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AN
INTERNSHIP REPORTON
Thrupti Designers(GARMENT PRINTERS)
By,
Rajesh. K
Siva Jagadish Kumar.MTejas. Kulkarni
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Company Profile
Thrupti Designers - renowned garment printer in
Bangalore.
Started in the year of 2004.
Situated at Begur Road, Bangalore as a 2ndunit ofthis organization.
It is a first printing unit to get certified with GOTS, &
Organic Exchange certification in Bangalore. Production capacity 30,000 pieces/day of single
color.
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Customer List
Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd (Wovens & Knits Divisions)
Integra Apparels & Textiles Pvt Ltd
Natural Textiles Pvt Ltd
LVK Baby Wear Pvt Ltd Sunitha Impex Pvt Ltd
Graffiti Exports
Mahalakshmi Inc
My Choice Garments Imperial Garments (Hyderabad)
Gokaldas Exports
BLR Knits Pvt Ltd
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Infrastructure
Equipped with following machineries for
production and sampling.
Type No. of Units.
Big Tables (25 meters of each) 02
Pallet Printing Machines 12 ( 10 of 8 colours & 2 of 12 colours)
Curing Machine 01
Digital Pneumatic Fusing Machine 10
Colour Matching Cabinet (Paramount) 01
Air Compressor 01
Diesel Generator 01
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Organisation Structure
Proprietor
HRD
Manager
HR Assistant
Production
Manager
ProductionSupervisor
PrintersGrade I
Printers
Grade II
Helpers
Designer
Exposure,
Screen Maker
Assistant
Manager
Accounts
AccountsAssistant
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SCREEN
PRINTING
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Screen Printing
A process, where ink is mechanically applied
to a substrate with the use of a screen and
squeegee.
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Colour Separation
Each colour of the design requires an
individual screen so we must separate the
design into its component colours. This is
done on the computer and each colour
separation is printed to a transparent sheet.
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4 Colour Separation
4-colour process is a more advanced separation and printing technique.
Uses 4 colours of transparent ink to produce the colours from the original
design.
The four colours, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and black (CMYK), are printed as
half-tones that interact with each other and the white background of theshirt to create colour and tonal values.
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Printing Mechanics
The screen is then mounted in the press and aligned so that
each colour prints in the proper location relative to the other
colours.
Ink is loaded into the screens and squeegees are installed.
As the squeegee scrapes across the screen with the ink it fills
the stencil with ink while simultaneously bending the mesh
down to transfer the ink to the shirt.
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Screen Printing
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Multi Colour Printing
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Mesh count
The mesh count is the number of threads per
inch (tpi) used to weave the mesh.
Typical mesh counts for screen printing range
from 85 tpi to 355 tpi.
The high mesh counts, have a very small
thread diameter and less open area.
Prints require more fineness should be use
finer mesh count.
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Mesh count
Glitter 2560
Flock adhesive 45125
Puff-up colors 55125
Overprint 80110
Pigment ink printing areas/lines 110175
Plastisol 125305
Pigment inks, half-tone 155255
Sublimation transfer 195305
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Plastisol Print
Good colour opacity ontodark garments and cleargraphic detail with, as thename suggests, a more
plasticized texture. Plastisol inks require heat
(approx. 150C) to cure theprint.
Due to excess phthalate inPVC, this is banned forChildrenswear.
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Non PVC
Relatively new breed of inkand printing with the benefits
of Plastisol but without the
main toxic components - soft
feeling print.
Suitable for kids wear.
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High Density Print
This is one of the recent
developments in printing which
gives thick prints on the surface
of garments.
Achieved by either giving more
number of coats or by using
thickener indirect films used for
making the screens.
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Suedo Ink Print
Suede is a milky
coloured additive that is
added to Plastisol. With
suede additive you canmake any colour of
Plastisol have suede
feel.
Generally 50% suedeadditive to your normal
Plastisol.
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Discharge Print
Used to print lighter
colours onto dark
background fabrics, they
work by removing thedye already present in
the garment.
This gives a much softer
texture
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Sticker Print
This is ready to transferprint.
The plastisol print isalready printed on paperand will be transfered onto garment in the fusingprocess.
The main advantage ofthis method is lessexpensive.
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Pigment Print
These penetrate the
fabric more than the
Plastisole inks and
create a much softerfeel.
Also useful for larger
area prints where
texture is important.
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Glitter Print
Metallic flakes are
suspended in the ink
base to create this
sparkle effect. Usually available in gold
or silver but can be
mixed to make most
colours.
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Metallic Print
Gives metallic look.
Similar to glitter, but
smaller particles
suspended in the ink.
Smooth in texture whencompared to glitter.
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Foil Print
This printing method is
based on the use of
metallic foil paper of
aluminium or copperone.
The print fixation
method is similar to
transfer printing. Thisprint method is popular
amongst youngsters.
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Distressed/ Khadi print
It consists of titanium
dioxide with other
auxiliaries.
The important factor in
printing of this is right
combination of titanium
dioxide and proper
choice of binder.
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Puff Print
An additive to Plastisolinks which raises the printoff the garment, creatinga 3D feel.
In this method when thepaste is printed and driesit look like normalprinting garments but
once it is cured the printsgets raised from thesurface of fabric.
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Cavier Bead Print
A glue is printed in the
shape of the design, to
which small plastic
beads are then applied.
works well with solid
block areas creating an
interesting tactile
surface.
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Silicone Print
To counter inferior washand weather durability,poor hand feel of someprints like plastisol
printing mills triedsilicone inks because oftheir good washingdurability, hand feel,
elongation propertiesand environmentalfriendliness.
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Flock Print
This process involvesprinting of glue on thefabric first, applying thefiber flock on the gel
printed by keeping thefabric on special table(electro staticallycharged).
It requires a little hightime for curing thannormal prints. 120seconds at 160C will besufficient for curing.
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Organic Print
Organic print rangecovers the natural dyes,and the other pigmentdyes which lies under
the specifications madeby G.O.T.S.
For Printing OrganicDyes the company/
manufacturer shouldget the certificationfrom G.O.T.S.
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SamplingProcess
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MACHINES
USED IN
PRINTING
6- COLOUR SCREEN
PRINTING
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CAROUSAL PRINTING
MACHINE
These machines will beavailable both in automatic
and semi automatic
machines and with 4, 6, 8,
10 & 12 multi colour
models. The double springmodel gives the customers
a maintenance free
performance of the
machine. Electric heat
panels included in the
machine.
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DIGITAL FUSING
Used As Heat Transfer Press,Designs To Be Transfered ToThe Garments / Fabrics /
Leathers/ Rexin /Nylon /Polyprpelene/ Bags & etc.
Can be used for fusing likeplastisol priniting, khadi,
pigment & etc. Can Be Used As Flat Bed Fusing
Machine For Collar And CuffFusing
Platen Size Can Be IncreasedUp to 20" X 30".
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ELECTRIC CURING
MACHINE
Electric curing used for
fixing the printing paste on
to the printed fabric.
This is the alternate
method for Line Drying.So that instead of waiting
for 3-5 hours for line
drying, the electric curing
process can be completed
in few minutes.
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COLOUR MATCHING
CABINET(SPECTRA VISION) Artificial Daylight
Fluorescent Lamps (D-65) Tungsten Filament Lamps
(Inc A Lamps)
Cool White FluorescentLamp (CWF)
Triphosphor Fluorescent
Lamp (TL-84) Ultra-Violet Black Lamp
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COST, M.O.Q of the Various Types of
PrintsPrint Type Cost of Print in
Rs.
M.O.Q Curing / Fusing Suitability for
Children
Durability
Rating
Sticker Print 1 2500 Fusing No 1.5
Plastisole Print 1.5 1000 Fusing No 2.5
Pigment Print 2 1000 Curing Yes 3
Non-Pvc Print 2.5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5
Distressed (Kadi)Print
2.5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5
Foil Print 3.5 500 Fusing Yes 2
Gel Print 3 1000 Curing Yes 3
Discharge Print 3 500 Curing Yes 3
Glitter Print 3.5 1000 Curing Yes 2
Sugar Print 5 1000 Curing No 2
Metallic Print 4 1000 Curing No 2
High Density Print
(6 Coats)
5 500 Curing Yes 3.5
Puff Print 3.5 1000 Curing Yes 3
Flock Print 5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5
Silicone Print 8 500 Curing Yes 4.5
Organic Print 6.5 1000 Curing Yes 3
Bits Printing 4 2000 Fusing No 2
COST M O Q Analysis for Various
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COST, M.O.Q Analysis for Various
Types of Prints
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COST & M.O.Q Analysis for Various
Types of Prints
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Printing Defects
Improper alignment: Causes: Improper setting of two different
screens of different colour
Colour spread: Causes: Less viscosity of print paste is less. Base
fabric not fixed properly.
Improper mixing of print paste: Causes: As the name itself implies the print
paste ingredients are not mixed properly leadingto some yellowing or stain marks on print.
Scrimps: Causes: The print is done on folded fabric.
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Printing Defects
Smear
Causes: Printing is done on seams which will be of
different thickness leading in spreading and blurring.
Difference in texture Causes: Improper fusing
Improper colour matching
Causes: If printed colour is not matching with standard.
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Printing Defects
Stick in Causes: Some dust and lint which get chock in screen holes
leads in improper design.
Doubling or blurring Causes: Improper fixing of base fabric or screen.
Lint or thread marks Causes: Any loose threads come in print area will lead to
thread marks on print. Colour stains
Causes: Improper handling of material.
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Printing Defects
Glue streak Causes: The gum which used to stick garment and/or the gel which is
printed on fabric (for foil, flock etc.) strikes out of fabric through backside.
Low sharpness Causes: Improper mesh selection , damaged screen.
Coloured/White spots Causes: Improper screen preparation.
Distorted print Causes: printing of second coat before drying 1stcoat.
In general 1-3% of defective pieces in bulk order is allowed,
but since the defect occurrence is very less its always less
than the limit
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References
Web References http://www.gfxsp.com/faq_sp.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_printing
http://www.cheranfusing.com
http://www.dowcorning.com/screenprinting
Book Reference
Screen PrintingA Contemporary Approach, Samuel B. Hoff, DelmarPublishers, 59.
Industrial References
Mr. Hanumanth Rao (ManagerProduction, Thrupti Designers).
Mr. Upendra Kant (ManagerAdministration, Thrupti Designers).
Mr. Praveen. S.P. (Sr. Merchant, Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, Unit-12)
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Thank You!!!