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    AN

    INTERNSHIP REPORTON

    Thrupti Designers(GARMENT PRINTERS)

    By,

    Rajesh. K

    Siva Jagadish Kumar.MTejas. Kulkarni

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    Company Profile

    Thrupti Designers - renowned garment printer in

    Bangalore.

    Started in the year of 2004.

    Situated at Begur Road, Bangalore as a 2ndunit ofthis organization.

    It is a first printing unit to get certified with GOTS, &

    Organic Exchange certification in Bangalore. Production capacity 30,000 pieces/day of single

    color.

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    Customer List

    Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd (Wovens & Knits Divisions)

    Integra Apparels & Textiles Pvt Ltd

    Natural Textiles Pvt Ltd

    LVK Baby Wear Pvt Ltd Sunitha Impex Pvt Ltd

    Graffiti Exports

    Mahalakshmi Inc

    My Choice Garments Imperial Garments (Hyderabad)

    Gokaldas Exports

    BLR Knits Pvt Ltd

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    Infrastructure

    Equipped with following machineries for

    production and sampling.

    Type No. of Units.

    Big Tables (25 meters of each) 02

    Pallet Printing Machines 12 ( 10 of 8 colours & 2 of 12 colours)

    Curing Machine 01

    Digital Pneumatic Fusing Machine 10

    Colour Matching Cabinet (Paramount) 01

    Air Compressor 01

    Diesel Generator 01

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    Organisation Structure

    Proprietor

    HRD

    Manager

    HR Assistant

    Production

    Manager

    ProductionSupervisor

    PrintersGrade I

    Printers

    Grade II

    Helpers

    Designer

    Exposure,

    Screen Maker

    Assistant

    Manager

    Accounts

    AccountsAssistant

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    SCREEN

    PRINTING

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    Screen Printing

    A process, where ink is mechanically applied

    to a substrate with the use of a screen and

    squeegee.

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    Colour Separation

    Each colour of the design requires an

    individual screen so we must separate the

    design into its component colours. This is

    done on the computer and each colour

    separation is printed to a transparent sheet.

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    4 Colour Separation

    4-colour process is a more advanced separation and printing technique.

    Uses 4 colours of transparent ink to produce the colours from the original

    design.

    The four colours, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and black (CMYK), are printed as

    half-tones that interact with each other and the white background of theshirt to create colour and tonal values.

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    Printing Mechanics

    The screen is then mounted in the press and aligned so that

    each colour prints in the proper location relative to the other

    colours.

    Ink is loaded into the screens and squeegees are installed.

    As the squeegee scrapes across the screen with the ink it fills

    the stencil with ink while simultaneously bending the mesh

    down to transfer the ink to the shirt.

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    Screen Printing

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    Multi Colour Printing

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    Mesh count

    The mesh count is the number of threads per

    inch (tpi) used to weave the mesh.

    Typical mesh counts for screen printing range

    from 85 tpi to 355 tpi.

    The high mesh counts, have a very small

    thread diameter and less open area.

    Prints require more fineness should be use

    finer mesh count.

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    Mesh count

    Glitter 2560

    Flock adhesive 45125

    Puff-up colors 55125

    Overprint 80110

    Pigment ink printing areas/lines 110175

    Plastisol 125305

    Pigment inks, half-tone 155255

    Sublimation transfer 195305

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    17/50DIFFERENT TYPES OF PRINTS

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    Plastisol Print

    Good colour opacity ontodark garments and cleargraphic detail with, as thename suggests, a more

    plasticized texture. Plastisol inks require heat

    (approx. 150C) to cure theprint.

    Due to excess phthalate inPVC, this is banned forChildrenswear.

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    Non PVC

    Relatively new breed of inkand printing with the benefits

    of Plastisol but without the

    main toxic components - soft

    feeling print.

    Suitable for kids wear.

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    High Density Print

    This is one of the recent

    developments in printing which

    gives thick prints on the surface

    of garments.

    Achieved by either giving more

    number of coats or by using

    thickener indirect films used for

    making the screens.

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    Suedo Ink Print

    Suede is a milky

    coloured additive that is

    added to Plastisol. With

    suede additive you canmake any colour of

    Plastisol have suede

    feel.

    Generally 50% suedeadditive to your normal

    Plastisol.

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    Discharge Print

    Used to print lighter

    colours onto dark

    background fabrics, they

    work by removing thedye already present in

    the garment.

    This gives a much softer

    texture

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    Sticker Print

    This is ready to transferprint.

    The plastisol print isalready printed on paperand will be transfered onto garment in the fusingprocess.

    The main advantage ofthis method is lessexpensive.

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    Pigment Print

    These penetrate the

    fabric more than the

    Plastisole inks and

    create a much softerfeel.

    Also useful for larger

    area prints where

    texture is important.

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    Glitter Print

    Metallic flakes are

    suspended in the ink

    base to create this

    sparkle effect. Usually available in gold

    or silver but can be

    mixed to make most

    colours.

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    Metallic Print

    Gives metallic look.

    Similar to glitter, but

    smaller particles

    suspended in the ink.

    Smooth in texture whencompared to glitter.

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    Foil Print

    This printing method is

    based on the use of

    metallic foil paper of

    aluminium or copperone.

    The print fixation

    method is similar to

    transfer printing. Thisprint method is popular

    amongst youngsters.

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    Distressed/ Khadi print

    It consists of titanium

    dioxide with other

    auxiliaries.

    The important factor in

    printing of this is right

    combination of titanium

    dioxide and proper

    choice of binder.

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    Puff Print

    An additive to Plastisolinks which raises the printoff the garment, creatinga 3D feel.

    In this method when thepaste is printed and driesit look like normalprinting garments but

    once it is cured the printsgets raised from thesurface of fabric.

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    Cavier Bead Print

    A glue is printed in the

    shape of the design, to

    which small plastic

    beads are then applied.

    works well with solid

    block areas creating an

    interesting tactile

    surface.

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    Silicone Print

    To counter inferior washand weather durability,poor hand feel of someprints like plastisol

    printing mills triedsilicone inks because oftheir good washingdurability, hand feel,

    elongation propertiesand environmentalfriendliness.

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    Flock Print

    This process involvesprinting of glue on thefabric first, applying thefiber flock on the gel

    printed by keeping thefabric on special table(electro staticallycharged).

    It requires a little hightime for curing thannormal prints. 120seconds at 160C will besufficient for curing.

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    Organic Print

    Organic print rangecovers the natural dyes,and the other pigmentdyes which lies under

    the specifications madeby G.O.T.S.

    For Printing OrganicDyes the company/

    manufacturer shouldget the certificationfrom G.O.T.S.

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    SamplingProcess

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    MACHINES

    USED IN

    PRINTING

    6- COLOUR SCREEN

    PRINTING

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    CAROUSAL PRINTING

    MACHINE

    These machines will beavailable both in automatic

    and semi automatic

    machines and with 4, 6, 8,

    10 & 12 multi colour

    models. The double springmodel gives the customers

    a maintenance free

    performance of the

    machine. Electric heat

    panels included in the

    machine.

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    DIGITAL FUSING

    Used As Heat Transfer Press,Designs To Be Transfered ToThe Garments / Fabrics /

    Leathers/ Rexin /Nylon /Polyprpelene/ Bags & etc.

    Can be used for fusing likeplastisol priniting, khadi,

    pigment & etc. Can Be Used As Flat Bed Fusing

    Machine For Collar And CuffFusing

    Platen Size Can Be IncreasedUp to 20" X 30".

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    ELECTRIC CURING

    MACHINE

    Electric curing used for

    fixing the printing paste on

    to the printed fabric.

    This is the alternate

    method for Line Drying.So that instead of waiting

    for 3-5 hours for line

    drying, the electric curing

    process can be completed

    in few minutes.

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    COLOUR MATCHING

    CABINET(SPECTRA VISION) Artificial Daylight

    Fluorescent Lamps (D-65) Tungsten Filament Lamps

    (Inc A Lamps)

    Cool White FluorescentLamp (CWF)

    Triphosphor Fluorescent

    Lamp (TL-84) Ultra-Violet Black Lamp

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    COST, M.O.Q of the Various Types of

    PrintsPrint Type Cost of Print in

    Rs.

    M.O.Q Curing / Fusing Suitability for

    Children

    Durability

    Rating

    Sticker Print 1 2500 Fusing No 1.5

    Plastisole Print 1.5 1000 Fusing No 2.5

    Pigment Print 2 1000 Curing Yes 3

    Non-Pvc Print 2.5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5

    Distressed (Kadi)Print

    2.5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5

    Foil Print 3.5 500 Fusing Yes 2

    Gel Print 3 1000 Curing Yes 3

    Discharge Print 3 500 Curing Yes 3

    Glitter Print 3.5 1000 Curing Yes 2

    Sugar Print 5 1000 Curing No 2

    Metallic Print 4 1000 Curing No 2

    High Density Print

    (6 Coats)

    5 500 Curing Yes 3.5

    Puff Print 3.5 1000 Curing Yes 3

    Flock Print 5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5

    Silicone Print 8 500 Curing Yes 4.5

    Organic Print 6.5 1000 Curing Yes 3

    Bits Printing 4 2000 Fusing No 2

    COST M O Q Analysis for Various

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    COST, M.O.Q Analysis for Various

    Types of Prints

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    COST & M.O.Q Analysis for Various

    Types of Prints

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    Printing Defects

    Improper alignment: Causes: Improper setting of two different

    screens of different colour

    Colour spread: Causes: Less viscosity of print paste is less. Base

    fabric not fixed properly.

    Improper mixing of print paste: Causes: As the name itself implies the print

    paste ingredients are not mixed properly leadingto some yellowing or stain marks on print.

    Scrimps: Causes: The print is done on folded fabric.

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    Printing Defects

    Smear

    Causes: Printing is done on seams which will be of

    different thickness leading in spreading and blurring.

    Difference in texture Causes: Improper fusing

    Improper colour matching

    Causes: If printed colour is not matching with standard.

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    Printing Defects

    Stick in Causes: Some dust and lint which get chock in screen holes

    leads in improper design.

    Doubling or blurring Causes: Improper fixing of base fabric or screen.

    Lint or thread marks Causes: Any loose threads come in print area will lead to

    thread marks on print. Colour stains

    Causes: Improper handling of material.

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    Printing Defects

    Glue streak Causes: The gum which used to stick garment and/or the gel which is

    printed on fabric (for foil, flock etc.) strikes out of fabric through backside.

    Low sharpness Causes: Improper mesh selection , damaged screen.

    Coloured/White spots Causes: Improper screen preparation.

    Distorted print Causes: printing of second coat before drying 1stcoat.

    In general 1-3% of defective pieces in bulk order is allowed,

    but since the defect occurrence is very less its always less

    than the limit

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    References

    Web References http://www.gfxsp.com/faq_sp.html

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_printing

    http://www.cheranfusing.com

    http://www.dowcorning.com/screenprinting

    Book Reference

    Screen PrintingA Contemporary Approach, Samuel B. Hoff, DelmarPublishers, 59.

    Industrial References

    Mr. Hanumanth Rao (ManagerProduction, Thrupti Designers).

    Mr. Upendra Kant (ManagerAdministration, Thrupti Designers).

    Mr. Praveen. S.P. (Sr. Merchant, Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, Unit-12)

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    Thank You!!!