Future developments in the Fibre/ Textile/ Apparel business and the role of Technology Transfer

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School of EngineeringUniversity of Minho

Future developments in the Fibre/ Textile/ Apparel business and the

role of Technology Transfer

Mário de AraújoMário de AraújoSenior ProfessorSenior Professor

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INTRODUCTION

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ChemicalIndustry

Disposal / Recycling

Service Provider

The Man-made Fibre Industry

The Textile Industry

The GarmentIndustry

Non-conventional Textile Processing

Retail

Fiber Thread Fabric FinishedFabric

Garment(Fashion/Function)

Home

Distribution /Retail

TextileServices

PrivateU

se /C

onsumption

Industrial Use/

Production

• Type 1

• ...• Type 2

• Type n

•Hotels•Hospitals•Public

Services

• Transport• Construction• Health Care• Agriculture• Industry

Applications in

The Worldof Textiles and Garments

in addition:- machinery industry (e.g. textile machinery)- supplier for testing equipment; chemical material - software provider; other services and intermediaries

Textile and clothing pipeline

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Technical textiles

Decorative & home textiles

Clothing

23.5%

33%43.5%

Source: Euratex on CIRFS data, 2003

EU: Division of production by the 3 sub-sectors (by volume of fibre)

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Governing Council+ ETP Secretariat

Horizontal Task Groups (Financing, Education, Standards)

Innovation Management

Commodity to Specialty Products

ExpertWorkingGroups

New Textile

ApplicationsExpert

WorkingGroups

Mass Production toCustomisation

ExpertWorkingGroups

EU: Structure of the European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles & Clothing

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ENGINEERING WITH FIBRES & STRUCTURES :

A PRODUCT DESIGN APPROACH

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Main objectives

•Analysing the changes in demand and supply of textile/ fibre based products.

•Proposing an approach to meet demand.

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Point 1

The concept of supply chain and global networking in the textile/ fibre complex includes all activities:

•Designing/ development of new products;

•Production and sourcing activities;

•Marketing activities;

that take place in a Globalised Economy

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Point 2

The Global Market is a Buyers Market.

In a Buyers Market there is excessive supply of goods (overcapacity).

Because selling is the big problem, the power has shifted from the hands of the Industrialists to the hands of the Retailers.

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Point 3

The opportunities for graduates have shifted fromProduction to Product Design/ Development and Marketing.



Point 4

Marketing is the integrating factor:

The marketing concept stresses satisfying consumer needs.

A marketing program considers the 4 P’S:

- Product (design & development,….)- Place (logistics, distribution, selling,…)- Price (competition, costs, value, image,…)- Promotion (branding, communication,…..)

unless all four are integrated there is little chanceof commercial success.



Point 5

Product Design & Development is within Marketing. R&D activities in a successful company are businessled.

Everyone must understand these underlying principles and work within their framework.



The EU is shifting from Resource Based to Knowledge Based & Sustainable Development

Point 6



SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY push(emerging)

MARKET pull(opportunities)

COMPANY develops new products(innovate or die!)

The main driver is INNOVATION



“S” curve: The evolution of Product Performance with Time

a: incremental innovation

b: radical innovation

Small improvements

Huge leaps



“S” curve: The evolution of Product Performance with Time

Ballistic pack with a V50 = 500 m/s

Carbon nanotubes fibres ? (200 g/m2)

Para-aramids HPPE(6000 g/m2) (5000 g/m2)

Needs a new paradigm

Ex: Bullet-resistant vest



GRADUATE HUMAN RESOURCES

SUPPLY (from the universities)

DEMAND (from the market economy)



MAIN STRATEGIES IN THE TEXTILE & CLOTHING SECTOR

(The demand side)



STRATEGIES OF COMPANIES• QUICK RESPONSE – differentiated products,value

added, flexible production and deliveries, fashion products, shelf replenishing …

• GLOBAL SOURCING - design + marketing + production subcontracting, high labour content …

• GLOBAL PRODUCTS – homogeneous products, standardized products, economies of scale, large quantities, hard automation …

• MASS CUSTOMIZATION & PERSONALIZATION – personalized treatment of customers, high value added, very flexible production and deliveries, special products, market niches, luxury products ...



SPECIALTY PRODUCTS • TECHNICAL TEXTILES – fibre reinforced composites,

industrial applications, protective clothing, special products, market niches …

• MULTI-FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES – better functional performance, monitoring of functions, control of functions, special products, sports products, techno-fashion, market niches ...



For each of these strategies & product types I will now attempt to explore some of the key requirements/ competences for successful implementation:

TECHNOLOGICAL MODELS

and the areas where research is required for future developments in the various strategies & product types:

KEY AREAS OF INNOVATION



Design & planning: CAD systems; process simulation; supply chain simulation; MRP II;Materials: all types of textile fibers;Manufacturing technologies: flexible; computer aided; Production management: just-in-time; process control; process integration;Logistics & transportation: just-in-time;Standardization: management of quality/ environment/ health & safety/ social accountability/ information security; standardization of technologies, procedures & documentation for the whole supply chain; labeling; electronic documents; CIT: supply chain integration type B2B2C;Human resources: Textile Eng.; Industrial Eng.; MIS;

QUICK RESPONSETechnological Model



Design & planning: process simulation; supply chain simulation;Manufacturing technologies: flexible; product diversification; zero set up time; Production management: integration of all manufacturing phases (CIM), with sales pulling production from end to beginning ; flow type processes; process control; zero work in process ; zero defects; zero stocks;Logistics & transportation: integration of all partners in the supply chain (CIB); quick two way communications; access on information on processes, orders, and sales for all partners; frequent deliveries/ flow type;RFID.Standardization: reduction of costs of implementation of ISO 9000 and ISO 14000; standardization of terminology, procedures and documentation for the whole chain;CIT: integration of the supply chain type B2B2C;

QUICK RESPONSEKey Areas for Innovation



GLOBAL SOURCING Technological Model

Design & planning : CAD systems; MRP IMaterials (in some cases: CMT): all types of textile fibres;Logistics & transportation : quick and efficient;Standardization: standardization of terminology, procedures and documentation for the whole chain; electronic documents;CIT : integration of partners type B2B;Human resources: Textile Eng.; Industrial Eng.;



Standardization : standardization of terminology, procedures and documentation for the whole chain; electronic documents;CIT : integration of partners type B2B;

GLOBAL SOURCING Key Areas for Innovation



GLOBAL PRODUCTS Technological Model

Design & planning : process simulation; Materials: all types of textile fibres;Manufacturing technologies : rigid; computer aided; Production management : just-in-time; process control; process integration;Logistics & transportation : just-in-time;Standardization : management of quality/ environment/ health & safety/ social accountability/ information security; standardization of technologies, procedures & documentation for the whole supply chain; labeling; electronic documents; standardization of products.CIT : integration of partners type B2B2C;Human resources: Textile Eng.; Industrial Eng.; MIS;



Manufacturing technologies : rigid automation; computer aided; Production management: process control; zero work in process; zero defects; zero stocks;Logistics & transportation : integration of all partners in the supply chain (CIB); quick two way communications; access to information on processes, orders and sales for all partners; frequent deliveries/ flow type;RFID.Standardization: reduction of costs of implementation of ISO 9000 and ISO 14000; standardization of terminology, procedures and documentation for the whole chain; standardization of products.CIT: integration of the supply chain type B2B2C;

GLOBAL PRODUCTS Key Areas for Innovation



Design & planning : CAD systems with product simulation; 3D scanner to take measurements; process simulation; supply chain simulation; MRP II;Materials: all types of textile fibres;Manufacturing technologies : very flexible; computer aided; reduction of the number of manufacturing steps; apparel manufacture at fabric formation stage; 3D knitting, weaving and non woven processing; jacquard systems; digital printing; garment dyeing and finishing; small lot production of fibres and yarns; fancy yarns;Production management : just-in-time; process control; process integration; postponement of some manufacturing steps;Logistics & transportation : just-in-time; personalisation;RFID.Standardization : management of quality/ environment/ health & safety/ social accountability/ information security; standardization of technologies, procedures & documentation for the whole supply chain; labeling; electronic documents; CIT : integration of the supply chain type B2B2C;Human resources: Textile Eng.; Industrial Eng.; MIS;

MASS CUSTOMISATION & PERSONALISATIONTechnological Model



Design & planning : CAD systems with product simulation; process simulation; supply chain simulation; Manufacturing technologies : very flexible; computer aided; reduction of the number of manufacturing steps; apparel manufacture at fabric formation stage; 3D weaving and non woven forming; jacquard systems; garment finishing; small lot production of fibres and yarns; Production management : just-in-time; process control; process integration (CIM); postponement of some manufacturing steps;Logistics & transportation : just-in-time; personalisation; RFID.Standardization : reduction of costs of implementing ISO 9000 e ISO 14000; CIT : integration of the supply chain type B2B2C;

MASS CUSTOMISATION & PERSONALISATIONKey Areas for Innovation



Design & planning: CAD systems; simulation of properties of materials, structures and products; process simulation; MRP II;Materials: essencially high performance fibres; development of special structures; Manufacturing technologies: flexible; computer aided; special;Production management: just-in-time; process control; process integration;Logistics and transportation: just-in-time;Standardization: management of quality/ environment/ health & safety/ social accountability/ information security; standardization of technologies, procedures & documentation for the whole supply chain; labeling; electronic documents; CIT: integration of the various supply chains type B2B2C;Human resources: Textile Eng.; Polymer Eng.; Materials Eng.; other branches of engineering, science, medicine, etc. , according to applications;

TECHNICAL TEXTILESTechnological Model



Design: simulation of properties of materials, structures and products; Materials: high performance fibres (ex.nano-fibres); development of special structures; development of special finishings (ex. nano-particles); Production technologies: production of special structures;Standardization: special testing methods for the new materials;

TECHNICAL TEXTILES Key areas for innovation



Design & planning: CAD systems; simulation of properties of materials, structures and products; simulation of processes; MRP II;Materials: essencially fibres and finishings with special properties: electric conductivity; active materials; micro capsules; nano-fibres; nano-particles; special structures;Manufacturing technologies: flexible; computer aided; special;Production management: just-in-time; process control; integration of processes;Logistics & transportation: just-in-time;Standardization: management of quality/ environment/ health & safety/ social accountability/ information security; standardization of technologies, procedures & documentation for the whole supply chain; labeling; electronic documents; CIT: integration of the various supply chains type B2B2C;Human resources: Textile Eng.; Polymer Eng.; Materials Eng.; other branches of engineering, science, medicine, etc. , according to applications;

MULTIFUNCTIONAL TEXTILESTechnological Model



Design: simulation of properties of materials, structures and products; Materials: essencially fibres and finishings with special properties: electric conductivity; active materials; micro capsules; nano-fibres; nano-particles; special structures;Manufacturing technologies: flexible; computer aided; special;Standardization: special testing methods for the new materials, structures and products;

MULTIFUNCTIONAL TEXTILESKey Areas for Innovation



PROPOSED APPROACH

(The supply side)



Approach

ENGINEERING WITH FIBRES & STRUCTURES: A PRODUCT DESIGN APPROACH



The methodology proposed encourages

a 'product design' orientation

and team work



In traditional textile company focus is in the 'means' rather than the 'ends'.

Different technologies are not properly integrated and there is poor communication and lack of team work across different processing technologies.

In other words the organization is 'technology oriented'.



In the proposed approach the focus is in the 'ends' and these justify the 'means'.

In other words the organization is 'product oriented'.

Different technologies are properly integrated and there is good communication and team work across different processing technologies.



Products are related to consumers and markets and so to different marketing strategies.

They are seen in a business context.

They must sell and generate profits.

Products are used to satisfy customer needs.

They are integrated in the marketing mix with other elements such as price, promotion and distribution.



“The bottom line is Engineering with Fibres & Structures” and wherever fibres are the appropriate material, i.e. the material that creates the competitive advantage, we are there.

The applications are wide and include fashion apparel, building construction, automotive, health and wellbeing, personal protection and so on.



The development of new products follows product design methodologies and could be structured as follows:

1. Define a customer need/ requirement?2. How can this need be met ? Exploratory generation and selection of ideas.3. Develop a specification.4. Develop and test a concept.5. Perform a business analyses.6. Develop the product:

Which kind of product (garment, towel, helmet, hose,…etc.)? DECOMPOSE:Which fabric structure(s) and finishing(s)? Which yarn structure(s) and finishing(s)? Which fibre(s) and finishing(s)?Develop the detailed design;Develop a prototype;Test the prototype;Perform market research and test the market;Adjust the design if necessary.

7. Develop a marketing strategy.



FASHION PRODUCT DESIGN

Fundamental areas to address:

•Visual communication (colour, pattern, style, shape, etc.)

•Tactile communication (handle +)

•Functionalities (properties of finished fibres & structures (2D/ 3D) leading to performance and comfort: strength, stiffness, elastic recovery, toughness, permeability, conductivity, stability, etc.)



Load [N]

Elongation [mm] or Extension [%]

Step 1 Step 2

From the mechanical point of view the fabric behaves like a structure

From the mechanical point of view the fabric can be considered as behaving like a continuous material.

Jamming point or “Critical stretch state”

Typical load-extension characteristic curve for a weft knitted fabric

Related to handle, comfort, etc

Related to strength, rigidity, etc



Design & Simulation

Flexible Manufacture

Testing

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Engineering with fibres & structures: from giga-stresses to nano-strains



Concluding remarks

The current rate of technological change requires a flexible, quick response and often personalised approach to product development and manufacture.

A product design approach to engineering with fibres and structures seems to be fundamental to the success of the integrated supply chain.

This requires a change in mentality of all concerned aiming at working in multidisciplinary teams and meeting market requirements with high performance fibre based products.



Approaches to Industrial Liaison Offices

Mário de AraújoMário de AraújoSenior ProfessorSenior Professor



Knowledge is an extremely valuable asset.

This is why the EU is shifting from Resource Based toKnowledge Based & Sustainable Development.

Fundamental knowledge is normally created in the universities.

The emerging knowledge from exploratory research results must then be exploited for the benefit of society.

Business firms look at this emerging knowledge to improved the performance of existing products & services or to create the next generation of new products & services.

The role of an industrial liaison office is to create a bridge betweenuniversities and industry, so that the transfer of knowledge ismore effective and targeted to address specific needs.

INTRODUCTION



SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY push(emerging)

MARKET pull(opportunities)

COMPANY develops new products(innovate or die!)

The main driver is INNOVATION



TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER

Universities

IndustryIndustrial Liaison Office



There are many approaches to Technology Transfer.

However, the models I have been involved with are of 3 types:

1 – 2C2T: Center for Textile Science & Technology at the University of Minho;

2 – TecMinho: Association of University/ Enterprise for Development;

3 – CITEVE: Technological Center of the Portuguese Textile & Clothing Industries



ROLE OF TECNOLOGY TRANSFER

Facilitate the transfer of knowledge between universities and companies, through:

•Support for product and process development;

•Training;

•Feasibility studies;

•Patent searching;

•Partners searching/ match making;

•Finding funding/ financing opportunities;

•Troubleshooting/ problem solving, etc.



TECMINHO(university led/ independentoffice)Light & cheap to run

No infrastructure

Horizontal

Complementary:

• Commercial

• Match-maker

• Facilitator

• Organizer/Dealing with bureaucracy

2C2T(ministry of science & university ledresearch center)Too much bureaucracy

Ineffective for Tec. Transf.

CITEVE(industry led/ technical centre)Heavy & expensive to run

With large infrastructure

Sectorial

Competitor

Conflict of interests



Research and development players

> 4 years

< 2 years

< 1 yearSCIENCETECHNOLOGY

PRODUCT

Exploratory Research Innovative

Research Development

IndustrialLiaisonOffice

Universities

Industry



CONCLUDING REMARKS

Technology Transfer is fundamental for innovation in a fast movingand very competitive environment.

Research led universities do have the knowledge which is requiredby most innovation led enterprises (especially SME’s).

This knowledge, however, must be adapted/ tailored by ILO to meet particular applications.

So that, enterprises may develop new, innovative and high performance products to enable them to meet their clients requirements in a very competitive and globalized business world.

TecMinho type ILOs are the most effective and cost efficient technology transfer organization that a university can have.

Documents

Future developments in the Fibre/ Textile/ Apparel business and the role of Technology Transfer