Gilbert & Gaillard Magazine, October Issue

Contents

CONTENTS

COLUMNS

GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 3

12-13LONDON LIFE

14-15NEWS

54-55 WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

• Oriane Mazeau - Château de

Toutigeac

56-57 FAMILY BUSINESS

• Clément Fayat of Vignobles Fayat

71-72NEW YORK LIFE

79-80FAMILY BUSINESS

• Benziger Family Winery,

Sonoma Mountain

98-99ORGANIC NEWS

• Replacing plant

protection products

106-107WINE QUOTATIONS

• Old Champagnes:

a surprising tasting experience

108-111 STARS AND WINE

• Sigourney Weaver & John Lasseter

GILBERT & GAILLARD

THE WORLDWIDE WINE SIGNATURE

SUBSCRIPTIONS2 YEARS 43.90 € - 1 YEAR 23.60 €

SEE PAGE 85

COVER © ALBO - FOTOLIA

GILBERT & GAILLARD

NEXT ISSUE OUT

WINTER 2011

16 108

54

16-19BORDEAUX LIFE

48-53QUALITY FACTORS• Sparkling wine: bubbling over with success

4 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011

CONTENTS

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96

THIS MAGAZINEIS PRINTED ON RECYCLABLE

PAPER

58-63 HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

• The incredible diversity of Cognac

64-70 REGION

• The United States:

a leading global wine producer

73-78 TRAVEL

• Fighting the cold in Colorado

81-87HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

• Friuli: perfectionism in a bottle

88-94 REGION

• Andalusia: dazzling in more

ways than one

96-97 WINE AND FOOD

• Gilles Goujon: childhood memories

113-114 RECOMMENDED WINES

20-41 COVER STORY

• Our gold medal wines

• Burgundy's excellence

• Rated wines 90/100 and more

42-47 REGION

• The mysterious wines

of South West France

Don't miss out!

Weare delighted to present the 2012 Gilbert & Gaillard Guide des Vins. All the

wines featured have been tasted using the same protocol, ensuring

a rigorous, impartial selection. The samples sent by producers are blind

tasted by Gilbert & Gaillard and their team in the quiet seclusion of a tasting room. A 100

point scale is employed for utmost accuracy. There is no question of marathon tastings as

no more than 10-15 samples are tasted per session to maintain fair judgement and analysis.

7,000 wines have been selected, along with commentaries, tasting notes and

recommendations on how to serve them. All the classed growths and most prestigious

wines are featured, but there are also many smaller, lesser-known wine growers to

discover too. Each wine growing region is represented, together with a detailed map and every appellation is closely analysed,

with commentaries. The Gilbert & Gaillard Guide des Vins is the essential guide to discovering european wines.

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2012 NEWFRENCH EDITION

FRANÇOIS GILBERT


In 2010, the United States - a major wine producerand consumer country - overtook France to become the

world’s leading wine market with volume sales of 330

million cases. In 2011, it also became the world’s largest

consumer country. A population of over 310 million,

including 200 million potential consumers (over the age

of 21) is driving the wine market and has fuelled growth

for several years. French and European wines are in an

excellent position to capture growth as the population is

getting younger. Although France still lags behind Italy

and Australia in volume terms, it ranks first for value

sales. The retail price of imported wine in the United

States is on average 3.5 times the ex-cellar price because

of the country’s specific “three tier” distribution system.

Theoretically, a wine must go through three compulsory

stages - the importer, distributor and retailer - to reach the

end consumer. It is therefore essential to find the right

representative. A few tips can save both time and money.

For instance, contacting an import distributor: as a

recipient and shipper of wines, he can reduce costs and

be proactive with new customers ordering small

quantities because the wine is already on American soil.

Despite an archaic distribution system, a strong Euro

against the dollar and the continued global recession,

French and European wines continue to go from strength

to strength in the US, both in the volume segments

(retail prices under $15) and at the top-end of the market.

François GilbertEditorial director

www.gilbertgaillard.com

Successfully exporting to the US

PHILIPPE GAILLARD


For the last 25 years, we have been tasting

and scoring wines daily. To do this, we have devised a

very efficient scoring system that only judges a wine’s

inherent qualities: balance, finesse, aromatic intensity,

complexity, length, potential… After scoring, we award

a gold medal to wines with the highest marks so that

their quality can be conveyed to consumers. We are the

only French magazine to do this internationally, along

with two American and one English publication.

To broaden our scope and respond to real demand,

we have been working for several months on a slightly

different scoring system that takes into account the

value for money aspect, a core consumer concern at

the moment. This has led us to create a new, yet

complementary medal concept called “Smart Buy”

which is awarded irrespective of whether a wine has

a gold medal. Our ambition is to showcase new talent

and reward a good or very good wine with a

reasonable price tag of under 7 € ($10).

Philippe GaillardEditorial director


An innovative medal


SYLVAIN PATARDSYLVAIN PATARD


An annual awards list is an opportunity to reveal

the best wines we have tasted throughout the year.

It features wines scoring 90/100 and over. The 2011 list is

of an extremely high standard and comprises 400 wines

from all over France. Most of the Bordeaux wines are from

2008, a refined, nicely-crafted vintage though there are

some nice surprises amongst the 2007s that have matured

well. Burgundy is the triumphant winner however of this

year’s selection with almost 70 wines and the highest

scores (98 and 97/100, see our presentation from pages

22 to 27). Languedoc-Roussillon put on an impressive

showing too with 18 wines under the Languedoc

appellation. There is also a wonderful range of wines

from the Rhône and a surprise appearance by two generic

Côtes du Rhône and four Costières de Nîmes wines.

We also wanted to showcase a selection of wines that

warrant your attention (page 20-21) but are too numerous

to be mentioned individually. All of these wines were

tasted by our tasting panel on our premises using specific

procedures. Their score makes them eligible for a Gilbert

& Gaillard gold medal. This is the ultimate accolade

and a sure-fire way for consumers to recognise a

superior quality wine. And don’t forget, all the wines

we taste can be accessed at any time via our website

www.gilbertgaillard.com or on your smartphone.

Sylvain PatardEditor in chief

A ruthlessselection!

10th edit ion20, 21 and 22 February 2012

��Montpel l ier - France

Reserved for professionals

www.vinisud.com

The International Exhibitionof Mediterranean Wines and Spirits


LONDON LIFE

London al-fresco: the British tend to live a sheltered existence.Sheltered, that is, from the natural elements that seem to assail usfor 12 months a year. Every now and again however, the sun staysout just long enough for us to enjoy a taste of the great outdoors.

Mark’s favourite venues

AN AL-FRESCO TASTING EVENT

The Natural Wine Fair 15th - 17th May 2011 at Borough Marketwww.thenaturalwinefair.com

Just as the British wine trade was gatheringat the London International Wine Fair,another tasting was taking place over atBorough Market. The inaugural NaturalWine Fair was different for three reasons.First of all, it was the largest gathering ofnatural, organic and biodynamic wine-

makers that has ever happened on this sideof the channel. Secondly, it was open tothe public all day on the Sunday, giving thecity’s burgeoning group of natural wineenthusiasts a chance to meet their vinousheroes. Finally, the event was (somewhatbravely) an open air affair.

The al-fresco setting added to theambience and enhanced the ‘naturalness’of the event. It was undoubtedly the mostinteresting tasting I have attended this yearand the opportunity to meet vignerons likeJean Foillard, Dario Princic and ThierryPuzelat was a real treat.

Mark Andrew

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The Natural Wine Fai r

The Natural Wine Fai r

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GREAT SEAFOOD BY THE RIVER

River Café Thames Wharf, Rainville RoadLondon W6 9HATel. +44 (0)207 386 4200 www.rivercafe.co.uk

With space at such a premium and rain sucha constant threat in London, it is harder thanyou may think to find a top notch restaurantwith outdoor space. The River Café, next tothe Thames in a leafy corner of Fulham, isperhaps the best of this rare breed.

The top priority at River Café is the food.Truly superb seafood dishes are the mainstayof the menu, but with an emphasis on letting

LONDON LIFE


WONDERFUL WINES BY

TOWER BRIDGE

Le Pont de la Tour 36D Shad ThamesLondon SE1 2YETel. +44 (0)207 403 8403 www.lepontdelatour.co.uk

With a stunning view over London’s iconicTower Bridge, Le Pont de la Tour is arestaurant, bar and a wine merchant allrolled into one and it is a real pleasure tovisit a place where wine takes centre stage.On meeting Nicolas Clerc (wine managerand Master Sommelier) it is clear that hisknowledge and passion are the driving forcebehind their superb list, a labour of lovethat stretches to nearly 100 pages!

After enjoying some light food from the barmenu (excellent charcuterie and paté decampagne), I opted for a glass of LaurentVaillé’s delicious 2004 Grange des Pèresrouge (£18.50). In addition to the greatview, the lively ambience was furtherenriched by the buzz of an after-work crowdand a live jazz pianist. If you are staying inthis part of town, it is worth rememberingthat Le Pont also boasts one of the capital’sbest wine shops (not to mention a greatfood store too).

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Le Pont de la Tour

River Café

the ingredients shine rather than over-complicating things. This doesn’t mean thatthe dishes lack complexity - far from it. Mystarter of ‘Ravioli con Granchio’ was a riot offlavours, with chilli, fennel and lemonworking in tandem with delicious Devoncrab. I followed this with a truly spectaculardish of monkfish and scallops and washedthe lot down with a crisp bottle ofVermentino di Gallura by CantinaGiogantinu (£42.00). I love the perfumed liftand freshness of Vermentino when eatingseafood and Giogantinu’s example issensational value.

Eating at the River Café is never cheap (thislunch ended up at £75 per person), but thesheer quality of the food, service andriverside setting make it worth every penny.

NAPA VALLEY IN PARIS

The US Ambassador to France, CharlesH. Rivkin, welcomed Napa Valley winegrowers on June 16th in Paris for a winetasting and seminar on the region, itshistory and its wines, some of which areAmerica’s most acclaimed. Producers atthe event included Beaucanon Estate,Inglenook Estate, St Supéry Vineyardsand Stag’s Leap.

HOSPICES DE BEAUNE ONTHE INTERNET

Albert Bichot is offering wine loversaround the world the chance to buyfutures of the 2011 vintage from themythical Hospices de Beaune estate online. This novel way of democratising theHospices de Beaune auction (November21st 2011) via the www.hospices-beaune.com website has been successfulsince 2009 for Albert Bichot. The firmwas founded in 1831 and for the pastfifteen years has been the auction’sleading buyer. Under the guidance ofJean-David Camus, Burgundy winelovers will be able to buy Hospices deBeaune 2011 futures in just a few clicks.They can either buy an entire cask (288bottles) or one of the cuvées selected byAlbert Bichot with a minimum purchaseof just six bottles.

BEAUTY TAKES CENTRE STAGE

A private viewing of the NataliaSklenarikova exhibition was held atChampagne Lanson on August 26th.Natalia Sklenarikova’s works offer botha modern and nostalgic expression ofher dual culture. The Paris-based lawyeris a keen photographer and sister of theSlovakian model Adriana Karembeu.The two Vintage 2011 patrons joinedstaff the following day in harvesting thegrapes at Clos Lanson where Lansonchairman Philippe Baijot announcedthat a new Clos Lanson cuvée would bereleased in 2012. The new release will beoak aged and made from Chardonnaygrown within the walls of ChampagneLanson itself.


NEWS

Château de PennautierFût 2007

Cabardès A.C.

M. DavidCAVAVIN ANGERS

25, rue Saumuroise49000 - ANGERS

Tel.: +33 (0)2 41 68 41 32

Clos de NeuillySpelty 2007

Chinon A.C.

M. PeraisCAVAVIN REDON

Rue Marcel QuerciaZA de Cotard

35600 - REDON Tel.: +33 (0)2 99 71 25 62

In every issue, see whichwinemakers are the gold

medal winners

étienne BOIVINFranchise Development Manager

7.90 €*

10.90 €*

14.50 €*

* Retail price including sales tax

Château Bouscassé2006

Madiran A.C.

M. et Mme NicolaiCAVAVIN TOULOUSE

83, AVENUE JEAN RIEUX31500 - TOULOUSE

Tel.: +33 (0)5 61 34 23 27

Château Tourde Grenet 2007

Lussac Saint-Émilion A.C.

M. LibaudCAVAVIN PARIS 11

11, rue Oberkampf75 011 - PARIS

Tel.: +33 (0)9 50 41 45 9910.80 €*

Selection Autumn 2011

©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Charles H. Rivkin with François Gilbert at the tasting

L-R: Natalia Sklenarikova, Philippe Baijot and Adriana Karembeu

BONHAMS SELLS CASE OFROMANÉE-CONTI FOR

£126,500: ENJOY A BOTTLE FOR

£10,500 OR A GLASS FOR £1,750

Bonhams is delighted to announce thata case of Romanée-Conti from the 1990vintage sold for £126,500 in the Fine &Rare Wine sale that took place atBonhams, New Bond Street (London)on September 8th. At over £10,000 perbottle and £1,750 a glass, the case willundoubtedly be well looked after. Thesale realised over £760,000, with particularinterest in the older vintages on offer. www.bonhams.com

NEWS


FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

CHAMPAGNE Guy Tixier Rosé 1er Cru RosissimeDeep pink with orangy high-lights. Expressive nose markedby red fruit (cherry, raspberry).Crunchy fruit on the palate which is fleshy, full-bodied and melted. Pairings such as a red fruit tartspring to mind.

87/100

CHAMPAGNE Jean-Michel Pelletier Cuvée Anaëlle 2002Deep gold. Distinctive nosemingling notes of bakedapple with sweet notes.Rich, generous, very supple palate. More of the fruit andthe same sensation of sweetness. Would complementnibbles with foie gras.

84/100

CHAMPAGNE Jean Vesselle Brut Grand CruCuvée Le Petit Clos 1996 Deep gold with amber-like nuances.Open nose reminiscent of dried apricot,fig with a subtle toasted background.The palate shows seductive body, mel-lowness and pure, complex aromas, though above allfreshness. A quintessential Bouzy. Drink as a food wine.

95/100

GILBERT & GAILLARD SELECTION

THE ANGEL’S SHARE WENT THROUGH THE ROOF

The 6th “Angel’s Share” auction which took place in Cognac onSeptember 15th confirmed the event’s success. The black-tieevening was attended by the men and women who make Cognac,many international collectors and journalists from around theworld. 650 people were fortunate enough to be able to enjoy aunique Cognac experience. Twenty-five outstanding bottles,some unique or limited edition, were donated by Cognac firmsand auctioned by auctioneer Gérard-Tasset. For the first time, allthe lots were sold for a total of just under 100,000 euros. Onehad a reserve price of 3,500 euros and fetched 15,000 euros! Atthe end of the auction, the sculpture “Journey from the earth tothe light” donated by Caroline Tresca fetched 1,700 euros.Proceeds from the sale will be entirely donated to the Order ofMalta and local association Aurore.

An exceptional bottle of Cognac Frapin raised 1,000 euros

This sculpture fetched 1,700 euros


LA FÊTE DE LA FLEUR

ORGANISED IN CONJUNCTION

WITH THE COMMANDERIE DU

BONTEMPSSt Julien’s Château Beychevelle was theoriginal host for this year’s Fête de laFleur celebration but following itschange of hands (it is now ownedjointly by French Castel and JapaneseSuntory), they decided to pull out. Asthe name suggests, the Fête de la Fleuris the celebration of the flowering ofthe vine, marking the appearance ofsmall white blossoms. It is an eventorganised annually by the Commanderiedu Bontemps, an association of 350producer-members who represent theMédoc, Graves, Sauternes and Barsacappellations, in conjunction with achosen château. The costs of the event(a budget of around 1 million euros)are shared between the property andthe Commanderie.

CELEBRATION OF 10 YEARS OF

COLONY CAPITAL AT THE HEAD

OF LASCOMBESDominique Befve is Lascombes’ GeneralManager since Colony’s purchase of the

MONTHS OF PLANNING TO

ORGANISE THE DETAILSThe hands-on organisation came downto Lascombes’ Public RelationsManager, Karine Barbier, helped byDominique Befve’s wife Pia and eventsagency Côte Ouest. Pia Befve annually


BORDEAUX LIFE

The summer of 2011 will go down in the history of Margaux’s Château Lascombesas a memorable one, with the gala dinner celebration of the Fête de la Fleur hostedat the property, marking ten years of ownership by American investment fundColony Capital. It will be doubly memorable as after a number of years on themarket, the second growth property was sold some two weeks after the gala dinnercelebration to French mutual insurance company MACSF.

Château Lascombes: the end ofan era and the beginning of the next

property in 2001; with the agreementof owners Colony Capital, he put ChâteauLascombes forward as a potential host.The timing was perfect for celebratingten years at the head of the property.This left a short eight months to organisethe largest celebration in the Bordeauxwine trade calendar.

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Karine Barbier, Publ ic Relat ions Manager of Lascombes

menu for the 1500 guests in a specially-created kitchen of 400m2.

ASIAN INFLUENCE FOR THE

GALA DINNERTo pay homage to the importance of

the Chinese market in 2011, the team

decided to add an Asian touch with

replicas of the generals of Xian’s

Terracotta Army from the First Emperor

of China standing to attention outside

the marquee. The marquee stretched

2500 m2 and resembled a large dining

room with elaborate chandeliers, framed

sepia photos of scenes from Lascombes

and contemporary-design, transparent

Philippe Starck chairs. The guests were

entertained by jazz singers, opera singing

by Julie Mathevert, and an impressive

aerial acrobatic show by Maria Belloir.

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BORDEAUX LIFE


attends the Fête de la Fleur event: “As aguest, one is not aware of what goes onbehind the scenes for such a gala eveningto run smoothly. For example, we hadover 400 waiters, chefs and sommeliersto feed by a separate caterer, besidesour 1500 guests!”

Lascombes specified that they wantedthe tone of the evening to be “simple,classy and chic.” The biggest challengewas for the dinner to take no longerthan two hours; the most importantpart of the evening was the choice ofwines and the dishes to go with them.

THREE STAR MENU FOR

1500 GUESTSThe caterer for the main guests wasMont Blanc, who prepared a menucreated by three-Michelin-starred chefEric Fréchon from the Hôtel Bristol inParis (also owned by Colony) underhis supervision, aided by his teamfrom Paris. There were no fewer than40 chefs who re-created the four-course

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R-L: Dominique Befve, Châteaux Lascombes' General Manager, h is wife Pia, and Alain Juppé, French Foreign Minister and Mayor of Bordeaux

Four-course menu

MENUCaviar d’Aquitaine with MashedPotato flavoured with Haddock2006 Château Haut-Brion Blanc,Pessac Léognan - in magnum

*Saddle of Lamb in Nori Crust servedwith Gnocchi with Herbs and

pureed Kohlrabi2005 Château Lascombes, SecondGrowth, Margaux - in imperial

(6 litre/8 bottles)*

Farmhouse St Nectaire or Truffled Brie

2000 Château Léoville-Poyferré, Second Growth, St Julien

*Frozen Caipirinha Pineapple,

Banana and Passion-Fruit Sorbet andtiny Meringue

2008 Château d’Yquem, First Growth Superior, Sauternes


BORDEAUX LIFE

INDUCTION BY THE

COMMANDERIE DU BONTEMPSOne of the evening’s highlights is thecustomary “intronisation” inductionceremony. This year, 45 personalities fromthe world of wine, arts, entertainmentand politics were invited to becomehonorary members of theCommanderie, donning ermine robesto receive the honour. Today there aremore than 10,000 such membersaround the world.

SALE OF MARGAUX’S LARGEST

PROPERTY TO FRENCH MEDICAL

INSURANCE COMPANYFollowing the re-launch of the sale ofthe property with a number of newbanks, at the time of the gala dinner

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Chinese TV was present throughout the evening

The guests were entertained by jazz s ingers

BORDEAUX LIFE


French mutual insurance companyMACSF, has expressed his wish to continuethe way the property is currently runand he wants to keep the same team.He sees the investment in Lascombesas a long-term project. Having aninsurance company as owners ratherthan an investment fund is moresecure, both for the team who work

there were a number of parties interestedin the purchase of Château Lascombesbut nothing definite was on the table.

At the beginning of July the deal withMACSF for the purchase of the 84-hectare,second growth estate of ChâteauLascombes was signed for 200 millioneuros. Since Colony Capital purchasedthe property in 2001 and employedDominique Bevfe, previously ofChâteau Lafite and Château l’Evangilein Pomerol, they invested heavily tobring the second growth property upto its present level. Today Lascombeshas undoubtedly reached its goal andis well-noted for its wines. The progressmade over ten years in improving thequality of the wine has been impressive,with Château Lascombes now amongstthe major players of the Margauxappellation.

CONTINUITY FOR THE FUTURE

AT LASCOMBESSo what does the change in ownersmean for the property and forBordeaux? Dominique Bevfe explains:“Marcel Kahn, the director of the

here and for the Bordeaux market placewhere the wine is sold by merchants.”

So what plans do the new owners havefor the property? Today 80% ofLascombes' production is exported andis relatively well-known across theworld, particularly in the USA andmore recently in Asia. It is not so well-known in Europe, particularly inFrance, where there is work to do inmarketing and communications. Otherplans include the renovation of the“Chartreuse” building for offices andentertaining, and the development of awebsite to keep MACSF members up-to-date and involved with happenings atthe château. 2011 has been a good yearfor Château Lascombes with the Fête dela Fleur and the sale; with the harvestunder way, perhaps the 2011 vintagewill give them a hat-trick...

CHÂTEAU LASCOMBESTEL. +33 (0)5 57 88 70 66www.chateau-lascombes.com

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Château Lascombes is now amongst the major p layers of the Margaux appel lat ion

Prest ig ious Château d 'Yquem was the ideal conclusion to the meal

Our gold medal winesHere is a selection of gold scored 89/100wines. Find the full award-winning wineson our website: www.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTSPAGES

BURGUNDY'S EXCELLENCE .................. 22 to 27

Domaine Alain Patriarche:The class of Meursault Genévrières........................ 22

Fougeray de Beauclair :Incomparable Bonnes-Mares ! ............................... 24

Domaine Jessiaume :The jewel of Santenay ............................................. 26

RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE ........ 28 to 41


COVER STORY

ALSACEAlsace gewurztraminer A.C.89/100 Cave de Turckheim Late Harvest (50 cl) 2007 16.60 €89/100 Wolfberger Late Harvest 2007 18.95 € 89/100 Bernard Haegelin Bollenberg 2009 7.30 € 89/100 Schaeffer-Woerly Vieilles Vignes 2009 8.50 € Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer A.C.89/100 André Hartmann Hatschbourg - Armoirie 2009 13.50 € 89/100 Domaine Jean-Marie Koehly Gloeckelberg 2008 8.20 € Alsace Pinot Gris A.C.89/100 Domaine du Moulin de DusenbachLieu-dit Altenbourg 2009 13.70 €

BEAUJOLAISFleurie A.C.89/100 Villa Ponciago La Réserve 2010 9.70 € Morgon A.C.89/100 Henry Fessy Vintage 2009 8.50 €

BORDEAUXGraves A.C.89/100 Château Saint-Robert Poncet-Deville 2009 13.00 € Haut-Médoc A.C.89/100 Château la Tour Carnet Cuvée Les Douves 2008 n/aMargaux A.C.89/100 Baron de Brane Vintage 2008 21.40 € Médoc A.C.89/100 Château Patache d'Aux Vintage 2009 19.00 € Moulis A.C.89/100 Château Biston-Brillette Vintage 2008 14.75 € Pessac-Léognan A.C.89/100 Château Couhins Lurton Vintage 2010 n/aSaint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C.89/100 Château Faurie de Souchard Vintage 2010 n/a89/100 Château La Grâce Dieu Les Menuts Vintage 2008 17.00 €

BURGUNDYAloxe Corton A.C.89/100 Château Philippe-le-Hardi 20.90 € Les Brunettes et Planchots 2009Chablis A.C.89/100 Domaine Garnier et Fils Grains Dorés 2007 12.00 €

WINE SCORES

95-100/100 an outstanding wine, when a great terroir

meets exceptional winemaking expertise

90-94/100 a superlative wine combining finesse,

complexity and remarkable winemaking

85-89/100 a wine of extremely high standard, which

we enjoyed for its typicity and character

80-84/100 a quality wine combining balance,

structure and neatness for

a pleasurable wine drinking experience

75-79/100 a wine deemed acceptable

70-74/100 a wine with defects, unacceptable

65-69/100 a wine with major defects, inadmissible

50-64/100 unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included inour publications.

COVER STORY


Chablis Premier Cru A.C.89/100 Domaine Jean Collet & fils Montmains 2009 12.00 € Gevrey-Chambertin A.C.89/100 Domaine de la Vougeraie 1er Cru Bel Air 2008 44.00 € 89/100 Domaine Philippe Leclerc 35.00 € 1er Cru les Champeaux 200889/100 Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Vieilles Vignes 2009 23.60 € Mercurey A.C.89/100 Domaine Michel Juillot Les Vignes de Maillonge 2009 14.25 €Meursault A.C.89/100 Guy Bocard Vieilles Vignes 2008 20.00 € Savigny les Beaune A.C.89/100 Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair Les Golardes 2009 18.70 € Volnay A.C.89/100 Maison Louis Latour 1er Cru En Chevret 2007 30.80 €

JURAArbois A.C.89/100 Domaine de la Pinte Trousseau 2009 12.00 € Côtes du Jura A.C.89/100 Jacques TissotLes Corvées sous Curon Chardonnay 2009 13.50 €

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLONBanyuls A.C.89/100 Domaine du Mas Blanc Caudalies - 50 cl 15.00 € Corbières A.C.89/100 Domaine de Longueroche Raoul 2007 15.90 € 89/100 Château Trillol Cucugnan - Prestige 2008 12.50 €89/100 Les Caves Rocbère Terra-Vinea - Prestige 2010 8.00 € 89/100 Prieuré Ste Marie d'Albas Clos de Cassis 2008 10.90 € 89/100 La Grange du Bouïs Cuvée Roméo 2008 32.00 € Côtes du Roussillon A.O.P.89/100 Château de Rey Les Galets Roulés 2009 13.50 € Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac A.C.89/100 Domaine de Familongue - 3 Naissances 2008 15.20 €

LOIRE VALLEYAnjou Villages Brissac A.C.89/100 Château La Varière Vieilles Vignes 2009 n/aMuscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie A.C.89/100 Domaine La Haute Févrie Excellence 2009 4.70 € 89/100 Le Grand R de la Grange Vintage 2009 7.30 € 89/100 Château du Coing de St Fiacre Vintage 2009 6.00 € Pouilly-Fumé A.C.89/100 Cave de Pouilly sur Loire - Tonelum 2009 12.00 € Sancerre A.C.89/100 Domaine Henry Natter Vintage 2010 n/a89/100 Domaine de la Perrière Vintage 2010 n/a89/100 Michel Vattan Vintage 2009 7.50 € Saumur A.C.89/100 Château de Targé Les Fresnettes 2008 12.00

PROVENCEBandol A.C.89/100 Domaine de la Laidière Vintage 2010 14.00 € 89/100 Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2006 16.00 € Côtes de Provence A.C.89/100 Château de Berne Grande Cuvée 2007 26.00 € 89/100 Château de l'Aumérade Seigneur de Piegros 2010 9.40 € 89/100 Château Cavalier Prestige 2010 13.00 € 89/100 Domaines Ott Clos Mireille Blanc de Blancs 2009 21.00 € Côtes de Provence A.O.P.89/100 Domaine du Jas d'EsclansCuvée du Loup - élevé en Barriques 2010 15.40 € Côtes de Provence La Londe A.C.89/100 Domaine Saint André de FiguièreConfidentielle 2010 24.20 € Les Baux de Provence A.C.

89/100 Château Dalmeran MMVI 18.00 €

RHÔNE VALLEYChâteauneuf du Pape A.C.89/100 Château Cabrières Vintage 2008 18.00 € 89/100 Château Fortia Cuvée du Baron 2009 19.00 € 89/100 Bosquet des Papes Cuvée Tradition 2010 19.50 € 89/100 Domaine de Nalys Réserve 2009 30.00 € 89/100 Domaine Moulin-Tacussel Vintage 2010 24.00 € 89/100 Cellier des Princes Le Blason du Prince 2009 12.90 € Côtes du Rhône A.C.89/100 Domaine Galévan L'Esprit Devin 2009 12.00 € Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne A.C.89/100 Domaine des AmadieuCuvée Vieilles Vignes 2009 9.60 € Gigondas A.C.89/100 Gigondas La CaveLa Référence - «élevage hors bois» 2009 10.50 € Vacqueyras A.C.89/100 Le Clos de Caveau Carmin Brillant 2009 14.50 €

SAVOYVin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron A.C.89/100 Jean Perrier & Fils Fleur de Roussanne 2009 7.50 €

SOUTH-OUESTCahors A.C.89/100 Domaine Dhoste Chevalier Vintage 2006 12.00 € Côtes de Bergerac A.C.89/100 Château Bélingard Ortus 2009 15.00 € 89/100 Château Court-Les-Mûts L'Oracle 2008 14.00 € Côtes de Gascogne I.G.P.89/100 Domaine Chiroulet Grande Réserve 2008 12.30 € Madiran A.C.89/100 Domaine Capmartin Cuvée du Couvent 2009 11.00 € Monbazillac A.C.89/100 Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy La cuvée 2008 12.00 €

THE TERROIRThe Genévrières stretch over roughly 16.5 hectares. The namerefers to a once common shrub in this part of the Côte, the junipertree. Chardonnay reigns supreme here and it thrives on quiteclayey limestone marl from which it draws its elegance, finesseand aromatic complexity. The proportion of clay determines thearomatic intensity and degree of fullness in the great dry whitewines of Burgundy, and Meursault Genévrières is undoubtedlyone of them.


COVER STORY

Domaine Alain Patriarche:the distinction of Meursault GenévrièresCh r i s t i a n e a nd A l a i n

Patriarche are passionate

people. They are passionate

about Burgundy, Meursault

with its rolling hills and its

g r o w t h s , a n d a b o u t

Chardonnay. They are also

passionate about wine

making and ageing their

superlative wines. So much

so that they put their flawless

passion into each bottle of

their wine !

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THE WINE GROWERThe Patriarche family has been growing vines in Meursault for five

generations. Alain Patriarche’s father took over vines cultivated by

his own father until Alain himself could carry on the family

tradition in 1970. Over the years, the estate has grown and now

boasts 10 hectares divided between two villages. Alain Patriarche

grows seven different Meursaults, including this outstanding

Genévrières.

WINES FROM EACH CLIMATESITE AND VINEYARD BLOCK

ARE VINIFIED SEPARATELY ONALAIN PATRIARCHE’S ESTATE

COVER STORY


THE WINE MAKING PROCESSWines from each climate site and vineyard block on AlainPatriarche’s estate are vinified separately so as to retain the terroir’sintrinsic characteristics. Obviously all of the white wines are from Chardonnay. Aftercareful harvesting and pressing, the must ferments in oak. Thepercentage of new oak varies according to the origin of the grapes.After ageing for 12 months on the lees with stirring, as is thetradition for superior Meursaults, the wine is bottled; fining andfiltering are kept to a minimum.

THE WINEThis Genévrières First Growth covers 20 ares and the vines are onaverage 50 years old. The volcanic alluvial soils intermixed withclay-limestone impart immense distinction. The wine combines amineral and lemony character, toasted undercurrents and anaromatic freshness that ensures incredible persistency reinforcedby fullness and finesse, despite a distinct richness. As a rule, theGenévrières boast substantial cellaring potential and greaterpersistency on the palate. They are both complex yet subtle andunquestionably rank amongst the finest Meursaults.

Gilbert & Gaillard

Meursault A.C.Domaine Alain Patriarche

98/100 GENÉVRIÈRES FIRST GROWTH 2009Cellar price: 55.00 €

ALAIN PATRIARCHE12, rue des Forges - 21190 Meursault

Tel. +33 (0)3 80 21 24 48 - [email protected]

THE PERCENTAGE OF NEW OAKVARIES ACCORDING TO THE ORIGIN

OF THE GRAPES

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98/100 DOMAINE ALAIN PATRIARCHE 2009Meursault Genévrières Premier Cru A.C.

THE WINE GROWERSMarc and Pascal Jessiaume make wine as a team based ona very simple philosophy of producing fine, elegant wineswith supple, well-integrated tannins. The vines are grownusing integrated pest management involving ploughingand environmentally-friendly techniques. Their goal is toobtain low-yield healthy grapes.


COVER STORY

Domaine Jessiaume: the Santenay gem

Domaine Jessiaume was founded in 1830. It is currently run byrepresentatives of the 5th generation of the family, Marc and PascalJessiaume. In 2006, the estate was bought by Scottish industrialist andwine lover Sir David Murray. He lavished much-needed investment onthe estate enabling it to expand and establish a highly efficient négociantbusiness which markets this remarkable Charmes-Chambertin.

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Pascal and Marc Jessiaume

97/100 MAISON JESSIAUME 2008Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru A.C.

COVER STORY


THE TERROIRThis Charmes-Chambertin is grown over 0.18 hectares, in otherwords a tiny corner of an appellation that totals just 29 hectares.The vines are 50 years old and the rich soil is a mixture of clay, marland limestone with eastern exposure. Limestone is predominantand the surface soil is strewn with scree promoting excellentdrainage and fruit ripening.

THE WINE MAKING PROCESSThe Pinot Noir grapes used for the red wines are sorted anddestemmed then placed into tanks for cold soaking.Actual fermentation then begins and lasts for between 2 to 3weeks. The wines are aged in French oak casks for 12 to 15 monthsdepending on the vintage, including 15-20 % new oak. A fewmonths before going on sale the wines are bottled.

THE WINEMarvellous is the first word that comes to mind. The wine is suave,deep, shows great fruit purity and delicate oak. Its primary assetthough is its fantastic balance combining fullness, richness andpersistency. Just occasionally, Burgundy affords the wine lover theunique experience that comes only with superlative wines, thefeeling of never having tasted anything like this before! Thisfantastic rendition of the excellent 2008 vintage is a member ofthat select club.

Gilbert & Gaillard

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru A.C.97/100 MAISON JESSIAUME 2008

Cellar price: 75.00 €

DOMAINE JESSIAUME10, rue de la Gare - 21590 Santenay

Tel. +33 (0)3 80 20 60 [email protected]

DOMAINE JESSIAUME WAS FOUNDED IN 1830

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THE WINE GROWERPatrice began making wine in Burgundy in 1991 at Domaine

Fougeray de Beauclair with his future in-laws. Over the last 20 years,

the area under vine has expanded, mainly through the addition of

Clos Marion (a monopole). The quest for quality is constant,

through a winery equipped with temperature control and above

all, vineyard blocks where some of the vines are over 60 years old.

Patrice worked with his father-in-law Jean-Louis Fougeray for 9

years before taking over full responsibility for wine making in

1999. The estate is predicated on two absolute principles: striving

for quality and making pleasurable, traditional wines.

THE TERROIRThis is the essential ingredient for all great wines. Burgundy wines

are not presented by grape variety but by place names -

Marsannay, Fixin, Bonnes Mares…


COVER STORY

Fougeray de Beauclair:Bonnes-Mares, in a league of its ownBorn in Toulon (Var) in 1970, Patrice Ollivier is the son and grandson of

winegrowers in Provence. After obtaining a vocational baccalaureat in

Var, he studied for a diploma in viticulture and winemaking in Beaune

(Burgundy) from 1989 - 1991. As part of his course, internships allowed

him to become familiar with the region and to meet fellow student Laurence

Fougeray who would become his wife.

THE ESTATE IS PREDICATED ON TWOABSOLUTE PRINCIPLES: STRIVING FOR

QUALITY AND MAKING PLEASURABLE, TRADITIONAL WINES

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COVER STORY


Terroir is the cornerstone of winemaking philosophy. The soils are

mostly clay-limestone. What sets Bonnes Mares apart from

surrounding growths is the presence of slightly marly soil (white

earth). Bonnes Mares is occasionally dubbed bonnes mères for its

nourishing qualities, not so much in terms of quantity but quality.

One quarter of this particular vineyard block in Bonnes Mares is

planted to vines over 70 years old compared with an average of 50

years for all the other appellations grown on the estate.

THE WINEMAKING PROCESSA quality wine needs quality vines and therefore yield restrictions

per vine and daily monitoring out in the field are of paramount

importance. The grapes are picked by hand and placed in crates. A

sorting table is used when necessary for selecting the best bunches.

A 3-4 day cold soak then ensues to ensure maximum fruit is

harnessed. The wines are subsequently macerated for another

fortnight at normal temperatures (maximum 31°C) to extract

stuffing but not dry tannins.

The amount of crushing and pumping over depends on the

vintage and its inherent potential. Obviously every year is different

and requires flexibility depending on known factors such as acidity,

alcohol or richness.

The wines are put into casks roughly two months after pressing so

that they have had time to rest and do not contain too many lees.

THE WINEThe Bonnes Mares 2009 is racy, deep and expressive with substantial

cellaring capacity. Many wine lovers however prefer wines that are

still fruit-forward with secondary aromas in the background. This

Great Growth appellation shows remarkable balance after a

decade or so. To ensure supply, it is advisable to buy the wines as

futures; they are then available after bottling. Apart from private

customers, the estate also sells to restaurants after the wines have

been cellared for an average three years.

Gilbert & Gaillard

Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru A.C.97/100 DOMAINE FOUGERAY DE BEAUCLAIR 2009

Cellar price: 99.20 €

PATRICE AND LAURENCE OLLIVIER

44, rue de Mazy - 21160 Marsannay-la-Côte

Tel. +33 (0)3 80 52 21 12 - [email protected]

97/100 DOMAINE FOUGERAY DE BEAUCLAIR 2009Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

THE GRAPES ARE PICKED BY HAND AND PLACED IN CRATES

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OUR PICKS


RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE

ALSACE

Alsace Gewurztraminer A.C.

92/100 J. M. Wassler Cuvée des Anges -

Vendanges Tardives - 50 cl 2007 13.50 €

91/100 Jacques Iltis Cuvée des Demoiselles 2009 14.00 €

91/100 Sipp Mack Lucie Marie -

Vendanges Tardives- 50 cl 2007 22.80 €

90/100 René Fleck Vendanges Tardives 2007 17.90 €

Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer A.C.

93/100 Domaines Schlumberger Kessler 2005 19.15 €

92/100 Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg Schlossberg -

Anne Boecklin 2009 12.00 €

92/100 Sparr Tradition Sporen 2009 15.00 €

92/100 Domaine du Moulin de

Dusenbach Kaefferkopf 2009 15.90 €

91/100 Cave Vinicole Hunawihr Schoenenbourg 2008 12.50 €

91/100 Jean-Baptiste Adam Kaefferkopf -

Vieilles Vignes 2009 17.50 €

90/100 Wolfberger Steinert 2008 9.80 €

90/100 Domaine Viticole de la Ville de

Colmar Pfersigberg 2009 10.10 €

90/100 Domaine Charles Baur Pfersigberg 2008 13.30 €

90/100 Domaine Saint-Rémy Goldert 2009

90/100 Frédéric Mallo & fils Rosacker -

Vendanges Tardives - 50 cl 2007 11.50 €

90/100 Horcher Mandelberg 2009 11.80 €

Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris A.C.

94/100 Domaine Pierre Frick Vorbourg -

Vendanges Tardives 2008 19.10 €

Alsace Grand Cru Riesling A.C.

95/100 Domaine Seppi Landmann Zinnkoepflé -


95/100 Domaine Sylvie Spielmann Kanzlerberg 2006 17.50 €

93/100Maison Zoeller Altenberg de Wolxheim 2003 8.50 €

92/100 Château Ollwiller Vieilles Vignes 2007 14.90 €

92/100 Ruhlmann Frankstein 2008 10.90 €

91/100 Kuentz-Bas Pfersigberg - Trois Châteaux 2008 18.10 €

91/100 Domaine Jean Sipp Kirchberg de

Ribeauvillé 2008 16.00 €

90/100 Albert Schoech Wineck-Schlossberg 2008 8.60 €

90/100 Domaine Haegi Zotzenberg 2009 8.40 €

90/100 Domaine Joseph Scharsch

Altemberg de Wolxheim 2006 9.50 €

90/100 Domaine Bott Frères Kirchberg de

Ribeauvillé 2009 15.30 €

90/100 Domaine Agapé Schoenenbourg 2009 16.40 €

Alsace Pinot Gris A.C.

90/100 André Blanck et ses Fils Cuvée Baptiste -


Alsace Riesling A.C.

92/100 Philippe Gocker Vendanges Tardives 2008 17.00 €

91/100 Scherb Bernard et Fils Venganges Tardives -

50 cl 2008 12.00 €

90/100 Julien Schaal Les 5 Pierres 2009 12.00 €

90/100 P. Humbrecht Prestige 2007 10.60 €

BEAUJOLAIS

Brouilly A.C.

90/100 Château de la Chaize Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2009 10.00 €

Morgon A.C.

91/100 Domaine de la Bêche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2009 5.50 €

90/100 Olivier Depardon Charmes 2009 8.50 €

90/100 Domaine de la Chaponne Côte du Py 2009 6.00 €

90/100 Domaine de la Chaponne Cuvée Joseph 2009 7.00 €

Moulin à Vent A.C.

90/100 Domaine Sambin Vintage 2009 8.20 €

Here are the scores for the best wines we tasted in 2011. You will find all of our 2011 tasting notes on our website: www.gilbertgaillard.com



BORDEAUX

Bordeaux A.C.

90/100 Reignac Vintage 2009 18.00 €

Bordeaux supérieur A.C.

90/100 Grand Vin de Reignac Vintage 2009 20.00 €

Cadillac A.C.

90/100 Château Garbes-Cabanieu Grains Nobles 2006 8.00 €

Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux A.C.

91/100 L'Ame de Fontbaude Vintage 2008 14.80 €

Côtes de Castillon A.C.

90/100 Domaine de l'A Vintage 2007 28.00 €

Graves A.C.

90/100 Château Haura Vintage 2008 12.00 €

Haut-Médoc A.C.

93/100 Château La Lagune Vintage 2008 45.00 €

90/100 Château Citran Vintage 2008 15.00 €

Lalande de Pomerol A.C.

90/100 Château Lafleur-Vauzelle Vintage 2009 9.00 €

Margaux A.C.

94/100 Château Lascombes Vintage 2006 60.00 €

93/100 Château Brane-Cantenac Vintage 2008 23.00 €

93/100 Château Giscours Vintage 2007 43.00 €

91/100 Château du Tertre Vintage 2007 28.00 €

91/100 Château Mongravey Vintage 2008 21.00 €

90/100 Château La Tour de Mons Vintage 2008 14.00 €

90/100 Château Confidence de Margaux Vintage 2008 18.00 €

Moulis A.C.

90/100 Château Poujeaux Vintage 2008 22.50 €

Pessac-Léognan A.C.

94/100 Château Malartic-Lagravière Vintage 2008 40.00 €

93/100 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Vintage 2009 43.00 €

91/100 Château Le Sartre Vintage 2008 15.00 €

Pomerol A.C.

93/100 Château Beauregard Vintage 2008 32.00 €

92/100 Château Mazeyres Vintage 2008 23.50 €

91/100 Château Grand Moulinet Vintage 2009 17.00 €

91/100 Château Taillefer Vintage 2007 28.00 €

90/100 Vieux Château Ferron Vintage 2008 37.00 €

90/100 Château Franc-Maillet Vintage 2008 19.00 €

90/100 Château Monbrun Vintage 2008 19.50 €

Saint-Emilion A.C.

90/100 L'or du Temps Vintage 2008 17.00 €

Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C.

92/100 Château La Tour Figeac Vintage 2008 35.00 €

92/100 Château de Pressac Vintage 2008 22.50 €

92/100 Château Grand Corbin-Despagne Vintage 2008 25.00 €

92/100 Château Fleur Cardinale Vintage 2008 n/a

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91/100 Château Dassault Vintage 2008 49.00 €

91/100 Château Laroze Vintage 2008 25.00 €

91/100 Château La Dominique Vintage 2007 23.80 €

90/100 Château La Fleur du Casse Vintage 2007 23.80 €

90/100 Château Corbin Michotte Vintage 2008 26.00 €

90/100 Château Haut Rocher Vintage 2008 17.00 €

90/100 Château Haut Troquart La Grâce Dieu Cuvée Passion 2008 18.50 €

90/100 Château Monlot Cuvée Prestige 2009 25.00 €

90/100 Château Armens Vintage 2009 19.50 €

90/100 Château Faurie de Souchard Vintage 2008 25.00 €

90/100 Château Tauzinat l'Hermitage Vintage 2007 18.50 €

90/100 Château Villemaurine Vintage 2008 35.00 €

90/100 Château Grand Corbin Manuel Vintage 2007 18.00 €

Saint-Estèphe A.C.

96/100 Château Montrose Vintage 2008 n/a

94/100 Château Haut-Marbuzet Vintage 2009 n/a

93/100 Château La Haye Majesté 2008 50.00 €

92/100 Château Lilian Ladouys Vintage 2008 15.00 €

91/100 Château L'Argilus du Roi Vintage 2008 14.50 €

90/100 Château Lafon-Rochet Vintage 2010 40.60 €

Saint-Georges Saint-Emilion A.C.

90/100 Château Saint-Georges Vintage 2008 20.83 €

Saint-Julien A.C.

96/100 Château Branaire-Ducru Vintage 2010 n/a

96/100 Château Lagrange Mllésime 2008 n/a

96/100 Château Gloria Vintage 2008 27.50 €

96/100 Château Saint-Pierre Vintage 2007 52.00 €

96/100 Château Gloria Vintage 2007 30.00 €

Sauternes A.C.

94/100 Château La Tour Blanche Vintage 2007 46.00 €

93/100 Château Roumieu-Lacoste Cuvée André 2007 20.00 €

92/100 Château Lamothe Vintage 2007 26.00 €

91/100 Château Bastor-Lamontagne Vintage 2007 23.00 €

91/100 Château Haut-Bergeron Vintage 2009 24.00 €

90/100 Château Bérénice Vintage 2008 17.50 €

90/100 Duval & Blanchet Les Notes Dorées 2009 15.00 €

CHABLIS PREMIER CRU A.C.Domaine Alain GeoffroyBeauroy 2009Light yellow. Expressive nosecombining white-fleshed fruitsand a mineral dimension. Full,quite powerful attack, lovelyexuberance that bolsters thesensation of length. Perfumed finish intermixingnotes of almond, a floral touch and minerality.

90/100

CHABLIS GRAND CRU A.C.Domaine Garnier et FilsVaudésir 2008Bright, pale gold. Refined noseopening up to floral notes and ripelemon with delicate oak notes inthe background. Seductive volume,fat and freshness on the palate. Aperfumed, persistent great growth. Very enjoyable.

92/100

CHABLIS GRAND CRU A.C. Domaine Jean Collet &fils - Valmur 2009 Light yellow. Profound nosedisplaying wonderful mineralityand a floral, lemony background.The palate shows seductive fat and fullness. Polishedand lingering across the palate. A great growth in all itssplendour. Drink with delicately-flavoured fish or shellfish.

93/100


BURGUNDY

Beaune A.C.

92/100 Domaine Jean-Marc & Hugues Pavelot

1er Cru Les Bressandes 2008 20.00 €

90/100 Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

1er Cru Les Teurons 2009 25.90 €

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru A.C.

97/100 Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair Vintage 2009 99.20 €

Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise A.C.

90/100 Domaine A. et P. de Villaine La Digoine 2009 13.70 €

Chablis Grand Cru A.C.

95/100 Domaine William Fèvre Bougros 2009 40.40 €

95/100 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils

Les Clos - Clos des Hospices dans les Clos 2009 28.00 €

94/100 Simonnet-Febvre Les Clos 2008 34.95 €

93/100 Domaine Jean Collet & fils Valmur 2009 25.00 €



93/100 Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre

Les Preuses 2009 n/a

92/100 Domaine Guy Robin & fils Vaudésir -


92/100 Domaine Long-Depaquit Les Vaudésirs 2009 29.60 €

92/100 Domaine Garnier et Fils Vaudésir 2008 30.00 €

91/100 Raoul Gautherin & fils Grenouilles 2009 25.00 €

Chablis Premier Cru A.C.

91/100 La Chablisienne Côte de Léchet 2008 n/a

90/100 Domaine Alain Geoffroy Vau-Ligneau 2009 14.00 €

90/100 Domaine Alain Gautheron Vaucoupin 2009 11.50 €

90/100 Domaine Hamelin Beauroy 2008 11.95 €

90/100 Château de Chemilly Vosgros -

fûts de chêne 2009 14.50 €

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru A.C.

97/100Maison Jessiaume Vintage 2008 75.00 €

96/100 Domaine Henri Rebourseau Vintage 2002 82.00 €

Chassagne-Montrachet A.C.

92/100 Duchesse de Magenta

1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot 2008 48.00 €

90/100 Château de Chassagne-

Montrachet Vintage 2009 23.00 €

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru A.C.

94/100 Aegerter Jean-Luc & Paul Vintage 2008 140.00 €

93/100 Château Philippe-le-Hardi Vintage 2008 58.00 €

92/100 Alex Gambal Vintage 2009 85.00 €

Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru A.C.

96/100 Bouchard père & fils Vintage 2009 88.20 €

96/100 Domaine Bertagna Vintage 2009 88.00 €

94/100 Domaine Denis Père et Fils Vintage 2009 42.00 €

Corton Grand Cru A.C.

94/100 Domaine Faiveley Grand Cru Clos des

Corton Faiveley - Monopole 2009 n/a

93/100 Domaine Chandon de Briailles

Les Bressandes 2009 70.00 €

92/100 Domaine Louis Latour

Clos de la Vigne au Saint 2006 45.80 €

Corton-Renardes Grand Cru A.C.

93/100 Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson

Les Renardes 2007 45.00 €

Crémant de Bourgogne A.C.

90/100 Caves Bailly-Lapierre Brut rosé Vive la Joie 2006 n/a

Echezeaux Grand Cru A.C.

93/100 Domaine Nudant Vintage 2008 50.00 €

93/100 Château David de Beaufort Vintage 2001 86.60 €

Fixin A.C.

90/100 Clos St-Louis 1er Cru Hervelets 2009 24.00 €

CHARMES CHAMBERTINGRAND CRU A.C. Domaine HenriRebourseau Vintage 2002 Superb deep colour. Open,complex nose intermixing jammyand dried fruits, notes of undergrowth and damp earth.Amazing concentration, richness and fullness on thepalate. A powerful wine with presence, still in its youth.

96/100

VOUGEOT A.C. Domaine de la Vougeraie1er Cru Le Clos Blancde Vougeot - MonopoleBeautiful light gold. Veryexpressive, refined noseblending notes of ripe lemon and quality toasted oak.The palate is both opulent yet fresh showing seductivevolume, persistency and focus. Top marks.

93/100

CLOS DE VOUGEOT GRAND CRU A.C. Château Philippe Le Hardi 2008 Ruby. Profound nose with accents of late-picked redfruits (raspberry, cherry)enhanced by a note of oak. Onthe palate, the fruity character ishighlighted by a full, robust,well-integrated structure. Goldstandard. Cellar for 3 to 5 years.

93/100


BONNES MARES GRAND CRU A.C. Domaine Fougeray deBeauclair - Vintage 2009 Appealing colour with ruby-redhighlights. Delicate, refined nosemarrying ripe notes of raspberryand cherry and elegant oak. The palate displays wonderfulconcentration, extremely refined tannins and fullness.Remarkable balance across the palate. Huge potential.

97/100



Gevrey-Chambertin A.C.

91/100 Domaine Philippe Leclerc

1er Cru la Combe aux Moines 2008 39.00 €

90/100 Jean-Claude Boisset

1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques 2009 88.95 €

Mercurey A.C.

91/100 Domaine Michel Juillot

1er Cru Clos des Barraults 2008 22.00 €

91/100 Domaine de Suremain 1er Cru La Bondue 2008 15.10 €

90/100 Château d'Etroyes

Cuvée Vieilles Vignes des Ormeaux 2009 14.10 €

Meursault A.C.

98/100 Domaine Alain Patriarche Genévrières

1er Cru 2009 55.00 €

96/100 Guy Bocard 1er Cru Charmes 2008 35.00 €

94/100 Domaine Rougeot 1er Cru Charmes 2009 35.00 €

90/100 Closerie des Alisiers Terroir de Meursault 2009 20.00 €

90/100 Domaine Berthelemot Les Tillets 2009 24.00 €

Montagny A.C.

90/100 Château de la Saule 1er Cru Les Burnins 2009 13.50 €

Nuits Saint Georges A.C.

90/100 Domaine du Château Gris

1er Cru Ghâteau Gris - Monopole 2008 41.00 €

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN A.C. Domaine Philippe Leclerc 1er Cru la Combe auxMoines 2008Clean red. Wonderful quality fruiton the nose reminiscent of cherry andraspberry. Sappy palate showing fullness and veryprecise fragrances. Oak is still very upfront but shouldgradually play a supporting role to the fruit. Verynoble breeding here.

91/100

ECHEZEAUX GRAND CRU A.C. Domaine Nudant Jean-René - Vintage 2008 Limpid pale ruby-red. Subtle racynose of morello cherry with a floraltouch and refined oak under-currents. Taut, intensely aromatic palate that is savouryand fresh with a closely-integrated structure. A top-notchwine that will reveal itself wonderfully in 5-6 years' time.

93/100

MEURSAULT A.C. Domaine Alain PatriarcheGenévrières 1er Cru 2009Light gold. Profound, elegant noseblending a mineral and lemonycharacter with toasted, menthol-like undercurrents. Astonishing fullness, finesse, lightnessand freshness on the palate. The aromas are augmentedby a lingering mineral dimension. A superlative wine.

98/100

MEURSAULT-CHARMES PREMIER CRU A.C.Domaine Guy BocardVintage 2008 Bright, pale yellow. Profoundnose showing great finesse.Midway between fruity (lemon)and mineral aromatics. The palateshows textbook harmony, full,fat and ethereal. Refined texture framed by freshness.Substantial persistency.

96/100



Pommard A.C.

93/100 Château de Pommard Grand Vin 2008 54.00 €

93/100 Domaine Coste-Caumartin 1er Cru

Le Clos des Boucherottes - Monopole 2009 29.60 €

92/100 Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure

1er Cru Clos des Charmots 2009 21.00 €

Pouilly-Fuissé A.C.

93/100 Domaine Auvigue Cuvée Hors Classe 2009 17.00 €

91/100 Denis Jeandeau Secret Minéral 2009 26.00 €

91/100 Château de Pouilly ”Cuvée 1551” 2008 18.00 €

91/100 Domaine Roger Luquet Vieilles Vignes 2009 14.80 €

90/100 Domaine Corsin L'Exception -


90/100 La Source des Fées Cep Eternel 2009 18.80 €

90/100 Sophie Cinier Vers Cras 2008 18.50 €

90/100 Domaine Pierre Desroches Vintage 2009 10.40 €

Puligny-Montrachet A.C.

93/100 Paul Pernot et ses Fils 1er Cru Folatières 2009 28.00 €

92/100 Domaine Henri Prudhon & fils

Les Enseignères 2008 20.00 €

Saint-Aubin A.C.

90/100 Bader-Mimeur 1er Cru En Rémilly 2009 15.50 €



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Santenay A.C.

91/100 David Moreau 1er Cru Clos Rousseau 2009 25.00 €

Volnay A.C.

92/100 Domaine Poulleau Père & Fils 1er Cru 2009 29.30 €

90/100 Domaine Réyane & Pascal Bouley

1er Cru Robardelle 2008 23.10 €

Vosne Romanée A.C.

97/100 Domaine Michel Gros

1er Cru Clos des Réas - Monopole 2004 41.50 €

Vougeot A.C.

93/100 Domaine de la Vougeraie 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc

de Vougeot - Monopole 20.08 €

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Banyuls A.C.

90/100 Les Clos de Paulilles Cap Béar 2007 15.70 €

Banyuls Grand Cru A.C.

94/100 Domaine du Traginer Vintage 2003 20.00 €

Cabardès A.C.

90/100 Cave La Malepère Révolution 2007 16.50 €

Corbières A.C.

92/100 Cave Coopérative de Castelmaure

”Cuvée N° 3” 2008 18.90 €

91/100 Les Caves Rocbère Ténor 2010 15.00 €

91/100 Domaine Haut Saint Georges Vintage 2009 4.55 €

90/100 Domaine de Longueroche Cuvée Aurélien 2008 9.60 €

90/100 Château Beauregard Mirouze Fiaire 2007 24.00 €

Côtes du Roussillon A.C.

91/100 Château de Lacroix Réserve 2010 15.00 €

90/100 Château Saint Nicolas Nicolaus 20.08 €

Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France A.C.

92/100 Domaine de Rancy Vintage 2006 12.00 €

Côtes du Roussillon-Villages A.C.

93/100 Domaine Arguti Ugo 2009 12.00 €

90/100 Dom Brial Vintage 2005 24.00 €

Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Tautavel A.C.

92/100 Domaine Fontanel Prieuré 2009 16.00 €

Faugères A.C.

92/100 Château de Grézan Les Schistes Dorés 2008 22.00 €

91/100 Abbaye Sylva Plana Le Songe de l'Abbé 2008 15.00 €

Fitou A.C.

90/100 Château de Montmal Vintage 2010 7.90 €

90/100 Caves du Mont Tauch Montmal 2009 12.50 €

Hérault I.G.P.

92/100 Domaine Verchant Cuvée Marcelle 2006 9.00 €

Languedoc A.C.

93/100 Stella Nova Les Pléiades 2005 14.50 €



90/100 Château La Clotte -

Fontane Mouton La Clotte 2009 13.00 €

90/100 La Grange Icône - Castalides 2009 26.90 €

90/100 Château la Vernède Caecilia 2008 21.00 €

Languedoc Grès de Montpellier A.C.

93/100Mas du Novi Prestigi 2007 10.30 €

91/100 Domaine Saint-Jean du Noviciat Novi 2006 18.50 €

Languedoc La Clape A.C.

92/100 Château des Karantes Vintage 2009 14.00 €

90/100 Château Rouquette sur

Mer Cuvée Henry Lapierre 2008 18.95 €

90/100 Château Mire l'Etang

Cuvée des Ducs de Fleury 2008 11.00 €

Languedoc Montpeyroux A.C.

90/100 Villa Dondona Vintage 2009 9.50 €

Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup A.C.

93/100 Domaine de Villeneuve Chant des Roches 2007 16.00 €

93/100Mas Thélème Exultet 2007 15.00 €

92/100 Bergerie du Capucin Larmanela 2008 18.00 €

91/100 Château l'Euzière Les Escarboucles 2009 13.80 €

90/100 Domaine Les Grandes Costes Vintage 2008 17.50 €

Languedoc Saint-Georges d'Orques A.C.

93/100 Château de l'Engarran

Cuvée Quetton Saint-Georges 2007 17.90 €

Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac A.C.

93/100Mas de la Seranne Antonin et Louis 2008 18.40 €

91/100 Domaine Le Clos du Serres le florilège 2005 15.00 €

Maury A.C.

90/100 La Coume du Roy 50 cl 1998 25.60 €

Minervois A.C.

92/100 Domaine Pierre Fil Cuvée Orebus 2009 10.00 €

90/100 Château Villerambert Julien Millesime 2006 15.00 €

90/100 Château d'Agel In Extremis 2008 25.00 €

Minervois La Livinière A.C.

90/100 Domaine Aimé Au gré du vent 2007 9.00 €

Muscat de Frontignan A.C.

90/100Mas de Madame ”Vendanges 5” 2010 13.50 €

Pays d'Oc I.G.P.

93/100 Aubai Mema La Douzième 2006 15.00 €

Rivesaltes A.C.

95/100 Domaine de Besombes Le Grenat 2008 12.00 €

93/100 Château Rombeau Ambré - 50 cl 7.00 €

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ADVERTORIAL

ROCBÈRE’S STORAGE AND WINEMAKING CAPACITY HAS INCREASED

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Corbières, Chalan, Port-la-Nouvelle, Peyriac-de-Mer and Monze.Posting a turnover of 11 million euros in 2010, the winery ownsaround twenty brands including Le Grand Opéra and Le Vent Marin,both flagship labels within the Rocbère range. The Rocbère and TerraVinea brands are also of paramount importance in promoting thewinery’s reputation.

LES CAVES ROCBÈRE

Sales director: Jean-Michel Mora

Tel. +33 (0)6 11 50 68 12 - Tel. direct line +33 (0)4 68 48 70 65

Skype: jm.mora - [email protected]

Don’t miss!TERRA VINEA, CHEMIN DES PLATRIÈRES, PORTEL-DES-CORBIÈRES

From Narbonne, take the RN 9 towards Sigean then follow the road

to Portel-dès-Corbières - Entry fee: adults €8.50, children aged 6-9 €1, children aged 10-14 €3.50 - Open daily

Tel. +33 (0)4 68 48 64 90 - www.terra-vinea.com

Les Caves RocbèrePortel-des-Corbières:

Rocbère invests in combinedwine making facilities

T he Rocbère winery in Portel-des-Corbières is the largestproducer in the Corbières appellation. It accounts for 10% of the appellation’s overall output and has recently

launched a 4 million euro investment programme investmentprogramme. The winery was formed by the merger of thePeyriac-de-Mer, Portel-des-Corbières and Sigean co-operatives, joined in 2008 by the co-operative in Monze. Itsintention is to build combined wine making, bottling and storagefacilities for wines from the group’s four wineries. Work wasrecently completed and Rocbère’s storage and wine makingcapacity has increased from 75,000 hl to 160,000 hl.

An extension housing ten new 600-hl and sixteen 260-hl tankswith a combined capacity of 10,000 hl stands against the existingwinery. A new building currently houses 79,000 hl of wine. Inaddition to this, the existing vat cellar holds around 63,000 hland nearly 2,500 hl are aged in two thousand oak barrelsstored in the underground cellars of Terra Vinea. Rocbère alsoboasts two overseas offices, one in China, the other in Cambodia.In France, it owns six of its own shops in Sigean, Portel-des-



Quarts de Chaume A.C.

94/100 Domaine des Baumard Vintage 2008 34.00 €

Sancerre A.C.

94/100 Domaine de la Perrière Mégalithe 2008 n/a

93/100 Domaine Jean-Max Roger Vieilles Vignes 2008 17.00 €

92/100 Henri Bourgeois La Bourgeoise 2008 20.00 €

92/100 Prieur Pierre et Fils Cuvée Maréchal Prieur 2009 13.00 €

92/100 Domaine du Carrou Cuvée ”La Jouline” -


91/100 Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Les Anges Lots 2009 14.00 €

91/100Matthias et Emile Roblin Ammonites 2009 13.00 €

91/100 Domaine Vacheron Domaine 2010 15.00 €

91/100 Domaine La Gemière Ambre -

Cuvée Spéciale 2009 10.10 €

90/100 Domaine Henry Natter

Cuvée François de La Grange de Montigny 2008 n/a

90/100 Dionysia Vin des Héros 2010 n/a

90/100Michel Vattan Cuvée Argile 2009 8.00 €

Saumur A.C.

91/100 Château de Brézé Clos David 2010 30.00 €

Saumur Champigny A.C.

92/100 Domaine de Nerleux Les Loups Noirs 2008 13.50 €

90/100 Domaine Langlois Chateau Vieilles Vignes 2005 13.95 €

Saumur Puy Notre Dame

92/100 Domaine de la Paleine Moulin des Quints 2008 15.00 €

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BANDOL A.C. Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2010 Light yellow. Enticing, focused nosemarrying white flowers and notes ofpeach and almond. More, very focusedwhite peach aromatics on the palate.Rich, fleshy, fresh and very harmonious.A wine for pleasure. Drink now.

90/100

FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THIS ESTATE CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

90/100 Domaine du Vieux Pressoir Vintage 2010 7.50 €

Savennières A.C.

94/100 Château d'Epiré Cuvée Spéciale 2009 14.50 €

91/100 Domaine du Closel -

Château des Vaults Les Caillardières 2004 14.30 €

Touraine A.C.

90/100 Domaine Joël Delaunay Sauvignon blanc 2010 5.50 €

90/100 Famille Gaillard Sauvignon 2010 n/a

PROVENCE

Bandol A.C.

94/100 La Bastide Blanche Cuvée Fontanéou 2008 18.00 €

93/100 Château la Rouvière Vintage 2006 21.50 €

92/100 Domaine La Suffrène Cuvée Les Lauves 2008 18.00 €

91/100 Château Pradeaux Vintage 2006 22.00 €

90/100 Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2010 15.00 €

Continued on page 39



Saint-Chinian A.C.

93/100Mas de Cynanque Amicytia 2008 16.00 €

92/100 Henri et Laurent Miquel Larmes des Fées 2007 32.00 €

90/100 Château Belot Best of Belot 2008 17.50 €

90/100 Domaine La Madura Vintage 2007 15.90 €

Saint-Chinian Roquebrun A.C.

92/100 Cave de Roquebrun Baron d'Aupenac 2008 21.65 €

Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

92/100 Domaine Virgile Joly Virgile 2005 24.00 €

Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel

94/100 Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel n/a

92/100Mas des Dames La Diva 2007 12.00 €

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes

91/100 Les Terres de Mallyce Pierres de Lune 2008 11.00 €

Vin de Pays d'Oc

91/100 Château de Gourgazaud Quintus 2008 16.90 €

LOIRE VALLEY

Anjou Villages Brissac A.C.

93/100 Château La Varière La Grande Chevalerie 2009 19.00 €

90/100 Domaine des Rochelles Les Millerits 2008 17.00 €

Bonnezeaux A.C.

91/100 Domaine de la Couchetière Beauregard 2009 13.60 €

Bourgueil A.C.

90/100 Vignobles des Robinières L'Ormeau de Maure 2009 6.50 €

Chinon A.C.

92/100 Charles Joguet Clos de la Dioterie 2008 20.00 €

92/100 Domaine Charles Pain Château de Naie 2007 12.00 €

90/100 Domaine Dozon L'Exception 2006 9.10 €

90/100 Château de Saint Louans Vintage 2008 30.00 €

90/100 Domaine de Noiré Caractère 2008 10.50 €

Coteaux de l'Aubance A.C.

96/100 Domaine de Montgilet Les Trois Schistes 2009 16.50 €

93/100 Domaine d'Orgigné Vintage 2009 10.30 €

91/100 Domaine de Haute Perche Les Fontenelles 2009 14.50 €

Coteaux de Saumur A.C.

93/100 Château de Targé 50 cl 2009 21.00 €

Coteaux du Layon Faye d'Anjou A.C.

90/100 Domaine de Trompe-Tonneau Vintage 2010 7.40 €

Coteaux du Layon Rablay A.C.

90/100 Château La Tomaze Cuvée des Lys 2010 15.00 €

Menetou-Salon A.C.

91/100 La Tour Saint-Martin Honorine 2008 18.00 €

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine A.C.

93/100 Château du Coing de Saint Fiacre L'Ancestrale 2005 9.50 €

90/100 Clisson Vintage 2006 10.00 €

90/100 Château de la Gravelle Gorges 2005 9.50 €

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie A.C.

90/100 Domaine Martin Luneau Gorges 2005 8.90 €

Pouilly-Fumé A.C.

93/100 Philippe Raimbault Les Lumeaux 2010 9.20 €

93/100 Gitton père & fils Nebula 2008 18.95 €

93/100 Château de Tracy 101 Rangs 2008 60.00 €

92/100 Jean Pabiot et Fils Cuvée Séduction 2008 13.90 €

92/100 Domaine Dominique Pabiot Cuvée Plaisir 2010 12.70 €

91/100 Le Domaine Saget Roches 2008 n/a

90/100 Les Charmilles Vintage 2010 n/a

90/100 Domaine Serge Dagueneau & filles

Clos des Chaudoux 2008 18.00 €

90/100 Domaine Chauveau Cuvée Sainte Clélie 2009 9.00 €

90/100 Domaine Champeau Silex 2010 7.50 €

SANCERRE A.C. Domaine Jean-Max RogerVieilles Vignes 2008Light yellow. Expressive nosewith exotic accents (mango,grapefruit). The palate is rich, fulland delicate. More of the same very convincingaromatics carried over impressive length. An excellentwine pairing with noble fish or shellfish.

93/100

SAUMUR PUY-NOTRE-DAMEDomaine de la Paleine Moulin des Quints 2008 Concentrated hue. Distinctive nosewith vegetal-like aromatics (bellpepper) backed by spice and ripefruits. An authentic, no frills style buoyed by typicalCabernet Franc aromas framed by supple stuffingand melted tannins. Extremely successful achievement.

92/100


a wine grower and to leverage

all the property’s assets. The

engineer and wine maker Pierre

Guérin currently provides her

support and draws on the

experience of a team of 30

specialists to analyse each

stage of the process: planting

rights, marketing targets, choice

of viticultural and wine making

techniques, compliance with

regulations, dealings with

the relevant authorities and

suppliers…

After a thorough audit, an

investment plan was drawn up

and the estate was literally

transformed in just a few years.

The consultancy’s expertise and

commitment to the local wine

community ensured that success

came quickly. The estate rapidly

grew by 25 percent in size, the

profile of the wines was raised

and bottle sales saw a quantum

leap to nearly 100 % and

conservation of this magical

site was ensured by compliance with

“Nutrition Méditerranéenne”

specifications - achievements

that would normally have taken

a generation to accomplish.

ADVERTORIAL

Domaine de Saint-Ser:the jewel in the Sainte-Victoire crownDomaine de Saint-Ser’s 33 hectares of vines

are entirely located within the Côtes de

Provence Sainte-Victoire appellation area which boasts its own idiosyncratic

geology and climate. The vines bask in exceptional sunshine on hillsides facing

due south where the white mountain stone magnifies the sun’s rays.

T his sunlight promotes

photosynthesis and

leads to greater fruit

concentration. The clay-

limestone soil is stony, poor and

exceptionally deep. It has built

up from the erosion of the Sainte-

Victoire mountain towering

above the estate and promotes

regular growth in the vineyard.

Integrated pest management is

used and the soils are enriched

only with organic fertilisers.

The vines are trellised to promote

healthy fruit. The climate is

Mediterranean with a distinct

continental influence and the

cool nights preserve the natural

acidity of the grapes.

FAST-TRACKSWITCH TOA NEW VOCATION

When Parisian pharmacist

Jacqueline Guichot took over

the estate in 2006, she recruited

the assistance of Provence

agronomic consultancy CAP to

help her in her new challenge as

PIERRE GUÉRIN, CAPCONSULTANT WINEMAKER RESPONSIBLEFOR DOMAINE DE

SAINT-SER

JACQUELINE GUICHOT,A PARISIAN

PHARMACIST, TOOKOVER THE ESTATE

IN 2006

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Domaine de Saint-SerRoute Cézanne - D17 - 13114 Puyloubier - FranceTel: +33 (0)4 42 66 30 81 - Fax: +33 (0)4 42 66 37 51

[email protected] - www.saint-ser.com

Cabinet d’Agronomie Provençale (CAP consultancy)Route des Vins sur Caramy - 83170 Brignoles

www.cabagronomie.fr




RHÔNE VALLEY

Châteauneuf-du-Pape A.C.

96/100 Domaine Galévan Saint-Georges 2009 52.00 €

95/100 Château de la Gardine

Cuvée des Générations Gaston Philippe 2007 54.00 €

94/100 Château Mont-Redon Vintage 2009 20.00 €

94/100 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret

Cuvée Exceptionnelle 2007 24.00 €

94/100 Domaine Juliette Avril Cuvée Maxence 2009 37.40 €

94/100 Domaine des 3 Cellier Privilège 2009 35.00 €

94/100 Patrice Lesec Cuvée Bargeton 2005 65.00 €

93/100 Château Simian Les Grandes Grenachières 2009 47.00 €

93/100 Clos Saint Pierre Urbi 2009 25.00 €

92/100 Domaine de la Mordorée La Reine des Bois 2009 44.00 €

91/100 Domaine de Nalys Eicelènci 2009 30.00 €

91/100 Bosquet des Papes Chante Le Merle -


90/100 Domaine Moulin-Tacussel Vintage 2009 22.00 €

90/100 Château Beauchêne Grande Réserve 2009 5.60 €

90/100 Lavau Vintage 2010 17.90 €

Condrieu A.C.

93/100 Domaine Grangier Les Terrasses 2009 22.00 €

90/100 Domaine Boissonnet Vintage 2009 23.00 €

Cornas A.C.

94/100 Domaine Courbis La Sabarotte 2007 44.00 €

93/100 Domaine Michelas - St Jemms Les Murettes 2009 25.00 €

Costières de Nîmes A.C.

92/100 Château de Valcombe Garance 2009 16.00 €

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90/100 Domaine Ott Château Romassan 2007 22.50 €

Coteaux d'Aix en Provence A.C.

90/100 Château Vignelaure Vintage 2005 20.50 €

Coteaux Varois En Provence A.C.

91/100 Domaine du Deffends Champs de la Truffière 2007 11.80 €

90/100 Château d'Ollières Clos de L'Ermitage 2009 17.50 €

Côtes de Provence A.C.

92/100 Château Saint-Pierre Cuvée Baptiste 2004 16.00 €

92/100 Château de Peyrassol Vintage 2010 14.00 €

92/100 Château Roubine Terre de Croix 2006 17.20 €

92/100 Château Minuty Prestige 2010 15.00 €

91/100 Jas d'Esclans Vintage 2010 8.20 €

90/100 Château de Berne Cuvée Spéciale 2010 n/a

90/100 Château la Tour de l'Evêque

Habillage Noir et Or 2005 20.50 €

90/100 Château Sainte Roseline Cuvée Prieuré 2009 16.20 €

90/100 Château des Demoiselles Vintage 2010 10.60 €

90/100 Clos Cibonne Cuvée Prestige Caroline 2009 16.00 €

90/100 Domaine de la Croix Eloge 2010 13.00 €

Côtes de Provence La Londe A.C.

91/100 Domaine de l'Angueiroun Prestige 2009 15.30 €

90/100 Domaine Saint André de Figuière

Confidentielle 2009 26.30 €

Les Baux de Provence A.C.

92/100 Château Romanin Vintage 2007 17.00 €

91/100Mas de la Dame Coin Caché 2008 20.00 €



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91/100Mas des Bressades Cuvée Excellence 2009 9.50 €

90/100 Château Mourgues du Gres

Les Capitelles 2009 13.50 €

90/100 Château Saint-Louis La Perdrix

Cuvée Marianne 2010 8.52 €

Côte Rôtie A.C.

96/100 Domaine Pichat Les Grandes Places 2008 48.00 €

95/100 Domaine Niero Vintage 2009 28.00 €

94/100 Benjamin et David Duclaux Maison Rouge 2009 45.00 €

93/100 De Boisseyt-Chol Côte Blonde 2009 36.00 €

93/100 Domaine André François Gerine 2005 28.00 €

93/100 Domaine Chambeyron Vintage 2008 25.00 €

91/100 Domaine de Rosiers Vintage 2009 27.00 €

Côtes du Rhône A.C.

90/100 Domaine Nicolas Croze L'Epicurienne 2009 9.80 €

90/100 Brézème Bresemus Eram 2007 21.00 €

Côtes du Rhône-Villages A.C.

90/100 Vieux Manoir du Frigoulas Cuvée Dionysos 2007 5.70 €

Crozes-Hermitage A.C.

90/100 Domaine Betton Caprice 2009 13.00 €

Gigondas A.C.

93/100 Domaine Brusset Les Hauts de Montmirail 2009 21.00 €

Hermitage A.C.

95/100 Domaine des Remizières Cuvée Emilie 2009 33.70 €

95/100 Romain Duvernay Vintage 2009 28.50 €

Lirac A.C.

90/100 Domaine Maby Nessun Dorma 2009 15.90 €

Luberon A.C.

90/100 Château La Verrerie Grand Deffand 2006 27.00 €

Saint-Joseph A.C.

92/100 Domaine Farjon Ma Sélection 2009 13.00 €

90/100 Cave de Saint-Désirat Septentrio 2008 12.80 €

90/100 Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne Vintage 2007 15.00 €

90/100 Guy Farge terre de granit 2009 13.00 €

Vacqueyras A.C.

93/100 1717 Vintage 2009 31.00 €

Vinsobres A.C.

92/100 Clos des Echalas Vintage 2007 23.00 €

SOUTH-WEST

Cahors A.C.

93/100 Château Eugénie Haute Collection 2008 20.00 €

93/100 Château Pineraie L'Authentique 2008 20.00 €

91/100 Château du Cèdre Le Cèdre 2008 30.00 €



91/100 Château de Gaudou Réserve de Caillau 2009 25.00 €

91/100 Clos Triguedina Baldès Prestige 2008 29.00 €

91/100Mas del Périé La Roque 2009 12.00 €

90/100 Château de Haute-Serre Malbec 2008 13.90 €

90/100 Château de Mercuès Malbec 2008 13.50 €

90/100 Château Haut-Monplaisir Pur Plaisir 2007 7.00 €

Haut-Montravel A.C.

95/100 Château Dauzan la Vergne

Elevé en fûts de chêne 2001 13.90 €

93/100 Puy-Servain Terremont 2007 18.90 €

Jurançon A.C.

94/100 Domaine Cauhapé Noblesse du Temps 2008 28.50 €

94/100 Domaine Bru-Baché

L'Eminance du Domaine Bru-Baché 2006 50.00 €

91/100 Domaine Nigri ”Toute une Histoire” 2009 14.00 €

Madiran A.C.

97/100 Château Montus La Tyre 2005 n/a

90/100 Château Viella Prestige 2008 12.00 €

90/100 Château Bouscassé Vintage 2008 n/a

90/100 Domaine Capmartin L'esprit du Couvent 2008 17.00 €

Monbazillac A.C.

90/100 Château Bélingard Blanche de Bosredon 2007 24.00 €

Montravel A.C.

90/100 L'Excellence du Château Le Castellot Vintage 2003 12.00 €

Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec A.C.

90/100 Château Laffitte-Teston Ericka 2009 9.10 €

Pécharmant A.C.

91/100 Château de Tiregand Grand Vintage 2008 19.80 €

Pineau des Charentes A.C.

90/100 Domaine du Feynard Vieux Pineau blanc 16.00 €

MADIRAN A.C. Château de Viella Prestige 2008 Inky hue. Very classic nose of ripe blackberry fruits coupled with slightly roastedoak. On the palate, huge density,abundant tannins yet ripe, elegant andharmonious across the palate. A youngwine with all the prerequisite qualities to mature well.

90/100


Saussignac A.C.

92/100 Château Court-Les-Mûts 50 cl 2005 n/a

Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne

95/100 Domaine du Tariquet Les Dernières Grives 2009 14.00 €

92/100 Domaine La Hitaire Jardin d'Hiver 2009 8.50 €

Vin de Pays du Comté Tolosan

90/100 Blanc Renaissance Vintage 2010 7.60 €

OTHER VINEYARDS

CORSICA

Muscat du Cap Corse A.C.

90/100 Domaine Gentile Vintage 2010 17.50 €

Vin de Corse Calvi A.C.

90/100 Clos Culombu Ribbe Rosse 2009 18.30 €

Vin de Corse Figari A.C.

90/100 Domaine de Tanella

Grande Réserve de la Cuvée Alexandra 2009 15.00 €

JURA

Arbois A.C.

90/100 Jacques Tissot Naturé 2009 9.80 €

90/100 Domaine Amélie Guillot Savagnin -


Château-Chalon A.C.

90/100 Fruitière Vinicole de Voiteur Vin Jaune 2004 26.75 €

L'Etoile A.C.

90/100 Domaine de Montbourgeau Vin Jaune 2004 28.00 €

SAVOY

Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron A.C.

91/100 Les Fils de René Quénard La Bergeronnelle 2010 12.00 €

VIN DE TABLE

91/100 Grains Folie d'Inès Vintage 2007 18.00 €


REGION

T he wines of South West France are classified into 18

AOPs (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) and 21 IGPs

(Indication Géographique Protégée). They come from

some of the oldest vineyards in France, which cover a total area

of 50,000 hectares. The viticultural region stretches from

Irouléguy, close to the Pyrenees, some 500 kilometres north-

east of Toulouse, to include the tiny, new AOP of Entraygues et

Fel. The region as a whole produces 450 million bottles, has

5000 vignerons, 1000 independent producers, 23 cooperative

wineries and 20 brokers.

DISAPPOINTINGThis region is far from insignificant: its production volume is

over twice that of Burgundy (excluding Beaujolais), and deserves

our attention. Yet if one was to visit an average wine shop in

London and ask for a bottle of wine from the South West of

France, the choice would not be staggering - or rather, it would

be staggeringly small, given the favourable quality-to-price

ratio. Wines from this part of France tend to be restricted to

specialist, independent merchants. While this is good for the

Richard Craig asks: are these wines suffering from an identity crisis?

The mysterious wines of South West France

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THE WINESOF SOUTHWEST COVERA TOTALAREA OF50,000HECTARES



merchants, constantly striving for points of difference, it is not

good for volume sales, the economy of the region and the

wealth of its people. So why does this happen?

PERCEPTIONThe wines of South West France lie in the shadow of mighty

Bordeaux in terms of volume and economic wealth. Many city

folk in London, New York and Hong Kong spend several

thousand euros on Bordeaux en primeur and believe that red

wine production in France begins in the Haut Médoc and ends

in Saint-Emilion. It is a common perception that the wines of

the Sud-Ouest are cheaper, less good versions of Bordeaux.

DORDOGNE, IN OR OUT?This can be true of the AOP’s of Bergerac whose viticultural

boundaries are adjacent to AOP Bordeaux and whose grape

varieties are almost identical. In fact, before the viticultural

boundaries were drawn up and delimited to the department of

Gironde, the wines of Bergerac and its surrounding area were

sold successfully as generic Bordeaux. Nowadays, going it

alone, it has been more of a struggle. Bergerac’s wine-growing

region consists of 13 different red, white and rosé AOPs spread

over 93 communes and covering an area of 12,000 hectares. The

red wines are certainly very bordelais in character, consisting of

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with very

few producers using the permitted Cot, Fer Servadou and

Merille (a grape usually used for Vin de Table).

The red wines appellations within the Bergerac viticultural

area are - in ascending order of quality - Bergerac Rouge, Côtes

du Bergerac, Montravel and Pécharmant. Montravel was granted

AOC for its white wines in 1937 but it was not until 2001 that

the red wines were included. Today, of the 1,800,000 litres

produced, only 200,000 are red. These high quality reds must

contain at least 50% Merlot, with the remainder being the

Cabernets and Cot. Good producers include Château Moulin

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THE LOVELY AND FAMOUS CHÂTEAU DE MONBAZILLAC IN THE BERGERAC AREA


REGION

THE 2,400 HECTARES OF FRONTONVINEYARDS HAVE BEEN

AOC-CLASSIFIED SINCE 1975

Garreau, Château Moulin Caresse, Château Puy Servain and

Clos Julien.

Pécharmant (meaning charming hill) is solely a red wine AOP

and can be found to the north-east of the town of Bergerac.

The AOC was granted in 1936 and encompasses the communes

of Bergerac, Creysse and Lemras. As in Montravel, due to the

declining moderating maritime influence, the earlier ripening

Merlot dominates the blends. Look out for Château Tiregand,

Domaine des Costes, Domaine de Closerie and Domaine du

Haut-Pécharmant.

The wines of Bergerac are not blessed with an identity that one

can latch on to. Is it in Bordeaux or Sud-Ouest? The truth is

that no-one is really sure. Undoubtedly the quality is forever

rising, with many producers adopting organic viticulture and

non-interventionist winemaking practices. The Conseil

Interprofessionnel des Vins de la Région de Bergerac makes

strenuous efforts to promote the region and is successful, with

quality and value being the main focus. An £8 bottle of

Bergerac is likely to offer far more interest and enjoyment

than a bottle of Bordeaux at the same price.

DEFINITELY NOT BORDEAUXBeyond Bergerac, the “tastes like Bordeaux” charge is less justified.

Merlots and Cabernets, whilst permitted in most regions,

becomes less dominant, with local varieties becoming more

prevalent. These local varieties are great for wine diversity but

a nightmare for marketeers, particularly when the same grapes

are known by different names in different areas, as is often the

case. They are however still marketed - quite rightly - as wines

with a difference. The problem is that most consumers are not

drawn to “different” and hence most professional wine buyers

do not buy these “different” wines. Changing people's habits to

include a new taste sensation is not going to happen overnight

but it is a truly worthwhile quest.

THE TASKThe vineyards of the South-West date back to Roman times

and tradition still plays an important role in the wines of

today. Many of the AOCs and the newly promoted AOPs are

quite remote geographically and inward-looking. The

Interprofession des Vins du Sud-Ouest has faced an up-hill

struggle to amalgamate this diverse and fragmented region of

5,000 wine makers, persuading them to adopt a coherent marketing

and export plan. Exports constitute only 15% of total sales. If

one compares the task faced by the Interprofession des Vins

du Sud-Ouest with that of similar trade and marketing bodies

in Burgundy (where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay varietals are

easy to pronounce and non-blended) or in Provence (where

the huge success of Provence rosé begs the question, “do they

produce anything else?”), one can understand their difficulties.

THE ONE AND ONLYThe 2,400 hectares of Fronton vineyards have been AOC-classified

since 1975. The almost unique Négrette variety (locally

known as Folle Noire) thrives on the ferrous quartz and gravel

soils of the appellation. This variety is almost unknown anywhere

else, save for a tiny acreage in Lavilledieu, between the Tarn

and Garonne rivers, just north of Fronton and also, bizarrely,

in California where it is known as Pinot St George. In Fronton,

it is stipulated that Négrette, high in colour but low in acidity

and tannins, must constitute 50% of the appellation's reds,

with Fer Servadou, Syrah and the Cabernets making up the

rest of the blends to give the wines more power. There are

however a number of producers making wines of 100% Négrette

(for example, Château Bellevue La Forêt's cuvée Ce Vin) still

labelled as AOP Fronton, so clearly it is a flexible stipulation.

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WINE BARSToday, many Cahors wines, particularly those from the lower

slopes and alluvial flats of the Lot River, are of a much less

challenging nature. Yields are higher, production volumes are

greater, percentages of Merlot higher, and the individuality of

MALBEC OR...?Cahors is Malbec, Cot, Cot Noire or Auxerrois country, depending

on opinion. The 4,200 hectares were awarded full AOC status

in 1971 and the wines must contain at least 70% Malbec, with

the remaining percentage being either Tannat and/or Merlot.

Cahors is refreshingly unique in South West France in not

permitting Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc in the

blends. The traditional “black wine” of the Lot is now almost

non-existent. The wine that comes closest is made by Clos

Triguedina: it is 100% Cot and named “The New Black Wine -

cuvée L’Exception.”

TERROIR-DRIVENIsabelle Rey-Auriat makes three wines from her organic 14-

hectare estate in the commune of Soturac. Her top wine,

Cuvée ‘A’, is 100% Vieille Vignes Cot from a 3.5-hectare

vineyard on the plateau. It is full, rich and broody, but retains

its elegance. Château Les Hauts d’Aglan (7 hectares, from the

same high plateau) is 90% Cot, 10% Merlot (a restrained and

vibrant wine); Château Marjolière, coming from the lower

slopes with 20% Merlot, is ripe and pure. Oak does not feature

in any of Isabelle's wines, as she prefers the varietal characteristics

and the terroir of her vineyard to shine through.

THE GREAT SITE OF CHÂTEAU LESBOUYSSES, ONE OF THE MAJORESTATES IN THE APPELLATION

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THE FAMOUS PONT VALENTRÉ IN CAHORS, ABOVE THE RIVER LOT


REGION

the wines has decreased. These wines are increasingly being

labelled as Malbec (a variety that is very successful in its

Argentinian guise) and are now finding success in wine bars

amongst francophile drinkers.

TANNIC TANNATThe 1,400 hectares of AOP Madiran straddle the departments

of Hautes-Pyrénées, Gers and Pyrénées-Atlantiques. The area

has 200 producers who make 60,000 hectolitres of wine.

Tannat is the main red variety in Madiran where it has to make

up 40% (and not more than 60%) of the blend. The remainder

can be from Bouchy (Cabernet Sauvignon) and Pinenc (Fer or

Fer Servadou). In practice, the upper limit does not appear to

be enforced, as many examples exist of 100% Tannat.

With his two estates, Château Montus and Château Bouscasse,

Alain Brumont is clearly a leading figure in the appellation: he

has 300 hectares of vines producing 1.6 million bottles. The

12-hectare estate Domaine Pichard (not owned by Brumont

Enterprises) is in the commune of Soublecause. It was first

planted to vines in 1955 by Auguste Vigneau. His aim was to

produce long-lived, structured wines, a tradition continued by

his nephew René Tachouère. In 2004, unable to pass on the

estate to his son, René sold the estate to brothers-in-law Jean

Sentilles and Rod Cork. The estate has received much-needed

investment in the vineyard, and the cellar has been modernised.

The wines have hence changed. Whilst clearly Madiran, Jean

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THE MADIRAN AREA HAS 200 PRODUCERS WHO MAKE 60,000 HECTOLITRES OF WINE

TANNAT IS THE MAIN RED VARIETY IN MADIRAN

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Sentilles has instigated a more modern style of wine making

like many winegrowers in the region, using shorter maceration,

micro-oxygenation and barrique ageing to produce wines

approachable when young but with ageing potential. Other

top estates include Domaine Capmartin, Domaine

Berthoumieu and the excellent regional co-operative Plaimont

Producteurs.

Gaillac has had AOC status for its red wines since 1970, and

for its whites since 1938. Due to its perfect vine-growing

conditions, a huge variety of wines and styles are made. The

red Duras variety, related to Petit Verdot, is almost exclusive to

Gaillac. It produces fairly robust and rustic wines and is

usually blended with Braucol (Fer Servadou) and Syrah. These

three must make up to 60% of the blend. The Cabernets,

Merlot and Gamay are also allowed, though the Gamay is

usually made as a single varietal, Gaillac Nouveau.

The appellation of Marcillac, granted in 1990, is situated to

the north-west of Rodez, in the Aveyron department. It is

small (170 hectares) and produces 8,000 hectolitres of red

wine only. It is also practically a monoculture, with Mansois

(Fer Servadou) making up 90% of the wines (the remaining

10% comes from Prunelard, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot).

The 210-hectare AOP of Irouléguy lies in the foothills of the

Pyrenees: it produces 550,000 litres of wine, 70% of which is

red. This Basque country vineyard sticks closely to its very own

grape nomenclature, with Bordelesa Beltza being Tannat,

Axeria being Cabernet Franc and Axeria Handia being

Cabernet Sauvignon. These are the only grapes allowed for the

red wines. La Cave Irouléguy is the main producer, but good

wines are produced by Peio Espil’s Domaine Ilaria (only 2,500

cases are made) and Domaine Brana.

PERSONAL PERSONALITYIt is a conundrum for many as to how the South West region

should be represented on the world stage. However fun the

idea of ordering a glass of Fer Servadou, Auxerrois or

Bordelesa Beltza in a metropolitan wine bar might be, it is

highly unlikely to happen. Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Merlot and

the very trendy Malbec are the norm. However, the thought of

the wines of the Sud-Ouest going down this route of copy-cat

varieties, producing wines lacking in identity, provenance and

interest, fills me with dread. They would become lost in the

sea of mediocrity that is often found in generic wines. Many

producers are now making less-challenging wines “in the style

of” Madiran, Gaillac, Marcillac and so on which are gaining market

share in bars and restaurants. These wines are also providing the

population at large with an introduction to the region's wines.

Different flavours, different grapes, different nomenclature

plus education and perseverance will no doubt delight an

ever-more curious and adventurous public.Richard Craig



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GAILLAC USE SOME AMAZING VARIETIES LIKE DURAS AND BRAUCOL

Champagne is the best sparkling

wine in the world - or rather, let

me qualify this statement by

saying that the best Champagnes

are the best sparkling wines in

the world. There is however an

awful lot of mediocre and

occasionally poor Champagne on

the market from the big houses,

cooperatives and growers alike.

With prices of Champagne

reaching astronomical levels,

(Moet & Chandon NV currently

sells in New York for around $40,

and in London for £30), in these

difficult times it might well be a

good idea not only to switch your

brand, but to switch your region.

Sparkling wines are made throughout France and many of

them are seriously worth consideration and purchasing,

not just for economic reasons but also for variety. After

the top Champagnes, Crémants are the next at the top of the

quality tree of French sparkling wines.

There are 7 AOC Crémants in France, namely d'Alsace, de

Bordeaux, de Bourgogne, de Die, de Jura, de Limoux and de Loire.

It is stipulated that the grapes for all Crémants must be hand-

harvested, yields should not exceed that of the AOC, and the

wines need to be aged for at least one year after dégorgement

before release. They are made in the traditional method where a

second fermentation takes place in the bottle, ageing on lees

followed by remuage, dégorgement and dosage.


QUALITY FACTORS

Sparkling wine:bubbling over with success

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QUALITY FACTORS


THE BIG THREECrémant d'Alsace was granted AOC-status in 1975 and

production is around 250,000 hectolitres a year, which is 21% of

the total AOC Alsace wine production. Pinot Blanc is the main

variety, with Riesling, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and

Chardonnay also used. Rosé Crémant d'Alsace can only be made

from Pinot Noir. Sales in 2010 in France were up by 12% on the

previous year. Excluding Champagne, it is the highest selling

“drink at home” sparkling wine. Exports are also up by 19%, and

a staggering 176% up on 2008.

The Loire Valley is the largest sparkling wine producing region

outside Champagne, though by no means all the production is

THERE ARE 7 AOC CRÉMANTS IN FRANCE, NAMELY D'ALSACE, DE BORDEAUX, DE BOURGOGNE, DE DIE,

DE JURA, DE LIMOUX AND DE LOIRE

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Other sparklingwinesThere is another category of

sparkling appellation wines, this

time regional in scope, which can

only be made from the grape

varieties permitted for local still

wines and within a delineated area.

They are also made using the

traditional method with an initial

alcoholic fermentation followed by a

secondary fermentation in the bottle.

The Loire Valley is home to most of these wines, primarily

dry sparkling Saumur which is key to the success of the

reputable houses such as Veuve Amiot or Bouvet-

Ladubay. However, the Touraine appellations market a vast range of

wines from independent growers, made in conjunction with local

still appellation wines. This sets them apart from the other areas

and is true of Vouvray and Montlouis though especially of the dry

sparkling Touraine appellation with an output of 30,000 hectolitres.

These premium sparkling wines - or fines bulles as they are called - are

made primarily from Chenin, the great Touraine white grape

variety. It has an assertive personality and makes marvellous dry,

medium dry, sweet and… sparkling wines. Domaine des

Souterrains, located in Châtillon sur Cher (Loir et Cher) is one such

producer. Wine has been made here continuously since 1820. In

1982, it became one of the first producers in the region to supply

traditional method sparkling wines.

Like Crémants and even the prestigious Champagne, the wine

making process comprises several different phases. The first begins

with the filtered wine being bottled after the liqueur has been

added. This is usually a mixture of sugar and yeast designed to

produce a second fermentation in the bottle that will produce the

effervescence.


QUALITY FACTORS

Crémant. Crémant de Loire was recognised as an AOC in 1975 and

in 2009 it produced 93,355 hectolitres, the vast majority of which

is in the hands of cooperatives and négociants in and around the

town of Saumur. The AOC area covers Anjou, Touraine and Saumur

and currently there are 1,600 hectares, planted predominantly with

Chenin Blanc, but also Chardonnay (increasingly important),

Arbois, Pinot Noir, Grolleau, La d'Aunis and Cabernet Franc.

Sauvignon Blanc is allowed though deemed unsuitable and rarely

used. Important AOCs within the all-encompassing Crémant de

Loire are Saumur Brut, Vouvray and Montlouis.

There are 1.6 million bottles of Crémant de Bourgogne exported

each year accounting for 8% of Burgundy's total wine production.

The main areas of production are Auxerre,

Chatillon-sur-Seine and the Côte Chalonnaise, principally Rully;

1,115 hectares are planted. Authorised grape varieties are

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Aligoté, Melon, Sacy and

Gamay “jus blanc” (maximum 20%). Mimicking Champagne, there

are four different categories of Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc which

must contain at least 30% of Chardonnay or Pinot Noir; Blanc de

Blancs, 100% Chardonnay; Blanc de Noirs, 100% Pinot Noir and

Crémant Rose, Pinot Noir and a small percentage of Gamay.

INTERESTING AND OBSCURECrémant de Die, recognised as recently as 1993, is the appellation

for the dry sparkling wine from the town of Die in the Rhône. It

must be made with at least 55% Clairette, with the addition of

Muscat à Petit Grains and Aligoté.

THE CAVE DE LUGNY, IN MACON,PRODUCES ABOUT 800,000 BOTTLES

OF SPARKLING WINE PER YEAR


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The second phase involves cellaring the bottles at a temperature of

13°C. By law, this stage must last for a minimum of nine months

and its purpose is to promote the transformation of sugar into

alcohol by the yeast, producing carbonic gas. Ultimately, pressure

will reach 5kg inside the bottle.

In the third phase, the bottles are placed onto riddle racks so that

the sediment - produced by fermentation - slips down into the

neck of the bottle. To achieve this, the bottles are turned every day

for a period of 15 to 18 days.

The ultimate phase is disgorgement whereby the sediment is

removed. Part of the bottle neck is frozen to trap the sediment

then, as the cork is removed, the ice is expelled by the pressure

that has accumulated during the secondary fermentation. Before

the bottle is corked for the last time, the dosage is added. The

amount of sugar it contains will determine whether the sparkling

wine is dry or medium dry.

Clearly, the wine making criteria for these wines are very bit as

stringent as those of the more prestigious appellations. Moreover,

they are often made from highly idiosyncratic local grape varieties

which gives them added charm. And last but by no means least:

the price tag. They rarely cost more than 5 or 6 euros a bottle.

Sparkling wines are an integral part of the Touraine wine heritage.

They are just begging to be rediscovered.

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these are juicy, attractive and generally less acidic wines than

more northern sparklers.

Blanquette de Limoux is the traditional sparkling wine of the

Languedoc. In 1989 in an attempt to modernise wine production

and produce more international wines, producers were asked

whether they wished to preserve the traditional makings of

Blanquette, based on Mauzac, or change to allow Chardonnay and

Chenin Blanc to infiltrate. The growers could not make up their

minds, so now both exist side by side; the traditional Blanquette

de Limoux must contain at least 90% of Mauzac in the blend.

Château Rives-Blanques is a 30-hectare estate, situated on a 350-

metre plateau close to the village of Cépie. It has been owned for

over a decade by Jan and Caryl Panman; with their longstanding

winemaker Eric Vialade they produce very fine sparkling Limoux

wines, both traditional and modern.


QUALITY FACTORS

Jean-Pierre Archard's Domaine Archard-Vincent 18-hectare estate

is farmed organically and has been since 1975. His vineyards are

hand-harvested and organically fertilized; he uses wild yeasts and

only the tiniest addition of copper and sulphur. The estate is

certified Ecocert and Nature & Progress.

Crémant de Bordeaux can be made from all the varieties allowed

for Bordeaux Rouge and Blanc. Crémant de Bordeaux can be made

throughout the Gironde département, making it the largest

sparkling wine appellation in France. Unfortunately only 185

hectares are planted and a mere 10,680 hectolitres are produced -

and this figure is declining.

Crémant de Limoux is the appellation created in 1990 for the

modern sparkling wines of Languedoc, predominantly made from

Chenin Blanc (which is unusual, given that this variety is not

well-suited to the heat of the Languedoc) and Chardonnay.

Mauzac and Pinot Noir play a minor role in the production.

VERY INTERESTINGAND SPECIALCrémant du Jura, created in 1995, can be either white or rosé

and is made from Poulsard Trousseau, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay

and Savagnin; 17,000 hectolitres are produced every year.

Domaine de la Pinte is a 34-hectare estate that has practiced

organic cultivation since 1999. In 2009 they went that one step

further and started farming according to biodynamic principles.

Their Crémant is made from 80% Chardonnay and 20%

Savagnin grown on marnes bleues de Lias, a soil high in fossils

and iron. Whilst not as distinctive as the region's still wines,

IN 2009 DOMAINE DE LA PINTESTARTED FARMING ACCORDING TO

BIODYNAMIC PRINCIPLES

JAN AND CARYL PANMAN PRODUCE VERY FINE SPARKLING

LIMOUX WINES

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ALMOST UNKNOWN AND RAREFrom the same region (though not made by Château Rives-

Blanques) is Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale, 100% Mauzac, a

slightly sweet, low alcohol (7%), cloudy, effervescent rather than

fully sparkling wine. The wine is bottled early when fermentation

stalls in the winter. Though lightly filtered, the wine still contains

residual sugar and fine yeast particles which start to re-ferment

when temperatures rise. It is not disgorged, hence the cloudiness.

Appellation Bourgogne Mousseux was created in 1943 for the

sparkling red wines of Burgundy. It is made from Pinot Noir and

Gamay predominantly, but can contain up to 15% Chardonnay,

Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Caesar. It can be made in 400

communes from Chablis to Beaujolais with the resulting

differences in style, however only 600 hectares are planted.

Gaillac has perfect conditions for all vine growing so it is not

surprising that sparkling wine is part of their range, made from

Len de l'El (meaning corner of the eye), Mauzac, Ondenc and

Muscadelle. These wines can be made by Méthode Traditionelle,

as for Champagne, or Méthode Gaillacoise, which is the same as

Méthode Ancestrale. In addition, Gaillac produces Perle, a

pétillant wine, bottled before malolactic fermentation takes place,

giving a refreshing spritz to some fairly mediocre base wines.

Clairette de Die was granted AOC-status in 1942. It is made from

at least 75% Muscat à Petit Grains, the remainder being Clairette;

however, some of the best Clairettes are confusingly 100% Muscat.

Production is again similar to Méthode Ancestrale, locally called

Dioise. Pleasingly, there is plenty of Clairetted de Die made (some

90,000 hectolitres a year). The Cave de Jaillance cooperative

contributes to 80% of the total production, with the best

independent producer being Domaine Archard-Vincent.

NO SIGN OF THE BUBBLEBURSTING YET... Champagne sales are still remarkably buoyant. In 2010, 319

million bottles of Champagne were sold worldwide. We are no

longer at the dizzy heights of 2000 and yes, a dip occurred in

2008/2009, but since then, a strong recovery has been seen. It is

not just the new markets of Russia (up 88%), China (up 90%) and

Brazil (up 63%) that have helped exports; sales in the UK in 2010

were 16% up, and even the US, with its own developed sparkling

wine industry, was up 34% on the previous year. The five biggest

markets for non-Champagne French sparkling wine - namely the

US, Germany, UK, Belgium and Japan - have all seen significant

increases in demand.

The figures are irrefutable, the world is drinking more sparkling

wine. New markets are being developed in the Far East and South

America, with Crémant de Bourgogne a particularly successful

export. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are instantly recognisable in

foreign parts as the grapes of Burgundy and also Champagne.

The quality of the Crémants and vins mousseux across the board is

higher than ever, marketing is more sophisticated, feeding off the

unsatiable demand for Champagne which shows no signs of

diminishing. However, this demand should not be taken for

granted, as there are many other excellent sparkling wines

beginning to appear on the world stage - for example, those from

England, which are small in quantity, but tall in stature.

Richard Craig

CRÉMANT D’ALSACE A.C. Cave de Turckheim Brut MayerlingPale yellow. Nose of fairlyfresh white fruits with a touchof biscuit after swirling. Onthe palate, lively entry flowinginto a fleshier mid-palate. Thefragrances are focused and crunchy even on the finish.

85/100

CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE A.C. Moulin des Verny Cuvée ExcellencePale yellow with greenisht i n t s and wonde r f u leffervescence. Pleasantnose with delicate aromasof white flowers. On thepalate, savoury honesty, vinosity and focus. A nicelydry Crémant in a very drinkable style.

86/100

VOUVRAY A.C. Domaine du Clos de l'EpinayTête de cuvée 2007Light gold. Intense nose withaccents of wild flowers, driedfruits and cellar notes. Full,unctuous palate showingseductively refined bubblesand focused fruity and mineral fragrances that linger. Alively, full-bodied wine pairing well with grilled fish.

87/100

FuLL contAct detAILS For theSe eStAteS cAn Be Found on pAGe 114

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WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

www.toutigeac.com

“For us here the emphasis is on producing fruity, early-drinking

wines each year,” she comments. Mostly red is produced, predominantly

from Merlot (with some Cabernet) and 10% of white wine

The day starts early for Oriane Mazeau, the young wine

producer at Château Toutigeac in Bordeaux’s Entre-

Deux-Mers. First job of the day is the instruction of the

team of six people regarding what needs to be done in the

vineyards and in the cellars. As with many middle- to large-sized

properties producing generic wine (appellation Bordeaux), there

is no luxury of having a vineyard manager (chef de culture) or a cellar

manager (maître de chai). Her semi-retired father Philippe helps

her run the estate. Much of the rest of the day is then dedicated to

the commercial side of the business. It was her father who took

the wise decision to stop selling in bulk in the 1970s and to bottle

at the property, selling direct to the customer. Bottling facilities at

the property give added flexibility and means that customers'

demands can be quickly fulfilled.

PROSPECTING: EXPORTING FURTHER AFIELD75% of the property’s production of 600,000 bottles is currently

exported to northern European countries such as Holland,

Belgium, Germany, Denmark, Switzerland and also to French

Polynesia. Prospecting export markets further afield into north

and south America and Asia is a daily preoccupation for Oriane.

“The most difficult challenge I face today is juggling the need to

travel and the all-important, face-to-face contact with the requirement

to be present, to ensure that the property is well-run.”

INCORPORATING A NEW GENERATIONHaving grown up en famille at Toutigeac, 30 kilometres south-east

of Bordeaux (her father’s two brothers have properties next

door), Oriane took the decision early on to follow the family

tradition and studied both viticulture and oenology. She chose

Spain’s Rioja region to complete her work experience, firstly for

the large producers Cune and after the smaller producers of Roda.

Oriane Mazeau: juggling the commercialand practical aspects of a 76-hectare estate

ORIANE MAZEAU AND HER YOUNGER BROTHER XAVIER


Oriane Mazeau: juggling the commercial and practical aspects of a 76-hectare estate

(Sauvignon, Sémillon and Muscadelle). “I came back from Rioja

with the desire to age our best wines in barrel. It was a challenge

convincing my father that the investment was worthwhile.

He agreed to letting me have three barrels and we started producing

a barrel-aged special reserve called “O”. Today we produce ten

times the amount and the wine sells well, particularly to restaurants.

It gives us a range, wines for every day and for the weekend!”

THE NEED TO MASTER DIVERSE SKILLSIn the current economic climate there are even new skills to be

mastered. “There is an ever-growing need to be able to speak the

financial language of the banks and business plans. Fortunately

this is where my younger brother Xavier excels,” says Oriane. He

is currently gaining work experience at an accountancy firm, but

she hopes he will join her in the running of the estate in the future.

AT THE GIRONDINE CHÂTEAU, ORIANE REPRESENTS THE FIFTH GENERATION OF HER FAMILY

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CONTINUITY OF WINE PRODUCTION AT THEANCIENT SITEIt was a group of monks from the nearby abbey of Sauve Majeure

that first planted vines at Toutigeac in the 12th century. As one

gazes out from the sitting room of the beautiful Girondine

château, over the rolling hills of vines, there is a feeling of

permanence and continuity. Adapting to changing market

trends over the years, Oriane represents the fifth generation of

her family to produce wine on the site. It is sure she will not

be the last.Nicolle Croft

ORIANE MAZEAUCHÂTEAU TOUTIGEAC

33760 Targon - Tel.+33 (0)5 56 23 90 10www.toutigeac.com


FAMILY BUSINESS

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Clément Fayat, best known as president of the multi-billion civil engineeringgroup BTP, bought his first vineyards in 1969, at the 23-hectare property of LaDominique in Saint-Emilion. The vines were bought initially as an investmentopportunity, but over the years M. Fayat has become sentimentally attached tothem, so that today his wine properties (including Château Clément-Pichon, HautMédoc and Château Fayat, Pomerol) are his main focus for development.

www.vignobles.fayat.com

His sons Jean-Claude (53 years) and Laurent (44 years)work with him; they are even more attached to thefamily vines, having been brought up with the properties

and their wines since childhood. Clément Fayat did not have such abackground. Born in the Corrèze in 1932, the eldest son of fivechildren, his father worked as a stone mason. It was basic Vin del’Hérault wine that accompanied his childhood, drawn from a

110-litre barrel in the cellar, consumed quickly and in quantity as aneveryday beverage by the older generation.

FIRST CONTACT WITH BORDEAUX WINEFayat’s links to the Bordeaux region go back a long way. In 1957 hesettled in Libourne and worked as a contractor in the constructionbusiness. It was not until during his national service in the Gironde at

Wine business decisions: from head to heart

Clément Fayat & his sons Jean-Claude and Laurent


the age of 20 that he first tasted “proper” wine. “In those days I hadnothing to compare the wine to, so it was difficult to be able to reallytell the difference. I sought advice on what to put in my cellar frommy fellow compatriot from the Corrèze, négociant Jean-PierreMoueix, in Libourne,” says M. Fayat. As his business developed he wasencouraged to invest in vineyards. Coming from the constructionindustry and being a self-professed “man of the earth”, a square footof land meant more to him than a square foot of vines - “on s’attacheà la terre” - so he resisted for a number of years until his purchase ofLa Dominique in 1969.

COUP DE COEUR FOR CLÉMENT-PICHON’S ARCHITECTUREDespite being an “homme de bâtiment”, M. Fayat had what theFrench call a “coup de coeur” for Château Clémént-Pichon, not for itsterroir but for its architecture. He had never before seen such qualityof construction using stone and wood. In 1976 he purchased theproperty in Parempuyre (Haut Médoc) but insisted on buying italong with its 25 hectares of land, knowing that its vines would givethe château life and durability. It became his permanent home.

FUTURE WINE TOURISM PLANSM. Fayat admits that with all of his other business interests, in the pasthis vineyards have not been his priority. Today that has changed, and79 year-old Fayat claims he has never been more motivated. Under

the direction of Yannick Evenou, his new right hand man for the pasttwo years, he has big plans for each of his properties, communicatingtheir true potential and value.

The most ambitious plans are for Château La Dominique, where amulti-million euro project is underway to build a new cellar and winetourism site designed by one of France’s premier architects, JeanNouvel (originally from the area, today he is world-renowned in hisfield). The design includes a 400-square-metre open terrace on thetop of the cellar with views of La Dominique’s illustrious neighbours,Saint-Emilion’s Figeac and Cheval Blanc, and Pomerol’s LaConseillante and l’Evangile.

Fayat is looking to expand the size of his current properties (particularlythe 23-hectare Clément-Pichon in the Haut Médoc). Here he is alsodeveloping a wine tourism site to make the most of its location closeto Bordeaux. He is also looking to invest in very high level property“at the right price,” finding current prices ridiculous. One of theFrance’s most successful business men is now turning his focus to hiswine properties, combining the forces of his head and his heart. Wehave not heard the last of Vignobles Clément Fayat.

Nicolle Croft

VIGNOBLES CLÉMENT FAYATChâteau La Dominique, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé

Château Clémént-Pichon, Haut MédocChâteau Fayat, Pomerol

www.vignobles.fayat.com33290 Parempuyre - Tel. + 33 (0)5 56 35 23 79

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Clément Fayat, Vignobles Fayat - Wine business decisions: from head to heart

FAYAT’S WINE PROPERTIES ARE HIS MAIN FOCUS FOR DEVELOPMENT


HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

The boundaries of the Cognac region more or less match those

of the Charente and Charente-Maritime departments, along the

Atlantic coastline. The region is home to a broad range of

terroirs which give the Cognac controlled appellation a unique

variety that is reflected first in the wines then enhanced by

distillation, ageing and blending.

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THE FRAPIN CELLAR MASTER'S OFFICE ILLUSTRATES THE INCREDIBLEDIVERSITY OF COGNAC

The incredible diversity of Cognac

COGNAC A.C. Bernard Boutinet X.O. Coppery-orange with bronzehighlights. Profound nosemarrying dried fruits, spicesand fig. On the palate, a fairly fiery entry leading into afull, perfumed mid-palate. The finish offers up apleasant little bouquet of spices. A classic style.



There is therefore not one Cognac, but many, each with

its own idiosyncratic perfumes and flavours. Its

diversity is undoubtedly its most prized possession as

Cognac has always been driven by consumer demand across

the world, whilst at the same upholding its traditions. Cognac

is also making a noticeable come-back in the French market

where it is mixed with tonic or served with ice as an appetiser,

yet it still retains its inimitable taste.

ORIGINSAs a brief reminder, Cognac is a wine-based brandy made

primarily from the Ugni Blanc grape variety whose natural

acidity allows it to ferment without additives. Double

distillation in a Charente pot still subsequently concentrates

the inherent fragrances of the wine (the volatile substances)

which will ultimately give character to the main bouquet

components once blending is completed; this can be with

brandies of a different origin. The distillation process has

changed little since the 17th century. Despite this, quality has

constantly improved and more emphasis has been placed on

individual sites or terroirs.

COGNAC TO THE POWER OF SIXSince 1938, the Cognac wine region has been divided into six

growths. Through their soil type, sunshine and general climate,they impart a distinct perfume, taste and therefore an identityto each Cognac. • Grande Champagne, whose reputation is based on thequality of its brandies, is the “heart” of Cognac. Its 13,000hectares of vines grow on friable limestone soils whichautomatically control water levels, protecting the vine fromexcessive or insufficient water resources. The hillsides ofGrande Champagne are bathed in outstanding sunshine andalthough yields are often lower here than elsewhere, alcoholicstrength can be higher. White wines from Grande Champagneproduce extremely refined, quite floral brandies boastingexcellent ageability. • Brandies from Petite Champagne on the other hand are


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sourced from sites where the layer of limestone is shallower.Although their characteristics are similar to those of the firstgrowth, they have slightly less finesse. • The Borderies growth is definitely worth a mention, eventhough it covers just 4,000 hectares, making it the smallest ofthe six growths. It does however boast an unmistakable micro-climate. Its brandies show perfumes of violet; they are quiteround and can be enjoyed after a shorter ageing period. • Fins Bois and Bons Bois circle the three first growths andalone account for over half the area under vine. The limestonesubsoil is quite firm and the resultant brandies are supple andearly-maturing. The maritime influence is more noticeablein the Bons Bois where the brandies are harsher and drieron the palate.• A taste of the sea develops in the maritime areas along theAtlantic coastline and the Ile de Ré and Ile d’Oléron islands.The limestone is replaced by silex and the brandies can be



CHRISTIAN THOMAS (CHÂTEAU DE BEAULON) TASTING SOME AGED COGNAC

THE CHÂTEAU DE FONTPINOT SITS AMONGST 316 HECTARES OF VINEYARDS IN SEGONZAC


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Three awards that reward quality and guarantee satisfaction. Wines bearing the Gilbert & Gaillard label have been tastedand approved by our expert tasting committee. Award-winning wines - guaranteed to meet your highest expectations.

www.gi lbertgai l lard.com

The Gilbert & Gaillard Awards:only for the best

will provide consistency whilst also addressing criteria such asvolumes.

Rémy Martin’s focus is on the reputation of its Fine

Champagne blends. The house, with its distinctive centaur

branding, blends all of its Cognacs from at least 50% of

Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne. Alongside the

branded Cognacs which account for over 80% of sales and are

mainly blends, individual growths are emerging. A significant

role is played by producers who distil their own Cognac and

address specific demand from consumers attached to a

product’s origins through sales to traditional outlets such as

the cellar door, restaurants and gourmet food stores. A case in

point is Drouet Cognac in Salle d’Angles which produces

remarkable Grande Champagne Cognacs, or Château de

Beaulon in Charente Maritime which boasts a unique range of

grape varieties (Colombard, Folle Blanche, Montils) for

producing Cognac. Similarly, some of the smaller négociants

(Delamain, A.E. Dor…) work along the same lines. The smaller

houses and estates which have little to gain from trying to

compete with the large firms by developing brands can thereby

tap into a potentially lucrative market of connoisseurs.

Gilbert & Gaillard



drunk young as they will not mature with additional oak

ageing. These are the Bois Ordinaires or the Bois terroir.

MASTERING COGNACIt would be easy to assume that the reputation of this most

famous of all brandies derived simply from an accident of

nature. Human input combines with the unique quality of the

local terroirs with the result that Cognac is widely held to be

the best brandy in the world. In actual fact, for the last three

hundred years Cognac has owed its famous destiny to the

pioneering Dutch and English traders and to the people who

have passed traditions on from one generation to the next,

improving techniques and enhancing ageing and the art of

blending.

As we have seen, no two Cognacs are the same and yet

consistency is of paramount importance for consumer loyalty.

The cellar master therefore blends brandies from different

growths and of different ages. Cognacs from the most

prominent houses - Hennessy, Rémy Martin, Frapin, Martell,

Courvoisier, Camus, Hine and many others - are made from

this “flavour alchemy”. In tasting the Cognacs, the cellar

master’s primary concern is to achieve a balanced blend that

DOUBLE DISTILLATION IN A CHARENTE POT STILL SUBSEQUENTLYCONCENTRATES THE INHERENT FRAGRANCES

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OUR PICKS

The incredible diversity of Cognac


Château de Beaulon

95/100 Château de Beaulon X.O. Collection 128.90 €Famille Estève

95/100 Très Vieille Petite Fine Champagne

Réserve de la Famille 65.00 €Cognac Otard

95/100 Cognac Extra 1795 275.46 €Cognac Frapin

95/100 Domaine Château de Fontpinot X.O. 83.00 €93/100 V.I.P. X.O. 149.00 €Cognac Otard

93/100 Cognac X.O. Gold 130.47 €Jean Fillioux

92/100 ”Très Vieux” Grande Champagne 80.00 €Cognac Rémy Martin

92/100 XO Excellence 121.00 €Cognac Frapin

92/100 Signature 79.00 €Cognac Hennessy

91/100 Hennessy X.O. 140.00 €Hardy Cognac

91/100 Hardy X.O. 70.00 €Cognac Rémy Martin

91/100 Coeur de Cognac 45.00 €

Domaine Drouet & fils

91/100 X.O. - Cuvée Ulysse 51.00 €Cognac Leyrat

90/100 Glory Extra 375.00 €90/100 ABK6 - X.O. Family Reserve 79.00 €Vignobles Bertrand Domaine Du Feynard

90/100 X.O. 45.00 €Bernard Boutinet

90/100 Cognac & Cigars 74.00 €90/100 X.O. 65.00 €Hardy Cognac

90/100 Hardy V.S.O.P 26.00 €Cognac Godet

89/100 Epicure - Folle Blanche 110.00 €Roussille

89/100 Roussille X.O. 35.00 €Cognac Courvoisier

89/100 V.S.O.P 38.00 €Domaine Drouet & fils

89/100 Fine Mélina 39.00 €Cave des Vigerons d'Oléron

88/100 X.O. 36.50 €Château de Plassac

88/100 Domaine de Plassac X.O. 50.00 €

Here are our scores for the Cognacs we tasted in 2011

The United States is the world’s fourth-largest wine producing country. Despite that,very little is known about its wines. In Asia, Napa Valley wines are famous yet peoplewould be hard pushed to locate them on a map or even know that California produceswines. In Europe, wine lovers have heard of the Judgement of Paris tasting yet they arenot familiar with Oregon or Santa Cruz. Gilbert & Gaillard have therefore decided to presenta detailed description of this extensive wine region, located mainly in California whichaccounts for 90% of the country’s wines. Vines are nevertheless grown in each of the50 states, including Alaska. Three states stand out as producers of highly representative,quality wines: Oregon, New York and Washington. May the journey commence!


REGION

Historically, wild vines,

more commonly known

as Vitis Labrusca, were

growing on North American soil well

before the first settlers arrived. Vitis

Labrusca was also the source of countless

hybrids with such charming names as

Isabella, Dutchess and Delaware. It

was not until the start of the 17th century

however that the Mission grape variety

was introduced into areas west of the

Rockies by missionaries from Mexico.

Only during the second half of the

19th century did Vitis Vinifera varieties

colonise the United States. The phylloxera

epidemic followed by Prohibition

between 1919 and 1933 brought the

North American wine industry to its

knees. It was only after the Second

World War and at the start of the

1960s that significant numbers of

wineries were opened. They were very

well-equipped and geared to the realities

of today’s wine trade. Interestingly,

almost 70% of wineries were set up in

California over the last thirty years.

LEGISLATION -THE APPELLATIONSYSTEMThe Federal TTB Bureau (Alcohol,

Tobacco, Tax and Trade Bureau) is

responsible for regulations related to

American wines that were introduced

in 1978. The Wine Institute draws up a

list of American Viticultural Areas,

commonly called A.V.A.s, for each

state. There are currently 198 A.V.A.s.

They are what might be called appellations

of origin, but American style. They are

in fact more along the lines of the

Italian Indicazione Geografica Tipica

because there are no compulsory grape

varieties, yields or vine management

techniques.

THE WINES ARE DIVIDED INTO FOUR

MAIN CATEGORIES.

1- American wine: these are a blend of

wines that can come from all over the

The United States: a leading global wine producer

Born on a winegrowing estate in Provence,Emmanuel learned how to walk by holdingon to grapevines. He holds an advanced vocational diploma in viticulture and oenology from Mâcon-Davayé (France) and is also an architect and engineer ofbridges and roadways. He recently moved to the United States to set up the NorthAmerican office of Gilbert & Gaillard.

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BY EMMANUEL DE LANVERSIN


WASHINGTON STATETHE MOST NORTHERLY AMERICAN WINE REGION,

HOME OF GREAT MERLOT



THE STATES OF

CALIFORNIA, OREGON,

WASHINGTON AND NEW YORK TAKE A LEAD ROLE IN DISSEMINATING

AMERICAN WINES INTERNATIONALLY

CALIFORNIAAMERICA'S MOST FAMOUS

WINE-PRODUCING STATE

OREGON HOME OF

PINOT NOIR,ALSO

PRODUCINGEXCELLENT

SAUVIGNON,PINOT GRIS

AND RIESLING

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NEW YORK GROWS MANY HYBRIDS BUT IS ALSO HOME TO NOBLE VINE VARIETIES INCLUDING CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, CHARDONNAY AND SAUVIGNON


REGION

Words you may see on labelsVintage: this is not a compulsory statement. However if it is mentioned, at least85% of the wine has to come from the year stated or 95% in the case of an A.V.A.Producer: “Produced and bottled by” or “Made and bottled by” guarantees thatthe wine grower responsible for bottling has fermented at least 75% of the wine.This is the best guarantee of origin. “Cellared and bottled by” and “Bottled by” are much more vague.Organic: various statements may feature on the label. They are clearly stated andchecks on site are stringent. Statements include 100% organic (rare), organic winemade with organic ingredients, made with organic and non-organic ingredients. Fumé blanc: the typically Californian name for Sauvignon Blanc.Meritage: a typically Californian statement referring to blended Bordeaux-stylewines. It gives the wine maker a degree of scope. Reds can be blended fromCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Whites areblended from Sauvignon, Sémillon and Muscadelle. No blend must contain morethan 75% of one varietal. Reserve: a statement of quality referring to particular attention to detail such asyield restrictions or oak ageing. However, its use is extremely varied and it in noway guarantees quality. Estate bottled: the wine is bottled at the estate. The statement can only be used for A.V.A.-designated wines. Any other statement is worthless (Estate, Estates,Estate-grown).Blush: a white or rosé wine made from red grape varieties. It produces a fairlymixed result. The wines to avoid are the “semi generics”. Although these havefallen into misuse, some unscrupulous producers still use names that refer torenowned European appellations such as Chablis, Champagne, Burgundy, Sherry, Port, Malaga, Rhine etc. Fortunately, the large wine companies are notparty to this misleading practice. In fact, stringent checks are conducted onexports by both the producers and the country of import.

ZINFANDEL, A NOBLE GRAPE

Americans consider Zinfandel as an authentic US grape variety, and theyare very proud of it. Known in Italy as Primitivo and also cultivated inCroatia, Mexico and Australia, it is in California that it reached its greatestsuccess. Gilbert & Gaillard asked a winemaker who excels with Zinfandelto tell us more about itsspecificities. Alex Sotelo, bornin Mexico, arrived in Napawhen he was 18, and createdhis own winery 15 years later.We met him at the SummitWine and Food Festival, in theNew York Metro area.

How did you come to winemaking?It was a question of survival. Iarrived from Mexico at 18 tofind a job. I took the first job Ifound. That was in a vineyardin Napa. It could have been ina fast food restaurant! While Iwas working in the vineyard Isaw so many people travellingto Napa and I wondered why.To understand, I started to taste the Merlot grapes and discovered howsophisticated they were. And then I tasted the wine and recognized thelink between the berry and the wine. I was fascinated. I came to winethrough the berry.

You are producing different wines. How did you come to Zinfandel?In 2001, the Elaine Mackey Charitable Trust asked me to make a winefrom Zinfandel for them. I accepted but I was out of my comfort zone. Idid not understand Zinfandel. I did not like Zinfandel. I expected winesthat would be either elegant but not very powerful, such as Benessere, orunapproachable before seven years, like the Folie à Deux. I met a lot ofwinemakers and tasted a lot of Zinfandels, and finally I understood thatmost winemakers move the wine too much and do not leave it longenough in oak barrels.

What is so special about Zinfandel? What makes it difficult towork with?The first thing is that the flowering is spread over a whole month,compared to 7-12 days for other grape varieties. As a consequence, the

cluster presents importantheterogeneity in maturity atthe time of the harvest. I waitfor the very last berry to beripe in order to get softtannins, which is sometimeschallenging due to theweather. That’s whyZinfandel needs to beplanted on warm anddrained hillside locations.Because of this high maturity,the level of sugar is very high.

The second thing is that thecluster is very dense, thereforevery sensitive to rot. That iswhy I cut down up to 50% ofthe harvest at various stagesof the development,depending on the yield andthe year. To keep the yield

Alex Sotelo

Zinfandel needs to be planted on warmand drained hillside locations

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United States, including Puerto Rico and the District of Columbia.

2- A multi-state appellation for a group of neighbouring states:

this can only be used for blends of wine from two or three states.

3- A state appellation: the wine comes from a single state provided

at least 75% of the grapes are from that particular state. The best-

known states are California, Oregon, Washington and New York.

Oregon is the only state to apply the 100% rule.

4- A county appellation: the wines must be made from at least 75%

of grapes from just one county, with the exception of Oregon, where

100% is again the rule. Each state may have one or several wine making

counties which are then divided geographically into A.V.A.s. For

instance, Arizona and Tennessee have just one A.V.A. whilst

Pennsylvania has four, Texas seven and California over 80.

LABELLING As a rule, American wines, especially Californian wines, sportthe grape variety on the label. However, because of the appellationrules, the proportion of the grape specified on the label israrely 100%. 75% is usually the rule. In the case of an A.V.A.,the minimum percentage rises to 85%. If the name of a smallwinery is mentioned, the minimum increases to 95%. In 2010, the USadministration launched a procedure designed to tighten up on thenames used on labels and ensure they are used appropriately. Theprocedure has so far been unsuccessful.



GRAPE VARIETIES

MAIN RED VARIETIES

ZINFANDELAccording to archaeological research, the origins of this

variety are in Croatia (probably under the name Plavac Mali).

It reportedly then spread over Europe, particularly in Italy

under the name Primitivo. Imported into California by the

Austrians, it thrived on Californian soils, so much so that it

was prized for its high yields and alcoholic strength. It was

also prized for its versatility and was vinified as white, rosé,

basic red and even sparkling wine. It currently accounts for

10% of California’s overall output and is considered by many

as the American variety after a sea change in wine making

practices over the last decade. Increasing numbers of wine

producers grow old vines on sites that can yield surprising

results, filling the glass with extremely juicy, fruit-laden wines

with wild berry flavours including blackberry. When acidity is

well-balanced and the tannins are ripe, the wines deliver spice

notes and wonderful complexity on the palate as they age.

CABERNET SAUVIGNONPart of the international popularity of Cabernet Sauvignon

with its tell-tale aromatics is due to the United States. The

Judgement of Paris, a blind tasting organised by Stephen

Spurrier, propelled Stag’s Leap, Ridge and Heitz to prominence

after a sparring match with Bordeaux growths. The tasting

heralded the United States’ entry into the realms of the great

Cabernet Sauvignon producer countries. The variety produces

deeply-coloured wines. Its aromas are fairly marked by blackcurrant

though also menthol, chocolate, eucalyptus and tobacco

notes. Superior quality Cabernet Sauvignon shows stuffing,

tightly-wound tannins and wonderful balance but the most

stylish ones often come with a hefty price tag. It is very often

blended with Merlot and Cabernet Franc and labelled “meritage”.

MERLOTInitially vinified individually, it is now more often than not

incorporated into blends. The State of Washington’s reputation is

based on Merlot. When it is properly vinted, this grape variety

is understandably popular with lovers of fruity, fleshy wines

and boasts a deep colour, roundness and silky tannins.

PINOT NOIRRunning the gamut from the lightest to the most robust and

the most elegant to the most massive, the entire range of Pinot

Noir wines is increasingly popular, mainly since the acclaimed

film Sideways in 2005. Sales climbed by 15% in just three

down, I also use Saint Georges rootstock that controls the vineproductivity.

Once in the tank, is the juice easier to work with?Not really! The first problem is to avoid too much residual sugars. As westart with very rich juices, I use “super yeast” at the end of fermentationto make sure it will not stop on its way. I like the Zinfandel when it is dry.

Then I want the alcohol not to show too much. When you taste my wines,they are 15º ABV but it does not show, they are creamy and balanced. Toget that result, I work with open wooden tanks during the fermentationin order to volatilise alcohol. It is also easier to punch down the cap.

I also develop the fruit flavours of the wine, by fermenting part of thegrapes in a carbonic fermentation. This means that part of the clusters arepoured and not crushed nor de-stemmed. The grape remains intact andthe fermentation takes place inside the grape.

Then, during the longageing process in barrels, Ikeep the humidity as highas possible in order tokeep the water in the wineand as much alcohol aspossible in the angel’sshare.

You said that you seewinemaking as a lifeimitating art. What do youthink is the share ofnature and the share ofhuman in wine making?Men put natural elementsin line for nature to do the work. Mother Nature is set to produce fruits,but the elements are not set properly. We are coming with moreknowledge. It’s 90% nature, 10% human. We forget too easily that wedepend on nature. We look at numbers, but sometimes they are notattainable. We have to keep our feet on the ground and a goodunderstanding of nature. In 2010 I had no Zinfandel. The winter was toocold and we had rain in September. I dropped the whole harvest on theground.

Any projects in the future?Sales are doing well. I sell 80% of my production through my mailing listand 20% to brokers. I am also a consultant in Mexico. The wine industrythere is still in its infancy. The potential is huge. The main production isin Baja California but it gives salty wines. There is potential in thehighlands of Zacatecas at 7000 feet altitude. It is among the highestvineyards in the world!

SOTELO www.alexsotelocellars.com

P.O. Box 3005 Yountville, CA 94558 Voice / Fax +1 707 224 5920 [email protected]

As the US is now the largestwine market in the world, thenumber and the diversity ofwine festivals in the country isgrowing. Summit Food and

Wine Festival is one of them, created in 2009by Ivan Ruiz in the New York City Metroarea. It brings together leading chefsand winemakers from around the countryto “ce lebra te and advance publicknowledge of and appreciation for greatwine and food”.

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Sales are doing well

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REGION

months. Pinot Noir is a difficult variety to vinify. It sports a

lightly-coloured hue, shows cherry aromatics, a fruity mouthfeel,

good acidity and a measure of elegance, especially when oak

is not too prominent. This varietal wine has become a speciality

of Oregon.

SYRAH OR SHIRAZFor a relatively affordable price, this varietal wine offers many

likeable aspects: a deep, often purple-bluish colour in its

youth, aromas of spices, a wonderful tannic structure and

bundles of fruit. On top of this comes California’s own touch

of concentration, which can be full-on. Barbera, Grenache and

Carignane (the same Carignan as in Languedoc) cover extensive

areas in California but tend not to be exported as much as

other varietals.

Cabernet Franc, Mourvèdre (known as Mataro in California),

Petite Syrah (Syrah or Duriff depending on the vineyard) and

Sangiovese (Sangioveto) are also grown.

MAIN WHITE VARIETIES

CHARDONNAYThis great Burgundy grape has become the most popular and

most extensively grown variety in California. With its occasionally

exuberant aromas of tropical fruits and its buttery, toasted

nuances - depending on how long the wine has spent in oak -

it appeals to lovers of fairly opulent white wines.

Unfortunately, there can still be a tendency to over-oak and

some wines are occasionally heavy and excessively marked by

oak. In the aftermath of the global trend towards taste stan-

dardisation, in which origin and terroir play second fiddle to

technology and trivialisation, the best wineries are learning to

be more selective with oak. The less concentrated wines do

not automatically spend time in oak or at least, spend less

time in oak, in order to reveal more distinctive aromas, fruit,

finesse and elegance.

SAUVIGNONThis varietal has experienced similar problems. Renowned in

Sancerre for its fruity aromas, its exuberance and delicate features,

it is often called Fumé Blanc in California. It is fairly generous

but this does not necessarily warrant use of oak, especially

when the barrels are heavily toasted. Patience is a virtue

though and things are gradually changing for the better.

French Colombard (which ranks second after Chardonnay),

Chenin Blanc and Muscat of Alexandria cover extensive

acreage in America but the approach here is very much quantity

over quality. White Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sémillon,

Muscat Petit Grain, Symphony (apparently a cross between

Grenache and Muscat of Alexandria) are also grown, as is one

of the most promising varieties, Viognier.

THE MAJOR PRODUCING REGIONS

WINES FROM THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA• NAPA (17,400 ha – 400 wine estates)Without doubt California’s most well-known wine region,

Napa Valley is located north of San Francisco. From Calistoga

to Napa, vines bask in an ideal climate, hotter in the north

and cooler in the south, around Carneros, just above the

famous bay.

The main A.V.A.s are Atlas Peak (this is where Antinori, the

great Tuscan marquis is based; his savoury wine is faintly

reminiscent of Chianti; Atlas Peak Vineyard), Howell

Mountain (high altitude and volcanic soils; Dunn, Beringer,

Turley, La Jota, Duckhorn), Los Carneros (Acacia, Beaulieu,

Carneros Creek, Saintsbury, Sterling, Cuvaison, Domaine

Carneros belonging to Champagne house Taittinger), Napa

Valley (Cuvaison, Clos Pegase, Sterling and Château

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THE CARNEROS REGION IN NAPAVALLEY PRODUCES SOME OF THECOUNTRY’S BEST QUALITY WINES

Montelena around Calistoga, as well as Diamond Creek on

the slopes of Diamond Mountain. Rosenblum produces an

excellent Zinfandel), Oakville and Rutherford (Robert

Mondavi, Paradigm, Martha's Vineyard, Beaulieu, Opus One,

Vichon, Niebaum-Coppola, Caymus, Harlan Estate, Joseph

Phelps, Grgich Hills, Far Niente, St. Supéry, Rutherford Hill),

St. Helena (Beringer, Whitehall Lane, Charles Krug, Heitz,

Joseph Phelps, Duckhorn, Merryvale, Christian Brothers,

Freemark Abbey, Spottswoode, Stony Hill), Stag’s Leap District

(Clos du Val, Stag's Leap Vineyard, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars,

Pine Ridge) and Yountville (Domaine Chandon, Dominus

Estate).

• SONOMA (24,300 ha - 254 wine estates)Located between the Pacific Ocean and Napa Valley, Sonoma

runs parallel with Napa. It covers virtually the same acreage

yet has far fewer wineries. The wines enjoy outstanding weather

promoting a long growing season that lends itself to good

aromatic extraction, finesse and distinction. Famous wineries

make superlative Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

and, increasingly, savoury Zinfandel and refined Pinot Noir.

The main A.V.A.s are Alexander Valley (rich, deep soils perfectly

suited to white Chardonnay wines: they are robust, powerful

and show abundant ultra ripe fruit aromas and spices. The

terraced vineyards are well-suited to growing Cabernet

Sauvignon and produce concentrated wines with cooked red

fruit aromas; Clos du Bois, Geyser Peak, Simi, Château

Souverain, Lyeth, Silver Oak), Chalk Hill (Chalk Hill, Rodney

Strong), Dry Creek Valley (Dry Creek, Preston, Ferrari-Carano,

Ridge), Los Carneros (Buena Vista, Gloria Ferrer), North

Coast, Northern Sonoma, Russian River Valley (Sonoma-

Cutrer, De Loach, Foppiano, J. Rochioli, Mark West, Joseph

Swann), Sonoma County (Arrowood, St. Francis, Ravenswood,

Geyser Peak, Château St. Jean, Hanzell, Piper-Sonoma,

Rodney Strong, Rosenblum), Sonoma County Green Valley

(Marimar Torres, Iron Horse), Sonoma Mountain (Laurel

Glen, Kistler), Sonoma Valley (Kenwood, Sebastiani, Château

St-Jean, St. Francis, Matanzas Creek, Glen Ellen).

• MENDOCINO COUNTY (6,100 ha - 70 wine estates) Mendocino is the most northerly of California’s wine regions

and a wonderful place to visit. It is subject to significant

variations in climate which have an influence on the personality

of the wines. Producers who came to Mendocino were vindicated

in their choice of region: from the elegant Zinfandel and Syrah

wines located primarily in the heart of the county to the Pinot

Noir and Chardonnay grown nearer the ocean for traditional

method sparkling wines, quality is generally present across the

board. This explains why the leading Champagne houses realised

the county had potential.

The main A.V.A.s are Anderson Valley (Roederer Estate,

Scharffenberger, Navarro, Handley, Greenwood Ridge, Lazy

Creek), Mendocino - Mendocino Ridge (Fetzer, Parducci,

Dunnewood, Weibel, Hidden Cellars, Lolonis, Jepson,

McDowell) and North Coast.

• SAN FRANCISCO BAY REGION (640,000 ha - around 100 wine estates) It would be a shame to visit the Californian vineyard without

taking the time to visit San Francisco and see its magnificent

views. Its captivating bay, bustling market, delightful restaurants,

roller coaster streets and likeable, relaxed people are all sights

definitely worth seeing. From here, it is easy to travel to the

charming wineries of Santa Cruz Mountain, via Saratoga and

Los Gatos. Despite the reputation of the Silicon Valley around

San Jose, Santa Clara county continues to produce superlative

wines mirroring its sumptuous terroirs.

The main A.V.A.s are Livermore Valley (Wente, Concannon,

Murrieta's Well), Contra Costa County (Cline, Rosenblum,

Turley, Ridge), Santa Clara Valley (Ridge, Mirassou, Mount

Eden), Santa Cruz Mountain (Bonny Doon Vineyard, Ridge,

Mount Eden, Clos LaChance).



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OREGON HAS BEEN PRODUCINGWINE SINCE THE MID-1960S

NEW YORK STATE: WHERE VINES ANDLAKES LIVE IN PERFECT HARMONY

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REGION

• MONTEREY BAY and San Benito (16,000 ha - 75 wine estates)

The extensive region of Monterey, south of the bay of the same

name, offers very suitable conditions for wine growing. The

strong maritime influence on its climate makes it cooler and

harvesting begins two weeks after the other regions.

Chardonnay in particular thrives here and currently covers

around half the total vineyard acreage.

WINES FROM THE STATE OF OREGONSituated between California and Washington, this state has

been producing wine since the mid-1960s. Pinot Noir definitely

holds centre stage here and covers almost half of Oregon’s

2,500 hectares under vine. Next comes Chardonnay, then

Riesling and Pinot Gris. Other varieties such as Cabernet,

Sauvignon and Muscat are grown though to a lesser extent;

they are therefore virtually impossible to find abroad. Several

official wine areas have been created, including:

• Willamette Valley

This is the state’s most prominent A.V.A. Patches of volcanic

soils, an extremely temperate climate with a fairly cool late

autumn and high plantation density combine to promote relatively

low yields. The resultant red wines display a beautiful clean

colour, cherry aromas and oodles of fruit on the palate, framed by

supple tannins. Acidity and structure impart great ageability.

Names to look out for: The Eyrie, Domaine Drouhin Oregon

(Robert Drouhin of Beaune set up a winery in the Red Hills

and successfully produced his first vintage in 1988. His

daughter Véronique is currently at the helm), Adelsheim, Rex

Hill, Ponzi, Oak Knoll, Amity, Bethel Heights, Tualatin, Erath

Vineyards, Argyle and Laurel Ridge.

WINES FROM THE STATE OF WASHINGTONThis region is currently the second-largest wine producer in

the United States. However in the middle of the 20th century,

nobody would have believed grapes would ripen on land

situated north of Oregon, bordering on Canada. After a few

trials with Cinsault, the first vineyards of any significance

were established in the 1950s. They revealed that Riesling and

Chardonnay flourished in these latitudes. Cabernet and Syrah

were subsequently introduced. As a rule, the wines show

intense fruit aromas, refreshing acidity and deep colour. The

most extensive appellation covering most of the region is the

Columbia Valley A.V.A.

Names to look out for: Andrew Hill, Badger Mountain, Buty,

Betz, Cayuse, Château Ste. Michelle, Columbia Winery, Covey

Run, Double Back, Gordon Brothers, Kiona, Leonetti Cellar

and Woodward Canyon.

WINES FROM THE STATE OF NEW YORKAlthough this State is better known for its megacity than for

its vineyards, it is nevertheless the third-largest wine producer

in the United States. The Concord grape variety is still quite

prolific but most of it is turned into grape juice. Some wineries

grow hybrids (Aurore, Seyval, Cayuga etc) and Vitis Vinifera

varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and

Sauvignon), which can produce some unexpected results. The

Finger Lakes region produces some very popular Riesling and

Gewurztraminer whilst Long Island grows Merlot, Cabernet

Franc and Chardonnay on its sandy soils. Being so close to

New York City facilitates the route to market. Some good

wineries worth a visit:

Hudson Valley (Benmarl, Millbrook, Clinton, Rivendell);

Finger Lakes (Wagner, Knapp, Hermann J. Wiemer, Glenora,

Shaleston); Long Island (Palmer, Pindar, Bedell, Hargrave,

Channing Daughters).

Any wine lover who is keen to discover the extensive range of

American wines must expect to have to travel several thousand

kilometres. For those who want to know everything there is to

know about American wines, the Travel column in each issue

of Gilbert & Gaillard takes you not only to the most prominent

wine regions but also to the lesser-known ones such as

Indiana, Colorado and Oklahoma. Back soon! �

NEW YORK LIFE


Ask any observer of New York's culinary scene over the pasttwo decades for a list of the city’s most influential duos andthey are bound to name Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich.

www.eatalyny.com

Eataly - Italy Eats New York

Batali is known for ambles in NY and

appearances on television in his chef’s

whites, baggy shorts and orange clogs; he is

supposedly the food guy. Reared in his

mother Lidia’s restaurant (Lidia is a famous

chef and television personality too), with a

stint on Wall Street, Joe represents the front

of house, sporting a casually-worn, tailored

suit. Together, Mario and Joe own or operate

some of New York’s most noteworthy

Italian restaurants: Babbo, Lupa, Otto, Del

Posto and Esca, plus the Spanish-themed

Casa Mono and Bar Jamon. In Los Angeles

and Singapore, they are behind Osteria

Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza, and in Las

Vegas they run Ristorante B&B, and

Carnevino. Oh yes, and then there’s the La

Mozza winery they own with Joe’s mother

in Maremma, Tuscany.

Yet despite this activity one might argue

their most impressive enterprise to date has

been Eataly, New York. Opened in August

2010 and occupying over 5000 square

meters (57,000 square feet) of the

magnificent Toy Building in Manhattan’s

Flatiron district, Eataly is an homage to

the heritage of Italian gastronomy, featuring

products from Italian producers large

and small, as well as produce made

locally in New York. In addition to

superlative groceries, meats, cheeses,

pasta, vegetables, oils, spices, sweets and

the like, guests can be fortified by a

dozen eating and drinking venues

overseen by the dynamic Batali and

Bastianich; skim cookbooks in Italian

and English; fantasise about the latest

Italian cookware; or even pick up a

bottle of Barolo next door (NY state law

currently forbids grocery stores to sell

wine or spirits).

Jamal Rayyis

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Products f rom I ta l ian producers, as wel l as produce made local ly in New York

DRINK BETTER, LIVE BETTER

Eataly NY 200 Fifth Avenue at 23rd StreetNew York, NY 10010Tel. +1 212 229 2560Hours: 10am to 11pm (individual components may have separate hours)www.eatalyny.com


NEW YORK LIFE

While the Batali/Bastianich connection is

key to the workings of Eataly in New York,

the concept was conceived by Oscar Farinetti

a few years earlier in Turin. Highly successful

in the retailing of consumer electronics in

Italy, Farinetti became enamoured with

local, artisan-produced foods and the whole

Slow Food movement that emerged from

Italy during the past two decades.

Recognizing that supermarket convenience

might be the undoing of artisan products

that required time and skill passed down

through generations, he decided to create a

temple of sorts to the celebration of Italian

cuisine. Small producers of cheese, salame,

pasta, bread, oils, condiments and so on

who could not compete with large food

companies were given a platform that not

only allowed them to sell their products, but

also have them honoured. Slow Food has

been a partner from the beginning. Eataly’s

philosophy is simple: Eat Better, Live Better.

The Turin location opened in 2007. Since

then, seven others have opened in the north

of Italy, and six in Japan. One is scheduled to

open in Rome in the next few months. The

New York location is the first in the United

States; others are being explored. Wherever

the location, the philosophy remains the

same: to provide excellent, unique products

that represent the best from Italy as well as

the best available locally.

While a buyer from Turin keeps the New

York story connected to small producers in

Italy, relationships are cultivated with small

producers in the US, especially New York

State. Fresh dairy comes from New York.

Bread is baked using local, stone-ground

flour from upstate New York, but is leavened

using a century old “mother” starter from

Italy. Local New York mozzarella makers,

trained in Apulia, produce home-made

cheese using curds from New Jersey. Fresh

pasta is made using NY State eggs, local

water and Canadian semolina. Eataly has a

tremendous selection of Italian cheeses, but

it also features a number of American

farmhouse cheeses. Due to US agriculture

restrictions, Eataly cannot import meat from

Italy, but it features meat from Piemontese

breed cattle raised in Montana. Its fish counter

is sublime.

Eataly NY has been a tremendous success

since its opening. Over six million visited in

its first year, and anyone strolling through its

dizzyingly busy floor will find legions of

tourists from around the world, including a

surprising number of Italians, homesick

perhaps, or maybe just in search of a ristretto

italiano. Casual dining counters where guests

can order specialties ranging from prepared

seasonal vegetables, to raw seafood, to

sandwiches, pizzas and pastas, and roast

meat sandwiches, and a glass of wine, are

another draw. Manzo, which specializes in

Italian meat dishes, is Eataly’s only full-service

restaurant. Opened this past summer,

Birreria is a rooftop beer garden and restaurant

that specialises in the birra-friendly cuisines

of Italy’s Austro-Germanic-tinged north.

With a view of the Empire State Building,

reservations are essential. Eataly ’s grocer ies

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Casual d in ing counters

Eataly NY has been a t remendous success s ince i ts opening

TRAVEL


Since 1990 the number of wineries in Colorado has increased 25-fold. In winecontests, the wines have not only won numerous medals but have even beatenwell-known Californian wines. Viticultural conditions around the Rocky Mountainsare exceptionally challenging - the growing season in these high, sunny and dryvineyards is short and extreme and frost can strike three times a year.

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FIGHTING THE COLD IN

Colorado

Another summer’s day with temperatures above

30°C. The evening is still very warm in downtown

Grand Junction, a sizeable provincial city in the

far west of Colorado. Like every Thursday, there is a farmers’

market on Main Street, several groups are playing, and we

dine at Il Bistro Italiano’s street terrace.

continued on page 74


TRAVEL

ALONG GRAND VALLEY’S WINE ROUTE

300 days a year, and it is precisely here, between the Rocky

Mountains and the border with Utah, that two-thirds of

Colorado’s vines grow.

SHADE IS BETTER THAN SUNExcessive sugar levels, and thus wines that are too high in alcohol,

are another danger. Colorado’s vineyards are high in altitude,

from 1,400m above sea level, and the sun shines brightly.

During the relatively short growing season - between the cold

periods – this weather is highly conducive to fruit ripening. But

any grower who waits too long before harvesting will find himself

with wines that are too alcoholic. ABV levels of 14.5% or even

over 15% are common in Colorado. Picking too early is not

preferable either, especially for the red varieties as the aromas

will not have developed properly. Consequently, harvesting in

Colorado is like walking on a tightrope. Apart from finding the

ideal moment for harvesting, another way of limiting sugar levels

is through canopy management. In many wine areas it is used

to remove leaves so that the sun shines directly on the grapes,

but in Colorado the procedure is reversed - winegrowers who

At our table is state viticulturist Horst Kaspari. A German native

who studied in his home country, he then worked in New

Zealand until 2000. When asked what the biggest problems are

in his field for Colorado’s wine industry, he states categorically

that there are three: cold damage, cold damage and cold damage.

The vines in this state can be struck by severe frost damage three

times a year. Horst calls them early autumn frost (daytime

temperatures 13-14°, then suddenly dropping to minus 10-12°),

midwinter frost and spring frost (also fatal below freezing

point). Autumn frost is the most common, sometimes for five

consecutive years, but spring frost regularly causes damage too.

The only mechanical remedy to date are windmills in which

several bigger wine estates have invested. Water sprayers, like in

Chablis, are not an option because at critical moments irrigation

water is rarely available and drinking water would be too expensive.

Heaters would be impractical. The only method that is at least

effective against spring frost is delaying the growing cycle as

much as possible because the later the vine’s budburst, the

lower the risk. By adapting irrigation and pruning, the start of

the growing cycle can be delayed by two weeks. Syrah, as Horst

says, is a naturally late varietal. The viticulturist and his team

are conducting research in cold rooms into more resistant varieties.

An additional risk to vines is desiccation. In Grand Valley, the

large, sheltered valley of Grand Junction, the sun shines over

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VITICULTURIST HORST KASPARI

Fighting the cold in Colorado


CANYON WIND’S NORM CHRISTIANSEN

want to make well-balanced wines that are not too heavy try as

much as possible to keep the bunches in the shade of the leaves.

Which varieties have the best potential? ”First of all, Merlot,”

says Horst Kaspari. ”It’s just as well as it is the most planted

variety. But it is best not to treat Merlot as a workhorse, like they

do with Müller-Thurgau in Germany. Merlot has to be treated

like a noble variety, only then will you get fine wines.

Otherwise, I see good potential in Rhône varieties like Syrah,

Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne.”

SIMILARITIES WITH MENDOZACanyon Wind is at the eastern gateway to Grand Valley, just out-

side the quiet wine village of Palisade. The estate was established in

1996 by the geologist Norm Christiansen. This successful medium-

sized winery conducted extensive research to find the best location

for its vineyards. The reason why it is founded here is because

of the deep rocky soil (like in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) and also

the frequent winds from the canyon which minimise the risk of

spring frost and in summer bring some cool air. Because of this

combination, Norm calls his vineyard an ideal site. The tall,

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COLORADO MONUMENT NATIONAL PARK IS NEAR THE GRAND VALLEY WINE AREA


TRAVEL

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John Wayne look-alike winegrower shrewdly brought in the

world famous viticulture expert Richard Smart too. He put data

from Canyon Wind onto his computer and quickly discovered

the similarities with Washington State as well as Mendoza. The

resemblance with the Argentinean wine area will result in plantings

of Malbec. Amongst the current range of “really good, food-friendly

wines” are flagships such as the particularly fruity Pinot Grigio,

the blended 47-Ten and a well-balanced Petit Verdot.

MANY NEW WINERIESMany American states already had a flourishing wine industry

before Prohibition. At the time, Italian miners were making a

little wine for private consumption in Colorado. The first true

winery - Colorado Cellars in Palisade, which still exists today -

was established over 30 years ago, in 1978. With a production

of 15,000 to 25,000 cases a year, the winery is built partially

into the mountain and has grown to be the largest in Colorado.

Overall output covers more than twenty different wines and

several brands. One of their most attractive wines is the barrel-

aged Cabernet-Sauvignon Reserve, made from the second most

widely-grown variety in Colorado. Colorado Cellars, founded

by a still very active Rick Turley, encouraged little emulation to

begin with. Twelve years later Colorado still only had five wine

producers. This was enough though for the state to found the

Colorado Wine Industry Development Board, chaired by a

dynamic Doug Caskey. He sped up the process and consequently

there are 96 registered wineries today with 1,100 acres under

vine. The story does not end here though because in many

places vineyards have just been planted.

EAST OF THE MOUNTAINSYou don’t have to be a mathematician to understand that most

of the wineries are small. The second largest winery is the Two

Rivers Winery, between Grand Junction and the imposing

Colorado Monument, a National Park with 11 canyons and a

tower-like rock formation reminiscent of Monument Valley. The

two stylish tasting rooms at Two Rivers can welcome 60 people

and the adjacent château-like main building houses luxury bed

and breakfast accommodation. Despite their relatively large

output, the wines are of good quality. At the top-end is their Syrah,

followed by the Cabernet-Sauvignon, the Merlot and the

Vintner’s Blend. At the eastern side of the Rockies too, wineries

flourish and total approximately 40. Most of them buy their

grapes in the west but make the wine in their own cellars. In the

centre of Boulder near Pearl Street Mall is the tasting room

belonging to Bookcliff Vineyards - with over 2,000 cases - in the

WINE MAKER BILL DONAHUE AND HIS WIFE ANITA IN THE BISTROT OF CREEKSIDE CELLARS, ONE OF THE BEST SMALL WINERIES

Fighting the cold in Colorado


same facilities as a chocolate producer. One of the most remark-

able wines is the Cabernet Franc: a rich, alcoholic, full-bodied

wine showing a mix of berries and black fruit, spice and toast-

ed notes, even chocolate. Cabernet Franc plantings cover only 7 %

currently, but the variety is now considered a specialty. This

viewpoint is shared by Jenne Baldwin-Eaton, the talented

female wine-maker of Plum Creek in Palisade. In her delightful

tasting room we tasted perhaps Colorado’s best Riesling, fruity,

refreshing and - unlike most Colorado Rieslings - very dry.

AMATEUR TURNED PROFESSIONALAn exquisite Cabernet Franc is served at Creekside Cellars as

well. Annual production of 3,000 cases is sold at the cellar

door, in the tasting room and their bistrot located next to a

small brook. The locality is Evergreen, a small tourist village in

a valley behind Denver. Owner Bill Donahue (“people come

here for wine, food and meeting friends”) learned wine drinking as

a student whilst savouring spaghetti on Sundays with his future

mother-in-law who originated from Italy. He was an amateur

winemaker for 30 years before he founded a real winery in 1996.

The average standard of his wines is high. Besides the Cabernet

Franc, I tasted an aromatic, fresh and spicy Gewürztraminer as

well as an apricot-like Viognier that was not too heavy (“for this

variety, it is essential to determine the right picking

moment”), an intense Chardonnay fermented in

French oak and a full-bodied toasty and plummy

Cabernet-Sauvignon as well as two surprisingly lovely

Port-style wines.

MOVING OVER TO PINOT NOIRColorado’s highest vineyards are east of Grand

Valley, roughly an hour’s drive away. This is Delta

County with the smaller wine villages like

Cedaredge, Hotchkiss (“friendliest town

around”) and Paonia. Over a dozen wineries are

disseminated in an often spectacular and changing

HARD-WORKING BRENT HELLECKSON FROMSTONE COTTAGE

LANCE HANSON FROM JACK RABBITHILL, ORGANIC WINE GROWER ANDCREATOR OF SOME FABULOUS WINES

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landscape of fertile valleys, desert-like basins, rocky slopes and

stately tablelands. Completely isolated on one such tableland,

Lance Hanson planted the state’s first entirely organic vineyard,

Jack Rabbit Hill. The vines, from carefully selected clones, grow on

limestone soil layered over rich chalk. An energetic, fast-speaking

Lance produces remarkable wines - roughly 1,200 cases of them -

which normally sell out within nine months. A case in point is the

M & N, a red, fruity, full-bodied blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot

COLORADO’S TOP TEN GRAPE VARIETIES

1. Merlot 21%2. Chardonnay 18%3 Cabernet-Sauvignon 13%4. Syrah 9%5. Cabernet Franc 7%6. Riesling 6%7. Pinot Noir 4%8. Gewürztraminer 3%9. Sauvignon Blanc 3%10. Others 16%

Amongst others is Lemberger (blaufränkisch)which, like in Washington State, producessome pleasant wines. Cinsault, Malbec,Mourvèdre, Petit Verdot are also grown on asmall scale. Several Muscat varieties aregrown for sweet wine.

WEBSITESLots of information on Colorado wines can to be found at www.coloradowine.comTourist information can be found at www.colorado.com

ABOUT 600 PEOPLE COME FORBRUNCH EVERY SUNDAY AT THEBROADMOOR RESORT HOTEL

BOOKCLIFF IS A SMALL WINERY WITHA LARGE RANGE OF WINES

Meunier. As is his Wild Rosé, a crisp, fresh dry rosé made out of

the hybrid Maréchal Foch variety. On a hillside site with views

over Paonia, nestled in its lush green valley, space engineer Brent

Helleckson has been creating his winery piecemeal for over

twelve years. Stone Cottage produces between 600 and 800

cases annually. In spite of the altitude, spring frost often occurs,

striking as much as four times last April. At the same time,

drought is a problem, especially for young vines. Consequently,

it took six years before he could pick the first harvest of Pinot

Noir, the 2006 vintage. But it was an exquisite, delightful juicy

yet powerful wine with a dense colour. Stone Cottage’s vineyard

grows on rocky volcanic soil with clay and basalt on a chalk

substrate. The rocky in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains can often be

found in his vineyards.

Text and photography: Hubrecht Duijkerwww.hubrechtduijker.com


FAMILY BUSINESS

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The Benzigers of Sonoma represent biodynamics in action, not just in the way theyfarm their vineyards, but also how they run their family business.

Biodynamics relies on the idea that a successful ecology isone that is self-regulating, self-correcting, and sustainable.Just as biodynamic viticulture must be sensitive to

natural processes and the harmony of each individual element toother elements as well as to the whole, the success of the Benzigerfamily winery recognizes the individual value and talents of everyoneworking in the organization and understands how these skillscombine to create a sustainable, thriving whole.

The Benzigers story starts in 1980 when Mike Benziger, then thirty,and his wife Mary, found an overgrown ranch in the SonomaMountains he thought had potential for viticulture. The Benzigerfamily purchased the property, and most of the clan, Mike’sparents and siblings included, moved to California. Today, almosttwo dozen Benzigers live on or near the 93 hectare (230 acres)estate located in the hamlet of Glen Ellen.

At the beginning, “everyone worked seven days a week, all withthe same title, all with the same salary,” says Mike Benziger,general manager and winegrower. Vineyards were planted, awinery, built. And, they started the Glen Ellen brand (sold in1994), packaging varietal bulk wine that sold for a modest $5per bottle.

As the business developed, family members veered toward tasksthat interested them individually: winemaking, viticulture, marketing,technical, etc. Roles became specialized, and it became clear thatsome jobs required more time or skill than others. The model ofeveryone earning the same simply wouldn’t hold.

After the family patriarch, Bruno Benziger, died in 1988, the familyneeded to develop a plan fair to everyone. They enlisted the expertiseof Jim Clark, a Harvard University industrial psychologist to help.

Benziger Family Winery,Sonoma Mountain

Benziger Family


FAMILY BUSINESS

Dr. Clark took a holistic approach, recognizing the worth of everyone’stask in the business. A winemaker needs grape growers. Both needsales and marketing. Sales and marketing need product. Everyoneneeds good facilities, equipment and an administration to hold alltogether.

To assure fairness, positions were examined, skills and type ofresponsibility to the whole were assessed, and formula for faircompensation was created. Also recognized was that all talents hadvalue, whether professional or technical. Education and practicalexperience were encouraged and supported, creating within thefamily a diversity of individual interests and skills that complementedthe whole. A family constitution was ratified that defined roles,expectations, responsibility to the business and to one another,conflict resolution, education, employment, as well as and mechanismsfor change if needed. Self-regulation, in biodynamic terms.

There are quarterly meetings for family members who work for thecompany full-time discussing vision, evaluating resources and goals.At least once per year, the entire family meets, along with spouses andchildren. “It’s vital that everyone feels they can be heard, see what ishappening, or feel responsibility for the overall good,” says Mike. The[big] family meeting is an important aspect of unification,” says Mike. Education, professional and technical, is supported by the family. But,a job at the winery is not automatic. Family members who finishschool must work for another company for at least three years beforereturning to the family business. There are no guarantees. If a familymember is highly qualified, the company will try to find a place.“But,” adds Mike, ”it is important that employees outside the familyfeel secure, too. Their perspectives and insights are vital to the whole,too. Family members don’t necessarily have priority.”

BENZIGER FAMILY WINERY 1883 London Ranch Rd - Glen Ellen, Ca 95442Tel. +1 (888) 490 2739 - Fax +1 (707) 935 3016

[email protected]

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MIKE BENZIGER: ”IN THE BEGINNING, EVERYONE WORKED SEVEN DAYS A WEEK, WITH THE SAME TITLE AND WITH THE SAME SALARY”

Principal Benziger family members in the business

Mike Benziger - Founder, General Manager, and WinemakerBob Benziger - Director of Customer RelationsChris Benziger - National Sales ManagerKathy Benziger-Threlkeld - Director of Customer DevelopmentJoe Benziger - Winemaker at Imagery Estate WineryTim Wallace (married to Patsy Benziger) - PresidentErinn Benziger Weiswasser (Mike's Daughter) - East Coast Regional Sales Manager

Family members outside the business are supported to pursueinterests in other companies or fields. A family program gives childrengraduating from college a one year internship that covers all areas ofthe company: viticulture, winemaking, marketing, sales, and hospitality.Succession is an issue. Mike and siblings have nearly two dozenchildren ranging in age from 8 to 31. Most are still in school. Mike’stwo children, Erinn and Buck are involved with the winery. A coupleof others are in the wine industry, and at least one is currentlystudying enology.

Today, Benziger has the largest biodynamic property in Sonoma,and it is among the largest in North America. Purchased grapes aregrown using at least sustainable practices. The Benzigers hold seminarsfor its growers about sustainable and biodynamic viticulture.

Benziger relies on another family enterprise, Kobrand, to manage itssales and distribution in the US and abroad. “Kobrand represents anumber of family wineries, giving them clout in a very competitivemarket… It’s important for us to stick together,” says Mike.

Jamal Rayyis

Viewed from outside, the

world of Italian wine is complex

and is sometimes associated

ab road w i th s c anda l . Even in

Antiquity, it is recorded that Roman

aristocrats were never completely

convinced that the wine served at their

tables was consistently real Falerne.

Yet in Friuli, shared between Slovenia

and Austria until it became part of Italy

at the end of the Second World War,

the situation is quite different. This

little-known Italian region is as virtuous

as it is perfectionist. As early as 1787,

even before the classification of

Bordeaux’s crus in 1855, a classification

hierarchy for quality was established

for the winemaking region, though it

was abandoned for various reasons linked

to grapevine diseases, followed by the

appearance of phylloxera in 1888. This clas-

sification would be published only in 1931.

A TRADITIONOF WHITE WINEFriuli belongs to the autonomous region of Friuli-Venezia-

Giulia, which extends over 7,844 square kilometres, stretching

north to the border with Austria, east

to the border with Slovenia, west to

Veneto, and south to the Adriatic

Sea. The region is split between a

mountainous and a hilly area, from

which extends a relatively expansive

plain. It has 20,431 hectares of

vineyards with both white and red

varieties, although the region’s white

wines are better-known and a more

typical reflection of traditional local

wine production. The best Italian

examples of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot

Grigio are from Friuli (in particular from

Borgo del Tiglio and Davide Feresin), not

to mention some original interpretations

of Traminer Aromatico, most notably

from the wine estate I Feudi di

Romans. The red wines, made from

native varieties such as Refosco,

Pignolo and Schioppettino, are often

powerful and rustic and are not well-

known. In recent years they have

enjoyed a renewal of interest from

both Italian and international wine

drinkers looking for neglected regional red wines that are

good value for money.



When a Friuli winemaker such as Nicola Manferrari of Borgo del Tiglio callshis wine studio di bianco, or “study in white”, it begs the question if thisrefers to the work of an original winemaker seeking to set themselvesapart, or whether the study in question is a concept shared with otherproducers of this region.

Friuli: perfectionism in a bottle

Delphine lives between Milan and

Paris. She has a PhD in economics

from the University of Paris-Dauphine

and holds a qualification from the

Wine & Spirit Education Trust in

London. She heads the Italian

office of Gilbert & Gaillard.


BY DELPHINE VEISSIÈRE



In terms of red wine, the climatic and environmental

conditions here seem to offer a better expression of Pinot

Noir that in the colder alpine zone of Alto Adige or the hotter

zone of Oltrepo Pavese in Lombardy. The 2008 Pinot Noir

from the Masut da Rive winery is radiant and accessible,

attracting our attention (91/100) with its nose of red fruit and

cooked cherry over a balsamic background with hints of

eucalyptus, that continues on the palate with notes of fresh

fruit soaked in alcohol. However, with the exception of the

excellent 2008 Rivarossa (93/100) from Mario Schiopetto,

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are less adapted to this terroir.

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THIS LITTLE-KNOWN ITALIAN REGION IS AS VIRTUOUS AS IT IS PERFECTIONIST


GIANCARLO GALLO OFFERSAMAZINGLY ELEGANT WINES THAT BEAR WITNESSTO THE DIVERSITY OF THEESTATE’S TERROIR



Friulano, Verduzzo Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia

Istriana and Picolit, this latter used mainly for sweet wines.

At the end of the 1970s, Mario Schiopetto, one of the leading

lights of Friuli excellence, took over the family estate, developing

simple and innovative wine-producing methods that were

then adopted by other winemakers in the region. Following a

trip to France, he became interested in the relationship between

the quality of the wine and the hygiene of the winery, gentle

pressing of the grapes and fermentation without added sulfites.

As he explains, “A wine is its winemaker’s identity card.”

Although there are many winemakers who make good wine,

“few can truly be identified by their wine.” With his concept

of winemaking lying midway between the pursuit of personality

and of style, Schiopetto seeks to go beyond quality, an

approach that prioritises excellence and involves unique

oenological choices and methods that are still applied today

by his descendants.

… BUT LITTLE PLACE FORIMPROVISATION Yet the pursuit of oenological quality, a legacy of the Austrian

cultural influence and shared by a large majority of Friuli

winemakers, sometimes leads to a common Friuli style, leaving

little place for personal interpretation. Friuli white wines are

generally clean and consistent, both fleshy and angular, and

A PREFERRED TERROIRIn addition to the DOC appellation of Carso, the hilly areas of

DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli and DOC Collio are known for

the great quality of their terroirs of marly rock and “flysch di

Cormons” (alternating strata of marl and sandstone). This

area is responsible for Friuli’s most impressive white wines

and its internationally-known winemakers, including Jermann

and Villa Russiz. This is not to take anything away from the

DOC appellation of Isonzo del Friuli, which is similar to the

Bordeaux area of Graves, and a preferred terroir for growing

Pinot Grigio, the jewel in the crown of Friuli viticulture

internationally. Don’t forget that in 2010, Italy became the largest

supplier of wine to the British market, along with Australia

and the United States, with a 9% increase in sales volume and

a 12% increase in value according to Nielsen data - largely

thanks to sales of Pinot Grigio (part of which came from Alto

Adige) and Prosecco.

THE MARK OF FRIULI: SAVOIR-FAIRE ASSURED... Friuli’s winemakers traditionally pay particular attention to

the quality of their wine and are open to innovation. As early

as the 19th century, different French and German varieties

(particularly Chardonnay, Riesling, Traminer Aromatico and

Sauvignon) were being introduced in the region alongside

traditionally-cultivated native white varities including Tocai


Giancar lo Gal lo and his father



often have an aftertaste with a pleasant note of salinity but in

which the fruit is too subtle. Grape varieties that are considered

too “distinctive”, such as Malvasia Istriana or Traminer, are

sidelined in favour of native varieties such as Ribolla Gialla,

which is more neutral and versatile. The sought-after wine

style can sometimes mask real potential in terms of personality

and originality. Few winemakers explore the distinctive

aspects of the terroir that could be expressed in the wine; the

most important thing is considered to be offering wines of

good quality. Yet Friuli winegrowers were pioneers of sustainable


THE VIE DI ROMANS WINERY

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THE DOC APPELLATION OF ISONZO DEL FRIULI IS SIMILAR TO THE BORDEAUX AREA OF GRAVES


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cultivation in Italy; the wines represent where they were made,

even if their characteristics are somewhat consensual from one

winemaker to another. An atypical wine on the borderline of

“Friuli style” is considered a concern, and yet all the elements

required for innovative excellence are present: the terroir, rigorous

appellations and generations of winemaking skill.

In various discussions with Friuli winemakers, the idea of

making wine that distinctively represents its terroir is too close a

reminder of everyday wine drunk in rural areas; that is, too

obvious and focused on style to attract their attention. However,

the personality of a wine is closely linked to its terroir and to the

attributes that make a wine characteristic of its appellation, or

even sub-areas of an appellation. The excellence of a wine comes

not only from its irreproachable quality, but also from the

touch of natural imperfection that makes it unique. Only a

few Friuli winemakers, such as Edi Keber, Renzo Sgubin and

Davide Feresin, offer expressive and distinctive terroir wines,

principally made from Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio.

FRIULI’S AMBASSADORS OF TASTE The Vie di Romans winery, under the guiding hand of its

owner Giancarlo Gallo, offers amazingly elegant wines that

bear witness to the diversity of the estate’s terroir. Certain

wines, such as the 2009 Piere Sauvignon (91/100), come from

Italian clones, which is not the case for the 2009 Vieris

Sauvignon (88/100). In the production of the white wines,

spontaneous malolactic fermentation is consistently prevented

and controlled along with the successive addition of sulfites



Illy was founded in Trieste in 1933 by Francesco Illy. Today it produces and sells coffee in 140 countries over fivecontinents. Its unique blend of espresso is composed of nine different types of pure Arabica. Recently the companyhas taken an interest in the world of wine, which shares many affinities with the world of coffee. For Riccardo Illy,tasting a good coffee is similar to tasting a fine wine. A sommelier and avid wine lover, Riccardo, the second sonof the third generation of Illys (a family of Hungarian origin), is on an incessant quest for quality. He explains that “to makean excellent espresso, 50 coffee beans are required, but just one flawed bean can ruin it.” When asked about the best wine he has evertasted, he responds, “Romanée-Conti, of course!”

Illy pays close attention to the spread of coffee culture and to this end hascreated a “university of coffee” in Trieste (www.unicaffe.it). During

the production process, Illy coffee undergoes 125 qualitycontrol checks, with each batch receiving eight sensorial

analyses by the ten or so house tasters. As Riccardoexplains, “The unifying thread between coffee andwine is quality. At Illy, we created the university ofcoffee because learning how to taste an Illy coffeeshould be like learning how to taste a varietalwine.”

Like a wine, a coffee should first be examinedvisually to evaluate the quality of the crema (the

foam), the size of the bubbles, the extraction, thehomogeneity and the colour. The olfactory analysis is

limited by the crema, which conceals the aromas, so theseare better perceived through retro-nasal breathing. The palate

and mouthfeel are described, like a wine, based on bitterness, tannicproperties and body, as well as on smoothness, acidity and, occasionally, minerality.

Like blended wines, such as Champagne for example, the different geographic origins of the beans affect the style and the personalityof coffee blends. Illy’s ultimate aim is to strive for the characteristic Illy taste despite the vagaries of nature or political regimes (inEthiopia, for example). Riccardo also emphasises that Illy buys directly from local coffee producers, organising a competition in whichthe 30 best producers receive a prize.

In 2010, the Illy Group had a turnover of 305 million euros; today it controls Illycaffè, Domori, Damiani Frères and the Mastrojanniwine estate in Montalcino. The latter’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino gained our attention with its assertive, tannic characterand flavours of fruit and liquorice, while the 2005 is less intense, fruitier and agreeable.

By Delphine Veissière

SAVOURING COFFEE LIKE WINE



in order to retain the characteristics of the terroir. Particular

importance is placed on the quality of the acids and on the

length of maturation time. These wines have a creamy element,

but this is secondary to the fruit. Hyper-oxygenation is shunned

at Vie di Romans as it would smooth out the characteristics of

terroir, however, the Ronco del Gelso winery uses it for certain

grapes (Pinot Grigio, for example). The latter wines have

fleshy and luscious fruit, rather than the characteristic freshness

and green fruit acidity of Alto Adige wines. We should also mention

the timeless style and elegance of Venica & Venica wines, which

delight the palate with their finesse, subtlety and length. �

OUR TOP TEN PICKSOF FRIULI WHITES



VENICA & VENICA WINES DELIGHT THEPALATE WITH THEIR FINESSE,

SUBTLETY AND LENGTH

VENICA & VENICA WINERY HAS A VERY PURE ITALIAN STYLE

92/100 Vie di Romans Chardonnay 2009

91/100 Vie di Romans Piere Sauvignon 2009

91/100 Borgo San Daniele Bianco Arbis 2009

91/100 Schiopetto Mario Schiopetto Bianco 2008

90/100 Angoris Bianco Spiule 2008

90/100 Vie di Romans Flor di Uis 2009

89/100 Ronco del Gelso Sot Lis Rivis 2009

89/100 Davide Feresin Pinot Grigio 2009

89/100 Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore 2006

89/100 Venica & Venica Ronco delle Mele 2009


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Andalusiadazzling in more ways than oneIt is sometimes disappointing to see a certain degree of standardisation in theworld of wine. However if there is one region that the criticism cannot belevelled at it is Andalusia and its flagship appellation, Sherry. Extremely hot andsun-drenched yet also subject to high rainfall in the areas nearest the Atlantic,Andalusia is the cradle of rare grape varieties, amazing soils, unique wine makingmethods and consequently astonishing wines such as Sherry, the name theEnglish coined for Jerez. BY PHILIPPE VERRIER

Andalusia - dazzling in more ways than one


THE 7,600-HECTARE VINEYARD THAT PRODUCESSHERRY IS LOCATED IN THE PROVINCE OF CADIZ

With just the 14-kilometre-wide Straits of Gibraltar separating it

from North Africa, Andalusia alone embodies the whole of

southern Spain. It is the most densely-populated region and

boasts some of the country’s largest cities such as Seville, Granada, Córdoba,

Malaga and Cadiz. It is also a very varied region with one side facing the Atlantic,

the other the Mediterranean. It is home to plain areas with fairly high rainfall

such as the Guadalquivir valley, desert regions though also mountainous areas

like the Sierra Nevada and its highest peak, the Mulhacen (3,478 metres).

ONE OF A KINDThe 7,600-hectare vineyard that produces

Sherry is located in the southernmost corner

of the Iberian Peninsula, in the western part of

this huge region of Andalusia, the Province of

Cadiz. Hemmed in between the plains of the

Guadalquivir river, the banks of the Guadalete

river and the Atlantic coastline, the vineyard is

centred on the town of Jerez. It enjoys out-

standing weather with over 600 mm of annual

rainfall, over 3,000 hours of sunshine and an

average temperature of 17.3°C.

However, the vineyard’s defining feature is not

the weather but the unique combination of

unusual soil types and rare grape varieties.

Anyone travelling to Jerez for the first time is

almost dazzled by the whiteness of the soil.

Albariza or white marl reigns supreme here.

This chalky soil is reminiscent of another

appellation renowned for its superlative white

wines, Champagne. Albariza is easy to plough,

retains water and allows the vines to plunge

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ALBARIZA OR WHITE MARL REIGNS

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their roots more than six metres deep in search of complex nutrients.

The barros and arenas (clay and sand) are less prestigious soil types

yet they impart an element of complexity to the blends. The

vineyard is shared between more than 300 pagos with estates such

as Carrascal, Macharnudo, Añina and Balbaina at the top end. The

unusual nature of the soil is matched by the uniqueness of the

grape varieties. The area is home to three varieties: Palomino,

Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel. Covering almost 90% of the

appellation, the very refined Palomino varietal is virtually always

planted on albariza type soils and produces grapes that are fragile

yet bursting with highly aromatic, sweet juice. Pedro Ximenez is

related to Riesling and used primarily for making sweet wines. It

is a thin-skinned grape variety extremely well-suited to passerillage

or raisining. Moscatel, which is grown almost exclusively in the

area nearest the Atlantic, imparts Sherry a superb aromatic touch.

FLOR, CRIADERAS AND SOLERAS, IN A LEAGUE OFTHEIR OWNThe leading wineries are located in the coastal town of Sanlúcar de

Barrameda where the humid climate is best suited to ageing the

wines. The wineries provide the stage for the traditional, lengthy

ageing process that gives Sherry its personality. After being made

in the classic way, the base wines with an alcoholic strength of

between 11 and 12.5° are transferred to botas where a very rare

phenomenon occurs: the yeasts that normally die after alcoholic

fermentation is completed, continue to ferment allowing a crust

known as flor to form, usually when the humidity levels are highest

in the spring and the autumn. The flor not only protects the wine

from oxidation, it also enables the sugars to be totally absorbed

thereby birthing extremely dry wines developing the specific aromas

associated with Sherry.

The botas are then placed in layers called criaderas according to a

well-established lay-out. The first level, called solera, is placed on

the ground and houses the oldest wines. The second layer, known

as the first criadera, is used to store younger wines, the third is

called second criadera and houses even younger wines, and so on.

Some soleras may contain as many as 14 criaderas hence the need

to construct buildings sometimes over 15 metres high. When

wines from the first level (the solera) are mature, some are

removed and bottled. The remaining wines are then topped up

with wines from the second layer, which in turn have to be topped

up with wines from the layer above, and so on.

This solera and criadera ageing system was defined in 1483 in the

appellation’s first official set of rules. Its aim is to smooth out any

variations from one year to the next so as to provide a wine of

consistent quality. It implies inventories however equating to at

least three years’ harvest though this rises to seven or even nine in

the case of premium Sherries. According to Marcelino Piquero, sales

director at Bodega Sanchez Romate, “this guarantees excellent

quality but also entails extremely high production costs which

unfortunately are not passed on to retail”.

THE BOTAS ARE PLACED IN LAYERSCALLED CRIADERAS ACCORDING TO

A WELL-ESTABLISHED LAY-OUT

MARCELINO PIQUERO, SALES DIRECTORAT BODEGA SANCHEZ ROMATE

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GENEROSO, PALO CORTADO,CREAM… WELCOME TO THEWORLD OF SHERRYAlthough every type of Sherry deserves a mention, a detailed

description of each one would run into several pages. In a nutshell,

Sherry can be divided into four main categories:

GENEROSOSThese are dry wines with a maximum residual sugar content of 5 g

per litre. They are made primarily from the Palomino varietal and

as fermentation ends, a crust of yeast or flor forms. The wines are

subsequently fortified. Depending on the level of fortification,

which ranges from 15.5° to over 17°, the wine will be classed as

fino, amontillado, oloroso or palo cortado.


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this is identified by a slanting line on the botas. At the end of the

ageing process, the wines are tasted again by a panel of tasters who

decide whether they are fit to become palo cortado. If they are

deemed suitable, a horizontal line cuts through the slanting line

on the botas, hence the name palo cortado which means “broken

stroke”. The wine that was originally fortified to 15° is fortified a

second time with a resultant alcoholic strength of 17°, hence

breaking down the crust and leading to a slightly oxidative ageing

phase. This produces a marvellous Sherry showing extreme finesse

and combining aromas of Seville orange, lemon, almond, butter…

GENEROSOS DE LICORThese are generosos wines to which dessert wine is added at the end

of the wine making process. Depending on the type of wine, the

sugar content varies although it is always above 5g/litre. The

category contains three styles: Pale Cream, Medium and Cream.

Very popular in England where it accounts for over 40% of Sherry

sales, Cream is blended from generous oxidative wines (mainly

olorosos) and a significant proportion of dessert wines. It is

reminiscent of dried fruits, nougat and caramel and makes a marvellous

complement to fruit and ice cream, though also to foie gras or

blue-veined cheeses.

DESSERT WINESThese are named after the grape varieties they are made from:

Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel. They are drawn from late harvest

fruit which undergoes raisining, also known as soleo. Probably the

most elegant, or at least the most unusual of the two, the Pedro

Ximenez is made from grapes with a potential alcoholic strength

of 16° (approximately 300g of sugar per litre of must). After the

raisining process, which lasts for about ten days on racks laid on

the ground, sugar content can rise to anything up to 500g/l. Partial

alcoholic fermentation then oxidative ageing begin. The result is a

wine of extraordinary complexity suggestive of raisins, coffee,

chocolate, liquorice… The absolute must is pairing them with bitter

chocolate or goats cheeses.

DO MANZANILLA - SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDANo comment on Manzanilla would be complete with mentioning

Sanlúcar de Barrameda where the myriad bars never serve tapas

without a glass of Manzanilla. Manzanilla is a top-end wine with

a very affordable price tag. Prices range from 5-7 euros a bottle

which seems derisory considering the amount of work involved.

Over 50% of Manzanillas are drunk within Spain, mainly because

the leading importer countries overlooked it for many years, as

Some of the most noteworthy wines in this category are the finos

and they are extremely popular in Spain. Marcelino Piquero

believes “this popularity is due to a relatively low alcohol content

(roughly 15°) making them particularly suitable for hot climates.

It is also because other wines in the category were shipped to

England for many years”. Fino is also unusual in that the

fermentation process is fully completed and the wine is protected

by the flor. This is the driest wine in the generoso category. It exudes

suggestions of almond, bread and freshly-cut hay on the nose.

On the palate, it is a dry, light wine that pairs easily with

tapas, especially olive-based tapas, dried fruits, Serrano ham,

anchovies, gazpacho…

At the opposite end of the spectrum is the very refined, delicate palo

cortado. Only the best quality must is used to make palo cortado and

CREAM SHERRY IS MARVELLOUSWITH FRUIT AND ICE CREAM

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TIO PEPE IS THE HIGHEST-SELLING SHERRY BRAND IN THE WORLD

they did with fino. Manzanilla is made in a similar way to fino.

However the humid climate in Sanlúcar de Barrameda promotes

prolonged ageing “on the crust”. The crust tends to disappear after

a few years’ ageing causing slight oxidation. Manzanilla develops

floral, almond and yeast notes.

DIFFERENT COUNTRIES HAVEDIFFERENT DRINKING HABITSAs amazing as it may seem, it was not until 2010 that Spain

became the leading global market for Sherry with 12.7 million

litres, ahead of England (12.6 million litres), Holland (9 million)

and Germany (5.3 million). However, the overall figures do not

reflect huge differences in drinking habits. Manzanilla and fino

alone account for three-quarters of Sherry drunk in Spain whereas

they only account for 14 % in England. It is exactly the opposite with

the generosos de licor. They alone represent 77 % of Sherry drunk in

England, 55 % in the Netherlands and a diminutive 12 % in Spain.

The most popular Sherry worldwide is fino.



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CARMEN AUMESQUET HEADS UP PR & MARKETING AT THE TRADE BOARD


VICKY GONZALEZ, PRODUCT MANAGER OF GONZALEZ BYASS

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BRIEF GLOSSARY OF SPANISHAND SHERRY TERMS

Albariza Chalky soilBodega EstateBota A container for ageing Sherry wines. It is usually

a 600-litre butt (equivalent to 36 arrobas, 1 arroba equals 16.66 litres). To promote the growth of the “veil” or crust, the 600-litre butts are filled to the 500-litre or 30 arroba level. Two puños (or handfuls) of “headspace” are left inside.

Capataz Cellar masterDO Denominación de Origen, the controlled

appellation certifying the provenance of the wine

Encabezado The fortification processPago Vineyard sites that are hived off within the

appellation area. Similar to growth statusPalo A line drawn on the barrels to

distinguish different levels of qualitySoleo Raisining

Global Sherry consumption has fallen from over 56 million litres

just five years ago to 46 million currently, following a sharp drop

in sales in England and the Netherlands. Marcelino Piquero

believes that “focus should therefore be shifted towards the

American and Russian markets which have the added advantage

of being quality-driven ”. His opinion is shared by Carmen

Aumesquet who heads up the public relations and marketing

department at the trade board. She also emphasises Sherry’s

“extraordinary aromatic spectrum which enables the most

challenging of food pairings, particularly with Chinese, Japanese

and Indian food”. For the third time now the trade board has

therefore held the Sherry Cup inviting chefs from around the

world to design a Sherry-based menu. The results were astounding,

ranging from artichoke-based dishes to plum soup and from bull’s

tail to smoked sardines.

Another significant area for development is cocktails. Such a

broad range of styles lends itself to a mind-boggling selection of

cocktails. Gonzalez Byass owns Tio Pepe, the highest-selling

Sherry brand in the world. Its product manager, Vicky Gonzalez,

believes it is important to open Sherry bars, particularly in

London though also in emerging markets. They would serve

cocktails, tapas and most importantly would sell the Andalusian

lifestyle.

Sherry boasts a huge number of key assets: Andalusia’s image, the

sun, flamenco, highly unusual food and wine pairings… But

above all, it is a superlative wine, so different to any other wine in

the world and constantly offering new discoveries. �

A comprehensive site entirely dedicated to wine:

RegulaRly updated gilbeRt & gaillaRd tasting notes:

our encyclopaedic database, with information on production areas, grape varieties, wine regions’ histories

cFood and wine matching…

carticles, in-depth reports, comments and views, news

cthe gilbert & gaillard newsletter

All you need to know about wine!

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Read all our tasting reportson www.gilbertgaillard.com


WINE AND FOOD

Childhood memories


www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr

Gilles Goujon of three Michelin-starred restaurant l'Auberge du Vieux Puitsgives us a marvellous opportunity to step back in time with a recipe brimmingwith flavour and emotion.

During my childhood, my father was in the Forces

and we travelled a lot. We did however stay in

Marrakech for five years and I still have unforgettable

memories of that time. I think they were the best years of my

parents’ lives, with my two sisters and I. Since then, I have gone

back regularly with my family. Marie-Christine and my two sons,

Enzo and Axel, enjoy these moments with me and every time it

is a nostalgic trip back to my childhood. This recipe is a nod to

these memories, a kind of picture postcard. I like to cook this

Catalan-style lamb slowly. The pungent spices, the argan oil, the

sweetness, the tanginess, they all conjure up those childhood

memories in Marrakech…

Obviously this recipe can change with the seasons – figs can be

substituted for apricots, quinces for figs etc.

Gilbert & Gaillard

Gilles Goujon, chef at three Michelin-starred restaurant l'Auberge du Vieux Puits


RECIPESERVES 8 • Ingredients

RACK OF LAMB• 2 racks of lamb, 8 ribs Frenched and dressed by your butcher

• 1 lamb shoulder• marinade for the shoulder• 3 aubergines• 1 bunch of thyme• olive oil• argan oil• salt & pepper

LAMB JUICES• 300 g ground lamb bones• 300 g lamb trimmings• 3 l water• oil• ras el hanout blended spices• 1 fresh tomato

APRICOT PUFF PASTRY TART• 150 g ghee• 100 g granulated sugar• 250 g all-butter puff pastry• 8 apricots

Shoulder marinade• 2 natural yoghurts• 80 g chopped onion• 50 g chopped dried apricots• 100 g fresh apricot quarters• 10 cl sunflower oil• 5 cl argan oil• 1 bunch chopped coriander• 1 bunch chopped mint• ½ bunch fresh chopped thyme flowers• 15 g ras el hanout blended spices• 10 g ground ginger• 10 g ground cumin

Method

48 HOURS BEFORE• prepare the marinade• sweat the finely chopped onions and stew them with the fresh and dried apricots then leave to cool

• in a shallow dish, combine all the ingredients with the stewed mixture

• marinate the shoulder in the mixture for 24 hours

THE DAY BEFORE• remove the lamb from the marinade• in a roasting dish, brown the shoulder on each side with a little butter and olive oil. Add the marinade and 50 cl of water

• cover and cook for 7 hours at 90°C, basting occasionally• if necessary, add a little water during cooking

LAMB JUICES• brown the bones and trimmings in the oil• remove the fat, add the tomato quarters and the ras el hanout and deglaze with the white sauce base

• Cook on a medium heat for 3 hours, occasionally removing the fat and foam

• sieve using a mesh chinois• remove the fat• reduce again to a syrupy consistency• infuse with thyme• add a dash of lemon juice

AUBERGINES• cut the aubergines into 2 cm thick slices, brown them in a fryingpan with the olive oil. Add salt and pepper, drain and set aside.

• when the shoulder is half cooked, after 3 ½ hours, cover withthe aubergines and continue to cook with a lid on

RACK OF LAMBseal the rack of lamb fat side down with a little butter in the roastingtray. Fry well on all sides and cook for 8 minutes at 160°C. Leaveto rest for 10 minutes on the oven door.

APRICOT PUFF PASTRY TART• prick the puff pastry with a fork• using a pastry cutter, cut out 16 circles• butter the circles with a pastry brush and cover them with granulated sugar

• bake for 10 minutes at 200°C on a non-stick tray• separate the two apricot halves and remove the stone • butter with a pastry brush and sprinkle with sugar• Cook for 10 minutes at 220°C• Lay the cooked apricot on the caramelised puff pastry

Serving• using a table spoon, separate 8 pieces of lamb• place a piece of lamb in the middle of a plate• slice two lamb ribs per person• lay the ribs across the piece of lamb• place two slices of aubergine on them and top with the apricot tarts• Drizzle a little thyme flavoured lamb juice and add alug of argan oil

Catalan-style roast rack of lamb “el xai”,lamb tagine with candied aubergines and apricots, “Memories of Marrakech”

Serve with red wines: Côtes du Roussillon-Villages

2009, Domaine Arguti, Cuvée Ugo (93/100), or

Bandol La Bastide Blanche Fontanéou 2008 (94/100)

RESTAURANT GILLES GOUJON AUBERGE DU VIEUX PUITS5, Av St Victor - 11360 Fontjoncouse - France

Tel. +33 (0)4 68 44 07 37 - www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr


ORGANIC NEWS

Before addressing this issue, it is essential to clarify the meaning ofplant protection products. From a wine consumer perspective, it isprobably held to mean “synthetic chemicals”. Etymologicallyspeaking, however, it relates to products designed to treat plantorganisms. These may be mineral (copper sulphate) or organic(carbamates), of natural (Bacillus thuringiensis) or synthetic origin.Depending on the circumstances, they are collectively known aspesticides (the generic term) or plant protection products (the legalterm). This complexity is the first stumbling block.

Any attempt to replace these products implies

understanding their usage, which is to treat plants

against disease. The range of potential vine diseases is

extensive and also subject to change. Until the mid 19th century

for instance, phylloxera, downy mildew and powdery mildew did

not exist in Europe. Each of these diseases prompted responses,

some more satisfactory and permanent than others. Phylloxera

was all but eradicated using an extremely ecological technique:

grafting. Powdery mildew is traditionally tackled using sulphur

sourced from quarries or from volcanic activity. Downy mildew is

treated using different forms of copper.

HIGH YIELDS JUST ONE ASPECTWhat we refer to as traditional treatments are in actual fact fairly

recent when compared to the history of vine growing (6,000 years

BC). The real turning point came in the 20th century, however,

with the momentum of change increasing after the Second World

War. At that time, a large section of the European and global wine

industry adopted a more industrial approach. Change came not so

much in the form of higher yields, which had already been

achieved in the 19th century by planting on the fertile soils of

alluvial plains, but rather by using a more targeted technical

strategy: one molecule for each disease. This brought real progress

and, objectively speaking, a reduction in certain diseases.

However, more widespread, systematic and excessive use of

agrochemicals upset the balance, and sometimes imbalances can

lead to a snowball effect.

A REDUCTION IN QUANTITYAND QUALITYEveryone now agrees that regulations are required. In addition to

the customary organic approach, countries are gradually

introducing a more restrictive framework. A European regulation

provides guidance for these initiatives, reducing the quantity and

quality of products. In France, the Grenelle Environment Forum

led to the Ecophyto 2018 strategy which aims to reduce use of

pesticides by 50%. Achieving this objective involves working

towards a new equilibrium:

• controlling vine vigour (the denser the vegetation,

the greater the chance of disease),

• controlling vineyard exposure (plot selection, appropriate

trellising, pruning methods),

• promoting biodiversity (preserving hedges, trees and grass-

covered strips of land around the edges of vineyards),

• resuming mass selection (clones seem to promote the spread

of disease because each individual plant from the same

clone is identical),

• encouraging research on new grape varieties with a higher

natural resistance to disease (a very controversial issue because

it paves the way for GMOs - genetically modified organisms).

Replacing plant protectionproducts

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ORGANIC NEWS


During the vine’s growing cycle, common sense measures can be

encouraged:

• observe the vineyard

• closely monitor the weather and adapt spraying

• set the spraying machine properly (this limits pollution

and improves efficacy)

• alternate plant protection products so as to avoid

developing immunity

• adjust the dose depending on leaf mass, the sensitivity of

the grape variety and actual disease pressure

• restrict unnecessary vegetation through shoot suckering,

thinning and of course pruning

• stimulate the vine’s natural defence system

(another controversial topic)

THE RECURRENT ISSUE OFSULPHURWithout being too controversial, unreasonable over-

simplification of the debate on pesticide use in general is open to

strong criticism. The real issue is not about the quantity of plant

protection products used but about their nature and

harmlessness. The following example illustrates the point: in

organic vine growing, powdery mildew can be treated with

sulphur (powdered or wettable). This will entail the use of over

100 kg of sulphur per hectare annually. If synthetic products are

used to treat the same disease, less than 3 kg are used per hectare

annually. The combined amount of sulphur thus accounts for over

70% of vine agrochemical tonnage even though it is considered

fairly harmless to humans and the environment. Conversely,

copper is permitted (although restricted) in an organic approach

even though it is a heavy metal that is dangerous for people’s

health and soil life. These examples show how complex the

problem is. Such a complex issue deserves to be addressed with at

least some degree of equanimity, objectivity and honesty.

Jean NatoliConsultant oenologistOrganic wine grower

Chair of the VinoLatino association

A SERIOUS OUTBREAK OF NOBLE ROT ON A BUNCH OF GRAPES; ASPERGILLUS IS IN FACT BEGINNING TO DEVELOP ON THE AFFECTED GRAPES

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Shanghai has a new hot spot: the Kartel Wine Lounge. Vincent Landais was part of

the team that created Dr Wine, the highly successful wine bar that has quickly

become part of Shanghai nightlife; with this project under his belt, he was ready for

a new challenge. Driven by his passion for wine, Vincent assembled a team of talented

people motivated by excellence and creativity. The objective was to create a destination

featuring excellent wines, gourmet food, inspiring design and underground music:

after many months of tireless effort, the Kartel Wine Lounge was born.


SHANGHAI LIFE

Kartel opening: the event of the season

Kartel is a three-storey

lounge bar located in the

heart of the former French

Concession (the area of the city once

designated for the French). The

neighborhood is a pleasant mix of

residential and retail areas, Chinese

and European-style architecture,

international restaurants and tiny

street stalls, wide, tree-lined streets

and traditional lanes; it is the perfect

combination of what constitutes

Shanghai today. Designers Thomas

Dariel and Benoit Arfeuillere (voted

Best Young Designers in 2010 by Asian

Associated Design Press) wanted to

create a space in which to play with

these contrasts; taking “Destroy Chic”

as their concept, the aim was to be

elegant yet provocative in this very

heritage-focused district.

WINES ANDCOCKTAILSKartel has a distinctive selection of

wines, including some made by famous

and talented French winegrowers.

The emphasis is on organic wines, and

specifically those made according to

biodynamic principles. Kartel ' s

extensive wine list is supplemented

with a monthly rotating selection of

18 wines by the glass, offering wine

aficionados the chance to discover

grape varieties from around the globe. One

of the most surprising and exciting pages

of the drinks list is that featuring

Kartel's signature wine cocktails,

designed by the Urban Bar team. With

names such as Strawberry Crush and

Sichuan Kiss, this refreshing selection

will certainly tempt and tickle your

taste buds.

After receiving a Master’s degree in sales andmarketing in 2007, Thomas moved to China,where he learned Chinese and analysed the

prospects of this developing market. In August 2008, he created his own company,BS Wine. Based in the Gilbert & Gaillardoffice in Shanghai, he is our official

representative in China and Hong Kong.

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SHANGHAI LIFE


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Kartel Wine Lounge Fifth Floor, N°1 North Xiangyang Road, ShanghaïTel. +86 135 114 32 633

WHAT’S ON THEMENU?The menu consists of trendy French-

style tartines, innovative tapas and

gourmet burgers. Kartel also offers

diners imported Spanish cold cuts,

French cheeses, and a host of lip-

smacking desserts to round off the

meal. All the basics are homemade,

including the freshly-baked bread used

for the tartines, the sun-dried tomatoes,

and the hand-sliced potato chips which

are fried to perfection.


EXPORT

China:approaching the wine market

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“But where are wines sold?” I was asked recently by Anaël Payrou,managing director of Cellier des Demoiselles at the Chengdu WineFair. Many producers are keen to attract Chinese buyers yet they seemto be baffled by Chinese distribution channels. Some wines arrive atwarehouses in the Free Trade Zones in Shanghai, Shenzhen, Ningboand Xiamen only to be snapped up after just a couple of phone callsand hand shakes, leaving the same warehouses at breakneck speed.

Shanghai

EXPORT


Producers, promotion organisations, governments and

Chinese market players all agree the Chinese market is

booming. Now a highly-coveted destination, it means

newcomers have to be more rigorous in their approach. The

Chinese have a heightened sense of business. Any wine exporter in

the world will tell you about the ceremonial business dinners,

often attended by Party members or VIPs. This is what the Chinese

call “Mian zi” (face).

To promote a better understanding of wine distribution in China,

we interviewed people representing the different tiers: an

importer, a distributor and a consumer.

1/ IMPORTER:SUN HUI, SALES DIRECTORAT LIFENG WINESWine imports have doubled on average over the last three

years. Who is benefiting from this growth? What kind of

executive is investing in the wine trade?

Most wine importers are of Chinese origin (95%). They begin by

setting up a local network. Foreign firms are still few and far

between even though they pioneered imports at the end of the

1990s (ASC Fine Wines, French Wine Paradox, DT Asia…). At the

time, most wines were sold in multiple retail outlets, some in

parallel networks. There were few Chinese wine consumers

because of the popularity of local spirits, and the choice of wines

available was very restricted. Also, wine was an acquired taste that

took time to appreciate.

Similarly, import taxes were not conducive to imports of foreign

foodstuffs, discouraging companies from investing in the sector.

Wine was only accessible to the more affluent consumers, and

even then only occasionally. Drinking habits have changed

considerably over the last five years. The emergence of the middle

classes has been a real boon and has sparked new needs, including

wine drinking.

To be honest, though, most importers did not become rich

overnight by trading in wine. They made their fortunes either in

industry or in the property market (in the 1980s and 90s). Also, the

major players relied on their existing network that they had built

up during their years of prosperity. They have excellent connections

with leading state officials. The government is undoubtedly the

largest consumer of wine to date. Every year, private firms spend

vast amounts of money on improving their relations with local

government. Wine has become commonplace in business. The

great growths of Bordeaux are offered as gifts to leading officials.

Similarly, local government organises its own banquets and buys

large quantities of wine. Who are the suppliers? Probably the same

major players who gave them wine as gifts! Their factories are

extremely attractive economic powerhouses for the government

because they create jobs and wealth for cities. Part of the Chinese

economy relies on the growth of these industries, allowing certain

local infrastructures to be funded. Consequently, leading officials

have a vested interest in supporting them, hence, the affluence of

wine executives.

There are two main sales periods every year that must not be

missed: the Moon Festival (usually in September) and the Chinese

New Year. All Chinese firms and administrations close so the

Chinese can have a week off with their families, an occasion

nobody wants to miss. Factories with thousands of employees give

presents or “Hong Bao” (a red envelope containing money). Some

firms import as many as 15,000 or 30,000 bottles of wine

annually just to give their employees presents. There is no resale.

Obviously, the Chinese wine market is about more than relations

with local government, and cities such as Shanghai, Beijing,

Canton and Shenzhen give fairly free rein to competition. A lot of

medium-sized importers work with small producers and are

expanding well in on-trade channels.

2/ DISTRIBUTOR: MR WANG,SALES DIRECTORAT SHENZHEN XIN JIU HUIHow are distribution networks structured in China?

Firstly, there are increasingly fewer middlemen in the marketplace

which makes it easier to control prices in provinces located a long

distance from the ports. Some distributors used to sell entry-level

wines at exorbitant prices and importers failed to create

distributor loyalty. As soon as consumers became aware of the real

prices of wines, local distributors immediately switched brands to

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bound to cause health problems, so gradually, Baijiu is being

replaced by wine.

Also, we regularly read articles about the health benefits of wine.

It reduces the risk of cardio-vascular disease. Two years ago, I

made my parents drink a glass of wine at least every other day. I

told them it was good for their heart. Now they enjoy it.

Personally, I drink two glasses of wine a day. Obviously, not

everyone drinks as much but I think that in five years time one in

two Chinese people will have wine in their cellar.

Which wines do you drink most?

I am actually always on the look out for new wines. I enjoy wines

from different countries, though I do have a penchant for France.

I like the value for money in the Languedoc, the finesse of the

great Bordeaux growths (the affordable ones), the freshness of

Alsace whites… Amongst New World countries, I like Chilean

Carmenère and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. At the moment, I

am drinking a Saint Chinian Roquebrun appellation wine - Les

Fiefs d’Aupenac 2006 - that I find excellent.

Thomas Magnani


EXPORT

confuse consumers again. Business models have now changed.

Some importers are losing turnover to distributors who have

started importing. Also, the franchise system emerged two years

ago and is expanding apace. In some towns, there are as many as

ten wine shops in a single street.

Lastly, specialist logistics platforms for wine are gradually being

established through the Free Trade Zones. This is providing

producers with a faster route to market by making bonded

inventories available. A few major groups have already set up their

own sales offices in China.

3/ LOGISTICS:MANAGING DIRECTOROF SHANGHAI CARRY WAYAs a logistics co-ordinator you help importers with customs

clearance. Have you noticed an increase in the average

prices of imported wines?

I can remember starting out in logistics with a large company in

Shanghai where my task was to follow up customs clearance for our

importer clients. Entry-level wines accounted for roughly 80% of all

imported wines. Because of very high taxes, our clients were always

on the look out for the cheapest wines they could find. We have a

close relationship with them and give them as much advice as we

can. Obviously average prices have risen and buyers are increasingly

quality-driven. They want real brands. There are four buying cues

for an importer: the wine has to have a story, brands (range

consistency), value for money and a proactive wine producer.

4/ CONSUMER:MR XU, REAL ESTATE PROJECTMANAGER IN SHANGHAIWhy do the Chinese like wine so much?

Actually, I think there are three real reasons why the Chinese drink

wine: culture, rising income and health. Wine is cultural and the

Chinese like Culture with a capital C. There are many similarities

with tea. We use the same words to describe tea: we talk about

terroir, colour, aroma, finesse, balance… And we savour it in

exactly the same way as wine.

China is becoming more open-minded and consumers are more

affluent than before. We partake of more foreign food and drink.

We drink French wine, German beer, Scotch whisky, we eat Swiss

chocolate, Spanish ham… We simply want the best! The

government recently rolled out a campaign on the hazards of

drinking spirits. Traditionally, we drink a lot of Baijiu (a rice-based

spirit with an ABV of 50°) with food, but drinking it daily is

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IN SOME TOWNS, THERE ARE ASMANY AS TEN WINE SHOPS IN A

SINGLE STREET

"We are very proud to be able to reach an entirely

new audience of wine lovers to present the

best of French winemaking. The three guides

will also serve as an excellent promotional tool for our winemakers

in an increasingly competitive market. Look out for this world first

in the autumn of 2011".

GILBERT & GAILLARDgoes global!

Don’t miss the first wine guides in English, inChinese and Japanese created by French wine experts

CHINA

JAPAN


US & UK

Philippe Roux explains what makesvintage Champagne so very special.

Champagne incites celebration and pleasure like no otherwine in the world. For our greatest moments in life,commemorations, winnings, weddings, milestone

birthdays, retirements, and numerous other special moments, wereach for Champagne to mark the occasion with its effervescencethat can’t help but lighten our spirits. It is both the symbol of a grandoccasion and the grand occasion that calls for such a festive wine.

Behind the celebration and laughter though, Champagne isserious wine and serious business. Champagne is a specificwine from the Champagne region, and not a style of sparklingwine. The soil and the grape varieties grown there produce asparkling wine with its own distinctive character and methodof production. One of the particularities of Champagne givesthe producers a great deal of control over the final productthat they release: Champagne can be blended not only bygrape variety but by vintage as well. A non-vintage Champagne(to which a vintage is not attributed) is a blending of manydifferent years, each having their own characteristics, to makethe final Champagne that the blender desires. 75% ofChampagnes sold are non-vintage. They can be fun and festiveand very good but the best grapes are reserved for the vintageChampagnes; all of the grapes are from one year which isdeclared on the label.

PHILIPPE ROUX IS A SPECIALIST IN THE NICHE MARKET OF RARE VINTAGES


WINE QUOTATIONS

Old Champagnes: a surprising tasting experience

POMMERY,RUINART,MOËT &CHANDON

Vintage Champagnes are serious, complex wines that can be

aged for decades. Champagnes are not often thought of as

wines that one lies down but just as any quality wine, they do

get more interesting with age. One of the greatest wine tasters

in the world, Michael Broadbent, is passionate about old

Champagnes and has tasted several even from the 19th century,

giving some of them his highest rankings, toting their excellent

structure and distinct aromas. The carbon dioxide bubbles can

add richness over time that is distinctive in older

Champagnes. One doesn’t need to go back to the 19th century

to experience all that an older Champagne has to offer.

Drinking a wine from a year that is important in one’s life

(wedding anniversary, birthday, for example) is always

moving. Drinking a Champagne from an important year, with

all of its notions of festivity, will only add to the poignancy of

the grand celebration.

The best Champagne vintages post World War II until 2000:

1945 1952 1959 1964 1971 1982 1985 1988 1990 1996

Philippe Roux


Old Champagnes: a surprising tasting experience


CHAMPAGNE

YEAR CHÂTEAU APPELLATION VOL PRICE VAT EXCL.

1934 POMMERY Brut Rosé Champagne 0.75 l 919,73

1943 RUINART Champagne 0.75 l 664,72

1952 CANARD DUCHENE Blanc de blancs Champagne 0.75 l 249,16

1952 DOM PERIGNON Champagne 0.75 l 647,99




1966 BOLLINGER R.D. Champagne 0.75 l 413,88



1971 MUMM Cordon Rouge Magnum Champagne 1.50 l 280,10


1976 CASTELLANE (DE) Brut Champagne 0.75 l 99,50

1976 CASTELLANE (DE) Blanc de Blancs Champagne 0.75 l 107,86

1978 RUINART DOM Champagne 0.75 l 165,55

1979 MUMM René Lalou Champagne 0.75 l 216,56

1980 POMMERY Cuvée Louise Champagne 0.75 l 188,13


1982 MUMM Mumm de Mumm Champagne 0.75 l 165,55

1983 BOLLINGER Grande Année Champagne 0.75 l 149,67

1985 MUMM Grand Cordon Magnum Champagne 1.50 l 229,93

1986 MOET ET CHANDON Brut Impérial Champagne 0.75 l 165,55

1986 MOET ET CHANDON Brut Impérial Rosé Champagne 0.75 l 207,36

1986 ROEDERER Cristal Champagne 0.75 l 288,46

1988 LAURENT PERRIER Brut Millésimé - Magnum Champagne 1.50 l 158,03



1990 PERRIER JOUET Belle Epoque Champagne 0.75 l 199,83

1990 TAITTINGER Comte de Champagne Champagne 0.75 l 229,93

1990 VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN Brut Rosé Champagne 0.75 l 124,58


1998 RUINART DOM Champagne 0.75 l 116,22



Please contact us for further informations : www.gilbertgaillard.com

He is one of Hollywood’s most powerful and influential men. Every one of hisanimated feature films is a box office hit. Creator of Toy Story, Up, Rapunzel andThe Princess and the Frog, John Lasseter is the main driving force behind PixarStudios. A highly colourful figure, he rumbles with pleasure as he talks aboutCars 2, the latest, smooth-running animated feature. But talk to him about wineand his eyes light up like two brightly shining headlights…


STARS & WINE


©ALL RIGHTS RESER

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Considering the theme of Cars 2, wesimply have to ask this question, eventhough we know that alcoholic drinksand driving don’t mix. However, do youremember your very first car MrLasseter? How could I forget! My father worked asa Chevrolet dealer. The whole family,

including me, learnt to drive on a 1969Chevy Station Wagon. It was a real “cruiseship.” In just one go, we could carry ahorde of kids, cram the shopping in theboot and still be able to pile up cases ofwine because my father was a great loverof fine wines. Despite that, the car didn’thang around. It had an engine that could

really move! I was 16 and I can guaranteethat I was pretty proud to sit behind thewheel of an automobile like that!

You must also be proud to own one ofthe finest vineyards in Sonoma,California. Could you tell us a littleabout it?

John Lasseter

John Lasseter: “Wine is a family affair”

STARS & WINE


©ALL RIGHTS RESER

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Yes! Actually, I have just lost my father whodied on this property that he loved so much.My father passed away in his sleep. He was87. The last thing he saw, apart from hisfamily of course, was a marvellous sunsetout over our vineyards whilst drinking oneof our wines.

How long have you been at the helm ofthis vineyard?The love story began in 1993. We used tohave a cleaner working for us in Los Angeles.Every weekend she would make the tripto Sonoma valley and when she cameback she would wax lyrical about the beautifulcountryside that had unfurled before hereyes and especially about her passion for

wine. She was so passionately interested inthe subject and every time she mentionedher visits to wineries and encounters withwine growers, her eyes would light up. Mywife and I finally travelled there to see forourselves and it was love at first sight!

What happened ?The outcome was fairly predictable. Wewent on the same voyage of discovery as ourdelightful cleaner. Initially, we visited wine-ries, then the following year we went grapeharvesting. Very quickly we caught the winebug. We went on courses. We wanted toknow everything there was to know aboutwine and even bought hundreds of bookson the subject. For years, we took part in

groups teaching people how to make wine.Gradually, we became more confidentconnoisseurs and in 1993, we felt we wereready to go! We bought a property, hiredsome staff and began making our ownwine. There is nothing more exciting thanwatching your own vines grow. By 2000 wehad made our facilities more professional.We gave our first bottles of wine to ourfriends to celebrate the new millennium. Wehave been selling our wines for over tenyears now. We have yet to upstage the largewineries surrounding us, but at least we canbe proud of having a wine with body!

How many acres does your property cover?We own 36 acres (roughly 14.5 hectares) ofvines. We only make red, and try as much aspossible to produce a similar style toEuropean wines. They taste quite similar toSaint-Emilion. We have also designed aChâteauneuf-du-Pape-style wine blendedfrom Syrah and Grenache. In fact, I havechristened it “The Cannes Film FestivalWine” because my wife and I were theproud purveyors of wine served during theevent. The response was excellent. Duringthe latest Cannes festival we discovered awhole range of rosés. Please don’t tellAmerican customs officers this, but webrought 29 different bottles of rosé back inour suitcases! They were mainly Malbecvarietals which, to our surprise, actuallymake good rosés.

So wine at the Lasseter home is now afamily affair…Absolutely! My father and my uncle workedin wine. I took over from them and now myfive sons help me run the business and giveme a helping hand at every stage of the winemaking process. Three generations ofLasseters have been involved in winemaking. My youngest son for instance lovestrampling the grapes in our large vats.He’s a real Bacchus. In fact, I think he willgo on to study oenology!

Interview in Los Angeles by Frank ROUSSEAU

Member of the Motion Picture Association of AmericaMember of the Hollywood Foreign Press Association

John Lasseter


STARS & WINE

America’s most Francophile of actresses - along withJodie Foster - talks about her exclusive relationship withthe wines and terroirs of France.

people whose company I enjoy. The two gotogether. If there’s a good bottle of wine onthe table but none of the people I love toshare it with, I don’t open it. I wait for theright opportunity.

Which is your favourite, red, white or rosé?Rosé gives me a headache! Perhaps I justhaven’t chosen the right ones. I love tannicwines, red wines, especially Bordeaux.Actually, it’s my favourite colour for theclothes I wear. My wardrobe is very “grape-vine,” you know!

Where and when did you drink your bestwine?With friends, in Paris. I don’t rememberwhich wine it was but after just one sip itwas like the whole of France’s terroir camerushing onto my taste buds. It was anabsolutely unbelievable sensation! Whilstshooting Alien, Ridley Scott (the director)who owns a property in France, gave me awine that was absolutely out of this world.It was so good that I also forgot what waswritten on the label!

Do you remember your initial encounter,first- or second-hand, with wine?As a child, my father, who was a true wineconnoisseur, loved to hold blind tastings athome. He really appreciated the good andbeautiful things in life. Woe betide anyonewho tried to palm him off with vapidplonk! His sense of humour wouldimmediately go out the window! We usedto travel a lot with my family, mainly inFrance. I remember visiting a wine cellarhousing over 50,000 bottles of vintage wine.You should have seen my father. It was likehe had gone into Fort Knox! There was noholding him back! If we’d listened to him,

Is your relationship with wine a long-standing love affair?I love opening a bottle of wine, but not onmy own! I have to drink it with good foodand above all, with friends, family, basically

©ALL RIGHTS RESER

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Frank Rousseau and Sigourney Weaver

Sigourney Weaver: “I love tannicwines, red wines, especially Bordeaux”

we would have shipped hundreds of bottlesback to the States! My mother had to put adamper on his excitement. Admittedly, withher help we had already crammed our casesfull of Chanel!

You seem to enjoy all the ceremonysurrounding wine more than the wineitself. Am I wrong ?Yes! I tend to be wary of properties that tryand impress you with big showy vaults. I amnot saying it isn’t beautiful, just that themost interesting, most meaningful winesare the ones you don’t see or smell. Andthere’s a good reason for that: they arehidden away in oak barrels!

Interview in Los Angeles by Frank ROUSSEAU

Member of the Motion Picture Association of AmericaMember of the Hollywood Foreign Press Association

©ALL RIGHTS RESER

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ESSENTIAL TASTING: 90/100

GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL AUTUMN 2011 111

It was the founder of the house, Edmond Théodore Victor

Delaunois, who decided to become a wine grower in the 1920s. His

daughter Anne-Marie and subsequently his grandson André would

carry on the family tradition with the help of André’s two daughters and

son-in-laws, Eric Chanez and Alain Toullec. Alain’s son Anthony is now

a member of the team and embodies the next generation. The Coquard

rotating press pan fitted in 2001 ensures outstanding quality juice

sourced from the 35 plots of vines that form the 7.6-hectare Montagne

de Reims vineyard boasting first growth status. The revamped winery now

houses two 30-hectolitre oak tuns so that some cuvées can be aged in

oak. The house sells a wonderful range of closely-monitored

Champagnes, all from its own production.

90/100 Brut blanc de noirs 1er cru Dame Palmyre 2005:

Pale gold. Profound, focused nose suggestive of stone fruits. The palateshows seductive balance of vinosity and freshness, a finely-etched texture,delicious fruit character and savoury exuberance. A nicely-crafted blanc denoirs that works well as an appetiser or with food.

Champagne André Delaunois

FULL DETAILS: Appellation: Champagne - Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier - Area: 7.6 hectares - Harvest: handpicked

Vinification: Stainless steel tanks - Raising: 15 months in bottles before sale for the ”brut sans année”, 36 months for the vintages

Champagne André Delaunois - 17 rue Roger Salengro - 51500 Rilly La Montagne - France - Tel. +33 (0)3 26 03 42 87 - Fax +33 (0)3 26 03 45 40

� Tasting notes and reviews of 25,000 wines

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Page 112 Appli IPhone_Mise en page 1 Copier 1 10/06/2011 10:39 Page 1

Ayala Brut Majeur 88 88 89Charles Ellner Brut Prestige 1999 87 91 91Charles Ellner Brut Blanc de Blancs 86 88 90Charles Ellner Brut cuvée de réserve 84 90 91Charles Heidsieck Rose Reserve 90 85 93Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve 90 86 93Charles Heidsieck Blanc 98 90 95des Millenaires 1995Charles Heidsieck Vintage 2000 92 88 90Drappier Grande Sendree 2002 92 92 88Drappier Brut Carte d'Or 86 88 90Gosset Extra Brut Celebris 1998 98 96 92Gosset Grand Rose Brut 94 90 91Louis Roederer Brut Premier 90 90 91Louis Roederer Brut Cristal 2004 99 97 93Louis Roederer Brut 2004 94 90 90Piper-Heidsieck Brut 87 89 91Beaumont des Crayères 85 n/a 91Brut Grande RéserveBeaumont des Crayères 88 n/a 91Brut Nostalgie 1999Henriot Brut Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1996 95 92 97Henriot Brut Souverain 88 87 90Henriot Brut blanc de blancs 89 89 89Champagne J. de Telmont Brut 85 n/a 89Grande RéserveJacquart Brut rosé Mosaïque 88 n/a 92Jacquart Brut de Nominée 93 n/a 91Maurice Vesselle Brut grand cru 87 n/a 92Cuvée RéservéePalmer & Co Brut 86 n/a 83Bollinger Brut rosé 93 91 91

RECOMMENDED WINES


For a comprehensive overview of some great wines of Champagne, compareour tasting notes with those of our well-known American competitors.*

*www.gilbertgaillard.com , *www.erobertparker.com and *www.winespectator.com


n/a = not available

WINE SCORES

95-100/100 an outstanding wine, when a great terroir

meets exceptional winemaking expertise

90-94/100 a superlative wine combining finesse,

complexity and remarkable winemaking

85-89/100 a wine of extremely high standard, which

we enjoyed for its typicity and character

80-84/100 a quality wine combining balance,

structure and neatness for

a pleasurable wine drinking experience

75-79/100 a wine deemed acceptable

70-74/100 a wine with defects, unacceptable

65-69/100 a wine with major defects, inadmissible

50-64/100 unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in

our publications.



RECOMMENDED WINES

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - FranceTel. +33 (0)1 30 80 08 08 - Fax +33 (0)1 30 80 08 88

EDITORIAL DIRECTORS: François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard

EDITOR IN CHIEF: Sylvain Patard

TASTING COMMITTEE: François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard,Sylvain Patard, Olivier Delorme and James Turnbull

REDACTION: Michèle Huyard

CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE: Mark Andrew, Richard Craig,Nicolle Croft, Hubrecht Djuiker, Louise Hurren, Thomas Magnani, Jean Natoli, Jamal Rayyis,

Frank Rousseau, Philippe Roux, Delphine Veissière,Philippe Verrier, Christelle Zamora

TRANSLATION: Elise Bradbury, Sharon Nagel

ADVERTISING: Frédéric Comet +33 (0)6 27 5 8 47 06

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[email protected] Springfield Avenue, Summit, NJ, 07901, USA

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DISTRIBUTION SUPERVISED BY EXPORT PRESS:DISTRIBUTORS IN EUROPE:

Austria: Morawa GMBH, 1140 WienBelgium: Imapress, 2300 TurnhoutDenmark: Interpress, 2605 BroendbyFinland: Rautakirja OY, 1641 VantaaGermany: WE Saarbach gmbh, 50332 HurthHolland: Betapress, 5126PT GILZEItaly: Intercontinental, 20124 MilanoPortugal: Fraccao, 1990-075 LisboaSpain: Iber Press SL, 28042 MadridSweden: Svenska ab, 120 22 StockholmUK: Native Publisher services ltd, LS28 7LG Pudsey

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DISTRIBUTORS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW-ZEALAND:Gordon and Gotch Australia, 2086 Frenchs ForestGordon and Gotch Australia, 1006 Auckland

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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with acapital of 35,500 euros • Head office: 7 Parc des Fontenelles,78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorialdirector: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: third quarter 2011• Joint consultative committee: 0612 K 90504 • ISSN 2110-6762

Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any formis expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articlesare given for information only and have no publicity purpose.

CONTACT DETAILS OF ESTATES FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Page 15Champagne Guy Tixier+33 (0)3 26 03 42 [email protected]

Champagne Jean-Michel Pelletier+33 (0)3 26 52 65 [email protected]

Champagne Jean Vesselle+33 (0)3 26 57 01 [email protected]

Pages 28 to 41Domaine Philippe Leclerc+33 (0)3 80 34 30 [email protected]

Domaine Alain Geoffroy+33 (0)3 86 42 43 [email protected]

Domaine Jean-Max Roger+33 (0)2 48 54 32 [email protected]

Domaine Henri Rebourseau+33 (0)3 80 51 88 [email protected]

Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair+33 (0)3 80 52 21 [email protected]

Domaine Guy Bocard+33 (0)3 80 21 26 [email protected]

Domaine de la Paleine+33 (0)2 41 52 21 [email protected]

Domaine de l'Olivette+33 (0)4 94 98 58 [email protected]

Domaine Nudant Jean-René+33 (0)3 80 26 40 [email protected]

Domaine de la Vougeraie+33 (0)3 80 62 48 [email protected]

Domaine Alain Patriarche+33 (0)3 80 21 24 [email protected]

Château de Viella+33 (0)5 62 69 75 [email protected]

Domaine Jean Collet & fils+33 (0)3 86 42 11 [email protected]

Garnier et Fils+33 (0)3 86 47 42 [email protected]

Château de Santenay+33 (0)3 80 20 61 [email protected]

Page 53Cave de Turckheim+33 (0)3 89 30 23 [email protected]

Oedoria+33 (0)4 74 71 48 [email protected]

Dumange Luc+33 (0)2 47 52 61 [email protected]

Page 59Bernard Boutinet+33 (0)5 45 80 86 [email protected]

Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée 94 90 94Bonnaire Brut blanc de blancs grand cru 88 88 n/aDeutz Brut Classic 90 90 90Deutz Brut Cuvée William Deutz 1999 96 90 n/aA. R. Lenoble Brut blanc de blancs grand cru L'Epurée 88 90 n/aA. R. Lenoble Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Les Aventures 94 91 92Jean Vesselle Brut Oeil de Perdrix 90 88 n/aG.H. Mumm & cie Brut Cordon Rouge 87 87 90G.H. Mumm & cie Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Mumm de Cramant 93 89 91Duval-Leroy Brut rosé 89 88 90Duval-Leroy Brut 85 88 93Henri Goutorbe Brut grand cru Spécial Club 2002 90 90 92Henri Goutorbe Brut 1er cru Cuvée Prestige 87 89 90Huré frères Brut Sélection - L'Instantannée 2004 87 90 n/aKrug Brut Grande Cuvée 98 90 96Krug 1998 100 94 96Lancelot-Royer Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Cuvée des Chevaliers 87 91 89Laurent-Perrier Brut 87 90 90Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial 86 86 90Dom Pérignon Brut Oenothèque 1996 95 97 n/aNicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulière 87 87 89Nicolas Feuillatte Brut 86 87 n/aPierre Moncuit Brut Pierre Moncuit - Delos 89 91 91Paul Déthune Brut blanc de noirs grand cru 89 88 n/aPaul Déthune Brut grand cru 88 89 n/aPaul Déthune Brut grand cru Cuvée Prestige Princesse des Thunes 91 90 n/aPerrier-Jouët Grand Brut 86 87 91Perrier-Jouët Brut Blason rosé 90 87 92Pierre Peters Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Cuvée de Réserve 90 92 89Pierre Peters Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Les Chétillons 2002 93 95 94Pommery Brut Royal 85 88 89Sadi Malot Brut blanc de blancs 1er cru Vieille Réserve 87 88 n/aTaittinger Brut Prestige Rosé 86 92 90Vazart Coquart & fils Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Réserve 85 89 91


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Gilbert & Gaillard Magazine, October Issue