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A Shirt inthe MarketThis chapter tells us the storyof a shirt ! It begins with theproduction of cotton and endswith the sale of the shirt. Weshall see that a chain of markets links the producer of cotton to the buyer of theshirt in the supermarket.Buying and selling takes placeat every step in the chain.Does everyone benefit equallyfrom this? Or do some peoplebenefit more than others? Weshall find out.

9 C H A P T E R

C H A P T E R

C H A P T E R

C H A P T E R

C H A P T E R

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Did Swapna get a fair price on thecotton?

Why did the trader pay Swapna

a low price?

Where do you think large farmerswould sell their cotton? How istheir situation different fromSwapna?

A cotton farmer in KurnoolA cotton farmer in KurnoolA cotton farmer in KurnoolA cotton farmer in KurnoolA cotton farmer in Kurnool

Swapna, a small farmer in Kurnool (Andhra Pradesh)grows cotton on her small piece of land. The bolls of

the cotton plant are ripe and some have alreadyburst, so Swapna is busy picking cotton. The bolls,which carry the cotton in them, do not burst openall at once so it takes several days to harvest thecotton.

Once the cotton is collected, instead of selling it atKurnool cotton market, Swapna and her husbandtake the harvest to the local trader. At the beginningof the cropping season, Swapna had borrowed

Rs 2,500 from the trader at a very high interest rateto buy seeds, fertilisers, pesticides for cultivation.At that time, the local trader made Swapna agree toanother condition. He made her promise to sell allher cotton to him.

Cultivation of cotton requires high levels of inputssuch as fertilisers and pesticides and the farmershave to incur heavy expenses on account of these.Most often, the small farmers need to borrow moneyto meet these expenses.

At the traders yard, two of his men weigh thebags of cotton. At a price of Rs 1,500 per quintal,the cotton fetches Rs 6,000. The trader deductsRs 3,000 for repayment of loan and interest and paysSwapna Rs 3,000.

Swapna:Swapna:Swapna:Swapna:Swapna: Rs 3,000 only!

Trader: Trader: Trader: Trader: Trader: Cotton is selling cheap. There is a lot of cottonin the market.

Swapna:Swapna:Swapna:Swapna:Swapna: I have toiled so hard for four months togrow this cotton. You can see how fine and clean thecotton is this time. I had hoped to get a much betterprice.

2. Ginning millbuys the cotton.

1. Trader sells thecotton at the Kurnoolcotton market.

3. Ginning mill removesthe seeds and pressesthe cotton into bales.

4. Spinningmill buysthe bales.

6. Spinningmill sells theyarn to yarndealers.

5. Spinningmill spins thecotton intoyarn.

Chapter 9: A Shirt in the MarketA Shirt in the MarketA Shirt in the MarketA Shirt in the MarketA Shirt in the Market 105

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1.This is a merchants shop in the bazaar.Over the years, these traders have developed extensive contacts with

ga rment fi rms ar ou nd th e co un tr y fro m whom they get orders. These traders

purchase the yarn (thread) from others.2. The weavers live in villages around and take the yarn supplied by these traders to their homes where the looms are located in sheds adjacent to their houses. This photograph shows a

po werl oom in one su ch ho me.The weavers and their families spend

long hours working on these looms. Most weaving units have about 2 8 po werlo oms on whic h th e ya rn is woven into cloth. A variety of sarees, towels,shirting, ladies dress material and bedsheets are produced in these looms.3. They then bring back the finished cloth to the traders. Here, they can be seen

gett ing ready to go to the merchant in the town. The trader keeps an account of the

ya rn gi ven and pays them money fo r weaving this into cloth.

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What are the following peopledoing at the Erode cloth marketmerchants, weavers, exporters?

In what ways are weaversdependent on cloth merchants?

Putting-out systePutting-out systePutting-out systePutting-out systePutting-out syste mmmmm weavers producingweavers producingweavers producingweavers producingweavers producingcloth at homecloth at homecloth at homecloth at homecloth at home

The merchant distributes work among the weaversbased on the orders he has received for cloth. Theweavers get the yarn from the merchant and supplyhim the cloth. For the weavers, this arrangementseemingly has two advantages. The weavers do nothave to spend their money on purchase of yarn. Also,the problem of selling the finished cloth is taken careof. Weavers know from the outset what cloth theyshould make and how much of it is to be woven.

However, this dependence on the merchants bothfor raw materials and markets means that themerchants have a lot of power. They give orders forwhat is to be made and they pay a very low price formaking the cloth. The weavers have no way of

Chapter 9: A Shirt in the MarketA Shirt in the MarketA Shirt in the MarketA Shirt in the MarketA Shirt in the Market

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108 Social and Political LifeSocial and Political LifeSocial and Political LifeSocial and Political LifeSocial and Political Life

Weavers cooperativeWeavers cooperativeWeavers cooperativeWeavers cooperativeWeavers cooperative

We have seen that the weavers are paid very little by themerchant under the putting out system. Weavers cooperativesare one way to reduce the dependence on the merchant and toearn a higher income for the weavers. In a cooperative, peoplewith common interests come together and work for their mutualbenefit. In a weavers cooperative, the weavers form a group andtake up certain activities collectively. They procure yarn fromthe yarn dealer and distribute it among the weavers. Thecooperative also does the marketing. So, the role of the merchant

is reduced, and weavers get a fair price on the cloth.

At times, the government helps the cooperatives by buying cloth from them at a reasonableprice. For instance, the Tamil Nadu government runs a Free School Uniform programme inthe state. The government procures the cloth for this programme from the powerloom weaverscooperatives. Similarly, the government buys cloth from the handloom weavers cooperativesand sells it through stores known as Co-optex. You might have come across one of thesestores in your town.

If the weavers were to buy yarn ontheir own and sell cloth, theywould probably earn three timesmore. Do you think this is

possible? How? Discuss.

Do you find similar putting- outarrangements in making papads,masalas, beedis ? Find out aboutthis in your area and discuss inclass.

You might have heard of cooperatives in your area. It could

be in milk, provisions, paddy, etc.Find out for whose benefit theywere set up?

knowing who they are making the cloth for or at whatprice it will be sold. At the cloth market, themerchants sell the cloth to the garment factories. Inthis way, the market works more in favour of the

merchants.

Weavers invest all their savings or borrow moneyat high interest rates to buy looms. Each loom costsRs 20,000, so a small weaver with two looms has toinvest Rs 40,000. The work on these looms cannotbe done alone. The weaver and another adult memberof his family work upto 12 hours a day to producecloth. For all this work, they earn aboutRs 3,500 per month.

The arrangement between the merchant and theweavers is an example of putting-out system,putting-out system,putting-out system,putting-out system,putting-out system,whereby the merchant supplies the raw material andreceives the finished product. It is prevalent in theweaving industry in most regions of India.

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What are the demands foreignbuyers make on the garmentexporters? Why do the garmentexporters agree to thesedemands?

How do the garment exportersmeet the conditions set by theforeign buyers?

The garment exporting factory near Delhi The garment exporting factory near Delhi The garment exporting factory near Delhi The garment exporting factory near Delhi The garment exporting factory near Delhi

The Erode merchant supplies the cotton clothproduced by the weavers to a garment exportingfactory near Delhi. The garment exporting factorywill use the cloth to make shirts. The shirts will beexported to foreign buyers. Among the foreign buyersare businesspersons from the US and Europe whorun a chain of stores. These large stores do businessstrictly on their own terms. They demand the lowestprices from the supplier. In addition, they set highstandards for quality of production and timelydelivery. Any defects or delay in delivery is dealt withstrictly. So, the exporterexporterexporterexporterexporter tries his best to meet theconditions set by these powerful buyers.

Faced with such pressures from the buyers, thegarment exporting factories, in turn, try to cut costs.

They get the maximum work out of the workers atthe lowest possible wages. This way they canmaximise their own profits and also supply thegarments to foreign buyers at a cheap price.

Women workers sewing buttons in a ga rment fac tor y.


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Payment to workers (per month)

Tailoring .............................. ......................... Rs 3,000

Ironing ................................ .......................... Rs 1.50 (per piece)

Checking ........................... ........................... Rs 2,000

Thread cuttingand buttoning .............................................Rs 1,500

Write a letter to the Minister

asking for what you think wouldbe proper payment to the workers.

The Impex garment factory has 70 workers. Mostof them are women. Most of these workers areemployed on a temporary basis. This means thatwhenever the employer feels that a worker is not

needed, the worker can be asked to leave. Workers wages are fixed according to their skills. The highestpaid among the workers are the tailors who get aboutRs 3,000 per month. Women are employed as helpersfor thread cutting, buttoning, ironing and packaging.

These jobs have the lowest wages.

The shirt in the United States The shirt in the United States The shirt in the United States The shirt in the United States The shirt in the United States

A number of shirts are on display at a large clothesshop in the United States, and are priced at $26.

That is, each shirt sells for $26 or around Rs 1,200.

Use the diagram shown in the margin to fillin the blanks below.

The businessperson purchased the shirts fromthe garment exporter in Delhi for Rs _______ per shirt.He then spent Rs _______ for advertising in the media,and another Rs _______ per shirt on storage, displayand all other charges. Thus, the cost to this personis Rs 600 while he sells the shirt for Rs 1,200. Rs

__________ is his profit on one shirt! If he is able tosell a large number of shirts, his profit will be higher.

The garment exporter sold the shirt at Rs 200 perpiece. The cloth and other raw materials cost himRs 70 per shirt. The workers wages cost another

Why do you think more women areemployed in the Impex garmentfactory? Discuss.

PurchaseRs 200

Storage, etc.Rs 100

AdvertisingRs 300

ProfitRs 600

The shirt below shows the profitmade by the businessperson, andthe various costs that he had topay. Find out from the diagrambelow, what the cost priceincludes.

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Compare the earnings per shirt of the worker in the garment factory,the garment exporter and thebusinessperson in the market

abroad. What do you find?

What are the reasons that thebusinessperson is able to make ahuge profit in the market?

You have read the chapter onadvertising. Why does thebusinessperson spend Rs 300 pershirt on advertising? Discuss.

People who gained in the market

People who didnt gainas much in the market

1. ________________________

2. ________________________

3. ________________________

1. ________________________

2. ________________________

3. ________________________

Rs 15 per shirt. The cost of running his office cameto Rs 15 per shirt. Can you calculate the profit pershirt for the garment exporter?

Who are the gainers in the market?Who are the gainers in the market?Who are the gainers in the market?Who are the gainers in the market?Who are the gainers in the market?

A chain of markets links the producer of cotton tothe buyer at the supermarket. Buying and sellingtakes place at every step in the chain. Let us recallwho were the people who were involved in thisprocess of buying and selling. Did they all gain asmuch? There were people who made profits in themarket and there were some who did not gain asmuch from this buying and selling. Despite their

having toiled very hard, they earned little. Can youplace them in the table shown here?

Market and equalityMarket and equalityMarket and equalityMarket and equalityMarket and equality

The foreign businessperson made huge profitsprofitsprofitsprofitsprofits in themarket. Compared to this, the garment exportermade only moderate profits. On the other hand, theearnings of the workers at the garment export factoryare barely enough to cover their day-to-day needs.Similarly, we saw the small cotton farmer and theweaver at Erode put in long hours of hard work. Butthey did not get a fair price in the market for whatthey produced. The merchants or traders aresomewhere in between. Compared to the weavers,they have earned more but it is still much less thanthe exporter. Thus, not everyone gains equally inthe market. Democracy is also about getting a fair

wage in the market. Whether it is Kanta or Swapna,if families dont earn enough how would they thinkof themselves as equal to others?

On one hand, the market offers peopleopportunities for work and to be able to sell thingsthat they grow or produce. It could be the farmerselling cotton or the weaver producing cloth. On theother hand, it is usually the rich and the powerful


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Did you know that the readymade clothes that you buy require the work of so many different persons?

that get the maximum earnings from the market. These are the people who have money and own thefactories, the large shops, large land holdings, etc.

The poor have to depend on the rich and the powerfulfor various things. They have to depend for loans (asin the case of Swapna, the small farmer), for rawmaterials and marketing of their goods (weavers inthe putting out system), and most often foremployment (workers at the garment factory).Because of this dependence, the poor are exploitedin the market. There are ways to overcome these suchas forming cooperatives of producers and ensuringthat laws are followed strictly. In the last chapter,

we will read about how one such fish-workers cooperative was started on the Tawa river.

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EXERCISESEXERCISESEXERCISESEXERCISESEXERCISES

1. What made Swapna sell the cotton to the trader insteadof selling at the Kurnool cotton market?

2. Describe the conditions of employment as well as thewages of workers in the garment exporting factory. Doyou think the workers get a fair deal?

3. Think of something common that we use. It could besugar, tea, milk, pen, paper, pencil, etc. Discuss throughwhat chain of markets this reaches you. Can you think of the people that help in the production or trade?

4. Arrange the statements given alongside in the correctorder and then fill in the numbers in the cotton bollsaccordingly. The first two have already been done for you.

1

3

1. Swapna sells the cotton to the trader.2. Customers buy these shirts in a

supermarket.3. Trader sells cotton to the Ginning Mill.4. Garment exporters buy the cloth from merchants for making shirts.5. Yarn dealers or merchants give the

ya rn to the weavers.6. The exporter sells shirts to the businessperson from the USA.7.Spinning mill buys the cotton and sells

yarn to the yarn dealers.

8.Weavers return with the cloth.9. Ginning mill cleans the cotton and makes it into bales.

GlossaryGlossaryGlossaryGlossaryGlossaryGinning mill: A factory where seeds are removed from cotton bolls. The cotton is pressed intobales to be sent for spinning into thread.

Exporter: A person who sells goods abroad.

Profit: The amount that is left or gained from earnings after deducting all the costs. If the costs aremore than the earnings, it would lead to a loss.


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Gess 309