GANACHES

2

Introduction

Chapter 1

Ganache

3

What is a ganache?

An emulsion

A suspension

Basic ingredients:

Chocolate + liquid (water phase)

A good balance is needed between:

Fat – dry substance - water

4

An optimal result depends on some parameters:

The expected quality of the expected end product

determines the choice of the raw materials.

The expected shelf life in function of the distribution

progress and storage possibilities.

The process possibilities according to the available

equipment.

5

What is a good quality ganache ?

Aroma Texture

Total fat content of about 30-35% of which

• ± 1/3 butterfat (Quantum satis)

• ± 2/3 cocoa butter (Quantum satis)

Water: quantum satis

Light-creamy texture

Dry substance: quantum satis

Binding - body

6

Cocoa butter: minimum 18% -Needed for: stability and

mouth feeling

Total fat: between 30 and 40% -Needed for: elasticity and

mouth feeling Total sugar: between 20 and 75% -Softens the texture -Raises the shelf life Dry substances -Influences the texture, the (cocoa, not solved sugars, fiber) taste -Raises the shelf life -Raises the softness -Shortens the shelf life -Influences the taste Water: maximum 30%

7

Fundamental: Ganache is an emulsion in which very small fat particles

are divided in the water phase.

Clotted ganache: the very small fat particles will be grouped together,

in that way the balance between water and fat surface changes.

Causes:

The balance between:

Fat – dry substance – water > are not in the right combination

One of the ingredients has a too low pH

One of the ingredients is too cold added

Wrong mechanical operation

8

9

Shelf life

Chapter 2

The shelf life of a product is:

The time during which a product, produced under

normal circumstances and stored in relevant

conditions remains suitable for sale and consomption

(without unacceptable microbiological development,

chemical or taste technical differences)

10

Time

Quantity

2.1 Microbiological

2.2 Chemical

2.3 Physical

11

Different decay processes Microbiological

• Humidity in the chocolate Moulds formation

Gasification

Acid

Chemical • Oxidation – Conditions:

Non-saturated fatty acid and oxygen

Light

Metal trace

Heat

Some enzymes

• Hydrolysis (water activity) Similar to oxidation – more microbial than chemical

Physical • Sugarbloom

• Fatbloom

• Fat migration

• Strange odours

• Lost of aroma

12

Depends on:

• Hygiene

• Water activity

• pH

• Ingredients

• Right processing

• Preservation

13

Protect the products against:

• Odours

• Humidity

• Light

• Air

• Unstable temperature

14

Caused by microorganisms

15

moulds yeasts bacteria

• Always present in small amounts in the environment and in food • For a stable product we need:

• Good raw materials • Hygiene • To remove microorganisms • Slow down development

Heat

• Pasteurisation

Shorter shelf life

72°C/15s (161.6°F/15s)

Pathogens – still enzyme activity

• Sterilisation & UHT

Long shelf life

> 120°C/few seconds (> 248°F/few seconds)

Other

• Radiation treatment (X-gamma)

16

Necessary for development:

• Nutrients (sugars, proteins and fats)

• Water

• Temperature

• Environment

To slow down the development:

pH

Conservation agents

Alcohol

Smoking

Atmosphere

17

18

Water

Free / Available Bond

Chemical reactions & Micro-organisms

Aw (0<Aw<1)

Moisture %

19

Aw= Vapour pressure sample

Vapour pressure water ~ ERH

Water activity is a result of:

• Amount of water

• Solids

• Chemical bonds (solution)

• Physical bonds (surface)

• Capillary bonds

(such as sponges, kitchen paper)

Strongly

bonded Less strongly bonded

capillary absorbed water

free water

20

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50

0,0 0,1 0,2 0,3 0,4 0,5 0,6 0,7 0,8 0,9 1,0

Aw

Mo

istu

re

Pseudomonas E. Coli Clostridium perf.

Salmonella

yeasts

Staphylococcus aureus moulds

Halophilic bacterias

Xerophitic moulds

Osmophilic yeasts

Ganache

Butter Cream

Fondant sugar

Marzipan Gianduja

Caramel

No microbiological development Lactobacillus sp.

WATER ACTIVITY

Aw > 0.85: max. 3 weeks

0.85 > Aw > 0.7: max. 3 months

0.7 > Aw > 0.65 6 to 9 months

Aw < 0.60: microbiologically stable

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Indication of shelf life

22

W

811 2 kg

Cream 40

1 kg

Aw= 0,86

W

811 1 kg

Cream 40

1 kg

Aw= 0,93

Decrease moisture level

Or change raw materials (water %): •Cream (60%) •Condensed milk (30%) •Butter (16%) •AMF – Butter oil (<1%)

Attention : TASTE AND TEXTURE MIGHT CHANGE !!!

CHANGING WATER ACTIVITY

23

W (g)

Dark 811 2150

Cream 40 800

Butter 100

Glucose 50

Invertsugar 50

Aw = 0,78

Decrease Aw while maintaining equal moisture level

W (g)

Dark 811 2150

Cream 40 800

Butter 100

Glucose 50

Invertsugar 50

Sorbitol 50

Aw = 0,77

W (g)

Dark 811 2150

Cream 40 800

Butter 100

Glucose 50

Invertsugar 50

Sorbitol 50

Glycerol 50

Aw = 0,70

Ingredients (sweetness): •Glucose sirup •Dextrose (30) •Invertsugar (125) •Fructose (130) •Sorbitol (50)

Attention : TASTE AND TEXTURE MIGHT CHANGE !!!

CHANGING WATER ACTIVITY

Components Aw-

reducing

Antimicr.act

Mono-/di-/polysaccharides

Pentoses, hexoses, sucrose, etc.

XX

Alcohol/polyoles

Ethanol

Sorbitol

Mannitol, xylitol, erythritol

Glycerol

XX

XX

XX

XX

XX

XX

X

Organic acid XX XX

Proteins and derivates

Amino acids, oligopeptide, proteinhydrolytes

XX

24

Aw and antimicrobiological

---------------------------------------

Reducing and antimicrobiological effect from components.

Monosaccharides:

• Glucose

• Fructose

• galactose

Disaccharides: • Saccharose

• Maltose

• Lactose

Oligosaccharides or composite sugars:

Polysaccharides:

• Cellulose

• Starch

Sweetness

Additive Sugar alcohols

Glycerol = 60 - Lactitol = 40

- Maltitol = 90

- Xylitol = 100

25

Saturation point of sucrose/invert sugar solutions

Invertsugar Sucrose Solids

AT

g/100 soln g/100 sol 20°C

100 0 62,5

90 10 64,3

80 20 66,3

70 30 68,8

60 40 71,8

50 50 74,9

40 60 72,8

30 70 71

20 80 69,9

10 90 68,5

0 100 67,5

Dextrose Sucrose % Solids

At 23,5°C

0 100 66,7

10 90 68,1

20 80 71,2

30 70 74,4

40 60 70,3

50 50 65

60 40 60,4

70 30 56,2

80 20 /

90 10 /

100 0 /

Name

Relative

sweetness Structure Speciality

Sucrose 100 Disacharide

Lactose 40 Disacharide

Maltose 50 Disacharide Malt favour

Galactose 60 Mono-sacharide

Dextrose 70 Cool effect

Fructose 140

Lycasine 70 Light bitter

Maltitol 90 Polyoles Cool effect

Lactitol 40 Polyoles Cool effect

Sorbitol 50 Polyoles Cool effect

Isomalt 50 Polyoles

Mannitol 70 Polyoles

Xilitol 100 Polyoles Cool effect

Polydextrose 0 Poly-sacharide sourish

Glusose syrup 74 According to DE

Invertsugar 125 50% dextrose and 50% fructose

Glycerol 60

Maltodextrine 0 volume extension

26

27

21 days

Frozen shelf life

Freeze

Defrost

1 day

Normal shelf life

8 months 20 days

•Decrease storage temperature •Slow down development at lower temperatures

•Freezing •Adapted packing •Adapted procedure

Shelf life in relation to temperature

28

•Cracked pralines caused by gas formation (fermentation)

•When having high sugar levels (Fondant sugar):

Ex: Zygosaccharomyces rouxii

formation of CO2 & Ethanol requires special method to analyse • formation of moulds on the contact surface • sour cream fillings • Pathogens! No taste deviation (f.e. salmonella)

Microbiological decay: examples

29

•Conservation agents (KB 1/03/1998)

•Sorbic acid E200 (fat soluble so less effect)

•Sodium Sorbate E201 (water soluble)

•Potasium Sorbate E202

• Has to be declared on the packaging

•Large range anti-microbiological activities

•Needs lower pH<4,8

•ONLY the undissociated form is active

•Normally addition of acids is needed

•Dosing <2g/kg sorbic acid

•Also benzoate (E210), Na-(E211), K-(E212), Ca-(E212)

Conservation agents

30

•Ethanol

•From fermentation of sugars

•Boiling point 78,3°C

•In vol % (density 0,79kg/l)

•Microbiological growth stopped at 17% alcohol:

Alcohol

Alcvol= Alcvol added x quantity of Liquor

Quantity of liquor + moisture other ingredients >= 17%

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Working methods

Chapter 3

32

OR

Scaling raw materials

Boil the cream eventually with the infusion

Sieve Sieve

Eventually add butter

Callets

Eventually alcohol

Homogenise

Pre-crystallise

Direct application

Slightly warm up UHT cream, maximum 35°C, eventually with infusion (Time!)

Boil UHT cream, eventually with infusion and allow to cool down

Pre-crystallised chocolate

Eventually butter

Eventually alcohol

Homogenise

Direct application

Pre-crystallise

It is definitely important to temper a ganache in order to reach the next grade of quality

• Gloss of glazing ganache

• Consistency of ganache to be cut

• Final consistency that guarantees better resistance to the ganache during shelf life.

• Less release of flavor and taste

• Improved mouthfeel

• Longer shelf life

33

When the ganache has a bad or insufficient pre-crystallisation, the following deficiencies might appear:

• Lack of gloss

• Gray or white discoloration

• Finger sensitive (melts away by touching the product)

• Possible granular structure (pieces of fat)

• Unstable structure that shortens shelf life

• Faster dehydration

• Praline fatbloom will occur faster due to migration of oils

34

35

Homogenise: necessary to obtain as many small equal parts of fat in to the liquid as possible.

Tempering: necessary to start up the ß -end crystallisation

MELTED COCOA BUTTER

SECONDS

MINUTES

HOURS DAYS

WEEKS MONTHS

’

’

VI

28°C 82.4°F

34°C 93.2°F

36°C

96.8°F

16°C 60.8°F

22°C 71.6°F

36

37

60 °C / 140 °F Not higher for milk chocolate and fondant

50 °C / 122 °F Not higher for white chocolate

45 °C / 113 °F Best melting °T

40 °C / 104 °F

FONDANT MILK WHITE

Maximum working °T 34 . 5 °C / 94 °F 32 . 5 °C / 90 °F 30 . 5 °C / 87 °F

Starting °T to work 31 - 32 °C / 88 °F 29 - 30 °C / 85 °F 27 - 28 °C / 81 °F

27 °C / 80 . 5 °F

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Example

A ganache made with:

1 l cream (40%)

2 kg chocolate (36%)

Has a Aw value:

Non crystallised Crystallised Homogenized and pre-crystallised

Aw: 0.843 Aw: 0.828 Aw: 0.820

Ganache feels soft Firm and smooth Quite firm and still smooth

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Formulations

Chapter 4

40

% cocoa butter

1000 g choc. 28%

1000 g cream 35%

* * * * * * *

0,925

1250 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * * * *

0,908

1500 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * *

0,882

1750 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * *

0,860

2000 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* *

0,838

L811

1000 g choc. 36%

1000 g cream 35%

* * * * * * *

0,936

1250 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * * * *

0,921

1500 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * *

0,905

1750 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * *

0,885

2000 g chocolate

1000 g cream

*

0,850

811

1000 g choc. 40%

1000 g cream 35%

* * * * * *

0,940

1250 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * * *

0,928

1500 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * *

0,909

1750 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * *

0,895

2000 g chocolate

1000 g cream

*

0,864

7811

1000 g choc. 40%

1000 g cream 35%

* * * * * *

0,952

1250 g chocolate

1000 g curdled

cream

* * * *

0,952

1500 g chocolate

1000 g curdled

cream

* * * *

0,938

1750 g chocolate

1000 g curdled

cream

* *

0,929

2000 g chocolate

1000 g curdled

cream

*

0,896

70-30-42

*after a

cold

emulsion

= OK

* * * * * * * Too soft, could be in mould but is too difficult to close

* * * * * * Very soft

* * * * * Soft

* * * * Good for moulding praline

* * * Good firmness for piping and cut pralines

* * Is quite firm

* Very firm

41

* * * * * * * Too soft, could be in mould but is too difficult to close

* * * * * * Very soft

* * * * * Soft

* * * * Good for moulding praline

* * * Good firmness for piping and cut pralines

* * Is quite firm

* Very firm

% Milk fat

1000 g choc. 36%

1000 g cream 20%

* * * * * * *

0,949

1250 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * * *

0,941

1500 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * *

0,926

1750 g chocolate

1000 cream

* * * *

0,911

2000 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * *

0,887

811 ! Small ball

1000 g choc. 36%

1000 g cream 35%

* * * * * * *

0,940

1250 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * * *

0,922

1500 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * *

0,907

1750 g chocolate

1000 cream

* * * *

0,886

2000 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * *

0,855

811 !! Light grain

1000 g choc. 36%

1000 g cream 40%

* * * * * * *

0,934

1250 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * * *

0,903

1500 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * * *

0,897

1750 g chocolate

1000 cream

* * *

0,874

2000 g chocolate

1000 g cream

* * *

0,859

811

More cocoa butter → ganache

becomes firm →

Aw value increases.

More milk fat → ganache becomes

softer → Aw value decreases.

42

The more milk fat in the ganache, the lower the melting point of the mixture cocoa butter/milk fat needs to be.

The presence of milk fat, cocoa fat and palm kern, complicates the tempering of the ganache.

• Interference with crystallisation of cocoa butter.

Standard oils such as sunflower, soya, rapeseed and nut oil have a less pronounced effect on the melting behaviour of the cocoa butter.

• They do make the cocoa butter softer, but the oily part in the mixture does not crystallise.

43

44

1000 g cream 800 g cream 800 g cream 800 g cream 800 g cream 800 g cream 800 g cream 800 g cream 800 g cream

2000 g chocolate 2000 g chocolate 2000 g chocolate 2050 g chocolate 2150 g chocolate 2150 g chocolate 2150 g chocolate 2250 g chocolate 2250 g chocolate

100 g butter 100 g butter 100 g butter 100 g butter 100 g butter 100 g butter 100 g butter 150 g butter

50 g glucose 50 g glucose 50 g glucose 50 g glucose 50 g glucose 50 g glucose 50 g glucose

50 g invert sugar 50 g invert sugar 50 g invert sugar 50 g invert sugar 50 g invert sugar 50 g invert sugar

50 g sorbitol 50 g sorbitol 50 g sorbitol 50 g sorbitol

50 g glycerol 50 g glycerol 50 g glycerol

0,859 0,824 0,813 0,778 0,781 0,770 0,699 0,644 0,682

Bad connection between fat – dry ingredients -

water

One of the ingredients has a too low pH

One of the ingredients was too cold when added

Bad mechanical treatment

45

46

A few examples

Chapter 5

800 g cream 200 g butter 800 g chocolate 150 g sorbitol 150 g glucose

47

Aw 0.617

200 g sugar Caramelise

150 g glucose 108°C /

226.4°F

300 g cream Mix and

60 g butter cook till

160 g raspberry puree

30 g sorbitol

200 g white chocolate

48

Aw 0.675 300 g cream 170 g glucose 110 g maltodextrine 40 g butter 40 g glycerol 840 g dark chocolate 170 g milk chocolate

49

50

Liquid fillings

Chapter 6

51

LIQUOR PRALINES

20°C / 68°F 100°C / 212°F During

cooling 20°C / 68°F

100 g / 3 ½ oz W 100 g / 3 ½ oz W 100 g / 3 ½ oz W 100 g / 3 ½ oz W

203 g / 7 ¼ oz S 487 g / 17 ¼ oz S 487 g / 17 ¼ oz S 203 g / 7 ¼ oz S

Saturated Saturated Over saturated Saturated

284 g / 10 oz Too much sugar

A warm saturated sugar solution, cooled down, contains more solved sugar than necessary to be saturated. This is an oversaturated sugar solution. • At 100°C / 212°F – 100 g / 3 ½ oz water is saturated with 487 g / 17 ¼ oz sugar • At 20°C / 68°F – 100 g / 3 ½ oz water is saturated with 203 g / 7 ¼ oz sugar • Cooling → 284 g / 10 oz too much sugar The too many solved sugar will be crystallised after some times.

• Crystallisation will be speeded up by: Adding sugar crystals Stirring Contact with dry object

52

The chocolate shells are moulded and after setting filled with over crystallised liquor syrup.

Light encrusting appears overnight on the edges and surface.

Close the shells.

Recette:

53

Ingredients Preparation

Sugar 1500 g 3 ¼ oz

Water 500 g 17 ½ oz

Glucose 50 g 1 ¾ oz

Optional

Grinded juniper berries 10 g 3 ½ oz

Salt 1 g 1 pincée

Liquor 150 g 5 ¼ oz

Alcohol 150 g 5 ¼ oz

Weight

Boil to 107°C / 224.6°F (77° Brix).

When you boil to higher temperature, more

liquor can be added, making the mixture less

sweet.