GRAM Magazine: November 2013 // Edition 34

MELBOURNE ISSUE 34 FREE

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Gram is a free monthly publication dedicated

to promoting the exciting and diverse food

culture Melbourne is renowned for.

Each issue features a compilation of food

and drink based blogs taken from the

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Although each featured blogger has their own unique style and flair,

one thing that remains constant is that they all seek to put a positive

spin on Melbourne’s food and drink scene. We thank the bloggers

that have been involved in this issue. Danielle Gullaci, Editor

Food factsA beautifully fragranced herb,

the basil plant is part of the

mint family. It is an annual herb

that loves the sun and is in

season during summer. Basil is

the perfect addition to pestos,

sauces, salads and pizza.

This monthIn this issue, we feature the recently held Melbourne leg of the Gelato

World Tour, as well as reviews of Barry, Tom Thumb, Zumbo Patisserie,

NBHD Neanderthal, Aka Siro and Young Bloods Diner. Also inside is a

delicious Syrian chicken recipe and wine reviews.

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CAB AUDITED

SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON

BARRY(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

It’s something to celebrate when the weather is amazing on the weekends and for once, you

can go out and enjoy it instead of being cooped up in the office. Our plans to head out to the

wineries fell through so instead we decided to bask in the sun and enjoy some food.

Northcote is a new dining hotspot that I am more than happy to venture out to these days

and Barry is the new kid on the block (coincidently, right next to Merricote, another favourite

of mine). You may recognise the clean, bright and simplistic aesthetic of Barry, along with

Touchwood and Pillar of Salt – they have all been opened up by the same people.

We arrived slightly after Bestie S, so by that time, she had already nabbed a table after a

brief wait outside. Bestie S chose the weather-appropriate iced coffee with honey, which

towards the end overwhelmed her with the milkiness of it and possibly by the size of it too.

Mr A and I enjoyed our coffees, both robust and strong as requested.

I had originally wanted to order the cucumber and gin cured ocean trout with freekeh,

cauliflower, pomegranate, coriander, kale and a soft boiled egg, however Mr A also made the

decision to order it so I changed my mind so that we would be able to sample more dishes. It

was Mr A’s fortune that I did because as soon as he took a bite out of the salad, he demanded

a dish swap claiming it was too healthy. In the end, we both lucked out as I loved the dish.

Despite being very healthy, the fresh elements and flavours of the dish made it stand out and

the sweet pops of pomegranate contrasted well against the briny strips of cucumber and gin

cured ocean trout. There were plenty of super foods in this salad so I’ll be keeping this one

in mind for future recreations for work lunches.

BARRY85 High Street, Northcote. Ph: 9481 3371

ABOUT PETIT MIAMXCatherine has a penchant for all things fun and delicious

with a large part of her day spent thinking about food

– if she’s not eating, then she’s thinking about the next

opportunity for a big foodie blowout. Her love of food

also translates through to her travels around the world,

sharing her experiences in her ‘petite travel guide’ series.

WWW.PETITMIAMX.COM.AU

Words and photos by Petit Miamx

DESPITE BEING VERY HEALTHY, THE FRESH ELEMENTS AND FLAVOURS OF THE DISH MADE IT STAND OUT AND THE SWEET POPS OF POMEGRANATE CONTRASTED WELL AGAINST THE BRINY STRIPS OF CUCUMBER AND GIN CURED OCEAN TROUT.

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Harnessing the natural oils of grapefruits and a hint of mandarin, Schweppes Agrum Collection Citrus Blend has a fresh zesty

finish crafted for the adult palate.

SCHWEPPES AGRUM COLLECTION

CITRUS BLEND

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Bestie S went for the eggs benny which came with a delicious, buttery

potato rosti and ham hock, which was so flaky it fell apart. The hollandaise

was light and tangy without an overwhelming richness to it, perhaps

due to the apple cider in it, and finished with granny smith apples which

helped to freshen up the dish.

The baked eggs, as recommended by our waiter, were more to Mr A’s

tastes. We ordered it with a serve of the pork and apple sausages for

extra protein and the flavour was really great. I found that the herby salsa

verde helped cut through the acidity of the tomato sugo (a type of fresh

tomato based sauce). While Mr A thought his dish was okay, he was much

more satisfied with it, in lieu of his original dish.

We decided to kill another hour by having a relaxing drink before heading

out to meet others for an afternoon tipple. Bestie S and Mr A had recently

enjoyed the 961 pale ale at Bayte so they decided to give the red ale a

try. They thought it was okay but actually preferred the pale ale instead.

The prosecco was perfect for the afternoon – a nice finish without being

overly sweet.

I enjoyed my time at Barry and the airy ambience was so ideal for the

great weather. I loved my meal and found that the pricing was on par

with the dearer cafés in Melbourne (just over $20 per person for food

and a coffee).

Service was great however they did take a while to notice us at times;

completely understandable considering how busy they were that day.

I wouldn’t hesitate to come back as the other dishes that passed by

throughout our meal looked so appetising.

Food: 8.5/10

Service: 8/10

Value: 7.5/10

Will I return? Yes, I really enjoyed my visit.

BESTIE S WENT FOR THE EGGS BENNY WHICH CAME WITH A DELICIOUS, BUTTERY POTATO ROSTI AND HAM HOCK, WHICH WAS SO FLAKY IT FELL APART. THE HOLLANDAISE WAS LIGHT AND TANGY WITHOUT AN OVERWHELMING RICHNESS TO IT.

HERBY SALSA VERDE HELPED CUT THROUGH THE ACIDITY OF THE TOMATO SUGO (A TYPE OF FRESH TOMATO BASED SAUCE).

www.chefshat.com.au

Everything a great Chef needs for every occasion

CHRISTMAS COOKING?


TOM THUMB(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

9


From those trendy fellas who brought us Clement Coffee and Duchess of

Spotswood, this ‘hole-in-the-wall’ espresso joint has got it all going on.

The boys are experts in creating the upmost trendy places serving fine

coffee and delivering a joyous experience. The menu at Tom Thumb

includes classic breakfasts, fresh sandwiches for lunch and delicious

sweets.

Great coffee from Clement Coffee is served featuring their Pony blend

and a single origin. The first sip is a pleasant reminder of how coffee

should taste: delicate, smooth and delicious. The rest is just bliss.

The ‘hole-in-the-wall’ expands to a cosy upstairs area which became my

office for a couple of hours. A perfect thinking spot for me, a perfect

making-out spot for the couple behind me and an intimate catch up spot

for the older ladies on the other table.

The spiced pork sausage with a fried egg on sourdough was nostalgic.

It hugged my tastebuds and warmed the cockles of my heart. A simple

menu that tastes homemade without all the hard work. Serving classics

such as toast, muesli (organic), fried eggs, baked beans, crumpets and

the latest rave – truffles.

So whether you are looking for a perfect thinking spot, a place to make

out or catch up with your old ladies – Tom Thumb is the place. Rumour

has it they could be opening at night soon too. Stay tuned.

TOM THUMB53 Flinders Lane, Melbourne

ABOUT FORKSAKEI’m Ricky. Growing up around restaurants, good food never really amazed me... until

I got kicked out and had to decide what to eat on my own. I discovered fast food is

not so great. So here I am, appreciating good food on a whole new level – and eating,

photographing and writing about it.

WWW.FORKSAKE.COM

Words and photos by ForkSake

Words and photos by My Fair Melbourne


Ominous grey clouds and a chilly breeze didn’t stop hordes of hungry

Melbourne gelato lovers from flocking to the Gelato World Tour in Carlton

on the last weekend of October. Over 70,000 people grabbed their gelato

spoons and headed to the event, an international competition and festival

dedicated to the production (and consumption) of artisan gelato.

Together, we consumed 50,000 cups and 80,000 cones of gelato over

three days – that is 130,000 serves of gelato. It was a weekend to be

remembered, leaving thousands of sugar highs, cardboard cups and little

multi coloured fluorescent gelato spoons in its wake.

But it wasn’t just about getting all giddy on the sweet stuff. The GWT

is an international artisan gelato competition travelling to eight cities

around the world. Melbourne hosted the Oceania stage of the tour where

16 artisans from Australia and New Zealand competed for a spot in the

world finals in Italy. Judging was determined 50 per cent by a technical

jury (headed by Guy Grossi in Melbourne) and 50 per cent by public vote.

I attended the GWT on the Sunday in the afternoon. At least four marquees

were set up serving the contestants’ creamy creations. Patrons were given

voting cards and the lines for the tastings stretched far into Argyle Square.

It was clear which flavours the public were most excited about from the size

of the queues snaking through the crowd and the persistent nudging and

elbowing. The line for Gelato Messina’s flavour ‘Cremino’ – a salted caramel

GELATO WORLD TOUR

ABOUT MY FAIR MELBOURNE My Fair Melbourne is written by Melbourne

corporate Melissa Lirosi whose daily life involves

slurping steaming coffee on her way to work,

shovelling pink sashimi into her mouth before her

2pm teleconference and plucking plump dumplings

from bamboo steamers on Friday nights. MFM

compiles Melissa’s views and reviews on the glorious

food, fashion and events in her fair city.

WWW.MYFAIRMELBOURNE.WORDPRESS.COM

THE LINE FOR GELATO MESSINA’S FLAVOUR ‘CREMINO’ – A SALTED CARAMEL GELATO WITH HAZELNUT FUDGE, CRUSHED AMARETTI AND FRESH MERINGUE – WAS AROUND 20 MINUTES LONG. I JUMPED STRAIGHT IN THAT LINE AS SOON AS I ARRIVED.

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gelato with hazelnut fudge, crushed amaretti and fresh meringue – was

around 20 minutes long. I jumped straight in that line as soon as I arrived.

The ‘Cremino’ was a contradiction, a creamy super sweet gelato with a

strong salt finish. The hazelnut fudge was generously folded throughout

and was dense, almost chewy in texture. I loved the salt which really

intensified and lifted the flavours in the gelato. Overall though I found

the ‘Cremino’ a little too sweet for my taste, but it was the clear crowd

favourite on the day.

Next up I went for the entry by New South Wales’ John Crowl (of Cow

and the Moon). The flavour ‘Mandorla Affogato’ is a Madagascan vanilla

bean gelato with roasted caramelised coffee almonds and a coffee

caramel sauce. The vanilla gelato was smooth and creamy with lashings

of delicious strong and sweet coffee syrup. The coffee almonds were a

fantastic addition. Roasted and coated with a crunchy caramel toffee they

were a wonderful punctuation to the creaminess of the vanilla gelato. This

gelato was truly divine, by far my favourite gelato of the day.

My friend sampled the Deconstructed Kaya Toast flavour by Min Chai of

N2 Extreme Gelato which has recently opened its first Melbourne store on

Brunswick Street in Fitzroy. Kaya toast is a Malaysian spread made with

eggs, sugar and coconut milk. I have to say I have never tried Kaya spread

but I would love to. I heard murmurings in the crowd that this gelato was

quite good. Unfortunately I was so enamoured with my Mandorla Affogato

that I didn’t manage to score a mouthful.

The awards ceremony was held at 3pm and the competitors were all smiles

and nerves as they sat in the crowd proudly donning their chef hats and

waiting for the all important announcement. Gelato Messina’s Donato Toce

and Simone Panetta took out first prize with their flavour ‘Cremino’ which

was voted best by both the technical jury and the discerning public. I was

thrilled that my favourite flavour, ‘Mandorla Affogato’, came in second.

Third place went to Diana Kontoprias of Frangipani Gelato (Cronulla,

NSW) with her Aussie inspired ‘Pavlova’ flavour made with passionfruit

and meringue.

The Gelato World Tour will now go on to visit Dubai, Sao Paolo, Shanghai,

Austin and Berlin ahead of the grand final to be held in Rimini, Italy

in September next year. All three winners from the Oceania stage will

compete in Rimini where finalists from each country will go head to head

for the seriously impressive title of ‘World’s Best Gelato’.

The Gelato World Tour was brought to us by Sigep and Carpigiani

University.

THE COFFEE ALMONDS WERE A FANTASTIC ADDITION. ROASTED AND COATED WITH A CRUNCHY CARAMEL TOFFEE THEY WERE A WONDERFUL PUNCTUATION TO THE CREAMINESS OF THE VANILLA GELATO. THIS GELATO WAS TRULY DIVINE.

14


ZUMBO PATISSERIE(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

15


Opening hours: Daily from 7am until 7pm or sold out

On a weekly basis I have one of those meetings that completely and utterly

drains you. Remaining switched on conjures memories of trying desperately

not to fall asleep up the back of the lecture theatre following a last minute

Sunday session the previous day. All of your energy stores are empty. Your

glucose is non-existent, and the only way to fix the situation is with a serious

sugar hit. Earlier this week, my saving grace came in the form of a visit to

Zumbo Patisserie in South Yarra.

Zumbo rose to fame in Sydney following numerous MasterChef appearances

by now celebrity chef and owner, Adriano Zumbo. The Melbourne store

opened last month to an unnecessary amount of hype. We rocked up just

before midday, and given that punters had queued from 5am to get their

hands on a cronut or two on opening day, it was hardly surprising to see

people lining up for sweet treats before lunchtime.

ZUMBO PATISSERIE14 Claremont Street, South Yarra

POPPET’S WINDOWI’m not the kind of gal who’s lost for words very often. When I’m not copywriting for

clients or scribbling down feature stories, I’m eating. Sometimes I do both at the same

time. By combining my passion for prose, my fascination with food and my fervour for

photography, I hope to leave an impression on more than just your taste buds.

WWW.POPPETSWINDOW.COM

Words and photos by Poppet’s Window

ON A WEEKLY BASIS I HAVE ONE OF THOSE MEETINGS THAT COMPLETELY AND UTTERLY DRAINS YOU... ALL OF YOUR ENERGY STORES ARE EMPTY. YOUR GLUCOSE IS NON-EXISTENT, AND THE ONLY WAY TO FIX THE SITUATION IS WITH A SERIOUS SUGAR HIT. EARLIER THIS WEEK, MY SAVING GRACE CAME IN THE FORM OF A VISIT TO ZUMBO PATISSERIE IN SOUTH YARRA.

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Upon entering, we were intrigued to find a glitzy space with a nightclub feel.

Aside from some pink benches, bulbous with foam coated in plastic in an

attempt to look like globs of cake batter and icing, or something similarly

Wonka-esque, there are only two tables. Both are outside, and outside is not

somewhere you ever want to be in Claremont Street (unless of course you

have an urge to come down with a cold, ruin your hair from gale force winds

or show the world your underwear when wearing a skirt).

I found the garish décor detracted from dessert – it was only after gawking at

the glowing neon ‘Zumbo’ sign and mirrored walls and ceiling that I noticed

the sweets. Zumbo is not designed to be comfortable; it’s a business model

designed to get people in the front door, to the front counter, at the cash

register, and then out again. On that particular day, I was in no mood to rush.

We parked ourselves on a fairy floss bench seat and placed our loot in a line,

sans table, once we had ordered.

K I T C H E N • P A N T R Y • S C H O O L

64 Sutton Street, North Melbourne VIC 3051Bookings 9322 4750 9322 4755

[email protected] casabottega.com.au

DON’T MISS OUT

GINGERBREAD HOUSES

GET YOUR ORDER IN BYMONDAY 16 DEC

CHRISTMAS HAMPERS

THIS YEARCHRISTMAS CATERING

Ordering is no easy feat at Zumbo. You have to stand on tiptoes and glimpse

through the gaps between people and above prams if you want to see the

display. The counter is divided into a few sections. The far left features smallish

cakes that range from $25 to $29. The peanut butter and capsicum option had

me simultaneously curious and disgusted. I skipped over to the $9 individual

cakes. Deciding which to choose was tricky in a ‘kid-in-a-candy-store’ kind of

way. The carrot/cheesecake concoction complete with a secret garden on top,

and the endearingly named Annoying Orange Cake, dragged out my decision.

I eventually settled on a squat, yellow cylinder dubbed ‘Apple Fields’. It was the

promise of malt shortbread, sunflower praline crunch, honey carameux, sunflower

chiffon cake, toasted apple jelly compote and apple mousse that hooked me. I

didn’t want to like something that looked so manufactured, but it was bloody

good. The mousse was light and airy with layers of ingredients hidden within:

chunks of apple, a nutty crunch and a biscuit base to hold it all together.

But a sugar fix is not a sugar fix without some form of chocolate. At Zumbo it

was the Non Che Nudo Ka flourless chocolate cake, encased in a flawless green

dome with silky vanilla macaron mix, almond milk gel, earthy olive oil gel and

some tang courtesy of Bergamot mousse. It was more impressive than Apple

Fields, but not as enjoyable.

We also ordered a ‘Zumbaron’ each, just in case we didn’t have enough sugar on

our hands already. The finger bun macaron brought back memories of handing

over a $2 coin in exchange for my favourite after-school treat at Bakers’ Delight.

Initially there was the subtle taste of doughy cake batter, followed by a nostalgic

hit of coconut. But it was the pandan and sticky rice macaron that took out first

prize, tasting like a tropical Asian holiday complete with sweet, jammy grains of

rice. I couldn’t fault the texture or appearance of either.

In terms of the desserts themselves, my expectations were exceeded. They were

much better than when I sampled them in Sydney, although the Melbourne store

is a different concept from the dessert train at The Star. As for the space – let’s

just say I’d recommend getting in and out of there as quickly as possible, and I

get the inkling that’s exactly how they want you to feel.

Shockingly, despite the amount of sugar we ingested, neither of us actually

felt ill. No one can deny that the deserts are expertly crafted – light and fluffy

without being overly sweet – or maybe my sugar levels really were that low after

that meeting. But would I return? For sure. If I needed a takeaway treat and there

was a car park within 100 metres.

I DIDN’T WANT TO LIKE SOMETHING THAT LOOKED SO MANUFACTURED, BUT IT WAS BLOODY GOOD. THE MOUSSE WAS LIGHT AND AIRY WITH LAYERS OF INGREDIENTS HIDDEN WITHIN: CHUNKS OF APPLE, A NUTTY CRUNCH AND A BISCUIT BASE TO HOLD IT ALL TOGETHER.

Eating Clean

WITH SO MANY PEOPLE NOW TAKING A FRESH LOOK AT THEIR FOOD CHOICES, THERE ARE MANY SPECIALTY MENUS AVAILABLE IN MELBOURNE THAT ARE ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS.

SOUL FOOD CAFÉRenovated six months ago, this local hideaway shows off community art over breakfast, lunch, dinner and private functions. Beans, grains, spices and herbs create soul food, which is predominantly vegetarian. Organic produce is used wherever possible, including some recently introduced organic meat options and organic pizza bases made fresh in the kitchen. There is also a range of vegan and gluten free sweets, coffee and brilliant chai tea, and local and interstate brews on tap. Just around the corner from the hustle of Brunswick Street, this local vegan hub deserves a visit.

273 SMITH STREET, FITZROY

MERRY CUPCAKESAt Merry Cupcakes, it’s not just the taste that matters. All cupcakes are dairy-free, egg-free and vegan-friendly, with gluten-free options on Fridays, Saturdays, and via special order. Recipes are designed by Mary, who is the founder and a dietitian and nutritionist. These cupcakes are lower in saturated fat and sugar, and higher in fibre and nutritional goodness. But never fear, they don’t taste like cardboard either. They are moist, laced with real flavours (as they use real fruit and vegetables where present) and baked daily.

261 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY WWW.MERRYCUPCAKES.COM.AU

PALEO SNACKSThe paleo diet, or caveman diet, is a holistic way of eating that attempts to mimic the eating of humans some 10,000 years ago during the Paleolithic period. Paleo Snacks, Australia’s original and most trusted supplier of paleo foods, promotes a nutrient dense diet rich in meats, seafood, eggs, vegetables, fruit, berries, nuts and seeds. Processed foods and foods supplemented with refined sugars, additives, preservatives and chemicals are excluded. Paleo Snacks are filled with 100 per cent primal goodness to keep you feeling great and performing at your optimum.

WWW.PALEOSNACKS.COM.AU

PALEO . VEGETARIAN . ORGANIC . DAIRY FREE

SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKETWhen Colin Hutson was a toddler, he loved to play in the boxes his presents

came in rather than with the actual gifts. He found joy in the simplest of

materials and learnt to be very resourceful. And so began the genesis of White

Moose, inspired by Colin’s love of reusing and reinventing materials. White

Moose officially began with one product which was sold on the top of a small

wooden box at the Rose Street Market in Fitzroy. Now Colin occupies stall 220 at

South Melbourne Market selling unique, sustainable and surprising homewares,

accessories and great gifts made predominantly from materials that no longer

have a place in our lives. Most items are one of a kind and made in Melbourne,

however others are also sourced all over the world from creative individuals who

hold the same reinventing nature as White Moose. For more information, please

visit WWW.SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU.

We l ve ...

For information on being featured in our monthly ‘We Love’ section, please contact Lisa Guglielmino on 0425 145 806 or email [email protected].

Competition... For your chance to win a copy of Donna Hay’s latest cookbook The New Classics, visit our website at melbourne.gram.net.au and enter the code word CLASSICS. Entries close at 5pm (AEDT), 18 December 2013.

WINDONNA

HAY’S LATEST COOKBOOK‘THE NEW CLASSICS’

ALLURE COFFEE YOGHURTNewly released Allure real coffee yoghurt by Tempo is made

to a traditional ‘pot set’ European recipe, using only fresh milk,

live culture and coffee.

Recently awarded a Silver Medal by the Dairy Industry

Association of Australia, this coffee yoghurt is one of eight

unique flavours, all of which are made to the highest quality,

are creamy and taste absolutely delicious. They are made

using mouth-watering fruits and flavours, and are all gluten

free, non-GM and made from fresh hormone-free milk. Tempo

is a growing boutique company. Its operations may have

expanded, but its acute attention to detail and quality hasn’t

changed at all. Tempo still creates all of its products as if

they were made in a home kitchen. The company only uses

fresh milk, and there are never any milk powders or modified

solids added. “When they say real, they mean real!” For more

information, please visit WWW.TEMPOFOODS.COM.AU or

email [email protected].

PERSONAL CLASSES WITH A MASTER BUTCHERGary McBean knows meat and he knows it well. A fourth generation butcher who

grew up in a butcher shop, Gary is a Master Butcher who appeared on the latest

season of MasterChef.

He also has a passion for teaching others the skills required to break down their

own meat and choose the most suitable cuts for cooking. Gary’s enthusiasm for

doing the job the right way and teaching others from his many years of experience

is obvious. “If you want to get the best results from your cooking, start with the

best ingredients, prepared the correct way, and you’ll get the outcome you’re

looking for,” he says.

Gary’s Quality Meats now has gift vouchers available for butchery classes that are

hosted by Gary himself – a perfect Christmas gift for any foodie. See the selection

of available classes at WWW.ORGANICBUTCHERMELBOURNE.COM. Gary’s Quality

Meats is located at Shop 515, Prahran Market. Call 9826 0815.

GREAT

CHRISTMAS

GIFT IDEA

What’s OnCHRISTMAS COFFEE & CHEER BINDLEA gift concept to be cherished, as it takes the mania out

of Christmas gift giving. No more pounding the pavement

for gifts that then need to be wrapped and posted.

These exquisite essentials for the festive season are

already gift‑boxed with Bindle’s signature wrapping, and

delivery is included in one seamless online operation. The

contents are also locally designed and made and Bindle

has excelled at sourcing the best. A sliver of the Trentham

Tucker Panforte is the perfect accompaniment to an

espresso made from locally roasted Axil coffee beans,

served in a ceramic cup from the Robert Gordon barista

range. In return, your gift from Bindle this Christmas will

be more time to be spent with friends.

For more information, please visit WWW.BINDLE.COM.AU

or email [email protected].

ORDERMATE’S WAITRESS OF THE MONTHThe Quarter is one of the bustling restaurants

on iconic Degraves Street. Since its reopening

in March this year, it has been the perfect spot

to watch the colourful characters of Melbourne

while enjoying a cappuccino accompanied by

a slice of one of their signature cakes. Natalie

Powell has been chosen to be OrderMate’s

Waitress of the Month for her fun loving aura

and capability to handle a busy shift. She

describes her feelings of the staff dynamics

as being like “one big family”. She explains

that the tight bond she has with the owners

and staff is what has kept her there for over

a year. On her nights off Natalie’s poison of

choice is a glass of Jameson with ice and a

dash of water – Cheers to Natalie! For more

information, call 1300 667 067 or visit

WWW.ORDERMATE.COM.AU.

TWEET, TWEET!@MelbFoodFiles: Big thanks to @GRAMmagazine for the tickets to @tastemelbourne today! Perfect day for it with my little sis :)

> 06 NOVEMBER – 26 FEBRUARY 2013Queen Victoria Night Market

Wednesdays 5pm‑10pm

Corner Elizabeth and Victoria

Streets

More info: www.qvm.com.au

> 28 NOVEMBER - 19 DECEMBER 2013Kris Kringle Night Market

Thursdays 5.30pm – 10pm

Northcote Town hall

More info:

www.northcotetownhall.com.au

> 01 – 22 DECEMBER 2013Ben & Jerry’s Openair Cinema

South Beach Reserve, St Kilda

More info:

www.openaircinemas.com.au

> 03 DECEMBER 2013Square Dinner

Federation Sqaure

More info: www.fedsquare.com/

events/square‑dinner

> 07 DECEMBER 2013 Ales on the Ovens Craft

Beer Festival

Wangaratta Showgrounds

More info:

www.alesontheovens.com.au

> 24 DECEMBER 2013Christmas Eve Dinner at The Point

Aquatic Drive, Albert Park Lake

More info:

www.thepointalbertpark.com.au

For more upcoming events, please

visit melbourne.gram.net.au.

THE WINESMITHSBringing a fresh and modern approach to the retro cask

wine, The Winesmiths has released four wine varietals in

convenient two litre boxes – Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay,

Tempranillo and Shiraz. Made in the Barossa, each wine

features 100 per cent South Australian grapes and is

packaged in an easy‑to‑carry cask comprised of 75 per cent

recycled materials. Once opened, the wine stays fresh for

over three weeks. RRP $18.99. For more information, please

visit WWW.THEWINESMITHS.COM.


NBHD NEANDERTHAL(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

21


Cuisine: breakfast/brunch, coffee, modern Australian

Overall impression: 8/10

Having opened in late 2012, NBHD Neanderthal is fast becoming one of

South Yarra’s favourite coffee haunts. The café is a collaboration between

two brothers, Nicholas and Dax Byrne and reflects their belief that good

food + good friends = good times. Having experienced a wonderful Sunday

brunch at NBHD Neanderthal, we think they’ve got the equation spot on.

Occupying an unassuming shop-front on Commercial Road, and inspired by

the music, cultures and people who surround them, the two brothers have

opened a refreshingly different café in the mould of an eclectically styled

clubhouse. Inside you will find an atmosphere that genuinely expresses

Nicholas and Dax’s personalities, and speaks of their creativity and journey

from humble beginnings.

While cold drip coffee has become a staple in the Melbourne coffee scene,

NBHD Neanderthal has gone several steps further with an Australian first

– cold brew coffee on nitro. The nitrogen charged cold brew ‘on tap’ is

poured from a beer tap and served tall over ice. The end result is a complex,

smooth, full-bodied brew with a bright juiciness, low acidity and a long

chocolate caramel finish – perfect as the weather heats up.

Given the passion Nicholas and Dax have for coffee, it is unsurprising that

their ‘regular’ coffees are also of the highest standard. Apart from the

excellent coffee, NBHD Neanderthal also serves up a delicious menu.

Salmon on rye with two poached eggs served with fresh spinach, ricotta,

salmon and beetroot infused hollandaise – the smoked salmon was fresh,

NBHD NEANDERTHAL153 Commercial Road, South Yarra. Ph: 9826 4880

ABOUT GASTROLOGY Gastrology is a Melbourne-based blog about food and other deliciously related things.

They travel around Melbourne and sometimes beyond, enjoying food and wine along

the way and reporting back to their readers.

WWW.GASTRO-LOGY.BLOGSPOT.COM.AU

Words and photos by Gastrology

NBHD NEANDERTHAL HAS GONE SEVERAL STEPS FURTHER WITH AN AUSTRALIAN FIRST – COLD BREW COFFEE ON NITRO. THE NITROGEN CHARGED COLD BREW ‘ON TAP’ IS POURED FROM A BEER TAP AND SERVED TALL OVER ICE.

22

the ricotta was creamy and the egg was perfectly poached. The creamy

runny egg yolk complemented the salty smoked salmon and the whole

dish was brought together by the beetroot infused hollandaise.

Slow braised lamb shanks served with mashed potato, beef jus and

topped with Persian fetta, pistachio crumble and baby micro herbs

– the lamb shanks were the highlight of our afternoon, combining

flawless texture with superlative flavours. Superbly slow braised, the

tender meat of the lamb shanks fell delicately off the bone. The subtle

pistachio crumble and mild Persian fetta melded stunningly with the

dreamy mash and jus.

Hotcakes with maple syrup and candy bacon – this dish wantonly

disregards the current trend toward healthy eating and, as a result, is

decadently delicious. Light hot cakes are drizzled with maple syrup and

adorned with thickly cut slices of candied pork belly.

The excellent coffee (including the Nitro cold brew coffee on tap),

the delicious menu and the authentically cool atmosphere of NBHD

Neanderthal means we cannot wait to come back.

After chatting with Nicholas and Dax, it is clear they are self-confessed

coffee geeks. But when it comes to coffee, being a geek is cool.


AKA SIRO(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

25


There’s something about Collingwood that seems to suit the Japanese

subculture in Melbourne. I can’t pinpoint it… but there’s this urban soul to the

area that fits very well, which could be why we’ve seen places like CIBI, Mina

No Ie and a few other fabulous Japanese style shops taking residence there.

A kind-hearted friend of mine, Castletime, hasn’t been featured in this blog

for years. Our last catch-up was two years ago. Back then, I was sad seeing

a good friend leave Melbourne. But he’s back now, and it shows how quickly

years pass by and how sometimes, good things come back into your life.

Neither of us are Japanese, but we’re fans of its culture and cuisine. So when

I suggested we catch up at Aka Siro, Castletime got as excited as I was.

I stumbled past this Japanese eatery about a year ago after brunching at

Mina No Ie across the road. It took me a year, but I’m finally here.

We both loved the detailed little touches in the Japanese café, from the rustic

wooden benches to the patterned blue cushions, the minimalistic wood-

framed windows, and the simple but appealing tableware and knick knacks

on the shelves and display cabinets. And as customers, we instinctively

added to the decorative touches here by placing on our spacious white

table, our much-loved geeky gadgets and my ‘Korean gangster’ sunglasses.

The lunch menu consists of a small selection of affordably priced Teishoku,

which is essentially a bento-like set meal (minus the bento box), where you

get a main dish with miso soup, salad and rice. For drinks, Castletime got a

fragrant roast brown rice green tea, while I had a sweet cup of homemade

warm lemonade.

Both Castletime and myself gravitated towards the fried tofu with sweet

potato, eggplant, shimeji mushrooms, simmer with spicy miso and dashi

stock – what’s there not to like about that? But I ended up choosing

something else so that we could share and sample more things. This dish

came with a tangy, slightly spicy sauce. And in a way, I was glad I ended up

not getting it because the sauce was on the gooey side.

The miso soups that came with our lunch sets were very good, served hot

and flavoursome with supple squares of wakame seaweed and delicious

pieces of good quality tofu. The salad was great too – simple, healthy and

tangy. We really liked the sweet-vinegary (grated carrot?) dressing.

Our lovely waitress mentioned they had tonkatsu (deep-fried crumbed

pork) on their menu as a special for five days only, so naturally I picked

that. It was pretty enjoyable – crispy with good flavour. Of course it doesn’t

compare with Gypsy & Pig’s kurobuta (Berkshire pork) offerings, but it came

pretty close to it. I liked how very generous they were with my serve of pork.

Castletime had to help me finish.

I had a very enjoyable lunch here. It is a comfortable place with lovely staff,

a bright and peaceful ambience, and a thoughtful menu with portion sizes

that don’t make you leave the place still hungry.

AKA SIRO 106 Cambridge Street, Collingwood. Ph: 9417 0886

ABOUT BRYANI’m an inquisitive foodie with an Asian palate. I love how food brings people together.

There is a story behind every meal and I’m constantly trying to find it. Please join my

Melbourne-based food journey and let’s get fat together.

WWW.FATBOO.COM

Words and photos by Fatboo

THE CHOICES ARE ENDLESS AT

CHEF’S HATwww.chefshat.com.au


YOUNG BLOODS DINER(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

27


Opening hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 7am-5pm

Back in the day when I first started eating out as an ‘adult’, one of the first

places I went to was this well schmancy place on Wollongong Harbour. In

those days decent eateries in the ‘Gong were few and far between so it was a

real treat, I don’t know – probably an anniversary or something. It was a three

course kinda night and I remember every dish that came out was miniature,

delectable and expensive. I also remember that by the time we got to dessert

I was quite full and utterly mesmerised at how this could possibly happen.

Through the years I’ve indulged in all from ye olde to nouvelle to the all-

you-can-eat buffet (and pretty much ate all I could, remember the parmesan

bread at Sizzler? Dark, dark days y’all). One of the biggest lessons you can

learn in life and food is that quantity is most definitely not quality and if you

can get both in one, brava – but rare.

Given it was pay day, I didn’t have to work and I was feeling hungry and

adventurous I headed off to the brand spanker Young Bloods Diner (YBD)

on Rose Street in Fitzroy. They had only been open for two weeks which is

ordinarily a dubious choice in my book – I believe it takes a good old month

for a place to really get into its groove, but the clincher was the parking spot

virtually right outside. Nothing makes you feel more special than being the

only one in a place so if you really want to nab a seat here, an early weekday

morning is your best bet. I can’t imagine what these folks have to contend

with on market days (YBD is the new baby of market owners Adam and

Christian Ferrante and is smack bang positioned at the entrance). The first

thing that hits you is the beautiful, bright, crisp décor – a mix of unfinished

concrete walls decorated with self portrait art works by Adam (this might

sound pretentious, but far from it – I would happily have one or two hanging

on my wall, maybe if I knew him a little better) and bright yellow subway tiles.

There is an upstairs, outdoor area that is covered but not walled – avoid in

hurricane conditions when the rain is falling sideways.

The menu is nice and neat like most breakfast offerings these days and chef

Sascha Randle’s signature dish is coddled eggs – straight up which is fine and

all but why would you choose plain when you can have confit duck or house

smoked salmon. Listen, if you are putting Ortiz anchovies on a menu then

you have already picked the dish out for me. Done. I ordered a house blend

coffee and read the Epicure (I know, clichéd or what) and waited.

Adam asked if I had had coddled eggs before which made me nervously

giggle. My mother and grandmother made coddled eggs when I was growing

up and it made me crazy – these two prominent women in my life clearly

could not make eggs. YBD’s Bloods coddled eggs are slow cooked in the

oven until just perfectly done; the matriarchal contingent in my family just

couldn’t be bothered to cook the damn eggs and cleverly passed them off

as coddled. No cigar mother, it would be a good 30 years until I could come

at these again.

Now the correlation between that seafood place in Wollongong and YBD

is that my dish, although quite small in stature, packed a pretty powerful

punch. I’m generally a salt freak but you are getting a nice balance of that

with the anchovies (the menu states ‘anchovy’ suggesting one – there were

at least three and given the price of Ortiz, generous) and shavings of sharp

parmesan. Served with two slices of thick Dench toast and garnished with

dressed greens, pretty darn perfect. Gluten free-o’s aren’t left out, YBD bakes

its gluten-free bread in-house. It was just enough, a nice change to leave an

establishment and not feel as though I have to go searching out additional

somethings to satiate hunger pangs.

Two weeks in and Young Bloods Diner seems to have a magnificent balance

of ambience, a simple clean menu and tremendously charming staff. Good

luck getting a table on a sunny Saturday market afternoon.

Nice meal and two lattes for under a redback? bingo.

YOUNG BLOODS DINER60 Rose Street, Fitzroy. Ph: 9419 3864

ABOUT THE PINK LEOPARDThe Pink Leopard is an heroic, moral cat with pink fur and the manners of an English aristocrat. She

only becomes flustered or angry at obtuse or offensive humans who try to disrupt her existence, or at

troublesome gadgets, rodents or insects. In most of her life, she stumbles into a difficult situation and

stoically endeavours to make the best of it. All the while cooking.

WWW.THE-PINK-LEOPARD.COM

Words and photos by The Pink Leopard

28


This week, The Hungry Babushka is going on a cultural food journey. From

last night’s (lingonberry-less) Swedish meatballs, tonight we move to the

Middle East with this beautiful dish that is served at the Healesville Hotel in

regional Victoria. With flavours inspired by Syrian cuisine, this chicken is the

perfect mid-week meal – quick and easy. But don’t mistake quick with bland.

The spices in this dish really pack a punch with big, bold flavours perfectly

mellowed out with a generous dollop of natural yoghurt.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

1½ tsp ground cumin

1½ tsp ground cinnamon

½ tsp ground turmeric

8 chicken thigh fillets

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

4cm piece ginger, grated

RECIPE: SYRIAN CHICKEN

ABOUT THE HUNGRY BABUSHKAI bake like a mofo, but I can’t possibly eat it all, so I’m a part-time treat-pusher.

WWW.THEHUNGRYBABUSHKA.COM

Recipe and photo by The Hungry Babushka

29

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 long red chilli, seeds removed, finely chopped

400g can chopped tomatoes

1 cup chicken stock

Small pinch saffron threads

½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted

3 thyme sprigs

⅓ cup currants

¼ bunch coriander leaves, roughly chopped

¼ bunch mint leaves, roughly chopped

Zest and juice from 1 lemon

Moghrabieh (giant Lebanese couscous), cooked to packet directions

Thick Greek-style yoghurt to serve

METHOD

Preheat oven to 180°C (160°C fan forced).

Combine the cumin, cinnamon and turmeric in a bowl. Season, then add chicken

and toss to coat.

Heat 1 tbsp oil in a casserole dish over medium-high heat. Add half the chicken

and cook, turning, for 5 minutes or until golden. Remove and set aside. Repeat

with remaining oil and chicken.

Add onion to casserole dish and cook for 2 minutes or until softened, over

medium heat. Add ginger, garlic and chilli, then cook for a further 30 seconds

or until fragrant. Add tomato, stock, saffron, cumin seeds and thyme, then cook,

scraping bottom of pan with a spoon, for 2 minutes. Return the chicken to the

casserole dish, then cover and transfer to the oven. Cook for 35 minutes or until

chicken is cooked through and tender.

Stir through currants, sprinkle over herbs, lemon zest and lemon juice, then serve

with moghrabieh and yoghurt.

A BAR ABOVEThe Mt View Hotel in Richmond has opened its brand new rooftop deck bar,

A Bar Above. With a fully refurbished outdoor bar and beer garden, the Bridge

Road establishment is set to become a prime summer drinking spot. The bar has

unparalleled 360 degree views of the Melbourne skyline, a brand new bar, and

is easily accessed from the city. The new cocktail menu has been developed by

Londoner Tim Simon and features several mouth watering house specialities. The

drinks list also features a clever mix of premium and craft beer, cider and wine.

70 BRIDGE ROAD, RICHMONDPH: 9428 3973 WWW.MTVIEWHOTEL.COM.AU

TUSCAN BARFor a delicious dinner, supper or after work/late night drinks, head to the Tuscan

Bar. Relax and unwind in the elegant restaurant and cocktail lounge or chill

out on the impressive rooftop bar. Enjoy Italian style tapas, mains, antipasti,

local and European cheeses and house made desserts, which are all beautifully

complemented with matching wines. Choose from a range of local and European

wines; Italian, contemporary and classic style cocktails; or boutique beers. Tuscan

Bar also hosts events, with cocktail style functions catering to both small and large

groups of up to 400 people – perfect for weddings, engagements, birthdays and

corporate events.

LEVEL 1 AND ROOFTOP, 79 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNEPH: 9671 3322 WWW.TUSCANBAR.COM.AU

Melbourne’s Rooftop Bars

THE LAUREL HOTELThe Laurel Hotel is a local tradition and

it has just reopened its rooftop for the

summer season with a new retractable

roof protecting you from the unpredictable

Melbourne weather. When in use, the

rooftop is 100 per cent water proof and

heated for those cold nights. As you walk

up the separate staircase entrance, you’ll

be able to hear the live local duo. Enjoy the

famous jugs of Sangria and Chombord and

a meal from the specialty rooftop menu

or the specials board. The rooftop is open

Thursday through to Sunday. Book a table

before you arrive.

289 MOUNT ALEXANDER RD, ASCOT VALEPH: 9370 5800WWW.LAURELHOTEL.COM.AU

31


FOWLES WINE Stone Dwellers Arneis 2013

Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria. RRP $21

I have noticed over the last decade or so that there is a concentration of grape

growers in central and north-eastern Victoria who have become adventurous

in their plantings. Especially with varieties hailing from Italy. It is fortunate

for us consumers who have even more options when going to our local wine

store. A bottle of this wine from the Strathbogie Ranges in central Victoria

landed in my lap recently and I was pretty eager to take a look as it was made

from the Arneis grape.

This particular white grape variety hails from north west Italy and is known

for its cleansing acidity, which gives you that lip-smacking effect after each

sip. The Stone Dwellers example made by Fowles winery in the Strathbogie

Ranges pays a fine tribute to the Arneis grape. This zippy little number has

delicate aromas of grapefruit, kiwis and white nectarine, that played nicely

against the subtle flavours of a Middle-Eastern flavoured roast chicken

I prepared. The palate is uber fresh with cleansing zesty citrus flavours,

balanced acidity, a hint of slipperiness to the texture and a spicy note at the

finish. For an Arneis, it also has particularly good length on the palate. In

summary, I refer to my partner who succinctly said the wine was ‘ultimately

a little too drinkable’.

Stockist: Contact cellar door directly at [email protected]

CRITTENDEN ESTATE Geppetto Cabernet Merlot 2012

Port Phillip, Victoria. RRP $23

One of the first Disney films I watched as a child was Pinocchio and as such, I

have always held a soft spot for anything related to the movie, even donkeys.

Crittenden Estate recently sent me their range of wines called Geppetto. To

take on the name of Geppetto, the wines are designed to be honest, not

overly complex and of good quality – something that Mister Geppetto, the

creator of Pinocchio, would have been proud of. Winemaker Rollo Crittenden

has succeeded in this task.

The Cabernet Merlot was my personal pick of the bunch, being a classic

blend of grapes that I grew up tasting with my father. This blend is 60 per

cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 40 per cent Merlot and spent three weeks

on skins prior to maturing in older French barriques. The wine pours as a

beautiful, deep purple and black hue, with aromas of cassis, spice, plum and

red liquorice emanating from the glass. The palate has dominating flavours

of blackcurrant and woody herbs, complemented by a medium to full tannin

profile. As a wine from the 2012 vintage, the overall effect is dark, blackberry

fruits at the fore with hints of vanilla and spice presenting themselves at the

finish. The range of Geppetto wines are well worth seeking out for quality/

value purposes, each with their own little critter on the front label. You will

identify the Cabernet Merlot by the chook.

Stockist: Carwyn Cellars in Thornbury

LUIS CAÑAS Crianza 2008

Rioja, Spain. RRP $35

Bodegas Luis Cañas is a large family-owned winery dating back to 1928 and

located in the heart of the renowned Rioja wine region. Rioja is famous for

wines made from the red Tempranillo grape and this is exactly what Luis

Cañas has created here. Crianza means that the wine has spent one year in

oak barrels. In the case of this wine, it also spent another year maturing in

tank prior to bottling.

Many years ago I was once referred to as the Tempranillo Goddess at a winery I

worked at because during the harvest, it was my role to look after all the little

experimental batches of Tempranillo. Apparently the lads thought I needed

a fancy name for such a task. Having said that, I am far from an expert when

it comes to Tempranillo, but I do enjoy tasting the different styles Spain has

to offer. The Crianza from Luis Cañas pours with a deep burgundy and brick

red hue. The aromas are super dark fruited – think black cherry and black

plums – with hints of earthy spices like clove and pepper. In the mouth it has

no fruit sweetness and instead offers savoury elements like black olive and

a bitter chocolate finish on medium to full strength drying tannins. Different

and interesting? Yes. Enjoy this dark expression of Tempranillo over the next

few years with all manners of grilled meats.

Stockist: King & Godfree, Carlton

WINE REVIEWS

ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZOLa Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries

throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine

and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening, drinking

good vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).

WWW.LADONNADELVINO.COM

Words and photos by Krystina Menegazzo

FOR ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES, PLEASE CALL Lisa Guglielmino on 0425 145 806 or email [email protected]

WHAT’S

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11437

www.organicbutchermelbourne.comShop 515 Prahran Market, 163 Commercial Road, South Yarra | Ph 03 9826 0815

• Leg hams - full & half• Legs of pork• Pork loins boned

& rolled• Racks of pork

• Pork belly• Pork shoulder boned

& rolled• QA certified ‘free range’

Berkshire pork

ORDERNOW FOR

CHRISTMASlimited stock available

Our hams are lightly smoked and baked, full of flavour and slightly marbled. They are free from growth hormones and antibiotics, and guaranteed to be succulent, juicy and very delicious. Christmas will not be the same without it.

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GRAM Magazine: November 2013 // Edition 34