miles to the East, and, consequently, surrounded on all

sides by the deep and boundless ocean’.

Bede’s Life of St Cuthbert (Trans. 1910)

St Cuthbert had transferred to Lindisfarne from the monastery in Mailros (Melrose) in 644. While

at Mailros accounts tell that he had led an austere life of constant prayer, fasting and mortification

of the flesh, a lifestyle he apparently continued to follow during his twelve years at Lindisfarne.

However, Cuthbert constantly sought isolation in an attempt to get closer to God and finally retired

to Inner Farne where Bede tells us the brethren helped him ‘build a tiny dwelling surrounded by a

ditch and such essential buildings as an oratory and communal shelter’ (Bede trans. 1985, 261).

In the ‘Life of St Cuthbert', he describes the dwelling in more detail as being round in shape and

approximately 4 to 5 poles from wall to wall and made of local stone and turf. The outside walls

were higher than man but the interior was excavated into the rock in order that it was much

deeper inside than out; this was to ‘prevent the eyes and the thoughts from wandering, that the

mind might be wholly bent on heavenly things’ (Bede trans. 1910). The roof of the cell itself was

of dried grass and rough poles and divided in two with one side being the oratory and the other a

living area. In addition Bede recounts that Cuthbert also ordered a large house, or hospitium, to

be constructed near the landing place where the brethren could stay. This is believed to have

been on the foundation of what is now known as the ‘fishe house’ (10456).

The island was described as having ‘no water, corn or trees’ although Cuthbert asked for farming

implements and wheat to be brought to him so he could grow crops to support himself. However,

despite his best attempts the corn failed to prosper so the following season he planted barley

which ‘quickly sprang up, and gave the man of God the much desired opportunity to support

himself by his own labour’ (Bede trans. 1985, 262).

Figure 3: ‘King Egfrid (d.685) landing on the

Farne Islands to Summon Cuthbert to

Become a Bishop’ painted by William Bell

Scott 1861.



After nine years on the island Cuthbert was elected bishop of Lindisfarne, an honour he initially

vehemently refused until King Egfrid, accompanied my a number of nobles and high ranking

members of the clergy, apparently visited the island and begged him on their knees to accept. He

was consecrated Bishop of Lindisfarne in York on the first day of Easter 685. During the next two

years he devoted himself to his Episcopal duties but shortly before Christmas 686 returned once

more to Inner Farne, convinced that his life was drawing near to its end. There we are told he

died, just before midnight on the 20th March 687. He had wanted to be buried in his cell on Inner

Farne but eventually yielded to the desires of his monks to bury his remains in the monastic

church on Lindisfarne. Apparently news of his death was transferred to the mainland by the

monks lighting a beacon on the cliffs where later a medieval cross was erected (10463) although

this has since disappeared.

Following Cuthbert’s death a succession of hermits lived on the island. The first was Ethelward of

Ripon who lived on Inner Farne from 687 until he died in 699 and was buried in the church on

Lindisfarne (Watts 1951, 22). Then followed Felgeld under whom the oratory was apparently

restored but after this little is known and by the 12th century, when Simeon of Durham was writing,

the island had apparently lost much of its religious character and was being occupied by laymen,

the oratory becoming a sheepfold (ibid, 22).

The Medieval Period

The names of the various islands were already well established by the 12th century and many had

appeared in the documentary records some time before this. Most of the names are Old English

in origin, as might be expected, and the majority were first recorded in a 9th century manuscript

(Watts 1951, 33). Farne itself is derived from the Old Irish ferann meaning ‘domain’ and the Old

English ealand or island (Mills 2003, 186). Brownsman was originally known as ‘Fossheland’ from

the Old English Fosse a ditch, possibly referring to Brownsman Gut which divided the island from

Staple. However, by the 16th century it had become Brownsman, based undoubtedly on a

personal name. Staple was originally ‘Stapheleland’ maybe from the Old English stapol – a pillar

of stone in reference to the Pinnacle. The Wideopens are said to be derived from ‘Wedoms’ the

place described in the ‘Life of St Bartholomew’ where the monks buried dead sailors (Watts 1951,

33). ‘Longstone, or ‘Langestand’ as it appears in the 9th century, is descriptive, while the origin of

the Wamses remains a mystery but may be derived from a personal name.

By 1135 the religious presence on Inner Farne had been somewhat restored by the monk Elwin

who retired to the island and re-established the monastic cell. He was later joined by

Bartholomew in about 1150, but the two monks quarrelled and Elwin left. The present day

wardens who spend months on end living in close proximity with each other, away from the

outside world, can probably appreciate how thin the tempers of even the most pious of men must

have become after a while!



It was during this period that the Vikings were ravaging the coast of Northumberland, and King

Eistan of Norway was said to have occupied Inner Farne, destroying much of the hermitage.

Reginald of Durham, writing in 1167, tells how eventually the invaders were forced to leave when

the two wells on the island dried up, but that after the island was restored to Bartholomew the

water flowed freely again (Watts, 1951, 23).

Bartholomew was eventually joined by Thomas, an ex-prior of Durham, who had resigned his

office in 1163 in protest at the tyranny of Bishop Puiset. Again the two hermits argued and

Bartholomew this time returned to Durham only to return a year later. In the ‘Life of St

Bartholomew’, an account believed to have been written soon after the monk’s death, there is a

description of the Farnes at this time:

‘of the adjacent islands one supplies hay, another fuel, another (which is the nearest) serves as a

burial place for shipwrecked sailors. Here demons are believed to reside, who were compelled by

St Cuthbert to quit the island’ (Graham, 1972, 3).

However, this account should probably not be given too much credibility as it goes on to describe

the ‘long headed’ fiends who once occupied island as discussed above. Given the soil coverage

of the islands, and the warmer climate of the time, it is possible that hay might have grown on

Brownsman or Staple but these are not adjacent to Inner Farne. However grass does grow on

Wideopen and that may have been what was meant by ‘hay’. It is also a mystery as to what type

of fuel the other island would have provided. It could not have been wood, coal, or peat and

presumably fuel for cooking would have had to have been brought from the mainland.

Bartholomew died in 1193 and was buried in the oratory on the island, apparently carving his own

sarcophagus before his death. Some years later, Inner Farne was occupied by the last of the its

hermits, Thomas de Melsonby, who had been elected Prior of Durham against the wishes of

Henry III. He had remained Prior from 1233 to 1244, building the great chapel of the Nine Altars,

but the wrath of the king did not subside and he eventually retired to Farne partly for his own

safety. He remained on the island for two years until his death in 1246. After Thomas’s death the

monastic cell on Farne became a permanent institution inhabited by two monks of the Benedictine

order (10455) (Graham 1972, 4). One of the monks was the ‘Magister’, or master, while the other

was entitled his ‘Socius’, or associate. The first master appointed was Dominus Alex in 1255

(Watt 1951, 24).

The House of Farne was eventually to become quite wealthy. Records show that the monks

exploited the agriculture of the area, growing crops on Inner Farne, evidence of which survives

today in the ridge and furrow still clearly visible on aerial photographs (10458). The account roll of

1370-1 recorded that 5 acres of land was being cultivated on the island. It also noted that the

monks kept livestock – 1 bull, 2 cows, a horse, a pig, 4 sheep, 6 capons, 6 hens, and a cock –



some of which may have been pastured on the nearby West Wideopen. In addition the monks

also fished, collected bird’s eggs and hunted seals. Seals were a valuable commodity in medieval

England and fetched a high price, with six ‘celys’ being sold in 1371 for 27s 4d. As ‘creatures of

the sea’, they were classed as fish and therefore could be eaten on a Friday, and their oil was

also an important by-product. The monks also brought in an income from wrecks which were a

regular occurrence in the treacherous waters around the islands. In 1357 there is a record of the

monks borrowing 40s upon the credit of a wreck not yet broken up (Graham 1972, 4). The income

from these sources was spent on the purchase of food, grain, fishing tackle, boats and oars and

the upkeep of the buildings (Watts 1951, 27). However, Cuthbert would no doubt have turned in

his grave if he had seen the frippery the monks also spent their wealth upon which included 45s

spent on a horalogium, a form of clock, and a very rare item in the 14th century. Like many

monastic houses the reputation of the house slid further into corruption in the 15th century and in

1443 the master of the house was dismissed for pawning the best chalice and silver spoons (ibid,

4).

The number of monks in the community at any one time varied from two to as many as six, in

addition to which there was at least one layman and a servant. There was also a steady stream of

pilgrims onto the island who came to pay homage at the scene of St Cuthbert’s death. The

pilgrims brought with them a further source of income, frequently bestowing gifts and money on

the house.

A series of buildings were constructed

during the life of the monastery including

the two churches of St Cuthbert (10450)

and St Mary (10451), the hospitium

(10456), Courtyards (16061-2) and Prior

Castell’s Tower (10452). The latter was

the most recent of the monastic buildings,

built for the purpose of defence by

Thomas Castell, Prior of Durham from

1494 to 1519. It was finished around

1500. Speed’s map of Farne, made in

1611, just 75 years after the Dissolution,

clearly showed the arrangement of the

former monastery. Characteristically, the

features of the map were somewhat distorted and the tower actually looks like a hall with

chimneys rather than a Tower House, but this was probably artistic licence. The two chapels were

depicted, as well as the adjoining dividing wall (10473) between the Tower and East Courtyards

which today only survives as footings. The ‘fishe house’ shown close to the harbour, is thought to

Figure 4: Detail of Speed's map of Farne 1611



be the ‘Hall of St Cuthbert’ a guest house built of stone with a thatched roof described in the

account roll of 1360-61. This replaced the old hospitium built by Cuthbert on the same spot. This

was reputed to still be in existence during the time of Bartholomew.

In 1536 the Dissolution brought about the end of the House of Farne and the island was handed

over to the Dean and Chapter of Durham. Like its sister house on the mainland, Farne had been

a centre for art and learning. The scriptorium is believed to have produced a number of

manuscripts but unfortunately only one of these survives today, the ‘Meditaciones cuiusdam

monachi apud Farneland quondam solitarii’ – a book of meditation - which is kept in the cathedral

library in Durham (ibid, 28).

The Post Medieval Period

During the reign of Elizabeth, the Prior Castell’s Tower (10452) was used as a fort which in 1559

was under the command of Sir William Reede, known as Captain of the Holy and Farne Island.

He did not live on the island, which was instead manned by one of his deputies and a small

garrison (Watts 1951, 33). The fort continued to be occupied until the Civil War, the last Captain

being Robert Rugge, by which time the garrison had been reduced to only four who were

responsible for both the forts on Farne and Holy Island.

The subsequent history of the islands is dominated by the various lighthouses and lighthouse

keeper’s deployed on Inner Farne, Staple, Brownsman and eventually Longstone. For centuries

the Farnes had been a great danger to navigation, the dangerous tides and half-submerged rocks

had brought devastation to shipping across the ages. However, there is no evidence of any form

of beacon being erected until the reign of Charles II. In 1673, Charles wrote to the Dean and

Chapter requesting that St. John Clayton and George Blake be granted licence to erect a

lighthouse on Inner Farne, and that this should be manned by the current tenant of the island or

any other person to be recommended. Following the request a beacon was erected on the top of

Prior Castell’s Tower and the Dean and Chapter granted a 21 year lease to Francis Liddle but

reserved the right to enjoy the lighthouse then being built and provide wayleave to and from it and

ground to store coals, a safe harbour for a boat and lodging in the tower for a keeper (Watts 1951,

34).



The 18th Century

Clayton had originally intended the Farne beacon to form part of a comprehensive network of

lighthouses all along the North East coast, but the wealthy Newcastle merchants who were

supposed to fund the scheme refused to pay their dues and subsequently the project was

abandoned and the fires on Inner Farne never kindled.7 Proposals were again raised in 1727 but

nothing was achieved and it was a further 50 years before a lighthouse was constructed to guide

shipping away from the islands.8

‘Since departure of the religious, this island has returned almost to its primitive state: it consists

of a few acres in its whole surface, the chief part of which is sand and rock. Scanty herbage

takes place indeed in some spots, especially on the little lawn; but there is neither tree or shrub.

The shore is rocky, and founding to the hollow sea which rolls upon it, fends forth a horrid

howling.’

Hutchinson 1776, 185

In 1755 John Blackett approached Trinity House with a request to build a lighthouse on Staple

Island but for some reason this was turned down. The Blacketts were tenants of the island who

leased the land from the Dean and Chapter for £16 per annum. They made a living from hunting

seals and collecting kelp and feathers, and also kept a few sheep and occasionally a cow at

pasture (Mackenzie 1825, 320). Seals were a very important part of the islands basic economy

and were killed largely for their skins and oil. Blackett recorded that a single huge bull seal, which

weighed in at 658lbs, produced nearly 20 gallons of oil, although most kills were much more

modest. In 1772 one of the Blacketts was recorded as killing 72 young seals (Watts 1951, 190).

Kelp was another important product of the island and was burnt to create soda-ash (sodium

carbonate) used in a number of processes including washing. A Kelp collectors, or ‘ware-cutters’,

hut is shown on the first edition OS map on West Wideopen (16079).

7 Citing online reference from trinity House > http://www.trinityhouse.co.uk/interactive/gallery/farne.html, accessed

09/10/10

8 Citing online references from Trinity House > http://www.trinityhouse.co.uk/interactive/gallery/farne.html, accessed

08/10/10

http://www.trinityhouse.co.uk/interactive/gallery/farne.html

http://www.trinityhouse.co.uk/interactive/gallery/farne.html



Figure 5: Extract from Armstrong map of the Farnes 1776. Prior Castell’s Tower and the monastic enclosure

are shown but none of the lighthouses.

Blackett waited another 21 years before re-

submitting his proposal, this time for two lighthouses

to be built at his own expense, and finally Trinity

House agreed. On the 1st December 1778 two coal

lit lighthouses shone out from the Farne Islands, one

in the Prior’s Tower on Inner Farne (10452) and the

other on the southern end of Staple (16058). The

Staples Island light was blown down soon after in

1784 and was rebuilt on Brownsman in

1791(16056). However, this was also damaged by

heavy seas in 1800 and had to be partially rebuilt. In

1807 a survey of both towers was undertaken by

James Russell (builder) (NRO 0530-20-035). He

describes the Inner Farne tower as being in a

reasonable condition ‘the walls of which are strong

enough to admit any alteration with a little repair at

the top’ but describes the Brownsman tower as being in a poor state and in need of pointing and

coping (Figure 7).

Figure 6: The Pinnacle lighthouse on Staple

and the tower on Brownsman built by Blackett

(Hague & Christie 1975, 82)



Figure 8: Images of High and Low Light from a mid 19th century Admiralty chart (NRO-722-A-4)

Figure 9: Early 19th century etching of ‘Ferne Islands’ showing Brownsman lighthouse (16065) in the

foreground with the adjacent tower (16055) and Staple Pinnacle beacon in the middle distance (16058)

The 19th Century

In 1809 plans were made by Trinity House to take over the two Farne towers and erect two new

lighthouses in their place. The first to be built was High Light on south-western point of Inner

Farne, started in 1811. It was designed by Daniel Alexander and featured reflectors and Argand

lamps. To the north were three keeper’s cottages and the whole complex was enclosed by a

stone wall. It was during the construction of High Light that the medieval cross (10463) which had



previously stood on the site was probably demolished. Constructed at the same time as High

Light was smaller tower – Low Light- which was built on the north-west point of the island, 152m

from the main tower. This displayed a fixed white light intended to assist with navigation between

Goldstone and the Plough near Holy island (Watt 1951, 35). The following year the Brownsman

Beacon was also replaced, and in 1825 the Blackett family finally sold the lease of the Farne

Island to Trinity House for £36,484.9

Figure 10: Extract from Fryer’s map of 1820 showing the four (five) Farne lighthouses

Fryer’s map of 1820 was rather too large a scale to show any detail but the four lighthouse are

shown – High and Low Light on Inner Farne (16052 & 16053), the defunct Pinnacle beacon on

Staple and the old tower (16056) and new lighthouse on Brownsman (16055) (shown as just one

dot at this scale). However, soon after the construction of the new Brownsman lighthouse (16055)

it became alarmingly apparent that a huge miscalculation had occurred. The light actually drove

ships onto the rock, their crews not being aware that the islands actually extended over a mile

and a half further out to sea. After a large number of wrecks in the period between 1823 and

1824, including the brig George and Mary which went down with all 100 hands, it was decided by

Trinity House to move the Brownsman Lighthouse and rebuild it on Longstone Rock. Work

commenced swiftly and on the 15th Feb 1826 the new Longstone Light was lit. It was designed

9 Citing online reference ‘The Blackets of the North east’ > http://www.theblacketts.com/articles/1-blackett-odds-and-ends,

accessed 08/10/10.

http://www.theblacketts.com/articles/1-blackett-odds-and-ends



and built by Joseph Nelson and was lit by Argand lamps with 12 burners and parabolic reflectors

which alone cost £1, 441. Altogether, with the attached dwellings, the total bill was approximately

£4,771, a huge sum at that time.10

Figure 11: Extract from Admiralty chart of the coast of Northumberland, from the Farne Islands to Berwick by

Commander E.I.Johnson (NRO-722-A-4)

The first lighthouse keeper on Brownsman had been Robert Darling, appointed keeper in 1795

and assisted by his son William, who was to succeed his father on his death in 1815. William

Darling, father of Grace, was a keen amateur naturalist and communicated with a number of well

known authorities on the subject including John and Albany Hancock and William Hewitson (ibid,

35). The move from Brownsman to Longstone must have been quite a shock for the Darlings.

Brownsman had good soil coverage and enabled the family to keep two gardens (16057 & 16093)

in which they grew an assortment of vegetables, and they had also kept sheep and goats, but

Longstone by comparison was a much harsher prospect. Darling retained use of the garden but

the journey from Longstone to Brownsman would have proved impossible on many days, the

crops going unattended and eventually abandoned until recent efforts by the wardens to rekindle

the garden.

10 Citing online reference ‘ Trinity House’ > http://www.trinityhouse.co.uk/interactive/gallery/longstone.html, accessed

09/10/10

http://www.trinityhouse.co.uk/interactive/gallery/longstone.html



With the construction of Longstone the network of Lighthouse stations on Farne was complete,

and still protects shipping in these dangerous waters today. However, the huge number of wreck

sites in the area remains as testimony to the perils of the sea. One of the earliest recorded

occurred in 1613 (NMR 1382697) when a Scottish vessel foundered in Farne Sound shortly after

leaving Holy Island with a cargo of ransacked lead and other materials from the Priory. Some time

later, in 1763 another craft (NMR 1385968) was recorded wrecked in a storm after grounding on

the Megstone. A few years earlier, in 1744, six ships had been lost in a single storm with over 100

people lost (Watt 1951, 36). Even after the construction of the new lighthouses there were still a

large number of wrecks recorded including the Spica of Riga, wrecked on January 2nd 1916,

which is still visible on the South Wamses foreshore (16086). However, undoubtedly the most

famous wreck was the steamship the Forfarshire (16097) which sank on the 7th September 1838

and was at the centre of the daring rescue undertaken by William Darling and his 22 year old

daughter, Grace.

Figure 12: Images of Grace Darling, the first with her family, including father William and the second battling

the waves in the famous rescue.11

The Forfarshire was one of the earliest coastal passenger steamers operating in the country and

was sailing from Dundee to Hull when all her engines failed and she started to drift. Caught in the

middle of a worsening storm her captain decided to make for the channel between Holy Island

and Inner Farne in the hope of finding shelter, but mistook the Longstone Lighthouse for High

Light on Inner Farne and with no warning the vessel struck hard on the west corner of Big Harcar.

In the crash 39 people were killed but 8 crew members and one passenger escaped into the ships

boats but eleven others were left alive onboard and climbed onto the rock. Grace noticed the

stricken survivors from her window in the lighthouse and William and Grace launched the coble in

a bid to reach them. Despite having to row in treacherous seas they eventually succeeded in

rescuing some of the survivors, although two had already died, and returned to Longstone. The

boat was then launched again to collect the remaining survivors from the rock. The dramatic

rescue immediately shot Grace to fame as a national heroine, but sadly she died just four years

11 From the Grace darling Museum > http://www.rnli.org.uk/who_we_are/the_heritage_trust/grace-darling-museum/grace-

darling-story, accessed 10/10/10

http://www.rnli.org.uk/who_we_are/the_heritage_trust/grace-darling-museum/grace-darling-story




later at the age of 26 from tuberculosis. She is buried in St Aidan’s churchyard in Bamburgh but a

memorial to her stands in St Cuthbert’s chapel (16066).12

In first half of the 19th century the Venerable Charles

Thorp, Archdeacon of Durham from 1831 to 1886,

took over the lease of the Inner Farne Group. In

1848 he started restoration work on St Cuthbert’s

chapel which was roofless and in a very poor state

of repair having been used for many years as the

dwelling-house for the old tower lighthouse keeper.

It was intended to restore the chapel as a memorial

to Grace Darling who had died just six years

beforehand in 1842. Several subscriptions, including

£20 from Queen Victoria were collected but instead

it was chosen to erect a memorial to the heroine in

Bamburgh where she was buried. The Archdeacon, however, continued his restoration plans,

meeting the costs largely from his own pocket. Extensive repairs were made including the

installation a 17th century carved oak screen which had originally been designed for Bishop Cosin

c.1665 and installed in Durham Cathedral. Thorp also undertook extensive repairs and restoration

work in Prior Castell’s Tower.

In addition to restoring the chapel and tower, Archdeacon Thorp also put into place the first

modern measures to protect the birds on the island and was one of the first wildlife

conservationists. At his own expense he employed ‘watchers’ whose duty was to remain on the

island to protect the young birds until they had taken to wing (Watts 1951, 193). The main danger

to the islands bird population was from egg collectors and private collectors who were keen to

take part in the new Victorian pastime of taxidermy. This had been a rather unfortunate offshoot of

the rise in the late 18th and early 19th century of the Natural History Societies. Two of the most

important were the Natural History Society of Northumberland, Durham and Newcastle-upon-

Tyne and the Berwickshire Naturalists Club, both of which had their headquarters close to the

islands. The result was a huge rise in the number of visitors who came to the Farnes and parties

would charter steamers for the day to take a trip out to the site. Unfortunately, a large number

came to shoot at the guillemots and kittiwakes, an act that seems inconceivable today. One of the

most popular sites to visit was the impressive Pinnacle stack of the southern tip of Staple. Today

this still remains a favourite spot for visitors, although thankfully the only shots taken are with a

camera.

12 Citing online reference ‘RNLI’ > http://www.rnli.org.uk/who_we_are/the_heritage_trust/grace-darling-museum/grace-

darling-story. accessed 09/10/10

Farne Smugglers

During the restoration on St Cuthbert’s

chapel a cave, or vault, was found near

the old chapel of St. Mary’s which was

apparently full of contraband goods.

The excise officers had apparently

suspected the existence of such booty

but had sought in vain for many years

to discover the valuable stash (Watts

1951, 41)





Figure 13: A bird watching picnic on Inner Farne in the late 18th century; thankfully not a rifle in sight (NRO

ZMD 163-02)

All of the key features of the island today were already established by the mid 19th century and

were shown on the first accurate map of the islands, the first edition OS map published in 1848.

On Inner Farne, the newly restored chapel and tower house were shown, surrounded by the old

monastic compound and adjacent to an enclosed walled garden (16064), probably established by

the lighthouse keepers some time beforehand. On the western side of the island the two

lighthouses were shown, as well as the keeper’s cottages, all of which were connected to the

harbour by a track. On the cliff above the harbour a windlass was depicted, used either for

winching supplies up to the higher ground or for raising water from the well in this location. On

Brownsman and Staple, the old lighthouses built by Blackett were shown and the new Trinity

House lighthouse (16055), although by this stage it had already passed out of use. To the west

and south-east of Brownsman Lighthouse were two garden enclosures tended by the Darlings

(16093 & 16057) and to the north-west of the lighthouse was a boat safe, where the coble would

be hauled up away from the high tide. A rectangular structure shown on the south-western point

of the island, above Pinnacle Haven, was probably a second boat safe or store. There is very little

change between the first edition OS and the later 2nd edition map, published in 1898 (Figure 17)



Figure 14: Details of Inner Farne Group from First Edition OS Map (1848)

Figure 15: Details of Outer Farne Group from First Edition OS Map (1848)





20th Century

The third edition OS map (Figure 18), published in 1919, also shows little change but by this

stage the keeper’s cottages and the second lighthouse would have no longer been use and had

been demolished by 1930. In 1910 the smaller of the two lighthouses - Low Light - was closed

and High Light was converted to automatic operation with an acetylene light controlled by a sun

valve. This meant that there was no longer a need for a keeper on Farne although Longstone

remained a manned operation. In 1952 Longstone was converted to electricity although High

Light remained powered by acetylene produced by carbide; the white patches seen on the cliffs

below the site are the result of over a hundred years of waste carbide poured over the edge

(Goddard 1956, 10). In 1996 the lighthouse was finally modernised and converted to solar power.

Six years prior to this Longstone had also been updated and automated so ending over 200 years

of lighthouse keepers on the Farnes.

Figure 17: Details of Outer Farne Group from First Edition OS Map (1848)

In 1926 the islands were purchased for the National Trust by public subscription (NT 1986, 3). By

this stage the Inner Farne group was owned by the family of Archdeacon Thorp who had

eventually purchased the land in 1861. The Outer Farnes were under the ownership of the

industrialist and inventor Lord Armstrong who also held estates at Cragside and Bamburgh. He



had bought the land from the church commissioners in 1894, finally ending centuries of

ecclesiastical connection with the Farne islands stretching back to Aidan.

During the Second World War, Farne did not form a key strategic point in Sir Edmund Ironside’s

line of coastal defences. It was not a strategic landing point but would have served as a good

intermediate vantage point for any invasion. As such, defences like barbed wire were probably

deployed across the island. There are records of direct attacks made by enemy bombers on the

lighthouses of the islands with the aim of disrupting merchant shipping. Across the country

lighthouses were lit only when merchant convoys were known to be passing by an area or at high

tide, otherwise they were a perfect guide for bombers. On the 1st August 1941 four bombs

dropped on Longstone, two of which scored a direct hit on the lighthouse blowing out doors and

windows, although miraculously the three keepers were unhurt and evacuated ashore. Later five

bombs were jettisoned on Brownsmen but failed to explode. An important dog fight also took

place over the skies of Farne during the Battle of Britain in 1940. The German Luftwaffe were

intercepted over the Islands by 72 Squadron from Acklington during the ensuing battle eight

German Heinkels and seven Messerschmitts were shot down but there were no RAF losses.13

One allied plane that was not so lucky was an American Boeing B17 Flying Fortress bomber –

flight B17F 42-30030 - which ditched 0.5 miles south of Inner Farne, following a mechanical

failure. Two of the crew were killed (NMR 1387653).

Following the war the National Trust returned to the island and today the site is one of the most

important nature reserves in the British Isles, visited by thousands of members and non members

every year.

13 Citing online reference > http://www.war-experience.org/history/keyaspects/northeast/pagetwo.asp, accessed 09/10/10

http://www.war-experience.org/history/keyaspects/northeast/pagetwo.asp









Nature of the Archaeological Evidence

There were previously 27 sites recorded on the National Trust SMR for the Farne Islands. The

current survey has identified an additional 49 new sites bringing the overall total to 76 sites. Much

of the archaeology in the area is medieval or 19th century in date, but the earliest evidence from

across the landholding are two Mesolithic flints (16098-99), and the latest the 20th century ponds

(10459-61) and rope tethering pins (16095). The Northumberland County Council HER featured

18 sites which have been added to the NTSMR where appropriate. Further sites were also added

from the National Monuments Record (NMR) and the results of the field survey, analysis of the

historic mapping, and the study of modern aerial photographs. All sites are illustrated on Figure

19, and are detailed in the gazetteer.

Prehistoric Remains

There are only two finds from the prehistoric period, these are the two Mesolithic flints (16098 &

16099) found by Mr. Francis Buckley during a field visit by the Berwickshire Naturalists' Club on the 21st

June 1923. Unfortunately their whereabouts are not known today.

Roman

No finds or remains associated with the Roman period have been found on any of the islands.

Early Medieval

Although the documentary evidence of this period is good, there is little archaeological evidence

surviving. However, there is some potential for the survival of sub-surface remains, particularly on

the eastern side of Inner Farne around the later monastic settlement and the harbour. According

to Bede, writing relatively soon after the saints death, Cuthbert built a circular cell surrounded by

an earthen bank but the exact location of this is unclear although there are currently two schools

of thought; one that it was under the Prior Castell’s Tower (10452) and the other that it was closer

to the harbour - somewhere between the hospitium (10456) and the chapel (Watt 1951, 28;

Goddard 1956, 7).

The Wells

One point which has frequently been used to argue for the location of the cell on the spot of the

later Prior Castell’s Tower has been the existence of the well in the ground floor of the building

(16060). According to Bede, when Cuthbert first retired to the island there were no natural springs

but he ordered the brethren to dig a well in the floor of his cell and then, by the power of faith and

prayer, it produced water and continued to provide an ample supply of its ‘heaven sent bounty for

those who come here’ Bede Trans. 1985, 262). However, the first edition OS map clearly shows a

second well (10457) located just to the north of the hospitium (now underneath the Trinity House

Track (10462)) which would argue for the location of the monastic cell in this area. Speed’s map

of 1611 (Figure 4) showed this as a ‘fresh water spring’ running to the west of the Benedictine

House but nothing was indicated beneath the tower. However, Speed’s map showed a second



well (T2*) existing to the south of the ‘fishe house’ (hospitium). This was later shown on an early

19th century plan of the island but was not on the first edition OS map of 1848. Today there is a

slight depression in the ground in this area, and the drainage ditch running from the western

ponds (10459-61) terminates in this general area.

Figure 21 & Plate 2: Extract from first edition OS (1948) showing Well (10457) and the well at the base of

Prior Castell’s Tower (16060).

In addition to his cell, Cuthbert also ordered that a hospitium be built for guests to the island, and

the erection of a devotional cross. The guest house was still standing in the 12th century when

Bartholomew was resident on the island but according to the account rolls of 1360 was rebuilt that

year on the same spot as the old.

Figure 20: Early 19th century map of

Inner Farne (source not specified

(NT 1986, 1))



A stone cross (10463) which once stood on the south-west

point of the island was removed in 1809 when High Light

was built. This was unlikely to be the cross erected by

Cuthbert which would have been closer to the oratory.

Instead, this may have been a later medieval cross,

erected to mark the site where the monks signalled the

saint’s death to the main house on Lindisfarne. No

evidence survives of this cross, although Haverfield and

Greenwell are recorded as discovering an incomplete mid

8th-mid 9th century cross shaft lying near St Cuthbert's

chapel which is now in the Monk's Dormitory, Durham

(NMR entry 8305). There is a carved stone currently

located in St Cuthbert’s chapel which could also be a

remnant of the missing cross (10467). It is badly worn but

features the head and shoulders of a figure, possibly a

nimbus, and probably dates to the 12th century. Together

with a lintel in Prior Castell’s tower this is one of the oldest

features surviving on the island (Ryder 1996, 12).

Medieval

There were two chapels associated with the 12th century Benedictine House - the chapels of St

Mary’s (10450) and St Cuthbert’s (10451). The latter still stands in good condition and has been

variously restored, most extensively by Archdeacon Thorp in 1848 but more recently by the

National Trust in 1926-28. The second chapel was semi-ruinous, but the surviving fabric was

incorporated into a new visitors centre by the National Trust. Both appear on the account rolls of

1360-1 so were obviously built some time before this, but a later roll of 1369 provides details of

the construction of a new chapel on the site of the old St Cuthbert’s at a cost of just under £50.00

(Ryder 1996, 1).

The present St Cuthbert’s chapel (10451) is that built in 1370, although there is some 12th or 13th

century masonry still in existence in the north wall. The earlier masonry is coursed ashlar but the

remainder of the chapel is constructed of local whinstone rubble. It is entered from the south,

through a restored ogee headed doorway. There are three windows in the south wall, two of

which are 19th century, while at the eastern end is an original 14th century window which is now

blocked. In the east wall is a 19th century window. The north wall has no openings. In the west

wall of the chapel is a blocked recess interpreted as a hatch or window. Externally, against the

west wall, are the foundations of a small room which may be a galilee chapel or porch; a feature

typical of churches dedicated to St Cuthbert (SM listing, 1979). The interior was largely

refurnished in the 19th century by Archdeacon Thorp, and includes 17th century woodwork

Plate 3: Possible fragment of a

medieval cross featuring the head of

a figure - now located in St.

Cuthbert’s Chapel (10467)



designed for Bishop Cosin c.1665. The grave slabs and sculpture (10466-69) in the chapel all

date to the 13th and early 14th century and were brought inside from the courtyard in 1929 (Ryder

1996, 11). The chapel also contains the monument to Grace Darling erected by Archdeacon

Thorp (16066).

Plates 4 & 5: St Cuthbert’s Chapel (10451) and Prior Castlell’s Tower (10452), both on Inner Farne

Prior Castell’s Tower (10452), to the west of the two chapels, is believed to have built c.1500 but

contains elements possibly from the earlier chapel including a small lancet windows on the stairs

and trefoiled piscina on the first floor (Ryder 1994). The tower is rather irregular in plan and

measures 12.45m long and 7.94m at the north end, narrowing to 6.20m at the south. It is

constructed of whinstone rubble, with pink sandstone quoins and dressings, and was originally

four storeys high but only three remain intact. Only the southern third of the top floor remains in-

situ, the rest having been demolished to provide for the lighthouse beacon. The building has

undergone considerable change over its lifetime; first being used as a lighthouse and then

‘restored’ by Archdeacon Thorp in the mid 19th century. More recently it was extensively

renovated by the National Trust in the 1950s when it was in imminent danger of collapse (NT

Scotts Gap archive). The need to build a defendable structure to protect the community during the

innumerable raids along the coast in the late 15th century is some indication of the wealth of the

monastery before the Dissolution.



Figure 22: the monastic enclosure showing the arrangement of the various walls and courtyards (from Watts

1951, 32)

In addition to the tower, the community was also enclosed by a series of three enclosed

courtyards. The north courtyard (16063) was the original entrance into the monastic complex. It is

irregular in shape and defined by a stone wall which even today stands up to 1.5m high and is

0.9m wide. The enclosure originally measured 24m east-west by a maximum 20.5m north-south.

Outside the north wall of the court the ground falls away steeply for 2m-3m and the west wall

originally crossed over St Cuthbert's Gut to abut the north side of the tower. This wall is shown on

the first edition OS but has since fallen away. The curved north wall which survives in-situ was

also built before 1848 and joins the north wall (10478) of the chapel and tower compound. The

south side of the court is formed by the north walls of St Cuthbert's chapel and the tower, with the

gap in between filled by a wall (10478) built in 1930. Entry to the court was through an arched

gateway, 2.3m wide, located in the east wall. Speed’s map (Figure 4) shows the walls as

crenellated although there is no sign of this today (Watts 1951, 31).

The entrance to Prior Castell’s tower (10452) was through the east courtyard (16062) and the

tower courtyard (16061). In the east courtyard a number of burials were found during works in

1816. This was almost certainly the monastic graveyard and included three stone coffins of 14th to

15th century date. The excavated bones were later re-interred in the north enclosure (Watts 1951,

31). The east courtyard (10452) was originally divided from the tower courtyard (16061) by the



west wall (10473), the foundations of which just remain visible. There are also traces of the

central doorway near to where the font now stands. This formerly led into the tower courtyard

beyond. The stone coffin (10453) in the east courtyard was one of those found during the 1918

excavations and is believed to have belonged to Thomas Sparowe who died in 1430 (ibid, 32)

The other medieval element of the complex is the hospitium which replaced that built by St

Cuthbert in the 7th century and was mentioned in the account roles of 1360. Later it was described

as having two fireplaces at the north and west ends and a stone vault (ibid, 29). This description

is very much removed from the small rectangular stone ‘shed’ which stands there today, although

some earlier material may still survive.

To the south-west of the monastic enclosure is an area of ridge and furrow (10458) associated

with the medieval community. This can be clearly seen on modern aerial photographs and covers

an area of approximately 0.5 hectares. It appears to have originally extended under the walled

garden (16064) and can just about be seen continuing south-east beyond the Trinity House track

(10462). The furrows are about 2m wide and run north-west to south-east but are not very

pronounced. This is the only evidence of arable cultivation on the islands, although there are

walled garden on Inner Farne and Brownsman.

Plates 6 & 7: stone coffin belonging to Thomas Sparowe (10453) in east courtyard and ridge and furrow

cultivation on Inner Farne (10458)

18th Century

There seems to be no surviving material related to the 16-17th century fort which occupied Prior

Castell’s tower following the Dissolution, and no obvious archaeological evidence of the post

medieval period until the construction of the first lighthouse by Blackett on Staple (16058) in 1776.

The Staple lighthouse, or Pinnacle as it was known, was a simple square structure, built of local

whinstone and fitted with a wooden lantern tower which subsequently blew down in a gale (Hague

& Christie 1975, 81). Today, much of the base structure survives, the walls standing 2.60m high

which appears to be near the original height of the building. It is entered from the south-east



through a simple square headed doorway, and there is a window opening in the north-east wall.

The beacon tower on Brownsman (16056), which replaced the Staple lighthouse, is a much more

substantial building. Again built of local whinstone, it stands approx. 12m high and ascends in a

series of three offsets. Is in entered from the north-east side and there was formerly a ladder in

the interior leading up to a platform at the top where the coal burners were lit. Today a wooden

equipment shed in built within the interior of the structure although not connecting with any of the

walls. Evidence of the use of Prior Castell’s Tower (10452) as a lighthouse is restricted to the

remains of the fourth storey platform for the coal burners.

Plates 8 & 9: remains of the Pinnacle lighthouse on Staple (16058) and the beacon tower on Brownsman

(16056)

19th century

Archdeacon Thorp made a considerable impact on the archaeology (and ecology) of the island

during this period. He undertook ‘restoration’ work on St Cuthbert’s Chapel (14051) – including

the erection of the 17th century woodwork which he brought from Durham Cathedral - and on Prior

Castell’s Tower (10452) (Ryder 1986). He was also responsible for the erection of the Grace

Darling memorial in the chapel (16066) and the font (10471) which stands in the courtyard. The

latter originally came from Gateshead Parish Church which had close connections with the Thorp

family for a number of years (Watts 1951, 41).

In the first decade of the 19th century the lighthouses on the island were all rebuilt by Trinity

House. The main lighthouse on Inner Farne - ‘High Light’ (16052) - remains in working order and

stands 13m high. It is a tapering, three storey, circular tower which features the Trinity House

crest above the door. The light is surrounded by an iron railed balcony and has square glazing

bars; above this is a domed, grey slate roof with a small lead drum. Adjacent is a two bay cottage

with a pyramidal grey slate roof and a central stack. North-east of this is a rectangular building

with circular windows, and to the west of this the remains of a pig sty. These buildings are all that

remain of the cottages and ancillary buildings shown on the first edition OS map of 1848. There is

very little trace of any remains in-situ except for the outline of the enclosure and the track leading



to the smaller lighthouse - Low Light (16053). Similarly, very little survives above ground of Low

Light except for some features along the cliff which might be related (16072).

The walled garden (16064) on the south-east side of the monastic enclosure probably dates to

this phase of occupation. St Mary’s chapel was used by Trinity House as a storehouse during this

period and it would seem likely that the enclosure was constructed around the same time for

growing fresh produce for the keepers and their families. However, it could be slightly earlier and

date to the use of Prior Castell’s Tower as a lighthouse, when the keeper lived in St Cuthbert’s

chapel. The enclosure measures 36 x 24m and is constructed of local whinstone rubble with

some rounded sea cobbles and pieces of re-used masonry (especially around the entrances).

There are three entrances to the enclosure; two to the west and one to the east. The first edition

OS map shows the garden as extending further to the north-east along the south wall of the

monastic complex but it is now slightly reduced in size.

There is a second possible garden area just above the harbour. In this location there are a series

of terraces (16067) built into the cliff side. Two terraces exist, formed by three revetment walls

built of cobbles and local stone; each terrace measures approximately 20m long. The walls are in

poor condition in some areas and quite overgrown. Alternatively, the terracing could be later

coastal revetment against erosion.

Plates 10 & 11: the walled garden enclosure on inner Farne (16064) and the terracing (16067) above St

Cuthbert’s Haven – possibly garden terracing or erosion defence.

Other features associated with the lighthouses during this period include the Trinity House track

(10462) which ran from the harbour to High Light lighthouse and then onto Low Light. This now

forms part of the modern footpath around the island. There are also a series of four boundary

stones which stand approximately 0.75m high and measure 0.25m across (16069-71, 16073).

They feature the inscription ‘T.H’ for Trinity House and either date to the sale of the land by

Blackett in 1825, or are slightly later and associated with the purchase of the island from the Dean

and Chapter by Archdeacon Thorp in 1861. They are all is good condition and do not appear to

be under any threat.



Plates 12 & 13: one of the Trinity House Boundary Stones (16069) and High Light Lighthouse on Inner Farne

(16052)

On Brownsman the base of the 1812 Lighthouse (16055) remains standing to a height of just

under 4m. The dressed stone outer façade is 2m high, above which only the whinstone core can

be seen. There are three original six-paned, segmented-fixed headed windows and a door

adjacent to the keeper’s cottage. The cottage is a two-bay building, built of dressed stone with a

Welsh slate gabled roof with hitched dormer. It is in good condition and is currently used by the

National Trust wardens.

To the north of the 1812 lighthouse, on the edge of the foreshore, are the remains of the boatsafe

(16076) shown on the first edition OS map. Today this comprised two parallel walls built of

whinstone rubble and set approximately 2m apart. The walls survive to a height of 0.80m high in

some parts. It is unclear if this was ever a roofed building or just a raised platform, perhaps with a

wooden canopy over the top. There may have been a ramp to launch the boat down to the water.

There are score marks visible in the rocks in front of the boatsafe which could be natural or

possibly associated with the scrap of the keel over the area as the boat was launched. There may

have been a second boatsafe (16083) at the southern end of the island but no evidence of this

survives. There are a series of bolt holes in the rock in this area (16084) but these do not appear

to be in the correct location. It is unknown what these features formed part of but there are quite a

number of the holes, which measure approximately 0.07m in diameter and are bored directly into

the rock just above the modern jetty.



Plates 14 & 15: remains of the Brownsman lighthouse (16055) and the surviving walls of the related

boastsafe (16076).

Associated with the lighthouses on Brownsman are two walled gardens (16093 and 16057). The

largest (16093), lies to the west lighthouse on the lower slopes overlooking a natural inlet. This

measures approximately 23m x 13m and is shown on the first edition OS map. Today it is badly

overgrown and the walls are in quite poor condition; although parts of the north wall stand up to

0.80m high. At the north-eastern end of the feature is a small building, possibly a pig sty, which is

in good condition and roofed. A second walled enclosure (16057) stands just to the south-east of

the beacon and measures 15m x 7.50m. Just to the north of this was the Brownsman well which

supplied the island with water, although this was not seen during the survey.

Plates 16 & 17: the large enclosure (16093) to the west of the lighthouse, with the small ancillary buildings

visible at the northern end, and the second, smaller enclosure (16057)

Located 100m south-east of lighthouse is a third enclosure (16085), this measures 20m x 8m and

is also constructed on local whinstone. The shape of the enclosure is much less regular than

those adjacent to the lighthouse and in the north-west corner are the remains of what seems to be

a building. The wall in this area is curved and includes a blocked doorway and window but there is

no visible evidence of a return wall within the interior of the enclosure; although this was heavily

overgrown and partially obscured by rubbish during the survey. The first edition OS map shows a

second square feature on the southern side of the enclosure but no evidence of this now survives.



The enclosure probably pre-dates the lighthouse and may be a small croft or kelp collector

cottage with adjacent kaleyard.

On Staple there are the remains of what would seem to be a very similar enclosure (16090). This

measures 28m x 18m and is located at the north-eastern end of the island, overlooking

Brownsman. It is situated just above the rocks, on the backshore, and comprises a dry-stone wall

enclosure standing up to 1.10m high in places. In the north-east corner there appears to be the

remains of a rectangular building, although only the footings survive. Like the Brownsman

enclosure, this might be the remains of a small croft pre-dating the later 18th century lighthouse.

Plates 18 & 19: remains of small crofts or kelp cutters cottages on Brownsman (16085) and Staple (16090)

Longstone lighthouse was not visited but is described as a five-storey, tapering circular

lighthouse. The light itself has trellised glazing bars above which is a small domed roof, and below

which is an iron railed platform (listing description). Adjacent to the tower is a single storey two-

bay cottage. The tower is 26m high and stands 23m above high tide level. Both Longstone and

High Light are owned and run by Trinity House and are not part of the landholding, although a key

element of the cultural heritage of the islands.

On all three of the islands surveyed there were a large number of boats rings and tethering points

(16074, 16082 & 16096). These fell broadly into two types. The first (Type A) stood approx. 0.10m

high and featured a fixed eyelet ring approx. 0.9m in diameter. Often these were set in concrete,

although sometimes bored directly into the rock. These fixtures were mostly the surviving

grounding pins for boat rings which would have looped through the eyelet ring but in the majority

of cases the ring was missing. Presumably, sometimes ropes were also just tied directly to the

eyelet without an additional ring. The second type of ring (Type B) comprised of a grounding pin

or staple set much closer to the ground through which ran the boat ring. These varied in size but

were on average 0.25m in diameter. In both cases the fixtures were of iron or occasionally

galvanised steel. It was generally impossible to date the boat rings except for a few cases, but

their distribution around the islands does mark the main historic landing areas. These spots have



probably been used for centuries, being the safest and easiest places to land. In most cases they

are on the east side of the islands.

The location of the buildings on Farne, and the documentary evidence, all indicate that the

harbour, or ‘haven’, on Inner Farne has been used since at least the early 7th century. On Staple

the distribution of boat rings indicated landing sites on both the west side of the island (around

where the modern jetty is) and on the north-west side (opposite Pinnacle Haven); the latter is the

most direct route from Brownsman, weather permitting. A few tethering points were also identified

on the north-western tip of the island. On Brownsman there were boat rings all over the island.

The majority were collected to the south, around Pinnacle Haven, which is the modern landing

point for the island, but others were found on the north-east tips around the lighthouses, as well

as a group on the west side along the natural inlet there.

Plates 20 - 22: various boat rings and tethering pins found across the islands (16074, 16082 & 16096)

Most of the boat rings were, as the name suggest, used for mooring boats but the location of

others suggests that they were used for attaching ropes to secure a path across an area in high

seas. Some are located quite high up, along the backshore, and might be associated with

tethering barbed wire during the war, and one particular odd pin (16091) might have been for

attaching a radio receiver aerial. Another reason for the tethering pins, especially those on the

western edge of Brownsman, might be slightly more macabre. One method used to hunt seals in

the last century was to tether the young pups to the rocks so that their mothers would continue to

feed them and they could be fattened up before slaughtering (Watts 1951, 191).

On Staple and Inner Farne there are long iron pins (16075 & 16095), measuring nearly 1m high,

through which ropes are looped to mark out paths for visitors. Many of these are still in use but

there is one set on the east side of Inner Farne (16075) which is redundant. These all form part of

the later history of the island and are important but the large numbers littered across the rocks at

Staple (16095) do rather detract from the setting of the place.

Other features of note are a series of dry-stone pack walls built up along the edge of the cliff on

the north-west side of Inner Farne (16070). It is unclear what function these served, and a close

inspection was not possible. There is also a pathway with a raised coped edge in this location.



These features might have been associated with Low Light or possibly some form of WWII

installation, this being a good vantage point overlooking Holy island.

There are also a number of possible quarry sites on the islands but it is often very difficult to

distinguish these because the rock naturally forms fissures and cracks along a plane. However,

stone for the various buildings was undoubtedly quarried on the island, although smaller pieces

may have simply been collected along the shore. One probable quarry site is on the southern side

of Inner Farne (16068) where cutting planes can be seen in the rock, but there are almost

certainly others.

Finally, there are three large ponds (10459-61) on Inner Farne which are connected by a drainage

ditch running from the High Light keeper’s enclosure (10464), through to a point near the old well

(15601) to the south of the hospitium. Only one of these ponds (10460) is shown on any of the old

OS maps. These water features are therefore probably relatively modern. Similarly the dew pond

on Brownsman, which collects rainwater, also dates to within the last 100 years.

Plates 23 - 24: two of the ponds on Inner Staple (10460 & 10461); both almost certainly modern in date.

Previous Archaeological and Historical Research

Table 3: previous work undertaken on the Farne Islands

Date Area Work undertaken

1930 Inner Farne,

Monastic Area

H.L. Honeyman and R.C Bosanquet undertook excavations on

the monastic enclosure (Honeyman 1931).

1937 Inner Farne Monument Scheduled. Honeyman conducts a condition survey

of the Prior Castell’s Tower (10452).

1993 Inner Farne A small excavation undertaken in the east and tower

courtyards in advance of repair works, no features or finds of

any significance were recorded. (Summary report in NT Scots

Gap files)

1994 Prior Castell’s Tower, Full Buildings Survey undertaken by Peter Ryder



Inner Farne

1996 Inner Farne Scheduling reviewed and updated and further restoration work

undertaken in the chapel

1996 St Cuthbert’s Chapel,

Inner Farne

Buildings Survey undertaken by Peter Ryder

1993? St Mary’s chapel,

Inner Farne

During work on the track running to the south of Mary’s chapel

(the Trinity House Track) a small number of burials were found

and excavated.

Date? Prior Castell’s Tower,

Inner Farne

A detailed buildings survey undertaken by David Reed of

Bernicia Archaeology.

Archaeological Potential

The archaeological potential of the islands as a whole is very high, although only in those areas

were there is good ground coverage which is actually a very small percentage of the landholding

and largely restricted to Inner Farne, Brownsman, Staple, the Wideopens and the Wamses.

Those areas considered to be of highest potential include:

1. The area of the monastic compound - there is still considerable potential for further material

to be found in these areas. The east and tower courtyards (16061-62) have probably been

quite heavily disturbed by various phases of rebuilding (and the excavations of the 1930s)

but sub-surface remains may still be well preserved beneath the north courtyard (16063),

and the area to the south of the enclosure around the hospitium. The path leading up from

the harbour to the higher ground is also of high potential, particularly given that burials have

recently been uncovered in this area. Similarly, the area of high ground overlooking the

harbour could prove significant.

2. Another area of high potential is the buried remains of the early 19th century lighthouse

cottages along the western edge of Inner Farne.

3. On Brownsman, the area of highest potential is thought to be around the enclosure on the

centre of the island (16093). Material and deposits may survive here related to the possible

post medieval enclosure. However, any deposits within the enclosure are probably heavily

disturbed but survival around the outside might be better, although the site is waterlogged

to the south.

4. On Staple the area of highest potential is around the walled enclosure on the north-eastern

side of the island (16090).

5. On all the main islands there remains the potential for stray finds to surface in puffin or

rabbit burrows.

6. Sea erosion exposing archaeological features is not likely to be a major factor as much of

the coastline is rock, the only area where it might be an issue is the sandy shoreline along



St Cuthbert’s cove. Here material could erode out of the backshore and hillside, particularly

after storms and high tides.

7. In terms of the broader archaeological perspective, further study of the island has the

potential to feed into a series of wider research themes, many of which are outlined in the

North East Regional Research Framework (NERRF) including: an understanding of religion

and belief in the early medieval period and the spread of Christianity; the connections

between the development of the state and the power of the church; the physical and

political landscape of the Northumberland coast in both the early and later medieval

periods; the development of the great ecclesiastical institutions in the medieval period;

monastic architecture; trade in marginal goods like kelp and seal oil; the organisation of

marginal groups like the lighthouse keeper’s, as well as a host of other topics (Petts and

Gerrard 2006).

Recommendations for Further Research

A considerable amount of work has already been undertaken on Inner Farne with regards the

monastic enclosure. The site has fascinated archaeologists, antiquarians and historians

throughout the ages. There is considerable potential for further research on the Farnes to link up

with both regional and countrywide research aims. Two areas which might warrant further study

are the a re-assessment of the primary material from the 1930s excavation, if this is available,

which could throw new light on the interpretation of the site in the light of modern research

undertaken by Ryder and others. Another area to be considered would be a closer study of the

‘hospitium’, ideally combined with a small area of targeted excavation. This would aim to establish

the existence and extent of any surviving medieval material and understand more about the form

of the 14th century building. This information would also aid the future management of this whole

area which is one of those most prone to damage through erosion or storm damage.

On Brownsman and Staple the key areas of interest are the two enclosures (16090 & 16085).

Clearance of the debris and vegetation surrounding these features, followed by a detailed

elevation and topographic survey, would be recommended to understand more about their form

and function and provide a permanent archaeological record. In addition, targeted excavation

might be considered in an attempt to extract some dating material. Further documentary material

may also exist in the records of the Dean and Chapter at the Palace Green library in Durham.



Statement of Significance

Overall, there can be little doubt of the national significance of the Farne Islands which for a wide

variety of reasons remain one of the most popular and well-loved of all the National Trust’s

landholdings. The rugged beauty and abundant wildlife of the Farne Islands has for centuries

attracted people to its shores. Their distinctive shape, rising out of often wild seas, is so close and

familiar to the mainland but at the same time still far enough away to be pervaded with an air of

mystery, isolation and foreboding. This early history of the site is interwoven with tales of saints

and demons which continues to have a popular appeal today. However, beyond the myth the pre-

Conquest monastic cell of St Cuthbert is of enormous archaeological and historical significance

even though the physical evidence is sparse. Inner Farne’s association with St Cuthbert, one of

the most influential figures in the early English Church, lies at the heart of this important site but

also of significance is the later rise of the Benedictine House. The post-Conquest monastic site is

well preserved and features some fine examples of 14th and 15th century architecture. These

include Prior Castell’s Tower, a defendable structure which illustrates something of the nature of

life along the turbulent coastline in the late medieval period.

Following the Dissolution, as the religious significance of the island waned, the political and

economic power of England began to expand and the Farnes story became intrinsically linked

with the history and development of trade and navigation. The increase of merchant shipping

sailing into the docks of Newcastle and Sunderland made it imperative to warn sailors of the

treacherous rocks around the islands and the first of the series of lighthouses were built. The

lighthouses of Farne are important in terms of the wider history of merchant’s shipping but also on

a very personable level in terms of the life of the keeper’s and their families on these remote

islands. However, undoubtedly, one of the most important associations of the lighthouse on the

site, particularly to the more general public, is the dramatic rescue undertaken by Grace Darling

and her father on that September night in 1838.

The following section explores Farne’s specific significance under four core themes.

Evidential Value

Although of enormous overall significance to the site, the archaeological evidence of the early

medieval monastic cell of St Aidan and St Cuthbert is very sparse. The later development of the

Benedictine house has meant that any earlier material has most likely been destroyed or is buried

underneath the existing Post-Conquest structures. In contrast, the survival of later 12th to 15th

century material is good and varied. When combined with the detailed documentary evidence, this

provides an excellent resource for the understanding of the form and development of a small

island based Benedictine House and the inter-relationship with its sister site on the mainland. In

the post-medieval period the evidence of the 16th and 17th century fort is poor and appears to

have been largely destroyed by later activity. During the 18th and 19th century there is good

evidence of the nature of small marginal island communities, specifically the lighthouse keepers,



but also kelp collectors and seal hunters. This includes both the existing and decommissioned

lighthouses as well as a range of associated features like gardens, tracks, boatsafes, landing

areas and the two possible croft enclosures on Brownsman and Staple. There is also some late

evidence associated with the development of the site as one of the earliest visitor’s attraction

owned both before and after Trust took over the property in 1926.

Historical Evidence

There is considerable documentary evidence associated with Farne, the earliest and most well

known being Bede, writing in the 8th century, but others include the later Simeon of Durham in the

12th century and the unknown author of the Life of St Bartholomew. These early histories provide

information on the nature, minds and politics of the audience who read them as well as on the

lives of the early hermits they describe. Later account rolls and references provide details of the

monastic house and, while being slightly drier reading, are rather more informative and reliable

than the earlier material. Together with the archaeological evidence, all these records provide a

wonderful resource for understanding the development and organisation of monastic life. For the

later periods, Trinity House has a good source of material related to the development of the

lighthouses. There is also a letter from Charles II to the Dean and Chapter detailing the first

request for the erection of a beacon on Inner Farne (Watts 1951, 34). Once more, when

combined with the physical evidence the documentary evidence of the later periods provide a

unique resource.

The Farnes are also associated with a number of famous and important people. The most

significant of the early ecclesiastical figures is of course St Cuthbert, but there was also St Aidan,

Bartholomew and Thomas de Melsonby. The most renowned of the later historic figures must be

the Victorian heroine Grace Darling. She lived on both Longstone and Brownstone and no doubt

tended the walled gardens in which the wardens today grow their potatoes. The historic

connections of the islands have also seen them form a place of latter day pilgrimage for many

antiquarians including Hutchinson, Mackenzie, Tomlinson and Greenwell and they have close

connections with important naturalist including John and Albany Hancock, William Hewitson and

Russell Goddard.

In addition, numerous artists and writers have been inspired by the site including the poet and

painter William Bell Scott (1811-1890) who was the master of the design school in Newcastle but

perhaps most famed for his murals at Wallington Hall. He painted the rather fanciful ‘King Egfrid

d.685 Landing on the Farne Islands to Summon Cuthbert to Become a Bishop’ in 1861 (Figure 3).

A more naturalistic rendition of the island and its landscape was executed by William Arnold

Woodhouse (1857 – 1935) who exhibited at the royal academy in the 1890s14.

14 Citing online reference > http://www.burlington.co.uk/artist-biography/william-arnold-woodhouse.html, accessed

10/10/10

http://www.burlington.co.uk/artist-biography/william-arnold-woodhouse.html



Figure 21 : two 19th century paintings: the first a naturalistic rendition of the Pinnacle by the artist William

Arnold Woodhouse, and the second Grace Darling’s dramatic rescue attempt by J.W. Carmichael

The courage and popularity of Grace Darling led to a number of Victorian painters attempting to

capture her daring rescue, one of the most famous being by the Newcastle artist, J.W.

Carmichael, who had previously worked with John Dobson. He trained in his early life as a

shipwright and painted a number of coastal and industrial scenes across the region.15 Grace was

also the subject of a great deal of poetry including the rather dubious talents of William

McGonagall (1825 – 1902):

‘As the night was beginning to close in one rough September day

In the year of 1838, a steamer passed through the Fairway

Between the Farne Islands and the coast, on her passage northwards;

But the wind was against her, and the steamer laboured hard.

There she laboured in the heavy sea against both wind and tide,

Whilst a dense fog enveloped her on every side;

And the mighty billows made her timbers creak,

Until at last, unfortunately, she sprung a leak.

From ‘The Wreck of the Forfarshire’ by William McGonagall16

More soothing to the ear is the work of the modern Northumberland poet Basil Buntings whose

long autobiographical poem Briggflatts17 refers to the night skies over the island and inspired the

recent orchestral piece ‘Orion over Farne’ by John Casken18.

15 Citing online reference > http://jamesalder.co.uk/artist-biography.php?id=87&showsold=yes, accessed 10/10/10

16 Citing online reference > http://www.mcgonagall-online.org.uk/poems/pgdarling.htm, accessed 10/101/10

17 Citing online reference > http://www.poetryarchive.org/poetryarchive/singlePoem.do?poemId=7500, accessed 11/10/10

18 Citing online reference > http://www.schott-music.com/news/archive/show,3457.html, accessed 11/10/10

http://jamesalder.co.uk/artist-biography.php?id=87&showsold=yes

http://www.mcgonagall-online.org.uk/poems/pgdarling.htm

http://www.poetryarchive.org/poetryarchive/singlePoem.do?poemId=7500

http://www.schott-music.com/news/archive/show,3457.html



Orion strides over Farne.

Seals shuffle and bark,

terns shift on their ledges,

watching Capella steer for the zenith,

and Procyon starts his climb.

From ‘Briggflatts’ by Basil Bunting

Aesthetic Value

We are told by Bede that it was the remoteness of the island which first attracted Aidan and

Cuthbert to Inner Farne where they could live in a simple way and focus on religious devotion and

contemplation without distraction. This sense of escape and isolation still remains a key factor of

Farne’s unique sense of place and is an element which must be carefully protected in the future.

The natural geology of the islands creates a dramatic and rugged landscape which is harsh and

unforgiving and really makes the visitor wonder what life must have been like for those early

saints and pilgrims, as well as for the lonely lighthouse keepers of later years. From almost

anywhere on the island there are striking views out across the other islands or along the

impressive sweep of the Northumberland coast. These views are various coloured and

transformed by the rapidly changing weather which can creates an array of different moods –

calm, wild, treacherous, looming, mysterious and beautiful – all in one day. Such a setting is at

risk, particularly given the number of visitors to the island each year, but when the last boat leaves

Inner Farne harbour there appears to be little long term impact.

Community Value

The community value of Farne is quite exceptional and it remains an important ‘must see’ site on

the agenda of many visitors to the area. It is popular with birdwatchers and those who have an

interest in the natural world, as well as families who enjoy the thrill of the boat ride, the beautiful

scenery and the strange little puffins. They are close enough to the mainland that they can be

visited easily in a day - either for just a ride around the islands or for a landing - and the visitors

centre on Inner Farne provides just enough information to be educational and interesting without

dominating.

Management Issues and Recommendations

A basic assessment of condition, and potential risk, was made during the field survey and in

general most sites were considered to be in a moderate to good state. The site already has a

management plan and there really seems to be very little which puts the archaeology, or broader

significance of the site, at risk but one or two issues are discussed below.

Poor State of Standing Structures

Most of the buildings on the islands are well maintained and subject to frequent reviews and so,

apart from a few cosmetic issues, most are in a good and stable state. However, given the harsh



environment of the islands there is a high risk from potential storm damage and it is

recommended that provisions, and funds, be put in place to immediately respond to any problems

and deal with emergencies of this nature which would not form part of the more general

maintenance plan.

Otherwise, the only structures where there is considerable concern are the enclosures on

Brownsman and Staple. In particular the two (16085 and 16090) believed to be associated with

an earlier phase of occupation prior the introduction of the lighthouses. These are in a steady

state of decline and need immediate attention. The main problem is that they are becoming

overrun with Sea Campion and it is recommended that this be cleared back. Presumably any form

of poisoning would be out of the question because of the wildlife on the island but manual

clearance, regularly undertaken, might remedy the problem. However, care should be taken not to

cause more damage by pulling vegetation out from amongst the delicate stone work and instead

material should be cut, or strimmed, and allowed to die back. As a minimum these features

should be preserved by record and a detailed survey undertaken. The other garden enclosures on

Brownsman (16093 & 16057) also require attention, in particular that on the west side of the

lighthouse (16093) which is in a very poor condition. The walled garden on Inner Farne (16064)

appears to be stable.

ACTION: 1) Record the enclosures on Brownsman and Staple when the vegetation has died

back.

2) Take measures to ensure that these areas do not become overgrown once the Campion starts

to return

3) Assess provision for emergency repairs and strategy for protecting structures from storm

damage.

Erosion and weather damage

In terms of ground erosion, the only area identified as a problem was around Cuthbert’s Haven on

Inner Farne. There is the potential in this area for sea and weather erosion along the backshore

and cliffs which could ultimately threaten the terracing area (16067), the hospitium (10456) and

potential sub-surface remains. On Brownsman, high seas could threaten the remains of the

boatsafe and this should be recorded and consolidated as necessary. Another issue is the

corrosion of iron work on the islands by the salt water. This appears to be monitored with regards

the buildings but does have an impact on the various boat rings and fittings across the site which

are gradually deteriorating. The rings and fittings have been recorded as part of this project and

no further action is recommended.

Footfall erosion from visitors is not seen as an issue as visitors are kept to paths on Inner Farne

and Staple. There could be a potential problem in the courtyard with damage to the cross wall etc.



and visitors should be encouraged to keep to the main path.

ACTION: 1) Regular monitoring on the east side of Inner Farne and north-eastern point of

Brownsman for erosion damage at the end of every winter, or after storms (if possible).

Burrowing wildlife

The puffin burrows have the potential to damage sub-surface archaeology but are kept mostly

away from highly sensitive archaeological areas. There is the potential for spot finds – flint and

pottery- to turn up in the burrow upcast and the eagle eyed wardens should be on the look out for

anything out of the ordinary. If anything does surface a rough note of its location should be made

(or hand-held GPS point if available), a quick photograph taken, and the item collected and

reported to the National Trust Archaeologist, Harry Beamish (01670 773916).

ACTION: 1) Record any stray finds which appear in the upcast from burrows.

Setting

The main threat to setting is from large numbers of visitor who frequent the islands each year.

This has been recognised as an issue in the past by the Trust (although this was in relation to

wildlife disturbance) and measures have been put in place to limit numbers. The island is

constantly surrounded by boats in the high season but this is an unavoidable consequence of the

interest and delight that the islands attract. In reality the visitors leave little lasting impact and are

vital to the broader significance of the site, but one issue of note are the iron tethering pins used

to rope off the visitor’s access paths. On Farne these are not a big problem because of the size

on the island but on Staple the black tethering pins litter the rocks and detract from the drama of

The Pinnacle. These pins are themselves part of the archaeology of the site, being installed by

the Trust some time ago, and are a necessary health and safety measure but it is recommended

that they be rationalised and reduced if possible. Painting the pins a different colour rather than

black gloss may also help, although it is recognised that they need to be painted to protect

against erosion.

ACTION: 1) attempt to rationalise the rope tethering pins on Staple.



Plate 25: rope tethering pins stretching into the distance and scattered over the headland adjacent to the

Pinnacle on Staple

Cultivation/Gardening

The ridge and furrow on the site is quite ephemeral and prone to damage but this is recognised

by the wardens and the area is just mown to keep down the Campion. Within the enclosed garden

areas some gardening and vegetable growing is taking place and this is not a problem. The only

area where there is an issue is in the north-west corner of the Brownsman enclosure (16085)

where there are possibly the remains of a dwelling or structure. This area of the enclosure should

be avoided although elsewhere is not an issue as the area was extensively cultivated in the 19th

century.

Vandalism and Litter

Vandalism does not appear to be a problem on site, although it has been in the past. Out of

season, when the wardens are not in residence, is probably the period of greatest risk. Litter

dumped by visitors is not an issue but there is a problem with the rubbish from the wardens.

Accepting that there is a problem on the island with where to store rubbish it was piled up and

causing and eyesore both in the monastic courtyard and around the base of the hospitium. On

Brownsman rubbish was being dumped in bags within the walled enclosure (16085) and there

had also been a bonfire in this location. Around the rocks close to the beacon tower there were

also dumped car tyres. Admittedly the field visit to Inner Farne was at the end of season so there

was a great deal of preparation in closing up the island for the winter but attempts should be



made to contain rubbish in one place, away from any sensitive areas of archaeology.

Plates 26 & 27: rubbish and bonfire site within the walled enclosure on Brownsman (16085) this is within the

area of the probable post medieval structure, and rubbish piled up around the ‘fishe house’ or hospitium

(10467) on Inner Farne

ACTION: 1) Rubbish should be stored in agreed areas, and any bonfires kept away from the

archaeology (as detailed in the gazetteer).



Gazetteer (see NTSMR for full descriptions and references)

(Not found = looked for but not found; Not seen =not looked for)

NT

SMR

Name NGR Date Source Condition Description Image

10450 St.

Cuthbert's

Chapel;

Inner

Farne

421806,

635989

Medieval &

Post

Medieval

NCC HER

(5894)

LB II*

(5/172)

SM (24642)

NT_SMR

NMR (8302)

Good St Cuthbert's Chapel is a rectangular single cell building,

externally measuring c.15.5m east-west by c.5.1m north-

south, with walls c.0.7m thick. In its present form the

chapel dates to c.1370, although there is 12th or 13th

century masonry in the lower part of the north wall

marked by a freestone dado, now 1.3mabove ground

level. This earlier masonry is coursed ashlar, but the

remainder of the chapel is constructed of whinstone

rubble. The chapel was restored in the 1840s by

Archdeacon Thorp. The entrance to the chapel is in the

south wall through an ogee headed doorway which has

been restored. Also in the south wall are three windows,

two of which are 19th century, while at the eastern end is

an original 14th century window which is now blocked. In

the east wall is a 19th century window. The north wall has

no openings. In the west wall of the chapel is a blocked

recess interpreted as a hatch or window. Externally,

against the west wall, are the foundations of a small room

which may be a galilee, a porch or chapel at the entrance

of a church, a feature typical of churches dedicated to St

Cuthbert; the upper parts were removed c.1842. It

measures 2m by 1.5m internally with walls 1.2m thick and

standing up to 1.2m high; there is an entrance with two



NT

SMR


steps down in the south wall. Internally, the chapel is

furnished with 17th century woodwork made for Bishop

Cosin c.1665 at Durham Cathedral and removed to Inner

Farne in the 1840s by Archdeacon Thorp. In 1927

renovations were made by the NT, including the

restoration at York of the east window.

10451 St. Mary's

Chapel;

Inner

Farne

(remains

now in

informatio

n centre)

421801,

635977

Medieval NCC HER

(5895)

LB II

(5/175)

SM (24642)

NT_SMR

Good The remains of a chapel, St Mary's, are incorporated in

the NT visitor centre 8m across the east court from the

Chapel of St Cuthbert (10450). The building externally

measures 8.5m east-west by 5m north-south with walls

0.8m thick. A detailed survey of the complex conducted

c.1930. The chapel originally extended further west to

give a total length of c.16m, equivalent to that of St

Cuthbert's across the courtyard. The western end has

been completely destroyed and no foundations were

found. The jambs of a blocked doorway survive in the

south wall of the chapel 2.5m beyond the west end of the

current building. The south east corner survives to its

original height of c.4m, but elsewhere only the base

course is of medieval fabric, the upper parts having been

added when the building was made into a store by Trinity

House. The chapel is believed to date from the late 12th



NT

SMR


or 13th century. The building was converted into an

information centre after it was given to the National Trust

in 1969.

10452 Prior

Castell's

Tower,

Inner

Farne

421782,

635997

Medieval &

Post

Medieval

SM (24642)

LBI I (5/176)

NCC HER

(5889)

NMR

(1085348)

Good

/Moderate

The tower is said by Leland (c.1838) to have been built

c.1500 by Thomas Castell, Prior of Durham (1494-1519),

but it appears to contain some earlier work, including

small lancet windows on the stairs and trefoiled piscina

on the first floor (thought to be from St Cuthbert's

Chapel). After the Dissolution the tower was used as a

fort between 1559 and 1637. Later in the 17th century

Charles II authorised the first official lighthouse on Inner

Farne which comprised a beacon on top of the tower. The

tower was restored in 1848 by the Venerable Charles

Thorp, Archdeacon of Durham (1831-62). He inserted

new windows in the north wall and refitted the interior.

Repairs have also been made by the National Trust in

1927-28. Full survey made in 1998.

The tower measures 12.3m north-south by 7.3m east-

west with walls 1.4m-1.8m thick. It originally stood to four

storeys but is now only three storeys. It is constructed of

rubble masonry with ashlar quoins and a chamfered

plinth course. The entrance is in the east wall through a

low round headed doorway. The ground floor is tunnel

vaulted and originally contained a well, sometimes called

St Cuthbert's Well (16060), which has now been covered



NT

SMR


over and is no longer visible. The first floor contains a

garderobe or latrine and two 18th century fireplaces, one

incorporating earlier masonry. The upper floors are

reached by a staircase in the thickness of the wall which

ends in a spiral staircase to the roof at the SE corner.

10453 Stone

Coffin

(in St.

Cuthbert’s

Chapel)

421811,

635980

Medieval

Site

Survey

NT_SMR

LB II (5/173)

Good Stone coffin, measuring 2.00m x 0.80m (head) x 0.50m

(feet) x 0.45m high. Possibly of Master Thomas Sparowe

who died c.1430, which now rests c.9m south of St

Cuthbert's Chapel



NT

SMR


10454/

10455

Monastic

Enclosure

&

Benedictin

e Cell

Inner

Farne

421812,

635909

Early

Medieval

SM (24642)

NCC HER

(5880),

(5882)

NT SMR

NMR (8298)

Good Pre-Conquest monastic cell and post-Conquest monastic

settlement on Inner Farne. The monument includes the

remains of a pre-Conquest monastic cell and a post-

Conquest Benedictine monastic settlement. The visible

remains include four medieval standing buildings: St

Cuthbert's Chapel, St Mary's Chapel, which is now used

as a visitor centre, Prior Castell's tower and hospitium

(guest house). There is also a well, traditionally

associated with St Cuthbert and a medieval field system.

Inner Farne is associated with St Aidan who visited the

island in AD 651 and St Cuthbert who lived there

between AD 676 and 684 and returned to the island in

AD 687 to die. Bede records that Cuthbert built a cell,

landing place and guest house and grew barley. A

succession of hermits followed Cuthbert to Inner Farne,

but the island is said to have lost most of its religious

character by the 12th century. The last hermit was

Thomas de Melsonby, Prior of Durham, who died here in

1246. In 1255 a small Benedictine monastery, the House

of Farne, was established on the island by the Monastery

of Durham. After the Dissolution in 1536 the islands were

granted to the Dean and Chapter of Durham. The islands

were leased from 1673 until the early 19th century and

there was a succession of tenants. Archdeacon Thorp

bought the islands in 1861 and the National Trust



NT

SMR


acquired the islands in 1925.

10456 `Fishe

House';

`Hospitium

' Inner

Farne

421843,6

35966

Medieval SM (24642)

NCC HER

(5890)

NT SMR

Good,

though

surrounded

by rubbish.

Outside the monastic enclosure is a small building

constructed largely of random rubble which measures

4.7m by 3.8m with walls 1.4m high and a doorway in the

east end. The walls are 0.5m thick, except in the north

east corner where they are 0.9m thick; three courses of

dressed stone are visible at this corner. The roof dates

from the 1970s. There are no architectural features to

date this feature but the greater thickness of the north

wall, out of all proportion to the size of the present

building, suggests that it is part of a much older structure,

probably the 'Fish House' shown by Speed in 1611 and

originally the 14th century described in the account roll of

1360-61 as the 'Hall of St Cuthbert', was built on the

same site, presumably of stone, but with a thatched roof.

The remains of a wall lies 9m south of the hospitium

running east-west. It measures 1m wide and stands

0.1mhigh, but its function is not known.



NT

SMR


10457 Well nr.

Fishe

House

421842,

635975

Medieval 1st Edition

OS

NT_SMR

NCC HER

(5884)

SM (24642)

NMR (8308)

Not Found/

Destroyed

Bede's account of the life of St Cuthbert states that there

are no natural springs on the island and he describes the

well as having been ‘created’ by Cuthbert digging two pits

and praying to God, as a result of which the two holes

filled with water. The site of the well has not been located

but known to be close to the hospitium. Shown on the first

edition OS map as lying N of the hospitium (now under

the modern path from the harbour)

10458 Ridge &

Furrow

421756,

635932

Medieval SM (24642)

NT_SMR

Modern

Aerials

NCC HER

(5898)

Good/

Moderate

Ridge and Furrow associated with monastic settlement.

Block clearly visible on aerial photographs but may have

extended further north into area now covered by the

walled garden, traces also visible to the SE side of track.

10459 Low Pond 421763,

635893

20th

century

Site Survey

NT_SMR

Good/

Moderate

Large pond associated with a drainage channel leading

down from the NW end of the old lighthouse cottage

enclosure. Channel measures 2m across in places

narrowing down to 1m and was nearly 1m deep. Pond is

one of three ponds in this area, all linked together by

drainage channels. Not shown on any of the historic OS

maps so presumably 20th century features. Fragments of

stone work seen around the edges. Possibly as sluice



NT

SMR


(some gearing seen).

10460 Middle

Pond

421785

635884

20th

century

Site Survey

NT_SMR

Good/

Moderate

Middle of three ponds not shown on any of the historic

OS maps so presumably 20th century features. Although

there is a single pond shown in this area on 2nd edition

OS (but not third) so presumably always a wet area.

Feeds directly into High Pond (10461)

10461 High Pond

nr to High

Light,

Inner

Farne

421814,

635872

l.19th

century

2nd Edition

Site Survey

Good Final of three ponds not shown on any of the historic OS

maps so presumably 20th century features. Although

there is a single pond shown in this area on 2nd edition

OS (but not third) so presumably always a wet area.

Feeds directly into High Pond (10461). A channel leads

down from the pond to a point just above the harbour.

Unclear where is drains to, may just seep into the rock or

into old well shaft.

10462 Trinity

House

Track

421694,

635938

421789,

635836

421810,

635918

421858,

635984

19th

Century

1st edition

OS

Good Track running between the harbour and High Light

Lighthouse. Appears on first edition OS map. There is a

second track running to Low Light also shown. Track now

forms part of modern footpath around the island.



NT

SMR


10463 Medieval

Cross Site

High Light

Lighthous

e, Inner

Farne

421792,

635792

Medieval SM (24642)

NT_SMR

NMR (8305)

Destroyed Site of Medieval cross said to be erected on the point

where the monks heralded the death of St Cuthbert to the

mainland. No evidence survives. Possible that the

Nimbus cross head now located in the chapel might be a

remnant of this cross (10467) although NMR entry notes

that Haverfield and Greenwell discovered an incomplete

mid 8th-mid 9th century cross shaft lying near St

Cuthbert's chapel which is now in the Monk's Dormitory,

Durham.

10464 Lighthous

e Cottages

421751,

635856

e. 19th

century

SM (24642)

NT_SMR

1st Ed OS

Destroyed Enclosure and cottages associated with High Light

Lighthouse shown on first edition OS map but no longer

extant. At least four buildings shown on the map and

three small paddocks or enclosures. Accommodation for

lighthouse keeper’s (both High and Low Lights). The

enclosure is still shown on the Third edition OS map

(1923). Traces of enclosures visible on modern aerial

photographs.

10465 Architectur

al

fragment

(in St.

Cuthbert’s

courtyard)

421804,6

35984

Medieval

Site

Survey

NT_SMR Good Fragments of tracery leaning against font (10471)



NT

SMR


10466 Grave

Slab

(in St.

Cuthbert’s

Chapel)

421809,

635989

Medieval NT_SMR Good Currently situated on the East side of the chapel.

Features Sword and open book motif, measures 1.23m x

0.25m narrowing down to 0.38m at the top, broken at the

feet, measures 0.13m thick.

10467 Grave

Slab

(in St.

Cuthbert’s

Chapel)

421811,

635988

Medieval NT_SMR Good Currently situated on the East side of the chapel. Small

grave slab adjacent to (10466). Measures 0.61m x 0.23m

(top), 0.18m (feet). Broken on one side. Features crudely

carved sword and cross.

10468 Architectur

al

fragment

(in St.

Cuthbert’s

Chapel)

421811,

635988

Medieval

Site

Survey

NT_SMR Good Currently located on the west side of the chapel, this is a

large, poorly weathered slab featuring the representation

of a male head – probably a Christ figure, with

surrounding nimbus. Measures 0.70m x 0.62 and stands

0.95m high. 0.12m thick. Might be a fragment of the

medieval St Cuthbert’s cross (10463).



NT

SMR


10469 Grave

Slab

(in St.

Cuthbert’s

Chapel)

421811,

635988

Medieval NT_SMR Good Currently located on the West side of the chapel, this is a

large, well-carved slab in white limestone. Features a

sword and a cross. In poor condition (heavily weathered)

West side is broken measures 1.90m x 0.39m x 0.40m

and is 0.20m thick.

10470 Child’s

Coffin

Stone

Medieval NT_SMR Not Found Mentioned on NT_SMR but not found onsite – might be

(10467) but only three grave slabs seen.

10471 Font 421804,6

35984

Post

Medieval

NT_SMR

LB II (5/174)

Good Octagonal font is monastic courtyard, brought to the

Island in the 19th century. Measures 9.9m across the

bowl. Set on square base which measures 1.10m across.

Probably late 15th century and moved here from

Gateshead parish church by Archdeacon Thorp.

10472 Enclosure

Bank

NT_SMR Not Found Site recorded on NT_SMR but unclear which feature this

refers to.

10473 Wall

Footings

421797,

635997

421788,

635976

Medieval 1st edition

OS

Watt 1951

NT_SMR

Moderate Wall foundations extending N-S across monastic

courtyard dividing East Court (16062) from Tower

Courtyard (16061). Probably contemporary with St

Cuthbert’s and St Mary's forming the west wall of the

medieval enclosure.

10476 Grave Medieval NT_SMR Not Found Grave Cover Slab in Courtyard, Not Seen.



NT

SMR


Cover

10477 South Wall

of

Courtyard

421795,

635976

421779,

635981

Medieval/

Post

Medieval

1st edition

OS

NT_SMR

Moderate South wall of monastic enclosure, associated with East

(16062) and Tower (16061) Courtyards.

10478 North Wall

of

Courtyard

421802,

635994

421791,

636001

Medieval/

Post

Medieval

1st edition

OS

NT_SMR

Moderate North wall of monastic compound - forms part of East

(16062), North (16062) and Tower Courtyards (16061).

Part of Medieval monastic enclosure.



NT

SMR


16052 High Light

Lighthous

e, Inner

Farne

(Trinity

House)

421780,

635807

e. 19th

century

NCC HER

(5896)

LB II (5/177)

NMR

(1085230)

Good Lighthouse and Keeper's Cottage. Grade II listed

building. Built 1811 by Daniel Alexander. It is a squat,

compact station, with a circular white tower 13 m in

height. The lantern and gallery with its closely strutted

railings was installed with reflectors and Argand lamps.

The keeper’s cottages were sited just to the rear of the

tower, and the whole station is surrounded by a stone

wall. Built at the same time as Low Light (16053) also by

Alexander. Converted to automatic operation in 1910 with

an acetylene light controlled sun valve. This remained

until the lighthouse was again modernised and converted

to solar power in late 1996. Station now controlled by a

telemetry link from Trinity House control centre in

Harwich.

16053 Low Light

Lighthous

e, Inner

Farne

421678,

635935

e. 19th

century

NT_SMR

NCC HER

(5897)

Moderate/

Poor

The Low Light lighthouse was built in 1810 and designed

by Daniel Alexander, who also designed High Light

(16052) and demolished in 1909-10. It was octagonal and

stood 8m high. Possibly parts of the masonry can be

seen near the west cliff. Not inspected for H & S reasons.

16054 Longstone

Lighthous

e

424599,

638985

Mid 19th

century

1st edition

OS

Trinity

Good Situated on Longstone Rock, a light was requested for

these islands by Sir John Clayton in the late 17th century

and by Captain J. Blackett in 1755 but both were



NT

SMR


House

rejected. Not until 1826 that lighthouse was built. It was,

designed and built by Joseph Nelson is a red and white

circular tower built of rough stone with iron railings around

the lantern gallery. Originally featured Argand lamps with

12 burners, parabolic reflectors 21 inches in diameter and

9 inches deep and a catadioptric optical apparatus. The

cost of the Lighthouse and the dwellings was

approximately £4,771, the lantern alone costing £1,441.

It is most famous as the scene of the Forfarshire wreck

and the exploits of Grace Darling, a daughter of the

keeper in charge. Major alterations were made to the

Lighthouse in 1952 and the light was converted to

electricity. Longstone Lighthouse was converted to

automatic operation in September 1990 and is now

monitored from the Trinity House Operations Control

Centre at Harwich



NT

SMR


16055 Brownsma

n

Lighthous

e tower

and

cottage

423666,6

37914

Late 18th

century

/e. 19th

century

Trinity

House

1st edition

OS

LB (5/171)

NCC HER

(5887)

Good Lighthouse Cottage and stump of lighthouse base, built in

1810 to replace the 18th century beacon (16056) to the

SE. Lighthouse only used for a brief period of time before

being replaced by Longstone, built in 1826. Dressed

stone with Welsh slate roof. Single-storey, 2-bay cottage

with two 12-pane segment-headed windows. Gabled roof

with hipped dormer. Attached to left of cottage round

stump of lighthouse has 3 small 6-panel, segment-

headed fixed windows. Door on right return.

16056 Brownsma

n Tower

423688,

637896

18th

century

1st Edition

OS

NMR (8313)

Moderate In 1776 an agreement was made between Trinity House

and Mr J Blackett for the latter to build two lighthouses at

his own expense. On 1 December 1778 two lighthouses

exhibited lights, one on Farne Island and the other on the

southern end of Staples Island. The Staples Island light

was blown down in 1784 and rebuilt on Brownsman

Island in 1791, the rebuilt tower was knocked down by

heavy seas in 1800 and a new tower (16055) rebuilt.

Beacon originally coal powered and described in 1807 as

being in poor condition. Built of local stone from the

island.



NT

SMR


16057 Garden/

Enclosure,

Brownsma

n

423714,6

37890

18th

century

1st Edition

OS

Moderate Remains of a small walled enclosure associated with the

Brownsman Beacon. Probably a kaleyard or garden for

the lighthouse keeper.

16058 Remains

of

Lighthous

e Beacon,

Staple

423791,6

37457

18th

century

1st Edition

OS

NCC HER

(5886)

NMR (8312)

Good Remains of a small square cottage lighthouse, built by

Capt. John Blackett circa 1778, situated on Staple or

Pinnacle Island. It originally had a pitched roof crowned

by a tall lantern fitted with oil lamps.

16059 Small

Building

on South

Wamses

423506,6

38260

e. 19th

century

1st Edition

OS

Site Survey

Moderate Small Building shown on first edition OS Map, small

fishing hut or dwelling. Shown on First edition OS map.

Survives in a semi-ruinous state.



NT

SMR


16060 Well in

Tower

House

421781,

635995

Post

Medieval/

Medieval

Site Survey Good The well in the tower is a stone lined cavity approached

by steps. Although it is water-filled it could not be

ascertained whether the water came from a spring or was

merely the result of seepage. Mooted as being the

second of the wells associated with St. Cuthbert.

Certainly provided a source of fresh water for the tower

house/fort.

16061 Tower

Courtyard

421788,6

35989

Post

Medieval?

1st edition

OS

Watt 1951

Good Tower Court. Divided from the East Enclosure (16062) by

wall (10473), and entered vial a central doorway. Access

could also be obtained through the north enclosure. Only

part of the old wall survives but line probably marked by

the present modern wall.

16062 East

Courtyard

&

Graveyard

, Inner

Farne

421800,

635985

Post

Medieval/

Medieval

NCC HER

(5891)

SM (24642)

Good East Court and graveyard - Entrance to the tower and

chapel is today through the east court. This had obviously

been a graveyard for in 1816 many bones and three

stone coffins were found there. The bones were

afterwards reinterred in the north enclosure. One of the

coffins held three skeletons and was reburied close to the

south wall of the chapel. A wall, similar to that

surrounding the north enclosure, divided the east

enclosure from the courtyard of the tower. Fragments of

the walling which formed the east and west sides of the

east court are still visible. There are traces of a doorway

in each of these walls.



NT

SMR


16063 North

Courtyard

&

Graveyard

421805,

636004

Post

Medieval/

Medieval

NCC HER

(5892)

SM (24642)

Moderate The original entrance into the monastic complex was

through the north court. The court is irregular in shape

and defined by a stone wall standing up to 1.5m high and

0.9m wide. It measures 24m east-west by a maximum

20.5m north-south. The area enclosed is level but outside

the north wall of the court the ground falls away steeply

for 2m-3m. The west wall of the court, which has fallen

since 1848, originally crossed an inlet called St Cuthbert's

Gut and joined the north wall of the tower. The present

west wall, built before 1848, is curved around the head of

the inlet and joins a modern wall between the tower and

St Cuthbert's Chapel. The south side of the court is

formed by the north walls of St Cuthbert's Chapel and the

tower respectively, with the gap in between filled by a wall

built in 1930. Entry to the court was by an arched

gateway 2.3m wide in the east wall.

16064 Walled

Garden,

Inner

Farne

421786,

635963

Post

Medieval

1st Edition

OS

NCC HER

(5898)

Moderate Walled Garden measuring 36 x 24m and adjacent to

southern side of monastic enclosure. Dry stone walls

constructed of local stone and including some large sea

cobbles and pieces of re-used masonry, particularly in the

entrances. Three entrances - 2 wets and 1 east. Kaleyard

or garden, Post medieval in date - seems to overlie ridge

and furrow.



NT

SMR


16065 Harbour 421884,

635991

Post

Medieval

1st Edition

OS

Site Survey

Good Harbour, largely rebuilt but probably located in this area

since the early medieval period as the most sheltered

landing point on the island. Location of monastic cell and

hospitium would certain support this idea.

16066 Memorial

to Grace

Darling

421804,

635991

Post

Medieval

Site Survey Good Memorial in St Cuthbert’s Chapel to Grace Darling who in

1838, along with her father, saved 13 people from the

wreck of the SS Forfarshire. Her father was lighthouse

keeper on Longstone (and Brownsman beforehand).

16067 Terracing

above

Harbour

421871,

635954

Post

medieval

Site Survey Moderate Area of terracing above the harbour - comprises 2

platforms of terrace formed by 3 revetment walls made of

cobbles and local stone, each terrace about 20m long.

Walls in poor condition in part, almost lost. Probably 19th

terraces for growing; sheltered area close to well.

Windlass shown here on 1st edition OS but could be

coastal defences against erosion.



NT

SMR


16068 Quarrying 421937,

635846

Post

medieval

Site Survey Good Some evidence of quarrying on cliffs. Looks to be cutting

beds.

16069 Boundary

Post

421804,6

35785

Post

Medieval

Site Survey Good Trinity House boundary markers, Round headed and

marked on one site with the letters ‘T.H’ Stones measure

0.25m across and stands 0.75m high. Dates to Trinity

House purchase of land from the Blacketts in 1825 or

may have been erected to mark the land following

Archdeacon purchasing the rest of the island in 1861.

16070 Boundary

Post

421781,6

35834

Post

Medieval









NT

SMR


16071 Boundary

Post

421735,6

35897

Post

Medieval

Site Survey Good Trinity House Marker Post, Round headed and marked

on one site with the letters ‘T.H’ Stones measure 0.25m

across and stands 0.50m high.

16072 Pack

walling

along cliff

edge,

inner

Farne

421678,6

35913

Post

Medieval

Site Survey Moderate Area of dry-stone pack walling along cliff edge, located in

small recess. Might be associated with Low Light

lighthouse (16053) or possibly part of WWII fortifications

as area has direct views to Bamburgh. There is a water

pipe in this location, but walling is not directly related to

this. Area approached by path with kerb stones

16073 Boundary

Post

421676,6

35944

Post

Medieval









NT

SMR


16074 Boat

Rings,

Inner

Farne

421820,6

36018

421862,6

35980

421891,6

35996

421891,4

3599642

1863,635

978

421862,6

35980

421881,6

35990

421891,6

35996

421900,6

36005

421848,6

35965

19th

century

Modern

WWII?

Site Survey Varies Two main types of boat rings feature across the island;

both concentrated on the northern side, around the

harbour. The First (Type A) are about 0.10m high and

have a ring approx. 0.9m in diameter and is generally set

in concrete. These are the grounding pins for boat rings

which form two pieces (pin and ring). Some of these are

located quite high up on the shoreline so may be for

securing something else and possibly tethering pins for

WWII barbed wire.

The second type (Type B), vary in size but average

0.25m diameter and located around the harbour area.

Some of iron, others of galvanised steel. These are set

much closer to the ground than type A and mostly have

their rings still attached possibly later in date. Large

numbers of both types found around harbour.



NT

SMR


16075 Tethering

Pins

(Type B),

Inner

Farne

421822,6

36031

Modern

WWII?

Site Survey Moderate Line of iron tethering pins, set on north side of the island

and about 10m apart (around 10 survive in total). Stand

0.46m high and have a head diameter of 0.06m. Vary

considerably from type A (16074) and are similar to those

found today on Staple and still used to run ropes through

as fencing for marking visitor paths. Assume these are

the same, but could be associated with the war.

16076 Boatsafe,

Brownsma

n

423590,6

37935

18th/19th

century

Site Survey

1st Edition

OS

Moderate Boatsafe shown on first edition map. Probably associated

with the 19th century lighthouse but could be slightly early

and linked with late 18th century beacon. Safe used to

haul the lifeboat away from the high seas, probably

associated with a ramp launching to the sea; scored

marks found on rocks in front of the feature are probably

associated with the boat keel over the rocks to launch.

Comprises two, low parallel walls set 2m apart. Walls

stand 0.80m high.

16077 Carbide

on cliff

face

421753,

635804

19th

century

Site Survey Moderate Calcium Carbide from the light houses built up on the SW

side of the cliff. Elsewhere the cliffs are white from bird

droppings but the pattern here is quite concentrated.



NT

SMR


16078 Cottage/

Building,

West

Wideopen

422159,6

36006

19th

century?

1st Edition

OS

Watts 1951,

40

Not Seen Structure shown on 1st edition OS map c. 1850, outline

just visible on modern aerial photographs. Not on 2nd

edition map. Not visited.

16079 Hut on

West

Wideopen

422258,

636009

19th

century?

1st Edition

OS

Not Seen Structure shown on 1st edition OS map c. 1850, no

evidence on aerial photographs. Not on 2nd edition map.

Not visited. A ‘ware-cutters’ hut occupied by kelp

collectors

As above

16080 Windlass 421863,

635935

19th

century

1st Edition

OS

Destroyed Windlass marked on first edition OS map just above

harbour, close to hospitium. Might be associated with the

well marked in this area or used to winch material up from

the harbour.

16081 Brownsma

n Harbour

423836,

637710

Modern Site Survey Good Modern Harbour, not shown on third edition OS, probably

date to NT ownership of the islands so post 1926.



NT

SMR


16082 Boat

Rings

Brownsma

n

423830,

637729

423841,6

37735

423835,6

37749

423844,6

37755

423834,

637738

423818,6

37736

423825,6

37723

423819,6

37726

423837,6

37752

423823,6

37742

423577,6

37941

423577,6

37944

423636,6

19th

century to

modern

Site Survey Various Two main types of boat rings feature across the island.

The First (Type A) are about 0.10m high and have a ring

approx. 0.9m in diameter and is generally set in concrete.

These are the grounding pins for boat rings which form

two pieces (pin and ring). Large number around harbour.

The second type (Type B), vary in size but average

0.25m diameter and located around the harbour area.

Some of iron, others of galvanised steel. These are set

much closer to the ground than type A and mostly have

their rings still attached possibly later in date.



NT

SMR


37857

423640,6

37851

423655,6

37849

423664,6

37835

16083 Structure –

Boat Safe,

Brownsma

n

423781,6

37763

18th/19th

century

1st Edition

OS

Destroyed Structure shown on first edition OS just above current

jetty at southern end of the island. No surviving evidence

but linked to lighthouse track on 1st edition map and

seems probably that this was a boatsafe or store shed.

16084 Platform?,

Brownsma

n

423820,

637745

Modern Site Survey Moderate Series of holes and bolts drilled into rock – no discernible

shape but must relate to some kind of platform or

structure – maybe a winch?

16085 Walled

Enclosure,

Brownsma

n

423760,

637836

19th

century

Site Survey

1st edition

OS

Moderate Dry-stone walled enclosure entered from the NE. In the

NW corner there are the remains of a structure, maybe a

cottage or ancillary building which features a blocked

window and door. The wall in this area is also curved.

Feature shown on 1st edition OS map with a second



NT

SMR


extension at the southern end (now gone). Looks to be a

crofter’s cottage with enclosure but already abandoned

by the early 19th century. Small pond to the south only

appears on modern maps of the area.

16086 Wreck,

South

Wamses

423455,6

38251

Modern Site Survey

Moderate Wreck of the schooner Spica of Riga, still visible on South

Wamses foreshore.

16087 Seat,

Brownsma

n

18th/19th

century

Site Survey

1st edition

OS

Not Found ‘Seat’ shown on first edition OS map – no evidence seen



NT

SMR


16088 Well,

Brownsma

n

423901,

637748

18th/19th

century

Site Survey

1st edition

OS

Not Found Well shown on first edition OS map and associated with

lighthouse station.

16089 Track,

Brownsma

n

423796,6

37795

423744,6

37862

423648,6

37916

423595,6

37939

18th/19th

century

Site Survey

1st edition

OS

Good Track leading from the structure (Boatsafe) at the

southern end of the island to the lighthouse, and then the

boatsafe at the northern end of the island. Original track

marked on first edition OS. Existing path follows the old

track fro the most part – modern track stabilised with duck

boards.



NT

SMR


16090 Enclosure,

Staple

423723,6

37632

18th/19th

century

Site Survey

1st edition

OS

Moderate Dry-stone wall enclosure which survives in parts up to

1.10m high. Located at the northern end of the island.

Might possibly be a building at the NE corner. No wall

visible on the seaside so probably eroded away.

Measures approx. 25m NE to SW. Shown on first edition

OS but only in outline.

16091 Tethering

Pin,

Brownsma

n

423818,

637726

Modern Site Survey Good Tethering pin with screw head. Different from the boat

rings seen across the island. Might be associated with the

war, possibly for attaching a radio receiver aerial? Drilled

into rock, not set in concrete.

16092 Structure,

Brownsma

n

423959,6

37753

Modern? Site Survey Moderate Small dry-stone wall, 3 courses high. Measures 4m long

and stands 0.80m high. Located close to edge of

promontory. Possibly a modern bird watchers hide or

similar feature.



NT

SMR


16093 Walled

Enclosure

and

Building,

Brownsma

n

423627,6

37900

19th

century

Site Survey Poor Dry-stone wall enclosure or garden set just to the SW of

the Brownsman Lighthouse. Wall stands 0.80m high but

is badly overgrown. Small structure at NE end was

probably for animals – pigs or chickens or a store shed.

Has been re-roofed and used as a utility shed. Enclosure

shown as much bigger on the 1st edition OS – southern

wall missing.

16094 Wall,

Brownsma

n

423688,6

37902

19th

century

Site Survey Moderate Curved wall at the base of the Brownsman Beacon

Tower. Extends for approx. 4m

16095 Tethering

Pins,

Staple

423703,6

37525

Modern Site Survey Good Across the island are a series of tethering pins which

stand about 0.90m high with a ring measuring 0.05m

wide. These are used to rope off areas for visitors to the

island. Features still used but could date to when the

island first opened to tourist and hence an element of the

site’s history and visually a very dominant feature. Pins

start at the jetty and extend across the whole island. (One

point given as a reference).



NT

SMR


16096 Boat

Rings,

Staple

423698,6

37521

423698,6

37517

423699,6

37514

423702,6

37537

423697,6

37554

423665,6

37670

423676,6

37696

423798,6

37635

423819,6

37611

423852,6

37612

423859,6

37625

19th

century –

modern

Site Survey Varies Two main types of boat rings feature across the island;

both concentrated on the west side, around the modern

jetty and the east side, opposite Brownsman. The First

(Type A) are about 0.10m high and have a ring approx.

0.9m in diameter and is generally set in concrete. These

are the grounding pins for boat rings which form two

pieces (pin and ring). The second type (Type B), vary in

size but average 0.25m diameter and located around the

harbour area. Some of iron, others of galvanised steel.

These are set much closer to the ground than type A and

mostly have their rings still attached possibly later in date.

16097 Wreck,

Big Harcar

423783,

638466

19th

century

1st edition Os Destroyed Wreck of the Steamshire Forfarshire. Wrecked on the

September 7th 1838 with the loss of 43 people

16098 Flint 423740,6 Mesolithic? NCC HER Find Spot Flint flake found by Mr. Francis Buckley on the occasion



NT

SMR


Flake,

Staple

37490 (20740) of the Berwickshire Naturalists' Club meeting on the

various Farne Islands on the 21st June 1923. Described

as a "more characteristic flake... a small triangular

fragment with bulb of percussion an d several small

single flint flake scars on the other face caused by the

previous detachment of small flakes; this flake also

showed secondary working along the cutting edge"

considered of the Tardenois [Mesolithic] period . Current

location unknown.

16099 Flint

Flake,

Inner

Farne

421750,6

35940

Mesolithic NCC HER

(20739)

Find Spot Flint flake found by Mr. Francis Buckley on the occasion

of the Berwickshire Naturalists' Club meeting on the

various Farne Islands on the 21st June 1923. Described

as a "single flint flake showing the bulb of percussion, but

with only slight signs of usage" considered of the

Tardenois [Mesolithic] period Current location of the flake

unknown .

15600 Burials,

Inner

Farne

421879,6

35979

Medieval Site Survey Find Spot Burials found on Inner Farne during path restoration

15601 Well Medieval Speeds Map

1611

E. 19th

century Map

(NT 1986)

Moderate Slight depression in the ground which might be

associated with the well shown on Speeds 1611 map.

One of the wells associated with the medieval monastic

settlement.



Bibliography

Archaeo-Environment (2009a) Historic Environment Survey – National Trust

Northumberland Coast – Seahouses

Archaeo-Environment (2009b) Historic Environment Survey – National Trust

Northumberland Coast – Lindisfarne

Archaeo-Environment (2009c) Historic Environment Survey – National Trust

Northumberland Coast – Dunstanburgh

Bede A History of the English Church and Peoples Trans.

Sherley-Price (1985)

Bede The Life and Miracles of St. Cuthbert, Bishop of

Lindesfarne Trans. J.A. Giles, 1910

Goddard, R (1956) A Guide to the Farne Islands

Graham, F. (1972) The Farne Islands – A Short History

Hague, D.B & Christie, R (1975) Lighthouses

Hardie, C and Rushton, S 2000 The Tides of Time: Archaeology on the Northumberland

Coast

Higham, N (2006) (Re-)Reading Bede: The Ecclesiastical History in Context

Hutchinson, W. 1776. A View of Northumberland. Vol. II

Honeyman, H.L. (1930) Report on Northumberland County Monument 104 in

Farne Islands Association report of 1930

National Trust 2000 Archaeology and the Historic Environment

National Trust (1986) The National Trust Nature Reserves – Inner Farne

Northumberland

Northumberland Coast AONB 2004 Northumberland Coast Area of Outstanding Natural

Beauty Management Plan 2004-2009

Mackenzie, E (1825) View of the County of Northumberland. Vol 1

Miles. A.D. (2003) The Oxford Book of Place Names

Parsons and White 1828 Directory for Northumberland

Petts, D 2006 Shared Visions: The North East Regional Research

Framework for the Historic Environment (NERRF)

Raine, J, 1852 History and Antiquities of North Durham

Ryder, P (1996) St Cuthbert’s Chapel, Inner Farne

Tomlinson, W. W (1888) Comprehensive Guide to Northumberland

Waddington, C (2007) Mesolithic Settlement in the North Sea Basin: A Case

Study from Howick, North-East England

Watt G, (1951) The Farne Islands

Maps of the Farnes

Speed, 1611, Map of Farne

1637, Saxton (small scale)



1645, Blaeu, map of the Northumberland ( which is the same as Speed).

Armstrong, 1769, Map of Northumberland Sheet 3

Green, 1820, Map of Northumberland Sheet 2

Ordnance Survey 1st edition map, 1848 Rolls 3 - 4

Ordnance Survey 2nd edition map, 1899 Sheet XVII

Ordnance Survey 3rd edition map, 1926 Sheet XIII

Admiralty chart, mid 19th century – NRO 722-A-4

Documents

Historic Environment Survey National Trust Northumberland ... · Historic Environment Survey – National Trust Northumberland Coast – Farne Islands Archaeo-Environment Ltd for