Gardener NewsGardener News Serving the Agricultural, Gardening and Landscaping Communities

September, 2011 SUBSCRIPTION $24 .99 Vol. 9 No. 101

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Gardener News16 Mount Bethel Road #123Warren, NJ 07059

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Do you have dead or dying evergreens?

Tom Castronovo/PhotosThe needles of these damaged Norway spruce in Mendham, Morris County, New Jersey have curled, twisted, and turned brown.

Millions of dollars’ worth of Norway spruce, white pines and other plants are at stake in New Jersey, and many other states, with Imprelis being the leading suspect.

Manufactured by DuPont and conditionally approved for sale last October by the federal Environmental Protection Agency, Imprelis is used for killing broadleaf weeds like ground ivy, plantains, wild violet, dandelion, henbit,and clover,

and was sold to licensed landscape and lawn care professionals only.

Imprelis was touted by DuPont as “an innovation that was worth the wait.”

However, reports of dying trees started surfacing around Memorial Day.

Here is what I have learned about Imprelis.

Imprelis is not approved for use in New York and California. Officials say they have told DuPont that they have detected two problems: the herbicide does not bind with soil and it leaches into groundwater.

Many lawn care applicators began using the herbicide this spring. Some have even made two applications.

Many trees are damaged, severely damaged, and are dying.

On June 17, 2011, DuPont issued a letter to professional applicators cautioning against the use of Imprelis where Norway spruce or white pine trees are present on, or in close proximity to, the property being treated.

On July 27, 2011, DuPont acknowledged to the U.S. Environmental Protection

Agency (EPA) that there has been damage to trees associated with Imprelis use and that the company had developed an Internet web page to provide information and updates concerning Imprelis use.

DuPont sent a letter to distributors on Thursday, August 4, informing them that they were implementing a voluntary suspension of the sales of Imprelis and working on a product return and refund program.

The letter was sent one day after EPA officials wrote DuPont with concerns that

it may have misbranded the herbicide because label directions and warnings are inadequate to protect non-target plant species, and that DuPont was asserting that study data on Imprelis was confidential business information that should not be disclosed to the public.

The EPA issued an order to E.I. DuPont de Nemours (DuPont) on August 10 directing the company to immediately halt the sale, use or distribution of Imprelis, an herbicide marketed to control weeds that has been reported to be (Cont. on page 8)

By Tom CastronovoExecutive Editor

Gardener News2 September, 2011 Gardener News2 G a r d e n C e n t e r d i r e C t o r y

Friday, September 235-7 PM

This Fall Restore Your LawnThe All Natural Way

Learn About Organic FertilizersEco-friendly grass seed mixturesQuestions specific to your lawn

Gardener News2 September, 2011 Gardener News2 G a r d e n C e n t e r d i r e C t o r y

Friday, September 235-7 PM

This Fall Restore Your LawnThe All Natural Way

Learn About Organic FertilizersEco-friendly grass seed mixturesQuestions specific to your lawn

Gardener News September, 2011 3Gardener News

September is the re-greening of the lawnThis month you can rejuvenate an existing lawn, start a new one, or repair one that has been

damaged by disease, drought or insects.September is the ideal time to seed; the second-best time for seeding lawns is in March or

April, depending on the weather. Lawns can also be sown at other times of the year.With early September germination, the young grass will have two or three months to

become better established before temperatures drop too low and growth stops. Next spring, the young plants will have another few months to develop deeper roots before the summer heat sets in. This is the primary reason, in my opinion, to seed in the fall. As the old saying goes…fall is for planting!

Below, I’ve prepared a few simple steps so you can have the best looking lawn in town.The first thing that you should do if you are planning to seed this fall is to take a soil test

as soon as possible. This is a very simple thing to do. Simply visit your local Cooperative Extension office to purchase a kit. Please turn to page 22 to find their telephone number. It shouldn’t cost you more than $15. Inside the kit are easy, step-by-step instructions. Soil test kits can also be purchased at your favorite garden center or hardware store.

A soil test determines the pH and takes the guesswork out of fertilization. It is also extremely cost effective. Lawns need a pH of 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic) to thrive.

A phrase has been drilled into my brain by all of the instructors at Rutgers that I have had over the past 25-plus years: “It all starts with the soil.”

Now it’s time to choose the right seed for the job.Kentucky Bluegrass – Does well in sunny areas, and it’s known for its pleasing color and

leaf texture. Seeding rates are two pounds per 1,000 square feet. Tall Fescue – Drought and high traffic tolerant. Able to survive in infertile soil. Seeding rates are four to six pounds per 1,000 square feet. Fine Fescue – For shady and dry infertile locations.Does not tolerate high traffic. Seeding rates are four to six pounds per 1,000 square feet. And Perennial Rye Grass – Has excellent color and a great survival rate. Does not do well in extremely wet areas. Seeding rates are four to six pounds per 1,000 square feet. I like the Jonathan Green Black Beauty mix.

Now this is important; the key to rapid germination is to have good seed-to-soil contact!If your lawn has dried out or has burnt-up-looking areas in it, don’t just spread seed on top

of it. If you do, more than likely, it will not grow. There are a few different ways to get a good seed-to-soil contact.

You can manually break through those burnt-up or dead areas by using a cultivator or a potato hook type of gardening tool or a good strong rake. Remember, good seed-to-soil contact is the key for proper germination.

Or you can use a slice seeder. This machine mechanically cuts horizontal grooves into the soil with its fixed blades.

After using the cultivator or running the machine over the affected areas, kind of paint the grass seed over the prepared area, then hand rake it vertically over the horizontal grooves. This will force the grass seed and the dirt back into the grooves you made in the soil.

Then, lightly fertilize the newly seeded area with a starter fertilizer. There are two different ways to help protect the grass seed from drying out, the birds and

running off from a heavy rain, and to help it during the germination process.The first way is to use an environmentally friendly biodegradable green mulch product

made by Jonathan Green.Or you can use straw…and I emphasize straw. Do not use hay. Hay contains lots of weed

seeds that can germinate in your newly prepared area, causing you lots of headaches in the future. Use one to two bales per 1,000 square feet.

Spread the straw out evenly. If you have a hilly area, it’s best to use both the green mulch and hay to stabilize the soil in case of a heavy rain.

Keep newly seeded areas moist in the top two inches through irrigation. Temporary surface drying is acceptable, but should be kept to a minimum.

When the seedlings reach a height of two inches, watering should be adjusted to two to three times per week for 20 to 30 minutes. Soil moisture should be three to five inches deep.

Do not mow the areas until the new seedlings are up about three inches. Make sure you have a sharp mower blade on your mower to prevent pulling the seedlings

out of the ground.A dull blade also shreds the grass blades, weakens the turf and turns the tips brown. Dull

blades may also increase the severity of foliar turfgrass diseases.For most lawns in New Jersey, I suggest a mowing height between 2½ to 3½ inches.

Lawns mowed at higher heights tend to have deeper roots, less weed problems, and look more attractive.

Good luck!As always, I hope you find the information in the Gardener News informative and enjoyable.Until next time…Keep the “garden” in the Garden State. -Tom

Editor’s Note: Tom Castronovo is executive editor and publisher of Gardener News, as well as host of The Gardener News Show. He is a horticultural and community educator dedicated to providing inspiration to gardeners everywhere while illuminating the most up-to-the minute horticultural approaches.

Around The GardenBy Tom Castronovo

Gardener News

Robert BelleckWater Garden Specialist

H A R D Y B A R D Y M U M SThousands to Choose from!

Gardener News4 September, 2011

Look Who’s Reading the Gardener News!

It’s in the newsNew Jersey Farm Bureau (NJFB) President ichard Nieuwenhuis looks over the “A Jersey Fresh peach will bring sweetness to your day every time” story in the August Gardener News. Nieuwenhuis, owner-operator of Scenic Valley Greenhouses LLC in White Township, is currently serving a third three-year term as the organization’s president, a post he has held since 2002. He is also serving a second two-year term on the American Farm Bureau Federation’s (AFBF) Board of Directors. He has been Northeast representative to the AFBF since 2007. The mission of the NJFB is to represent the agricultural producers and enterprises of New Jersey at all levels of government - local, county, state, federal and international. AFBF is the unified national voice of agriculture, working through their grassroots organizations to enhance and strengthen the lives of rural Americans and to build strong, prosperous agricultural communities.

Tom Castronovo/Photo

September begins with back-to-school for families with school-age children and back to regular hours and business at work for everyone else. All of a sudden, things get hectic. School sports start, the running around begins at a rapid pace. In addition to all that, there are more people on the road, which makes it harder to get from one place to another.

Convenience and ease rule the work/school week. Whenever we can, we find shortcuts to life that make things easy. Whether it is getting a friend to pick up the kids or the dry cleaning, or grabbing that easy meal that adds time back into your day. This time of year, the week flies by.

Food decisions are driven by speed and convenience. Sure, we all want to eat healthy, but who has the time? We have every good intention to skip the fast food restaurant, the pizza joint, or the hot dog stand. Sometimes it is just too easy to succumb.

There are many good choices at your local market

to pick up convenient, healthy snacks for your child or yourself. Some products are already cut and ready for you to eat or cook. Others are pickup food that can easily be consumed. Very often, these ingredients for your breakfast, lunch or dinner save you time and money (time is money, so they say).

Ready-to-eat items are perfect for a meal, snack or dessert. The most popular items are chunked fruit. Chunked fruit is mostly popular for the ready-to-eat fashion of the product but also is known for little to no waste – no skins to cut off, no seeds to get rid of. Berry mixes and other fruit medleys are appealing to the eye and palette and are unquestionably good for you. There is also a huge

following for cut mangoes. Mangoes are perceived to be too hard to cut, so most people avoid them even though they are the most popular fruit in the world.

Gaining in popularity are apple slices. Apple slices basically come in sweet and tart flavor profiles. Sweet apples are mainly the Gala and the Fuji apple. Granny Smith apples are used for the tart apples. Sliced apples come loose in bags or in snack packs that can easily be dropped into a lunchbox. Some sliced apple packets come with caramel dip that will entice you to add additional flavor to the apple.

On the vegetable side of things, sugar snap peas have piqued the interest of food lovers. Carrot and celery sticks are great for you, but

why not go down a different road every once in a while? Sugar snap peas are eaten whole and are very tasty. Dip in some ranch dressing and you have made yourself a nice snack!

Also growing in popularity is jicama. Jicama is also known as a Mexican Potato. It is crunchy and not as starchy as potatoes that we know as mainstream. It resembles more of a root than a tuber. Jicama is used on salads for the crunchy texture, simply peel the skin and cut into small cubes. Jicama can also be used in a vegetable crudite platter. Cut into sticks, rinse and lay onto the platter – also great with ranch dressing.

Ready-to-cook items start with diced and sliced onions – a great start to any

meal – and also include diced peppers, stir fry mixes, broccoli and cauliflower florets, and baby carrots.

Pick up a nice piece of seafood, chicken, or beef and use some ready-to-eat vegetables for appetizers or salad and ready-to-cook vegetables to compliment your protein. It’s not as hard as your think to put these products together for a fast and nutritious meal. Avoid takeout as much as you can. Get your daily portions of fresh fruits and vegetables, which is at least half your plate. Go to www.choosemyplate.gov for more information on getting the most out of your meals. Take the time to eat what is best for you and your family.

Passionate About ProduceBy Paul Kneeland

The King of Produce

Editor’s Note: Paul Kneeland is the Vice President of Produce and Floral for Kings Super Markets. He has been in the food business for 26 years, has a degree in Business Management from Boston College and is certified in food safety with ServSafe. He can be reached atpkneeland@kingssm.com

Convenience Foods for Busy People

R

Gardener News September, 2011 5

Farmers markets…a new way of lifeCraig Korb, executive chef for The Crab’s Claw Inn, Lavallette, along with his daughter Lucy, center, met up with New Jersey Secretary of Agriculture

Douglas H. Fisher, left, and Patricia N. Dombroski, regional administrator, Food and Nutrition Service, Mid-Atlantic Region, United States Department of Agriculture at the Seaside Park Farmers Market on Monday, August 8, 2011. The Korbs were looking over all the Jersey Fresh produce the market has to offer, and doing a little personal shopping. Secretary Fisher and USDA Regional Administrator Dombroski were on hand to officially kick off Farmers Market Week. Secretary Fisher presented the market with a proclamation from Governor Chris Christie designating the week of August 7 to 13 as Farmers Market Week in New Jersey. Likewise, Dombroski presented a proclamation for National Farmers Market Week. The Seaside Park Farmers Market, located in Marina Field, has five farmers and 14 other vendors. The market operates on Mondays from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. There are 147 community farmers markets in New Jersey, 12 of which are new this year. Farmers who attend these markets sell produce they’ve picked at the peak of ripeness within 24 hours of sale to ensure the best taste and highest quality. To locate a nearby community farmers market, visit www.jerseyfresh.nj.gov.

Tom Castronovo/Photo

Gardener News4 September, 2011

Look Who’s Reading the Gardener News!

It’s in the newsNew Jersey Farm Bureau (NJFB) President ichard Nieuwenhuis looks over the “A Jersey Fresh peach will bring sweetness to your day every time” story in the August Gardener News. Nieuwenhuis, owner-operator of Scenic Valley Greenhouses LLC in White Township, is currently serving a third three-year term as the organization’s president, a post he has held since 2002. He is also serving a second two-year term on the American Farm Bureau Federation’s (AFBF) Board of Directors. He has been Northeast representative to the AFBF since 2007. The mission of the NJFB is to represent the agricultural producers and enterprises of New Jersey at all levels of government - local, county, state, federal and international. AFBF is the unified national voice of agriculture, working through their grassroots organizations to enhance and strengthen the lives of rural Americans and to build strong, prosperous agricultural communities.

Tom Castronovo/Photo

September begins with back-to-school for families with school-age children and back to regular hours and business at work for everyone else. All of a sudden, things get hectic. School sports start, the running around begins at a rapid pace. In addition to all that, there are more people on the road, which makes it harder to get from one place to another.

Convenience and ease rule the work/school week. Whenever we can, we find shortcuts to life that make things easy. Whether it is getting a friend to pick up the kids or the dry cleaning, or grabbing that easy meal that adds time back into your day. This time of year, the week flies by.

Food decisions are driven by speed and convenience. Sure, we all want to eat healthy, but who has the time? We have every good intention to skip the fast food restaurant, the pizza joint, or the hot dog stand. Sometimes it is just too easy to succumb.

There are many good choices at your local market

to pick up convenient, healthy snacks for your child or yourself. Some products are already cut and ready for you to eat or cook. Others are pickup food that can easily be consumed. Very often, these ingredients for your breakfast, lunch or dinner save you time and money (time is money, so they say).

Ready-to-eat items are perfect for a meal, snack or dessert. The most popular items are chunked fruit. Chunked fruit is mostly popular for the ready-to-eat fashion of the product but also is known for little to no waste – no skins to cut off, no seeds to get rid of. Berry mixes and other fruit medleys are appealing to the eye and palette and are unquestionably good for you. There is also a huge

following for cut mangoes. Mangoes are perceived to be too hard to cut, so most people avoid them even though they are the most popular fruit in the world.

Gaining in popularity are apple slices. Apple slices basically come in sweet and tart flavor profiles. Sweet apples are mainly the Gala and the Fuji apple. Granny Smith apples are used for the tart apples. Sliced apples come loose in bags or in snack packs that can easily be dropped into a lunchbox. Some sliced apple packets come with caramel dip that will entice you to add additional flavor to the apple.

On the vegetable side of things, sugar snap peas have piqued the interest of food lovers. Carrot and celery sticks are great for you, but

why not go down a different road every once in a while? Sugar snap peas are eaten whole and are very tasty. Dip in some ranch dressing and you have made yourself a nice snack!

Also growing in popularity is jicama. Jicama is also known as a Mexican Potato. It is crunchy and not as starchy as potatoes that we know as mainstream. It resembles more of a root than a tuber. Jicama is used on salads for the crunchy texture, simply peel the skin and cut into small cubes. Jicama can also be used in a vegetable crudite platter. Cut into sticks, rinse and lay onto the platter – also great with ranch dressing.

Ready-to-cook items start with diced and sliced onions – a great start to any

meal – and also include diced peppers, stir fry mixes, broccoli and cauliflower florets, and baby carrots.

Pick up a nice piece of seafood, chicken, or beef and use some ready-to-eat vegetables for appetizers or salad and ready-to-cook vegetables to compliment your protein. It’s not as hard as your think to put these products together for a fast and nutritious meal. Avoid takeout as much as you can. Get your daily portions of fresh fruits and vegetables, which is at least half your plate. Go to www.choosemyplate.gov for more information on getting the most out of your meals. Take the time to eat what is best for you and your family.

Passionate About ProduceBy Paul Kneeland

The King of Produce

Editor’s Note: Paul Kneeland is the Vice President of Produce and Floral for Kings Super Markets. He has been in the food business for 26 years, has a degree in Business Management from Boston College and is certified in food safety with ServSafe. He can be reached atpkneeland@kingssm.com

Convenience Foods for Busy People

R

Gardener News September, 2011 5

Farmers markets…a new way of lifeCraig Korb, executive chef for The Crab’s Claw Inn, Lavallette, along with his daughter Lucy, center, met up with New Jersey Secretary of Agriculture

Douglas H. Fisher, left, and Patricia N. Dombroski, regional administrator, Food and Nutrition Service, Mid-Atlantic Region, United States Department of Agriculture at the Seaside Park Farmers Market on Monday, August 8, 2011. The Korbs were looking over all the Jersey Fresh produce the market has to offer, and doing a little personal shopping. Secretary Fisher and USDA Regional Administrator Dombroski were on hand to officially kick off Farmers Market Week. Secretary Fisher presented the market with a proclamation from Governor Chris Christie designating the week of August 7 to 13 as Farmers Market Week in New Jersey. Likewise, Dombroski presented a proclamation for National Farmers Market Week. The Seaside Park Farmers Market, located in Marina Field, has five farmers and 14 other vendors. The market operates on Mondays from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. There are 147 community farmers markets in New Jersey, 12 of which are new this year. Farmers who attend these markets sell produce they’ve picked at the peak of ripeness within 24 hours of sale to ensure the best taste and highest quality. To locate a nearby community farmers market, visit www.jerseyfresh.nj.gov.

Tom Castronovo/Photo

Gardener News6 September, 2011

Recycle the Gardener News

show it to a friend!

One of the things I love about plants is the image they can conjure up. While the total landscape can leave an indelible impression of beauty in your mind, I like dissecting the parts and seeing the individual beauty of a plant. For instance, a large specimen of weeping White Pine, Pinusstrobus“Pendula,” or weeping Norway spruce, Piceaabies“Pendula,” can look prehistoric and stoic. To me, both plants, in their mature state, look like Aloysius Snuffleupagus aka Mr. Snuffleupagus or Snuffy. If you have kids or remember your childhood well enough, you know I’m speaking about one of the Muppet characters from Sesame Street. A woolly mammoth, without tusks or visible ears that is similar in shape to a dinosaur. Two other plants that have proven to be fun in our garden, with very distinct style and texture, remind me of dreadlocks. Dreadlocks, for those of you who don’t know, are matted coils of hair also called locks, dreads or Jata.

A Western Red Cedar, Thujaplicata“Whipcord,” has for many years adorned our garden. Unusual foliage and a mop-like head appearance, “Whipcord” has long, thick, glossy tendrils. I have likened this plant also to Medusa, a Gorgon in Greek mythology. Clearly an unusual and interesting plant, ours has amassed compliments for years just sitting in a cobalt blue pot. The conversation usually starts with, “Wow!” or, “What is that?” “Whipcord” has proven to be a plant that most non-plant people remember. Unlike the species, which is a true giant in the forest, “Whipcord” has its branches pushing upward and quickly arching and cascading downward. With crisp green foliage in the summer, “Whipcord” picks up bronze margins in the autumn and winter, matching its inner wood. Resistant to a deer’s appetite, at least so far, “Whipcord’s” overall stature is about five feet tall and almost as wide. A perfect siting for this dwarf conifer is sun until midday and a bit of protection from hot afternoon sun. One of the stronger landscape design solutions I have seen with this plant is an embankment of “Whipcords” some 50 in total, with White Birch, Betulapapyrifera, coming through the mass. Beautiful, strong white stilts help bounce and punctuate each of these plants, leaving an impression in my mind years later. Strong, white peeling bark against deep green, glossy tendrils. What a great combination of textures! Intolerant of dry conditions, remember that Western Red Cedars are indigenous to the Pacific Northwest. Hence, cool, moist forest areas prevail. We have Drakes Crossing Nursery in Silverton, Oregon, to thank for this unique and whimsical cultivar. I’m still waiting for my light-brown seed cones (about a half-inch long) to appear.

An Oriental Arborvitae, Thuja (syn. Platycladus) orientalis“Frankie Boy” with similar texture also reminds me of dreadlocks. “Filaments of lemon-yellow foliage jut out from its lime-green interior” (Iseli Nursery). Benefitting from similar lighting and cultural conditions as “Whipcord,”“Frankie Boy,” to me, has more of a football-standing-on-end, shape to its appearance. Appreciating a yearly haircut, “Frankie Boy” will maintain a more formal look with just a little nip and tuck. Not to mention its coloring will be consistent to the before mentioned. Again, here’s another plant with unique, ropelike, brightly colored tendrils that is sure to prompt questions and offer a playful gardening experience. Finally, it has been said that the body and texture of this plant can help substitute the effects of ornamental grasses. “Frankie Boy” has no winter dieback and bright color all year.

Plants never cease to amaze me! Appreciative of all types, I am constantly admiring the forms, colors and textures that the plant world has to offer. Whether it is bark, foliage or flowers, there is never enough time to learn it all. I always chuckle when people think all plants or trees are just green. I am reminded of the musical Gigi when HonoréLachaille’s (Maurice Chevalier) appreciation for life is repudiated by Gaston Lachaille (Louis Jourdan). In it there is a song called “It’s A Bore,” where trees are said to always be green. Honoré’s view of “the myriad of treasures we have got” and “you can hear every tree almost saying look at me” have long been sentiments of mine. Life is too short not to have fun! With all the plant choices available to you today, why plant the same old impatiens and begonias in your planters? Spice things up, learn a new plant and imbibe the treasures that nature has afforded us.

“Dreadlocks”

Editor’s Note: Bob LaHoff is co-owner of Hall’s Garden Center and Florist in Union County, a member of the Union County Board of Agriculture, the New Jersey Nursery and Landscape Association, the American Boxwood Society, the European Boxwood Society, the Metro Hort Group, Inc., the Garden Writers Association, a lifetime member of the Conifer Society and past member of the retail council for Monrovia Growers. He can be reached at (908) 665-0331.

Unique PlantsBy Bob LaHoff

Nursery Specialist

Gardener News6 September, 2011

Recycle the Gardener News

show it to a friend!

One of the things I love about plants is the image they can conjure up. While the total landscape can leave an indelible impression of beauty in your mind, I like dissecting the parts and seeing the individual beauty of a plant. For instance, a large specimen of weeping White Pine, Pinusstrobus“Pendula,” or weeping Norway spruce, Piceaabies“Pendula,” can look prehistoric and stoic. To me, both plants, in their mature state, look like Aloysius Snuffleupagus aka Mr. Snuffleupagus or Snuffy. If you have kids or remember your childhood well enough, you know I’m speaking about one of the Muppet characters from Sesame Street. A woolly mammoth, without tusks or visible ears that is similar in shape to a dinosaur. Two other plants that have proven to be fun in our garden, with very distinct style and texture, remind me of dreadlocks. Dreadlocks, for those of you who don’t know, are matted coils of hair also called locks, dreads or Jata.

A Western Red Cedar, Thujaplicata“Whipcord,” has for many years adorned our garden. Unusual foliage and a mop-like head appearance, “Whipcord” has long, thick, glossy tendrils. I have likened this plant also to Medusa, a Gorgon in Greek mythology. Clearly an unusual and interesting plant, ours has amassed compliments for years just sitting in a cobalt blue pot. The conversation usually starts with, “Wow!” or, “What is that?” “Whipcord” has proven to be a plant that most non-plant people remember. Unlike the species, which is a true giant in the forest, “Whipcord” has its branches pushing upward and quickly arching and cascading downward. With crisp green foliage in the summer, “Whipcord” picks up bronze margins in the autumn and winter, matching its inner wood. Resistant to a deer’s appetite, at least so far, “Whipcord’s” overall stature is about five feet tall and almost as wide. A perfect siting for this dwarf conifer is sun until midday and a bit of protection from hot afternoon sun. One of the stronger landscape design solutions I have seen with this plant is an embankment of “Whipcords” some 50 in total, with White Birch, Betulapapyrifera, coming through the mass. Beautiful, strong white stilts help bounce and punctuate each of these plants, leaving an impression in my mind years later. Strong, white peeling bark against deep green, glossy tendrils. What a great combination of textures! Intolerant of dry conditions, remember that Western Red Cedars are indigenous to the Pacific Northwest. Hence, cool, moist forest areas prevail. We have Drakes Crossing Nursery in Silverton, Oregon, to thank for this unique and whimsical cultivar. I’m still waiting for my light-brown seed cones (about a half-inch long) to appear.

An Oriental Arborvitae, Thuja (syn. Platycladus) orientalis“Frankie Boy” with similar texture also reminds me of dreadlocks. “Filaments of lemon-yellow foliage jut out from its lime-green interior” (Iseli Nursery). Benefitting from similar lighting and cultural conditions as “Whipcord,”“Frankie Boy,” to me, has more of a football-standing-on-end, shape to its appearance. Appreciating a yearly haircut, “Frankie Boy” will maintain a more formal look with just a little nip and tuck. Not to mention its coloring will be consistent to the before mentioned. Again, here’s another plant with unique, ropelike, brightly colored tendrils that is sure to prompt questions and offer a playful gardening experience. Finally, it has been said that the body and texture of this plant can help substitute the effects of ornamental grasses. “Frankie Boy” has no winter dieback and bright color all year.

Plants never cease to amaze me! Appreciative of all types, I am constantly admiring the forms, colors and textures that the plant world has to offer. Whether it is bark, foliage or flowers, there is never enough time to learn it all. I always chuckle when people think all plants or trees are just green. I am reminded of the musical Gigi when HonoréLachaille’s (Maurice Chevalier) appreciation for life is repudiated by Gaston Lachaille (Louis Jourdan). In it there is a song called “It’s A Bore,” where trees are said to always be green. Honoré’s view of “the myriad of treasures we have got” and “you can hear every tree almost saying look at me” have long been sentiments of mine. Life is too short not to have fun! With all the plant choices available to you today, why plant the same old impatiens and begonias in your planters? Spice things up, learn a new plant and imbibe the treasures that nature has afforded us.

“Dreadlocks”

Editor’s Note: Bob LaHoff is co-owner of Hall’s Garden Center and Florist in Union County, a member of the Union County Board of Agriculture, the New Jersey Nursery and Landscape Association, the American Boxwood Society, the European Boxwood Society, the Metro Hort Group, Inc., the Garden Writers Association, a lifetime member of the Conifer Society and past member of the retail council for Monrovia Growers. He can be reached at (908) 665-0331.

Unique PlantsBy Bob LaHoff

Nursery Specialist

Gardener News September, 2011 7

One was by a red fox in a community park and the other was from a raccoon in a backyard in an in-town neighborhood. Yikes! These events prompted me to learn more, so here it is.

Rabies is a viral disease of mammals which infects the central nervous system, according to my research. Foxes are common carriers of the disease, which is usually transmitted through animal bites. There are different forms of the disease; (1) Dumb Rabies: This form of the disease attacks the spinal cord and causes the fox to isolate itself in its den, where it eventually dies. (2) Paralysis: The animal may exhibit signs of localized paralysis, such as abnormal facial expressions, drooping head or sagging jaw. (3) Aggression: The rabies-infected animal may show signs of extreme aggression, attacking other animals or inanimate objects. The animal may also bite its own limbs. (4) Furious Rabies: This form causes the animal to display the stereotypical

symptoms of rabies, including losing all sense of direction and fear, and wandering considerable distances during the day, and most of these wild animals are nocturnal by nature. Once the stereotypical symptoms appear, death usually occurs within three days.

Rabies is an infection that killed almost every one of its victims before the vaccinationwas developed. Rabies is speculated to have existed in the United States before colonization by European settlers. The first documented incident of rabies occurred in 1703 in what is now California. Dogs and foxes were the most common carriers of rabies outbreaks in the 1700s. The problem

was exacerbated by the importation of dogs and red foxes from England to the United States for the sport of fox hunting. Hmmmmm.

On July 6, 1885, the very first rabies vaccination for post-exposure treatment was given to a 9-year-old boy by the name of Joseph Meister. Joseph Meister had been mauled by a dog infected with rabies. No calling 911 in those days. Two French scientists, Emile Roux and Louis Pasteur, developed the first vaccine and administered it to the boy. Joseph Meister recovered and lived until the age of 54.The original rabies vaccine developed by Louis Pasteur and Emile Roux was created by harvesting the virus from a

dead infected rabbit. The virus was then put out to dry for five to 10 days, weakening it significantly. The weakened virus was then injected into the patient, effectively infecting him with a mild form of the virus. This allowed the human to build up an immunity to the virus, with a small risk of succumbing to the vaccine. In 1967, the human rabies vaccine, H.D.C.V. was created. The H.D.C.V. had been administered to more than 1.5 million people as of 2006. In 1979, Dr. George Beran of the Van Houweling Research Laboratory created a version of the vaccine for dogs that gave them a three-year immunity from rabies. Are your dogs vaccinated?

And then came the recombinant rabies vaccine: The V-RG vaccine was created in 1984 by people at the Wistar Institute. It was turned into a commercial product with the trademark Raboral. It has been proven to be harmless to humans and safe for a large variety of wildlife that might accidentally get it from prey. The V-RG vaccine has been used in the United States, Belgium, Germany and France to prevent rabies outbreaks in wildlife, administered orally through bait. Through this method, Germany had been completely free of new rabies cases for two years as of 2008, and is believed to be rabies-free altogether. Vaccinating wildlife results in a drastic reduction in the number of human cases. Thanks for reading and see ya next month.

The Miscellaneous GardenerBy Richard W. Perkins

Freelance Writer

“Two Recent Urban Attacks - Whoa!”

Editors Note: Richard Perkins is an avid horticulturist, a member of the Maine Writers & Publishers Alliance and the Seacoast Writers Association. He can be reached atrwptis99@aol.com

Gardener News8 September, 2011

A few of New Jersey’s best garden centers that offer Jersey Grown plant material all season long are now adding Jersey Fresh produce to their summer offerings.

As a way to encourage the predominately spring and fall customer to shop during the summer months, which is normally a slower season for them, garden centers are now hoping that their regular seasonal customers, who rely and trust them during the spring and fall season for the healthiest plant material and highest quality garden accessories, will now shop at their garden centers during the summer months for the season’s best fruits, vegetables and herbs, including longstanding kitchen favorites, as well the most flavorful heirlooms. And yes, Jersey Fresh sweet corn. The produce that they are offering is usually harvested at the peak of ripeness, within 24 hours of sale, to ensure the best-tasting and highest quality. They are also hoping their produce customers can reduce the miles a meal travels between farm and fork.

Until now, garden centers have relied on plant and flower sales, and related gardening items such as mulches, decorative stones, pavers, patio furniture, fertilizers, grass seed and tools to survive. Now they are hoping that their new fresh, healthy and delicious produce line will help with their bottom line.

Garden centers want to also make it easier for their customers to be able to purchase some of the more than 100 different kinds of nutritious fruits and vegetables the GardenState’s farmers grow. Nationally, New Jersey is one of the Top-10 producers of blueberries, cranberries, peaches, tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, snap beans, spinach, and squash.

Representatives from the New Jersey Legislature, who enthusiastically support the Jersey Fresh program and the GardenState’s garden centers, stopped by Metropolitan Plant Exchange in West Orange, and at Barlow’s in Sea Girt to see how they were making out with their new, Jersey Fresh produce venture.

Pictured above is Tony Maiello, general manager of Metropolitan Plant Exchange in West Orange, left, with New Jersey Senator Richard J. Codey. Second from right is Leslie Barlow, co-owner, Barlow’s in Sea Girt, with New Jersey Senator Sean T. Kean.

To learn more about the Jersey Fresh program, log on to www.jerseyfresh.nj.gov

Garden Centers Offer A New Local Bounty

Tom Castronovo/Photos

harming a large number of trees, including Norway spruce and white pine. The order, issued under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA), requires DuPont to stop the sale and distribution of Imprelis in the U.S. and outlines specific conditions to ensure that the removal of Imprelis from the market meets legal requirements.

This action follows EPA’s investigation into why a large number of evergreens and other trees have been harmed following the use of the herbicide. In its evaluation, EPA is investigating whether these incidents are the

result of product misuse, inadequate warnings and use directions on the product’s label, persistence in soil and plant material, uptake of the product through the root systems and absorbed into the plant tissue, environmental factors, potential runoff issues or other possible causes.

This is what is on the label:

Surface water advisory: This product may impact surface water quality due to runoff of rain water. This is especially true for poorly draining soils and soils with shallow ground water. This product is classified as having high potential for

reaching surface water via runoff for several months after application. A level, well maintained vegetative buffer strip between areas to which this product is applied and surface water features such as ponds, streams, and springs will reduce the potential loading of aminocyclopyrachlor from runoff water and sediment. Runoff of this product will be reduced by avoiding applications when rainfall is forecasted to occur within 48 hours.

Groundwater advisory: A m i n o c y c l o p y r a c h l o r has properties and characteristics associated with chemicals detected in

ground water. This chemical may leach into ground water if used in areas where soils are permeable, particularly where the water table is shallow.

Do not apply this product to exposed roots of trees and shrubs.

Do not apply this product in commercial nurseries or greenhouses.

Do not use grass clippings from treated areas for mulching or compost, or allow for collection to composting facilities. Grass clippings must either be left on the treated area, or, if allowed by local yard waste regulations, disposed of in the trash.

Applicators must give verbal or written notice to property owner/property manager/residents to not use grass clippings from treated turf for mulch or compost.

DuPont has also listed the following information on their website http://www.imprelis-facts.com/

Planting new trees:The best time to plant

a tree is in the fall or early spring (October to April) when tree growth is dormant and temperatures are cooler.

For DuPont Imprelis herbicide treatments applied at labeled rates prior to (Cont. on page 17)

Do you have dead or dying evergreens?(Continued from Page 1)

Gardener News September, 2011 9

Photo Contest Celebrates New Jersey Sustainable Agriculture

(HILLSBOROUGH, NJ) – Photographers are invited to show how much they love New Jersey’s sustainable agriculture in the Northeast Organic Farming Association of New Jersey’s 2011 Photo Contest.

Submit your best pictures of your farm, your garden, your chickens, your bees or other things farming-related.

The contest winner will receive a coupon for one full conference admission to the NOFA-NJ Winter Conference. (Not including special pre-conference seminars.)

The deadline for submissions is Oct. 1, 2011.All photos must be of a New Jersey location. Photos must

be submitted in a high-resolution JPEG format and can be sent to Joanna at jdillon@nofanj.org.

Every entry must include the following: The photographer’s name, email address and phone number; the location of the picture and names of any people in the picture.

Al entrants agree to allow NOFA-NJ the use of their photos for print and web promotional and communication materials.

For more information, call 908-371-1111 or visit www.nofanj.org

New Members Take Seats on NJ State Board of Agriculture

A diversified fourth generation farmer from Somerset County and a flower and plant grower from Monmouth County were sworn in as the two newest members of the New Jersey State Board of Agriculture during the board’s reorganization meeting in Eastampton on July 27.

Richard Norz and Robert A. Swanekamp were selected for the positions at the February 2011 State Agricultural Convention and later nominated by Governor Chris Christie and confirmed by the State Senate.

Also during the reorganization meeting, Pittsgrove vegetable farmers Henry DuBois Jr. was selected to serve as Board President and East Brunswick fruit and vegetable farmer James Giamarese as Vice President.

The State Board of Agriculture, comprising eight members, is the policy-making body of the New Jersey Department of Agriculture. Its members serve for four years, with two members being replaced each year. By law, at least four of its members must represent the top commodity groups in the state. Members serve without salary, but may be reimbursed for expenses. For more information, visit www.nj.gov/agriculture/about/sba.

By Madeline Flahive DiNardo, Union County Agricultural Agent and Master Gardeners, MC Schwartz and James Keane

Q. I’m planning on seeding my lawn this fall. Under the new NJ fertilizer regulations, will I be able to use a fertilizer that contains phosphorus? -Wondering in Winfield

A. Yes, you can use a fertilizer containing phosphorus to help get the seeds established. The NJ fertilizer regulations do ban the use of phosphorus fertilizers on turf areas, but there are some exceptions. Fertilizers containing phosphorus may be used for the initial establishment, re-establishment or repair of lawns.

The Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station (NJAES) Cooperative Extension website http://snyderfarm.rutgers.edu/fertilizerlawFAQ.html has the information you need to grow a healthy lawn and protect water quality. The regulations are meant to protect water resources from impairment by reducing the amount of nitrogen and phosphorus used on turf areas, such as home lawns.

Phosphorus is an important nutrient for newly seeded area as it promotes early root growth, thus improving plant vigor. When applied properly, phosphorous binds to soil particles and does not move through the soil.

The concern is that improperly applied phosphorus fertilizers can end up in our waterways by erosion. Just as turf needs phosphorous for root growth, aquatic weeds and algae thrive on phosphorus. High levels of phosphorous are detrimental to water quality because it can lead to eutrophication, the growth of algae and weeds. As an over abundance of algae and weeds decompose naturally, they deplete oxygen levels in the water. Low oxygen levels are harmful to fish and other aquatic life.

The first step to making a proper fertilizer application is to do a soil test. Rutgers Cooperative Extension (RCE) offers a soil testing service. Soil test kits are available for $20 at your county RCE office. For more details visit the Rutgers Soil Test Lab website at http://njaes.rutgers.edu/soiltestinglab/.

You can receive the results by email or regular mail. The soil test results will show the current levels of phosphorus, potassium and micronutrients in the soil. Based on these findings, your soil test recommendations will provide you information on the proper ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (N:P:K) to use on your lawn. The recommendations will refer you to a website that can be used to find a list of commercially available fertilizers that have the recommended N:P:K ratio.

Suppose your recommendation is to use a 2-1-1 ratio product. When selecting a fertilizer product, you’ll notice that there are three numbers on the product label, such as 20-10-10. These numbers are referred to as the “fertilizer grade”. The first number, 20, represents the total pounds of nitrogen in 100 pounds of the product. The second (10) and third (10) numbers represent the pounds of phosphorous and potassium respectively in 100 pounds of product. So, a 20-10-10 product has a N:P:K ratio of 2-1-1.

Some soil test results may show that one nutrient level such as phosphorous is below optimum and the other, potassium, is optimum or above optimum. There are fertilizer products that are available as a single nutrient. One example is rock phosphate, which has a 0-3-0 grade. If phosphorous is optimum and potassium is below optimum, a 0-0-7 product, greensand, could be used to raise the potassium level.

Even if phosphorus levels are optimum, the use of a fertilizer containing phosphorus at seeding is recommended because phosphorus does not move in the soil. It’s beneficial to apply phosphorous to the root zone at seeding so it is readily available to the new seedlings.

To prevent erosion and insure that the phosphorous stays where it is needed, the fertilizer should be incorporated into the top 4-6 inches of soil. Mixing the fertilizer into the soil prior to seeding is preferred over a surface application because there is less of a chance of runoff and the new roots will absorb the phosphorus.

Cover the newly seeded area with weed seed free hay, such as salt hay, to prevent the seeds and fertilizer from being washed away in a heavy rain. One or two bales (50-90 lbs.) will cover a 1,000 square foot area. Once the turf is established, remove the hay.

Q. Are there any other situations in which I can apply a fertilizer containing phosphorus to my lawn?

A. Yes, there are three. One is if you have a soil test recommendation for an established lawn indicating that the soil is deficient in phosphorous and an application is need to bring the phosphorus to an optimum level. The recommendation cannot be more than three years old.

An action you can take to prevent the phosphorus from getting into waterways is to apply the fertilizer when core aerating the lawn to get the fertilizer down into the root zone. Remember phosphorus binds to soil particles, so aerating will reduce the chance of erosion.

The second situation you may use a phosphorus fertilizer on turf is if applying a liquid or granular fertilizer under the soil surface, directly to the roots. The third instance is if you are using an animal or vegetable “organic” manure provided you follow the label instructions. However, no more than 0.25 pound of phosphorus per 1,000 square feet can be applied.

Following soil test recommendations and properly applying fertilizers will protect our waterways and beautiful green lawns.

Editor’s Note: The Union County Master Gardener’s HELP LINE fields hundreds of citizen inquiries a year – offering assistance with their indoor as well as outdoor gardening and pest control questions. Responses to resident phone calls and on-site visits comply with current Rutgers NJ Agricultural Experiment Station recommendations. Union County residents can call (908) 654-9852 or email mastergardeners@ucnj.org for assistance. A complete listing of Rutgers Cooperative Extension (RCE) offices where you can contact a Master Gardener in your area can be found on page 22 of the Gardener News. Free RCE fact sheets are available at www.njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs.

CASE FILESFrom the Rutgers Master Gardeners of Union County Garden Help Line

Gardener News September, 2011 9

Photo Contest Celebrates New Jersey Sustainable Agriculture

(HILLSBOROUGH, NJ) – Photographers are invited to show how much they love New Jersey’s sustainable agriculture in the Northeast Organic Farming Association of New Jersey’s 2011 Photo Contest.

Submit your best pictures of your farm, your garden, your chickens, your bees or other things farming-related.

The contest winner will receive a coupon for one full conference admission to the NOFA-NJ Winter Conference. (Not including special pre-conference seminars.)

The deadline for submissions is Oct. 1, 2011.All photos must be of a New Jersey location. Photos must

be submitted in a high-resolution JPEG format and can be sent to Joanna at jdillon@nofanj.org.

Every entry must include the following: The photographer’s name, email address and phone number; the location of the picture and names of any people in the picture.

Al entrants agree to allow NOFA-NJ the use of their photos for print and web promotional and communication materials.

For more information, call 908-371-1111 or visit www.nofanj.org

New Members Take Seats on NJ State Board of Agriculture

A diversified fourth generation farmer from Somerset County and a flower and plant grower from Monmouth County were sworn in as the two newest members of the New Jersey State Board of Agriculture during the board’s reorganization meeting in Eastampton on July 27.

Richard Norz and Robert A. Swanekamp were selected for the positions at the February 2011 State Agricultural Convention and later nominated by Governor Chris Christie and confirmed by the State Senate.

Also during the reorganization meeting, Pittsgrove vegetable farmers Henry DuBois Jr. was selected to serve as Board President and East Brunswick fruit and vegetable farmer James Giamarese as Vice President.

The State Board of Agriculture, comprising eight members, is the policy-making body of the New Jersey Department of Agriculture. Its members serve for four years, with two members being replaced each year. By law, at least four of its members must represent the top commodity groups in the state. Members serve without salary, but may be reimbursed for expenses. For more information, visit www.nj.gov/agriculture/about/sba.

By Madeline Flahive DiNardo, Union County Agricultural Agent and Master Gardeners, MC Schwartz and James Keane

Q. I’m planning on seeding my lawn this fall. Under the new NJ fertilizer regulations, will I be able to use a fertilizer that contains phosphorus? -Wondering in Winfield

A. Yes, you can use a fertilizer containing phosphorus to help get the seeds established. The NJ fertilizer regulations do ban the use of phosphorus fertilizers on turf areas, but there are some exceptions. Fertilizers containing phosphorus may be used for the initial establishment, re-establishment or repair of lawns.

The Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station (NJAES) Cooperative Extension website http://snyderfarm.rutgers.edu/fertilizerlawFAQ.html has the information you need to grow a healthy lawn and protect water quality. The regulations are meant to protect water resources from impairment by reducing the amount of nitrogen and phosphorus used on turf areas, such as home lawns.

Phosphorus is an important nutrient for newly seeded area as it promotes early root growth, thus improving plant vigor. When applied properly, phosphorous binds to soil particles and does not move through the soil.

The concern is that improperly applied phosphorus fertilizers can end up in our waterways by erosion. Just as turf needs phosphorous for root growth, aquatic weeds and algae thrive on phosphorus. High levels of phosphorous are detrimental to water quality because it can lead to eutrophication, the growth of algae and weeds. As an over abundance of algae and weeds decompose naturally, they deplete oxygen levels in the water. Low oxygen levels are harmful to fish and other aquatic life.

The first step to making a proper fertilizer application is to do a soil test. Rutgers Cooperative Extension (RCE) offers a soil testing service. Soil test kits are available for $20 at your county RCE office. For more details visit the Rutgers Soil Test Lab website at http://njaes.rutgers.edu/soiltestinglab/.

You can receive the results by email or regular mail. The soil test results will show the current levels of phosphorus, potassium and micronutrients in the soil. Based on these findings, your soil test recommendations will provide you information on the proper ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (N:P:K) to use on your lawn. The recommendations will refer you to a website that can be used to find a list of commercially available fertilizers that have the recommended N:P:K ratio.

Suppose your recommendation is to use a 2-1-1 ratio product. When selecting a fertilizer product, you’ll notice that there are three numbers on the product label, such as 20-10-10. These numbers are referred to as the “fertilizer grade”. The first number, 20, represents the total pounds of nitrogen in 100 pounds of the product. The second (10) and third (10) numbers represent the pounds of phosphorous and potassium respectively in 100 pounds of product. So, a 20-10-10 product has a N:P:K ratio of 2-1-1.

Some soil test results may show that one nutrient level such as phosphorous is below optimum and the other, potassium, is optimum or above optimum. There are fertilizer products that are available as a single nutrient. One example is rock phosphate, which has a 0-3-0 grade. If phosphorous is optimum and potassium is below optimum, a 0-0-7 product, greensand, could be used to raise the potassium level.

Even if phosphorus levels are optimum, the use of a fertilizer containing phosphorus at seeding is recommended because phosphorus does not move in the soil. It’s beneficial to apply phosphorous to the root zone at seeding so it is readily available to the new seedlings.

To prevent erosion and insure that the phosphorous stays where it is needed, the fertilizer should be incorporated into the top 4-6 inches of soil. Mixing the fertilizer into the soil prior to seeding is preferred over a surface application because there is less of a chance of runoff and the new roots will absorb the phosphorus.

Cover the newly seeded area with weed seed free hay, such as salt hay, to prevent the seeds and fertilizer from being washed away in a heavy rain. One or two bales (50-90 lbs.) will cover a 1,000 square foot area. Once the turf is established, remove the hay.

Q. Are there any other situations in which I can apply a fertilizer containing phosphorus to my lawn?

A. Yes, there are three. One is if you have a soil test recommendation for an established lawn indicating that the soil is deficient in phosphorous and an application is need to bring the phosphorus to an optimum level. The recommendation cannot be more than three years old.

An action you can take to prevent the phosphorus from getting into waterways is to apply the fertilizer when core aerating the lawn to get the fertilizer down into the root zone. Remember phosphorus binds to soil particles, so aerating will reduce the chance of erosion.

The second situation you may use a phosphorus fertilizer on turf is if applying a liquid or granular fertilizer under the soil surface, directly to the roots. The third instance is if you are using an animal or vegetable “organic” manure provided you follow the label instructions. However, no more than 0.25 pound of phosphorus per 1,000 square feet can be applied.

Following soil test recommendations and properly applying fertilizers will protect our waterways and beautiful green lawns.

Editor’s Note: The Union County Master Gardener’s HELP LINE fields hundreds of citizen inquiries a year – offering assistance with their indoor as well as outdoor gardening and pest control questions. Responses to resident phone calls and on-site visits comply with current Rutgers NJ Agricultural Experiment Station recommendations. Union County residents can call (908) 654-9852 or email mastergardeners@ucnj.org for assistance. A complete listing of Rutgers Cooperative Extension (RCE) offices where you can contact a Master Gardener in your area can be found on page 22 of the Gardener News. Free RCE fact sheets are available at www.njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs.

CASE FILESFrom the Rutgers Master Gardeners of Union County Garden Help Line

Gardener News10 September, 2011

Wet and Flooding to Dry and Parched Sounds Like a Beach Boys Song

I know I sound like I’m on vacation and we have snuck away for a few days to soak up the sun and catch the odd fluke and blackfish. But after this brief respite, we will be hard at work remedying our lawns and landscape plants, which are still trying to figure out what the Jersey skies have in store for them.

At times and we have been broiling in 100-degree heat with no rain for days, and other times we have been flooded for days. Usually we have to be aware of the judicious use of water at this time of year, but that is not our number-one concern now. It seems that we may actually get through a whole year without water restrictions. We still need to be judicious with our water use, but we can at least prudently water our plants to keep proper hydration, not only your lawn but your landscape plants as well. If after getting a thorough soaking your plants don’t respond, it is time to consider replacement.

Before we replace plants, we need to consider if there is any other reason which may be contributing to their demise. Has there been any change in exposure which could have created more or less sunlight or created a drainage problem? Some examples may be tree removal, surrounding plants which have grown, building additions or changes or just competition from the surrounding plantings. These all need to be considered since we usually see more than one component contribute to a problem for our landscape.

If we are convinced that weather was what caused our plants to fail, then we can replace with the same or similar plant material. However, if it is obvious that we have more than just the varying conditions, we will need to address the problem differently. Obviously, more sunlight will create the need to avoid plants which will not thrive in the sun as well as avoiding plants which need full sun in shadier conditions than there used to be. Care needs to be given to investigate the soil conditions and whether the site is too wet or if there is competition in the root zone, which may create a condition where some of the plants roots are in too much competition for nutrients and water. In these instances, changes in plant material, as well as more excavation to create a more favorable environment for the plants roots, would be necessary.

Our lawns have for the most part taken a beating in this summer’s weather. September is the perfect time to plant and over-seed as well. The cooler, longer nights early in the month offer a perfect environment for seed germination and a successful lawn renovation. Again, an investigation into the conditions which affect our plants also applies for our lawns. Have any conditions changed which have created more or less sunlight or even the growth and expansion of existing trees and shrubs may impact not only the exposure but also the root zone? Masses of roots just below the surface can make for challenging lawn growth. Often we will substitute ground covers in these areas, which will become a successful alternative as well as helping to minimize maintenance.

Once the site conditions have been addressed, we can over-seed. Picking the proper seed for your lawn can be as simple as using a good sunny or local blend in the sun and a shady mix in the shade. Just be sure to remember that all lawns need adequate light even if filtered in the shade and, just as important, lawns need air space. Elevating some of your low hanging trees and shrubs can be of immeasurable help in a successful lawn renovation.

The only way a lawn renovation can be successful is if we have good seed-to-soil contact. On small lawns and spot seeding, we can incorporate the seed into these bare spots by cultivating it in and even topdressing a seed and soil mix. On larger lawns or thin lawns where we want to get a fuller crop growing, we will need to use one of the many seeding machines available. A slit seeder, lawn comber or groomer, or a core aerator or spiker can all be used. Some of these machines will drop the seed into the seed bed automatically and others will need to have the seed applied after the operation is complete. In areas with high thatch accumulation, it may be necessary to remove some of this layer before adding seed. Again, we need excellent seed-to-soil contact or our efforts will be in vain. Open areas where complete seeding is needed can be worked by the use of a seed and soil mix applied or cultivation and seeding as well as hydro-seeding. These areas will need some cover after seeding is completed. Use of salt hay or a cellulose seed top dress are excellent options on areas which are not hydro-seeded. Hydro-seeded areas should come with their own mulch applied as part of the mix.

Your local landscape professional, nursery and garden center, and even the equipment rental companies can be of assistance in advising you how to make your renovations a success, whether a do-it- yourself job or one you will contract out for.

The LandscaperBy Evan Dickerson

NJNLA

Evan Dickerson is a senior director of the New Jersey Nursey and Landscape Association. He can be reached at (908) 753-1490. To learn more about the New Jersey Nursey and Landscape Association, please visit: www.NJNLA.org

Gardener Newsis

Now Accepting Nominationsfor its

2011Person of the Year Award.Do you know someone in the “Green Industry”

whose contributions deserve recognition?

This person must be from the landscape, nursery, garden center or gardening industries who best epitomizes concern for, involvement

in, and dedication to those pursuits. Or a person who performs exemplary outstanding service to

the green industry.

The deadline for receiving nominations for 2011 is November 1, 2011.

Gardener News annually bestows our“Person of the Year” Award in our

January edition.To download the form, please visit

www.GardenerNews.com and click on the “Person of the Year” link on the left side.

Thank you!

Gardener News September, 2011 11L a n d s c a p e r d i r e c to ry

ResidentialGroundSolutions

GradingLight Excavating

Design and installations new and older renovations Perennial rock gardens•Backhoe work

Water & Drainage problems solved•Stone work

732-668-2012 Serving CentralNew JerseyNJHIC# 13VH03659100

Member of:

FLORIST700 Springfield Avenue

Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922Phone: (908) 665-0331

Fax: (908) 665-9804email: hallsgarden@earthlink.net

www.hallsgarden.com

Visit Our Showroom& Display Area

Brick Pavers Decorative Gravel Retaining Wall Block Limestone & Bluestone Fieldstone Mulches Top Soil

Grass Seed Fertilizer Drainage Products Lawn & Garden Tools Landscape Lighting Masonry Supplies Playground Safety Surface

Shop Where The Landscape Professionals Shop

311 Roycefield Road, Hillsborough (Just off Dukes Parkway West)

WE HAVEBULK COMPOST

Bocci, Cricket,Horseshoe

and Pond Clay.Baseball Infield Mix

Gardener News10 September, 2011

Wet and Flooding to Dry and Parched Sounds Like a Beach Boys Song

I know I sound like I’m on vacation and we have snuck away for a few days to soak up the sun and catch the odd fluke and blackfish. But after this brief respite, we will be hard at work remedying our lawns and landscape plants, which are still trying to figure out what the Jersey skies have in store for them.

At times and we have been broiling in 100-degree heat with no rain for days, and other times we have been flooded for days. Usually we have to be aware of the judicious use of water at this time of year, but that is not our number-one concern now. It seems that we may actually get through a whole year without water restrictions. We still need to be judicious with our water use, but we can at least prudently water our plants to keep proper hydration, not only your lawn but your landscape plants as well. If after getting a thorough soaking your plants don’t respond, it is time to consider replacement.

Before we replace plants, we need to consider if there is any other reason which may be contributing to their demise. Has there been any change in exposure which could have created more or less sunlight or created a drainage problem? Some examples may be tree removal, surrounding plants which have grown, building additions or changes or just competition from the surrounding plantings. These all need to be considered since we usually see more than one component contribute to a problem for our landscape.

If we are convinced that weather was what caused our plants to fail, then we can replace with the same or similar plant material. However, if it is obvious that we have more than just the varying conditions, we will need to address the problem differently. Obviously, more sunlight will create the need to avoid plants which will not thrive in the sun as well as avoiding plants which need full sun in shadier conditions than there used to be. Care needs to be given to investigate the soil conditions and whether the site is too wet or if there is competition in the root zone, which may create a condition where some of the plants roots are in too much competition for nutrients and water. In these instances, changes in plant material, as well as more excavation to create a more favorable environment for the plants roots, would be necessary.

Our lawns have for the most part taken a beating in this summer’s weather. September is the perfect time to plant and over-seed as well. The cooler, longer nights early in the month offer a perfect environment for seed germination and a successful lawn renovation. Again, an investigation into the conditions which affect our plants also applies for our lawns. Have any conditions changed which have created more or less sunlight or even the growth and expansion of existing trees and shrubs may impact not only the exposure but also the root zone? Masses of roots just below the surface can make for challenging lawn growth. Often we will substitute ground covers in these areas, which will become a successful alternative as well as helping to minimize maintenance.

Once the site conditions have been addressed, we can over-seed. Picking the proper seed for your lawn can be as simple as using a good sunny or local blend in the sun and a shady mix in the shade. Just be sure to remember that all lawns need adequate light even if filtered in the shade and, just as important, lawns need air space. Elevating some of your low hanging trees and shrubs can be of immeasurable help in a successful lawn renovation.

The only way a lawn renovation can be successful is if we have good seed-to-soil contact. On small lawns and spot seeding, we can incorporate the seed into these bare spots by cultivating it in and even topdressing a seed and soil mix. On larger lawns or thin lawns where we want to get a fuller crop growing, we will need to use one of the many seeding machines available. A slit seeder, lawn comber or groomer, or a core aerator or spiker can all be used. Some of these machines will drop the seed into the seed bed automatically and others will need to have the seed applied after the operation is complete. In areas with high thatch accumulation, it may be necessary to remove some of this layer before adding seed. Again, we need excellent seed-to-soil contact or our efforts will be in vain. Open areas where complete seeding is needed can be worked by the use of a seed and soil mix applied or cultivation and seeding as well as hydro-seeding. These areas will need some cover after seeding is completed. Use of salt hay or a cellulose seed top dress are excellent options on areas which are not hydro-seeded. Hydro-seeded areas should come with their own mulch applied as part of the mix.

Your local landscape professional, nursery and garden center, and even the equipment rental companies can be of assistance in advising you how to make your renovations a success, whether a do-it- yourself job or one you will contract out for.

The LandscaperBy Evan Dickerson

NJNLA

Evan Dickerson is a senior director of the New Jersey Nursey and Landscape Association. He can be reached at (908) 753-1490. To learn more about the New Jersey Nursey and Landscape Association, please visit: www.NJNLA.org

Gardener Newsis

Now Accepting Nominationsfor its

2011Person of the Year Award.Do you know someone in the “Green Industry”

whose contributions deserve recognition?

This person must be from the landscape, nursery, garden center or gardening industries who best epitomizes concern for, involvement

in, and dedication to those pursuits. Or a person who performs exemplary outstanding service to

the green industry.

The deadline for receiving nominations for 2011 is November 1, 2011.

Gardener News annually bestows our“Person of the Year” Award in our

January edition.To download the form, please visit

www.GardenerNews.com and click on the “Person of the Year” link on the left side.

Thank you!

Gardener News September, 2011 11L a n d s c a p e r d i r e c to ry

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GradingLight Excavating

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Water & Drainage problems solved•Stone work

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Gardener News12 September, 2011 B u s i n e s s d i r e c to ry Gardener News September, 2011 13

Gardener News12 September, 2011 B u s i n e s s d i r e c to ry Gardener News September, 2011 13

Gardener News14 September, 2011

Gardener News14 September, 2011 Gardener News September, 2011 15We’re almost ready to

start working on our “dream” landscape, but we still have one more step to do before we can finally sit down and work on our plan. We need to perform what is called a “site inventory.” Unlike the site analysis, where we were evaluating and getting a “feel” for the property, a site inventory requires you to measure, locate and draw in any amenities that are not included in your original survey.

These amenities can include natural features like significant trees, a stream, pond, or rock outcrop. They also include manmade structures, such as an existing swimming pool, deck or shed and in many parts of New Jersey, things like a septic field, wellhead or propane tank. If there is something on your property and you are not sure whether you’re going to keep it or not, add it to your inventory for now. Its fate will be determined later on, during the design process.

With that said, if there are plants or hardscape features that you know you are going to remove, don’t waste time measuring their locations

or labeling what they are. A simple TBR (to be removed) note on your survey is all you need. If, however, you feel compelled to brush up on your Latin and identify each plant before throwing them in the chipper, I can’t stop you.

Still working with your scaled property survey from your site analysis, your goal now is to take measurements from your property and as accurately as possible locate them on your survey. The best way to do this is to take measurements from a fixed structure, such as your house or garage and then measure the distance to an existing tree or hardscape feature. It is best to take one measurement at a time and then transfer that measurement to your survey.

Don’t make yourself too crazy trying to be exact;

just do the best that you can. Remember, you are working off of a scaled drawing, so any mistakes that you do make will be minimal. With that said, if you truly do need precise measurements, topographical data or lot coverage percentages, you should contact a land surveyor or engineer to perform this task for you.

For most of my site inventories, I just use a 25-foot tape measure, my eyes and a camera. Equipped with your property survey, a clipboard and a pencil, it’s time to begin. Let’s say that there is an existing oak tree to remain and you want to locate it on your survey. To keep things easy, we’ll assume that it lines up with the corner of your house. You take your tape and measure it and it’s 20 feet away.

Now, using your survey, which we’ll assume is scaled at 1-inch-equals-20-feet, you locate the same corner on the drawing and measure 1 inch and put a dot there to show where the center of the tree is located. Label it oak tree and move on to the next tree or amenity.

Continue walking around the property, repeating this same procedure over and over again until you’ve drawn in everything that is significant on the site. When you’re finished, you should have a drawing with a lot of dots, funny shapes and handwritten notes that can only be deciphered by you or Nicholas Cage. Remember, this drawing is not supposed to be beautiful.It’s for informational purposes only. Save your creative skills for your design and landscape plan.

For objects that are too far from the house to accurately measure, try to use things along the property line like an existing fence or corner stake. If there is nothing nearby to give you context, just eyeball it and approximate its location on your survey. Make sure to take plenty of pictures along the way.

The more you understand the site, the better your design will be. Trust me!

Now you’re ready to begin working on your dream plan.

Editors Note: Jody Shilan is the owner of Jody Shilan Designs in Wyckoff, where he provides landscape design and consulting services for homeowners and landscape contractors. He earned his bachelors degree in Landscape Architecture from Cook College, Rutgers University and his masters degree in Landscape Architecture from the University of Massachusetts, Amherst. Currently, he is President of the New Jersey Landscape Contractors Association (NJLCA). He can be reached at 201-783-2844 or jshilan@gmail.com.

Measure Twice, Cut Once

Creating Outdoor SpacesBy Jody Shilan, MLALandscape Designer

Gardener News16 September, 2011

I continue to be intrigued by the debate over Native Plants. They are obviously very important for providing food and habitat for various animals and insects, and many provide attractive additions to the garden. In spite of this, many natives are still deemed as weeds. Sumac is a plant that I have long considered to be a beautiful and tough plant when properly sited in the landscape. However, it is amazing how this plant has been maligned as not only weedy, but poisonous! Both are not true, but there are reasons why Sumac has received this reputation that we hope to dispel!

Found in the Anacardiaceae or cashew family, the common name of Sumac is from the ancient Aramaic word of Summaq, meaning dark red. It is in reference to the dark red spice that is made from the

fruits of the Sumac Rhus coriaria, which is popular in Greek and Middle Eastern cuisine. It imparts a lemon-like taste and is used as a rub for meats or as a light garnish on salads. The genus name of Rhus is derived from the Greek word Rhous, which means stream or flow. I am not certain why the plant was described as one that flows; perhaps a reference to the many species that travel by underground stems and form large colonies. It is this attribute of spreading that give people the illusion that Sumacs are weedy. One of the reasons I typically prefer botanical names is due to the confusion that often arises with common names. Poison Sumac, Toxicodendron radicans, was once lumped in the genus Rhus, but was shifted to this genus, along with Poison Ivy and Poison Oak. Plants in this genus contain oils of urushiol, a chemical that creates severe dermatological rashes. In fact, Poison Sumac often results in rashes far more

severe than Poison Ivy or Oak, resulting in the 200+ species of Rhus receiving the unfounded reputation for being poisonous!

Of the many native species available, the Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina) and the Aromatic Sumac (Rhus aromatica) are two of my favorite natives for the garden! The Staghorn Sumac gets its name from the velvet-like pubescence that appears on the current year’s growth. Like many other sumacs, the plants colonize and reach 15-20 feet in a garden setting. The leaves are compound, meaning that they have a central rachis or ‘stem’ with upwards of 27 leaflets arranged along this stem. The entire leaf, which includes the rachis and leaflets, are typically 1-2’ in length and give the plant a lacy, tropical appearance. The cultivar ‘Laciniata’ has deeply cut leaflets, further enhancing that lacy appearance. Fall color is a beautiful bevy of yellows, oranges and scarlet while the

winter outline is coarse and open. In June to early July, the flowers appear in 4-8” long panicles. The plants are dioecious, meaning that some plants only bare female flowers, while others only male. Those with female flowers give rise to fruits that are individually just over 1/8” in diameter and very hairy. The fruits are gathered into dense, ornamental cones of a size equal to the flower and ripen to a bright red in August, remaining ornamental throughout most of the winter. The plants thrive in hot, dry and sunny locations and are perfectly happy to zone 4.

Rhus aromatica or Fragrant Sumac thrives in similar hot, dry locations, but is an entirely different plant. The leaves consist of three glossy leaflets and it lacks that tropical appearance. It too is suckering, but it grows in a mounded habit to 8’ tall. Small yellow flowers grace the stems in early May while the fall color is an attractive red to

reddish purple and the winter habit is more delicate. The form called ‘Gro-low’ only reaches 2’tall by 6’ wide and has spectacular red fall color, making it an ideal plant for decorating dry slopes. Thus, the much maligned Sumac can be a very attractive plant for the garden, providing great texture and color. A poisonous weed it certainly is not!

Editor’s Note: Bruce, foremost a lover of plants since birth, is director of the Rutgers Gardens, an adjunct professor in Landscape Architecture at the Rutgers School of Environmental and Biological Sciences, an instructor for Rutgers - NJAES Office of Continuing and Professional Education and chairperson of the Garden State Gardens group. He is a member of the Garden Writer’s Association and the New York Hortus Club. He can be reached at (732) 932-8451. For more information, please visitwww.rutgersgardens.rutgers.edu

The Sensational Sumac

What a great summer we had, and are still having! It was hot, sunny and overall the weather was great. The ocean was clean, beautiful and teeming with people all summer long. Now all the kids are going back to school and we will bid another summer a fond farewell. Lest we forget, September is probably my favorite month down the shore. Every weekend there is a festival or street fair of some kind, the weather is usually still awesome with a bit less humidity and the ocean is free and the temperature is generally still warm. Crowds have thinned a bit but people are still around. I tell you, it’s the best time to come down. The boardwalks are still open and last but not least, football has arrived. Grilling is still the top cooking method and Jersey produce, as well as seafood, is still in full swing. So get out on that grill and enjoy the weather while it lasts.

The recipe I’m writing about this month is pretty much a Crab’s Claw classic. A former employee and great friend of mine put this on the menu years ago and it has enjoyed great success over the years. A few years back, I added a little sauce to it to kick it up a notch. The recipe is cedar planked salmon with a maple-bourbon glaze. This can be made using any type of salmon availableor, alternately, with trout. We use farm-raised Atlantic salmon at the restaurant, which works out nicely. The cedar plank is first soaked in water in order to stop it from burning too quickly. The cedar imparts a nice smoky

flavor into the salmon as well as making for a great presentation. For a large group I recommend buying a whole side of salmon and a larger cedar plank. It looks great and the smell of the cedar is sure to impress your guests. This recipe is also super easy and the finishing glaze is a nice touch at the end.

Next month I will be focusing on soups. The fall is a great time for soups due to the cooler weather and the large amounts of produce, such as squash, available. If anyone has any requests for certain recipes, please contact the Gardener News at Mail@GardenerNews.com Thanks and enjoy!

Cedar planked salmon with maple-bourbon

glaze (serves 2)Maple-bourbon glaze

1/2 cup bourbon, such as Jim Beam

1/4 cup pure maple syrup

-in a small pot, reduce bourbon by half

-add maple syrup and simmer for about 3 minutes

-remove from heat and set aside to cool

Salmon1 lb. salmon filet1 UNTREATED

cedar shake, available at Lowes, Home Depot or Williams-Sonoma

-sea salt and fresh ground black pepper

-soak cedar shake in water for at least 1 hour

-heat grill to medium

temperature-place salmon on

cedar shake and season with salt and pepper

-place on grill and close lid

-cook until fish is firm and don’t worry if the edges of the wood begin to burn a bit. This will help give the fish a better, more smoky flavor

-just before removing from grill, brush fish liberallywith the maple-bourbon glaze and let sit an additional minute on the grill with the lid closed

-serve with additional glaze on the side.

From the DeepBy Craig KorbExecutive Chef

Editor’s Note: Craig Korb is executive chef at The Crab’s Claw Inn, Lavallette, New Jersey. He has an Associates degree in Culinary Arts and a Bachelors degree in Food Service Management from Johnson and Wales University. For more information visitwww.TheCrabsClaw.com or phone (732) 793-4447.

Greetings from the Jersey shore!

Gardener News16 September, 2011

I continue to be intrigued by the debate over Native Plants. They are obviously very important for providing food and habitat for various animals and insects, and many provide attractive additions to the garden. In spite of this, many natives are still deemed as weeds. Sumac is a plant that I have long considered to be a beautiful and tough plant when properly sited in the landscape. However, it is amazing how this plant has been maligned as not only weedy, but poisonous! Both are not true, but there are reasons why Sumac has received this reputation that we hope to dispel!

Found in the Anacardiaceae or cashew family, the common name of Sumac is from the ancient Aramaic word of Summaq, meaning dark red. It is in reference to the dark red spice that is made from the

fruits of the Sumac Rhus coriaria, which is popular in Greek and Middle Eastern cuisine. It imparts a lemon-like taste and is used as a rub for meats or as a light garnish on salads. The genus name of Rhus is derived from the Greek word Rhous, which means stream or flow. I am not certain why the plant was described as one that flows; perhaps a reference to the many species that travel by underground stems and form large colonies. It is this attribute of spreading that give people the illusion that Sumacs are weedy. One of the reasons I typically prefer botanical names is due to the confusion that often arises with common names. Poison Sumac, Toxicodendron radicans, was once lumped in the genus Rhus, but was shifted to this genus, along with Poison Ivy and Poison Oak. Plants in this genus contain oils of urushiol, a chemical that creates severe dermatological rashes. In fact, Poison Sumac often results in rashes far more

severe than Poison Ivy or Oak, resulting in the 200+ species of Rhus receiving the unfounded reputation for being poisonous!

Of the many native species available, the Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina) and the Aromatic Sumac (Rhus aromatica) are two of my favorite natives for the garden! The Staghorn Sumac gets its name from the velvet-like pubescence that appears on the current year’s growth. Like many other sumacs, the plants colonize and reach 15-20 feet in a garden setting. The leaves are compound, meaning that they have a central rachis or ‘stem’ with upwards of 27 leaflets arranged along this stem. The entire leaf, which includes the rachis and leaflets, are typically 1-2’ in length and give the plant a lacy, tropical appearance. The cultivar ‘Laciniata’ has deeply cut leaflets, further enhancing that lacy appearance. Fall color is a beautiful bevy of yellows, oranges and scarlet while the

winter outline is coarse and open. In June to early July, the flowers appear in 4-8” long panicles. The plants are dioecious, meaning that some plants only bare female flowers, while others only male. Those with female flowers give rise to fruits that are individually just over 1/8” in diameter and very hairy. The fruits are gathered into dense, ornamental cones of a size equal to the flower and ripen to a bright red in August, remaining ornamental throughout most of the winter. The plants thrive in hot, dry and sunny locations and are perfectly happy to zone 4.

Rhus aromatica or Fragrant Sumac thrives in similar hot, dry locations, but is an entirely different plant. The leaves consist of three glossy leaflets and it lacks that tropical appearance. It too is suckering, but it grows in a mounded habit to 8’ tall. Small yellow flowers grace the stems in early May while the fall color is an attractive red to

reddish purple and the winter habit is more delicate. The form called ‘Gro-low’ only reaches 2’tall by 6’ wide and has spectacular red fall color, making it an ideal plant for decorating dry slopes. Thus, the much maligned Sumac can be a very attractive plant for the garden, providing great texture and color. A poisonous weed it certainly is not!

Editor’s Note: Bruce, foremost a lover of plants since birth, is director of the Rutgers Gardens, an adjunct professor in Landscape Architecture at the Rutgers School of Environmental and Biological Sciences, an instructor for Rutgers - NJAES Office of Continuing and Professional Education and chairperson of the Garden State Gardens group. He is a member of the Garden Writer’s Association and the New York Hortus Club. He can be reached at (732) 932-8451. For more information, please visitwww.rutgersgardens.rutgers.edu

The Sensational Sumac

What a great summer we had, and are still having! It was hot, sunny and overall the weather was great. The ocean was clean, beautiful and teeming with people all summer long. Now all the kids are going back to school and we will bid another summer a fond farewell. Lest we forget, September is probably my favorite month down the shore. Every weekend there is a festival or street fair of some kind, the weather is usually still awesome with a bit less humidity and the ocean is free and the temperature is generally still warm. Crowds have thinned a bit but people are still around. I tell you, it’s the best time to come down. The boardwalks are still open and last but not least, football has arrived. Grilling is still the top cooking method and Jersey produce, as well as seafood, is still in full swing. So get out on that grill and enjoy the weather while it lasts.

The recipe I’m writing about this month is pretty much a Crab’s Claw classic. A former employee and great friend of mine put this on the menu years ago and it has enjoyed great success over the years. A few years back, I added a little sauce to it to kick it up a notch. The recipe is cedar planked salmon with a maple-bourbon glaze. This can be made using any type of salmon availableor, alternately, with trout. We use farm-raised Atlantic salmon at the restaurant, which works out nicely. The cedar plank is first soaked in water in order to stop it from burning too quickly. The cedar imparts a nice smoky

flavor into the salmon as well as making for a great presentation. For a large group I recommend buying a whole side of salmon and a larger cedar plank. It looks great and the smell of the cedar is sure to impress your guests. This recipe is also super easy and the finishing glaze is a nice touch at the end.

Next month I will be focusing on soups. The fall is a great time for soups due to the cooler weather and the large amounts of produce, such as squash, available. If anyone has any requests for certain recipes, please contact the Gardener News at Mail@GardenerNews.com Thanks and enjoy!

Cedar planked salmon with maple-bourbon

glaze (serves 2)Maple-bourbon glaze

1/2 cup bourbon, such as Jim Beam

1/4 cup pure maple syrup

-in a small pot, reduce bourbon by half

-add maple syrup and simmer for about 3 minutes

-remove from heat and set aside to cool

Salmon1 lb. salmon filet1 UNTREATED

cedar shake, available at Lowes, Home Depot or Williams-Sonoma

-sea salt and fresh ground black pepper

-soak cedar shake in water for at least 1 hour

-heat grill to medium

temperature-place salmon on

cedar shake and season with salt and pepper

-place on grill and close lid

-cook until fish is firm and don’t worry if the edges of the wood begin to burn a bit. This will help give the fish a better, more smoky flavor

-just before removing from grill, brush fish liberallywith the maple-bourbon glaze and let sit an additional minute on the grill with the lid closed

-serve with additional glaze on the side.

From the DeepBy Craig KorbExecutive Chef

Editor’s Note: Craig Korb is executive chef at The Crab’s Claw Inn, Lavallette, New Jersey. He has an Associates degree in Culinary Arts and a Bachelors degree in Food Service Management from Johnson and Wales University. For more information visitwww.TheCrabsClaw.com or phone (732) 793-4447.

Greetings from the Jersey shore!

Gardener News September, 2011 17

A living sunflower labyrinthNestled in the picturesque farmlands of Sussex County, New Jersey’s

greenest county, is a 30-acre black oil sunflower maze presented by Liberty Farm on County Route 565 in Augusta. This 30-acre maze was planted with over 660,000 seeds, and is believed to be the largest of its kind in the northeast. Pictured at the maze’s grand opening are: New Jersey Assemblyman Gary R. Chiusano, left, Raj Sinha, center, owner of Liberty Farm, and New Jersey Assistant Secretary of Agriculture Al Murray as they tour the SAVE (Support Agricultural Viability and the Environment)-shaped fragrant maze. Closed-toe shoes, hats, sunscreen, binoculars and, of course, a camera are recommended. Liberty Farm is open Tuesdays to Sundays from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. from now until Mother Nature finishes the show for the season.

Tom Castronovo/Photo

June 1, 2011 trees can be replanted after October 1, 2011. As an additional precaution, do not use Imprelis treated soil to backfill around newly planted trees.

For DuPont Imprelis herbicide treatments applied at labeled rates between June 1, 2011 and June 30, 2011 trees can be replanted after November 1, 2011. As an additional precaution, do not use Imprelis treated soil to backfill around newly planted trees.

Disposal of Trees:Trees that are cut down

may be used for lumber or for use as firewood.

According to the DuPont Imprelis label directions, the use of grass clippings from treated areas in mulch or compost is prohibited.

As a precaution, if your customer’s property was treated with Imprelis, and a tree has been cut down, do not chip the tree for use in mulch or compost.

If allowed by local yard waste regulation, trees may be disposed of in the trash.

If allowed by local regulations burning is an alternative method of disposal.

How did Imprelis get approval in New Jersey and why on earth would I want a product like this applied on my property?

After learning all about Imprelis, these and other very important questions came to mind. So I thought I would reach out to DuPont.

Why did it take so long to pull Imprelis off the market? If you can’t use the same soil that comes out of the

hole to backfill a new tree, how much Imprelis-treated soil needs to be excavated out of the ground? How do you dispose of the Imprelis-treated soil? Can the firewood be used indoors? Can the firewood be used for cooking or roasting marshmallows? When the trees are cut down and chipped, what do you do with the chips if you can’t use them as mulch; place them in a compost pile, or burn them as DuPont suggests? Basically, how can you dispose of them? Is the wood from the tree toxic? My garbage man has never taken brush or a pile of wood that has been left at the bottom of the driveway. Now…why would they?!

A lot of the same questions come to mind about grass clippings. If your lawn application company

failed to inform you about the compost warning and you’ve been composting your clippings all season long, is the compost pile toxic? If I’ve been putting my grass clipping around my vegetable garden all summer, is the produce safe to eat? If my landscape professional has been taking the grass clippings from my property and depositing them in a municipal or county compost facility, is that facility now contaminated? If I wanted to plant a grouping of Norway spruce on my property this fall, and had no idea Imprelis was applied to my lawn, since I’ve never had spruce trees on my property before, will the new trees be affected?

Here is the response I received back from Anthony Farina at DuPont: “While

I appreciate your questions, we are not taking specific questions.”

I wonder how the insurance companies are going to handle this. To me, there are a lot of unanswered questions.

This is going to be a long, bumpy ride folks. Organic lawn care is looking a whole lot better, for lots of reasons…

Editor’s Note: Tom Castronovo is executive editor and publisher of Gardener News, as well as host of The Gardener News Show. He is a horticultural and community educator dedicated to providing inspiration to gardeners everywhere while illuminating the most up-to-the minute horticultural approaches.

Do you have dead or dying evergreens?(Continued from Page 8)

Gardener News18 September, 2011

The “dog days” of summer have enveloped us for a lengthier stay than usual, but all in all, our gardens are thriving and farmers markets and farm stands are just laden with local “Jersey Fresh” and “Jersey Grown” products. Now is the time for non-stop harvesting of the fruits of our labors and to showcase them as well. Take a break from your gardens, whether home or in your community garden, and come visit your local 4H fairs, state fairs, and flower shows.

The Garden Club of New Jersey’s District IV Standard Flower Show, “In the Spirit of the Garden,” is not to be missed as 16 garden clubs from Hunterdon, Morris, Warren and Somerset counties have gone all out in presenting a fabulous show that will linger in your memory and inspire you to “get out there and garden.” The show is being held on September 16 from 1-4 p.m., and September 17h from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.. at two neighboring locations in Chester Township ( GPS address is 14 & 11 Longview Rd., Far Hills 07931), Willowwood Arboretum and Bamboo Brook Education Center, both jewels in the crown of Morris County Parks’ extensive public parks system.

The Design Section of the flower show will be displayed in the exquisite 1780s stone barn at Willowwood, surrounded by charming gardens, one more lovely than the next. You will be transported back to a more leisurely time, feeling the spirits of Robert and Henry Tubbs, brothers who were avid plant collectors, purchasing the 130-acre estate in 1908 to showcase over 3,500 distinctive varieties of trees, shrubs and plants. The brothers spent decades devoted to their passion, finally leaving it to future generations to appreciate and enjoy. The Design classes will be innovatively staged and will include a club competition vignette entitled “Beside the Garden Gate”,

“A Restful Spot” with four clubs vying for the Club Competition Award. There will be hanging designs, table designs including “Tea Time in the Roserie,” a class for novice designers who have never won a blue ribbon in a flower show. A section on miniatures entitled “How We Danced the Night Away”, underwater designs and pedestal designs with another section featuring dried plant material only eligible for Award of Distinction. Be sure to put on your “judge’s hats” and see how your selections compare with the National Garden Club judges’ picks. Susan O’Donnell, District IV Director, has a challenge for all our visitors: “Did you find Pan peeking through the shrubs out the back veranda?” She gave you a clue right there. Have fun finding Pan.

Moving next door to BambooBrook EducationCenter, we are in awe at the loving restoration by Morris County Parks of the gardens and water features throughout the property of the former owner Martha Brookes Hutcheson, one of the first trained women landscape architects in America and a founding member of the Somerset Hills Garden Club in 1914. Here you will find the Horticulture lovingly displayed in the Music Room, Arboreta in front on lattice, and Combination Plantings on the rear veranda.

The District IV “Secret Garden Tours” held in mid-June raised the monies not only to stage this show, but more importantly, raised monies needed to erect a Blue Star Memorial Marker to be dedicated at the Lyon’s Veteran’s Hospital November 3, 2011 at 11 a.m. District IV invites you to join them for this memorable event to help honor our veterans of yesterday, today and tomorrow. This information will be displayed as you come into the Bamboo Brook Music Room. Be sure to check out Section F – “Pick A Peck Of Peppers” --as it is the special District IV Challenge Award and includes members of clubs throughout the district vying for this honor. All the

seeds were purchased from the flower show committee, so it’s going to be great fun to see the results. Section G – “Treasure And Pride” -- is another class that’s not to be missed, as it’s a Club Competition of Displays with four District Clubs vying for the Club Competition Award and each display containing seven related specimens, each in a separate container, creatively displayed. Morris County Parks are front and center in the Invitational Exhibit with their “Tales from the Garden” staged in front of the bow window and on the piano.

Visiting the Summer Playhouse with a stream flowing under the house is a treat in itself, but add to it the chance to view the Youth Section of the Special Exhibits entitled “The Country Place Era” and you know life doesn’t get better than this. The Youth Horticulture Class 40 “In the Pumpkin Patch,” are pumpkins grown by seed provided by the committee. Displayed, too, are the Education Exhibits, “Terraria—19th Century Vogue,” and “Jersey Fresh-Jersey Grown,” the new GCNJ project to assist the development of new community gardens. Youth Artistic Crafts include an Assemblage and homage to birthdays, something that nobody outgrows.

Can’t get away from the shore? You are in luck there, too, because you can view “A Garden Walk,” a Small Standard Flower Show presented by the Navesink Garden Club. It’s being held on September 20, 2011 in the Atrium, 40 Riverside Avenue, Route 35, Red Bank, N.J. from 1–3p.m. Both Flower Shows are free to the public.

Editor’s Note: Jeannie Geremia is an elected Officer, Horticultural Chair and NGC Accredited Judge for The Garden Club of New Jersey, Inc. She can be reached at 908-782-6091 or by emailing jeannieg42@earthlink.net. The Garden Club of New Jersey’s website is www.gardenclubofnewjersey.com.

Pick a Peck of PeppersBy Jeannie GeremiaGarden Club of New Jersey

Gardener News18 September, 2011

The “dog days” of summer have enveloped us for a lengthier stay than usual, but all in all, our gardens are thriving and farmers markets and farm stands are just laden with local “Jersey Fresh” and “Jersey Grown” products. Now is the time for non-stop harvesting of the fruits of our labors and to showcase them as well. Take a break from your gardens, whether home or in your community garden, and come visit your local 4H fairs, state fairs, and flower shows.

The Garden Club of New Jersey’s District IV Standard Flower Show, “In the Spirit of the Garden,” is not to be missed as 16 garden clubs from Hunterdon, Morris, Warren and Somerset counties have gone all out in presenting a fabulous show that will linger in your memory and inspire you to “get out there and garden.” The show is being held on September 16 from 1-4 p.m., and September 17h from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.. at two neighboring locations in Chester Township ( GPS address is 14 & 11 Longview Rd., Far Hills 07931), Willowwood Arboretum and Bamboo Brook Education Center, both jewels in the crown of Morris County Parks’ extensive public parks system.

The Design Section of the flower show will be displayed in the exquisite 1780s stone barn at Willowwood, surrounded by charming gardens, one more lovely than the next. You will be transported back to a more leisurely time, feeling the spirits of Robert and Henry Tubbs, brothers who were avid plant collectors, purchasing the 130-acre estate in 1908 to showcase over 3,500 distinctive varieties of trees, shrubs and plants. The brothers spent decades devoted to their passion, finally leaving it to future generations to appreciate and enjoy. The Design classes will be innovatively staged and will include a club competition vignette entitled “Beside the Garden Gate”,

“A Restful Spot” with four clubs vying for the Club Competition Award. There will be hanging designs, table designs including “Tea Time in the Roserie,” a class for novice designers who have never won a blue ribbon in a flower show. A section on miniatures entitled “How We Danced the Night Away”, underwater designs and pedestal designs with another section featuring dried plant material only eligible for Award of Distinction. Be sure to put on your “judge’s hats” and see how your selections compare with the National Garden Club judges’ picks. Susan O’Donnell, District IV Director, has a challenge for all our visitors: “Did you find Pan peeking through the shrubs out the back veranda?” She gave you a clue right there. Have fun finding Pan.

Moving next door to BambooBrook EducationCenter, we are in awe at the loving restoration by Morris County Parks of the gardens and water features throughout the property of the former owner Martha Brookes Hutcheson, one of the first trained women landscape architects in America and a founding member of the Somerset Hills Garden Club in 1914. Here you will find the Horticulture lovingly displayed in the Music Room, Arboreta in front on lattice, and Combination Plantings on the rear veranda.

The District IV “Secret Garden Tours” held in mid-June raised the monies not only to stage this show, but more importantly, raised monies needed to erect a Blue Star Memorial Marker to be dedicated at the Lyon’s Veteran’s Hospital November 3, 2011 at 11 a.m. District IV invites you to join them for this memorable event to help honor our veterans of yesterday, today and tomorrow. This information will be displayed as you come into the Bamboo Brook Music Room. Be sure to check out Section F – “Pick A Peck Of Peppers” --as it is the special District IV Challenge Award and includes members of clubs throughout the district vying for this honor. All the

seeds were purchased from the flower show committee, so it’s going to be great fun to see the results. Section G – “Treasure And Pride” -- is another class that’s not to be missed, as it’s a Club Competition of Displays with four District Clubs vying for the Club Competition Award and each display containing seven related specimens, each in a separate container, creatively displayed. Morris County Parks are front and center in the Invitational Exhibit with their “Tales from the Garden” staged in front of the bow window and on the piano.

Visiting the Summer Playhouse with a stream flowing under the house is a treat in itself, but add to it the chance to view the Youth Section of the Special Exhibits entitled “The Country Place Era” and you know life doesn’t get better than this. The Youth Horticulture Class 40 “In the Pumpkin Patch,” are pumpkins grown by seed provided by the committee. Displayed, too, are the Education Exhibits, “Terraria—19th Century Vogue,” and “Jersey Fresh-Jersey Grown,” the new GCNJ project to assist the development of new community gardens. Youth Artistic Crafts include an Assemblage and homage to birthdays, something that nobody outgrows.

Can’t get away from the shore? You are in luck there, too, because you can view “A Garden Walk,” a Small Standard Flower Show presented by the Navesink Garden Club. It’s being held on September 20, 2011 in the Atrium, 40 Riverside Avenue, Route 35, Red Bank, N.J. from 1–3p.m. Both Flower Shows are free to the public.

Editor’s Note: Jeannie Geremia is an elected Officer, Horticultural Chair and NGC Accredited Judge for The Garden Club of New Jersey, Inc. She can be reached at 908-782-6091 or by emailing jeannieg42@earthlink.net. The Garden Club of New Jersey’s website is www.gardenclubofnewjersey.com.

Pick a Peck of PeppersBy Jeannie GeremiaGarden Club of New Jersey

Gardener News September, 2011 19We all work hard to

make our home and yard a little slice of heaven, a place to have fun and relax with family, pets and friends. We like a manicured lawn, vegetable garden, a pool and a place to have a picnic to enjoy the great outdoors. Sometimes this love for our lawn and garden involves eliminating pests, and I’m not talking about the kids!

Frequently I am asked about the use of lawn and garden products and their exposure to children and pets. Pets and children can be more vulnerable to pesticides since they are close to the ground and tend to roll around in the grass more than adults. Everyone is concerned with their safety and the environment and there are some guidelines that should be followed when applying and storing lawn and garden products. Read and follow all directions on the bags!

Lawn and garden products are bought, applied and stored the most during the spring, summer and fall seasons. These are the warmer, growing months

when weeds, insects and fungus are most active in the lawn. We rely on pesticide products for our pets like flea collars and heartworm medicines for their safety every day without thinking twice. A pesticide is defined as any substance used to destroy insects or other organisms that are harmful to cultivated plants or animals; this includes weeds, insects and fungus. It is our responsibilityto read the label completely to assure the proper dosage, rate of application and storage of any leftover product. By law, all pet and lawn and garden pesticide products must be registered by the federal Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) before they can be sold in the United

States. Pesticide products go through an extensive review, sometimes for up to 10 years and millions of dollars to conduct studies and collect data evaluating short-term and long-term impacts on humans, pets and the environment. A pesticide is approved once it is deemed not to pose any unnecessary risks to people, pets or local eco-systems when used according to label directions.

Some children and pets will be more sensitive to lawn and garden products, including fertilizers, than others. While we all need to be conscious of the risks, most of us have some sort of products for use around the home to control interior pests. Everything in life involves some risks and

rewards that we need to evaluate and decide which path to follow.

To minimize the risk of harm, remove children and any pet toys, food and water from the area you plan to apply any pesticide. The label on each product will have some specific instructions for re-entry times for children and pets. The general rule of thumb is to wait until the dust has settled. I like the idea of watering-in any pesticide or fertilizer after application, let the grass dry and then re-enter. If you want to be extra careful, keep pets off of the treated area for 24 hours and wipe down their paws each time they return back into the home. Be aware if your pet eats grass or digs up any outdoor

bait products. Granular products may take more than 24 hours to completely dissolve and disappear from the lawn. Some products cannot be watered-in or poor performance will result, particularlyweed and feed granules or sprays. Be sure to secure all pesticides properly out of the reach of children and pets! I have heard of a few incidents where homeowners say their dog ate some organic fertilizers, which is because many organic fertilizers are made from dog food ingredients. Remember, children are curious to explore a garage, shed or basement and pets are attracted to smells.

Please use common sense when using lawn and garden products for their sakes. For more information about how to keep pets safe and healthy, go to www.pestfacts.org.

Editor’s Note: Todd Pretz is Vice President of Jonathan Green, a leading supplier of lawn and garden products in the northeast. For more information, please visit: www.jonathangreen.com

Children, pets and lawn & garden products

Turf ‘s UpBy Todd Pretz

Professional Turf Consultant

If you live in New Jersey, you have probably seen, or at least heard about, Bagworms. Over the past few years this accidently introduced pest has been causing problems to many trees and shrubs. The bagworm, Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis (for those that appreciate scientific names), is an unusual but serious pest of many ornamental trees and shrubs throughout the eastern half of the United States. The bagworm gets its name from the bag-like structure created from leaf fragments that are bound together with silk produced by the larva. Most of this insect’s life is spent within the bag, which serves as both a protective structure and an area for the larvae to grow into adult moths. The bags blend in with the host tree’s foliage leaving infestations to often go unnoticed until significant defoliation has occurred. Many people mistake these protective bags for cones or other “normal” parts of a tree.

Bagworms feed on more than 125 species of trees, shrubs and other plants. However, conifers, especially arborvitae, eastern red cedar, ornamental cedars, cypress and white pine are among the preferred hosts in of New Jersey. In many parts

of the state, deciduous trees are attacked as well, particularly maple, sycamore and locust. Favored species are identified readily in the dormant season by the presence of bags on the plant.

The presence of spindle-shaped bag structures is the most visible evidence of a bagworm infestation. The bags are approximately 1/8 inch long when first noticeable and will reach approximately two inches long and 1/2 inch in diameter when fully developed. The larvae are about one inch long when fully grown (the larvae form of the bagworm is a caterpillar; the adult form is a moth). The body of the larvae is dark brown with a yellow head region and is hairless. The adult female moth is worm-like and lacks wings, legs, antennae, and eyes; she spends most of her life inside the bag. The body is yellowish white and

nearly hairless. The male moth resembles a wasp with a black body and dense hairs. The wings are clear and about one inch across.

The bagworm overwinters as yellowish eggs within the bag. Some bags contain only male larvae, and therefore eggs will not be found in every bag on the tree. The eggs hatch from late-May through mid-June; the larvae emerge and begin feeding and constructing new bags. As larvae continue to feed and grow, they enlarge the bag to accommodate their increased body size.

In late-July through early August, fully-grown larvae secure their bags to a twig with silk and pupate – grow into adult moths - within the bag. Only the male moths can fly. The male moths then emerge from the bags after about one month and fly

to a bag containing a female, and mating occurs. Yellowish eggs are deposited within the bag by the female, and then she wriggles out and dies. The female never leaves the bag – hence the lack of wings and other structures needed for flight and prolonged movement, as these are unnecessary.

Removing and destroying the bags can control light bagworm infestations on shrubs and small trees. This should be done in the dormant season before eggs hatch. On large trees or plants with heavy infestations, properly timed contact applications with an approved product provide the best results. The applications are most effective when applied to the bags and foliage when bags are small. Large larvae are more resistant to insecticides then the smaller, younger larvae. Systemic pesticides generally

provide better control than a contact spray, especially on large larvae, so an application of a soil injected, systemic pesticide is your best option. If you are reading this in the later summer or fall, a soil injection should be applied now or the very early spring. Consult your Certified Arborist or NJ Certified Tree Expert and any state guidelines for specific insecticides, rates and timing for controlling this pest.

As always, I hope you learned something!

…..’Till next month

Bagworms

Editor’s Note: Robert graduated from SUNY College of Environmental Science and Forestry and Syracuse University with degrees in science education and forest biology. He is an ISA Certified Arborist and a New Jersey Certified Tree Expert. Robert is currently teaching AP Environmental Science, Biology and Chemistry at Liberty High School in PA., and on staff at Temple University teaching Horticulture. He delivers many short courses and seminars at various outdoor education facilities. He is available for talks and consultations in both NJ and PA. Robert can be reached by calling (484) 560-5744.

Gardener News20 September, 2011

Advancing the turfgrass industryHundreds of landscape and turf professionals begin to tour the Rutgers

Adelphia Plant Science Research and Extension Farm in Freehold during the Rutgers Lawn, Landscape & Sports Field Day and the Sports Field Managers Trade Show & Equipment Demos event on July 27. Attendees tried out the latest turf equipment, learned about major advances in turfgrass breeding and the latest strategies for improved pest and weed control on turf. The Monmouth County farm supports research and extension programs advancing fine and athletic field turf directly applicable to turf and agronomic crops and to plant and soil interaction.

Tom Castronovo/Photo

Supporting agricultureNew Jersey Senator Bob Smith, who is chairman of the state Senate

Environment and Energy Committee, and who appreciates the state’s great agricultural background, proudly displays some of the New Jersey Department of Agriculture’s Jersey Fresh marketing posters in the conference room of his legislative district office in Piscataway. Jersey Fresh is an advertising and promotional program originally developed in 1983 to help farmers inform consumers about the availability and variety of fresh, healthy and delicious fruits and vegetables grown in New Jersey.

Tom Castronovo/Photo

In the world of agriculture, most of the end uses for farm products are pretty self-explanatory. Peaches are grown so that they can be eaten. The same can be said for most fruits and vegetables.

Sure, many farm products are not only harvested so that they can be eaten fresh, but they are also grown so that they can be processed into other products. There are many, many examples of this. Take tomatoes being grown for ketchup or spaghetti sauce; apples being pressed into cider; or milk being processed into any number of different dairy foods or beverage items. But these are all fairly straightforward auxiliary uses for these farm products and it is easy to see how agriculture was able to recognize the demand for these items, and then adapt to producing them.

Sometimes, however, the path which farm items take is not so clear and the reason for certain farm products being grown can be somewhat surprising. Take the entire fall harvest season for example. The typical autumn harvest scene from 100 years ago here in New

Jersey probably consisted of bundles of corn stalks that were cut and bound, bales of hay and straw which were used for feed and bedding, apples which ripen and need to be harvested during this season, and pumpkins which were used for both human and animal consumption. Flash forward 100 years, and when people decorate their homes and businesses for the fall season, they use many of these same products. They may look the same, but in actuality, quite a bit has changed over the years.

Take field corn, for example. Today most of the field corn that is grown is either chopped (stalk and all) and put in a silo so that it can be fed to livestock throughout the winter, or picked with a combine, which shells the

kernels off of the cob, and then is processed into a host of different products. There is actually no need any more to cut and bind cornstalks together, unless of course someone wants to purchase them to create their own nostalgic fall harvest scene. On our farm, we grow five acres of field corn specifically for this purpose. It is planted much later than normal so that it holds up well during the fall season. Then it is cut and bound, using antique equipment (because no one manufactures it any more), and is tied to the roofs of minivans and SUVs so that it can be taken home and affixed to mailboxes, fences and front porches throughout New Jersey. The pilgrims probably never envisioned this when they planted their first corn.

The pumpkins of today and the pumpkins of yesteryear are also quite different. Traditionally, they were grown because they were a relatively heavy yielding reliable crop that was suitable for both human and animal consumption. Because of their hard shell, they keep rather well into the winter, which is another advantage. Pumpkins were grown amongst the corn and when the corn was bound together in bundles and stacked in the field, the pumpkins were placed underneath the corn bundles so that they would be protected from freezing when the weather got colder. They would then be fed to livestock as needed. Today, there are hundreds of varieties from which to choose. And

while most all of the modern strains are edible, they are selected much more for their appearance than anything else.

One of the most amusing stories of an alternative use occurred on our farm a couple of years ago. A man came into our farm market on Mother’s Day and stated that he was looking for a plant for his wife. When I asked him what type of plant he had in mind, he quickly replied “Preferably something that’s poisonous.” He was kidding of course (I think), but it just goes to show that there are new uses for farm products being developed every day.

The Town FarmerBy Peter Melick

Agricultural Producer

Editor’s Note: Peter is co-owner of Melick’s Town Farm in Oldwick. He currently serves as mayor of Tewksbury Township, is a 10th-generation New Jersey farmer, a director of the New Jersey Farm Bureau, and is a past president of the New Jersey State Board of Agriculture. He also has been featured on NJN, News 12 New Jersey and on the Fox Business Network. Peter can be reached at (908) 310-1703.

Alternative Farm Products

Gardener News September, 2011 21

The garden mum (chrysanthemum) is one of the most exciting flowers that can be grown in the home landscape for late-summer and fall color. Garden mums require a minimum amount of care and do well even under some tough conditions. There are cultivars (varieties) with color that range from white to yellow, pink, purple, bronze, red, cream, to dark maroon and burgundy, and all the shades in between. With hundreds of cultivars available, the choice of plants to grow is unlimited. To have a more interesting collection of mums, plant cultivars of various types such as singles, anemones, decoratives, pompons, spoons, spiders, and standards.

Chrysanthemums, or “mums,” are popular perennials. The term “garden mum” applies to chrysanthemum cultivars that will flower naturally. Garden mums are also called hardy mums, but the term “hardy” is becoming abandoned by most suppliers since hardiness of garden mum cultivars may vary significantly from one season or area, depending on weather and previous cultural conditions. Garden chrysanthemums are planted

in the spring from established cuttings, usually by growers like us in the horticultural field. This is contrary to years ago when they were offered primarily in the fall as clumps. Most of the plants are sold in pots and must be removed from the pots before planting. The plants generally have had at least one pinch, which results in a well-branched plant. They offer a wide variety of growth habits, from small dwarf headed plants to giant shrub-like ones.

Mums are easy to grow and can provide years of enjoyment if care is taken to select an appropriate variety. Plant in a sunny, well drained, location; and provide winter protection.

Garden chrysanthemums grow best in a variety of soils but must have excellent drainage conditions. Plant the chrysanthemums the same

depth that they were growing in their containers and no deeper. The plants should be thoroughly watered after planting. Plants in semi-shady locations will be taller, have weaker stems, and bloom later in the fall.

Incorporate two to four inches of peat moss, compost, or manure into the soil. If you use only peat moss or do not add organic matter, apply three to four pounds per100 square feet of a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 5-10-5. Apply on plants with a complete fertilizer in early August, especially in years of abundant rainfall or irrigation. Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart, depending on the mature size of the cultivar.

When your mums come back the following year, to maintain a bushy compact plant form, pinch or prune regularly. Although newer

cultivars do not require pinching, the traditional method has been to pinch out the tip to induce branching and produce stockier plants. Repeat pinching on side branches when they have grown six inches. Continue pinching until mid-June for early flowering varieties, late-June for September flowering varieties, and early-July for October varieties. Complete pinching by July 4 to assure flowering prior to frost. Very high summer temperatures may also delay flowering.

Water plants regularly if the summer is dry or if soil is light and sandy. Wet soil to a depth of six to eight inches. Apply two to three inches of mulch such as grass clippings, compost, or shredded leaves to conserve soil moisture and reduce weeds.

Lack of flowering is occasionally a problem with mums. Possible causes include insufficient sun, fertilizer, or water; late pinching; root competition from nearby trees and shrubs; unusually hot weather (especially nights) in August, unusually cold weather in late August and September; and insect or disease injury.

In most instances, homeowners should consider the garden chrysanthemum an annual flower. Therefore, when frost kills the tops of the plants, cut off the dead stems and remove from the garden. Sometimes mums will come up the next spring if just the tops of the plants are cut off. If you prefer to keep them over the winter, cut off the dead tops, and cover the plants with mulch to a depth of three to four inches.

Mums the Word

The Professional GrowerBy Tim Hionis

Greenhouse Specialist

Editor’s Note: Tim Hionis has been growing plants for over 20 years, and is co-owner of Hionis Greenhouses and Garden Center in Whitehouse Station, NJ. He can be reached by calling(908) 534-7710.

Last month I introduced three considerations in assessing your gardening limitations: time, mobility and ability. I discussed time and mobility and reserved discussing ability for part 2. These considerations will help you maximize both the safety and enjoyment of your gardening experience. Lets talk about the third consideration which is ability. Determining your ability will help you make judgements about basic garden components and types of equipment. Ability factors will help determine what type of gardening is practical. Traditional ground-level gardening may be working just fine for you now, but your ability to do this will not last forever. Here are some considerations for you to keep in mind:

First can you get down to the floor, or ground and get back up without assistance?

If all you need are knee pads consider yourself fortunate. Chances are, however, that if you tried gardening from a comfortable standing position using light-weight long-handled tools you most likely find it easier.

Second, do you have any back problems or limited balance or coordination? Do you rely on a cane to get around and up and down but still able to walk long distances? Level surfaces become more important. If you cannot walk long distances either with or without assistive devices, then you may want to consider keeping frequently visited garden areas that need more attention closer to your dwelling. Include a place to sit and be comfortable if you can.

Third, can you stand on one foot or is it challenging? How are you walking up steps or inclines? If you use crutches, cane or walker, the ability to carry things becomes more important. Equipment to help you carry tools, and plants becomes a consideration.

How are you going to carry a hose, or a watering can? If you use an assistive device for walking consider that you will need to adapt. Raised planters or containers will make gardening more accessible.

Fourth, ask yourself how long you can stand on your own comfortably. If you are more comfortable seated there are many adaptive tools and methods to bring your garden to you. Here are some considerations on how to make this possible:

Seating should be positioned at intervals throughout and around the garden. Use vertical techniques. Use adaptive tools that help you to reach while standing for a short period of time. I will be writing about adaptive tools next month. Consider having a lightweight seat with you. Reaching tools and aids will do the reaching for you when you can’t do it yourself. Have you considered a raised bed so that soil, plants and planting are at an accessible height? Making the soil just one foot

higher in a traditional planter box will make gardening easier for you the seated gardener, if you can still bend safely at the waist.

If you are in a wheelchair whether it is temporary or permanent, ground level gardening is very difficult. The paraplegic who has lost use of legs can participate with little or no special equipment. Tools that extend reach will work well. Level surfaces without steps are essential.

If you have increased weakness in your arms and/or hands from arthritis, gloves and padded tools are good. Gripping aids, wrist supports and smaller lightweight tools are great adaptive supplements to heavy, long handle, traditional tools.

Fifth, visual impairment affects every aspect of gardening. Safe unobstructed flat surfaces are essential to prevent tripping hazards. Tools with bright colored handles are considerations. Use plants and plant combinations with bright, dramatic colors, form and textural contrast.

We all have similarities and differences in our abilities and limitations in the garden and in our gardening positions. There are many ways to compensate for limitations but understanding the three basic considerations as discussed will make it possible for

Adapting and modifying design space, tasks, and tools and equipment.

Considerations in Assessing Your Gardening Ability Part 2

Editors Note: Laura DePrado, is the recipient of the Somerset County Board of Agriculture Tom Everett Memorial Continuing Education Scholarship; horticultural specialist, president, Final Touch Plantscaping, LLC, NJ Certified WBE/SBE; Certificate in HT, Rutgers University, SEBS; B.S. Journalism; Certified Rutgers NJAES Master Gardener of Somerset County; Member AHTA, MAHTN and NJNLA; 2011 United Way Volunteer of the Year Finalist. Laura can be reached at laura@finaltouchplantscaping.com

By Laura DePradoContributing Writer

Gardener News22 September, 2011

Piscataway, NJ - 7 Room SplitGas Hot Air Heat, Hardwood Floors,

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Contact InformationPhone: 908.604.4444Fax: 908.647.5459 Website: www.GardenerNews.comE-Mail: Mail@GardenerNews.com

StaffExecutive Editor/ Publisher . . . . Tom CastronovoArt Director . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Justin KukucAdvertising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tom Castronovo

September Columnists Tom Castronovo Craig Korb Todd Pretz Tim Hionis Evan Dickerson Bob LaHoff Richard Perkins Paul Kneeland Peter Melick Robert Andreucci Jody Shilan

Contributing Writers Bruce Crawford Jeannie Geremia Laura DePrado Union Co. Master Gardeners

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The Gardener News invites correspondences on gardening subjects of interest. Gardener News, Inc, and its Publisher reserve the right to accept, refuse, or discontinue any editorial or copy, and shall not be liable to anyone for printing errors, misinformation or omissions in editorial or copy. The information contained in articles herein represents the opinions of the authors and, although believed to be accurate and complete, is not represented or warranted by Gardener News, Inc. to be accurate or complete.All advertising is subject to the Gardener News advertisement rates, and must be PAID IN FULL at time of submission. Publisher reserves the right at its absolute discretion, and at any time, to cancel any advertising order or reject any advertising copy whether or not the same has already been acknowledged and/or previously published. In the event of errors or omissions of any advertisement(s), the newspapers liability shall not exceed a refund of amounts paid for the advertisement.NOTE: All editorial, advertising layouts and designs and portions of the same that are produced and published by Gardener News, Inc., are the sole property of Gardener News, Inc. and may not be reproduced in any form unless written authorization is obtained from the publisher. POSTMASTER: Send all address changes to: Gardener News, 16 Mount Bethel Rd - #123, Warren, NJ 07059.(c) 2011 Gardener News, Inc.

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TIP OF THE MONTHApples are one of the easiest fruits to pick and use. Apples ripen from the outside of the tree toward the center, so the apples on the outside of the tree will ripen first. Picking apples directly from a tree is easy. Roll the apple upwards off the branch and give a little twist; don’t pull straight away from the tree. Don’t shake the branches or the tree. If the apple you are trying to pick drops, (or others on the tree) go ahead and pick it up. They’re perfectly fine! Apples stay fresh longer when kept in a cool place, like the refrigerator. To help them last even longer, don’t wash the apple until you’re ready to eat it.

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CERTIFIED PUBLIC ACCOUNTANT

New Jersey’s Public Gardens Show Off Their LIQUID ASSETSWater is on every gardener’s mind, especially during the summer. This summer’s

record temperatures have drawn special attention to this critical natural resource. Throughout September, 2011, New Jersey’s public gardens present LIQUID ASSETS, a wide range of exhibits and programs focusing on water.

For example, you can make a rain barrel for your garden, learn about unusual cactus, tour a geothermal well system, take a streamside walk, visit a bog, understand how a detention basin works, incorporate water plants into your garden, get irrigation tips, visit a restored water garden, see a water-themed sculpture exhibit, hear a talk on water and wildlife or experience a living roof at one of New Jersey’s public gardens.

Gardens participating in LIQUID ASSETS include

Bamboo Brook Outdoor Education Center www.morrisparks.netBarton Arboretum & Nature Preserve www.medfordleas.orgLeonard J. Buck Garden www/somersetcountyparks.orgSister Mary Grace Burns Arboretum www.georgian.edu/arboretum/index.htmDuke Farms www.dukefarms.orgThe Frelinghuysen Arboretum www.arboretumfriends.orgMorven Museums & Garden www.morven.orgNJ Botanic Garden / Skylands www.njbg.orgReeves-Reed Arboretum www.reeves-reedarboretum.orgRutgers Gardens www.rutgersgardens.rutgers.edu

For complete LIQUID ASSETS programs details, visit www.gardenstategardens.org

These programs are a joint initiative of Garden State Gardens, a non profit consortium of New Jersey public gardens, whose mission is to increase the public’s awareness of and appreciation for the beauty and horticultural, educational, artistic and historic value of New Jersey’s public gardens.

Gardener News22 September, 2011

Piscataway, NJ - 7 Room SplitGas Hot Air Heat, Hardwood Floors,

Garage, Basement, 1 ½ Baths, No Pets, $1,750 Per Month Plus Utilities,

1 ½ Months Security Due Before Moving In.

Call (732) 271-8244

FOR RENTG a r d e n e r N e w s

The Premier Gardening Monthly NewspaperVolume 9 Number 101 Published Monthly

Contact InformationPhone: 908.604.4444Fax: 908.647.5459 Website: www.GardenerNews.comE-Mail: Mail@GardenerNews.com

StaffExecutive Editor/ Publisher . . . . Tom CastronovoArt Director . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Justin KukucAdvertising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tom Castronovo

September Columnists Tom Castronovo Craig Korb Todd Pretz Tim Hionis Evan Dickerson Bob LaHoff Richard Perkins Paul Kneeland Peter Melick Robert Andreucci Jody Shilan

Contributing Writers Bruce Crawford Jeannie Geremia Laura DePrado Union Co. Master Gardeners

Gardener News is published monthly by

Gardener News, Inc.16 Mount Bethel Road #123

Warren, NJ 07059Subscription Information

Subscription: One year by mail $24.99

The Gardener News invites correspondences on gardening subjects of interest. Gardener News, Inc, and its Publisher reserve the right to accept, refuse, or discontinue any editorial or copy, and shall not be liable to anyone for printing errors, misinformation or omissions in editorial or copy. The information contained in articles herein represents the opinions of the authors and, although believed to be accurate and complete, is not represented or warranted by Gardener News, Inc. to be accurate or complete.All advertising is subject to the Gardener News advertisement rates, and must be PAID IN FULL at time of submission. Publisher reserves the right at its absolute discretion, and at any time, to cancel any advertising order or reject any advertising copy whether or not the same has already been acknowledged and/or previously published. In the event of errors or omissions of any advertisement(s), the newspapers liability shall not exceed a refund of amounts paid for the advertisement.NOTE: All editorial, advertising layouts and designs and portions of the same that are produced and published by Gardener News, Inc., are the sole property of Gardener News, Inc. and may not be reproduced in any form unless written authorization is obtained from the publisher. POSTMASTER: Send all address changes to: Gardener News, 16 Mount Bethel Rd - #123, Warren, NJ 07059.(c) 2011 Gardener News, Inc.

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Warren CountyPhone: 908-475-6505

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TIP OF THE MONTHApples are one of the easiest fruits to pick and use. Apples ripen from the outside of the tree toward the center, so the apples on the outside of the tree will ripen first. Picking apples directly from a tree is easy. Roll the apple upwards off the branch and give a little twist; don’t pull straight away from the tree. Don’t shake the branches or the tree. If the apple you are trying to pick drops, (or others on the tree) go ahead and pick it up. They’re perfectly fine! Apples stay fresh longer when kept in a cool place, like the refrigerator. To help them last even longer, don’t wash the apple until you’re ready to eat it.

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TO RESERVE AD SPACE IN GARDENER NEWSCALL: 908.604.4444

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“Let Us Help You Grow”973-423-4949

CERTIFIED PUBLIC ACCOUNTANT

New Jersey’s Public Gardens Show Off Their LIQUID ASSETSWater is on every gardener’s mind, especially during the summer. This summer’s

record temperatures have drawn special attention to this critical natural resource. Throughout September, 2011, New Jersey’s public gardens present LIQUID ASSETS, a wide range of exhibits and programs focusing on water.

For example, you can make a rain barrel for your garden, learn about unusual cactus, tour a geothermal well system, take a streamside walk, visit a bog, understand how a detention basin works, incorporate water plants into your garden, get irrigation tips, visit a restored water garden, see a water-themed sculpture exhibit, hear a talk on water and wildlife or experience a living roof at one of New Jersey’s public gardens.

Gardens participating in LIQUID ASSETS include

Bamboo Brook Outdoor Education Center www.morrisparks.netBarton Arboretum & Nature Preserve www.medfordleas.orgLeonard J. Buck Garden www/somersetcountyparks.orgSister Mary Grace Burns Arboretum www.georgian.edu/arboretum/index.htmDuke Farms www.dukefarms.orgThe Frelinghuysen Arboretum www.arboretumfriends.orgMorven Museums & Garden www.morven.orgNJ Botanic Garden / Skylands www.njbg.orgReeves-Reed Arboretum www.reeves-reedarboretum.orgRutgers Gardens www.rutgersgardens.rutgers.edu

For complete LIQUID ASSETS programs details, visit www.gardenstategardens.org

These programs are a joint initiative of Garden State Gardens, a non profit consortium of New Jersey public gardens, whose mission is to increase the public’s awareness of and appreciation for the beauty and horticultural, educational, artistic and historic value of New Jersey’s public gardens.

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Gardener News24 September, 2011