G-Shock Hacker's Handbook v0.8

The G-Shock Hacker’s Handbook

i

License

This work is licenced under the Creative Commons Attribution-Non-Commercial-Share Alike 2.0 UK: England & Wales Li-cense. To view a copy of this licence, visit

http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/2.0/uk/

or send a letter to:

Creative Commons,171 Second Street,Suite 300,San Francisco,California 94105,USA.

Version

This is version 0.8 of the book.

Generated: June 21, 2008

Author and Editor

This book was created by Pat Galea.http://dudegalea.co.uk

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Book Information

More information on this book can be found at the bookwebsite.http://gshockbook.co.uk

Disclaimer

The techniques and descriptions in this book are providedfor information and entertainment. No author or anyoneassociated with this book in any way whatsoever takes anyresponsibility for any damage that you might cause to any-thing or anyone.

Use this book at your own risk.

Contributors

Many thanks to all those whose contributions have helpedto create this book.

Brian Green, Buzzbait, Riley, Stan Maynard

Acknowledgements

Watchuseek G-Shock Forum provided the inspiration forthis book.http://forums.watchuseek.com

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Many of the hacks are based on articles from the G-ShockWiki.http://mygshock.com/guide

And of course, thanks to Casio for making those great,rugged G-Shock watches!http://www.gshock.com

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Preface

G-Shocks (or ”G’s” as they are affectionately known) are notjust cheap plastic watches that can survive a world of pain.They are also the stepping stone for a huge range of ex-periments (or ”hacks”). These hacks cover everything fromtweaking the accuracy, to stealthing, dyeing, fitting non-standard bands, and ruggedizing.

The very fact that G’s are relatively cheap watches makesthem ideal for this kind of experimentation. Imagine dye-ing a Rolex just to see what happens, or boiling an Omegacase in a saucepan for twenty minutes because you wantslightly softer buttons. Unthinkable, but these kinds ofactivities are performed every day by G-philes all over theworld.

I decided it was about time to bring these techniques to-gether into one volume, which could be read purely forinterest, but also serve as a great starting point for yourown experiments. Who knows, maybe you’ll be inspiredto try something that will appear in a future edition of thebook!

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vi PREFACE

Good hacking!

Pat Galea, 2008

Contents

Preface v

1 Improve Accuracy 1

2 Negative Display 7

3 Strap Adapters 21

4 Zulu strap on GW-5500 23

A FAQ 29

B ‘Atomic’ G-Shocks 31

C Oscillator 35

D Tools 37

Glossary 41

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viii PREFACE

Colophon 45

1Improve the Accuracy of your G-Shock

G-Shock technical specifications generally state that thetimekeeping accuracy is within ±15 seconds per month.For most people, even a watch at the edge of that bandwill be perfectly acceptable.

However, the technology is capable of much more accuracythan this. The reason why a brand new G isn’t made asaccurate as possible is because it takes either (a) expensivelab equipment, or (b) a lot of time to tweak the timekeeping.Casio is not going to spend that money to get a marginalimprovement that very few people will notice.

Luckily, it is possible to hack the accuracy of your watchwithout buying an electronics lab that would make NASAproud.

Materials required:

1. G-Shock to be adjusted (the “target” watch).

2. Accurate time source (e.g. time.gov or a clock that

1

2 CHAPTER 1. IMPROVE ACCURACY

synchronizes with atomic time).

3. Case opening tools (page 37).

4. Stopwatch (not the G-Shock that is being adjusted).

5. Notepad.

6. Pen.

7. Patience!

Step 1 - Set the target watch time

Set the target watch from an accurate time source (the“base time”). If you are using an atomic clock as yoursource of base time, ensure that the clock has successfullysynchronized within the last twelve hours.

Step 2 - Check the target watch time

You need to check exactly how close the target watch is tothe base time. If you have performed step 1 perfectly, thenyou should find that the target watch time is exactly thesame as the base time. You could just try looking at thetarget watch and the base time simultaneously, but unlessthe time difference is large you probably won’t be able tospot it this way. So here’s a better way to do it.

1. Look at the base time, and start the stopwatch whenthe base time seconds reach 00.

2. Look at the target watch, and stop the stopwatch whenthe target watch seconds reach 05.

If you had set the target watch very carefully from the basetime, the stopwatch should now read exactly 05 seconds.So if there’s any difference from 05 seconds, then the targetwatch is slightly offset from the base time.

3

To get the target watch offset, simply subtract 5 from thestopwatch reading. So:

Offset = Stopwatch reading− 5

For example, if the stopwatch reading is 00:05:20 (i.e. 5seconds and 20/100ths) then you calculate 5.20 − 5 = 0.2.So the target watch is running 0.2 seconds slow.

On the other hand, if the stopwatch reading is 00:04:70 (i.e.4 seconds and 70/100ths) then you calculate 4.70−5 = −0.3.So the target watch is running 0.3 seconds fast.

In your notebook, write down today’s date and the targetwatch offset. (Don’t forget the + or - sign!)

Step 3 - Determine the target watch accuracy

Wait one day, or as near as you can get to 24 hours later.

Repeat step 2.

As the target watch has now been running a day since yousynchronized it, the new target watch offset enables you tocalculate how fast or slow the watch is running.

In your notebook, you’ll now have something like Table 1.1.

Table 1.1: Accuracy chartDay Target Watch Offset (seconds)Monday -0.1Tuesday -0.5

Now subtract the first figure from the second one. In theexample, −0.5 − −0.1 = −0.5 + 0.1 = −0.4. This figure is thenumber of seconds the watch has lost in a day. In thiscase, the figure is negative, so the watch has gained 0.4seconds.


Step 4 - Note the target watch accuracy

Write down the date, time, and how much the target watchgained or lost.

Your notebook will look something like Table 1.2.

Table 1.2: Accuracy chartDay Target Watch Change

OffsetMonday -0.1Tuesday -0.5 -0.4

Step 5 - Adjust the trimmer capacitor

Remove the back cover of the target watch. Find the trim-mer cap (indicated in Fig. 1.1 on the facing page).

The trimmer cap may be in a slightly different location inyour watch. You don’t have to remove the module from thecase in order to get access to the trimmer.

Turn the trimmer cap about 1/32 of a turn in one direction.The precise amount doesn’t matter, but it should be a veryvery slight adjustment. No advice can be given on whichdirection to turn it; depending on the precise position of thetrimmer, clockwise may speed up the watch, or may slow itdown (page 35). Just try clockwise first, and if you findthe change is going the wrong way, next time try counter-clockwise.

Now repeat the whole process from step 1, and keep repeat-ing until you are happy with the accuracy. As the watchgains accuracy, you should make smaller and smaller ad-justments to the trimmer each day. It is very hard to judgethese tiny adjustments until you get more experience, soyou may find that sometimes you have gone a little too far

5

Figure 1.1: Finding the trimmer cap


in one direction. That’s fine; the next day, you can justmake a small tweak to reverse it.

You may find that after a while you have to leave two orthree days in order to detect a difference between the targetwatch and the base time. You might feel that this is a goodtime to stop!

With a lot of patience, and experience, you can end up witha G-Shock that remains accurate to within a second or twoover the course of several months.

Who needs atomic time?

2Convert a DW-5600 to Negative Display

Traditionally, digital watches have used LCDs with blackdigits on a light background. However, in the last few yearsit has become popular to produce “negative display” ver-sions which use light digits on a black background. On a Gwith a stealthed black case, a negative display can add a lotto the overall effect (i.e. significantly reducing the numberof reflected photons!).

The technique presented here for inverting the display of aDW-5600 can be applied to other G’s using some creativ-ity.

Materials required (see Fig. 2.1 on the next page):

1. Sheet of polarizing film.

2. Plastic tweezers.

3. Spring bar removal tool.

4. Small flat head screwdriver.

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8 CHAPTER 2. NEGATIVE DISPLAY

5. Some Q-Tips.

6. A surgical scalpel or sharp modeling knife and freshblades.

7. A Husky mini screwdriver.

Figure 2.1: Tools required

The watch used as an example for this hack is the DW-5600, with a stealthed bezel (see Fig. 2.2 on the facingpage).

Step 1 - Get started

Take off the straps. (You’ll want them out of the way whenyou remove the back cover. It will also make it easier towork on the watch body if they’ve been removed.) Use thespring bar tool to remove the spring bars holding the strapsto the case (see Fig. 2.3 on the next page).

Step 2 - Remove the case back and module

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Figure 2.2: Stealthed bezel

Figure 2.3: Removing spring bars


Carefully remove the four small screws that hold on thecase back (see Fig. 2.4). The Husky mini screwdriver comesin handy for this. Make sure you store the screws some-where safe and keep them together.

Figure 2.4: Removing case screws

Remove the metal case back carefully, trying not to disturbthe rubber gasket that creates the watertight seal aroundthe module (see Fig. 2.5 on the next page).

You should see the rubber spacer that covers and adds pro-tection to the inner module. Remove the rubber spacer us-ing the tweezers for extra grip (see Fig. 2.6 on the facingpage). It can sometimes feel as if it is actually stuck to themodule, but it isn’t; it just gets pressed tightly and sticks abit. A gentle pull with the tweezers should remove it.

Now lift out the entire module by one of its edges using yourtweezers. Be patient; there’s nothing holding the module inother than the pressure of the buttons against the spring

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Figure 2.5: Removing metal case back

Figure 2.6: Removing rubber spacer


contacts. If you turn the watch upside down, it might justfall out on its own! It’s much better if you remove it carefullyrather than allowing gravity to do the job for you.

Figure 2.7: Module removed from case

Step 3 - Remove the original polarizing film

The next step is to remove the polarizing film that is gluedto the surface of the glass. The film is slightly smaller thanthe glass and can be seen easily if you look closely. Use thescalpel to gently lift up the polarizing film a bit at a time.The trick is to slide the blade between the polarizing filmand the glass (see Fig. 2.8 on the next page).

Take your time and work from one edge of the polariz-ing film across to the other, slowly pushing the blade ofyour knife under more and more while still moving it fromside to side. Eventually you will have the blade under farenough to lift off the polarizing film (see Fig. 2.9 on the fac-ing page).

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Figure 2.8: Starting to remove polarizing film

Figure 2.9: Removing polarizing film


The film is stuck to the glass by a thin layer of tacky glue.It’s pretty nasty stuff so be patient and it will come up even-tually. Lift off the polarizing film using your plastic tweez-ers (see Fig. 2.10). You can see that the film looks almosttransparent while over the display and the digits are onlyvisible on the parts of the display that are covered by thefilm. Amazing!

Figure 2.10: Polarizing film removed

This is the really cool part. Simply turn the polarizing filmaround 90 degrees and as if by magic the digital displaybecomes reversed! (See Fig. 2.11 on the facing page.) You’renot finished yet, because you need a piece of polarizing filmof the right shape to install permanently.

Use the Q-Tips and some Goof Off to clean the tacky glueresidue from the glass and the old piece of polarizing film.Make sure you get the glass as ‘squeaky’ clean as you can.It can take several Q-Tips and about 15 minutes to get

15

Figure 2.11: Reversed display

it perfectly clean. The time you spend getting the glueoff as much as possible will be worth it. If there is anyglue residue left on the glass it will show up when youstick on the new piece of polarizing film and you don’t wantthat.

Step 4 - Install the new polarizing film

Take a look at the digital module display using the newsheet of polarizing film. Fig. 2.12 on the next page showsthe display with the film held in the regular position. Thedisplay is postitive, and you can see the module is still tick-ing away quite happily.

Rotate the polarizing film 90 degrees just like you did withthe piece that was removed from the glass, and you can seethat the display is reversed (see Fig. 2.13 on the followingpage).


Figure 2.12: New polarizing film in regular position

Figure 2.13: New polarizing film in inverse position

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Now cut out a piece of the new polarizing film to the exactshape of the original piece. Make sure that you are cut-ting out the film with it turned in the right direction. Makedoubly sure you have the film oriented so that it will makethe display look reversed before you place the old piece ontop as a cutting guide. Hint: you can tell when the twopieces are the right way round because the original piecethat you are using as a cutting template should look com-pletely black (see Fig. 2.14). Notice in the picture that thedisplay is invisible without the polarizing film.

Hold the original piece of film tightly up to the corner ofthe new sheet and gently cut around it using your sharpknife. Make several slices using medium pressure ratherthan trying to cut all the way through on the first pass. Bymaking several slices you will avoid slipping and hopefullyavoid the loss of any finger tips! Just take your time.

Figure 2.14: Cutting the polarizing film


Once you have cut out the new piece of polarizing film, holdit over the display to make sure that it fits and that it willcreate the desired negative effect. The film used in thisexample is self-adhesive on one side and has a protectivecover on the other. Remove the cover from the self adhe-sive side and—without touching it—carefully place the newpiece of polarizing film onto the glass screen (see Fig. 2.15).Use your tweezers for better precision. Gently rub the po-larizing film with a soft cloth or clean Q-Tip to make sureit is adequately stuck down. Then use your tweezers againto lift off the protective cover from the front of the film. Youshould be left with a surface free of smudges and finger-prints.

Figure 2.15: Placing the polarizing film

Step 5 - Put it all back together

The final step is to reassemble the whole thing. Carefullyput the whole module back into the watch casing making

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sure it it seated down. You’ll probably need to use yourtiny screwdriver to hold in the metal connectors where thebuttons are in order to get the module back in. Replacethe rubber spacer making sure that the protruding metalcontacts poke through. Then replace the metal case backand four screws.

When the case back is firmly screwed down, flip the wholething over and admire your handywork: a beautiful nega-tive display module! (See Fig. 2.16.) Notice how the smallbox in the upper right corner of the display is no longer vis-ible. This is one difference between the DIY reverse displayand a factory version.

Figure 2.16: The finished item!


Figure 2.17: Before and after

3Use a Zulu strap with Strap Adapters

Many G’s come with a resin strap. However, some peopledon’t get on too well with resin for various reasons. Themost common is that resin can get a bit uncomfortable inhot weather when the strap is tightly fastened.

Strap adapters are available for a number of G’s which at-tach to the watch in place of the resin strap. You can thenuse a Zulu∗ strap instead.

TBD

∗When you can use a Zulu strap, you can often use a NATO strapinstead. The difference is not relevant to this article, so I refer to ‘Zulu’throughout.

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22 CHAPTER 3. STRAP ADAPTERS

Figure 3.1: Strap Adapter

4Put a Zulu strap on a GW-5500

The GW-5500 is a great looking resin G. Part of the aes-thetic appeal is that the resin strap is neatly integrated withthe bezel itself, presenting an almost seamless transitionfrom case to strap.

Unfortunately, this integration makes it quite hard to usethe strap adapters (see Chapter 3). While it is perfectlypossible to remove the strap and insert the adapters, if youdo that you’ll find that the bezel is no longer firmly held tothe watch body, and can in fact be ripped off with quite agentle tug.

It is possible to fit the strap adapters to the GW-5500 whilekeeping the bezel secure. However, it does require the de-struction of a perfectly good resin strap, so do not attemptthis hack unless you are absolutely certain you want todo this and you’re sure you have the skill to do it, oryou have a spare resin strap that you don’t mind de-stroying.

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24 CHAPTER 4. ZULU STRAP ON GW-5500

Familiarize yourself with the “Strap Adapter” hack (Chapter3), as that hack is a subset of this one.

Materials required:

1. Spring bar removal tool.

2. A surgical scalpel or sharp modeling knife and freshblades.

3. A Husky mini screwdriver.

Step 1 - Remove the resin strap

Unscrew the four screws attaching the strap to the watchcase (Figure 4.1 on the facing page).

Now remove both pieces of the resin strap from the watchusing the spring bar removal tool.

Step 2 - Create some lugs

Figure 4.1 on the next page shows the bits of the strap thatsecure the bezel to the case. The red line indicates the piecethat you need to remove.

Using the scalpel, cut the four lugs from the ends of thestraps. Be generous! At this stage, you want to err onthe side of leaving too much material on the lug. You canalways trim it back later if necessary.

Make a note of which lug goes into which corner of thewatch. Once they have been removed, it can be quite hardto work out which piece is which.

Figure 4.2 on page 26 shows the lugs when they have beenremoved.

Step 3 - Attach the strap adapters

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Figure 4.1: GW-5500 Integrated strap


Figure 4.2: Lugs removed from strap

27

Use the same procedure as described in Chapter 3. Be pa-tient! It is quite tricky at first to get them in place with thespring bar secured.

Step 4 - Attach the lugs

Take the four lugs you brutally severed from the strap ear-lier, and use them to attach the bezel securely to the caseusing the screws.

Step 5 - Attach the Zulu strap

This is the easy part! Just thread your Zulu strap throughthe strap adapters.

The finished item is shown in Figure 4.3.

Figure 4.3: GW-5500 on Zulu strap


AFrequently Asked Questions

Q. Where can I find the Watchuseek G-Shock forum?

A. http://forums.watchuseek.com

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30 APPENDIX A. FAQ

B‘Atomic’ G-Shocks

The “Atomic” G-Shock watches maintain superb accuracyover extended periods, and can even change to and fromDaylight Saving Time on the correct day. The moniker“Atomic” is a bit misleading, as the atomic clock itself is ac-tually located in a building some distance from the watch.However, it is a useful shorthand which is used by G-philes,and so is used in this book too.

The atomic clock itself is a masterpiece of precision. Ratherthan relying upon the tolerance of a human-made devicesuch as a pendulum, with all its inherent imperfections,the atomic clock exploits a fundamental physical propertyof matter. The property chosen by physicists is the fre-quency of radiation emitted by cesium atoms in a particularstate.∗

The frequency of the radiation is used as the raw timekeep-ing source of the clock, exactly as a pendulum is used in an

∗See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atomic clock

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32 APPENDIX B. ‘ATOMIC’ G-SHOCKS

old mechanical clock, or a quartz crystal in a digital watch.(See Appendix C on page 35.)

This extremely accurate time signal is then turned into adigital code which is broadcast from a radio transmitter.It is this code that is picked up by your atomic G, whichenables the watch to set itself to the correct time.

There are several of these atomic clock transmitters aroundthe world (see Table B.1). Some G’s can use as many as fiveor six of these signals.

Table B.1: Atomic Clock SignalsLocation Frequency CallsignUSA (Fort Collins, CO) 60kHz WWVBUnited Kingdom (Anthorn) 60kHz MSFGermany (Mainflingen) 77.5kHz DCF77Japan (Fukushima) 40kHz JJYJapan (Kyushu Island) 60kHz JJYChina (Xi’an) 2.5/5/10/15MHz BPM

Note that these signals generally use different protocols.† Ifyou have a watch that can use the WWVB signal in the USA,then it can receive the MSF signal in the UK, but it can notunderstand it unless it has been explicitly designed to do so.It’s the same as taking a radio receiver from one country toanother; you may be able to receive a radio broadcast, butunless you have been taught the language in that countryyou won’t know what is being said.

That said, many “Multi-Band” G’s are designed to receiveand use more than one signal. They generally do this byreferring to the ‘home city’ that the user of the watch sets.If you set your home city to New York City, then it will try to

†A ‘protocol’ is the electronic version of a language.

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sync with WWVB. If you set your home city to Tokyo, thenit will try to sync with JJY.

In addition, some of these signals are physically close toeach other, so multi-band G’s can try two different signals.If your home city is London, the watch will try to sync withMSF first. If that fails, then it will try to sync with DCF77in Germany. If your home city is Berlin, it will try DCF77first, then MSF. If your home city is Tokyo, it will try boththe JJY signals.

The maximum range of reception of the signal varies. Thesetransmitters have different power outputs, and local condi-tions can have an impact on reception.

Signal reception is generally much better at night than inthe day. That’s why the watch tries to sync overnight, whena successful sync is more likely. The reason for this noc-turnal improvement is the behavior of the ionosphere‡, theuppermost layer of the atmosphere.

During the day, the ionosphere is ionized by solar radiation.At night, this ionized layer becomes a very effective radiomirror, allowing radio signals to bounce back to Earth. Thisis the reason why you can listen to shortwave radio stationsfrom distant countries at night, even though they cannotbe heard in the day. The radio signals can even bounce be-tween the Earth and the ionosphere several times, allowingthe signal to propagate thousands of miles. If it weren’t forthis bounce (or ‘DX’ as it is known in radio circles), then thesignal would be severely limited in range.

This means that increased solar radiation results in bet-ter signal propagation (and thus increased maximum syncrange for G’s). The sun does in fact go through an ap-

‡See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ionosphere

34 APPENDIX B. ‘ATOMIC’ G-SHOCKS

proximately 11-year cycle of radiation output, known asthe “sunspot cycle”§ (because the greater the number ofsunspots, the higher the radiation).

2008 is at the end of cycle 23 (numbering began in the 18thcentury), so is just about the worst time for radio propaga-tion. As the sunspot count increases in cycle 24, the maxi-mum sync range should likewise increase, reaching a max-imum in 2013 or 2014. If you want to try for the sync rangerecord, those are the years to make your attempt! Thenthe sunspots should start to decrease again, with cycle 24ending in around 2019.

Even at sunspot minimum, some impressive ranges arepossible. The Japanese signal JJY can be successfully re-ceived in Brisbane and Sydney, Australia, even though theyare outside the official range of the signal. Unfortunately,atomic G’s have a pre-set list of signals that ‘can’ be re-ceived in the different locations, and Casio has decided thatthere is no available signal in Australia. So if you set yourhome city to Sydney, the G will not even try to sync.

Oz G-philes get around this problem by setting their homecity to Tokyo overnight, allowing the G to sync, then reset-ting the home city to Sydney the next morning.

§See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunspot cycle

CHow the Oscillator Works

TBD This chapter will explain how the quartz crystal os-cillator on the watch determines the timekeeping, and howadjusting the trimmer cap can change this.

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36 APPENDIX C. OSCILLATOR

DG-Shock Hacking Tools

When hacking your G, you could use the tools that youhappen to have lying around on your bench. However, youcould cause a lot of damage to the watch if the tool isn’tparticularly well-suited to the task at hand.

There are specialized tools that are designed for use onwatches. It is always best to use these tools if you can.

Phillips screwdriver

Most sets of small precision screwdrivers will include a cross-head (or ‘Phillips’) that will work on the screws in a G. Don’tbe tempted to use a slotted screwdriver in a cross-headscrew.∗ You may damage the screw beyond repair.

Spring bar removal tool

Spring bars hold the watch band to the case. It is possi-ble to use a small flat-head screwdriver to remove them,

∗Screw types can be found at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw

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38 APPENDIX D. TOOLS

Figure D.1: Phillips Screwdriver

but it can be very fiddly to do so, and it also increases thechances that you’ll damage the case, the band, or the springbar.

It is best to use a proper spring bar removal tool (see Fig. D.2on the facing page, the Bergeon No. 6767F).

Screwback Case Opener

Don’t be tempted to open a screwback case using a pair ofneedlenose pliers! You can easily scratch or damage thecase.

Use a proper screwback case opener tool. Some variationshave two adjustable pins, but the better versions have three(like the one shown in Fig. D.3 on the next page).

Silicone Grease

Use silicone grease on the rubber gasket before sealing thewatch back up after you have been working on it. This willprolong the life of the gasket, and help to keep the watchwater-proof.

39

Figure D.2: Spring Bar Tool

Figure D.3: Screwback Case Opener

40 APPENDIX D. TOOLS

Silicone grease is also known as ‘dielectric grease’, and youcan find it at auto supply shops.

Scratch Removal Product

These products can be used to remove some minor scratchesin G face crystals.

‘Polywatch’ is one such product, and ‘Brasso’ has been rec-ommended for polishing the crystal.

Glossary

G = G-Shock watch.

G’s = G-Shock watches (and before the apostrophe pedantscomplain that plurals are not formed that way, I’m using“G’s” as an abbreviation of “G-Shocks”, so the apostropheis covering the missing letters).

G-phile = A lover of G-Shock watches.

WIS = Watch Idiot-Savant. “A WIS is someone who can be sodistracted by his watch that he fails to note the time.”†

†Paul Schliesser

41

Index

accuracy, 31atomic, 31

clockBPM, 32DCF77, 32JJY, 32MSF, 32WWVB, 32

misleading term, 31multi-band, 32range, 33, 34

Australia hack, 34record attempt, 34

Brasso, 40

cesium, 31

Daylight Saving Time, 31dielectric grease, 40

disclaimer, iidisplay

negative, 7positive, 7

DW-5600, 8

expensive watchinsane treatment of, v

experience, 6

face, 40

gasket, 10, 38geek, viGoof Off, 14gravity, 12GW-5500, 23

home city, 32

injury

42

INDEX 43

avoidance of, 17ionosphere, 33

oscillator, 35

patience, 2, 6, 17polarizing film, 12Polywatch, 40protocol, 32

Q-Tip, 14quartz crystal, 35

radioDX, 33

scalpel, 12scratch remover, 40screwback case

opener tool, 38screwdriver, 10

Phillips, 37silicone grease, 38solar radiation, 33spacer, 10spring bar, 8

removal tool, 37strap

comfort, 21NATO, 21removal, 8Zulu, 21, 27

strap adapters, 21sunspot cycle, 34

technical specifications, 1

timekeeping, 1, 35trimmer cap, 5, 35

44 INDEX

Colophon

This book was typeset using the TeXShop implementationof LATEX.

The typeface is Bookman, 11pt.

45

Documents

G-Shock Hacker's Handbook v0.8