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1
GOVERNMENT OF INDIA
GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS JOURNAL NO.22
APRIL, 2008/ Chaitra-1 SAKA 1929
2
vkf/kdkfjd lwpuk,¡
fo"k; % HkkSxksfyd min'kZu eky ¼iathdj.k vkSj laj{k.k½ fu;e 2002 ds fu;e
41¼1½ ds v/khu ;g lwfpr fd;k tkrk gSA
1- fu;e 41¼1½ ds vko';drk ds vuqlkj] ;g lqfpr fd;k tkrk gSS fd vizSy 1
2008@&pSrz 01 1929 fnuka fdr HkkSxksfyd min'kZu if=dk dk laLdj.k
la[;k 22] fnlacj 24 2007 ls turk dks miyC/k djk;k tkrk gSA
2- fu;e 41¼1½ ds vko';drk ds vuqlkj] ;g lqfpr fd;k tkrk gSS fd twu 1 2008@&T;s"B 11 1929 fnuka fdr HkkSxks fyd min'kZu if=dk dk laLdj.k
la[;k 23] fnlacj 24 2007 ls turk dks miyC/k djk;k tkrk gSA
OFFICIAL NOTICE
1. As per the requirement of Rule 41(1), it is informed that the issue No.22 of the
Geographical Indication Journal dated 1 st April 2008 / Chaitra- 1 Saka 1929 has been
made available to the public from 24th December 2007.
2. As per the requirement of Rule 41(1), it is informed that the issue No.23 of the
Geographical Indication Journal dated 1st June 2008 / Jyaistha- 11 Saka 1929 has been
made available to the public from 24th December 2007.
3
HkkSxksfyd min'kZu vkosnu fooj.k%
HkkSxksfyd min'kZu
vkosnu la[;k
HkkSxksfyd min'kZu ds uke
oxZ Ekky
1 nkftZfyax ¼oMZ½ 30 Pkk;
2 nkftZfyax ¼yksxks½ 30 Pkk;
3 vkjUeqyk /kkrq dk¡p 20 /kkrq dk vkbuk
4 ikspeiYyh bDdr 24
25
27
oL= rFkk oL= eky] csM vkSj Vscy doj
oL=] ixMh
dkisZV] #eky] dEcy vkSj pVkbZ
Q'kZ dks vkoj.k djus dh oLrq
5 Lksye oL= 24 oL= rFkk oL= eky
6 i;Uuwj ifo=k fjax 14 xguk
7 pansjh lkMh 24 lkfM+;ka
8 lksykiqj 24 pknj
4
G.I.Application
No.
Name of Geographical Indication Class Goods
1 Darjeeling (Word) 30 Tea2 Darjeeling (Logo) 30 Tea3 Aranmula Kannadi 20 Metal Mirror
4 Pochampally Ikat
24
2527
Textile & Textile Goods, Bed and Table Cover. Clothing, Headgear. Carpets, Rugs, Mats, Mattings, Materials for covering floors
5 Salem Fabric 24 Textile and Textile Goods
6 Payyannur Pavithra Ring 14 Jewellary7 Chanderi Saree 24 Sarees8 Solapur Chaddar 24 Chaddars
9 Solapur Terry Towel 24 Textile Piece Goods – Terry Towel
10 Kotpad Handloom Fabric 24 Textile and Textile Goods
11 Mysore Silk
2324
25
Raw Silk Yarn Textile and Textile Goods including SareesReadymade garments, made ups, ties
12 Kota Doria 24
25
Textile and Textile GoodsClothing
13 Mysore Agarbathi 3Agarbathi / Oodabathi (Incense / Joss Sticks)
14 Basmati Rice 30 Rice
15 Kancheepuram Silk 24 & 25
24: Textile and Textile Goods 25: Clothing including Sarees & Rumal
16 Bhavani Jamakkalam
24
27
Textile and Textile GoodsCarpets, Rugs, Mats & Matting
17 Navara – The Grain of Kerala 30 Rice
18 Mysore Agarbathi “Logo”` 3 Agarbathi / Oodabathi
5
9 lksykiqj rsjh rkSfy;k 24 oL= rqdM+k eky & rsjh rkSfy;k
10 dksVikM gFkdj?kk oL= 24 oL= rFkk oL= eky
11 eSlwj flYd 23 24 25
dPpk js'keh /kkxk oL= rFkk oL= eky ds lkFk lkM+h rS;kj diM+s] cus gq,] VkbZl
12 dksVk nksfj;k 24 25
oL= rFkk oL= eky oL=
13 eSlwj vxjcÙkh 3 vxjcÙkh@mncÙkh 14 cklerh pkoy 30 Pkoy 15 dkaphiqje flYd 24o25 24: oL= rFkk oL=
eky( 25: iks'kkd ds varxZr lkM+h vkSj #eky
16 Hkokuh teDdkye 24 27
oL= rFkk oL= eky dkisZV] dEcy] pVkbZ vkSj pVkbZ eky
17 uokjk & dsjy dk nkuk 30 Pkoy 18 eSlwj vxjcÙkh
^^yksxks** 3 vxjcÙkh@mncÙkh
6
7
19 Kullu Shawl 24 Textile and Textile Goods 20 Bidar
6
2134
Boxes, Statues, Statuettes, Busts made of Metal Flower Vass, Trays Cigar Can and Ashtrays made of Metal
21 Madurai Sungudi Saree 24 & 25 Textile and Textile Goods
22 Orissa Ikat
23
24
25
Yarn & Threads Tied and Dyed for Textile Use Textile & Textile Goods Clothing
23 Channapatna Toys and Dolls 28 Toys and Dolls
24 Mysore Rosewood Inlay
19
20
27
28
Doors, Partition Screens & Veneers of WoodStatues, Statutes of Wood & Furniture’sWall Hangings of Wood Jhoolas (Swings) & Toys
25 Kangra Tea 30 Tea 26 Coimbatore Wet Grinder 7 Wet Grinders 27 Phulkari 26 Phulkari Embroidery
28 Kalamkari
24
25
27
Textile and Textile Goods not included in other Classes; Bed and Table Cover and all other goods falling in Class 24
Clothing and all other goods falling in Class 25 Furnishings, Bags, Covers, Cloth Envelopes, Handicraft Items, Wall Panels, Wall Hangings, Wall Paintings
29 Mysore Sandalwood Oil 3 Sandalwood Oil 30 Mysore Sandal Soap 3 Mysore Sandal Soap
31 Kasuti Embroidery – Karnataka 26 Kasuti Embroidery –
Karnataka7
19 dqYyq 'kky 24 oL= rFkk oL= eky
20 fcnj 6
21
34
cDls] ewfrZ;k¡] NksVh ewfrZ;k¡] /kkrq ds cus
v/kZizfrek
Qwynkuh] /kkrq ;k ydM+h dh Fkkyh
flxkj dsu vkSj /kkrq ds cus ,s'k~Vªs
21 enqjS lqaxqMh ¼;k½ tqUuMh lkM+h
24 o 25 oL= vkSj oL= eky
22 mM+hlk bDdr 23
24
25
oL= cukus ds fy, cka/kk vkSj jaxk x;k
;kuZ vkSj /kkxs
oL= vkSj oL= eky
oL=
23 pUuiVuk f[kykSuk vkSj xqfM+;k
28 f[kykSuk vkSj xqfM+;k
24 eSlwj jksloqM bUys
19
20
27
28
njokts] insZ vkSj ydM+h dh iryh rg
ydM+h dh eqfrZ rFkk NksVh ewfrZ vkSj
QuhZpj
ydM+h ds nhokj esa yVdk;s tkus okyh phtsa
>wyk vkSj f[kykSus
8
32 Mysore Traditional Paintings 16 Mysore Traditional Paintings (Mysore)
33 Coorg Orange 31 Horticulture Product - Orange
34 Mysore Betel Leaf 31 Horticulture Product – Betel Leaf
35 Nanjangud Banana 31 Horticulture Product – Banana
36 Palakkadan Matta Rice 30 Rice37 Madhubani Paintings 16 Paintings38 Jamnagar – MS 4 Motor Spirit (Petrol)
39 Jamnagar – ATF 4 Aviation Turbine Fuel (Kerosene Type)
40 Krishna Godavari Gas 4 Fuel
41 Jamnagar – LPG 4 Liquified Petroleum Gas (LPG)
42 Jamnagar – HSD 4 High Speed Disel 43 PISCO 33 Alcoholic Beverage
44 Kondapalli Bommallu (Toys)
16
20
27
28
Stationery, Artist Materials, Instructing & Teaching Materials; Printing Blocks Goods (not included inOther classes) of WoodWall hangings (non-textile) Games, Playthings, sporting articles not included in other classes; decoration of Christmas tree
45 Poddar Diamond 14 Jewellary46 Kashmir Pashmina 24 Textiles47 Thanjavur Paintings 16 Paintings48 Kashmir Sozani Craft 26 Embroidery 49 Malabar pepper 30 Pepper
50 Allahabad Surkha 31 Horticulture Product Guava
51 Kani Shawl 25 Shawl
52 Nakshi Kantha 19,20,24&25
Wall panels and more; Bolsters & Pillows; Throws, Cushions, Bed Spreads, Runners, Duvet Covers, Lights Quilts (Single & Double), Baby quilts,
9
25 dkaxMk pk; 30 pk;
26 dks;EcÙkwj osV xzSaMj
7 osV xzSaMj
27 Qqydkjh 26 Qqydkjh d<+kbZ
28 dyedkjh 24
25
27
oL= vkSj oL= eky vU; oxZ jfgr] oxZ 24 es 'kfey csM vkSj Vscy vkoj.k
oxZ 25 es 'kfey oL= vkSj vU; eky
ltkoV dk lkeku] FkSyk] vkoj.k] oL= vkoj.k] gLrf'kYi oLrq,¡] nhokj esa yxk;s tkus okys iSuy] nhokj ij Vkaxus okyh oLrq] nhokj esa yxk;s tkus okys fp=
29 eSlwj lSaMyoqM rsy
3 lSaMyoqM rsy
30 eSlqj panu lkcqu
3 eSlqj panu lkcqu
31 dlqrh dlhnkdkjh&dukZVd
26 dlqrh dlhnkdkjh&dukZVd
32 eSlwj ikjEifjd fp=dyk
16 eSlwj ikjEifjd fp=dyk ¼eSlwj½
33 dwxZ ukjaxh 31 ckxckuh mRikn&ukjaxh
34 eSlwj iku iÙkh 31 ckxckuh mRikn&iku iÙkh
35 uatuxqM dsyk 31 ckxckuh mRikn&dsyk
10
Yardage for Curtains, Apparel Fabrics, Bath Linen, Bath Sheets (Towel), Bathroom furnishings, Bathroom linen, Bean Bag Covers, Blanket Covers, Bed Covers/ Spreads, Bed Sheets, Blackout blinds (outdoor) or textile, Coasters (Table Linen), Cushion Covers, Pillow Covers, Toilet Seat Covers, Curtain Fabrics & Materials, Curtain Linings, Curtain covers, Pillow Covers, Toilet Seat Covers, curtain Fabrics & Materials, Curtain Covers, Pillow Covers, Toilet Seat Covers Curlin Linings, Curtain Holders of textile material, Curtain Loops made of textile material, Curtain for windows, Dinner Napkins, Dish Cloths for drying, Dish Mats, Door Curtains, Drapes, Drapes in the nature of curtains, Drink coasters of table linen, Drink mats of table linen, Fabric Covers for kitchen appliances, Fabrics for interior decoration, Fabrics for use as linings in clothing, Hand Towels, Handkerchiefs, Wall Hangings, Horizontal slatted blinds (outdoor) of textile, Horizontal Venetian blings (outdoor) of textile, Household cloths for
11
36 ikyDdkM eê pkoy
30 pkoy
37 e/kqcuh fp=dyk 16 fp=dyk
38 tkeyxj&,e-,l
4 eksVj LihjhV ¼isVªksy½
39 tkeuxj&,-Vh-,Q
4 ,oh,'ku Vjckbu ¶;wy ¼dsjksflu izdkj½
40 —".kk xksnkojh xSl
4 ¶;wy
41 tkeuxj&,y-ih-th-
4 fyDohQkbM isVªksfy;e xSl ¼,y-ih-th-½
42 tkeuxj&,p-,l-Mh
4 gkbZ LihM Mht+y
43 fildks 33 e|lkj is;
44 dksUMiYyh cksEeyq
16
20
27
28
LVs'kujh] dkjhxj oLrq] funsZ'k vkSj f'k{k.k
oLrq ( fizfUVax CykWd
ydM+h dk eky ¼vU; oxZ
es 'kkfey ugh½
nhokj ij Vkaxus okyh oLrq] ¼xSj&oLrz½ [ksy] [ksy oLrq] [ksy inkFkZ vU; oxZ es 'kkfey ugha( fØlel isM+ dk ltkukA
45 Iksíkj ghjk 14 vkHkw"k.k
46 d'ehj i'ehuk 24 oL=
12
drying glasses, Household linen, Infants bed Linen, Jewellery sachets, Kitchen 21 sachets, Kitchen furnishings, Kitchen Linen, Kitchen Towel Mosquito Nets, Net Curtains, Piano Covers, Quilt Covers, Table Runners, Sofa Covers, Seat covers for use in automobiles, Table covers, Table Linen, Table Mats, Table Napkins, Textile articles for kitchen use; Sarees, upattas & Scarfts, Aprons, Babies’ bibs, Casual wear, Casual jackets for women/men, Casual shirts, Cloths, Dressing gowns, Dresses, Eye masks, Head shawls, House robes, House Coats, Kaftans, Ladies long Scarves, Ladies Wear, Quilted jackets, Sandals, Sarongs, Shawls, Silk scarves, Silk Ties.
53 Silver Filigree 6,8,14,18,20,
26&28
Key Chains; Hand tools and Implements (Hand Operated) Cutlery, Side Arms, Razors; Bangles, Brooches, Bracelets, Arm Bands, Ear Rings, Ear Tops, Coatpins, Necklaces, Chains, Tie Pins, Buttons, Paan-Dan, Attar-Dan, Cigarette Boxes,
13
47 ratkowj fp=dyk 16 fp=dyk 48 d'ehj lkst+kuh
f'kYi 26 d<+kbZ
49 Ekkykckj dkyh fepZ
30 dkyh fepZ
50 bykgkckn lw[kZ 31 Ckkxokuh mRikn ve:n
51 dkuh 'kkWy 25 'kkWy
52
ud'kh dakrk
19]20]24 vkSj 25
nhokj ij Vaxus okys fp= vkSj vf/kd] rfd;k vkSj rfd;] Fkzksl dq'ku] fcNkou] nwosV doj] c kh] xík¼,d ;k nks½] f'k'kq dk xík] inksZa ds fy, ;kMsZt] oL=ksa ds /kkxs ugkus dk vLrj] ugkus dk 'khV ¼rkSfy;k½ ckFk:e ds lkeku] ckFk:e dk ykbfuu] chu FkSyh dk doj] jtkbZ dk [kksy] pknj] fcNkou oL=] inkZ¼ckgjh½] eksVk ¼esu ykbfuu½ dq'ku [kksy] rfd;s dk [kksy] Vk;ysV 'khV dk doj] inkZ dk diM+k] inkZ dh ykbfuu] djfyu ykbuu inkZ dks yVdk;s tkus oL= dk gksYMj] inZs dks yVdk;s tkus okyk Qkan tks diM+s dk cuku gksrk gS A f[kM+fd;ksa ds fy, inkZ ] jkrsa ds [kkus dk usifdu] crZu iksaNus dk diM+k]
14
Ornamental Boxes, Kum-Kum Boxes, Perfume Tins, Leaf Patterned Purses,Tea Trays, Key Chains, Other Contemporary Monumental Replicas Like Charminar, Hightech city, Globe etc., And Idols of Gods and Goddesses; Purses and Hand Bags; Furniture, Mirrors, Picture,Frames;Brooches, Hair Pins, Tie Pins and Buttons; Decorations for Christmas Trees.
54 Alleppey Coir 27Coir Mats, Mattings, Carpets, Rugs and Geotextiles.
55 Muga Silk 23,24&25
Raw Silk Yarn, Textile and Textile Goods Including Sarees, Mekhela-Chadar,Readymade Garments, Made ups, Ties.
56 Tellicherry Pepper 30 Pepper
57 Coconut shell crafts of Kerala 20Coconut shell products of Kerala
58 Screw pine crafts of Kerala 27
Screw pine Craft of Kerala, Mats, Wall hangings, Shopping bags, Parasols, Caparisons, bed mats, boxes, purses, tea coasters, prayer mats.
59 Maddalam of Palakkad (Kerala) 15Maddalam – a percussion instrument of Kerala.
60 Ganjifa cards of Mysore (Karnataka) 16 Ganjifa playing cards falling under class 16.
61 Navalgund Durries 24 Woven Durries of Navalgund
15
c kZu ds esV] njokts ds insZ] insZ dks yVdk;s tkus okyk] Xykl j[kus okys esV dk ykbfuu] est ij Xykl ds fy, j[kk tkus okyk esV ] jlksbZ ?kj ds leku ds fy, oL= doj ?kj ds Hkhrjh Hkkx dh ltkoV ds diM+s ] diM+s ds fy, iz;qDr gksus okyk ykbfuu ] gkFk dk rkSfy;k] :eky] nhokj ij Vkaxh tkus okyh oLrq,¡] lh/kh ydhjinkZ] dkap dks iksaNs tkus okyk diM+k] ?kjsyw ykbfuu] foLrj dk ykbfuu ] vkHkw"k.k dh FkSyh] jlksbZ ?kj dks ltkus dh oLrqvksa ] jlksbZ ?kj dk rkSfy;k ] ePNj nkuh ] tkyhnkj insZa] fi;kuska ds doj] xís dk [kksy] est dk [kksy] lksQs dk [kksy] xkfM+;ksa ds Vsfcy ij yxus okyk doj] est dk doj] jlksbZ esa iz;qDr gskus okys oLrq,¡] lkM+h] nqiêk vkSj LdkQZ] Åijh tkek] cPpksa dk fccl] jkstejkZ esa igus tkus okys diM+s] L=h;ksa vkSj
16
62 Karnataka Bronze Ware 6
Karnataka bronze ware – Religious idols, temple bells.and vessels, lamps and other ritual ware.
63 Thanjavur Art Plate 14 Thanjavur Art plate falling
64 Swamimalai Bronze Icons 6 Bronze Icons65 Temple jewellery of Nagercoil 14 Jewellery66 Blue Pottery of Jaipur 21 Pottery67 Molela Clay Idols 21 Molela Clay Idols 68 Kathputlis of Rajasthan 28 Kathputlis
69 Mysore Jasmine 31 Horticulture Commodity
70 Udupi Jasmine 31 Horticulture Commodity
71 Hadagali Jasmine 31 Horticulture Commodity
72 Alleppey Green Cardamom 30 Spices73 Applique (Khatwa) Work of Bihar 24 & 26 Textile & Embroidery
74 Sujini Embroidery work of Muzzaffarpur District in Bihar 24 & 26
Bedspreads, wall hanging cushion & Bolster covers / Saris, Dupattas & Kurtas
75 Sikki Grass Products of Bihar 20Utilitarian & Ornamental products from sikki grass
76 Ilkal sarees 24 Ilkal Sarees 77 Molakalmuru Sarees 24 Molkalmuru sarees 78 Coorg Green Cardamom 30 Agricultural Products 79 Chamba Rumal 24 Textiles
17
iq:"kksa ds jkstejkZ ds tSdsV] jkstejkZ ds deht] diM+s Mªsflax xkmu] oL=] vk¡[kksa esa yxk;s tkus okyk ekLd] flj esa yxk;s tkus okys 'kkWy ] ?kj esa igus tkus okyk tkek] ?kj esa igus tkus okyk dksV] fL=;ksa ds yacs LdkQZ] L=h ds oL= xeZ tSdsV] pIiy] lsjksaXl] 'kkWy] js'eh LdkQZ] js'eh VkbZ
53
flYoj fQyhxjh
6]8]14]18]20]26vkSj28
Pkkoh dk psbu% gkFk }kjk iz;qDr vkStkj] pepk] cktwcan] Nqjk] pwM+h] fL=;ksa ds diM+ksa esa yxk;s tkus okyk fiu] dM+k] cktwcan] Ckkyh] dku ds cwans] dksV fiu] usdysl] psSu] VkbZ fiu] cVu] iku�nku] vVj�nku] flxjsV ckWDl] vkHkw"k.k dk cDlk ] dqe�dqe dh fMfc;k] b= dk fVu] if k;ksa ls ltk gqvk ilZ] pk; ds Vsª] dh psbu] vU; ledkyhu Lekjd dk izfr:i tSls pkjehukj] mPprduhd 'kgj] Xyksc vkfn] vkSj nsoh vkSj nsorksvksa
18
G. I.
Application No. Name of Geographical
Indication Class Goods
80 Dharwad Pedha 29 Milk Products
81 Pokkali Rice 30 Rice
82 Bastar Iron Craft 6 & 21
Flower Vase, Candle Stand, Photo Frame, Hanging Lamp, Table Lamp, Diya Stands, Key Holder, Door Handle, Divwan, Cot, Centre Table, Chairs, Garden items, Arch etc
83 Bastar Dhokra 6 & 21
Idols of Local deities, Idols of Nature and human forms, Products, Candle stand, Door handle, Photo frame, Mirror frame, Flower Vase, Mobile Holder, Face Mask, Water Jug, Key Rings, Ash Tray, etc.
84 Bastar Wooden Craft 20
Decorative Products: Gods and Goddesses, Wall Panels, Wild Animals and Birds, Carving Scenes – Village Life, Tribal Cultures, Tribal Masks, Tribal Folk Dances with Tribal Motif etc. Furniture with Tribal Motif: Diwan, Sofa Set, Dressing Table, Mirror Frame, Dining Set, Chairs, Doors and Door Panels etc. Daily Use Products: Combs, Hairpins, Knives and Other Kitchen, Accessories, Tobacco Cases, Musical Instruments, Jewellery Boxes etc.
85 Monsooned Malabar 30 Coffee
86 Pipli Applique Work 27 Wall Hangings made of textiles
87 Konark Stone Carving 19 Building Materials, Non-metallics and
19
dh ewfrZ] ilZ vkSj FkSyh] ?kj dh oLrq,¡] niZ.k] fp= Qzse % fL=;ksa ds diM+ksa esa yxus okyk fiu] ckyksa esa yxk;k tkus okyk fiu] VkbZ dk fiu vkSj cVu% fdzlel ds isM+ dh ltkoV dh oLrq,¡
54 vYysIih dkW;j 27 Ukkfj;y ds tVs dk esV ] dkisZV] dacy vkSj HkkSxksfyd oL=
55 Ekqxk js'ke 23]24 vkSj 25 dPpk js'eh ;kuZ] oL= vkSj oL= eky] ftlds varxZr lkM+h ] es[kyk�pknj] cus ;k flys gq, diM+s] VkbZ A
56 Rksyhpsjh dkyh fepZ
30 dkyh fepZ
57 dsjy dk Ukkfj;y [kksy f'kYi
20 dsjy ds Ukkfj;y ds [kksy dk
mRikn] 58 dsjy ds nsonkj
ds uDdk'kh dk f'kYi]
27 dsjy ds nsonkj ds uDdk'kh dk f'kYi] eSV] nhokj esa yxkbZ tkus okyh oLrq,¡] /kwi dh Nrjh] ?kksM+s dk vksgkj] fcLrj dh pVkbZ] cDl ] pk; j[kus dk eSV] iwtk dk eSV
20
Pipes for Building, Asphalt Pitches and Bitumen, Non-metallic Transportable Buildings, Monuments, not of metal, Stone Carving
88 Puri Pattachitra 27
Carpets, Rugs, Mats and Mattings, Linoleum and other materials for covering, existing floors; Wall hanging (Non Textile)
89 Budhiti bell & brass craft 6 Bell & Brass Metal Craft Products
90 Machilipatnam Kalamkari 24, 25 & 27
Textiles and Textile Goods, Clothing, Carpets, Rugs, Mats and Matting, Linoleum and other materials for covering existing floors; Wall Hangings (Non Textile)
91 Nirmal Toys and Crafts 20 & 28 Wooden Toys: Mirrors, Picture Frames Wood : Handicrafts
92 Arni Silk 24 & 25 Textiles and Textile Goods
93 Covai Cora Cotton 24 & 25 Textiles and Textile Goods
94 Salem Silk 24 & 25 Textiles and Textile Goods
95 E. I. Leather 18 Leather
96 Thanjavur Doll 28 Thanjavur Dolls (Toys)
21
59 ikyDdkM ¼dsjy½ dk eìye~
15 eìye~� dsjy dk ,d ctkus oky midj.k
60 eSlwj ¼dukZVd½ dk xaftQk dkMZ
16 oxZ 16 esa vkus okyk xaftQk [ksyus okyk dkMZ
61 uoyxqM njh 24 uoyxqM ds cqus gq, njh
62 dukZVd ds dkaL; dh oLrq,¡
6 dukZVd dk dkaL; eky�/kkfeZd ewfrZ] eafnj dh ?kaVh] c kh vkSj vU; /kkfeZd oLrq,¡ A
63 ratkowj dh dykRed Fkkyh
14 ratkowj dh dykRed Fkkyh
64 Lokeh eyS dh dkaL; dh oLrq,¡
6 dkaL; dh oLrq,¡
65 Ukkxjdksby ds eafnj ds vkHkw"k.k
14 vkHkw"k.k
66 t;iwj ds uhyh feêh dk crZu
21 feêh dk dke
67 eksysyk feV~Vh dh ewfrZ
21 eksysyk feV~Vh dh ewfrZ
68 jktLFkku dh dBiqryh
28 dBiqryh
69 eSlwj pesyh 31 ckx+ckuh oLrq
70 mMqih pesyh 31 ckx+ckuh oLrq
71 gMxyh pesyh 31 ckx+ckuh oLrq
72 vyIih gjk xeZelkyk
30 xeZ elkyk
22
G.I. App. No.
Name of Geographical Indication Class Goods
97 Leather Toys of Indore 18 Leather Toys
98 Bagh Prints of Dhar 24 Textile goods
99 Banaras Brocades and Sarees 23, 24, 25 & 26
Silk brocades, textile goods,silk sarees, silk jamdhani,jangla sarees,jamawar tanchoi sarees, tissue sarees,cut work saree,butidar sarees,etc.,silk embroidery sarees etc.
100 Sankheda Furniture 20 furniture
101 Agates of Cambay 14 Semi precious gemstones.
102 Datia and Tikamgarh Bell Metal Ware 6 Bell metal ware falling under
class 6
103 Kutch Embroidery 26 & 24 Embroidery and Textile goods
104 Santiniketan leather goods 18 Leather goods falling under class 18.
105 Nirmal Furniture 20 Furniture
106 Nirmal Paintings 16 & 20
Paintings, works of art framed and unframed and or for mounting on frames. Art works of wood, works of art of wood.
107 Andhra Pradesh Leather Puppetry
18, 27, & 28
Goods made of leather, wall hangings, games, playthings and toys.
108 Pipli Applique Craft 24
Traditional umbrella, Taras, wall hanging Batua letter box, ladies vanit bag, banners, cushion cover, door screen, money purse, money purse etc.
109 Naga Mircha 31 Chilli 110 Eathomozhy Tall Coconut 31 Coconut 111 Laxman Bhog Mango 31 Mango
112 Khirsapati Himsagar Mango 31 Mango
113 Fazli Mango 31 Mango
114 Mansooned Malabar Robusta Coffee 30 Coffee
115 Assam Tea 30 Tea
116 Nilgiri 30 Tea 23
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HkkSxksfyd min”kZu iathd`fr] ckSf)d lEink vf/kdkj Hkou] bUMfLVª;y ,LVsV] flM~dks vkj-,e-Mh- xksnke ,fj;k] th-,l-Vh-jksM] fx.Mh] psUuS & 600 032 ds dkÅaVj ij lHkh dk;Zfnolksa esa udn pqdkSrk Hkh fd;k tk ldrk gS A blds ckjs esa vfrfjDr tkudkjh dsfy,]
lgk;d iath;d HkkSxksfyd min’kZu] HkkSxksfyd min’kZu iathd`fr] ckSf)d lEink vf/kdkj Hkou] bUMfLVª;y ,LVsV] flM~dks vkj-,e-Mh- xksnke ,fj;k] th-,l-Vh-jksM] fx.Mh] psUuS & 600 032 ls laidZ djsa A nwjHkk’k % 22502091, 92 & 93 QSDl % 22502090E-mail : [email protected].
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29
PUBLIC NOTICE It is brought to the notice of all concerned that a priced publication of Geographical Indications Journal is available from July 2004. It would be a bimonthly publication. The cost of each Journal is Rs.150/- (Rupees One Fifty Only). The cost of the Annual Subscription is Rs.900 (Rupees Nine Hundred Only). There will be six issues annually. Interested parties who are desirous of subscribing the Annual Subscription for the above Journal may forward a Demand Draft which should be drawn in favour of “Registrar of Geographical Indications” Payable at Chennai. The public can also remit cash at the counter of Geographical Indications Registry, Intellectual Property Office Building, Industrial Estate, SIDCO RMD Godown Area, G.S.T Road, Guindy, Chennai – 600 032 on all working days. For any further information in this regard please contact:- The Assistant Registrar of Geographical Indications, Geographical Indications Registry, Intellectual Property Office Building, Industrial Estate, G.S.T Road, Guindy, Chennai – 600 032 Tel: 22502091, 92 & 93Fax No: 22502090 E-mail: [email protected].
Sd. ___________
(V. RAVI) Registrar of Geographical Indications
30
VÉÒ. B±É. +É´ÉänùxÉ xɨ¤É®ú 72 ¨ÉºÉɱÉÉ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷ EòÉ +É´Éän ùxÉ BEò {ÉnùÉlÉÇ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷ +Éè®ú +ʦÉEò®úhÉ ´ÉÉÊhÉVªÉ ´É =tÉäMÉ ¨ÉxjÉɱɪÉ) ¨ÉºÉɱÉÉ ¤ÉÉäb Ç÷ ´ÉÉÊhÉVªÉ É =tÉäMÉ ¨ÉÆjÉɱɪÉ, ºÉÖMÉxvÉ ¦É´ÉxÉ BxÉ. ½äþSÉ ¤ÉÉ<Ç-{ÉÉºÉ b÷É.{Éä.xÉ. 2277 {ÉɱÉÊ®ú´É]Âõ]õ¨É EòÉäÎSSÉxÉ-25 <Îhb÷ªÉÉ, ®úÊVɺ]õ®ú Eäò ¦ÉÉMÉ-B±É{Éä ½þ®úÒ <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ Eäò °ü{É ¨Éå {ÉÆVÉÒEò®úhÉ Eäò ʱÉB +É´ÉänùxÉ xÉÆ. 72 <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ Eäò ºÉxnù¦ÉÇ ¨Éå ¸ÉähÉÒ 30 EòÉä BiÉnÂù uùÉ ®úÉ ={ÉJÉhb÷ (1) JÉhb÷ 13, {ÉnùÉlÉÉç EòÒ ¦ÉÉèMÉÉäʱÉEò ºÉÆEäòiÉ ({ÉÆVÉÒEò®úhÉ ´É ºÉÆ®úIÉhÉ) +ÊvÉÊxÉªÉ¨É 1999 Eäò iɽþiÉ º ÉÒEÞòiÉ Ê´ÉYÉÉÊ{ÉiÉ ÊEòªÉÉ VÉÉiÉÉ ½èþ* +É´ÉänùEò : ¨ÉºÉɱÉÉ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷-BEò {ÉnùÉlÉÇ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷ +Éè®ú +ʦÉEò®úhÉ, ´ÉÉÊhÉVªÉ ´É =tÉäMÉ ¨ÉÆjÉÉ±ÉªÉ {ÉiÉÉ : ¨ÉºÉɱÉÉ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷ ´ÉÉÊhÉVªÉ É =tÉäMÉ ¨ÉÆjÉÉ±ÉªÉ ºÉÖMÉxvÉ ¦É´ÉxÉ BxÉ. BSÉ. ¤ÉÉ<{ÉɺÉ, b÷É. {Éä. ºÉÆ. 2277 {ɱÉÊ®ú´É]Âõ]õ¨É, EòÉäÎSSÉxÉ 25. Eäò |ÉÊiÉÊxÉÊvÉ : ¨ÉäºÉºÉÇ +ÉxÉxnù ´É +ÉxÉxnù Bb÷ ÉÉäEäò]õ }±Éè]õ xÉÆ. VÉÒB, B+É®ú ʴɱ±ÉÉ xɪÉÉ xÉÆ. 31, iÉҺɮúÉ ¨Éä<xÉ ®úÉäb÷, MÉÉxvÉÒ xÉÆMÉ®ú, +b÷ªÉÉ®ú, SÉäzÉè-600 020. ¦ÉÉèMÉÉä ʱÉEò ºÉÆEäòiÉ : B±É{{Éä OÉÒxÉ EòÉbÇ÷¨É¨É (<±ÉɪÉSÉÒ) ¸ÉähÉÒ : 30 {ÉnùÉlÉÇ : <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ
31
G.I. – APPLICATION NUMBER 72 Application is made by SPICES BOARD- A Commodity Board and agency under
the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Spices Board, Ministry of Commerce
And Industry, Sugandha Bhavan, N.H bye-pass, P.B. No.2277, Palarivattom,
Cochin 25, India, for registration in Part - A of the register of ALLEPPEY
GREEN Cardamom under Application No 72 in respect of Cardamom falling in
Class 30 is hereby advertised as accepted under sub-section (1) of section 13 of
Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
Applicant : Spices Board-A Commodity Board and agency under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry), Address : SPICES BOARD, Ministry of Commerce and Industry, SUGANDHA BHAVAN, N.H Bye-Pass, P.B. No.2277,
Palarivattom, Cochin 25
Represented by: M/s Anand and Anand, Advocates, Flat No.GA, AR Villa, New No.31, Third main road, Gandhi Nagar, Adayar, Chennai-600020 Geographical Indication : ALLEPPEY GREEN Cardamom Class : 30
32
(B) +É´ÉänùEò EòÉ xÉÉ¨É : ¨ÉºÉɱÉÉ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷-BEò {ÉnùÉlÉÇ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷ +Éè®ú +ʦÉEò®úhÉ, ´ÉÉÊhÉVªÉ ´É =tÉäMÉ ¨ÉÆjÉÉ±ÉªÉ Eäò iɽþiÉ (¤ÉÒ) {ÉiÉÉ : º{ÉÉ<ºÉäºÉ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷ ´ÉÉÊhÉVªÉ É =tÉäMÉ ¨ÉÆjÉÉ±ÉªÉ ºÉÖMÉxvÉ ¦É´ÉxÉ BxÉ. BSÉ. ¤ÉÉ<{ÉɺÉ, b÷É. {Éä. ºÉÆ. 2277 {ɱÉÊ®ú´É]Âõ]õ¨É, EòÉäÎSSÉxÉ 25. Eäò |ÉÊiÉÊxÉÊvÉ : ¨ÉäºÉºÉÇ +ÉxÉxnù ´É +ÉxÉxnù Bb÷ ÉÉäEäò]õ }±Éè]õ xÉÆ. VÉÒB, B+É®ú ʴɱ±ÉÉ xɪÉÉ xÉÆ. 31, iÉҺɮúÉ ¨Éä<xÉ ®úÉäb÷, MÉÉxvÉÒ xÉÆMÉ®ú, +b÷ªÉÉ®ú, SÉäzÉè-600 020. (ºÉÒ) ±ÉÉäMÉÉå Eäò BºÉÉäʺÉB¶ÉxÉ EòÒ ºÉÚSÉÒ =i{ÉÉnùEò / ºÉÆMÉ`öxÉ : |ÉÉlÉÇxÉÉ {É®ú |ɺiÉÖiÉ ÊEòªÉÉ VÉÉBMÉÉ /+ÊvÉEò®úhÉ (b÷Ò) ÊEòºÉ |ÉEòÉ®ú EòÉ ¨ÉÉ±É : EÞòÊ¹É =i{ÉÉnù (<Ç) Ê´ÉÊxÉnæù¶É ªÉ½þ ¨ÉÖJªÉiÉ& '¨ÉèºÉÚ®ú' ºÉÆ ÉMÉÇ EòÒ <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ ºÉΨ¨ÉʱÉiÉ ½èþ VÉÉä |ÉÉSÉÒxÉ ]ÅõÉ´ÉxEòÉä®ú |Énäù¶É ¨Éå {Éèn ùÉ ½þÉäiÉÒ ½èþ*
B±Éä{ÉÒ OÉÒxÉ '<±ÉɪÉSÉÒ' ºÉΨ¨ÉʱÉiÉ ½èþ VÉÉä |ÉÉSÉÒxÉ ]ÅõÉ´ÉxEòÉä®ú |Énäù¶É ¨Éå {ÉènùÉ ½þÉäiÉÒ ½èþ* B±Éä{ÉÒ OÉÒxÉ <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ
'B±ÉÆ]äõÊ®úªÉÉ EòÉbÇ÷ ɨÉ' EòÉ ºÉÚJÉÉ º´É°ü{É ½èþ ÊVɺÉä ½þ±EòÒ ¦ÉÎ]Âõ öªÉÉå ¨Éå ºÉÖJÉɪÉÉ VÉÉiÉÉ ½èþ ÊVÉºÉ {É®ú ¤É®úɤɮú lÉÉäc÷Ò ºÉÒ ½þ±EòÒ ½þ®úÒÊiɨÉÉ ¡èò±ÉÒ ®ú½þiÉÒ ½èþ +Éè®ú ®úÒgø VÉèºÉÉ º´É°ü{É ®ú½þiÉÉ ½èþ* ªÉ½þ {ÉζSÉ ÉÒ PÉÉ]õ Eäò ±É¨¤Éä ʴɺiÉÉ®ú ¨Éå
{ÉènùÉ ÊEòªÉÉ VÉÉiÉÉ ½èþ ÊVɺɨÉå ÊiɯûxÉä±É´Éä±ÉÒ ÊnùhbÖ÷CEò±É, EòÉäªÉ¨¤ÉkÉÚ®ú xÉÒ±ÉÊMÉÊ®ú +Éè®ú lÉähÉÒ ÊVɱÉÉ iÉʨɱÉxÉÉbÖ÷
®úÉVªÉ ¨Éå +Éè®ú <bÖ÷CEòÒ, {ÉɱÉPÉÉ]õ, ´ÉɪÉxÉÉb÷ ÊVɱÉÉå +Éè®ú Êiɯû´ÉxÉxiÉ{ÉÖ®ú¨É ¨Éå Eäò®ú±É Éå +ÉiÉÉ ½èþ*
33
Goods : Cardamom (A) Name of the applicant : Spices Board-A Commodity Board and agency under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry), (B) Address : SPICES BOARD, Ministry of Commerce and Industry, SUGANDHA BHAVAN, N.H Bye-Pass, P.B. No.2277,
Palarivattom, Cochin 25.
Represented by: M/s Anand and Anand, Advocates, Flat No.GA, AR Villa, New No.31, Third main road, Gandhi Nagar, Adayar, Chennai-600020
(C) List of association of persons / Producers / organization / : To be provided on request. Authority (D) Type of goods : Agricultural goods. (E) Specification : It is mainly includes the cardamom of “Mysore” category grown in the ancient Travancore. Alleppey Green cardamom is the dried capsule of Elettaria Cardamom, kiln dried, having a reasonably uniform shade of green colour and 3 cornered with ribbed appearance. It is cultivated in the long stretch of the Western Ghats and falling within the districts of Tirunelveli, Dindugul, Coimbatore, Nilgiris and Theni districts of the State of Tamil Nadu and
34
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35
the districts of Idukki, Palghat, Wynad and Trivandrum of the State of Kerala, in
India.
ALLEPPEY GREEN CARDAMOM 1
SOIL PH 4.0 – 6.0
2
ODOUR: TASTE:
Sweet floral cool odour Pleasant mellow flavour fruity
3
OIL: Sweet and fruity
4
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS:
Green Colour Diameter 5 – 8 mm mature, ribbed capsules Three cornered oblong
5 CHLOROPHYLL
RETENTION:
High, retains chlorophyll for a long time during storage
(F) Name of the Geographical Indication (and particulars): ALLEPPEY GREEN CARDAMOM The identity of this brand is interwoven with the geographical name Alleppey. It
is because previously in the native states of Travancore and Cochin, cardamom
was a monopoly of the respective Governments. The Raja of Travancore made it
compulsory that all the produce shall be sold to his official who forwarded it to
the main depot in Alleppey, then the most important port of Travancore. In
Alleppey, the cardamom was sold in auction. The best quality (Alleppey Green)
was reserved for export. It was here in Alleppey that the cardamom was
processed with the help of skilled labour. They segregated the produce in such a
manner that the best quality was identified and that was separated. The
underlying factor is that the processing was so skilled that the attributes
identified by the then yardsticks subsequently constituted the international
standards too. Thus upon the quality, the name Alleppey Green which still now
holds prominence is an internationally accepted grade on its own.
36
(VÉÒ) {ÉnùÉlÉÇ EòÉ ´ÉhÉÇxÉ
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<ºÉ ºÉÆ ÉMÉÇ ¨Éå Uô& VÉÉÊiɨÉÚ±É ½þÒ ½èþ* nùÊIÉhÉ ¦ÉÉ®úiÉ ¨Éå iÉÒxÉ |ÉEòÉ®ú ½èþ, ¨É±É¤ÉÉ®ú, ¨ÉèºÉÚ®ú (B±Éä{Éä OÉÒxÉ
|ÉEòÉ®ú) +Éè®ú ´É¹ÉÖCEò (={ɪÉÖÇHò |ÉEòÉ®úÉå EòÉ BEò Ê¨É É VÉÉiÉ)
(BSÉ) {ÉÞ¹`ö ºÉÆ. ¨Éå ÊnùJÉɪÉä |ÉEòÉ®ú =i{ÉÉnùxÉ EòÉ ¦ÉÉèMÉÉäʱ ÉEò IÉäjÉ +Éè®ú ¨ÉÉxÉÊSÉjÉ : 52 +Éè®ú 53
B±É{Éä OÉÒxÉ EòÉbÇ÷ É¨É ÊiɯûxÉä±´Éä±ÉÒ, ÊnùhbÖ÷CEò±É, EòÉäªÉ¨¤ÉkÉÚ®ú, xÉÒ±ÉÊMÉÊ®ú +Éè®ú lÉähÉÒ ÊVɱÉÉ iÉʨɱÉxÉÉbÖ÷
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37
(G) Description of goods: Alleppey Green is a grade name that asserts quality. The cardamom in this
grade is of certain unique quality. The grade Alleppey Green mainly includes the
cardamom of “Mysore” category grown in the ancient Travancore. This grade is
unique in its colour, size, chemical constituents and oil content. Alleppey Green
cardamom is the dried capsule of Elettaria Cardamom, kiln dried, having a
reasonably uniform shade of green colour and 3 cornered with ribbed
appearance. Superiority of Alleppey Green (cardamom oil) is its superior sensory
qualities, a better total perception of the flavour, which need not necessarily, be
dependant on the relative concentration of any one component. Incidentally the
“Mysore” variety comprising the Alleppey Green is the largest selling Indian
cardamom grade. Mysore (Cardamom) oil is sweet and fruity with a floral odor
due to low amount of cineole and higher amount of terpinyl acetate, linalool &
linalyl acetate. Cardamom belongs to the genus Elettaria, and species
Cardamomom (Matton). The genus name is derived from the Tamil root Elettari,
meaning cardamom seeds. The genus belong to the natural order Scitaminae,
family Zingiberaceae under monocotyledons with diploid chromosome number,
2n=48. . The genus consists of about six species. E. Cardamom Maton or true
cardamom occurs in South India and it is the only economically important
species. Cardamom is the unripened fruit of the perennial Elettaria Cardamomom.
Enclosed in the fruit pods are, dry, brown, aromatic seeds, which are slightly
pungent to taste.
The genus consists of about six species only. In South India there exist
mainly three varieties, Malabar, Mysore (the variety that constitutes Alleppey
Green) and Vazhukka(a hybrid of the above varieties).
(H) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no 52 & 53. The geographical area of cultivation of the Alleppey Green Cardamom is in the
38
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39
long stretch of the Western Ghats and falling within the districts of Tirunelveli,
Dindugul, Coimbatore, Nilgiris and Theni of the State of Tamil Nadu and the
districts of Idukki, Palghat, Wynad and Trivandrum of the State of Kerala in
India and lying within latitudes 8° N to 12° N and longitudes 74° E to 77° E.
(I) Proof of origin: (Historical records)
Cardamom-“Ela” has been used as a spice in India since pre historic times.
Cardamom is one of the most exotic, flamboyant and highly priced species of
spice, which has an origin in the Western Ghats and a history as old as human
civilization. The word cardamom vernacularly nomenclatured as Elattari and its
use from the ancient time indicated the existence and presence of this spice since
time immemorial. Further the presence of the word Ela in the Sanskrit scriptures
crystallizes its antecedence. Almost all ancient as well as modern researches,
documents, commentaries and such other works point towards the Western
Ghats as the epicenter of cardamom. The present State of Kerala accounts for
over 60% of the cardamom produce then and now.
It is said that, nothing is more interesting than sketching the history of spices as
it brings in the world history itself. The ancient scriptures of Arthashastra (3rd
century), the Taitreya Samhita (of the later Vedic period-3oooBC), the Charaka
Samhita (Ayurveda Text) Susrutha Samhita (1400-600 BC) among others mentions
the importance of cardamom as a spice and as a medicine. The spice
encyclopedia reveals that as early as in the 4th century BC, cardamom was used
in India as a medical herb and the Greeks and Romans imported it as a digestive
aid. The Babylonians and Assyrians were well informed of the medicinal values
of cardamom. It was an article of Greek trade during the 4th century BC and it
was listed among the Indian spices liable to duty in Alexandria. The spice history
and its relation to India can be sketched in different phases. During 200 BC –
1200 the Romans started sailing from Egypt to India to trade spices. In between
1200 to 1500 Europeans started exploring passages to the East Indies. During the
40
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]ÅõÉ´ÉhÉEòÉä®ú Eäò {ɽþÉc÷Éå {É®ú <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ EòÒ {ÉènùÉ<¶É ½þÉäiÉÒ lÉÒ* {ɽþ±Éä VÉ¤É ]ÅõÉ´ÉhÉEòÉä®ú +Éè®ú EòÉäÎSSÉxÉ ®úÉVÉÉ+Éå Eäò
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41
15th – 17th centuries the world witnessed wars for control of the spice
trade. The Portuguese under Vasco-Da-Gama opened the gateway for spice trade
from the west coast. Many more invaders followed. Portugal, England, Holland
and others fought for monopoly. In 1658 the Dutch gained control and
established exclusive trading rights from Malabar port. During the 16th -18th
century the English exploration began. First the Portuguese then the Dutch and
French and at last the English. In 1780 the Dutch and English fought a war over
the spice trade, which the Dutch lost. All these incidents point towards the
common fact that India was the abode of spices. Virtually all the cardamom that
existed in the ancient era travelled from India and particularly from the southern
belt and especially from Kerala. During that time the Arabs were the major
traders. They were successful in trading of spices to the Mediterranean with out
revealing the source of the spice. Cardamom too was no exception and even
historians like Pliny thought that Cardamom originated in Arabia. However the
curtains on the monopoly of the Arab trade were brought down by the discovery
of sea route to India and by the landing of Portuguese.
Since time immemorial Kerala has anchored the spice industry and
cardamom is no difference. Kalidasa’s ‘Raghuvamsam’ describes the Pandya
Empire that ruled South-India as a prosperous one as it was bestowed in
abundance with cardamom and other spices. Linchosten in his Journal of Indian
Travels (1596) describes two forms of cardamoms being used in South India.
According to him, the lesser cardamom (The True Form) was grown in mostly in
Calicut and Cannanore and on the coast of Malabar. The writings of Ludlow
(then Asst. Conservator of Forests) and Watt (1872) also describes briefly about
the cardamom cultivation in South- India Further according to Sir. William
Logan through his Malabar Manual asserts that cardamom indeed was grown in
Malabar and it formed a very essential form of trade. It is also pointed out by
him that in 1703 Sir. Hamilton had come down to Kerala and traded cardamom.
42
Bä±Éä{Éä ¨Éå ¨ÉÖJªÉ bä÷{ÉÉä EòÉä ¦ÉäVÉiÉä lÉä* iÉ¤É Bä±Éä{Éä ]ÅõÉ´ÉhÉEòÉä®ú EòÉ ¨ÉÖJªÉ ¤Éxnù®úMÉɽþ lÉÉ* B±É{Éä ¨Éå <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ EòÉ
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(Cooperative Cardamom Bank) JÉÉä±ÉÉ MɪÉÉ*
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MÉÖhÉ´ÉkÉÉ EòÉ ½þ®úÒ <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ ''B±Éä{ÉÒ OÉÒxÉ''
43
By the beginning of 19th century due to rampant cultivation the terrains of
Western Ghats and the portion south of Palghat Gap came to be known as
cardamom hills. Apart from Malabar the Travancore Desam also contributed
much in the cultivation and trade of cardamom. The Alleppey port was the main
trading location. The Madras Manuel draws references as to how cardamom was
grown in the hills of Travancore. Previously in the native states of Travancore
and Cochin, cardamom was a monopoly of the respective Govts. The Raja of
Travancore made it compulsory that all the produce shall be sold to his official
who forwarded it to the main depot in Alleppey, then the most important port of
Travancore. In Alleppey cardamom was sold in auction. The best quality
(Alleppey Green) was reserved for export. Thus the best quality cardamom was
known as Alleppey Green. Various pacts were entered into by the then
provincial rulers with the foreigners for the sale of spices. The 1761 pact by the
King of Chirakkal and the 1795 pact by the ruler of Kadathanadu are examples of
cardamom trading agreements. During the reign of Raja Marthandavarma, the
trading of cardamom and other spices were brought under governmental
control. Spices were sold in return for guns. The Travancore government even
opened a department under its forest ministry in the 1800’s itself with its centre
at Thodupuzha to look into cardamom cultivation and development. Later in
1869 the said department was detached from the ministry and was placed under
J.D Monroe as a special department. In that period the annual production of
cardamom in this region were 30,000 thulams with Rs 12 per thulam. Further in
1910, a “Cooperative Elam Bank” (Co-operative Cardamom Bank) was also
constituted.
In the post independent era, in 1963, to preserve, protect and enhance
cardamom cultivation a ‘Cardamom Development and Marketing Advisory
Committee’ was constituted. Subsequently in 1966 the Cardamom Board was
formed and later in 1987 accepting a broader vision the board was conferred a
44
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45
wider ambit and was named as the Spices Board. At present as an effort to
reestablish the identity of Indian spices and to get a fair share of the values
realized in the spice trade, the Spices Board of India in collaboration with Spices
Trading Corporation has launched “Flavourit” brand of premium Indian Spices.
Alleppey Green is one among in this prestigious brand.
No other spice anywhere in this world might have got such protection and
support as cardamom in Kerala. Cardamom is such an exotic spice that during
the period of 1000 BC it was said that a hand full of cardamom worth as much as
a poor mans early wages. History acclaims the origin and quality of cardamom
to Kerala. Glorifying the facts today we have the best as well as the most
exported quality of Green Cardamom in ALLEPPEY GREEN.
(J) Methods of Production:
Cardamom is a shade-loving crop. It is grown extensively in the hilly
regions of South India especially in Kerala, at elevations of 800 – 1300 m. above
mean sea level as an under crop in forest lands. A warm and humid climate,
loamy soils rich in organic matter, with adequate moisture and well distributed
rain fall are certain basic earthly standards pre requisite for good cultivation of
cardamom. The land is prepared by removing under growths and then thinning
out forest trees to give the much required shades. The Mysore variety, which
basically constitutes the ALLEPPEY GREEN, is robust, 3-4m in height with
lanceolate leaves, erect panicles and ovoid capsules, thrives well only under
assured, well distributed rain fall conditions. The best time for planting is after
the commencement of the South West monsoon.
The seeds germinate after 5 -7 weeks of sowing. Cardamom starts bearing
capsules 2-3 years after planting the seedlings. Flowering commences mainly
during April-May or some times even a bit later. It is at the maximum during
May-June. The fruits mature in about 120 days after flowering. Capsules that are
just short of full ripeness are harvested mainly during the months of October -
46
°ü{É ¨Éå ºÉÖJÉÉxÉÉ* EÞòÊjÉ¨É °ü{É ¨Éå ºÉÖJÉÉxÉä EòÒ {ÉrùÊiɪÉÉå ¨Éå {ÉÉ<{É ={ÉSÉÉ®úhÉ (¦É]Âõ]õÒ ¨Éå ºÉÖJÉÉxÉÉ) ºÉ´ÉÉækɨÉ
iÉ®úÒEòÉ ½èþ* ºÉÚªÉÇ |ÉEòÉ¶É ºÉä ºÉÖJÉɪÉÒ MɪÉÒ ªÉÉ bÅ÷ɪɮú ¨Éå ºÉÖJÉɪÉÒ MɪÉÒ <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ EòÉä Ê¡ò®ú ºÉä xɨÉÒ ºÉ¨ÉɱÉäxÉÉ,
¤Éɽþ®úÒ {ÉnùÉlÉÇ +Éè®ú ®úɺÉɪÉÊxÉEò +xiÉÇiÉi´ÉÉå +Éè®ú ºÉÚI¨ÉÉhÉÖ VÉÒ´ÉÉå ºÉä +Éè®ú EòÒ]õÉÊnù Eäò ±ÉMÉ VÉÉxÉä ºÉä ¤ÉSÉÉxÉÉ ½èþ*
+iÉ& öÒEò iÉ®ú½þ ºÉä {ÉèEò Eò®úxÉÉ ¦ÉÒ WÉ°ü®úÒ ½þÉä VÉÉiÉÉ ½èþ* ¤ÉÉnù ¨Éå {ÉnùÉlÉÇ EòÉä OÉäb÷ ÊEòªÉÉ VÉÉiÉÉ ½èþ* ®ÆúMÉ ´ÉWÉxÉ
+ÉEòÉ®ú +Éè®ú ®úɺÉɪÉÊxÉEò iÉi´É Eäò +ÉvÉÉ®ú {É®ú OÉäb÷ ÊEòªÉÉ VÉÉiÉÉ ½èþ* EÖòUô |ÉEòÉ®ú Eäò <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ ¨Éå ½þ®úÉ{ÉxÉ Ê]õEòÉ
®ú½þiÉÉ ½èþ {É®ú EÖòUô ¦ÉÚ®äú +Éè®ú ºÉÖxɽþ±Éä ®ÆúMÉ Eäò ¤ÉxÉ VÉÉiÉä ½éþ* EÖòUô =VɱÉä ¦ÉÒ ¤ÉxÉ VÉÉiÉä ½éþ* B±Éä{Éä OÉÒxÉ EòÉbÇ÷ ɨÉ,
B±±Éä]äõÊ®úªÉÉ EòÉbÇ÷ ÉÉä É¨É (Etteria Cardamomum) EòÉ ºÉÚJÉÉ Eèò{ºªÉÚ±É ½èþ, ¦É]Âõ öÒ ¨Éå ºÉÖJÉɪÉÉ MɪÉÉ ÊVɺɨÉå
ºÉ¨ÉlÉÇxÉÒªÉ ½þ®äú ®ÆúMÉ EòÉ ¶Éäb÷ ½èþ, ÊiÉEòÉäxÉÉ +Éè®ú ÊVɺÉEòÉ °ü{É ®úÒgønùÉ®ú ½èþ* ªÉ½þ <ºÉ ¥Éèhb÷ ¨ÉÉjÉ EòÉ Ê´Éʶɹ]õ
+ÉEòÉ®ú |ÉEòÉ®ú ½èþ*
ÊxɨxÉʱÉÊJÉiÉ iÉ®ú½þ ºÉä ={ÉSÉÉ®úhÉ ´É ºÉÆ®úIÉhÉ Eò®úEäò ½þÒ +ÎxiÉ¨É =i{ÉÉnù ¨Éå ®ÆúMÉ vÉ®äú ®úJÉxÉä iÉlÉÉ
ºÉÆ®úÊIÉiÉ Eò®úxÉä EòÒ {ÉrùÊiÉ EòɨɪÉÉ¤É ½èþ :
1. EòÉbÇ÷ É¨É EòÉä, ¡òºÉ±É Eäò iÉÖ®úxiÉ ¤ÉÉnù ½þÒ ºÉÖJÉÉEò®ú ¨ÉÚ±É ®ÆúMÉ EòÉ, ÊVɺɨÉå =xÉEòÒ ¡òºÉ±É EòÉ]õÒ MɪÉÒ
vÉ®äú ®úJÉEò®ú,
2. {ɽþ±Éä 10-12 PÉÆ]õÉå ¨Éå ÊVÉºÉ Eò¨É®äú ¨Éå <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ EòÉ ¦Éhb÷É®úhÉ ÊEòªÉÉ VÉÉiÉÉ ½èþ =ºÉ Eò¨É®äú Eäò iÉÉ{ɨÉÉxÉ
EòÉä 40 Êb÷OÉÒ ºÉä 50 Êb÷OÉÒ ºÉäα¶ÉªÉºÉ Eäò ¤ÉÒSÉ ¨Éå ®úJÉEò®ú Ê¡ò®ú iÉÉ{ɨÉÉxÉ EòÉä 55 Êb÷OÉÒ ºÉäα¶ÉªÉºÉ
iÉEò ¤ÉÉEòÒ ={ÉSÉÉ®úhÉ +´ÉÊvÉ ¨Éå ¤ÉgøɪÉÉ VÉÉiÉÉ ½èþ*
3. ={ÉSÉÉ®ú Eäò ºÉ¨ÉªÉ =ÊSÉiÉ JÉÖ±ÉÉ´É näùEò®ú Eò¨É®äú ºÉä xɨÉÒ EòÉä {ÉÚ®úÒ iÉ®ú½þ ½þ]õÉEò®ú ºÉÖJÉÉiÉä ºÉ¨ÉªÉ ½þ®äú ®ÆúMÉ
EòÉä ¤ÉxÉɪÉä ®úJÉxÉä Eäò ʱÉB ªÉ½þ WÉ°ü®úÒ ½èþ,
4. ={ÉSÉÉ®úhÉ Eäò ºÉ¨ÉªÉ 65 Êb÷OÉÒ ºÉäα¶ÉªÉºÉ ºÉä +ÊvÉEò Eò¨É®äú Eäò iÉÉ{ɨÉÉxÉ EòÉä ¤ÉgøÉxÉä xÉ näùxÉÉ* <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ
Eäò ¡ò]õ VÉÉxÉä +Éè®ú ¦Éɹ{ɶÉÒ±É <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ iÉä±É EòÉä ¤ÉSÉÉxÉä Eäò ʱÉB ªÉ½þ WÉ°ü®úÒ ½èþ +Éè®ú
5. ={ÉSÉÉÊ®úiÉ EòÉbÇ÷ É¨É Eèò{ºªÉÚ±É EòÉä {ÉèEò Eò®úEäò ¦Éhb÷É®úhÉ Eò®úxÉä Eäò ʱÉB {ɽþ±Éä EòɱÉä {ÉÉʱÉlÉÒxÉ
±ÉÉ<ËxÉMÉ ´ÉɱÉä ºÉxÉ Eäò ¤ÉÉä®äú ¨Éå ¤Éxnù Eò®åú +Éè®ú Ê¡ò®ú EòÉ ö Eäò ¤ÉCºÉÉå ¨Éå ¤Éä½þiÉ®ú ¦Éhb÷É®úhÉ nùIÉiÉÉ Eäò
ʱÉB ®úJÉå*
47
November. In the peek season harvesting is carried out at an interval of 15 days,
as this crop has a prolonged and extensive flowering period thereby inducing
several pickings. There exist mainly two types of pickings. The first is light
picking where in only mature capsules are harvested while the second is hard
picking where semi-matured capsules are also removed.
It is the post- harvesting techniques that form the true backbone of quality
cardamom. One of the prominent post-harvesting measures is retention of green colour
which is the soul of ALLEPPEY GREEN. Further, capsules after harvest are washed
thoroughly in water to remove the adhering soil and other extraneous matters
and then taken for drying in kilns. Curing is essential to bring down the initial
moisture level of the harvested crops and also to preserve the greenness of
capsules. Thus proper curing of capsules at harvest becomes very important.
Generally two types of curing methods are adopted viz-natural sun drying
(undesirable for cardamom) and artificial drying. Among the artificial methods
pipe curing (kiln drying) is one of the best methods. Cardamom cured by sun
drying or in a dryer, has to be protected from absorption of moisture,
contamination with foreign orders, microorganisms and other insect infestations.
Thus proper packing also becomes necessary. Subsequently the produce is
graded on the basis of its colour, size, weight and chemical constituents. Some
variety of cardamoms retains its green colour while some others turn to
brownish and golden colours. Some others are bleached. ALLEPPEY GREEN
cardamom is the dried capsule variety of Eletteria Cardamomum; kiln dried having
a reasonably uniform shade of green colour, three cornered and having a ribbed
appearance which is a unique feature of this particular brand alone.
The methods of preservation and retention of colour of the finished
product are by the following method of curing and preservation:
48
(Eäò) JÉÉʺɪÉiÉ
'B±Éä{Éä OÉÒxÉ' <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ ¦ÉÉ®úiÉ EòÉ ºÉ¤ÉºÉä |ÉÉSÉÒxÉ VÉxÉÊ|ɪÉÉ +Éè®ú {ɺÉÆnùÒn ùÉ <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ ½èþ* ´É½þ VÉè É°ü{É ¨Éå
{ÉC´É, +{ÉÊ®ú{ÉC´É +Éè®ú ºÉÚJÉÉ ¡ò±É ½èþ VÉÉä ¨ÉèºÉÚ®ú +Éè®ú ´É¹ÉÖEò Eòα]õ´ÉÉ®ú Eäò ºÉnùɤɽþÉ®ú {ÉÉèvÉ B±Éä]Âõ]õÊ®úªÉÉ
EòÉbÇ÷ É¨É ºÉä {ÉènùÉ ½þÉäiÉÉ ½èþ* {ÉζSɨÉÒ PÉÉ]õ Eäò ¡èò±ÉÉ´É ¨Éå iÉʨɱÉxÉÉbÖ÷ ºÉä ÊiɯûxÉä±É´Éä±ÉÒ, ÊnùhbÖ÷CEò±É, EòÉäªÉ¨¤ÉkÉÚ®ú,
xÉÒ±ÉÊMÉÊ®ú, +Éè®ú lÉähÉÒ ÊVɱÉÉå ¨Éå +Éè®ú Eäò®ú±É Eäò <bÖ÷CEòÒ {ÉɱÉPÉÉ]õ, ´ÉɪÉxÉÉb÷ +Éè Êiɯû´ÉxÉxiÉ{ÉÖ®ú¨É ÊVɱÉä ¨Éå,
¦ÉÉ®úiÉ ¨Éå 8.3 =kÉ®ú ºÉä 12 Êb÷OÉÒ =kÉ®ú ±É¨¤É ®äúJÉÉ ¨Éå iÉlÉÉ 70 Êb÷OÉÒ ºÉä 77 Êb÷OÉÒ +IÉ ®äúJÉÉ ¨Éå {ÉɪÉÉ VÉÉiÉÉ
½èþ* <ºÉ¨Éå ¤É®úɤɮú ºÉ¨É°ü{É ½þ®úÉ ®ÆúMÉ ½èþ, 5 ºÉä 8 ʨÉ. ÉÒ]õ®ú ´ªÉÉºÉ ¨Éå Eò¨É ºÉä Eò¨É ¡Öò]õÉ´É {ÉC´É, Ë®úMÉ ´ÉɱÉÉ,
ÊiÉEòÉäxÉÉ Eèò{ºªÉÚ±É ½èþ* ®úÒgønùÉ®ú °ü{É +Éè®ú ¨ÉvÉÖ®ú 欃 öÉºÉ ¦É®ú {ÉÖ¹{É MÉxvÉ ½èþ ÊVɺÉEòÒ ´ÉWɽþ ¨ÉÊnù®ú º´ÉÉnù ½èþ* ªÉ½þ
1-8 ʺÉÊxɪÉÉä±É (34.2) Eò¨É ¨ÉÉjÉÉ Eäò +Éè®ú +ÊvÉEò ¨ÉÉjÉÉ Eäò ]äõÌ{ÉÊxÉ±É (BºÉÒ]äõ]õ 345) ʱÉxÉɱÉÚ]õ (6.4)
+Éè®ú ʱÉxÉÉʱÉ]õ BʺÉ]äõ]õ (3.1) ½èþ*
<ºÉ OÉäb÷ Eäò <±ÉɪÉSÉÒ EòÒ BEò +Éè®ú JÉÉʺɪÉiÉ <¶ÉEòÉ ½ÖþʱɪÉÉ ½èþ* ±É¨¤ÉÉ<Ç ¨Éå 21 ʨɱÉÒ ¨ÉÒ]õ®ú ½èþ
+Éè®ú +ÉEòÉ®ú ¦ÉÒ 5-8 ʨɨÉÒ. b÷ªÉɨÉÒ]õ®ú ½èþ* <ºÉ ¤Éäcä÷ °ü{É +Éè®ú +ÉEòÉ®ú Eäò ºÉ¨É°ü{É <ºÉ¨Éå +ÊvÉEò iÉä±É ½èþ*
B±Éä{Éä OÉÒxÉ Eäò ¤ÉÒVÉÉå ¨Éå ®ú½þxÉä ´ÉɱÉÉ iÉä±É =SSÉiÉ®ú |ÉÊiɶÉiÉ EòÉ ½èþ (7.5-11.3) VÉ¤É ½þ¨É <ºÉEòÒ iÉÖ±ÉxÉÉ +xªÉ
OÉäb÷Éå ºÉä Eò®úiÉä ½éþ* ´ÉÉÊhÉVªÉ °ü{É ¨Éå ÊxɺªÉÎxnùiÉ B±Éä{Éä OÉÒxÉ iÉä±É ¨Éå iÉÒJÉÒ, EÖòUô EÖòUô {É®äú¶ÉÉxÉ Eò®úxÉä ´ÉɱÉÒ
ºÉÒÊxɪÉÉäʱÉEò, ¶ÉÒiÉ±É EòÉ®úEò EòÉ¡Úò®úÒ EÞòʨÉxÉɶÉEò ºÉÉ MÉÖxÉ MÉÖxÉ MÉ®ú¨É ºÉÖMÉÎxvÉiÉ ¡ò±É VÉèºÉÉ |ÉÉ®úΨ¦ÉEò |ɦÉÉ´É
{Éc÷iÉÉ ½èþ* {É®ú iÉä±É ¶ÉÒQÉ ½þÒ ½þ´ÉÉ ¨Éå PÉÖ±É VÉÉiÉÉ ½èþ +Éè®ú =ºÉEòÒ iÉÉWÉMÉÒ ±ÉÖ{iÉ ½þÉä VÉÉiÉÒ ½èþ +Éè®ú 24 PÉÆ]õÉå Eäò
¤ÉÉnù EòÉä<Ç +´Éʶɹ]õ MÉxvÉ xɽþÓ ®ú½þiÉÒ ½èþ* +xªÉ |ÉEòÉ®úÉå EòÒ iÉÖ±ÉxÉÉ ¨Éå ªÉtÊ{É 1.8 ʺÉxEòÉä±É iÉi É Eò¨É ½èþ {É®ú
B-]äõ®úÊ{ÉÊxÉ±É BºÉÒ]äõ]õ iÉi´É iÉÖ±ÉxÉÒªÉ ½èþ, ±ÉÒxÉÉ ±ÉÚ±É ´É ʱÉxÉÉÊ±É±É BʺÉ]äõ]õ ÊxÉζSÉiÉ °ü{É ¨Éå =SSÉiÉ®ú ½èþ* ÊxÉ xÉ
1.8-ʺÉxɨÉÉä±É ÊVɺɨÉå Eòc÷É EòÉ{ÉÚ®úÒ |ɦÉÉ´É ½èþ +Éè® =SSÉiÉ®ú ʱÉxÉÉʱÉ]õ BºÉÒ]äõ]õ +Éè®ú =ºÉEòÉ ¡ò±ÉnùÉ®ú ¡Öò±Éè±ÉÉ
MÉxvÉ ½èþ, VÉ¤É Ê¨É±ÉEò®ú BEò ¨ÉvÉÖ®ú ¨ÉÊnù®ú WÉɪÉEòÉ näùiÉÉ ½èþ* <ºÉEòÒ JÉÉʺɪÉiÉ ¨ÉÉèºÉ¨ÉÒ |ɦÉÉ´É ´É EÞò¹ªÉ °ü{É Eäò
EòÉ®úhÉ ½èþ*
49
1-By drying the cardamom immediately after harvest to retain original colour at
which they are harvested,
2-By maintaining the room temperature in which the cardamom is stored
between 40° to 50° C for the first 10 – 12 hours, and then to increase the
temperature to 55°C for the rest of the curing period,
3-By providing proper openings for expelling the moisture from the room while
curing. This is essential to retain green colour during drying,
4-Avoiding raising room temperature above 65°C in order to reduce splitting of
capsule and loss of vital volatile cardamom oil, and
5-By the use, after polishing cured cardamom capsules, of black polythene lined
gunny bags for packing and storing the cardamom in wooden boxes for better
storage efficiency.
(K) Uniqueness:
Alleppey Green Cardamom is one of the oldest, most popular and sought
after cardamom from India. It is the physiologically mature unripened and dried
fruit of the perennial plant Elettaria cardamomum of the Mysore and vazhukka
cultivars.It is cultivated in the long stretch of the Western Ghats and lying within
the Districts of Tirunelveli, Dindugul, Coimbatore, Nilgiris and Theni Districts
of the State of Tamil Nadu and the Districts of Idukki, Palghat, Wynad and
Trivandrum Districts of the State of Kerala ,In India and lying within latitudes 8°
N to 12° N and longitudes 74° to 77° E.It is having uniform shade of green colour,
measuring 5 – 8mm in diameter, having minimum splits, mature, ringled, three
cornered capsules, having ribbed appearance.It is also having a sweet fruity
floral odour resulting in pleasant mellow flavour, attributable to the low amount
of 1-8 cineole (34.2) and high amount of terpinyl acetate (34.5), Linalool (6.4) and
Lynalyl acetate (3.1).
Another unique feature of this grade of cardamom is its size. It stands
apart from others in length (21mm) and also in size (5 – 8mm in diameter). This
50
increases its chance of holding more oil. The volatile oil in the seeds of
ALLEPPEY GREEN is much higher in percentage (7.5-11.3) when compared to
the other grades. The commercially distilled oil from ALLEPPEY GREEN has a
penetrating, slightly irritating, cineolic, cooling camphoraceous, disinfectant
warm, spicy, sweet, aromatic, fruity initial impact. However the oil rapidly airs –
off on a smelling strip loosing its freshness and there persists no residual odour
after 24 hours. Compared to other varieties though 1, 8- cineole content is low
and the α-terpinyl acetate content comparable, the linalool and linalyl acetate is
markedly higher. The combination of lower 1, 8- cineole with its harsh
camphoric note and higher linalyl acetate with its sweet fruity- floral odour
result in the relatively pleasant mellow flavour in the variety. Its uniqueness is
also specifically attributable to the agro-climatic factors
Agro-climatic and physiographic conditions for Alleppey Green Cardamom SOIL: TYPE : PH
Sandy loam to clay loam 4.00 – 7.1
RAINFALL MONSOON
1500 – 3550 mm Southwest Monsoon, from June to early September, and Northeast Monsoon from third week of October to the end of November
TEMPERATURE
12 – 30 degree C
ALTITUDE
800 to 1300 meters above MSL
(L) Inspection body: The applicants are taking steps to set up a suitable, independent and effective
inspection body involving external members .
51
52
53
th 1 & vkosnu i= la 78 oxZ 30 ds v/khu vkusokys byk;ph ds laca/k esa] dwxZ gjs byk;ph ds jaftLVj esa Hkkx v ds v/khu iathdj.k gsrq] vkosnu i= la-78 tks Likbll cksMZ & ,d dekfMVh cksMZ rFkk okf.kT; o m|ksx ea=ky; ds v/khu ,tUlh] Likbll cksMZ] okf.kT; o m|ksx ea=ky;] lqxU/kk Hkou] ,u ,p ckbZikl] ihch la-2277] iyfjosV~Ve] dksph 25 Hkkjr }kjk vkosnu fd;k x;k Fkk dks lkefxz;ksa ds Hkkxksfyd ladsrd ¼iathdj.k o lqj{kk½ vf/kfu;e 1999 dh /kkjk 13 mi/kkjk ¼1½ ds v/khu Lohd`r djds foKkfir fd;k tk jgk gSA vkosnd % Likblsl cksMZ & ,d dekfMVh cksMZ rFkk okf.kT; o m|ksx ea=ky; ds v/khu ,tUlh irk % Likblsl cksMZ] okf.kT; o m|ksx ea=ky; lqxU/kk Hkou] ,u ,p ckbZikl]
ihch la-2277] iyfjosV~Ve] dksph 25 izfrfuf/kRo esllZ vkuUn vkSj vkuUn vf/koDRkk Q~ysV la-th,] ,vkj foYyk u;k la-31] r`rh; esbu jksM xkaW/kh uxj] vM;kj] psUubZ 600020
HkkSxksfyd ladsr % dwxZ gjs byk;ph oxZ % 30 lkexzh % byk;ph ,- vkosnd d uke % Likblsl cksMZ & ,d dekfMVh cksMZ rFkk okf.kT; o m|ksx ea=ky; ds v/khu ,tUlh
54
G.I. – APPLICATION NUMBER 78 Application is made by SPICES BOARD- A Commodity Board and agency
under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Spices Board, Ministry of
Commerce And Industry, Sugandha Bhavan, N.H bye-pass, P.B. No.2277,
Palarivattom, Cochin 25, India, for registration in Part - A of the register of
COORG GREEN CARDAMOM under Application No 78 in respect of
Cardamom falling in Class 30 is hereby advertised as accepted under sub-
section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and
Protection) Act, 1999.
Applicant : Spices Board - A Commodity Board and agency under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry. Address : SPICES BOARD, Ministry of Commerce and Industry, SUGANDHA BHAVAN, N.H Bye- Pass, P.B. No.2277, Palarivattom, Cochin 25. Represented by: M/s Anand and Anand, Advocates, Flat No.GA, AR Villa, New No.31, Third main road, Gandhi Nagar, Adayar, Chennai-600020 Geographical Indication : COORG GREEN CARDAMOM Class : 30 Goods : Cardamom
55
ch- irk % Likblsl cksMZ]
okf.kT; o m|ksx ea=ky;
lqxU/kk Hkou] ,u ,p ckbZikl]
ihch la-2277] iyfjosV~Ve] dksph 25
izfrfuf/kRo
esllZ vkuUn vkSj vkuUn
vf/koDRkk
Q~ysV la-th,] ,vkj foYyk
u;k la-31] rrh; esbu jksM
xkaW/kh uxj] vM;kj] psUubZ 600020
lh- O;fDr;ksa dk vlksfl;s”ku@
mRiknd@laxBu@
izkf/kdj.k dh lwph % izkFkZuk ij iznku fd;k tk,xk
Mh- eky ds izdkj % df’k lkexzh
b- fofufnZf’Vdj.k %
;g eyokj izdkj ds fpjLFkkbZ ikS/kk ,ysVsfj;k byk;ph ds iw.kZ ifjiDo vkSj lw[ks Qy gSA bls] Hkkjr ds dukZVd ds dwxZ ftyk]
fpdexywj ftyk] glu ftyk vkSj mRrj dujk ftyk esa mit fd;k
tkrk gSA
1 /kjrh ih,p 3-8&5-8 de
2 xa/k
#fp
diwZj BaMs xa/k
ddZ”k
3 rsy diwZj vkSj ddZ”k
4 “kkjhfjd y{k.k gjs ls lqo.kZe; ihys
jax 5-5 ls 8-5 ,e,e
Mk;ehVj iw.kZ ifjiDo] Ropk fjCM dsilwy]
fo”o vkdkj
56
(A) Name of the applicant : Spices Board-A Commodity Board And agency under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry (B) Address : SPICES BOARD, Ministry of Commerce and Industry, SUGANDHA BHAVAN, N.H Bye- Pass, P.B. No.2277, Palarivattom, Cochin 25. Represented by: M/s Anand and Anand, Advocates, Flat No.GA, AR Villa, New No.31, Third main road, Gandhi Nagar, Adayar, Chennai-600020 (C) List of association of persons / Producers / organization / : To be provided on request.
Authority (D) Type of goods : Agricultural goods. (E) Specification : It is the fully ripened and dried fruit of the perennial plant Elettaria
cardamomum of the Malabar variety. It is cultivated in the Coorg District,
Chickmagalur District, Hassan District, and North Kanara District of the State
of Karnataka, in India.
57
5 DyksjksfQy /kkj.k
“kfDr
de ;g HkaMkj.k ds
le; DyksjksfQy dks
nzqrxfr ls [kks nsrk gS
,Q- Hkkxksfyd ladsr dk uke ¼vkSj fooj.k½
dwxZ gjk byk;ph
th- eky dk fooj.k
dwxZ gjk bykph ,d eyckj oxZ dk izdkj gS ftls Hkkjr esa
dukZVd ds dwxZ ftyk] fpdexywj ctyk] glu ftyk vkSj mRrj dujk
ftyk iSnk fd;k tkrk gSA ;g oxZ mldh jax] otu] jlk;ufud la?kVd rFkk rsy miyC/krk esa vuks[kh gSA dwxZ gjk byk;ph ,ysVsfj;k byk;h
ds lw[ks dsilwy gsaxs ftldk jax gjk ls czkmu jgsxh vkSj vyx fd;s
isfZMlYl ds lkFk fLdu fjcM ;k ljy fo”o vkdkj ds gksrs gSA
byk;ph dh egRork mldh ifjorZu”khy rsy miyC/krk ds dkj.k ls
gSA byk;ph chtksa dh izfr”krrk mldh lw[ks cht vk/kkj ij
ifjorZ”khy rsy ls ldkjkRed :Ik ls lglaca/k fd;k tkrk gS tcfd
ifjorZ”khy rsy dks fNydk dh izfr”kr ds lkFk udkjkRed :Ik l s
lglaca/k fd;k tkrk gSA eyckj izdkj ftlesa dwxZ gjk miyC/k gS dksbZ
viokn ughaA blesa byk;ph rsy ds eq[; Hkkx gS ,sls 1]8&flfu;ksy vkSj ,&Vsjfiukby vflVsV vf/kd ek=k esa gksrs gSA ifjorZu”khy rsy ij
foLrkj f”k{k.k izLrqr djrk gS fd vU; izdkjksa ds rqyu esa eyckj izdkj
esa mPp izfr”kr 1]8&flfu;ksy miyC/k gS ftlls QSykusokys #fp rFkk
rkt+k izHkko ykrk gSaA ij Hkh ,-Vjfiukby ,flVsV dh ek=k rqyuh; gS A
,p- mRiknu lacaf/kr HkkSxksfyd {ks= rFkk uD”ks % tSls i`’B la[;k 72 es a fn[kk;k x;k gS
dwxZ gjk byk;ph dh mit fd;s tkusokys HkkSxksfyd {ks= if”pe xkWV
ds foLrkj {ks= esa lfEefyr gS vkSj ;g Hkkjr ds deukZVd ds dwxZ ftyk]
fpdexywj ftyk] gklu ftyk vkSj mRrj dujk ftyk ds v/khu vkrk
gSA ;g ysfVV~;M 12 fMxzh mRrj ls 16 fMxzh mRrj vkSj ykWfxV~;wM 74
fMxzh iwoZ ls 77 fMxzh iwoZ ds chp jgrk gSa
58
1
SOIL PH 3.8 – 5.8 (Low)
2
ODOUR: TASTE:
Campharous cool odour Harsh
3
OIL: Campharous & harsh
4
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS:
Greenish to Golden Yellow Colour 5.5 to 8.5 mm diameter fully matured, Skin ribbed capsule Global Shape
5 CHLOROPHYLL RETENTION:
Low, it looses chlorophyll fast during storage
(F) Name of the Geographical Indication: (and particulars) COORG GREEN CARDAMOM (G) Description of goods: The Coorg Green cardamom is the variety of “Malabar” category
grown in Coorg District, Chickmagalur District,Hassan District, and North
Kanara District of the State of Karnataka in India. This grade is unique in its
colour, size, chemical constituents and oil content. Coorg Green cardamom
shall be the dried capsule of Elletaria Cardamom with a colour ranging from
greenish to brown with global shape skin ribbed or smooth and pedicels
separated. The superiority of cardamom is due to their volatile oil contents.
Percentage of cardamom seeds is positively co-related with volatile oil on dry
seed basis, whereas percentage of husk to volatile oil is negatively correlated .
The Malabar variety constituting Coorg Green too is no exception. It has the
major components of cardamom oil i.e., 1,8- cineole and α- terpinyl acetate in
abundance. Detailed studies on volatile oil reveal that, var. Malabar contains
high percentage of 1, 8- cineole compared to other varieties thereby bringing in
a fresh campharaceous cool odour with a diffusive taste and a refreshing effect.
However the quantity of α- terpinyl acetate is comparable.
59
vkbZ- mn~xe lacaf/kr xokg ¼,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k½ byk;ph & ^,yk^ dks iwoZ ,sfrgkfld le;ksa ls gekjs ns”k esa Likbl ds :Ik esa mi;ksx fd;k x;k gSA byk;ph Likblksa esa cgqr gh fons”kh]
Likblksa esa byk;ph cgqr gh vkd’kZd] vR;yad`r vkSj mPp nke okys /kkrqokg gS ftldk ewy if”pe ?kkV esa gS vkSj ekuoh; lH;rk tSls iqjkus gSA byk;ph ns”kh Hkk’kk esa ,yV~Vkjh ls ukekoyhd`r gS vkSj ;g iqjkus tekus ls mldk mi;ksx bl Likbl dh vfuf”pr le; ls vfLrRo dks cks/k djkrk gSA vkxs laLd`r /keZiqLrdksa esa ,yk “kCn miyC/k gksus ls mldh iwoZ miyC/krk dks fuf”pr :Ik nsrk gSaA yxHkx lHkh vk/kqfud o iqjkus vuqla/kku] nLrkost] O;k[;k vkSj ,sls vU; dk;Z if”pr ?kkV dks ,yk;ph dh ,filsUVj ds :Ik esa fn[kkrk gSA vc dk dukZVd jkT; ,yk;ph mRiknu esas 30 izfr”kr ds lkFk izFke gS ftlds ckn vkrk gS dsjyA ;g dgk tkrk gS fd Likblksa dh bfrgkl dks fy[kus ls c<dj vkd’kZd ckr vkSj dqN ugha gS D;ksafd ;g fo”o bfrgkl dks lkeus ykrk gSA vFkZ”kkL= ¼r`rh; “krkCnh½] rS=h; lafgrk ¼ckn ds osfnd vof/k 3000 chlh dk½] pkjd lafgrk ¼vk;qosZn VsDLV½] lqJwrk lafgrk ¼1400&1600 chlh½ tSls iqjkus /keZiqLrd vU;ksa esa ls Likbl rFkk vkS’kf/k ds :Ik esa byk;ph dh eq[;rk dks crkrk gSa Likbl fo”odks”k ;g is”k djrk gS fd yxHkx 4oha “krkCnh chlh esa] byk;ph dks Hkkjr esa ,d vkS’kf/kd tM+h ds :Ik eas mi;ksx fd;k x;k vkSj xzhd vkSj jkseh; O;fDr us mUgsa ikpd lgk;rk ds :Ik esa vk;kr fd;s FksA ckchyksf;u rFkk vflfj;u byk;ph dh vkS’kf/kd ewY;ksa ls cgqr gh ifjfpr FksA 4oha “krkCnh chlh ds nkSjku xzhd O;kikj dh ys[k esa miyC/k jgk vkSj vysDlsfUMª;k esa O;kikj ds fy, Hkkjr ds Likbl ds :Ik esa lwphc) FkkA Likbl bfrgkl rFkk Hkkjr ls mldk laca/k dks fofHkUu Qslksa esa foHkkftr dj ldrs gSaA 200 chlh&1200 ds nkSjku jkseh; Hkkjr esa Likbl O;kikj djus ds fy, bftIV ls vkus yxsA 1200 ls 1500 ds chp bZjksih; bZLV baMht+ esa iSlst dks [kkstuk “kq: fd;sA 15 ls 17oha “krkCnh ds nkSjku] Likbl O;kikj ij dCtk djus ds fy, fo”o us vusd ;q)ksa dks ns[kkA okLdks M xkek ds v/khu iksrqZxhl us if”per rV ls Likbl O;kikj ds fy, jkLrk [kksysA vkSj dbZ vkdze.k djusokys Hkh vk;sA iksrqZxy] baXySaM] gkWySaMvkSj vU;ksa us ,dkf/kdkj ds fy, yMs+ A 1658 esa] Mp us fu;a=.k ik fy;k vkSj eyckj
60
(H) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no 72. The geographical area of cultivation of the Coorg Green Cardamom is
comprised in the long stretch of the Western Ghats and falling within the;Coorg
District,Chickmagalur District,Hassan District, and North Kanara District of the
State of Karnataka in India and lying within latitudes 12° N to 16° N and
longitudes 74° E to 77° E.
(I) Proof of origin: (Historical records) Cardamom-“Ela” has been used as a spice in India since pre historic times.
Cardamom is one of the most exotic, flamboyant and highly priced specie of
spice which has an origin in the Western Ghats and a history as old as human
civilization. The word cardamom vernacularly nomenclatured as Elattari and
its use from the ancient time indicated the existence and presence of this spice
since time immemorial. Further the presence of the word Ela in the Sanskrit
scriptures crystallizes its antecedence. Almost all ancient as well as modern
researches, documents, commentaries and such other works point towards the
Western Ghats as the epicenter of cardamom. The present State of Karnataka
accounts for over 30% of the cardamom produce, second to Kerala, then and
now.
It is said that, nothing is more interesting than sketching
the history of spices as it brings in the world history itself. The ancient
scriptures of Arthashastra (3rd century), the Taitreya Samhita (of the later Vedic
period-3oooBC), the Charaka Samhita (Ayurveda Text) Susrutha Samhita (1400-
600 BC) among others mentions the importance of cardamom as a spice and as
a medicine. The spice encyclopedia reveals that as early as in the 4th century BC,
cardamom was used in India as a medical herb and the Greeks and Romans
imported it as a digestive aid. The Babylonians and Assyrians were well
informed of the medicinal values of cardamom. It was an article of Greek trade
during the 4th century BC and it was listed among the Indian spices liable to
duty in Alexandria. The spice history and its relation to India can be sketched
61
canjxkg ls vuU; O;kikj gd LFkkfir fd;sA 16ohs ls 18oha “krkCnh ds nkSjku vaxzstksa dk [kkst vkjaHk gqvkA izFker% iksrqZxhl] fQj Mp vkSj Qzsp rFkk ckn esa vaxzstA 1780 esa Mp vkSj vaxzsth;ksa us Likbl O;kikj ds fy, ;q) fd;s vkSj Mp blesa ijkftr gq,A bu lHkh ?kVuk bl lkekU; rF; dh vksj /;ku vkdf’kZRk djrk gaS fd Hkkjr Likblksa dk fuoklLFkku FkkA okLro esa iqjkus tekus esa miyC/k lHkh byk;ph Hkkjr ls x;k gS vkSj eq[;r% dukZVd lfEefyr djds nf{k.k {ks= ls x;k gSA ml le; vjc gh eq[; O;kikjhFksA Likbl dh Jksr dks fcuk crk;s os Hkwe/;lkxjh; izns”k esa Likbl dh O;kikj djus esa leFkZ jgsA byk;ph dksbZ viokn ugha Fkh vkSj Iykbuh tSls bfrgkldkj lksprs Fksk fd byk;ph dk ewy vjsfc;k esa gSa ij Hkh] vjc O;kikj dh ,dkf/kdkj ij ij/kk Hkkjr esa leqnzh; jkLrk vkfoZHkko ij RkFkk iksrqZxhfl;ksa ds vkus ij [kre gks x;kA nf{k.k Hkkjr vkSj eq[;r% lHkh fo’k;ksa esa iqjkus le; ls dukZVd lao`) ns”k jg pqdk gSA dkfynkl fyf[kr j?kqoa”ke nf{k.k&Hkkjr dks jkT; djusokys ikafM; jkT; dks lao`) jkT; crk;k gS D;ksafd ;g byk;ph vkSj vU; Likblksa ls Hkjiwj jgkA fyadksLVu vius tuZy vkWQ bafM;u VªkoYl ¼1956½ esa nf{k.k Hkkjr esa mi;ksfxr 2 izdkj ds byk;ph ds ckjs esa crkrs gSA yMyks ¼ml le; taxyksa ds lgk;d laj{kd½ ds rFkk okWV ¼1872½ es Hkh nf{k.k Hkkjr esa byk;ph mit ds laca/k esa laf{kIr :Ik ls crkrs gSA fjMyh ¼1912½ ds vuqlkj] izkdfrd :Ik ls mit iSnk fd;s tkusokys ikS/kksa ls byk;ph ,d=.k dh ;g iz.kkyh yxHkx 1803 rd pyh] ij mlds ckn ekaWx cgqr vf/kd jgk vkSj Hkkjr esa cMh iSekus esa mit djuk ”kq: gks x;kA ;g Hkh izdV fd;k x;k fd vaxzsthljdkj }kjk Lok;Rr taxyksa esa byk;ph dks ,d QqVdj mit ds :Ik esa iSnk djrs Fks tcfd dwxZ taxyh {ks=ksa dks futh O;fDr;ksa dksk byk;ph iSnk djus ds fy, yht+ esa fn;k x;k FkkA Lora= ds ckn 1963 esa] byk;ph [ksrh dks lqj{k] laj{k.k rFkk o`f) djus ds fy, ^byk;ph fodkl rFkk foi.ku lykgdkjh lfefr^ dk xBu fd;k x;kA ckn esa 1966 esa byk;ph cksMZ dk fuekZ.k fd;k x;k; vkSj cknesa 19887 esa xgjs n`f’Vdks.k dks j[krs gq, cksMZ dks xgjs ifjf/k iznku fd;k x;k vkSj Likbll cksMZ uke fn;k x;k A fo”o ds fdlh Hkh txg esa dksbZ vkSj Likbl dks ,sls lqj{kk rFkk leFkZu iznku ugha fd;k x;k tSls nf{k.k Hkkjr esa byk;ph dks iznku fd;k x;k gSA byk;ph ,d vkd’kZd Likbl gS ftUgsa 100 chlh ds
62
in different phases. During 200 BC – 1200 the Romans started sailing from
Egypt to India to trade spices. In between 1200 to 1500 Europeans started
exploring passages to the East Indies. During the 15th – 17th centuries the world
witnessed wars for control of the spice trade. The Portuguese under Vasco-Da-
Gama opened the gateway for spice trade from the west coast. Many more
invaders followed. Portugal, England, Holland and others fought for
monopoly. In 1658 the Dutch gained control and established exclusive trading
rights from Malabar port. During the 16th -18th century the English exploration
began. First the Portuguese then the Dutch and French and at last the English.
In 1780 the Dutch and English fought a war over the spice trade which the
Dutch lost. All these incidents point towards the common fact that India was
the abode of spices. Virtually all the cardamom that existed in the ancient era
travelled from India and particularly from the southern belt including
Karnataka. During that time the Arabs were the major traders. They were
successful in trading of spices to the Mediterranean with out revealing the
source of the spice. Cardamom too was no exception and even historians like
Pliny thought that Cardamom originated in Arabia. However the curtains on
the monopoly of the Arab trade were brought down by the discovery of sea
route to India and by the landing of Portuguese. Southern India and in
particular Karnataka has been a prosperous land by all means since ancient
time. Kalidasa’s ‘Raghuvamsam’ describes the Pandya Empire that ruled South-
India as a prosperous one as it was bestowed in abundance with cardamom and
other spices. Linchosten in his Journal of Indian Travels (1596) describes two
forms of cardamoms being used in South India.. The writings of Ludlow (then
Asst. Conservator of Forests) and Watt (1872) also describes briefly about the
cardamom cultivation in South- India. According to Ridley (1912), this system
of cardamom collection from naturally growing plants continued till 1803 at
least, but in later years the demand became too large and large scale organised
cultivation was started in India. It is also revealed that, in the forest lands
owned by the British Government cardamom was a miscellaneous produce,
while in Coorg, forest lands were leased out to private individuals for
cardamom cultivation.
63
le; ds nkSjku dgk x;k Fkk fd ,d gkFk Hkj ds byk;ph ,d xjhch O;fDr dh iwoZdky ikfjJfed ds leku gSsA bfrgkl nf{k.k HkkjrrFkk dukZVd dks byk;ph dh ewy rFkk xq.krk ds fy, lk/kqokn nsrs gSaA dukZVd esa dwxZ gh byk;ph dk eq[; mRiknd gSA fpdexywj vkSj gklu esa byk;ph [ksrh fd;s tkus ij Hkh] dwxZ gh ,slk gS tks nksuksa xq.krk rFkk ifj.kkekRed nksuksa esa Js’B gS A ts- mRiknu dh rjhds byk;ph ,d Nk;k pkgusokys ikS/kkgSA bls nf{k.k Hkkjr ds igkMh txgksa esa O;kid :Ik ls [ksrh fd;k tkrk gS A ehu leqnzh; Lrj ls 800&1300 ehVj ÅaWpkbZ ds dwxZ esa taxyh tehuksa esa ,d vUMj Øki ds :Ik esa A xje vkSj xhys _rq] vkxsZfud lkexzh ls Hkjiwj mitkÅ feV~Vh] Ik;kZIr ueh rFkk vPNs forfjr o’kkZ dqN ewy ekud gS tks bykph dh vPNs mit ds fy, ewy t:jr gSA tehu esa vuqi;ksxh ikS/kksa dks feVkdj rS;kj fd;k tkrk gS vkSj fQj taxy dks fFkfuaxvkmV fd;k tkrk gS ftlls fd vko”;d Nk;k feysaA dwxZ iz.kkyh [ksrh esa] izFker% NksVh ek=k dh taxyh tehu] ftldh {ks=Qy DokVZj&1@6 gksrs gS] dks lkQ fd;k tkrk gS vkSj byk;ph cks;k tkrk gSA mRrj ;k mRrj iwohZ vksj ds QykVksa dks pquus ij tksj fn;k tkrk gS rkfd Ik;kZIr ikf”oZd Nk;k fey tk,aWA izkd`frd iqu%tuu ls ikS/kk dks fFku vkmV fd;k tkrk gS ;k ikS/ks dks ulZfj;ksa esa iSnk fd;k tkrk gS vkSj VªkULIykUV fd;k tkrk gSA 1-52 ehVj dh mFkyk xM~<k [kksnk trk gSA bl {ks= dks vkof/kd rkSj ij ?klikr fudkyk tkrk gSA eyckj izdkj ;gkaW [ksrh fd;s tkusokys ,d izdkj gSA 15 o’kksZa ds ckn] bl {ks= dks izkd`frd taxy ds fy, NksM+ fn;k tkrk gSA eyokj izdkj] tks ewyr% dwxZ gjk la?kfVr gS vkdkj esa ehfM;e gksrs gSa vkSj ifjiDo gksus ij 2&3 ehVj ÅaWpkbZ ds gksrs gSaA iRrksa dh i`’Bh; Hkkx ;kSouh; rFkk fpdus peM+sokys gksrs gSA iq’Ik xqPN ikaWo ij fxjk gqvk gksrs gS vkSj Qy Xykscksl&vkscykaWx vkdkj ds gksrs gSA bl izdkj dk byk;ph 600&1200 ehVj ÅaWpkbZ ds fy, mi;qDr gksrs gSaA eyckj izdkj fFkzIl nw’k.k ls de xzg.kh; gS A ;g de o’kkZ esa Hkh iy ldrk gSA nf{k.k&if”pe _rq dh vkxeu ds ckn dh vof/k] [ksrh djus ds fy, mi;qDr gSA cksus ls 5&7 gQrs esa cht mxrs gSA ikS/ks dks cksus ls 2&3 o’kZ ds ckn dsIlwy viukus yxrk gSA Qyuk lkekU;r% vizsy&ebZ
64
In the post independent era, in 1963, to preserve, protect and enhance
cardamom cultivation a ‘Cardamom Development and Marketing Advisory
Committee’ was constituted. Subsequently in 1966 the Cardamom Board was
formed and later in 1987 accepting a broader vision the board was conferred a
wider ambit and was named as the Spices Board.
No other spice anywhere in this world might have got such protection
and support as cardamom in South- India. Cardamom is such an exotic spice
that during the period of 1000 BC it was said that a hand full of cardamom
worth as much as a poor mans early wages. History acclaims the origin and
quality of cardamom to South- India and also to Karnataka. In Karnataka Coorg
is the prime producer of cardamom. Although Chikmagalur and Hassan
districts also grow cardamom, it is Coorg that stands supreme both
qualitatively and quantitatively.
(J) Methods of Production: Cardamom is a shade loving crop. It is grown extensively in the hilly regions of
South India , Coorg being one of the prominent destination, at elevations of 800
– 1300 m. above mean sea level as an under crop in forest lands. A warm and
humid climate, loamy soils rich in organic matter, with adequate moisture and
well distributed rain fall are certain basic earthly standards pre requisite for
good cultivation of cardamom. The land is prepared by removing under
growths and then thinning out forest trees to give the much required shades. In
the Coorg system of planting firstly small patches of forest land ,a quarter- one
sixth hectare in area , are cleared and planted with cardamom. Care is taken in
selecting plots that face north or north-east for ensuring adequate lateral shade.
Seedlings from natural regeneration are thinned out or seedlings are raised in
nurseries and transplanted. Shallow pits of 1.5-2.5m are dug. Area is weeded
periodically. Var. Malabar is the variety grown here. After 15 years the area is
left to natural forest. The Malabar variety, which basically constitutes the
COORG GREEN, is medium in size and attains 2-3m height on maturity. The
dorsal side of the leaves may be pubescent or glabrous. Panicles are prostrate
and the fruits are globose- oblong shape. This variety is better suited to areas of
600-1200m elevation. Malabar type is relatively less susceptible to thrips
infection. It can thrive under low rainfall conditions.
65
esa ;k mlds ckn “kq: gksrh gSA ;g ebZ&twu es vf/kdre gksrh gSA ;s Qy yxHkx Qyus ls 120 fnuksa esa ifjiDo gksrs gSA dsIlwy tks iw.kZ ifjiDork ls de gS mUgsa vDrwcj&uoacj ds nkSjku gh mit fd;k tkrk gSA pje _rq esa mit 15 fnuksa dh varjky esa fd;k tkrk gS] D;ksafd Qly dk nh?kZof/k o O;kid Qyus dh vof/k gksrh gS ftlls fd fofHkUu fifdax izsfjr dj nsrh gSA dukZVd esa fifdax lkekU;r% vxLr esa “kq: gksrh gS vkSj fnlacj&tuojh rd pyrk gSA lkekU;r% nks rjg ds fifdax gksrs gSaA izFke gS gYdk fifdax tgkaW ifjiDo dsilwy dks ek= mit fd;k tkrk gS tcfd f}rh; gS dBksj fifdax tgkaW v/kZ ifjiDo dsilwj dks Hkh gVk;k tkrk gSA mit djus ds ckn dh rduhd gh xq.krkiwoZd byk;ph dh lgh jh< dh gM~Mh gksrh gSA dsIlwy dk gjk jax dsilwy dh DyksjksfQy fo’k;oLrqvksa ds ,dkxzrk ls lh/ks vuqikfrd gSA bl izdkj rFkk mlds Dyksu ifjiDork vof/k ds ckn ds nkSjku vf/kd DyksjksfQy dks [kksus tSls yxrk gS vkSj blfy, bUgsa fid djus esa nsjh dsIlwy dh vafre gjsiu ij ck/kk igqaWpk ldrk gSA vkxs] mit ds ckn dsIlwy dks ikuh ls /kks;k tkrk gS rkfd mlls fNids feV~Vh vkSj vU; ckg~; lkefxz;ksa dks gVk ldsa vkSj fQj mls HkV~Vk esa lq[kkus ys tk ldsaA mit fd;s x;s Qly dh izkjafHkd uehiu Lrj dks de djus ds fy, rFkk dsIlwyksa dh gjsiu dks laj{k.k iznku djus ds fy, D;wfjax djus dh vko”;drk gSA blfy, mit ds le; dsIlwyksa dh lgh D;wfjax cgqr vko”;d gSA lkekU;r% nks rjg ds D;wfjasax rjhds dks viuk;k tkrk gSA tSls izkd`frd lw;Z ls lq[kkuk ¼byk;ph ds fy, mi;qDr ugh½ RkFkk vizkd`frd lq[kkbZA vizkd`frd rjhdksa esa ikbi D;wfjax ¼HkV~Vs esa lq[kkuk½ gh cgqr csgrj rjhdk gSA lw;Z ls lq[kkuk ;k Mªk;j }kjk D;wj fd;s byk;ph dks ueh vo”kks’k.k ls] fons”kh vkMZjksa] ekbØks vkxZfule ds lkFk nwf’kr gksus ls] vkSj vU; dhMs ls d’Vksa ls lqj{kk iznku djuk gSA ,sls mfpr iSfdax dh vko”;drk gksrh gSaA blds ckn mRikn dks mldh jax] otu] vkdkj rFkk jlk;fud miyC/kkksa ds vk/kkj ij oxhZd`r fd;k tkrk gsA byk;ph ds dqN izdkj mlds gjs jax dks j[k ysrs gSa tcfd dqN czkmu rFkk lksus jax ds cu tkrs gsA dqN vkSj Cyhp gksrs gSA dwxZ gjk byk;ph ;k dwxZ fDiM byk;ph ¼vU;rk dgk tkrk gS½ ,ysVsfj;k dsjMeksee dk ,d lw[ks dsIlwy izdkj dk gS ftUgsa dwxZ esa iSnk fd;k tkrk gS vkSjjax isy ihyk ls czkmu ds gksrs gS] Xykscy vkdkj fLdu fjCM;k ljy gksrs gSA isfMlsYl vyx fd;s gksrs gS tks bl izdkj dk vuks[kh Qhpj gSA
66
The period after the advent of the South- West monsoon is suitable for planting.
The seeds germinate after 5 -7 weeks of sowing. Cardamom starts bearing
capsules 2-3 years after planting the seedlings. Flowering commences mainly
during April-May or some times even a bit later. It is at the maximum during
May-June. The fruits mature in about 120 days after flowering. Capsules that
are just short of full ripeness are harvested mainly during the months of
October-November. In the peek season harvesting is carried out at an interval
of 15 days, as this crop has a prolonged and extensive flowering period thereby
inducing several pickings. In Karnataka picking usually starts by August and
continues till December- January. There exist mainly two types of pickings. The
first is light picking where in only mature capsules are harvested while the
second is hard picking where semi-matured capsules are also removed.
It is the post - harvesting techniques that form the true backbone of quality
cardamom. The green colour of the capsule is directly proportional to the
concentration of chlorophyll contents of the capsule. This variety as well as its
clones during the post ripening period tends to loose more chlorophyll and
hence delay in picking of these could affect the final greenness of the capsule.
Further, capsules after harvest are washed thoroughly in water to remove the
adhering soil and other extraneous matters and then taken for drying in kilns.
Curing is essential to bring down the initial moisture level of the harvested
crops and also to preserve the greenness of capsules. Thus proper curing of
capsules at harvest becomes very important. Generally two types of curing
methods are adopted viz natural sun drying (undesirable for cardamom) and
artificial drying. Among the artificial methods pipe curing (kiln drying) is one
of the best methods. Cardamom cured by sun drying or in a dryer, has to be
protected from absorption of moisture, contamination with foreign orders,
microorganisms and other insect infestations. Thus proper packing also
becomes necessary. Subsequently the produce is graded on the basis of its
colour, size, weight and chemical constituents. Some variety of cardamoms
retains its green colour while some others turn to brownish and golden colours.
Some others are bleached. COORG GREEN cardamom or Coorg clipped
cardamom (otherwise called) is the dried capsule variety of Eletteria
Cardamomum grown in Coorg, colour ranging from pale yellow to brown, global
67
iwfrZ fd;s x;s lkexzh dh jax dks tkjh j[kus rFkk laj{k.k djus fuEu D;wfjax rjhds rFkk laj{k.k rjhds dks viukrs gS 1- mldh okLrfod jax ftlesa mls mit fd;k x;k Fkk] mls izfr/kkj.k djus ds fy, byk;ph dks rqjar lq[kkuk 2- izFke 10&12 ?kaVs esa byk;ph dks 40 fMxzh lsUVhxzsM rFkk 50 fMxzh lsUVhxzsM ds chp :e rkieku esa HkaMkj.k djuk vkSj fQj ckdh D;wfjax vof/k esa mls 55 fMxzh rkieku esa o`f) djuk 3- D;wfjax djrs oDr dejs ls ueh dks ckgj fudkyus ds fy, lgh Nsn iznku djrkA ;g lw[kk djrs oDR gjs jax dks izfr/kkj.k djus ds fy, vko”;d gSA 4- dsIlwy ds fLiyfVax dks de djus ds fy, 65 fMxzh ls vf/kd dejs rkieku dks vf/kd djus rFkk egRo ifjorZu”khy rsy dh gkfu ls cps vkSj 5-mi;ksx ls] D;wj fd;s x;s byk;ph dsIlwy dks ikWfy’k djus ds ckn] rFkk mfpr HkaMkj {kerk ds fy, iSd djus ds fy, dkyk ikfyFkhu yku fd;s x;s xuh FkSyh rFkk ydMh ds ckWDl esa byk;ph dks HkaMkj.k djuk ds- vuks[kkiu dwxZ gjk byk;ph] Hkkjr ds cgqr gh iqjkus] cgqr gh izfln~/k rFkk okafNr byk;ph gSA ;g eyckj izdkj ds fpjLFkkbZ ikS/kk ,ysVSfj;k byk;ph ds iw.kZ ifjiDo vkSj lw[ks Qy gSa A bls Hkkjr ds dukZVd ds dwxZ ftyk] fpdexywj ftyk gklu ftyk vkSj mRrj dujk ftyk esa mit fd;k tkrk gSA vkSj ;g ysfVV~;wM 12 fMxzh mRrj ls 16 fMxzh mRrj vkSj ykaWfxV~;wM 74 fMxzh iwoZ ls 77 fMxzh iwoZ iwoZ ds chp jgrk gSA jsat gjk ls lksus ihys jax dk gksrk gS] bldk ekiu yxHkx 3-5&8 ,e,e Mk;ehVj gS ftldk fo”o vkdkj fLdu fjCM@ljy vkSj diwZj BaMh jax rFkk dBksj #fp gksrh gS vkSj mPp ek=k 1]8 flfu;ksy ¼41]0½ ds dkj.k ls ,d rkt+k izkko feyrk gS tcfd vkYQk&VsfiZukby vflVsV ¼30]0½ fo’k;oLrq rqyuh; gSA vkSj bl rjg dh byk;ph dk ,d fof”k’V Qhpj gS fd ;g cgqr /kkj.kh; gS vkSj lw[ksiu izfrjks/kh gSA vkSj ,d vifjgk;Z rF; tks bldh vuks[kkiu dks tksMrk gS og gS bldh ewy {ks= dk izkdfrd va”knkuA tSls fd Kkr gS feVVh [ksrh djus rFkk izR;sd Qly dh vkmDde esa eq[; vax viukrk gSA dukVZd ds byk;ph iSnk djusokys feV~Vh vf/kdrj mitkÅ feV~Vh gSA dukZVd ds feV~Vh ih
68
shape, skin ribbed or smooth; the pedicels separated, a unique feature of this
variety alone.
The methods of preservation and retention of colour of the finished product are
by the following method of curing and preservation;
1 -By drying the cardamom immediately after harvest to retain original colour
at which they are harvested,
2 -By maintaining the room temperature in which the cardamom is stored
between 40° to 50° C for the first 10 – 12 hours, and then to increase the
temperature to 55°C for the rest of the curing period,
3 -By providing proper openings for expelling the moisture from the room
while curing. This is essential to retain green colour during drying,
4 -Avoiding raising room temperature above 65°C in order to reduce splitting
of capsule and loss of vital volatile cardamom oil, and
5 -By the use, after polishing cured cardamom capsules, of black polythene
lined gunny bags for packing and storing the cardamom in wooden boxes for
better storage efficiency. (K) Uniqueness : Coorg Green Cardamom is one of the oldest, most popular and sought after
cardamom from India. It is the fully ripened and dried fruit of the perennial plant
Elettaria cardamomum of the Malabar variety.It is cultivated in the Coorg
District, Chickmagalur District, Hassan District, and North Kanara District of the
State of Karnataka, in India and lying within latitudes 12° N to 16° N and
longitudes 74°E to 77° E. It is having color range from greenish to golden yellow
color, measuring about 3.5 – 8 mm diameter, with global shape skin
ribbed/smooth, and having campharaceous cool odour with a harsh taste and a
refreshing effect due to the higher amount of 1, 8 cineole (41.0) while the alpha-
terpinyl acetate (30.0) content is comparable. Another distinct feature of this
variety is that it is more adaptable and drought resistant. Another inevitable
factor that adds to the uniqueness of this variety is the natural contribution of
the area of origin. As it is known soil plays a very major role in the cultivation
and outcome of every crop. The cardamom- growing soils of Karnataka are
mostly clay loam. The soil pH of Karnataka is higher and also the CEC( Cation
69
,p mPp gS vkSj vkSj dwxZ feV~Vh dk lhbZlh ¼ls”ku ifjorZu {kerk½ vU; by;ph iSnk djusokys txgksa ds rqyu esa vf/kd gSA vkxsZfud dkcZu fo’k;oLrq izfr Hkh vf/kd gSaA vU; feV~Vh ds xq.k/keZ rqyuh; gksus ij Hkh vkSlre] dukZVd ds dwxZ ls byk;ph feV~Vh esa ,u,p4vks,lh vkSj ,p,uvks3] vU; {ks=ksa ds rqyu esa mn~/kj.kh; ds de miyC/k gS dwxZ gjk byk;ph ds fy, vxzks DykbesfVd vkSj fQfl;ksxzkfQd “krsZa feV~Vh izdkj % ih,p
feV~Vhokyh ls Dys mitkÅ f/kd g~;welZ ds lkFk 3-8&5-8
o’kkZ ekSle
2000&300 ,e,e twu ls flracj rd 4 eghus ds fy, nf{k.k ekSle
rkieku 12&30 fMxzh ls vkfYVV~;wM 800&1300 ehVj ,e,l,y ds
Åij Lyksi tsUVy ls LVhi ,y- fujh{k.k ckWMh vkosnd us lwfpr fd;k gS fd os mfpr] O;fDrxr rFkk izHkkoh fujh{k.k ckWMh fuekZ.k djus ds fy, dne ys jgs gS ftlesa ckg~; lnL; gksaxsA
70
Exchange Capacity) of Coorg soils is higher than the soils of other cadamom
growing areas. The organic carbon content percentage is also at an up. On an
average the cardamom soils from Coorg in Karnataka contain much less
NH4OAC and HNO3, extractable K compared to soils of other areas though the
other soil properties are comparable.
Agro-climatic and physiographic conditions for Coorg Green Cardamom SOIL : TYPE : PH
Sandy to clay loam with more humors 3.8 – 5.8
RAINFALL MONSOON
2000 – 3900 mm South monsoon for four months from June to September.
TEMPERATURE
12 - 30 degree C
ALTITUDE
800 – 1300 meters above MSL
SLOPE
Gentle to Steep
(L) Inspection body: The applicants are taking steps to set up a suitable, independent and effective
inspection body involving external members.
71
72
th-vkbZ-&vkosnu la[;k& 95
;g vthZ fr:fp VsulZ la?k] la[;k 10] iqnqdksVS jksM] lsecVVq] fr:fp -
620007, rfey ukMw vkSj fnaMqdy Vsuj la?k] 227/86] ch enqjS jksM] csxecqj] fnaMdy
rfeyukMw us Hksth gS AbZ vkbZ peM+k ¼yskxks½ ds iath ds Hkkx ^v* esa vkSj ml iath ds
vthZ vad 95 esa iathd`r djus ds fy, vthZ Hksth xbZ gS A oxZ 18 ds varxZr vku s
okys dkQh HkkSxksfyd eky min'kZu ¼iathd`r vkSj cpko ½ fof/k] 1999 ds Hkkx 13 ds
miHkkx ¼1½ esa Lohdkj djus gsrq foKkiu ;gk¡ fn;k x;k gS A
vkosnd dk uke % 1- fr:fp VsulZ la?k
lkslkbVh jftLVªlu la[;k- 33/88
2- fnaMqdy Vsuj la?k
lkslkbVh jftLVªlu la[;k- 38/85
irk % 1- fr:fp VsulZ la?k] la[;k 10] iqnqdksVS jksM] lsecVVq]
fr:fp -620007, rfey ukMw
2- fnaMqdy Vsuj la?k] 227/86] ch enqj S jksM] csxecqj]
fnaMdy rfeyukMw
Hkk Sxksfyd min'kZu % bZ vkbZ peM+k ¼yskxks laYXu fd;k tk;sxk½
oxZ % 18
eky% peM+k
73
G.I. – APPLICATION NUMBER 95 Application is made by the Trichy Tanners Association, No. 10, Pudukkottai
Road, Sembattu, Trichy – 620 007,Tamil Nadu and The Dindigul Tanners
Association, 227/86, B Madurai Road, Begambur, Dindigul, Tamil Nadu for
registration in Part A of the register of E.I. Leather (Logo) under Application
No 95 in respect of Leather falling in Class 18 is hereby advertised as accepted
under sub-section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods
(Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
Applicant : 1. The Trichy Tanners Association Society Registration No. 33/88 2. The Dindigul Tanners Association Society Registration No. 38/85 Address : 1. No. 10, Pudukkottai Road, Sembattu, Trichy – 620 007. Tamil Nadu 2. No. 227/86, B Madurai Road, Begambur, Dindigul. Tamil Nadu. Geographical Indication : E.I. LEATHER
Class : 18 Goods : Leather
74
d½ vkosnd dk uke % 1- fr:fp VsulZ la?k
lkslkbVh jftLVªlu la[;k- 33/88
2- fnaMqdy Vsuj la?k
lkslkbVh jftLVªlu la[;k- 38/85
[k½ irk % 1- fr:fp VsulZ la?k] la[;k 10] iqnqdksVS jk sM] lsecVVq]
fr:fp -620007, rfey ukMw
2- fnaMqdy Vsuj la?k] 227/86] ch enqjS jksM] csxecqj]
fnaMdy rfeyukMw
¼x½ O;fä /mRiknd/ laxBu / ekaxs tkus ij fn;s tk;sxk
izkf/kdkj la?k dh lwfp%
¼?k½ ekyksa dk oxZ % rS;kj eky] peM+k
¼M+½ fufnZfûdj.k %
jax jax gYdk cht/ gYdk lqugjk ihyk jax
Lokn vLVªhtsaV
Vsafly {kerk yxHkx 180 fdykxzk-/ lseh2
fldqM+us dk rkieku yxHkx 85 fMxzh- lsxz
Vsust dk fMxzh yxHkx 40%
Xak/k lfCt }kjk Vsufd, gq, peM+s dk xa/k
vkokt vyx xq.k gkFk dke fd, tkus ij dszdfyax
vkokt
¼p½ HkkSxksfyd min'kZu ds uke ¼vkSj fooj.k½ %
bZ vkbZ peM+k ¼yskxks laYXu fd;k tk;sxk½
75
(A) Name of the Applicant : 1. The Trichy Tanners Association Society Registration No. 33/88 2. The Dindigul Tanners Association Society Registration No. 38/85 (B) Address : 1. No. 10, Pudukkottai Road, Sembattu, Trichy – 620 007. Tamil Nadu 2. No. 227/86, B Madurai Road, Begambur, Dindigul. Tamil Nadu. (C) List of association of persons /
Producers / organization / Authority : To be provided on request.
(D) Type of goods : Manufactured goods, leather (E) Specification Characteristic Light Beige Colour : / Pale Golden Yellow Colour Taste : Astringent Tensile Strength : About 180 Kg/ Cm2
Shrinkage Temperature : About 85˚ C Degree of Tannage : About 40% Smell : Characteristic Fragrance of Vegetable
Tanned Leather Smell Sound : Exclusive Characteristic of crackling Sound if handled by hand.
76
N½ Ekky dk fooj.k
;g mRikn dPps [kky rFkk peM+s ls curk gS A ftls /kwi esa >qylkdj peM+k
cuk;k tkrk gS A bl th vkbZ mRikn dks cukus dh iqjkuh izfdz;k vuks[kh gS A ftls
'kq+) lfCt;ksa ds jl rFkk lfCt;k sa ls fudyus okys vU; phtksa ls curk gS AlkFk gh
fofHkUu voLFkkvksa esa ekuo dh dq'kyrk ds ikjaifjd uql[kks a dks viukdj fd;k tkrk g S
A dPps [kky dks peM+k cukus dsh izfdz;k vius vki esa vuks[kk dk;Z gS A fofHkUu
voLFkkvksa esa lwjt dh jks'kuh esa rFkk vPNh rjg ds ikuh ds iz;ksx djus ls dPps
peM+s esa tks ifjorZu vkrk gS og cgqr gh vuks[kk gS A lkFk ekSle Hkh bldh xq.koÙk
esa viuks ;ksxnku nsrk gS A bZ vkbZ peM+s dk viuk vuks[kkiu gS A tks peM+s ds Hkhrj
Nqik jgrk gS A bldh vkokt] bldk vuqHko] fo'ks"k lqxa/k] bldk izkdfrd xq.k gYdk
jax] lHkh bldh ekSfyd xq.k gS A tks bZ vkbZ Vsfuax {ks= izkdfrd HkkSxksfyd okrkoj.k d s
varxZr fn[kkbZ iM+rs gSa A
¼t½ mRifr dk HkkSxksfyd {sk= vkSj uD'kk % 100
;s b- vkb Z peM+k rkfeyukMw essa fo'k s"k dj fr:ph] fnaMdy] vjdksV ftyk ds
mrj vkSj iYykoje esa mRiUu gksrk gS A dkWyk sfu;y le; ds nk Sjku peM+s tSls izeq[k
lkeku dks okf.kfT;d cuk;k x;k A mu fnuksa O;kikj] cktkj] nwdku] jsyos vkSj
canjxkgksa us bl iwjs mn;ksx dks LFkkfir djus esa eq[; Hwkfedk fuHkkbZ Amu mn;ksx ,d
mn;ksx [kky dks >qylkdj peM+k cukuk Fkk A blfy, dydÙk ] cacbZ] vkSj enzkl
[kky dks >qylkdj peM+k cukus dk eq[; dsanz Fkk vk Sj dWykfu;y 'kklu ds nk Sjku cgqr
ls peM +ds dkj[kkus LFkkfir fd;s x;s A nwljh eq[; ckr dPps eky tSls dPpk [kky]
lfCt;ksa dk vEy rFkk fczfV'k Nkouh esa izkIr ?kj vkfn dh miyfC/k A blfy, peM+s d s
dkj[kkus enzkl] fr:fp] Dkuiqj] caxywj rFkk ve`rlj esa LFkkfir fd;s x;s A
blh rjg iYykoje] enzkl dk vfodflr {ks= ] fr:fp vk Sj fnaMdy ds 200
ehy nf{k.k] vacwj ds 110 ehy if+'pe esa izFke fo'o ;q) ds dqN igys rFkk nkSjku gh
n'kZuh; o`f) ns[kkh xbZ A bl {sk= esa Hkkjr ds lcls vPNs lfCt;ksa ds vEy tSls
nf{k.k Hkkjrh; vOokje ckdZ ¼dsfl;k vkWfjdqykVk½ lsye ekbjksckyu uV ¼Vjfeusfy;k
psC;qyk½ vkSj nf{k.k Hkkjrh; dksUuke ckdZ ¼dsfl;k fQLV;qyk½ fey tkrs gSa A bZ vkb
77
(F) Name of the Geographical Indication (and particulars):
1. E.I. Leather. (LOGO)
(G) Description of goods: The product is leather made out from raw hides and skins, which are
Vegetable Tanned. The Age-old process followed to manufacture this G.I.
Product is unique with respect to use of pure vegetable extracts and other
materials of vegetable origin, combining the Human Skill involved in various
stages with traditional recipes. The uniqueness of Tanning lies in
understanding the visual changes that the skin exhibits in various stages on
examination in sunlight and quality of water used in the process. Also the
weather contributes to its quality. E.I. Leather has its own uniqueness that is
hidden with in the skin. Its unmistakable sound, its feel, specific fragrance, its
natural characteristic light beige colour, all are its individual characters
exhibited under the influence of natural Geographical environment prevailing
in the E.I tanning area.
(H) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no 100. These E.I. Leathers are produced in Tamil Nadu predominantly in
Trichy, Dindugal, part of North Arcot District and Pallavaram. Leather was the
most important commodity that commercialized during the colonial period. In
those days trade, markets, Railways and Ports have played major role in
transformation of whole range of industries. One such industry is Tanning.
Thus Calcutta, Bombay and Madras were main destinations of Tanned Leather
and more Tanneries were established during colonial regime. Another
important thing is availability of Raw Materials like Raw skins, Vegetable
Tannins and Housing of British Army in Cantonments. Hence the Tanneries
were established in Madras, Trichy, Kanpur, Bangalore and Amritsar etc.
78
>qyls gq, [kky dk gYdk cht jax rFkk fof'k"V lqxa/k bUgha lfCt;ks a ds vEy ls izkIr
fd;k tkrk gS A
vokje ckdZ mÙj Hkkjr ds vEyksa esa lcls mÙe ekuk tkrk gS vkSj bldk
lcls vPNk iz;ksx peM+s esa fd;k tkrk gS A thfor lkexzh esa ;g {ks= vfrfjDr dkjd
ykHkiw.kZ gSa A cdjh vkSj HksM+ enzkl izsfljMsalh tSls txgska esa jgrs gSa ,sls lw[ks vkSj xe Z
txg tkuoj ds fy, cgqr vf/kd vuqdwy gSa A lkFk gh jsyos enzkl] fr:fp rFkk bjksM
ds lkFk ,d foLrr txg ij rfeyukMw ls ysdj nf{k.k vk a/kzk] dsjyk QSyk gqvk gS vk Sj
nDdu ls mM+hlk rd [kky Hk strk gS A ;g izkdfrd lqfo/kk tks 'kgj ds fodkl
lgk;rk nsus ds lkFk lkFk izoklh etnwjks dh eafty cuh xbZ A vxzjsfj;u etnwj tkfr
ls Hkh ;gka fo'k s"k dj izk;kjl tks bZ vkbZ Vsfuax ds dke esa cgqr egkjFkh gS] Hkh ;gka
dke djrs gSa A tc bldk izkjaHk gqvk rc ls ysdj vkt rd fr:fp vkSj fnaMqdy
vHkh bZ vkbZ peM+k mRIkUu dj jgk gS tcfd nwljs Vsfuax dsanz us dzkse Vsfuax dks viuk
fy;k gS Aizekf.kr esi igys gh Hkstk tk pqdk gS A
¼>½ mRif�k dk lcwr ¼,sfrgkfld½ %
Lkgklh osusfV;u jktukf;d us ekdksZiksyks us 13oha lnh esa vius Hkkjr ds ;k=k ds
ckjs esa crk;k vk Sj Hkkjr dsa >qyls gq, peM+s ds oL= ds ckjs esa Hkh ftdz fd;k A [kky
dks >qylkus dh rduhd eqxy dky cgqr vf/kd ifjorZu ls gksdj xqtjh A lcwr rFkk
fjdkMZ eqxy dky ds nkSjku fofHkUu peM+s dh lkexzh rFkk lkFk gh flDds esa Hkh fey
tkrs gSa A fczfV'k bZLV bafM;k daiuh us Hkkjr esa viuk dk;Z izkjEHk fd;k vkSj ftlls dh
vko';d lkexzh dk O;kikj lLrs esa gksrk gS rFkk QkSt ls lacaf/kr lkeku dks lfCt;sk a
}kjk Vsfuax djus dks ;wjksih; fof/k esa LFkkfir fd;k A lcls igyk cM+s iSekus ij 1805
esa FkkWel isjh us lsu FkkWe enzkl esa LFkkfir fd;k A mlds ckn vkslqj] caxyksj rFkk
psUubZ esa LFkkfir fd;k x;k gS A
19oha lnh ds vkjEHk rd nf{k.k vOokje Vsfuax [kky rFkk peM+s ds Vsfuax ds
fy, e'kgwj Fkk A gok ds laidZ esa vkus ij peM+k dk jax cny tkrk gS tks ns'kh;
VsuM peM+k dk vyx xq.k gS A 1804 esa ,d nwljk egRoi.kZ fodkl gqvk tc ikafMpsjh
79
Similarly Pallavaram, a suburb of Madars, Trichy and Dindigul 200 miles
South, Ambur about 110 miles west, witnessed a spectacular growth of
Tanneries shortly before and during the First World War. The region enjoyed
proximity to the best Vegetable Tannins in India, the South India Avaram Bark
(Cassia Auriculata) Salem Myrobalan Nuts (Terminalia chebula) and South
India Konnam Bark (Cassia Fistula). The characteristic light beige color and
exclusive fragrance of E.I.Tanned Leather were imparted from these vegetable
Tannins.
Avaram Bark was generally acknowledged to be superior to the North
Indian Tanins and its best use was in skins. An added factor in the choice might
have relative advantages of regions in live stock. The Madras presidency’s lay
in goat and sheep, animals more adaptable to drier and drought prone regions.
Further Railways connected Madras, Trichy and Erode with a wide area
stretching from Tamil Nadu Country side to the Southern Andhra, Kerala and
from the Deccan to Orissa supplying skins. To these natural advantages were
added the growth of the cities resulting as a destination of migrant Labour/ the
main body of manual workers drawn from agrarian Labour castes, chiefly the
“PARAYARS” who have mastered the art of E.I. Tanning process. In light of
the above reasons, Trichy and Dindigul continue to produce E.I. Leather ever
since its existence till today where as other Tanning Centres have mostly
switched over to chrome Tanning. Certified Map already sent.
(I) Proof of origin: (Historical records) Traveller – Adventurer Venetian Diplomat, Marco polo extensively
reported about his travels in India in the 13th century and mentioned about the
use of Tanned Leather Dress in India. The Tanning Technology under went
many changes during mogul period. Evidences and records are available on
various use of leather including coins during mogul periods. The British East
India Company assumed administrative functions in India and in order to
merchandise cheaply the essential items such as leather and army related
leather accessories, tanneries were set up based on European methods of
vegetable Tanning. The first large sized Tannery was set up in India by Thomas
Parry in 1805 in San Thome, Madras followed by three more in Hoosure,
Bangalore and Chennai.
80
Qszap ;qjfl;u pkylZ Mh lqtk us peM+s ds Vsfuax dh ,d ,slh rduhd pykb Z ftle sa
ekbjskcsyku ¼Vjfeusfy;k psC;qyk½ dk iz;k sx fd;k tkrk gS ftlls vOokje ckdZ d s
VsuM lfCt;ksa ls vDlhdj.k ds dkj.k tks jax dkyk gksrk gS ] mldks jksdk tk ldrk g S
aA ftlus izfl) bZLV bafM;k Vsfuax rduhd dk izkjaHk fd;k A tks vHkh Hkh fcuk fdlh
ifjorZu ds pyk vk jgk gS A 1857 ds izFke fo'o ;q) ds ckn fczVh'k ljdkj u s
eglwl fd;k fd baxySM ls fczVh'k Qk St rd eky dk s Hkstuk nwjh ds dkj.k ck/kk mRiUu
gksrh Fkh vkSj nwljs dkj.kksa ls Hkh mUgks aus vkSj Vsujh Hkkjr esa yxkbZ fo'ks"k :Ik ls enzkl
vkSj vf/kd [kky dk dkj[kkuk fr:fp] fnaMdy] vkSj mÙj vjdksV es yxk;k Amlds
;wjksih; ns'kksa yaMu] Qzkal] Lisu] bVyh] teZuh vkSj tkiku esa Hkh bZ vkbZ peM+s dk
fu;kZr tksj idM+us yxk A
1850 ls gh fr:fp dk Vsfuax ls lacaf/kr bfrgkl gS A 17 vizSy 1851 esa ,d
O;kikj dkamfly dh cSBd enzkl ds dkWysst esa gqbZ] tks 1851 esa yanu esa gksus okys
Hkkjrh; mn;k sx izn'k Zuh dh rS;kjh ds fy, FkkA ;g dkmafly fofy;e vdZqgVZ vcZqFkkukWV
ds }kjk pyk;k x;k Fkk A bles dPps [kky vkSj peM+s] lfCt;ks a }kjk VsuM peM+s
fr:fp ds lfCt ds jax rFkk vU; tkuojksa ds mRikn dks Hkh izn'kZuh esa j[kk x;k Fkk
vkSj yanu ds izn'k Zuh esa fu;kZr ds fy, bartkj dj jgs Fks A peM+ksa dks fr:fp ds
dksaMfiyh ds dksue ckdZ ¼dkfl;k fQLV;wyk½ ] rksaxkMw ck sdZ ¼dkfl;k vkWfjD;qykVk½ ls
Vsu fd;k tkrk gS A ;g izn'kZuh cgqr vf/kd lQy jgh vkSj Hkkjrh; dPps [kky rFkk
peM+s ] lfCt;ksa }kjk Vsu fd, gq, peM+¼bZ- vkbZ peM+s ½s us vPNk iSlk olwy fd;k A
1915 esa peM+s dk O;kikj laLFkk ok'kjeuisV] enzkl esa vkjaHk fd;k x;k vk Sj Jh
,- xqFkzs ,e- ch- lh dks peM+s ds Kkrk rFkk fizafliy vkSj jktkefude uk;Mq mi
fizafliy ds rkSj ij fu;qDr gq, Aenzkl izsflMsalh ds VsulZ ml le; tks ftu rduhdh
leL;kvksa dk lkekuk djrs Fks ] ds lek/kku ds fy, bl laLFkk dh lykg ysrs Fks vkSj
bl laLFkk us peMs+ ds rduhddkj dsk tUe fn;k A
81
Until the beginning of 19th century, avaram tanning was popular for tanning of
skins and hides in South but tended to produce leathers that on exposure to air
underwent fawn red discoloration which was the distinguishing feature of
county tanned leather. Another significant Development took place in the
1804’s when a French Eurasian in Pondicherry, Charles De Susa, introduced
Techniques of Leather Tanning using Myrobalan (Terminalia Chebula) to
prevent darkening of colour on oxidation of locally produced avaram bark
tanned vegetable leather with some modification in process and this created the
famous East India (E.I.) Tanning Technology that has endured till today, almost
unchanged. After the first war of Independence in 1857, the British realized
that as supplies from England to the British Army in India were severely
impeded by distance and other factors, they setup additional Tanneries in India
particularly in Madras and more Tanneries in Trichy, Dindigul and North
Aroct. There after E.I. Leather export picked up in European Countries namely
London, France, Spain, Italy, Germany and also Japan.
E.I. Leather from India is listed in leather markets in the world today.
Trichy has the History of connection to Tanning since 1850. On 17th April
1851, a trade council meeting was held at College Road in Madras, which was a
preparation for an Indian Industrial Exhibition in London in 1851. The council
was led by William Urquhart Arbuthanot. In this there were raw hides and
skins, vegetable Tanned leather from Trichy Vegetable dyes and other Animal
bye products were on display and waiting for export for display in London
Exhibition. The skins were tanned with Konnam bark (cassia fistula) from
Condpilly, Tungadoo Bark (cassia auriculata) from Trichy. The exhibition was a
great success and Indian Raw hides and skins, Vegetable Tanned Leather (E.I.
Leather) fetched a good price.
In the year 1915, a leather trade institute was opened in
Washermanpet, Madras with Mr. A. Guthrie M.B.C., as leather expert and
Principal and Mr. Rajamanickam Naidu as Vice Principal. The Tanners of
Madras Presidency consulted the institute for solving certain Technical
problems that the Tanneries faced in those days and the Institute produced
good number of leather Technicians.
82
×k½ mRiknu fof/k
bZ vkbZ Vsfuax ewy fof/k]ftlds fy, LFkkuh; txgksa esa izkIr Vsfuax lkeku fo'ks"k
:I ls vOokje vkSj ekbjksckyke dks dzfed fodkl ds Hkstk tkrk gS ftlls fd ifjJe
rFkk izfdz;k dh vof/k dsk de fd;k tk lds vkSj lkFk gh mRikn dsk vPN cuk;k tk
lds ij peM+s ds vkSj vU; egRoiw.kZ xq.k oSls gh jgrs gSa A vkt dy Vguh ls Bksl
;k ikmMj :i esa isM+ ds Vguh ds Nky ¼vdkfl;k eksfykflek okbYM½ ls fudys inkFkZ
dks iz;ksx vOokje ckdZ d s lkFk peM+s dh Vsfuax ds fy, fd;k tkrk gS A D;ksafd ble sa
vOokje ckdZ ds 18 izfr'kr Vsfuax daVsaV dh vis{kk 35 izfr'kr Vsfuax dk lkeku gS A
Vguh ckdZ dks Bksl ;k ikmMj ds :i esa fudkyk tkrk gS vkSj tc [kky esa iz;ksx fd;k
tkrk gS A blfy, Vsfuax dk le; cgqr ?kV tkrk gS vkSj gYds jax dk bZ vkbZ peM+k
mRiUu djrk gS tks ns'kh rFkk fons'kh [kjhnnkjksa }kjk cgqr ilan fd;k tkrk gS A bl
izfdz;k ds fy, iz;qDr gksus okyk ikjaifjd rjhdk tks ekSfyd xzFka esa ch- ,e- nkl u s
fy[kk gS A ftUgksusa la[;k 40] enzkl cqysfVu ] mn;ksx foHkkx ls izkIr gksus okys
tkudkjh dk mi;ksx fd;k A estj ,- xqFkjs }kjk fyf[kr nf{k.k Hkkjr dk Vsfuax O;kikj
dks uhps fn;s x;k gS A ftlls fd 20 oha lnh gq, cnyko dks fQj ls mRiUu dj iz'kkalk
dh tk lds A
[kky vk Sj peM+s ds fy, ikjaifjd bZ vkbZ Vsfuax izfdz;k
Ikkuh esa lks[kus dh izfdz;k
xM<s esa peM+ksa dks lks[k dj j[kk tkrk gS] ftUgsa lk/kkj.kr;k tehu ls dqN mapk
cuk;k tkrk gS A izR;sd Vsujh esa peM+s dks lk s[kus ds xM<k dk vkdkj vyx vyx
gskrk gS A cgqr ls Vsujh esa xM<k 4 QhV pkSM+k vkSj 2 QhV xgjk gksrk gS A rkts peMk sa
dks 2 ls 3 ?k aVs rd ikuh esa lks[kk tkrk gS A mlds ckn iSj ls jkSank tkrk gS ftlls fd
mldk ued pyk tk; vkSj eqyk;e djus ds fy, mUgsa ikuh ls /kks;k tkrk gS A lw[k s
uedokys peM+ksa dks jkrHkj ikuh esa Mwck dj j[kk tkrk gS A nwljs fnu lqcg mUgsa cYys
ds ?kj esa rksM+k tkrk gS ]tks mUgsa vPNh rjg f[kaprs gSa vkSj mUgsa fcuk /kkj okys pkd w
ds esadsfudy fdz;k ls eqyk;e cuk;k tkrk gS A lw[ks peM+ksa dks cgqr ls Vsujh esa 24
83
(J) Method of Production: The original method of E.I. Tanning, which employed locally available
tanning material chiefly, avaram and myrobalams undergone evolution
primarily to reduce drudgery, duration of processing as well as to improve the
yield but retaining all other important characteristics of the leather. Now a
days wattle extract in solid and powder form extracted from wattle bark tree
(Acacia Mollissima Wild) is used in entire super session of avaram bark for
Tanning of skins as this contains 35% Tanning contents compared to 18%
Tannins present in avaram bark. Wattle bark extract in the form of powder or
solid when processed in drum penetrates the pelt very quickly thus shortening
the time of tanning greatly and produces fairly light colured E.I. Leather which
is liked by both domestic and foreign buyers. The traditional process followed
for the process as also given in the monograph by B.M.Das, who had used the
information available from Department of Industries, Madras Bulletin No. 40
entitled Handbook of the Tanning Trade of South India by Major A.Gutherie, is
given below so as are reproduced to appreciate the changes that have happened
primarily in the20thcentury.
Traditional E.I. Tanning process for the hides and skins:
Soaking: The skins are soaked in pits, which are usually built above floor level.
The size of the soaking pits varies from tannery to tannery. In many tanneries
the pits are 4 feet square and 2 feet deep. Fresh skins are soaked in these pits in
2 to 3hours, then trampled to remove the salt and to soften after which they are
washed with water. Dry salted skins are left overnight in the soak water. Next
morning they are broken over the beam house, which stretches them out and
considerably softens them by the mechanical action of the blunt edge of the
unhairing knife with which they worked. Dry skins are soaked for 24 to 36
hours in many tanneries in water alone with 0.1 per cent solution of caustic
soda. Certain amount of bleaching powder is a useful addition to the soak pit to
prevent putrefaction.
84
ls 36 ?kaVs ds fy, 0-1 izfr'kr dkfLVd lk sMk ds lkFk lks[kdj j[kk tkrk gS A peM+s dk s
lM+us ls cpkus ds fy, dqN fCyfpax ikmMj x<Mksa esa Mky nsuk vf/kd mi;ksxh gS A
uhacw yxkuk
lks[ks gq, peM+ksa ij fQj uhacw Mkyk tkrk gS A HksM+ dk peM+k ftlesa mu gksrk g S
mlds xqns ds rjQ uhacw dk eksVk isLV yxk;k tkrk gS A izR;sd VqdM+s dks caMy ds :Ik
esa eksM+k tkrk gS A caMy fd, gq, peM+ksa dk jkr Hkj j[kk tkrk gS vkSj nwljs fnu lqcg
efgyk;sa mu dks [khap dj fudky nsrh gSa tks vius maxfy;ks a ls mu dks idM+dj [khaprh
gS vkSj isafly ds lkeku ydM+h dk NkssVk VqdM+k Hkh [khaprh gS tc iSj ls peM+s dks
nckrh gS A dkys vkSj lQsn nk suksa rjg ds mu dks vyx vyx <sj esa j[kk tkrk gS A
tks ckn esa igys ls T;knk vPNk iSlk olwy djrk gS A mu fudkys gq, peM+s dks iqjku s
uhacw dss ikuh esa j[kk tkrk gS A HksM+ vk Sj cdjh ds cky vkSj peM+s ftldk dksb Z
okf.kfT;d ewY; ugha gS] dks iqjkus uhacw ds ikuh esa lh/ks j[k fn;k tkrk gS A uhacw d s
ikuh ds xM<s 4 QhV pkSdksj vkSj 2 QhV xgjs gksrs gSa tks tehu ds uhps gksrs gSa A uhacw
dk ikuh ftlls cgqr ls peM+s xqtj pqds gSa dks iqjkuk le>k tkrk gS A uhacw ds ikuh
dks Mky dj bldh {kerk dsk c<k;k tkrk gS A bl uhacw dks gYds cqus gq, Vksdjh e sa
ysuk vf/kd mfpr gksxk vkSj uhacw d s ikuh ls Hkj xM<s ftles uhacw ds ikuh ds eksV s
inkFkZ iM+s gksrs ] esa Mqck fn;k tkrk gS A xanxh Vksdjh esa Hkj tkrs gS A rc uhacw d s
ikuh dks vPNh rjg ls feyk;k tkrk gS ftlls uhps tes gq, uhacw rFkk ikuh vPNh rjg
ls fey tk; A mUgsa 8 ls 10 fnu ds fy, iqjkus uhacw esa j[kk tkrk gS ftl nkSjku mUg sa
fudky fy;k tkrk gS vkSj xM<s dks pkjksa <sj dj fn;k tkrk gS ] uhacw ds ikuh dks
feyk;k tkrk gS vkSj peM+s dsk okil j[kk tkrk gS A blds ckn cky ;k mu dks vo'ks"k
dkQh <hys gks tkrs gSa ftlls fd cky vklkuh ls fudys tk lds A che ij cky
fudkyus dh fdz;k ges'kk dh rjg gh djuk pkfg, A fcuk cky fudkys peM+s dks fQj
ls rkts uhacw ds ikuh esa 4 ls 6 fnu ds fy, j[kk tkrk gS ] [khapk tkrk gS ] uhacw esa
feyk;k tkrk gS vkSj peM+s dks jkst okil j[kk tkrk gS A u;s uhacw ds ikuh esa Qwy
tkrs gSa A iwjs uhacw dh izfdz;k ds fy, izR;sd peM+s ds fy, 1 ikmaM uhcw dh vko';drk
iM+rh gS A
85
Liming: Soaked skins are limed. Sheep skins having wool are coated on the flesh
side with a thick paste of lime and folded up into bundle piece by piece. The
bundled skins are kept overnight and next morning the wool is pulled out by
women who grip the wool with their fingers and a short piece of wooden rod
like a pencil while pressing the skin with their feet. Black and white wool are
kept in separate heaps as the latter fetches higher price than the former. The
dewooled skins are put in old lime liquor. The hair sheep and goat skin whose
hair is of no commercial value is put in to the old lime liquor straightaway. The
lime pits are 4 feet square and 2 feet deep sunk below the fllor. The lime liquor
through which one lot of skins has passed may be considered as old. It is
strengthened by the addition of some slaked lime. It is advisable to take this
lime in a loosely woven basket and partially immerse it in the lime liquor of the
pit retaining the coarser particles of the lime and its gritty impurities in the
basket. The lime liquor is then thoroughly stirred to mix up the lime sediment
with the water. The skins are then thrown in and immersed in the liquor one by
one. They are kept in the old lime for 8 to 10 days during which period they are
taken out and piled on the sides of the pit, the lime liquor stirred up and the
skins put back every day. After this time the hair or the remnant of the wool
becomes sufficiently loose to allow the unhairing to be done. Unhairing is done
in the usual way on beam. The unhaired skins are put into fresh lime liquor for
4 to 6 days, hauling up, stirring the lime and putting the skins back every day.
In the new lime liquor they swell up. For total liming about 1 lb. Shell lime
required per skin.
Washing, fleshing and scudding: Washing after liming is done in the pits, which are built above the floor,
level in order that the water after washing may be easily run out. The pits are 5
to 8 feet square and 2 feet 6 inch deep. Skins are washed in 8 to 20 changes of
water, over a period of 3 to 96 hours depending upon the nature of skins. The
better the quality of the skins the more will be the washing. Between these
washings the skins are fleshed and scudded.
86
/kqykbZ ] xqnk fudkyuk vkSj LdfMax
Ukhacw yxkus ds ckn /kqykbZ dh fd z;k xM<s esa dh tkrh gS] ftls tehu ds mij
cuk;k x;k gS ] ftlls /k qykbZ ds ckn ikuh vius vki cg tkrk gS A xM<s 5 ls 8 QhV
pkSdksj vkSj 2 ls 6 bap xgjs gksrs gSa A peM+ks dks 8 ls 20 ckj ikuh cny dj 3 ls 96
?kaVs esa /kks;k tkrk gS tks peM+s dh izdfr ij fuHkZj djrk gS A ftruh vf/kd /kqykb Z
gksxh mruh vPNh xq.koÙk dk peM+k gksxk Abu /kqykbZ;ksa ds chp ekal fudkyuk rFkk
LdM fd;k tkrk gS A
Ekakl fudkyus dk dk;Z ,d le; esa ,d peM+s dks che ij j[kdj fd;k tkrk gS
A ekal fdukjs gks tkrs gSa A pkdw ds }kjk ekal fudkyk tkrk gS A cgqr ls peM+ksa dk s
che ij j[kus ls ekal fdukjs gks tkrs gSa A uhacw yxs gw, peM+ksa dks xM<s ds ikuh esa
Mkyk tkrk gS vkSj cgrs gq, ikuh esa nks ckj cnydj /kk s;k tkrk gS A mlds ckn che
esa mudk ekal fudkyk tkrk gSS A mlds ckn mudks fQj nks ckj ikuh cny dj cgrs
gq, ikuh esa /kks;k tkrk gS A mlds ckn peM+ksa dks LdV fd;k tkrk gS A blds ckn
peM+ksa dks fQj ls /kks;k tkrk gS A /qkyk gqvk xank ikuh cg tkrk gS vk Sj lkQ ikuh e sa
peM+ksa dks jkr Hkj lk s[kdj j[kk tkrk gS A nwljs fnu nwljh ckj ekal fudkyk tkrk g S
vkSj mlds ckn cgrs gq, ikuh esa nks ckj ikuh cnydj /kks;k tkrk gS vkSj nwljh ckj
LdM fd;k tkrk gS A blds ckn cgrs gq, fQj mUgsa nks ckj /kks;k tkrk gS vkSj lkQ
ikuh esa jkr Hkj ds fy, Mqck dj j[kk tkrk gS ] nwljs fnu lqcg fQj ls bldks nks ckj
ikuh cny dj /kks;k tkrk gS A mlds ckn LdM fd;k tkrk gS] cgrs ikuh esa nks ckj
/kks;k tkrk gS vkSj vk[kjh ckj LdM fd;k tkrk gS A bu lcds vfrfjDr cdjhs d s
peM+s dks ,d fo'ks"k ekjus okys pht ls ihVk tkrk gS ;k nks ckj vkSjrks ds iSj ls ihVk
tkrk gS A,d ckj var vkSj fQj LdMhax ds igys fd;k tkrk gS A igyh LdfMax peM+k s
ds NksVs cky] uhacw lkcwuvkSj izkdfrd xanxh fudy vkrs gSa A bl izfdz;k esa peM+k fxj
tkrk gS vkSj peM+s dk fxjuk ;g trkrk gS fd peM+k dksey vkSj yphyk gks x;k gS A
Vsfuax
bls fLFkj :Ik ls vOokje ckdZ }kjk vf/kdrj cMs ydM+h ds Vc esa fd;k tkrk
gS vkSj dHkh dHkh xM<s esa fd;k tkrk gS A ;s Vc yxHkx 3’-6” ls 4 mapk vkSj 3’-6”
87
This fleshing is done by putting one skin at a time on the beam flesh side up
and scraping that side with a fleshing knife by placing a number of skins on the
beam grain side up. The limed skins are taken in the water in a pit and are
washed by trampling upon them in two changes of water. They are then fleshed
on beam. They are then washed again by trampling in two more changes of
water after which they are scudded. After this first the skins are washed again.
The wash water is run out and the skins kept in fresh water over night. Next
day they are fleshed second time after which they are washed by trampling
again in two changes of water and scudded for the second time. After this they
are washed twice by tramping and left overnight in clean water and the
following morning again in two changes of water. They are again scudded,
washed by trampling twice and scudded finally. In addition to all the above
goat skins are beaten with specific beaters or kicked by women’s feet twice.,
once before the last but of and again before scudding. In the first scudding the
skins are removed of the short hair, lime soap and the natural dirt of the skins.
The skins fall in the process and the falling ensures softness and pliability in
final leather.
Tanning
This is invariably done with avaram bark mostly in large wooden tubs
and rarely in masonry pits. The tubs are about 3’.-6’’ to 4’ height and 3’.-6’’ in
diameter in which 100 skins can be tanned. Tanning wooden tubs produces a
lighter color than in masonry pits. Very great care is taken to ensure the lightest
possible color in the tanned skins because dark and dull color considerably
depreciates their value. For this the bark used is at first cleansed so that the dirt,
sand and grit often associated with the bark may not darken the color of the
leather. The bark is at first sieved which removes the fine particles, which pass
through the sieve. It is then put into water and after a short immersion taken
out. In this way it is rapidly passed through about 3 changes of water whereby
the sand and grit settle down at the bottom of the tub. The bark so washed out
in this process gives better colored leather.
88
o`rkdj gksrk gS A ftlesa 100 ls Hkh vf/kd peM+ksa dks V su fd;k tk ldrk gS A Vsu
djus okys ydM+h ds Vc eslksujh Vc dh vis{kk gYds jax mRiUu djrs gSa A Vsu fd,
gq, peM+s esa gYds jax mRiUu djus ds fy, cgqr vf/kd /;ku fn;k tkrk gS D;ksafd
xgjk vkSj Qhdk jax mlds ewY; dks de djrk gS A blds fy, iz;qDr gksus okys ckd Z
dks lcls igys lkQ fd;k tkrk gS ftlls fd xanxh] ckyw vkSj dadM+ tsk vDlj ckd Z
ds lkFk yxs gq, gksrs gSa ] peM+s ds jax dks xgjk u dj ns A igys ckdZ dk Nku fy;k
tkrk gS ftlls fd ckjhd d.k fudy tk;s ] tks Nyuh ls fudy tkrs gSas A bldks ikuh
esa Mqck;k tkrk gS vkSj FkksM+s le; rd Mqck dj j[kus ds ckn fudky fy;k tkrk gS A
blh rjg bls 3 ckj ikuh cny dj tYnh /kks;k tkrk gS A ftlls ckyw vkSj dadM+ Vc
ds csanh esa tek gks tkrs gSa A bl rjg ls /kqys ckd Z ls peM+s dks vPNk jax feyrk gSA
,d Vsu peM+h ds fy, rhu ikmaM gok esa lw[ks vOokje ckdZ dh vko';drk
iM+rh gS A Vsfuax ds izfdz;k dks vkjaHk djus ls igys iqjkus vOokje ds nzO; ftlls
cgqr ls peMs+ lkQ fd, tk pqds gS a] dks Vc fy;k tkrk gS AizR;sd ikmaM peM+s ds fy,
1-5 ikmaM vOokje ckdZ fy;k tkrk gS vkSj Åij dgk x;k gS mls lkQ fd;k tkrk g S
A lkQ ckdZ dks iqjkus nzO; ls Hkj s Vc esa j[kk tkrk gS vkSj 24 ?kaVs ds fy, lks[kk tkrk
gS A bl le; ckdZ dks cgqr ckj fgyk;k tkrk gS ftlls fd nzO; ls Vsfuu fudkydj
mldk mi;ksx fd;k tk lds A /kqys gq, rFkk uhcwa yxs gq, peM+ks dks fQj nzO; esa ,d
ds ckn ,d Vc ds ry esa Åij vkSj uhps Mkyk tkrk gS Atc lkj s peM+ksa dks chNk
fn;k tkrk gS mudks nzO; ls ,d ds ckn ,d [khapk tkrk gS vk Sj ,d txg ij <sj dj
fn;k tkrk gS tgka ikl ikl ds Vc ds fje ,d nwljs ls Nw;s A peM+k dkyk gh jgrk g S
A nzO; ds ckdZ dks fgyk;k tkrk gS A peM+s dks tksM+h esa j[kk trk gS vkSj izR;sd tksM+h
dks nzO; esa Mqckdj ,d nks ckj Åij uhps ?k qek;k tkrk gS A vkSj nzO; esa nck fn;k
tkrk gS A Vsfuu dk vo'kks"k.k xzsbu dh vis{kk ekal okys Hkkx ls vf/kd gskrk gS blfy,
xzsbu ls xzsbu dks ,d lkFk cka/kk tkrk gS A ;g gYdk ij lkeku jax peM+s esa mRiUu
djrk gS A nks ?kaVs ds ckn peM+s dks fudky fy;k tkrk gS vkSj <sj esa j[kk tkrk gS A
ckdZ vkSj nzO; dks fgyk;k tkrk gS vkSj fQj igys txg ij j[k fn;k tkrk gS A jkr
Hkj ds fy, peM+s dks nzO; esa NksM+ fn;k tkrk gS A
89
Three pounds of the air dry avaram bark are required for a pound of tanned
skin. To start the tanning old avaram bark liquor through which one lot of skins
has passed is taken in a tub. About 1.5lb of avaram bark for each pound of the
expected leather is taken and cleansed as described above. The clean bark is
then put into the tub containing the old liquor and soaked in it for 24 hours.
During this period the bark is stirred several times to facilitate the extraction of
its tannin by the liquor. The washed and delimed skins are then dipped in this
liquor one by one moved to and fro from bottom of the tub. When all the skins
have been laid down they are hauled from the liquor one by one and piled on
the place where the rims of adjacent tubs touch each other. This is done to avoid
the skins from coming in contact with the iron hoops of the tubs whereby the
skins would be stained black. The bark in the liquor is then stirred. The skins
are paired grain to grain and each such pair is dipped in the liquor moved to
and fro a few times then pressed down into the liquor. Pairing grain to grain is
done to cause the absorption of tannin more through the flesh than grain side of
the skins. This produces a lighter and more even color in the tanned skins. After
about 2 hours the skins are removed and pilled, the bark and the liquor stirred
up and the skins put back again as usual. The skins remain in the liquor
overnight.
The skins are hanged facing one another and one of their hind shanks is
thrown over a fixed round wooden peg and taking the loose ends of the shanks
into the fold of the hanging skins the latter are twisted to wring out the water.
Each wring out skin is then placed flesh side up on a slanting beam made from
the trunk of a palm tree and worked by an unhairing knife to stretch out the
skin first lengthwise and then breadth wise to give it a square pattern as far as
possible.
The skins are then placed in the liquor of the tub. But this time the bark
which used to lie on the bottom of the tub in previous handling is now strewn
between the skins just as is done in dusters and layes in heavy leather tannage.
They are kept thus laid down for one day. The following morning the skins are
taken out and piled over the sides of the tubs for some time and laid down
again strewing the bark on each skin. The skins are handled in this way for four
90
peM+s dks ,d nwljs dh rjQ eqag djds yVdk fn;k tkrk gS A ,d fgaM 'ksad dks xksy
ydM+h ds isx esa Hkstk tkrk gS vk Sj 'ks ad ds [kqys Nksjksa dks yVdrs gq, peM+s ds eksM+ksa e sa
fy;k tkrk gS Ackn esa ikuh ckgj fudkyus ds fy, fupksM+k tkrk gS A izR;sd eqM+s gq,
peM+s ds ekal Hkkx dks >wds gq, che ij j[kk tkrk gS A tks cke isM+ dks cuk gksrk gS A
cky fudkyus okys pkdw ls yackbZ esa peM+s dks [khapk tkrk gS A mlds ckn pkSMkbZ e sa
[khapk tkrk gS A ftlls dh pkSdk sj isVuZ fey lds A
peM+s dks Vc ds nzO; esa Mky fn;k tkrk gS A bl le; ckdZ tks Vc ds ry e sa
tek jgrk gS ] og peM+s ds chp esa fc[kjk jgrk gS A tSls fd /k wy >kM+us okys ls >kM+k
x;k gks A vkSj Hkkjh peM+s ds Vsust tek gks tkrk gS A mldks bl rjg ls ,d jkr ds
fy, mlesa NksM+ fn;k tkrk gS A nwljs fnu lqcg peM+h dks fudky fn;k tkrk gS A Vc
ds ,d rjQ dqN le; ds fy, peM+s dk <sj dj fn;k tkrk gS vkSj ckdZ dks izR;sd
peM+s ij fc[ksj dj fQj ls uhps j[k fn;k tkrk gS A pkj fnuksa ds fy, peM+ks ij
blh rjg ls dke fd;k tkrk gS ftlds varxZr ekStwn Vsfuu dks vo'kksf"kr dj ysrs gSa
A nksuksa ok;q'kwU; gks tkrs gS A bu pkj fnuksa ds ckn peM+ks dks fupksM+ fn;k tkrk gS vkSj
ekal okys Hkkx dks che ij j[k dj cky fudkyus okys pkd w ls nwljh ckj dke fd;k
tkrk gS A
Vc ds iz;qDr ckdZ dks Qsad fn;k tkrk gS vkSj nzO; dks fcuk fgyk;s NskM+s fn;k
tkrk gS rks d.k ry esa te tkrs gSa A nks frgkbZ lkQ nzO; dks ckYVh esa Hkj dj nwljs
Vc esa Mky fn;k tkrk gS A vkSj blesa ikuh feykdj vko';d ek=k esa ?kksy fy;k tkrk
gS A rkfd fQj ls peM+s ij dk;Z fd;k tk lds A yxHkx 1-5 ikmaM vOokje ckdZ
izR;sd ikmaM peM+s ls Nku fy;k tkrk gS A igys dh rjg /kks dj lkQ fd;k tkrk gS A
vkSj Vc ds ikuh esa lks[kdj j[kk tkrk gS A [khaps gq, peM+s dks fc[kj s gq, ckdZ d s
ikuh esa j[ks izR;sd peMs ij j[k fn;k tkrk gS A 'kke rd peM+ksa dk fudkydj ,d
txg <sj dj fn;k tkrk gS A mlds ckn mUgsa x zsbu ls x zsbu ds tksM+h ds ikuh esa Mqck;k
tkrk gS A vkSj ,d nks ckj vkxs ihNs pyk;k tkrk gS vkSj nckdj j[k fn;k tkrk g S
A os blh gkyr esa chp esa fcuk fdlh ckdZ ds NksM+ fn;k tkrk gS A nwljs lqcg mudks
91
days by which time they absorb the available tannin and the bark and the liquor
are both practically exhausted. After these four days the skins are wrung out
and worked on the beam on the flesh side with the unhairing knife for the
second time.
The spent bark of the tub is thrown away and the liquor is undisturbed
for some time so that the sediment in it may settle down at the bottom. About
two thirds of the clear liquor is removed with bucket to another tub and diluted
with water to make the required volume for handling the skins in it again.
About 1.5 lbs of avaram bark per each pound expected leather is sieved and
washed as previously for cleaning and soaked in the liquor of the tub. The
stretched skins are put in this liquor strewing bark on each skin and kept so laid
during the day. Towards evening the skins are taken out and piled. They are
then dipped in the liquor paired grain to grain moved to and fro a few times
and finally immersed in it by pressing them down. They remain in this
condition without any bark between them during the night. The following
mornings they are removed from the liquor piled and then again laid down in
the liquor strewing bark on each skin and are kept so during the day. In this
way they are then removed wrung out and worked on the flesh side with the
unhairing knife over the beam for the third time. Skins of light and medium
weight are by now tanned through and given the myroblan bath. But heavy
skins are given another liquor for a further week and then wrung out and
worked on the beam, which completes their tannage.
After tanning with avaram bark the skins are treated with myroblam liquor. For
this 25lbs of myroblans of the yellow colored Salem variety are taken for 100 lbs
of the expected leather. The nuts are crushed and soaked in boiling water. The
extract so prepared is diluted with cold water to make up the required volume
of the liquor, which is then strained through a piece of cloth to separate the
solid particles from the liquor. Skins are piled by one in another tub placed near
by. When all the skins have so piled the myrob liquor is poured over on the pile
of skins. Care is taken to avoid formation of air bubble between the skins,
92
nzO; ls fudky dj <sj dj fn;k tkrk gS vkSj fQj izR;sd peM+s ds chp fc[kjs ckd Z d s
ikuh esa fnu Hkj ds fy, NskM+ fn;k tkrk gS A
bl rjg mUgsa fudkydj fupksM+k tkrk gS A che ij ekal okys Hkkx dks j[kdj
cky fudkyus okys pkdw ls rhljh ckj dke fd;k tkrk gS] gYds vkSj e/;e Hkkj ds
peM+s dks Vsu fd;k tkrk gS vkSj ekbjskCyku Luku fn;k tkrk gS A ij Hkkjh peM+ks dks
vkSj ,d lIrkg ds fy, nwljs nzO; esa j[kk tkrk gS A vkSj fupksM+dj che ij dke
fd;k tkrk gS tks muds Vsust dks lekIr djrk gS A
vOokje ckdZ ls Vsu djus ds ckn peM+ksa dks ekbjksCyku nzO; ls lkQ fd;k
tkrk gS A blds fy, 100 ikmaM peM+s ds 25 ikmaM ihys jax dk ekbjksaCyku lsye dk
fy;k tkrk gS A uV dsk nckdj mcyrs ikuh esa lks[kk tkrk gS A fQj bldks BaMs ikuh
ls feykdj ?kksyk tkrk gS vkSj vkO;';d vk;ru dk nzO; cuk;k tkrk gS A ftls diM +s
ds VqdM+s ls Nkudj Bksl ikuh dks nzO; ls vyx fd;k tkrk gS A tc peM+ksa dks nwlj s
Vc esa <sj fd;k tkrk gS vkSj ekbjkWc nzO; dks peM+s ds <sj esa Mky fn;k tkrk gS A
peM+ks ds chp esa gok ds cqycqys u cus bl ij /;ku fn;k tkrk gS A tks mlesa xgjs
jax ds xkssy nkx mRiUu dj ldrsa gSa A peM+ska dks nzO; esa dqN le; ds fy, j[kk tkrk
gS A ftldk s gVk dj ,d ds ,d ckn nwljs Vc esa Vsj dj fn;k tkrk gS A bl Vc e sa
nzO; dks peM+s ds <sj esa Mky dj jkr Hkj j[kk tkrk gS A;gka ekbjskCyku }kjk dk;Z
[kRe gksrk gS A tks Vsu fd, gq, peM+ks dks izdk'k esa iMus ls xans yky jax esa vkus ls
cpkrk gS A Vsu fd, gq, peM+s dks ekal okys Hkkx esa Åij j[kdj <sj dj cky
fudkyus okys pkdw ls yackbZ esa vkSj pkSM+kbZ esa [khapdj j[kk tkrk gS A ftlls pk Sdksj
isVuZ fey lds A [khaps gq, peM+ksa dks x zsbu Hkkx ds Åij vkSj uhp dh rjQ djds
[khap ds j[kk tkrk gS A izR;sd peM+s ij lhle dk rsy fNMdj rsyh; fd;k tkrk gS A
rsy yxs gq, peM+ksa ds ekal Hkkx dks Åij j[kdj <sj fd;k tkrk gS A dqN le; ds
fy, rsy yxs gq, peM+s dks NksM+ fn;k tkrk gS A fQj xzsbu rFkk ekal okys Hkkx dks gkFk
ls jxM+k tkrk gS ] lw[kus ds fy, yVdk fn;k tkrk gS A lseM gkyr esa peM+ksa dk s tc
FkksM+h lh ueh esa nks ckj ejksM+dj fupksM+u sls ckgj fudy vkrk gS A mudks uhps yk;k
tkrk gS vkSj Vc esa <sj dj jkr Hkj ds fy, ueh dks leku gksus ds fy, ds fy, NksM +
fn;k tkrk gS A nwljs fnu budks ihry ds ;k rkacs ds fpdus ry ij laxejej ;k dkap
93
which would cause dark edged round stains on them. The skins are kept in this
liquor for a short time after which they are removed one by one and piled in
another tub. The liquor is poured on the pile on this tub and the skins kept
overnight. This completes the myrobaln treatment which is necessary to
prevent the tanned skins from assuming a dirty reddish color on exposure to
light .The tanned leather is piled flesh side up and stretched out well with an
unhairing knife lengthwise, breadth wise and at all angles to give a square
pattern. The stretched out sknis are kept in a pile placing them grain side up
and flesh to grain. Each skin is then oiled up by sprinkling till (Sesame) oil well
in by hand. The oiled skins are kept in another pile grain to flesh. After the
skins have remained in the oiled condition for some time, they are again rubbed
with hand both grain and flesh and then hung up to dry partially. When the
skins are in sammed condition, that is to say when a little moisture oozes out on
strongly squeezing them at a double fold they are taken down and piled in a
tub covered up and left overnight to equalize the moisture. Next day they are
set out with a brass or copper slicker on a marble or glass table. The setting is
done on the flesh side stretching the skins out in the same directions as was
done when they were worked on the beam after the myroblam bath. This keeps
the shape and pattern on the skins intact otherwise they may go out of shape
and become shaggy. The set out skins are hung up again and dried out
completely. The dried skins are then staked by hand on a hand staker to make
them pliable. Staked skins are fluffed by rubbing the flesh side with “Jhama”,
i.e., a piece of over burnt brick or with sand paper wrapped round a piece of
wooden block of suitable size for gripping with the hand. The fluffing produces
a nice nap on the flesh side. The edges of the skins are trimmed and they are
then sorted on the basis of weight.
Current Method of production of E.I. Leathers from Hides and Skins: While maintaining the traditional process, in order to reduce time of
processing, wattle bark extract has mostly replaced avaram bark. To quicken
the process, drums are being made use of, in addition to use of simple
chemicals for liming and deliming.
94
Vscy ij j[kk tkrk gS A ekal Hkkx dks mlh rjg [khapdj j[kk tkrk gS tSls fd
ekbjkscsyu ckr ds nkSjku fd;k tkrk gS A vkSj lsfVax dk dke [kRe gks tkrk gS A tks
peM+s ds vkdkj vkSj isVuZ dks Bhd j[krk gS A ugh arks mudk vkdkj fcydqy gh
fcxM+ tk;sxk vkSj [kqjnqjk gks tk;sxk A peM+ks dsk fQj ls Vkax fn;k tkrk gS vk Sj
lq[kk;k tkrk gS A lw[ks gq, peM+s gkFk ls [khapdj yphyk cuk;k tkrk gS A [khaps gq,
peM+ksa dks ekal okys Hkkx esa >kek ls jxM+dj jksavk fudkyk tkrk gS A >kek] T;knk tys
gq, bZaV ds VqdM+s ;k mfpr vkdkj ds ydM+h ds CykWd ij yisVs gq, ckyw ds dkxt
vkfn ftls gkFk esa idM+k tk lds Ajksavk fudkyus ls ekal Hkkx esa vPNk usi feyrk g S
A peM+s dks Nksjksa dks dkVdj vkSj Hkkj ds vuqlkj vyx fd;k tkrk gS A
[kky vk Sj peM+s ls bZ vkb Z peM+k fudkyus dh vkt dh fof/k
Ikjaifjd izfdz;k dk ikyu djus ij Hkh izfdz;k ds le; dks djus ds fy,
vOokje ckdZ ds LFkku ij okVy ckdZ dk iz;ksx fd;k tk jgk gS A izfdz;k dks tYnh
djus ds fy, uhacw yxkus vkSj fudkyus ds fy, lk/kkj.k jklk;u ds iz;ksx ds vfrfjDr
Mªe dk Hkh iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS A ued yxs peM+s dks 4 ?kaVs ds fy, lk s[kk tkrk g S
vkSj ckn es nks ckj /kks;k tkrk gS A peM+ksa dks uhacw rFkk lksfM;e lYQkbMs esa 6 ?kaV s d s
fy, NksM+k tkrk gS vkSj ikjaifjd Vsfuax izfdz;k esa ydM+h ds che ls pkdw ds }kjk cky
fudkyk tkrk gS A vkt mRikndks c<kus ds fy, cky fudkyus dh izfdz;k ds fy, e'khu
dk iz;ksx fd;k tk jgk gS A cky fudkys x;s peM+ks dks 35 izfr'kr uhacw okys xM<s esa
Mkyk fn;k tkrk gS A pkj fnu ds fy, ml ij nks ckj dke fd;k tkrk gSA eksVk gksrs
gq, ns[kus ds fy, jk st tkap fd;k tkrk gS A ikapos fnu LdfMax dh fdz;k LdfMax pkd w
ls ikjaifjd ydM+h ds che ij NskVs cky rFkk jatu dks fudkyus ds fy, dh tkrh gS A
vktdy dqN Vsujh LdfMax e'khu dk iz;ksx mRikn dks c<kus ds fy, dj jgs gSa A
xM<ksa ij fQj ls uhacw Mkyk tkrk gS A 8 osa fnu peM+ska dks fudkydj ekal fudkyus
oky pkdw ls peM+s ls ekal fudkyk tkrk gS A vktdy cky fudkyus dh fdz;k ds fy,
e'khu dk iz;ksx mRiknu dks c<kus rFkk ifjJe dks ?kVkus ds fy, fd;k tkrk gS A
bl voLFkk esa cky vkSj ekal dks fudkyus ds ckn] peM+ksa dks ^isYV* dgk tkrk
gS A isYV Hkkjh gksrk gS A fQj isYV dks isMy esa j[kdj uhacw ls gVk;k tkrk gS A blds
95
Salted skins are soaked for 4 hours and washed twice. The skins were pasted
with lime and sodium sulphide for about 6 hours and then the hair is removed
using knives on wooden beams in traditional tanning process. Today, unhairing
machines are used to increase productivity.
The unhaired skins are put in lime pits with 35% lime and handled twice
manually for four days and checked every day for plumping. On 5th day,
scudding is done using scudding knives on traditional wooden beams to
remove the short hair and pigments (today some tanneries use scudding
machines to increase productivity) and reliming is done in the pits. On 8th day,
skins are removed and fleshing is done by fleshing knives on wooden beams
(now machines are used for unhairing to increase productivity as well as to
reduce the drudgery.
At this stage after removal of hair and flesh, the skins are called “PELTS”
and pelt is weighted. Then the pelt is delimed and degreased in paddle after
which it is pickled with 10% salt and about 0.5-1.0% sulphuric acid and kept
over night. Next day (9th day) the pelt is adjusted for pH to 4 and tanning is
done with 15% wattle extract (solid) and 5% G.S. powder in drum. Next day
(1oth day) myrobing is done in drum with 8% myroblan (Fermented Bath) and
piled over night. On 11th day the tanned skins are sammed and dipping done in
glucose, Epsom salt, hypo, oxalic bath in tub and taken for oiling with 1%
pungam oil, then hooked in dry shed for drying for a day. Next day (13th day)
after checking the dryness setting is carried out in setting machine and hooked
again for drying the skins. Next day (14th day) buffing is done in the machine in
the flesh side for smooth feel and trimmed and packed for despatch.
As is evident from the above process descriptions, the pit method has
given way to drum method and ready to use wattle/mimosa extracts and spray
dried powders have replaced avaram almost completely.
96
ckn esa blesa 10 izfr'kr ued vkSj 0-5x1-0 izfr'kr lYQ;wfjd vEy Mkyk tkrk g S
vkSj jkr Hkj ds fy, j[kk tkrk gS A nwljs fnu dks a4PH ds fy, Bhd fd;k tkrk gS A
15 izfr'kr ¼Bksl½ vkSj Mªe es a5 izfr'kr th ,l ikmMj ls Vsfauax fd;k tkrk gS A nwljs
fnu 10osa fnu Mªe esa ekbjksfcu fd;k tkrk gS A vk Sj jkr Hkj 8 izfr'kr ekbjksCyku ls
ekbjksfcu fd;k tkrk gS A jkr Hkj ds fy, <sj esa j[k fn;k tkrk gS A 11osa fnu Vsu
fd, peM+ks dks lse gks tkrs gSa rsk Vc esa j[ks Xywdksl] ,ilWku] ued] gkbiks]
vkWDlk sfyd Mqck;k tkrk gS AvkSj fQj fudkydj 1 izfr'kr iqaxe rsy yxkdj 1fnu ds
fy, lw[kus ds fy, gqd esa Vkax fn;k tkrk gS A lsfVax e'khu }kjk 13 osa fnu lw[skiu
dks tkapk tkrk gS A peM+s dks lw[kus ds fy, gqd esa Vakx fn;k tkrk gS A 14 osa fnu
e'khu ls ekal okys Hkkx esa jkasvk fudkyk tkrk gS A ftlls fpduk yxs A mls dkVdj
cjkcj dj iSddj Hkst fn;k tkrk gS A
mi;ZqDr izfdz;k ds fo'ys"k.k ls tkfgj gS fd xM<s dh fof/k us Mªe dh fof/k dks
txg fn;k vkSj vOokje dh txg iwjh rjg ls okVy us ys fy;k A feesklk rFkk LiszV
lw[ks ikmMj us ys yh A bZ vkbZ peM+k izkdfrd izseh gS A blesa vPNs vkokt] vuks[kk
vuwHko rFkk mfpr lqx a/k ¼peM+s dk lqxa/k½A Vsfuax esa lkeku dk ;ksx cgqr vuks[kk gS A
jxM+us ls cgqr ped vkrh gS vkSj lkFk gh piVk fpduk lrg bldh [kqfc;ka gSa A b Z
vkbZ peM+k viuh laiw.kZrk] vPNk ikuh vo'ksk"k.k vkSj mÙerk vkfn ds izfl) gS A bl
mRiknu dk jax cgqr fof'kf"V gS vkSj izdk'k tks izkdfr d peM+s dk gYdk lqugjk jax
nsrk gS Atks vuks[kk gS ;g fofHkUu iz;ksxsak tSls oL=] pIiy] QuhZpj ifjofrZr gksrk gS
vkSj bldh izHkqrk gS A
V½ vuks[kkiu
bZ vkbZ peM+k izkd`frd izseh gS A blesa vPNs vkokt] vuks[kk vuwHko rFkk
mfpr lqxa/k ¼peM+s dk lqxa/k½A Vsfuax esa lkeku dk ;ksx cgqr vuks[kk gS A jxM+us ls
cgqr ped vkrh gS vkSj lkFk gh piVk fpduk lrg bldh [kqfc;ka gSa A b Z vkbZ peM+k
viuh laiw.kZrk] vPNk ikuh vo'ksk"k.k vkSj mÙerk vkfn ds izfl) gS A bl mRiknu
97
(K) Uniqueness:
E.I.Tanning is eco-friendly and it has got an unmistakable sound, unique feel
and specific fragrance (smells like Leather). The combination of Tanning
materials is very unique. Possibility to generate high gloss on rubbing, flat and
smooth surface are its special characters. E.I .Leather enjoys the advantage of
fullness, Good water perspiration absorption, lends itself for upgradation. The
colour of the product is very special and the light that lends the natural leather
a warm pale golden tone, which is unique that, is amenable for converting into
different uses like garments, shoes, furniture and Leather Goods. It is eminently
suitable for dressing into semi chrome leather for shoe and garments, leather
goods etc.
(L) Inspection body: The applicants are taking steps to set up a suitable, independent and effective inspection body involving external members.
98
dk jax cgqr fof'kf"V gS vkSj izdk'k tks izkdfr d peM+s dk gYdk lqugjk jax
nsrk gS Atks vuks[kk gS ;g fofHkUu iz;ksxsak tSls oL=] pIiy] QuhZpj ifjofrZr gksrk gS
vkSj bldh izHkqrk gS A
B½ tk¡p fudk;
vkosnd vuqdwy vkSj izHkko'kkyh tkap fudk; cukus ds fy, vko';d dne
mBk jgs gSa A
99
GOVERNMENT OF INDIA
GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS JOURNAL NO.23
JUNE , 2008/ Jyestha-11 SAKA 1929
101
th vkbZ vkosnu la- 94
gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx] rfeyukMq ljdkj] dqjyxe (f}rh; eafty)] psUuS 108] Hkkjr }kjk lsye osuiV~Vq uke ls tkusokys lsye flYd ds jftLVj ds Hkkx , esa] VSDLVkby vkSj VSdLVkby lkexzh rFkk diMs ftlesa Øe”k% oxZ 24]25 esa iMusoky s
lkfM+;kaW lfEefyr gS ds laca/k esa] vkosnu la-94 ds v/khu iathdj.k ds fy, vkosnu
fd;k tkrk gS A izLrqr vkosnu tks ,rn~}kjk lkexzh dk HkkSxksfyd laadsr iathdj.k
o lqj{kk) vf/kfu;e 1999 ds /kkjk 13 mi/kkjk 1 ds v/khu Lohdr foKkfir gSA
vkosnd % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
psUuS 108
izfrfuf/k
Jh ih- lat; xkaW/kh
vf/koDrk
6 ykW psEcj mPp U;k;ky;] psUubZ 600104
irk % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
dqjyxe (II eafty)
psUuS 108
HkkSxks fyd ladsr % lsye flYd ftls lsye osuiV~Vq dgrs gSa
oxZ % 24 vkSj 25
lkexzh % VsDLVkby o VsDLVkby lkexzh vkSj diMs ftlesa
lkM+h lfEefyr gS
102
G.I. – APPLICATION NUMBER 94 Application is made by Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu. Kuralagam, (II Floor), Chennai - 600 108 India for registration in Part A of the register of Salem Silk known as Salem Venpattu under Application No 94 in respect of
Textiles and Textile goods, and Clothing including Sarees falling in Class 24, and 25 respectively is hereby advertised as accepted under sub-section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
Applicant : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu
Represented by Mr. P. SANJAI GANDHI
Advocate 6, Law Chamber High Court of Madras
Chennai – 600104 Address : Department of Handlooms and Textiles,
Government of Tamilnadu Kuralagam, (II Floor), Chennai - 600108
Geographical Indication : Salem Silk known as Salem Venpattu Class : 24 and 25 Goods : Textiles and Textile goods, and Clothing including Sarees.
103
,- vkosnd % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
psUuS 600 108
ch- irk % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
dqjyxe (II eafty)
psUuS 600 108
lh- O;fDr;ksa@mRikndksa@ laxBu@ izkf/kdkjh %
Øe la lkslkbVh dk uke o irk
1- ,l-1227 lsye flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh
fyV] 83@34] f}rh; vxzgkje] lsye 636 001
2- ,l-,- 22 lwij flYe gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh
fyV] 14] f}rh; vxzgkje lsye 636 001
3- ,l-,- 77 lsye Jh jktx.kifr flYd gSaMywe oholZ
dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh fyV] f}rh; vxzgkje] lsye 636 001
4- ,l-,- 144 Jh lkSM+hLojh flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo
lkslkbVh fyV] 21] eYyh LVªhV] iksUuEekisV] lsye 636 001
5- ,Lk- 532 vEekisV~VS gSMywe ohoolZ dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh fyV]
222@552 fr# oh-d- LVªhV] vEekisV~VS] lsye 636 003
6- ,l-,- 141 lsye lkSjk’Vª flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo
lkslkbVh fyV] 207]f}rh; vxzgkje]] lsye 636 001
fdlh Hkh lkslkbVh ;k vlksfl;s”ku ftUgsa igys gh LFkkfir fd;k x;k gks ;k ftUgs th vkbZ- jftLVªh dks lefiZr fd;k x;s igpkus x;s {ks=h; lhekvksa ds v/khu
(uD”kk) Hkfo’; es LFkkfir fd;k tk,xk] dkuwuh vko”;drkvksa dks vuqikyu
djus ij] th-vkbZ ekdZ dks mi;ksx djus gdZ gksaxs A
Mh- lkexzh dk izdkj % mRikfnr lkexzh VsDLVkby
bZ- fofufnZf’Vdj.k %
rhu izdkj ds lsye OgkbV js”keh lkefxz;ksa (lsye osuiV~Vq) ds fy,
fofufnZf’Vdj.k fuEu gS%
104
(A) Name of the Applicant : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu,
Chennai - 600108 (B) Address : Department of Handlooms and Textiles,
Government of Tamilnadu Kuralagam, (II Floor), Chennai - 600 108 (C) List of association of persons /
Producers / organization / Authority :
S .No. Name & Address of the Societies
1 S.1227 Salem Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd.83/34, Second Agraharam, Salem- 636 001.
2 S.A. 22 Super Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd.14, Second Agraharam Salem- 636 001.
3 S.A. 77 Salem Shri. Rajaganapathy Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd., Second Agraharam Salem- 636 001.
4 S.A. 144 Shri. Sowdeswari Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd., 21, Malli Street, Ponnamapet Salem -636 001
5 S. 532 Ammapettai, Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd., 222/552,
Thiru V.K. Street, Ammapettai, Salem – 636 003. 6 S.A. 141 Salem Sowrashtra Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society
Ltd., 207, Second Agraharam, Salem - 636 001.
Any other societies or associations that are already established or that will be established in future within the identified territorial limits (map) submitted to G.I Registry will also
become eligible to use the G.I mark upon the said goods by complying the requirements under law.
105
1- /kksrh enksa ds fy, % okiZ yxHkx 6000 dksus ds lkFk gksaxs ftlls izR;sd
3-65 ehVj dh 10 /kksrh ftldh dqy ysaXFk 37 ehVj
gksaxsa dks mRiknu djus ds fy, i;kZIr gksA
2- vaxoL=e enksa ds fy, % okiZ yxHkx 4500 dksus ds lkFk gksaxs ftlls izR;sd
2-05 ehVj dh 18 vaxoL=e ftldh dqy ysaXFk 37 ehVj gksaxsa dks mRiknu djus ds fy, i;kZIr gksA
3- “kVZ enksa ds fy, % okiZ yxHkx 10000 dksus ds lkFk gksaxs tks dqy
ysaXFk 12 ls 18 ehVj ds 2 ;k 3 VqdMs
mRiknu djus ds fy, i;kZIr gksA
Øe
la
fooj.k js”ke /kksrh js”ke vaxoL=e js”ke “kfVZax
1- yackbZ 3-65 ehVj 2-05 ehVj 12 ls 18 ehVj
2- pkMkbZ 50^^(127 lseh) 0-90 ehVj 1-17 ehVj
3- jhM dkmaV 120 120 100
4- dksus@bap 120 120 100
5- fiDl@bap 55&60 (4 IykbZ) 55&60(4 IykbZ) 45&50(4 IykbZ) 6- okiZ dkmaV 16@18Mh 16@18Mh 16@18 Mcy
js”keh ;kuZ
7- osQ~V dkmaV 18@20Mh 18@20Mh 18@20
8- ckMZj fMtkbu
fofufnZf’Vdj.k
v- mi;ksfxr lkexzh
vk- fMtkbu fuekZ. k esa mi;ksfxr dksus
dh la[;k
fMt+kbu fuekZ.k
QysV “kqn~/k t+jh
20 dqfyxS ls 120 dqfyxS
1 dqfyxS 4 tjh
dksus
QysV “kqn~/k tjh
20 dqfyxS ls 120 dqfyxS
1 dqfyxS 4 t+jh
dksus
&
&
mRiknu djrs oDr ;s js”keh VsDLVkby lkexzh lQsn jax ds gksrs gSaA lkQ djus
ds ckn] os gYds laMy jax esa ifjofrZr gksaxs vkSj mlds ckn Cyhfpax ds igys
js”keh ;kuZ ds izkjaHk Lrj esa tSlk Fkk oSls xgjs ihys jax dk gksaxsA vxj diMs
okLrfod jax esa ifjorZu ugha gksaxs rks os “kqn~/k js”ke ugha Gsa
106
(D) Type of goods : Manufactured goods Textiles (E) Specification : The following are the specifications for the three kinds of Salem White Silk (Salem Venpattu) goods:
1. For Dhothy items : Warp will be with about 6000 ends
which will be adequate for producing
10 dhothies with a total length of 37 meters
and each dhothy of 3.65 mtrs.
2. For Angavastram items : Warp will be with about 4500 ends which
will be adequate for producing18
Angavastrams with a total length of 37 meters
and Angavastram each of 2.05 mtrs.
3. For shirting items : Warp will be with about 10,000 ends
which will be adequate for producing 2 or 3
pieces each with a length of 12 to 18 meters.
S.No. Particulars Silk Dhothy
Silk Angavastram Silk Shirtings
1 Length: 3.65 Mtrs 2.05 mtrs 12 to 18 mtrs
2 Width 50" (127cm) 0.90 mtrs 1.17 mtrs
3 Reed Count 120 120 100
4 Ends/Inch 120 120 100
107
“kqn~/k js”ke rFkk vkVZ js”ke ds chp fuEu fHkUurkvksa dk dsUnzh; js”ke cksMZ u s
ladsr fn;k gS %
ijh{k.k js”ke vkVZ js”ke
tyuk & tyrk gS ij /khjs /khj s
tyrk gS ;k tyuk can
gks tkrk gSA
& /kqvkaW ls tys cky dh
xa/k vkrh gS
& dBksj ry ds lkFk dkyk chM fuekZ.k djrk gS
& bl chM dks lanfyr
djus ij fØLVkykbu
ikmMj esa ifj.kr gks tkrk gSA
& tyrk gS vkSj yxkrkj
tyrk jgrk gSA
& /kqvkaW tys x;s dkxt
dk xa/k nsrk gS
& lQsn jk[k curk gS vkSj rqjar fxj tkrk gSA
& izdfr esa ;g jk[k
vfØLVkykbu gksrh gS
“kfDr & fn;s x;s ?kukiu ds fy, js”ke /kkxk rqyu esa
cgqr gh “kfDr”kkyh gksrh
gSA
& fn;s x;s ?kukiu ds fy, vkVZ js”ke /kkxk
rqyu esa cgqr gh det+ksj
gSA
Øhl & “kqn~/k js”ke lanfyr
izHkko ls fuekZf.kr dzhl ls
rqjar fQj izkIr gks tkrk gS
xzhl fuekZ.k ls xzg.k”khy
gS vkSj iqu%izkfIr cgqr gh
/kheh gS
Jksr % js”ke cksMZ
js”ke dk HkkS frd y{k.k
&vkdkj
js”ke dk f=dks. kh; vkdkj dzkl lsD”ku gksrk gS ftudk dksus jkmaMM gksr s
gSA
108
5 Picks/Inch 55-60 (4 ply) 55-60 (4 ply) 45-50 (4 ply)
6 Count of Warp 16 / 18D 16 / 18D 16 / 18 Double Silk
Yarn
7 Count of Weft 18 / 20D 18 / 20D 18 / 20
8 Border Design Specification: a.Material used
b. No.of Ends used in
design formation
Design formation:
Flat Pure Zari
20 Kuligai to
120 Kuligai
1Kuligai 4
Zari ends
Flat Pure Zari
20 Kuligai to
120 Kuligai
1Kuligai 4 Zari ends
-
-
-
These silk textile products at the time of manufacturing are white in colour. After
washing they will be gradually changed to light sandal colour and thereafter deep yellow
colour as it was in the beginning stage of silk yarn before bleaching. If the clothes did not
change to the original colour, they are not pure silk.
109
& ped
f=dks.kh; vkdkj ds dkj.k (dbZ vaxyksa esa izdk”k dks vanj vkus nsus ls) js”ke cgqr gh pedhys Qkbcj gS ftldk vFkZ gS mlesa izkdfrd ped miyC/k gSA
& dofjax “kfDr
js”ke Qkbcj esa nqc Zy dofjax “kfDr miyC/k gSA ;g irys fQyesaV fuekZ.k ds dkj.k gSA
& gkFk
gkFk esa ysus ij] js”ke dk ljy] dksey VSDLpj gksrk gS] tks vU; flaFks fVd
Qkbcj ds tSls] fpduk ugha gksrkA
& Msfu;j
4-5 th@Mh (lw[ks) 5 2-8&4-0 th@Mh (xhys) js”ke dh esdfudh xq.k/keZ
&”kfDr izkdfrd Qkbcjksa esa ls js”ke gh cgqr “kfDr”kkyh gSA ij Hkh] xhys gksu s
ij og vius “kfDRk esa ls 20 izfr”kr rd [kks nsrk gSA
& yackbZ@ yphysiu
js”ke ls lk/kkj.k ls nqcZy yphysiu gksrk gSA FkksMs foLrkj djus ij Hkh Qkbcj foLrkfjr jgsaxsA
& iyVko
js”kek esa lk/kkj.k fozady izfrjks/k miyC/k gSA
js”ke dh jlk;fudh xq.k/keZ
& vo”kks’kdrk
js”ke esa vPNk ueh iqu%izkfIr 11 izfr”kr dk gksrk gSA
110
The Central Silk Board has indicated the differences between pure silk and Art silk as
follows:
Test Silk Art silk
Burning • Burns but stops burning or
burns slowly
• The fumes emit burnt hair
smell
• Forms black bead with
rough surface
• The bead can be crushed
resulting in to crystalline
powder
• Burns and burns
continuously
• The fumes emit burnt
paper smell
• Forms white ash and
drops immediately.
• The ash is amorphous in
nature
Strength • For a given thickness the
silk thread is stronger
comparatively
• For a given thickness
the art silk thread is
weaker comparatively
Crease • The pure silk quickly
recovers from the crease
formed by crushing effect.
• Susceptible to formation
of crease, and
recovering is rather
slow.
Source: - Silk Board
111
& fctyh pkydrk
js”ke fctyh dk detksj pkyd gS tks mls “khry ekSle esa iguus
lqfo/kktud cuk nsrk gSA bl ;g Hkh vFkZ gS fd js”ke LVsfVd fDyax ls xzg.k”khy gSA
& vYVªkokbyV izdk”k@ c;kykWftdy vkxZsfule ls izfrjks/k
vxj vf/kd lw;Z izdk”k esa js”ke dks is”k fd;k tk,xk rks og nqcZYk gks tk,xkA vxj lw[ks j[kk tk, rks dh<s ls vk?kkr Hkh gks ldrk gSA
& jlk;fud fj,fDVoVh@ izfrjks/k
js”ke feujy vfeyksa ls izfrjks/kd gSA ;g ilhus ls ihys gks tkrk gS vkSj
lYQfjd vfey esa fi?ky tk,xkA
& fofe; fLFkjrk
js”ke lk/kkj.kr% fldqMrk ugha gS] ;g bl dkj.k ls fd ekfydqyj LVªDpj
dks vklkuh ls rksM ugha ldrs A
,Q- HkkSxks fyd ladsr dk uke (vkSj fooj.k)
lsye flYd tks lsye osuiV~Vq uke ls izfln~/k gSA
lsye rfeyukMq dk eq[; “kgj gS vkSj ;gh ftyk dk eq[;ky; gSA ;g
frlsjojk;u (,dkZM) igkM rFkk toknq igkMksa ds chp ds njkZ esa fr#ef.keqRrq unh
ds nksuksa vksj fLFkr gSA ;g cgqr lkjs cxy ds {ks=ksa dks viukdj] cMh esVªksikfyVu
“kgj dkiksZjs”ku ds :Ik esa fodflr gks x;k gSA
lsye izkij dh iwohZ Hkkx vkSj nf{k.k Hkkx gS xqxS vkSj os gSaMywe
lkefxz;ksa ds fy, e”kgwj gSA if”pe Hkkx esa lsye dksV~VS (canjxkg) vkSj “ksokisV] ekdsZV dsUnz miyC/k gSA mRrj Hkkx esa gLreiV~Vh] Qs;jySaM rFkk
u;s Qs;jySaM miyC/k gSA VsDLVkby ea=ky; dh bafM;u bfLV~V;wV vkWQ
gSaMywe rdukyth lsye esa fLFkr gSA
“kgj esa vEekisV~VS] vUunkuiVVh] vfjfliky;e] xqxS] gLreiV~Vh]
d#.kdyiV~Vh] fdfpiky;e] dqekjlkehiV~Vh] ejousjh] usfFkesMq]
112
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF SILK
• Shape
Silk has a triangular shaped cross section whose corners are rounded.
• Lustre
Due to the triangular shape (allowing light to hit it at many different angles), silk
is a bright fiber meaning it has a natural shine to it.
• Covering Power
Silk fibers have poor covering power. This is caused by their thin filament form.
• Hand
When held silk has a smooth, soft texture that, unlike many synthetic fibers, is not
slippery
• Denier
4.5 g/d (dry) ; 2.8-4.0 g/d (wet)
MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF SILK
• Strength
Silk is the strongest of all the natural fibers; however it does lose up to 20% of its
strength when wet.
• Elongation/Elasticity
Silk has moderate to poor elasticity. If elongated even a small amount the fibers
will remain stretched.
• Resiliency
Silk has moderate wrinkle resistance
113
lathohjk;u isV~VS] lsaxyisV~VS vkSj rFkxiV~Vh lfEefyr gS tks igys xkaWo
Fks A
izFke ,t (Øsrk ;qx) ds nkSjku lsye dks ioukliqje dgk x;k Fkk
(ikiksa dks uk”k djusokys “kgj)A f}rh; ,t(}koij;qx) esa iV~VhLoje cu x;k vkSj rrh; ,t (=srk ;qx) ds nkSjku ukxsLoje (dksczk jktk dk ?kj) cu x;k vkSj rRdky pkSFks ,t (dfy;qx) lq[koue (gjs taxyksa dk rksrk) dgk tkrk gSA
th- lkexzh dk fooj.k
lsye flYd VsDLVkby esa lQsn js”ke /kksrh] js”ke vaxoL=e (Åij
dh diM+s) vkSj lQsn js”ke “kfVZax lfEefyr gSA ;s lQsn js”keh lkexzh ikjaifjd rkSj ij fookgksa rFkk vU; R;ksgkjksa ds le; fo”ks’k enksa ds :i esa
mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA
bUgsa lkSjk’Vªk lewg dgs tkusokys {ks=h; cquusokys tqykgs lewg iqjkus
tekus ls mRiknu dj jgs gSaA os lsye “kgj rFkk isfj vcZu {ks=ksa esa c+M+h
la[;k esa jgrs gSaA
rfeyukMq esa] js”keh lkM+h lkekU;r% dkaphiqje] fr#Hkqoue] dqaHkdks.ke] vkj.kh vkfn txgksa esa mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA ij Hkh] lQsn js”keh
VsDLVkby lsye {ks= esa gh vuqie gS ftUgsa bl {ks= ds Js’B fuiq.k tqykgs
lewg mRiknu djrs gSA
lsye lQsn js”keh lkefxz;ksa esa mi;ksfxr js”ke lad.k (lhch) js”ke okeZ ddwu ls mRikfnr gS] tks ;k rks ihys jax ds gksrs gS ;k /kaq/kyk lQsn gksrs
gSA eqMko ds fy, bu ddwu ls js”ke dks Cyhp fd;k tkrk gS rkfd ;g
js”keh ;kuZ “kqn~/k lQsn jax esa pedsaxsA 7&8 js”keh dk dhM+k ddwu ls bu js”keh Qkbcj dks ,d lkFk ?kwek tkrk gS rkfd bls xaHkhj Qkbcj cuk ldsaA
bl ;kuZ 16@18Mh ;k 18@20
Mh xq.krk ds gksrs gSA
lsye js”keh /kksrh mudh ped ds lkFk lQsn izdkj ds fy, e”kgwj
gSA
114
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF SILK
• Absorbency
Silk has a good moisture regain of 11%.
• Electrical Conductivity
Silk is a poor conductor of electricity making it comfortable to wear in cool
weather. This also means however, that silk is susceptible to static cling.
• Resistance to Ultraviolet Light/ Biological Organisms
Silk can become weakened if exposed to too much sunlight. Silk may also be
attacked by insects, especially if left dirty.
• Chemical Reactivity/Resistance
Silk is resistant to mineral acids. It is yellowed by perspiration and will dissolve in sulfuric acid.
• Dimensional Stability
Silk does not generally shrink due to the fact that its molecular structure is not
easily distorted.
(F) Name of the Geographical Indication (and particulars):
Salem Silk known as Salem Venpattu
SALEM is one of the major cities in Tamil Nadu, and is the headquarters of the
district. It is situated on both sides of the Thirumanimutthu River in a valley between the
Servarayan (Yercaud) hills and Javadu hills. It has grown into a larger metropolitan city
corporation by covering a number of surrounding areas.
The eastern part is Salem proper and the Southern Section is Gugai, and they are well known for the manufacture of handloom products. The Western side comprises of
115
,p- mRiknu ds HkkSxksfyd foLrkj vkSj i’B la- 139 esa nf”kZr ekufp=
lsye js”ke mRiknu ls lacaf/kr HkkSxksfyd {ks= rFkk uD”kk dks i`’B la- 139 esa fn[kk;s vuqlkj foLrkj fd;k x;k gS
{ks=ksa dk eq[; dsUnz tgkaW lsye flYd dk mRiknu fd;k tk jgk gS
mlesa fuEu lfEefyr gSA
1- lsye “kgj 2- vEekisV 3- iksUuEekisV 4- xqxZ 5- “ksokisV 6- oylS;wj 7- dksaMkyeiV~Vh
,Q- ewy dk xokg (,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k)
“kgj vkSj ftyk dk uke % lsye “kCn dk “kCnO;qRifRr dbZ fopkjksa
rFkk oknfooknksa dh vksj ys pyk gSA bl “kCn dk dbZ izfr;ksxh vFkZ rFkk
ewy gSA mlesa ls eq[; gS fuEu ikaWp “kCn % psje] lSye] lY;k] ls;yS vkSj
lhyeA
gSaMywe lsye esa ,d iqjkuk m|ksx gS vkSj eq[;rk esa ;g df’k ds ckn
f}rh; eq[; m|ksx gSA ;g bruk iqjkuk vkSj eq[; gS fd dqN O;fDr ;g
fo”okl djrs gSa fd lsye uke gh ^lY;k^ “kCn ls izkIr gS ftldk vFkZ gS
tqykgk lewg ;k lsyS dk rfey vFkZ gS lkM+hA ,d eq[; /kjsyq m|ksx ds :i
esa] ;g lsye ftyk ds dbZ “kgjksa rFkk xkaWoksa esa miyC/k gS tgkaW tqykgk lewg
(nsokaxj ;k lsnj] taxkekj] dSdksy eqnfy;kj] lkfy;wj] lkSjk’Vªk vkSj lsfu;kj) ik;s tkrs gSaA
17oha “krkCnh esa] baXySaM ds O;kikfjd daifu;kaW rFkk Qzkal us ,d nwljs ls
lsye gSaMywe ohfoax lkefxz;ksa ds fy, dEihV djus yxsA Jh vuanjxe fiYyS]
Qzsp ljdkj ds fy, ikafMpsjh f}Hkk’kh (vuqoknd) us vius nSfudh esa lsye tqykgksa ls cuk;s diMs dks [kjhnus esa Qzsap vkSj baXySaM ds chp Li/kkZ ds ckjs esa
fy[ks gSA fczfV”k daiuh lsye tqykgksa ds lkFk dMywj] lmFkvkdkZV esa fLFkr
vius QksVZ lsbUV lsVYesaV }kjk O;kikj fd;s rFkk Qzsap ikafMPpsjh ds lehi ls
izpkyu fd;sA
Qkafll cqpkeu us igpkuk fd dSdksyj vkSj tsnj us ^f”kykl^ (irys
lQsn efLyu)] ^nqiV~Vk^ (eksVk o dqN le; LVªkbi f”kYykl) ] ^”kkseu^
116
Salem Kottai (Fort) and Shevapet the Market Centre. The northern part contains
Hasthampatti, the Fairlands and the New Fairlands. The Indian Institute of Handloom
Technology of the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India is located in Salem.
The city includes many textile areas like Ammapettai, Annadhanapatti,
Arisipalayam, Gugai, Hasthmaptti, Karunkalpatti, Kitchipalayam, Kumarasamypatti,
Maravaneri, Netthimedu, Sanjivirayanpettai, Senkalpatti and Thathagapatti, which were
all villages earlier.
Salem is known in legends as Pavanasapuram (city that destroys sins) during the First Age (Kretha yuga). It became Pattiswaram during the Second Age (Dhvaparayuga), Nageswaram (Abode of the Lord of Cobras) during the Third Age (Thretha yuga), and Sukavanam (Parrot of Green Forest) during the present fourth Age (Kali Yuga). (G) Description of goods:
Salem Silk Textiles include the white silk dhothies, silk Angavastrams (upper
cloth) and white silk shirtings. These white silk goods are traditionally used during
marriages and other festivals as specialty items.
They are produced from time immemorial by the local traditional weaving
community called as “Sourashtra” Community. They live in large numbers in Salem
Town and peri urban areas.
In Tamil Nadu, Silk Sarees are generally produced in places like Kancheepuram,
Thirubuvanam, Kumbakonam, Arni, etc. However, white silk textiles are unique only
in Salem Region produced by the highly skilled weaving community in the area.
The silk used in Salem White Silk goods is produced from Cross-Bred (CB) silk
worm Cocoons which are either yellow or dull white in colour. For the warp the silk
from these Cocoons is bleached, so that the silk yarn will be shining pure white in
colour. The silk fibres from 7 – 8 silkworm Cocoons are reeled together to make it a
strong fibre. This yarn is of 16 / 18D or 18 / 20D quality.Salem Silk Dhothy is well
known for its White Variety with its lustre.
117
(Åij ds tSls ij js”keh ckMZjksa ds lkFk)] ^lsyS (yky lwrh ckMZjksa ds lkFk
xk<+k lwrh diM+k)] ^jksekyk^ (flj ij ckaW/kus ds fy, cMh gSaMdphZQ ;k Voy) mvkSj ^ijlkyk^ (eksVk lknk diMk) vkSj mRiknu fd;kA
FkkWel eUjks us lsye ds tykgs tkfr rFkk mudh fo”ks’krk dks fuEu
rkSj ij oxhZdr fd;k %
1- dSdksykl
eksVs yEcs diMs cqurs gSa tks mudh yEckbZ ds vuqlkj] lsyeiksj
usMqekye (v{kjr% ykaWx gSaM) 72 D;wfcV~l] dSfyl 36 (vkSj) ipksje 18 fofHkUu ukeksa ls tkus tkrs gSaA 2- tnklZ
;s VcZu] /kksrh] ikdsZyhl] lnhl] gSaMdphZQ vkSj lhy ;k lHkh rjg ds
efLyu cqurs gSa A
3- ef..koklZ ;k ifj;kg
;s VcZu ds vPNs izdkjksa dks cqurs gS vkSj tnkj ls mRikfnr diMs dks
cqurs ugha ij dSdksykl ls cquk;s tkusokys diMs dks cqurs gSaA VsDLVkby dh
Js’Brk vU; tkfr ds tqykgksa ls mRikfnr diMksa ls mRre gSA
4- lsfy;klZ tnkj ftl diMs dks cqurs gS mls gh cqurs gS vkSj ;s tkfr esa ek= gh
fHkUu gSA
5- psfuoklZ
dSdksyj ftl diMs cqurs gS mls gh cqurs gS vkSj VcZu Hkh mRiknu
djrs gSA
6- lkSjk’Vªk
lkSjk’Vªk rfeyukMq ds eq[; vizoklh lewgksa esa ,d gSA tSls fd os iV~Vq
uwy (js”keh /kkxk) ds fy, fo”ks’kK gS] mUgsa iV~Vquwydkju dgk tkrk gS
(vkneh tks js”keh /kkxk dksmi;ksx djds VsDLVkby cqurs gSa) A os eq[;r%
118
(H) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no 139. The Salem silk production is extended to the area as shown in the Map in page no 139. The main centers of the location where the Salem Silk is manufactured includes:
1. Salem Town 2.Ammapet 3. Ponnamapet 4. Gugai 5. Shevapet 6. Valasaiyur 7
Kondalampatty.
(I) Proof of origin: (Historical records) The name of the city and district:
The etymology of the word Salem has led to much ingenious speculations and controversy. The word has several competing meanings and origins. The chief among them are the following five terms: Cheram, Sailam, Salya, Seylai and Seelam.
Handloom is an ancient industry of Salem, and is second in importance next only to agriculture. It is so ancient and important that some believe that the name of Salem itself was derived from the word "Salya" meaning weaver community or Selai meaning Sari in Tamil. As a major household industry, it exists in most of the towns and villages in Salem district where members of the weaving communities (Devangar or Sedars, Jangamar, Kaikola Mudaliar, Saliyur, Sowrashtra and Seniyar) are found.
In the 17th century, the mercantile companies of England and France competed with each other to buy the products of the Salem Handloom Weaving. Sri Anandharangam Pillai, the Pondicherry dhvibashi (interpreter) for the French Government, described in his diary how the French competed with the British in buying textiles from Salem weavers. The British Company traded with the Salem weavers through their Fort Saint David Settlement in Cuddalore, South Arcot and the French operated from the nearly Pondicherry.
Francis Buchaman found that Kaikolar and jedar made "Shillas" (thin white muslin), "duputtas" (coarse and sometimes stripes shillas), "shoman" (same as above but with silk borders), "salay" (thicker cotton cloth with red cotton borders), "romala" (large handkerchiefs or towels for tying round the head), and "parcala" (coarse plain cloth).
119
lsye] enqjS] fr#usyosyh] fr#nquxj] fn.MqDdy vkSj ratkÅj ftykvksa esa
forfjr gSA rfeyukMq esa mUgsa lkSjk’Vªk dgk tkrk gS] ftldk vFkZ gS xqtjkr
jkT; ds lkSjk’Vª {ks= dh O;fDrA lkSjk’Vªk lewg ds fy, eq[; vk; dk Jksr gS cquukA muesa ls dqN vius gh ywe j[krs gSa vkSj cquusokys lkslkbfV;ksa ls
;k futh O;kikfj;ksa ls ;kuZ ysrs gS vkSj iwfrZ fd;s x;s lkexzh nsrs gSaA blds
fy, mUgsa cquk;s x;s enksa ds vuqlkj] tSls lkM+h] Voy] lk/kk diM+s vkSj /kksrh]
Hkqxrku fd;k tkrk gS A
fczfV”k rFkk Qzsap ds chp jkT; djus ls lacaf/kr >xMs vkSj le; le; ij ejkrk vkØe.k vDlj bl O;kikj ls var%{ksi fd;k vkSj diMksa dks
;krk;kr ;k HkaMkj.k djrs oDr {kfr igqaWprk FkkA ,sls izdj.kksa esa] cquusokys ls
vfxze dks okil djus ds fy, dgktkrk Fkk ;k {kfr igqaWps ;k [kk;s lkefxz;ksa
dks fQj djds nsus ds fy, dgk tkrk FkkA bl dkj.k ls rFkk /kkxk] ywe vkfn
ij ykxw fd;s x;s dbZ djksa ds dkj.k] daiuh vius fy, fof”k’V :i ls dims
mRiknu djus ds fy, tqgkyksa dks fu;qDr djus ds laca/k esa dqN leL;k,aW mBhaA blfy, 1792 esa daiuh ds dCts esa fu;a=.k vkrs gh ,d ^fuos”k^ dh
LFkkiuk dh xbZ Fkh vkSj ^n lsye ns”k^ dh cquus lacaf/kr dyk dks iw.kZ :i ls
“kks’k.k djus ds fy, iz;Ru nksgjk x;kA
bl ftyk esa yweksa dh la[;k ml le; vkRrwj] dkV~VqiqRrqj] ukeDdy]
ijerh] lsye vkSj lsankeaxye esa forfjr gksdj dqy 1963 jgkA buesa ls] dqy 598 daiuh dh lsok esa FksA bl la[;k rc rd c<+rk x;k tc rd fd
okf.kfT;d jsflMsUlh }kjk viuk;s x;s vlaosnu”khy rjhdksa us ^fuos”k^ dks
fQj vizfln~/k dj fn;kA 1825 esa ts,e gsYFk ds tkus ij ^fuos”k^ Hkh pyk
x;kA
ts- mRiknu dh rjhdk
bl m|ksx es ami;ks fxr eq[; vkStkj gS QykbZ “kV~ vkSj Fkz ks “kV~yA lsye esa
js”keh /kksrh dks cMs iSekus esa QykbZ “kV~y yweksa esa mRikfnr fd;k tkrk gSA js”keh
diMksa esa cukoV yqaxh ds tSls lqn< rFkk fudV gksrs gSA bl rjg dh cukoV e sa
fo”ks’k visf{kr {kerk dh vko”;drk gS vkSj QykbZ “kV~y ywe ij mPp fid ds diMs mRiknu djus ds fy, vkSj Fkzk s “kV~y ij n`< ckMZj fMtkbu mRiknu ds fy,
lgu”khyrk dh vko”;drk gSA
120
Thomas Munro categorized the weaving castes of Salem and their specialities thus:
1. Kaikolas
Weave coarse long clothes, which go under different names according to their length selampore nedumalam (literally long hand) 72 cubits, kailis 36 (and) pachoram 18.
2. Jadars
Weave turbans, dhoties, parkallies, sadis, handkerchiefs and seals or muslins of
all kinds.
3. Manniwars Or Pariahs They weave the fine kinds of turbans and none of other clothes produced by the Jadars but all those made by the Kaikolas. The fineness of the textiles made by them is
for superior than that produced by other castes of weavers.
4. Saliars Weave the same clothes as Jadars in every respect and they only differ in caste.
5. Cheniwars Weave the same clothes as Kaikolar and also the turbans.
6. Saurashtra
Saurashtra is one of the important immigrant communities of Tamil Nadu. As they are specialists in Pattunool (silk thread), they are called as Pattunulkaran (one who
weaves textiles using silk thread). They are distributed mainly in Salem, Madurai, Tirunelveli, Virudhunagar, Dindugal and Thanjavur Districts. In Tamil Nadu they are called Saurashtras, meaning people of Saurashtra region of Gujarat state. The major
source of income for the Saurashtra community is weaving. Some of them have their own looms and take yarn from the weavers societies or from private businessmen and supply the finished goods. For this they are paid according to the items woven, such as sari,
towel, plain cloth and dhoti.
121
i- mRiknu ds fy, rduhd
Åij dgs vuqlkj] QykbZ “kV~y ywe rFkk Fkzs “kV~y ywe tSls nks rjg dh vkStkj mi;ksx fd;s tkrs gSaA QykbZ “kV~y yweksa dks lk/kkjr% lknk Cykmlk rFkk
“kfVZax esa mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS tSls fdlh Hkh fMtkbu ds fcuk vkSj Fkz ks “kV~y dks
dksjoS izdkj ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS tSls n`< ckMZj fMtkbuA
js”keh /kksrh dks mRiknu djus esa varfuZfgr Hkkx fuEu gS%
1- Lys
2- FkzsMy
3- jhM 4- ghYM
5- n< ckMZj fMokbt
6- eksM che
7- diMs jksyj
8- fiuZ ds lkFk “kV~y 9- yhLV jkWM
10- ifjoV~Ve vkSj rIiS dV~VS
11- fie ds lkFk pØ
12- MkWch vkSj tsDoMZ e”khu
ii- Hkkxksa dk ljs[ku % ywe dh cukoV
eksM dksus ftl jhM ds tfj;s pyrs gS mls Lys ds lkFk lqwn`< fd;k tkrk
gSA mls gkFk ls ekuoh; rkSj ij izpkyu fd;k tkrk gSA nksuksas FkzsMy dks ghYM ds lkFk tqMk;k tkrk gS vkSj yhl jkWMksa ds lkFk la;kstu ls] cquus dh izfØ;k ds
nkSjku “kV~y dks vko”;d “ksfM~Max iznku djrk gSA “kV~Vy esa fize jgrk gS
ftlij osQV ;kuZ dks yisVk tkrk gSA cqurs oDr vko”;d ruko dks iznku djus
ds fy, okiZ che dks ewyr% fMtkbu fd;k x;k gS vkSj DykFk jksyj dks cquk;s x;s
diMs dks ohy djus ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA “kV~y ,d vksj ls nwljs vksj pyrk gS vkSj ,d vksj ls nwljs vksj gkFk }kjk Qsadk tkrk gSA okiZokj /kkxk dks
^,aM^ dgk tkrk gS tcfd osQVokj /kkxk dks ^fiDl^ dgk tkrk gSA tqykgksa }kjk
mi;ksfxr jhM dks cka Wl ydMh ls mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA
122
The power struggle between the British and the French and the occasional Maratta
invasions often interfered with this trade and cloth was damaged in transport or storage.
In such cases, the weavers were asked to pay back the advances or make good the lost or
damaged portion. Because of this and also the variety of taxes levied on thread, loom,
etc., the company faced certain problems in engaging the weavers to produce cloth
exclusively for it. Therefore an "investment" was established as soon as the area came
under the control of the company in 1792 and efforts were redoubled to exploit fully the
weaving craft of "the Salem Country".
The number of looms in the district at that time was 1963 distributed among
Atthur, Kattuputthur, Namakkal, Paramathi, Salem and Sendhamangalam. Of this, a total
of 598 were in the service of the company. The number probably kept increasing until the
insensitive methods adopted by the commercial residency made the "investment" again
unpopular. The investment itself ceased with the departure of JM Heath in 1825
(J) Method of Production: The chief tools used in this Industry are Fly shuttle and Throw Shuttle.In Salem the bulk
of Silk Dhothies are woven on fly shuttle looms. The texture in silk fabrics is tight and
close as that of Lungies. This type of texture needs a special requisite skill and needs
patience to produce fabrics of high picks on Fly shuttle loom and Throw shuttle for
producing solid Border design.
i. Techniques Of Production
Equipment and Tools:
As mentioned above, 2 types of tools used are Fly shuttle looms and Throw shuttle looms. Fly shuttle looms are normally engaged in weaving plain blouses and shirting pieces i.e. without any design, and Throw shuttle for producing Korvai Variety i.e. Solid Border design.
123
iii- dPpk lkexzh
/kksrh rFkk js”keh /kkxk] tjh vkSj fufeyh /kkxk tks yseu vkjat jax ds lkFk MkbZ fd;s gq, js”keh /kkxk gS mRiknu esa mi;ks fxr dPpk lkexzh
1- js”keh /kkxk dks “kjhj ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS tSls okiZ vkSj
osQ~V 2- tjh dks ckMZj vkSj iYyq ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS ftls {ks=h;
Hkk’kk esa dach dgrs gS
3- fufeyh (jaxhu js”ke ;kuZ) dks ckMZj ds fy, tjh ds lkFk egRoiw.kZ
izHkko ikus ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA
iv- tjh
242 xzke otu dh ,d ekdZ esa 2200 ls 2400 xt dh 4 ckWfcu miyC/k gSA
js”keh /kkxk dks xqIr j[kus ds fy, Qkbyspj jhMM dPpk js”ke ds Åij pkSjl
fd;s x;s flYoj dks yisVk tkrk gSA js”keh /kksrh dh mRiknu ds mi;ksfxr lksu s
ls flYoj /kkxk dks ysi fd;k tkrk gSA rfeyukMq tjh fyV] tks dkaWphiqje esa dk;Z”khy jkT; m+|e] dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbfV;ksa dks tjh vkiwfrZ djrk gSA
bl tjh esa fuEu miyC/k gS
flYoj 57-00 izfr”kr
js”ke 24-00 izfr”kr
lksuk 0-60 izfr”kr
dkWij 18-40 izfr”kr
tjh xq.krk dk rfeyukMq tjh fyV] dkaWphiqje }kjk ijh{k.k fd;k tkrk gS
tks rfeyukMq ljdkj dk ,d m|e gSA vxj bl ijh{k.k esa Åij fn;s x;s /kkrqvksa
dh deh ik tkrh gS rks] tjh dks vLohdr fd;k tkrk gS vkSj mRikndksa dks okil
fd;k tkrk gSA lgh fo’k;oLrq ds lkFk tjh ek= dks js”ke lkexzh cukus ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tk,xkA
124
The parts that are involved for producing Silk Dhoties are
1. Slay
2. Treadle
3. Reed
4. Healds
5. Solid Border device
6. Warp beam
7. Cloth Roller
8. Shuttle with Pirn
9. Lease rods
10. Parivattam and Tappal Kattai
11. Charka with Pirn
12. Dobby & Jacquard Machine
ii. Alignment of the Parts: Structure of the Loom
The reed through which the warp ends passes is fixed to the Slay. It is manually
operated by hand. The two treadles are attached to the healds and in conjunction with the
lease rods provide the necessary shedding for the shuttle to pass through in the process of
weaving. The shuttle contains the prim on which the weft yarn is wound. The warp beam
is primarily designed to provide the necessary tension while weaving and the cloth roller
is used to veel the cloth woven. The shuttle travels to and fro and is thrown by hand from
one end to the other end. The warpwise threads are called "ends" while the weftwise
threads are known as "picks". The reeds used by weavers are manufactured out of
bamboo sticks at Salem. The steel reed are not used because of corrosion.
iii. Raw Materials
Raw Materials used in the manufacturing process of Dhoties are Silk thread, Zari
and Nimili thread which is also a silk thread dyed with lemon orange colour.
125
mRiknu izfØ;k
1- okiZ
rS;kj okiZ dks rfeyukMq ljdkj ds gSaMywe rFkk VsDLVkby foHkkx ds
VsuflYd ls [kjhnk tk,xkA okiZ lhch jkW flYd ek= gSA tqykgk }kjk jkWflYd dk
MhtfEeax fd;k tkrk gS vkSj fQj cqukus ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA
lsye lQsn js”keh lkefxz;ksa esa mi;ksfxr js”ke lad.k (lhch) js”ke oke Z
ddwu ls mRikfnr gS] tks ;k rks ihys jax ds gksrs gS ;k /kaq /kyk lQsn gksrs gSA
eqMko ds fy, bu ddwu ls js”ke dks Cyhp fd;k tkrk gS rkfd ;g js”keh ;ku Z
“kqn~/k lQsn jax esa pedsaxsA mi;qZDr Msfy;j xq.krk ds lkFk nks js”keh /kkxksa dks
,dlkFk ,saBk tk,xk rkfd ;kuZ dh “kfDr dks c<k ldsaA ;g lsye OgkbV js”ke lkefxz;ksa ds fy, vuks[kh gSA ;gh rfeyukMq jkT; ds vU; {ks=ksa esa lkM+h cquus ds
fy, rS;kj fd;s tkusokys js”ke ls ewy fHkUurk gS A
2- MhxfEeax
izR;sd okiZ ;k osQV ;kuZ yxHkx ,d ikmaM dk gksrk gS (yxHkx 0-5 ds th) bl otu dks ^FkMk^ dgk tkrk gSA FkMkvksa dks dkWij cjruksa esa rhu ;k ikaWp feuV
Mqck;k tkrk gS ftlesa BaMk ikuh jgrk gSA fQj mUgsa fupksM+ k tkrk gS vkSj 3^x11 1@2^ dh nks ckaWl dh iksyksa ds vUnj Mqcks;k tkrk gSA brus esa] yxHkx 4 xsyu
ikuh dks 2^ Mk;ehVj rFkk 3 1@2^ ÅaWpkbZ dh dkWij cjru esa ckbfyax fcUnq rd
xje fd;k tkrk gS A ;w,l,uih, lkcqu dh ,d ckWj ftldk otu yxHkx 600 xzke gS dks xje ikuh esa fi/kyk tkrk gSa bl lkcqu dks uhac w vkSj dkfLVd lksMk]
ukfj;y rsy rFkk jsflu ds lkFk LFkkuh; rS;kj fd;k tkrk gSA FkMk dks bl ikuh
esa Mqck;k tkrk gS vkSj 2 ls 3 feuV varjkyksa esa yxkrkj ?kqek;k tkrk gSA FkMk dks
?kqekrs oDr os nksuksa ,d nwljs ls laidZ u vk;sa bl ij lrdZrk fuHkk;k tk,aW] tc
rd fd ikuh mlesa gksaA 15 feuVksa ds ckn ;g ik;k tkrk gS fd js”keh dk ygjs ekjrk gqvk fn[kkoV gS tks ladsr nsrk gS fd MhxfEeax izfØ;k iwfrZ gks x;k gSA
;kuZ dks fQj fupksM+k tkrk gS vkSj vyx vyx cjruksa esa /kksdj lkQ fd;k tkrk
gSA izR;sd cjru esa 4 ;k 5 xsyu ikuh miyC/k gSaA lsye “kgj esa mi;ks fxr ikuh
esa dPpk js”ke dks ped iznku djus vPNk xq.krk miyC/k gSA MhxfEeax dks [kqy s
txg esas 1 ehVj Mk;ehVj vkdkj ds xM~<k] ftlesa jsr rFkk tkWyh (xzkukbV iscy) Hkjk x;k gS] esa fuiVk;k tkrk gSA
126
1. Silk thread is used for body i.e. Warp and Weft
2. Zari is used for Border and Pallu locally termed as Kambi
3. Nimili (coloured silk yarn) is used for Border with Zari for prominent
effect.
iv. Zari
One marc weighing 242 grams contains 5 bobbins with a length of 2200 to 2400
yards. Flattened Silver is coiled round filature reeded raw silk conceal the silk thread.
This silver thread is coated with gold used in the production of silk Dhoties. Tamil Nadu
Zari Ltd., a state owned unit functioning at Kanchipuram, supply the zari to Co-operative
Societies.
The Zari contains :
Silver : 57.00%
Silk : 24.00%
Gold : 0.60%
Copper : 18.40%
The Zari quality is tested by the Tamil Nadu Zari Ltd, Kancheepuram, a unit of
Government of Tamil Nadu. If the test results indicate lower contents of the above
metals, the Zari will be rejected and returned to the manufacturers. Only the Zari with
correct contents will be used in making the Silk Products.
Manufacturing Process
1. Warp
The ready warp is purchased from Tansilk of the Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of TamilNadu. The warp is CB rawsilk only. The rawsilk is degummed by weavers and then used for weaving.
127
3- Cyhfpax
js”ke ;kuZ dks Cyhp djus ds fy, fuEu jlk;u dk mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS
1- lksMk jk[k & 0-080 xzke
2- lksfM;e gkbMªks lYQsV & 0-030 xzke
3- MCY;wth Vhuksiky & 0-015 xzke 4- tehu dh ikuh & 20 fyVj
mi;qZDr lHkh jlk;uksa dks ikuh esa fi/kyk tkrk gS ikuh dks 15 feuV rd
xje fd;k tkrk gSaA ,d cka Wl ydMh dks mi;ksx djrs mls yxkrkj ?kqek;k tkrk
gSA bl izfdz;k yxHkx 6 ?kaVs ysrk gSA
6 ?kaVs ds ckn] js”ke ;kuZdks gVk;k tkrk gS vkSj izfr fdyksxzke js”ke ds
fy, 20 fyVj lY;w”kUk esa 2 ckj lkQ fd;k tkrk gSA mlds ckn 50 ,e,y
vflfVd vfey dks ikuh esa tksMk tkrk gS vkSj ?kqek;k tkrk gS rkfd js”ke ;ku Z
lQsn jax dk gks tk;saA js”ke ;kuZ dks fQj ,d ckj ikuh ls lkQ fd;k tkrk gSA bl lkQ fd;s x;sA
;s ikuh dks blds fy, igys gh mi;skfxr x<~Ms esa [kqys txgksa esa fuiVk
tkrk gSA yxHkx 2 ;k 3 fdyksxzkek js”ke ;kuZ dks izfr ywe esa mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS vkSj bl izfdz;k ,d eghus esa ,d ckj viuk;k tkrk gSA bl izfØ;k ls dksb Z
iznw’k.k leL;k ugha mBrhA
bu dk;ksZa dks tqykgksa }kjk ijaijkxr rkSj ij fd;k tkrk gSA Cyhfpax
viukusokys fdlh Hkh O;fDr ds Ropk esa fdlh Hkh ck/kk ;k jksx vc rd mRiUu ugha gqbZ gSA
3- Mªsfalax
tqykgk tks bl okiZ dks izkIr djrk gS (ftlesa 6000 dksus gksrs gSa) vkxs ,sls
c<rk gS %
okiZ dks [kqys txg esa [kksydj ,d Mªsflax fn;k tkrk gSA blds fy,] eksVs
ckaWl ydfM;ksa dks ysdj Øklokbl lqn< j[kk tkrk gS rFkk tehu esa fLFkj j[ks x;s
,d isx ds Åij ikWl gksusokys jLlh ls lqn`< fd;k tkrk gSA okiZ dks fQj izR;sd
dksus esa ywfiax djds bu ckaWlqvksa ds Åij c<+k;k tkrk gSA /kwy rFkk eSys dks /kkxksa ls gVk;k tkrk gS vkSj VwVs dksuksa dks Bhd fd;k tkrk gSA mlds ckn okfiaZx dks
fuEu rkSj ij gVk;k tkrk gS %
128
The Silk used in Salem White Silk goods is produced from cross Breed Silk Worm Cocoons, which are either yellow or dull white in colour. For the warp the silk from
these cocoons is bleached, so that the silk yarn will be shining pure white in colour. Two such silk threads with the above Denier quality will be twisted together for increased strength of the yarn. This again is unique to the Salem White Silk goods. This
is the basic difference from the silk made for weaving sarees in other places in Tamil Nadu State.
2. Degumming
Each warp or weft yarn weighs about one pound (approximately 0.5 kg). This
weight is known as "THADA”. Thadas are immersed in a copper vessel containing cold
water for three to five minutes. They are then squeezed and inserted into two bamboo
poles of size 3' x 11½'. In the meantime, about 4 gallons of water are heated to boiling
point in a copper pot of diameter 2’ and height 31/2’. One bar of USNA SOAP weighing
about 600 grams is dissolved in the boiling water. This soap is made locally with lime
and caustic soda, coconut oil and resin. The Thadas are immersed in this bath and
constantly turned at intervals of 2 to 3 minutes. While turning the Thadas care is taken to
ensure that they do not come into contact with the sides of the vessel unless there is
water. After 15 minutes, it is found that the silk has a wavy appearance, which indicates
that the process of degumming is complete. The yarn is then squeezed and rinsed thrice in
three separate vessels. Each vessel containing four to five gallons of water. The water
used at Salem city possess good quality of impacting lustre to raw silk. The degumming
is be disposed off in the open area in a pit with a size of 1 mtr diameter filled with sand
and jally (granite pebbles).
3. Bleaching For bleaching Silk Yarn the following chemicals are used:
1. Soda ash – 0.080 gm
2. Sodium Hydro sulphate – 0.030 gm
129
,d O;fDr ,d vksj dksus dks gVkrs gq, [kMs gksrs gS] okiZ dks vius nks ckgksa
esa yisVk nsrs gS rkfd ;g ,d ywi cukrk gS tc rd fd og 2@3 Hkkx rd
igqaWprk gSA mlds ckn og ywi fd;s x;s okiZ dks gVkrk gS vkSj tc vU; vksj rd igqaprk gS rks ;kuZ dks gSad ds :i esa fV~oLV djrk gSA
4- ihflax
ywe dsa jhM ckaWl ls cuk gqvk gSA jhM dk otu gS 54^ gSA ghYM ds Åij
rFkk uhps Hkkx esa nks ckaWl ydfM;kaW gksrs gSA budk vk;ke jhM ds tSls gksrs gSA
vU; Hkkx gS ^iqful^ ;k “ksfM~Max jkWM ftUgsa ghy ls 6^^ nwjh ij j[kk tkrk gSA ywe
ij igys gh cquk;s x;s /kksrh ds iqjkus ;kuZ ds dqN Hkkx] /kksrh dks dkV fn;s tku s
ds ckn oSls gh jgrk gSA bl Lrj ds nkSjku] ubZ :i ls rS;kj fd;s x;s izR;sd ;kuZ ;k /kkxk dks] fiNys /kksrh ds laca f/kr /kkxk ds lkFk layXu fd;k tkrk gSA
iqful ;k “ks fM~Max jkWM u;s okiZ esas tqMs tkus ds igys iqjkus okiZ dh O;fDrxr /kkxk
dks vyx djus esa lgk;rk djrk gSA ;g ,d lao snu”khy rFkk /khjs izfØ;k gS
vkSj blds fy, tqykgs esa mRre {kerk rFkk “kkafr dh vko”;drk gksrh gSA bl
izfØ;k vkSlre tqykgs ds O;fDrxr {kerk ij vk/kkfjr djds 8 ls 12 ?kaVs rd ysrk gS A
5- vYyqfifMFky (okiZ dh rS;kjh)
iqjkus okiZ ds “ks’k ds lkFk tqMk;s x;s u;s okiZ dks fQj vxys izfØ;k ds fy, lMdksa esa foLrkj fd;k tkrk gS ftls {ks=h; “kCnksa esa vyqfifMFky dgk tkrk
gS rkfd ;g lqfuf”pr dj ldsa fd lHkh dksus le gS vkSj my>k ugha gSA VwV s
dksus] vxj dqN gks rks mls Hkh Bhd fd;k tk,xkA bl fLFkfr esa gh tqykgk ghyksa
vkSj jhM dks vkxs nckrk gS rkfd u;s okiZ ds dksus dks jhM rFkk ghYM ds vUnj y s
vkldsaA okiZ ds nksuksa vksj nks O;fDr [kMs gksaxs vkSj lQsn dikl /kkxk ds lkFk 12 fiDl cqukus ds fy, ghYM dks izpkyu djsaxsA os Fkzks “kV~y dks u;s okiZ ds bl
vksj ls ml vksj dh vksj esfuiqysV djsaxs rkfd jhM okiZ ls ckgj u pys tk,aWA
bl izpkyu ds var esa] ookiZ dks vkSj ,d ckj jksy fd;k tkrk gS vkSj ywe ij
yk;k tkrk gS tgkaW jhM dks ywe ds Dys ds lkFk lqn< fd;k tkrk gSA bl izpkyu ds fy, yxHkx 2 yxrk gSA rS;kjh vc iwfrZ gks x;h gS vkSj okLrfod
cqukuk vc “kq: gksxhA bl izfØ;k dks lqcg ds le; gh fd;k tkrk gS tc BaMk
gSA
130
3. Ground water – 20 litre
All the above chemicals are dissolved in water. The water is boiled for 15 minutes. A
bamboo pole is used to rotate continuously. This process takes nearly 6 hours.
After 6 hours silk yarn is removed and 2 times rinsed in 20 lit of the solution per kg of
silk. After that 50 ml Acetic Acid is added in water and continued rotating the silk to
make the silk yarn bright white in colour. The silk yarn is again rinsed in water three
times. The rinsed water is disposed off in the open places in pits already used for the
purpose. About 2 to 3 kg of silk yarn is used at a time per loom and this process is done
one time in a month. There is no pollution problem in this process.
These works are done traditionally by the weavers. There is no disease or skin afflictions
to the people who undertake bleaching.
4. Dressing
The weaver who receives the warp (containing 6000 Ends) proceeds as follows:
The warp is given a dressing by stretching it out in the open. For this purpose,
stout bamboo poles are taken, fixed cross-wise and firmly secured by a rope passing over
a peg firmly fixed to the ground. The warp is then stretched over these bamboos by
looping them at each end. Dust and dirt are removed from the threads, and broken ends
are mended. Afterwards the warping is removed as follows:
One-person stands at one side removing the ends, rolls the warp round his two
arms so that it forms loop until he reaches two thirds the way. Afterwards, he removes the
looped warp and proceeds to twist the yarn into a hank when he reaches the other side.
131
6- okiZ dks ywe rd ys tkuk
my>u gksus ls jksdus ds fy, ;kuZ dks ywe ij 18 lsXesaV esa foHkkftr fd;k
tkrk gS A mldh ,d dksus dks diMs che (iM eje) ls lqn< fd;k tkrk gS vkSj
nwljs dksus dks okiZ che (vksMq dV~Vs) ls lqn`< fd;k tkrk gSA diMs che rFkk okiZ
che ds chp nwjh 12 QqV gSA lkekU; 4 xt /kksrh ds fy,] okiZ dks bl nwjh rd
foLrkj fd;k tkrk gS rkfd 3 xt dh /kksrh cquk ldsaA bl yackbZ rd cqukus ds
ckn] okiZ dks fQj ,d ckj foLrkj djuk gS rkfd 4 xt /kksrh cuk ldsaA vxj
nwjh 12 QqV ls de gS rks tqykgk mls fQj foLrkj fd;s fcuk 3 xt cquk ugha ik,xkA blfy, mUgsa bls vkSj ,d ckj foLrkj djuk iMsxk ,d izfØ;k tks vf/kd
nq[knk;d gks ldrk gSA foLrkj fd;s x;s okiZ dh nwjh dks ,slk gksuk pkfg, fd
;g cqukrs oDr ncko dks lqfuf”pr djsa ldsa vkSj Lys dh ljy izpkyu ds fy,
i;kZIr jguk gSA
7- cqukuk
ifjoV~Ve dh lgk;rk ds lkFk fi zu ij yisVs x;s js”ke ;kuZ 3 ;k 4 IykbZ
;kuZ rd gks ldrk gS vkSj dyQ ij Mqck;k tkrk gSA bl fizu dks “kV~y esa bUlVZ fd;k tkrk gS vkSj tqykgk ywe dh nk;kaW VªªsMy dks uhps dh vksj nckrk gS rkfd
okiZ dh vko”;d ”ksfM~Max izkIr dj ldsa] “kV~y dks nk,aW vksj Qsasdrk gS vkSj ck,aW
vksj Qsadrk gS vkSj fid dks ekjrk gSA nk;kaW VªsMy dks fjyht fd;k tkrk gS vkSj
,d ckj ck;kaW FkzsMy dks uhps dh vksj nck;k tkrk gS rkfd “ksfM~Max izkIr dj ldsas
vkSj tqykgk vc FkzsMy dks ck,aW vksj ls nk,aW vksj Qsadrk gSA nks fid dks ,sls cquk;k tkrk gSA bl le; Vk;e ckMZj fMtkbu dks Hkh] fMtkbu lsVvi ds vuqlkj ywe
ij tsDoMZ dks layXu djds mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA
bl izdkj ds /kksrh] eqaFkh ;k iYyq dks cqurs oDr] tjh ftls {ks=h; Hkk’kk e sa
dach dgk tkrk gS dks cquk;k tkrk gSA eqaFkh ds fy, dksbZ fof”k’V fMtkbu ugha gSA ;g ckMZj fMtkbu ds vuqlkj 5 ;k 10 ckj cquk;s x;s tjh /kkxk ek= gSA
ckMZj esa Lo;a tjh vkSj js”ke ;kuZ ftls fufeyh /kkxk dgrs gS (4 tjh ;ku Z
dks ,d dqfyxS dgrs gS) miyC/k gSaA cqukus ds ckn rFkk diMs jksyj ij /kksrh dks
jksy djus ds igys] xe dks /kk srh ij iz;ksx djrs gSA fQj mls iw.kZ :i ls lw[kk
tkrk gS vkSj diMs jksyj ij jksy fd;k tkrk gsA bl izfdz;k fu;fEr :i ls tkjh
jgsxhA
132
5. Piecing
The reeds in the loom are made of bamboo. The size of reed is 54’. The healds
consist of two bamboo poles at the top and two at the bottom. The dimensions of these
are similar to the reeds. The other parts are the "Punis" or the shedding rods placed at a
distance of 6" from the heels. Certain portions of the old yarn of the Dhothy already
woven on the loom remains behind after the Dhothy has been cut out. During this stage
each yarn or thread of the newly prepared warp is attached to the corresponding thread of
the previous Dhothy. The Punis or shedding rods assist in separating the individual
threads of the old warp before it is joined to the new warp. This is a delicate and slow
process and requires great skill and patience on the part of the weaver. This process takes
anything between 8 to 12 hours depending on the individual’s ability of an average
weaver.
6. Allupiditthal (Preparation of Warp)
The new warp which has been joined to the remnants of the old warp is again
stretched in the streets for the next process known locally as Allupiditthal i.e., to ensure
that all ends are even and are not tangled. Broken ends, if any, are also mended. It is at
this stage that the weaver pushes forward the heals and the reed to as to bring the end of
the new warp within the reed and healds. Two persons stand on either side of the warp
and operate the healds to weave 12 picks with white cotton thread. They manipulate the
throw shuttle from end to end of the new warp so that the reed may not slip out of the
warp. At the end of this operation, the warp is once again rolled and brought to the loom
where the reed is fixed to the clay of the loom. This operation takes about two hours. The
preparation is now complete and the actual weaving operation commences. This process
is done during morning time only, when it is cool.
133
8- ckMZj fMtkbu
lsye dh js”ke /kks fr;kaW mudh ped rFkk lQsnh rFkk mudh rduhdh Js’Brk vkSj ckMZj fMtkbu esa uohurk ds fy, U;k;laxr :i ls izfln~/k gSA
tqykgk }kjk cqukus ds fy, ikjaifjd rjhds viuk;s tkus ij Hkh] os vf/keku es
ifjorZu rFkk xzkgdksa dh okaNk ds lkFk dne dne c<kus dh dksf”k”k dh gSA
bl nwjnf”kZr nf’V ds dkj.k gh lsye dh js”ke /kks fr;kasa dh ekaWx c<rh tk jgh gS vkSj nksuks a vehj rFkk e/;e oxZ ifjokjksa dh lHkh rjg dh vk”kkvksa dks iw frZ dj
ik jgh gSA fookg le;ksa esa lHkh js”ke /kksrh iguuk gh pkgrs gSa AckMZj lkbt gS
2^^ & 6^^A cgqr gh izfln~/k fMtkbu uhps fn;k tk jgk gS
1- uxpV~VS 2- dEey
3- guhdksac
4- osoh Vkbi
5- ,yvkbZlh fMtkbu
6- xsgwwaW 7- jkstk ds lkFk MkeaM
8- dksMh ckMZj fMtkbu
9- ekfoyS fMtkbu
10- lksus dh isV~Vq ds lkFk eqRrq
lkexzh xq.krk fu;a=.k
mPp {kerk lsye osuiV~Vq dks izkIr djus ds fy,] izR;sd iathdr
dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh esa] js”ke diMs dks fuEu xq.krk y{k.k dks ijh{k.k djus ds fy, ,d ;k nks ewY;kadd gksrs gS a %
1- /kks fr;ksa] vaxoL=e rFkk “kfVZax dh yackbZ o xgjkbZ
2- okiZ dksus rFkk osQV fid
3- /kks fr;ksa vkSj vaxoL=ksa dh ckMZj dksus 4- Bhd ls eksMuk
mRiknu esa mi;ksfxr “kqn~/k js”ke dh xq.krk vk”oklu ds fy, dsUnzh; js”ke
cksMZ }kjk ^flYd ekdZ ^% ds fy, vuqikyu fd;s tkusokys iSjkehVj dks viuk;k x;k
gSA blesa lk/kkj.k Qyse ijh{k.k rFkk ekbØØksLdksfid ijh{k.k lfEefyr gS ftlls fd diMs dh “kqn~/krk dks lqfuf”pr dj ldsaA ;g {k.kksa esa ifj.kke ns nsrk gSA
vxj diMs /khjs ls tyrk gS rFkk dkyk vo”ks’k NksMdj gS vkSj tys gq, cky ds
tSls xa/k vkrh gS rks ;g “kqn~/k js”ke gSA
134
7. Getting the Warp to the Loom
The yarn is divided on the loom in to 18 segments to avoid tangling. One end of it
is fixed to the cloth beam (Pada maram) and the other end to warp beam (Oodu kattai).
The distance between the cloth beam and the warp beam is 12 ft. For a normal 4 yards
Dhothy, the warp has to be stretched to this distance in order to weave 3 yards of the
dhothy. After weaving this length the warp has to be stretched once again to make a 4
yards saree. If the distance is less than 12 feet, the Weaver cannot weave three yards
without stretching it again. Hence he may have to stretch it more than once, a process,
which is likely to be rather cumbersome. The length of the stretched warp should be such
as to ensure tension while weaving and should be adequate enough for the free operation
of the slay.
8. Weaving
The silk yarn wound on prin with the help of parivattam may be 3 or 4-ply yarn
and immersed on rice starch. This prin is inserted into the shuttle and the weaver presses
down the right treadle of the loom to obtain the necessary shedding of the warp, throws
the shuttle from the right hand side, to the left hand side and the pick is beaten. The right
treadle is released and the left treadle pressed down to once again to obtain the shedding
and the weaver now throws the shuttle from the left to the right. Two picks are thus
woven in this manner. In the mean time border design is also produced by attaching the
jacquard on the loom according to the design setup.
While weaving this type of dhothy, munthi or pallu, the Zari locally named as
kambi is woven. There is no specific design for this munthi. It is only Zari thread woven
5 to 10 times according to border design.
The border itself contains zari and silk yarn called Nimili thread (4 zari yarn
called one kuligai). After weaving and before rolling the dhothy on cloth roller, gum is
applied on dhothy. Then it is dried completely and rolled on cloth roller. This process
will continue regularly.
135
ds- vuks[kkiu
lsye js”ke Qkbcj dk eq[; vkd’kZ.k gS mldh pedA MhxfEeax ds fy, mi;ksfxr ikuh esa dqN xq.k/keZ gksrs gS rkfd js”ke esa ped dk izHkko Mky ldsaA
lsye “kgj esa mi;ksfxr ikuh esa fo”ks’k xq.krk miyC/k gS ftlls fd dPpk js”ke
esa ped izHkkfor fd;k tk, vkSj ;gh lQsnh ds fy, ,d dkj.k gks ldrk gS rFkk
lsye esa n< cqfu;kn j[kusokys js”keh /kksrh dh ped ds fy, HkhA ckMZj esa tjh rFkk dach ds :i esa iYyw Hkh vuks[kh gSA {ks=h; tqykgs esa] lsye lQsn js”ke
/kksrh] vaxoL=e rFkk “kfVZax tSls vuks[kh js”ke lkexzh cukus dh {kerk miyC/k gSa
,y- ijh{k.k ckWMh
lsye osuiV~Vq dgs tkusokys lsye flYd dh xq.krk dks lqfuf”pr djus
rFkk lsye osuiV~Vq dgs tkusokys lsye flYd dh xq.krk dks fu;a=.k esa j[kus ds
fy,] dsUnz rFkk jkT; ljdkjh laxBuksa rFkk m|ksxksa dks izfrfuf/kRo djusokys 10
(nl) O;fDr lfEefyr ,d Lok;Rr xq.krk fu;a=.k ckWMh dk gSMywe o VsDLVkby
foHkkx] rfeyukMq ljdkj ls LFkkfir fd;k x;kA
136
9. Border Designs
The silk Dhothies of Salem are justly famed for their lustre and whiteness and
their technical excellence and novelty of border design. Eventhough the traditional
methods of weaving are adopted by the weavers, they have tried to keep pace with the
changes in preferences and tastes of consumers. It is precisely because of this far-sighted
policy that the Silk Dhothies of Salem have a steady demand and are able to cater to all
varieties of tastes of both rich and middle class families. On marriage occasions all are
keen to wear this silk Dhothy only. The size of border is 2" - 6". The most popular
designs are given below:
1. Nagachattai
2. Kammal
3. Honey Comb
4. Wavy type
5. LIC Design
6. Wheat
7. Diamond with Roja
8. Kodi Border Design
9. Mavilai Design
10. Muthu with Gold Pettu
Product Quality Control:
To get the high quality Salem Venpattu, each registered Co-operative Society is having
one or two appraisers to check the silk cloth in all the following quality attributes:
1. Length and width of dhothies, angavastrams and shirting pieces.
2. Warp ends and weft picks.
3. Border ends of dhothies, and angavastrams.
4. Clean folding.
137
For the quality assurance of the pure silk used in the production of the quality
parameters adopted for the “Silk Mark” by the Central Silk Board were followed.
They included mainly a simple flame test, and a microscopic test to ascertain the
purity of the fabric. It gives the results in seconds. If the fabric burns slowly leaving a
black residue and smells like burnt hair, it is pure silk.
(K) Uniqueness: The chief attraction of the Salem silk fabric is its lustre. The water used for degumming
has certain properties in order to impact lustre to silk. The water used at Salem city
possess this unique quality of impacting lustre to raw silk and this may be one of the
reasons for the whiteness and shining of Silk Dhothy which has taken firm root in Salem.
The zari in the border and pallu in the form of kambi is also unique. The local weavers
have the skill to produce such unique silk products, namely, Salem White Silk Dhothies,
Angavastrams and Shirtings.
(L) Inspection body: A Quality Control body is being established by Department of Handlooms & Textiles,
Government of Tamil Nadu, which is autonomous and consists of not less than ten
members representing Central & State Government Organizations and Industries in order
to control the quality and to maintain the quality of Salem Silks Known as Salem
Venpattu.
138
139
th vkbZ vkosnu la- 93
gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx] rfeyukMq ljdkj] dqjyxe (f}rh; eafty)] psUuS 108] Hkkjr }kjk dksoS dksjk dikl lkMh;ksa ds jftLVj ds Hkkx , esa] VsDLVkby vkSj
VSdLVkby lkexzh rFkk lkM+h vkSj :eky Qkfyax lfEefyr diMs Øe”k% oxZ 24]
25 esa iMusokys lkfM+;kaW lfEefyr gS ds laca/k esa] vkosnu la-93 ds v/khu iathdj.k
ds fy, vkosnu fd;k tkrk gS] dks lkefxz;ksa dk HkkSxks fyd laadsr (iathdj.k o
lqj{kk) vf/kfu;e 1999 ds /kkjk 13 mi/kkjk 1 ds v/khu Lohdr foKkfir fd;k
tkrk gSA
vkosnd % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
izfrfuf/k
Jh ih- lat; xkaW/kh
vf/koDrk 6 ykW psEcj
mPp U;k;ky;] psUubZ 600104
irk % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
dqjyxe (II eafty)
psUuS 108
HkkSxks fyd ladsr % dksoS dksjk dikl lkfM+;kaW
oxZ % 24 vkSj 25
lkexzh % VsDLVkby o VsDLVkby lkexzh vkSj diMs ftlesa
lkM+h lfEefyr gS
140
G.I. – APPLICATION NUMBER 93 Application is made by Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu. Kuralagam, (II Floor), Chennai - 600 108 India for registration in Part A of the register of KOVAI KORA COTTON SAREES” under Application No 93 in respect of
Textiles and Textile goods, and Clothing including Sarees falling in Class 24, and 25 respectively is hereby advertised as accepted under sub-section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
Applicant : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu
Represented by Mr. P. SANJAI GANDHI
Advocate 6, Law Chamber High Court of Madras
Chennai – 600104
Address : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamilnadu
Kuralagam, (II Floor), Chennai - 600108
Geographical Indication : KOVAI KORA COTTON SAREES Class : 24 and 25 Goods : Textiles and Textile goods, and Clothing including Sarees
141
,- vkosnd % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
ch- irk % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
dqjyxe (II eafty)
psUuS 600 108
¼x½ O;fDr@mRiknd@laxBu@izf/kdkj % laxBu@ izkf/kdj.k
la?k dh lwph
Øe
la[k;k
iathdj.k
la[;k
cqudj lgdkjh lekt
dk uke
irk
1 ds 1317 vyaaxksEcw nsoaxk MCY;w-lh-
,l
eSu jksM+] vyaxksEcw]
eSV~Vqiky;e rkyqd]
fl#eqxb & 641302
2 lh,p 119 vyaxksEcw gSaMywe MCY;w-lh-
,l
rUuhj iaMy] vyaxksEcw ¼}kjk½
fl#eqxb & 641302
3 lh ,p 79 vyaxksEcw Jh lkSmns”ojh eSau jksM+] vyaxksEcw eSV~Vqiky;e
rkyqd] fl#eqxM & 641353
4 lh ,p
118
vEeu exfyj MCY;w lh
,l
vkouk'kh jksM+] vUuwj
dks;EcVwj & 641602
5 ds 1453 vauwj dqekjiky;e
dkek{kh vEeu
vauwj] vkouk'kh & 6411603
142
(A) Name of the Applicant : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu
(B) Address : Department of Handlooms and Textiles,
Government of Tamilnadu
Kuralagam, (II Floor), Chennai - 600 108 (C) List of association of persons /
Producers / organization / Authority : Organization / authority
S.NO. REG. NO.
NAME OF THE WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY
ADDRESS
1 K.1317 Alangombu Devanga WCS Main Road, Alangombu,
Mettupalayam Taluk, Sirumugai – 641 302.
2 CH. 119 Alangombu Handloom WCS Thanneer Panthal, Alangombu (Via) Sirumugai – 641 302.
3 CH. 79 Alangombu Sri Sowdeswari Main Road, Alangombu, Mettupalayam Taluk,
Sirumugai – 641 302.
4 CH. 118 Amman Magalir WCS Avanashi Road,Annur, Coimbatore – 641 653
5 K. 1453 Annur Kumarapalayam Kamatchi Amman
Annur, Avanashi – 641 603.
6 CH.91 Arulmigu Kamatchiamman WCS 5/124 – A Pichampalayam Pudur,
P.N. Road, Sri Nagar, Tirupur – 641 603.
143
6 lh ,p 91 vjyfexq dkek{khvEeu
MCY;w- lh- ,l
5@124 ^,* fiNeiky;e iqnwj]
ih-,u- jksM] Jh uxj]
fr#iwj & 641603
7 lh ,p 9 vfouk'kh lkSmMefcxb
MCY;w lh ,l
64] vUcyxu x.ks'kiqje
vkouk'kh & 641654
8 lh ,p 77 Hkxrwj Jh lkSmns'kojh
MCY;w- lh- ,l
U;w jksM+] fl#eqxb ¼}kjk½
eSV~Vqiky;e]
fl#eqxb & 641302
9 lh ,p 115 csykiky;e Jh
lkSmns'kojh
MCY;w lh ,l
csykiky;e iksLV] 299]
izkbejh dks vkijsfVd cSad
dkEiyDl] vUuwj jksM]
fl#eqxb & 641302
10 lh ,p 44 ,ykiky;e Jh lkmns'kojh
MCY;w- lh- ,l
,ykiky;e isLV] iksxywj
¼}kjk½ dks;EcVqj & 641697
11 lh ,l 32 x.kifriky;e MCY;w lh
,l
10] ds- ds- vkj- ysvkÅV]
eaxye jksM]
fr#iqj & 641604
12 Lkh- ,p-
116
bYywiky;e MCY;w- lh-
,l
3@99] iYyFkksre] fl#eqxb]
dks;EcVwj & 641302
13 ds- 1745 dkek{khvEeu MCY;w lh
,l
15] osyeiky;e]
fr#iqj & 641604
144
7 CH.9 Avinashi Sowdambigai WCS 64, Anbazhan
Ganeshapuram Avanashi – 641 654.
8 CH.77 Bagathur Sri Sowdeswari
WCS
New Road, Srimugai (Via)
Mettupalayam, Sirumugai – 641 302.
9 CH.115 Bellapalayam Sri Sowdeswari WCS
Bellapalayam Post, 299, Primary Co-operative Bank Complex, Annur Road,
Sirumugai – 641 302. 10 CH.44 Ellapalayam Sri Sowdeswari
WCS
Ellapalayam Post,
Pogalur (Via) Coimbatore – 641 697.
11 CH.32 Ganapathipalayam WCS 10, K.R.R. Layout, Mangalam Road,
Tirupur – 641 604. 12 CH.116 Illupalayam WCS 3/99,Pazhathottam, Sirumugai,
Coimbatore – 641 302.
13 K.1745 Kamatchiamman WCS 15, Velampalayam Tirupur – 641 604.
14 CH.76 Kanjampatti SRS 1/79, Kanjampatti post Pollachi Taluk – 642 001.
15 CH.162 Kembanayakanpalayam SRS Kembanaickenpalayam Post, Avanashi Taluk, Coimbatore – 641 697.
16 CH.73 Kollupalayam SRS Kollupalayam,
Thippampatti Road, Pollachi – 642 107.
17 CH.31 Kovilvazhi WCS 60, Feet Road, Dharapuram Road, D.S.K. Nagar (Near Govt.Hospital)
Tirupur – 641 608.
145
14 lh- ,p-
76
dateiV~Vh MCY;w- lh- ,l 1@79] dateiV~Vh iksLV]
iksYykph rkyqd & 642001
15 Lkh- ,p-
162
dsEHkuk;duiky;e
,l- vkj- #l
dsEHkuk;duiky;e iksLV]
vkouk;kh rkyqd]
dks;EcVqj & 641697
16 lh ,p 73 dksYywiky;e ,l vkj ,l dksYywiky;e] fFkIieiV~Vh
jksM] iksYykph & 642107
17 lh ,p 31 dksfoYyoyh MCY;w-lh-,l 60] QhV jksM] /kkjkiqje jksM]
Mh-,l-ds-uxj
¼ljdkjh vLirky ds ikl½]
fr#iqj & 641608
18 lh ,p
156
dqykdkiky;e vfjuj
v..kk
jktk LVªhV] dqykdkiky;e]
iyuhxksm/kuiqnwj iksLV]
iksYykph & rkyqd]
dks;EcVwj & 642002
19 lh ,p
128
vkse f'ko'fDr gSaMywe
MCY;w lh ,l
osYyhdqIieiky;e] vUuwj jksM]
dks;EcVqj & 641302
146
18 CH.156 Kullakapalayam Aringar
Anna Raja Street, Kullakapalayam Palanigoundanpudur Post, Pollachi Taluk,
Coimbatore – 642 002.
19 CH.128 Om Sivasakthi Handloom WCS
Vellikuppampalayam, Annur Road, Coimbatore – 641 302.
20 K.894 Ondipudur Handloom WCS Krishna Naidu Street, Ondipudur Post,
Coimbatore – 641 016. 21 CH.98 Peraringar Anna WCS 8/320, Pudhayal Street
Pandian Nagar, P.N. Road, Tirupur – 2.
22 CH.86 Perunthalaivar Kamarajar Industiral WCS
Pandian Nagar, Neruperachal,P.N. Road,
Tirupur – 641 602. 23 AA 75 Poolavadi WCS Poolavadi Post
Udumalpet – 642 206.
24 CH.121 Sakthi Sowdeswari Amman 9/8, Vadavalli Road, Edayarpalayam Post, Coimbatore – 641 025.
25 K.1136 Seeranaickenpalayam WCS 170, Nethaji Road, Seeranaickenpalayam
Coimbatore – 641 007. 26 K.1744 Semmandampalayam WCS Semmandampalayam Post,
Somanur Via, Palladam – 641 668.
27 CH.168 Sennampalayam Magalir 11/99, Annur Road, Sirumugai – 641 302.
28 CH.105 Sennampalayam SRS 11/99, Annur Road, Sirumugai – 641 302.
147
20 ds 894 vksUMhiqj gSaMywe
MCY;w lh ,l
Ñ".k uk;Mq LVªhV vksUMhiqj
iksLV] dks;EcVqj & 641016
21 lh ,p 98 isjkjhuxj v..kk
MCY;w lh ,l
8@320] iqn;y LVªhV] ikafM;y uxj]
ih-,u-jksM] fr#iqj & 2
22 lh ,p 86 is#ury;oj dkejktj
baMfLVª;y MCY;w- lh- ,l
ikafM;u uxj] us#isjkpy] ih-
,u-jksM] fr#iqj & 641602
23 , , 75 iwyvkoMh MCY;w- lh- ,l iwyvkoMh iksLV
mMqeyisV & 642206
24 Lkh- ,p-
121
'kfDr lkSmns'kojh vEeu 4@8 oMoYyh jksM]
,M;kjiky;e
iksLV] dks;EcVwj & 641025
25 ds 1136 lh'kuk;duiky;e
MCY;w- lh- ,l
170] usrkth jksM]
lhjkuk;duiky;e]
dks;EcVqj & 641007
26 ds- 1744 lsEeuneiky;e
MCY;w- lh- ,l
lsEeuneiky;e iksLV]
lksEeuwj }kjk]
iYykne & 641668
27 Lkh- ,p-
168
lsUuekiky; exfyj 11@99] vUuwj jksM]
fl#eqxb & 641302
148
29 CH.93 Seripalayam Sri Ramalinga
Sowdeswari Andipalayam Post, Seripalayam, Pollachi – 642 120.
30 CH.14 Sirumugai Pudur SRS Sowdambigai,
Sirumugai Pudur Mettupalayam Taluk, Sirumugai – 641 302.
31 CH.122 Sirumugai Pudur Sri Sowdeswari 11/237, Annur Road, Opposite V.N.K. Theatre,
Sirumugai Pudur – 641 302.
32 K.1938 Sivasakthi Handloom WCS 155, Theppakulam Street, No.4, Coimbatore – 641 001.
33 CH.33 Sree Lakshmi Vinayagar WCS 139, H1, Rukmani Gardens Ondipudur,
Coimbatore – 641 016. 34 CH.153 Sri Balaji 133/174, Soundamman Kovil
Street, Samichettipalayam, Jothipuram Post, Coimbatore – 641 047.
35 CH.169 Sri Sakthi Handloom WCS 12/85, Mahalakshmi Theatre Road, Opp.Karappan Silks,
Kamaraj Street, Kamaraj Nagar, Sirumugai,
Pudur – 641 302.
36 CH.97 Sri Sowdeswari – Veerapandi Veerapandi, Veerapandi, Post, Tirupur.
37 K.1502 Subbarayanpudur Devanga Pillaiyar Kovil Street, Subbarayanpudur Post, Somanur Via,Palladam Taluk.
149
28 lh- ,p-
105
lsUueiky;e ,p- vkj- ,l 11@99] vUuwj jksM]
fl#eqxb & 641302
29 lh- ,p-
93
lsjhiky;e Jh jkefyax
lkSmns'kojh
vkaMhiky;e iksLV]
lsjhiky;e]
iksYykph & 642120
30 lh- ,p-
14
fl#eqxb iqnwj ,l- vkj-
,l
lkSnEHkhxy fl#eqxb iqnwj]
eSV~Vqiky;e
rkyqd fl#eqxb & 641302
31 lh- ,p-
122
fl#eqxb iqnwj Jh
lkSmns'kojh
11@237] vUuwj jksM+] fo- ,u
ds- fFk;sVj ds foijhr]
fl#eqxn] iqnwj & 641302
32 ds- 1938 f'ko'fDr gSaMywe]
MCY;w- lh- ,l
155] rsIidqYye LVªhV] 4]
dks;EcVwj & 641001-
33 lh ,p 33 Jh y{eh fouk;xj
MCY;w- lh- ,l
139] ,p&1] :de.kh xkMZu
vksaMhiqj] dks;EcVqj & 641016
34 lh- ,p-
153
Jh ckykth 133@174] lkSaMEeu dksbZy
LVªhV] LokehpsV~Vhiky;e]
T;ksfriqje iksLV] dks;EcVqj &
641047
150
38 CH.78 Thanthai Periyar Cotton
Cum Silk 5/156, Sri Nagar, Pichampalayam Pudur Post,Tirupur – 641 603.
39 K.1529 The Sirumugai Pudur
Devanga WCS
4/26, Sirumugai Pudur
Mettupalayam Taluk, Sirumugai – 641 302.
40 CH.157 Thiruvalluvar – Kullakapalayam
2/57,Kullakapalayam, Palanigoundanpudur Post, Pollachi Taluk,
Coimbatore – 642 002. 41 K.901 Tirupur WCS Post Box No.20, 221
Kumaran Road, Tirupur – 638 601.
42 K.905 Vadambachery SRS Vadambachery, Sulthanpet Via,
Palladam Taluk – 641 669. 43 CH.34 Vadambachery, Sri.
Natarajar
Vadambachery,
Sulthanpet Via, Vadambachery Post, Palladam Taluk – 641 669.
44 CH.152 Vagai Vivekanandar WCS 8/31,Thiruvalluvar Street, Vagarayampalayam Post,
Karumathampatti Via, Palladam Taluk, Coimbatore – 642 659.
45 CH.99 Veera Sowdeswari Amman Bagathur, Sakthi Main Road,
Mettupalayam Taluk, Sirumugai – 641 302.
46 CH.80 Vellampalayam Industrial Vellampalayam, Tirupur – 641 302.
151
35 lh- ,p-
169
Jh 'kfDr gSaMywe
MCY;w- lh- ,l
12@85] egky{eh fFk;sVj
jksM+] djIiu flYd ds foijhr]
dkejkt LVªhV] dkejkt uxj]
fl#eqxb] iqnwj & 641302
36 lh- ,p-
97
Jh lkSmns'ojh&ohjikaM+h ohjikaM+h] ohjikaMh] iksLV]
fr:iqj
37 ds- 1502 lqCcjk;uiqnwj nsoaxk fiYy;kj dksfoy LVªhV] lqCcjk;uiqnwj
iksLV] lkseuwj }kjk] iYykne
rkyqd
38 Lh- ,p-
78
ran; isfj;kj dkV~Vu
de flYd
5@156] Jh uxj]
fiNeiky;e iqnwj
iksLV] fr#iqj & 641603
39 ds- 1529 nh fl:eqxb iqnwj nsoaxk
MCY;w- lh- ,l
4@26] fl:eqxb iqnwj]
eSV~Vqiky;e rkyqd
fl#eqxb & 641302
40 lh-,p-157 fr#oYywj & dqykdiky;e 2@157] dqykdkiky;e
iyuhxkSnuiqnwj
iksLV] iksYykph rkyqd]
dks;EcVwj & 642002
41 ds- 901 fr#iwj MCY;w- lh- ,l iksLV ckWdl u-20] 221]
dqeju jksM] fr#iwj & 638601
152
47 K.1061 Vellalore Devanga Handloom WCS 9, Anna Street,
Vellalore Post, Pathanur Via, Coimbatore – 641 111.
48 CH.20 Vellalore Sri Sowdambika V.O.C Road,
Vellalore Post, Pothanur Coimbatore – 641 111.
49 CH.81 Vellikuppampalayam, Sri. Sidhi Vinayagar
11/37,New Road, Vellikuppampalayam, Sirumugai – 641 302.
50 CH.113 Annai Theresa Mahalir WCS Amman Kovil Street Moolathurai Illuppalayam
(P.O) Sirumugai Via Mettupalayam Taluk,
51 CH.74 SavakkattupalayamThiruvalluvar WCS
Main Road, Savakkattupalayam P.O
Avinashi Taluk. 52 CH.114 Savakkattupalayam Aringar Anna
WCS
Main Road,
Savakkattupalayam P.O Avinashi Taluk.
53 CH.117 Nethaji WCS Main Road, Savakkattupalayam P.O Avinashi Taluk.
54 CH.120 Savakkattupalayam Thanthai Periyar
WCS
Main Road,
Savakkattupalayam P.O Avinashi Taluk.
153
42 ds- 905 oMEHkkpsjh ,l- vkj- ,l oMEHkkpsjh] lqYrkuisr }kjk]
iYykMe rkyqd & 641669
43 lh- ,p-
34
oMEHkkpsjh] Jh uVjktj oMEHkkpsjh] lqYrkuisr }kjk]
oMEHkkpsjh iksLV] iYykMe
rkyqd & 641669
44 lh- ,p-
152
obxb foosdkuanj
MCyw- lh- ,l
8@31] fr:oYywj LVªhV] oxjk;eiky;e iksLV
d#ekFkeiV~Vh }kjk] iYykMe
rkyqd] dks;EcVqj & 642659
45 lh- ,p-
99
ohjk lkSns'ojh vEeu Hkxrwj ] 'kkfDr esbu jksM]
eSV~Vqiky;e rkyqd]
fl#eqxb & 641302
46 lh- ,p-
80
osYyeiky;e banLVªh;y osYyeiky;e fr#iqj &
641302
47 ds- 1061 osYykywj nsoaxk gSaMywe
MCY;w- lh- ,l
1] v..kk LVªhV] osYykywj
iksLV] iFkuwj }kjk]
dks;EcVqj & 641 111
154
KORA COTTON SAREES PRODUCING SOCIETIES IN ERODE CIRCLE 1 CH.17, Savakkattupalayam Dr.
M.G.R. WCS Ltd,
Savakkattupalayam Post, Numbiyur (Via), Gobi (T.K) PIN. 638 460
8 CH.24, Doodampalayam Anna WCS Ltd, Doodampalayam (P.O) Bhavani Sagar,
(Via), Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 451
2 EH.169 Nethahi WCS Ltd,
Sadumugai (P.O) D.G. Pudur (Via), Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 503
9 EH. 85, Thanthai Pereyar Industrial,
Doddampalayam (P.O) Bhavani Sagar, (Via), Sathyamangalam (T.K) Pin 638 451
3 EH.183 Kaliyur WCS Ltd, Kaliyur, D.G. Pudur Gobi (T.K)
PIN. 638 503
10 EH.73 Pariyar Amman WCS Ltd, Sengottai Nagar, D.G. Pudur Gobi (T.K)
PIN. 638 503
4 EH.156 Nanjappa Chettipudur WCS Ltd, Nanjappa Chettipudur D.G. Pudur (P.O), Sathy (T.K)
Pin 638 503
11 EH.139, Ponmanam WCS Ltd, (P.O) D.G. Pudur Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 503
5 EH.168 Sadumugal Sowdeswari Amman Mahalir WCS, Ltd, Sadamugai (P.O) D.G. Pudur (Via), Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 503
12 CH. 27, Anna WCS Ltd, D.G. Pudur (P.O) Gobi (T.K) Pin 638 503
6 EH.171, Sri. Bannariamman
WCS Ltd, Makkinamkombai, Arasur (P.O) Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 454
13 EH.164, Mahathma WCS Ltd,
Kembanaickenpalayam (P.O) D.G. (Via) Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 503
7 K.1130, Savakkattupalayam WCS Ltd, Savakkattupalayam
Post, Numbiyur (Via), Gobi (T.K) PIN. 638 460
14 EH.176, Vallalar Magalir WCS Ltd, Doodampalayam (P.O) Bhavani Sagar,
(Via), Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 454
155
48 lh- ,p-
20
osYykywj Jh lkSnEchdk oh- vks- lh- jksM] osYykywj
iksLV] iksFkkuwj]
dks;EcVqj & 641 111
49 lh-,p-81 osYyhdqIieiky;e]
Jh fl)hfouk;xj
11@37] U;w jksM]
oYyhdqIieiky;e
fl#eqxb & 641302
50 lh- ,p-
113
vUubZ Fksjslk exfyj
MCY;w- lh- ,l
vEeu dksfoy LVªhV] eqyrqjb
bYywiky;e ¼iksLV½] fl:eqxb
}kjk eSV~Vqiky;e & rkyqd
51 lh- ,p-
74
lkoDdkFkqiky;e fr:Yyqoj
MCY;w- lh- ,l
esbu jksM]lkoDdk;qiky;e ih-
vks- vfouk'kh rkyqd
52 lh- ,p-
114
lkoDdkFkqiky;e vfjuj
v..kk
MCY;w- lh- ,l
esbu jksM]lkoDdkFkqiky;e ih-
vks-] vfouk'kh rkyqd
53 lh- ,p-
117
usrkth MCY;w- lh- ,l esbu jksM] lkoDdkFkqiky;e
ih- vks- vfouk'kh rkyqd
156
15 EH.125 Kamarajar,
WCS Ltd, Doodampalayam (P.O)
Bhavani Sagar, (Via), Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 451
24 EH. 215 Malleswari WCS Ltd, 201, Ghandhi Street, Devangapuram (P.O) Kangeyam (TK) Erode – 638 701
16 CH. 68,
Sathyamangalam Devanga WCS Ltd, Govindarajapuram, Sathyamangalam (T,K)
Pin 638 402
25 K.1170 Kangayam Sowdambika WCS
Ltd, Kangeyam (P.O), Kangeyam (TK) Pin 638 701
17 EH.157,Sri Sowdeswari WCS Ltd, Doodampalayam (P.O)
Bhavani Sagar, (Via), Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 451
26 EH. 48 Kangayam WCS Ltd, Kangeyam (P.O), Pin 638 701
18 EH.154, Bhagavathi Amman WCS Ltd,
Dasappagoundenpudur (P.O) Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 503
27 EH. 208 Manimegalai WCS Ltd, Kangeyam (P.O), Kangeyam (TK) Erode
(Dt) Pin 638 701
19 AA. 135 Uthandiyur WCS Ltd, Uthandiyur
(P.O) Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 402
28 EH. 185, Angalamman 54 – A, Kodiveri Road, D.G, Pudur (P.O) Pin 638 508
Gobi (TK).
157
54 lh- ,p- 120 lkoDdk
Fkqiky;
e ran;
isfj;kj
MCY;w-
lh- ,l
esbu jksM lkoDdkFkqiky;e ih vks-
vfouk'kh rkyqd
bZjksM ifjf/k esa dksjk dikl lkM+h mRikfnr lekt
1 lh-,p-17] lkoDdkFkqiky;e MkW]
,e-th-vkj- MCY;w- lh- ,l-
fyfeVsM]
lkoDdkFkqiky;e iksLV] uqEHkh;wj
¼}kjk½
xksch ¼rkyqd½ fiu & 638460
9 lh-,p-24] nw/keiky;e v..kk
MCY;w- lh- ,l- fyfeVsM]
nw/keiky;e
¼ih-vks½] Hkokuh lkxj ¼}kjk½
lkFkh ¼rkyqd½ fiu 638 451
2 bZ-,p-169] usrkgh MCY;w- lh- ,l
fyfeVsM] lkMqeqxb ¼ih-vks½ Mh-th-
iqnwj
¼}kjk½ lkFkh] rkyqd fiu 638503
10 bZ- ,p ran; isfj;kj banLVªh;y]
nw/keiky;e ¼ih-vks½] Hkokuh lkxj
¼}kjk½ lR;eaxye ¼rkyqd½
fiu 638 451
3 bZ- ,p- 183] dfy;wj MCY;w-
lh- ,l- fyfeVsM]
dfy;wj] Mh-th iqnwj]
xksch ¼rkyqd½ fiu 638503
11 bZ- ,p- 73 ikfj;j vEeu
MCY;w-lh-,l- fyfeVsM] lsaxksV;
uxj]
Mh-th- iqnwj xksch ¼rkyqd½
fiu 638 503
158
20 EH.184, Erankattur Sri Ramakrishnan
WCS Ltd, Doodampalayam (P.O) Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 451
29 EH. 192, Muthamail WCS Ltd, A.Ponnammal Street, D.G, Pudur (P.O) Gobi (TK) Pin 638 503
21 EH. 211 D.G. Pudur Mahalir Ka WCS
Ltd, Kaliyur, D.G. Pudur Gobi (T.K)
30 EH. 196 Sathy Sowdeswari WCS
Ltd, Bellampatti (P.O) Gundadam (via) Dharapuram (TK)
Pin 638 702 22 EH. 209 Sri Kamatchiamman WCS
Kangeyam, Pin. 638 701
31 EH. 199 Sri Balaji WCS Ltd,
Pasuvapalayam, (Post) Sathyamangalam (TK).
23 EH. 214, Therpatti Devanga WCS Ltd, Therpatti (P.O) Dharapuram (TK) Erode, Dt, Pin 638 673
32 EH.160, Sri Selvavinayaga WCS Ltd, 1/35, Kolathupalayam, Perundurai Taluk, M.Pidariyur
post, Chennimalai. Pin 638 058.
159
4 bZ ,p 156 uatIik Nsrhiqnwj
MCY;w lh- ,l- fyfeVsM]
uatIik Nsrhiqnwj] Mh-th-iqnwj ¼ih-vks½]
lkFkh ¼rkyqd½ fiu 638 503
12 bZ- ,p- 139 iksueue
MCY;w- lh- ,l fyfeVsM] ¼ih-
vks½]
Mh-th- iqnwj lkFkh ¼rkyqd½
fiu 638 503
5 bZ ,p 168 lk/kqeqxy lkSans'ojh
vEeu egfyj
MCY;w- lh- ,l- fyfeVsM]
lknkeqxb ¼ih-vks½] Mh-th iqnwj ¼}kjk½
lkFkh ¼rkyqd½ fiu 638 503
13 bZ- ,p- 27 v..kk MCY;w lh
,l fyfeVsM]
Mh-th iqnwj ¼ih-vks½ xksch
¼rkyqd½
fiu 638 503
6 bZ- ,p- 171 Jh cUukjhvEeu
MCY;w- lh- ,l- fyfeVsM]
efDduedksEcb] vjlwj ¼ih-vks½]
lkFkh ¼rkyqd½ fiu 638 454
14 bZ- ,p- 164] egkRek MCY;w-
lh-
,l- fyfeVsM]
dseHkuk;duiky;e
¼ih-vks½ Mh-th ¼}kjk½ lkFkh
¼rkyqd½
fiu 638 503
7 ds1130 lkoDdkFkqiky;e]
MCY;w- lh- ,l- fyfeVsM]
lkoddkFkqiky;e iksLV]
uqEHkh;wj ¼}kjk½ xksch ¼rkyqd½
fiu 638 460
15 bZ- ,p- 176] oYyykj Hkxfrj
MCY;w- lh- ,l fyfeVsM]
nq/keiky;e ¼ih-vks½] Hkokuh
lkxj
¼}kjk½ lkFkh ¼rkyqd½
fiu 638 454
160
Any other societies or associations that are already established or that will be established in future within the identified territorial limits (map) submitted to G.I Registry will also
become eligible to use the G.I mark upon the said goods by complying the requirements under law. (D) Type of goods : Manufactured goods Textiles (E) Specification Kovai Kora Cotton means cotton yarn saree, in which the kora silk for warp and 2/100
gas mercerized extra - long staple for weft and Jari from Gujarat for making pallu and
putta, with intricate craftsmanship are used.
Warp : 20/22 Deenier cora silk
Weft : 2/100S gas mercerized cotton yarn Border : Half fine Zari
Pallu : 2/100S Mercerized yarn + half fine Jari
Putta : Half fine Zari
Extra warp : Half fine Zari
Extra weft : Half fine Zari
Warp will be about 4800 ends which will be adequate for producing 8 Sarees with a total length of 52 meters and each saree of 6.30 metres (same length of 5.52 metres and Blouse piece of 0.80 metres). The remainder Warp of 1.60 metres is used for piecing.
SI.NO PARTICULARS SPECIFICATIONS
1 Length 247 Inch 6.30 metres
2 Width 47 Inch 119cms
3 Reed Count 96
4 Ends/Inch 96
5 Picks / Inch 75 to 80
161
8 bZ- ,p- 125 dkejktj
MCY;w- lh- ,l fyfeVsM]
nw/keiky;e ¼ih-vks½]
Hkokuh lkxj ¼}kjk½
lkFkh ¼rkyqd½ fiu 638 451
16 bZ- ,p- 209] Jh dkek{khvEeu
MCY;w lh ,l] dkaxs;e]
fiu 638 701
17 lh-,p-68] lR;aeaxye nsouxk
MCY;w-lh-,l- fyfeVsM]
xksfoUnjktkiqje] LR;eaxye
¼rkyqd½
fiu & 638402
25 bZ- ,p- 214 FksjiV~Vh nsouxk
MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM]
FksjiV~Vh ¼ih-vks½ /kkjkiqje] ¼rkyqd½
bZjksM & ftyk] fiu & 638673
18 bZ-,p-157] Jh lkSns'ojh
MCY;w-lh-,l- fyfeVsM]
nw/keiky;e ¼ih-vks½ Hkokuh
lkxj
¼}kjk½ lkFkh ¼rkyqd½
fiu & 638451
26 bZ- ,p- 215 ekys'ojh
MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM]
201] xk¡/kh LVªhV ¼ih-vks½] nsoaxkiqje ¼ih- vks½
dkax;e] ¼rkyqd½
bZjksM & 638701
19 bZ-,p-154] Hkxorh vEeu
MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM]
MklIikxkÅuMuiqnwj ¼ih-vks½
lkFkh ¼rkyqd½
fiu & 638503
27 ds- 1170 dkax;e lkSneHkhdk
MCY;w-lh-,l- fyfeVsM]
dkax;e ¼ih-vks½] dkax;e] ¼rkyqd½
fiu & 638701
20 ,-,-135] mFkufM;wj
MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM]
mFkufM;wj ¼ih-vks½ lkFkh
¼rkyqd½
fiu & 638402
28 bZ-,p-48 dkax;e
MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM]
dkax;e ¼ih-vks½] fiu & 638701
162
The Central Silk Board has indicated the differences between pure silk and Art silk as
follows:
Test Silk Art silk
Burning • Burns but stops burning or
burns slowly
• The fumes emit burnt hair
smell
• Forms black bead with
rough surface
• The bead can be crushed
resulting in to crystalline
powder
• Burns and burns
continuously
• The fumes emit burnt
paper smell
• Forms white ash and
drops immediately.
• The ash is amorphous in
nature
Strength • For a given thickness the
silk thread is stronger
comparatively
• For a given thickness
the art silk thread is
weaker comparatively
Crease • The pure silk quickly
recovers from the crease
formed by crushing effect.
• Susceptible to formation
of crease, and
recovering is rather
slow.
163
21 bZ-,p-184] ,judFkqj Jh
jkeÑ".ku
MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM]
nw/keiky;e ¼ih-vks½ lkFkh
¼rkyqd½
fiu & 638451
29 bZ- ,p- 208 ef.kesxyb
MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM]
dkax;e ¼ih-vks½] bZjksM & ftyk]
fiu & 638701
22 bZ-,p-211] Mh-th-iqnwj exfyj
dk
MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM]
dfy;wj] Mh-th iqnwj
xksch ¼rkyqd½
30 bZ- ,p- 185] vaxyvEeu
54-,] dskMhosjh jksM
Mh- th- iqnwj (ih- vks½
Ihu&638508] ¼rkyqd½
23 bZ-,p-192] eqFkfey
MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM]
, iksuEeky LVªhV ¼ih-vks½ xksch ¼rkyqd½ fiu & 638503
31 bZ-,p- 199 Jh ckykth
MCY;w-lh-,l- fyfeVsM]
i'kqoiky;e ¼iksLV½
lR;eaxye ¼rkyqd½
24 bZ-,p-196] lkFkh lkSns'ojh
MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM]
csykeiV~Vh ¼ih-vks½ ] x.kMMe
¼}kjk½
xksch ¼rkyqd½ fiu & 638702
32 bZ-,p 199 Jhlsyofouk;x
MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM] 1@35]
dksyFkqiky;e] is#unqjb rkyqd],e-
fiMfj;wj iksLV
psUuheybZ] fiu & 638058
vU; dksbZ lekt ;k la?k tks igys ls gh LFkkfir gS ;k ftldh LFkkiuk
Hkfo"; esa gksus okyh gS tks th-vkbZ jftLVªh ds izknsf'kd lhek ¼ekufp=½ ds
igpkuk {ks= esa vkrk gS Hkh th- vkbZ fpg~u dk mi;ksx eky ij dj ldrk gS
fof/k ds rgr vko';drk dk ikyu djdsA
164
Physical Properties of Silk
• Shape
Silk has a triangular shaped cross section whose corners are rounded.
• Lustre
Due to the triangular shape (allowing light to hit it at many different angles), silk
is a bright fiber meaning it has a natural shine to it.
• Covering Power
Silk fibers have poor covering power. This is caused by their thin filament form.
• Hand
When held silk has a smooth, soft texture that, unlike many synthetic fibers, is not
slippery
• Denier
4.5 g/d (dry) ; 2.8-4.0 g/d (wet)
Mechanical Properties of Silk
• Strength
Silk is the strongest of all the natural fibers; however it does lose up to 20% of its
strength when wet.
• Elongation/Elasticity
Silk has moderate to poor elasticity. If elongated even a small amount the fibers
will remain stretched.
• Resiliency
Silk has moderate wrinkle resistance
165
¼?k½ eky ds izdkj % mRikfnr lkexzh VsDLVkby
¼M-½ fofunsZ'k
dksob dksjk dikl dk vFkZ gS dikl ;kuZ lkM+h ftlesa rkuk ds fy, dksjk
js'ke vkSj ckuk ds fy, 2@100 xSl ejljkbZt+n vfrfjDr yEck jksok vkSj iYyw
vkSj iqV~Vk cukus ds fy, xqtjkr ls tjh] tfVy dkjhxjh gquj dk mi;ksx gksrk
gSA
rkuk % 20@22 nhfu;j dksjk js'ke
ckuk % 2@100,l xSl ejljkbZt+n dikl ;kuZ
lhek % v/kZ lkQ tjh
iYyw % 2@100 ejlhjkbZt+n ;kuZ $ v/kZ lkQ
tjh
iqV~Vk % v/kZ lkQ tjh
vfrfjDr rkuk % v/kZ lkQ tjh
vfrfjDr ckuk % v/kZ lkQ tjh
okiZ dk yxHkx 4800 dksus gksaxs tks dqy yackbZ 52 ehVj ds lkFk 8 lkM+h
mRiknu djus ds fy, i;kZIr gS vkSj izR;sd lkM+h 6-30 ehVj dk gksaxsA (mfpr
yackbZ 5-52 ehVj vkSj Cykml ihl 0-80 ehVj) A ckdh okiZ 1-60 ehVj dks ihflax
ds fy, mi;skx fd;k tkrk gSA
166
Chemical Properties of Silk
• Absorbency
Silk has a good moisture regain of 11%.
• Electrical Conductivity
Silk is a poor conductor of electricity making it comfortable to wear in cool
weather. This also means however, that silk is susceptible to static cling.
• Resistance to Ultraviolet Light/ Biological Organisms
Silk can become weakened if exposed to too much sunlight. Silk may also be
attacked by insects, especially if left dirty.
• Chemical Reactivity/Resistance
Silk is resistant to mineral acids. It is yellowed by perspiration and will dissolve in sulfuric acid.
• Dimensional Stability
Silk does not generally shrink due to the fact that its molecular structure is not
easily distorted.
(F) Name of the Geographical Indication:
KOVAI KORA COTTON SAREES (G) Description of goods: Kovai Kora Cotton means cotton yarn saree, in which the kora silk for warp and
2/100 gas mercerized extra - long staple for weft and Jari for making pallu and putta,
with intricate craftsmanship are used.Kovai Kora Cotton saree is a blend of cotton and
silk yarns beautifully woven in the fine craftsmanship, unsurpassed in the annals of
textile history
167
Øe la fooj.k fofufnZ’Vhdj.k
1 yackbZ 247 bap 6-30 ehVj
2- pkSMkbZ 47 bap 119 ls eh
3- jhM dkmaV 96
4- dksus@bap 96
5- fid@ bap 75 ls 80
“kqn~/k js”ke rFkk vkVZ js”ke ds chp fuEu fHkUurkvksa dk dsUnzh; js”ke cksMZ u s
ladsr fn;k gS %
ijh{k.k js”ke vkVZ js”ke
Tyuk & tyrk gS ij /khjs /khj s
tyrk gS ;k tyuk can
gks tkrk gSA
& /kqvkaW ls tys cky dh
xa/k vkrh gS
& dBksj ry ds lkFk
dkyk chM fuekZ.k djrk gS
& bl chM dks lanfyr
djus ij fØLVkykbu
ikmMj esa ifj.kr gks tkrk gSA
& tyrk gS vkSj yxkrkj
tyrk jgrk gSA
& /kqvkaW tys x;s dkxt
dk xa/k nsrk gS
& lQsn jk[k curk gS
vkSj rqjar fxj tkrk gSA
& izdfr esa ;g jk[k
vfØLVkykbu gksrh gS
“kfDr & fn;s x;s ?kukiu ds
fy, js”ke /kkxk rqyu esa cgqr gh “kfDr”kkyh gksrh
gSA
& fn;s x;s ?kukiu ds
fy, vkVZ js”ke /kkxk rqyu esa cgqr gh det+ksj
gSA
Øhl & “kqn~/k js”ke lanfyr
izHkko ls fuekZf.kr dzhl ls
rqjar fQj izkIr gks tkrk gS
xzhl fuekZ.k ls xzg.k”khy
gS vkSj iqu%izkfIr cgqr gh
/kheh gS
168
(H) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no 199 & 200. The Kovai Kora Cotton Sarees production is extended to the area as shown in the Map in page no 199 & 200 .The main centers of the location where the Kovai Kora Cotton Sarees is manufactured includes: Coimbatore District
1. Coimbatore
2. Mettupalayam
3. Sirumugai
4. Periya Nayaka Palayam
5. Annur
6. Kovil Palayam
7. Tiruppur
8. Malayanti Patinam
9. Avinashi
10. Vatthampa Cherri
11. Udumalaipettai
Erode District
1. Sathyamangalam
2. Bhavani
3. Gobi Chettipalayam
4. Nambiyur
5. Doddampalayam
6. Kangeyam
7. Gundadam
8. Kolathupalayam
9. Dharapuram
169
js”keh dk HkkSfrd y{k.k
&vkdkj
js”ke dk f=dks.kh; vkdkj dzkl lsD”ku gkrk gS ftudk dksus jkmaMM gksr s
gSA
& ped
f=dks.kh; vkdkj ds dkj.k (dbZ vaxyksa esa izdk”k dks vanj vkus nsus ls) js”ke cgqr gh pedhys Qkbcj gS ftldk vFkZ gS mlesa izkdfrd ped miyC/k gSA
& dofjax “kfDr
js”ke Qkbcj esa nqcZy dofjax “kfDr miyC/k gSA ;g irys fQyesaV
fuekZ>k ds dkj.k gSA
& gkFk gkFk esa ysus ij] js”ke dk ljy] dksey VSDLpj gksrk gS] tks vU; flaFks fVd
Qkbcj ds tSls] fpduk ugha gksrkA
& Msfu;j
4-5 th@Mh (lw[ks) 5 2-8&4-0 th@Mh (xhys) js”ke dh esdfudh xq.k/keZ
&”kfDr
izkdfrd Qkbcjksa esa ls js”ke gh cgqr “kfDr”kkyh gSA ij Hkh] xhys gksu s
ij og vius “kfDRk esa ls 20 izfr”kr rd [kks nsrk gSA
& yackbZ@ yphysiu js”ke ls lk/kkj.k ls nqcZy yphysiu gksrk gSA FkksMs foLrkj djus ij Hkh
Qkbcj foLrkfjr jgsaxsA
& iyVko js”kek esa lk/kkj.k fozady izfrjks/k miyC/k gSA
170
(I) Proof of origin: (Historical records) The people of Devangar Community in the GI area are said to hail from Ahmed
Nagar in Gujarat and migrated to South India as a result of the annihilation of Vijaya
Nagar empire in the Talaikotta War in 1565, when the Kayatri Peetam of Devangars in
Hemakooda Parvatham was destroyed. They settled at Sirumugai, Mettupalayam and
Sathyamangalam of the then Coimbatore district. They are the pioneers of weaving Kovai
Kora Cotton.
Historians claimed that the name Deveangar means the weavers of the dresses
used for clothing the celestial bodies. (Deva - God, Anga – body ).
The practice of making available the attire for local satraps and chieftains had
been in vogue at Coimbatore District. During the reign of Vijaya Nagar empire the silk -
cocoons had been produced mainly from the Kollegal area which was part of the then
Coimbatore district, in the then Madras Presidency. It was ordered to a handloom weaver
residing at T.G.Pudur, a part of Coimbatore District and situated near Karnataka to
produce clothes for the member of the royal family, by using the silk yarn drawn from
silk cocoons as warp and the super fine cotton yarn, drawn from the cotton produced in a
large measure at Coimbatore District for the weft. The variety which was produced as
such is called Kovai Kora Cotton.
The Hindu – The Silk Industry in Tamil Nadu: A Feature, Dated: 6th Nov – 1999
deals with Kovai Kora Cotton in the following terms:
By count and textile, look and softness Coimbatore sarees have carved a niche
among women. Fifteen years ago, weavers in Coimbatore were using only cotton to
manufacture sarees. When the competition became stiff because of the similar sarees
171
js”ke dh jlk;fudh xq.k/keZ
& vo”kks’kdrk js”ke esa vPNk ueh iqu%izkfIr 11 izfr”kr dk gksrk gSA
& fctyh pkydrk
js”ke fctyh dk detksj pkyd gS tks mls “khry ekSle esa iguus lqfo/kktud cuk nsrk gSA bl ;g Hkh vFkZ gS fd js”ke LVsfVd fDyax ls
xzg.k”khy gSA
& vYVªkokbyV izdk”k@ c;kykWftdy vkxZsfule ls izfrjks/k
vxj vf/kd lw;Z izdk”k esa js”ke dks is”k fd;k tk,xk rks og nqcZYk gks tk,xkA vxj lw[ks j[kk tk, rks dh<s ls vk?kkr Hkh gks ldrk gSA
& jlk;fud fj,fDVoVh@ izfrjks/k
js”ke feujy vfeyksa ls izfrjks/kd gSA ;g ilhus ls ihys gks tkrk gS vkSj
lYQfjd vfey esa fi?ky tk,xkA
& fofe; fLFkjrk
js”ke lk/kkj.kr% fldqMrk ugha gS] ;g bl dkj.k ls fd ekfydqyj LVªDpj
dks vklkuh ls rksM ugha ldrs A
,Q- HkkSxksfyd ladsr dk uke
dksob dksjk dikl lkMh
th- lkexzh dk fooj.k
dksob dksjk dikl dk vFkZ gS dikl ;kuZ lkM+h ftlesa rkuk ds fy, dksjk
js'ke vkSj ckuk ds fy, 2@100 xSl ejljkbZt+n vfrfjDr yEck jksok vkSj iYyw
vkSj iqV~Vk cukus ds fy, xqtjkr ls tjh] tfVy dkjhxjh gquj dk mi;ksx gksrk
gSA dksob dksjk dikl lkMh dikl vkSj js”ke ;kuZ dks feykdj [kwclwjrh ls]
tfVy dkjhxjh esa Hkquk;s x;s lkMh gS ftls VsDLVkby bfrgkl esa ikj ugha fd;k
x;k gSA
172
produced by modern mills, a new method was devised by the handloom sector in
weaving. Thus was born the Kora Silk.
Initially Kora silk was used for pavu and oodu to weave yarn sarees. Later
considering the prevailing weather conditions, Kora thread was used only for pavu and
cotton thread was used for oodu in manufacturing the hybrid Kora silk sarees. The
present Kora silk sarees from Coimbatore have received tremendous appreciation from
people all over the country.
Madras District Gazetteers - Coimbatore by Dr.B.S.Baliga (1966) deals with
Kovai Cora Cotton in the following terms:
“In the field of industries, handloom industry, metal work and jewellery occupied
a prominent place under the Cholas. The best of handloom fabrics, silk as well as cotton,
went always to the royal palaces, temples, and foreign countries, while the rest were sold
all over the country by hawkers. We are told that `excellent napkins’ and `linen voils’
were exported to Siraf and Kish in the Persian Gulf and cotton fabrics of all sorts and
coloured silk threads were exported to Indo-China”.
And in another context, the said Gazetteers record the significance of Kovai Kora cotton
as follows: -
“The most common variety of clothes produced in the district are the coarse
coloured saris. They are woven from yarns of 20s to 30s and measure 14 to 18 cubits long
and 42 to 45 inches wide with 18 to 20 punjams. The chief centres of producing these
coloured saris are Negamam, Mantripalayam, Periyapalayam, Ammapalayam,
Sennimalai and Sivagiri. Most of the yarn consumed, is obtained from local mills,
173
,p- mRiknu ds HkkSxksfyd foLrkj vkSj i’B la- 199] 200 esa nf”kZr ekufp=
dksob dksjk dikl mRiknu ls lacaf/kr HkkSxksfyd {ks= rFkk uD”kk dks
i`’B la- 199]200 esa fn[kk;s vuqlkj foLrkj fd;k x;k gS
{ks=ksa dk eq[; dsUnz tgkaW dksob dksjk dikl dk mRiknu fd;k tk jgk
gS mlesa fuEu lfEefyr Gsa
1- dks;EcRrwj ftyk
1- dks;EcRrwj
2- esV~Vqiky;e
3- fl#eqxS
4- isfj; uk;d iky;d
5- vUuwj
6- dksfoy iky;e
7- fr#Iiwj
8- ey;kUrh ifV~Vue
9- vfouk”kh
10- oV~VEik psjh
11- mMqeySisV~VS
bZjksM ftyk
1- lR;eaxye
2- Hkokuh
3- xksoh psfV~Viky;e
4- uafc;wj
174
while coloured yarn, especially red, is imported from Madurai ready dyed. Dyeing with
other colours is done at Tiruppur, Kangayam, Sennimalai, Bhavani and Mantripalayam,
where the agents of the Havero Trading Company supply the colours and instruct the
dyers in the process of dyeing. Besides these coarse saris, grey saris of finer counts of
Pullampetta pattern are also produced in Sathyamangalam for export to the Northern
Circars”.
The above statement indicates that the weaving communities in the GI area were
producing course coloured sarees of different kinds using cotton yarns of 20 and 30
counts. The weavers in the area were specialising in the production of sarees by adopting
Traditional Methods. After the advent of the extra long staple, super fine cotton varieties
of 100 and 120 counts like SUVIN cotton varieties and hybrids, and with the introduction
of superior Crass – Bred (CB) (Multivoltine * Bivoltine and Bivoltine silkworm cocoons
with a denier of 18/20 and 20/22 high quality silk fibre, the traditional weavers of the GI
area were able to switch over to fine quality of Kovai Kora Cotton Sarees blending both
these types of fibres. They almost stopped the production of course cotton sarees in the
region. However, in the Erode district excepting for small areas around Sathiyamangalam
and Sadhumugai, etc., where the Kovai Kora Cotton Sarees are still produced, the bulk of
the remaining areas continue to produce the course type of various cotton textiles
including sarees.
(J) Method of Production:
1) DEGUMMING
Each warp or weft yarn weighs about one pound (approximately 0.5 kg). This weight
is known as "THADA”. Thadas are immersed in a copper vessel containing cold water
for three to five minutes. They are then squeezed and inserted into two bamboo rods of
size 3' x 11½'. In the meantime, about 4 gallons of water are raised to boiling point in a
copper pot of diameter 2’ and height 31/2’. One bar of USNA SOAP weighing about 600
grams is dissolved in the boiling water. This soap is made locally with lime nd caustic
soda, coconut oil and resin. The Thadas are immersed in this bath and constantlly turned
175
5- nksMkeiky;e
6- dkaxs;e
7- xqaMkMe
8- dksyRrqiky;e
9- /kkjkiqje
¼vkbZ½ izknqHkkZo dk izek.k ¼,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k½ %
;g dgk tkrk gS fd th vkbZ {ks= esa nsouxj leqnk; ds yksx xqtjkr ds
vgen uxj ls vk;s Fks vkSj 1565 esa ry;dksV~Vk ;q) esa fot; uxj lkezkT; ds
gkj ds ckn os nf{k.k Hkkjr pys x;s] tc nsouxj dk x;=h ihB] gsekdwMk ijoV~Ve
esa u"V gks x;kA os ml le; ds dks;EcVqj ftysa ds fl#eqxb] esV~Vqiky;e vkSj
lR;eaxye esa cl x;sA ;s gh dksob dksjk dikl ds iFk & izn'kZd gSA
bfrgkldkj ds vuqlkj nsouxj dk vFkZ gS fnO; tho dks oL= igukus okys
cqudjA ¼nso & Hkxoku] vax & 'kjhj½
dks;EcVqj ftyk esa LFkkuh; eqf[k;k vkSj usrk dks oL= miyC/k djkus dh
izpyu FkkA fot;uxj ds 'kklu esa eq[;r% [kksyaxy {ks= ls js'ke dks"k dk mRiknu
fd;k tkrk Fkk tks igys enzkl izsflMsUlh ds varxZr dks;EcVqj ftyk dk vaax FkkA
Mh-th-iqnwj] tks dks;EcVqj ftyk dk vax Fkk vkSj dukZVd ds ikl fLFkr Fkk] ds
gFkdj?kk cqudj dks vkns'k fn;k x;k fd os jktdh; ifjokj ds fy, oL= cuk;s]
rkuk ds js'ke dks"k ls js'ke ;kuh vkSj mÙke lkQ dikl ;kuZ dk mi;ksx djds uks
ml le; dks;EcVqj ftyk esa ckuk dh vf/kd ek=k esa mRiknu fd;k tkrk FkkA bl
fdLe ds mRiknu dks dksob dksjk dikl dgk tkrk gSA
n&fgUnw&nh flYd baMLVªh bu rfeyukMq% ,d ys[k tks 6 uoEcj 1999 dks
izdkf'kr gqvk Fkk] ds vuqlkj dksob dksjk dikl dk fuEufyf[kr 'kCnksa es mYys[k
fd;k x;k-
176
at intervals of 2 to 3 minutes. While turning the Thadas care is taken to ensure that they do
not come into contact with the sides of the vessel unless there is water. After 15 minutes,
it is found that the silk has a wavy appearance, which indicates that the process of
degumming is complete. The yarn is then squeezed and rinsed thrice in three separate
vessels. Each vessel containing four to five gallons of water. The water used at city
possess good quality of impacting lustre to raw silk. The degumming water will be
disposed of in the open area with a size of 1 mtr square bore with sand and jally, (granite
pebbles).
2) Bleaching For bleaching Silk Yarn the following chemicals are used:
1. Soda ash – 0.080 gm
2. Sodium Hydro sulphate – 0.030gm
3. WG Tinopal – 0.015gm
4. Ground water – 20 litre
All the above chemicals are dissolved in water. The water is boiled for 15 minutes. A
bamboo pole is and rotated continuously. This process takes nearly 6 hours.
After 6 hours silk yarn will be removed and about 2 times rinsed in 20 bit of per kg of
silk. After that press 50 ml Acetic Acid is added in water and continued rotating the silk.
The silk yarn thus be come bright white. After that the silk yarn will be again rinsed in
water three times. The rinsed water is disposed of in the open places in bits already used
for the purpose. About 2 to 3kg of silk yarn will be used at a time per looms and this
process is done one time in a month. There is pollution problem in this process.
These works are done traditionally by the weavers. There is no disease or skin afflictions
to the people who undertake bleaching.
177
viuh fxurh vkSj oL=] fn[kkbZ vkSj eqyk;eiu ds dkj.k dks;EcVqj lkMh us
fL=;ksa ds lkeus vyx vk/kkj cuk fy;k gSA ianzg o"kZ iwoZ] dks;EcVqj ds cqudj
lkM+h ds mRiknu ds fy, flQZ dikl dk gh mi;ksx djrs FksA tc Li/kkZ dfBu gks
x;k D;ksafd ,sls lkM+h vk/kqfud fey Hkh djus yxs rks cqukbZ ds fy, gFkdj?kk {ks=
us u;s rjhdk dk vfo"dkj fd;kA bl izdkj dksjk js'ke dk mnHko gqvkA
igys ;kuZ lkM+h ds ikoq vkSJ ÅM; dh cqukbZ ds fy, dksjk js'ke dks mi;ksx
fd;k tkrk FkkA ckn esa O;kIr ekSle dh fLFkfr dks ns[kdj] fefJr dksjk js'ke lkM+h
ds fuekZ.k esa ikoq ds fy, dksjk /kkxk vkSj ÅM; ds fy, dikl /kkxs dk mi;ksx
fd;k tkus yxkA dks;EcVqj dk orZeku dksjk js'ke lkM+h dks ns'kHkj ds yksxksa ls
cgqr iz'kalk feyhA
enzkl fMfLVªd xftfVvj & dks;EcVqj] MkW-ch-,l-cfyxk ¼1966½ }kjk
fyf[kr] dksob dksjk dikl dk fuEufy[kr 'kCnksa esa %
^^pksy ds le; esa m|ksx] gFkdj?kk] /kkrq dk;Z vkSj tokgjkr {ks= dk fo'ks"k
egRo FkkA gFkdj?kk oL= dk mÙke js'ke vkSj dikl Hkh ges'kk jktdh; egyksa]
eafnjksa vkSj fons'kksa dks tkrk Fkk tcfd ckdh lc Qsjhokys ns'k Hkj esa csprs FksA
gels dgk tkrk gS fd ijf'k;k xYQ ds fljkQ vkSj fd'k esa ^mÙke NksVk rkSfy;k*
vkSj ^fyusu ok;y* dk fu;kZZr fd;k tkrk Fkk vkSj Hkkjr & phu esa lHkh izdkj ds
dikl oL= vkSj jaxhu js'ke /kkxs dk fu;kZr fd;k tkrk FkkA**
,d vU; lanHkZ esa] dksob dksjk dikl ds fo'ks"krk dks ;g xftfVvj bl
rjg dgrk gS %
^^bl ftys esa lcls vke fdLe dk oL= [kqjnjk jaxhu lkM+h gSA
;g 20 ls 30 ;kuZ ls cuk;k tkrk gS vkSj yEckbZ 14 ls 18 gkFk Hkj dh uki
gksrh gS vkSj pkS<kbZ 42 ls 45 bap ds 18 ls 20 iate gksrh gSA jaxhu lkM+h dk eq[;
mRikfnr {ks usxee] ea=hiky;e] isjh;iky;e] vEeiky;e] lsfueyb vkSj f'kofxjh
178
In ancient days Kings, Zamindars etc., who ruled the countries, were honouring talented
persons by way of giving prizes and they preferred hand woven clothes. “SAREE” is one
of the best clothes often liked by the women in India. In spite of many modern clothes
sarees still hold their specialty and importance. Kovai Kora Cotton Saree is one of the
types of blended textiles, which contains Kora silk yarn and 2/100 mercerised cotton
yarn. It looks like pure silk sarees but sold at low price.
The Alignments of the Parts:
The reed through which the warp ends passes is fixed to the slay. It is mainly
operated by hand. The treadles are attached to the healds and in conjunction with the
lease rods provide the necessary shedding for the shuttle to pass through in the process of
weaving. The shuttle contains the prim on which the weft yarn is wound. The warp beam
is primarily designed to provide the necessary tension while weaving, and the cloth beam
is used to roll the cloth woven. The shuttle travels to shuttle box and is thrown by hand
from one end to the other. The warp wise threads are called "ends" while the weftwise
threads as "picks". The reads used by weavers at Coimbatore are made of iron rods.
The equipments and Tools used for production:
1. Bobbin.
2. Vertical Charka and Prin.
3. Twisting machine.
4. Warping machine.
5. Slay
6. Treadle
7. Reed
8. Healds
179
gSA vf/kdrj ;kuZ dk miHkksx LFkuh; fey ls izkIr gksrk gS tcfd jaxhu ;kuZ
eq[;r% yky enqjbZ esa rS;kj jaxkbZ ls vk;kr fd;k tkrk gSA va; jax dh j¡xkbZ
fr#iqj] dkax;e] lsUuhey;] Hkokuh vkSj ea=hiky;e esa dh tkrh gS tgk¡ gosjks
VsªfMax dEiuh ds ,tsaV jax dks iwfrZ djrs gS vkSj j¡xkbZ dh izfd;k esa jaxusokyksa
dks funsZ'k nsrs gSaA bu [kqjnjs lkM+h ds vykok mÙkjh fljdkj dks fu;kZr djus ds
fy, lR;eaxye esa iqYykeisVk vkÑfr dk mÙke fxurh dk Hkwjk lkM+h dk mRiknu
fd;k tkrk Fkk**A
mijksDr oDrO; ls irk pyrk gS fd th- vkbZ {ks= ds cqudj leqnk; dikl
;kuZ ds 20 vkSj 30 fxurh ls fofHkUu izdkj ds jaxhu [kqjnjk lkM+h dk mIiknu
djrs FksA ijEijkxr rjhdk ds mi;ksx ls lkM+h dk mRiknu djus ds fy, bl {ks=
ds cqudj fof'k"V FksA vfrfjDr yEck jksok ds vkus ds ckn] ije lkQ dikl ds
100 vkSj 120 fxurh tSls lqfou dikl fdLe vkSj fefJr] ije Økl&czsM ¼lh-ch½
ds ifjp;] efYVoksyVkbu] fooksyVkbu vkSj fcoksyVkbu js'kedhM+s dks"k dk 18@20
Msfu;j vkSj 20@22 mPp xq.krk js'ke js'kk] ijEijkxr cqudj tks th- vkbZ {ks= ds
gS] dksob dksjk dikl lkM+h mPp xq.krk esa cny ldrs gS nksuks izdkj ds js'kk dks
fe{k.k djdsA os yxHx [kqjnjk dikl lkM+h dk mRiknu bl {ks= es can dj pqds
gSaA ysfdu] bZjkM+ ftys esa] lR;eaxye vkSj l/kqeqxb vkfn ds NksVs {ks= dks NksM+dj]
tgk¡ dksob dkjk dikl lkM+h dk vc Hkh mRiknu gksrk gS] vf/kdrj {ks= vHkh Hkh
[qjnjk izdkj ds dikl oL= ftlesa lkM+h 'kfey gS dk mRiknu djrs gSaA
¼ts½ mRiknu dh jhfr %
fMxfEeax
gj rkuk ;k ckuk ;kuZ dk Hkkj yxHkx ,d ikmUM ¼yxHkx 0-5 fd-
xzk½ bj Hkkj dks ^FkkM+k* dgrs gSaA FkkM+k dks rk¡ck crZu esa rhu ls ik¡p feuV nqck;k tkrk gS ftlesa BaMk ikuh gksrk gSA ckn esa mls fupksM+k tkrk gS vkSj nsk
180
9. Solid Border device
10. Warp beam
11. Cloth Roller
12. Shuttle with Pirn
13. Least rods
14. Dobby & Jacquared Machine
Details of Raw Materials
During the production of Kovai Kora sarees, the Kora silk is used for warp and
2/100 mercerised yarn is used for weft, and half fine jari is used for making the border
and putta.
Warp : While making No. 40 dropping – 20 / 22 denier Kora silk
While making No. 30 dropping – 18 / 20 denier Kora silk.
Weft : 2 / 100 s Kora mercerised cotton yarn 110s – Kora mercerized cotton yarn
On certain occasions, 30 / 1000 polyester, 32 / 34 Dussar silk and pure silk are used.
Border warp : 30 denier half fine Zari
Pallu and Putta : 50 denier half fine Zari
In several Tamil Nadu villages, mostly in the western and north-western districts,
silk worm cocoons are produced. From these cocoons, silk yarn is produced by using the
processes named “Degumming” and “Reeling”. Un-degummed (RAW) silk yarn is called
Kora Silk Yarn. Kora silk yarn is purchased from “TANSILK” of the Tamil Nadu
Government.
181
ck¡l ds NM+h ftldk vkdkj 3^×11½^ gksrk gS esa ?kqlsM+k tkrk gSA blh chp rk¡ck
?kM+k ftldk O;kl 2^ vkSj yEckbZ 3½ gksrh gS esa 4 xSyu ikuh dks ikuh dks [kkSyk
nsus okyh ek=k rd c<+k;k tkrk gSA ,d ;w-,l-,u-, lkcqu dk VqdM+k tks 600 xzke
dk gksrk gS [kkSyk ikuh esa feyk;k tkrk gSA ;g lkcqu pwuk] dkfLVd lksM+k]
ukfj;y rsy vkSj jsflu ls LFkkuh; yksx gh cukrs gSA ckFk esa FkkM+k dks nqck;k tkrk
gS vkSj gj 2 ls 3 feuV fujarj eksM+k tkrk gSA FkkM+k dks eksM+rs le; bl ckr dk
/;ku j[kk tkrk gS fd ;g crZu ds laidZ esa u vk;s tcrd ikuh ugh gSA 15
feuV ckn] ;g irk pyrk gS fd & js'kedk rjaxe; fn[kkbZ gS tks ;g n'kkZrk gS
fd fMxfEaex dh izfØ;k lEiw.kZ gks x;h gSA ;kuZ dks ckn esa fupksM+k tkrk gS vkSj
rhu vyx crZu esa rhu ckj /kks;k tkrk gSA gj crZu esa 4 ls 5 xSyu ikuh gksrk
gSA 'kgj esa mi;ksx gksus okys ikuh esa dPpk js'ke dks vljnkj ped nsus dk xq.k
gksrk gSA fMxfEaex ikuh dks [kqys eSnku es 1 ehVj oxZ fNnz esa] ftlesa ikuh vkSj
tYyh gksrk gS] esa NksM+ fn;k tkrk gSA
2- Cyhfpax
js'ke ;kuZ dh CYhfpax ds fy, fuEufyf[kr jklk;fud dk mi;ksx gksrk gSA
1- lksM+k jk[k & 0-080 xzke
2- lksfM;e gkbMªks lYQsV & 0-030 xzke
3- MCY;w- th- fVuksikiy & 0-015 xzke
4- Hkwfe ty & 20 yhVj
mijksä lHkh jklk;fud dks ikuh esa feyk;k tkrk gSA ikuh dks 15 feuV
mckyk tkrk gSaA ck¡l ds MaMs ls fujarj ?kqek;k tkrk gSA ;g izfØ;k yxHkx 6 ?kaVk
ysrk gSA 6 ?kaVs ckn js'ke ;kuZ dks fudkyk tkrk gS vkSj nks ckj 20 fcV izfr fdyks
js'ke dks /kks;k tkrk gsA blds ckn 50 fe-yh- ,flfVd ,flM dks ikuh esa feyk;k
tkrk gS vkSj js'ke dks fujarj ?kqek;k tkrk gSA og js'ke ;kuZ pednkj lQsn gks
182
Super fine cotton yarns of 80s, 100s and 12010scounts are obtained from superior cotton
varieties like “SUVIN”. The spinning mills in and around Coimbatore are able to produce
the high quality yarn because of the salubrious weather there. By twisting 100 counts
yarn we get 2 / 100s yarn. In the process of mercerising, all the cotton chips and neps are
removed and then mercerised in 52° TW heat by mixing Caustic Lye chemical to get
smooth and fine –finished, shining yarn. The weavers in the GI area get this weft yarn
from the Spinning Mills in Coimbatore district and also through the Government Co-
Optex yarn godowns of Tamil Nadu state.
In Gujarat state, Half-fine Jari is produced in Surat and other areas in Village
Cottage Industries. To get Half-fine Jari, Super fine Polyester yarn is firstly silver coated
and then it is Gold coated. This Half-fine Jari is available in Coimbatore market.
ii) Twisting or Winding
The Kora silk yarn, which was obtained for producing warp is sent initially for
twisting or winding, wherein it was made into warps counting about 3,960 - 4800 yarns.
Initially the Kora silk yarn is wound in little boxes called bobbins. The boxes so windup,
arranged in order are sent to warping machine, winding them to the extent of the length
required for preparing the warp. Each 120 yarns were made into a spindle and total warp
is made into such spindles and the total warp is taken out.
iii) Dyeing
The dyeing of the Kora silk yarn is similar to the dyeing for silk
yarn. Before dyeing, the Kora silk is required to be washed in pure and plain
water. The kora silk is let immersed in a warm water mixed with dye. After some
time, a wooden stick is wound up with yarn spindle so as to ensure that all the
183
tkrk gSA blds ckn js'ke ;kuZ dks ikuh esa rhu ckj /kks;k tkrk gsA /kks;s gq, ikuh
dks igys ls mi;ksx fd, x<+<s esa Mky fn;k tkrk gSA izfr dj?kk yxHkx 2 ls 3
fd xzk-js'ke ;kuZ dk mi;ksx djrk gS vkSj ;g izfØ;k ,d efgus le; esa fd;k
tkrk gSA bl izfØ;k esa dksbZ iznw"k.k leL;k ugh gksrk gSA
;g dk;Z ijEijkxr #i esa cqudj djrs gSA CYhfpax djrs le; yksxksa dks
dksbZ chekjh ;k Ropk ihM+k ugh gksrk gSA
iwjkus le; ij jktk] tehankj vkfn tks ns'k ij iz'kklu djrs Fks]
izfrHkk'kkyh yksxksa dks buke nsdj lEeku fd;k tkrk Fkk vkSj os gkFk ls fufeZr oL=
dks gh pkgrs FksA lkM+h lcls mÙke oL= Fkk tks vkerkSj ls Hkkjr esa efgyk;sa ilan
djrh FkhA cgqr vk/kqfud oL= gksus ds ckotwn lkMh dh viuh fof'k"Vrj vkSj
eq[;rk gSA dksob dksjk dikl lkM+h ,d izdkj dk fefJr oL= gS ftlesa dksjk
js'ke ;kuZ vkSj 2@100 esjljkbt+n dikl ;kuZ gSA lg ns[kus esa 'kq) lkM+h yxrk
gS ysfdu lLrs esa cspk tkrk gSA
va”k dh iafDRk&c)rk
jhM~ ds }kjk rkuk dh Nksj xqtjrk gS tks Lrksa ls iDdk fd;k tkrk gSA
;g eq[;r% gLr pkfyr gSA fgYn ls ikonku ckaW/kk gksrk gS vkSj yhl NM+h ds
la;kstu ls “kfVy dks vko”;d “ksfMax feyrh gS tks cqukbZ izfØ;k ls xqtjrh gSA “kfVy esa fize gksrk gS ftlls ckuk ;kuZ cuk;k tkrk gSA cqukbZ ds nkSjku
rkuk rjktw dk izkFkfed fMtkbZu VsU”kuu dks vko”;d enn djrk gS vkSj
cqus oL= dks eksM+us ds fy, oL= rjktw dk mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA “kfVy]
“kfVy ckWDl esa ;k=k djrk gS vkSj gkFk ls ,d Nksj ls nwljs Nksj Qsadk tkrk
gSA rkuk ds /kkxs dks ^,aM^ dgrs gSa tcfd ckuk ds /kkxs dks ^&fiDl^ dgrs
gSA dks;EcRrwj dss cqudj }kjk mi;ksx gksusokyh jhM yksgs dh NMh ls cuk gksrk gSA
184
areas of kora silk are properly and uniformly dyed, by using both hands alternately.
The 2/100s gas mercerised yarn which is used for weft is dyed in the same manner
just like No.100s, No.120s yarns.
Dyeing Process:
1. Boiling the 2/100s - merceraised yarn in light heated warm water.
2. Washing the yarn twice in the ordinary cold water.
3. Mixing the chemicals as needed and dyeing is made.
4. “Soaping” is made in light heated water.
5. Again washing the yarn in the ordinary cold water. iv. Colours / Dyes Frequently Used
During the production of kora cotton saree, several colour yarns are used. The
saree is produced both in light colour and dark colour. Acetic acid is added to make the
dyes fast. That means the dye colour is not dissolving in water. Sweat from human skin
cannot also dissolve. Hence, there is no environmental pollution or human health
problem. Acetic acid is safe. It is commonly called as vinegar, which is produced by
overnight fermentation of cooked cold rice. Vinegar is a healthy food.
Dyeing Shades Colours Chemical Used
Light shade Lavender Vat Purple 2R
Dassar Vat Brown 2G
Lemon Yellow GCN
185
cqukbZ ds fy, vU; inkFkZ vkSj midj.k gS%
1- <jdh 2- lh?kh pj[kk vkSj fizu
3- V~fofLVax e”khu
4- okfiZax e”khu
5- Lys
6- FkzsMy
7- jhM 8- ghYMl
9- lkWfyM ckWMZj fMokbt
10- okiZ che 11- diMs jksyj
12- fiu ds lkFk “kV~y
13- yhLV jkWM 14- MkWch vkSj tsDoMZ e”khu
dPpk inkFkZ dk fooj.k
dksob dksjk lkM+h ds mRiknu ds nkSjku] rkuk ds fy, dksjk js”ke dk
mi;ksx gksrk gS vkSj ckuk ds fy, 2@100 ejljkbt+< ;kuZ dk mi;ksx gksrk gS vkSj lhek rFkk iqV~Vk cukus ds fy, v/kZ lkQ tjh dk mi;ksx gksrk gSA
rkuk% uEcj 40 Mªkfiax cukus ds fy, & 20@22 Msfu;j dksjk js”ke
uEcj 30 Mªkfiax cukus ds fy, & 18@20 Msfu;j dksjk js”ke
ckuk 2@100,l dksjk ejljkbt+< dikl ;kuZ
110,l & dksjk ejljkbt+< dikl ;kuZ
fdlh volj ij 30@1000 ikWfyLVj 32@34 nLlj js”ke vkSj “kqn~/k js”ke
dk mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA
lhek rkuk % 30 Msfu;j v/kZ lkQ tjh iYyw vkSj iqV~Vk % 50 Msfu;j v/kZ lkQ tjh
186
Cement Vat Olive R
Olive Green B
Brown 2G
Cogar Brown BR
Purple 2R
Light Sumathi Vat Blue GLN
Green XBN
Radium
(Light Green)
Yellow GCN
Vat Blue BC.
Dark Shade Dark Olive Olive Green B
Neptal ASG
Base= Red B
Red Rc
PC Blue Vat Peacock XBN
K Blue KSBO
Blue BB (Base)
S Blue Vat Blue BCGN
Chocolate ASBO – GCC
Corian B
187
rfeyukMq ds dbZ xkaWoksa esa] eq[;r% if”peh vkSj mRrj if”peh ftysa esa
js”ke dhMksa ds dks’k dk mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA bl dks’k ls] ^fMxfEeax^ vkSj
^fjfyax^ juke ds izfØ;k }kjk js”ke ;kuZ dk mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA xSj&fMxEeM+ js”ke ;kuZ dks dksjk js”ke ;kuZ dgk tkrk gSA rfeyukMq
ljdkj ds ^rkuflYd%^ ls dksjk js”ke ;kuZ [kjhnk tkrk gSA
loksZRre dikl fdLe tSls ^lqfou^ ls 80,l]100
,l vkSj 120
,l fxurh ds
mRre lkQ dikl ;kuZ izkIr fd;k tkrk gSA dks;EcRrwj ds vklikl ds lwr
dkVuk pDdh mRre xq.krk ;kuZ mRiknud jus esa l{ke gS D;ksafd ogka dk
ekSle vuqdwy gSA 100 fxurh ;kuZ dks ejksM+dj gesa 2@100,l ;kuZ feyrk
gSA ejljkflax ds izfØ;k esa lHkh dikl fpi vkSj usi dks gVk;k tkrk gS vkSj
ckn esa 52º Vh MCY;w m’.k esa ejljkbt+< fd;k tkrk gS dkWfLVd yb jklk;fud dks feykdj rkfd dksey vkSj LoPN lekIr pedrk ;kuZ feysA
dks;EcRrwj ftyk ds Lihfuax pDdh ls th vkbZ {ks= ds cqudj dks ;g ckuk
;kuZ feyrk gS vkSj rfeyukMq jkT; ds ljdkj dks&vkIVsDl xksnke ls HkhA
xqtjkr jkT; esa] lwjr vkSj xkaWo dqVhj m|ksx ds vU; {ks= esa v/kZ lkQ
tjh dk mRiknu gksrk gSA v/kZ&lkQ tjh dks ikus ds fy,] mRre lkQ ikWfyLVj ;kuZ dks igys pkaWnh ls ysi fd;k tkrk gS vkSJ ckn esa Lo.kZ lsA
;g v/kZ lkQ tjh dks;EcRrwj cktkj esa miyC/k gSA
2- V~fofLVax ;k okbufMax
dksjk js”ke ;kuZ tks rkuk ds mRiknu ds fy, izkIr fd;k tkrk gS] tgkW
bls yxHkx 3960&4800 ;kuZ rkuk fxurh esa cuk;k tkrk gSA igys dksjk js”ke ;kuZ dks NksVk cDls ftls ckWfcu dgrs gSa esa owUM fd;k tkrk gSa cDlksa
dks lesVk tkrk gS] okfiZax e”khu dks dze ls Hkstk tkrk gS] rkuk cukus ds
fy, vko”;d yEckbZ rd okbafMax fd;k tkrk gSA izfr 120 ;kuZ dks rdqvk
esa cuk;k tkrk gS vkSj dqy rkuk dks ,sls rdqvk esa cuk;k tkrk gS vkSj dqy
rkuk dks ,sls rdqvk esa cuk;k tkrk gS vkSj dqy rkuk dks fudkyk tkrk gSA
3- jaWxkbZ
dksjk js”ke ;kuZ dh jaWxkbZ js”ke ;kuZ dh jaWxkbZ tSls gh gSA jaWxkbZ ls
igys dksjk js”ke dks “kq) vkSj lknk ikuh esa /kks;k tkrk gSA jax dks xje
ikuh esa feykdj mlesa dksjk jks”ke dks nqck;k tkrk gSA dqN le; ckn
ydM+h ds NM+h ls ;kuZ rdqvk dks ?kqek;k tkrk gS rkfd dksjk js”ke ds lHkh
188
To avoid pollution, the waste water of Dyeing is processed in the following manner:
a. Waste water collected in a “Collection Bank”.
b. Shifting the waste water in a separate tank.
c. Mixing Poly Electrolite and Pero Sulphate and get the diluted water of
upper portion of the mixing.
d. The diluted water is passed in a tank, which contains “SAND”, and then
another tank contains “CARBON”.
e. Lastly the water is delivered in streets and rivers.
v. Warp Preparation
A task named warp preparation is being done by the weavers, when the twisted
and dyed warp is furnished for weaving immediately before mounting the warp in the
loom. For this purpose, a street or public place running to more than 51.50 metrs, which
is actually the length of a warp required. In the venue of warp preparation, one end of the
warp is tied with an iron rod and the other end is held by two persons. After elongation of
full length of warp, they would check the entire warp, and broken yarns would be
mended. If there is any discontinuity or mess they would be removed. The measurement
of each saree to be woven will be marked. Thereafter, the warp will be rolled into a
cylinder, transported to the house of the weaver and fixed properly in the place meant for
fixing warp cylinder. It takes about 3 hours and 30 minutes to execute this task.
vi. Piecing the warp
The task of joining the warp fixed in the cylinder to the old warp
yarn, which is found in the “Reed” and “Achu” is called “warp piecing”. They used to
conjoin the old warp yarn and new warp yarn. Generally this work is done by a member
of the weaver community or his family members.
189
{ks= dks vPNh rjg vkSj lery <ax ls jax yx tk;s] ikjh ikjh ls nksuksa gkFkksa
dk mi;ksx djdsA
uacj 100
,l] uacj 120
,l - ;kuZ dh rjg gh ckuk jaWxkbZ ds fy,
2@100,l xSl ejlkbjkbt<+ ;kuZ dk mi;ksx gksrk gSA
jaWxkbZ izfØ;k
1- gYds xje ikuh esa 2@100,l ejljkbt< ;kuZ dks mckyk tkrk gSA
2- lkekU; B.Ms ikus esa ;kuZ dks nks ckj /kks;k tkrk gSA
3- vko”;drk ds vuqlkj jlk;fud dk feJ.k fd;k tkrk gS vkSj ja WxkbZ
fd;k tkrk gSA
4- gYds xje ikuh esa ^lksfiax^ cuk;k tkrk gSA
5- fQj lkekU; B.Ms ikuh esa ;kuZ dks nqckjk /kks;k tkrk gSA
4- T;knkrj mi;ksx gksus okys jax@ Mkb
dksjk dikl lkMh ds mRiknu ds le;] dbZ jax ;kuZ dk mi;ksx gksrk
gSA nksuksa gYdk jax vkSj xgjk jax esa lkM+h dk mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA jax
idM+us ds fy, ,flfVd ,flM dks feyk;k tkrk gSA bldk vFkZ gS fd ikuh
esa jax /kksysxk ughaA euq’; Ropk dk ilhuk Hkh ugha /kksysxkA vr% ;gkaW dksbZ Ik;kZoj.k iznq’k.k euq’; LokLF; dh leL;k ugha gsA ,flfVd ,flM lqjf{kr
gksrk gSA bls vkerkSj ls fousxj dgrs gS ftldk mRiknu idk;s gq, B.Ms
;kou ds jkrHkj lM+us ls gksrk gSA fousxj ikSf’Vd Hkkstu gSA
jaWxkbZ Nk;k jax mi;ksx gqvk jlk;u
gYdk Nk;k yosUnj oSV tkequh 2 vkj
Mjlj oSV HKwjk 2 th
uhacw ihyk th lh ,u
lhesaV oSV tSrwu vkj
tSrwu gjk ch
Hkwjk 2 th
dks?kj Hkwjk ch vkj
tkequh 2 vkj
190
vii. Particulars of measurements in the production of Kovai Cora Cotton
Total length: 6.3 mts. (Includes the saree length of 5.50 mtrs and blouse piece of
0.80 meters).
A warp is used to prepare 8 sarees. The remainder of 1.10 meters in a warp is
used for warp piecing.
Saree (Approximate) : 450 gm
Length of Production of time : 2 days
No. of sarees produced by a weaver : 16 sarees
family of 3-4 members in a month
viii. Pallu
Incorporating a pallu design is a specialty and generally pallu
design is woven for about 25-40”. Every pallu design is divided into three parts: In the
first 6” and last 6” pallu design would look similar, and the pallu design formed in
between would consist of an ornamental motif or a motif of bird or any aesthetic design.
The pallu design measuring 25” would be called ordinary pallu design and the design
measuring 40” would be called “rich pallu design”.
ix. Putta
In every saree, putta designs in the sequence of 5 to 7 are woven.
Putta is woven in two types viz., minor putta or large putta. Generally, an ornamental
motif or a flower in the figurative design or figure in the pallu is selected for the putta
design. Minor putta would measure ½” to 1” and major putta 2” to 2½”.
191
gYdk lqerh oSV ehyk th ,y ,u
gjk ,Dl ch ,u
jsfM;e
gYdk gjk
ihyk th lh ,u
oSV uhyk ch lh
xgjk Nk;k xgjk tSrwu tSrwu gjk ch
usiVky , ,l th
csl& yky ch
yky vkj lh
ih lh uhyk oSV eksj ,l ch ,u
ds uhyk ds ,l ch vks
uhyk ch ch (csl) ,l uhyk oSV uhyk ch lh th ,u
pkWdysV , ,l ch vks th lh lh
dksfj;u ch
iznw’k.k ls cpus ds fy,] jaWxkbZ ds csdkj ikuh dk fuEufyf[kr <ax ls
izdj.k fd;k tkrk gSA v- lekpkj cSad esa csdkj ikuh dk lap; fd;k tkrk gSA
vk- vyx VSad esa csdkj ikuh dk LFkkukarj.k fd;k tkrk gSA
b- iksyh ,yDVªkykbV vkSj iSjks lYQsV dks feyk;k tkrk gS vkSj Åijh Hkkx ds
feJ.k ls feykoVh ikuh fudkyk tkrk gSA
bZ- feykoVh ikuh dks BSd ls xqtkjk tkrk gS ftlesa ^feV~Vh^ gksrk gS ckn esa
nwljk cSd esa ftlesa ^dkcZu^ gksrk gSA m- var esa ikuh dks ukyh vkSj unh esa NksM+ fn;k tkrk gSA
5- rkuk cukuk
,d dk;Z ftls rkuk cukuk dgrs gS cqudj }kjk fd;k tkrk gS] tc
ejksM+k gqvk vkSj jaxkbZ rkuk dks rqjUr cqukbZ ds fy, fn;k tkrk gS] dj/kk esa rkuk Mkyus ls igysA blds fy,] 51-50 ehvj ls yEck xyh ;k lkoZtfud
txg pkfg, tks okLro esa rkuk dh vko”;d yackbZ gSA rkuk cukus ds txg
ij ,d Nksj ij rkuk dks yksgs dh NM+h ls ckaW/k fn;k tkrk gS vkSj nwljs Nksj
ij nks yksx idM+ dj j[krs gSA rkuk ds iw.kZ yEckbZ ds QSYus ds ckn os lEiw.kZ
rkuk dk fujhZ{k.k djsaxs vkSj VwVs gq, rkuk dks Bhd djsaxsA vxj dksbZ
fujUrjrk esa deh ;k [kjkc gks x;k rks fudky nsaxsA cukus okys gj lkM+h ds
192
x. Zari
One marc weighing 242 grams contains 5 bobbins with a length of 2200 to 2400
yards. Flattened Silver is coiled round filature reeded raw silk conceal the silk thread.
This silver thread is coated with gold used in the production of Kovai Kora Cotton
Sarees. Tamil Nadu Zari Ltd., a state owned unit functioning at Kanchipuram, supply the
zari to Co-operative Societies.
The Zari contains:
Silver : 57.00%
Silk : 24.00%
Gold : 0.60%
Copper : 18.40%
The Zari quality is tested by the Tamil Nadu Zari Ltd, Kancheepuram, a unit of
Government of Tamil Nadu. If the test results indicate lower contents of the above
metals, the Zari will be rejected and returned to the manufacturers. Only the Zari with
correct contents will be used in making the of Kovai Kora Cotton Saree:
Quality of Kovai Kora Cotton Saree:
To get the high quality Kovai Cora Cotton Sarees, each registered Co-operative
Society is having one or two appraisers to check the sarees in all the following quality
attributes:
1. Length and width of sarees.
2. Warp ends and weft picks.
3. Design infrastructure.
4. Border ends of the sarees.
5. Putta numbers.
6. Clean folding.
193
eki djsaxsA blds ckn rkuk dks lhfyanj esa Mkyrk tkrk gSA cqudj ds ?kj esa
ysdj tkrs gS vkSj rkuk lhfyanj dh txg ij vPNh rjg ckaW/kkk tkrk gSA
;g dk;Z djus esa yxHkx 3 ?kaVk 30 feuV yxrk gSA
6- rkuk dks fiflax djuk
lhfyanj ls iqjkus rkuk ;kuZ dks tksM+us dk dk;Z tks ^jhM^ vkSj ^vPNq esa
ik;k tkrk gS dks ^rkuk fiflax^ dgk tkrk gSA os iqjkus rkuk ;kuZ vkSj u; s
rkuk ;kuZ dks tksM+rs gSA vke rkSj ls ;g dk;Z cqudj leqnk; Fkk ifjokj dk lnL; djrs gSA
7- dksob dksjk dikl dk eki dk fooj.k
dqy yEckbZ % 6-3 ehVj (ftlesa “kkfey gS lkM+h dh yEckbZ 5-5 ehVj
vkSj Cykmt ihl dk 0-80 ehVj)
8 lkMh cukus ds fy, ,d rkuk dk mi;ksx gksrk gSA ckdh 1-10 ehVj
rkuk dk mi;ksx rkuk fiflax ds fy, gksrk gSA
lkM+h & 450 xzke
le; dk mRiknu dh yEckbZ % 2 fnu
3&4 lnL;okys ifjokj
,d eghus esa mRikfnr
lkfM;kas dh la[;k % 16 lkM+h
8- iYyw
iYyw fMtkbu dk lekfo’V djuk fof”k’Vrk gS vkSj vke rkSj ls iYyw
fMtkbu yxHkx 25&40^^ esa cqukbZ dh tkrh gSA gj iYyw fMtkbu dks rhu
Hkkxksa esa ckaWVk x;k gS % igys 6^^ vkSj vkf[kjh 6^^ esa iYyw fMtkbu ns[kus esa ,d
leku gksaxs vkSj chp esa cus iYyw fMtkbu esa vyadkfjr dFkkoLrq ;k i{kh dFkkoLrq ;k dksbZ yfyr dyk”kkL= fMtkbu gksaxsA iYyw fMtkbu ftldk
eki 25^^ gksxk dks lkekU; fMtkbu dgsaxs vkSj 40^^ fMtkbu eki dks mRre
iYyw fMtkbu dgsaxsA
194
For the quality assurance of the pure silk used in the production of the quality
parameters adopted for the “Silk Mark” by the Central Silk Board were followed.
They included mainly a simple flame test, and a microscopic test to ascertain the
purity of the fabric. It gives the results in seconds. If the fabric burns slowly leaving a
black residue and smells like burnt hair, it is pure silk.
(K) Uniqueness: Kovai Kora Cotton saree is a blend of cotton and silk yarns beautifully woven in
the fine craftsmanship, unsurpassed in the annals of textile history.
The method of dyeing and the tie and dye method used for the border of Kovai
Kora Cotton are the trade secrets kept by the people of particular weaving community of
Coimbatore region. The climate of Coimbatore region ensures that the yarns for the warp
preparation are not cut.
Kora Cotton is produced with a minimum manpower of 3 persons. The quality
dyeing is ensured by using the water of Siruvani and Bhavani rivers, which originate
from Western Ghats.
(L) Inspection Body
A Quality Control body is being established by Department of Handlooms & Textiles,
Government of Tamil Nadu, which is autonomous and consists of not less than ten
members representing Central & State Government Organizations and Industries in order
to control the quality and to maintain the quality of Kovai Kora Cotton Sarees.
195
9- iqV~Vk
gj lkM+h esa] Ja[kyk 5 ls 7 dk iqV~Vk fMtkbu cuk;k tk;sxkA iqV~Vk nks izdkj ls cukbZ tkrh gS tSls NksVk iqV~Vk ;k cM+k iqV~VkA vke rkSj ls
iqV~Vk fMtkbu ds fy, vkyadkfjr fo’k;oLrq] Qwy vkdfr ;k vkdfr dk
pquko fd;k tkrk gSa NksVk iqV~Vk dk eki 1@2^^ ls 1^^ vkSj cM+k iqV~Vk dk
2^6 ls 2 1@2^^ gksrk gSA
10- t+jh
,d ekdZ ftldk otu 250 xzke gksrk gS esa 5 ckfcu miyC/k gS ftldh
yackbZ 2200 ls 2400 ;kMZ gksrs gSaA QysV fd;s x;s flYoj dks Qkbyspj jhM
fd;s x;s js”ku ds Åij] js”keh /kkxk dks fNikus ds fy, dkby fd;k tkrk
gSA bl lksus ls dksV fd;s x;s flYoj /kkxk dks dksoS dksjk dikl lkfM;ksa ds mRiknu ds fy, mi;ksx fd;ktkrkgSA rfeyukMq tjh fyfeVsM] jkT; Lok;Rr
bdkbZ tks dkaphiqje esa dk;Zjr gS] dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbfV;ksa dkstjh vkiwfrZ
djrk gSA
tjh esa fuEu miyC/k gS
flYoj 57-00 izfr”kr
js”ke 24-00 izfr”kr
lksuk 0-60 izfr”kr
dkWij 18-40 izfr”kr
tjh xq.krk dks rfeyukMq tjh fyfeVsM] dkaWphiqje }kjk ijh{K.k fd;ktkrk gS tks rfeyukMq ljdkj ds m|e gSA vxj ijh{k.k esa mDr
[kfutksa dh miyfC/k de fn[kkbZ nsrk gS rks tjh dks frjLdkj fd;k tk,xk
vkSj mRikndksa dks okil fd;k tk,xkA dksoS dksjk dikl lkfM;ksa dh mRiknu
ds mfpr tjh dk gh mi;ksx fd;k tk,xkA
dksob dksjk dikl lkM+h dh xq.krk %
196
mPp xq.krk ds dksob dksjk dikl lkM+h izkIr djus ds fy,] gj iathd`r
lgdkfjrk lekt ds ikl ,d ;k nks ewY;kadu djus okys gksrs gS rks lkM+h dh
xq.krk dh tkaWp fuEufyf[kr vk/kkj ij djrs gS %
1- lkM+h dh yEckbZ vkSj pkSM+kbZ
2- rkuk Nksj vkSj ckuk fiDl
3- fMtkbu <kaWpk
4- lkM+h dh lhek Nksj
5- iqV~Vk uEcj 6- lkQ ejksM+uk
dsUnzh; js”ke cksMZ }kjk fu/kkZfjr ^flYd ekdZ ^ dk ikyu “kqn~/k js”ke ds
mRiknu ds mi;ksx esa xq.krk dk ikyu djrs gSA blesa eq[;r% lk/kk yiV
ijh{kk vkSj lw{e ijh{kk gksrk gS tks oL= dh “kqn~/krk dk eki djrk gSA ;g
,d {k.k esa ifj.kke nsrk gSA vxj oL= /khjs tyrk gS vkSj dkyk vo”ks’k NksM+rk gS rFkk tys cky tSlk xa/k vkrk gS rks “kqn~/k js”ke gSA
ds- vuks[kkiu
dksob dksjk dikl lkMh dikl vkSj js”ke ;kuZ dks feykdj [kwclwjrh ls] tfVy
dkjhxjh esa Hkquk;s x;s lkMh gS ftls VsDLVkby bfrgkl esa ikj ugha fd;k x;k gSA
Mkbax rjhdk rFkk Vkb vkSj Mkb rjhdk tks dksob dksjk dikl ds ckMZj ds
fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS] og ml dks;EcRrwj {ks= ds ohfoax lewg ds O;fDr;ksa
}kjk O;kikj lacaf/kr xqIr ckr ds :i esa j[kk x;k gSA dks;EcRrwj dh ekSle ;g
lqfu”pr djrk gS fd okiZ rS;kjh ds fy, ;kuZ dks dkVk ugha tkrk gSA
dksjk dikl dks 3 O;fDR;ksa ds fuEure eSuiooj ds lkFk mRiknu fd;k
tkrk gSA xq.krk Mkbax fl#ok.kh rFkk Hkokuh ufn;ksa ds ikuh dks mi;ksx djds
lqfu”pr fd;k tkrk gS] tks if”pe ?kkV ls mRiUu gksrs gSA
197
,y- ijh{k.k ckWMh
dksob dksjk dikl lkMh dh xq.krk dks lqfuf”pr djus rFkk dkso S dksjk dikl lkMh dh xq.krk dks fu;a=.k esa j[kus ds fy,] dsUnz rFkk jkT; ljdkjh
laxBuksa rFkk m|ksxksa dks izfrfuf/kRo djusokys 10 (nl) O;fDr lfEefyr ,d
Lok;Rr xq. krk fu;a=.k ckWMh dk gSMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx] rfeyukMq ljdkj lss
LFkkfir fd;k x;kA
198
199
200
th vkbZ vkosnu la-92
gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx] rfeyukMq ljdkj] dqjyxe (f}rh; eafty)] psUuS 108] Hkkjr }kjk vkj.kh flYd ds jftLVj ds Hkkx , esa] VSDLVkby vkSj VSdLVkby lkexzh rFkk diMs ftlesa Øe”k% oxZ 24]25 esa iMusokys lkfM+;kaW vkSj :eky
lfEefyr gS ds laca/k esa] vkosnu la-92 ds v/khu iathdj.k ds fy, vkosnu fd;k
tkrk gSA izLrqr vkosnu tks ,rn~}kjk lkexzh dk HkkSxks fyd laadsr iathdj.k o
lqj{kk) vf/kfu;e 1999 ds /kkjk 13 mi/kkjk 1 ds v/khu Lohdr foKkfir gSA
vkosnd % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
psUuS 108
izfrfuf/k
Jh ih- lat; xkaW/kh
vf/koDrk
6 ykW psEcj mPp U;k;ky;] psUubZ 600104
irk % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
dqjyxe (II eafty)
psUuS 108
HkkSxks fyd ladsr % vkj.kh flYd
oxZ % 24 vkSj 25
lkexzh % VsDLVkby o VsDLVkby lkexzh vkSj diMs ftlesa
lkM+h lfEefyr gS
201
G.I. – APPLICATION NUMBER 92 Application is made by Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu.Kuralagam, (II Floor),Chennai - 600 108 India for registration in Part A of the register of “Arani Silk” under Application No 92 in respect of Textiles and Textile goods, and Clothing including Sarees and Rumal falling in Class 24, and 25 respectively is hereby advertised as accepted under sub-section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. Applicant : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu
Represented by Mr. P. SANJAI GANDHI Advocate 6, Law Chamber High Court of Madras Chennai - 600104
Address Departmentof Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamilnadu Kuralagam, (II Floor), Chennai - 600 108
Geographical Indication : Arani Silk Class : 24 and 25 Goods : Textiles and Textile goods, and Clothing
including Sarees.
202
,- vkosnd % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
ch- irk % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx
rfeyukMq ljdkj
dqjyxe (II eafty)
psUuS 600 108
lh- O;fDr;ksa@mRikndksa@ laxBu@ izkf/kdkjh % laxBu@ izkf/kdj.k
Øe la lkslkbVh dk uke o irk
1- n vkj.kh flYe gSMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh ,p ,p
106] 29 osniwj bZ”ojj dksbZy LVªhV] dksliky;e] vkj.kh
632301 fr#o..kkeyS ftyk] rfeyukMq
2- n v..kS vatqxe flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh
fyfV] ds ,p 50] 58 ,] lqUnje LVªhV] dksliky;e]
vkj.kh 632 301 fr#o..kkeyS ftyk] rfeyukMq
3- n vkj.kh n;kyk vEesS;kj flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo
lkslkbVh fyfeVsM] oh ,p-52] 75] R;kxh lqczef.k;e LVªhV] dksliky;e] vkj.kh 632 301 fr#o..kkeyS ftyk] rfeyukMq
4- n dksjdrwj vfjKj v..kk flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh fyfeVsM] ds ,p 186] la-2@42] fr# oh d LVªhV]
dksrqdRrwj xkaWo] ps;~;kj Vh ds] fr#o..kkeyS ftyk
fdlh Hkh lkslkbVh ;k vlksfl;s”ku ftUgsa igys gh LFkkfir fd;k x;k gks ;k ftUgs
th vkbZ- jftLVªh dks lefiZr fd;k x;s igpkus x;s {ks=h; lhekvksa ds v/khu
(uD”kk) Hkfo’; es LFkkfir fd;k tk,xk] dkuwuh vko”;drkvksa dks vuqikyu
djus ij] th-vkbZ ekdZ dks mi;ksx djus gdZ gksaxs A
Mh- lkexzh dk izdkj % mRikfnr lkexzh VsDLVkby
203
(A) Name of the Applicant : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu (B) Address : Department of Handlooms and Textiles,
Government of Tamilnadu Kuralagam, (II Floor),
Chennai - 600 108 (C) List of association of persons /
Producers / organization / Authority : Organization / authority : S.No Name & Address of the Societies
1 The Arani Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society H.H. 106. 29 Vedapuri Eswarar Koil Street, Kosapalayam, Arani – 632 301. Tiruvannamalai district, Tamil Nadu
2 The Annai Anjugam Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd. K.H.50, 58 A Sundaram Street, Kosapalayam, Arani – 632 301. Tiruvannamalai district, Tamil Nadu
3 The Arani Dhayala Ammaiyar Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd., V.H. 52, 75, Thiyagi Subramaniyam Street, Kosapalayam, Arani – 632 301. Tiruvannamalai district, Tamil Nadu
4 The Korakathur Aringer Anna Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd., K.H.186. No. 2/42, Thiru Vi – Ka Street, Kotukathur Village Cheiyar T.K Thiruvannamalai Dist.
Any other societies or associations that are already established or that will be established in future Within the identified territorial limits (map) submitted to G.I Registry will also become eligible to use the G.I mark upon the said goods by complying with the requirements under law
(D) Type of goods : Manufactured goods Textiles
204
bZ- fofufnZf’Vdj.k %
rhu izdkj ds vkj.kh js”keh lkMh dk fofunsZ”k fuEufyf[kr izdkj gS %
1- MkWch izdkj dk
2- dksoSZ izdkj dk
3- Lo ckMZj izdkj dk
Øe
la
fooj.k MkWch izdkj dk dksoSZ izdkj dk Lo ckMZj izdkj
dk
1- yackbZ 5-50 ehVj 5-50 ehVj 5-50 ehVj
2- pkMkbZ 46^^117 lseh 46^^117 lseh 46^^117 lseh
3- dksus@bap 110 100 100
4- fiDl@bap 120 70 (3 IykbZ) 70 (3 IykbZ) 5- rkus dk dkSaV 19@21 Msfu;j 19@21 Msfu;j 19@21 Msfu;j
6- osQ~V dkmaV 20@22Msfu;j 20@22Msfu;j 20@22 Msfu;j
7- ckMZj fMtkbu
fofufnZf’Vdj.k
v- mi;ksfxr lkexzh
vk- fMtkbu fuekZ. k
esa mi;ksfxr dksus
dh la[;k
fMt+kbu fuekZ.k
QysV “kqn~/k t+jh
20 dqfyxS
1 dqfyxS 4 tjh dksus
QysV “kqn~/k tjh
50 dqfyxS ls
120 dqfyxS
1 dqfyxS 4 t+jh dksus
QysV “kqn~/k
tjh
50 dqfyxS ls
120 dqfyxS
1 dqfyxS 4 t+jh
dksus
205
(E) S pecification The following are the Specifications for the Three kinds of ARANI SILK SAREE:
1. Dobby variety 2. korvai variety 3. self border variety
SI. NO
PARTICULARS DOBBY VARIETY
KORVAI VARIETY
SELF BORDER VARIETY
1 Length 5.50 Mtrs 5.50Mtrs 5.50 Mtrs 2 Width 46”117 cms 46”117 cms 46”117 cms 3 Ends/Inch 110 100 100 4 Picks/Inch 100 70 (3 ply) 70 (3 ply) 5 Coconut of Warp 19/21 Denier 19/21 Denier 19/21 Denier 6 Count of Weft 20/22 Denier 20/22 Denier 20/22 Denier 7
BORDER DESIGN SPECIFICATION
a. Material used b. No.of ends used
indesign formation
Design formation:
Flat Pure Zari 20 Kuligai 1 Kuligai 4 Zari ends
Flat Pure Zari 50 Kuligai to 120 Kuligai 1 Kuligai 4 Zari ends
Flat Pure Zari 200 Kuligai to 300 Kuligai 1 Kuligai 4 Zari ends
The Central Silk Board has indicated the differences between pure silk and Art silk as follows:
Test Silk Art silk
Burning • Burns but stops burning or burns slowly
• The fumes emit burnt hair smell
• Forms black bead with rough surface
• The bead can be crushed resulting in to crystalline powder
• Burns and burns continuously
• The fumes emit burnt paper smell
• Forms white ash and drops immediately.
• The ash is amorphous in nature
206
“kqn~/k js”ke rFkk vkVZ js”ke ds chp fuEu fHkUurkvksa dk dsUnzh; js”ke cksMZ u s
ladsr fn;k gS %
ijh{k.k js”ke vkVZ js”ke
tykuk & tyrk gS ij /khjs /khj s tyrk gS ;k tyuk can
gks tkrk gSA
& /kqvkaW ls tys cky dh
xa/k vkrh gS
& dBksj ry ds lkFk
dkyk chM fuekZ.k djrk gS
& bl chM dks lanfyr
djus ij fØLVkykbu
ikmMj esa ifj.kr gks tkrk
gSA
& tyrk gS vkSj yxkrkj tyrk jgrk gSA
& /kqvkaW tys x;s dkxt
dk xa/k nsrk gS
& lQsn jk[k curk gS
vkSj rqjar fxj tkrk gSA
& izdfr esa ;g jk[k
vfØLVkykbu gksrh gS
“kfDr & fn;s x;s ?kukiu ds
fy, js”ke /kkxk rqyu esa
cgqr gh “kfDr”kkyh gksrh gSA
& fn;s x;s ?kukiu ds
fy, vkVZ js”ke /kkxk
rqyu esa cgqr gh det+ksj gSA
Øhl & “kqn~/k js”ke lanfyr
izHkko ls fuekZf.kr dzhl ls rqjar fQj izkIr gks tkrk gS
xzhl fuekZ.k ls xzg.k”khy
gS vkSj iqu%izkfIr cgqr gh /kheh gS
js”keh dk HkkSfrd y{k.k
&vkdkj
js”ke dk f=dks.kh; vkdkj dzkl lsD”ku gkrk gS ftudk dksus jkmaMM gksr s
gSA
& ped
f=dks.kh; vkdkj ds dkj.k (dbZ vaxyksa esa izdk”k dks vanj vkus nsus ls) js”ke cgqr gh pedhys Qkbcj gS ftldk vFkZ gS mlesa izkdfrd ped miyC/k gSA
207
Strength • For a given thickness the silk thread is stronger comparatively
• For a given thickness the art silk thread is weaker comparatively
Crease • The pure silk quickly recovers from the crease formed by crushing effect.
• Susceptible to formation of crease, and recovering is rather slow.
Physical Properties of Silk
• Shape
Silk has a triangular shaped cross section whose corners are rounded.
• Lustre Due to the triangular shape (allowing light to hit it at many different angles), silk is a bright fiber meaning it has a natural shine to it.
• Covering Power Silk fibers have poor covering power. This is caused by their thin filament form.
• Hand When held silk has a smooth, soft texture that, unlike many synthetic fibers, is not slippery
• Denier 4.5 g/d (dry); 2.8-4.0 g/d (wet) Mechanical Properties of Silk
• Strength Silk is the strongest of all the natural fibers; however it does lose up to 20% of its strength when wet.
• Elongation/Elasticity
Silk has moderate to poor elasticity. If elongated even a small amount the fibers will remain stretched.
• Resiliency Silk has moderate wrinkle resistance
208
& dofjax “kfDr
js”ke Qkbcj esa nqcZy dofjax “kfDr miyC/k gSA ;g irys fQyesaV fuekZ>k ds dkj.k gSA
& gkFk
gkFk esa ysus ij] js”ke dk ljy] dksey VSDLpj gksrk gS] tks vU; flaFks fVd Qkbcj ds tSls] fpduk ugha gksrkA
& Msfu;j
4-5 th@Mh (lw[ks) 5 2-8&4-0 th@Mh (xhys) js”ke dh esdfudh xq.k/keZ
&”kfDr izkdfrd Qkbcjksa esa ls js”ke gh cgqr “kfDr”kkyh gSA ij Hkh] xhys gksu s
ij og vius “kfDRk esa ls 20 izfr”kr rd [kks nsrk gSA
& yackbZ@ yphysiu js”ke ls lk/kkj.k ls nqcZy yphysiu gksrk gSA FkksMs foLrkj djus ij Hkh
Qkbcj foLrkfjr jgsaxsA
& iyVko
js”kek esa lk/kkj.k fozady izfrjks/k miyC/k gSA
js”ke dh jlk;fudh xq.k/keZ
& vo”kks’kdrk
js”ke esa vPNk ueh iqu%izkfIr 11 izfr”kr dk gksrk gSA
& fctyh pkydrk
js”ke fctyh dk detksj pkyd gS tks mls “khry ekSle esa iguus
lqfo/kktud cuk nsrk gSA bl ;g Hkh vFkZ gS fd js”ke LVsfVd fDyax ls xzg.k”khy gSA
209
Chemical Properties of Silk
• Absorbency Silk has a good moisture regain of 11%.
• Electrical Conductivity Silk is a poor conductor of electricity making it comfortable to wear in cool weather. This also means however, that silk is susceptible to static cling.
• Resistance to Ultraviolet Light/ Biological Organisms Silk can become weakened if exposed to too much sunlight. Silk may also be attacked by insects, especially if left dirty.
• Chemical Reactivity/Resistance Silk is resistant to mineral acids. It is yellowed by perspiration and will dissolve
in sulfuric acid.
• Dimensional Stability Silk does not generally shrink due to the fact that its molecular structure is not easily distorted. (F) Name of the geographical indication & particulars:
ARANI SILK
( G) Description of Goods:
Dobby Variety Traditionally the silk sarees woven in Arani were called DOBBY variety. These sarees were woven by using DOBBY with single thread warp (yarn running horizontally) and single thread weft (yarn running vertically). The border has thin line of Zari (gold thread). The saree weighs about 300 grams. Korvai Variety (One Side And Double Side) Anticipating customer’s willingness for new designs, the technique of interlacing the body and border part of the saree, to give solid colour border which is known as contrast weaving (KORVAI) was introduced. The body and border of the saree has different colours. Again single warps were used for these sarees. The weight about 450 to 600 gms. This Korvai Border Saree is produced in one side or Double side of the silk sarees.
210
& vYVªkokbyV izdk”k@ c;kykWftdy vkxZsfule ls izfrjks/k
vxj vf/kd lw;Z izdk”k esa js”ke dks is”k fd;k tk,xk rks og nqcZYk gks tk,xkA vxj lw[ks j[kk tk, rks dh<s ls vk?kkr Hkh gks ldrk gSA
& jlk;fud fj,fDVoVh@ izfrjks/k
js”ke feujy vfeyksa ls izfrjks/kd gSA ;g ilhus ls ihys gks tkrk gS vkSj lYQfjd vfey esa fi?ky tk,xkA
& fofe; fLFkjrk
js”ke lk/kkj.kr% fldqMrk ugha gS] ;g bl dkj.k ls fd ekfydqyj LVªDpj
dks vklkuh ls rksM ugha ldrs A
,Q- HkkSxks fyd ladsr dk uke (vkSj fooj.k)
vkj.kh js”ke
th- lkexzh lacaf/kr fooj.k
ikjEifjd :i esa vkj.kh esa igus tkusokys js”keh lkfM;kaW MkWch izdkj
dh dgh tkrh FkhA bdgjh rUrq rkuk ({kSfrftd rUrq) esa MkWch dke esa ykdj vkSj bdgjh rUrq Åij uhps okys rUrq esa j[kdj bUgsa cqus tkrk FkkA ckMZj esa
tjh (Lo.kZ rUrq) dh iryh ykbu jgrh gSA lkMh dk otu yxHkx 300 xzkek gSA
dksoSZ izdkj dh (,d ik”oZ ij vkSj nksgjs ok”oZ ij)
xzkgd u;s fMtkbuksa dks ilUn djsaxs bl fo”okl ls dksoSZ oSijhR;
fLFkfr n”kZd cqukbZ ftlesa lkMh dk dysoj Hkkx dh lkMh ds ckMZj Hkkxk ds
lkFk tksMdj Bksl jax ckMZj dh in~/kfr “kq: dh x;hA dysoj vkSj ckMZj fHkUu fHkUu jax ds FksA blewsa Hkh jdgjh rkuk bu lkfM;ksa ds fy, dke essa yk;s
tkrs FksA ;s lkfM;kaW 450 ls 600 xzke otu dh FkhaA ;s dksoZ lkfM;kaW ,d
ik”oZ ;k f}ik”oZ :i esa mRikfnr dh tkrh gSA
211
Self Border Variety Sarees woven either with one side or double side border, but without interlacing (korvai) the body and border is known as self border Saree. This may be woven either with single warp or double warp with single weft or multiples up to 3 strands. (H) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no 224. Arani is located at 12.67° N 79.28° E[1] on the banks of the Kamandala Naaga river. It has an average elevation of 151 metres (495 feet).It is located about 40 km from Vellore and 60 km from Thiruvannamalai and 142 kms from chennai. The Arani Silk production is extended to the area as shown in the Map in page no 224 .The main centers of the location where the Arani Silk is manufactured includes:
1. S.V.Nagaram 2. Kanigilipai 3. Mamandur 4. Panayur 5. Katteri 6. Aathimalaipattu 7. Sevoor 8. Mullipattu 9. Vannankulam 10. Adayapulam 11. Panayaur 12. Payyur 13. Irumbedu 14. Saidapettai 15. Naikanpalayam 16. Kannamangalam 17. Mullandram and all villages included in Arani Taluk.
(I) Proof of origin: (Historical records) Arani means a village made beautiful by rivers. In Tamil “Aru” means River and “Arani” means Beautification. Any one, who happens to travel to Arani would necessarily have to cross many rivers. This town is remembered mainly for the fine silk sarees produced here from time immemorial. In this regard, the Imperial Gazetteers of India Provincial series – Madras – II – Published in 1908, has stated that “A considerable industry in the manufacture of silk and cotton fabrics is carried on in the town (Arani)”.
212
Lo ckMZj izdkj
,d ik”oZ o f}ik”oZ ckMZokys lkfM;kaW ftuesa dysoj vkSj ckMZj vUrjxzfUFkr gS] mUgsa Lo ckMZj lkfM;kaW dgk tkrk gSA bUgsa ;k rks bdgjs rkuk
;k nksgj rkus vkj bdgjs rkus ds lkFk bdgjs ckus esa ;k rhu rUrqvksa ds tksM
ls cquk;k tkrk gSA
,p- mRiknu ds HkkSxksfyd foLrkj vkSj i’B la- 224 esa nf”kZr ekufp=
vkj.kh 12-67^ mRrj 79-28^ iw (1) esa de.My (1) esa de.My ukx unh ds rV
ij gSA mldkl vkSlr mBku 151 ehVj (495 QqV) gSA osYywj ls 40 fd ehVj dh nwjh ij fr#o..kkeyS ls 60 fdyksehVj vkSj psUubZ ls 142 fd ehVj
dh nwjh ij gSA vkj.kh js”keh mRiknu ls lacaf/kr HkkSxksfyd {ks= rFkk uD”kk dks i`’B la- 224 esa fn[kk;s vuqlkj foLrkj fd;k x;k gS
{ks=ksa dk eq[; dsUnz tgkaW vkj.kh js”keh dk mRiknu fd;k tk jgk gS mlesa
fuEu lfEefyr gSA
1- vkj.kh 2- ,l oh uxje
3- efufxfyikbZ
4- eke.Mwj 5- iu;wj 6- dVSjh
7- vFkheySiV~Vq 8- lsowj
9- eqfyiV~Vq
10- oUukudqye
11- vM;kiqye
12- iu;wj 13- iS;wj 14- b#ecsMq 15- lSnkisV~VS
16- uk;Dduiky;e
17- dUueaxye
18 eqYyUnze vkSj vkj.kh rkyqe esa lfEefyr lHkh xkaWo
213
In the book entitled “A manual of North Arcot District in the Presidency of Madras”, compiled by Arthur F. Cox (1881), it has been stated about the glorious tradition of silk weaving in the following words: - “There are upwards of a 1000 looms, distributed among 14 villages, and producing some 2,00,000 women’s clothes in a year worth about Rs.7, 50,000/-. The best fabrics are woven in Arani itself, where they are made of a mixture of silk and cotton and are much worne by more wealthy Brahmin Women”. In the “History of North Arcot District” by Vellore M. Gunasekaran, it has been observed with regard to the weaving of Arani Silk Saree, as “During the year 1920 A.D, the handloom weaving, having been made certain modifications by Karigiri Mouna Gurusamy, had been introduced in several villages of North Arcot District. Then the branch of silk weaving was established at Walajah and then at Arani”. The following documents have been produced in support of proof of origin. Manual – North Arcot District, Madras Presidency – Arthur F. Cox, M.C.S., 1881 Imperial Gazetteer of India – Provincial Series – Govt. Printing, Calcutta, 1908. Articles of The Hindu – dt.06.11.1999, dt.22.04.2005 North Arcot District History – M.Gunasekaran, Vellore. (J) Method of Production:
1. Raw materials Mulberry silk, which is drawn from the mulberry silkworm cocoons of CB Race of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, is being twisted so as to suit the preparation of Arani silk sarees and transferred into warp and weft. Warp – Twisted and dyed silk yarn 19 / 21 Deniers. Warp – Twisted and dyed silk yarn 20 / 22Deniers. Pure silver Zari coated with Gold. The percentage of the composition is as follows Gold ; 0.60% Silver : 57.00% Copper : 18.40% Silk : 24.00%
2. Warping and Sizing (Twisting) 19/21 Denier Silk twisted and prepared as Warp. 20/22 Denier silk twisted and prepared as Weft. To produce that Traditional Dobby variety of Arani silk sarees warp is prepared for 22 meters of length to make the total length 4 sarees consisting of 5540 threads in the Width.
214
vkbZ- ewyRo dk izek.k (,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k)
vkj.kh “kCn dk eryc gS unh }kjk vyadr xkWoA rfey esa vk# “kCn unh lwpd gS vkSj bl rjg ^vkj.kh^ “kCn unh }kjk “kksHkk;eku xkaWo dk vFkZ
nsrk gSa vkj.kh igqaWpus ls igys vki dks dbZ ufn;kaW ikj djuh gksxhA ;g
dLck viuh fof”k’V js”keh lkfM;ksa ds fy, izfln/k gSA bl laca/k esa
bEihfj;y xt+V vkWQ bf.M;k izksfofU”;y lhjht+] enzkl Hkkx 2 1908 esa
izdkf”kr esa fy[kk x;k gSA bl dLcs esa (vkj.kh) js”keh vkSj dikl ds cus oL=ksa dk ,d vPNk [kkl mn~;ksx py jgk gSA
^,d gtkj ls Hkh vf/kd dj/ks pkSng xkaWoksa esa gS vkSj 2]00]000 vkSjrksa ds diMs :i;s 7]50]000 ewY; ds rS;kj gksrs gSaA vkj.kh esa gh loksZRre diMs cus
tkrs gSA ;gkaW js”ke vkSj dikl fefJr diM+s rS;kj gksrs gS rFkk le`n~/k
czkg~e.k fL+=;kaW bUgsa igurh gS A
osYywj ,e xq.k”ks[kju }kjk fyf[kr ^mRrj vkdkZM ftys dk bfrgkl^
uked dfr esa vkj.kh ds js”keh lkfM;ksa dh cqukbZ ds ckjs esa fuEufyf[kr izdkj crk;k x;k gSA
^1920 bZloha ds nkSjku dkjhfxfj ekSu xq#Lokeh }kjk gFkdj/ksk cqukbZ esa dqN
vk”kks/ku mRrjvkdkZM ftys ds dbZ xkaWoksa esa yk;s x;sA fQj js”ke dh cqukbZ
dk dke igys okyktk esa vkSj ckn esa vkj.kh esa LFkkfir fd;k x;kA^^
ewyYo ds izek.k esa fuEufyf[kr dkxt+kr is”k fd;s x;s gS
eSuqvy & ukFkZ vkdkZV ftyk] enzkl izsflMsUlh vkFZjj ,Q dkWDl] ,elh,l
1881
bEihfj;y xstVhj vkWQ bafM;k & izksfofU”;y lhjht & xouZesaUV fizfUVax]
dksydRrk 1908 n fgUnw esa 6-11-1999] fn 22-4-2005
ukFkZ vkdkZM ftyk bfrgkl & ,e xq.k”ks[kju] osYywj
215
3. Degumming Warp and weft raw silk contains silk gum (sericin) which constitutes about 20% to 30% of its total weight. Unless the gum is completely removed, silk does not exhibit its characteristic luster, smoothness as well as softness and tends to dye unevently. The process of removing gum from silk is known as degumming, the term of “boiling off” is sometimes used for this process. The common method of removing gum from raw silk is to treat it in a hot solution of soap which is the best degumming agent. Soap removes silk-gum almost completely, whithout affecting the fibre and helps in keeping the impurities is suspension. The soap used for degumming should be of good quality and as neutral as possible. The presence of any appreciable quantity of free alkali in the degumming bath is undesirable, particularly when degumming silk as it is likely to weaken the fibre. Sometime both soap and soda ash are used for degumming silk. 4. Dyeing The warp and weft are dyed with necessary colours, let to dry and furnished for production.The de-gummed silk is dyed with required colour. To increase the colour fastness the dyed silk is dipped in Acetic Acid mixed water and let to dry. In view of this, the colour is not washed down in water, and eventually there is no pollution or helalth hazard. 5. Warp Preparation
The warp, which is dyed and furnished for production, before mounting to a loom, is subjected to warp preparation by weavers. The warp is tightly tethered to the wooden poles on either side of the venue, meant for warp preparation and the yarns cut are checked. Then the warp is dipped in porridge/ rich kanji mixed with water, let to dry to season them to endure the weaving and rolled into warp cylinder. The weavers would complete this work in about two hours. Three or four persons would do the work in streets or farms. 6. Warp Piecing The warp, which was prepared and rolled in the cylinder, is joined with the warp yarns already left after weaving in the read, by matching each filament. Generally, this would be done by a member of the weaver’s family. 7. Weaving
There are two types of looms in the Arani area 1-Pit Looms 2-Frame Looms. Mainly Arani dobby sarees are produced in the Pit looms. Korvai one side and double side with zari and silk border sarees are woven in the Frame looms, by utilizing jacquard boxes.The sarees are measuring length 5.50, 6.20, 8.25 Meters with a width of 117 cms.
216
ts- mRiknu dh rjhdk
1-dPph lkexzh
eycsjh flYd] eycsjh js”ke ds dhMksa ds fMEck ls vkgj.k fd;k tkrk gSa
;g rfeyukMq vkSj dukzVD ds lh ch jsl ds js”ke ds dhMksa ds fMEc gSa bUgsa
?kqeko fQjko }kjk] dlko fnyku }kjk vkj.kh js”ke dh lkfM;ksa ds rkus ckus cuk;s tkrs gSA
rkuk & ?kqeko fQjko fd;s x;s vkSJ jsaxu fd;s x;s js”keh lwr 15@21 Mhuk;j
dk
ckuk &^ ?kqeko fQjko fd;s x;s vkSj jaxu fd;s x;s js”keh lwr 20@21 Mhuk;j dk
fo”kqn~/k pkaWnh Lo.kZ ysfir dke esa yk;h tkrh FkhAA lek;ksx dk izfr”kr
fuEufyf[kr izdkj gS
Lo.kZ % 0-60 izfr”kr
pkaWnh % 57-00 izfr”kr
rkack % 18-40 izfr”kr
js”ke % 24-00 izfr”kr
2- ckuk cukuk vkSj vkdkj fu/kkZ fjr djuk (?kqeko fQjko )
19@21 Mhuk;j js”ke ?kqeko fQjko okyk rkus ds :i esa cuk;k x;k
20@22 chuk;j js”ke ?kqeko fQjko okyk ckus ds :i esa cuk;k x;k
ikjEifjd MkWch izdkj ds vkj.kh js”ke lkfM;ksa ds fy, rkuk 22 ehVj yEckbZ dk
rs;kj fd;k tkrk gS tks 5540 rUrq pkSM+kbZ pkj lkfM+;ksa dks cukus ds fy, fu;r
gS
3- MhxfEeax djuk
dPps js”ke ds rkus ckus esa xksan rRo (lsfjflu) gksrk gS tks dqy otu dh 20
izfr”kr ls 30 izfr”kr dk gksrk gSA xksan rro dks iwjh rjg gVkus ij gh js”ke
esa ped vk ldrh gS] lfpd.krh vk ldrh gSA enqy gksdj jaxu ds fy, rS;kj
gks ldrk gSA
217
Loom Accessories Reed: It is an important accessory through which the warp thread passes. Made out of either bamboo or steel, reed plays a major role in determining the texture of the fabric. The dimension varies according to the end product. Generally for saree, it is 50” wide and 4 cms in height. Ever inch is divided in to 60 dents through which the thread passes. Number of warp ends is based on this calculation only.
Healds: The warp in warp beam is brought to the weaver’s side through the headls in the reed. Traditionally, cotton healds were used. Now nylon healds are used for extended lifetime of the healds.
Jala: Jala is a design making tool which enables to place and weave motifs on the saree. The design is plotted in a graph sheet and it is related to the thread which carries the design on the loom warp threads when lifted. The design forms on the saree when the corresponding warp threads are lifted and weft is inserted. Design making in Jala is more laborious and has limited scope.
Jaquard: Jaquard boxes are indeed a boon to textile industry. While Jala has limited scope of designing, Jaquard boxes has unlimited scope. Minimum hooks in a Jaquard box are 120 Hooks. The Warp is connected to the hooks with the help of nylon threads. The plotted graph is converted as Jaquard cards. The card rests on the cylinder in the Jaquard box, thereby controlling the warp to lift according to the design.
Product Quality Control:
To get the high quality Arani silk sarees, each registered Co-operative Society is having one or two appraisers to check the sarees in all the following quality attributes:
1. Length and width of sarees.2. Number of ends and Number of picks 3.Design infrastructure.
4. Number of border ends of the sarees 5.Number of puttas 6.Selvedges. 7. Clean folding.
For the quality assurance of the pure silk used in the production of the quality parameters adopted for the “Silk Mark” by the Central Silk Board were followed. They included mainly a simple flame test, and a microscopic test to ascertain the purity of the fabric. It gives the results in seconds. If the fabric burns slowly leaving a black residue and smells like burnt hair, it is pure silk.
Water Quality Water Quality Test done at the Chemical Testing and Analytical Laboratory, Department of Industries and Commerce, Government of Tamil Nadu, Chennai shows the samples of river water and Bore well water which were used for Degumming, Bleaching, Dyeing, Washing, etc. having the pH in the normal range of 7.21 to 7.69. The electrical
218
js”ke ls xksan gVkus dh in~/kfr dks ge MhxfEeax dgrs gSaA js”ke dks xje
lkcqu ds lfEeJ.k esa fHkxksdj fudkyuk gh loksZRre rjhdk gSA lkcqu js”keh xksan
dks iwjh rjg gVkrk gS vkSj v”kqfn~/k;ksa dks vyx fuyfEcr dj nsrk gSA vPNs izdkj ds fo”kqn~/k :i esa rS;kj lkcqu dks gh viukuk pkfg;sA js”ke dks Mqcksu s
okys /kkjd esa vf/kd {kkjrRo gksuk vfiz; gS [kldj xksan gVkrs le; D;ksafd blls
js”ke dh rUrq det+ksj gks tkrh gSA dHkh dHkh lkcqu vkSj lksMk ,s”k nksuksa dks
MhxfEeax esa dke esa yk;k tkrk gSA
4- jaxu
rkusu ckus dks vko”;d jaxksa ls ljaxk tkrk gS] bls lq[kk;k tkrk gS vkSj
mRiknu ds fy,rS;kj fd;k tkrk gSA Mhxe (xksns “; x;s) fd;s x;s js”ke dk
okafNr jaxksa jesa jaxu fd;k tkrk gSA jax ds iDdiu dks lqfuf”pr djus ds fy, jxs x;s js”ke dksk ,flfVd vey fefJr ikuh esa fHkxks;k tkrk gS] mUgsa lhlu
fd;k tkrk gS rkfd os cqukbZ dks lek lds vkSJ fQj rkus dks csyukdkj yisVK
tkrk gSA cqudkj bl dke dks nks Z?kaVs esa iwjk djrs gSA rhu ;k pkj yksx bl dke
esa lMd ij ;k ckx esa yxrs gSaA
5- rkuk LFkkiu
esyukdkj rS;kj rkus dks iwoZ ls vof”k’V lwr ds lkFK tksMk tkrk gS
ftlesa izR;sd rRurq dks eSp fd;k tkrk gSA lekU; rFkk cqudkj ds ifjokj dk ,dO;fDR bl dke esa yxrk gSA
6- cqukbZ
vkj.kh {ks= esa nks izdkj ds dj/ks gSA 1- fiV dj/ks vkSj 2- Qzse dj/ksA fiV dj/ks esavkj.kh Mkch lkfM;kaW rS;kj dh tkrh gSA dksosSZ ,d ik”oZ vkSj nksgkjk
ik”oZ tjh o js”ke ds ckMZjokyh lkfM;ksa dks tkdkMZ isVh dke esa ykdV Qzse
dj/kksa esa cquk tkrk gSA ;s lkfM;kaW 5-50] 6-20 o 8-25 ehVj yEckbZ dh gksrh gS vkSj
pkSM+kbZ 117 lsUVhehVj gksrh gSA
dj/ks ds tksM
jhM % ;g ,d egRoiw.kZ tksMgSA blds tfj;s rkus dh rUrq tkrh gSA ;g yksgs dh
;k ckal dh cuk gksrh gSA olUr ds Vsd”pjp dks (cukoV dks) fu/kkZfjr djus esa
jhM dh egRoiw.kZ vnkdkjh gS vfUre mRikn ds vuqlkj vk;ke cnyrs gSA llkekU;rk lkfM;ksa ds fy, ;g 50^^ pkSMk vkSj pkj ls ehVj ÅaWpk gksrk gSA gj
219
conductivity of river water is low (0.39m/mhos) and within the permissible limit of less than 1.0. But the electrical conductivity of bore well water is very high (2.4 m/mhos) The total solids, total dissolved solids, total suspended solids, organic solids and the in-organic solids all are very high in the bore well water compared to river water. These attributes have led to high total hardness, calcium hardness and magnesium hardness in the bore well water. Similarly the alkalinity, chlorides and sulphates are also higher in the bore well water. The quality assurance for colour fastness, shining, and the texture of the silk fibre can be ensured by using the good quality water from the river Kamandala Naga Nathi.
(K) Uniqueness:
(1) Dobby varieties,double side borders,intricate designs,twisted yarn,specialized weaving in border designs and extensive zari work are the distinctive features of Arni silk sarees.
(2) ‘Arani Dobby’ sarees are prepared as plain in body and ‘Arani’ Seer used in pallu.
(3) In ‘Korvai’ one side sarees are prepared with a separate border with Jari design having weight up to 600 gm.
(4) Arani saree is light weight.
(L) Inspection body: A Quality Control body is being established by Department of Handlooms & Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu which is autonomous and consists of not less than ten members representing Central & State Government Organizations and Industries in order to control the quality and to maintain the quality of Arani Silks.
220
bap esa 60 MsUV gksrs gS ftuds t+fj;slwr tkrh gSA fdrus rkus ds Nksj gksaxs bldkl
fu/kkZj.k blhds }kjk fd;k tkrk gSA
ghYM (rkuk) dkj rkus ds MaMs esa jgusokyk rkuk cqudj ds ik”oZ esa yk;k tkrk gS
;s ghYM }kjk tk;k tkrk gSA ikjLifjd :i esa dikl ds ghYM dke esa yk;s tkr s
FksA vc ckbyhu ds ghYM dke esa yk;s tkrs gS rkfd rkukdkjksa dks vkkSJ vf/kd
dk;Zdky izkIr gksxkA
tkyk % tkyk fMt+kbZu cukus okyk midj.k gS ftlsl :ikdfr;ksa dks lkfM;ksa esa
fMt+kbu djds yxk;k tk ldrk gSA fMt+kbu ,d xzkQ “khV esa igys cuk;k
tkrk gS vkSj ;g fM+tkbu dks dj/ks esa ys tkusokys rUrq dh enn djrk gS tc
rkuk rUrqvksa dks Åij mBkuk tkrk gSA rkus ckus esa fMt+kbu ds rUrq dks tksMk tkrk gSA tkyk esa fMt+kbu cukuk cgqr gh Jelkg; gS vkSJ bldh lEHkkouk,aW Hkh
lhfer gSA
tkdkMZ
oL= mn~;ksx ds fy, tkdkMZ ckDl ,dojnku gSA tkyk esa fMtkbrksa dh cl
lhfer laHkkouk,aW gS ij tkdkMZ lEHkkouk,aW dkQh foLrr gSA tkdkMZ ckDl esa
fuEure 120 [kaWVs gksaxsA ukbyksu FkzsMksa ds tfj;s rkus dks [kwaWVksa ds lkFk tksMk
tkrkgSA xzkQ esa cuk;k x;k fMt+kbu dks tkdkMZ dkMksZa esa cny fn;k tkrk gSA tkdkMZ cDlk esa flfy.Mj ij dkMZ fVdk jgrk gS vkSj bl rjg rkus dks fMt+kbu
ds eqrkfcd rkus dks mBk;k tk ldrk gSA
mRikn xq.koRrk fu;U=.k
mPp dksfV ds vkj.kh js”keh lkfM;ksW ikus ds fy, izR;sd iathdr lgdkjh
lfefr esa ,d ;k nks ewY;kadu vf/kdkjh gksrs gS tks lkfM;ksa dh fuEufyf[kr
xq.kfoRrkvksa dks ewY;kadu djrs gS
1- lkfM;ksa dh yEckbZ pkSMkbZ
2- fdrus Nksj vkSj fdrus fid
3- vfHkdYi (fMtkbu) vUrLlLprk 4- lkfM;ksa ds czfM Nksj dh la[;k
5- fdrus iV~Vs gS
6- LokRed Nksj 7- Bhd orjg dk QksfYMax
221
xq.koRrk vk/kkj rRoksa ij mRikfnr js”keh lkfM;ksa dh xcq. koRrk dks vk”oLr dj
ysus ds fy, dsUnzh; flYd cksMZ ds ^flYd ekxZ ^ &(js”ke vdsu) dke esa yk;k
tkrk gSA ;g,d ljy Toyk (flafiy Qyse) ijh{k.k o lwjik.kqoh{k.k ;a= }kjk
ijh{k.kk ls fd;k tkrk gS ftlls oL= dh fo”kqfn~/k dk izek.ku gks ldsA dqN gh iyksa esa ifj.kke vk tkrk gS vxj oL= /khjs /khjs tyrk gS vkSj dky vo”ks’k
fudyrk gS rFkk tys ds”k dh xU/k vkrh gS rks og “kqn~/k js”ke gSA
tykRed xq.koRrk
rfeyukMq ljdkj psUubZ ds mn~;ksx o okf.kT; foHkkx ds jklk;fud ijh{k.k
o fo”ys’k.k iz;ksx “kkyk esa tykRed xq.koRrk ijh{k.k fd;k tkrk gSA unh ty o
dq,aW ds ty nksuksa MhxfEeax xksan gVkus ds dke esa fy;s tkrs gSaA ;s Cyhfpax] jaxu
/kqykbZ oxSjg ds dkeksa es aHkh iz;ksx esa yk;k tkrk gSA lkekU; 7-21 ls 7-69 jsat e s
a;g dke fd;k tkrk gS aunh ds ikuh dks fctyh lokgdRo de gksrk gSa (0-39 ,d@,d ,p vks ,l) vkSj vuqer lhek 1-0 ls de jgrk gSA ij dq,aW dh ikuh
dh lokgdRo cgqr ÅaWpk gksrk gS (2-4 ,e@,e ,p vks ,l)
dqy Bksl] dqy /kqys gq, Bksl dqy fuyfEcr Bksl dkcZfud Bksl vkSj
vdkcZfud Bksl vkfn dq, ds ikuh esa unh ds ikuh dh rqyuk esa vf/kd jgrk gSA
bu fufgr xq.kksa ds dkj.k dqy mPp dMkiu dSfY”;e dMkiu vkSj
eSXuhf”k;e dMkiu dq,aW ds ikuh esa gksrk gSA
blh rjg {kkj rRo] DyksjkbV vkSj lYQsV Hkh dq,aW dh ikuh esa vf/kd
iDds jax] ped vkSj js”keh lwr dh VsDLpj vkfn dksk unh de.My u, ds
loZPN ty ds mi;skx ls c<k;k tk ldrk gSA
d- oSf”k’V~;
1- MkWch izdkj ds nksgjs ik”oZokys o uQh fMt+kbu ls ;qDr] ?kqeko
fQjkonkj rUrq fo”ks’khdr cqukbZ tks ckMZj ds fMt+kbuksa esa Li’V gS vkSJ
dkQH iSekus ij t+jh dh dke vkfn vkj.kh js”keh lkfM;ksa dh fo”ks’krk
gSA
2- ^vkj.kh MkWch^ Dysoj esa ljy gksrs gS vkSJ iYyw ^vkj.kh^ [khj gksrh gS
222
3- dksosZ ,d ik”oZokyh lkfM;ksa esa vyx ckMZj t+jh ds fMt+kbu ds lkFk
gksrk gS vkSj bldk otu 600 xzke rd gksrk gS
4- vkj.khk lkfM;kaW gYds otu9 dh gS
,y- fujh{k.k ny
rfeyukMq ljdkj ds gFkdj/ks o oL= foHkkx esa ,d xq.koRrk fu;U=.k
fudkl dks LFkkfir fd;k gSA ;g ,d Lok;Rr fudk; gS vkSj blesa de ls de
nl lnL; gksrs gSA ;s lnL; dsUnz ljdkj vkSj jkT; ljdkj ds laxBuksa vkSj
mn~;ksxksa }kjk ukfer gksrs gS rkfd xq.koRrk ij fuxjkuh j[k lds vkSj ^vkj.kh js”ke^ ds ij pe dks cqyUn j[k ldsA
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228
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230
fdghgfdgfdgg
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- 1 -
93 dksob dksjk dikl 24 o
25
oL= vkSj oL= eky
94 lsye js'ke 24 o
25
oL= vkSj oL= eky
95 bZ-vkbZ- peM+k 18 peM+k
96 ratkowj xqfM+;k 28 ratkowj xqfM+;k ¼f[kykSuk½
- 1 -
93 dksob dksjk dikl 24 o
25
oL= vkSj oL= eky
94 lsye js'ke 24 o
25
oL= vkSj oL= eky
95 bZ-vkbZ- peM+k 18 peM+k
96 ratkowj xqfM+;k 28 ratkowj xqfM+;k ¼f[kykSuk½
