Garde Chapter

P R E R E Q U I S I T E S

Before reading this chapter, you should already

k Have read “How to Use This Book,” pagesxxviii–xxxiii, and understand the professionalrecipe format.

k Know basic sanitation procedures forproducts served raw.

k Know state and local regulations for food-service glove use.

Chapter

3

06_179963_ch03.qxp:179963_Gisslen 2/2/10 12:04 PM Page 56

Salads made from leafy greens are among today’s

most popular foods. Salad greens were once considered a

seasonal item because they were available for a short

time only in the spring and then again in the cool early fall months.

Now most salad greens can be enjoyed year round. Yet each type

of green still has its optimal season, or time of year, when it is most

readily available. In its season you will find the flavor and texture

of that particular salad green is at its best. Garde manger chefs

can emphasize the seasonal nature of greens by creating light,

delicate salads in the springtime, featuring colorful, robust salads

in the summer, and offering rustic combinations of sturdy greens

in fall and winter.

Everyone knows that salads are healthful. In addition to provid-

ing high amounts of vitamins and minerals, salad greens provide a

wealth of the essential dietary fiber lacking in many modern diets.

If tossed with vinaigrette dressing, salads contribute additional

vitamins from the vinaigrette’s acid component as well as the

healthful nutrients found in vegetable oils. Green salads are a

favorite of health-conscious customers, people on weight-loss

regimens, and anyone who prefers to eat lightly.

After reading this chapter, youshould be able to

1. Explain the differences between simple salads andtossed salads.

2. List the five salad greens flavorgroups and identify the greensthat belong to each.

3. Discuss the advantages anddisadvantages of the marketforms in which salad greensare available.

4. Recognize signs of quality insalad greens.

5. Properly store, clean, and fabricate salad greens.

6. Prepare salads using à la carte,tableside, family-style, andbanquet procedures.

7. Create salads that are attractive,well balanced, and seasonal.

Simple Salads andTossed Salads

57


S A L A D S M A D E F RO M L E A F Y G R E E N S

One reason for the popularity of salads is that there are so many kinds. In thischapter we focus on salads made primarily from leafy greens. Other, more com-plicated salads made from raw and cooked vegetables, fruits, grains, legumes,or various protein foods are classified as complex salads. These are covered inChapter 5.

Simple SaladsA salad of leafy greens tossed with a vinaigrette dressing and having few or nogarnishes is known as a simple salad. In formal European dining, simple saladsare served after the main course in order to refresh the palate. In more casualmeals they are also served as side dishes, frequently accompanying grilled orroasted meats. In American dining, simple salads may be served as appetizers.However, when lots of garnishes are added to a leafy greens salad, or whendressings other than vinaigrettes are used on it, we can no longer correctly callit a simple salad.

The dividing line between a simple salad and a complex salad is a bit sub-jective. Some chefs believe adding a cherry tomato or a few toasted nuts to a green salad places it in the realm of a complex salad. Others tolerate a fewgarnishes on a green salad and still call it a simple salad. However, most agreethat a green salad tossed with a creamy or mayonnaise-based dressing is not a classic simple salad. Nor is a green salad topped or tossed with numerousvegetable garnishes correctly called a simple salad even if it is dressed only withvinaigrette. For these types of salad, Americans have created a different name:the tossed salad.

Tossed SaladsA green salad mixed or topped with a vari-ety of brightly colored vegetable garnishes,typically served with the diner’s choice ofdressing, is known as a tossed salad. Asan alternative to vinaigrette-type dress-ings, a tossed salad may be served with adairy- or mayonnaise-based dressing.Tossed salads function as a light starterto be eaten before a substantial maincourse. Served in large portions, a tossedsalad is sometimes called a dinner saladand served as a light entrée.

S A L A D I N G R E D I E N T S

The term greens does not accurately describe all salad options available. Frommagenta radicchio to ivory-colored Belgian endive, today’s salad greens come in

58 C H A P T E R 3 S I M P L E S A L A D S A N D T O S S E D S A L A D S

Salads in History

Both the composition of saladsand their place in cuisine havechanged significantly throughthe centuries. Medieval andRenaissance diners enjoyedsimple green salads as accom-paniments to large joints ofroasted beef and game. By thetime of John Evelyn’s Acetaria: ADiscourse on Sallets (1699),which advised dressing greenswith Lucca olive oil, vinegar infused with flowers and herbs,and crystalline sea salt, saladswere virtually identical to manyserved today. By that time, how-ever, they had fallen out of favorwith the English upper classes.

Not so in the Americancolonies. Thomas Jefferson’sdiaries record his growing numerous native and Europeansalad greens and serving themdressed with imported oils andvinegars. Salads never lost favor with the French. Then andnow, in France no serious mealis considered complete withouta vinaigrette salad served afterthe main course.

In the 1920s, Californiansbegan serving green salads asappetizers. Also at that time,Americans started tossinggreen salads with mayonnaise-based dressings. Today greensalads are served as appetizers,side dishes, and even entrées.No matter how served, a greensalad is always appreciated.

Mixed Green Salad with Classic FrenchVinaigrette, a simple salad

Steakhouse Tossed Salad with ButtermilkRanch Dressing, a tossed salad


many colors, enabling the garde manger chef to create attractive simple saladswithout resorting to bright-colored garnishes. Adding to variety, leaf shapesrange from tiny, spoon-shaped mâche leaves to ruffled lolla rossa to spikyfrisée. Textures are even more varied. Chefs can choose from soft and tenderbutter lettuces, crunchy head lettuces, crinkly spinach, delicate micro greens,and firm chicories. Finally, each salad green has its own unique taste.

Salad Greens: The Five Flavor GroupsChefs often group vegetables by their botanical genus and species name. Forinstance, the term brassica is used to group some greens of the cabbage/ mustard family. Usually, though, it’s more helpful for chefs to categorize saladgreens according to similarities in taste, texture, and appearance. Because tasteis subjective and traditions vary, it is likely you will find some greens categorizeddifferently by different chefs. The following lists will be helpful when choosingand combining leafy greens to make tasty and interesting salads.

Lettuces

Loose-leaf lettuce appears as large bunches of broad, ribbed leaves withruffled edges. Its flavor ranges from mild to bland depending on itssource, and it has a delicate texture that wilts easily. It is available ingreen-leaf and red-leaf varieties.

Oak-leaf lettuce consists of small bunches of slender, delicate leaveswith a distinctive oak-leaf shape. Its mild flavor is pleasantly fresh andslightly herbal. Standard oak leaf is pastel green, while red oak leaf hasrusset to burgundy leaf tips.

Romaine or cos has large, elongated bunches of loosely formed headswith large, deep-green leaves and large pale-green ribs. Romaine is full-flavored, crunchy, sturdy, and long-keeping. Romaine hearts are theheads stripped of the outer leaves, leaving only the pale inner leaves;these are usually sold in a three-pack.

Boston lettuce comes in medium- to large-sized round heads with delicate,cupped leaves. It ranges from bright green outside to pale green in themiddle to ivory-yellow at the heart. It is quite perishable. Boston lettuce’ssoft texture and mild, buttery flavor are best enhanced with thin, lightdressings.

Bibb lettuce or limestone lettuce has small to very small heads withflared or cupped leaves fading from dark green at the tips to creamywhite at the base and forming a tight, creamy-white heart. Bibb is delicatein texture and quite perishable. It has a mild, subtle flavor.

Lolla rossa comes in small, loose heads of ruffled leaves that are palegreen at the base and deep burgundy-red at the tips. It has a moderatelysturdy texture, a fluffy mouthfeel, and a delicate flavor.

Mâche [MAHSH] is also called lamb’s lettuce, lamb’s tongue, field lettuce,and corn salad. It consists of small, delicate deep-green oval leaves onslender stems. It has a very tender texture and a delicate, nutty flavor.

S A L A D I N G R E D I E N T S 59

Lolla rossa


Iceberg is the generic name for commercially grown crisp-head lettuce.These large, firm heads have crisp, cupped leaves largely composed ofwater. Its crunchy texture is its best attribute; its high water content andthe large-scale commercial conditions under which it is grown result in aflavor that ranges from bland to tasteless.

Spinach and Beet Greens

Curly spinach has dark-green, deeply crin-kled leaves with large veins and coarse stems;both veins and stems must be removed before eating. The crevices in spinach leavescapture dirt, so careful washing is necessary.The unique texture gives spinach a fluffymouthfeel without crispness.

Flat-leaf spinach is similar to curly spinach,but without the crinkles. It is easier to cleanthan curly spinach, but lacks its mouthfeel.

Baby spinach consists of small, delicate,rounded leaves; its short, tender stems neednot be removed. It has a mild flavor. It is usu-ally sold prewashed and dried; the higher costis offset by its resulting ease of preparation.

Baby Swiss chard has small, slightly ruffledleaves, and is available in both dark greenand vivid red. It is noted for its earthy flavor. Itis usually sold prewashed and dried.

Baby beet greens are instantly recognizableas small, pointed, dark-green leaves withbright-red stems and veins. They have anearthy flavor that is an acquired taste. Highlyperishable, they are among the first greensto deteriorate.

Brassicas

Baby kale consists of small, slightly elongated deep-green leaves with alittle ruffle at the tips. It has a sturdy texture and mild cabbage flavor.

Baby collards have small, rounded medium-green leaves. They have asturdy texture and a sweet, mildly cabbage-like flavor.

Tatsoi [taht-SOY] has small, rounded and cupped, deep-green leaveswith white stems and veins. It has a delicate, slightly crisp texture with awarm flavor and a slight peppery bite.

Cabbages of full size are rarely used in fine dining salads. However, fine-shredded European and Asian cabbages can be added to casual saladmixtures. Red cabbage is often included in green salads for color.

Spicy Greens

Watercress has small to tiny rounded, dark-green leaves on prominentstems. Its leaf texture is delicate, but the stems are crunchy. Large stems


The History of Iceberg Lettuce—Tossed, Shredded,

and Wedged

In the 1920s, American horticul-turalists developed a type of lettuce that could withstand unrefrigerated rail shippingfrom the West Coast to the East.These sturdy, round heads ofcrisp-textured, bland-flavoredlettuce were named Iceberg,possibly because of their rock-hard texture or because theywere packed in crushed ice forthe trip. By the 1950s, mostAmericans considered Icebergto be the lettuce. In fact, manyAmericans were unaware thatany other kind of salad green existed. Iceberg lettuce’s roundshape inspired some anonymouspantry cook to cut it into wedges,like a cabbage, and serve it on a plate drizzled with a thick,mayonnaise-based dressing.This “Wedge of Iceberg” saladwas a prominent feature of theAmerican dining scene well into the 1960s, and it is stillfound on some deliberately old-fashioned, or “retro,” menus.

Flat-leaf spinach© iStockphoto.

Baby beet greens© iStockphoto.

Curly spinach


tend to be tough and should be trimmed. Watercress has a cool, pepperyflavor. Wild cress can be very sharp in flavor; cultivated watercress isgrown in flooded man-made beds and is milder in taste.

Garden cress is sometimes called upland cress or field cress. It is grownon dry land and has larger leaves than watercress, with a milder flavor.

Arugula [ah-ROO-goo-lah] (also rugula, rocket, roquette) has elongatedleaves with a sculpted, oak-leaf shape emerging from tough, prominentstems. Dark green in color, it has a pungent, “hot,” spicy flavor. Rarelyused alone, it adds a powerful punch when combined with other greens.Take care when cleaning, as it can be sandy.

Mizuna [mee-ZOO-nah] (technically mini-mizuna or Japanese mini-mustard)is distinctive in appearance, with tiny, jagged dark-green leaves on promi-nent stems. It has a peppery, mustardy flavor and a fluffy mouthfeel.

Baby mustard greens are small, dark-green, rounded leaves with awarm, spicy-bitter flavor and delicate texture.

Baby turnip greens are similar to baby mustard greens, but they haveearthy flavor overtones.

Bitter Greens

Curly endive is also called chicory. It consists of elongated bunches oflong, narrow leaves that are ruffled at the pointed tips. The outside leavesare dark green with white veins. Inside, the leaves form an ivory-coloredcore. The texture ranges from sturdy to tough, while flavor ranges fromslight bitterness in young specimens to considerable bitterness whenovergrown.

Frisée [free-ZAY] is a variety of curly endive. The low, compact buncheshave delicate, feathery, pointed leaves. Good-quality specimens are almost completely ivory in color, with a slight greening on the outsideleaves. Frisée has a mildly bitter flavor and a ruffled texture.

Belgian endive [awn-DEEV] is also called witloof chicory. Its small, bullet-shaped heads have smooth, crunchy, pointed leaves. Heads of goodquality have ivory leaves with only slight yellowing at the tips. Green tipsare a sign of improper growing practices. Belgian endive has a sophisti-cated, mildly bitter flavor.

Escarole [ESS-ka-roll] appears as large, elongated bunches of broad,thick, ruffled leaves. The exterior leaves are pale green with prominent,pale ivory ribs, while the interior leaves are pale ivory to yellowish-white.Escarole has a sturdy to tough texture and a bitter flavor.

Radicchio [rah-DEE-kee-oh] is unmistakable, appearing as small tomedium-size rounded heads of magenta leaves with prominent creamy-white veins. Radicchio has a sturdy texture and mildly bitter chicory flavor.

Treviso [tray-VEE-so] has pigmentation similar to radicchio, but the headis like a small, flared romaine. Its color is slightly more brownish-magentathan radicchio, and sometimes shows freckling. Both its texture and flavor are similar to radicchio.

Dandelion greens have elongated, medium-green leaves with jagged,notched edges. The original French name, dent de lion [dahn duh lee-OHN], or “lion’s tooth,” comes from its leaf shape. Wild dandelion mustbe harvested young and small, while its distinctive, bitter flavor is stillpalatable. Cultivated dandelion is larger and milder in flavor.

S A L A D I N G R E D I E N T S 61

Dandelion greens© iStockphoto.


Immature Salad GreensIn addition to traditional salad greens, today’s garde manger chefs make use ofnew forms of salad greens and vegetables that have come into wide availabilityonly in the last few years.

Sprouts are the first shoots produced from a plant seed. They are har-vested before any true leaves have formed. Sprouts from virtually anyvegetable plant are edible, and all are packed with nutrients. Mung beanor soy sprouts are used in Asian cooking and salads, while mild alfalfasprouts and peppery radish and mustard sprouts are often added to contemporary salads.

Micro greens consist of the stem and the first true leaves that form aftera plant has sprouted. Micro greens have a lacy texture and a flavor reminiscent of the mature plant, but much more delicate. They may beharvested from lettuces and herb plants as well as from other vegetableplants, such as corn shoots and pea shoots.

Baby greens are the young, immature leaves of standard lettuces andother salad greens. While they are usually blended into prepared saladmixes, baby greens are also available packaged individually. Many vegetables, such as cabbages and turnip greens, are marketed as saladgreens in their “baby” form only but are used as cooking vegetables whenfully mature.

Greens MixesProprietary greens mixes, or brand-name mixtures of salad greens, are nowwidely available in many forms. These are called “proprietary” because eachproducer has its own blend. Perhaps the best known is a mixture called mesclun[MEHZ-klun], a mixture of baby lettuces, young arugula, and immature redchicory that originated in Provence, a region of southern France. Mesclun marketed in North America may even include such nontraditional greens asmini-mizuna or baby bok choy.

Another popular greens blend is called spring mix. This blend can containvirtually any baby green or specialty green, depending on the formula used bythe producer.

Most greens mixes are sold prewashed and dried, ready for immediate use.

Fresh Herbs and Edible FlowersThe leaves of fresh herbs add a pronounced flavor accent to salad greens. Thechoice of herb to add to a salad depends on the flavors of the other greens aswell as the seasoning of the vinaigrette. Fresh herbs for salads may be gentlytorn into little pieces or cut into chiffonnade. Tiny herb leaves, called pluches[PLOOSH], may be added whole.

The petals of edible flowers are a wonderful addition to simple salads, addingattractive bursts of color and, in many cases, a distinctive and unusual flavor.Brightly colored pansy petals, delicate miniature orchids, and peppery nasturtiumblossoms are popular edible flowers. Herb flowers lend an attractive appearanceas well as a hint of herbal flavor. If the flowers are meant to be eaten as part ofthe salad (as opposed to being used as a garnish), they are usually pulled apartinto petals and the interior organs discarded. Care must be taken to acquireflowers raised specifically as food items to avoid the risk of contamination byherbicides and pesticides.


Sprouts© iStockphoto.

Edible flowers© iStockphoto.


P U R C H A S I N G S A L A D G R E E N S

Salad greens are produced in several ways. Each production type has advantagesand disadvantages. The informed chef chooses the type that suits the demandsof both the operation and the season.

Market Forms

Conventionally Grown GreensBy far the best way to obtain salad greens is to purchase them in their naturalseason directly from a local truck farmer or specialty grower. Greens eaten onlyhours after harvest have superior flavor and texture, and they contain almosttheir entire original nutrient content. Such greens have a distinct local flavorderived from the particular qualities of the area’s soil and climate. Small growersoften choose to plant more exotic and flavorful varieties than do large commercialgrowers. Such greens are quite perishable. Be sure to refrigerate these greensas soon as they arrive.

Commercially grown greens may be raised in open fields or under cover inhoop houses. They are comparatively low in cost, consistent in quality, and avail-able virtually year-round. Commercially grown greens are rapid-cooled afterpicking and typically last longer than local greens.

Organic salad greens are grown by methods that comply with the U.S. Depart-ment of Agriculture (USDA) guidelines for organic produce (p. 78). They are grownwithout the use of chemical fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides, and theirseeds have not been genetically modified. The effects of chemicals used ingrowing salad greens are direct and potentially dangerous to human health. Forthis reason, many customers prefer salads made with organic greens.

Hydroponic GreensHydroponics is the practice of growing plants in water-based nutrient solutions,normally in climate-controlled greenhouses. Hydroponic systems allow growersto raise and harvest delicate food plants throughout the entire year. Salad greensthrive under hydroponic growing conditions. However, many chefs believe theylack flavor. Most hydroponic lettuces are sold in “living” form.

“Living” GreensSalad greens and herbs sold with their roots intact are marketed as “living”greens. These are packaged with their root ball submerged in a shallow well ofwater. A few specialty producers market herbs and baby greens in flats of soil,ready for the chef to harvest with scissors. The big advantage of such greens istheir freshness. If rooted lettuces are stored in a few inches of fresh water, theywill keep for many days or even weeks, in some instances. The disadvantagesof these products are their high cost, the storage space they require, and, in thecase of hydroponic living greens, the environmental impact of their packaging.

Precleaned, Prefabricated GreensIncreasingly popular with consumers and food-service operations alike, pack-ages of pre-cleaned and cut salad greens save a lot of labor. However, due to

P U R C H A S I N G S A L A D G R E E N S 63


intensive handling, they are more perishable than fresh conventional greens. Further, they can pose health risksfrom bacterial and viral contamination. In recent years, sev-eral outbreaks of food-borne illness have been traced topre-cleaned greens. Finally, certain customers may have allergic reactions to the antioxidants often used on pre-cleaned greens.

Packaged, pre-cleaned, and prefabricated greens mustbe strictly rotated, used quickly, and carefully inspected forwilting and spoilage. The time involved in picking throughsuch mixes can be more labor-intensive than washing andfabricating conventional greens.

Quality Evaluation of Salad GreensThe most important quality to look for in any type of saladgreen is freshness. A perfectly fresh salad green is turgid(the opposite of flaccid, or wilted; see illustration and photoat left). In other words, its cells are full of water. Its leavesstand upright when the bunch is picked up, and each leafbreaks cleanly when pulled apart. The leaf edges show nosigns of softening, flattening, or disintegration. A fresh salad

green is vividly colored and has no bruising or brown discoloration, called rust,where it was cut at harvest. Lettuce heads should be firm and relatively heavy,indicating sufficient moisture content and proper maturity.

Maturity is another quality factor. Avoid purchasing big, overgrown lettuceheads or long, spindly bunches of loose greens. Extreme overmaturity is a statedescribed as bolted, in which a lettuce or other type of green develops long, thickstems, grows tall, and has flattened or even inverted leaves. Such specimensare tough and have a strong, often bitter flavor.

CLEANING, FABRICATING,AND STORING SALAD GREENS

Salad greens are among the most perishable foods in the professional kitchen.Correct handling during fabrication is essential to minimize waste and ensure aquality product.

Storing Unprepped Salad Greens Most salad greens must be stored between 38°F and 42°F (3°C and 6°C) and under conditions of moderate humidity. Very large food-service operationsmaintain separate refrigeration units specifically dedicated to salad greens andother leafy vegetables. However, most food-service operations just use thewarmest spot in the walk-in (normally near the door and away from the com-pressor) to store salad greens.

It is best to keep commercially grown salad greens in their original contain-ers as long as possible. These containers are manufactured for proper storage.Greens obtained from a farm or purchased loose are best stored in bus tubs,arranged in shallow layers and kept covered with damp kitchen towels. Livinggreens and stemmed greens keep longest if stored upright with their roots orfreshly cut stem ends in a few inches of water and their tops covered with damptowels. Remove any rubber bands or twist-ties, as they cause bruising.


Turgid

Flaccid

cytosolcell membrane

cell membrane

cell wall

cytosol

cell wall

Vegetable cells, turgid and flaccid

Wilted greens (left) and turgid greens (right)


Before storing, also remove any visibly wilted or decaying leaves, which cancause further decay. With the exception of pre-cleaned, prefabricated products,salad greens should not be stored in sealed plastic bags because trapped mois-ture and respired gases can speed the deterioration of the greens.

C L E A N I N G , F A B R I C A T I N G , A N D S T O R I N G S A L A D G R E E N S 65

Procedure for Cleaning Salad Greens

With the exception of commercially pre-cleaned products, all salad greens must be thoroughly washed,drained, and dried before they are consumed.

1. SeparatingRemove the leaves from the core or the stems (A) and discard anyunusable parts. Do not tear or cut the greens into pieces beforewashing, as the absorption of excess water leads to wilting anddecay.

2. WashingThorough washing of salad greens is of the utmost importance.Consuming a mouthful of grit along with a bite of salad is an unpleasant experience. Washing also removes foreign matter suchas insects and bits of packaging. The water used for washing saladgreens may be treated with a commercial vegetable sanitizer, aproduct that kills a broad spectrum of food-borne pathogens andthat may remove or neutralize pesticides and herbicides. Someoperations treat salad greens with antioxidant solutions that pre-vent browning. These should be used in small and carefully meas-ured quantities, as some people are allergic to these substances.

k Completely submerge the greens in cold water. Gentle swishingor up-and-down agitation of the water (B) helps loosen and dislodge dirt particles, after which the water should be left undis-turbed for a few minutes so the particles sink to the bottom.Curly spinach, arugula, and any other salad green that appearsvery dirty may need repeated washing in several changes of water.

k Slightly wilted greens benefit from a longer soaking in waterthat has been chilled with the addition of ice. After 10 to 20minutes, the cell walls will regain a measure of turgidity andthe greens will crisp up. Drain the greens after about 20 minutes to prevent the leaves from becoming waterlogged.

3. DrainingDrain the salad greens without delay to prevent them from becoming waterlogged and to prevent loss of flavor and nutrientsthrough leaching.

k Lift the greens out of their washing water into a colander (C) or perforated pan rather than drainingthe sink. If the sink is drained while the greens are still in it, the greens will settle onto the bottomand become recontaminated with particles of dirt.

k Do not pour the greens and the wash water into a colander. You will only pour the soil that hasbeen removed back onto the greens.

4. DryingDrying greens properly is essential for maintaining quality. Moisture remaining on greens has twodestructive results. First, the greens become soft and soggy, and the decay process is (continues)

A

B

C


(continued)

hastened. Second, the moisture prevents the dressing from properly adhering to the leaves. The outcome is a mess of bland,soggy greens sitting in a pool of watery, diluted dressing.

k A salad spinner is the most effective drying means. Electricallypowered commercial spinners quickly and gently dry many pounds of greens at one time. Wet greens are placed in the central basket of the machine. The machine spins the basket ata rapid speed. The moisture is physically forced to the outsideof the chamber and runs down into the bottom of the machine.Machine-dried greens can be stored for a day or two in perforated plastic bags.

k Instead of a commercial spinner, you can dry salad greens in kitchen linen after shaking them as dry as possible in acolander. Lay out clean, dry kitchen towels or aprons on a worksurface, spread the greens in a single layer (D), and gently rollthe greens in the towels (E). Place in a clean, dry bus tub orhotel pan and immediately refrigerate them. Within an hour ortwo, the linens will absorb excess moisture and the greens willbe ready to serve.E

Storing Prepped Salad GreensOnce salad greens are cleaned and dried, they should be used as quickly as possible. However, fresh, properly washed and dried sturdy greens will last several days in the refrigerator. If refrigerated for more than 24 hours, check formoisture. If still a little wet, rewrap in dry linen. Once the greens are nicely dry,transfer them to perforated plastic bags; they can usually be refrigerated inthese bags for a few days longer.

Fabricating Salad GreensMost greens must be fabricated into bite-sized pieces that are easy to eat using only a fork. If the central vein of a lettuce leaf is thick, discolored, or bitter,it may be removed during fabrication.

Fabricate greens as close to service time as possible. Once fabricated, thegreens have more open surface area exposed to oxygen and moisture, and theydecay more rapidly. Refrigerate fabricated greens in a freshly sanitized, thor-oughly dried container covered with a damp towel. It is best to fabricate soft anddelicate greens, such as Boston and Bibb lettuces, to order.

The two fabrication methods most commonly used for salad greens aretearing and cutting.

TearingThe classic method of reducing salad greens into bite-sized pieces is to tear theleaves. This must be accomplished without twisting, crushing, or bruising the leaves, and is somewhat time-consuming. In the past, cutting with old-fashioned carbon-steel knives discolored the leaves, which is the reason for theold rule never to cut salad greens. Today, tearing greens is still the preferredfabrication method in fine-dining restaurants, as it does the least damage to thecell structure of the leaves and gives salads a handcrafted appearance.


Tearing salad greens

D


CuttingFor speed and efficiency, sturdy greens, such as iceberg and romaine, may befabricated by cutting. Using a stainless-steel knife, you can quickly stack and cutthe greens into bite-sized squares or shreds. Iceberg lettuce may be shreddedon an automatic slicing machine.

F O U R M E T H O D S O F P R E PA R I N G S I M P L E

A N D T O S S E D S A L A D S

Simple salad preparation varies according to the service style used by the indi-vidual food-service operation.

À la Carte Salad PreparationIn fine-dining restaurants, simple salads are always prepared to order by placingthe greens in a work bowl and tossing them with a light coating of the specifieddressing. The goal in dressing salad greens is to coat each individual leaf with alight film of dressing, so each bite is perfectly balanced in flavor.

To maintain proper portion control, garde manger chefs must becomeskilled at estimating the proper amounts of both greens and dressing. For speedof preparation and good control of application, vinaigrettes and other dressingsare typically kept in large squeeze bottles. To lightly coat whole, delicate leavesof lettuce for an arranged presentation, garde manger chefs occasionally putlight, thin dressings into spray bottles and mist the greens with the dressing.While greens are being tossed with the dressing, small pieces of nonjuicy garnish ingredients are sometimes added and mixed in. Salads may be tossedand plated with a gloved hand or with tongs. They may be completed with theaddition of a simple garnish.

F O U R M E T H O D S O F P R E P A R I N G S I M P L E A N D T O S S E D S A L A D S 67

Measuring Portionsfor à la Carte Salads

Portion control is an essentialskill for any food-service profes-sional. In a well-run establish-ment there are strict portioncontrol guidelines for all foodproducts, including salad greensand dressings. For both accuracyand costing purposes, saladgreens portions are correctly expressed in units of weight.However, for the garde mangerchef making salads to order during a busy à la carte service,weighing each portion is simplynot practical. Instead, chefs usually portion salad greens by eye, estimating the correctvolume amount that equals theprescribed weight amount.

To accurately measure saladgreens by eye, practice byweighing out the correct amountof various types of greens. Takenote of the volume amount thatrepresents the most commonlyused weight of the greens usedin your salads. Test yourselffrom time to time to make sureyour estimates remain accurate.

Cutting salad greens

a. To dress a salad à la carte, squeeze asmall amount of dressing onto the greens.

c. Mound the greens on the plate.

b. Use a gloved hand or tongs to gently tossthe greens with the dressing.

Misting greens with dressing in a spray bottle


Tableside Salad PreparationAlthough the practice is less popular today, tableside preparation of simple salads is a classic way to create excitement and present a high-quality productat the same time. In North America, tableside salad making is most commonlyassociated with the Caesar salad. However, in European restaurants the after-entrée salad is often presented in this manner. Greens, dressing ingredients,and garnishes are wheeled to the table on a gueridon [GEH-ree-don], or servicecart. Guests may confer with the captain as to the type of oils, vinegars, and seasonings used in the dressing. The dressing is mixed in the bottom of an attractive wooden salad bowl, and the salad greens are tossed with the dressingbefore being plated, garnished, and served.


Guidelines for Creating Superior Simple Salads

k Simple salads require the best ingredients. In addition to using the freshest greens, you must alsosearch for the best and freshest garnishes and vinaigrette ingredients. The off-flavor of a low-gradevinegar or a slightly rancid oil might be hidden in a more complex salad, but such poor ingredients areinstantly noticeable in a simple salad.

k For each salad, choose greens and garnish items whose textures, flavors, and colors complement oneanother. Delicate micro greens added to a winter salad based on hearty chicories would be over-whelmed in both flavor and texture. Adding julienne carrots to a radicchio salad would result in an unpleasant clash of colors. Adding Asian mung bean sprouts to a Provençal mesclun mix makes nosense in terms of ethnicity.

k Match the texture and flavor of the dressing to the character of the greens. Sturdier greens can standup to rich, thick vinaigrettes, while delicate greens need a lighter, thinner dressing. For example, Bel-gian endive is excellent dressed with a thick mustard mayonnaise, while tender Boston lettuce is bestwith a lemon vinaigrette. Mild, subtly flavored greens do well with nonvinegar acid components andthus marry well with citrus or verjus vinaigrettes.

k Combine greens, dressings, and garnishes with care and discretion. Flavors may be compounded orcontrasted. To compound flavors, the vinaigrette for a salad containing nutty-flavored mâche mightcontain walnut oil, and the salad could be garnished with toasted walnut pieces. To contrast flavors,imagine a slightly bitter radicchio salad dressed with a sweet port-wine vinaigrette and garnished withpear slices poached in port.

k Enhance flavor with a little freshly ground pepper added at the last minute. Fine-dining restaurantsmaintain the custom of sending a peppermill to the table when the salad course is served. Althoughblack pepper is traditionally served, white pepper is an interesting alternative that works well withsome greens.

k Salads must be served on cool plates. Because restaurant kitchens are often warm, most operationskeep salad plates chilled during service. Chilled plates acquire a film of condensation when moved tothe warm air, so be careful not to leave unsightly fingerprints in the condensation on the plate rims.

k Plan your salad in the context of the meal in which it will be served. A simple or tossed salad must com-plement the menu’s cuisine style. If served as part of a set menu, the salad must connect the previouscourse to the one after it. It must not repeat the flavors or ingredients featured in the other courses. Ifwine is an important part of the meal, avoid a vinegar-based dressing; choose one based on mild citrusor verjus instead.


R E C I P E S 69

Family-Style Salad PreparationFeatured in casual restaurants that cater to large parties of guests, family-stylesalads are sent to the table in large bowls with the guests’ chosen dressing in acruet or service boat on the side. Guests serve and dress their own salads.

Banquet-Style Salad PreparationFor both banquet service and in budget and midlevel restaurants, undressed sal-ads are plated and garnished ahead of time. Dressings may be placed in portioncups set on the plates or served separately in cruets or sauceboats. The saladplates are placed on trays, covered with plastic film, and refrigerated until needed.

When setting up plated salads ahead of time, you should avoid adding per-ishable garnishes such as cut tomatoes or onions, as they deteriorate quickly andmay make the other ingredients soggy or give them off-odors. Crisp garnishessuch as bacon or croûtons become soggy in the refrigerator. These types of garnishes should be added just before service.

R E C I P E S

M I X E D G R E E N S A L A D W I T H C L A S S I C F R E N C H V I N A I G R E T T E

A P P E T I Z E R *

Yield:1 portion

Portion size: about 3 oz (90 g)

I N G R E D I E N T S U . S . M E T R I C

Cleaned romaine, torn into bite-sized pieces 1 oz 30 gCleaned leaf lettuce, torn into bite-sized pieces 1 oz 30 gCleaned Boston or Bibb lettuce leaves 1 oz 30 gClassic French Vinaigrette (p. 32), in squeeze bottle 11⁄2 fl oz 45 mLCherry tomato halves 5 pieces 5 pieces

*or served after a main course

P R O C E D U R E

F I N I S H I N G

1. Place the romaine and leaf lettuce in a work bowl.

2. Gently tear the Boston lettuce and add it to the bowl.

3. Squeeze the vinaigrette over the top. Toss to coat the greens with the dressing.

P L AT I N G

4. Mound the greens on a cool 10-in. (25-cm) plate.

5. Arrange the cherry tomato halves around the salad.

V A R I A T I O N S

Any type of sturdy green or mixture of greens may be substituted for the romaine. Garnishoptions include carrot curls and radish flowers.

A Savory Addition

In Europe, the after-entréevinaigrette salad is often serveddirectly onto the dinner platesduring family meals. Diners mixtheir salads with the remainingconcentrated sauce or jus fromthe main course, essentiallyadding glace to the vinaigretteand a savory flavor to the salad.



R O S E T T E S A L A D W I T H L E M O N V I N A I G R E T T E

A P P E T I Z E R *

Portions:1



Whole cleaned Boston lettuce leaves 11⁄2 oz (approx.) 45 gWhole cleaned Bibb lettuce leaves 11⁄2 oz (approx.) 45 gLemon Vinaigrette (p. 34), pushed through a 1 fl oz 30 mL

fine-mesh strainer and placed in a spray bottleMinced chervil 1 tbsp 15 mLMinced lemon zest 1 tsp 5 mL


P R O C E D U R E

F I N I S H I N G

1. Place the lettuce leaves in a work bowl.

2. Spray with vinaigrette on both sides (A).

P L AT I N G

3. Starting with the largest leaves, arrange thelettuce leaves on a cool 10-in. (25-cm) platein an alternating concentric pattern, like thepetals of a rose (B).

4. Spray with a little more vinaigrette.

5. Sprinkle with chervil and lemon zest.

V A R I A T I O N

Tuck a few small leaves of cleaned lolla rossa or baby red-leaf lettuce into the rosette for color.

A

B


R E C I P E S 71

A U T U M N G R E E N S W I T H P O M E G R A N AT E – W A L N U T V I N A I G R E T T E

A P P E T I Z E R

Portions:1



Cleaned baby spinach 1 oz 30 gCleaned radicchio, torn into bite-sized pieces 1⁄2 oz 15 gCleaned heart of curly endive, 1⁄2 oz 15 g

torn into bite-sized piecesCleaned romaine, torn into bite-sized pieces 1 oz 30 gPomegranate-Walnut Vinaigrette (p. 36) 2 fl oz 60 mLToasted walnut pieces 2 tbsp 30 mLPomegranate seeds 1 tbsp 15 mL

P R O C E D U R E

F I N I S H I N G

1. Place the greens in a work bowl.

2. Toss with the vinaigrette.

P L AT I N G

3. Mound the greens on a cool 10-in. (25-cm) plate.

4. Sprinkle with the walnuts and pomegranate seeds.

10-inch round plate

mixed and dressedbaby spinach,

radicchio,curly endive,and romaine

pomegranateseeds

toastedwalnut pieces



S T E A K H O U S E T O S S E D S A L A D W I T H B U T T E R M I L K R A N C H D R E S S I N G

A P P E T I Z E R

Portion:1



Cleaned iceberg lettuce, torn into bite-sized pieces 11⁄2 oz 45 gCleaned romaine, torn into bite-sized pieces 11⁄2 oz 45 gButtermilk Ranch Dressing (p. 45), in squeeze bottle 2 fl oz 60 mLRed onion, separated into rings 1 slice 1 sliceJulienne carrot 2 tbsp 30 mLPeeled cucumber 5 slices 5 slicesRadish, sliced thin 1 1Grape tomato or cherry tomato halves 2 pieces 2 pieces

P R O C E D U R E

F I N I S H I N G


2. Toss with the dressing.

P L AT I N G

3. Mound in an 8-in. (20-cm) salad bowl or on a cool 10-in. (25-cm) plate.

4. Top with the garnish vegetables.

V A R I A T I O N S

Replace the Buttermilk Ranch Dressing with Blue Cheese Dressing (p. 43), Russian Dressing(p. 43), or virtually any other American-style dressing.

GREEK SALADReplace the Buttermilk Ranch Dressing with Lemon Vinaigrette (p. 34); add 3 Kalamataolives, 1 oz (30 g) crumbled feta cheese, and 1 dolma (stuffed grape leaf) to the garnishes.


R E C I P E S 73

S P I N A C H , M U S H R O O M , A N D B A C O NS A L A D W I T H P O P P Y S E E D D R E S S I N G

A P P E T I Z E R

Portions:1



Stemmed, de-veined, and cleaned 2 oz 60 gcurly spinach, torn into bite-sized pieces

Very fresh white mushrooms, sliced thin 1 oz 30 gPoppy Seed Dressing (p. 35), in squeeze bottle 2 fl oz 60 mLRed onion, separated into rings 1 slice 1 sliceCrisp-cooked bacon, crumbled 1⁄3 cup 80 mLGrape tomato or cherry tomato halves 7 pieces 7 pieces

P R O C E D U R E

F I N I S H I N G

1. Place the spinach and mushrooms in a work bowl

2. Squeeze most of the dressing over the top and toss together.

P L AT I N G

3. Mound the salad on a cool 10-in. (25-cm) plate.

4. Top with the garnishes.

5. Squeeze the remaining dressing over the top.

V A R I A T I O N S

Replace the Poppy Seed Dressing with Thick Mustard Vinaigrette (p. 33) or Roquefort Vinaigrette (p. 32).



C O N T E M P O R A R Y C A E S A R S A L A DA P P E T I Z E R

Portion:1



Pale inner romaine leaves, cleaned, 4 oz 120 gtorn into bite-sized pieces

Safe Caesar Dressing (p. 34), in squeeze bottle 2 fl oz 60 mLReggiano Parmesan cheese, in block (optional) 1⁄4 oz 7 gGarlic Croûtons (p. 703) 1⁄2 cup 120 mL

P R O C E D U R E

F I N I S H I N G

1. Place the romaine in a work bowl.

2. Squeeze the dressing over the top.

3. Toss to coat well.

P L AT I N G

4. Mound the salad on a cool 10-in. (25-cm) plate.

5. Optional: Using a cheese plane or a swivel peeler, shave shards ofcheese over the salad.

6. Scatter the croûtons over top.

V A R I A T I O N S

GRILLED CHICKEN CAESAR DINNER SALADDouble the salad ingredients and place on a cool 12-in. (30-cm) plate; seasonand grill a 4-oz (120-g) boneless chicken breast; slice diagonally and fanover the top of the salad.

The History of Caesar Salad

During Prohibition in the United States, wealthy southern Californians frequently traveled south of the border to Tijuana, Mexico, to dine and legally drink alcohol. A popular Tijuana restaurant was owned by an Italian named Caesar Cardini. As the story goes, on the busy July 4, 1924, weekend, Cardini was running low on regular menuitems, so he bluffed his way into culinary history by concocting a “special” tableside salad from hearts of romainelettuce, eggs, and the Italian pantry staples on hand. Thus, Caesar salad was born. Customers were encouraged topick up the long romaine leaves with their fingers to eat them. This only added to the mystique of Caesar’s new salad.

Although Cardini tried to keep his dressing recipe secret, restaurants in Hollywood and throughout Los Angeles soonbegan serving their versions of Caesar salad, most of which included mashed anchovies in the dressing. According toCardini, the original Caesar salad had no anchovies but rather acquired its faint anchovy flavor from Worcestershiresauce. Today the Caesar salad—complete with anchovies—is one of North America’s most popular dishes.


Q U E S T I O N S F O R D I S C U S S I O N 75

S P R I N G G R E E N S W I T H R A S P B E R R I E SA N D R A S P B E R R Y V I N A I G R E T T E

A P P E T I Z E R *

Portions:1



True spring mix, or a combination such as baby 2 to 3 oz 60 to 90 gromaine, baby red leaf, baby oak leaf, baby beetgreens, mâche, young dandelion, and chervil,cleaned if necessary

Raspberry Vinaigrette (p. 36), in squeeze bottle 11⁄2 fl oz 45 mLRaspberries 1 oz 30 g


P R O C E D U R E

F I N I S H I N G


2. Squeeze the vinaigrette over the top

3. Toss gently, adding most of the raspberries once the greens are lightly coated.

P L AT I N G

4. Mound the salad on a cool 10-in. (25-cm) plate. Garnish with the remainingraspberries.

T E R M S F O R R E V I E W

Q U E S T I O N S F O R D I S C U S S I O N

complex saladsimple saladtossed saladsprouts

micro greensbaby greensproprietary

greens mix

mesclunspring mixplucheedible flowers

hydroponics“living” greensturgidrust

boltedgueridon

1. Explain the seasonal nature of salads both inthe past and in the present. List several greensthat might be used in a spring salad, in a sum-mer salad, and in an autumn salad.

2. Explain the difference between a simple saladand a tossed salad.

3. Name the five salad greens flavor groups, andlist three greens that belong to each group.

4. Describe the signs of quality you would look forwhen purchasing salad greens.

5. Name three market forms for salad greens, anddiscuss the advantages and disadvantages of each.

6. Outline the steps that must be followed whenpreparing salad greens, including the two mainmethods of fabrication.

7. List and describe the four methods of saladpreparation, and explain the advantages and disadvantages of each.

8. Discuss the factors you would take into considera-tion when creating your own signature green salad.


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