hiking rock climbing

The Best of Inyo County’s Four Seasons

Volume: 1 • July 2015

hikingA variety of tailor-made trips await.

Inyo County a global climbing Mecca.

Courtesy of

rock climbing

birdingcyclingATV exploration

2 inside the eastside 2015

inside the eastside 2015 3

contents

12

14

11

Apr • May • Jun

cycling

camping

wildflower spotting

by: Eastside Velo Club

by: Darcy Ellis

by: Kristina Blüm

One of the best ways to see the Eastside is from a bicycle seat

Sleeping under the stars is easy and comfortable in Inyo County

Spring brings blankets of color to Owens and Death valleys

spring - summer11

Inside the Eastside is a July 2015 publication of Horizon California Publications, dba The Inyo Register. All contents, including the

fisheries maps, are the property of The Inyo Register and may not be reproduced in any manner without the expressed written

consent of the publisher.

by: Louis Israel

20

21

23

Oct • Nov • Dec

fall colors scouting

rock climbing

off-highway adventures

by: Jon Klusmire

by: Todd Vogel

by: Mike Johnston

Following the changing foliage is an autumn ritual for some

Welcome to the Mecca of rock climbing

Discover why Inyo County is where the rubber meets the dirt

fall - winter20

22 huntingIntrepid sportsmen on the trail of game and fowl

PublisherRena Mlodecki

EditorDarcy Ellis

CompositionJulie GarrisonDistribution

Stephanie DeBaptisteSales

Terry LangdonVeronica Lee

WritersKristina BlümSeth ConnersDarcy EllisLarry FreilichLouis IsraelMike JohnstonJon KlusmireMike PratherTodd Vogel

“We don’t stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing.”– George Bernard Shaw

From the PublisherIf you can think of doing it, chances are it can be done in the vast playground we call Inyo County. Narrowing the long list of available recreation opportunities down to those highlighted here was a difficult task. In addition to the many activities highlighted here, Inyo County is an ideal locale for horseback riding, world-class photography, lake and river swimming, sledding, hot springs dipping, backpacking, peakbagging, trail running, winter jogging, model rocket and glider flying, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, pine-nut collecting, ultra-running and much more.Many of the recreational activities featured in this, our first annual outdoor recreational magazine for Inyo County, can be enjoyed year round; here, we have guided you to the best times of year to partake in these various adventures. We hope you find both valuable information and inspiration within these pages – just what you need to plan your next visit or get up off the couch and go explore your very big, very beautiful backyard.

From the Publisher

04

06

Jan • Feb • Mar

bird watching

rock hounding

by: Michael Prather

by: Darcy Ellis

Set your sights on the more than 420 bird species found in Inyo

Area’s geology creates a rock-hounder’s paradise

winter - spring04

08 fishing

by: Louis Israel

Drop a line in Inyo’s lakes, streams and rivers 12 months out of the year

10 geocaching

by: Darcy Ellis

High-tech treasure hunts helping visitors discover local wonders

16

15

Jul • Aug • Sep

mountain biking

hiking

by: Seth Conners

by: Darcy Ellis

How fatbiking is fast becoming Eastside’s most popular new sport

Thousands of day trips await in Inyo’s backcountry

summer - fall15

18 backcountrypack trips

by: Kristina Blüm

Explore the High Country with the help of a pack crew

Rena MlodeckiPublisher


birds ofa feather

Bird watchers find kindred spirits, rich diversity in Inyo

by: Michael Prather

Birding (bird watching) is a rapidly growing outdoor activity throughout our country and Inyo County is no exception. The number of different species of birds that have been seen in Inyo County is around 425. This is a high number for numerous reasons and is notable in that Inyo is an inland county away from the coast. Larger than the state of Connecticut and with elevations from -283 feet to 14,495 feet, you would expect rich diversity due to so many different life zones and habitats. And you’d be right! Bristlecone pines to desert scrub, riparian habitat to open water and forest, Inyo has it all.

Birding in the morning when birds are active is best. Grab a pair of binoculars and a field guide and you’re ready to go. Practice identifying birds with your eyes and ears and a whole new world will open before you.

Where to go?1.) Round Valley Loop – Especially good for

raptors in winter. Fifteen species of raptors (birds of prey) have been reported. Seasons: All. Location:

North of Bishop from U.S. Highway 395, turn west onto Pine Creek Road. Turn right in 1.7 miles onto North Round Valley Road to begin the loop route – road turns to dirt. Turn right onto Boundary Road, and right on Sherwin Grade Road/Lower Rock Creek Road to connect with the start-ing point on Pine Creek Road.

2.) COSA (Conservation and Open Space Area) – This unique habitat of riparian and ponds con-tains many species of birds as well as uncommon native plants. It was created by the Bishop Paiute Tribe on their reservation and has 3,000 feet of walking paths. Location: Park at the NW corner of the BLM/Forest Service parking lot off of West Line Street in Bishop (less than a mile west of U.S. Highway 395). Monthly walks for beginners to experts are given by Eastern Sierra Audubon Society (esaudubon.org).

3.) Tinnemaha Reservoir – This large, shallow reservoir has a great variety of water birds and shorebirds depending on the water level. Habitats: Open water, cottonwood, willow, saltbush scrub,

mudflat. Seasons: All. Location: Eight miles south of Big Pine, turn east onto Elna Road. Follow signs for the wildlife viewpoint at the top of the hill.

4.) Mt. Whitney Fish Hatchery – Although no longer in service, this historic fish hatchery, built in 1916, houses a wonderful museum and its grounds contain ponds, Oak Creek and nearby desert scrub. Rare in the Eastern Sierra, native oaks grow here and offer one of the only locations for acorn woodpeckers in the Owens Valley. All seasons are good, but spring and fall for migrating songbirds are high points. Look along Oak Creek around the buildings, ponds and general grounds. Location: Two miles north of Independence on U.S. Highway 395. Follow the signs.

5.) Whitney Portal and Lone Pine Lake trail – Large Jeffrey Pines and white fir

surrounded by huge walls of granite await you. Bird around the campgrounds and pond and hike up the Mt. Whitney trail toward Lone Pine Lake (no permit required). The mix of sunny, brushy areas and forested habitat might give you sooty grouse, fox sparrow and red-breasted sapsucker. Seasons: Spring, summer and fall. Location: Thirteen miles west of Lone Pine on Whitney Portal Road.

6.) Diaz Lake – This Inyo County park is on

Shorebirds take flight from Owens Lake, their pit-stop as they migrate between hemispheres.Photo by Kerry Wilcox

Birders at Owens Lake.Photo by Mike Prather


U.S. Highway 395 three miles south of Lone Pine. The lake is particularly good for birds in the fall, winter and spring. Bird along the trees at the south end and in the campground. Scan the open country habitat for birds like mountain bluebirds and western meadowlark. Look over the open water and edges of the lake for waterfowl and shorebirds.

7.) Owens Lake – Although currently closed due to construction, three wildlife touring routes on and around the lake are scheduled to open in early 2016. Stay tuned for your access to the rich-est wildlife location in Inyo County. Friends of the Inyo and partners puts on the first-ever annual Owens Lake Bird Festival in 2015. Look for the festival’s 2016 information and dates to go up soon (friendsoftheinyo.org).

8.) Cartago Springs Wildlife Area – This site is owned by the California Department of Fish and Wildlife. It has ponds, mudflats and marsh with each type hosting different species of birds. The pond and mudflats are where you’ll see ducks and shorebirds like American avocets, black-necked stilts and cinnamon teal. The marsh has the more secretive birds like rails, but also quite obvious and loud yellow-headed blackbirds. Location: In

Birders on the hunt during migration. Photo by Mike Prather

Cartago on U.S. Highway 395 turn east on Whitney Street and drive two blocks to where the road turns to dirt. Keep going down to park at the metal storage building. Walk east through a cattle gate out between the two ponds and marsh.

9.) China Ranch – China Ranch is a desert oasis of date groves and riparian habitat that is home to amazing wildlife – especially birds. It is

Birding in the morning when birds are active is best. Grab a pair of binoculars and a field guide and you’re ready to go. Practice identifying birds with your eyes and ears and a whole new world will open before you.

located just east of Death Valley National Park southeast of Shoshone (another great birding spot). Trails lead through the rich habitats where you might see phainopeplas (silky flycatchers) or Gambel’s quail. Make sure to visit the gift shop and have a fresh date shake after your morning of birding. Search chinaranch.com for directions and trails. Seasons: spring and fall.

For more information, consult the Eastern Sierra Birding Trail map available at http://www.easternsierrabirdingtrail.org.

(Michael Prather has been actively bird-ing and participating in citizen science since coming to Inyo County in 1972. He is past president of Eastern Sierra Audubon, is on the Board of Friends of the Inyo and lives in Lone Pine.)


A resident holds up a piece of a large fulgarite discovered and dug from the valley floor east of Bishop in January 2014. Fulgarites are rare formations created by lightning strikes and are prized by rock and mineral collectors.

digging in the dirtGeological treasures await those with a keen eye and deft hand

Volcanic activity some 80 to 120 million years ago that sent magma flowing through bed-rock, followed by seismic activity along two verti-cal faults over the last three million years, formed the mountains ranges that frame the Owens Valley we know today.

Eons of geological activity have resulted in

by: Darcy Ellis

these mountains, the Sierra to the west and White and Inyo ranges to the east, yielding some of the most beautiful, unusual and valuable gems and minerals the world has ever seen.

Much of these riches have long since been harvested – evidenced by hillsides pockmarked with mines and abandoned mining equipment –

One of two display cases belonging to the Lone Pine Gem and Mineral Society that showcases miner-als found in Inyo County by club members.

Photo by Darcy Ellis


but from a purely geological standpoint, Inyo County is home to an abundance of wonders and treasures just waiting to be discovered.

“This is the rock-hounder’s paradise,” a spokesperson for the Lone Pine Gem & Mineral Society said, noting Inyo County is home to no less than 150 different kinds of minerals and more than 50 specific areas that are known for harboring different types of collectible rocks, gems and minerals.

Geodes, crystals, obsidian, clear quartz, smoky quartz, rose quartz, dolomite (marble), Hedenbergite, topaz, limestone, borax, copper, gyp-sum, lead, marble, molybdenum, pumice, tungsten, zinc, shale, slate, mica, aquamarine, psalomane – it’s all there if you know where to look and what to look for, according to the LPGMS.

Sleuthing – hunting for certain types of stones, looking for tell-tale clues – is a large part of the appeal of rock-hounding. Being out-doors is another big draw, as is the appeal of being able to collect tangible rewards, which serve as reminders of different trips and adven-tures.

Rock hounds will find themselves anywhere from the valley floor to backcountry peaks. High-clearance vehicles and sturdy walking shoes are recommended for any excursions as you never know where it might lead.

The LPGMS also recommends gloves, a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water – and letting someone know where you’re going, how long you plan to be gone and when they should get wor-ried if you haven’t returned yet.

Tools of the trade include a paleo pick (which resembles a very small pick axe), a squirt bottle so you can see what it is you’ve found, a gad and a trowel.

The best times of year for rock-hounding are when the weather is most mild, such as spring and fall. But some of the desert areas are perfect in winter, the spokesperson said. Summertime trips are best when they’re short or at high elevations.

Specific areas to visit in Inyo County include:• Cerro Gordo, southeast of Lone Pine – A

series of abandoned mines in the Inyo Mountains, Cerro Gordo is home to “many, many different minerals that might not be found anywhere else,” the spokesperson said. One such mineral, a strik-ing turquoise-colored calcite called Smithsonite, is only found in one other area in the world, in New Mexico.

• Coso Range, south of Owens Lake. This is a good area to hunt for different types of jasper as well as small geodes, some of which contain amethyst.

• The Inyos. Home to gold and silver.• Talc City, southeast of Lone Pine on State

Route 190 just before Darwin. As its name implies, Talc City is home to a lot of talc, “some of it very carvable.”

• Alabama Hills, west of Lone Pine. According to the LPGMS, there is gold in them thar hills.

• Crystal Ridge, east of Blackrock, north of Independence. The aptly named area, despite pop-ular opinion, still has plenty to offer. “It’s not dug-out,” the spokesperson said. “I don’t care what anybody says.”

• Deep Springs, east of Big Pine off of State Route 168. Another good spot for hunting for gold, along with various crystal specimens.

• Coyote front range, including Tungsten City Hills, west of Bishop. Look for quartz crystals, epi-dote and garnets – lots of garnets. A word of caution, though: according to the LPGMS, people have been out there with microblasters and leav-ing undetonated chargers, which can easily explode and cause serious injury or death if hit with a rock or hammer.

There are dozens of other areas worth checking out and hundreds of other gems and minerals that can be found. The LPGMS recom-mends the following books for more information: “National Audubon Society: Rocks and Minerals” and “Simon and Schuster’s Guide to Rocks and Minerals.” Other good sources are your closest gem and mineral club and gem and mineral shows, where participants are more than happy to share what they know. The LPGMS can be reached at (760) 876-4319 or www.lpgms.org.


reel in adventureVariety of angling opportunities available for all ability levels, from valley floor to backcountry

The clear mountain waters of the Eastern Sierra are home to a lot of different fish. Water teeming with bass, bluegill, carp, Sacramento perch, even catfish are found from Diaz Lake in Lone Pine to the Owens River near Laws Railroad Museum north of Bishop. These are healthy, hun-gry fish, growing and ready to chomp the bait, an angler’s delight.

Above all on the Eastside, trout is king. Browns, rainbows, cutthroats, even the elusive golden trout all thrive in these waters. More than any fish, trout need pristine water to thrive, and these mountains provide it. Trout in the Eastern Sierra are both wild and hatchery-grown. Lakes are stocked throughout the fishing season, and every day skilled anglers fill their stringers with keepers, while trophy-sized trout worth a full sea-son of bragging rights also get pulled out of the water.

The novice who’s heard about the legendary

fishing in the Eastern Sierra and wants to give it a try can get started easily. Every sporting goods store in the area is loaded with fishing gear and most sell fishing licences as well. Everyone 16 and older needs a licence to fish. California residents and non-residents alike pay just $15 for a day pass or $23 for a two-day pass; $47 buys a non-resident a 10-day pass; a year-long for a resident is the same price.

The fishing season runs from the last Saturday in April to Nov. 15 every year, and on two special days, the first Saturdays in July and September, fishing is open to everyone, even with-out a license.

Diaz Lake, the Owens River and Pleasant Valley Reservoir are open year round, and some say the fishing is even better in winter than in the spring and summer.

Once you’ve dropped into a shop and picked up a license, rod and reel, you’re just about ready

Jim Lamb caught this 6-pounder at North Lake earlier this summer – his first catch using a fly rod.Photo courtesy Pat Rake

by: Louis Israel

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to go. One last thing – don’t forget bait! Picking out bait is fun: PowerBait, mice tails, salmon eggs, jigs and lures are all fair game in these waters. Everyone has a favorite trick and there is no one right way – but grabbing a cup of nightcrawlers before you check out is just about universal.

It’s important to ask at the shops what’s working for the area and for the fish you’re going for. Don’t be shy about it. There’s a saying that 10 percent of anglers catch 90 percent of

the fish. It pays to find someone in that 10 per-cent and get some information. As angler and guide Fred Rowe explains it, if you ask most peo-ple what “a lot” of fishing is, the answers come back 10, 12, 15 days out of the year. Ask an Eastern Sierra angler and the answer comes back, “More than 16 days a month.” These anglers are experienced, they know a lot about these waters, they study what works – and they can help you.

Whether you’re looking for a leisurely after-

noon along the Owens River or want to go in search of seclusion and high-mountain scenery as well as fish, local guides and tackle shops can point you in the right direction for a short drive or day hike.

And there’s more good news. Even if you’ve never caught a fish and wouldn’t know what to do if you did, you’re still going to have a great time.

A good starting point is Bishop Creek Canyon. Check out Lake Sabrina. Parking is simple,

you can drive right up and it’s purple mountains majesty all around as far as the eye can see.

If you’re feeling adventurous, just a few miles away is North Lake. The drive is steep and the shoulder is a sheer drop, but up at the lake, the seclusion and beauty will amaze. Or if you just want to make sure you pull in a trout, Intake II is a super angler-friendly reservoir, perfect for teaching kids to fish, as well as landing the big one.

Many of the lakes in the Bishop Creek Canyon area host trailheads to a myriad of back-country lakes filled with brook trout.

Big Pine offers a slew of backcountry lakes as well, along with more family-friendly fishing spots at Glacier Pond, Baker Creek Campground and Big Pine Creek.

Farther south, Independence hosts warm-water fisheries like Billy Pond east of U.S. Highway 395, and excellent creek fishing at Georges, Shepherd, Symmes and Independence creeks.

Lone Pine, in addition to numerous back-country waters, offers warm-water fishing via the Lower Owens River and creek fishing in Lone Pine and Tuttle creeks.

For maps, advice and various other informa-tion, visit a local sporting goods store or the Bishop Area Chamber of Commerce at 690 N. Main St. or the Lone Pine Chamber of Commerce at 120 S. Main St.

An angler gets his feet wet on a hot summer’s day at Lake Sabrina.Photo by Darcy Ellis

It’s important to ask at the shops what’s working for the area and for the fish you’re going for. Don’t be shy about it. There’s a saying that 10 percent of anglers catch 90 percent of the fish. It pays to find someone in that 10 percent and get some information. These anglers know a lot about these waters, they study what works – and they can help you.


hi-tech hide-and-seekInyo County a popular geocaching destination as practitioners discover new landscapes, famous attractions and local history

With its many valleys and hills, canyons and crevices, nooks, crannies and thousands of square miles of desert floor, Inyo County is an ideal location for geocaching.

Played around the world by adventure-seekers equipped with GPS devices and apps for their mobile phones, geocaching is essen-tially a high-tech treasure hunt that can be played anywhere at anytime.

The main resource for the pastime, Geocaching.com, boasts more than 10 million registered users – more than 800,000 in the U.S. alone – tracking more than 2.5 million geocaches in 180-plus countries.

The concept is simple: a geocacher hides a geocache, lists it on Geocaching.com and challenges other geocachers to find it.

More than 800 of these geocaches are located in Inyo County, hidden packages and other “treasures” waiting to be uncovered by clever adventurers.

One of the main benefits of geocaching is exposure to places and attractions that ’cach-ers otherwise would never have had a chance to see or appreciate – such as Inyo County itself, tucked away at the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada between Los Angeles and Reno.

Geocaching.com member HazMatter is one of many who has led treasure hunters to

Visitors from all over the world in search of the more than 800 geocaches hidden throughout Inyo County are discovering the area’s many attractions, such as the historic Mt. Whitney Fish Hatchery, in the process.

Register file photo

by: Darcy EllisInyo.

He wrote on the site: “Over the past five years now I have traveled throughout the state with a new perspective. Not like I used to … before I would fly through little burgs and towns without taking a second look. I have always traveled for work but never took the time to ‘see’ where I was going. I would hit a town, do my work and go back to the hotel and sit in my room clicking the clicker until the wee hours of the morning.

“Now, every new town I pass through is an awakening. I thrive on the new treasures I see … monuments I have whizzed by a hundred times in my life are now new nug-gets of knowledge, vista points I passed with-out a blink are postcard images burned in my mind, and side streets of towns are secret treasures that only non-tourists find. Geocaching has made me stop and smell the roses.”

For anyone interested in getting involved locally, Laws Railroad Museum hosts a geo-caching festival every May to introduce resi-dents to the popular pastime.

“Geocaching is a great way to bring friends and family together while having fun outdoors and learning about our local histo-ry,” organizer Susan Cullen said.

Lone Pine • Bishop • Mammoth Lakes

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For the kids• Fly a kite at Millpond park, west of Bishop. This park also has an archery range, and a playground.• Rock-hounding: Looking for different kinds of rocks can be a great way for kids to learn geology.

There is one type of rock that can float in water. Can you find it? (Hint: Try looking in the volcanic table-lands north of Bishop.)

• Look for butterflies and wildflowers in mountain meadows.– KB

Inyo County is a paradise for wildflowers. Inyo National Forest botanist Michele Slaton said that this region is perfect for wildflowers because the Eastern Sierra is situated at a natural inter-section between the Great Basin, the Mojave Desert and the Sierra Nevada mountains. “This region’s uniqueness makes for a widely diverse variety of wildflowers,” she said. The Sierra is also home to many rare species of wildflowers, some of which are on the endangered species list.

Wildflower abundance is entirely dependent upon the weather. During wet years, wildflowers can be found covering acres of land, while in dry years, they can be much more challenging to find. Either way, searching for wildflowers requires a lit-tle effort, but it is well worth it.

“Desert Gold” is often the first wildflower species to appear after winter loosens its grasp on Inyo County. These brilliant yellow flowers can be found in Death Valley National Park during February and March.

Death Valley National Park is often considered a desert landscape, but in early springtime, the valley comes to life. The wildflowers in Death Valley are sometimes called “Belly Flowers” because in order to see them, one must lie on his or her belly. These tiny blossoms blanket the valley floor during late February and Mach.

Some of the first wildflowers to appear in the Owens Valley are the Desert Dandelions. These bushy yellow flowers cover the entire valley at times, and can be easily found throughout the valley region. They are especially prevalent in the Alabama Hills west of Lone Pine.

The Blue Flag Wild Iris are some of the most famous Eastern Sierra wildflowers. During wet years, they can be found in meadows throughout the Owens Valley. They can appear as early as

by: Kristina Blüm

May, but as the weather warms up, they can be found at progressively higher elevations as well.

During the late spring and early summer, columbines and shooting stars can be found throughout the mountains. For lovers of pink flow-ers, Alkali Shooting Stars can be found in the vol-canic tablelands north of Bishop. The Alkali Shooting Star is a bright magenta flower that grows in alkali-rich meadows.

Some wildflowers have unique names, making them wonderful additions to nature journals or photograph collections. For instance, Monks Foot is a purple wildflower that looks like a hood or cape draped over someone’s head. Indian Paintbrush is a vibrant orange red flower the looks similar to a brush dipped in paint. Another favorite is the Tiger Lily, a bright orange lily with black spots.

Many wildflowers also have a long history of Native American usage, or special symbolism. The Yerba Mansa is a white flower that can be found throughout the Owens Valley. It was once used by the Native American people for medicinal purposes.

No wildflower hunt in the Eastern Sierra would be complete without seeing the wild roses. The Eastern Sierra is home to a few different types of wild roses, particularly the Woods’ Rose, a five-petaled pink rose. These flowers are easy to spot and identify, and they have a distinctly rose scent. They can often be found in moist areas, especially along streams.

The list of wildflower species in the Eastern Sierra is extensive, but there are field guides and pamphlets available to help make the search and identification process easier. One popular resource is “Wildflower Hot Spots of the Eastern Sierra.” Copies are available at the Bishop Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center or online.

The bright, fuschia-colored Lone Pine beardtongue, found only in Inyo County. Photo by Ray Gills

untamed beauty Grab a camera and

follow the blooms


road warriors

Touring Inyo County on two wheels

by: Eastside Velo Club

Cycling is one of the very best ways to expe-rience and explore Inyo County.

Hundreds of miles of quiet and scenic roads offer residents and visitors some of the most extraordinary and varied road bicycling experiences in the nation. Here, cycling takes all forms; from the all-out Everest Challenge – the hardest two-day racing event in the country, climbing 27,000 feet up our steep mountain canyons, and covering more than 200 miles; to peddling the modest roll-ing terrain on Laws loop in the Bishop area cov-ering 11 miles, twice across the Owens River, with a museum stop in the middle – there’s an expe-rience for everyone.

Cycling offers an immersive experience. You

experience your surroundings in a whole new way. The rush of wind in your face, or the pleasure of wind at your back. You forget you’re on a machine. You’re quiet, which lets you see and hear wildlife that you miss in a car. Scenery is con-stantly changing all around you. You feel the tem-perature fall as you near a stream, and rise as you enter the desert from the trees. You’re travel-ling fast enough to feel like you’re flying, but slow enough to appreciate roadside wildflowers.

If the unique experience and scenery can’t get you on a bike, then consider the health bene-fits: increased stamina, strength building, muscle toning, stress reduction, cardio-vascular health, improved coordination, bicycling can quickly tone

Members of the Eastside Velo Club socialize, get some exercise and take in the scenery on a ride through the Round Valley area.Photo courtesy Eastside Velo Club

Scenery is constantly changing all around you. You feel the temperature fall as you near a stream, and rise as you enter the desert from the trees. You’re travelling fast enough to feel like you’re flying, but slow enough to appreciate roadside wildflowers.


your body. If that’s not enough, consider that on flat ground a leisurely 10 miles per hour pace burns 400 to 500 calories per hour; speed it up to a moderate 14 to 18 mph and you’re shed-ding 700 to 800 calories an hour; cruising along at 18 to 22 mph, which is typical for the span-dex clad, require 800 to 1,000 calories every hour. It’s not uncommon to find riders who ride just to be able to eat seconds!

Once you’re on your bike, why ride alone? Bicycling is be a great way to meet people and make friends. It’s not uncommon for 50 to 100 riders, of various ages and levels of fitness, to par-ticipate in an event organized by the local bike club, Eastside Velo. Most of there events end in a social get together, usually centered around replen-ishing calories (remember, you’re now entitled to seconds)!

The Eastside Velo hosts weekend rides out of Bishop in the winter, spring, and fall, and summer and fall rides out of the Mammoth Lakes area. These hour- to four- or even six-hour rides are for cyclists of all levels and abilities. The competi-tive guys and gals in the “A” group ride in tight packs and can easily cover 40 to 50 miles in two hours (surprisingly a lot of cyclists in this group are older than 50)! The “B” group riders also ride in a tight line, and cover 30 to 40 mile, but at a pace that’s slow enough to socialize. The “C” group riders are all about being social, some are working their way to the “A” and “B” groups, others are just out for a social ride. The “C” group typically ride 25 to 35 miles of road in two hours. You can find more information about the Eastside Velo and their offerings at www.eastsidevelo.org.

Finally, what’s with the funny clothes? Riding in jeans and a plaid works just fine for a short rides, but after a while moving that bulk of the fabric takes its toll. Wind collects in the folds of the material, and each lift of the pedal requires moving a pound of fabric. Cycling clothes over-come this; wind slips by without notice, and the fabric weights next to nothing. The specialized fab-rics used in cycling clothes keep you comfortable in any weather. Best of all, cycling shorts have built in cushioning where it’s needed most.

Do consider the weather. When you’re riding in a place as big and wide open as the Eastern Sierra you will want to consider that temperatures can change 50 degrees day to night; where a dead still morning gives way to tree-bending winds after noon. Local riders watch the weather and plan rides accordingly. In spring and fall you’ll find a prevailing pattern of northerly winds in the morning, and southerlies in the afternoon. Taking advantage of these patterns can mean a long ride with little effort. Aside from making sure you have air in your tires, checking the weather forecast is a good idea.

So where should you ride? You’ll find lonely country roads cutting through verdant fields north of Bishop known as “Round Valley Loop.” On most weekends you’ll find more cyclists than cars on the popular Round Valley loop. You can expand the loop to climb up Pine Creek Canyon to the west or north to Paradise on “Old 395” or Lower Rock Creek Road.

Warm Springs Loop, located out Line Street to the east, gets you out into the wide-open mid-dle of the Owens Valley, with few hills. You can practice your climbing and descending skills on

the many climbs into the Sierra to the west or the White Mountains to the east along 395, start-ing south in Lone Pine to Horseshoe Meadows and Whitney Portal. The Lubken Canyon Loop in the Alabama Hills just to the west of Lone Pine, at the base of Mt. Whitney, is a popular, but hilly, loop.

From Independence you can ride up to Onion Valley, from Big Pine up to Glacier Lodge in the

Cycling safety

basics:• Wear a helmet!• Day or night, a

flashing red taillight makes you visible

• Always ride in the direction of traffic

• Obey traffic regulations

• Ride to the right and watch for cars

• Nice and tidy.• Bring plenty of

water, calories, a flat repair kit, pump, extra tubes and a cell phone and let someone know where you are going

A participant of the Eastside Velo’s annual Pamper Pedal costume ride gives the camera a kiss en route to Bishop from Mammoth.

Photo courtesy Eastside Velo Club

Old 395 is a popular cycling route that originates in Mono County but terminates at one of the most popular cycling spots in Inyo County: Round Valley.Photo courtesy Eastside Velo Club

Sierra or Waucoba or Schulman Grove in the Whites, and from Bishop up to South Lake or Lake Sabrina.

Desert roads in Death Valley and Panamint Valley offer a unique cycling experiences. Inquire at the local bike shop, Arrowhead Cycles in Bishop, ask a passing cyclist or, better yet, join an orga-nized Eastside Velo ride and we will show you the ropes.


Inyo County offers camping to suit all souls

Everyone’s got their own idea of “roughing it,” a phrase that seems to come to mind in relation to camping.

For some, it’s rough just being out of wi-fi range, while for others accommodations don’t start to feel primitive until about Day 5 without a hot

by: Darcy Ellis

sleeping under the stars

shower.Whatever your preference – whether it’s the

comfort of an RV park and motorhome equipped with satellite TV or nothing more than a bedroll and subzero sleeping bag at 11,000 feet – Inyo County offers a myriad of camping experiences to

suit most tastes.Through the Inyo National Forest, Bureau of

Land Management and County of Inyo, the travel-ing public has its pick of almost 60 different campgrounds – a mix of group, walk-in and equestrian sites in the high country, and lower-ele-vation family-friendly sites near popular drive-to lakes and creeks. The INF oversees 42 different campgrounds from Lone Pine to Rock Creek Lake (which, although accessed via Mono County actually lies in Inyo County). The county itself runs seven campgrounds, at Diaz Lake, Independence Creek, Pleasant Valley, Baker Creek, Tinnemaha Creek and Taboose Creek. The BLM is in charge of camp-grounds at Tuttle Creek, Goodale Creek, Pleasant Valley Pit and Horton Creek. Several local camp-grounds, like Tuttle Creek, are open year round, but in general those operated by the federal gov-

A tent can be all the accommodations some visitors need as they enjoy overnight excursions into the Sierra backcountry.Register file photo by Kenna Schoenherr

ernment open with the spring thaw and close before the first winter storm in the fall. Amenities range from dump stations, sewer, flush toilets and bear-proof stor-age lockers to electricity hook-ups, vault toilets and running water.

Private campgrounds and RV parks, such as The Highlands, Brown’s Town Campground and Millpond Recreation Area in Bishop, Glacier View Campground in Big Pine and Boulder Creek RV Park in Lone Pine, are open 12 months out of the year and offer even more amenities – sometimes even general stores.

A comprehensive list of individual local camp-grounds, fees and other related information can be found in the 2015 Eastern Sierra Fishing Guide. More information is also available at: www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo/recreation/campgrounds.shtml; www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/fo/bishop/camping/index.html; www.inyocountyca-mping.com.


Discover Inyo County’s backcountry and be back in time for dinner

Inyo County might as well be known as the world capitol of day hikes. There are thousands of destinations that hikers can reach in time to kick back, relax, do some exploring, take photos, drop a line in a backcountry lake and still get back to the trailhead by dark.

Generally, anything 10 miles or less round-trip is considered in the day-hike range. Trips within this zone are plentiful, with some accessed literally from residents’ backyards.

Destinations include historical points of inter-est, such as abandoned mines, alpine meadows in full wildflower bloom, high-country lakes, remote cabins, clandestine waterfalls, various mountain passes and distant habitats of certain flora and fauna. Many of the trails pass through Inyo National Forest land, with the longer hikes tak-ing participants into local wilderness areas.

While winter hiking is a popular pastime, particularly in the lower foothills such as the Alabama Hills in Lone Pine, and Tungsten, Buttermilk and Chalk Bluff areas of Bishop, most hikes are reserved for late spring and early summer when the backcountry opens with the melting of the snowpack. The past few seasons have seen access to the high country granted earlier and earlier due to successive dry winters, a mixed blessing for those who find their peace and adventure in the mountains.

Summer is also an ideal time to hit the higher elevations because they’re sometimes as much as 20 degrees cooler than the valley floor – providing respite and a way to exercise out of the oppressive heat.

Of course, cooling off is a secondary reason to seek out the High Sierra backcountry.

“It is hard to discuss Inyo National Forest

by: Darcy Ellis

without loading up your backpack for a trek into the High Sierra,” the website Hikerspeak.com states. “This incredible region of California features staggering summits, epic glaciers, crystal clear lakes and pristine pine forests. It is truly a hiker’s delight.”

According to Hikerspeak.com, the Inyo National Forest alone offers 3,000 square miles of landscape to explore, including the John Muir and Golden Trout Wilderness areas. Several of these areas border Sequoia-Kings National Park on the west side of the Sierra.

From the south end of the county to the north, the Forest Service identifies more than 40 different hiking trails/areas to explore, from the Whitney Trail and Cottonwood Lakes Trail in Lone Pine; to Baxter Pass Trail, Shepherd Pass Trail and Kearsarge Pass Trail in Independence; to the Big Pine Creek north and south fork trails and Taboose Pass Trail in Big Pine; to the numerous trails out of Lake Sabrina, North Lake, South Lake and Pine Creek in the Bishop area.

A detailed list of trails, along with directions and other information, can be found at http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/recreation/hiking/?cid=fsbdev3_003828. The Eastern Sierra Interpretive Association can also help at www.esiaonline.com.

Out in Death Valley, where hiking is recom-mended October through April, there are just as many if not more day hike possibilities to desti-nations such as Desolation and Mosaic canyons, Badwater Salt Flats, Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, Dante’s Ridge and Little Hebe Crater. For more information, visit http://www.nps.gov/deva/plany-ourvisit/hiking.htm.

Wherever you go, remember to practice

Leave No Trace principles, taking only photos and leaving only footprints. And unless you’re

marking a poorly outlined trail, quit stacking rocks.

A hiker kicks back on a rock along the shore of Lower Lamarck Lake during a day hike above North Lake.

day-tripper’s paradise


by: Kristina Blüm

Baxter Black once said that cowboys and cow-girls are not a dying breed; you just can’t see them from the road.

There is a certain charm about the western way of life. There is no substitute for the smell of leather, the thrill of mounting a horse or mule, and the feel-ing of raw adventure as nature unfolds around each turn of the trail. This western charm still exists today, but like Baxter Black said, you will have to leave the highway to find it. Anyone can enjoy mountains by horse or mule, and packers hold the key.

All summer long, strings of mules and horses can be seen throughout the mountains, delivering supplies to hikers in the backcountry, leading trail rides or taking visitors into the wilderness for the trip of a lifetime.

A pack station or pack outfit is a business that provides visitors with horses or mules, enabling ease

Local packers from McGee Creek Pack Station ride among wildflowers blooming in the backcountry.

Photo courtesy McGee Creek Pack Station

Packing also makes the backcountry accessible for those who are unable to hike long distances. Packers can work with people of all ages and abilities, regardless of a rider’s experience level.

A group led by packers from Rock Creek Pack Station winds its way up a steep grade in the High Sierra.Register file photo courtesy Rock Creek Creek Pack Station

ticket to rideTake the trip of a lifetime with one of the Eastern Sierra’s many pack stations


For the kids• Many area pack stations have “Tiny Tot” lead-arounds for young kids who want to ride a

horse. The wranglers help children experience what it is like to ride a horse or mule by leading

them around a corral. For older kids, packers offer half-hour to hour long trail rides.

• Rent a boat on an area lake, and explore the farthest shores. Be sure to wear those life-

jackets!

• Escape the heat by staying in a cabin or camping in one of the canyons. Try re-inventing

the s’more with your favorite type of chocolate candy. – KB

A pack train with Bishop Pack Outfitters heads deep into the Sierra backcountry, where alpine lakes glisten in various shades of blue and turquoise.

Register file photo courtesy Bishop Pack Outfitters

of access to the backcountry. Nearly every major trail-head in the Eastern Sierra has its own pack station, complete with experienced wranglers and trail animals.

Packing is a long-standing tradition in the Eastern Sierra. Early miners would use strings of mules to carry equipment to remote mining claims. Even the first Sierra Club members were known to use pack animals to carry supplies into the backcoun-try. For decades, visitors on horseback have been a familiar sight throughout the Sierra.

Today, packers are as much a part of the moun-tain lifestyle as ever. There are 16 pack stations in the Eastern Sierra, many of which are located in the canyons of the Sierra, in the western part of Inyo County. Each pack station offers access to unique landscapes and various adventures for everyone to enjoy. Packers can create a unique experience, custom-ized to the needs of the adventurer.

“This is God’s country and there is no better way to see it than from the back of a horse or a mule,” said TessAnne Moran, a wrangler who leads trail rides to the Cardinal Mine from Cardinal Village in Bishop Creek Canyon.“You just have to step back in time a little.”

Packing also makes the backcountry accessible for those who are unable to hike long distances. Packers can work with people of all ages and abilities, regardless of the rider’s experience level. From the back of a horse or mule, even the handicapped can experience the wilderness.

Anglers can go for the gold, the California golden trout that is, by taking a pack trip into the back-country to fish in alpine lakes. Packers can customize a backcountry fishing trip to match the needs of any angler, including guide service from professional local fishermen and guide services.

One vital service offered by packers is their food drop service for backcountry hikers. The packers will carry food and supplies into the backcountry for hik-ers who are hiking the longer trails such as the Pacific Crest and John Muir trails. Packers can also take adventurers into the backcountry to stay for a few days. For those who do not wish to ride a horse to their destination, packers can carry camping gear into the backcountry ahead of the hikers, and set up camp. Packers also take great pride in their back-

country cooking, providing fine dining in the wilder-ness.

One of the most popular services offered by packers are their trail rides. Each pack station has a unique offering of one-hour, two-hour, half- or full-day trail rides, all offered at reasonable prices. Due to the uniqueness of the landscape in each canyon, every pack station has something different and special to offer.

For the tiny tots, many of the pack stations offer “lead-arounds,” where professional wranglers lead young cowboys and cowgirls around a corral. This opportunity is perfect for young children who simply want to ride a horse, and can make for a memorable Wild West experience.

From the foot of Mount Whitney to the wind-swept summits of Bishop Pass, packers and their mule trains remain an authentic example of the western way of life in the Sierra. And as long as the West stays wild, they will continue to provide a one-of-a- kind adventure to anyone who is willing to saddle up and head for the mountains.

“We are so blessed to live here and share this place with others. These mountains are as inspiring as they are beautiful. It is a privilege to be here, and it is a privilege to share it. Looking at the mountains, looking at the scenery, my heart says so much. How can that be put into words,” Moran said.

For more information, visit the Bishop Area Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau at 690 N Main St. or www.bishopvisitor.com, or contact the Eastern Sierra Packers Association at www.eastern-sierrapackers.com.

Packing is a long-standing tradition in the Eastern Sierra. Early miners would use strings of mules to carry equipment to remote mining claims. Even the first Sierra Club members were known to use pack animals to carry supplies into the back-country.


the next big thingFatbiking replacing mountain bikingas preferred off-road ride in Inyo County

by: Seth ConnersWhen it comes to off-road biking in Inyo

County it’s all about pulling off the highway and hittin’ some dirt road that leads to a place where few have ventured. With literally thousands of miles of single and dual track off-roading to choose from, one could throw a dart at a map on the wall and start planning a day trip.

Extreme topography in the high country clashes with the serene relief of the valleys that slice through them. These contrasts that define the

Fatking enthusiast Julie Faber is among a growing number of bicyclists who find fatbikes better matched to Inyo County’s terrain than mountain bikes.Photo by Seth Conners

county’s geology make for a vast variety of terrain options. At valley’s floor, dirt trails along the Owens River hover gently in elevation at around 4,000 feet, offering rides that appeal to bikers of all ages and skill levels. With trails in the sur-rounding mountains reaching elevations above 12,000 feet, riders will find grueling climbs and hair-raising descents often requiring incredible skill.

From the town of Bishop at the far north of Inyo County to Lone Pine in the south, local

mountain bikers have been tearing it up here for years. Circumstances unique to Inyo County have left much of the territory available for public wan-dering and largely undiscovered by the general mountain biking community.

Although traditional mountain bikes still rule the scene in Inyo County, a new sun is rising over the valley with the growing popularity of fatbiking. Considered by many of the local cycling faction to be far superior at handling the area’s loose terrain

and snow, fatbikes offer more stability, and better maneuverability with less effort, than their skinny cousins. “Fatbiking has turned grinding through gravel into floating through silk,” local fatbike enthusiast and EastsideWide Fatbike Rentals owner/operator Jennifer Girard said. It seems to be the general belief (aside from extreme cycling purists) that any trail or dirt road consisting of Inyo terra can be enjoyed on more levels when you’re on a “fatty.” And now with acceptance of these hefty


mounts on the rise, it’s only a matter time before Inyo county becomes a legitimate point of interest for the sport.

Fatbiking has loomed in the shadow of tra-ditional mountain biking since the 1970s. Since making noise in Alaska in the early ’90s, fatbiking has mostly enjoyed novelty status until the first mass-produced fatbikes started showing up in 2005.

The real boost that legitimized these fat daddies came in 2013 when Manuel Beastley entered the famed Sea Otter Classic with his $200 Signature Model Mongoose fatbike, fresh off the Walmart floor. The mountain biking world watched in absolute awe as Beastley atop the only fatbike in the competition dominated every event.

While operating off the grid since its exis-tence, mountain biking has mostly taken a back seat to the other outdoor activities that the area is legendary for. This offers tremendous appeal for pioneer types who embrace the challenges of carving a new niche. And with the realization that fatbikes offer a better symbiosis with the Inyo surface than previously understood, fatbikers are being seen here with more frequency every day. With easy access from local towns and the camp-sites that abundantly surround them, Inyo County could be a true Mecca for remote trail riders.

As Inyo guide services (also sensing a shift in

trend) start to expand their emphasis to meet the growing needs of the off-road cycling commu-nity, it becomes more apparent that modern tech-nology will play a key role in the development of Inyo’s cycling scene. Local guide and fatbiking ambassador Gigi deJong has been tirelessly plot-ting the county’s trails using GPS points to map the route. Using just a smartphone equipped with any GPS app, you’ll be able to research your ride by simply typing in the coordinates posted along any given trail. “Some places just don’t have names,” deJong said. “This really takes a lot of the guess out of the navigation.” It is very impor-tant to stay on existing trails, and this equipment really helps with that.

Some of the most reliable information resources available throughout the county are the incredible staff that man the local visitors centers. Check out: the Bishop Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau, 690 N. Main St., (760) 873-8405; the Eastern Sierra InterAgency Visitor Center, State Route 190 and U.S. Highway 395 in Lone Pine, (760) 873-8405; and Furnace Creek Visitors Center, Death Valley, (760) 786-3200 or (760) 786-3244.

For trail, shuttle, event and guide information, visit www.fatbikemammoth.com; contact Gigi deJong at (760) 299-4033 or [email protected], Sierra Mountain Center at 200 S. Main St., Bishop or (760) 873-8526; or email [email protected].

Although traditional mountain bikes still rule the scene in Inyo County, a new sun is rising over the valley with the growing popularity of fatbiking. Considered by many of the local cycling faction to be far superior at handling the area’s loose terrain and snow, fatbikes offer more stability, and better maneuverability with less effort, than their skinny cousins.


by: Todd Vogel

crag countryInyo County earns its place as global climbing Mecca

The Eastern Sierra has taken its rightful place among the world’s favorite climbing destinations – Chamonix, France; Yosemite, Calif.; The Tetons in Wyoming; even Patagonia in South America. So, why the draw? What’s so great about the Eastern Sierra for climbing?

The Eastern Sierra has long been known as a climbing Mecca – the history of climbing here probably goes back to prehistoric times. Did ancient people of the region climb for pleasure? Certainly they reached summits for the view, to scout ahead and surveil. Petroglyph evidence that takes climbing skills to reach indicates that native people, if not climbing for pleasure, at least were willing and able to climb to access rock that made for good petroglyph making. Modern climbers came with the arrival of Europeans to the Valley, first for the purpose of surveying the area, later to be the first known person to climb the highest summits, later yet to climb the hardest and most direct routes to the tops. Eventually it became convenient if not wise to practice for the hard parts on shorter, climbs that were closer to town. Short “practice” climbs and bouldering evolved and now both have diverged to become ends of their own.

To non-climbers, climbing probably seems like a strange thing to do. Why climb a rock? Certainly there are as many motivations as there are kinds types of climbing but getting that view, succeeding at a chal-lenge, camaraderie, being fit, and getting out of town are all part of the draw. Like yoga, it’s fun to move your body in ways that stretch and challenge. Climbing is as much a puzzle as it is a wrestling match: the brain has to plan tactics, put together a sequence of moves and keep track of the big picture. News flash: very few climbers think of themselves daredevils or risk takers; climbing is actually very safe. I wholeheartedly believe that a day at the crags is far safer than a day driving in city traffic. When teaching climbing I often joke about how absurdly simple the climber’s safety sys-tem is: in essence: if you fall I catch you with the rope. I fall, you do the same for me. Protection that anchors the rope is placed and removed by the climbing team. Of course there are details, but that’s the essence. Bouldering is the highly gymnastic version of climbing that takes place on shorter climbs, without a rope, where the protection system is based on how high you climb – generally not high enough to sustain serious injury should a fall occur. Pads on the ground and a crew of “spotters” complete the bouldering safety system. Add a rope, lengthen the climbs a bit and pre-place the protection and that’s called sport climbing.

The Eastern Sierra’s list of classic climbing areas is

as lengthy as it is diverse. The Happy Boulders, The Sad Boulders; The Druid Stones, Heaven; The Buttermilk and Grandma and Grandpa Boulder. The Palisades and Temple Crag. Charlotte Dome. The Ritter Range. The Evolution Traverse, Pine Creek Canyon … Climbers are as obsessive about naming formations and routes as the most dedicated baseball fan is about following stats, and it’s all kept track of in guidebooks. The stack of current and out of print climbing guides to the Eastern Sierra would reach floor to ceiling. On any given day in spring the license plates at the Happy Boulders tell a story: Colorado, New York, New Jersey, North Carolina, Alaska … and the obvious assortment of rental cars out of Vegas. Some days five or six languages can be heard. From multi day mega-long climbs to intensely difficult climbs no longer than 25’ in length and everything in between, when it comes to climbing, the Eastern Sierra has it all. Back to the question: what makes Eastern Sierra climbing so great?

The shear abundance of climbing is part of the answer, and with abundance comes diversity. With more than named mountain ranges within its boundaries, including the Sierra Nevada, geology has been generous to Inyo County. Up high in the Sierra climbers are attracted to what many have called “flawless” alpine granite. In places it has been smoothed by ancient gla-ciers, other times, exposed to the elements, fantastic knobs have weathered out; either scenario leaves a spec-tacular mountain experience with grand views, good protection, fun moves and generally easy climbing. Lower down, near the valleys, volcanic activity has left a rock called Welded Tuff – for climbers this makes for a play-ground of relatively short, steep rock full of pockets and edges, a regular wonderland of rock. To boulderers just a mention of the Happy Boulders, or the Buttermilk Country, both near Bishop, can make their hands sweat in anticipation.

Because of the elevation variation in the Eastern Sierra there’s climbing pretty much year round, except perhaps for brief mid-winter cold snaps. So, for climbers there’s something for everyone in the Eastern Sierra. Feel more like a hike with a bit of climbing added in? Check out the Druid Stones. Too hot to go there? How ‘bout Heaven, up towards Mt. Humphreys. Want some-thing a bit longer? The sport climbing in the Owens River Gorge is legendary. Longer yet, and perhaps cool-er? Try out the abundant climbs of Pine Creek Canyon. Maybe some low-key top roping up in the cool air of Rock Creek Canyon? Check out Iris Slab. Ready for some backcountry climbing? Hundreds of “Sierra Classics” await your touch.

Jason Chinchen pulls the dyno on “Molly” at the Sad Boulders outside of Bishop.Register file photo by Tony Symanovich


Most visitors who drive up and down U.S. Highway 395 through Inyo County are impressed by the striking landscapes on both sides of the road. On one side is the dramatic upshot of granite peaks that make up the Sierra. Opposite the Sierra, subtle colors mix on the more round-ed slopes of the White and Inyo mountains.

What many people aren’t able to see from the valley floor are impressive displays of fall col-ors when crisp autumn temperatures turn the leaves of cottonwood trees, aspens, willows and oaks into a vibrant explosion of shades of yel-lows, reds and green. That’s because those colorful sights hide a bit, in mountain valleys and lakes, from the casual observer.

That is one of several differences between the Eastern Sierra’s fall color season and the more well-known fall color hotspots, such as New England or the Rocky Mountains. Those regions’ entire mountain landscapes turns into sweeping, colorful sights. The wooded hills and mountains are covered completely with color.

In the Eastern Sierra, on the other hand, the leafy trees do not typically cover entire moun-tains. Instead, there are little stands and groves of trees at a certain range of elevation off the valley floor. Those higher-altitude trees turn colors first. Then, later in the fall, the big cottonwoods and other trees on the valley floor take their turn as colorful characters. That means Inyo County’s fall color season has a nice long run.

Another unique aspect to the fall color sea-son is that for the most part the striking scen-ery can be viewed by simply driving up well-known local roads that reach into the high coun-try. The key is to time the drive to match the colors.

For years, locals and late-season anglers and hikers pretty much had the colorful display of fall foliage to themselves.

But that little secret turned out to be hard to keep.

Transplants to California from more forested states who were tired of beach scenes and huge, green pine trees, tried to duplicate the leaf-peep-ing scenes they left behind. The Sierra, with its four seasons and mountains, was an obvious place to look.

Once the word was out, all it took to trans-form a local tradition into a statewide “must see” was a little promotion, a few years’ worth of Travel Section media coverage, and especially the proliferation of web pages, blogs and social media that made it easy for everyone to post dozens of stunning color photos. (The leading web page for fall color updates in the Sierra and through-out the state is still the first website devoted solely to fall color spotting, reporting and enjoy-ing: www.californiafallcolors.com, with its catchy slogan, “Dude, autumn happens here, too.”)

Now, fall color is a “season” that occurs right after summer. Once the cooler weather arrives, so do eager leaf-peepers. Coming in cars or trucks, singly or in groups, people start cruising the roads leading into the Sierra, from Cottonwood Pass to Bishop Creek. Some people are content to simply drive up and down the road and view the colorful sights from the comfort of their vehicle. Others get out and work their camera to capture the autumn scene before them.

The key to a successful search (besides loca-tions, which are outlined below) is to go slow and really look. While there are some places where large swaths of trees cover a large area, the smaller, more intimate stands of trees are just as compelling. A single stand of aspens in the middle of field of granite offers quite a sight.

As does a stretch of willows alongside a stream. A cluster of color set off by a background of green pines offers an interesting contrast. The soft reflection of color in a small pond or lake can be a unique photo.

Another unique aspect to the fall color sea-son is that it’s usually fairly easy to see nature at work. Trees at higher elevations turn color first, then as time passes the wave of color liter-ally moves down mountainsides and though val-leys. So it’s not uncommon to start out seeing summer-green trees, then trees that have partly turned and finally get to trees in full color. It’s almost like you’re hot on the trail of fall color.

WHERE TO GO In general, you can find fall colors in about

any Eastern Sierra high country location in Inyo County. Well-known roads that lead to the back-country typically move through the band of aspens, cottonwoods and willows that make up the best fall color viewing.

That means routes such as Cottonwood Pass and the Whitney Portal Road in the Lone Pine area will deliver you to fall color viewing. Likewise with Onion Valley Road out of Independence, and Glacier Lodge Road out of Big Pine.

Later in the fall, just the drive on U.S. Highway 395 will yield colorful sights as the

trees along the valley floor put on a colorful show. Keep an eye out for tall, sprawling cotton-woods that stand by themselves in fields. When these individual trees turn, they are quite a sight. Trees in each town also turn later in the season, so go ahead and take a few minutes to drive through town toward the Sierra. In most cases, you will be able to see big, mature trees turning color with big Sierra peaks as a backdrop.

The Bishop Creek Drainage offers numerous fall color sights in a fairly compact area.

In early fall, North Lake is a landmark sight, and well worth the drive, since the road itself is flanked by tall, colorful aspens. The appropriately named community of Aspendell is a color oasis, as is the Cardinal Village, which you can see from the road above the tree-packed little canyon. Lake Sabrina has a couple of spots that are favorites, from the creek to the slow-moving water and bridge just below the lake. The lake itself reflects Sierra peaks and blasts of color leading to those peaks.

The road to South Lake offers one of the longer, uninterrupted stretches of colorful trees decorating hillsides, ponds, an outstanding water-fall and the meandering creek before reaching the lake itself.

Check www.californiafallcolors.com for the lat-est reports and fall color information.

by: Jon Klusmire

The road to Lake Sabrina proved especially photo-worthy for this autumn visitor.Photo by Jon Klusmire

autumn tapestryTracking the fall colors an annual tradition for photographers


Besides natural scenic beauty, a great variety of animals, friendly people and clean air, hunters have another answer for what makes the Eastern Sierra a great hunting destination: access.

Access in the Eastern Sierra means several things. First and foremost, not to pick on other hunting des-tinations, but so many places even right here in the great state of California have much of their best land locked up and privately owned. Hunting in these plac-es is largely consumed by the time draining process of finding a good, legal spot with game for the tak-ing. But what’s unique about the large majority of the land in the Eastern Sierra is, the land is held by the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power, Bureau of Land Management or the Forest Service. Which means as long as hunters have their licenses in order, most of the land is free to hunt. “There’s this ranch, and that ranch, and that private spot (are off-limits), and other than that, you’re good,” says local hunter and angler Fred Rowe, spreading his hands wide to show how much is legal. Instead of a huge expanse being out of bounds except for a few blips, it’s only a few blips in a huge expanse that are out of bounds.

To a hunter in the Eastern Sierra, access can mean something else as well: access to game in front-country. If frontcountry is roughly defined as areas within a mile or two of a road, that represents a lot of the land in Inyo County. In some areas, hunting can begin just outside the city limits. Now, don’t get the wrong idea: that doesn’t mean hunters should make a habit of shooting off guns as soon as they’re 150 yards past the last house on any main street. But it does mean that Eastern Sierra towns and roads are close to the wilderness, some even deep wilder-ness. Hunting, especially bird hunting, doesn’t always have to mean a long search for a remote destination.

A hunter can find good public land and bag a duck, chukar or grouse, or even a coyote or rabbit, and be back to the campsite early enough to cook it and still get into town for some bowling and live music.

Access also means people. Here in the Eastern Sierra, hunting is a pastime. Questions about hunting are welcomed in tourism centers, sporting good stores and lodges. Even at the local market or diner there’s usually someone happy to trade stories about hunting on the Eastside. Shared tips, favorite spots, people are downright proud about getting hunters new to the area pointed in the right direction.

Guides and mentors abound, and they’re a resource worth tapping. Nabbing a duck or a rabbit in the frontcountry is great, but asking around and getting a guide who knows the backcountry – and the law – could net the kind of big game which could feed a family for a month … and yield stories for a lifetime.

All hunting in California requires a licence. Different licenses apply for different game. Larger game such as deer, antelope, elk and bighorn sheep requires a tag which must be applied for. Tags are not guar-anteed, some tag applications are entries into a draw. Tags apply to certain zones.

Any first-time hunters in California also must pass a Hunter Education training course.

Hunting is seasonal, most seasons beginning in August or later; check the calendar for exact dates of opening and closing for particular animals. Archery has different tags and a different season schedule from general hunting.

For information on education, tags, zones, licensing and season dates, consult the California Department of Fish and Wildlife hunting page at https://www.wildlife.ca.gov/Hunting.

For the kids• Sledding: One popular spot is near Intake II in Bishop Creek Canyon. If the kids are too

young to fly down a hill, bring hot chocolate and make a snowman.• Christmas train rides at Laws Railroad Museum. Call (760) 873-5950 for details.• Exploring in the Alabama Hills: These unique rock formations are perfect for kids to

explore. They can also find the locations where old and new favorite movies alike were filmed. – KB

by: Louis Israel

into thewildInyo County offers wide-open access to public lands for hunting fowl and game


Trails, trails and more trails, from sea level to 11,000 feet in elevation.

Inyo County offers approximately 4,000 miles of dirt roads, plus additional motorcycle and ATV trails, that are open to the public on Bureau of Land Management and Forest Service land. This land is our land, and there is no charge to visit Mother Nature up close. Surrounding the Owens Valley are three mountain ranges, the Sierra, Inyo and White mountains, all of which are off-highway-vehicle-accessible.

In the summer, you can explore the higher elevations where it is cool and in the winter go to the lower elevation on the valley floors. You can choose from the many campgrounds and hotels or rough it with dispersed camping. The landscape can vary from sand dunes and desert, to forest and moonscapes above the tree line. Many of the hills are pockmarked with old mines and some of the rocks have very old artwork that was carved by Native Americans. Wildflowers abound in the spring and the aspen trees glitter in gold and yel-low in the fall.

There are two Open OHV Areas where you are free to roam: the Olancha Dunes area east of Olancha on State Route 190, and the Poleta OHV area just east of Bishop. Although the Olancha dunes are not real tall they are insurmountable by many vehicles and it is fun to play in the sand. The Poleta area, five miles east of Bishop and therefor close to numerous services, is more than 1,800 acres of steep hills, dips and valleys. The area has been upgraded with a new staging and parking area, signed loop routes, kiosk and a rest-room.

In the winter months it is ideal to visit Death Valley, Panamint Valley, Saline Valley, Owens Valley and Chalfant Valley. These areas range in ele-vation from sea level to 4000 feet, rarely have any snow and have a milder climate. Some of these areas can have wonderful spring flowers and you can find old mining spots throughout these areas. Hot springs are popular destinations in Saline Valley, Tecopa, Benton and Bishop. There are many trails around the boulders in the Alabama Hills and you can check out the sites of many old Western films. Due to sudden winter storms it is advisable to stay out of the high-elevation areas.

In the summer months head for the moun-tains and points north. Many roads lead into the White, Inyo and Sierra mountain ranges. Old min-ing roads that cling to the side of the mountain

provide amazing vistas as you look across the val-ley to another mountain range, or across several ranges. Variations in geology combined with moun-tain springs provide a wide spectrum of ecosys-tems. Deer, coyote, bighorn sheep, rabbits and squirrels make their home in these areas. In the fall, the groves of aspen provide a colorful back-drop for some amazing photographs.

These are great destinations if your interests include bird watching, rock collecting, historical sights, petroglyphs, arborglyphs, photography, wild-flowers, dispersed camping, hunting, fishing and just plain relaxing. Meanwhile you can stock up in the friendly small communities spread throughout these areas.

There are two great OHV maps available that are produced by the California Trail Users Coalition. One is called the “Inyo National Forest (North) and Bishop Area BLM,” the other is called “Inyo County- Inyo National Forest (South), BLM and Death Valley.” These maps are available at the most visitor centers.

There are trails for all types and sizes of vehicles. The trails range from easy to difficult with just a few that are rated most difficult. It is important to have good tires that are suitable for the trails in order to avoid flat tires. Always take plenty of water and use the buddy system. Always let somebody know where you are going and when you will be back.

It is important that we use it and not abuse it. It is fun to visit these many areas and hopeful-ly they will remain accessible for generations to come. The OHV community is the guardian and must protect these resources so that the areas remain open to everyone. Remember: Pack it in, pack it out; tread lightly; stay on the trail; and share the road.

by: Mike Johnston

roads to adventureATV and OHV routes abound from Death Valley to Chalfant Valley

You can choose from the many campgrounds or rough it with dispersed camping. The landscape can vary from sand dunes and desert, to forest and moonscapes

above the tree line. Many of the hills are pockmarked with old mines and some of rocks have very old artwork that was carved by Native Americans.

Popular areas to visit:

Saline ValleySteel Pass – Hot SpringsUbehebe Pass – Race Track

Panamint ValleyDefense MineMengal PassLone PineAlabama HillsSalt Tram – Cerro GordoIndependenceMazourka Canyon – Death

Valley Road

Big PineMcMurray MeadowsWarren BenchBishopButtermilk LoopCoyote RidgeSilver CanyonChalfantChidago Canyon


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