Heat Exchanger Coil:

Build Instructions

Tank Assemblies

Feed Tank (Drawing: WS-101)

o Use a jig-saw to cut a large circle into the top

of the barrel, 2-3 inches in from the edge

o Leave the lip intact.

Feed Tank Valve Assembly

o Using a cordless drill, Drill 1/2” hole 3 inches up from the bottom of the feed

tank.

o Insert the ½” conduit hub (Drawing: WS-103) into the hole and secure with

plyers.

o Cover the threads of the ½” x 3” pipe nipple (Drawing: WS-106) with plumbers

tape and thread into the conduit coupler.

o Thread the ½” Brass Ball Valve (Drawing: WS-105) onto the pipe nipple.

o Cover both threads of the ¾” Hose to ½” Pipe (Male) Thread Adapter (Drawing:

WS-112) with plumbers tape.

o Thread in the larger side into the ball valve.

Output Tank

o Use a jigsaw to cut a square hole from the

top of the barrel

o Drill a 1/2 ” hole into the side of the barrel

about 3”. This is for the input hose.

Output Hose Bib (Drawing: WS-312)

o Drill a ¾” hole on the opposite side of the

previous hole, about 3” above the ground.

o Thread the hose bib into the hole.

o Hand tighten all the way.

Bending Copper Coil (Rough In)

Turn Kon-Tiki kiln up-side-down on a flat surface.

Mark half-way up on the outside of the Kon-Tiki

with tape or marker.

Measure 50” on one end of the coil, and 45” on the

other end. Mark this point with tape. These sections will

be bent differently to form the input and output of the helix.

Have one person hold one end of the coil in place at

the half-way mark. Have the other person holding

the rest of the coil walk slowly around the Kon-Tiki,

bending the pipe around the diameter of the kiln.

The person holding the pipe to the kiln will need to

rotate around the kiln with the second person to

continuously hold the bending coil in place.

Try to keep your coil at the half-way mark. This is to maintain a size close to the final

required diameter.

After entire coil is bent remove the coil from the

Kon-Tiki. (This may require you to remove one of the

legs).

Silver Solder Copper Brazing

Input and Output Diffuser Assembly

o Cut 3” length of ½” schedule L copper straight pipe (Drawing: WS-109).

o Braze the ½” Male Copper Adapter (Drawing: WS-108) to one end of the copper

pipe.

o Braze the copper ½” – 3/8” Copper Reducer (Drawing: WS-110) to the other end

of the copper pipe

o Braze this combination of parts to the end of Copper Coil (Drawing: WS-202)

Use high temp flux to prep all couplings

Use high temp silver solder to braze all couplings

o After connections are cool, wrap male copper pipe thread coupling with plumbers

tape.

Support Triangles (Drawing: WS-203)

Measure and cut two 5” x 5” aluminum sheet

metal squares

Measure and mark out center-point holes along the

diagonal in accordance with the drawing

Use a riser block, clamps, and a 45 deg. triangle to

set up both squares on the vertical mill

Use a 5/8” diameter mill tool to cut the oval

shaped holes

Use a 0.1” diameter drill bit to cut holes for the

wire.

Drill ¼” holes as for support bolts

Remove each square from the mill and cut in half

down the center-line with a band saw

Support Bars

Cut a 6 ft length of 1” x 1” steel bar (Drawing: WS-

201)

Drill a 1/4” hole all the way through the bar 24.75”

from either end of the bar (2 holes)

On one side of the bar, increase the ¼” hole to a ½”

hole to allow for the bolt head.

Cut two 15” lengths of 1” x 1” bar

Use the vertical mill to make the 1”

and 4” cuts shown in (Drawing: WS-204)

There are multiple ways to do this

but the method used was to use the mill to

make the initial cut down the length of the

bar. Then flip the bar and remove the “flap”

created at the desired length.

Drill 1/4” holes in the locations

shown in (Drawing WS-204)

Support Assembly (Drawings: WS-201, WS-203, WS-204)

Bolt together the support bars

Bolt together the support triangles to the support bars

Bending Coil (Final) (Drawing: WS-200) Put support bar structure up-side-down on a flat

surface.

Place entire coil over the support bar structure.

Start at the end of the copper pipe with the 50”

measurement.

Place this end of the copper pipe into the

uppermost slots (smallest diameter helix).

Tie the pipe into the slot with copper wire. This is

tricky but do you best to make it as tight as possible.

Attach the other two support triangles using the

copper wire.

o Use a tape measure to make sure the

diameter of the smallest coil is about 23”

Continue this process until the entire coil

is attached to the support triangles. (Teamwork

is advised)

The best way to make a concentric helix

was found to have people pull on the pipe from

opposite sides. Doing this repetitively while

rotating around the helix allowed for a nice

circular shape as well as equal spacing.

Thermostat Housing (Drawings: WS-302, WS-303) Cutting Blank Stock to Length

o Use “DoAll” machine to cut one 6.5” and one 5.5” section of aluminum from the

blank stock

Sections are 2” longer than needed so the chuck teeth of the lathe has enough

space to grip specimen

o De-burr cut edge of each specimen

o Wash the cut sections with soap and water to remove lubricant and burrs

Turning of Outlet Side (Drawing: WS-303)

o Place 5.5” specimen into lathe chuck and

tighten

o Using the lathe, face the outer surface of the

housing to make a uniform/flat surface

o Use a starter tool to put an initial hole into

the center of the specimen

o Use a 3/8” bore tool to bore into specimen

1.5”

o Use die to thread 3/8” hole with ½-14 NPT

straight pipe tapered thread

o Use a cutting tool to reduce the outside

diameter of 2.25” of the specimen from 3” to 2”

diameter

o Using a band saw, remove 2” of length

from the specimen

o Use a starter tool to put an initial hole into the

center of the specimen

o Use a 1.5” bore tool to bore out into specimen 1.5”

Turning of Inlet Side (Drawing: WS_302)

o Place 6.5” specimen into lathe chuck and tighten

o Using the lathe, face the outer surface of the housing to make a uniform/flat surface

o Use a starter tool to put an initial hole into the center of the specimen

o Use a 3/8” bore tool to bore into specimen 1.5”

o Use die to thread 3/8” hole with ½-14 NPT straight pipe tapered thread

o Use a cutting tool to reduce the outside diameter of 3.25” of the specimen from 3” to

2” diameter

o Remove specimen from chuck and rotate 180 deg. Re-attach chuck to the 2”

diameter part of the specimen

o Using a cutting tool, remove 2” of length from the specimen

o Use a starter tool to put an initial hole into the center of the specimen

o Use a 1.5” bore tool to bore out into specimen 2.5”

o Use a cutting tool to create a 2.11” diameter hole of depth .083” in flange face

Output Hose

a. Attach the hose to the Copper Male Threaded Adapter (Drawing: WS-309)

i. Use hose clamp to assure secure connection

b. Wrap plumbers tape around male threads of coupling