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HERBAL TECHNOLOGY AN OVERVIEW ITS STANDARDIZATION IN FORMULATIONSProf. A. Ravi Kumar M.Pharm., Ph.DHEAD OF DEPARTMENTPHARMACOGNOSYTOPIC:HERBAL TECHNOLOGY AN OVERVIEW ITS STANDARDIZATION IN FORMULATIONS
1.Introduction 1.Introduction 2.Classification 2.Classification A. Skin cosmeticsA. Skin cosmetics• CreamCream• Lip balmLip balm• PowderPowder• Lotion & LinimentLotion & Liniment• Face packFace pack• Deodorant & antiperspirantDeodorant & antiperspirant• Bath preparationBath preparationB.Hair cosmeticsB.Hair cosmetics• ShampooShampoo
C. Tooth cosmetics• Mouth wash• DentifricesD. Nail preparationE. Shaving preparationsF. Foot preparations
INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTIONDefinition of cosmetic:Definition of cosmetic: Cosmetics by their intended use, as articles intended to be Cosmetics by their intended use, as articles intended to be rubbed. Poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced in to, or rubbed. Poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced in to, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness, or altering the beautifying, promoting, attractiveness, or altering the appearance.appearance.HERBAL COSMECEUTICALS:HERBAL COSMECEUTICALS:Cosmetics containing an active ingredient obtained from plant origin. Objectives:To enhance the general appearance of face and other body parts to minimize the skin defects to a considerable extentPsychological, social and clinical application.
The main function of this covering is to protect body, eliminate waste material & regulate body temperature.
CreamsCreamssemi-solid emulsions that is mixtures of oil and water
Uses of creamsUses of creams Ideal characteristicIdeal characteristicProtect the skin Non toxicRetention of moisture Easily spreadsCleansing Remains stable Emollient effects Not too hygroscopic As barrier with sunscreens Easy to remove
1.1. According to emulsion phaseAccording to emulsion phase W/O creamsW/O creams
Eg: Cold cream, Emollient cream O/W creamsO/W creams
Eg: Shaving cream, foundation cream, Vanishing cream
2. According to functional aspect2. According to functional aspect• Cold & cleansing creams• Night & Nourishing creams• Vanishing & Foundation creams• All –purpose cream • Others : Anti-acne, anti-wrinkle cream
Invented by GalenGalen: Galen's cold cream was based on beeswax and water, also containing olive oil and rose petals for softness and scent.It is an emulsion of water and certain fats (W/O)Normally following base are used:Normally following base are used:Almond oil, white bees wax Borax (used as emulsifier),Rose waterMethod of preparation:Method of preparation:Dissolve borax in hot rose water.Melt various waxes together keeping the temp. about 70C.Mix both the oil & water phase at same temp. with constant stirring.Mix without heat for 1 hrs &when cool (45-50C), add perfumeFor example: (Red apple extract)
o/w Creamso/w CreamsWhen applied to the skin leave an almost invisible layer on it.Produce emollient and moisturizing effect.Method:Method:•Melt stearic acid & lanolin. Mix water, glycerine, extract & triethanolamine &warm to same temp. as that of melted stearic acid and lanolin. Mix with continuous stirring.• Add preservative &perfume. Mix them thoroughly in order to obtain a uniform product
vanishing cream:vanishing cream:Stearic acid, Glycerin, Lanolin, Triethanolamine, Natural jojoba extract, Preservative, Water, perfume.
It is non greasy &provides nourishment & protection to the skin.Example: Ingredients:Aloe vera (Nourishes & moisturizes the skin)Indian Kino tree, Ashwaganda (Protect skin from pollution & dry weather)(Protect skin from pollution & dry weather)
Gotu Kola (May increases the production of collagen)Other Ingredients:Liquid paraffin, Glycerin,BHT,Sodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol,Methylparaben,etc.
Nourishes the skin all night with revitalizers, nutrients & moisturizers.
It provides moisture to the skin by preventing evaporation.
Composition:Pyrus malus (Crab Apple): Cooling, Soothing and KeratolyticTriticum sativum (Wheat): Preventing black heads.Citrus limon (Lemon):It protects the skin
from oxidative damageLilium polyphyllum (White Lily): Astringent
Solanum lycopersicum (Tomato):Antioxidant
A great moisturizer for dry skin that helps heal, repair, and maintain soft, supple skin.Increasing skin hydration (by reducing evaporation)
Method of formulation:Heat coconut oil & beeswax until wax melt. Stir & cool slowly add the slowly add the aloe vera aloe vera gel a drop at a time.gel a drop at a time.Continue stirring & when the mixture thickens, add the vitamin oil & chamomile extract.
IngredientsAloe vera gel Chamomile extractVitamin ECoconut oilBeeswax
It acts as a superficial disease that affects the hair follicles and oil secreting glands of the skin.
Composition actions
Lens culinaris(Lentil) Reduce inflammation Silk cotton tree AstringentSaurashtri(Alum) EmollientVitex negundo Anti-inflammatory
Sunscreen cream are those topical preparations which protect the skin by harmful sunlight either by scatter sunlight or to absorb erythemogenic radiations. Examples Examples Aloe veraFat-soluble walnut extractBees waxHydrogenated ricinus oil
It delays wrinkles and smoothes fine lines.Regular use prevents oxidative skin damage.
Composition Action
Aloe vera antibacterial & antifungal
Papaver rhoeas emollient
Vitis vinifera nourish the skin
Solanum lycopersicum antioxidant
Santalum album alleviate itching and inflammation.
It inhibits the formation of melanin. It reduces pigmentation. Composition Action
Rosa centifolia improves complexion
Citrus reticulata removes blemishes
Aloe vera moisturizes and softens skin.
Rubia cordifolia reduces freckles
Santalum album reduces irritation
Sympiocos racemosa lightens color
It prevents chapping, drying & cracking of the lips.It contains a natural UV filter and Vit.E which nourishes, tones and softens the lips.
Composition Action
Ricinus communis
relieve various inflammatory conditions of the skin & mucus membrane
Cocos nucifera emollient (softening the lips)
Triticum sativum prevents loss of moisture from the skin (vit.E)
Wrightia tinctoria
Anti bacterial , astringent
Daucus carota sunscreen & fragrance
LotionA lotion is a low- to medium-viscosity, topical preparation intended for application to unbroken skin; creams and gels have a higher viscosity. It is applied without friction.Most lotions are oil-in-water emulsions.Lotions can be used for the delivery to the skin of medications such as:Antibiotics ,Antiseptics ,Antifungal ,Corticosteroids ,Anti-acne agents Soothing, smoothing, moisturizing or protective agents.
Various types of lotions are
Hand and body lotions
Skin toning lotions
Astringent lotions
Medicated lotions
The raw materials used in making the lotion includesThe raw materials used in making the lotion includes
Natural gums (family- Leguminosae)
Gum acacia (Acacia arabica)
Guar gum (Cyamopsis tetragonolobus)
Tragacanth (Astragalus gummifer)
Natural astringents
Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)
Rosemary oil (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Natural antiseptic
Haldi (Curcuma longa)
Eucalyptous oil
Neem
Natural preservatives Artemisia afraPteronia incana
Cooling agents
Menthol (Mentha piperata)
Water, Glycerin and other humectants, Alcohol, perfume
Face packs It stimulates the blood circulation, tone the muscles and maintain the elasticity of the skin.Also they draw out impurities from the pores.
Composition Action
Azadirachta indica antibacterial , helps in controlling acne and pimples
Fuller's earth anti-inflammatory
Curcuma longa antiseptic
COSMETICS FOR HAIRShampoo: liquid, creamy or gel-like • Cleansing of hair without leaving the hair greasy & dry.• Not produce irritation in eye, Contain an effective germicide,
fungicide or antiseptic, Easy to remove• Reduce the degree of itching, scaling and inflammationIngredients use in shampoos:A.Surfactants:
Anionic surfactants superior foaming properties and low cost E.g Alkyl benzene sulphonatesCationic surfactants- They produce good foam, leave hair lustrous and have good. E.g. Cetyl pyridinum saltsAmphoteric surfactants-E.g. n-alkyl amino acidsgood cleansing and foaming properties
B) Conditioning agent: Mineral oil, lanolin C) Viscosity modifiers: NaCl, Natural gums
– Thickening of shampooD) Opacifying agents: TiO2
E) Sequestering agent: EDTAF) Preservatives: Methyl/propyl parabensG) Perfumes:H) Antimicrobials- Thymol
Classified according to function as:– Protein shampoo– Anti dandruff shampoo– Conditioning shampoo
Protein shampoo
USES:• Shikakai and ushira- soften the hair• Musk roof- promotes hair growth• Soapnut- hair from excessive oil secretion, dirt, dust• Fenugreek- provide natural proteins
Contents Weight Acacia concinna (shikakai) 47.60 mg
Vetiveria zizanioids (ushira) 6.95 mg
Nardostachys jatamansi (musk root)
6.95 mg
Sapindus mukorossi (soap nut) 2.08 mg
Trigonella foenum-gracum (fenugreek)
2.08 mg
Water up to 1 ml
Anti-dandruff shampoo
Significance of each extract:• Rusmari- destroys dandruff• Neem- protects from germs• Tulsi- protects from germs• Shikakai- cleanses and conditions hair• Amla- strengtns hair, Henna- provides rich and healthy shine
Contents Weight Rosmarinus officinalis (rusmari) 103 mg
Azadirachta indica (neem) 5.15 mg
Ocimum sanctum (tulsi) 5.15 mg
Acacia concinna (shikakai) 5.15 mg
Phylsanthus emblica (amla) 5.15 mg
Lawsonia inermis (henna) 5.15 mg
Water up to 5 ml
To enhance untangling of wet hair and improve manageability of both wet and hair.
Formulation of conditioning shampoo
Conditioning shampoo
Contents Weight Cicer arietinumCicer arietinum (Chick pea) (Chick pea) 60 mg
Sapindus mukorossiSapindus mukorossi (Ritha) (Ritha) 60 mg
Jasminum officinaleJasminum officinale (Jasmine) (Jasmine) 40 mg
Eclipta albaEclipta alba (Thistle) (Thistle) 15 mg
HAIR COLORANTS
Hair dye should possess following characteristics:It should be non-injurious to the hair shaftIt should possess no systemic toxic effect or irritation when applied to the hairIt should have affinity for hair keratin
Some herbs used to color the hair include: •Eclipta alba: Whole plant extract is useful for hair nourishment and dyeingWhole plant extract is useful for hair nourishment and dyeing•Juglans regia:Leaves and haul of fruits for hair dyeing•Lawsonia inermis (henna), •Acacia katechu, •Emblica officinalis (amla)•Tea leaves
TOOTH PREPARATIONS
To prevent and control of teeth disorders, which include dentifrices and mouthwashDENTIFRICES:The basic requirements of a dentifrice are-1. To remove food debris, plaque and stain.2. It should leave the mouth with a fresh, clean sensation.3. It should be harmless, pleasant and convenient to use.
BOTANICALBOTANICAL ACTIVITY
Azadirachta indica (Neem) Protects gums from bacteriaEugenia caryophyllus(Laung) Clove oil is used as analgesic
in tooth pain
Glycyrrhiza glabra(mulethi) It cures mouth ulcers
Cinnamomum zeylanicum(dalchini)
Cinnamon oil is used as flavouring agent
Mentha piperita(pudina) flavoring agent and has mild antiseptic properties
Various botanicals used in preparation of dentifrices are
TOOTH PASTETo remove adherent soiling matter from a hard surface with minimal damage
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY % ROLE
Calcium pyrophosphate 38 abrasive
stannous pyrophosphate 2 abrasive
Stannous fluoride 0.4 fluoride
Glycerin 25 humectant
Sorbitol 12.5 humectant
Irish moss 1.5 Binders
Sodium saccharin 0.05 Sweetners
Sodium lauryl sulphate 2 Surfactners
Water 100 Solvent
Flavor Qs flavour
METHOD OF FORMULATION
•The hydration of the gelling agent•Dispersion of the abrasive in gel•To add the active ingredients late in the mixing cycle•Add the surface active agent•Flavor last of all.For example – 1. Herbal toothpaste1. Herbal toothpasteIngredients :Calcium carbonate,sorbitol, fennel (Foeniculum vulgare),clove bud (Eugenia caryophyllus),Neem leaf(azadirachta indica),and neem bark,peppermint (mentha piperita),essential oils,ascorbic acid (vitamin C)
Mouth washesTo give a healthier and fresher mouth and to provide some assurance of good breath odour.
Ingredients: Deionized water, certified organic aloe barbadensis gel, super critical extracts of mentha piperata, azadirachta indica leaf and bark, Eugenia caryophilous, ascorbic acid, xylitol, potassium sorbate
Nail preparationsNail Enamels:
Nitrocellulose
Solvent, like toluene
Pigments: minerals or organic lakes
Plasticizer like DEP, camphor
Resin for film strength and flexibility: Toluene Sulfonamide
Formaldehyde,
Nail cream- Nails can become brittle due to dehydration. Nail creams contain an emmolient like olive oil and lanolin
Shaving preparations Shaving cream:
A good shaving cream should have following characteristics:It must give an abundant latherIt must remain soft in tubeIt must tacky to adhere to both brush & face
For example:Stearic acid, Mineral oil, Beeswax, Menthol, Soap flakes, Water
After shave preparationsTo relieve slight irritation after shaving.To recover injury after shaving.Humectants and emollientsHumectants and emollients-like glycerol and sorbitol etcCooling effect of skin is achieved by adding mentholAstringency is achieved by adding witch hazel extract and zincwitch hazel extract and zincEg. Nivea after shave lotion Nivea after shave lotion Contains: chamomilechamomile, vitamin E, and provitamin B5. Calms skin helps to prevent irritations.
Foot preparationBacteria staphylococcus epidermidis giving rise to bad odors.
Composition Action Shoera robusta (sal tree) AntimicrobialCurcuma longa (turmeric)
Antiseptic
Trigonella foenum graceum (fenugreek)
Arevents boils, ulcers
Zingiber officinale (ginger)
Aubifacient