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8/19/2019 GKE (Chinese Clothing)
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History Of ChineseHistory Of Chinese
ClothingClothing
Teacher: Teacher: 趙琪芬 趙琪芬 (Laura Chao)(Laura Chao)Students:Students: 廖元秀廖元秀
蔡伯榮蔡伯榮 劉懿庭劉懿庭
許婷姿許婷姿
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先秦先秦 %re-&in%re-&in'uring the Shang and'uring the Shang and
hou 'ynasties !eo!lehou 'ynasties !eo!lewore a suit of clotheswore a suit of clotheswhich consisted of a longwhich consisted of a longto! !art with a $elt aroundto! !art with a $elt around
the waist and a lower !art.the waist and a lower !art. The to! !art came in #e The to! !art came in #e!rimary colors: $lue red!rimary colors: $lue redyellow white and $lac*. +tyellow white and $lac*. +thad short slee#es with ahad short slee#es with a
hem that dangled to thehem that dangled to the*nees. ,lso the hems of*nees. ,lso the hems ofthe nec* and slee#esthe nec* and slee#eswould $e $eautifullywould $e $eautifullyem$roidered.em$roidered.
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'uring war time'uring war timemore con#enientmore con#enientclothes were neededclothes were neededso a new ty!e ofso a new ty!e ofclothing came intoclothing came into$eing. The long to!$eing. The long to!
!art was re!laced with!art was re!laced witha short form. Thea short form. The
!eo!le $egan to wear!eo!le $egan to weartrousers and $ootstrousers and $ootswhich made it easierwhich made it easierto mo#e in com$at.to mo#e in com$at.
This new ty!e of This new ty!e ofclothing was !o!ularclothing was !o!ular
at that time.at that time.
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漢朝漢朝 Han 'ynastyHan 'ynasty%eo!le in the%eo!le in the
estern Han 'ynastyestern Han 'ynasty
used four seasons andused four seasons and
solar terms to determinesolar terms to determine
the colors of theirthe colors of theirclothing. For instanceclothing. For instance
when s!ring came theywhen s!ring came theydressed in $lue. omendressed in $lue. omen
in the Han 'ynastyin the Han 'ynastydressed themsel#es indressed themsel#es inan outt that consistedan outt that consistedof a $louse and a s*irt.of a $louse and a s*irt.
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The The Han 'ynastyHan 'ynastywas !owerful and itswas !owerful and itseconomy was steady soeconomy was steady so
its !eo!le had higherits !eo!le had higherdemands in ma*e-u!demands in ma*e-u!and clothing.and clothing.eanwhile the famouseanwhile the famousSil* /oad started andSil* /oad started and
!romoted the!romoted theinterchange $etweeninterchange $etweenChinese and esternChinese and esterncultures. Therefore sil*cultures. Therefore sil*s!read around the worlds!read around the world
through the Sil* /oadthrough the Sil* /oadand the western style inand the western style inclothing also $egan toclothing also $egan toa0ect the Chinese.a0ect the Chinese. Through this Through this
assimilation new trendsassimilation new trendsemerged.emerged.
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魏晉南北朝魏晉南北朝
ei 1in 2orthern and Southernei 1in 2orthern and Southern
dynastiesdynasties The ei 1in 2orthern The ei 1in 2orthernand Southern 'ynastiesand Southern 'ynastieswere not sta$le. +n factwere not sta$le. +n fact
the society was in greatthe society was in greatturmoil. Therefore theturmoil. Therefore theintellectuals a#oidedintellectuals a#oided!olitics $ut resorted to!olitics $ut resorted tothe !hiloso!hies ofthe !hiloso!hies of
Taoism and 3uddhism Taoism and 3uddhismwhich a0ected theirwhich a0ected theirclothing. They !referredclothing. They !referredto wear loose clothesto wear loose clothes
mainly in white.mainly in white.
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'uring this'uring this
!eriod men li*ed!eriod men li*ed
to wear headto wear head
decorations in lightdecorations in light
color. ,s for thecolor. ,s for the
intellectuals theyintellectuals theywould use s4uare-would use s4uare-
sha!ed cloth to 5sha!ed cloth to 5
and co#er theirand co#er their
hairstyle at thehairstyle at thesame time.same time.
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omen6somen6sclothing followed aclothing followed a
similar trend. Theysimilar trend. Theyes!ecially li*ed toes!ecially li*ed towear dresses withwear dresses withloose $elts aroundloose $elts around
the waist andthe waist and!ieces of triangle-!ieces of triangle-sha!ed cloth on thesha!ed cloth on the$ac* of the s*irt.$ac* of the s*irt.
They wanted to They wanted tocreate the image ofcreate the image ofa $ird 7ying whena $ird 7ying whenthey wal*ed.they wal*ed.
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+t was until the 2orthern and+t was until the 2orthern and
Southern dynasties that women6sSouthern dynasties that women6sclothes which were in7uenced $yclothes which were in7uenced $y
the 2orthern Chinese $ecamethe 2orthern Chinese $ecame
more light and con#enient than themore light and con#enient than theclothing of Han dynasty.clothing of Han dynasty.
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隋唐隋唐 Tang 'ynasty Tang 'ynasty
The Tang The Tang'ynasty was a great'ynasty was a great
era where theera where the
fre4uent interchangefre4uent interchange
of cultures $etweenof cultures $etweenthe 8ast and thethe 8ast and the
est ha!!enedest ha!!ened
which transformedwhich transformed
the traditionalthe traditional
clothes into a $rand-clothes into a $rand-
new trend.new trend.
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ith the de#elo!ment ofith the de#elo!ment of
te5tile more slight and softte5tile more slight and soft
cloth had $een in#entedcloth had $een in#entedand thus ga#e moreand thus ga#e more
change in clothes. Thechange in clothes. The
characteristic of this era ischaracteristic of this era islow-cu! narrow slee#elow-cu! narrow slee#e
ca!e clothes of womenca!e clothes of women
disguise as men high-disguise as men high-
waist tight-clothes ing-waist tight-clothes ing- 9i( 9i(明衣明衣 ) the clothes of) the clothes of
other nationality (other nationality (胡服胡服 ).).
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omen usuallyomen usually
wore dresses with awore dresses with a
$elt fastened a$o#e$elt fastened a$o#ethe $reast. The colorsthe $reast. The colorsof dresses mostlyof dresses mostlycame in red !ur!lecame in red !ur!le
yellow and green. Theyellow and green. Thedress would contain adress would contain alow-cut $odice with alow-cut $odice with aca!e $ehind. 3esidesca!e $ehind. 3esideswomen would !ut onwomen would !ut on
an additional dressan additional dressmade of trans!arentmade of trans!arentsil*. The *ind of dresssil*. The *ind of dressused to $e underwearused to $e underwear
$efore the Tang$efore the Tang
dynasty.dynasty.
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宋朝宋朝 Song 'ynastySong 'ynasty
This was the time This was the timefor the emergence of lifor the emergence of li5ue a school of5ue a school ofConfucianism inConfucianism inidealistic !hiloso!hy.idealistic !hiloso!hy.
,0ected $y the,0ected $y thethoughts the clothes ofthoughts the clothes ofSong dynasty wereSong dynasty wereusually !lain.usually !lain.
ost of #estmentsost of #estmentswere $ig slee#e. Theywere $ig slee#e. Theyused di0erent colors ofused di0erent colors ofclothes to tell theirclothes to tell theirstatus.status.
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omen6s clothes ofomen6s clothes ofSong dynasty were #erySong dynasty were #ery
similar to those of Hansimilar to those of Han
dynasty. They were longdynasty. They were longdresses with narrowdresses with narrow
slee#es. ,dditionallyslee#es. ,dditionally
women would !ut on awomen would !ut on a
long-slee#ed.long-slee#ed.
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,!art from,!art fromdresses women indresses women in
Song dynasty woreSong dynasty wore!ants as well. There!ants as well. Therewas a s!ecial customwas a s!ecial customof foot-$inding atof foot-$inding atthat time. The Songthat time. The Song
!eo!le considered!eo!le consideredfoot-$inding a sym$olfoot-$inding a sym$olof $eauty andof $eauty andelegance. Thereforeelegance. Therefore
women would wearwomen would wear!ants shorter than!ants shorter thantheir legs to e5!osetheir legs to e5!osetheir $ound feet totheir $ound feet to
catch !eo!le6s eyes.catch !eo!le6s eyes.
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元朝元朝 9uan 'ynasty 9uan 'ynasty
The 9uan 'ynasty was The 9uan 'ynasty wasin7uenced $y the Hanin7uenced $y the Hannationality. Clothing hadnationality. Clothing had$ecome more and more$ecome more and moregorgeous and featured ongorgeous and featured onro$e. 3ecause of ongolro$e. 3ecause of ongol
nationality6s custom mennationality6s custom menin that time li*ed to growin that time li*ed to grow!laited hair and wear!laited hair and wearearring. They wore a wide-earring. They wore a wide-$rimmed rain hat in$rimmed rain hat insummer while wore fursummer while wore fur
coat leather $oot andcoat leather $oot andleather hat in winter. anyleather hat in winter. anyof mandarin6s clothes wereof mandarin6s clothes werero$e had narrow slee#es.ro$e had narrow slee#es.
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omen of ongol clothesomen of ongol clotheswere similar to men6s $utwere similar to men6s $uttheir colors were di0erent.their colors were di0erent.%lenty of women6s clothes%lenty of women6s clotheswerewere 左 左 and had tight andand had tight andnarrow slee#es. hen womennarrow slee#es. hen womenwore a ro$e they also worewore a ro$e they also wore!ants and used a $and to tie!ants and used a $and to tie
on waist. +nstead women ofon waist. +nstead women ofHan nationality featured onHan nationality featured on !!"" . Their clothes were. Their clothes were # #and loose or narrow slee#es.and loose or narrow slee#es.
They wore long !ants in the They wore long !ants in the
!leated s*irt and wore!leated s*irt and woreshallow-$ottom shoes. Theshallow-$ottom shoes. Therich women of ongolrich women of ongolnationality had a s!ecial-nationality had a s!ecial-sha!ed hat which was tall andsha!ed hat which was tall and
long.long.
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明朝明朝 ing 'ynastying 'ynasty
en in inen in in
'ynasty wore long'ynasty wore long
ro$es.ro$es.
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omen in in'ynasty wore shirt($ ) coat %& (a *ind of
!laid) and s*irt. Theirclothes were feat $ody.
They "ust could wear lightcolor $ut couldn6t weardee! red and yellow.Howe#er clothes of ladieswere t and slemder
such as long coat andlong s*irt. They wouldwear !leated s*irt long#est and shawl.
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'朝'朝 &ing 'ynasty&ing 'ynasty
The trait of clothing of The trait of clothing of&ing 'ynasty were retaining&ing 'ynasty were retainingand a$sor$ing Hanand a$sor$ing Hannationality and anchu6snationality and anchu6scustom. en of &ingcustom. en of &ing
'ynasty6s mainly clothes'ynasty6s mainly clotheswere ro$e "ac*et(were ro$e "ac*et(()() ) and) and#est(#est((*(* ) . 3ecause) . 3ecauseanchu li*ed riding-shootanchu li*ed riding-shoottheir slee#es of ro$e weretheir slee#es of ro$e wereloo*ed li*e a horse6s hoof.loo*ed li*e a horse6s hoof.
)
) had $een wore out of thehad $een wore out of thero$e whether men orro$e whether men orwomen could wear it. Onwomen could wear it. Onthe #est(the #est((*(* ) were much) were muchadornment of colorfuladornment of colorfulem$roider.em$roider.
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omen of &ingomen of &ing'ynasty li*ed the'ynasty li*ed the
slender gure. Theyslender gure. Theyoften wore aoften wore acheongsam com$ed thecheongsam com$ed thechignon on hair 7atchignon on hair 7atfashioned !ut an u!rightfashioned !ut an u!right$oard which articial$oard which articial
7owers were sewed on7owers were sewed onand wore tall-$ottomedand wore tall-$ottomedshoes. The rich womenshoes. The rich womenof &ing 'ynasty wouldof &ing 'ynasty wouldinlay "adeite coralinlay "adeite coral!earls or white "ade on!earls or white "ade on
the adornment whichthe adornment whichwas inserted on thewas inserted on thechignon and wore nailchignon and wore nailcoats made of "ewel tocoats made of "ewel to!rotect their ngernail.!rotect their ngernail.
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2owadays2owadays+,+, hen the in-Hai(hen the in-Hai(--
.. ) re#olution ha!!ened in) re#olution ha!!ened in;<;; three demands;<;; three demandscame from the !eo!le:came from the !eo!le:a$olishing the monarchya$olishing the monarchycutting o0 the $raidcutting o0 the $raid
changing the traditionalchanging the traditionalclothes into the new ones.clothes into the new ones.'uring that time men'uring that time men$egan to wear unlined$egan to wear unlinedu!!er garments andu!!er garments and
"ac*ets. The young !eo!le "ac*ets. The young !eo!leusually wore western-styleusually wore western-styleclothes. hong-Shan(clothes. hong-Shan(/0/0 ))style clothes also $ecamestyle clothes also $ecamea trend for the Chinesea trend for the Chinese
during the reformation.during the reformation.
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hong-Shan(hong-Shan( /0/0 ) style) styleclothes a!!eared after theclothes a!!eared after thein-Hai re#olution. This newin-Hai re#olution. This newstyle com$ines thestyle com$ines thetraditional characteristicstraditional characteristicswith the western clothes. +twith the western clothes. +tfeatures a chin* and afeatures a chin* and awaist$and on the $ac*side.waist$and on the $ac*side.
3esides there are always3esides there are alwaysnine $uttons on the front !artnine $uttons on the front !artof the garment and folds onof the garment and folds onthe !oc*ets. The hong-the !oc*ets. The hong-Shan(Shan(/0/0 ) style has its) style has itss!ecial !olitically sym$olics!ecial !olitically sym$olic
meaning. The #e !oc*etsmeaning. The #e !oc*etsone of which is inside theone of which is inside thegarment re!resent the #egarment re!resent the #econstitutional !rinci!les $yconstitutional !rinci!les $y'r. Sun 9e-Shan ('r. Sun 9e-Shan (123123 ))44
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Other 'ecorationsOther 'ecorations
;. Foot-$inding;. Foot-$inding=.=. 56 56 'ang'ang
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Foot-$indingFoot-$inding7878 Foot-$inding was a s!ecial *ind of ChineseFoot-$inding was a s!ecial *ind of Chinese
custom !re#ailing in the early =>th century.custom !re#ailing in the early =>th century.,t that time women had to use a long !iece,t that time women had to use a long !ieceof cloth to tie their feet since childhood. Theyof cloth to tie their feet since childhood. They
wanted to sto! the growing of the feet forwanted to sto! the growing of the feet forsmaller feet were thought more attracti#e tosmaller feet were thought more attracti#e tomen. omen with $ound-feet could not wal*men. omen with $ound-feet could not wal*!ro!erly $ut had to wal* on their heels. ,fter!ro!erly $ut had to wal* on their heels. ,fter
the end of the Chin 'ynasty more and morethe end of the Chin 'ynasty more and more!eo!le started to consider the food-$inding a!eo!le started to consider the food-$inding a*ind of re!ression for women and then the*ind of re!ression for women and then theold custom has $een $anned legally now.old custom has $een $anned legally now.
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5656 'ang'ang
Dang (6 ) is also a kind of ornament worn on the foreheadby women as a decoration. Due to its various components,
Dang is colorful. For example, a golden one is usually made of
foil. Besides, the pictures on Dang may determine its color as
well. here is a popular one, named !ui Dang (96 ). "t got its
name from the picture with bird#s feather made of green
emerald.
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The s!ecial glue used to !aste the The s!ecial glue used to !aste the
'ang was called Ho-Chiao('ang was called Ho-Chiao( :;:; ).).
Legend has it that the s!ecial glue isLegend has it that the s!ecial glue is
made of sh !neumatocysts. henmade of sh !neumatocysts. hen
women wanted to !eel the 'ang o0women wanted to !eel the 'ang o0rst they should $low it on and a!!lyrst they should $low it on and a!!ly
a little sali#a on it and then the gluea little sali#a on it and then the glue
may dissol#e. Otherwise they couldmay dissol#e. Otherwise they could
use hot water to !at on their foreheaduse hot water to !at on their forehead
and then the glue could come o0.and then the glue could come o0.
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/eferences/eferences
htt!:??h*.cl=>>>.com?@?fashion?cultuhtt!:??h*.cl=>>>.com?@?fashion?cultu
re?wen;.shtmlre?wen;.shtml
htt!:??h*.cl=>>>.com?@?fashion?cultuhtt!:??h*.cl=>>>.com?@?fashion?culture?wen;A<.shtmlre?wen;A<.shtml
htt!:??edu.ocac.go#.tw?culture?chinehtt!:??edu.ocac.go#.tw?culture?chine
se?culAchculture?#od=<html?#od=<A><.se?culAchculture?#od=<html?#od=<A><.htmhtm
htt!:??h*.geocities.com?#innelung?htt!:??h*.geocities.com?#innelung?