G o l d f i e l d sland of s u r p r i s e s

Spanning more than 77 million hectares, theGoldfields is a striking contrast of landscapes.It is a place where deserts spawn elegantwildflowers, a harsh land that surprises thevisitor with acacia and eucalypt trees, an aridcountry that bursts into colour after a sudden‘wet’.

In the middle of flat expanses of land, thevisitor may come upon granite outcrops, saltlakes and spectacular ‘breakaways’ – inlandcliffs that have been ‘broken away’ by windand water erosion.

The Tropic of Capricorn is the northernboundary of the Department of Conservationand Land Management’s (CALM’s) GoldfieldsRegion.

The Goldfields Region covers nearly one-thirdof WA, extending eastwards from the edge ofthe Wheatbelt, through eucalypt and mulgawoodlands to the Nullarbor Plain, the Gibsonand Great Victoria Deserts.

CALM is responsible for conservation andreserve management, flora and faunamanagement, fire control, feral animal control,flora and fauna industry regulation, reservemanagement, and rare plant and animalresearch and management.

It’s also responsible for the construction andmaintenance of recreation sites in the nationalparks, conservation reserves and naturereserves.

CALM also has a management role onUnallocated Crown Land (UCL) throughout theregion and has bought pastoral leases for inclusionin the State’s conservation re s e rve system.

Aboriginal people and CALM share aparticular interest in land management andcooperative and joint management ofconservation reserves. Aboriginal traditionalknowledge continues to play a critical role inland management and in understandingrecent changes in the ecology of animalsinhabiting the deserts.

This is a fascinating land, with a rich historyfrom traditional and ongoing Aboriginalculture through to contemporary European

history and land uses, that began with thegold rushes of the late nineteenth century.

Visitors are likely to find a diversity of plantlife ranging from desert oaks to mulga andspinifex, ‘built’ heritage of disused narrowgauge railway lines, drovers’ and camel tracks,abandoned mining settlements, camps, wellsforsaken gold mines, graves and much, muchmore.

The diversity of animals, plants and landformson a natural backdrop of sand, ochre rock andblue sky will make the Goldfields experiencean exhilarating trip through Aboriginal,European and natural history.

The woodline track between Burra Rock and Cave Hill, near 85 mile dams. Photo – Barry Hooper

LEFT The thorny devil (Moloch horridus) whichabounds in the Goldfields.Photo – Brett Lewis

ABOVE The Goldfields is full of surprises such asthis tranquil pool at Sydney Heads at Earaheedy.

W h e re to find us. . .CALM Goldfields Regional Off i c ePost Office Public BuildingsHannan StreetKalgoorlie WA 6430PH: (08) 90212677

CALM Head OfficeTechnology ParkWestern Precinct17 Dick Perry AvenueKensington WA 6151PH: (08) 93340333

Western Australia’sGoldfields and desertsa re places of surprisingcontrasts, where firstimpressions can bedeceptive.

G o l d f i e l d sland of surprises

Nowhere else in the world are there somany different tall trees in a similar aridclimate.

The eucalypt woodlands and forests of thearid and semi-arid eastern Goldfields are tall,vigorous and varied. They include the 25metre salmon gum, the bronze-barked gimletand the various blackbutts – a surprisingsight in the drier inland.

There are about 50 different eucalypt speciesin the Kalgoorlie area, with 14 occurringbetween Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie. Uniqueand exceptionally well adapted, theseGoldfields eucalypts thrive where annualrainfall is from 150 mm to 300 mm andtemperatures range from -3°C to 45°C.

It comes as a surprise to many people tolearn that much of today’s inland eucalyptwoodland, within 100 km of the main town ofKalgoorlie-Boulder, is regrowth dating back40 to 100 years, and is the result of clear-felling carried out by the pioneers to supplyfuel to the industries of the Goldfields. Woodwas the primary fuel source and needed tofuel the mining industry boilers, for cookingand heating, to power the pumping stationsthat brought water along the pipeline from

Mundaring, near Perth, and to generateelectricity.

Timber was also used in the gold-miningindustry to support hundreds of kilometres ofunderground shafts and to fuel the boilers toproduce steam for winders that hauled ore tothe surface.

About three million hectares of Goldfieldseucalypt woodland were clear-felled from the1890s to the 1950s and the timber was hauledin from the bush on narrow-gauge railwayscalled ‘woodlines’. About 30 million tonneswere harvested at an average rate of 10tonnes per hectare.

The trees regenerated prolifically. Maturetrees drop seed each year, but also retain inthe crown other seeds in varying stages ofmaturity. When seeds drop, they germinatebest in ‘disturbed’ soil. For example, whenfire sweeps through the woodland, seedcasings dry out and seeds fall, germinating inthe loosened top soil.

North of Kalgoorlie-Boulder, visitors will noticea change in vegetation as the eucalypt woodlandis replaced by low acacia woodland.

Much of the change occurs between Broad Arrow andMenzies. This vegetation change coincides with thetransition from the eucalypt dominated Coolgard i eb i o region to the acacia-dominated Murc h i s o nb i o re g i o n .

The Murchison bioregion's acacia woodland isdominated by mulga (Acacia aneura), growing as a lowwoodland. It is the dominant vegetation of the nort h -e a s t e rn Goldfields and Australia’s interior. Mulga, takesmany forms: narrow leaves, broad leaves, a weepingappearance and even horizontal branching (pinemulga) all adding to a rich vegetation diversity.

CALM takes an active interest in the management andc o n s e rvation of acacia woodlands. They are extre m e l ywell adapted to the arid environment, but conflictingland uses and threatening process can impact severe l yon the woodland. Major changes to road draining cancause large areas to degrade or die, too frequent fire scan kill mulga and pastoral and mining activities canhave an impact. All these impacts must be managedc a re f u l l y.

CALM manages several conservation re s e rves in themulga areas. These include Goongarrie National Parkand the adjacent former Goongarrie pastoral lease,Wa n j a rri Nature Reserve in the nort h - e a s t e rnGoldfields, the former Mt Elvire, Lake Mason, BlackRange, Earaheedy and Lorna Glen Stations and part sof Kaluwiri, Cashmere Downs and Bulga Downspastoral leases, all proposed conservation re s e rv e s .

Tall trees in an arid land

The Goldfields outback is an exciting placeto explore.

Recently developed drive trails such as theGolden Quest Discovery Trail, Holland Trackand Golden Pipeline Trail, along with thetraditional outback ‘highways’, stock routesand four-wheel-drive bush tracks, cater for anew wave of outback travel, exploration andadventure.

Bitumen-road access is limited to arterialroutes linking the main towns. The other mainroads are unsealed, but are generally usableby two-wheel-drive vehicles in dry weather.

Local government authorities close manyunsealed roads in wet weather. When thisoccurs, stay on sealed roads even if you have afour-wheel-drive vehicle. To do otherwisewould certainly damage the roads andpossibly leave you stranded. A few days' fine

weather invariably dries out the roads,allowing normal access to resume.

Before setting out on your trip, there arecertain precautions that you should take.

Not all roads marked on maps are for publicuse. Many are for access to Aboriginal

communities, pastoral stations or miningleases only. Contact the community or landmanager to get permission or permits to use

them. Permission is often also needed to campon these managed lands.

Pets should not be taken onto pastoral stationswithout the owner’s consent. Pets are not

permitted on CALM–managed conservationreserves, with the exception of the KalgoorlieArboretum.

When travelling in the Goldfields it is wise tocarry extra fuel and water because of the vastdistances involved. If you are heading into

remote areas let someone know where you aregoing, when you expect to arrive at yourdestination and again when you arrive.

If you break down or run out of fuel, stay withyour vehicle until help arrives (unless it ispossible to walk back to a town or homestead

you have just passed). Never walk ahead to aplace marked on your map, as it may belong abandoned.

Collection of firewood is not permitted andrubbish collection services are not provided at

many CALM-managed conservation reserves.Please keep an eye out for firewood en routeto your destination – and please take yourlitter home.

Travelling in the Goldfields

Managing Editor: Sue McKenna

Coordinating Editor: Barry Hooper

Design and Production:Gooitzen van der Meer

Published by the Department ofConservation and Land Management2005

2

Regrowth woodland of ribbon-barked gum andredwood. Photo – Ian Kealley

Desert oaks make a spectacular sight south of theClutterbucks in the Gibson Desert. Photo – Ian Kealley

Sydney Heads, Earaheedy. Photo – Ian Kealley

North to the mulga

The sheep have long gone, but theproposed conservation reserve at theformer Jaurdi Station is still a hive ofactivity.

As the crow flies, the former pastoral station islocated 130 km (175 km by road) west ofKalgoorlie-Boulder north of the highway andrailway line. It was bought by CALM in 1989 toc reate a conservation re s e rv e .

J a u rdi boasts a number of rare flora species,m o re than 100 bird species, nine native mammalspecies, more than 36 reptile species and twof rog species. These are found on a variety ofl a n d f o rms and vegetation types includingsandplains, granite rocks, banded ironstone hills,salt lakes, eucalypt woodland and acaciat h i c k e t s .

Notable animals include the malleefowl, a larg eb i rd that builds distinctive nests that comprise al a rge mound of soil covering a core of leaf litter.These nest mounds can span more than fivem e t res, be more than a metre high and are

s c a t t e red throughout the station. Nestp reparation begins in autumn and the maletends the nest through summer untilt e m p e r a t u res begin to fall. The female spendsmost of her time looking for food to meet themetabolic demands of egg pro d u c t i o n .Malleefowl are omnivorous and will eatwhatever food is seasonally available. Althoughthey will drink if water is available, theyn o rmally live without it.

On the breakaways north of the homestead isthe easternmost re c o rded location of the inlandwandoo (Eucalyptus capillosa) .

Passing through the area is the old GoldfieldsStage Route from Southern Cross toG o o n g a rrie, now a rough four wheel drive track.It follows a series of rocks from Darrine to 71Mile Rock where old tin-covered and ro c k - l i n e dsoaks and wells receive their water as ru n - o fff rom adjoining granite rocks. Legible graffiti onthe lid of one of these soaks dates back to 1939.

The remnants of two old graves can also befound along this route. The grave north ofD a rrine and the Perth to Kalgoorlie-Boulderrailway is barely recognisable but is thought tobelong to an Afghan camel driver, while theo t h e r, near Wallangie (or Deadman’s) Rock, hasan inscribed brass plate and belongs to an oldp ro s p e c t o r.

Woodline timber cutting occurred at Jaurdi fro m1910-20 to supply the Kalgoorlie mines with fuelfor boilers, power generation and timber formine shafts. A number of woodline spur lines

o ff a main woodline that ran from Kurr a w a n gvia Wa l l a roo Rock can be found. There areseveral old mines as well as active mining andexploration operations. Care should be taken asu n s e c u red shafts and dangerous excavations stillexist. Mining lease rights still apply to thesep rospects, so nothing should be disturbed inthese areas, including old infrastru c t u re ,materials, soil or stone.

G o l d f i e l d sland of surprises3

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Jaurdi

• Where is it? 175 km west of Kalgoorlie via the GreatEastern Highway and Ryan’s Find or by Mt Waltonroad.

• Travelling time: Three hours from Kalgoorlie. Accessto, and travel within, Jaurdi Station is on unformed,unsealed tracks with tight corners. Sections of trackscan be impassable in wet weather. Please drive slowlyand cautiously and watch for other traffic. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are recommended, in dry weather only.

• Facilities: The homestead, just north of the railway,has basic accommodation, a water supply, a shower,toilet, pot-belly stove, cooking facilities, tables,barbecue, rain and dam water tanks, shearers’ quartersand a shearing shed. Camping fees apply and bookingscan be made through the CALM Kalgoorlie Office.

• What to do: Sightseeing, walking, photography,nature study, camping, environmental education,4WD trips, yabbies in the dams.

A malleefowl on its nest, which you may see at Jaudi.Photo – Babs and Bert Wells/CALM

Jaurdi boastsrare species

G o o n g a rrie is in the transition zone betweenthe Coolgardie and Murchison biogeographicre g i o n s .

In 1995 the 100,686 ha Goongarrie Station –taken up to run sheep in 1924 but never fullydeveloped because of difficulty in establishingwater points – was purchased by CALM toexpand existing conservation reserves.

Goongarrie is 90 km north of Kalgoorlie-Boulder and a popular camping destination.

This is the region where semi-arid and aridcountry converge, giving visitors the chanceto see eucalypt-dominated woodlands fromthe semi-arid zone in the south become alandscape dominated by mulga trees from thearid zone in the north and east. As aconsequence of this vegetation change,Goongarrie has rich and diverse plant andanimal life.

It is biologically significant because manyspecies occur here, associated with geologicalfeatures and land systems, such as granitesheets, breakaways, greenstone hills, sanddunes and salt lakes.

The desert grass tree (Xanthorrhoeathorntonii), near the Adelong Dunes to thenorth of Goongarrie Station, is one of manyinteresting plants to be found. Other uniquespecies include the locally endemic Jutson'smallee (Eucalyptus jutsonii) and priorityspecies such as lamb’s tail (Newcasteliainsignis) and hopbush (Alyxia tetanifolia).

A detailed recent biological survey found 58species of reptiles and amphibians, 21 nativemammals including seven bat species, and atleast 95 bird species. Malleefowl, one of WA’s

threatened bird species, are occasionally seen.

The Goongarrie re s e rves have a rich culturalh i s t o ry with many important Aboriginal sites,including the adjacent Adelong Stationmanaged by the Menzies AboriginalCorporation, rockholes, graves, wateringpoints (Comet-Vale and Deadmans Soak) anda long history of prospecting, mineralexploration and mining.

G o o n g a rrie was the first important gold findafter Coolgardie. First miners named the are aRoaring Gimlet because of the cold south-westerly winds through the gimlet trees. Asthe mining town flourished during the goldrush peak from the 1890s, Goongarrie wasknown as the Ninety-Mile, boasting hotels,bed and breakfasts, a Cobb & Co coach stop,a railway and several stores. At its height thetown had 112 houses. Now, three re m a i n i n ghistorical railway cottages are part of theGolden Quest Heritage Trail.

The Goongarrie homestead complex hasseveral accommodation buildings (ahomestead, sandalwood camp and sheare r s ’cottage) in good working order and makes anideal place to visit and camp either in thet h ree main buildings or outside.

All the buildings have tables, woodbarbecues, water supply, rainwater, showers,some furn i t u reand provisions for electricity(BYO generator).

The facility is an excellent venue for bushworkshops, conferences, meetings or gro u pand school excursions. Camping fees applyand bookings can be made through theCALM Kalgoorlie Off i c e .

G o o n g a rrie: A conservation re s e rve in the transition zone

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Goongarrie area

• W h e re is it? 90 km north of Kalgoorlie. The homesteadis 14 km west of the Goldfields Highway on a dirt roadt u rning off near the Goongarrie railway cottages, ort h e re is access from the North at the old Comet Valesiding following the main track for seven km. Access eastto the Goongarrie National Park is via Pianto Rd,a p p roximately 12 km north of the homestead turn o ff .

• Travelling time: 1 hour from Kalgoorlie

• F a c i l i t i e s : G o o n g a rrie homestead complex hasaccommodation in buildings and full facilities. All thebuildings have tables, wood BBQs, water supply,r a i n w a t e r, showers, some furn i t u re and provisions forelectricity (BYO generator). Camping fees apply andbookings can be made through the CALM KalgoorlieO ff i c e .

• What to do: 4WD trips, touring, history, bush walkingalong a marked five km trail, bird watching, cycling,camping and nature study.

The Goongarrie Homestead. Photo – CALM Goldfields

Travellers to the north-eastern Goldfieldsmay be familiar with Wanjarri NatureReserve north of Leinster, managed byCALM.

CALM has recently acquired additionalpastoral leases as future conservationreserves. These are Lorna Glen and Earaheedy(north-east of Wiluna) Lake Mason, BlackRange and parts of Kaluwiri, Cashmere andBulga Downs in the Sandstone area.

CALM’s aim in buying these stations is toconserve the representative land systems,flora and fauna, and additionally to providefacilities and nature-based tourismopportunities for visitors.

The purchase of the stations as conservationreserves was funded through the NationalReserve System Program of the NaturalHeritage Trust and the Gascoyne-MurchisonStrategy.

Black Range, Lake Mason and other re s e rves inthe Sandstone area are located in the Murc h i s o nB i o region whereas Earaheedy is situated in theGascoyne Bioregion and Lorna Glen on theb o u n d a ry between the two.

North of LeinsterWa n j a rri Nature Reserv e

Located 80 km north of Leinster, the 53,248 haWa n j a rri Nature Reserve is an extremely valuablec o n s e rvation re s e rve in the arid zone. The are awas the former Kathleen Valley Stationp u rchased as a conservation re s e rve in 1971.

Wa n j a rri is essentially a broad flat valley withb reakaways on the east and west margins. Thevegetation consists of mulga communities andspinifex sandplains with dunes and marble gumsin several areas. To the west, the Barr SmithRange from which river gum lined creeks flow, isrich in Aboriginal history and sites.

The surrounding area has a rich mining andpastoral history with the remnants of form e rmining activities obvious at the abandonedKathleen Valley and Sir Samuel towns and mines.Recent gold and nickel mining operationscontinue at Bronzewing and Mt Keith.

Visitors to Wanjarri can experience thehistory, vegetation and landforms of theMurchison bioregion and north-eastGoldfields, part of the unique WA outback.There is a simple camping facility at Wanjarri

around the old shearing shed (the formerKathleen Valley mine assay shed). Campingfees apply and bookings can be made throughthe CALM Kalgoorlie Office.

G o l d f i e l d sl d f surprises4

The western pigmy possum (Cercatetus concinnus).Photo – Mark Cowan

Lake Mason’s breakaways. Photo – Brett Lewis Breakaways and mulga at Lorna Glen. Photo – Ian Kealley

A netted dragon (Ctenophorus nuchalis) atLorna Glen. Photo – Mark Cowan

This Diplodactylus gecko species has no common name. Photo – Mark Cowan

North-eastern Goldfieldsconservation reserves

G o l d f i e l d sland of surprises5G o l d f i e l d sl d f surprises

Lake Mason (149,557 ha), 50 km north ofSandstone, was bought in July 2000.

It has a long and interesting pastoral historyOriginally established in 1906 when it wasknown as ‘Berrigun’, it was later subject tonumerous changes of boundaries and owners.Initially a cattle station, it changed to sheepand wool production for its primary incomefor more than 80 years.

Black Range (79,300 ha), situated 15 km north-west of Sandstone, adjoins Lake Mason andwas purchased by CALM in October 2000. TheKaluwiri north block (103,640 ha) also adjoinsLake Mason along the north boundary andwas purchased in August 2003.

Black Range and Kaluwiri remained larg e l yundeveloped as pastoral leases because most ofthe area was very low pastoral value rangelandof spinifex sandplains and dunes known as the‘ B u l l i m o re’ land system. The remainder is mulgaplains and breakaway are a s .

The land systems of the 332,497 ha reserve arecharacterised by a gently undulatinglandscape dominated by a salt lake system inthe centre with several spectacularbreakaways and low hills in the west andnorth. Ridges of banded ironstone and granitehills feature in the east. The Lake Mason saltlake system with fringing alluvial plains,calcrete, gypsum (kopi) dunes and sandybanks links east-west through the area.

The most common vegetation type is thespinifex sandplains and spinifex dune fields inthe north and north-west section along theNumber One Vermin Proof Fence. Samphireand saltbush lake country and mulga plainsmake up the next two most commonvegetation types, with low acacia shrublandcommon in the hills. One known species ofpriority flora, the Cue grevillea (Grevilliainconspicua) is found on Lake Mason atseveral locations.

A series of systematic biological surveysbegan in September 2004. So far they showthere are at least 60 reptile and 100 birdspecies. Because of the diverse geology andvegetation of the reserves, expectations arethat the flora and fauna diversity will also behigh. Opportunistic survey has already shownthis to be the case, with the diverse bird faunathat will expand when the lake system floodsproviding a significant habitat for waterbirdsand waders.

Facilities for camping and public use arelocated around the Lake Mason homesteadand shearers quarters complex. CALMmaintains these facilities to accommodatevisitors and caretakers, and uses it as a ‘fieldstudy centre’ for visiting staff and the public.Camping fees apply and bookings can bemade through the CALM Kalgoorlie Office.Facilities include buildings for shelter, tables, ashower, toilets and barbecues. Bush campingis permitted throughout the reserves withapproval from the CALM regional office.

N o rth ofS a n d s t o n eLake Mason, Black Range and Kaluwiri

Sunrise at Lake Mason. Photo – Ian Kealley

The rufous treecreeper. Photo – Bill Nelson/Lochman Transparencies

The common brushtail possum was found in the Goldfields before the arrival of the fox.Photo – Jiri Lochman Transparencies

Cashmere and Bulga Downs, Ida Valleyand Mt Forrest

In April and May 2002, as part of avoluntary lease adjustment under theGascoyne Murchison Strategy, CALMbought the undeveloped parts of BulgaDowns (the 83,338 ha western part of theformer Ida Valley lease) and CashmereDowns (80,589 ha) as two separatereserves.

These isolated and remote re s e rves includeexcellent examples of land systems, flora andfauna re p resentative of the area. The re s e rv e scontain a spectacular area of banded iro n s t o n ehills around Ida Valley–Mt Forrest, with naturalsprings. There are extensive areas of granite,b reakaways, spinifex and mallee sandplain. TheC a s h m e re–Bulga block has lake frontage toLake Barlee and Lake Noondie. The mulgawoodlands and other vegetation communitiesa re in excellent condition.

T h e re are several remote historic and culturalsites in the area including Depot Spring wherethe explorer John Forrest camped during hisexpeditions in the early 1900s.

Both areas are remote with limited 4WD-onlyaccess on bush tracks and no facilities.

G o l d f i e l d sland of surprises6

South ofS a n d s t o n e

North of WilunaEaraheedy and Lorna Glen

Earaheedy (321,812 ha) was bought in Marc h1999 and is 180 km north-east of Wiluna. Inthe south-west corner it joins the 245,094 haL o rna Glen re s e rve bought in August 2000,located 150 km north-east of Wiluna.

The two areas were former cattle and sheepstations that now form a large and valuablec o n s e rvation area that will be managed jointlywith Aboriginal traditional owners from Wi l u n a .

Lorna Glen is near the highest part of the WA

inland plateau and is divided by an upland,

which correlates with the boundary between

the Gascoyne and Murchison bioregions.

The diverse landscape has 26 different land

systems including an undulating mix of

sandstone plateaux, stony plains, and dune

and hill systems with large breakaways and

lakes. To the north, in the Gascoyne bioregion,

Earaheedy has deposits of laterite, silcrete and

calcrete occurring on infilled ancient drainage

systems. There are numerous claypans and

lakes in the east and the unique Leeuwin land

system, an ancient drainage channel, in the

west. The Lee-Steere Range runs close to the

north boundary and contains the unique

geological feature of the Sydney Heads

Conglomerate, which is confined to a single

outcrop in the Sydney Heads Pass.

The vegetation on Earaheedy, surrounding theextensive drainage line, salt lake and claypanecosystems, consists of chenopod shrublands,spinifex sandplain, acacia (mainly mulga)woodland and shrubland with scatteredeucalypts.

The vegetation on Lorna Glen station isdominated by extensive spinifex sandplainswith overstoreys of mulga and the majesticmarble gum. A number of stony rises andbreakaway systems, particularly in the north,provide relief from the surrounding subduedtopography and support rich and distinctivevegetation communities of their own.An extensive lake system, Lindsay GordonLagoon, spreads south of the Lorna Glen

Visitors enjoy the view from Mt Forrest. Photo – Ian Kealley

Lorna Glen’s bunkhouse provides a place to relax. Photo – Barry Hooper The desert mouse (Pseudomys desertor). Photo – Mark Cowan

Continued page 7

homestead. Around its perimeter there isexceptional diversity in vegetation with openeucalypt woodlands, isolated spinifex dunes,samphire beds, and dense groves ofmelaleucas and grassy flats.

A biological survey conducted over threeyears in different seasons found more than450 plant species on Lorna Glen. The area isparticularly rich in eremophilas and acacias,as these species are well adapted to the erraticand unreliable rainfall of the region.

Animal life is also abundant and diverse withmore than 76 species of reptiles andamphibians alone! This is one of the richestreptile faunas documented anywhere in theAustralian arid zone. At least 20 mammalspecies also occur, including rarely seenspecies such as the long-tailed dunnart(Sminthopsis longicaudata) and Woolley’s falseantechinus (Pseudantechinus woolleyae). Theregion is rich in bird life, particularly aftersubstantial rain when the lakes and clay panssupport a variety of waterfowl and waders.More than 100 bird species have currentlybeen recorded from the area but the numbermay still increase with further work.

Windstorms caused extensive damage to thehomestead buildings at Earaheedy requiringthem to be demolished leaving just themachinery shed which is available foremergency shelter. Visitors should carry theirown fuel and water.

Nestled among the river gums, the Lorna Glenhomestead is an ideal camping location withsome self-contained bunkhouse accommodationand facilities available. CALM maintains thesefacilities to accommodate caretakers and foruse as a ‘field study centre’ for visiting staffand the public. Camping fees apply. Bushcamping throughout the reserves, withpermission, is allowed.

G o l d f i e l d sland of surprises7

Lorna Glen and Earaheedy

• Where is it? 150-180 km north-east of Wiluna. The Lorna Glenhomestead is 37 km east of the main road.

• Travelling time: 2-3 hours from Wiluna.

• Facilities: Full homestead complex at Lorna Glen (phone 99812986), power, toilets,showers, camping areas, airstrip and caretakers.A basic shed at Earaheedy. Remote, no fuel available. Camping fees apply andbookings can be made through the CALM Kalgoorlie Office.

• What to do: 4WD outback touring, camping, nature study, research areas,nature-based recreation.

Lake Mason, Black Range and Kaluwiri

• Where is it? North of Sandstone. The Lake Mason homestead (phone 99815880) iscentral and is located 56 km north of Sandstone 5km off the Gidgee mine road.

• Travelling time: 40 min from Sandstone to Lake Mason homestead.

• Facilities: Only at the Lake Mason homestead. Buildings for shelter, showers, toilets,BBQ, rain and bore water. Camping fees apply and bookings can be made throughthe CALM Kalgoorlie Office.

• What to do: 4WD touring, camping, history, nature study and research, bird watchingand prospecting.

Bulga and Cashmere Downs, Ida Valley and Mt Forrest

• Where is it? Two remote reserves 90-150 km south of Sandstone off the Sandstone-Menzies Rd.

• Travelling time: Two to three hours from Sandstone or Menzies.

• Facilities: No facilities.

• What to do: 4WD touring and exploring, bush camping, historic sites, nature study.

Wanjarri Nature Reserve

• Where is it? 80 km north of Leinster 15 km east of the main highway, bush track accessonly.

• Travelling time: One and a half hours from Leinster.

• Facilities: Old shearing shed with basic camping facilities, shelter, shower, toilet andBBQ. Bring your own drinking water. Camping fees apply and bookings can be madethrough the CALM Kalgoorlie Office.

• What to do: 4WD touring and exploring, bush camping, historic sites, nature study.

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Sydney Heads Pass at Earaheedy. Photo – IanKealley

A knob-tailed gecko (Nephrurus vertebralis) at LornaGlen.

Wildflowers at Jaudi. Photo – Ian Kealley

G o l d f i e l d sland of surprises8

Take in gold mining ghosttowns on Rowles Lagoon circuit

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOWRowles Lagoon Conservation Park

• Where is it? 73 km north ofCoolgardie along the Bonnie Vale andCarbine Roads or alternatively fromKalgoorlie via Ora Banda.

• Travelling time: One hour fromCoolgardie.

• Facilities: Information shelter, tables,toilets, camping sites, freshwater lake(intermittent depending on rainfall),boat launching site, gazetted water-skiarea, heritage trail.

• What to do: Sightseeing, walking,photography, nature observation(especially bird watching), swimming,water-skiing, canoeing, picnics,camping.

Cave Hill is an excellent camping spot andis one of several large granite rockconservation reserves managed by CALM.

It is also suitable for longer day trips fromKalgoorlie-Boulder, Coolgardie, Kambalda,Widgemooltha or Norseman.

The re s e rve is dominated by a spectacular graniteo u t c rop with a large cave and wave formation onthe western side which gives the rock its name.The rock is an important Aboriginal cultural siteand has a water catchment with four dams thatsupplied the woodlines.

These dams were constructed during thewoodlines timber cutting era and were used as awater source to supply steam-driven engines onthe narrow-gauge woodline railways. The timberwas supplied to Kalgoorlie-Boulder by the manycamps scattered around the area between 1930and 1937.

For those with four-wheel-drive vehicles, atrip along the woodline towards Burra Rockcan be a memorable and historicallyinteresting experience. There are a number ofwoodline camps along this track. Alternativelythe new two-wheel-drive tourist road linkingWidgemooltha and Coolgardie via Cave Hilland Burra Rock is an excellent drive.

The Cave Hill reserve has developed campingareas at the base of the rock, picnic tables,barbecues and toilets. The many activitiesavailable include camping, nature-based study,water-based recreation and exploring themassive granite outcrop. Surroundingwoodlands offer pleasant sites for passiverecreation, picnics, walks and wildlifeobservation.

The granite outcrop is the home to mammals,reptiles and insects, many of which are quiterare, so please respect the environment andkeep vehicles to established roads and tracks.

Cave Hill’s cave and wave formation

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOWCave Hill Conservation Reserve

• Where is it? 50 km south-west of Widgiemooltha, 90 km south of Coolgardie, 60 kmwest of Higginsville off the Coolgardie-Esperance Highway.

• Travelling time: One hour from Kambalda, one and a half hours from Coolgardie, threehours from Coolgardie if you take the 4WD Woodline track from Burra Rock.

• Facilities: Information shelters, tables, barbecues, toilets, camping areas.

• What to do: Sightseeing, walking, photography, nature observation, yabbying, picnics,camping, four-wheel-drive trips along the old woodlines (if conditions are wet remain onformed roads only).

Rowles Lagoon Conservation Park and theadjacent lakes (Clear, Muddy and Carn a g eLakes Nature Reserve) are a popular re c re a t i o ndestination for Goldfields families, visitors andt o u r i s t s .

The freshwater Rowles Lagoon relies on rainfallru n o ff to maintain its depth and when full off e r sexcellent opportunities for water-based re c re a t i o nand wetland studies.

A range of facilities has been developed for bothday users and larger groups wanting extendedcamping weekends. Located in shaded are a sa round the lagoon, CALM has provided campinga reas, barbecues, picnic tables, inform a t i o npanels and toilets. As the area is a conserv a t i o npark, pets are not permitted and vehicles mustremain on defined tracks.

Rowles Lagoon and the surrounding lakes are ab i rd watcher’s paradise. The lakes are culturallyand environmentally significant and included in

A u s t r a l i a ’s register of significant wetlands. Manyspecies of waterfowl visit the area.

The wetlands are an important cultural site forlocal Aboriginal people and the story of the site istold at the interpretation shelter.

Black swans, pink-eared ducks and wood ducksa re commonly found, along with several rarespecies including the freckled duck, Australia’sr a rest waterbird. For dedicated bird watchers, theCALM Kalgoorlie office has available a list ofb i rds re c o rded at Rowles Lagoon and theadjacent lakes.

Activities for visitors include nature basedre c reation, swimming, catching yabbies andboating when the water depth perm i t s .

Rowles Lagoon can also be included in ani n t e resting day circuit visiting the gold miningghost towns of Broad Arro w, Ora Banda andKunanalling, and the Coolgardie town along theGolden Quest Heritage Tr a i l .

Rowles Lagoon and shelter. Photos – Tracy Churchill (left) and Barry Hooper (right)

Cave Hill’s famous cave. Photo – Barry Hooper

G o l d f i e l d sland of surprises 9

Burra Rock Conservation Reserve containsseveral large granite rocks surrounded byregrowth eucalypt woodland and areas ofsandplain.

It also has a historical dam and catchment wallthat supplied water for steam-driven engineson the narrow-gauge ‘woodline’ railwaysbringing timber to Kalgoorlie-Boulder from1921-37.

The regrowth woodland around Burra Rock isthe result of clear felling from 1922-1927 tosupply fuel wood for steam-driven engines,industry and structural timber for the goldmining industry.

There is an air of abandonment about severalold woodline camps that dot the landscapebetween Burra Rock and Cave Hill, nowconnected by a four wheel drive- only trackalong the old woodline or an alternative newtwo wheel drive tourist road further west. It’sas if the cutters had suddenly dropped

everything – tools, tea mugs, drink bottles –and left the still burning ash pits withoutlooking back.

A welcome sight on a hot day is the BurraRock Dam and rock catchment. A short climbto the summit of the rock rewards visitorswith a great view over the regeneratedwoodlands that stretch as far as the eye cansee. Visitors can also undertake otheractivities such as camping, nature study,exploring the rock and water-based recreationaround the dam and rock.

Visitors must not drive off tracks or on therocks, as the fragile granite and otherhistorical features are easily damaged andareas are being rehabilitated. Exfoliatinggranite sheets provide shelter for a number ofdifferent animal species and damage to thesesheets reduces available habitat and can resultin local animal extinctions. Pets are notpermitted in any conservation reserve,including Burra Rock.

Time stands still at Burra RockTHINGS YOU NEED TO KNOWBurra Rock Conservation Reserve

• Where is it? 60 km south ofCoolgardie, past the old Nepean Mineon the Burra Rock Road.

• Travelling time: 45 minutes fromCoolgardie.

• Facilities: Information shelter,tables, barbecues, toilets, historicdam, camping areas.

• What to do: Sightseeing, walking,photography, nature basedrecreation, picnics camping.

The Kalgoorlie Arboretum provides anexcellent window to the Goldfields eucalyptwoodlands.

A wide variety of native flora, walk trails forall ages, picnic tables in a grassed area underthe shade of river red gums and a small damthat attracts water birds are some of thefeatures of the Kalgoorlie Arboretum in theCity of Kalgoorlie-Boulder.

The dam is filled by intercepting run-off fromresidential areas draining into the Arboretum.This run-off is directed through a series of

shallow water harvesting areas and eliminatesthe need to artificially water grassed areas.

The Arboretum, a 26 ha reserve, wasestablished in 1954 by CALM's predecessor,the Forests Department. Three foresters,George Brockway, Bill Brennan and RobertDonovan, sought to test and demonstratenative and exotic tree species suitability forplanting in the semi-arid environment of theGoldfields. Since then, seed from these treespecies has been exported to similar semi-aridcountries around the world.

About 60 eucalyptus species have beenplanted in the last 40 years. Recent plantingsinclude species such as Boree (Melaleucapauperiflora) and regeneration and seeding ofGoldfields understorey species such as saltbushes and eremophilas.

Information about tree species, the Arboretumand Goldfields bioregions is available from theinterpretive panels near the car park. Theextensive interpretation panels weredeveloped in partnership with Placer DomeAsia Pacific which also assisted withunderstorey regeneration, research and trials.

Local trees delight Kalgoorlie Arboretum v i s i t o r s

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOWKalgoorlie Arboretum

• Where is it? Hawkins Street,Kalgoorlie. Adjacent to HammondPark.

• Travelling time: Five minutes fromcentral Kalgoorlie.

• Facilities: Information shelter,tables, disabled toilet, catchmentdam, grassed shady picnic area,arboretum of local and exotic trees,walk trails, bike path, Gribble Creekpathway.

• What to do: Sightseeing, walking,photography, nature observation,picnics, tree identification,environmental education.

A black-footed rock wallaby. Photo – David Pearson

Facilities at the Kalgoorlie Arboretum.Photo – CALM Goldfields

The Burton legless lizard (Lialis burtonis) found throughout the Goldfields.Photo – David Pearson

G o l d f i e l d sland of surprises10

One of the Goldfields’ most spectacular naturalgranite outcrops can be seen at Vi c t o r i aRock Nature Reserve south of Coolgard i e .

If you climb to the summit of Victoria Rock andview the surrounding woodland, you might findit difficult to believe that this area was clear- f e l l e dfor its timber in the 1920s. The woodland nowseen is re g rowth, consisting of salmon gum,gimlet and redwood. Closer to the rock, thicketsof rock sheoak, mallee York gum and graniterock box provide an ideal spot for nature - b a s e dre c reation and camping.

The keen explorer can view the plentiful wildlife,including ornate dragons (small lizards), emus,echidnas and frogs. The abundance ofwildflowers at the base of the rock provides an

excellent food source for the variety of birds inthe area, which include honey eaters, yellow-t h roated miners and rainbow bee-eaters.

Nestled beside the rock are several secludedpicnic and camping sites catering for visitors,complete with barbecues and toilets.

Another interesting stop on the way to Vi c t o r i aRock is Gnarlbine Rock, 23 km south ofC o o l g a rdie. H. M. Lefroy discovered it in 1863and it was named Gnarlbine Rock by C.C. Huntin 1865. The soak at its base was an import a n twater stop for early explorers and became awater supply for Coolgardie. John Hollandincluded the soak in his track linking Bro o m e h i l land Bayley’s Find at Coolgardie in 1893. Thislink became known as the Holland Tr a c k .

Spectacular granite outcrops at Victoria RockTHINGS YOU NEED TO KNOWVictoria Rock Nature Reserve

• Where is it? 43 km south ofCoolgardie on the Victoria Rock Road.

• Travelling time: 30 minutes fromCoolgardie.

• Facilities: Information shelter,barbecues, toilets, camping areas.

• What to do: Sightseeing,walking, photography, nature basedrecreation, picnics, camping.

Nature reserves in the deserts

WA’s southern deserts contain severallarge reserves that are part of the State’sconservation reserve system.

These reserves include the Gibson DesertNature Reserve (1.8 million ha), Great VictoriaDesert Nature Reserve (2.1 million ha), YeoLake Nature Reserve (320,000 ha), PlumridgeLakes Nature Reserve (308,000 ha) and NealeJunction Nature Reserve (723,000 ha).

Plants and animals well adapted to the desertflourish in the different types of terrain andvegetation throughout the desert reserves,from the unique landscape of the NullarborPlain to vast dune-fields interspersed withbreakaway ranges, salt lakes and desertranges, to the tree-lined sandstone gorges andcreeks of the Gibson and Sandy Deserts

There are chenopod shrublands surroundingsalt lakes that once were ancient ‘fossil’ rivers,breakaway outwash areas with low mulgawoodlands and the very beautiful openeucalypt woodlands of marble gum andmallees that prosper in yellow sands of theGreat Victoria Desert.

The Gibson Desert supports a rich bird faunawith more than 124 species having beenrecorded. A number of threatened animalsare also known to occur including the bilby,mulgara and great desert skink. QueenVictoria Spring Nature Reserve has onespecies of declared rare flora, the VictoriaDesert smokebush (Conospermum toddii), aswell as two priority-listed plant species andeight geographically restricted ones. There arealso six known species of threatened faunaincluding the malleefowl, scarlet-chestedparrot and sandhill dunnart.

Aboriginal people from several communities

have cultural ties with lands within theGibson Desert and Great Victoria DesertN a t u re Reserves where native title rightshave been granted. These cultural ties ares t rong and should be respected by visitors.

Some desert re s e rves contain import a n thistorical sites. For example, a plaquecommemorating the 1891 Elder ExploringExpedition can be seen at Queen Vi c t o r i aSpring in the nature re s e rve.

Early explorers such as Giles and Carn e g i enamed many of the mapped features withinthe Gibson Desert Nature Reserve. Allcultural sites re q u i re careful management,p a rticularly with increasing visitor numbers,so please respect and pre s e rve them. Not allsites are readily accessible and appro v a lshould be sought to visit these locations.

T h e re has been a significant increase in thenumber of people travelling to the desertre s e rves in four wheel drive vehicles,including group tours and tag along trips.Outback tracks built by Len Beadell’sG u n b a rrel construction part y – the ‘ConnieSue’, ‘Anne Beadell’ and ‘Gunbarre l ’highways and the recently named DavidC a rnegie Highway – o ffer remote accesst h rough the deserts. Information on thed e s e rt roads is available from CALM.

The Townsend Ridges east of Warburton.Photo – David Pearson

Spectacular rock formations at Victoria Rock, in the Goldfields. Photo – Steve Sadler

G o l d f i e l d sland of surprises11

The Goldfields Woodlands National Parkstraddles the Great Eastern Highway60 km west of Coolgardie, running foranother 40 km beside the road.

It is part of a 152,500 ha conservation reservenetwork that includes Boorabbin NationalPark to the west, Victoria Rock Nature Reserveand a special management area to the southand east.

These reserves add to a linear network ofother conservation reserves 400 km long fromJilbadgi Nature Reserve in the south throughthe Jaurdi Conservation Reserve to theCALM-managed Mt Elvire reserve and MtManning Range Nature Reserve in the north.They form an important part of theconservation estate east of the Wheatbelt.

An additional area of 142,140 ha to the southis proposed to be added to the national parkand a further 10,000 ha to the otherconservation reserves. This will create aconservation reserve network of more than311,000 ha.

The reserves are within the Coolgardiebiogeographic region. They complete thecomprehensive adequate and representative(CAR) network of conservation reserves forthe Boorabbin vegetation system within theCoolgardie bioregion.

The area has significant conservation values. Itincludes a diversity of landforms andvegetation types such as sandplains,freshwater swamps, salt lakes with saltbushand samphire surrounds, uncut and regrowtheucalypt woodlands and granite complexes.The area contains a wide variety of originalstands and regrowth areas of eucalyptsincluding salmon gum, gimlet, ribbon-barkedgum, mallees, red morrel, redwood andwoodline mallee. There also is a range ofother native flora including wattles, banksia,

bottlebrush, hakeas, melaleucas, sheoaks,sandalwood and grasstrees. Many of thesewere the source of bush tucker for Aboriginalpeople who used the area.

The park and associated conservation reservesprovide visitors travelling by road from theeast with their first views of the State'sspectacular spring and summer wildflowerdisplays of the kwongan sandplain heaths.

Fauna surveys for the area, including theneighbouring 26,000 ha Boorabbin NationalPark, have found 17 native mammal species,four frogs species, 52 reptile species and morethan 100 bird species. Mammals include thesouthern ningaui, pygmy possum and severalspecies of dunnart (small nocturnalmarsupials) as well as bats and native rodents.

There are recreation and camping sites withinthe park along the highway at Boondi Rockand south of Coolgardie at Victoria Rock.Passing through the park, with a site atWoolgangie Rock, is the Golden PipelineHeritage Trail. It provides a tourist routeincorporating different biological andhistorical features including distinctive rockcatchments along the historic Goldfieldsrailway and pipeline running parallel to theGreat Eastern Highway.

The famous and historic Holland Track fromBroomehill to Coolgardie crosses the parkfrom Diamond Rock through to ThursdayRock and Victoria Rock to Coolgardie. Thisroute is now a popular outback four-wheel-drive track and will continue to be managedfor this use.

Remnants of the historic Kalgoorlie woodlines,in the eastern part of the reserves, generatemuch interest. These woodlines were narrowgauge railway lines used to haul timber intoKalgoorlie-Boulder for the mines and fuel forindustry. They were developed around 1900following the discovery of gold in Coolgardie

in 1892 and in Kalgoorlie the following yearand operated until the 1960s.

Timber cut from the arid inland forests andwoodlands was also used as fuel in thepumping stations along the Goldfields waterpipeline between Mundaring and Kalgoorlie,completed in 1903. The last of the wood-firedboilers and pumping stations converted todiesel in 1960. By 1965 the Goldfieldswoodlines and timber-fuelled pump stationshad been consigned to history.

Many visitors have a strong interest in the historyof the pipeline, woodlines and historic aspects ofthe access tracks that serviced the Goldfields.The national park incorporates several sitesi n t e r p reting these features and the Aboriginalc u l t u re, history and ecology of the are a .

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOWGoldfields Woodlands National Parkand Conservation Park

• Where is it? 60 km west ofCoolgardie along the Great EasternHighway and south of Coolgardie onthe Victoria Rock Rd. It runs foranother 40 km beside the road.

• Travelling time: One hour fromCoolgardie.

• Facilities: Visitor and camping areasat Victoria Rock and Boondi Rock.Information shelter, tables, toilets,camping sites, freshwater dam atBoondi, heritage trail, Holland Track,picnic sites.

• What to do: Sightseeing, walking,photography, nature observation, birdwatching, swimming, yabbies,picnics, camping, 4WD trips.

Goldfields Woodlands National ParkRegrowth salmon gums in the Goldfields Woodlands National Park. Photo – Steve Sadler

G o l d f i e l d sland of surprises

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